Bon Vivant - Slow Travel

Dig Into Italy’s Food Valley

By Katy Spratte Joyce

A culinary trip to Emilia-Romagna is a journey through the region’s past with heritage ingredients, like Parmigiano Reggiano, and classic pasta dishes in the hands of celebrated chefs

It’s just past 9 am in the northern Italian province of Parma. I’m touring a cheese factory (Parmigiano Reggiano, naturally) that still does everything by hand, like in the old days. After watching the delicate cheese “dance,” when two cheesemakers rhythmically flip and strain the curd in linen, I head up to the aging room in a cramped elevator. “It’s the elevator to cheese heaven,” laughs my tour guide. The doors open, and as my eyes adjust to the dim light, I notice the smell. It’s divine.

Unsurprisingly, there’s no shortage of options for a culinary-focused trip in a country known worldwide for its delectable food traditions. After all, Italy has 20 distinct regions, with heavy hitters like Tuscany (and its capital, Florence) and Lazio (Rome’s home) earning much of the international tourist traffic. But for true culinary enthusiasts, there’s no better spot to visit in “Bel Paese,” meaning the beautiful country, than the region of Emilia-Romagna.

VINEYARDS IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA

© ANGELO NASTRI NACCHIO

Known as the food valley of Italy, Emilia-Romagna is situated in the north-central reaches of the country. While every town offers something special, I choose to focus on three main foodie destinations: Parma, Modena and Bologna.

TRADITIONAL FOOD MARKET IN BOLOGNA

The citizens of Emilia-Romagna take their food seriously. They say, “If you are truly Bolognese, you eat tortellini in brodo [broth] on the 15th of August.” According to Barbara Zaccagni, owner of Il Salotto di Penelope, a premier cooking school in Bologna: “That means the tradition is so strong that you eat something really hot even if it is too hot out. The food is so important in our region that Bologna was the first in Italy to deposit its traditional recipes at the Accademia Italiana della Cucina [an institution established to preserve the country’s food traditions] almost 50 years ago.”

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO CHEESE AGING

The rolling hills and rich soil of Parma remind me of my homeland in the U.S. Midwest, also renowned for cheesemaking. But nothing can quite compete with the socalled “king of cheese,” Parmigiano Reggiano, which I see, taste and smell at the Giansanti Di Muzio factory. On the tour, I learn about the process, from cow to mould, and end with a tasting of cheeses aged 12 months, 24 months and 30 months. First on their own, then paired with standard area accompaniments like raw honey and pear vinegar, this cheese royalty earns its crown.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR PRODUCTION IN MODENA

© FABIO DUMA

Another ​Denominazione di Origine Protetta (Protected Designation of Origin or PDO) product of Emilia-Romagna is found just down the road. During a three-hour experience and al fresco lunch at Acetaia Gambigliani Zoccoli, I delight in learning about the traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena. Various members of the family-run business pop in and out as the day unfolds, adding colourful commentary and warm Italian hospitality to the otherwise educational presentation. After an explanation of the process, including a visit to the attic aging space, my travel companion and I settle into the courtyard for a feast of Italian proportions. Each bite is designed to perfectly pair with either the 12- year- or 25-year-aged vinegar, so the meal serves as a tasting, too. Standout morsels include homemade ricotta cake, prosciutto and risotto, all made from regional recipes.

PROSCIUTTO, AN ESSENTIAL COMPONENT OF A MULTITUDE OF TRADITIONAL RECIPES

© GIORGIO SALVATORI

For a refined dining expression of Emilia-Romagna, visitors should consider a meal at star chef Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, a three Michelin-star eatery commonly listed among the world’s best. Reservations book out months in advance, however, so one of Bottura’s three other restaurants in the area may offer a reliable stand-in.

As I stroll through the picturesque centre of Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna, I’m struck by the city’s iconic, UNESCO-recognized porticoes. Known as one of the bestpreserved medieval centres in the world, Bologna is an elite destination on its own. To get hands-on with its famous food reputation, I turn to Il Salotto di Penelope cooking school.

The owner can customize classes based on students’ needs, so I choose to learn about the region’s trio of star pastas: tortelloni, ravioli (also called tortelli) and tagliatelle. Three hours fly by as the decadent smell of ragù Bolognese and robust Sangiovese wine permeates the air. Cheery conversation flows and I find myself transfixed by the rhythmic rolling of freshly made pasta dough on the flourdusted wooden island. When all is said and done, I am satiated by both a delicious meal and the knowledge of the deeply rooted food traditions that make this area shine.

A culinary tour is another excellent way to grasp the true majesty of Emilia-Romagna’s bounty, with local tour operators offering an overview of the high notes and history, from mortadella to the fresh market. This mix of historical context with a food lens helps illustrate all that Bologna has to offer.

In my quest for an Italian getaway with a culinary focus, Emilia-Romagna more than delivers on all fronts. The foods of Parma, Modena and Bologna are sure to satisfy and delight travellers.