Extraordinary Experiences - Peru's Cutest Hiking Guides

One writer explores the dramatic scenery of the Ausangate Mountain with llamas as companions and falls for their charms

By Sarah Sekula

I lock eyes with Labrayani, a 140-kilogram llama on the trail behind me. He tilts his head and flicks his ears back. While he pauses, I get a good look at those long lashes, awkward underbite and knobby knees.

It’s impossible not to crack a smile.

LLAMAS HIKING GUIDE, AUSANGATE MOUNTAIN

He’s my new hiking companion for my trip to the Ausangate Mountain of Peru and he happens to be the head honcho of the llama posse. For that reason alone, he gets to sport the most decorations. We’re talking hot pink ear tassels, a pom-pom necklace and a decorative saddle. He’s a camelid with style.

We’re at 4,267 metres on day one of a two-day trek. My buddies amount to one guide, two herders, one horse and five llamas. Together we are, quite literally, following the same paths the Incas took thousands of years ago. It’s all thanks to an extensive system of ancient trails created by llama herders.

For avid hikers, it’s a dreamy mishmash of terrain. One that is full of impressive peaks, impossibly blue lakes and pasture after pasture of llamas and alpacas. Our route through the Vilcanota range is one of the highest treks in Peru. The journey, however, will be made a bit easier with llamas as our sherpas.

For thousands of years, these trusty animals have made life possible in the Andes by carrying goods from village to village. Fast forward to today and the llamas are also used for trips like mine, where hikers travel from one lodge to the next.

We begin our foray into the wilderness at a steady pace. Gradually, we ascend through a valley, home to some of the highest potato crops in the world. Before long, we meet a herd of about 100 alpacas. Several young ones sport new hairdos. Fluffy wool on the tops of their heads sticks straight up while the wool on their bodies is trimmed close – all making their periscope necks appear comical.

I’m beside myself with delight. I glance over my shoulder and Labrayani is still there, grinning peacefully. It’s already apparent that this will be no ordinary hiking trip.

Besides getting schooled on the landscape and culture, I’m learning loads about llamas. They are low maintenance, dependable and calm for the most part. They leap over streams surprisingly well, are natural grazers – so there’s no need to bring food along – and they can carry up to one-third of their body weight. Not to mention their funny noises include snorts, sneezes, belches and even high-pitched squeals when predators are near. It’s a treat getting to know their personalities.

“Some of them are kind of cranky, and some of them are actually really social,” says Bruno Lopez, my guide. “I’ve seen a few llamas put their necks on top of people’s heads when they are taking photos.”

He knows every inch of this area and leads us from one stunning valley to the next. We pass uplifted granitic cliffs, tumbling streams and limestone forests. Millions of years of geologic history. “Everyone has their favourite day,” says Lopez. “It’s very peaceful, very far from civilization, far from the cities.”

To me, it’s an added bonus to go an entire day and see only a few people. It means I’m fully immersed in the dramatic topography around me. The scenery, he explains, was created by several tectonic forces and the presence of minerals is very high. Silver, copper and iron are scattered as far as the eye can see. This explains why several mountains have a beautiful red hue and why I keep spotting rocks that any geologist would envy.

TREKKING IN VINICUNCA

© PROMPERU

At sunset, a steep march up a rocky hillside brings us to the best views yet. The jumble of snowy peaks to the left is known as Nevado del Inca. To the right, neon-green grass and moss-covered rocks dot the Ausangate mountainside. Straight ahead, I see the vivid hues of the Red Valley. The icing on the cake is a bright blue lagoon where llamas are grazing.

We arrive at our eco-lodge, a two-storey abode where we are greeted with a warm meal that could rival the best restaurants in Cusco and coca tea to ward off altitude sickness.

As we warm up by the fire, Lopez tells me that the lodgekeeper, Mario, used to make three-week treks from this area to the Amazon and back for trading on a regular basis. With his family in tow, no less.

MARIO, THE LODGEKEEPER

© ANDEAN LODGES

It reminds me how hardy the local Quechuan people are. I’m utterly fascinated by how they’ve adapted to this extreme environment. They tell me I might be able to adjust to this altitude if I spent a year here. But I have my doubts.

We chat about tomorrow’s adventures that will culminate at Rainbow Mountain, a 5,181-metre-high beauty. Created by mineral deposits, its psychedelic bands of turquoise, lavender, red-violet and gold are quite a spectacle.

AT THE TOP OF THE RAINBOW MOUNTAIN

© ANDEAN LODGES

After a hearty Andean breakfast, we load our gear and resume our hike, donning rain jackets this time. Hail is beginning to fall through the thick layer of fog, and within 20 minutes, snowflakes appear. Instantly, the sweeping landscape looks even more magical.

After a few hours of trekking, I point out what looks like lines of large white polka dots crisscrossing the side of a red mountain in the distance. Lopez explains that it is snow that has filled in the llama footprints.

Every now and then, the llamas wander off the trail and up the mountainside. Surefooted and graceful, they make it look easy. With their soft padded feet, they don’t have much impact on the ecosystem. Each time this happens, one of the llama herders nimbly sprints after them and coaxes them back into the lineup.

It’s no wonder these types of treks have been extremely popular. Many people, myself included, are obsessed with llamas. It’s not just us, though. Travellers come not only from Canada and the U.S. but also from Europe to spend time hiking with llamas. To know that they are simultaneously assisting this isolated community is even better. Many local companies work hard to preserve the culture, traditions and ancestral ways of transportation and to make sure the llama herders get work.

And the fact that the fluffy porters are so darn cute is just an added bonus.