Solo Travel - Camel Trekking Through the Sahara

Despite self-doubts, a writer makes a dream come true and learns to live up to her true potential by exploring bravely

By Iuliana Marchian

The Jeep leaves the asphalt road from Zagora to Foum Zguid and turns left on a dirt track running through arid reddish scenery. Giant black boulders, small bushes and an endless stony terrain surround us. The camels and their caretaker, Lahseen, wait for us in the shade of the only acacia tree in the area. This is the starting point of our camel trek through the Moroccan part of the Sahara Desert.

I have always been passionate about reading the books of great explorers and visualize that I’m one of them. So, I eagerly searched to join a four-day camel trek during my trip to Morocco. But I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to make it to the end.

“You’re crazy!” friends told me. “It will be so hot!” others cautioned me. “Riding camels is painful!” they added. “Why would you do that!?”

I didn’t have the answer. I thought it was a bit crazy, too, but something in me was more powerful than the doubts, fears and lack of self-trust. At least I had to try doing this trip.

“We must cross the Jbel Bani mountains,” says our guide, Mohammed. “From there,” as he points up to a pass, “you can see the desert.”

The hike up to Oum Laachar pass is steep and we have to squeeze on a narrow footpath snaking among sharp boulders. I move slowly but steadily uphill. It is hot, indeed. I drink plenty of water and ride a camel down. While we were immersing in its dimensionless immensity, I saw the desert spanning in front of me. We descended for half an hour to a well where we set up our camp at dusk. In the evening, we all gathered inside the big tent and drank Moroccan mint tea. Then, we had a traditional tajine cooked with delicious lamb meat preserved in brine.

While we were immersing in its dimensionless immensity, I saw the desert spanning in front of me. We descended for half an hour to a well where we set up our camp at dusk. In the evening, we all gathered inside the big tent and drank Moroccan mint tea.

TEA IN THE DESERT

On the second day, we start to walk early in the morning to avoid the heat. Unfortunately, we can ride the camels only for a while. When we reach the uneven terrain of the Ouad Mhasser Valley, we have to get off the camels as the sway is too dangerous.

DESERT CAMP

I feel drained when we arrive at the Afrokh nomads’ camp at the end of the valley. From there, we have to walk a few more kilometres until we finally find an acacia tree where we can cook lunch in the shade. Then, we hike until late in the afternoon before arriving at the foot of Erg Chigaga, the highest dune in Morocco at 400 metres. Mohammed and Lahseen set up the camp among the dunes, while I fall asleep admiring the big dune.

AN ACACIA TREE, KNOWN AS THE TREE THAT SURVIVES THE DESERT

In the morning, Mohammed wakes me up at five o’clock. He’s very determined and firm: “If you want to go on top of the dune, we must go now. Later is too hot!” I have never been a morning person. But I am in the desert and have to listen to my guide.

We start to climb up to the top of Erg Chigaga. It’s the first time I’m climbing a dune. We follow the ridge of the dune where the sand should have been harder. However, we still sink deeply into the soft sand. One step forward, two steps back. My trekking boots are full of sand.

Mohammed holds my hand and pulls me up whenever I get too deep into the sand. The more we climb, the better the view. It is promising, but difficult to advance a few metres. Finally, after half an hour of fighting with the slippery sand, we make it to the top.

ON TOP OF ERG CHIGAGA

Here on Morocco’s highest dune, I stare out at the countless rippling dunes spanning endlessly around us. Wherever I look, there are only sand waves covering the earth like a light brown velvet. It seems unreal, yet this is the place I have been craving to visit for so long.

My dream has come true. Standing with the entire desert at my feet is a life-changing moment. I pushed myself to reach the top of Erg Chigaga and proved I could do it despite what others had told me, despite my fears, my less-than-perfect physical condition and my doubts of what I believed I could accomplish. At that moment, I realize doubts and fears live just in our heads. We’re the ones telling ourselves what we can or cannot do. I’m the living proof of what I’m capable of, and I know, after achieving this, I can make it to the end of the trek.

From Erg Chigaga to M’Hamid, the nearest settlement, we have two more days of walking through the desert. The harsh conditions don’t change after coming down from Erg Chigaga. We have another full day of riding the camels on flat terrain until sunset, but I’m too excited and don’t notice the heat from the blazing sun. I have grown accustomed to it.

In the evening, we reach the group of dunes called Bogarne and camp there. Sleeping in a tent has never been so comfortable and restful. And washing myself with water poured from a plastic bottle is no longer something unusual.

On the last day, it’s even hotter as we head south, but it doesn’t matter anymore. We continue on. We enter a mild sand storm, but I protect my face with a shawl and move on instinctively. When we finally reach M’Hamid El Ghizlane, I feel sad the experience is over. I would have been content to continue.

Recalling my memories now, I understand how I was able to connect to my true potential during the moments of excitement and bliss with the whole desert at my feet. My inner strength taught me I’m the one creating my own reality from the inside out. Even though I second-guessed myself, my passion for exploring helped push me forward into the desert and I never looked back.

Our Experts Suggest

12-DAY MOROCCO EXCLUSIVE ITINERARY

Timeless, storied, luxurious, authentic, mythical – words are not enough to describe the history-rich splendours of Morocco. On this once-in-a-lifetime journey, you’ll trek amidst the rugged beauty of the High Atlas Mountains, venture out on a 4x4 vehicle to the dunes of Erg Chebbi, ride a camel to admire a memorable sunrise over the Sahara and peruse the mesmerizing souks of the Red City of Marrakesh, all with a knowledgeable private guide at your side. Plus, you’ll explore some of the country’s wonderful UNESCO-listed sites, like the fortified village of Aït Benhaddou and Fes el Bali, the best-preserved medina in the Arab world.

And throughout your itinerary, you’ll get to experience the warm, traditional Moroccan hospitality while staying at high-end accommodations, from the most modern like the Four Seasons Hotel Casablanca to the most authentic like the Riad Fès, a magnificent traditional courtyard property – and of course, a luxurious desert camp among the towering dunes.

And the best part is that your itinerary is fully customizable, so that it suits your interests and every facet of your dream comes true. Contact your travel advisor to start planning your trip to Morocco.