Seeing Hawaii by Sea

By Leslie A. Westbrook

A former resident of the Big Island returns to experience the state’s culture, history and natural beauty in a new way – on a cruise

I thought I knew the Hawaiian Islands well, having visited many times over the decades and lived on the Big Island of Hawaii for a short time, which actually felt like a long time (in a good way). Hawaii is like that – a relaxed idyll where time seems to slow down.

Upon my arrival there, I love the blast of warm tropical air and the fragrance of sweet plumeria in the air. Then there’s the local food – papaya, fresh fish, coconuts and more, plus relaxing, languid music and Hawaii’s fascinating history and customs. These are all coupled with the ever-present spirit of aloha making visitors feel welcome. Most of all, I revere the landscapes of Hawaii – rugged volcanic lava fields, lush tropical forests and crystalline waters ideal for swimming, surfing, kayaking and snorkelling.

SAFARI EXPLORER IN HAWAII

© UNCRUISE ADVENTURES

The idea of a cruise through the islands caught my fancy, as I’d never really experienced them by sea. So, I booked an UnCruise Adventures cruise for November, when the temperatures are perfect and balmy and the numbers of tourists are lower.

There were so many highlights during my wonderful cruise, from a night dive with amazing manta rays to an authentic Hawaiian pa‘ina (feast) – quite different from the typical touristy luau. While luaus created for the tourist market offer huge spreads of food, hula dancers and loud drumming, our pa‘ina is a homegrown, heart-warming potluck with food prepared by the islanders and simple music performed on ukulele. Some of us join in with handmade percussion instruments and become part of the party.

HAWAIIAN WOMAN PLAYING UKULELE

I realize I have made the right choice booking with this cruise line when my travel companion and I land on Molokai, a less visited, less touristy island, for a welcome gathering. We soon learn that most of our fellow passengers are repeat guests who have sailed with UnCruise on their small ships before to destinations like Mexico, Central America and Alaska. It’s a good sign. Our cozy travel group of 22 will get to know one another well as we island hop.

MAUI, ALSO KNOWN AS “THE VALLEY ISLE”

The itinerary for our seven-day cruise begins on tiny Molokai (famous for Father Damien and the leper colony he oversaw). Then, it moves to Lanai, Maui and, finally, the largest of the islands, Hawaii (a.k.a. the Big Island), known for its geographical diversity, from pristine beaches to lava flows and the snow-capped Mauna Kea.

CULTURAL IMMERSIONS IN HALAWA VALLEY, ON MOLOKAI

© UNCRUISE ADVENTURES

Cultural immersions on Molokai make us feel like locals with an evening pa‘ina and Hawaiian jam session, hanging out with a real Kahuna (a Hawaiian shaman) for a lesson in pounding poi (a sacred food made from taro root) and cloud-gazing in magnificent gardens.

Every day at sea is different, but an interesting excursion or a dip in the ocean is usually included, whether you choose to jump off the ship and do a high dive or gently lower yourself down the ladder into a kayak or pontoon. While onboard, humpback, Baird’s beaked and pilot whales are spotted.

SWIMMING WITH MALA TURTLES

© UNCRUISE ADVENTURES

One of my favourite island activities on this cruise was swimming with the honu (turtles). I love the soothing, magical encounters with the friendly sea turtles who accompany me. Back on the ship, refreshing tropical drinks, like a mimosa made with cava and lilikoi juice, await us, much appreciated after peeling off our wetsuits. With such an active itinerary, I also look forward to the hearty meals – taro flour pancakes with coconut syrup topped with mangos and macadamia nuts, or a Hawaiian-style breakfast with eggs and SPAM (a staple well loved by locals). Entrées feature fresh Hawaiian fish, like ono, and are accompanied by desserts like a coffee semifreddo with salted chocolate slivers.

ENJOY A TROPICAL DRINK MADE WITH LILIKOI JUICE

© UNCRUISE ADVENTURES

My time exploring the Hawaiian Islands by sea helped expand my understanding of this isolated archipelago. I got to experience it in new ways. Even though I had lived on the Big Island, I had missed out on an activity that became one of the highlights of the cruise.

On the last night, we do a night dive off the coast to encounter with giant manta rays, some as wide as almost 9 metres. A lecture onboard prepares us for what to do and what to expect. We don our wetsuits one last time, jump into the ocean and form a circle, holding hands. Our guides use underwater lanterns to lure the rays to the surface. I nearly jump out of my skin as the first of several of these winged creatures rises from the depths and gently brushes against me. It’s certainly one of the most unusual experiences of my life.

NIGHT DIVE ENCOUNTER WITH MANTA RAYS