Adventure - Kayaking in the Desert

Paddling the waterways of an unexpected oasis where abundant plant life, like the famous saguaro cactus, thrives

By Fiona Tapp

When I arrived in Scottsdale, I expected to find towering saguaro cacti, parched landscapes and red rock formations. What I wasn’t counting on were all the opportunities available to see the Sonoran Desert from the water. Arizona remains an incredibly popular U.S. destination, welcoming more than a million Canadians every year who come to escape winter, enjoy its spas, play golf and shop.

But as Old Town Scottsdale is within just a 60-minute drive of eight lakes and rivers, it’s worth trying a range of watersports in the desert, including kayaking.

These waterways may seem like an unexpected oasis in the middle of an inhospitable environment, but this region is a subtropical desert and receives rainfall bi-seasonally in the winter and in July and August. This creates a huge biodiversity of different plants and animals, which require that reliable rainwater and the waterways they supply to thrive, including the Sonoran Desert’s most famous cacti.

© REI CO-OP EXPERIENCES

If one plant could represent the American Southwest, it would be the giant saguaros. These magnificent and iconic plants can grow as tall as 23 metres and live for over 175 years. They are so significant to the region that the Indigenous Tohono O’Odham people believe they are their ancestors and treat them as respected members of the tribe. In these communities, a new year is marked by the harvest of the saguaro fruit, used to make a sweet syrup for special ceremonies.

A DOUBLE-CRESTED SAGUARO

© AN PHAM FOR E © LAURA DOYLE/ SAGUARO LAKE GUEST RANCH XPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE

I can see saguaro cacti all over the region but somehow, I find them more imposing and impressive viewed from the water, as I paddle below them. They dot the cliff sides in vast numbers along the 35 kilometres of Saguaro Lake’s shoreline. From my kayak, I spot them among rocky flatlands, perched on canyon walls, and nestled in desert shrubland. I paddle silently looking out for local wildlife, including quails, lizards, or even bighorn sheep. Before scanning the endless, cloudless skies above as I turn my gaze to the mountains in hopes of seeing a bald eagle or a hawk gliding overhead.

The Saguaro Lake is located within the Tonto National Forest and was created by the Stewart Mountain Dam. Just 56 kilometres northeast of Old Town Scottsdale, I leave the city behind and, in less than 45 minutes, I am paddling on the still lake. The gentle waters offer me a safe and serene day of kayaking, suitable for beginners and families alike.

A fellow kayaker passes me and points into the distance letting me know there is a cove ahead which, depending on water levels, has a little beach perfect for a picnic lunch. The lake is very popular with power boaters, which can cause quite the wake and shakes my kayak. My English skin burns very easily so I make sure to reapply sunscreen regularly and wear a wide-brimmed hat. The desert sun can be relentless. I was very glad I started early to avoid the crowds and escape the heat.

VIEW OF THE BULLDOG CLIFFS FROM SAGUARO LAKE GUEST RANCH

© LAURA DOYLE/ SAGUARO LAKE GUEST RANCH

Although it’s possible to bring your own kayak and PFD (personal flotation device), I took the more convenient option and rented mine from Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch. One of its vehicles dropped me and the gear off right at the water’s edge and picked me up after my paddle. Next time, I’d like to try out another route, launching right from the ranch and paddling along the Salt River instead, which is bordered by tall, dramatic cliffs and is home to a band of wild horses that roam the banks. This option offers a choice of a bypass route or the modest thrill of some class-one rapids, which I’m keen to explore.

WILD HORSES IN THE VERDE RIVER

© REI CO-OP EXPERIENCES

I notice there is also a gentler option to explore these waterways, during a 90-minute guided lake tour onboard a double-decker paddleboat, named the Desert Belle, which has been offering tours since 1964.

THE DESERT BELLE NAVIGATING THE WATERWAYS

© DESERT BELLE TOUR BOAT

Also included with my rental fee to Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch is the park pass fee ($8 USD) to access the Tonto National Forest. The park doesn’t have a garbage pick-up service, so I made sure to follow “leave no trace” practices and took everything with me.

Before I left, I was planning my next trip to continue touring the desert waterways by visiting other rivers and lakes in the area, including Verde River, Bartlett Lake, Lake Pleasant, Apache Lake, Roosevelt Lake and Canyon Lake, located within the Superstition Wilderness Area.

Whether I kayak, stand-up paddle board, boat or fish, I’ll be scanning around the shoreline to spot those beautiful saguaro cacti that make this region so special.