The Caribbean's Nature Island

By Katy Spratte Joyce

Learn why the island nation of Dominica should be on every traveller’s radar

The iconic main theme from Jurassic Park floats through my head as the plane glides nearer to Douglas-Charles Airport in Marigot, Dominica. Buh-nuh nuh-nuh-nuh. Buh-nuh nuh-nuh-nuh. I almost whistle as the densely green and mountainous slopes of “the nature island” of the Caribbean welcome me into their lush fold for the first time. Dominica is clearly a special place.

Laura Hamm, co-owner of a responsible travel company that leads small group tours to the island, agrees. “Lesser known than its ‘sun, sand and sea’ counterparts in the Caribbean, and often confused with the Dominican Republic over 1,000 miles away, the island of Dominica is an off-the-beaten-path treasure trove of vibrant nature on par with the most untouched and Jurassic-looking islands on the planet,” she says.

Somehow, Dominica has stayed off the radar of many travellers. This is partially because the vast majority of international visitors – more than 200,000 annually – access the island via cruise ships to explore Roseau, the colourful capital. However, after 10 beautiful days on the island, I suggest a longer stay to experience more of it for yourself.

SCOTT'S HEAD

© CHAD AMBO

From the infinity pool at Jungle Bay, an upscale resort near Soufriere, I see Scott’s Head, the famed teardrop-shaped southern tip of the island. Dominica is impressive on many fronts, but none more so than for its natural wonders, like this epic dive spot, part of ​Soufriere-Scott’s Head Marine Reserve. Scuba divers will delight in the dramatic reefs off this volcanic isle, though I prefer to snorkel. And snorkel I do, at the aptly named Champagne Beach, where teeny bubbles, a hint of local seismic activity, emerge from the soft sand beneath these warm Caribbean waters. You can experience the healing properties of hot springs at Ti Kwen Glo Cho by submerging yourself in therapeutic sulphur water.

TI KWEN GLO CHO, A NATURAL SULPHUR SPA

© CHAD AMBO

Another unique Dominica feature, also a volcanic remnant, is Boiling Lake, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site Morne Trois Pitons National Park. The second-largest boiling lake in the world, it’s only accessible by a 12.8-kilometre hike to the island’s rugged interior. On this trip, my hiking is a touch more relaxing and is limited to a gorgeous coastal walk near Calibishie, on the red rocks of the northern coast. According to my jovial guide, Dominica stands supreme in terms of hiking in the region, boasting its longest continuous trail, the 185-kilometre Waitukubuli National Trail. The trail is broken into 14 segments, which volunteers help maintain and clear even as the jungle battles to reclaim its advantage.

MORNE TROIS PITONS NATIONAL PARK

Dominica also earns points among wildlife watchers, as it’s the only nation on earth with a year-round sperm whale population. Sightings of these behemoth beauties are most common from November to March, so my December trip is well-timed for a whale-watching excursion. We set out with a local crew on a boat from Roseau, and within an hour, the striking silhouette of a baby sperm whale makes its dramatic debut. Spotting a handful of adult whales throughout the afternoon is an enchanting activity for our group.

SPERM WHALE

Back at Jungle Bay, I breathe deeply and inhale the herbaceous aroma of my hand-picked custom tea blend. Crafted from medicinal plants abundantly growing on the 22-hectare property, the warm drink contains guava leaves, moringa, lemon sage and hibiscus petals. I’m here for a week-long yoga retreat, and one of the optional activities is a garden tour with a local healer. Learning about the power of plants as medicine expertly encapsulates the potential for wellness travel on this lush and beautiful island.

YOGA RETREAT AT JUNGLE BAY

© JUNGLE BAY

I’m already planning my next sojourn to multifaceted Dominica. With its abundant resources and exciting culture, the nature island of the Caribbean is poised to become more than just a port of call.