My first document

TEXTILES

Emma Roch

Winter 2023

M A G A Z I N E

WHAT ARE WE MADE OF? A LOOK INTO THE CATEGORIES OF FIBERS

THE

FABRIC FILE

TABLE OF CONTENTS: THE PILE UP

MAN MADE FIBERS

NATURAL FIBERS

SUSTAINABLE FABRICS AND COMPANIES TRENDS OF SUSTAINABILITY

EXAMPLES SWATCHES

THE PILE UP

WHAT AND WHY IS DEAD STOCK? The "trend" toward dead stock has reached an all-time high. With high purchases of clothing from brands internationally, the production, shipping, and handling of these products are severely damaging the industry's value and hurting the environment. As fashion continues to rule the current generation and have an impact on so many lives, the issue of having your goods immediately delivered is evidently hurting rather than helping.

Some brands are beginning to purchase deadstock fabric and use all of its scraps to create new woven pieces, thereby promoting the upcycling process and secondhand love.

Vetements, Missoni, Viktor & Rolf, Tadrissi, and Dust of Gods are some of the many fashion labels that have taken charge of the deadstock outburst.

In past collections, they have repurposed previous looks and garments to create new pieces, enhancing their overall value to the brand.

WHAT HAS COME TO?

MAN MADE FIBERS

Polyester A synthetic woven material made from the polymerization of petroleum-derived ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid to produce polyethylene terephthalate. It is a durable fiber that stays in shape and will not pill easily. It is liquid-resistant, meaning that the fabric will wick away moisture. The different forms of weaving a polyester fabric will affect its texture.

Polyester is a relatively inexpensive material to produce and can be found in outdoor apparel, bags and backpacks, and home furnishings.

Sachin & Babi - $285

Nylon

The most environmentally hazardous textile is a plastic derived from crude oil within the family of materials called polyamides. Being created by reacting carbon-based chemicals found in coal and petroleum under high pressure and heat. No form of nylon is biodegradable.

Nylon creates nitrous oxide, a very energy-draining process that harms the production of the garments. Nylon is found in knits, swimwear, and activewear.

Bottega Veneta - $1850

Acrylic It is made up of synthetic polyacrylonitrile polymer and is a fossil fuel-based fiber. Several environmental factors lead to disastrous effects within the energy sector. It is the least breathable form of textile and more prone to pilling than any other fabric. The washing process of acrylic fibers is specifically designed to not harm the original color state of the garment. commonly found in sweaters, hoodies, boot linings, gloves, athletic wear, and blankets.

Free People - $128

Spandex The elasticity of this popularly woven synthetic fabric is well known. Scientifically composed of polyether-polyurea copolymer fabrics with an array of production processes The extensive process of producing the fabric through washing, stretching, and drying Spandex is entirely made from chemicals that are synthesized in lab settings rather than environmental factors, which causes health issues in factories with workers during production. Most commonly found in athletic wear are stretch pants, yoga pants, skinny jeans, underwear, bras, and socks.

Kim Shui - $174

Rayon

Rayon fibers are cellulosic fibers made from cellulose, often derived from wood pulp. Although some of these fibers are eco-friendly, others may be harmful to the environment and our health. Large fashion brands use relatively cheap manmade materials to produce low-cost and low-quality clothing, and rayon is a key material. Rayon is a cheap and highly polluting material that can be found in dresses, blouses, and outerwear.

Good American - $89

Lyocell

Known to be environmentally friendlier, lyocell is very soft and anti-bacterial. It is an alternate for cotton or silk. It is nearly identical to rayon production, but unlike rayon, it uses direct solvents. In garments, it is more common to see the fabric mixed with other types of fibers like cotton or polyester. Lyocell is often used for activewear, clothing for sensitive skin, and home textiles such as bedding.

Athleta - $89

Synthetic Rubbers

Rubber is derived from energy consumption, the use of fossil raw materials, air and water pollution, and waste products. The process of making synthetic rubber is through the mixing of chemicals; there are not enough resources to produce a continuous quantity of natural rubber, so synthetic rubber is made. The most well-known rubbers are neoprene and latex, whose waterproof properties make them excellent materials for different uses. Wetsuits, raincoats, coats, and sneaker soles are the most common places to find it.

Steve Madden - $49

NATURAL FIBERS

Cotton It is derived from the fibers surrounding the seeds of cotton plants, which emerge in a round, fluffy formation once the seeds are mature. This material has strong breathability, lightness, and softness, but also strong heat retention. The production of this fiber depends on the harvesting of the plant and the machines that care for it. The organic farming processes do not involve any artificial pesticides or fertilizers, which reduces the environmental impact of the production.

Cotton can be found in most fashion apparel and garments in daily life.

SeamsFriendly - $57

Linen This is a flax-based textile, perfect for humid and hot climates. Cotton, on the other hand, requires more time and labor to produce. The harvesting portion and meticulous separation process all contribute to the growth of the fabric. Flax is much faster and more efficient than other fiber stems and is environmentally friendly. The main concern with linen is the release of toxic chemicals during the production process. Linen can be found in household items.

Reformation - $90

Silk This is the strongest textile in the world, made from natural processes. Its softness and strength are what make it so desirable. The fiber is a rare and slow process made from certain types of insect larvae secreted to make cocoons. When harvesting silk, it is vital for it to remain protected. It is not damaging to the environment, and transporting the silk between countries may be the only threat it holds to the environment. Silk products can mostly be seen in scarves, shirts, blouses, and evening wear.

Reformation - $123

Wool Wool is one of the most durable fibers, made from the hairs of various animals and spun into fabric. This woven textile has several insulation properties, which create a bulky texture. As a natural fiber, there are no environmental consequences, and the textile is sustainable as long as the manufacturing process does not endanger any animals. Most garments made from wool include sweaters, socks, fleece, and underwear.

The Open Product - $84

Fabrics and Companies

S U S T A I N A B L E

FABRICS

HEMP FABRIC NEWLY DECLARED NON-TOXIC, DURABLE, AND NATURALLY PEST-RESISTANT. HEMP CAN BE GROWN PESTICIDE-FREE AND RELY ON ALL-NATURAL FIBER CONTENTS. THE RENEWABLE, HIGH-YIELD CROP ENERGY IT PRODUCES MAKES IT EASY TO WORK WITH SEVERAL DIFFERENT FIBERS. BECAUSE OF ITS FAST PRODUCTION, HEMP'S NATURAL PRODUCTION OVERRUNS OTHER MATERIALS SUCH AS FLAX AND COTTON. COMPANIES WILL NOT HAVE TO OWN THE RESOURCE AND WILL BE ABLE TO KEEP IT IN-HOUSE TO WORK IT INTO COLLECTIONS.

IN THE PAST IT HAS BEEN USED WITH MORE INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTS SUCH AS ROPES OR SAILS BUT NOW CAN BE UTILIZED IN TEXTILES, BEAUTY PRODUCTS, PAPER, BIOFUEL, FOODS AND MORE.

Sporty Tank & High Waited Brief JUNGMAVEN Tank: $44 Brief: $42 Size Range: XS-XXL

Based in Vancouver, WA @jungmaven

RAMIE FABRIC ONE OF THE OLDEST VEGETABLE FIBERS, IT WAS USED PRIMARILY IN ANCIENT EGYPT. IT IS CLASSIFIED AS A BAST FIBER CROP AND HOLDS SEVERAL ADVANTAGES WHEN USED IN GARMENTS. RAMIE IS BACTERIARESISTANT, EXTREMELY ABSORBENT, AND FAIRLY EASY TO ADJUST THE LOOK OF THE FIBER.THE FIBER KEEPS ITS SHAPE AND DOES NOT SHRINK DURING THE WASING PROCESS BECAUSE IT IS VERY STRONG.

ONCE BLENDED WITH OTHER TEXTILE FIBERS, THIS MATERIAL CAN BE COMMONLY FOUND IN INDUSTRIAL THREADS, PACKING MATERIALS, AND FABRICS FOR HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS AND CLOTHING.

Shirred Puff Sleeve Ramie Shirtdress

FRAME Shirt dress: $160 Based in Los Angeles, CA Size Range: XS-XL @frame

COMPANIES

VETTA Based in New York and California

With family-run factories in NYC and Los Angeles run mostly by solar power, Vetta audits for social and environmental consent. By analyzing the impact of each fabric and seeking out those with the highest quality and best performance, Vetta uses an array of eco-sustainable fabrics. This ranges from tercel, linen, supima cotton, organic cotton, ecoveto, recycled polyster, deadstock fabric, and Lenzing modal ponte in their garments.

The entire packaging system is eco-friendly and made from 100% recycled materials.

MARA HOFFMAN Based in New York Designed and manufactured to reduce the impact and generate awareness, Hoffman’s goal is to empower and transform garments with care. All garments are digitally printed, which reduces water waste because the fabric has different washing processes. There are not as many cycles for specific pieces. Instead of forcing garment pieces to fit, the designer strives to adjust a print to fit the garment pieces, which reduces the overall fabric. The manufacturing process considers theproximity to raw materials and what each factory’s individual strengths and skills are. By utilizing the information about artisanal products on the global market, Mara Hoffman is able to offer better economic opportunities for marginalized groups while expanding the audience for handcrafted, special pieces.

DL1961 Based in New York This fairly new brand that has entered the world of sustainability has made quite an impact within the world of denim. Through a process of shredding old denim and post-consumer waste into smaller and smaller pieces, then weaving those into new yarn. By using eco-friendly fibers and high-performance stretch, their denim is perfect for everyday use and does not cause damage to the environment. Given the high water content of denim, it is critical to be mindful of one's choices. DL 1961 recycles 98% of the water and replenishes it in an in-house treatment plant. They have also launched a giveback fund, The Pantry, where they donate a portion of sales to charities and shelters all around NYC. The brand prioritizes the production of every single item by being unique, individual, and produced in a family-owned and selfpowered facility. Their aesthetic is considered wearable, functional, and chic, with the goal of catering to a premium-quality lifestyle.

REFORMATION Based in California

This green brand puts most of the company’s efforts into meeting the demand of the supply chain. By working with partners who share similar values of accountability, transparency, and sustainability, the conditions and stances of this brand excel.

Reformation produces the highest-rated fibers and pulls from deadstock to perfect their personal brand goals for climate positivity. The majority of the fabrics are made from 90% post-industrial recycled cashmere, with some of it blended back into a luxury yarn.

This keeps it from being disposed of in landfills. Reformation also works with NATIVA to source regenerative wool that helps restore the earth. They believe "regenerative practices work with nature instead of against it, by focusing on soil health, getting rid of chemicals whenever possible, and lots more."

BUYING IS NOW A

DISTRACTION AND NOT AN INVESTMENT ANYMORE

Trends

S U S T A I N A B L E

Thrifting Recategorized by Gen Z, the idea of thrifting has been glamorized and made on-trend. The second-hand trade aids in environmental factors in terms of less production and more reuse. With the recycling of clothes between brands, clothes, and generations, the trends of clothing themselves have altered the fashion industry in a grave way. The thrifting relationship between donating and buying has caused an uproar in sustainable trend setting.

Social Media As an ongoing advancement in society, social media has been a large factor in bringing the importance of sustainability to the forefront of people's minds. People tend to spend hours going from store to store with endless purchases. However, with the trends of thrifting, media influencers, and societal brand campaigns, consumer awareness and knowledge have increased.

DO BETTER.

Textiles Magazine - The Fabric File - Winter 23

SWATCHES

NATURAL FIBERS Woven

Cotton Twill

Corduroy

Made from 100% cotton and woven with vertical rows, there is a minimal sheen finish on cotton twill because it is all natural. most commonly used for denim and chino pants. $13.99 per yard

100% cotton woven with ribbed designs of varying widths. There are seam finishes to prevent the fabric from fraying. most commonly used for pants, overalls, and dresses. $22.99 per yard

Muslin

Poplin

Made from 100% cotton with a loosely plain weave, there is no finish. most commonly used for lightweight summer clothes and blankets for babies. $14.95 per yard

Made from 100% cotton with a square-like pattern weave, it has a very smooth finish, which is attained by one by one crossing of warp and weft yarns. It is mostly used with sportwear and raincoats. $13.99 per yard

NATURAL FIBERS Woven

Linen/Rayon

Linen

55% Linen 45% Rayon blend that is woven.

There is a natural texture in linen with a slight sheen depending on the blend. Most commonly found in summer clothing. $15.00 per yard

100% Linen with a satin weave, there is a slight satin finish.

Normally found in. Household interiors, ottomans, curtains, napkins etc. $14.98 per yard

Wool

Wool/Viscose

61% Wool 39% Silk woven blend satinlike sheen Finish on top and matted background. $40-50 per yard

63% Acrylic 13% Wool 19% Viscose boiled and blended wool and viscose looks like 100% wool, but with the softness of rayon.

Perfect for jackets and coats $39.00 per yard

NATURAL FIBERS WOVEN

Jacquard 100% Silk Interwoven complex pattern, low stretch most commonly found in pillows, shirts, drapes, and dresses. $7-$15.00 per yard

Viscose Jacquard 45% Viscose 55% Silk semi-synthetic fiber viscose, slightly softer and lighter version of a normal jaquard. Commonly found in shoes and hair accessories. $20-$30 per yard

Chiffon 80% silk 20% Polyester Very light, transparent fabric weave and produced with crepe twist yarns. Made from different forms of silk, one of the cheaper fabrics because of the low production time and cost. $7 per yard

NATURAL FIBERS Knitted

Single Jersey Mixed material, usually made from cotton but can also be made from synthetic fibres, wool and silk. Crease resistant and little shine most commonly found in activewear IE t shirts and leggings. $8.99 per yard

Double Jersey 100% Polyester & 100% Cotton Blend very stretchy. Structure of the fabric is more stable and compact. Commonly found in cardigans,leggings, sweaters $4.99-8.99 per yard

ARTIFICAL FIBERS

Rayon

Modal

100% Viscose, made of wood from eucalyptus, spruce, and pine trees. no finishes, found mostly in sarees, shirts, and dresses. $17.99 per yard

100% modal, made of beech tree cellulose, slight finish, found mostly in luxury goods, considered a luxury textile. $15.99 per yard

Lyocell 100% Lyocell, made form natural plant cellulose. no finishes, found mostly in workout clothing and swimwear $19.99 per yard

SYNTHETIC FIBERS

Polyester Most common manufactured fiber in any long chain of synthetic polymer. Incredibly strong, does not tear, stretch, or pill easily. Commonly found in winter clothing. $15.99 per yard

Nylon Various different forms of nylon, a chain of reacting carbon-based chemicals found in coal and petroleum. Created in high temperature environments to melt all chemicals and componets most commonly found in activewear and swimwear $1-$4 per yard

Acrylic Made from a synthetic polymer called acrylonitrile, fossil fuel based fiber . Various forms with different levels of composition. Commonly found in jackets, hoodies, and some protective equipment.