Designer Profiles Fall 2023

DESIGNER PORFILES

The ready-to-wear fashion we are seeing for fall/winter 2023 is all about sex and dark femininity.

Trends such as knee-high splits, geometric

cut-outs

and

sheer

fabrics all lends themselves to a sultry skin moment. We are seeing leather garments and this season is all about pairing your leathers with soft feminine fabrics for a rich textured, high contrast look.

EMMA MICHALSKI

F A L L

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table of contents

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Sarah Burton's elevates classic tailoring

6 CHANNEL

Virginie Viard’s collection inspired by the camellia.

10 D I E S E L 14

22 L A Q U A N S M I T H

The reality of an unapologetically sexy look

Glenn Martens brought denium back in sexy way

26 N E N S I D O J A K A

DION LEE

T LAURENT 30 SIt'sAallI Nabout broad-

Exploring a sexy "second skin"

18 M O S C H I N O

Melting of jewels and exploding spikes

Minimalism meets sex

shouldered jackets and pencil skirts

SCHIAPARELLI 34 Going back to their roots in the form of elevated daywear

38 V A L E N T I N O

Transforming the necktie.

FASHION DESIGN /ˈFAƩJON/ /DꞮˈZAꞮN/ NOUN A FORM OF ART DEDICATED TO THE CREATION OF CLOTHING AND OTHER LIFESTYLE ACCESSORIES.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SARAH BURTON'S ELEVATES CLASSIC TAILORING

“Anatomy, anatomy of tailoring, anatomy of clothing…where he started on Savile Row, revisiting construction of garments then tearing it apart and subverting it and turning it upside on its head,” - Sarah Burton

INSPIRATION Theatricality/deconstructed suiting, the orchid, anatomy, crystals

MOOD Sultry, dark femininity, intensity

SILHOUETTES Classic tailoring, bold shoulders

ACCESSORIES Asymmetrical earrings, small sleek bags, statement boots/stilettos

THE COLLECTION This collection deconstructs and reconstructs the classic suit, adding a modern feminine twist.

Burton has a wide range of fabric and textiles including; faux leather, beaded fabrics, sheer fabrics and suiting. These materials create an impactful contrast that bridges clean tailoring and dramatic glam.

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D I S I P L I N E B L O O D

R E D

C R Y S T A L S M O O D Y S E N S U A L

G L A M O U R D A R K

F E M M E

T A I L O R E D S L E E K F I E R C E

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A CLOSER LOOK

CHANNEL

VIRGINIE VIARD’S COLLECTION INSPIRED BY THE CAMELLIA.

INSPIRATION Camila flower, Asia

MOOD Class, sultry, uniform,

SILHOUETTES Long coats, knee length skirts and dresses,layered coat looks

ACCESSORIES Oversized enamel rings, vinyl boots, layered necklaces, cross-body bags, lace gloves

THE COLLECTION The camila is a staple of the Chanel brand and has inspired collections before. Viard has her own take incorporating a heavy mod-style and asian influnces into her designs, the flowers can be found in different fabricated forms in the collection

“It’s a Chanel code that is outside of fashion, outside of time. It’s a winter flower, too, and this is a winter collection"...“It’s about playing around a theme, but the camellia was really more present in the decor.” - Virginie Viard

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A CLOSER LOOK

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C A M I L A M O D S H A D O W C L A S S W H I T E

B L A C K M E M O R Y F L O A L W I N T E R C O L D

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“I always push myself into be like ‘less stories, but deeper into stories’ and I think we did that quite well.”

- Glenn Martins

DIESEL

GLENN MARTENS BROUGHT DENIUM BACK IN SEXY WAY

INSPIRATION Utilitarian inflections and pop aesthetics

MOOD Post-apocalyptic, raw, edgy, sexy

SILHOUETTES Low-rise, short hemlines, fitted, chunky/oversized,

ACCESSORIES Boxy, edgy bags, chunky bracelets fabric pointed toe heel,

THE COLLECTION

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Martens used a variety of different forms such as, mini dresses, hoodies and double-layered separates.

He also made the bold choice to incorporate prints and textures underneath the pieces. The collection was born out of experimentation, in which biker jackets underwent oxidation or blow-torched treatments. Nylon and painted faux furs were also covered in plastic and heated up to create sculptural garments.

R A W D E N I M A C I D - W A S H M O O D Y E D G Y

S T R E E T S L O U C H Y B L U E W H I T E C H U N K Y

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A CLOSER LOOK

DION LEE EXPLORING A SEXY "SECOND SKIN"

“I think as a designer, you’re constantly shifting, evolving and changing. Fashion is like reinventing yourself or constantly moving on, like a departure. It was that parallel between identity and I suppose the patterns in nature — my last collection was really looking at patterns in nature and this idea of biomimicry, so it shifted from that leaf and nature motif into something that was more reptilian,” - Dion Lee

INSPIRATION Second skin, snake, serpent, scale, reptile, shedding, unraveling

MOOD Sexy, lethal, party-ready, club-kid

SILHOUETTES Form fitting, low cut, cut-outs, maxi dresses, layered separates, mini skirts

ACCESSORIES Tall slouchy boots, small chucky bag, layered leather belts

THE COLLECTION Lee explores the concept of a "second skin," which is inspired by reptiles shedding their skin. He experiments with unique fabrication method that plays on the idea of scales such as, fishnets, artisanal crochet and mesh layers. The addition of bold leather accents create a juxtaposition between aggression and beauty.

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D I S I P L I N E B L O O D

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MOSCHINO INSPIRATION

MELTING OF JEWELS AND EXPLODING SPIKES

Punk aesthetic, 1980's, Salvador Dalí’s clocks

MOOD Surrealist, edgy, classy

SILHOUETTES Tailored, fitted miniand maxi dresses, volume

ACCESSORIES Black pumps, large gem jewelry, unique handbag, ankle boots, abstract house, jutting hairstyles

THE COLLECTION Scotts collection features elaborate evening gowns and jewel-toned taffeta suits contrasted with mega spikes that give a powerful theme of an elegant punk style. He also incorporates wavy melted shapes creating nice break in addition to all of the sharp forms

There's a lot of fashion that I don't respond to and I just walk on. I always look for things that make me happy, and in my work, all I'm doing is trying to convey that joy. Fashion should always be fun.

- Jeremy Scott

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A CLOSER LOOK

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J E W E L S M E L T S P I K E S G O L D T O N E D

B L A C K M I N I M A L P U N K W H I T E W A V Y

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LAQUAN SMITH THE REALITY OF AN UNAPOLOGETICALLY SEXY LOOK

“What has helped me build this collection has been watching the way that my customer is shopping.

It’s really incredible to see the way that women have been purchasing the clothes and not just coming to me for that one special dress anymore. They want a coat, they want a bodysuit, they want a top.

They want to be able to interchange throughout the day.”

- LaQuan Smith

INSPIRATION Boss lady, geometric aesthetic

MOOD Sexy, whimsical, edgy

SILHOUETTES Tailored, fitted mini and maxi dresses, cutouts, overcoats, high-waisted,

ACCESSORIES Chunky bangles and earrings, briefcases, stilettos

THE COLLECTION

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Smith blends sultry evening wear with classic tailoring, riffing on tuxedo dressing, the collection has a very 'boss ladies aesthetic' to it. He uses both asymmetry and symmetry to make an impact with strong geometric form. The wide range of fabrics makes the body of work even more dynamic

D E N I M R A W E D G Y B O D Y S K I N

R E D A C I D - W A S H W I D E C H U C K Y S T R E E T

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A CLOSER LOOK

NENSI DOJAKA MINIMALISM MEETS SEX

INSPIRATION Lingerie, 'Little Black Dress'

MOOD Sultry, chic, sexy, mysterious

SILHOUETTES Over-sized tailored coats, fitted mini and maxi dresses

ACCESSORIES Embellished stilettos, chunky organic earring and necklace sets

THE COLLECTION Dojaka created intricate designs for the body featuring her staples such as, frilled bra cups, spaghetti straps, and heart-shaped details in illusion tulle. The sheer fabrics cling to the body , they are broken up by circular cutouts at the back and opaque asymmetrical layered shapes.

“Expanding the wardrobe based on what I’d done before,”...“And I guess it was more minimal because I think we’re entering a more minimal phase.”

- Nuns Dojaka

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A CLOSER LOOK

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S U L T R Y B L A C K C L I N G S K I N M Y S T E R Y

S E X Y M I N I M A L S H E E R G L A M L A C E

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SAINT LAURENT IT'S ALL ABOUT BROADSHOULDERED JACKETS AND PENCIL SKIRTS

“Creating a dream, an attraction, a strong vision, something that gives a unique feeling to what you buy, is more important than ever,” -Anthony Vaccarello

INSPIRATION 1980's power suit, Mod-style, Parisian- style

MOOD Chic, drama, elegant

SILHOUETTES Exaggerated shoulders, fitted skirts, oversized coats

ACCESSORIES Vinyl stilettos, aviator sunglasses, leather gloves, gold hoop earrings, chunky cuffs

THE COLLECTION This collection was all about drama. Heavly inspired by the classic 1980's power suit featuring Tieneck blouses, giant bows and trailed coats with giant shoulder pads. Has influences of mod and Parisian styles to create a cohesive work that speaks to elegance, edge, and drama.

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SCHIAPARELLI GOING BACK TO THEIR ROOTS IN THE FORM OF ELAVATED DAYWEAR

INSPIRATION Elsa Schiaparelli, human faces, lilies, oyster shells, key holes

MOOD Sultry, chic, whimsical

SILHOUETTES Tailored coats, fitted waist line, fitted pants

ACCESSORIES Turbans, wide brim headpieces, sets of bold fashion jewelry, custom handbags, point toe heels/boots

THE COLLECTION Roseberry took the brand back to its root drawing inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli's style.

The collection features hand-painted motifs on outerwear and the classic Schiaparelli surreal touches can be seen almost every outfit suck as, keyhole-shaped buttons, faces, and golden sunglasses. This collection is polished, elevated every day wear that was described as, "ideal for those women looking for a little whimsy in their lives."

“I wanted to show the readyto-wear in a way that felt more intimate and more tender…

For me, it was also less about this fantasy and more about people knowing who this Schiaparelli woman really is.

How she dresses, and the choices that she makes,” - Daniel Roseberry

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S U L T R Y B L A C K C H I C K E Y H O L E S F I T T E D

F A C E S W H I M S Y G O L D T A I L O R E D L I L I E S

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VALENTINO TRANSFORMING THE NECKTIE

“For her, it was not traditional, it was not classic — it was just something new that she didn’t know,” he related. “Even tailoring, like a classic jacket, a necktie or white shirt — for young people, it’s something new.”

- Pierpaolo Piccioli

INSPIRATION Uniforms, "Men in Black" film, “The Man-Machine” album cover, Avril Lavigne

MOOD Whimsical, young, edgy, expressive

SILHOUETTES Oversized coats, layer sets, flowy maxi dresss, form fitting mini dresses and skirts

ACCESSORIES Neck tattoos, nose and lip piercings, black ties, statement couches, leather ankle boots

THE COLLECTION This collection transforms the necktie from a symbol of uniformity to a form of expression. Piccioli elaborated on the shirt and tie, creating outfits with colorful and geometric tailoring. The variety of fabric choices also brought new materials and textures to the classic necktie.

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T A I L O R E D S L E E K F I E R C E

D I S I P L I N E B L O O D

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www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alexandermcqueen/slideshow/collection#1

MOORE, BOOTH. “ALEXANDER MCQUEEN RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 5 MAR. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/alexander-mcqueen/review/

SALIBIAN, SANDRA. “DIESEL RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 22 FEB. 2023, hwwd.com/runway/fall-2023/milan/diesel/review/

MERCER, EMILY. “DION LEE RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 11 FEB. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/new-york/dion-lee/review/

DIDERICH, JOELLE. “CHANEL RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 7 MAR. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/chanel/review/

SOCHA, MILES. “MOSCHINO RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 24 FEB. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/milan/moschino/review/

MOORE, BOOTH. “LAQUAN SMITH RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 14 FEB. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/new-york/laquan-smith/review/

SOCHA, MILES. “NENSI DOJAKA RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 20 FEB. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/london/nensi-dojaka/review/

SOCHA, MILES. “SAINT LAURENT RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 1 MAR. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/yves-saint-laurent/review/

ZHANG, TIANWEI. “SCHIAPARELLI RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 3 MAR. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/schiaparelli/review/

SOCHA, MILES. “VALENTINO RTW FALL 2023.” WWD, 6 MAR. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/valentino/review/

SOURES

NAST, CONDÉ. “ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL 2023 READY-TO-WEAR FASHION SHOW.” VOGUE,