ISSUE 23 â&#x20AC;˘ FALL 2014
Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County
The Season for Persimmons Eating Lotus Santa Maria Agriculture MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
Margerum & MWC32 Join us at our NEW SPACE in the El Paseo Courtyard • Offering limited, library and reserve wines
OUR TWO TASTING ROOMS
MARGERUM TASTING ROOM
813 ANACAPA STREET (In the El Paseo Courtyard)
813 ANACAPA STREET (Adjacent to the Wine Cask)
Open Daily 12–6pm • Space available for private events • 805.845.8435 • MargerumWineCompany.com
Downtown Santa Barbara Wine Tasting Serving Family-Owned Handcrafted Bordeaux from Happy Canyon
Daily 12 – 6 Mention “Edible” for a 2 for 1 Tasting
813 Anacapa St
(805) 897-3366 GrassiniFamilyVineyards.com
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SANTA BAR BAR A
C AROLE TOPALIAN
SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, NOVEMBER
STE VEN BROWN
Departments 8 Food for Thought
24 Drinkable Landscape
by Krista Harris
Toasts to Tangerine
10 Eat Drink Local
The Eat Local Challenge by Krista Harris
12 Edible Notables
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26 Edible Garden Uncovering Cover Crops by Joan S. Bolton
30 Liquid Assets
15 In Season
by Janice Cook Knight
16 Seasonal Recipes
66 Event Calendar
22 Edible Books
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Olive Oil Crackers Balsamic Vinegar Jam Salsa Vertical Tasting: Nut Butters
Grilled Local Spiny Lobster Almond Milk Stuffing
by George Yatchisin
Fall Reading List by Nancy Oster
A Brilliant Solution by Laura Sanchez
34 Now Showing Returning Veterans Turn
68 Dining Guide 71 Source Guide and Maps 80 The Last Bite
Fall’s Don’t-Miss Dish
by Liz Dodder
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SANTA BAR BAR A
SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, NOVEMBER
38 Seasoned by the Sea Capturing Santa Barbara’s Essence in a Glass of Beer
by Laura Sanchez
4 A Pretty Mouthful 4 Eating Lotus by Carol Penn-Romine
Recipes in This Issue Appetizer
50 Santa Maria Agriculture and Legacy In Ontiveros, Veritas by Jaime Lewis
47 Lotus Chips
56 Hurray for the Orange, Red and Gold The Season for Persimmons by Janice Cook Knight
Side Dishes and Main Dishes
60 Harvesting the Seeds of Knowledge at Fairview Gardens by Rachel Hommel
62 Eating Your Local Harvest When Gardens Go Bonkers by Pascale Beale ABOUT THE COVER
A collage of fall fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds by Steven Brown and Erin Feinblatt.
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Salad 63 Roasted Kale and Grilled Persimmon Salad 16 Grilled Local Spiny Lobster 64 Roasted Root Vegetables with Herb Pesto 20 Stuffing
Desserts 65 Apple and Almond Crumble 48 Lotus Seed Candy
Beverages 18 Almond Milk 25 Tangerine Dancer
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FOOD FOR D THOUGHT
SANTA BAR BAR A
Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)
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spend a lot of time reading… especially about food. Cookbooks, memoirs and lots of food magazines, I have bookshelves full of them all. I know, what a shocker. But what you’ll also find filling most of my bookshelves are other Edible magazines from all over North America. My husband and I own and publish Edible Santa Barbara, and we are also members of Edible Communities, a network of over 80 Edible magazines throughout the United States and Canada. Many people don’t realize that Edible magazines have this type of independent yet cooperative business relationship — not a franchise and not a cookie cutter approach. But having this network is incredibly valuable to me as a publisher. Most of those 80 Edible magazines send a copy of their magazine to me each quarter, so I get to read about what is happening in Edible Manhattan, Edible Vancouver, Edible San Diego and Edible Iowa River Valley, to name just a few. It is wonderful to read about a local beekeeper in Edible Boston or to read about eating snails in Edible San Francisco. I’ll never forget the article about kudzu in Edible Memphis, and how, when the writer moved to the West Coast, we luckily convinced her to write for Edible Santa Barbara on occasion, including in this issue. These other locally owned and operated Edible magazines are a real family to me, and I appreciate and learn from the work they are doing. And I feel fortunate that when people move here or travel here from areas where there are other Edible magazines, one of the first things they look for is our magazine. They know that they’ll find the local resources in our magazine that they have grown to love in other Edible magazines. That’s not to say that we aren’t all very different. Each Edible magazine is unique and reflects the city or region that it is in. You won’t find another magazine quite like Edible Santa Barbara. For instance, this fall, writer Laura Sanchez takes us on a journey to make local beer using local saltwater. Janice Cook Knight extols the versatility of the seasonal persimmon. And Carol Penn-Romine will have you thinking about eating something you probably never thought of eating: the lotus. That is just the tip of the iceberg in this Eat Drink Local themed issue. I hope we continue to surprise and delight our readers with all things edible in Santa Barbara County.
Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher
Sign up for the Edible Santa Barbara Cooking Club at EdibleSantaBarbara.com. We love to hear from our readers. Please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR
Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR
Nancy Oster COPY EDITOR
Doug Adrianson DESIGNER
Steven Brown SOCIAL MEDIA
Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Nell Campbell Fran Collin Liz Dodder Harriet Eckstein Erin Feinblatt Janice Cook Knight Rachel Hommel Nancy Oster Carol Penn-Romine Laura Sanchez Carole Topalian George Yatchisin
Contact Us email@example.com
Advertising Inquiries firstname.lastname@example.org Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
edible Santa Barbara
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E AT D R I N K L O C A L
The Eat Local Challenge by Krista Harris e Santa Barba ibl ra d E
To Learn More To formally sign the pledge and learn more about eating local, visit the Edible Santa Barbara booth at the SOL Food Festival on Saturday, September 27, 10am–6pm in Vera Cruz Park, Santa Barbara; SOLFoodFestival.com. There will be additional information at the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Markets throughout the month of October. To find out more about the Eat Local Challenge, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com or join the event and group Eat Local Challenge on Facebook. Let us know how it’s going by posting your progress on Facebook on the Edible Santa Barbara, CEC or Farmers Market pages. Use #EatLocalSB, @EdibleSB and @CECSB on Twitter or Instagram. If you are blogging or would like to share your experiences, email us at info@EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
Eat Local Challenge Supper Club
his October you are invited to join an event that takes place every day and all over Santa Barbara County and beyond. It will happen in your kitchen, in restaurants and any time you stop to have a bite to eat or a sip to drink. It’s our sixth annual Eat Local Challenge, and it’s all about eating and drinking what’s local throughout the entire month of October. Here’s how it works: You take a pledge (either formally or informally) to eat entirely local food. But don’t worry—that’s not as daunting as it sounds. You can choose to eat only foods produced within a 100-mile or 150-mile radius of your home, or within the tri-county region, or even within California. You can also decide if you are going to make any exceptions (such as coffee, tea or spices), but the idea is to try to stay as local as possible. We’re here to help, too. Edible Santa Barbara is partnering with the Community Environmental Council, the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market and the Santa Barbara County Foodbank to sponsor the challenge and to provide resources for you during the challenge. You can follow the blogs on EdibleSantaBarbara.com and CECSB.org to hear from people who have done the Eat Local Challenge in the past and those who are currently doing it and writing about it. There will also be events such as the SOL Food Festival and the Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club to inspire and keep you going during the challenge. The challenge is a great way to encourage you to think about where your food comes from and to perhaps change the way you shop and the food you buy.
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Join us for a special Eat Local Challenge dinner at Buttonwood Farm & Winery on Sunday, October 19. Chef Luca Crestanelli of S.Y. Kitchen will prepare a locavore feast using ingredients grown and raised at Buttonwood, paired with Buttonwood wines. For details and tickets visit the Events section on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
Learn to Cook…Local Edible Santa Barbara is partnering with the SOL Food Festival to bring you a series of hands-on classes focusing on cooking techniques and using local ingredients. The classes include: Knife Skills, Making Your Own Butter and Cheese, Making Your Own Sourdough Bread and How to Ferment Vegetables. They will be held at the SOL Food Festival Hands On Kitchen Stage on September 27 beginning at 11am. SOLFoodFestival.com.
Eating Out…Local When eating out, it’s not difficult to choose restaurants that serve local food. Check out our Edible Santa Barbara Dining Guide and look for Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market Farm Friendly Dining Certified restaurants. Some restaurant menus will list what is local or even the farm that an ingredient comes from. If local items aren’t listed, feel free to ask. Availability often changes, but servers and chefs are usually happy to let customers know. And the more people ask, the more they will know that sourcing local is appreciated.
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 11
Build a Locavore Pantry Stock up on all these local products for the Eat Local Challenge during the month of October and beyond.
Crackers New Vineland Bakery
It’s such a great convenience to have an assortment of crackers in your pantry, and some of the tastiest crackers you’ll find are from New Vineland Bakery. What makes these crackers even more amazing is that they are made from the wheat New Vineland grows locally in Los Olivos. Although New Vineland is known for its tasty bread, its crackers and cookies have also developed a devoted following. You can find them at the Saturday Santa Barbara Farmers Market at Cota and Anacapa, 8:30am–1pm, and also at the Piedrasassi Tasting Room Fridays through Saturdays noon–5pm at 1501 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc. Visit Piedrasassi.com for more information.
Balsamic Vinegar Mazzini
Olive Oil Il Fustino
If there is one thing that you can’t do without in the kitchen it’s olive oil. Luckily we have lots of options for local olive oil in Santa Barbara County. To find the oil that’s perfect for you, try doing a tasting at il Fustino. A tasting is a great way to learn more about the different varietals of olives. And you don’t need to save your local olive oil for special occasions: Cook with it every day, just like Italians do. One way to keep a large supply on hand is to store it in a fusti. These stainless steel containers minimize exposure to air and light and keep the contents fresh. Il Fustino is located at 3401 State St. and at the Santa Barbara Public Market at 38 W. Victoria St. ilFustino.com
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If you’ve stocked your pantry with local olive oil, the next thing you might be looking for is local vinegar. David Mazzonetto is a bit of a local Renaissance man here in Santa Barbara County. In addition to making wine, beer and an amazing array of Old World sausages, he also makes small batches of handcrafted and aged balsamic vinegar. It’s not an overly sweet reduction, just a perfectly balanced and flavorful vinegar to use in salads and as a condiment. You can find Mazzini vinegar at Valley Brewers in Solvang. ValleyBrewers.com. Also check DogHillVineyard.com for more information about David Mazzonetto’s wine and sausage.
Jam Pascale’s Kitchen
A great jam can be used for more than just toast in the morning. One of the more unique local offerings is Pascale’s Kitchen Tomato Lavender Jam. It is mildly sweet, with the delectable taste of summer tomatoes and a touch of lavender. Although it is delicious by the spoonful, you can also put it on a cracker with goat cheese for an appetizer, pair it with some smoked fish or try it with any of the Rock Rose Provisions nut butters. Think sophisticated peanut butter and jelly sandwich when you pair it with the Chocolate Espresso Peanut Butter. Pascale’s jams are handcrafted with seasonal ingredients and sell out quickly each year, so don’t wait too long to add some to your pantry. You can find the Tomato Lavender Jam (as well as many other delicious flavors of jam) at PascalesKitchen.com.
Nutty Butters If you are looking for a local peanut butter, you will find just what you need and quite a bit more from the creative handcrafted nut butters by Rock Rose Provisions. We picked four to do a vertical tasting that took our taste buds on a culinary tour.
Coconut Ginger Cashew Butter South East Asia This is pure addiction by the spoonful. You will want to try it as a dip or sauce with Thai food, but then you might find yourself just wanting to lick it off your fingers. Yes, it’s that good. Don’t mask its delicious flavor by pairing it with something too strong, but you can’t go wrong with Vietnamese spring rolls or shrimp.
Chocolate Espresso Peanut Butter Mocha Java Yes, it’s peanut butter, but it’s so much better. The coffee and cocoa add a depth of flavor that you just have to experience. Somehow it manages to be not too sweet and just shy of tasting burnt. It is sublime with something as simple as ripe red grapes. But we could also see it with beef satay or drizzled over a little chocolate gelato.
Maple and Spice Almond Butter Home for the Holidays You could call this Thanksgiving in a nutshell. The color looks like fall foliage, and the warm toasty spices are perfectly balanced with the flavor of the almond. You could add this to a cookie recipe or just slather it over some nice, crisp apples. And it would make a great hostess gift for Thanksgiving.
Salsa Mesa Salsa Co.
You can’t live in Santa Barbara without salsa. And when you don’t make it yourself from scratch, it’s good to know that there’s a terrific local option. Mesa Salsa Co. makes delicious fresh salsa that features local and organic ingredients. We also love the fact that it’s locally owned by mother-anddaughter team Anne and Ali Altamirano. Try the mild salsa alongside some grilled fish and use the spicy salsa in wraps and burritos. A combination of the two mixed into smashed up avocados makes an instant guacamole. You can find Mesa Salsa at Plow to Porch, Mesa Produce, Isla Vista Food Co-op, Lazy Acres, New Frontiers, Isabella Gourmet Foods and Whole Foods, as well as other local grocery stores. For more information, visit their Facebook page at MesaSalsaCo.
Smoked Chipotle Sunflower Seed Butter A Taste of Latin America This is spicy, and a little will go a long way. The spices will make it a natural with a mole sauce. But it could also work as a glaze on some barbecue ribs. Use this when you feel like spicing things up a bit. Pair with a frosty local beer. In addition to these four, Rock Rose Provisions has several other flavors. You can find them at Isabella Gourmet Foods, Santa Barbara Public Market, C’est Cheese, Plow to Porch, Crazy Good Bread, Isla Vista Food Co-op, Blend at Bacara, and many other locations and online stores listed (along with some pretty fabulous recipes) at RockRoseProvisions.com
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Season this fall Fall Produce Artichokes Asparagus Avocados Basil Beans, green Blackberries Blueberries Brussels sprouts Cabbage Cantaloupe Celery Cherimoya Chiles Chives Cilantro Collards Corn Cucumber Dill Eggplant Fennel Figs Grapefruit Grapes Kiwi Lavender Limes Melons Mint Mustard greens Nectarines Onions, green bunching Peaches Peppers Persimmon Plums/Pluots Pomegranate Raspberries Squash, summer Strawberries Tangerines/Mandarins Tomatillo Tomatoes Turnips Watermelon
Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)
Fall Seafood Mussels Ridgeback shrimp Rock fish Sardines Spiny lobster Swordfish White sea bass Yellowtail
Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates
Eggs Coffee Dairy
(harvested Sept/Oct) (harvested May/June)
(Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)
Edible flowers Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb
Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Potatoes Radish Raisins
Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sand dabs Urchin
(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)
Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat
(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)
Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat
(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta, pies produced from wheat grown locally)
Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter
Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
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Recipes Grilled Local Spiny Lobster Whether you are participating in the Eat Local Challenge or whether you just like lobster, our local California Spiny Lobsters are better tasting and fresher than their cousins from the East Coast. Lobster season starts in October. For information on fishing regulations and how to get a license go to the California Department of Fish and Wildlife website (Wildlife.ca.gov). Or visit the Saturday morning fisherman’s market at the Santa Barbara Harbor to buy lobster straight from the fishermen. Then prepare your lobster the classic California way: by grilling it. Makes 2 servings 1 live local spiny lobster Butter or olive oil Salt and pepper Quartered lemons or limes, tortillas, salsa and beans (if desired for serving)
Heat your grill to medium-high, preferably using red oak coals. While the grill is heating up, kill the lobster by pressing the point of a large sharp knife into the head just above the eyes. Make sure the knife goes all the way through the lobster’s head all the way to the cutting board. This will kill the lobster as quickly and painlessly as possible. Cut the lobster in half from head to tail. Remove the stomach and the intestinal vein that runs between the tail and stomach. You can also remove the tomalley (liver) and the smaller legs. Brush each half with melted butter or olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on the grill, meat side down, and grill for 3– 4 minutes. Turn and brush with more melted butter or olive oil and grill until slightly opaque in the center, about 5–10 minutes. The time will vary depending on the size of the lobster and the heat of the coals. A delicious way to serve the lobster is Puerto Nuevo style: place on a platter with more melted butter and quartered lemons or lime. Serve with freshly grilled corn tortillas, salsa and beans.
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Come Taste Purisima Mountain, the Santa Ynez Valley’s Premier Certified Biodynamic Vineyard
From Our Vineyard to Your Table SUSTAINABLE FARMING WITH A 40+ YEAR HERITAGE Our tasting room is open daily from 10am– 4 pm. Come in and enjoy the Zaca Mesa experience. Present this ad for a 2 for 1 tasting. Eric Mohseni, Winemaker (left) and Ruben Camacho, Vineyard Foreman
6905 foxen canyon road, los olivos 805-688-9339 santa ynez valley • www.zacamesa.com
Visit our Tasting Room and Picnic Grounds 2670 Ontiveros Rd. Los Olivos, Ca 93441 Tasting room hours daily 11– 5 805-688-8664
A Coastal Christmas Warm up your winter with extravagant holiday brunches, seasonal cocktails, live music and festive children’s activities. Please call (844) 258.2150 or visit www.BacaraResort.com for additional information on Bacara’s holiday festivities.
8301 Hollister Avenue, Santa Barbara, California
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 17
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Almond Milk Making your own almond milk from local almonds is not just a great idea for those taking the Eat Local Challenge. This freshly made almond milk is far more delicious than what you can buy in a box. Use it up quickly— though that won’t be hard — as it will only keep a short time in your refrigerator. Drink it chilled or steamed for a latte. You can also use it in place of milk in recipes or freeze in an ice cream maker for sorbet. Make approximately 2 cups 1 cup raw local almonds Water Dates, optional Honey, optional
Place the almonds in a deep bowl with enough water to cover by about an inch. Let soak for 1 to 2 days.
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Drain and rinse the almonds and then place in a blender or food processer with 2 cups of water. Add 1 or 2 pitted dates if you want a little more sweetness. Blend and pulse until very fine and the water is milky.
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Line a strainer with cheesecloth and set over a large bowl with a spout or a measuring cup. Then pour the mixture into the strainer and twist the cheesecloth, squeezing out every last bit of almond milk. You can also add a little honey to taste. Refrigerate and use within a day or two.
Come for our Estate wines, Stay for the out-of-this-world experience! Celebrating our Tasting Room’s first anniversary — October, 2014
Artisan Bread Hand-made in Small Batches
Gateway to Wine Country! Martian Ranch & Vineyard 9110 Alisos Canyon Road Los Alamos, CA 93440 805-344-1805 Weds–Sun, 11am–5pm MartianVineyard.com
ALISOS CANYON ROAD
Just south of Los Alamos, Alisos Canyon Road joins Hwy 101 to Foxen Canyon Road. We’re halfway in between, 3.3 miles east of Hwy 101. Los Alamos
Open Thursday-Monday 7am-6pm 550 Bell Street Los Alamos 93440 805-344-3000
email@example.com www.bobswellbread.com Follow Us:
FULL of LIFE
Flatbread Los Alamos, California
field baking since 2003
Restaurant, certified org anic frozen pizzas, field bakes and catering w w w.Fu llO f Li f eFo o ds.co m
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 19
Makes 6 – 8 servings 1
⁄ 2 pound sausage (optional)
Butter or olive oil 1 yellow onion, chopped 1 tart apple, cored and chopped (not peeled) 1 large stalk of celery, chopped 3
⁄ 4 –1 loaf of crusty day-old bread, cut into cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste Small bunch of Italian parsley, leaves chopped (stems discarded)
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A few sage leaves or thyme leaves, chopped (optional)
⁄ 2 cup raisins or sun-dried tomatoes or dried pears or dried cranberries (optional) 1
⁄ 2 cup chopped almonds, walnuts or other nuts (optional)
Some vegetable broth and/or beaten egg
Crumble the sausage into a skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring, until lightly browned. With a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to the mixing bowl. Melt butter in the skillet. Add chopped onions and cook over medium heat until tender and lightly colored, about 10 minutes. Add the apple and celery and sauté a few more minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Add some of the bread cubes along with the remaining ingredients to the mixing bowl and combine. Add more bread crumbs as needed to create a nice ratio of ingredients. Add a little vegetable broth and/or a beaten egg until moist enough to squeeze into a ball. Use some or all to stuff a chicken or turkey and/or bake the stuffing in a covered casserole in a 325° oven for about 40 minutes, removing the cover and raising the heat in the last few minutes to brown the top. If you are roasting a bird at the same time, try basting the top with some of the juices from the bird during the last few minutes of baking.
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Stuffing —it’s not just for Thanksgiving anymore. This recipe is suitable for stuffing a Thanksgiving turkey, and yet is adaptable enough anytime you want a delectable side dish. And if you make it without the sausage and serve some braised sausages on top, it can even become a one-dish meal. It can also be made with corn bread instead of wheat bread, and it can easily be made vegan by leaving out the sausage and using olive oil and vegetable broth. And as everyone knows, it makes great leftovers.
CHOCOL ATE OF THE WOR LD HANDCR AFTED IN SANTA BARBAR A
Monday – Friday 10am – 6pm, Saturday 10am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm
15 West Gutierrez Street Santa Barbara, California 93101 Phone:(805) 965-5956 Fax:(805) 563-1263
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Fall Reading List by Nancy Oster
Fall is a great time to hit the books. But instead of textbooks, we have two cookbooks and two food-related books that you will want to put on your must-read list. And looking ahead to the holidays, all four of these would be perfect for the gift-giving season.
Nourished: The Art of Eating and Living Well By Luna Paige Smith (goodwitchbooks, 170 pages, paperback, $28) Number of recipes: 72
Local cookbook author Luna Paige Smith starts off her mornings with Quinoa Pancakes served with fresh figs, goat yogurt and honey or maybe a serving of Banana Buckwheat Breakfast Porridge topped with honey and toasted nuts. Luna’s wholesome innovative recipes are gluten free and primarily organic vegetarian. An occasional meal with meat, eggs or fish focuses on grass-fed, antibiotic- and hormone-free proteins simply prepared with flavorful accompaniments—such as Orange-Miso Salmon with Fresh Ginger and Baby Bok Choy. Drawing from her working knowledge of fresh vegetables, fruits and gluten-free grains and flours, she presents an appealing collection of beautifully photographed drinks, soups, entrees, accompaniments and desserts. For the winter holidays, she recommends her Wild Arugula with Orange, Pecans & Shaved Fennel Salad. And for dessert, perhaps, a slice of Ginger Molasses Cake with Coconut Cashew Cream. Gluten-free meals that will satisfy everyone at the table.
Salade: Recipes from the Market Table By Pascale Beale (M27 Editions, 216 pages, softcover, $29.95) Number of recipes: 90
Pascale Beale’s salads begin with a trip to the farmers market, where she selects the freshest seasonal ingredients to mix with olive oil vinaigrette, a sprinkling of coarse salt and a twist of spicy black pepper. Yes, it’s that easy. Layering texture, flavor and color, Pascale shows you how to create stunning salads—as you will see from the gorgeous full-page photos that accompany each recipe. Salads, such as the Mache, Mint and Pluot Salad shown on the cover, can easily become the focal point of any meal. Pascale groups her recipes by key ingredient. Those sweet colorful carrots you found at the farmers market today? Choose the Roasted Kale and Rainbow Carrot Salad or the Carrot, Radish and Orange Salad. Historical and personal anecdotes make this book a treasured resource for any cookbook library. 22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food By Dan Barber (The Penguin Press, 486 pages, hardcover, $29.95) Chef Dan Barber of the Blue Hill restaurants in New York embraces the farm-to-table approach, but questions the sustainability of “cherry-picking of ingredients that are often ecologically demanding and expensive to grow.” Today’s cuisine forces farmers to grow crops that require lots of soil nutrients and to raise lambs to sell just the chops, rather than alternating crops that add nutrients to the soil and offering other flavorful cuts of meat. Barber says the role of the enlightened chef is to “create demand for soil-improving crops and enlarge our sense of what is delicious.” Taking us deep into the web of soil, land, sea and seedling, Barber illustrates how these elements of our food system can come together in harmony to feed us more sustainably. His future (third plate) entrée features a steak-sized root vegetable garnished with a braised meat sauce. Well-researched, timely, thought-provoking work!
Local: The New Face of Food and Farming in America By Douglas Gayeton (Harper Design, 272 pages, hardcover, $35) Number of recipes: 3
“Your words can change the world,” says writer/photographer/ filmmaker Douglas Gayeton. “Words are the building blocks for ideas.” Taking us on an annotated photographic journey across the country, Gayeton interviews farmers, fishermen, dairymen and educators. Their stories help him define more than 200 words commonly used in the sustainable food movement, exploring the nuances of their use and the underlying issues they address. What does the word “local” mean for example. Are the boundaries defined by distance, geography, region, culture, personal connection—or does it matter? “After reading this book,” Gayeton says, “please give it away.” He explains that the real audience for this book might never buy it, but the stories reflected on these pages could inspire them, armed with a deeper understanding of the movement, to speak out and help find ways to support and promote a healthier, safer food system for America.
FOOD you f e e l
5668 Calle Real Goleta, CA 93117 805.770.2730
Next to Panino, Across from Trader Joe’s
331 Motor Way Santa Barbara, CA 93101 805.845.5379 Corner of State and Gutierrez
3849 State St. Suite i157 Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805.569.0011 In La Cumbre Plaza, next to Vons
W I N E R Y & V I N E YA R D S
History and Sustainability in the Sta. Rita Hills since 1970 Pinot Noir – Chardonnay – Pinot Gris – Pinot Blanc
Wine Tasting Daily 11:00am–4:30pm Alma Rosa Tasting Room and Offices 250-G Industrial Way, Buellton, CA 93427 805.688.9090 – AlmaRosaWinery.com
Richard Sanford cradles a cluster of Pinot Noir in the El Jabalí Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, 2013
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 23
STE VEN BROWN
Toasts to Tangerine by George Yatchisin
ometimes it’s good to look to others for inspiration. Especially in the case of the Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara, where not only do they have a secret chef ’s garden, and not only do they like featuring a “100-mile cocktail” of all-local ingredients, but they also have an elegant cocktail lounge where a random bird hops about the tile floor as you discuss their cocktail program with Ty Lounge Manager Jennifer Higgins. “The birds come in here all the time,” she says. “It’s part of our indoor-outdoor atmosphere.” 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
The Biltmore is also big on letting people know they are in Santa Barbara, not just some anonymous if elegant Resortland, from Executive Chef Alessandro Cartumini’s delicious farmers-market-driven menus to the drinks at the bar. “It’s part of the Four Seasons initiative, which is to localize the experience,” Higgins explains. “We work closely with the chef and know when things will be available from local farmers.” Not to mention they are also in the forefront featuring products from local distilleries Ascendant and Cutler. All this experience, plus their having a full hotel kitchen in which to experiment, made me feel even better about turning to them for the always-difficult Santa Barbara fall cocktail—will the weather be hot, cold or both? What mixologist Daniel Whiting came up with works for any temperature: the Tangerine Dancer, inspired by Frank Sinatra’s version of Johnny Mercer’s slightly samba “Tangerine.” (In fact, if you play Sinatra and Swingin’ Brass while drinking the cocktail, you might teleport to an early season of Mad Men.) The drink also has tropical roots in its tangerine juice (and in the fall tangerines are just burstingly fresh to the market), but then there are warming notes, too, from the pungent spice scents, the baking notes of vanilla. Speaking of that, here’s to the Ty Lounge’s find of Bainbridge Organic Vanilla Vodka, the first organic vodka out of Washington (one of the brand’s owners lives locally and hangs at the Lounge). A grain-to-glass product, as they call it, each bottle gets three or four eight-inch-long vanilla pods and four months bottle-aging to infuse. So, you could substitute a vanilla vodka like Stoli, but it won’t have as round and rich a taste. Or, you could prep this cocktail and get started on holiday presents all at once. Get some of your favorite vodka, and maybe choose one you like that also comes in a gorgeous bottle (like Ascendant’s American Star). Drop three or four of the best vanilla bean pods you can afford to buy (Bainbridge uses ones from Madagascar) into the bottles, and store them away in a cool, dark place. In four months, voilà, you’ve got a great vanilla vodka and homemade presents for the holidays. The vodka will become the color of weak tea. Indeed, while this is a recipe that can involve many extra steps (if you can, try it with whipped, and not just whipping cream, for extra richness), it keeps spinning off great side products, like the glory days of TV when All in the Family begat Maude and The Jeffersons. Simple syrup is one of the great bar tricks, as it allows you to add sweetness as a liquid. It couldn’t be easier to make: equal parts sugar and water. Boil. But it also becomes a wonderful carrier for other flavors, in this case more vanilla. Then what you don’t use for the drinks, try on pancakes or waffles or see how a dash or two of it tastes with your morning coffee or favorite bourbon.
Ultimately, the Tangerine Dancer is something both complex and unified, a bit light in alcohol (the vodka is the only fire) and a bit heavy in mouthfeel. This is sort of the adult, and way better than what you remembered from your childhood, Creamsicle of your dreams. Plus fall equals Halloween; when better for an orange-hued cocktail? George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com
Tangerine Dancer (Created by Daniel Whiting, Ty Lounge mixologist) Makes 2 cocktails 4 ounces Bainbridge Organic Vanilla Vodka 1
⁄ 2 ounce orgeat syrup
1 ounce vanilla simple syrup (recipe follows) 3 ounces fresh-squeezed tangerine juice 2 dashes (about 1 tablespoon) whipped cream (or substitute heavy whipping cream)
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1 dash Peychaud’s bitters (per drink)
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Build vodka, orgeat, simple syrup, juice and whipped or whipping cream in cocktail shaker over ice. (Yes, making whipped cream adds another pre-step to this cocktail, unless you have some around for dessert. So heavy whipping cream can work, but the cocktail won’t be quite as rich.) Shake and strain evenly into two coupe glasses. Finish each drink with a dash of both bitters. Float a clove-dusted tangerine slice and a whole clove as aromatic garnish for each cocktail.
Vanilla Syrup (Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara) 1 cup sugar 1 cup water
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Bring sugar and water to a boil over medium heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and cool. Stir in vanilla extract and store in refrigerator. Simple syrup can keep for up to four weeks, and feel free to use it for other purposes. Soon you will be making simple syrups of all flavors (Jennifer likes making a black pepper simple syrup).
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Uncovering Cover Crops by Joan S. Bolton
owing a cover crop this fall may sound like no more than providing a cozy blanket for the soil to snuggle under during winter. But that’s only the start. Of far greater importance, cover crops provide a natural way to build healthy soil. They add organic material, replenish nutrients, cycle nutrients from the depths to the upper layers, loosen up compaction, help stem erosion and crowd out weeds. They also provide sustenance to beneficial insects during the cool season when other forage or habitat plants may not be growing. The technique lost favor in the middle of the last century, when chemicals became the widespread solution to just about any ailment associated with growing food. Now, with an increasing number of farmers embracing organic Fava beans as they begin to flower. and sustainable methods, cover crops are making a comeback. Moreover, cover cropping is just as effective in home gardens as it is on vast tracts of land.
Getting Started Technically speaking, cover crops can be grown during both the warm season and the cool season. But most of us are reluctant to give up space during summer, when many veggies grow big and sprawl. On the other hand, winter edibles often take less room and more of our planting beds lie fallow. Now’s the perfect 26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
time to sow cover crops to rejuvenate the soil. Choose empty vegetable beds and any new areas slated for edibles. If you’re converting lawn or thirsty ornamental landscaping to droughttolerant plantings, prep the soil by sowing a cover crop there, too. For planning purposes, expect to devote your beds to cover crops from now through next spring.
What to Choose Legumes, grasses and cereal grains are traditional coolseason cover crops, while thick-rooted radishes are relatively new to the game. Cool-season legumes include clover, vetch, field peas, alfalfa and bell (fava) beans, and are essential for fixing nitrogen in the soil. Symbiotic Rhizobia bacteria gather within pink nodules on a legume’s roots, grab nitrogen from the air, then add hydrogen to convert the nitrogen into a form that the legume can use. In return, the legume provides carbohydrates to the bacteria. When the legume dies or is turned under, the nitrogen is released and available to other plants. To ensure a good fix, apply a Rhizobia bacteria inoculant before sowing your legumes. Spread the inoculant, either in granular or powdered form, on a thick sheet of paper. Sprinkle the seeds with water or milk, then shake them across the paper to coat them. Sow the seeds immediately—the bacteria are alive and will perish in sunlight. (continued on Page 28)
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EDIBLE GARDEN (continued from Page 26) Grasses and cereal grains, such as annual ryegrass, barley and oats, add fertility and improve soil structure. These grasses and grains may not be as pretty as ornamental equivalents. But their spidery roots dive deep to retrieve nutrients as much as several feet below the surface and to create tunnels that improve drainage and provide passageways for earthworms to easily traverse. Meanwhile, above ground, they inhibit weeds and provide habitat for beneficial insects. Radishes possess a remarkable ability to drill into compacted soil. Daikon radishes (also known as Japanese or forage radishes) grow single, stout taproots, while oilseed radishes are stubby and branched. Unlike other cool-season cover crops, radishes are not turned into the soil at the end of their lives. Instead, they are left in place to shrivel and decompose. The remains add biomass to the bed, while the resulting labyrinth of underground channels improves drainage and tilth. However, be warned that those decaying roots smell like rotten eggs— especially during warmer weather.
A closeup of pink clover.
you’re planting legumes, and scatter the seed at the rate noted on the packet. Rake in the seed to the recommended depth, then gently water. Add a thin mulch of straw, finely shredded leaves, wellaged compost or topper, then water again. Keep the soil moist until seedlings have poked their heads through the soil and produced their first sets of leaves, which should be within a few weeks. Reduce irrigation to once a week to 10 days or longer. Stop completely if the rain begins. In general, cover crops need more water early to become established, and again when temperatures warm up in spring.
When to Call It
Detailed view of clover (trifolium) cultivated as a green compost.
How to Sow and Grow Cover crops are sown relatively thickly from seed, rather than grown from transplants. Broadcast the seed in September or early October while the soil is still warm. Wait too long, and your crop may not germinate well or be as vigorous heading into winter. Pull any weeds, rough up the soil with a stiff rake, pulverize any dirt clods with the back of a shovel, apply an inoculant if 28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
While tillage radishes are left in the ground to decompose, you’ll need to chop down and work the remains of legumes, grasses and cereal grains into the earth. The knock-down is typically four to six months from sowing, so likely to be in March or April. However, pay attention to the crops’ maturity. It’s critical that the plants have begun flowering, yet their roots are still plump and pliable. During my first go-round with fava beans, I mistakenly let the plants flower, set seed, then begin to wither. Lo and behold, the roots were so thick, fibrous and woody that I had to yank them out. It was impossible to cut them up and leave them in the soil to decompose within any reasonable time period. Instead, at the optimal moment, mow down, weed whack or trim the foliage to the ground, then hack it into pieces no more than 2 to 3 inches long. Let the bits dry out for a week or two, then till them into the soil. Wait another three to six weeks, and you should be able to plant new vegetable seeds or seedlings, just in time for your summer garden. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com
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A Brilliant Solution Blending Margerum M5 by Laura Sanchez P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y C A R O L E T O PA L I A N
ooking is a creative puzzle. Give five chefs a box of identical ingredients and they will create five very different dishes. While one highlights the earthy interplay of allium and potato, another may assemble the same pieces to celebrate textural intrigue or aromatics. There are endless variations and combinations. In this way, every dish is a creative conundrum. Winemakers fit together the pieces of a fluid jigsaw puzzle in a similar fashion as they formulate wine blends. They combine several wines with unique attributes to create complexity and elevate the wine’s intrinsic value. Like problem-solving, blending requires both skill and intelligence. Winemakers make wine in small lots (often in barrels) and combine these lots as separate ingredients. Sometimes they comingle different varieties of grapes such as Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Other times they mix the same grape variety from different vineyards or even wines from the same location that have aged in different barrels with unique flavor profiles. The challenge lies in finding the ideal ratio of the various components so that they integrate seamlessly while each contributing their individual nuances. Doug Margerum of Margerum Wine Co. and the Wine Cask Restaurant has blended wines for over 30 years. His iconic Chateauneuf-du-Pape-style blend, M5, is a confluence of five grape varieties—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise. Each year he works with 28 different ingredients: wines from different vineyard sources, harvest dates and barrels. And he finds the optimal combination of these wines—the best solution to the puzzle. Earlier this year Margerum invited four of Santa Barbara’s 30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
top sommeliers to experiment with a few of the components of his M5 blend to gain their insight and let them experience his process first-hand. Sommeliers (somms for short) are brilliant at evaluating wines, often deconstructing wine’s components as they taste. To put one together would be a reversal of sorts for Mike Trupiano of the Bacara Resort, Eric Vanderwerff of Birnam Wood, Eric Hanson of Bouchon and Branden Bidwell of The Wine Cask. “It’ll be interesting to observe their approaches. Now they’ll know my struggle,” Margerum said with a laugh. “It’s going to be like watching food critics cook.” As Margerum outlined each vineyard source and unique characteristic, the four gentlemen smelled and tasted the components and scribbled descriptions. Grenache, he explained, contributes aromatics and juiciness. While the fruit from Colson Canyon has red raspberry fruit and a leathery, savage quality, the Grenache from Alamo Creek in San Luis Obispo contributes candied fruit flavors and bubble gum aromatics. Syrah contributes dark tones, power and tannins. The cool-climate Syrah, sourced from John Sebastiano Vineyard, adds intensity and white pepper spiciness, while the Syrah from Black Oak Vineyard in Los Alamos adds blacktoned fruit, tannins and body. The Mourvèdre, Counoise and Cinsault add earthiness and subtle facets of flavor that swirl just below the threshold of perception. “Cinsault is like the nutmeg in a gratin,” Margerum said. “Too much of it ruins the flavor but a little adds complexity and intrigue.”
Armed with graduated cylinders and beakers of garnet-colored wine, the sommeliers set out to craft their own blends. They began measuring and pouring with maniacal glee. “Hey, don’t Bogart all of the Colson Canyon!” They joked and jostled one another. “He said ‘Grenachey’! That’s a lot of Syrah, my friend!” Winemakers can easily develop a cellar palate, Margerum explained. They can get accustomed to a particular flavor profile. It was refreshing for him to gain outside perspective and see what others would craft with same ingredients. “Here’s how I put the blend together,” Margerum said as the sommeliers measured and poured. “It’s a Grenache-based wine. But I have very limited amounts of Counoise, Cinsault and Mourvedre so I begin with those small pieces to get the ratios finely tuned. Then I add in the Grenache and Syrah.” Once they were finished, Margerum set out decanters of each blend, marked with a number. The somms tasted the wines blind to determine the best, most harmonious combination. Blend #3, Eric Vanderwerff ’s wine, was a standout winner with its perfectly balanced dark-toned fruit and tannic structure. Blend #2, Branden Bidwell’s wine, earned second place with its pretty aromatics and complexity. It was an intellectual and sensory challenge, the sommeliers agreed, and one that revealed that while blending may be subjective, there is always a combination that works better than others. “I think there is a right answer,” Margerum said with a smile. “Each year it seems to magically come together in a blend that resonates.” EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 31
Eric Vanderwerff of Birnam Wood.
Mike Trupiano of the Bacara Resort.
We had an opportunity to taste the final 2013 M5 blend a few months later. Its plum and rose petal aromatics were interlaced with savory undertones. On the palate, berry flavors mingled with dark-toned cocoa, black olive and licorice. It was taut and complex. “51% Grenache, 32% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 4% Counoise and 1% Cinsault,” he said, reading from his winesmudged production sheet. And true to form, Margerum’s blend is elegant and nuanced, with each succulent puzzle piece in place. Laura Sanchez is a Santa Barbara–based wine writer whose work appears in an array of print and online publications. Laura@Nectar-Media.com.
Doug Margerum at work.
32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Enjoying the final blend.
Branden Bidwell of The Wine Cask.
Eric Hanson of Bouchon.
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Returning Veterans Turn to Farming Ground Operations: Battlefields to Farmfields by Janice Cook Knight
COLIN ARCHIPLE Y
rank Golbeck of granddad’s mead, they Oceanside makes enjoyed its unusual mead. What is flavor, which he noted mead, you ask? Mead tasted like sunshine and is wine fermented with flowers in a bottle. honey instead of grapes. He started making The oldest fermented batches of mead during beverage in the world, this time. mead predates wine by After graduation, perhaps a few thousand Frank signed on for years. four years as an officer The 20-something in the Navy, where he Golbeck and his worked as a surface partners at Golden warfare officer and did From the film Ground Operations, an unknown soldier in Iraq. Coast Mead, Praveen some development. Ramineni and Joe Colangelo, are reviving an ancient tradition, He was stationed all over the world, including Central America but they are applying some fresh techniques that make their and Kuwait. But eventually Frank found himself frustrated by his mead unique. Their meads are dryer than the typical dessert work in the Navy. A well-placed question from Theresa: “If you meads that are more common, and Golden Coast meads had all of the time, money and energy in the world, what would celebrate the particular flavor of each honey variety they use, as you do with your life?” He answered that he would like to make well as the flavor of aging in oak. mead and share it with people. Frank Golbeck planned on someday going into farming. Eventually Frank was able to transition out of the Navy. His grandfather owned Los Rios Rancho, an apple ranch in Oak With his future partners (Joe is also a veteran who served in Glen, San Bernardino County, and Frank helped out there as a Afghanistan) they developed a business plan. With help from boy. His granddad made fruit wine, and he also made mead. Kickstarter.com, Golden Coast Mead opened for business in 2011. They have been sourcing honey from California and have Fast forward to September 11, 2001. Frank was a junior in now started keeping some of their own bees. Helping to support high school when the 9/11 attacks occurred, and he was moved bee farming is a part of their mission. to understand the root causes of that event. During his senior year Frank became involved in ROTC programs and visited a Frank is not the only veteran to turn to farming and food relative in the Army, an officer who had worked on the strategic production. There is a movement afoot in our country: a nonarms agreement. He saw the possibility of doing work in the profit called the Farmer Veteran Coalition is helping veterans military that contributed to peace and stability. transition into farming. Some, like Frank, already had a career in farming on their radar; for others, it is a fit that is a At Berkeley Frank studied international development and also met his future wife, Theresa. Sampling a bottle of his happy surprise. 34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 35
TAYLOR ABEEL DUL ANIE ELLIS
Frank Golbeck started Golden Coast Mead after serving in the US Navy.
DUL ANIE ELLIS
From the film Ground Operations, Bridget Ruiz, US Navy (fmr).
From the film Ground Operations, Phil Northcutt, USMC (fmr). Below: Cory, Veterans Sustainable Agriculture Training (VSAT).
Why farming and veterans? According to the USDA, 20% of young veterans are unemployed, and 45% of armed services personnel come from rural America. Many of the skills emphasized in military training, such as leadership, strategic thinking, the ability to endure intense and long working hours and teamwork are also applicable to farming. There are 800,000 unemployed vets in our country and a shortage of young farmers. The average age for farmers is currently about 58 years. From the 1980s onward, there has been a steep drop-off in young people entering farming. Now there are more young farmers starting out, but there is a long way to go to catch up to the number of farmers leaving the profession due to age and retirement. An important documentary film illustrates the exciting possibilities for veterans entering the farming community. Ground Operations: Battlefields to Farmfields had a showing at the Edible Conference here in Santa Barbara in early 2013. Afterwards, several of us were so inspired that we bought copies of the film to share with friends, and Fairview Gardens Farm in Goleta sponsored another showing in late summer of that same year. I’m happy to say that Ground Operations will be playing to a larger audience in November at the Santa Barbara Library, sponsored by the Santa Barbara Permaculture Network. I love the title of the film for its play on words—ground operations being, of course, a reference to military strategy on the ground, but in this case it also indicates working the soil. The movie, directed by filmmaker Dulanie Ellis of Ojai, portrays the stories of American veterans, both men and women, who have become farmers. What also cannot be overlooked are the healing benefits for vets who turn to farming for their careers. One vet in the film says, “When working with living things, you become a nurturer instead of a destroyer.” Farmer-veterans also see their work as a way of supporting our national food security system. For Frank Golbeck, the delight he and his partners take in creating a delicious product that others can enjoy expresses gratitude for life, and a way of giving back. Janice Cook Knight is the author of Follow Your Heart’s Vegetarian Soup Cookbook and The Follow Your Heart Cookbook: Recipes from the Vegetarian Restaurant. She has taught cooking for over 25 years and currently teaches a cookbook-writing workshop. She lives in Santa Barbara with her family. JaniceCookKnight.com
Learn More Showing: Ground Operations: Battlefields to Farmfields, Sunday, November 9, at 7pm at the Faulkner Gallery, Santa Barbara Library. Admission: $10. Sponsored by the Santa Barbara Permaculture Network and Edible Santa Barbara.
DUL ANIE ELLIS
For more information on the film, and on programs for veteran-farmers, go to GroundOperations.net, FarmVetCo.org and www.Outreach.USDA.gov/veterans.htm
36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Golden Coast Meads are available primarily in San Diego County, though they will be more widely distributed soon. Check at Whole Foods in Santa Barbara or order from GoldenCoastMead.com.
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seasoned by the sea
Capturing Santa Barbara’s Essence in a Glass of Beer by Laura Sanchez PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN COLLIN
38 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Kevin Pratt, head brewer at Santa Barbara Brewing Company.
ater is one of nature’s most essential compounds. Two tiny hydrogen atoms hand-in-hand with oxygen form a molecule vital for all life. In solid, vapor or liquid form, it covers 70% of the planet. And each droplet reflects the specific place of its origin. Every water source has a unique chemical profile—a fluid fingerprint of sorts. As it flows over rocks and earth, water gathers minerals and trace ions like chloride, sulfate, sodium and magnesium. This unique assortment of minerals lends it a flavor particular to its geographical surroundings. If soils are calcareous, water collects calcium. If they are iron-rich, it accumulates iron. And when water is added to other consumables, these minerals directly influence flavor. Beer is 90% water. Water’s ions and minerals naturally season it with sweetness, bitterness, richness and texture. They also affect the pH and the way enzymes break down the starches in grain during the fermentation process. Not surprisingly, beer made with local water tastes like the place that it’s from.
“Water has historically been the one ingredient that brewers couldn’t import. Because of this, it really defined beer styles,” explained Kevin Pratt, head brewer at Santa Barbara Brewing Co. In fact, two cities in England, Burton-on-Trent and London, made very different beer styles—India Pale Ale and Porter— simply because of the minerals in their water. “Beer is best drunk local, close to the source. For a long time, if you wanted a particular beer, you had to travel to the place where it was made. We’re getting back to that in America—really trying to understand the essence of an area and put that in beer. It’s the new way of brewing. Beer can capture a sense of place.” Santa Barbara Brewing Co. uses water as it comes out of the tap. Like many seaside communities, our water is very hard with high mineral levels. These minerals can supply yeast with nutrients and enhance flavors. “We run it through a charcoal filter but that’s really it,” Kevin said. “We’ve adapted our beer recipes to work with the local water’s mineral content because we want our beer to taste like Santa Barbara.” EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 39
Collecting ocean water, testing it for impurities and measuring the salinity.
The beer’s name AmiGose del Mar (“friends of the ocean”) alludes to this partnership as well as the small conservation efforts that each of us can make to protect the future of our water and our beer. AmiGose del Mar “What exactly does Santa Barbara taste like?” Kevin and I wondered one afternoon over a pint. If you were to translate the geography to liquid, what scents would it breathe? What flavors would capture Santa Barbara’s essence? As we contemplated the mountains and ocean influence, Kevin suggested a salt-enhanced beer with a wine-like flavor. “We’re between wine country and the ocean,” he said, “so why not?” It seemed like the perfect way to portray Santa Barbara. So we decided to brew a Gose-style beer, seasoned with water from the Pacific Ocean. Author Laura Sanchez stirring the mash.
Gose (pronounced GOSE-uh) is a tart, refreshingly complex beer style originally produced in Goslar, Germany. Nearby salt and mineral mines lend the local river and ground water high sodium levels. As a result, the local beer tastes slightly salty, balanced by lemony acidity and delicate effervescence. It was the perfect fluid medium to express Santa Barbara’s earthy elegance and sunny, seaside charm. So on a cool June morning Kevin and I waded into the foaming breakers off of Padaro Beach with buckets. We gathered 10 gallons of sea water and carefully eliminated the sea weed and sand. Later, we transported the saltwater to the brewery and tested it for impurities. Our results showed that it was clean and petroleum-free. Adding hops to the wort.
40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
The following morning we began brewing at 4:30am. Santa Barbara Brewing Co. glowed in the crepuscular light, emanating oatmealy steam and lively music. Assistant brewer Gavin Cook lined up our ingredients—tubs of grain—and outlined our process while I familiarized myself with the equipment. As a novice home brewer, working on commercial equipment meant a dramatic change of scale. Rather than grams and ounces of ingredients, we were working with pounds. Instead of a pot on the stove, we were boiling in a tank-sized kettle. It was like cooking for 300 when you’re accustomed to dinner for two. Following a recipe that Kevin developed, we dumped heaping bucketfuls of grain into the copper masher—375 pounds of white wheat, some Vienna malt and pale malt as well as some rice hulls for natural filtration. We added water and allowed the mash to convert the grain’s starches to sugars that the yeast could consume as the beer fermented. Salt water can inhibit the enzymes needed for this conversion so we waited until all of the ingredients were well-incorporated before adding in one bucketful— just enough to make it salt-tinged. For complexity we spiced it with some black pepper and coriander seeds. Then we let it all boil together to concentrate the flavors. As the wort chilled, we tasted the sweet/salty liquid and mixed it with Scotch for a traditional brewer’s toast. It was time to get the microbial party started so we added a German lager yeast. Soon the wort began to bubble. It was alive and exhaling carbon dioxide as it fermented for the next 15 days. When we finally tasted our brew, it was refreshing and complex with lemony tartness, layered minerality and a kiss of sea salt.
Wort boiling in the kettle.
White wheat awaiting its moment.
As it warmed in the glass, it smelled vaguely of honeycomb and orange blossoms. It encapsulated summer in Santa Barbara— the sun and salt air. We grinned our faces off.
Clean Water As I correlated the mineral flavors in my sip of beer with the ocean water my eyes widened in astonishment. I could taste the palate-rounding effects of sodium molecules. I detected the stoney presence of minerals and the textures of tiny ions. It was illuminating. Suddenly I understood every brewer’s obsession with water. Beer’s transparency reveals each of water’s fluid features, making clean water essential.
Adding salt water.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 41
Brewer Kevin Pratt doing some housekeeping.
Kevin explained that, under the Safe Drinking Water Act, water has to be purified before it enters public drinking systems. Chemicals are added to kill microbes, which brewers have to filter out. And when contaminants are removed, so are minerals integral to flavor. Source water that requires less treatment means that brewers have to do less to AmiGose del Mar (‘friends of the ocean‘). adjust water. In Santa Barbara County, chemicals from offshore oil drilling, pesticides and stormwater runoff present threats to our water quality. So I spoke to the Environmental Defense Center about these issues and their efforts to protect local water quality through legal channels.
42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
“Water overlaps all facets of our work, from coastal and ocean resources management to human and environmental health, and open space and wildlife preservation,” explains staff attorney Maggie Hall. “Offshore fracking and acidizing, as well as the discharge of harmful chemicals from industrial sources are of particular concern.” Along with their education and advocacy efforts, the public interest environmental law firm works to establish legal protections and accountability standards with government and individual companies. In addition, their partner groups like Santa Barbara ChannelKeeper continually sample and report on water quality. After the release of our salt-tinged beer, Santa Barbara Brewing Co. offered to donate a keg of it to the Environmental Defense Center’s fund-raising events. The beer’s name AmiGose del Mar (“friends of the ocean”) alludes to this partnership as well as the small conservation efforts that each of us can make to protect the future of our water and our beer. Besides sculpting the folds and foothills of our geography, water defines Santa Barbara. It inspires how we live and play. It determines our culture and influences our tastes. And as it quenches our thirst, it fills us with wonder. For every droplet is a prismatic little package that contains the essence of our area. We drink it in. Laura Sanchez is a Santa Barbara-based writer with a penchant for all things delicious. Her work appears in a variety of print and online publications. Laura@Nectar-Media.com
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44 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
by Carol Penn-Romine
STE VEN BROWN
The symbol for many, s I descend into the Buddhists and Hindus in sunken garden on a particular, of purity, eternal terra-cotta pathway life and the ability to rise leading to the lotus pool, I’m to great heights from lowly transported to a world where I’d circumstances, the lotus is a be completely unsurprised if a member of the rhizome clan and knee-high chap with pointy ears, the classier cousin of such robust a cherry nose and a heliumspecimens as Bermuda grass and balloon voice popped out from kudzu. Lotus seeds estimated under an enormous leaf and to be as old as 1,300 years offered me a lotus petal filled have been discovered in China, with sweetest ambrosia. Santa germinated and grown into new Barbara’s Lotusland is just that plants. How’s that for resilience? otherworldly. For centuries lotus grew But I’m not here to eat, primarily in Egypt and although feasting my eyes on throughout Asia and was used the lotusscape, I see munching for both food and non-food prospects all around: Giant lotus purposes. Then Santa Barbara leaves in which I could wrap horticultural superstar Ralph sticky rice and chicken or fish Stevens introduced it to the area before steaming it, to impart a in the late 1800s, planting it at subtle, earthy sweetness. Tiny showplaces including Lotusland, new leaves I could cook up like Franceschi Park, the Santa greens. Seedpods that look so Barbara Biltmore and Casa del much like showerheads that in Herrero, and setting the stage the Thai language they use the After flowering the lotus seedpod resembles a showerhead. for generations of Southern same expression, fak bua, for Californians to be enchanted by its beauty. both — pods filled with seeds I could eat fresh or cook or purée But it’s high time we considered other ways to enjoy this to make an exquisite paste. Buried deep within the muck below magnificent perennial, for it’s packed with protein, vitamin C are starchy tubers, which I could cut up and bake or stir-fry or and minerals. Whether or not you buy into the stories of its make into a thick soup or hearty beverage. curative and restorative powers, it is nonetheless a versatile plant, Then there are the lotus blossoms themselves, whose petals and just about every part is edible. I could pluck, fill with sweet bean or lotus paste, batter and fry. Most food from the lotus comes from the rhizome (you may And their stems, which I could slice and toss into a salad. And also see it called the root), a long, cylindrical tuber with a crisp, their stamens, from which I could brew tea. Oh, the possibilities! crunchy texture reminiscent of jicama and water chestnut. Unlike It’s easy to associate the lotus with the dubious reputation it these two, though, lotus must be cooked first. While it retains received in Homer’s Odyssey and Tennyson’s “The Lotos-Eaters,” that texture for a while, if you give it an extra long cooking it will but the stories of those munchers as mere hordes of druggedeventually break down and become starchy and glutinous, which out slackers are just that—stories. The lotus is an amazing, makes it a good choice for soup to soothe an angry tum. It can be multipurpose plant that demands appreciation as much for its used in stir-fries, soups, stews and salads, and even for snacking. culinary potential as for its stunning beauty. The root has hollow chambers running through it, so when you cut it into slices you get pretty, lacy rounds that make every dish Opposite: The enormous blossoms of the lotus rise up out of the water on look extra special. long stems at Lotusland in Montecito. EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 45
STE VEN BROWN
Although the lotus blooms during the summer, the tasty rhizomes are harvested in the fall.
The thin exterior is bitter, so carve it away with a vegetable peeler. Once the flesh has been exposed to air it will begin to oxidize and turn dark, just like potatoes, apples and artichokes do. (It won’t hurt you to eat oxidized food—it’s just not very pretty.) Have a bowl of cold water mixed with a splash of white vinegar sitting next to the cutting board—that’s called acidulated water in chef talk—and toss the slices into the bowl as you work. Lotus has a delicate flavor that plays well with most any seasonings you want to use. You’re not limited to Asian ingredients, so do some experimenting and see what you like. As for the seeds, when they’re fresh from the pod they’re tender and taste like green peas. Once you’ve simmered the dried ones for about 30 minutes, they’ll have myriad uses, both savory and sweet. Drain and blot the rehydrated seeds, and toss them into a pan over medium-high heat with a bit of oil (the type depends on the influence you want). Roll them around until they begin taking on some color. They’ll start to sing or make a whistling sound, a veritable lotus chorus. It’s one of those rare instances when you don’t sing for your supper, but your supper sings to you! Blot the roasted seeds on a paper towel and sprinkle with seasoning—Cajun, Italian, Asian, Mexican or a blend of your own concoction. These are good for snacking or for garnishing a salad or stir-fry. The seeds also work well in sweets and can be candied whole or puréed for filling pastries such as Chinese mooncakes. The flower is perched atop a fibrous hollow stem that looks like a chambered drinking straw. When the stem is cut into slices, the fibers aren’t noticeable, but take a bite (you’ll find jars of brined lotus stems or “rootlets” in Asian markets), and as you 46 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
pull it away from your mouth you’ll see tiny filaments extending between the stem and your teeth. These fine fibers are used to create a variety of products, from weaving the beautiful saffron wraps that clothe Buddha statues all over Southeast Asia to making wicks for oil-burning lamps. Summer is lotus blossom time. But once the flowers have finished putting on their show, they die back, and the plant concentrates its starch in the rhizomes. So autumn is the time to find them either fresh in the store or buried in your own water garden. And you’re thinking about trying your hand at growing them, right? Aside from the lotus being one of the most glorious flowers you’ve ever seen, another good reason to grow them yourself is that it’s difficult to find the leaves and flowers in Asian markets, even when they’re in season. If you have your own supply growing at home, you have the freedom to be creative. Lotus fits in perfectly with our California fusion sensibility and our penchant for subbing out one ingredient for another we like better— or that we have growing in our yard or peeking out of the latest CSA box. And maybe there’s something to those stories about its healthful properties. The woman who sells prepared Korean foods at my local farmers market tells me about the benefits of the various foods I pile into my basket each week. “Lotus is a cooling food,” she stresses every time. I’m not sure whether she repeats this because she sells to so many people that we’re all a blur, or because she takes one look at me and is convinced that I need cooling, and that I need frequent reminding of it. No matter. Those crunchy marinated lotus slices are flavorful and refreshing, and that’s cool enough for me.
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ERIN FEINBL AT T
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Slices of lotus rhizome—sometimes called the root—are easy to bake, season and serve as an appetizer or dipper. Lotus rhizome, either fresh or dried Oil, your choice Sea salt, seasoned salt or various spices, your choice Bowl of water White vinegar, as needed
Preheat oven to 350°. If you’re using fresh lotus rhizome, peel it and, using either a very sharp knife or a mandoline, slice into 1 ⁄16 - to 1 ⁄ 8 -inch slices. As you work, place the slices in a bowl of cool water with a bit of vinegar stirred in.
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If you’re using dried lotus rhizome, soak it for about 3 hours in a bowl of water to which you’ve added a bit of vinegar. Some pieces may need more time, so let your fingertips be your guide. When the pieces are soft and feel hydrated, they’re good to go. Drain and blot pieces well before slicing and placing in vinegar water. When all the slices are cut, drain and blot excess water. Arrange on a rack set over a baking sheet, brush with oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake for about 20 minutes, until pieces are dry and crispy. When they’ve cooled, they’re ready for snacking. Alternately, you can angle the knife (or the rhizome as you cut it on the mandoline) to make longer slices that are good for dipping. EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 47
ERIN FEINBL AT T
Lotus Seed Candy Mooncakes filled with lotus seed paste are wonderful but can be overpowering— too much of a good thing. Here’s a way to enjoy the richness of lotus paste without overdosing. This recipe is easy to tweak, and you can add your favorite spices to create a candy that is uniquely your own. Makes about 40 grape-sized pieces 1 (5-ounce) package dried lotus seeds 1 cup light brown sugar 1
⁄ 2 cup water
⁄ 4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons pure sesame oil (not sesame-flavored oil) Zest of 1 lime 10 candied ginger slices, cut into quarters 1
⁄ 2 cup sesame seeds, toasted
Rinse dried lotus seeds and pour into a medium-sized pan with enough water to cover the seeds generously. Simmer for about an hour, or until seeds are fork-tender. Drain. When seeds are cool enough to handle, pop each one open and remove the green sprout inside (not all will have them, but they’re bitter and not what we want in our candy). Process seeds in a food processor or blender until they’re a crumbly purée. Combine sugar and water in the pan you used to cook the seeds. Turn heat to medium and stir until sugar dissolves. Stir in the cayenne pepper, and then add the seed purée. Stir until purée has absorbed the syrup, and then turn the heat up to medium-high and cook, stirring, until most of the water has evaporated, about 5 minutes or more. The sweetened purée should be dry but not scorched, lowering the heat if necessary. Let cool a bit and then pour back into the food processor or blender, and add the two oils and lime zest. Process until you have a smooth paste. 48 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Take a pinch of the purée and cover each piece of candied ginger, rolling it between your palms to make grape-sized candies. Roll each one in the toasted sesame seeds, and then roll between your palms again, so the seeds adhere. These candies don’t require refrigeration, but they’ll hold their shape better if they’re kept cool in an airtight container. Carol Penn-Romine is a 2014 recipient of Les Dames d’Escoffier’s M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing. Her work has appeared in Best Food Writing 2013, Leite’s Culinaria, Gastronomica, Cornbread Nation IV: The Best of Southern Food Writing, Christian Science Monitor and several magazines in the Edible Communities family. You can read about her culinary adventures at HungryPassport.com.
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Santa Maria Agriculture and Legacy In Ontiveros,Veritas by Jaime Lewis P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y C A R O L E T O PA L I A N
Opposite and above: James Ontiveros checking grapes at his vineyard in Santa Maria.
50 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
is day job might pay the bills, but Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard is at the pulsating heart of James Ontiveros’ life and history. After all, it’s no average bit of land. For James, Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard represents nine generations’ blood, sweat, tears and steadfast faith in the potential of Santa Maria agriculture. While his heritage in California is traceable to the year 1781, James’ relationship to Santa Maria began eight generations ago with Juan Pacifico Ontiveros. In 1856 Juan Pacifico drove 1,200 head of cattle north from Orange County to claim from the Mexican government an outstanding grant of 8,900 acres on the northern edge of Santa Barbara County. Called Rancho Tepusquet, his prize included the crossing of the Sisquoc and Cuyama Rivers—highly desirable land for raising livestock and farming. As he arrived and settled into the peaceful, protected valley, he called it Santa Maria in gratitude for the blessings of sun, soil and water. Nearby, Juan Pacifico built a beautiful two-story adobe for his family, where he prospered with horses, cattle, sheep, grains and wine grapes. But despite his success, over the course of the next several generations Juan Pacifico’s 8,900 acres were sold off in pieces until nothing remained in the Ontiveros name—not even the adobe. The revered Bien Nacido Vineyard would eventually be planted around the original Ontiveros home, which was owned for a while by Allan Hancock, then bought by the Miller family, who own it today. The opportunity to reclaim something of the past came in 1976, when James’ parents, Mark and Louise Ontiveros, received the offer to leaseoption a ranch on Dominion Road occupying land overlooking Rancho Tepusquet. It took 10 years of hourly wages from working on oil rigs for Mark and Louise to buy the ranch and take back just a view of what their forebears had lost. Ironically, those same oil rigs also studded the landscape of this new property, the only parcel near the original Rancho Tepusquet grant that the family could afford.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 51
“Santa Maria is one of the most diverse agricultural communities on the planet, which is both a blessing and a challenge because with diversity comes the difficulty
of marketing.” — James Ontiveros
From Cowboy to Connoisseur From the start, Mark, Louise and James intended to run cattle on the ranch. “I was a cowboy in high school,” James says. “That was my life.” As such, Cal Poly University in San Luis Obispo was an ideal choice, with its famously strong agriculture and animal science programs. But during his first year, James embarked on a fateful camping trip that would find him sipping a 1992 Lane Tanner Pinot Noir, his eyes opened and his palate forever changed. While his focus of study didn’t budge too far— dual majors in Crop Science and Fruit Science — his life trajectory changed completely. He was going to plant a vineyard and make wine at Rancho Ontiveros. “As a parent, I can’t imagine my 20-year-old child wanting to plant a vineyard, but that’s exactly what I wanted,” says James, who planted several acres of vines with his own two hands after class each day. And, as if the whole idea wasn’t harebrained enough, he chose to plant the vineyard with a persnickety and oft-maligned varietal: Pinot Noir. “Planting Pinot was not the conventional wisdom of the time,” he says. “Chardonnay was the grape to grow. But that’s the beauty of Santa Maria: Just about everything thrives here.”
52 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Whether he knew that or not at 20 years old, it was certainly true of his Pinot Noir. Today, the eight-acre Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard is one of the most sought-after Pinot Noir vineyards for fruit that is expertly — obsessively — farmed. James sources entirely from Rancho Ontiveros for his Native 9 Wine, a cult classic on the Pinot Noir scene; and partially for his joint label, Alta Maria Vineyards, which he cofounded with longtime friend and winemaker Paul Wilkins. Additionally, James sells to a handful of winemakers who appreciate the depth and complexity of his fruit. For indeed, due to its situation and the way it’s farmed (organic, small berries, compact vines, low yields), Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard provides some of the darkest, most nuanced and expressive Pinot Noir on the market today. In 2012, James entered into a long-term lease of Rancho Viñedo Vineyard — across the street from Bien Nacido— for estate bottlings of Alta Maria Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Like its famous neighbor, Rancho Viñedo was planted in 1973 and once belonged to the Rancho Tepusquet grant, fulfilling James’ longstanding desire for old Ontiveros land. Still, for all his satisfaction in watching his family’s story come full circle and his personal dreams flesh out, owning vineyards remains risky.
“Do you know what the payoff is for a vineyard like this?” he asks, gesturing to Rancho Ontiveros. “Sixteen years. And that’s with free land, no employees and just me managing the whole operation.” Hence his “day job”— the agricultural investment company he started with third-generation wine broker Matt Turrentine. Called Grapevine Capital Partners, the company has quickly become a top choice for designing large vineyard plantings and managing investment funds. “Working with some of these investments puts my tiny vineyard in perspective,” he says, “but at the end of the day, it’s still home.”
Land of Quiet Opportunity James looks across the valley, pointing to different color blocks in the tapestry of the view. “Right there is the largest planting of avocado trees in California. And there: citrus, strawberries, cane berries, gladiolus, cattle,” he says. “Santa Maria is one of the most diverse agricultural communities on the planet, which is both a blessing and a challenge because with diversity comes the difficulty of marketing.” “Napa is a great example,” he continues. “When you think of Napa, you think of wine. Their profitability and cohesion come, in part, from focusing on one thing and doing it well. Santa Maria, on the other hand, does almost too many things well.” Communicating a message of quality and diversity in Santa Maria is clearly a personal mission of James’. But that’s not to say he wants the valley flooded with new money, boutique hotels or haute couture. “Santa Maria will never go out of style because it was never in style,” James quips. “This town is under absolutely zero pretense, which is off-putting for some. But for those of us who live here, it’s what makes the place so great.” For those who can appreciate Santa Maria’s quirks, says Chuck Furuya, master sommelier and wine director for Hawaii’s DK Restaurant Group, a world of incredible wines awaits. “I try not to get wrapped up in fashions and trends, which is why I absolutely believe in Santa Maria wines,” Chuck says from his office in Hawaii. “It has the greatest potential of any winegrowing region I know for making worldly, naturally balanced wines that epitomize elegance, but it’s still very mom-and-pop. Santa Maria families have been farming there for a long time, so it’s not experimental. They’re committed to their land in a way you don’t see elsewhere.” Along Santa Maria Valley’s Foxen Wine Trail, a man best known for his political career is getting in on the wine scene. Abel Maldonado is no stranger to this region’s agriculture; his humble beginnings include working in Santa Maria’s strawberry fields alongside his immigrant parents. Today, after many years in public office, Abel is once again in the field, launching a new wine project with his daughter, Erika, called
A view of the Santa Maria Valley.
Runway Vineyards. Their goal is to release the wines and then build a tasting room—not just for their own benefit, but for that of their fellow producers, too. “Santa Maria is different than other places,” he says. “For growing fruits, vegetables and grapes, and for involvement in the community, we get an A+. For marketing the area, we get just a passing grade. But if we help each other, we all benefit.” Another Santa Maria winemaker, Gary Burk, is responsible for the highly regarded Costa d’Oro wine label. His family has farmed in Santa Maria for decades. “People here are connected to the earth,” he says. “They’ve typically been here a long time, so they have a great understanding of the area. It’s nostalgic in that way. They’re not flashy; they’re just comfortable with who they are and what they do.” Gary concurs that Santa Maria is not the darling of California’s wine regions. “I once read a wine critic’s review of California’s AVAs [American Viticulture Areas] who said Santa Maria is the least attractive of the bunch,” he laughs. “It doesn’t have the same rolling hills and oak trees you’ll find just a few minutes north or south. It’s more scrub brush with
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 53
farmland at the bottom. I guess I could have taken that review as an insult, but, in a way, I found it very comforting—maybe even promising.”
Poetic Justice When the Ontiveros family bought Rancho Ontiveros in 1986, the land was stripped bare and well-nigh tapped. Over 100 oil rigs danced across the property’s 312 acres. The mineral rights had long since been sold, and water was sparse. “It is the poetic weirdness of life that this place was just right for vines,” James says. “Who would ever have guessed? But now, it’s transformed.” The land isn’t the only thing transformed. James and his family have, in a sense, been reborn through the Rancho Ontiveros story—a story that continues in the lives of James’ and his wife, Kristen’s, new twin babies, Lauren and Zane. If Santa Maria agriculture continues to inspire its advocates the way it has since Juan Pacifico Ontiveros’ day, those twins just might establish the Native 10 wine label. But, if they’re lucky, the place will remain as abundant and without pretense as it ever was. Above: Handcrafted nails passed down through the Ontiveros family were the inspiration for the logo, pictured in the wine bottles to the right. Below: James pours a glass of wine in the Alta Maria tasting room.
54 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Jaime Lewis is a sommelier whose work has been published in numerous publications including Central Coast Magazine, Edible SLO and Wine Country This Month. She lives in San Luis Obispo.
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Hurray for the Orange, Red and Gold The Season for Persimmons by Janice Cook Knight PHOTOGRAPHY BY NELL CAMPBELL
n summer, persimmon trees are in disguise, shrouded in shiny green leaves, their dull green fruits nearly hidden. Then October comes, and persimmons take you by surprise. What is that tree, you wonder, with the bright gold and red leaves? Bright trees are not a dime a dozen on the Central Coast. It only gets better: After the leaves drop in November and December, the persimmons reveal sculpted bare limbs hung with pumpkin-colored globes. Persimmons know how to say autumn. My family grew two varieties of persimmon trees in our San Fernando Valley backyard: a Hachiya, which produces large, oblong fruit that must be eaten when very soft (or else the fruit tastes terribly astringent), and the Fuyu, whose fruit is mildly sweet and can be eaten while crisp. The trees enjoy our climate, are easy to grow and, besides their natural beauty in the landscape, their fruit provides ambrosial culinary opportunities. Persimmons grow well all over our state. I think of them as Californian, even though they are native to China, and have been grown for over a thousand years in Japan. Most of the named varieties of persimmon are Japanese. Besides Fuyu and 56 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Hachiya, some other varieties are: Maru; Tsuru no ko and Nishimura Wase (“chocolate” persimmons with brown flesh); and Jiro and Gosho, similar to Fuyu, though Gosho is much larger. All of these persimmons are members of the species Diospyros kaki (diospyros is Greek for “divine fruit”), in the ebony family, known for their dark, hard wood. Most of the “chocolate” varieties must be pollinated to develop a light-brown inner flesh and can be eaten while still crisp. I have a beautiful small Maru tree in my garden. I planted it thinking the fruit could be eaten while crisp, like a Fuyu, and that is sometimes true—but for that to happen the fruit must have been pollinated while it was flowering. It’s nearly impossible to tell if it’s been pollinated until the fruit is cut open—the pollinated fruit will have seeds, and the flesh has streaks of chocolate-brown. Then the fruit is sweet and delicious. If the fruit has not been pollinated, however, the inner flesh will still be orange, and so astringent as to be inedible. In that case it’s better to have waited until the fruit was dead ripe and soft. We just added a beehive to our garden to facilitate better
Peeling the Hachiya persimmons in preparation for making hoshigaki.
pollination, and I am going to add another variety of persimmon tree, the Tsuru no ko, which will also help with pollination. There are hundreds of species of persimmon in the world, and there is such a thing as an American persimmon, Diospyros virginiana. It lives on the East Coast, from Florida up into the Great Lakes, and makes a lovely large tree; the fruits, however are very small, and astringent unless ripe, but said to be incredibly sweet when they are soft. There are persimmons in Mexico and persimmons in central Texas (persimmons that turn black when ripe, and will turn your teeth black when you eat them) and there are persimmons native to India and the Philippines. But to keep life simple, Hachiya and Fuyu are the most common varieties found at our grocery stores and farmers markets. Their relatively large fruit size, pure sweetness and vibrant color has made them a worldwide favorite, to be cultivated wherever climate permits. Persimmons have also managed to remain a seasonal fruit. With so many foods imported from around the world at all times of the year (grapes in February, for example), persimmons are still at the markets only when they are ripe in North America: October, November and into December. Perhaps it is their color that determines this: They do look an awful lot like pumpkins, another strictly seasonal food. I had to learn to love eating persimmons. I thought the Hachiyas were rather gushy when I was young. When fully ripe they are gelatinous and sweet—some people think they are too sweet. Hachiyas are often made into puddings, cakes and cookies. I enjoy them this way, but their flavor gets hidden when combined with flour, spices and other ingredients. Now I love the fruit plain, or mixed into yogurt.
The fruit can be frozen whole, unpeeled, the top sliced off and then eaten like a sorbet, or the fruit can be churned into sorbet or ice cream. The ripe fruit can be cut into chunks, frozen on trays and stored in bags or freezer boxes; the frozen chunks make delicious smoothies or milkshakes. Perhaps my favorite way to eat Hachiya persimmons is dried: In Japan, China, Korea and Vietnam, Hachiya persimmons are dried whole, making a delectable new year’s treat known in Japan as hoshigaki, which means “dried persimmon.” I have been making these for several years and I look forward to it every fall. Fully orange but not yet soft Hachiya persimmons are carefully peeled in October or early November, left whole and hung on strings over bamboo poles. After four or five days, you gently massage the fruit, once every few days, as they dry. They soften as they ripen, but because they’ve been peeled, an outer “skin” forms that keeps the soft part from breaking through, if you massage gently. After a few weeks the persimmons will be massaged into a somewhat flattened state, and a sugary coating will form on the outside. In Japan, this
After the strings are tied to the stems, the persimmons are hung to slowly dry.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 57
In late October I go to Shirley’s house and we pick persimmons using a long-pole picker with a cloth basket. We lay them carefully in baskets, then sit outdoors, where we cut the persimmons from the still-attached wood, leaving a stem long enough to tie a string around. We then peel the persimmons, throwing the peels onto newspaper at our feet. After the fruit is peeled, we tie long strings onto the persimmons, one persimmon at each end of the string to make a counterbalance. I take mine home, and then hang the persimmons over bamboo poles in my dining room, balanced across two chairs. The room is warm and sunny in the autumn and the weather’s usually dry, so it’s a good environment for drying them. After a few days I begin the massaging process. (If the weather is foggy and damp, the hanging persimmons can become moldy, but only one year was this a problem.) I love the Fuyu persimmons too, sliced crisp and eaten like an apple (great with cheese) and sliced or cubed and tossed into salads with fresh greens. Fuyu persimmons can also be dried, by slicing, then dehydrating them. Their texture is different than hoshigaki: more like fruit leather. Several growers sell them at our farmers markets in late fall. One year we hosted a holiday party, and without thinking I had left a plate of still-whole hoshigaki sitting out on the kitchen counter. There were several that had begun to fall off their strings, and rather than store them away, I thought a little further drying would be helpful so I left them near a sunny window. The guests thought they were an offering and helped themselves, eating the persimmons whole! That might not sound strange, but you’ve got to know that hoshigaki are extremely sweet. To serve them, you cut them into thin slivers, meant as an addition to a cheese plate perhaps. The sight of these few guests (there weren’t enough for everyone to eat a whole one) eating the whole sweet thing was amazing, like watching someone eating spoonfuls of sugar. I didn’t stop them, and by the end of the evening the plate was empty. It was a very happy party. ERIN FEINBL AT T
coating is sometimes scraped off and put into tiny bottles and given to newlyweds—so they will have a sweet life together. (Persimmons are also romantic.) Last year I tried another drying method for the Hachiyas. I was out of town for a couple of weeks at the beginning of the massage period, and had read in Sunset magazine that persimmons could be hung to dry without massaging at all. My persimmons therefore received very little massage in 2013. And do you know what? They dried beautifully, and nearly a year later, they are still succulent and sweet. They are more round than flat, though they did not develop their usual sugary coating. Massaging them brings the sugar to the surface. But, the sugar is still inside the persimmons.
The finished hoshigaki have a dry sugary coating.
To make hoshigaki you need good fruit. I get mine from my friend and neighbor Shirley Roby. Shirley’s persimmon tree is estimated to be over 70 years old. It’s a towering beauty nearly 30 feet tall, located on the Riviera. Every year it seems to be loaded with fat, juicy persimmons (although in drought years, like last year, the fruit is smaller). Shirley’s family used to be in the persimmon business. Years ago Santa Barbara was much more agricultural than now, and Shirley’s grandfather A.J. Haverland had a fruit ranch in Goleta: 40 acres at Cathedral Oaks and old San Marcos Road. Her grandfather grew walnuts, lemons, avocados, oranges—and persimmons. About 30 large trees yielded plump Hachiyas each autumn. Shirley recalls helping her mother pack the fruits carefully in sheets of waxed paper, which was placed in boxes filled with shredded paper to protect the persimmons while traveling. The family picked and packed on the weekends, so that on Monday the fruit could be shipped by express train to customers in the East and Midwest, where the large, desirable fruits were a rare treat.
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Janice Cook Knight is the author of Follow Your Heart’s Vegetarian Soup Cookbook and The Follow Your Heart Cookbook: Recipes from the Vegetarian Restaurant. She has taught cooking for over 25 years and currently teaches a cookbook-writing workshop. She lives in Santa Barbara with her family. JaniceCookKnight.com
Learn More I learned to make hoshigaki from Jeff Rieger and Laurence Hauben of Penryn Orchards. They will be hosting a class in Santa Barbara sometime this fall, when the Hachiya persimmons are ready. Contact Laurence at firstname.lastname@example.org. You can buy the succulent finished product from them if you don’t want to make your own: PenrynOrchardSpecialties.com/ Active/buyhoshigaki.html
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Harvesting the Seeds of Knowledge at Fairview Gardens
ERIN FEINBL AT T
by Rachel Hommel
Mark Tollefson, farmer, teacher and executive director at the nonprofit Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens.
ince 1895, Fairview Gardens has stood as a community landmark, a place to quiet the mind, connect with the land and nurture one’s spirit. It is a brisk 7am as I walk along the dewy path to the yurt, a shelter providing a home away from home for many young apprentices. Mark Tollefson, the farm’s executive director, greets me with a smile, a warm cup of coffee and an eagerness to tell his story— a story of his own awakening, the cyclical nature of farming and why people keep coming back to this magical land. Since the 1970s, the farm has allowed eager apprentices to become one with the land, to touch each aspect of the farm. Mark tells me a story of his own time working alongside Mayan farmers in Belize, and how it changed his views of farming. During his time there, traditional farmers would go out into field with their best clothes on and instead of praying to a deity, they would pray to the crop itself (the ultimate deity). He learned from the Mayans how to grow food in a sacred manner, that when planting a seed, a small miracle happens. It became not only about food to nourish oneself physically, but also spiritually. “They were the priests and priestesses of their village and people,” says Mark. “They were doing the most sacred thing they do, why not wear our best clothes?” 60 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
When developing the current apprenticeship program, he knew he wanted applicants to be self-directed, passionate and, most importantly, eager to embrace that same nature connection that he himself witnessed during his time in Belize. “I look for apprentices with some starry-eyed idealism— someone who really has the desire and passion,” says Mark. “Essentially, people who are willing to look at the world in a different way and challenge belief systems.” Learning is centered around hands-on experience in the field, focusing on nature connection and acute observation skills. While tasks may range from seeding to harvesting to pest management, it is always done with intention and awareness of the land. “You can learn the how of farming—we are excited to learn the why,” says Mark. “It’s my firmly held belief that nature will find a balance.” Carissa Hayes, former apprentice, understands and personifies this intellectual dialogue. Her passion for plants and growing food began at the age of 10, growing veggies in her backyard alongside her brother and grandpa, a farmer and fellow green thumb. With her Italian background, fresh food and farmers market trips were part of her daily life.
Nevertheless, it was a sustainable communities class at UCSB might just be that connection we need—a time to slow down and foster a renewed sense of community through food. that really awakened her passion for food systems and community building, setting up her own garden in Isla Vista. “There has been a change in zeitgeist, a countrywide consciousness that’s starting to change,” he says. “People are “I love plants and interacting with them and building starting to take notice of local food, a change in how one relationships with them,” says Carissa. “I slowly wanted to nourishes their body and mind.” know more and more about food. I became a more conscious consumer and wanted to share that with those around me.” Last March, the farm turned into a magical candlelit affair, with Ron True of Arlington Tavern serving guests creative dishes Taking her passions abroad, Carissa traveled to Ghana, all sourced from the farm’s rich bounty. This October, Fairview working in small villages and learning about farming. Her Gardens will once again showcase its harvest with a beautiful next voyage was in Thailand, WOOFing on organic farms and dinner curated by Chef Pink. These culinary adventures further exploring her heart’s passion. Hoping to return to Santa hope to push the edge of agriculture by offering guests an Barbara, it was during this trip she contacted Fairview Gardens opportunity to connect to the land, create community and, about its apprenticeship program. Interviewing over Skype on most importantly, celebrate local food. They are natural places deadline day for applications, she anxiously awaited an answer. for dialogue—for strangers to become friends and friends to Luckily, she got the position and has never looked back. forge even deeper bonds, all centered around the plate. At Fairview Gardens, she quickly found out that no day “The relationships we have with each other is the glue that is a “typical day.” For her, waking up at 5:30am started with holds us together as people,” says Mark. “Fairview is a literal a moment of quiet reflection before work began. Learning and metaphorical intersection in everything from how to drive our community, a common space a tractor to irrigation, to for people to gather.” transplanting and seeding, it “Fairview is a literal and metaphorical was discerning nature’s subtlety Fairview Gardens offers an intersection in our community, a opportunity for nourishment— that became the most valuable nourishment in our relationships, to her. With the hands-on common space for people to gather.” in our community and with program, Carissa found herself the food we are eating. As looking at the earth as a full Mark ponders amidst the rising sun and now-cold coffee, sensory experience, understanding that farming is just as much we wonder… we share so many words, but do we really physical as mental—nurturing the land in the same way you communicate with each other? We eat a lot of food, but do we would a friend or loved one. break bread with each other? By connecting and slowing down, “You use your mind in agriculture, all the time, especially we can foster these natural connections, and remember what it in permaculture,” says Carissa. “I really enjoy getting my hands is to be human again, to break bread together. in the earth and connecting to nature. It always hits this really With the money from the farm-to-table dinners, Fairview satisfying spot in my heart.” Gardens hopes to not only support future farm endeavors In one particular awareness exercise, Field Coordinator but also build what has already become a very successful Cesar Gomez took the apprentices into the tomato vines to apprenticeship program. With more money, Mark hopes to offer a quiet meditation. As the early morning sun rose, the offer more field trips, guest speakers and the ability to nurture a apprentices were asked to feel the sun against their face and to new crop of hopeful farmers—the seeds of our future. become one with the budding plants —the small miracle of sun, One of those seeds, Carissa Hayes, sums up her experience: water, soil and care. “What’s really beautiful about farming is that when you are out “One of the main things I learned was awareness, how there in the field, nothing really matters about who you are. You much you need to slow down with nature,” says Carissa. “We are all doing the same thing… as Mark would say, ‘You are all are always trying to move really fast, but you never are going to the same height out there.’” be aware of what’s happening around you by moving fast.” Instead of feeling separate from her food choices, she became empowered, feeling part of a greater system where she When not rallying for fair food, Rachel Hommel can be spotted at the farmers market, practicing yoga and dancing to the beet of life. She has could redefine local food culture. written for the Santa Barbara Independent, establishing a “Meet Your She also offers advice for future farm apprentices: “Be so Farmer” column to celebrate local agraria. open to whatever comes your way. Ultimately, every experience is different. Just embrace whatever knowledge is coming to you, Learn More and be really open to it.” As Mark and I continue our walk, he explains that the farm If interested in learning more about Fairview Gardens, brings together three important tenets of everyday life — food, donorship or the apprenticeship program, visit community and nature. While these three common things exist FairviewGardens.org or tour the farm at 598 N. Fairview Ave., all over the world, people are searching for community, hungry Goleta, CA 93117. for connections lost in our fast society. Farm-to-table dinners EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 61
Eating Your Local Harvest When Gardens Go Bonkers
PASC ALE BE ALE
by Pascale Beale
Roasted Kale and Grilled Persimmon Salad.
any years ago I spent the late summer and early autumn months in the South of France in a little farmhouse situated not far from the sea. Every day I’d walk down to the sea for a swim, past a field that was overflowing with vast numbers of tomato plants and a quarter acre of melons. After my swim I would walk back past the same field, still filled with an abundance of ripe tomatoes and all those succulent fruit. On rare occasions I would see the owner filling a basket. There were hundreds and hundreds of tomatoes and an equal number of melons lying in the fields. Well, after masses of hand wringing, I couldn’t help it; I just had to help that harvest along. If I didn’t eat them, who would? I made tomato and melon salads for weeks. It was a guilty pleasure. Friends know I love making jam and I often find unexpected gifts on my doorstep. A friend called me recently and said, “Would you like some lemons? I have lots of them.” I said I would. A few hours later a 50-pound bucket of assorted 62 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
lemons sat by my front door. I quickly learned that you need to qualify “a lot.” We made marmalade. Another friend offered a lot of figs—again I envisioned a large basket, enough to make jam. In this instance “a lot” meant about a dozen. No jam then, but a lovely tart. So what does one do when one has an overabundance of a single fruit or vegetable? In the garden of my old house there was a prolific plum tree that annually produced well over 75 pounds of plums. We would check the tree daily and wait for the perfect moment to pick all the gorgeous fruit. The kids loved climbing the tree to pick those out-of-reach plums. Every year a good friend of mine and her three daughters would come over for the annual plum jam making session. Sitting around a wooden table set up in the garden, we’d spend a couple of hours cleaning and chopping up all the fruit. It was always a convivial-fun-laughter-filled-fingerstinted-purple afternoon. The reward for everyone taking part was jars of plum jam to take home.
We’d make jam, chutney and myriad desserts with the fruit, which of course all ripened at once. I gave away buckets full too. These are the pleasures of owning fruit trees or planting a garden: You can share your bounty. I have now moved across town and have discovered the edible treasures of my new garden. I lost the plum tree but gained an apricot tree. This was a huge treat, for apricots are quite possibly one of my favorite fruits. When I first saw the tree I immediately envisioned bushels of apricots that could be turned into preserves. I didn’t count on battling the birds that waited patiently every morning for their sweet breakfast, and the netting I put up was not up to the task of keeping away the merrily chirping birds. The apricots that remained, however, were incredible, reminiscent of those in my grandmother’s garden— dark gold in color, with the taste of liquid honey. Unfortunately there weren’t quite enough to make the hoped-for preserves. As luck would have it, a friend who lives a few blocks away had an abundance of apricots and generously
The kale, on the other hand, went bonkers. I made lots of roasted kale salads. I also discovered that it’s easier to give away apricot jam than bags full of kale.
discovered that there’s only so much apple crumble one family can eat. I usually need 8–10 apples to make a crumble; I use just 3 of these. I think it may be time for a new tradition— apple butter anyone? Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons. Her new book, Salade. will be released in 2014. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com
RECIPES Roasted Kale and Grilled Persimmon Salad This is one of the kale recipes I made with the prolific plants from the garden. If you have access to a Fuyu persimmon tree, you are in for a treat. This is another fruit tree that I covet— maybe I can find a spot to squeeze one in! Makes 8 servings 6 Fuyu persimmons, halved and sliced 4 golden beets, peeled, halved and sliced Olive oil Coarse salt, black pepper 1 large bunch curly kale, stems trimmed and the leaves cut into thin strips
offered up some of her fruit. We spent an hour together, in the afternoon sun, picking and discussing the merits of different types of canning, pectin or no pectin, varying methods of jam making and old family recipes, while her dogs scampered around our feet. Once home, I combined all the fruit and made a batch of my grandmother’s jam. I ate a spoonful and was transported back to her kitchen. A kaleidoscope of images flickered through my mind — I remembered our conversations with the family gathered in her garden picking and cutting up fruit, learning to make jams and sealing jars with melted paraffin wax. All of these tastes and memories tied to an abundance of fruit! Recently some good friends surprised me with a new raised vegetable bed. A flurry of planting, weeding and tending young shoots followed. My approach to gardening tends to be plant it and let it grow without too much tending and nurturing, which might explain why my garden produces haphazard results. The squash plants died in a matter of weeks. Some bug, apparently. The arugula was and still is fabulous, peppery but has a tendency to bolt. The tomatoes aren’t getting enough sun (my mother will interject here “I told you so”) resulting in a meager harvest. The kale, on the other hand, went bonkers. I made lots of roasted kale salads. I also discovered that it’s easier to give away apricot jam than bags full of kale. Then there is the apple tree. As of this moment it is producing gargantuan apples weighing in at close to 1 pound apiece. We are an apple-crumble-mad family. However, I’ve
1 lemon, halved 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1
⁄ 2 cup fresh basil leaves, left whole
⁄ 4 cup fresh cilantro leaves, left whole
⁄ 4 cup fresh mint leaves, left whole
Preheat oven to 350°. Place the sliced persimmons and sliced golden beets into a salad bowl with a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of salt and some black pepper. Toss to coat evenly. Place a cast-iron griddle on a stovetop over high heat. Once hot, add the sliced persimmons and beets (you may need to do this in two batches) and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side. Once cooked, place them on a plate. Place the chopped kale onto a sheet pan/cookie sheet. Drizzle with a little olive oil, sprinkle a little salt over the top and add a little pepper. Place in the center of the oven and roast for 8 minutes. As soon as the kale is cooked, remove from the oven and squeeze the lemon all over the kale. Combine 3 tablespoons olive oil and the vinegar in the bottom of a salad bowl and whisk together well. Place salad utensils over the vinaigrette. Place the grilled persimmons and beets, and roasted kale on top of the utensils. Add all the herbs to the salad bowl. When you are ready to serve, toss the salad well.
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ERIN FEINBL AT T
Roasted Root Vegetables with Herb Pesto My son and I planted carrots as they are one of the few vegetables that he really likes to eat. This is one of the dishes I made with the first carrots of the season. Now I just need to master the art of growing parsnips and squash and then I’ll have everything I need at my fingertips. A good goal for next year. Makes 8–10 servings
FOR THE VEGETABLES 3 yellow onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 1 Butternut squash, peeled, halved, seeds removed and then cut into 1-inch pieces (about 1 pound) 5–6 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 6 small to medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 red onion, peeled, halved and cut into slices 5 – 6 springs thyme Olive oil Juice of 1–2 lemons Salt and black pepper
FOR THE HERB PESTO 4 tablespoons fruity olive oil Juice and zest of 1–2 lemons 1 large handful parsley, chopped (continued on next page)
64 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
1 large handful cilantro, roughly chopped 1 large handful basil leaves 2 tablespoons chives, chopped 1 clove garlic
Preheat oven to 375°. Place all the vegetables in a roasting pan and drizzle with olive oil. Squeeze the lemons over the vegetables and add the thyme, a dash or two of salt and 4–5 grinds of pepper. Roast the veggies in the oven for 30–40 minutes. The carrots can have a little crunch but the parsnips and squash do need to be cooked through, so check those in particular. While the vegetables are roasting, prepare the herb pesto. Place all the pesto ingredients into a blender or food processor (liquids first—it makes it easier to process) and run the blender until you have a relatively smooth pesto. Check the seasoning. Depending on the size of the lemons you use, you may need a dash more. It should be bright green and very fresh tasting. Pour the pesto into a salad bowl and add the roasted vegetables to the bowl as soon as they are cooked. Toss while they are still warm.
Apple and Almond Crumble This is a lovely variation of classic apple crumble. Given the number of apples the one tree in my garden produces, I think I may have to create some more versions. Makes 8–10 servings 6–7 large apples, peeled, cored and sliced 1
⁄ 3 cup golden raisins
Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1
⁄ 2 cup water
Honey 1 cup almond meal or almond flour 1
⁄ 2 cup flour
⁄ 3 cup almonds, roughly chopped
11⁄ 3 — 11⁄ 2 sticks butter, cut into small cubes
Preheat oven to 400°. Place all the sliced apples into a large round ovenproof dish (it should be about 11–12 inches across). Sprinkle the golden raisins on top of the apples. Pour the water and lemon juice over the fruit. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of honey over the fruit.
ERIN FEINBL AT T
ERIN FEINBL AT T
Combine the almond flour, flour, chopped almonds and lemon zest in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Add the cubed butter and mix it together with the flour using your fingers. The finished mixture should resemble coarse breadcrumbs. (You may have a few larger pieces of butter and that is OK.) Cover the fruit with the crumble mixture, spreading it out evenly over the top. Drizzle 1 tablespoon honey in a lattice pattern over the crumble. Bake in the center of the oven for 40 minutes, or until the crumble is golden brown. Serve warm. This is excellent with some vanilla ice cream or crème fraiche! EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 65
WFI N AL T LE RE D ED I BI LBEL EE VE EV N EN T ST S
S E PT E M BER
S AT U R D AY
S U N D AY
SOL Food Festival
10am–6pm at Plaza Vera Cruz Park 130 E.Cota St.
Noon–4pm at Cambria Winery Enjoy a little wine, a little cheese and live music by David & Olivia while relaxing at Cambria Winery. 5475 Chardonnay Lane, Santa Maria. CambriaWines.com
A one-day community festival to celebrate farmers, chefs, businesses, organizations and individuals who are dedicated to a sustainable, organic, local food future. Three educational stages, 80+ exhibitors, local beer and wine garden, locavore food court, hands-on demos and kids activities. Free admission; SOLFoodFestival.com
O C T O B ER
e Santa Barba ibl ra Ed
W E D N E S D AY
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Eat Local Challenge
An Evening with Cat Cora
In conjunction with epicure.sb, Edible Santa Barbara, the Santa Barbara Farmers Market and the Community Environmental Council (CEC) are cosponsoring an Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. For more info visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com and join the Facebook Group and RSVP for the event at Eat Local Challenge.
6–7pm at Santa Barbara Wine Collective 131 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara Cat Cora discusses her experiences as a chef, culinary passion and love for Santa Barbara. Followed by a reception mingling with other foodies while enjoying Notary Public wine, and Cat Cora inspired seasonal canapés featuring local produce. Facebook.com/ SantaBarbaraWineCollective
5–8pm; downtown Santa Barbara The tastings, art and performance of this First Thursday are part of epicure. sb, the monthlong celebration of cuisine, libations and culture in Santa Barbara County. Find out more about exclusive prix-fixe menus, secret menu items and specialty tastings at EpicureSB.com.
F R I D AY – S U N D AY
F R I D AY
S AT U R D AY
S U N D AY
28th Annual California Avocado Festival
Isabella After Hours: Foodie Film Series
Table of Life Gala Luncheon
Linden Ave. in Carpinteria Eat your way through the delicious food galleria, enjoy fantastic music and entertainment, visit the kids’ block party, browse the arts and crafts and Avocado Expo Tent and watch or take part in the famous guacamole contest. Free admission; 805 684-0038; AvoFest.com
7pm at Isabella Gourmet Foods 5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara A special foodie film series the first four Fridays in October. Complete with all the traditional movie snacks, including locally made popcorn, candies, chocolates, beverages and more. Check website for movie selections and featured snacks: IsabellaGourmetFoods.com
The 3rd Annual Refugio Ranch Vineyards Winemaker Dinner
S U N D AY – M O N D AY
T H U R S D AY
F R I D AY
Europe vs. US May the Best Cheese Win!
Sensational Seafood: Local Lobster
Foxen Winemaker Dinner
10/05: 3:30 & 5pm; 10/06: 6 & 7:30pm at C’est Cheese 825 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara
5:30–6:30pm at 211 Stearns Wharf Santa Barbara
CHALLENGE OCTOBER 2014
Cheese taste off at C’est Cheese! $25/ person with wine; $20/person without. For more information call 805 965-0318 or visit CestCheese.com.
Celebrate the opening of California Spiny Lobster season at the Sea Center with a taste of fresh lobster paired with a Central Coast wine. Then enjoy a prix-fixe meal featuring local lobster at your choice of participating restaurants. SBSeafood.org.
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4 –8pm at Refugio Ranch Vineyards A beautiful afternoon at the vineyard hosted by winemaker Ryan Deovlet and the Gleason Family. This event will feature exquisite al fresco dining among the vineyard blocks, tastings of unreleased Refugio Ranch wines and conversations with the winemaker and owners. For more info, please email email@example.com
6:30pm at the Wine Cask Santa Barbara Join Dick and Jenny Dore from Foxen Winery for a delicious meal created by Wine Cask, accompanied by Foxen wines. $150 (all inclusive); to reserve, call the Wine Cask at 805 966-9463.
Pacifica Graduate Institute Funds raised will support Foodbank’s award-winning Feed the Future programs, a continuum of innovative programs that foster nutritional health and independence in children from preschool to high school graduation. For more information and tickets contact 805 967-5741; FoodBankSBC.org/TableOfLife
For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
Backyard Chickens with Brenton Kelly
12th Annual Santa Barbara Harbor & Seafood Festival
Celebration of Harvest
Farm to Table Dinner
9am–1pm at Fairview Gardens
10am–5pm at 132-A Harbor Way Santa Barbara
1–4pm; Old Mission Santa Ines Solvang
5–8:30pm at Zaca Mesa Winery Los Olivos
Celebrate the 2014 Harvest as all 100+ winery members gather to present their wines, often poured by the winemakers themselves. The Festival also presents some of the best local food from restaurants, caterers and gourmet food creators. Listen to live music from various bands and musicians. CelebrationOfHarvest.com
This catered dinner featuring rabbit and duck recipes and local produce will be served by Chef John from Custom Cuisine and local chef/writer Pascale Beale, accompanied by Zaca Mesa wines. Reservations required; $85. Call 805 688-9339 x 311 or via email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Learn everything you need to raise happy hens, including a hen house and yard set-up, nesting boxes, water, feed, local suppliers, caring for your hens and chicks and favorite crops to grow for your chickens. $60. To sign up and information on discounts for multiple classes, visit FairviewGardens.org.
Seafood lovers of all ages can go to the Harbor for delectable regional seafood specialties, cooking demonstrations, interactive maritime education, boat rides, live music and more. Free admission. 805 897-1962; HarborFestival.org
S U N D AY
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Harvest Walk and Brunch
Santa Barbara Beer Festival
10am at Buttonwood Farm & Winery, Solvang
Noon–4pm at Elings Park, 1298 Las Positas Rd., Santa Barbara
Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club
A walk the vineyards and farm with Buttonwood’s winemaker, Karen Steinwachs, followed by brunch and a wine pairing at their beautiful pond. $40; for more information and tickets visit ButtonwoodWinery.com/events.
Enjoy local and regional breweries, food and music at Santa Barbara’s oldest beer festival. Proceeds go toward Elings Park and the Santa Barbara Rugby Association. $50 advance purchase and $60 after October 11. 21 and up only. SBBeerFestival.com
S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
Open Streets ¡Calles Vivas!
Real Ale Invitational Lunch and Festival
10am–4pm at E. Cabrillo Blvd. Santa Barbara More than 2.5 miles of beautiful Santa Barbara beachfront road will be closed to vehicle traffic and open to car-free activities and adventures. Enjoy Open Streets then walk a block over to the Funk Zone to check out the Urban Wine Trail and find other great tastes and treats. Free. SBOpenStreets.org
Buttonwood Farm & Winery, Solvang Join us for a special Eat Local Challenge dinner at Buttonwood Farm & Winery with chef Luca Crestanelli of S.Y. Kitchen. These prix-fixe dinners feature local wineries and restaurants in our Dining Guide. For details and tickets visit the Events section on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
Monster Mash Tasting Flight Daily noon–6pm at Au Bon Climat, 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara Enjoy the bizarre—or is it? There is more than Pinot and Chardonnay at Au Bon Climat. For one week, ABC will feature a “Monster Mash” Flight of wines in addition to their classic lineup. This is a mash up of all their unusual, eclectic varietals such Tocai Friulano, Aligote, Viognier, Petit Verdot and Nebbiolo. $10/tasting. AuBonClimat.com
11:30am and 1–4pm at Figueroa Mountain Brewing Company in Buellton Over a dozen breweries will be showcasing their own styles of real ale (cask beer); $40 (includes a souvenir glass, unlimited tastings and live music). Real Ale Lunch (4-course meal prepared by chef Beto Huizar) $75 and includes Invitational. FigMtnBrew.com/RealAle; 805 694-2252.
S U N D AY
F R I D AY
S AT U R D AY
Screening of Ground Operations: Battlefields to Farmfields
2–6pm in Lompoc An afternoon of discovery, fun and relaxation as you wander through Lompoc, sipping wine at over 20 participating tasting rooms and wine bars. You will be provided with a Sip Lompoc logo glass and a map. Stay for Shop Small Business Saturday with over 40 Lompoc businesses offering specials and discounts. Tickets: FirstStreetTickets. com/Events/Sip-Lompoc.
Riverbench Winery in Santa Maria Riverbench winemaker Clarissa Nagy will present a seminar on sparking wines. For reservations call 805 937-8340 or email email@example.com.
NO VE MBER & D E C E MBER
7pm at the Faulkner Gallery Santa Barbara Library An important documentary film illustrates the exciting possibilities for veterans entering the farming community. Directed by filmmaker Dulanie Ellis. $10. GroundOperations.net
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edible Dining Guide
Santa Barbara County has its own unique food traditions — from Santa Maria barbecue to Santa Barbara spot prawns and the
world-class local wines that accompany them— so we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants that create the distinctively Santa Barbara dining experience. Restaurants are invited to advertise in this guide because of their emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients and their commitment to real food.
South County Arlington Tavern
Ca’ Dario Pizzeria
21 W. Victoria St. Santa Barbara 805 770-2626 ArlingtonTavern.com
29 E. Victoria St. Santa Barbara 805 957-2020 CaDarioPizza.net
Offering a winning combination of local, farm-fresh fare, exceptional service and a unique relationship between beer, wine and food. Chef Ron True crafts his seasonal menu using only the highest-quality, simple and honest ingredients. Farm Friendly Dining Certified. Dinner Mon– Sat 5–10pm, Sun 5–9pm; bar 4pm–midnight, Sun 4–10pm.
Located just steps away from Chef Dario Furlati's flagship eatery, Ca’ Dario Pizzeria offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. The 30-seat restaurant boasts a welcoming bar, perfect for enjoying local or Italian beers on tap. Open for lunch Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner Mon–Sun 5–9:30pm.
825 Santa Barbara St. Santa Barbara 805 965-0318 CestCheese.com
Santa Barbara Locations: 331 Motor Way 805 845-5379 3849 State St., La Cumbre 805 569-0011 Goleta Location: 5668 Calle Real 805 770-2730 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
The Bistro Bacara Resort & Spa 8301 Hollister Ave. Goleta 877-804-8632 BacaraResort.com The Bistro offers a casual and relaxed oceanside atmosphere for all ages. Rich in fragrant olive oil and local vegetables, menu highlights offer traditional Italian dishes, such as pastas and brick-oven flatbreads, complemented by lighter, coastal cuisine. After an extensive renovation, the new dining room incorporates Santa Barbara’s beautiful panorama.
Book Ends Café 602 Anacapa St., (upper patio) Santa Barbara 805 963-3222 Book Ends Café offers unique handcrafted sandwiches and seasonal selections of farm-fresh salads, quiches and treats, all prepared with ingredients sourced from local farmers. Enjoy organic, fair-trade coffee while sitting on the secret and tranquil rooftop patio. Mon–Thu 8am– 6:15pm; Fri–Sat 8am–2pm.
Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St. Santa Barbara 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “as-freshand-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.
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In addition to being a local source for the finest cheeses and artisanal foods, C’est Cheese also serves breakfast and lunch—fresh salads, soups, sandwiches and incredible pastries. Mon-Sat, 7am–6pm. Sun 8am–3pm.
Cielito Restaurant 1114 State St. Santa Barbara 805 965-4770 CielitoRestaurant.com Cielito showcases bold and sophisticated flavors with Mexican and Latin American inspired cuisine featuring the highest-quality, local and seasonal ingredients from land and sea. Full bar, award-winning wine list. Lunch, happy hour, dinner. Private dining available. Tue–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm; Tue–Thu & Sun 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.
Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave. Carpinteria 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and -operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm. Closed Tuesday.
Goodland Kitchen & Market 231 S. Magnolia Ave. Old Town Goleta 805 845-4300 GoodlandKitchen.com The Goodland Kitchen is a quick service café specializing in delicious, well prepared, affordable breakfasts and lunch, served outside under the magnolia tree. They prepare food fresh daily, in small batches with ingredients from local farmers to provide an exceptional and unexpected culinary experience in the heart of Old Town Goleta. Mon–Fri 8am–2:30pm.
The Lark 131 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara 805 284-0370 TheLarkSB.com The Lark features artisanal and seasonal ingredients that celebrate our local community. Enjoy dinner and drinks in the architecturally urban-inspired dining room, at the communal table, the bar or out on the patio by the fire. The private and classy Pullman Room is available for your next special event. Open for dinner Tue–Sun 5–10pm; until 11pm on Fri and Sat.
Lucky Penny 131 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara 805 284-0358 LuckyPennySB.com The Lucky Penny take-away café offers wood-fired pizza, artisan coffee, handmade pastries, seasonal salads, fresh squeezed juices, beer and wine. Enjoy your meal onsite in the picnic area or grab it to go. The perfect place to stop as you meander along the Urban Wine Trail in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner 7am–9pm seven days a week.
Miró Bacara Resort & Spa 8301 Hollister Ave. Goleta 877-804-8632 BacaraResort.com Miró offers progressive European cuisine, an interior inspired by the Spanish artist Miró and breathtaking views of the Pacific. Chef de Cuisine Johan Denizot's locally sourced ingredients are accented with unique international flavors. Miró Wine Cellar houses an extensive collection of 12,000 wines spanning 13 countries and 75 international appellations.
The Pasta Shoppe (in Santa Barbara Public Market) 38 W. Victoria St. Santa Barbara 805 770-3668 Dedicated to providing an authentic Italian experience, The Pasta Shoppe offers farm fresh, organic ingredients, handmade daily pasta prepared by a former Eataly pasta artist. The Chef’s Counter offers an intimate dining experience, while observing an Italian kitchen at work. Take-away fresh pasta, with gluten-free options. Pasta making and cooking classes. Mon–Wed 10am–8pm, Thu–Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 9am–8pm.
Reds Bar & Tapas 211 Helena St. Santa Barbara 805 966-5906 RedsBarandTapas.wordpress.com Located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone, offering a tapasstyle menu, full bar and wide selection of cervezas and vinos. Enjoy a glass of wine and a cheese plate on the charming al fresco patio. Hosting live entertainment and eclectic events weekly.
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro Loreto Plaza at 3315 State St. Santa Barbara 805 569-2400 Arlington Plaza at 1324 State St. Santa Barbara 805 892-2800 RenaudsBakery.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for lunch and dinner. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm, Sun 7am–3pm.
Sama Sama Kitchen 1208 State St., Santa Barbara 805 965-4566 SamaSamaKitchen.com Sama Sama creates meals inspired by Indonesian food and local farms and markets. Their food and cocktail menu is constantly changing depending on availability from our local sources. They are locally owned and operated and part of the Shelter Social Club family. Lunch Mon–Wed 11am–2pm. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10pm and Sun 5–9pm. Happy Hour Thur–Fri 4–5pm.
Scarlett Begonia 11 W. Victoria St., #10 Santa Barbara 805 770-2143 ScarlettBegonia.net Scarlett Begonia will always strive to have interesting, thoughtful food. Menus change weekly with an innovative, fresh approach to breakfast, lunch and dinner. Showcasing progressive modern cuisine, Scarlett Begonia features sustainable, organic, high quality ingredients coupled with innovative cooking to provide one of the most food-centric experiences in Santa Barbara. Open for dinner and cocktail hour Tue–Sat 4–9pm, breakfast and lunch Tue–Sun 9am–2pm.
Simply Pies 5392 Hollister Ave. Santa Barbara 805 845-2200 SimplyPiesSB.com The pie cottage offers sweet and savory pies, quiches and salads handcrafted with fresh, local organic ingredients. Vegan, gluten free and sugar-free options. Open Tue–Fri 7:30am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5:30pm.
Sly’s 686 Linden Ave. Carpinteria 805 684-6666 SlysOnline.com Sly’s is known for great food, with an emphasis on farmers market and local produce, great cocktails and great times in Carpinteria. Open Mon–Fri for lunch 11:30am–3pm, lounge menu weekdays 3–5pm; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9pm; Fri and Sat 5–10pm; and weekend brunch & lunch Sat– Sun 9am–3pm.
Sojourner Café 134 E. Cañon Perdido St. Santa Barbara 805 965-7922 SojournerCafe.com The Sojourner has been serving unique dishes created with wholesome natural ingredients for 35 years. They purchase organic produce from local growers, carry local wines and beers and are known for their innovative desserts. Open Sun–Wed 11am–10pm (desserts and drinks until 10:30); Thu–Sat 11am–11pm.
Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch
Fresco Valley Café 442 Atterdag Rd. Solvang 805 688-8857 FrescoValleyCafe.com
900 San Ysidro Lane Santa Barbara 805 565-1724 SanYsidroRanch.com Featuring Chef Matthew Johnson’s regional cuisine, prepared with fresh herbs and vegetables harvested from San Ysidro Ranch organic gardens. Winner of The Wine Spectator Grand Award, The Stonehouse demonstrates passionate devotion to their unrivaled wine list, food, ambience and service.
The Wine Cask
Fresco Valley Café offers a broad menu of dishes made from scratch using homemade family recipes and organic and fresh local ingredients. You will also find fresh pastries, a fine list of local beer and wine and a plentiful catering menu. Wed 11am–8pm; Thu–Sat 11am–8:30pm; Sun 11am–8pm.
Full of Life Flatbread 225 W. Bell St. Los Alamos 805 344-4400 FullofLifeFoods.com
813 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara 805 966-9463 WineCask.com The Wine Cask Restaurant features the freshest local ingredients, the best wine list in town, and seasonal signature cocktails. They offer fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and casual dining in the courtyard, and at their Intermezzo bar. Lunch: Tue–Fri 11:30am– santa barbara 3pm. Dinner: Tue–Sun from 5:30pm. Last seating at 9pm Sun–Thu, 10pm Fri–Sat.
North County Ballard Inn & Restaurant 2436 Baseline Ave. Ballard. 800 638-2466 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com
On weekends Full of Life Flatbread converts their production flatbread bakery space into a restaurant and offers an extremely innovative menu based almost entirely on what is grown locally and in season. Open Thu–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 4–8pm.
The Hitching Post II 406 E. Hwy. 246 Buellton 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com From Santa Maria–style barbecue to more contemporary cuisine such as smoked duck breast, ostrich, homemade soups and outstanding pastries, The Hitching Post II also offers their own world-class Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily. Cocktails/wine Mon–Fri 4pm, Sat–Sun 3pm. Dinners only Mon–Fri 5–9:30pm, Sat–Sun 4–9:30pm.
Chef Budi Kazali's award-winning cuisine, an extensive wine list, exceptional service and a romantic atmosphere create a memorable dining experience in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. Open for dinner Wed–Sun 5:30–9pm.
181 B Industrial Way Buellton 805 688-8807 IndustrialEats.com
Bell Street Farm Eatery & Market
Industrial Eats features wood-fired ovens, craft butcher shop, tap wines and beers, killer pies and the coolest coffee machine on the Central Coast. Open every day 10am–9pm.
406 Bell St. Los Alamos 805 344-4609 BellStreetFarm.com With farm-fresh cuisine and sophisticated yet comfortable design, Bell Street Farm offers a distinct environment to enjoy a meal, snack or a wine tasting. The market showcases picnic baskets and accessories for creating a portable meal, as well as gifts and merchandise from local artisans. Open Fri–Mon 10am– 6pm.
Beto’s Place at Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. 45 Industrial Way Buellton 805 694-2252 FigMtnBrew.com Opening soon, Beto’s Place will feature casual California cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. Chef Beto Huizar offers a full menu featuring gourmet versions of brewpub favorites like burgers, chicken wings and fish tacos. He takes finger food to the next level with appetizers such as mac and cheese bites, beer battered calamari and several kinds of sliders.
Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St. Los Alamos 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com Bob’s Well Bread is about great bread, made the old-fashioned way—handcrafted in small batches and baked to perfection in a custom-built, stone-deck oven. Stop by their bakery for baguettes, croissants, bagels and more. Closed Tue and Wed.
Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café 2879 Grand Ave. Los Olivos 805 688-7265 LosOlivosCafe.com The Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café brings together the best flavors of the Central Coast. Their award-winning wine list offers over 500 wines, to enjoy with their fresh, seasonal and local cuisine, or to enjoy at home. Open for lunch and dinner daily 11:30am–8:30pm (8pm Sun) and breakfast Sat & Sun 8–10:30am.
SY Valley Kitchen 1110 Faraday St, Santa Ynez 805 691-9794 SYKitchen.com An inviting farmhouse in the heart of Santa Ynez, serving modern Northern Italian dishes showcasing local ingredients and Chef Luca Crestinelli’s light touch. Home-made pastas; wood-fired pizzas; oak-grilled chicken, lamb chops and steak. The bar program features dazzling cocktails crafted by Alberto Battaglini.
Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Drive Solvang 805 691-9444 SucculentCafe.com Specializing in handcrafted and artisan culinary goods. Featuring buttermilk biscuit breakfast sandwiches, gourmet sandwiches and salads at lunch and unique local-centric plates at dinner.
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Currently showing on PBS Television Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com
70 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Source Guide The Edible Source Guide is a compact listing of all of our advertisers. Please visit them to pick up your free copy of the magazine and let them know how much you appreciate their support of Edible Santa Barbara. BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES
Figueroa Mountain Brewery Quality craft beer has been the focus of family-owned “Fig Mtn Brew” since they started production in 2010. Try their famous Davy Brown Ale or Hoppy Poppy IPA at their flagship tasting room and beer garden in Buellton (45 Industrial Way, Open Mon–Thu 1–9pm and Fri–Sat 11am–9pm) or their new tasting room in the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara (137 Anacapa, Suite F, open daily 11am–9pm). 805 694-2252; info@FigMtnBrew.com Telegraph Brewing Co. Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room at 418 N. Salsipuedes Street, Santa Barbara, Tue– Thu 3–9pm, Fri–Sat 2–10pm, Sun 1–7pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California. TelegraphBrewing.com CATERERS AND PRIVATE CHEFS
Le Petit Chef Personal chef, private parties, cooking lessons. With her Weekly Meal Delivery service, Le Petit Chef now proudly offers healthy, gourmet, seasonally inspired dishes delivered to your door every Tuesday and Thursday. Sign up via email to receive weekly menu updates at firstname.lastname@example.org. 805 637-3899; LePetitChefSB.com New West Catering Uniting the artistry of fine restaurant cuisine with the versatility of full-service catering, New West Catering is your unparalleled choice for special events in the Santa Barbara County wine country and beyond. 805 688-0991; NewWestCatering.com FARMERS MARKETS
Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market Eight markets, six days a week. See schedule on page 27. 805 962-5354; SBFarmersMarket.org FARMS AND RANCHES
Casitas Valley Farm & Creamery A multi-enterprise system using Permaculture principles to provide our local community with certified organic crops, artisan crafted cheese,
and sustainably raised, heritage pigs. Farmstand open Sundays 11am–4pm at 4620 Casitas Pass Rd., Ventura (Hwy. 150); 805 649-8179; CasitasValley.com
Drake Family Farms Making locally produced farmstead artisan goat cheese in Ontario, California. At Drake Family Farms every goat has a name and their goat cheeses are made on the farm with milk exclusively from the farm’s own animals. Available at local farmers markets and at DrakeFamilyFarms.com Fat Uncle Farms Fat Uncle Farms grows almonds in Wasco, just northwest of Bakersfield, and they sell fresh whole raw almonds as well as roasted and flavored almonds and many other almond products at the Saturday, Tuesday, Friday and Thursday farmers markets. 866 290-0219; FatUncleFarms.wordpress.com Global Gardens Global Gardens® is Santa Barbara county’s premiere Certified Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil producer. Visit their Los Olivos demonstration farm and world famous tasting bar for signature tasting palette of over 12 tastings, education, worldly recipes and more. 2450 Alamo Pintado Rd., Los Olivos; 800 307-0447; GlobalGardensOnline.com Jimenez Family Farm Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farmraised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry. 805 688-0597; JimenezFamilyFarm.com Rancho Olivos Located in beautiful Santa Ynez, Rancho Olivos creates distinctively fresh artisan extra-virgin olive oils from their sustainably grown Italian and Spanish varietals of olives. Open for olive oil tasting daily noon–4pm. 805 686-9653; RanchoOlivos.com
Indonesian food inspired by our local farms & markets. 1208 State St. Santa Barbara samasamakitchen.com LOCA L LY OW N E D , OP E RAT E D & PA RT of the S HE LT E R SOCIA L CL UB fam ily
“on the fly”
Farmer’s Market Menu Every Tuesday Always 3 courses plus a craft cocktail. Always interesting. Always delicious. $35
haPPy hoUr Full bar, all drinks and nibbles 4:30-6:00 Tues-Sat
11 West Victoria in Victoria Court
breakfast & lunch: tues–sun dinner: tues–sat
Bob’s Well Bread Bob’s Well Bread is about great bread, made the old-fashioned way—handcrafted in small batches and baked to perfection in a custombuilt, stone-deck oven. They use only the finest ingredients, sourced locally and seasonally, in all of their products. 550 Bell St., Los Alamos; info@BobsWellBread.com; 805 344-3000; BobsWellBread.com Crazy Good Bread Co. Crazy Good Bread makes the good life a little bit better, with handmade artisan breads. Be breadventurous and try one of their many flavors of levain loaf, crisps or croutons. Open Mon– Thu 10am–5pm; Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 8am–3pm. 4191 Carpinteria Ave. #12, Carpinteria; 562 270-0680; CrazyGoodBread.com (continued on next page)
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FOOD PRODUCTS CONTINUED
Green Star Coffee Green Star Coffee sources only the finest Certified Organic Fair Trade coffees and teas from the premier growing regions around the world. GreenStarCoffee.com Joëlle Olive Oil Joëlle Olive Oil offers a full line of fresh, coldpressed, extra-virgin olive oil estate grown in California. Award winning in international competitions, all of their oils are unfiltered, extra-virgin and date-stamped for year of production. JoelleOil.com GROCERY STORES & PRODUCE DELIVERY
Isla Vista Food Co-op A community-owned food co-op open to the public and highly regarded for its sustainable business practices and high-quality foods. Highlighting tri-county local, organic, fair-trade, farmer-owned, vegan, vegetarian, kosher, raw, gluten-free and all-around sustainable ways of being. Open daily 8am–10pm. 6575 Seville Rd., Isla Vista. 805 968-1401; IslaVistaFood.coop Lazy Acres Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm. 302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara; 805 564-4410; LazyAcres.com Los Olivos Grocery Los Olivos Grocery offers a wide selection of local products, wines, beers and produce. Their delicatessen is a valley favorite, with a wide lunch menu. Breakfast is served on their enclosed patio. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, BBQ is offered. Open daily 7am–9pm; 2621 W. Hwy. 154, Santa Ynez; 805 688-5115; LosOlivosGrocery.com
Tecolote Book Shop Since 1925
1470 eaSt Valley rOad upper VillaGe Of MOntecitO
805 969-4977 Gift WrappinG • ShippinG • Special OrderS BOOk SearcheS • authOr appearanceS 72 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Mesa Produce A local ‘mom and pop’-owned produce stand offering farmer-direct produce at competitive prices. Although seasonal local products are their focus, they also carry a full line of produce items. Handmade jams sourced from Santa Barbara County, no-pesticide fruits; local organic produce, olives and olive oils, organic nuts and raw honey. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm; Sun noon–6pm. 2036 Cliff Dr., Santa Barbara 805 962-1645. New Frontiers Natural Marketplace New Frontiers Natural Marketplace is a full service natural foods grocery store and deli. Located in Solvang at 1984 Old Mission Dr. (corner of Alamo Pintado and Mission Dr.); 805 693-1746; NewFrontiersMarket.com Plow to Porch Organics Local organic/pesticide free/chemical free and all natural produce delivery service and organic market. The market carries a wide array of seasonal and local food products, located at 3204 State St. (walk through Buddha’s Garden), Santa Barbara. Open Mon–Fri 10am–7pm. 805 895-7171; PlowToPorch.com
Santa Barbara Public Market The Santa Barbara Public Market, located in the heart of the performing and cultural arts district, houses handcrafted, regionally sourced and sustainably made food and wine. With an ardent focus on local farms and artisanal ingredients, the Santa Barbara Public Market presents residents and visitors alike with a well stocked pantry for daily foraging. SBPublicMarket.com Whole Foods Market Founded in 1980 in Austin, Texas, Whole Foods Market, a leader in the natural and organic foods industry and America’s first national certified organic grocer, was named “America’s Healthiest Grocery Store” in 2008 by Health magazine. 3761 State St., Santa Barbara; 805 837-6959; WholeFoodsMarket.com HOTELS & INNS
Bacara Resort & Spa Nestled on the bluff and beaches of the Gaviota coast, Bacara offers relaxed luxury and incomparable natural beauty. Additional features include a four-story spa, wellness center, zero-edge saline swimming pools, restaurants, lounges and tasting room. BacaraResort.com Ballard Inn & Restaurant Comfortably elegant accommodations, attentive staff and award-winning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Restaurant one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Ynez Valley Wine Country. 2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard. 800 638-2466, 805 688-7770; BallardInn.com PROFESSIONAL SERVICES
American Riviera Bank Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm. 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 965-5942. AmericanRivieraBank.com Giffin & Crane General Contractors At Giffin & Crane General Contractors, Inc., each project is unique, whether it’s a simple remodel or an extraordinary architectural estate. Working closely with their clients to fulfill their clients’ dreams, they are committed to providing the best workmanship, on time and in budget. GiffinAndCrane.com Green Building Alliance The Green Building Alliance is the place to hire professionals who design, build and landscape with the environment in mind. Members include local architects, engineers, landscape architects, interior designers, contractors and related professionals who are committed to environmentally sustainable design and construction. GBAlliance.com
RESTAURANTS—EDIBLE DINING GUIDE
A listing of Local Restaurants is on page 68. SPECIALTY RETAILERS & PRODUCTS
Central Coast Specialty Foods Central Coast Specialty Foods showcases high quality local and imported specialty foods, offering charcuterie, gourmet cheeses, a fullservice deli, exotic meats and local beers and wines. Catering available. Mon–Wed 10am– 6pm, Thu–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm and Sun 10am– 4pm. 115 E. College Avenue, Ste. 10, Lompoc; 805 717-7675; CentralCoastSpecialtyFoods.com Chocolate Maya Chocolate Maya scours the world for pure, luscious chocolates and offers incredible savory bars, truffles, bonbons and gift baskets as well as a wide choice of organic and fair-trade chocolate products. Monday–Friday 10am– 6pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 10am– 4pm. 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara. 805 965-5956; ChocolateMaya.com Grapeseed Company The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skin care products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Located at 21 W. Ortega St., Santa Barbara and open Mon–Sat 11am–6pm. Closed Sun. 805 456-3655; TheGrapeseedCompany.com Here’s the Scoop Here’s the Scoop offers the finest gelato and sorbet made fresh daily from local farms and farmers market fruit. They specialize in seasonal flavors as well as traditional Italian flavors. Mon–Thu 1–9pm. Fri–Sat noon–10pm and Sun noon–9pm. 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito. 805 969-7020; ScoopSB.com il Fustino Purveyors of the finest and freshest olive oils, specialty oils, and vinegars attainable in today’s market. All oils are grown and milled in California. il Fustino products are secured from small boutique growers and provide unparallelled taste. Located at 3401 State St. Santa Barbara; 805 845-3521 and in the Santa Barbara Public Market at 38 W. Victoria St.; 805 845-4995, Santa Barbara; ilFustino.com Isabella Gourmet Foods A boutique artisan grocery combing the down-home charm of a New England general store with an upscale boutique setting. Open Mon–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm. 5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara. 805 585-5257; IsabellaGourmetFoods.com Juice Ranch Santa Barbara’s 100% organic, raw, locally sourced, glass-bottled, cold-pressed daily juice shop. Featuring farm-to-bottle seasonal juices, cleanses and elixir shots designed by nature. Mon–Sat 7:30am–6pm; Sun 9am–6pm. 33 Parker Way, Santa Barbara. 6533 Trigo Rd, Isla Vista and 2847 Agoura Rd, Westlake Village; 805 845-4657; JuiceRanch.com
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams McC’s was founded in Santa Barbara in 1949 with one goal: to make the finest ice cream in the world. Seventy years later, the dream is alive. Authentic, handcrafted ice creams, made with love by people obsessed with getting it right. 728 State St., Santa Barbara; McConnells.com Olive Hill Farm Gus Sousoures has been making his olive oils for many years in the Santa Ynez Valley and now you can taste and buy them, along with other oils, vinegars and gourmet food products at his cozy store in Los Olivos. Open daily 11am–5pm; 2901 Grand Ave, Los Olivos; 805 693-0700; OliveHillFarm.com Plum Goods Santa Barbara’s own eco-chic boutique offering handcrafted, fair trade, upcycled, simply inspired gifts, goods, furniture, lighting and art. Winner of Best Gift Store in SB! Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat 10am– 7pm; Sun 11am–5pm. 909 State St., Santa Barbara; 805 845-3900; PlumGoodsStore.com Tecolote Bookstore Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito at 1470 E. Valley Rd. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat 10am–5pm, closed Sun. 805 969-4977 Valley Brewers This local, independent shop supplies everything needed not only for home brewing, but for home winemaking and cheese making. They also offer classes and have a popular homebrewers club with monthly meetings. Open Wed–Sat 10am– 6pm, Sun 10am–4pm and Mon 10am–6pm. 515 Fourth Pl., Solvang; 805 691-9159; ValleyBrewers.com WHOLESALE PRODUCE DELIVERY
Harvest Santa Barbara Delivering freshly harvested wholesale produce—sourced directly from local family farms to schools, restaurants, hospitals and retail businesses. Their mission is to be the catalyst for a healthier, more sustainable food system by strengthening the ties between farmers and the community. 805 696-6930; HarvestSantaBarbara.com WINERIES AND WINE RETAILERS
Alma Rosa With certified organic vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills, Alma Rosa focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as other food friendly wines with the high acid and extraordinary balance for which Richard Sanford’s wines have been known since 1976. Open 11am–4:30pm daily. 250-G Industrial Way, Buellton. 805 688-9090; AlmaRosaWinery.com (continued on next page)
“Where Every Goat Has a Name” Farmstead Artisan Goat Cheese Locally produced on the farm with milk exclusively from the farm’s own animals. Available at local farmers markets and online.
(909) 947-8688 EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2014 | 73
WINERIES AND WINE RETAILERS CONTINUED
Alta Maria Vineyards Alta Maria Vineyards and its subsidiary wine brands. They strive to make the best wine possible in a conscious manner utilizing organic and sustainable techniques along with conventional methods, which leave no indelible mark on the people, places and products around us. Tasting room open 11am–5pm daily. 2933 Grand Ave., Suite A, Los Olivos; 805 686-1144; AltaMaria.com Au Bon Climat Tasting Room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library Celebrating 30 years of winemaking in Santa Barbara County, Au Bon Climat is world renowned for beautifully balanced and elegant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The tasting room features a large selections of cellar aged library wines and Jim Clendenen’s eclectic smaller labels. Open daily noon– 6pm; 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, next to the Wine Cask. 805 845-8435; AuBonClimat.com Beckmen Vineyards Begun in 1994 by father and son team Tom and Steve Beckmen, Beckmen Vineyards is the oldest biodynamic vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, producing some of the most acclaimed Rhone varietal wines in California. Visitors are welcome at Beckmen’s wine tasting cottage and picturesque picnic area 11am–5pm daily. 2670 Ontiveros Rd., Los Olivos; 805 688-8664; BeckmenVineyards.com Buttonwood Farm Winery In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Visit the tasting room at 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang. Open 11am–5pm daily. 805 6883032; ButtonwoodWinery.com Cambria Estate Winery Farming for over 25 years, Cambria specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They are committed to sustainable practices in both the vineyard and in the winery. Visit the tasting room 10am–5pm. 5475 Chardonnay Lane, Santa Maria; 805 938-7318; CambriaWines.com Casa Dumetz Making wine from their organic vineyard in Malibu and from the Tierra Alta vineyard in Santa Ynez. Visit the tasting room Thu noon– 7pm, Fri–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun 11am–6pm or by appointment. 388 Bell St., Los Alamos. 805 344-1900; CasaDumetzWines.com Consilience Producing some of Santa Barbara’s boldest, most expressive Syrah. Sister labels Marianello and Tre Anelli carry the tradition in food-friendly Spanish and Italian varietals. All three labels make wines with unique flavor intensity and source from vineyards in Santa Barbara County. 2923 Grand Ave., Los Olivos; 805 691-1020; ConsilienceWines.com 74 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
Foxen Winery & Vineyard Bill Wathen and Dick Doré have been making wine together since 1985, when they founded Foxen Winery & Vineyard at the historic Rancho Tinaquaic in northern Santa Barbara County. Visit the two tasting rooms at 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. Open daily 11am–4pm. 805 937-4251; FoxenVineyard.com
Municipal Winemakers After spending their formative years traveling and studying terroir and techniques, Municipal Wine is now working hard to make honest, interesting and delicious wines for the people of this world. They do this with love—carefully and slowly. Tasting room at 22 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara and 425 Bell Street, Los Alamos. 805 931-6884; MunicipalWinemakers.com
The Good Life A craft beer and wine cellar featuring California craft beers and central coast wines. Open daily Sun–Thu noon–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–11pm. 1672 Mission Dr. (Hwy. 246) Solvang. TheGoodLifeCellar.com
Qupé For 30 years, Qupé has been dedicated to producing handcrafted Rhône varietals and Chardonnay from California’s Central Coast. Employing traditional winemaking techniques and biodynamic farming practices, they are true to type and speak of their vineyard sources. Open daily 11am–5pm. 2963 Grand Ave., Suite B, Los Olivos; 805 686-4200; Qupe.com
Grassini Family Vineyards Boutique winery specializing in handcrafted production of Bordeaux varietals. They focus on farming the vineyard to its fullest potential using renewable and sustainable resources. An artisan approach helps make wines that represent the uniqueness of Happy Canyon. Tasting room 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 897-3366; GrassiniFamilyVineyards.com The Hitching Post II The Hitching Post II offers their own worldclass Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Wines. Open daily except major holidays. Cocktails/ wine tasting at 4pm, dinners only 5–9:30pm. 406 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton. 805 688-0676; HitchingPost2.com Les Marchands Wine Bar and Merchant A world-class experience in a relaxing atmosphere, free of intimidation. Pick out a bottle from the extensive wine shop or enjoy shared plates and a glass at the wine bar. Open daily 11am–10pm; until midnight Fri and Sat. 131 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara; 805 284-0380; LesMarchandsWine.com Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café Specializing in premium California wines with a focus on highlighting the Central Coast. They feature Bernat Wines, which are estate grown and made by owner Sam Marmorstein. Open daily 11:30am–8:30pm. 2879 Grand Ave., Los Olivos. 805 688-7265; LosOlivosCafe.com Margerum Wine Company Margerum Wine Company is committed to creating handcrafted wines using only the highest-quality grapes so that they can make wines that are indicative of the place where they are grown. They have two tasting rooms located in the historic El Paseo complex: Margerum Tasting Room and MWC32, which features their reserve and limited production wines. Daily noon–6pm with the last tasting at 5:30pm; MargerumWineCompany.com Martian Ranch & Vineyard We take our farming more seriously then we take ourselves. Come to Martian Ranch & Vineyard where you can experience wine tastings, weekend tours of the vineyard, daily tours of the winery, farming lessons and scenic picnic areas! 805 344-1804; MartianVineyard.com
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery Since 1973 Riverbench has produced some of Santa Barbara County’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. With their initial harvest in 2006, they have now begun producing their own wines with winemaker Clarissa Nagy. Tasting Room is open from 10am–4pm daily. 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria. 805 937-8340; Riverbench.com Refugio Ranch Vineyards Their family believes that it is “terroir” that gives a wine its soul. They grow 26 acres of organic grapes on their vineyard overlooking the Santa Ynez Valley, and they feel deeply connected to the land and its remarkable terroir. Visit their beautiful tasting room at 2990 Grand in Los Olivos to explore the current releases. Thu, Sun & Mon 11am–5pm; Fri & Sat 11am–7pm. 805 688-5400; RefugioRanch.com Sanford Winery Home to the oldest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in Santa Barbara County, Sanford produces distinctly complex wines from their iconic vineyards. Make reservations for a VIP tasting or stop by to sample a flight at their picturesque tasting room. Downtown SB location coming soon! 5010 Santa Rosa Rd., Lompoc; 800 426-9463; SanfordWinery.com The Winehound The award-winning Winehound features the world’s best wines—from the everyday to a luxury cuvée—all top dogs, no mutts. Open Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun noon–6pm. 3849 State St., Santa Barbara. 805 845-5247; TheWinehound.com Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards A Santa Ynez Valley estate winery dedicated to Rhone varieties. Since 1972, they have handcrafted wines from grapes grown in their vineyards to express their distinct character and genuine quality. Open daily 10am–4pm. 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos. 805 688-9339 ext. 308; ZacaMesa.com
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edible Source Guide Maps
. RRAY RD MCM U
OF THE FLAG S
OLD MILL RD.
MISSION D R .
AL R ALIS
FIGUEROA MTN. RD.
9 2 mi
The Family School 5.4 mi 17
SAN MARCOS AVE.
SA N ALTA ST.
ALAMO PINTADO AVE.
ALAMO PINTADO AVE.
M AR CO
ON TIV ER
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E N. R
1. Refugio Ranch Vineyards 2. Qupé 3. Alta Maria Vineyards 4. Consilience and Tre Anelli 5. Olive Hill Farm 6. Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe 7. Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. 8. Global Gardens 9. Ballard Inn & Restaurant 10. Los Olivos Grocery 11. Rancho Olivos 12. Beckmen Vineyards 13. Zaca Mesa Winery 14. Foxen Winery 15. Riverbench Winery 16. Cambria Winery 17. The Family School
Los Olivos & Ballard
SANTA BARBARA AVE.
ALAMO PINTADO RD.
TO HWY 101
BALLARD CANYON RD.
28.1mi 19.6mi 17mi 9.5mi
FOXEN CANYON RD.
16 15 14 13
1. Valley Brewers 2. Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 3. Fresco Valley Café 4. Solvang Visitors Bureau 5. Cecco Ristorante 6. The Good Life 7. Root 246 8. New Frontiers 9. Buttonwood Farm LAUREL AVE. and Winery
1. Central Coast Specialty Foods 2. Lompoc Wine Ghetto 7TH ST.
1. Hitching Post II 2. Buellton Visitors Bureau 3. Ken Brown Tasting Room 4. Alma Rosa Tasting Room 5. New West Catering 6. Industrial Eats 7. Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. and Beto’s Place 8. Sanford Winery
ALAMO PINTADO RD.
WAITE ST. WICKENDEN ST.
BELL STR EET
Martian Vineyards Santa Barbara
2 CENTENNIAL ST.
3.22 Miles From Hwy 101 ALISOS CANYON RD.
CE NT RA LA VE .
7. Martian Vineyards
1. Full of Life Flatbread 2. Municipal Winemakers 3. Babi’s Beer Emporium 4. Casa Dumetz 5. Bell Street Farm 6. Bob’s Well Bread Bakery
D. SR O
edible Source Guide Maps VIA RE
EZ A VE.
Carpinteria TO SANTA BARBARA
LINDE N 9T
. AV E N
LI N DE
LI N DE
Montecito AV E .
LE R CAL
JUICE RANCH 6533 TRIGO RD. ISLA VISTA
C OAST VILLAG
5. Community West Bank 6. Goodland Kitchen 7. Juice Ranch 8. Isla Vista Food Co-op
SAN YISIDRO RD.
R OLIVE MILL
YO AN N R D .
2. Massage Envy 3. Backyard Bowls 4. Simply Pies
SS PA AS SIT
E. VALLEY RD.
1. Here’s the Scoop 2. Cava Restaurant & Bar 3. Tecolote Bookstore 4. American Riveria Bank
1 1. Fairview Gardens
TO SANTA BARBARA
R TE IN RP
1. Island Brewing Co. 2. Giannfranco’s Trattoria 3. Sly’s 4. Crazy Good Bread
P I N TER
1. Dos Carlitos Restaurant & Tequila Bar 2. Baker’s Table 3. Carr Winery 4. SY Kitchen
SANT A YN
IV FOOD CO-OP 6575 SEVILLE RD. ISLA VISTA
RD I PE N
GA RD T. EN LI S
NT EC IT O
CE 101 SA
ST . 1 RILLO ST. B A C
ST 4 2 AT E ST .
ST . CA
23 U 24
U AP AM
BA RB AR A AN ST . AC AP 19 ST A 20 AT ST E . 9 ST. 21 22 CH 7 AP 8 AL DE A ST LA . CA VI 6 NA ST ILL ST 5 . O ST .
SA NT A
16 11 12 10 17 18
NA RE LT O HE IC M
. RA V I A DR ST
CLIF F D R.
17. Isabella Gourmet Foods 18. American Riveria Bank 19. Sojourner Café 20. C’est Cheese 21. The Wine Cask 21. Grassini Family Vineyards 21. Au Bon Climat 21. Margerum Wines 22. Book Ends Café 23. Telegraph Brewing Co. 24. Carr Winery 25. Plow to Porch 26. Renaud’s, Loreto Plaza 27. Il Fustino 28. Whole Foods 29. The Winehound 30. Backyard Bowls, La Cumbre 31. Mesa Produce 32. Lazy Acres
ST AT E
1. Municipal Winemakers 2. The Lark 2. Lucky Penny 2. Les Marchands Wine Bar and Merchant 3. Riverbench Winery 4. Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. 5. Juice Ranch 6. Backyard Bowls, Downtown SB 6. Chocolate Maya 7. McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams 8. Grapeseed Co. 9. Plum Goods 10. Scarlett Begonia 11. Bouchon Santa Barbara 12. Arlington Tavern 13. SB Public Market 13. The Pasta Shoppe 13. Il Fustino 13. Cazy Good Bread 14. Renaud’s, Arlington Plaza 15. Ca’ Dario Pizzeria 16. Sama Sama 17. Sanford Tasting Room 17. Cielito Restaurant
25 STATE ST.
. INE D R REL HO
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the last Bite Fall’s Don’t-Miss Dish by Liz Do dder
Roasted Local Vegetables at Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café Chef Chris Joslyn sources all the vegetables from local farmers and changes the mix seasonally. Fall will feature local vegetables served with smoked mozzarella, arugula and house-made tapenade.
Chef Joslyn roasts the vegetables on separate pans at 400°– 450°, to get the exact amount of softness and caramelization for each one. This can take 25– 45 minutes; you’ll need to taste them to make sure each pan is done. He then heats a skillet or cast-iron pan, places smoked mozzarella in the middle and piles on the veggies, adding a dollop of tapenade and a smattering of arugula.
Chef Joslyn uses Rancho Olivos extra-virgin olive oil from Santa Ynez in this and other dishes at the Café. Since the first harvest, owner
Shannon Casey has invited folks to visit the farm and taste the oils right next to the olive trees that produce them. The Caseys farm the trees sustainably, tend the orchards themselves, handpick the olives during harvest and have them sent to be milled within a few hours of picking. To make the oils, the Caseys blend olives from two varietals: Frantoio and Leccino.
Farmer Jacob Grant of Los Olivos Roots Organic Farm and Santa Ynez farmer Steve Loyal supply almost all the vegetables in the dish. Joslyn knows he can rely on Grant’s famously sweet carrots, even if Grant isn’t so consistent: “Jacob never looks the same; you never know what you’ll get when he walks in.” Joslyn also says Steve Loyal is a great storyteller and gives him advice on his own garden. “I grow vegetables at home, things like kale, lettuce, radishes, which I also bring in to the restaurant. Steve loves to talk shop, and my garden is a happy recipient.” 80 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2014
A PLACE LIKE NO OTHER.
150 R E VI E WS O F
S I N CE 19 92
E STATE G ROWN AN D P RO D U CE D I N TH E SANTA MAR IA VALLE Y, CA .
© 2014 Cambria Winery, Santa Maria, CA
C A M BR I A E S TAT E W I N E S