Edible Santa Barbara Late Summer/Fall 2023

Good as Gold

Three Santa Barbara County Vineyards Mark 50 Years

KRISTA HARRIS

FEATURES

26 Eat (and Cook) Like a Chef (Part 2) by

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

32 A New Paradigm for Poultry

How Regenerative Farms are Rethinking Chicken by Twilight Greenaway

38 Good as Gold

Three Santa Barbara County

Vineyards Mark 50 Years by Wendy Thies Sell

44 In a Bowl by Pascale Beal

Late Summer/ Fall 2023

46

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

Breakfast Dishes and Condiments

15 Chickpea Breakfast Bowl

18 Spiced Plum Jam

Salads and Side Dishes

49 Green Tomato and Toasted Pepitas Salad

46 Grilled Corn Salad with Pine Nut Pesto

50 Peach Salad

16 Roasted Delicata Squash

Desserts

20 Mission Fig and Whipped Feta Tart

53 Roasted White Peaches with Lavender and Créme Fraîche

Beverages

25 The Let Me Take You Down Cocktail

Zaca Mesa Vineyard . Photography by Mike Larson.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Looking Back/Looking Ahead

It’s been 15 years since my husband, Steve Brown, and I started Edible Santa Barbara. Our first issue came out in March 2009. But at this time of year, 15 years ago, we were already at work on it.

I remember my friend Harriet Eckstein bringing a copy of Edible Finger Lakes back from a visit to upstate New York in June 2008. She handed the magazine to me and said it looked like something I’d like. After reading it cover to cover, I reached out to Edible Communities founders Tracey Ryder and Carole Topalian and asked why there wasn’t an Edible Santa Barbara. Until then, I had no idea there was more than just Edible Ojai —the first of what in the next two decades would become about 80 locally owned and edited Edibles all across the U.S. and Canada.

After learning that it was possible to start an Edible magazine by acquiring a license agreement, I was hooked. It didn’t take long to make the decision to start my own Edible magazine. Luckily, I had the help of Steve, who had just retired from UCSB. With my background in editing and publishing combined with a passion for local food and cooking plus Steve’s talent as an artist and graphic designer, we were ready. Of course, we had much to learn and discover about the food and wine culture of Santa Barbara. But our role as publishers of Edible Santa Barbara gave us a front-row seat. And the journey has been the most rewarding one of my life.

This journey continues to inspire me, but I also know that it’s time to make a change. Steve is retiring once again, and I’m ready to take on something new. We’re looking for a new partner or owner for the magazine so that the next 15 years will be as vibrant as the last. If you know of someone who would be a perfect fit, please reach out to me. In the meantime, we’ll still be publishing. And I’m still here—as passionate as ever about the magazine and our community.

I want to thank all our writers and photographers who have contributed over the years and the people behind the scenes, like our copy editor, Doug Adrianson, and recipe tester, Nancy Oster, who have been with us since the first issue. And I especially want to thank our advertisers, many of whom have been with us throughout. You are the real heroes of our community—you’ve actively supported the magazine and the local food movement. And to our readers, it’s hard to put into words just how much I appreciate you. Thank you for reading Edible Santa Barbara and supporting us in so many ways. Your love of this magazine has kept me going and continues to inspire me with each issue.

Member of Edible Communities

Edible Communities

James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)

PUBLISHER & EDITOR

Krista Harris

RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster

COPY EDITING & PROOFING

Doug Adrianson

DESIGNER

Steven Brown

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Tara Howard

SOCIAL MEDIA

Liz Dodder

Jill Johnson

CONTRIBUTORS

Pascale Beale

Jane Chapman

Liz Dodder

Twilight Greenaway

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

Wendy Thies Sell

Carole Topalian

George Yatchisin

ADVISORY GROUP

Pascale Beale, Jordan benShea, Rosminah Brown, Janice Cook Knight, Katie Hershfelt, Jill Johnson, Nancy Oster

ADVERTISING

ads@ediblesantabarbara.com

Krista Harris, Editor and Publisher

Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

Steve Brown and Krista Harris.

in Season this Fall

FALL PRODUCE

Artichokes

Asparagus

Avocados

Basil

Beans, green

Blackberries

Blueberries

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Cantaloupe

Celery

Cherimoya

Chiles

Chives

Cilantro

Collards

Corn

Cucumber

Dill

Eggplant

Fennel

Figs

Grapefruit

Grapes

Kiwi

Lavender

Limes

Melons

Mint

Mustard greens

Nectarines

YEAR-ROUND PRODUCE

Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)

Apples

Arugula

Beans, dried

Beets

Bok choy

Broccoli

Carrots

Cauliflower

Chard

Dandelion

FALL SEAFOOD

Mussels

Ridgeback shrimp

Rock fish

Sardines

Spiny lobster

Swordfish

White sea bass

Yellowtail

YEAR-ROUND SEAFOOD

Abalone (farmed)

EGGPLANT

Dates (harvested Sept/Oct)

Edible flowers

Garlic (harvested May/June)

Herbs (Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)

Kale

Leeks

Lemons

Lettuce

Mushrooms

Onions, bulb (harvested May/June)

Oranges

Onions, green bunching

Papayas

Peaches

Peppers

Persimmon

Plums/Pluots

Pomegranate

Raspberries

Squash, summer

Strawberries

Tangerines/Mandarins

Tomatillo

Tomatoes

Turnips

Watermelon

Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Potatoes

Radishes

Raisins (harvested Sept/Oct)

Spinach

Sprouts

Squash, winter (harvested July/Oct)

Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Black cod

Clams

Oysters

Rock crab

Pacific sand dabs

Urchin

OTHER

YEAR-ROUND

Eggs

Coffee (limited availability)

Dairy (Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Fresh flowers

Honey

Olives, olive oil

Meat (Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)

Potted plants/herbs

Preserves

Wheat (Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)

Yams (harvested Aug/Sept) PASTA

BOK CHOY

SPINACH

POTATOES

URCHIN

SPINY LOBSTER

OYSTERS

ALMONDS

HONEY

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

GRAPES

MAKE YOUR OWN BREAD PET!

Sourdough Starter

Day 1: Mix

1. Place an empty jar on a kitchen scale and set the scale to zero.

2. Add 100 g (⅚ cup, or ½ + ⅓ cup) of flour and 100 g (about ⅖ cup or 6 ½ tbsp) of water to the jar.

3. Stir until all dry parts are mixed in.

4. Keep this mixture somewhere warm, between 70°F to 75°F, but out of direct sunlight.

Day 2: Feed

1. Place another empty jar on the kitchen scale and set the scale to zero.

2. Scoop in 200 g (about 1 cup) of the mixture you made on Day 1. Compost or throw away the rest (this will make sure your Bread Pet stays a manageable size).

3. Add 100 g (⅚ cup, or ½ + ⅓ cup) of flour and 100 g (about ⅖ cup or 6 ½ tbsp) of water.

4. Mix well until all dry parts are mixed in.

5. Cover and place in the same warm spot as Day 1.

6. Repeat steps 1–5 daily for at least 5 days.

Congratulations, you’ve just created your own Bread Pet. Now you’re ready to bake some bread!

You’ll Need

∙ adult helper

∙ water (tap left out overnight or distilled works best)

∙ 700 g (about 6 cups) flour (rye or whole wheat works best)

∙ 2 clean glass jars

∙ kitchen scale (optional, but recommended for best results) or measuring cup

Note

Sourdough starters need a few days to ferment, or for the fungi and bacteria to produce the gases and acids that make the bread rise and give it its sour taste. They ferment faster in warm places and more slowly in cold ones.

Bread Pet Tips

∙ Keep your Bread Pet in a container with a loose-fitting lid so that it gets some air but doesn’t completely dry out.

∙ Feed your Bread Pet daily or keep it in the fridge if you want to feed it weekly instead. You can tell that your starter needs food when it is bubbling, at least twice its original size, and starting to collapse.

∙ If you don’t want to throw away the extra when you feed your Bread Pet, you can add it to dough for pancakes, waffles or crackers to make them extra tangy.

Are you passionate about children’s books that prioritize diversity, encourage critical thinking and teach kids to protect the planet? Learn more about becoming a Barefoot Books Community Bookseller! Visit barefootbooks.com/cb

Let’s Bake Bread!

Mix

1. Whisk the Bread Pet, water and olive oil in a large bowl. Add the flour and salt.

2. Squish everything together with your hands until all the flour is absorbed.

3. Let it rest for 30 minutes.

4. Collect the dough into a rough ball.

First Rise

1. Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel. Leave it in a warm, sunny spot to rise.

2. Wait for your dough to double in size (3–12 hours, depending on temperature).

Stretch and Fold

1. Place the dough on a clean, floured surface. Coat your hands with flour.

2. Grab the far end of the dough and pull it up, stretching it without breaking it. Fold it back on itself.

3. Repeat step 2, stretching from the left, right and near ends of the dough.

4. Flip the dough over.

5. Repeat steps 2–4 a few times.

Second Rise

1. Cover the bottom of your Dutch oven with parchment paper or coat it with cornmeal to prevent sticking.

2. Place the dough inside for a second shorter rise, about 1–2 hours. It is ready when the dough is slightly puffy.

Bake

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

You’ll Need

∙ adult helper

∙ 150 g (1 cup) hungry Bread Pet

∙ 1 cup warm water (about 105°F)

∙ 2 tbsp olive oil

∙ 420 g (3 ½ cups) flour (bread flour works best)

∙ 1 tbsp salt

∙ parchment or greaseproof paper

∙ Dutch oven, casserole dish or heavy baking pot with lid

∙ kitchen towel

∙ serrated knife

∙ thermometer (optional)

∙ cornmeal (optional)

2. With the serrated knife, make a shallow slash about 2 in long in the middle of the loaf. You can make a few slashes if you want.

3. Place your Dutch oven, with dough inside and lid on, into your preheated oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F.

4. Bake for 20 minutes.

5. Remove the lid and continue to bake, uncovered, for an additional 40 minutes or until bread is a deep golden brown.

6. Remove the bread from the oven and let it cool for at least 1 hour before slicing. Don’t cut too soon or else the inside will have a gooey texture!

Cora promises to keep Uncle JB’s Bread Pet alive but didn’t anticipate its exponential growth! She needs to come up with a solution — and fast! barefootbooks.com/bread-pet

Illustration and text adapted from The Bread Pet (Barefoot Books), written by Kate DePalma and illustrated by Nelleke Verhoeff

ACTIVITY

Scoop of Thanks Meal Start your meal with gratitude.

1. Find a large serving spoon to be your Scoop of Thanks spoon. Decorate it with stickers or ribbons.

2. Before you sit down to eat a meal with your family, pass the spoon around the table. When each person holds the spoon, they take a turn to say something they are grateful for. Listen carefully as each person speaks.

3. Keep the spoon somewhere special and use it once a week, every evening or however often you choose.

4. You could also keep a gratitude journal to draw or write down the things everyone shares at your Scoop of Thanks Meals.

You , ll Need:

• serving spoon

• stickers or ribbons

OPTIONAL:

• pencil or pen

• journal

Discover 50 unique games, crafts and mindfulness activities to help kids develop empathy and respect for themselves, their loved ones and the wider world.

Illustration and text adapted from Kind Kids (Barefoot Books), written by Dr. Helen Maffini and Whitney Stewart and illustrated by Mariana Ruiz Johnson

seasonal Recipe

Chickpea Breakfast Bowl

Msabaha, often described as the rustic cousin of hummus, is often eaten for breakfast in Lebanon. This is my take on the dish, topped with a soft-cooked egg, and I think it works equally well for brunch, lunch or dinner. Feel free to get creative with the garnishes. In addition to or instead of the ones I’ve suggested below, you could try a dollop of Greek yogurt, toasted pine nuts or diced peppers.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

Olive oil

2 cloves garlic, sliced

1 can chickpeas

Salt and pepper

Dash za’atar spice blend or cumin

3 tablespoons tahini

Juice of 1 ⁄2 lemon

2 eggs, soft cooked for 7–8 minutes, peeled and cut in half

For garnish: chopped cucumber and tomato, feta cheese, chopped fresh herbs, harissa or red chili flakes

Serve with sourdough or pita bread.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic. As soon as it sizzles slightly, add the whole can of chickpeas (with the liquid from the can or about 6 ounces of water). Season with salt, pepper and a dash of za’atar or cumin. Simmer over medium heat until the liquid is reduced by about half. Remove from heat and take about ¼ cup of the whole chickpeas out, reserving for garnish.

Add the tahini and lemon juice and combine very briefly with an immersion blender or by hand, mashing the chickpeas, but leaving a slightly chunky texture. Pour the mixture into two bowls and top each with an egg. Garnish with the reserved chickpeas, cucumber, tomatoes, feta, parsley and harissa or chili flakes. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Serve with toasted sourdough slices or pita bread.

—Krista Harris

Recipe

Roasted Delicata Squash

Delicata squash starts hitting the markets in late summer and continues on through fall. I love the flavor of this squash when it’s roasted. It needs nothing more than olive oil, salt and pepper, but a little za’atar spice makes it even better.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

1 Delicata squash

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

Za’atar spice blend, optional

Preheat oven to 450°F and place a large baking sheet in it.

Cut the ends off the squash and cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard the seeds and any stringy fibers. Cut into ¾–1-inch slices and toss in a large bowl with olive oil, salt and pepper, adding a sprinkle of za’atar if you like.

Carefully add the squash to the hot pan and roast for 10–15 minutes, or until caramelized and browned. Great served hot or room temperature. Leftovers can be stored and eaten cold the next day on salads.

Homemade Za’atar Spice Blend

Based on recipe posted by Sylvia Fontaine on the Feasting at Home website. This recipe comes from her Egyptian father. There are many variations on za’atar—some leave out the cumin and coriander, some include marjoram or oregano, but sumac is a key ingredient.

YIELDS ABOUT 1⁄2 CUP

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 tablespoon cumin

1 tablespoon coriander

1 tablespoon thyme

1 tablespoon sumac

1 ⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 ⁄4 teaspoon Aleppo chili flakes (or to taste)

Toast sesame seeds and set aside. Toast cumin and coriander. Then grind with sesame seeds. Stir in thyme, sumac, salt and chili flakes. Store in sealed container.

—Krista Harris

seasonal Recipe

Spiced Plum Jam

The flavors of autumn shine in this jam. Many plum varieties are available from May to December. If you had a big harvest of plums earlier in the summer and froze them, now is a great time to make this jam. This recipe is for a small batch, which is nice for experimenting with additions of spices. And I find it easier to store in the refrigerator or freezer rather than processing it to be shelf stable.

2 1 ⁄2 pounds whole plums

1 large lemon

2 cups sugar

Pinch of salt

Dash of cinnamon, allspice, ginger and/or nutmeg

Cut the plums into quarters or slices and remove the pits on a cutting board placed over a half sheet pan to catch the juices. The pitted plums and juice should weigh about 2 pounds.

Add the plums, any juice, the juice of the lemon, sugar, salt and other spices in a 4-quart or larger saucepan. A small dash of the spices will give a subtle flavor and a more generous amount of the spices will be more pronounced, so add to taste. Combine thoroughly with a wooden spoon and bring to a boil. While cooking, you can use a potato masher to make it smoother.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until it reaches 217–220°F or has thickened to jam consistency. This takes about 15 to 25 minutes. You can use the “plate test” by putting a small amount on a plate that has been in the freezer for a few minutes. As it cools, give the jam a nudge; if it wrinkles and there is surface tension, it is set. If it’s still very runny, give it another 5 minutes. Remember, the jam will thicken once it’s cooled. Let sit for 5–10 minutes, then fill sterile jars, leaving some space at the top. Add the tops and let cool, then store in the refrigerator or freezer. It will last in the refrigerator 1–3 months and in the freezer 6–12 months.

—Krista Harris

Photo: Nell Campbell

Recipe

Mission Fig and Whipped

Feta Tart with Thyme and Spiced Honey

by Jane Chapman

This is one of my favorite recipes for entertaining because it checks all the right boxes: It is made ahead, delicious, simple, vegetarian and gorgeous. Each bite captures the essence of the season by combining flavors of both savory and sweet with rich textures from the pine nut crust and creamy whipped feta filling. This recipe transforms all the best parts of a cheeseboard into a meal. Shout out to Drake Family Farms as my favorite local and organic source of goat cheese at our farmers market. Another savory addition is to include shaved prosciutto piled high atop the figs or served alongside to please any meat eaters or make the meal more substantial.

I prefer to make the tart crust and filling a day ahead so that all I have to do is bring the whipped feta to room temperature and quickly assemble the tart before my guests arrive. The total prep and cook time is about two hours. This tart is best served at room temperature and eaten shortly after you assemble the toppings. Serve this tart with a simple mixed-lettuces salad with plenty of acid in the vinaigrette.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE DOUGH

3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

1 1 ⁄4 cups all-purpose flour, and a bit more for rolling out the dough

1 ⁄4 tablespoon kosher salt

1 ⁄2 cup chilled European-style unsalted butter

2–4 tablespoons ice water

FOR THE FILLING

1 ⁄2 cup feta cheese

1 ⁄2 cup soft goat cheese

1 ⁄2 cup cream cheese

Pinch of kosher salt

FOR THE TOPPING:

2 baskets Mission figs, quartered

1 cup purple basil leaves

2 tablespoons of chili-infused wildflower honey or plain honey

TO MAKE THE DOUGH

Place the pine nuts in a food processor and pulse until crushed but not so much that it turns to a paste.

In a bowl, combine the flour, ground pine nuts and salt. Mix the butter into the flour until it is about pea size. Slowly add the cold water, stirring gradually until the dough comes together without it being too moist and sticky. Turn the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and shape it into a disk. Wrap it and refrigerate for at least an hour or up to 2 weeks.

TO MAKE THE FILLING

Bring the cheeses to room temperature. Place the cheeses and salt in the food processor and gently pulse until the cheeses are combined. Set aside if you plan to assemble the tart immediately; to wait, refrigerate and bring to room temperature shortly before you are ready to assemble and serve.

TO BAKE AND ASSEMBLE THE TART

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and lay on a lightly floured work surface. Using a flour-dusted rolling pin, gently roll the dough into a 12-inch disk. Butter a 10-inch tart tin with a removable bottom and lay the disk of dough on top. Working quickly and gently, press the dough into the bottom and side walls of the tin. Cut off any excess dough around the edges. Using a fork, poke a few holes in the bottom and freeze for 15 minutes.

Remove from the freezer and line with parchment paper and pie weights. Place the tart on a sheet pan and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the weights and parchment and bake for an additional 15–20 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool on a baking sheet for at least 30 minutes. Do not remove the bottom of the tin.

Bring whipped feta to room temperature, quarter the figs and remove the basil leaves from the stem. Working from the center out, spread the cheese filling in the tart. Remove the tart from the tin and place on a serving tray. Lastly, arrange the sliced figs, sprinkle the basil leaves and drizzle with spiced honey.

Jane Chapman is a Santa Barbara native, has a lifetime of experience in the kitchen and recipe development and has worked in the restaurant business for over 20 years. She prides herself on simple, delicious and

CRUST

Crisp and flaky

FAT

Lard is classic but many pie bakers use a mix of lard, or shortening and butter, for flaky texture and delicious flavor

CONSTRUCTION

Just a bottom crust— or bottom and top

CRUST

CONSTRUCTION

Just a bottom crust, folded in at the edges

Usually a bit thicker and a little more robust FAT

Butter is traditional

FILLING

Fruit is common but there are vegetable, olive, and potato galettes

DISH

No dish; bake this freeform pastry on a cookie sheet.

SERVE

Slide onto a plate or stand

WHAT ELSE?

The Italian crostata is basically the same thing

FILLING

Either sweet (fruit) or savory (meat, fish, mushrooms)—a deeper dish means more filling-to-crust ratio

DISH

Sloped sides, round

SERVE

Straight from the dish

WHAT ELSE?

FILLING

Sweet or savory (tomato, caramelized onion, cheese). A shallower dish means less filling/crust

DISH

Straight sides, often with a scalloped edge and removable bottom. Round, square, or rectangular.

SERVE

CONSTRUCTION

Bottom crust only

CRUST

Firm and crumbly, leaning toward a shortbread

FAT

Butter is traditional

WHAT ELSE?

Often with a scoop of ice cream

Unmold to a pretty plate or cake stand

“Tart” means someone of loose morals, but it was once a compliment for young women who dressed up with lots of ribbons—as pretty as jam tarts.

Concocting a Late-Summer Smash

WORDS BY George Yatchisin

It might just be because people tended to pen mixology history a few rounds in, but most origin tales in the cocktail world blur if you drink them too deeply. Take the smash, which isn’t just what any self-respecting Hulk might care to do, but a style of cocktail kicking around for over 150 years.

Juleps were probably the original smashes, but the style has become a subject of interpretation ever since. Want some other green besides mint? Sure! Care to have bourbon and not brandy in your julep? Well, nobody really used brandy for them after Professor Jerry Thomas in the first bartending book. (Not to mention that importing French brandy got expensive and domestically there was Kentucky bourbon to be had.)

Let’s put it this way: Making a drink should be about pleasure, so follow your boozy passion. Simply mix some spirit, some herb, some sugar, some seasonal fruit. Since it’s late summer, I thought it’s time for berries, and while this recipe is built around strawberries, it works fine with blackberries if that’s what you grow or spy at the farmers market. Not only are strawberries seasonal, they are local par excellence—pretty much every year they are the top agricultural crop for Santa Barbara County. I’ll drink to that.

As sweet as peak-season berries can be, they play well cut with some savory notes—think balsamic vinegar and strawberries over vanilla ice cream, say. The Let Me Take You Down Cocktail takes advantage of that flavor profile by using another bumper summer crop, basil, and on top of that some

crucial grinds of black pepper. That slap of spice gives the drink a bit of a kick and a lot more dimension, so don’t leave it out. As you probably know as an Edible reader, basil and mint are both part of the Lamiaceae plant family, so in some ways are similar in flavor. Basil, however, leans savory while mint often comes off as sweet (partially because we use it in so many sweet things, from chewing gum to those delightful juleps in our second paragraph).

Since this issue’s drink also includes simple syrup, you don’t need to keep building the sweet side with other ingredients. Simple syrup always ups a cocktail’s viscosity, beyond just bringing the sugar. Think about how berry preserves can seem berrier than the fruit itself—that’s what you’re shooting for. You also cut that sweet with the lemon juice, although if you use Meyer lemons it’s not as puckering as some citrus varieties, of course. Instead, you keep achieving a kind of balance.

The liquor at the heart of the drink is also notable for its poise: Cutler’s Artisan Spirits Stagecoach Whiskey. This blend of high-rye and high-corn whiskeys aged for seven years is mellow and welcoming; some have suggested it’s a gateway drink for those unsure of dark liquor. It certainly is a satisfying summer pour, bringing enough caramel, vanilla and baking spice notes to please even connoisseurs. At a moderate 80 proof, it even allows for weekend day drinking.

And then there’s the wild card that smashes a bit outside the usual smash prototype, the Bonal Gentiane Quina. Carving out a delicious space between an amaro and a sweet vermouth, this French fortified aperitif wine is infused with a host of botanicals including cinchona or quinine, so will keep you from contracting malaria to boot. (Note: I am not a doctor, I only play one in a cocktail column.) The brand’s importer, Haus Alpenz, claims, “Bonal is an excellent choice for adding a bitter edge and robust texture,” and that’s not just ad copy puffery— it’s exactly what the liqueur brings to this cocktail. Because summer needs some sizzle in its sultry serenity.

George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.

RECIPE

The Let Me Take You Down Cocktail

MAKES 2

5 medium strawberries

2 smaller strawberries (for garnish)

6 basil leaves

2 smaller basil leaves (for garnish)

1 ounce simple syrup (see below)

1 1 ⁄2 ounces fresh Meyer lemon juice

4 ounces whiskey (Cutler’s Stagecoach True American Whiskey recommended)

1 ⁄2 ounces Bonal Gentiane Quina

11 grinds fresh black pepper

Slice up the 5 medium strawberries and add to a cocktail shaker with the 6 larger basil leaves and the simple syrup. Muddle to pulverize/juice the berries. Add the lemon juice, whiskey, Bonal and ice. Add 11 grinds of fresh black pepper. Shake well to chill and further integrate the fruit flavor and color. Double strain into two coupes. You will need that muddler again to get all the liquid through the fine-mesh strainer and to get some more juice out of the strawberries. (Note: If you do the substitution with blackberries, they are even tougher-skinned and will need more mushing at this step.) Garnish each glass by floating a small basil leaf atop and placing a cut berry on the glass rim.

SIMPLE SYRUP

1 cup white sugar

1 cup water

Mix the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Bring to a light boil and then lower to simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool. Store in a jar in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

(Part 2)

EAT (AND COOK) LIKE A Chef

Discover fresh kitchen inspiration and savor the bounty of the season by tapping into the culinary wisdom of four local chefs.

WORDS BY Hana-Lee Sedgwick

In our last issue, I engaged in delightful conversations with four local chefs, all of whom graciously shared their top tips for finding fresh inspiration in the kitchen. Given the wealth of culinary talent in our area, we decided to extend this gastronomic Q&A into the current season, tapping more of these food maestros for their wisdom. Late summer into fall is a wonderful time to experiment in the kitchen or fire up the grill with gusto, so let’s follow the lead of these local chefs and immerse ourselves in the diverse bounty the season offers. Bon appétit!

Carmen “Daisy” Deforest

Chef/Owner, The Daisy (Santa Barbara)

Carmen “Daisy” Deforest and her husband, Dominic Shiach, are the team behind The Daisy, which has become a cherished dining destination in Santa Barbara’s vibrant Arts District since opening four years ago. Here, Chef Deforest masterfully fuses fresh, seasonal California produce with the exotic flavors of the Levant to create a menu that is elevated yet approachable, and always satisfying.

What is your favorite local ingredient to use right now?

I know that everyone will say tomatoes but… TOMATOES!!!!! Can’t get enough of tomato salads, tarts, sandwiches, cold soups, I could go on forever. Tomatoes and stone fruits epitomize summer for me.

What would you say is the most underrated ingredient or dish to incorporate into late-summer menus?

Celery! Shaved into salads with fennel, parsley, pecorino and lemon juice, so refreshing and delicious; as a cold soup with dill and crème fraîche; or juiced into poolside cocktails with a little tequila and jalapeño. I love celery.

What is your favorite thing to throw on the grill this

All the veggies: grilled zucchini, eggplant, corn, tomatoes, torpedo onions. That little kiss of char makes such a lovely change and adds so much flavor. A grilled veggie panzanella salad, with lots of capers, vinegar and herbs, is my summer dream dish. And then grill some peaches for dessert!

DANIELLE RUBI

Carmen “Daisy” Deforest.

Besides your own, which local restaurant or dish epitomizes the bounty of the season?

We love seeing so many of our hardworking local restaurant chefs at the market each week. Our go-to is Bettina, who always make seasonal produce shine on their incredible pizzas and gorgeous salads.

Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

Impossible to choose just one, but we would be lost without lettuces from both Roots Farm and The Garden of.....

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home this time of year?

On days off I love cooking with my son James, who is 17. He loves to cook and already hosts dinner parties for his friends.

We will talk about what we want to eat on the day the restaurant is closed and sometimes have a cook-off. Last time, it was who could make the best steak sandwich. His was a tri-tip with chimichurri, mine was a filet with tomato jam and fried shallots, both were delicious! And it’s always so much fun to cook together.

Do you have any tips or advice for home chefs looking to better their skills, particularly during this season?

Summer is the easiest cooking season, or non-cooking season! If you have a good vinaigrette and a good green sauce—think salsa verde/pesto—you are halfway there. Thinly slice raw or grilled summer veggies, drizzle with dressing, add loads of herbs and enjoy.

Mezze plate with beet muhammara, hummus, labneh, olives, zhoug, six-minute egg, grilled flatbread.

Nikolas Ramirez

Chef/Owner, Na Na Thai (Buellton)

After hosting their wildly popular weekly pop-up at Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos, Nikolas Ramirez and his wife, Ashley, have given Na Na Thai a more permanent presence with the recent opening of their stand-alone restaurant in Buellton. At their new venue, Chef Ramirez’s dynamic and ever-changing menu draws inspiration from the couple’s time spent living in Bangkok.

What is your favorite local ingredient to use right now?

Melon from Finley Farms. We serve them in our crudité.

What would you say is the most underrated ingredient or dish to incorporate into late-summer menus?

Barhi dates. I love them in a small window in September; they are perfect right when they get soft, but before they turn dry— it’s magic.

What is your favorite thing to throw on the grill this time of year?

Chicken or fish. We marinate them in fish sauce for at least four hours. Salt crust the fish then put it straight on the grill. The chicken is marinated in fish sauce, palm sugar, garlic, cilantro and white pepper.

Besides your own, which local restaurant or dish epitomizes the bounty of the season?

Any vegetable dish Daisy Ryan from Bell’s puts on a plate. Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

Finley Farms.

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home this time of year?

Paella. I make this with whatever is in the fridge. That’s the beauty of a paella!

Do you have any tips or advice for home chefs looking to better their skills, particularly during this season? Buy good salt and good olive oil. More importantly, cook with your heart.

Melissa Scrymgeour

Chef/Owner, Clean

Slate Wine Bar (Solvang)

Swapping a 22-year career in health insurance for the allure of the hospitality industry, Melissa Scrymgeour, alongside her husband, Jason, embarked on a new venture by launching Clean Slate Wine Bar three years ago. Since then, she has discovered her true passion: creating tapas-style delicacies that spotlight local, seasonal ingredients, perfectly designed to complement their extensive wine list.

What is your favorite local ingredient to use right now?

Fresh tomatoes, hands down! Summer tomatoes are abundant at our local farmers market in all types: heirlooms, cherry, Roma, Early Girl—you name it. To keep it light, I like to keep the cooking effort minimal using them chopped in fresh salsas or a raw tomato sauce with fresh basil and mozzarella. One of my favorite light summer dishes is tomate con pan. It’s only on the menu at Clean Slate during summer, when tomatoes are at their peak. Although simple—toasted or charred bread, tomatoes, garlic, good olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt— the flavors are beautiful and allow those tomatoes to shine!

Gai tod, fried chicken with nam jim jeaw.

Nikolas Ramirez.

CARTER HIYAMA CARTER HIYAMA

What would you say is the most underrated ingredient or dish to incorporate into late-summer menus?

I think eggplant sometimes gets a bad rap, but it’s one of my favorite ingredients for the summer because it plays well with other veggies and it’s versatile. Eggplant can be the star of a dish—think thick-cut slices sautéed until tender and creamy with plenty of good olive oil, salt and pepper, and topped with that raw tomato sauce mentioned above with a bit of pecorinoromano cheese—or can be used in a quick stir-fry with any vegetable you have around the house. There is a fear of bitter eggplant and having to salt or leach them before cooking. I find if you select firm, unbruised ones none of that is required. So please, don’t be afraid of the eggplant!

What is your favorite thing to throw on the grill this time of year?

A nice piece of fish with a bit of charred lemon, asparagus and zucchini with a side of chimichurri sauce. Chimichurri goes with everything!

Besides your own, which local restaurant or dish epitomizes the bounty of the season?

I love what Chef Brooke Stockwell does over at Los Olivos Wine Merchant. They have their own farm, so her menu always features those beautiful seasonal summer veggies. She has a

roasted vegetable appetizer with smoked mozzarella and tapenade that I adore, especially with a crisp glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

We work with many local farmers in the area. Our menu at Clean Slate rotates regularly to feature what’s available and in season at the farmers markets. You’ll find me at the Solvang Farmers Market every Wednesday. I love the tomatoes from Tutti Frutti Farms, berries from Chavez Family Farms, summer greens from Roots Farms and peaches from Burkdoll Farms. Finley Farms’ farmstand is also walking distance from my home and we source a good bit of our produce from there as well.

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home this time of year?

I was born and raised in Louisiana. My absolute favorite summertime go-to was a Creole tomato sandwich: white bread, thick cuts of those juicy tomatoes, salt, pepper and plenty of Hellmann’s mayo. Simple and perfect!

Do you have any tips or advice for home chefs looking to better their skills, particularly during this season?

With the summer heat comes grilling season. My tip is to keep the proteins and vegetables simple—a fresh cut of meat, fish or plump shrimp and seasonal veggies, with a bit of salt and pepper and olive oil. Throw together a summer tomato salsa or chimichurri and it’s all you need. Well, that and a good bottle of wine—we have plenty of great wine here, too! Cheers!

Melissa Scrymgeour.

Sweet tea and spiced brined Duroc pork tenderloin with summer corn maque choux and baked bean jus.

COURTESY OF CLEAN SLATE WINE BAR

Matthew Johnson

Executive Chef, San Ysidro Ranch (Montecito)

Santa Barbara native Matthew Johnson’s passion for the region is evident in the locally focused menus he crafts at the storied San Ysidro Ranch, including at the resort’s dining crown jewel, Stonehouse. Seamlessly blending traditional techniques with modern sensibilities, each artfully prepared dish at Stonehouse Restaurant becomes a tribute to the region’s rich bounty.

What is your favorite local ingredient to use right now?

Staying attuned to the nuances and flavor profile of what’s growing locally requires a high level of attention to detail as it

constantly evolves. Right now, my favorite ingredients for late summer are ripe stone fruits, such as the yellow peach, and summer melons.

What would you say is the most underrated ingredient or dish to incorporate into late-summer menus?

I get a local lemon balm from my friend at Seaside Gardens in Carpinteria that works seamlessly with light heirloom tomato consommés and gazpachos.

What is your favorite thing to throw on the grill this time of year?

A locally line-caught white sea bass and yellowtail from the Channel Islands.

Besides your own, which local restaurant or dish epitomizes the bounty of the season?

The concept of “eating locally” isn’t just a buzzword here; there are numerous options in this region for anyone looking to eat locally and seasonally. Recently, I’ve really enjoyed Empty Bowl in Santa Barbara. Every dish is so fresh and incredibly tasty on a late summer afternoon.

COURTESY OF SAN YSIDRO RANCH

Matthew Johnson.

Hamachi crudo with cocktail.

Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

We follow hyper-local regional cooking rules in the kitchen, with many of our herbs, fruits and veggies harvested from our garden and on-site citrus groves. When we can’t harvest something from our own backyard, Anthony Clark from The Berry Man sources local organic produce for us throughout the year.

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home this time of year?

On my day off I love to barbecue—specifically a tri-tip or any type of local seafood.

Do you have any tips or advice for home chefs looking to better their skills, particularly during this season?

My best piece of advice to at-home chefs, particularly those in Santa Barbara, is to choose your ingredients wisely and to draw inspiration from the rich bounty of California’s Central Coast. At San Ysidro Ranch, this time of the year fragrant gardens of lavender, rose, citrus and rosemary bloom under canopies of sycamore and eucalyptus. I often spend my spare time walking our garden to stay in touch with what we have grown, while drawing inspiration from our beautiful surroundings.

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Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a Santa Barbara native who writes about wine, food and travel. As a freelance writer, editor and wine consultant, she happily spends her downtime eating, drinking and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.

Beet salad with red wine.

COURTESY OF SAN YSIDRO RANCH

A NEW PARADIGM FOR POULTRY: How Regenerative Farms Are Rethinking Chicken

WORDS BY TWILIGHT GREENAWAY, EXECUTIVE EDITOR OF CIVIL EATS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL CROMBIE OF MAN ALONE MEDIA

The birds in a regenerative system are fed outside to encourage them to spend time roaming the paddock eating plants and insects.

When you approach the poultry paddocks at Salvatierra Farms you might not notice how many chickens are hiding among the tall grasses and young hazelnut trees at first. And that’s by design.

On a warm afternoon in June, 1,500 7-week-old hens had come out to mill around—lured by feed and water stations— but many were hard to find.

“There’s an eagle that comes around here,” says Reginaldo Haslett-Marroquin, the farmer and visionary behind the operation. “It has flown over a few times, and it just keeps going.” Soon, he adds, the trees and other perennials will be tall enough to provide cover for the birds, but for now the grass will suffice.

Salvatierra, which was a conventional corn and soy operation until Haslett-Marroquin bought it three years ago, is in the midst of a wholesale transformation. He has planted more than 8,000 hazelnut trees there, created a water catchment pond, begun managing the forest that frames it on two sides and leveled the land where he plans to build a home for his family.

This summer, he also raised the first three flocks of chickens there. As it comes into maturity, Salvatierra, which is in Northfield, Minnesota, stands to become a hub around which a growing and much wider network of farmers, scientists, nonprofits and funders will rotate—all in the name of regenerative poultry farming.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIL CROMBIE

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIL CROMBIE

Reginaldo Haslett-Marroquin at Finca Marisol, the farm where he developed the regenerative poultry system behind Tree-Range Farms.

Regenerative is a complex term with many interpretations. But Haslett-Marroquin’s approach stands apart from many others as it combines what he learned growing up in Guatemala—where chickens thrive in multi-story jungles— with a deep understanding of the Midwest’s native ecosystems. Unlike the pasture-based model of poultry production, which typically uses mobile barns and is sometimes also referred to as “regenerative,” it involves raising the birds in one spot, alongside trees and other perennial crops, as a way to build soil that is rich with organic matter and carbon, to capture and store water and to make the land on which it takes place more resilient in the face of the climate crisis.

At the core of the effort in Minnesota is Tree-Range Farms, the company Haslett-Marroquin co-founded, and a growing network that includes more than 40 farms in the region. The Regenerative Agriculture Alliance (RAA), a nonprofit he founded and now sits on the board of, also plays a key, ongoing role in developing the infrastructure behind the network and has plans to scale it up to extend across the upper portion of the corn belt.

But the grand vision doesn’t end there. There are also farms using Haslett-Marroquin’s approach in Guatemala, Mexico and in several Native American communities, including the Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota. And if its advocates have their way, the core practices and the philosophy behind it could be replicated in many parts of the world in the years to come. And at a time when Americans eat more than 160 million servings of chicken every day and industrial poultry farming is known for polluting ground water, air and waterways, as well as causing health issues for people who live nearby, it could be a welcome change.

How the Model Works

Like the chickens hiding in the grass, the sophistication of Haslett-Marroquin’s regenerative poultry system may be hard to spot for the untrained eye.

For years, he collaborated on research and development on his first farm, Finca Marisol, and on a nearby farm called Organic Compound in Faribault, Minnesota, to establish a production standard with very specific parameters.

Each poultry flock or “unit” includes 1,500 chickens, a barn and 1.5 acres of land divided into two fenced-in areas, or paddocks. The birds spend days outside in paddocks filled with rows of trees and perennial shrubs such as elderberry and comfrey.

“Everything that is part of the standard was tried and tested, from breeds to how long you feed them, to the right kind of welfare aspect to consider in the coop construction,” says Diane Christofore, executive director of the RAA, which brought in the funding for the research and development behind the standard. The organization recently launched an online course to train farmers, and it is also making a number of scholarships available.

In 8 to 12 weeks, farmers can take the birds to the smallscale processing plant that the RAA runs in northern Iowa. If they opt to sell them under the Tree-Range label, storage, distribution and marketing are all taken care of, as the birds make their way to consumers in the Minneapolis–St. Paul region. Soon, Tree-Range plans to expand its reach to add retailers in Madison, Milwaukee and Chicago.

The hope is to provide a relatively easy point of entry for beginning farmers and immigrant farmers looking for a way to start earning capital quickly. With their short life cycle and relevance across many cultures, chickens allow farmers to get on board and join the network—or the “ecosystem,” as RAA refers to it, while renting land and working other jobs. Once a barn has been built—or adapted from an existing structure—the required labor is concentrated in the mornings and evenings, making it a relatively easy lift for new farmers.

“We’re creating this for the people that don’t have access to the [resources to engage in large-scale agriculture], but you’re also working with people who are still engaged in conventional agriculture and asking, ‘How could I transition?’” says Christofore.

Many of the farms raising birds for Tree-Range are run by recent immigrants, such as Callejas Farm, where Jose and Erica Callejas, formerly from El Salvador, raise multiple flocks of chickens each year with their daughters. Or Carrillo Brother Farms, where Jesus and Aldo Carrillo—who immigrated from Mexico—raise one flock a year alongside a wide array of fruit and vegetables.

Haslett-Marroquin says there are more interested farmers than the RAA can support at this point, so he’s confident that the network will continue to grow.

For one, he says, the modular approach to adding flocks to farms makes it relatively simple to replicate. After years of prototyping the system at Finca Marisol, he says everything fell into place very quickly at Salvatierra, where he is starting with three units and plans to add three more in the coming year.

“There was no guesswork,” he says. “This thing happened as if I had done it a million times. And we could take 1,000 acres, 10,000 acres or 1 million acres, and we’d know exactly what to do. That’s the difference between farm-level thinking and system-level thinking. And at the end, it’s that large scale that makes it truly regenerative, not the farm itself.”

Feed conversion ratio—or the relationship between the feed that goes into the animals and the final product—is a common metric for measuring financial success and environmental impact in meat production. Chickens in RAA’s system eat more grain because they move around much more. But the farms have an overall smaller footprint because the added manure replaces synthetic fertilizer. On 1.5 acres, mature hazelnut trees will produce around 800 to 1,200 pounds of nuts.

“Once you add up the output of meat, the output of hazelnuts, the large-scale sequestration of carbon,” Haslett-Marroquin says, “you can’t even compare it to a confinement model.”

“At that point, we’ll look at the industry— the USDA, investors, markets, everybody, and say, ‘OK, folks, why should we only do 5 percent of the total poultry system this way when we can do 100 percent?’”

Chickens take cover in the grassy paddock at Organic Compound, the first farm to start raising chickens commercially for Tree-Range Farms.

At the core, his approach to food production places productivity within a larger context of a balanced living system. It’s about “stewarding the transformation of energy from non-edible forms to edible ones,” and it’s a process that isn’t new, but quite old.

“We are unleashing the original Indigenous intellect that makes us so powerful as human beings. It is the one thing that all capitalistic, extractive, destructive systems hate. That’s why they will go and massacre Indigenous communities at mass scale because they know that that intellect can overcome the extractive system. And it can, in the end, save the planet,” he adds.

The Science

Haslett-Marroquin is confident that the system he has developed works, but he knows that Western scientific research is key to scaling it up.

Beth Fisher, PhD, a soil scientist and assistant professor at Minnesota State University, Mankato, is part of a team of scientists in Minnesota that started measuring the health of the soil, the water and the emissions released from farms in 2021.

Fisher says she was approached by Haslett-Marroquin, who asked her to gather evidence to add validation to what he had long observed and understood intuitively about the way

regenerative practices work on the ground. She was interested in the approach, but it was the visit to Finca Marisol, the first farm where birds and trees had been raised side by side for almost a dozen years, that sealed the deal.

“The soil structure is beautiful,” she says. “Water infiltrates beautifully. It has a wonderful collection of organic matter.”

Since then, she and the undergraduate students she works with have been gathering samples of soil on a handful of farms in the network, as well as conventional, corn and soy farms that neighbor them. The differences have been compelling, and Fisher hopes to begin publishing the findings in academic journals and in agriculture publications soon.

Carrie Jennings, PhD, the research and policy director at the nonprofit Freshwater and an adjunct professor and researcher at the University of Minnesota, initiated the research. She points to the fact that the Cannon River, which runs through Minnesota and down to the Mississippi River, is one of the bodies of water in the nation that is most polluted by agricultural chemicals. And she has seen strong initial evidence that the regenerative poultry system is not adding to that pollution.

Jennings is closely tracking the funds Minnesota is directing toward regenerative practices, and she says, “We want to make sure they’re funding the right practices; we don’t want them throwing away tax money on things that aren’t going to improve water, soil and climate.”

Jennings also wants to provide hard evidence for farmers looking to change their practices. “Farmers notice that their lives and waters are degrading over generations and even within a generation. They’re not exactly happy about it either. They know that they’re spending more than they should on chemicals. So, if someone like Reginaldo can show that this works then it’s more likely to be adopted.”

She also points to General Mills’ recent financial support as evidence of the potentially influential nature of HaslettMarroquin’s approach. “They need to make sure [crops] can continue to be grown in this rapidly changing world. It’s important to the companies and the consumers of those products,” she adds.

In addition to research, General Mills is also funding the RAA’s farmer training and its demonstration farm. “We have been inspired by the RAA’s thought leadership and continue to learn from the deep and holistic way they approach regenerative agriculture,” said a company representative in a statement to Civil Eats.

RAA collaborated with Oatly, General Mills and a number of other nonprofit and research entities in the region, on a $5 million climate-smart commodities grant from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) aimed at “support[ing] poultry producers who follow diversified, regenerative. climatesmart grain production methods incorporating small grains such as oats, no-till and cover crops, integrated agroforestry practices.

“It’s an opportunity now to start to produce grains within [the regenerative] system, because 70 percent of the cost to farm business is feed,” said Christofore.

The birds in a regenerative system are fed outside to encourage them to spend time roaming the paddock eating plants and insects.

A Growing Network

In stepping down from leading the RAA, Haslett-Marroquin hopes the network moves toward a collective model of leadership based on a Mayan diagram that looks more like a circle than a pyramid. The idea is to create a strong system wherein everybody leads and follows at the same time, a reciprocal form of relationship-based accountability. “And if you do that, you unleash the energy of the people, and it is unbelievable. That’s why we call this an intellectual insurgency.”

Christofore echoes that idea. “We expect a certain level of participation from those who want to commit to the ecosystem. And that’s when you start to care about things, when you start to have ownership. It comes with a lot of responsibility and does require risk. But what comes with it is an opportunity to be a part of a culture and a community that’s growing.”

Haslett-Marroquin has his sights set on reaching 250 farms on 50,000 acres in Minnesota, Iowa and Wisconsin. From there, he can see the network expanding to five or six other regions around the U.S. until it reaches 500 million chickens. That type of growth sounds enormous, but it would still only be 5 percent of the total chickens raised in the U.S. And at that point, he says, a truly regenerative system would have some real leverage.

“At that point, we’ll look at the industry—the USDA, investors, markets, everybody, and say, ‘OK, folks, why should we only do 5 percent of the total poultry system this way when we can do 100 percent?’” says the visionary farmer. “I may not get there myself, but somebody else could get us there. It doesn’t matter how long it takes. We don’t plan for the next year to two; this is about the seven generations in front of us.”

Hazelnut trees in the paddocks at Organic Compound are 6 years old and productive, but they still have a way to go before they reach full maturity. Below left: A wide range of trees and perennials grow at Organic Compound organic farm in Faribault, MN.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIL CROMBIE

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIL CROMBIE

Good as Gold Three Santa Barbara County Vineyards

Mark 50 Years

WORDS BY Wendy Thies Sell

The year was 1973. A first-class postage stamp set you back eight cents, the Watergate scandal hearings convened, Oscar couldn’t refuse The Godfather, Secretariat galloped through the Triple Crown and three Santa Barbara County vineyards were born—establishing wine estates that have stood the test of time.

Bien Nacido, Riverbench and Zaca Mesa are commemorating golden anniversaries in 2023. Each has endured 50 years of farming highs and lows, evolved their winemaking techniques and enjoyed industry accolades. Each will mark the milestone in different ways.

Meaning “well born” in Spanish, Bien Nacido Vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley has undoubtedly made a name for itself—having been declared “The Most Important Vineyard,” “The Best Vineyard in California” and one of the “Top 25 Vineyards in the World”—but its biggest claim to fame is being the most single-vineyard-designated site on earth. (Over the years, more than 150 carefully vetted wineries have purchased Bien Nacido grapes and cited the vineyard name on their wine label.)

For five decades, the 600+ acre vineyard, planted primarily to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, has been intentionally off-limits to the public. Until now. In May, the Miller family opened the doors to The Gatehouse, their new visitors center built in respectful homage to the historic 166-year-old adobe on the property. Guests have the opportunity to taste wine fl ights by Bien Nacido Estate and sister winery Solomon Hills

Estate, to enjoy lunch on the patio or to take their visit to the next level and book a private all-terrain-vehicle tour of the renowned vineyard blocks.

“This is a very special moment in time that symbolizes not just a tribute to the past, where we’ve been, but really turning a page and literally opening the doors here for what we see as the future and the next steps,” said Nicholas Miller, executive vice president at Miller Family Wine Company.

Miller’s father and late uncle, Stephen and Bob Miller, were growing lemons and avocados in Ventura County in 1969 when they purchased cattle grazing acreage east of Santa Maria—original Spanish land grant property known as Rancho Tepusquet.

“There was not a vine planted on this property. It was their vision of what they saw here on the Central Coast, of what we could be as a region and as an area. We are so blessed to see how much they got right from the beginning,” Miller said at The Gatehouse’s ribbon cutting. “We’ve never been more excited as a family and as team about the wines coming from this region, and what we believe that we can add here by opening The Gatehouse, becoming another ambassador, another mark on the Santa Maria Valley wine trail and the Santa Barbara wine trail. We can add to the experience and be ambassadors for those who want to come to our area and experience what we truly believe are some of the best wines in the world.”

The Gatehouse, a new tasting room at Bien Nacido.

Situated on the bank of the Sisquoc River in the southeastern Santa Maria Valley, Riverbench Vineyard was also established in 1973. Grape grower Louis Lucas planted the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines for then-owned, Paragon Vineyard Company.

“We still have Chardonnay vines that are 50 years old!” said Clarissa Nagy, Riverbench Winery’s winemaker. Gnarled by time, the vine’s cordons, or arms, widened with age.

“It’s pretty amazing, actually, because they are own-rooted. Even though they’re Clone 4, the berries are very small. It’s so conducive for me for making Chardonnay, but then also sparkling,” Nagy said. “You get a greater concentration of skinto-juice ratio the smaller the berries are.”

A special site is essential in grape growing. And Riverbench’s site is unique.

“It’s perfect conditions for making sparkling wine. That’s one of the things that blew my mind when I fi rst came in,” said Nagy, who has made Riverbench’s wines since 2012. “Because we are in the ancient riverbed, we have a different profi le than in other areas of Santa Maria. We have pretty much straight sand and we have that phenomenal drainage because of that.”

Four families purchased the vineyard in 2005 and bottled their fi rst vintage a year later. Riverbench is currently owned by two of those families: the Will/Goodwin and Hamill families.

“What a thrill it is to celebrate this momentous golden anniversary. Fifty years is a huge success!” said Steve Will. “As owners of the vineyard over the last 17 years, we recognize that very few wineries in this region have reached such a

milestone, especially those who have continued to stay family owned and operated, so we are extremely grateful for everyone who has played a part in our history. We look forward to continuing to build upon the Riverbench tradition of growing and making elegant, site-driven wines from this very special place—a place we hope to make wine for many, many more decades to come.”

Riverbench focuses on Burgundian varietals—Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—and their respected sparkling wine program. Riverbench was the fi rst in Santa Barbara County to plant Pinot Meunier—the third great grape component that traditionally goes into Champagne in France.

Riverbench raised a glass of bubbly in a celebratory toast while hosting a 50 th anniversary dinner at their winery farmhouse on September 9.

Riverbench Vineyard.

Clarissa Nagy, Riverbench Winery’s winemaker.

Zigzag along Foxen Canyon Road north of Los Olivos and you’ll happen upon Zaca Mesa Vineyard, Santa Barbara County’s third winery, founded in 1973 by John Cushman and five friends.

“It has been a true honor to grow and make wine for the past 50 years, and being able to look back on all we have accomplished in that time frame is truly special. Every moment in Zaca Mesa’s history is important, and everyone who has visited, purchased wine, nurtured the vines and helped make the wine has played an integral role in our story. We are so grateful to each and every person, past and present, who has supported this journey,” said John Cushman, who served as the winery’s chairman and director until passing away on May 4. While the Cushman family mourns his loss, they celebrate John’s legacy in the local wine industry.

“My dad was one of the original investors. [John] and his partners in the business were what they call ‘wildcatters.’ At the time, Santa Barbara County didn’t have a wine industry,” said Zaca Mesa president Stewart Cushman. “If you were doing it today, you would have much more of a thoughtful, careful plan. You’d have consultants who would tell you whether to plant Pinot Noir or Syrah. They didn’t have that information… because it didn’t exist. They literally planted everything in 1973: Pinot, Cab, Zin, you name it.”

Zaca Mesa Vineyard.

In 1978, when Zaca Mesa planted the fi rst Syrah in Santa Barbara County, the grape performed so well that they realized they were in “the Rhône Zone.” By 1997, the winery was focused on Rhône-style wines, with the celebrated Syrah from the legendary Black Bear Block remaining their fl agship fruit.

“The gnarliness and the size of those 1978 vines are just incredible. Those are de fi nitely our oldest and our most special and our best wine. The fruit quality is still amazing,” Cushman said.

Visitors are encouraged to leave the city behind, take a trip to wine country, and experience the vineyard themselves.

“You drive over the hill and it’s like you step back in time with the natural beauty of the mountains and rolling hills and oak trees. When people come they are coming for hospitality, soaking up nature, literally the fruits of your labor with wine in the bottle. It’s such a neat way to connect in a peaceful way with the beauty of nature and wine,” Cushman said.

Zaca Mesa invites the public to celebrate with them at their 50 th Anniversary Fall Fiesta at the winery on November 18 featuring live music, tacos and tamales and, of course, Zaca Mesa wines.

Wendy Thies Sell is a four-time Emmy Award–winning journalist, travel, wine and lifestyle writer and emcee. Wendy anchored the local TV news on California’s Central Coast for 12 years at KSBY and KCOY. She resides with her family in northern Santa Barbara County.

MIKE LARSON

In a Bowl

IN A BOWL

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY Pascale Beale

It’s funny how the snippet of a song, an aroma or an object can elicit a distinct memory. That memory in turn triggers a series of images and suddenly you’re plunged down the rabbit hole of reminiscences.

Seeing my mum’s salad bowl in her kitchen recently did just that. It’s a large, well-used, well-loved olive wood bowl, its patina rich and deep in color that has developed since my parents received it as a wedding present in 1961. I thought about all the houses that bowl has lived in, all the meals it’s been present at. If bowls could talk, that bowl could tell you a story or two!

It stood pride of place in the middle of her extravagant multi-course dinner parties and was always present on our Sunday lunch table, filled with bright green, carefully washed and prepared greens. I’d spy it sitting on the counter, vinaigrette made, the salad waiting to be tossed. It was rarely used for anything other than a green salad, but that’s where my love affair with all things salad began. All these thoughts flashed through my mind as I watched her make a salad for us in the very same bowl.

I realized that we didn’t really make mixed salads, other than a salade niçoise or perhaps an endives-Roquefort-walnut salad when I was growing up. Salads were invariably green, perhaps with a few herbs (mostly parsley) and chives, and always served after the main course as a light, refreshing, cleansing interlude, before cheese and/or dessert.

It wasn’t until I moved to California that I discovered a different type of salad altogether, and the idea that one could be served as a main course. When I arrived in Los Angeles, I ate the (now famous) grilled vegetable salad at The Ivy. It was a deliciously succulent revelation, filled with warm grilled zucchini, corn, butter lettuce, little tomatoes and a lime vinaigrette. It was abundant and satisfying. I discovered chopped salads, chef’s salads, Caesar salads with grilled chicken or salmon, kale and avocado salads, Waldorf salad, and green goddess and thousand island dressing. This was a

whole new world of salad, and I was smitten.

I started experimenting with different vegetables, then added assorted fruit (something the French side of my family still finds weird) to my salads. The abundance of extraordinary stone fruit, herbs and mixed greens at the farmers markets are not just a feast for the eyes, but also for the palate. Combine ripe, juicy heirloom tomatoes with sliced white peaches, some fresh mint and basil and a drizzle of lemon vinaigrette, for example, and you have the taste of late summer in every mouthful. The possibilities, I realized, were endless— particularly in late summer, when the last thing anyone wants to do is spend hours cooking in a hot kitchen.

British food writer Elizabeth David once wrote, “Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the essence of a fleeting moment.” I am reminded of this comment every time I eat a perfectly ripe Tuscan melon, its sweet perfume lingering in the air, or bite into rich, juicy tomato, or a lusciously soft fig. Little plump cherries and cherry tomatoes are, I discovered, perfect complements to each other but they only coexist for a few short weeks each year when they are both at the acme. This is the essence of the season, and how better to capture this than to serve it up, in all its freshness, in one’s favorite vessel. This is uncomplicated food that celebrates the season.

My cooking strategy now consists of grabbing a few of my favorite bowls and platters and filling them with an assortment of salads. This is the perfect recipe for impromptu lunches and dinners. I try to include one dish that has a warm element in it such as grilled vegetables, to use a variety of textures (crunchy crisp salads as well softer green salads) and perhaps add a protein to one of them, such as a smoked fish, eggs, quinoa, chickpeas or lentils. There are few meals I like more than a table covered with an assortment of gorgeous dishes, including (as I cannot stray too far away from my roots) a green salad, served in a big wooden bowl, with lots of herbs too!

“The essence of a good salad is simplicity: clean, bright flavors that, when brought together, bring out the best in one another” —Chuck Williams

RECIPES

Grilled Corn Salad with Pine Nut Pesto

I grew up in London, where, for the majority of the year, the weather could best be described as dismal and damp. Not weather conducive to barbecues. In fact, we didn’t own one, so anything grilled took on a slightly exotic feel, and was something to look forward to.

The first time I ate grilled corn was at a picnic-cumbarbecue in my grandparents’ garden in France. These were elaborate affairs. The women in the family prepared prodigious amounts of food. The men in the family all gave their opinions about the proper techniques to achieve the perfect braise (the moment when the charcoal is at its optimum) and how long each item should be cooked for. A playful banter ping-ponged back and forth between them, until finally everything was ready, shouts of á table echoed in the garden, and all the kids came scampering to devour their hard work. The corn would be served with salted butter melting down its charred golden sides.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS FOR THE SALAD

3 ears fresh corn, shucked

Olive oil

Coarse salt

6–8 grinds black pepper

8 ounces mixed salad greens

8 ounces yellow carrots, peeled and sliced into thin rounds

8 radishes, ends trimmed, then thinly sliced

1 ⁄4 cup cilantro leaves

FOR THE PESTO

1 ⁄4 cup pine nuts

3 tablespoons finely chopped chives

1 ⁄4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

Large pinch of salt

8–10 grinds black pepper

Preheat a grill pan over medium-high heat.

Place the corn on a plate and drizzle with a little olive oil, a good pinch of salt and 6–8 grinds of black pepper. Turn to coat well. Grill the corn cobs for approximately 1–2 minutes per side, turning them 2 or 3 times, just until they start to color. Place the grilled corn on a cutting board and, when cool enough to handle, slice off the kernels.

Place the salad greens in a shallow salad bowl or large serving platter. Scatter the carrots, radishes, grilled corn kernels and cilantro leaves over the greens.

Place the pine nuts and chives in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse until they form a rough paste. Add the remaining pesto ingredients and process until well blended, but still a little coarse. Spoon the pesto over the salad and serve.

RECIPES

Green Tomato and Toasted Pepitas Salad

I have tried, in vain, to grow these beautiful green tomatoes. I adore their color, texture and flavor, particularly the Green Zebra and Aunt Ruby varieties. Every year I plant some, convinced that I have finally mastered their cultivation, but alas, once again, they have eluded me. Fortunately, very talented local farmers grow them with enviable ease, and I snap them up when I see them at the market. This salad shows off these tomatoes in all their glory with the sautéed pepitas adding a lovely delicate, nutty flavor to the dish.

Be sure to use green tomato varieties in this salad, not tomatoes that are green because they are not ripe.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

6–8 green heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced horizontally

1 ⁄4 cup assorted microgreens

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 ⁄3 cup raw pepitas (or raw sunflower seeds)

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

Pinch of sea salt

5–6 grinds black pepper

1 tablespoon basil olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar (fig balsamic if possible)

Cover the center of a large shallow platter with the sliced tomatoes, slightly overlapping the slices. Insert little bunches of microgreens around and in between the tomatoes.

Heat the olive oil in a small skillet placed over medium heat. Add the pepitas and sauté for 1–2 minutes, until they just turn brown. Add the chives, salt and pepper, stir and then cook for 30 seconds more. Remove from the heat and immediately spoon the hot pepitas mixture on top of the tomatoes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the basil olive oil and vinegar. Pour the vinaigrette over the tomatoes and serve.

RECIPES

Peach Salad

During a podcast conversation with Todd Shulkin for In Julia’s Kitchen during the Taste of Santa Barbara last year, we discussed amongst other things how walking through a farmers market can be so inspirational. This salad was created that same day after finding all these delicious treats at the farmers market, including heavenly peaches dripping with juicy sweetness, purple amaranth (the color adds a vibrant pop to any dish), Provencal-style goat cheese, blistered almonds and masses of fragrant herbs. My basket was overflowing with abundance! This was the result.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 white peaches, pitted and sliced

2 yellow peaches, pitted and sliced

1 ⁄3 cup toasted or blistered almonds

Small handful of fresh basil leaves (purple, lemon or Thai, or a mix)

Small handful of fresh mint leaves

1 ounce fresh amaranth

1 small round goat cheese (2 ounces) sliced

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE

1 ⁄4 cup basil olive oil, or a good fruity olive oil

1 tablespoon champagne vinegar

Pinch of sea salt

Black pepper

Arrange the sliced peaches in a shallow bowl or platter. Scatter the almonds, basil and mint leaves over the peaches. Insert small bunches of the amaranth around the peach slices and dot the salad with goat cheese.

Whisk all the vinaigrette ingredients together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. When ready to serve, drizzle the vinaigrette over the salad.

RECIPES Roasted White Peaches with Lavender and Crème Fraîche

This is an unbelievably easy dessert to make. Perfect for days when you don’t want to spend too much time in the kitchen, or you have some unexpected guests for dinner. You can substitute any stone fruit here. In the recipe the fruit are topped with crème fraîche, but you can use a spoonful of Greek yogurt or ice cream if you prefer. The sliced almonds add a crunchy counterpoint to the soft texture of the fruit and cream.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

4 peaches, pitted and cut into eighths

1 tablespoon floral honey

1 tablespoon sugar

3 sprigs lavender, flowers removed and finely chopped

1 tablespoon sliced almonds

1 ⁄3 cup crème fraiche

Preheat oven to 400°.

Place the peaches in a shallow baking dish. Drizzle the honey over the fruit. Sprinkle the sugar and lavender over the top. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until just tender. Top warm peaches with sliced almonds. Serve with a dollop of crème fraîche.

Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade II, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.

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SANTABARBARA & WINE COUNTRY

SUPPORT LOCAL GUIDE

Now more than ever, it’s important to seek out and support local businesses. Here is our guide of the current advertisers that we fully support and hope you will, too. Visit the websites to get more information about what they offer and any updated hours of operation.

Farms & Ranches

Babé Farms

805 925-4144

www.BabeFarms.com

Babé Farms boasts a year-round harvest of colorful baby and specialty vegetables, grown in the Santa Maria Valley. Family-owned and -operated, Babé Farms is the “couture” label top chefs and fine retailers look to for their gourmet vegetable needs.

Winfield Farm

805 686-9312

www.WinfieldFarm.us

Taste the magic of Winfield Farm Mangalitsa at these special places: Niner Wine Estates in Paso Robles, Pico at the General Store in Los Alamos, and we’re delighted to announce our new relationship with Michelin star restaurant First and Oak at the Mirabelle Inn in Solvang. You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).

Food & Restaurants

Acme Hospitality

805 456-6804

Events@AcmeHospitality.com

www.AcmeHospitality.com/private-events/

Emphasizing seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, Acme Hospitality offers inspiring event menus— from Spanish tapas and paella at Loquita and scratch-made dishes at The Lark to early California ranchero-influenced flavors at La Paloma Cafe. They have more than 15 immaculately appointed spaces— accommodating anywhere from 12 to 200 guests

Bob’s Well Bread

550 Bell St., Los Alamos, CA

805 344-3000

2249 Baseline Ave., Ballard, CA 805 691-9549

www.BobsWellBread.com

Now in two locations with convenient online ordering, Bob’s makes bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop

in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive” —signature Pain au Levain, awardwinning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Los Alamos: Thu–Mon 7am–4pm. Ballard: Thu–Mon 8am–4pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.

Chocolate Maya

15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5956

www.ChocolateMaya.com

Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Conexion, including small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and exotic findings from their travels overseas. Covid-19 hours noon–5pm every day. Closed on Wednesday.

Global Gardens

3570 Madera St., Santa Ynez 805 686-4111

www.GlobalGardensOnline.com

Global Gardens grows, produces and sells awardwinning organic olive oils, balsamic vinegars, organic mustards, snacks, gift baskets and more. Santa Barbara’s first extra virgin olive oil producer since their first harvest in 1998. A true family business with expert knowledge and love for the land.

Olive Hill Farm

2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 693-0700

www.OliveHillFarm.com

Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.

Plow to Porch

805 895-7171

www.PlowToPorch.com

Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect

the environment and make eating healthy food fun! Subscriptions start at $22.50.

Wine & Beer

Au Bon Climat

813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 963-7999

www.AuBonClimat.com

The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots, yet other varietals are available. Jim Clendenen made wines of vision and character for over 30 years. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines on hand. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm. Outdoor wine tasting daily. Reservations recommended.

Babi’s Beer Emporium

380 Bell St., Los Alamos 805 344-1911

www.BabisBeerEmporium.com

Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Dim Sama’s menu.

Thu–Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm, Mon noon–4pm, Tue–Wed by appointment only.

Carhartt Family Wines

2939 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 325-9274

www.CarharttFamilyWines.com

The “Carhartt Cabin” tasting room is the only brickand-mortar location to taste and purchase Carhartt Family Wines. They pour over 20 seasonal selections throughout the year, allowing guests to taste an assortment of varietals and blends. Open daily 11am–6/6:30pm.

Casa Dumetz

388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900

www.CasaDumetzWines.com

A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Thu–Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm, Mon noon–4pm, Tue–Wed by appointment.

Foxen Vineyard & Winery

7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251

www.FoxenVineyard.com

The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open daily by reservation.

Margerum & Barden

Tasting Room at the Hotel Californian, corner Winery Tasting Room, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton; 805 686-8500

www.MargerumWines.com

Enjoy wine tasting, order from their menu and stock up on provisions at the combined Margerum and Barden Tasting Room across the street from Hotel Californian in the Santa Barbara Funk Zone. Indoor and outdoor patio seating, with an indoor mezzanine that can host private events. Handcrafted Rhône varietal wines from Margerum Estate Vineyard and from grapes grown at top Santa Barbara County vineyards. All complemented with a simple fare menu—cheese and charcuterie, pizzas, paninis, salads and other foods to complement the wine. The winery in Buellton is open by appointment for wine tasting and winery tours.

Meritage Wine Market

18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 845-0777

SantaBarbara.MeritageWineMarket.com

Meritage Wine Market offers the best personal wine experience with the core belief that making great wine is a complex process but choosing one shouldn’t be. They manage their customers’ needs with wine selections specifically chosen for their individual purpose and fulfilling the highest-quality wine within budget. Open Tue–Sat 11am–6pm.

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery

137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100

6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340

Riverbench.com

Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara.

Roblar Winery

3010 Roblar Ave., Santa Ynez 805 686-2603

www. RoblarWinery.com

Nestled in an oak tree-studded 40-acre vineyard located in the heart of Santa Barbara County, Roblar Winery and Vineyards reflects the spirit of Santa Ynez Wineries—rustic, authentic and bold. They have a diverse lineup of delicious wines, farm-to-table paired delights, a locally sourced food menu, and a fantastic estate-driven experience. Open daily 11am–5pm.

Zaca Mesa Winery

6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339

www.ZacaMesa.com

Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhône-style wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.

Specialty Retail

ella & louie

www.EllaAndLouie.com

Floral designer Tracey Morris has two great loves: flowers and people. Relying on more than 25 years of design experience, Morris helps clients celebrate their big occasions with exquisite and expressive floral arrangements. Ella & Louie produces a range of looks from classic elegant designs to unusual and stylish. Local delivery.

Services and Organizations

American Riviera Bank

525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110

www.AmericanRivieraBank.com

1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942

www.AmericanRivieraBank.com

Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu

9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.

The National Heirloom Exposition

www.TheHeirloomExpo.com

The National Heirloom Exposition has been called “The World’s Fair of Pure Food.” It is the nation’s premier event for celebrating the history, preservation and cultivation of heirloom varieties free from genetic modification. The 10th anniversary of the Expo will be held September 12, 13 and 14, 2023, at the Ventura County Fairgrounds and will feature an expo hall filled with displays, seed swap, tastings, lectures and panel discussions.

Santa Barbara Vintners

805 688-0881

www.SBCountyWines.com

Santa Barbara Vintners (Santa Barbara County Vintners Association) is a nonprofit 501(c)(6) organization founded in 1983 to protect and promote Santa Barbara County as a world-class wine and grape region.

SBCC Foundation

805 730-4401

www.SBCCFoundation.org

The SBCC Foundation has provided Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support for over 45 years, serving as the vehicle through which individuals and organizations may invest in the college and its students. The Foundation provides more than $5 million annually for the SBCC Promise, student success programs, scholarships, emergency grants and more— supporting SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.

SEEAG

805 901-0213

www.SEEAG.org

Since 2008, the nonprofit Students for Eco-Education & Agriculture (SEEAG) has impacted the lives of over 60,000 students, offering a variety of agricultural education programs free of charge, including the annual Santa Barbara County Farm Day, held this year on September 23 and in Ventura on November 4. Their mission is to educate students and the greater community about the farm origins of our food and agriculture’s contribution to our nutritional well-being.

ROB HATHERILL

Fresh, seasonal fish is abundant in our local Santa Barbara waters, which is something that gets Chef Jaime Riesco excited. He and his wife, Tara Penke, quietly opened Gala on Anacapa Street in January and have been building its presence slowly and deliberately.

Riesco likes to go out with local fishermen to really experience the seafood he sources for the restaurant. Riesco is also interested in experiencing our local farms—visiting them to discuss ingredients with the farmers. “These relationships are very important,” Riesco says. “Now these farmers call me when they have interesting produce or fish or large quantities of something in season. It’s how I like to cook.”

The two met in Spain, where Penke moved after graduating from UCSB. They then worked in restaurants in New York, where he honed his craft of fine dining, molecular gastronomy and experimenting with all the different foods and flavors available there. He also cooked in Spain, grew up in Chile and had Italian grandparents, which all influenced his tastes and style.

Gala

After living and running a restaurant in Barcelona for almost 10 years, the couple returned to Penke’s hometown of Santa Barbara to raise their children in a smaller community where they could enjoy the outdoors. Now, Gala is a reflection of them both: simple, informal, international flavors with an emphasis on quality and seasonality.

This dish features produce from Babé, McGrath and Givens farms and includes elements from Riesco’s wide array of culinary influences: Italian crudo and Peruvian ceviche. Leche de Tigre (or tiger’s milk) is from Peru, where these originators of ceviche made sure none of its fresh, citrusy goodness would go to waste. When you’re finished eating the ceviche, any marinating liquid left in the bowl is meant to be drunk right down or used for another dish or drink.

You’ll want to make your Leche de Tigre ahead of time by combining lime and lemon juice, cilantro, jalapeño or other spicy chile,

and some shallot if you like. Blend this, strain it and add salt to taste. Store it in the refrigerator.

To make the Halibut Crudo, start with the freshest local fish you can find (Riesco gets his from the Santa Barbara fish market). Freeze the fish for a short time, until almost frozen, so you can cut it into very thin slices. Press parchment paper onto the fish slices to absorb the water. Once it’s totally thawed (it should only take a few minutes), lay the slices out on a plate, sprinkle with flaky sea salt and extra virgin olive oil, then cover with a thin layer of Leche de Tigre. Top with diced pickled red and golden beets, fresh daikon sprouts, spring pea shoots and chopped chives.

Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). www.CaliCoastWineCountry.com

Local Halibut Crudo with Leche de Tigre at