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ISSUE 41 • SPRING 2019

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

The

Wine Issue Ten G l as s e s C e le br a t in g Te n Year s


APRIL 26—28

2019

Friday Night Concert at the Main Stage Beer & Wine Garden open too! 5PM-9PM All Park open Saturday 11AM-8PM All Park open Sunday 11AM-6PM ALAMEDA PARK - SANTA BARBARA

+ 36,000 people 200 MORE THAN

+of days music

2

eco-friendly exhibitors

GREEN CAR SHOW

Longest-running public in the U.S. features latest electric & hybrid vehicle technology * *Ebikes, too! FCEV

TEST DRIVE ONE AT THE FESTIVAL

Over 93% of waste

generated at the festival is

recycled or composted

FREE

 Environmental Hero awards

bike parking & tuneups

Sustainable

FOOD COURT


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Spring 2009 / Number 1

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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Summer 2009 / Number 2

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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Fall 2009 / Number 3

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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Winter 2009 / Number 4

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE FIVE • SPRING 2010

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

Sustainable Seafood Fairview Gardens A Culinary Journey The Pod Squad Whitcraft Winery

Heirloom Heaven Abalone Palmina Winery The Hidden Promise of Suburbia Food from the Hearth

Local Honeybees Culinary Bootcamp Edible Landscape Thanksgiving Santa Barbara Channel Seafood

Chocolate: From Cacao Bean to Confection Salmon A Seasonal Stew Endless Pastabilities

Eggs Backyard Chickens Beekeeping Salt: The Essential Ingredient Artichokes Community-Supported Agriculture

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

ISSUE SIX • SUMMER 2010

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE SEVEN • FALL 2010

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 8 • WINTER 2010 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 9 • SPRING 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA

Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Wine Caves: Down to Earth Stone Fruit Recycling Edible Flowers MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

ISSUE 11 • FALL 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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SANTA BARBARA Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Croissants!

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Santa Barbara

Winter Blossoms

Pistachio Harvest La Huerta Mission Gardens Farmer to Table

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Biodynamics

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Nothing Like Chocolate The Lazy Gardener

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ISSUE 16 • WINTER 2012

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Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Eating in Los Alamos Market Walk with Patricia Perfect Picnics

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

For Love of Pinot The Art in Artisan Bread Zaca University

Santa Maria-Style Barbecue Lompoc Beans Ice Cream

Regenerative Earth Farms Aquaponics Exotic Edible Trees

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

THE BELLY OF THE

Funk Zone

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ISSUE 22 • SUMMER 2014

Santa Barbara

The Art of Small Farming Tending Henry The Perfect Salad

The New Solvang The Thrill of the Grill All Aboard to Carpinteria

The Season for Persimmons Eating Lotus Santa Maria Agriculture

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

The COOKS Issue

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ISSUE 24 • WINTER 2014

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

LOCAL

ISSUE 25 • SPRING 2015

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

The COOKS Issue

ISSUE

Fine Chocolate Solvang’s Kringle and Crown Do Your Kids Cook?

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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ISSUE 26 • SUMMER 2015

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

EAT DRINK

5 YEAR

Anniversary Issue

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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ISSUE 23 • FALL 2014

Santa Barbara

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ISSUE 20 • WINTER 2013

Guerilla Brewing and Feral Fermentation

Giannfranco’s Trattoria Culinary Inspirations Edible Mushrooms

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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LIVING BEER

WINE & BREAD ISSUE

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Sauvignon Blanc Coffee: Grown in Goleta Eating Acorns

ISSUE

COOKS ISSUE

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

ISSUE 19 • FALL 2013

Santa Barbara

LOCAL

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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ISSUE 18 • SUMMER 2013

ISSUE 15 • FALL 2012

THE

Diving for California Gold Fish on Friday Fisherman’s Market

ISSUE 17 • SPRING 2013

Santa Barbara

ISSUE 21 • SPRING 2014

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ISSUE 14 • SUMMER 2012

Santa Barbara

EAT DRINK

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Lompoc Wine Ghetto Culinary Lavender Pasta and Water

Eating Daylilies

Almonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend

of the Harvest

Salt of the Sea Sorrel and Rhubarb The Rituals of a Meal

ISSUE 13 • SPRING 2012

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Unsung Heroes

Bob and Ellie Patterson’s Artisanal Gelato and Sorbet

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro

Wild Yeast Bread Profound Pairings A Passion for Spices

ISSUE 12 • WINTER 2011

Celebrating the Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Scoop?

One of TIME magazine’s “100 most influential people of 2010” talks to us about his garden, cooking and his upcoming lecture in Santa Barbara

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

ISSUE 10 • SUMMER 2011 MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Where’s the

An Interview with

Michael Pollan Grass-Fed Beef In the Kitchen with Bradley Ogden What the Kids Are Growing Canning Farmers Market

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SANTA BARBARA

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ISSUE 27 • FALL 2015

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Strawberries: A Love Story The Pig Next Door Decorative Eggs E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

ISSUE 28 • WINTER 2015

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ISSUE 29 • SPRING 2016

ISSUE 30 • SUMMER 2016

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

EAT DRINK

LOCAL ISSUE

The COOKS Issue

Building

Food

Communities

Gaviota Wine Without Water Home Off The Range Grunion

The Shrimping Life Unleashing the Yeast Savoring Wildlands

Interwoven: Santa Maria In Search of Masa Chef Justin West

The Tiny Mess A Big Taste of a Small Town No Cider House Rules

Santa Maria AVA The Channel Islands Eyes On Hives Girls Inc.

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

E AT • D R I N K • R E A D • T H I N K

L O YA L T O L O C A L

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ISSUE 31 • FALL 2016

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 32 • WINTER 2017

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 33 • SPRING 2017

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE 34 • SUMMER 2017

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

ISSUE 35 • FALL 2017

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Harvest

Harvest & Holiday

& Holiday ISSUE

ISSUE

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

Farm

ISSUE

GUIDE

Celebrating a Decade

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SANTA BARBARA

2009 — 2019

SPECIAL INSERT

The Papaya Man Santa Ynez AVA Cottage Industry

The Fervor for Fermentation Year of the Rooster The Apiary

A Passion for Peaches Happy Canyon AVA The Beer Trail

A Sicilian Christmas Reverie Loyal to the Soil Fairview Gardens

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

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ISSUE 36 • WINTER 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Bringing the Homestead

Home

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ISSUE 37 • SPRING 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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• SPRING ISSUE ISSUE 38 •37 SUMMER 2018 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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ISSUE ISSUE 37 39 •• SPRING FALL 2018 18

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

ISSUE 40 • WINTER 2019

Santa Barbara

Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

L O YA L TO

ISSUE

LOCAL

Harvest

In Search of

Local Sea

& Holiday ISSUE

Urchin

Renewal and Rebuilding

Renewal and Rebuilding

Cookbooks: Culinary Journeys Teach Kids to Cook Blue Sky Center in Cuyama

A Love Letter to Los Olivos From Grape to Great Winemaking Takes a Journey

Barbara County in this Issue A Love LetterSanta to Los Olivos From Grape Farm to GreatGuide Winemaking Takes a Journey

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L

L O YA L T O L O C A L L O YA L T O L O C A L

Heirloom Green Corn Frittata and Her Cousins Earth to Table Mistaken Identity L O YA L T O L O C A L

Funghi e la Cucina Italiana Talking Shiitake Jetsetter of the Vines Comfort Food T E N

Y E A R

A N N I V E R S A R Y

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L O Y A L

T O

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SANTA BAR BAR A

®

page 22

JOSHUA CURRY

KOBCHAI MATASUR AWIT

spring page 32

Departments 6 Food for Thought

28 Global Local Cuisine

by Krista Harris

Spanish Influences by Laura Booras

8 Small Sips A Local Marc Rosé on Ice?

10 Small Bites Michael Pollan

13 In Season 14 Seasonal Recipes From Simply Delicious Wine Country Recipes by Chef Robin Goldstein

22 Edible Garden Pepinos, Cukes & Melons by Joan S. Bolton

page 18 2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

TENLE Y FOHL

26 Drinkable Landscape Vermouth Serves Cocktails Upside-Down by George Yatchisin

32 Edible Voices Organic Soup Kitchen Celebrates a Decade of Service by Jill Johnson

74 Event Calendar 76 Eat Drink Local Guide 80 The Last Sip Spring’s Don’t-Miss Drink by Liz Dodder


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SANTA BAR BAR A

®

page 73

Features

Recipes in This Issue

36 Wine Not?

Appetizers

by Leslie A. Westbrook

20 Fried Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmas) 66 Grape Pomace Crackers 14 Wine Country Biscuits

40 Beginner’s Guide to Tasting Wine by Hana-Lee Sedgwick

44 The Gamay Has Arrived!

Salads and Side Dishes

by Adam McHugh

70 Arugula, Radish, Date and Pistachio Salad 30 Roasted Baby Carrots

52 And the Winner is… Edible Santa Barbara Wine Label

Main Dishes and Sauces

May Hold Keys to Our Future

65 Grape Pomace Molé Sauce 29 Rabbit Albondigas in Tomato Sauce 29 Roasted Peppers on Grilled Lamb Chops 73 Spring Pea, Fava Bean and Roasted Tomato Tart 16 Syrah-Braised Short Ribs

by John Cox

Desserts

68 Terroir A Culinary Journey Revisited by Pascale Beale

18 Dark Chocolate–Wine Truffles 66 Grape Pomace Cake 72 Stone Fruit Clafoutis

Artwork Contest

57 On the Marc How Santa Barbara’s Vineyard Waste

Beverages and Condiments ABOUT THE COVER

Ten glasses of wines to represent 10 years of publishing Edible Santa Barbara. Design by Steven Brown. Photo by Anastasy Yarmolovich.

4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

27 Hollister Takes Manhattan 27 The Best “Maraschino” Cherries 27 Vermouth Over Martini

MEDIA 27

spring


Locally family owned and operated.

24 W Figueroa St 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com

Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Santa Barbara’s Premier Destination Wine Shop.

18 W Anapamu St 805 962-5353 SavoyWines.com

“Plenty of space for wine, no room for snobbery.”

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 5


FOOD FOR THOUGHT The Wine Issue As we celebrate our 10-year anniversary, I can’t think of anything more fitting than an issue celebrating local wine. For the past 10 years we have been writing about, and showcasing, local wines in every issue. In Santa Barbara County wine and food go together like… well, wine and food. Certainly some of the best food coming out of our region has been inspired by and helped along by some Steve and Krista at Rusack Vineyards. of the best wine coming out of our region. Pioneers like Mitchell Sjveren of Bouchon Santa Barbara and Doug Margerum of Margerum Wine Company set the stage for our current winecentric cuisine. Just in the past 10 years that we’ve been publishing we’ve seen a tremendous increase in the kind of terroir-driven cuisine that complements our ever-growing wine scene. Instead of thinking entirely about the past 10 years, though, I’d like to think about the next 10 years. What changes will we see in the food and wine culture of Santa Barbara County? I think we’ll continue to see innovation and winemakers exploring new varietals. Last I checked, there were well over 30 varietals that were widely and regularly planted, but many lesser-known varietals are starting to get the spotlight (read more about Gamay in this issue). I think there will also be more interest in growing and production practices that are sustainable. We already see many vineyards farming sustainably and sometimes organically and biodynamically. Perhaps we will also start to see more zero-waste practices, like utilizing a byproduct of wine production: grape pomace (which you can also read more about in John Cox’s article “On the Marc” in this issue). Perhaps the thing that I’d most like to find in the next 10 years is more recognition for the hardworking winemakers, vineyard workers, farmers, chefs, fishermen, ranchers, food and beverage artisans who make up our local food and wine industry. It’s sometimes a surprise to me that Santa Barbara County wines aren’t even more well-known than they currently are. We have been fortunate these past years to tell their stories in our pages and we will certainly continue to do so. I can think of no better way to celebrate our anniversary than by raising a glass of local wine and toasting to the next 10 years.

Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher

We want to see and hear from you. Email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com. Follow and tag us on Instagram @ediblesb and #ediblesb. 6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

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SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities

Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)

PUBLISHERS

Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR

Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster COPY EDITING & PROOFING

Doug Adrianson DESIGNER

Steven Brown ADVERTISING & EVENTS

Katie Hershfelt ads@ediblesantabarbara.com SOCIAL MEDIA

Jill Johnson

Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Laura Booras Fran Collin John Cox Joshua Curry Liz Dodder Erin Feinblatt Wil Fernandez Robin Goldstein Jill Johnson Adam McHugh Hana-Lee Sedgwick Carole Topalian George Yatchisin Leslie A. Westbrook Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

®


Congratulates Edible Santa Barbara on 10 years of making our community a better place with the power of word and image and engagement

“ It isn’t what we say or think that defines us, but what we do.” —Jane Austen Ten Years ago Krista and Steve took a leap of faith and entered into the publishing world at a time when many proclaimed the demise of physical magazines. They dove headlong into the food worlds of those that underpin the very livelihood of Santa Barbara County. They did so with the dedication and care of the true professionals that they are. Since its inception Edible Santa Barbara has been an indispensable resource to readers and inescapable force for farmers, ranchers, bakers and chefs. The depth to which Edible Santa Barbara reaches is awesome and I, for one, am grateful for the contribution they have made in this fertile landscape we call home. — Clark Staub

Full of Life Flatbread was founded in 2003 in the Northern Santa Barbara County enclave of Los Alamos. We have proudly changed our menu weekly for 15 years based on what this amazing landscape offers.In our tenure we have become friends with so many amazing farmers, ranchers, fishermen and food artisans as well as other chefs who always reconfirm the amazingness of our region. Krista and Steve and the dedicated team they have created confirm this with each issue, and we are proud to support what they have created and do.

Open Thursday 4:30–9pm / Friday 4:30–10pm / Saturday 11am–10pm/ Sunday 11am–8pm / Field Bakes 225 West Bell Street, Los Alamos, CA (805) 344-4400 FullofLifeFoods.com @fulloflifefoods


Small Sips By Krista Harris

Rosé on Ice? Yes, It’s a Thing

A Local Marc Margerum Wine Company

Unlike brandy, which is a spirit distilled from wine, pomace brandy is distilled from the remains of grapes after they’ve been pressed for wine. To read more about pomace, see John Cox’s article “On the Marc” in this issue. Pomace brandy is known as marc in France, and you may be more familiar with its close relation in Italy: grappa. Although both are made from grape pomace, marc can be fermented with the addition of water to the pomace. Some say marc is smoother. And we are fortunate in Santa Barbara County to have an exquisite local marc made by Margerum Wine Company in conjunction with Ascendant Spirits in Buellton. Margerum’s marc is made from late-harvest Viognier pomace that is reconstituted and fermented dry. It is aged in 47% French oak for about a year. The skin contact and aging gives it a beautiful pale amber tint. The flavor from the Viognier grapes gives it a slightly fruity and floral aroma, and it is smoother than its 94 proof would suggest. Traditionally marc is served in a small glass as a digestif after a big meal. It can be a fitting accompaniment to rich after-dinner cheeses or a dessert of chocolate or caramel. The more adventurous will surely find ways to use it in cocktails. Margerum Wine Company Marc is $50/750 ml bottle and is sold only at their tasting rooms at 32 El Paseo, Santa Barbara, 805 845-8435, and in Buellton at 59 Industrial Way, open weekends, 805 686-8500. MargerumWines.com 8 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

Putting ice cubes in wine sounds like the most serious faux pas you can make. But just like the prohibition of wearing white before Memorial Day, this has been overturned as well. And you can blame (or thank) the French for this. In Southern France, when the weather is warm at the chic watering holes, you can order a Piscene de Rosé, which roughly translates to a “pool of rosé” and is a large glass (that perhaps looks like a swimming pool) of rosé with ice cubes in it. Yes, you read that correctly—wine served unabashedly over ice. You might also see Piscene de Champagne. Moët & Chandon has even released a champagne specifically meant to be served over ice. And there is also a brand of wine produced in France aptly named Rosé Piscene. It is made with the Négrette grape, and the flavor holds up to the diluting presence of ice. While these wines are now becoming available in the United States, you could serve any rosé over ice. The problem is that you run the risk of watering it down and altering the flavor of the wine as the ice melts. As far as we know, most local rosés are not made with the intent of serving them over ice cubes. And Santa Barbara County has so many delicious and fine rosés, it would be a shame to dilute them. But there are a couple of easy solutions. If you plan ahead, you can freeze some of your favorite rosé into ice cubes (or spheres) and pop those into your glass when you are ready for a refreshing drink. You might devote one bottle to batchfreezing a bunch of wine ice cubes so that you have a well-stocked freezer for a party or whenever needed. Another option is to wait until grapes are in season. Clean and destem your choice of red or green grapes and put them in the freezer. Use them instead of ice cubes. You won’t dilute your wine, and you’ll have a tasty garnish waiting for you at the end of your drink. As for serving wines other than rosé (or Champagne) over ice, we can’t say it isn’t done, but it doesn’t have the same classy French name and it hasn’t shown up on café menus… yet.


S A NTA

BAR BAR A

CO UNT Y

For some locals, a Saturday morning stroll through one of the area’s biggest farmers markets is a habitual start to every weekend. Arrive at the downtown Santa Barbara Farmers Market empty-handed at 8:30am and leave with armfuls of vegetables, fruit, herbs, eggs, meat, cheese, bread, flowers and plants from as many as 90 vendors. Head to the Tuesday Farmers Market on State Street and make an evening of it—meandering down the street for shopping, wine tasting, live music and dining. Our farmers markets are generally year round and rain or shine, but hours can vary from season to season, so check market websites or call for more information.

Carpinteria

Carpinteria Farmers Market

800 block of Linden Ave. Thu 3–6pm SBFarmersMarket.org

Lompoc Certified Farmers Market

Santa barbara

orcutt

Camino Real Marketplace At Storke & Hollister Sun 10am–2pm SBFarmersMarket.org

Central City Farmers Market

Montecito Farmers Market

Santa Maria

1100 & 1200 blocks of Coast Village Rd. Fri 8–11:15am SBFarmersMarket.org

Ocean and I St. Fri 2–6pm Facebook.com/ LompocCertified FarmersMarket

Goleta

Montecito

Lompoc

Tour the Farmers Market Join Chef Greg Murphy of Bouchon at the Tuesday afternoon Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market for an informative “Foodie Stroll” and dinner. Guests rendezvous with Chef at the market, select ingredients with Chef’s assistance and return to Bouchon for dinner. Once back at Bouchon, they enjoy a three-course dinner paired with local wines. Limited to eight guests. Go to BouchonSantaBarbara.com or call 805 730-1160 for reservations.

Town Center West Corner of Main St. & Broadway Fri 5:30– 8:30pm Spring through September SantaMariaValley.com

solvang

Solvang Village Copenhagen Dr. and First St. Wed 2:30– 6pm (until 6:30pm in summer) SBFarmersMarket.org

Saturday Fishermen’s Market Santa Barbara Harbor Sat 6 –11am CFSB.info/Sat

Town Center East Farmers Market Broadway & Main St. (outside Macy’s) Fri 9:30am–1:30pm 805 922-7931

Old Town Farmers Market 500 & 600 Blocks of State St. Tue 3–6:30pm (Daylight Savings Time) Tue 4–7:30pm (Standard Time) SBFarmersMarket.org

Broadway & Main St. (in Mervyn’s parking lot) Wed noon–4pm 805 305-9829

Downtown Santa Barbara Farmers Market Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota St. Sat 8:30am–1pm SBFarmersMarket.org

Oak Knoll South Corner of Bradley Rd. and Clark Ave. Tue 10am–1pm Farmers Market Orcutt on Facebook

Central City Farmers Market— Town Center West

vandenberg Village

Vandenberg Village Certified Farmers Market Burton Mesa Blvd. Sun 10am–2pm VillageGoesGreen.org

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 9


Small Bites By Krista Harris They do a lot for us and we, in turn, do a lot for them—give them more habitat, carry them around the world and spread their genes. That’s the kind of fundamental trunk of my work and there are some branches on that trunk; one has been food.

FR AN COLLIN

Another branch has been this very curious human practice, which appears to be universal, of using plants and fungi to change consciousness—whether it’s as routine as a cup of coffee or as extreme as psychedelic mushrooms. And I’ve always been curious about this. I got very interested when I started hearing that psilocybin, the active ingredient in magic mushrooms, was being used to treat people. It was being used as medicine. I didn’t realize that there had been such a rich history of using psilocybin and LSD to treat addiction, depression and the fear and anxiety that people with terminal cancer have.

Michael Pollan How to Change Your Mind

UC Santa Barbara Arts & Lectures welcomes back Michael Pollan on April 23 for a talk about his newest book, How to Change Your Mind: What the New Science of Psychedelics Teaches Us About Consciousness, Dying, Addiction, Depression, and Transcendence. Michael Pollan is well known for his books about food, cooking and nature, with many bestsellers including The Omnivore’s Dilemma, The Botany of Desire, Food Rules and Cooked. Some may see his new book as a departure from these subjects, but it appears to be more of a continuation of themes he has always been exploring, as I found out when talking with him. Krista Harris: Audiences are probably most familiar with your books about food, but plants and nature have always figured largely in your writing. Can you tell me about the segue that led you to write about psychedelics, and the connections between the two?

Michael Pollan: You are right to point to plants. My larger subject as a writer has always been the human engagement with the natural world. I’ve been specifically, as a gardener, interested in the reciprocal relationship between people and plants—and in this case, we’ll count fungi as plants. We’ve had a long-standing involvement with them, where they gratify our desires for beauty and sweetness and nutrition and changes of consciousness. 10 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

I would be remiss if I didn’t ask you about the subject of food. It’s been well over 10 years since The Omnivore’s Dilemma came out; how has the local food movement grown and changed since then?

Some of the sustainable foods that I talked about then that were really cutting edge back then are a lot closer to mainstream now. There’s been tremendous growth in farmers markets and organic food, in pastured food, that has been very gratifying to see. That said, though, I think at the federal level, in terms of food policy, we’ve made remarkably little progress. The Farm Bill is still a disaster, even though it still has interesting crumbs in it for sustainable agriculture. But I think we have a food movement now; we didn’t have a food movement then. There were a handful of people who had been working on this issue; now there are dozens of groups. There’s a real social movement and that’s very exciting to watch. It still has a long way to go in terms of reforming the system. The focus is also shifting. When I wrote that book, obesity was a problem and a lot of the interest in food came from a public health point of view. Now there’s also a strong environmental dimension to the food movement because of the importance of the food system to climate change. I think people have gotten better at connecting the dots. In those days a lot of what organic agriculture was about was just keeping pesticides out of your body. That’s important, without question. But now we see it as a whole system. That the kind of food we’re growing has a bearing on how we eat and our health and the health of the environment. And that’s very encouraging. For more information about How to Change Your Mind and all of Michael Pollan’s books, visit MichaelPollan.com. He will be here in Santa Barbara speaking on Tuesday, April 23, 7:30pm at the Granada Theatre. Tickets are available at ArtsAndLectures.ucsb.edu.


FOXEN

ÂŽ

V I N E YA R D & W I N E R Y

Join us every 2nd Sunday of the month for Live Music & Local Food Trucks

Solar powered. Sustainable wine growers. Open Daily 11– 4 | 7200 & 7600 Foxen Canyon Road | 805.937.4251 | FoxenVineyard.com

wine count r y cu is ine in the heart of the Historic Arts District Fresh, local ingredients, prepared with care. Excellent wines that reflect the quality and character of our region and work in concert with the cuisine. Warm, inviting ambience with engaging service at a relaxed, leisurely pace. This is bouchon.

dinner nightly Sun-Thurs 5-9pm | Fri-Sat 5-10pm

bouchon 9 west victoria street | 805.730.1160 | bouchonsantabarbara.com

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 11


in Season this spring Spring Produce

Year-Round Produce

Spring Seafood

Artichokes Apricots and apriums Asparagus Avocados Basil Blackberries Blueberries Broccoli rabe (rapini) Brussels sprouts Cabbage Cardoons Celery Chanterelle mushrooms Cherimoya Cherries Cilantro Collards Cucumber Dill Escarole Fava beans Fennel Garlic scapes Grapefruit Green garlic Kiwi Kumquats Limes Loquats Mulberries Mustard greens Nettles Onions, green bunching Papayas Pea greens Peas, shelling and snap Radishes Raspberries Rhubarb Strawberries Summer squash and blossoms Tangerines/Mandarins Tomatoes, hothouse Turnips

Almonds, almond butter

Mussels Ridgeback shrimp Rock fish Sardines Spot prawns White seabass

(harvested Aug/Sept)

Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates

(harvested Sept/Oct)

Garlic

(harvested May/June)

Herbs

(Bay leaf, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)

Edible flowers Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb

(harvested May/June)

Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Potatoes Radishes Raisins

(harvested Sept/Oct)

Shallots Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter

Year-Round Seafood Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sanddabs Seaweed Urchin

Other Year-Round Eggs Coffee (limited availability) Dairy

(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat

(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)

Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat

(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)

(harvested July/Oct)

Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Yams

(harvested Aug/Sept)

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 13


seasonal

Recipes

Wine Country Biscuits These are the ultimate crunchy, satisfying bites inspired by Italian taralli, a street snack common all over the southern half of the Italian peninsula. Similar in texture to breadsticks or pretzels, these can be made sweet or savory. A warning: They are very addictive.

EXCERPT FROM

Simply Delicious Wine Country Recipes

by Chef Robin Goldstein PHOTOGRAPHY BY TENLEY FOHL Makes 2 dozen 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sea salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon toasted fennel seeds 7 ounces dry white wine 1

Egg Salad Sandwich

⁄ 2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse sea salt

Mix the flour, salt, rosemary, pepper and fennel seeds in a large bowl.

What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter Use your hands to form a hole in the center. Pour in the wine and eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. olive oil. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get Mix with a wooden spoon from the center out to form the dough or tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste

Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion

prepare in a mixer with a dough hook. Pour the dough out onto a lightly floured workspace and knead 4–5 minutes, until it is smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. Working in quarter portions, roll the dough into cigar thickness, cutting into ½-inch pieces with a knife or pastry cutter. Then roll each piece thinner, the size of a thick pencil, 5 inches long, and attach the two ends, kneading the ends back and forth together lightly with your fingertips to attach. Repeat until you’ve finished shaping all the pieces.

• A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon

Preheat oven to 400°F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in batches, drop 6 to 8 pieces into the boiling water and boil until they float to the top. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a kitchen towel and allow to dry.

• A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar

Once dry, transfer to a parchment paper–lined baking sheet, sprinkle lightly with coarse sea salt and bake for 30–40 minutes, until lightly browned, rotating the pan halfway through.

Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional)

Allow to cool completely and store the biscuits in an airtight container at room temperature.

Additional pickled vegetables (optional)

These are good for up to a few weeks.

Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but2018 with 14 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING FALL 2019 a still chunky texture. Taste and add more seasoning or additions if needed.


BALANCED

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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 15


seasonal

Recipes

Syrah-Braised Short Ribs I am guessing you remember that slow cooker you bought years ago. You just had to have it and then shoved it away in the top cabinet above your oven. Well, it’s time to dust it off and try this easy recipe. Once you get all the ingredients together, you can plug in your cooker and have a satisfying, effortless, fall-off-the-bone tender beef short rib dinner ready at the end of your busy day. The flavor combination of the braised ribs, wine sauce and mashed veggies creates, without a doubt, a delicious, comforting meal to savor from time to time and share with a great full-bodied bottle of red wine you have been saving for that special occasion. Makes 4 servings 2 teaspoons sea salt, more as needed 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon ground coriander 4 pounds bone-in beef short ribs 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 3 leeks, white part only, sliced thin 2 large fennel bulbs, sliced thin 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cup red wine, Syrah 1

⁄ 2 cup pitted prunes, diced

Start by rubbing the salt, pepper and coriander all over the meat and let it marinate in the refrigerator for an hour or 2 or, ideally, overnight. Heat a large skillet on the stove over medium-high heat and sear the beef in the oil in batches, about 2 minutes per side, until evenly browned on all sides. Transfer the ribs to a plate as the pieces brown. Add the leeks, fennel and a pinch of salt to the same hot pan and cook until soft, about 8 minutes. Then stir in the garlic, smoked paprika and tomato paste; cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in the red wine and stir to combine.

— Chef Robin Goldstein

16 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

TENLE Y FOHL

Transfer all the sauce ingredients to a slow cooker, along with the short ribs and pitted prunes. Cook on high for 3 to 4 hours, or low for 6 to 8 hours. Serve over mashed potatoes or mashed cauliflower or root vegetables like parsnips.


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seasonal

Recipes

Dark Chocolate–Wine Truffles This may go without saying but it bears repeating: When pairing wine with chocolate, the chocolate should be of the highest quality. Whether the chocolate is white, milk or dark, its origins should be impeccable. As with food, the general rule is the darker the chocolate, the darker the wine. So, reds are ideal for dark chocolate. These decadent wine truffles are infused with red wine, but don’t feel constrained. Go ahead and experiment with making milkor white-chocolate truffles. I suggest making these at least a day before eating, to allow the wine flavor to intensify. They keep for up to a week, if they last that long! Makes about 2 dozen truffles 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, 60–70% cacao ½ cup heavy cream 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces Pinch of sea salt 1

⁄ 2 cup red wine

Raw cacao or cocoa powder

Coarsely chop the chocolate and place into a medium-sized bowl. Bring the cream to a simmer, add the butter and stir until melted. Pour the cream over the chocolate and stir with a spatula until the chocolate is melted. Add a big pinch of salt and the red wine and stir until the wine is incorporated. Pour into an 8- by 8-inch baking dish and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. For even portions, use a small metal cookie scoop to form each truffle. Coat your hands in cocoa powder and gently roll each truffle until it forms a uniform ball. Roll in cocoa to coat. Keep the truffles refrigerated and take them out about 30 minutes before serving.

Dark chocolate (50% to 70% cacao content) pairs well with more robust wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir and port. A Chianti can be lovely with chocolate around 65% cacao content, while sherry, a fruity Chardonnay or a sparkling wine will enliven your white-chocolate truffles as these wines will pick up on the buttery, fatty tones of the cocoa butter. Last but not least, milk chocolate marries well with a Merlot, Pinot Noir, Riesling and sweeter dessert wines. — Chef Robin Goldstein

18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

TENLEY FOHL

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seasonal

Recipes Fried Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmas) These minuscule bites of joy require a little bit of work but make wonderful appetizers. Perhaps my favorite thing to do with grape leaves is to make these stuffed with feta cheese, olives and pistachios; I have had success stuffing them with figs and gorgonzola cheese too. Makes 2 dozen 24 grape leaves, fresh or from a jar, drained and rinsed 1

⁄ 4 cup green olives, chopped fine

1

⁄ 4 cup Kalamata olives, chopped fine

1

⁄ 4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped fine

2 garlic cloves, minced 2 cups feta cheese, crumbled 1

⁄ 3 cup pistachio nuts, chopped fine

1

⁄ 4 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped fine

To stuff the leaves, start with your largest leaves and arrange 6 on a board in front of you. Carefully spread out the leaves with the veins facing upward (shiny side down). If a leaf is torn or has a hole in it, take a reserved damaged leaf and use it as a patch, placing it over the hole. Place a heaped tablespoon of the olive and feta mixture in the center near the stem end (the amount of stuffing will depend on the size of the leaves). Press the stuffing into a small sausage-like shape. Fold the stem end of the leaf over the filling, then fold both sides toward the middle and roll up into a cigar shape. The rolls, called dolmas, should be about 2 inches long and ½ inch thick. Squeeze lightly in the palm of your hand to secure the rolls. Repeat with the remaining grape leaves and filling. Heat a nonstick ceramic skillet over medium heat. When it’s good and hot, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. After a few seconds for the oil to heat, put in the dolmas with the last fold downward, to hold it in place. Fry until browned but not blackened, flip, and brown the other side. Transfer the fried dolmas to a serving dish. Serve warm with lemon.

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper Extra-virgin olive oil Lemon wedges

In a bowl, mix the olives, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, feta, chopped pistachios and basil with ¼ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Remember the olives are salted, and both the sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese can be salty too. (All of these ingredients can easily be combined by pulsing in a food processor.) 20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

Chef Robin Goldstein’s cooking career has been centered in California, where she has been preparing foods for clients for 35 years. She brings to the table a deep-felt art of balancing flavors while interacting with her private clients. Robin shares her delicious recipes through her popular cookbooks, perfectly paired for those who seek savory Mediterranean inspired flavors. Recipes from Simply Delicious Wine Country Recipes. Chef Robin Goldstein (Author), Tenley Allensworth Fohl (Photographer). Publisher: M27 Editions (Copyright © 2018)


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GARDEN

C AROLE TOPALIAN

KOBCHAI MATASUR AWIT

edible

Pepinos, Cukes & Melons by Joan S. Bolton

“A

lways growing” may describe the seasonal edibles thriving in our gardens just as easily as it describes the way many of us continuously seek to learn more about gardening. For me, I’m always eager to try new techniques, trends and hot plants. Straw bale gardening? Check. Hops? Check. Goji berries? Check. The latest “it” plant? Meet pepino dulce, a fetching egg-shaped fruit that bears cream-colored skin suffused with watercolor brush strokes of dark purple and delivers a sweet, mild flavor. As proof of its widespread appeal, pepino dulce has transcended the gardening world and emerged on fashion pages. I recently received a clothing catalog that featured on its cover a petite pepino delicately perched on the crest of a saddlebag purse.

22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

What’s the Fuss? In Spanish, pepino dulce means sweet cucumber. But while its melon-like flesh offers hints of cucumber and honeydew, the new novelty is neither cucumber nor melon. Instead, it’s an evergreen member of the solanaceae or nightshade family, which encompasses tomatoes, tomatillos, eggplants and potatoes. It’s from frost-free areas in the Andes ranging from near sea level to 10,000 feet and dates back to the Incans. Pepino dulce is not a well-known commercial crop. It bruises easily and is fragile to ship. Production is primarily limited to South America, New Zealand and Australia. Some specialty companies, such as Frieda’s, import the fruit to the United States.


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Harvest in late summer or early fall when the fruit ripens. Look for the pretty purple stripes to darken up, the flesh to yield when you gently press on it and a whiff of sweet honeydew. It may take a few tries to get the timing right.

LIANE NOTHAF T

Let’s Not Forget Those Faux Relatives

Despite its relative rarity, though, pepino dulce was grown in Santa Barbara as early as 1897 by an adventurous, world-class horticulturist, Francesco Franceschi, according to California Rare Fruit Growers’ Fruit Facts. Today, the sweet fruit flourishes in the bluff-top Lifescapes Garden at Santa Barbara City College.

In the Garden Pepino dulce likes the same conditions as eggplant and peppers: hot days, warm nights, nearly constant moisture and good drainage, which may be accomplished with a raised bed or container. Sow the seeds now in flats, four-inch pots or similar containers with drain holes. But wait until nights begin to warm up in June before transplanting them to the garden. While they may flower earlier, the plants won’t begin setting fruit until night-time temperatures reach 65°. Space your plants several feet apart. While they aren’t likely to set speed records, they may eventually grow about three feet tall and wide. Choose a warm, bright spot that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily. All the better is a location near a south-facing, light-colored fence or wall that reflects sunlight, or next to a dark-colored patio or asphalt driveway to capture radiant heat. Pepinos don’t like frost. If you garden in an inland valley, grow them in a large container that you can move to a warmer place over winter. Plants also have shallow roots. Water frequently to keep the soil damp but not soggy—that’s where good drainage comes in. If the soil starts to dry out or get crusty, gently loosen the top layer and sprinkle half an inch of fine compost on top every few weeks. 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

If you’re still craving true cucumbers and melons, April and May are fine months to start those worthy summer edibles, too. Growing cucumbers from seed provides a slew of possibilities, from traditional slicers to burpless, bumpy or thinskinned Oriental varieties. They may be as small as a thumb, as large as a cantaloupe, and round, pear-shaped, straight, curved, slender or gourd-like. They may be eaten fresh, cooked in a meal or pickled for the future. In the garden, stumpy little pickling cucumbers that pack well in a pickle jar form relatively small plants that are perfect in a patio pot. Baby pickles are quick. Bush Pickle’s cute, four-inch fruits appear in just 45 days, while petite one- to two-inch-long French cornichons or gherkins take only a week longer. Fresh cucumbers are often longer, smoother, may need staking and are later to harvest. Most bear cukes eight to 12 inches long, although the nearly white, thin-skinned Armenian Yard-Long may stretch to three feet. Get a jump on your crop by sowing seeds in containers alongside your pepinos, then transplanting them to the garden once they develop a few sets of true leaves (cool nights shouldn’t hold you back). However, if you like your cucumbers crisp and mild, consider waiting until the weather warms up. Mild, crispy varieties are tastiest when they grow fast. Slow them down and you risk a bitter harvest.

The Sprawlers Melons—cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon and the like—take considerably more space, often sending trailing vines and giant leaves four to six feet in every direction. Rather than prepping the entire area, create a nicely amended, fertile, well-draining mound the diameter of a trash can lid, shape a watering basin around the perimeter, then sow four to five seeds on top. Note that some melons require a longer stretch of summer heat than is typical on the coast and may stop growing when temperatures drop below 70°. In those areas, look for smaller, fast-ripening varieties that grow on shorter vines, such as Inspire cantaloupe, which bears dainty one- to two-pound fruit just 65 days after transplanting, and Mini Love watermelon, which produces seven- to nine-pound fruit in 70 days. Inland, you should be fine growing larger varieties like the beautiful heirloom Moon and Stars watermelon, which grows to a hefty 25 pounds, but takes 100 days to get there. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com


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drinkable

LANDSCAPE

Vermouth

Serves Cocktails Upside-Down by George Yatchisin

V

ermouth is always about to have its moment. (Note: I mean in the U.S., as really civilized places like Barcelona and Milan would be shaking their cool collective heads at that first sentence.) Just check major papers, and every five years or so their lifestyle pages will have an “Artisanal Vermouth Emerges as an Aperitif ” story. To make a vermouth, you start with white wine, fortify it with a spirit, and then the fun begins. It’s time to start adding botanicals, from wormwood (whence vermouth gets its name from German) to, if you’re making a local vermouth, hummingbird sage. You probably won’t stop until you get to a dozen or more. At least that’s what T.W. Hollister & Co. has done with their just-released vermouths out of Carpinteria, both called Oso de Oro. A three-headed creative team has brought these lovely products to life: The Hollister is Kyle Hollister—yes, of the famous local family—but then there’s his longtime friend (they were born on the same day in Cottage Hospital) Jesse Smith, helping with the local agricultural knowledge. Add to them wine and vermouth maker Carl Sutton, who mostly made his name in San Francisco, and you get a wealth of wisdom to create new spirits. For instance, that headline I mentioned above was from a 2010 New York Times story featuring Sutton. To highlight their just-released dry and sweet vermouths, I turned to something old that’s definitely worth being new again: variations on the two kings of the cocktail—the martini and the Manhattan. Of course, these are generally known to star gin (please, please not vodka—that’s just a vodka cocktail) and rye or bourbon, respectively. But historically (preProhibition, that is), both featured a ratio of more vermouth than the boozier co-ingredient. The cocktails done this way, vermouth heavy, are often called upside-down or reverse, for obvious reasons. 26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

The obvious reasons people gave up on drinking the drinks this way—jokes about dry, vermouth-less martinis made many a New Yorker cartoonists’ career back in the day—are led by America’s greater and greater need to get kicked upside the head to feel we’re enjoying something. We are not a subtle nation by nature, and that’s even before we ended up with our current oaf of a president. But it’s also because vermouths got worse and worse as they became mass market, while gin and rye got better and better post-Prohibition bathtub versions. To top it off, people hung on to bottles of vermouth for years in a liquor cabinet, where they went bad. I mean, you don’t open a bottle of wine and drink it for months, do you? At the least, you’d get it in a refrigerator. So get that opened vermouth fridged up fast. But how delicious they are, so many wonderful different waves of flavors from all those botanicals, 12 in the dry, 19


Recipes Hollister Takes Manhattan Makes 2 cocktails 4 ounces T.W. Hollister & Co. Oso de Oro Sweet Vermouth 2 ounces rye 2 dashes per drink of Angostura Bitters 1 house-prepared cherry (per drink)

Add the vermouth, rye and bitters to a cocktail shaker with ice. Stir until cold. Strain into two coupes. Add a cherry to each drink.

Vermouth Over Martini Makes 2 cocktails 4 ounces T.W. Hollister & Co. Oso de Oro Dry Vermouth 2 ounces gin 1 lemon peel (per drink)

Add the vermouth and gin to a cocktail shaker with ice. Stir until cold. Strain into two coupes. Add a lemon peel to each drink.

The Best “Maraschino” Cherries 1

⁄ 4 cup sugar

1

⁄ 4 cup water

in the sweet! The stronger spirits sort of give them one extrafortified push in your glass, just the way a splash of water actually makes your single-malt whiskey taste better. You need to unlock each liquor’s code. I’d swear the dry vermouth in the Vermouth Over Martini even hints at baking spice. Perhaps that’s one reason they were beloved by none other than Julia Child? Hence, one more Santa Barbara link to these products, and one more selling point for upside-down drinks— vermouth has less alcohol, so these variations keep you from getting schnockered. Both the sweet (blood orange) and the dry (orange) highlight citrus a tad more than other designer vermouths do, but that’s also fitting given our location and what grows so well here. Speaking of things growing here, especially those that plop perfectly into a Manhattan, it’s time to make some cherries to last you for a year of cocktails (they go in Aviations, too, and you can always top a really adult sundae with them). While the window for cherries is sadly quick, you can preserve them by following the recipe below. These are so much better than those bright red glowing things most stores sell. “We’re looking for people making more heavy-handed pours,” Jesse Smith has said about Oso de Oro. “We don’t want it left on the back of a bar for special occasions.” These two drinks take the Hollister gang at their word. George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.

2 teaspoon lemon juice 1 cinnamon stick Pinch freshly grated nutmeg 1

⁄ 2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 pint sweet cherries 1

⁄ 2 cup of Luxardo Maraschino liqueur

Clean and stem the cherries and pit them. Having one-purpose kitchen tools is a drag, but nothing beats a cherry pitter for this chore. (And don’t wear light clothes you don’t want stained.) Combine the sugar, water, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla in a saucepan just big enough to later hold the cherries too. Stir and bring to a full boil. Reduce heat to medium and add cherries. Simmer for 7 minutes. Remove from heat and add liqueur. Pour into a clean jar. Let cool to room temperature. Seal with lid and refrigerate. These can last a full year, depending on how quickly you go through them, and will stay good, if get a bit softer with time.

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global

LOCAL CUISINE

A table full of tapas.

Spanish Influences by Laura Booras PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL FERNANDEZ

S

everal years ago I decided to make it a priority to do as much of my shopping as possible through small businesses and our area’s bountiful farmers markets. It’s important to me, and many others in the Edible community, to know what’s in our food and—sometimes more importantly— who is responsible for putting it on our tables. And while I personally don’t want to kill and butcher a rabbit myself, for example, I appreciate the people who are willing to do this for me so that I know I’m using responsibly raised, local ingredients. For over 15 years I have regularly visited the Solvang Farmers Market on Wednesdays, and Jimenez Family Farm has become one of my favorite purveyors. This true family business consists of Marcie and Gustavo Jimenez, who took over for Marcie’s

28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

father George Matsukas, a longtime Santa Ynez rancher, in 2002. Both had a deep passion for animal husbandry and farming, hers honed at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo and his at the University of Guadalajara in Mexico. Their son and daughter, George and Christie, also participate, representing the family at markets and assisting with ranch duties. Together, the family raises rabbits, goats, pigs, chickens and sheep, along with a beautiful variety of vegetables grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizers. I arrived at the farm in early spring, and the clouds of an approaching storm were just rolling in. Marcie greeted me with a smile as ranch dogs ran alongside. The dogs protect the animals from coyotes, which have become more threatening each year. Raising animals on a ranch is not for the faint of heart. Just as I


Roasted Peppers on Grilled Lamb Chops Roasted red peppers are simple to prepare and make the entire house smell delicious. You can also substitute canned ones if you are short on time. The smaller “lollipop” lamb chops work well as tapas, whereas larger ones can easily be a main course. Serve with a slice of warm bread.

Rabbit Albondigas in Tomato Sauce I fell in love with the Jimenez Family Farm rabbit sausage years ago, and we eat it all the time. One of my favorite ways to prepare it is as a meatball—and this simple sauce gives it a lovely and subtle Spanish flair. Makes 4–6 servings 1 pound rabbit sausage

Makes 4 servings

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 egg

1 teaspoon cumin

1

⁄ 4 cup milk

1 teaspoon paprika

1

⁄ 2 cup breadcrumbs

Salt and pepper

1

⁄ 2 small onion, grated

4 lamb chops

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

5 large red peppers

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 cloves garlic, sliced

1

⁄ 2 cup tomato paste

1

⁄ 3 cup olive oil, like Arbequina

1 cup red wine

1

⁄ 4 cup sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon paprika

Chopped parsley

1 tablespoon honey

Salt to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 450°F. Mix the garlic powder, cumin and paprika together. Add salt and pepper to your liking. Rub the chops all over with this mixture and refrigerate until ready to prepare.

Preheat the oven to 475°F.

Cut peppers in half and remove the stems and seeds. Place cut side down on a greased baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place in the oven and roast for about 30 minutes, until charred slightly. Put immediately into a heat-proof bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let sit another 30 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel off the skins, reserving the peppers in another bowl. Add garlic, olive oil and vinegar, and mix so that the peppers are coated. Season with salt. Cover and let marinate 2 hours. Heat a grill and rub the chops with olive oil. Grill until medium, about 4 minutes per side, or until done. Toss peppers with chopped parsley, then top the lamb chops with the roasted red pepper mixture and serve.

Squeeze the sausage from the casing and put into a large bowl. Add half of the garlic, egg, milk, breadcrumbs and onion, and mix gently to combine. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Don’t overmix or the meatballs will be tough. Form into small balls —I like slightly smaller than golf ball size so that they are easy to pick up with a toothpick. Put into a sprayed baking sheet, and put into the oven for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned on top. To make the sauce, heat the olive oil and add the rest of the garlic, then add the tomatoes, being careful not to burn the garlic. Crush the tomatoes lightly, then add the wine, tomato paste, paprika and honey. Season to taste and simmer for about 15 minutes, until slightly thickened. Once browned, add the meatballs to the sauce (thin the sauce with a little water if it gets too thick) and simmer for 5 minutes. Season one last time and serve immediately. EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 29


Roasted Baby Carrots When I was in Barcelona as a teenager I enjoyed something similar one night with my family. This is my own version of that recipe. It’s simple, but the garlic and sweet carrots make a magical combination. Makes 4–6 servings 1 pound baby carrots 1 small clove garlic, minced 3 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon paprika Salt Chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare the carrots by peeling them and trimming the tops. I like to leave them whole, but if you’re using larger ones feel free to cut them into chunks. Toss with the garlic, olive oil, paprika and salt. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, or until lightly browned. Sprinkle with chopped parsley just before serving.

Wine Pairings

S

2017 Kenneth Volk “Riverbench Vineyard” Albariño This wine pops with bright lemon and a bit of spritz, and is a stunning pairing with the rabbit albondigas.

2017 Longoria Tempranillo Deep ruby in color, this rich, spicy wine is the perfect accompaniment to many tapas dishes, but a surprising red pepper on the finish makes it a lovely match for the red pepper lamb chops.

30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

From left: Marcie, Laura and Gustavo at the Jimenez Family Farm.

arrived, in fact, Gus came forward with a 2-week-old baby goat he had rescued from the mud. Fortunately, the baby was just fine once it was cleaned up. It is quite a rush to stand in a grassy green field and have a flock of sheep charge ahead all around you. This particular group was herded by Goose, an actual goose who seemed to be the self-proclaimed leader. Gus, clearly in control, kept the animals in a tight circle. Marcie and Gus were preparing for the birthing season; the first lambs were expected any day. “The animals do most of the work,” says Gus. “But I don’t leave their sides, just in case something happens during the process.” Though the sheep bleated enthusiastically and the rabbits looked cute and fuzzy, I was reminded that these are not pets. These are animals raised humanely on healthy foods and with the best care, with the intention of being consumed. Every product, from the rabbit sausage—one of my first discoveries of Jimenez Family Farm—to the lamb chops and goat meat, is delicious, lean and nutritious. The added bonus? It comes from a family-owned farm just down the road. While you could use these meats for almost any cuisine, I have chosen to focus on Spanish dishes. In Spain, a variety of small portions of foods are presented throughout a meal, consumed freely along with great conversation and friends. Garlic, onions and tomatoes are featured prominently, though the recipes here are chosen to showcase the truly special meats sold by the farm. A table full of tapas paired with a local Tempranillo is the perfect way to celebrate spring in Santa Barbara; it just doesn’t get more local than that. Alumna of the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Laura Booras is the CEO and director of winemaking at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery in the Santa Maria Valley. She lives on the vineyard, where she regularly hosts food writers, celebrity chefs and wine critics for unique meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients.


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edible

VOICES

Anthony Carroccio

Organic Soup Kitchen

Celebrates a Decade of Service by Jill Johnson PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA CURRY

“A

cheerful heart is good medicine, but not on an empty stomach” is an apropos Thai proverb that lights the way for Anthony Carroccio as he ventures along the occupational (and metaphysical) path that he started upon a decade ago. Times were tough then, in the midst of the recession, and people were in need of sustenance. Emotional. Spiritual. Nutritional. Anthony saw the need, felt the pain and decided that, while he might not be able to provide help for all that ails the world, or the community, he could at least provide food—

32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

with nothing being more nourishing than organic soup. And, thus began Organic Soup Kitchen. Anthony started with helping the often-forgotten members of our community: the homeless and the veterans, who many times were one and the same. Word spread and those who were in need began to venture forth out of the shadows of humiliation to seek help and support. Community members who for years had asked themselves “How can I help?” finally saw a way that they could.


A nourishing bowl of split pea soup.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 33


Organic Soup Kitchen (OSK) began working with an inspired volunteer force and partnering with organizations such as Doctors Without Walls to bring good medicine and good food to the streets. OSK put together Christmas and Thanksgiving events, welcoming every member of the community to come share delicious soups, additional donated food, contributed gifts and a little bit of humanity. There are not many places you can find local celebrities, teachers, millionaires, business people, politicians and the homeless sitting with one another, sharing stories and laughs as equals. Proof that the power of food brings people together. OSK began to grow, as did the needs of the community. A board was formed to expand the mission and manage the logistics of growing from 4,000 servings per year in 2009 to over 100,000 per year currently… and growing. People from a wide variety of fields came together, bringing their life experiences and expertise along with a willingness to help. “The factors all our board members have in common is that they are all business people with a heart full of compassion—what we find rare in today’s divisive climate,” notes Anthony. Another branch to Anthony’s path was added when a call came in from an oncology nurse at the Cancer Center. The nurse asked if OSK could purée some of their organic nutrientdense soups for a patient suffering with dysphagia (difficulty swallowing solids). “Originally, I replied that we didn’t do that. Then we thought about it, and made the delivery,” he said. In the weeks after that first initial fulfillment, OSK learned that there were many low-income individuals in our community undergoing treatment for cancer, battling the disease without having the resources to afford the quality nutrition that OSK produces and distributes. OSK now delivers to over 200 of those individuals. There are no diets that, as of yet, have proven to prevent cancer but there are clinically based nutritional requirements that need to be met to help boost the immune system, a very important component in dealing with a cancer prognosis. Organic, plant-based and with healthy fats all meet the guidelines and all are found in the ingredients that OSK uses for their soups—high-quality herbs and spices, organic whole grains, organic coconut oils and milk and organic vegetables. They use local sources for the produce and a local supplier to obtain the organic coconut oils and milk from Thailand. The non-irradiated herbs and spices are from Portland, Oregon, and come with a certification of their nutritional value. Although the soups—such as the popular varieties Coconut Curry Lentil, Split Pea and Summer Squash—are delicious, they are formulated with the nutritional value as the highest concern. “If a cancer patient can only get a few spoonfuls of soup down per day, they better count,” Anthony says.

34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

In order to handle the large volume of food for clients with fragile immune systems and without using harmful preservatives or additives, OSK had to use hermetically sealed packaging to extend the shelf life organically. The “bag” of soup might not look as familiar as a round can or container, but the soothing deliciousness is just as welcome. With meal production growing and services expanding due to need, OSK has embarked upon a capital campaign to move into larger facilities—a cancer relief “hub.” They seek headquarters that will provide work/office space and storage areas for both dry and perishable goods. They also need a multipurpose conference room in which they can hold community classes and informational sessions with their many partners, including Cottage Hospital, Ridley Tree Cancer Center, Sansum Clinic, Visiting Nurse and Hospice Care, Teddy Bear Cancer Foundation, American Red Cross and American Cancer Society. They are also planning to create a full production kitchen that can serve as a disaster relief kitchen with a diesel generated system in times of need. During the devastating Thomas Fire and the Montecito Debris Slide last year, OSK found themselves providing emergency soup and other items to both the victims of the disasters and the emergency responders. A decade. Ten years. Throughout history the meaning of numbers played a major part in beliefs and 10 has held a powerful hold on symbolism. Pythagoreans believed that 10 was the holiest of numbers and took their oaths by it. In Tarot, the 10 card is the Wheel of Fortune, symbolizing the beginning of a new cycle. This year, OSK will honor their 10 years with a series of public events through the year to celebrate a new beginning, with new challenges, new headquarters and a continued oath to serve the community. And what has Anthony learned about himself these past 10 years serving others? “The last 10 years of my life would never have been so wonderful if it wasn’t for the wonderful people in my life.” And what inspires the man who inspires so many here locally? “Inspiration comes to me when I speak to someone who is fighting cancer. All the facade of daily propaganda as fallen away, and I find myself speaking with their soul.” Another Thai proverb could aptly apply to his life: “Do not live as if you were to die tomorrow. Live as if every person you meet were to die tomorrow.” Namaste, Anthony. Namaste. Jill Johnson is an artistic soul with an inquisitive mind and a hearty appetite for life. Her food adventures began early in life with picking blueberries and milking cows in Vermont, maple syrup slurping in New Hampshire and mahi-mahi fishing in Florida. She enjoys swigging coffee, playing the ponies and trying to pronounce words in Finnish.


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Wine Not? by Leslie A. Westbrook

M

y professional wine career began, unexpectedly and unintentionally, in the mid-late 1980s in New York City. I was working at Vanity Fair magazine, where my title was “research associate”—a fancy name for fact-checker. My main duty was to go through articles before they were published in search of errors, misquotes (compared to transcripts or tapes), misspelled names, inaccurate historical references (super fun) and, in certain cases, potential liability/legal issues, which would be referred up a few floors to the legal department at 350 Madison Ave. From Armani (who had “a smile like a triangle”) to Anne Rice with an “e” at the end (whoops, missed that one!), every week brought a different challenge. Then I was assigned the wine column.

36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019


Every month a shipment would be delivered to my desk, postmarked North Carolina, filled with (drum roll, please!): empty wine bottles! Joel L. Fleishman, who worked at Duke University, penned the column. At the time, I thought he was the college president and wondered how he’d have time to drink and write about wine. Turns out he was—and still is—a law professor. After carefully opening the cardboard box, I’d pull out each bottle and place it on my desk. Anyone passing by probably wondered what a 30-ish California girl with long brown hair was doing with a dozen empty wine bottles on her desk? (Then again, that’s very California, don’t you think?)

“My job was to make sure the labels matched the copy (everything spelled correctly—this was long before the Internet and Google) and check the prices quoted for accuracy in case readers wanted to run out and buy a bottle.” One time, I sliced my finger on a bottle that had broken during its journey north. I complained to Mr. Fleishman, noting that the least he could do was send ONE bottle with wine in it. He laughed. I don’t recall that he ever did. My job was to make sure the labels matched the copy (everything spelled correctly—this was long before the Internet and Google) and check the prices quoted for accuracy in case readers wanted to run out and buy a bottle. That meant calling a few wine stores around the country.

ANASTASY YARMOLOVICH

This was the perfect excuse to make a long distance call for free. I’d call David Russell at The Wine Cask wine shop in Santa Barbara, ostensibly to confirm prices, but really to find out what was happening in my hometown. From that time on (and to this day), I wrote travel stories and restaurant reviews that included covering wine. Whenever an oenophile friend and I would visit vineyards or attend wine industry events together, my pal (blessed with a bear’s sense of smell) detected about 30 more layers in a glass of wine than I ever could. (Maybe I’m one of those people deprived of certain olfactory capabilities?). But I knew what I loved when it came to taste. Could I describe it? Sometimes.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 37


I told Hugh Margerum that the “witch’s hat” cheese he selected at C’est Cheese recently, when we grabbed bread and cheese to accompany our wine-tasting foray through the Presidio Neighborhood, smelled like old socks. However, I rarely taste or smell cigars or old socks or other things wine writers tend to use in their descriptions. Maybe that’s a good thing. I have whiffed butterscotch, if that counts. Rewind a couple of years, back to when I applied for and was awarded a fellowship to the Napa Valley Wine Writers Symposium. Journalists from around the globe attend to improve their wine writing skills. Special lecturers that year included the admirable, acclaimed English wine writer Hugh Johnson, who came from London, and wine columnist-cumnovelist Jay McInerney, who lives in the Hamptons. As luck would have it, I came down with a horrible cold prior to the four-night symposium at Meadwood Resort, the Culinary Institute and various wineries in the Valley. Not only could I not smell or taste, but I was coughing, hacking, blowing my nose and bundled up to stay warm at lovely evening events which, more often than not, took place out of doors. It seemed as if everyone but me knew what he or she was doing. (Cough, cough.) They sipped with finesse. (Ah-choo!) They swirled with conviction. (Hack! Hack!) They chatted in a language I didn’t fully understand. I felt like the awkward girl in ballet class who can’t quite keep up or plié, so she keeps wiping her pink slippers in the chalky stuff in the back corner.

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In the years between fact checking and becoming a “fellow,” I’ve been enjoying wine just fine. I’ve had a ’53 Margeaux and a great $3.99 Syrah from Grocery Outlet. French wine, Italian wine, “down under” wine, South African wine, and Spanish and Portuguese wines sipped in Spain and the Douro Valley. And yes, wine from my home state of California— from Mendocino to Lake County; Napa to Sonoma; Monterey to Paso; Santa Barbara to Ojai. Once, I even tried pineapple wine in Hawaii. (Please. Just don’t.) This is a long way of saying I’m just a regular schmo when it comes to wine. Because in the end, it really doesn’t matter if a wine wins an award or if it costs $500 or $5.99, as long as it tastes good. And you like it. Award-winning writer/author Leslie Andrea Westbrook is a thirdgeneration Californian on both her Sicilian (maternal) and Westbrook (paternal) sides. Her articles appear nationally (Traditional Home magazine), regionally in California and online globally. She can be reached at LeslieAWestbrook@gmail.com


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Beginner’s Guide to Tasting Wine by Hana-Lee Sedgwick

R

egardless of your level of wine expertise—beginner, enthusiast or expert—one of the best ways to appreciate wine is to know how to properly taste it. Sounds simple enough, right? For many people, especially to more novice drinkers, the art of tasting may be a bit confusing and/or intimidating, which is understandable. The good news is, there aren’t strict tasting “rules” you need to follow, but rather a few simple steps that will help you to better understand and enjoy what’s in your glass. After all, wine tasting can and should be a fun and pleasurable experience, so let’s dive in!

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HOW TO TASTE WINE Essentially, wine tasting can be broken down into four easy “S” steps: see, swirl, smell and sip. Each step helps to fully take in all of the special nuances of a wine by focusing your attention on each individual component—from the way it looks to the way it tastes. No, you don’t need extra taste buds to be a good wine taster. All you need is a consistent tasting technique to practice, because just like learning to ski or play an instrument, practice makes perfect.


Repeat Now that you’ve mastered the four easy steps to wine tasting, repeat the process a few times to hone in on what you’re smelling and tasting. MORE ON AROMAS Aromas can be broken down into three categories, some derived from the grape and others from the winemaking process or aging vessel: Primary aromas are grape-derived aromas and include dominant fruity, herbal and floral notes.

See Tasting wine stirs all the senses, including sight, so before you actually get to the tasting part be sure to take a good look at the wine. Tip your glass at an angle (preferably against a white background) and check out the hue and intensity of color. Is it clear or cloudy? Pale or deep in color? The appearance of a wine can reveal its age, the type of grape and even whether it is high or low in acid, but unless you’re blind tasting or training for a wine exam you don’t need to spend too much time on this step. As a general rule, though, the darker the color, the fuller-bodied the wine. And when there’s aging involved, white wines darken and take on more golden or amber hues, while red wines lighten and turn more brown in color. Swirl & Smell A little-known fact about tasting wine is that your nose is the key to your palate. There are hundreds of aroma compounds found in wine, so much of your overall satisfaction in a wine comes from smelling it before you take a sip. First, hold your glass under your nose and take a small sniff. Then, swirl the wine a bit to release the aromas by adding oxygen. Swirling lets the wine “breathe” so it opens up and carries those aromas to your nose. Now, take a few whiffs and notice whether you recognize more aromas than the first time you sniffed. Are the aromas pleasant or unappealing? Do you notice fruit, earth, dried herbs? If you get strawberry aromas, can you pinpoint if it’s fresh, stewed or dried strawberry? Don’t worry if you have a tough time identifying aromas at first, or if the aromas you do recognize seem strange to you. Bubblegum, cured meat and freshly cut grass have all been used before, and yes, even “cat pee” is a descriptor, so don’t be afraid to say what comes to you. Certain grapes and certain places will impart unique smells, while production techniques can add additional aromas, as well. We’ll get to those later. Sip After you’ve sniffed the wine a bit, it’s time to take a sip. There’s no set practice when it comes to tasting, but professionals usually “chew” on the wine, letting it roll around in the mouth to envelop all areas of the tongue. However you want to do it, and whether you decide to spit or swallow, start to take note of the way the wine hits your taste buds and the flavors you perceive.

Secondary aromas come from the winemaking practices, such as fermentation techniques. These can smell of buttered brioche or cheese rind, have nutty characteristics or even impart yeast-like aromas. Tertiary aromas come from the aging process, such as oak barrel aging, and can include notes of vanilla, coconut, baking spices, roasted nuts, tobacco, cigar box or leather.

WHAT ABOUT FAULTS? Awful aromas or intensely funky smells could be a sign the wine isn’t in prime condition. A few faulty indicators include the smell of must or wet cardboard (often described as “corked”), barnyard or wet horse, rancid butter and matchsticks or burnt rubber, to name a few. Some of these flaws result from a problem with winemaking, while others are caused by improper handling and storage. While these can be signs of a technical flaw in the wine, they’re not always a deal breaker, so if you think that a horsey smell gives the wine character, then by all means, drink up!

DECODING TASTE While looking and smelling are essential parts of the process, actually tasting the wine is inarguably the fun part. Learning to communicate what you taste can come with its challenges, though, so here’s an easy guide to understanding a few key components:

Acidity Acidity makes your mouth water, like a tart lemon or cranberry, which tends to make the wine seem refreshing and zesty. Too much acidity can taste harsh, like your teeth are being stripped of enamel, while not enough acidity will make the wine seem flabby in the mouth. Bitter Does the wine seem astringent by drying out your mouth like tea that has been steeping too long? That’s the result of tannins, which can be derived from the grape skins, seeds and stems, or from extended aging in oak. Depending on the wine and your preferences, tannins can be a good thing, providing structure and shelf life.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 41


Sweetness Is the wine sweet or dry? If you think it’s sweet, try to decipher between sweetness from residual sugar left after fermentation and perceived sweetness from fruit-forward flavors. Alcohol Yes, all wine has alcohol, but does it feel warm or hot in your throat? That’s a sign of a higher level of alcohol in the wine. Body Body is the general weight of the wine in the mouth, otherwise known as viscosity—think skim milk versus whole milk when comparing light-bodied to full-bodied wine. Generally speaking, the higher the alcohol content, the higher the tannin, and the richer the wine is, the fuller the body. Length Take note of how long the flavors and/or textures of the wine linger on your palate after you swallow. Does it have a lengthy finish or does it fall short almost immediately? A long finish can last several seconds or more. Complexity The more flavors you can decipher, the more complex the wine is. This is when you can determine if the wine is interesting or one-dimensional. DRAWING CONCLUSIONS Now that you’ve looked, swirled, sniffed and tasted a few times, take the time to evaluate the overall impression of the wine. This is when you’ll be able to differentiate good wine from great wine. Does it seem balanced, with each component harmoniously working together? Or does one thing stick out and overpower everything else? Developing a palate won’t happen overnight, but the process of tasting will help you pay attention to what you’re drinking. Whether or not the wine fits into the textbook “balanced” category, the most important question to ask yourself when tasting is if the wine is enjoyable to you. In the end, that’s really all that matters.

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER Temperature If you’ve ever had warm beer or soda, you probably agree that the chilled versions are far superior. Temperature is also hugely important in wine. Overly chilling a wine can mask the delicate aromas or make it seem flavorless, while a wine that’s too warm can overemphasize the alcohol. Try serving sparkling wines between 38–44°F, white wines between 44–52°F and red wines around 53–68°F. Lighter styles should be served on the cooler side, while wines with oak aging, more pronounced tannic structures or sweeter styles should be on the warmer side within each range.

42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

White

Standard

Light Red Bold Red Dessert

Glassware While it’s certainly not necessary to spend a fortune on the “right” glassware for each wine varietal, there is truth in how the shape of a glass can make a difference in the wine’s overall enjoyment. Certain glasses are specifically designed to accentuate the defining characteristics of a wine, directing aromas and taste profiles to hit different areas of the nose and tongue. If tasting at home, you might want to invest in glassware that is universal, meaning it’s suitable to most varieties, or ones that highlight your favorite style of wine. Stemmed glasses are ideal so that the warmth of your hand doesn’t alter the temperature of the wine. Good wine glasses are also clear, so as not to interfere with seeing the wine’s color. Of course, if all you have is a juice glass or tumbler, no judgment; but when evaluating wine, pay attention to how the wine comes alive, or not, in the vessel you’re drinking it from. Eager to learn more? There are plenty of great places throughout Santa Barbara County to learn while you sip. From wine bars with knowledgeable staff to organized tastings and educational seminars at restaurants, there’s no better place to perfect your tasting skills and enhance your wine knowledge than right here in our backyard. Every Sunday from 1 to 6pm, Santa Barbara’s Villa Wine Bar joins forces with Crush It Wine Education to offer “Sunday School,” a self-guided, educational tasting of three wines with three food pairings. At the Wine Shepherd in Santa Barbara, put your tasting skills to the test at their Blind Tuesday tasting, which includes a sampling of wines to evaluate without the influence of a label or varietal. You can join anytime between 3 and 9pm. You’ll also find blind tasting experiences in Santa Barbara offered every Tuesday at Satellite and the first Tuesday of every month at Wine + Beer, which is led by one of their in-house sommeliers. And be sure to check the events calendar of Les Marchands, where you’ll find educational seminars and winemaker-led tastings offered several times a year. If you’re ready to get serious about wine education and pursue a certification, Satellite offers Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) wine certification courses a couple of times a year. You can also find a variety of online wine programs and specialized certifications that will help you take your wine knowledge to the next level. Cin Cin! Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a Santa Barbara native who writes about wine, food and travel. As a freelance writer, editor and wine consultant, she happily spends her downtime eating, drinking and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.


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The Gamay Has Arrived! by Adam McHugh P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y E R I N F E I N B L AT T

O

n November 16, 2017, Stephen Janes, estate manager of Pence Vineyards

west of Buellton in the Sta. Rita Hills, delivered a new wine to his restaurant and retail accounts in Los Angeles. It was the third Thursday of November and he was hand-delivering the premiere vintage of Pence Gamay Nouveau. It has been some time since the proclamation “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!” inspired boozy choruses among winebar patrons, at least outside of France. But there was a heady stretch in the 1970s and ’80s when a dozen or more wineries in Beaujolais, in the southern reach of Burgundy, would start their engines at 12:01am on the third Thursday of November to get their Beaujolais Nouveau to highways and airports so wine drinkers around the world could enjoy it on that same day. There are stories of the wines parachuted off cargo planes into London and shot over the Atlantic on the supersonic Concorde into Manhattan, nose-diving into JFK just gently enough to keep the hastily made, still slightly fizzy Nouveau from popping its cork. It arrived just in time for Thanksgiving, and inevitably the cheap but gulpable wines made their way to Thanksgiving dinner tables across the land.

Now Beaujolais Nouveau Day has lost most of its buzz, and those who still buy a bottle on the third Thursday do so more as a dutiful, rather mirthless ritual, like eating fruitcake at Christmas or going to work in the morning. The wine is intended to celebrate the harvest just a few weeks past, as a precursor to the greatness that is coming, but it is often rushed to the marketplace, with the grapes sometimes picked too early in order to get the wine out the door on the right day. The large-scale commercial version is grapey and light and smells just a bit of chewing gum and banana Laffy Taffy, which makes it amusing if not terribly serious. But there has been a resurgence in popularity in recent years for Beaujolais and the grape it is made from, called Gamay Noir. Long forgotten is the 1395 decree of Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who called Gamay “very bad and disloyal” and banished Gamay vines from Burgundy. Now the hipster somms in New York and San Francisco are spinning vinyl and quaffing cru Beaujolais, a more serious version of Gamay made from 10 villages in the northern part of the region, where the soils are rocky granite and the best versions of Beaujolais can taste like well-made Pinot Noir. Meanwhile, here in Santa Barbara County, there is a growing wave of enthusiasm among small producers for Gamay, both because of the intrigue of the varietal itself and its relative affordability compared to its sister grape, Pinot Noir. Wines made from Gamay feature qualities familiar to Pinot drinkers: zippy acidity and gentle tannins with red fruit and earth. It is often even lighter than Pinot and bears a magnificent magenta color in the glass. That color is why Pence decided to bottle their Gamay Nouveau in clear glass.

Opposite: Bud break in the Gamay vines at Pence Vineyards.

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Above: Pence Vineyards. Right: The lineup of Pence Gamay Nouveau, Gamay and their longer-aged Gamay called “PTG.”

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Jessica Gasca and her son Emerson in their Los Olivos tasting room.

The Nouveau version of Gamay is made quickly, bottled in just a matter of weeks, and if made with quality fruit is deliciously fresh and vibrant. Stephen Janes admits that Pence had no intention of making a Nouveau in 2017. “I walked into the winery one morning, and Sashi [Moorman] and John [Faulkner] and Raj [Parr] are tasting the wines around the fermenter, and they had the biggest grins on their faces, and they said ‘Do you want to try your new Nouveau?’ I was taken completely off guard. But the wine was just electric.” Jessica Gasca, owner and winemaker of Story of Soil in Los Olivos, makes 125 cases of Gamay sourced from Martian Ranch in Los Alamos, which was first released in March 2018 and was sold out by summer. It is not a Nouveau but spends just six months in large-format barrels before release. She explains her draw to Gamay: “With any of the varietals that I search out, there has to be something that sparks an interest for me. Gamay is one of the grapes that is wildly interesting to me. There is a youthfulness, a playfulness to it. It has an energy.” Of the local Gamays I tried, the Story of Soil release had the most exotic aromatics, a combination of flowery and foraging notes that shifted into tangy red fruit on the palate and a peppery linger. Opposite: Stephen Janes (left) with winemaker John Faulkner.

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Stolpman Vineyards.

In my conversations with Gamay winemakers, I get the sense that Gamay is a winemaker’s wine, something that first holds mystery and intrigue for them, which is now starting to spill over to their guests and wine club members. Gasca is fascinated by what she experiences as inherent contradictions in Gamay. “The nose doesn’t match the palate. The aromatics are extreme and wild and funky, and it’s hard for me to understand what’s going on. That interests me because I want to try and figure it out.”

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Janes imagines a parallel experience for the Pence winemakers. “Imagine you have been making Pinot Noir for 20 years. I’m sure there are variations vintage to vintage, but it’s still the same wines year after year. But now here’s Gamay, an interesting varietal that you get to experiment with. It’s new and exciting for them.” Pence has the most extensive Gamay program in the region. In addition to the Nouveau, they make a longer-aged Gamay and also what they call “PTG,” short for Passe-tout-grains,


Stolpman GDG (God Damn Gamay).

roughly translated as “throw it all in.” PTG is a blend of their estate Gamay and Pinot Noir, which has the crunchy acidity of Gamay upon release and takes on the silky textures and spice of Pinot as it ages. They will also be releasing a sparkling Gamay in 2019, after over three years of traditional-method production in barrel and bottle. Gamay isn’t only capturing the attention of Pinot Noir winemakers. Syrah powerhouse Stolpman Vineyards planted a half-acre of Gamay on their Ballard Canyon estate in 2016, with plans for two and a half more in 2019. They are releasing their first Gamay this April, the label adorned with the letters “G D G,” scratched out in vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano’s handwriting. Managing partner Pete Stolpman laughs when he tells the story behind the label. “We had planted small amounts of esoteric varietals — like Trousseau, for our Combe label partnership with Raj Parr—but my dad [Founding Partner Tom Stolpman] had been pushing us to plant Nebbiolo vines. He went out to see the new vineyard plantings, and he yells, “Did you plant god damm Gamay?!” And GDG was born. But we did

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surprise him that year with 500 Nebbiolo vines for his birthday. So everyone was happy. And he actually loves the Gamay.” The GDG Gamay I tasted was generous and supple, fitting of the warmer climate of Ballard Canyon. It is part of Stolpman’s So Fresh line, which includes three red wines that are made through a unique process called carbonic maceration. Carbonic maceration is a regular practice in Beaujolais and accounts for the pop of tart red fruit that sets Gamay apart. All the local Gamay winemakers I interviewed utilize some form of carbonic maceration. Instead of traditional fermentation, where the berries are destemmed and the fermentation is catalyzed by yeast, carbonic maceration involves closing whole clusters into a sealed vessel, where the initial fermentation of a week or so occurs in a carbon-dioxide-rich environment, and most of the berries ferment on the inside while remaining intact. This process draws out the fruitiness and freshness of the wine without extracting tannin. Mike Roth, owner and winemaker of LoFi wines, says that the carbonic process increases the drinkability and energy of his Gamay, grown in front of his house in Los Alamos, and allows for early release with minimal sulfur. When asked why he likes Gamay, he said “It’s delicious and accessible. There is nothing pretentious about it. The last thing we need is more pretentiousness in the wine business.” In 2018, his 225 cases of Gamay sold out in six months, and the new vintage is set to be released in April. Justin Willet of Tyler Winery in Lompoc also makes a Gamay under his Lieu-Dit label, wines inspired by the Loire Valley, the only other region in France where other substantial plantings of Gamay are found. Drake Whitcraft makes a Whitcraft Gamay sourced from Pence vines that has been known to sell out before release, the Instagram version of en primeur. At last count there are over 5,500 acres of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County; there are 12 acres of Gamay. Gamay at this point may be a cult wine, but I saw a glint in the eyes of the winemakers playing with it that makes me believe Gamay is at the frontier of new undertakings on our diverse hillsides. Jessica Gasca’s comments seem to describe both herself and a thirsty set of new wine adventurers: “People are tired of drinking the same things. There is only so much Pinot and Cab and Chardonnay that someone can drink. I feel like the true wine geeks of the world are discoverers. People that really geek out on wine want to discover something, and when you drink the same varietals over and over, how much more can you discover?”

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Adam McHugh is a certified specialist of wine and the author of two books. A former grief counselor in hospice, he now leads wine tours and is writing a new book about all of it, to be released in 2021. Opposite: Pete Stolpman adjacent to the area where they will be planting more Gamay.

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AND THE WINNER IS…

Edible Santa Barbara Wine Label Artwork Contest Can you judge a bottle of wine by its label? Perhaps not, but we asked four graphic design professionals to judge wine labels based on artistic quality and graphic design for our first annual Wine Label Artwork Contest. In order to showcase local artistic design, the contest was open only to wineries located in Santa Barbara County. There were so many excellent submissions and so much variety that we had to create some special categories. Kudos to these winning labels and many thanks to all who entered. There is no shortage of talent in Santa Barbara County on the outside (or inside) of the wine bottle.

1 Two Wolves – Cabernet Sauvignon

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he judges’ favorite for its beautiful artwork with a combination of watercolor and gold foil. The solid graphic design includes elegant typography and a fantastic use of negative space that ties together the wolves and the type. Winemaker Alecia Moore (otherwise known as the pop artist Pink) studied winemaking at Alan Hancock College and designed the label in collaboration with Michael McDermott.

pity, guilt, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, superiority and ego. The other wolf is joy, peace, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, benevolence, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion and faith. He tells his grandson that the same fight is going on inside of him too, and inside everyone. The grandson thinks about it for a minute and then asks his grandfather, “Which wolf will win?” The old Cherokee simply replies, “The one you feed.”

The name is inspired by the Cherokee story about a man telling his grandson that he has a fight going on inside of him. He says that it is a terrible fight and it is between two wolves. One wolf is anger, envy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, self-

The Two Wolves 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of several different blocks and different clones of Cab on their vineyard. Two Wolves Wine does not have a tasting room, but wines are available through their wine club. TwoWolvesWine.com

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Most MEANINGFUL Paradise Springs – Pink Ash

A 2 Longoria Wines – Blues Cuvée

A

close second was this vibrant and stunning image. Rick Longoria’s proprietary red wine blend pays tribute to the great American musical genre, the blues. The wine celebrates the musical and visual arts as well as the liquid art of wine, all in one package. Their proprietary red wine blend was first produced in 1993, and every other year they choose a different artist for the label of their Blues Cuvée. This year it is by local Lompoc photographer and artist Jeremy Ball, who photographed Rick’s guitar for this label. The label design was done by Kraftwerk Design of San Luis Obispo. Visit the gallery on their website to see the whole series of 12 Blues Cuvée labels. LongoriaWine.com

lthough the artwork on the label is compelling on its own, it’s not until you turn the bottle over and read the back label that you feel the full impact. Paradise Springs Winery owner Kirk Wiles, along with his friend artist/actor Billy Zane, came up with the idea of creating this specially labeled wine and donating one-third of the proceeds to rebuilding the community affected by the Thomas Fire and mudslides. On February 16, 2018, Billy Zane painted the Pink Ash Rosé label in collaboration with Paradise Springs at the legendary Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. While touring the burn and flood sites earlier that day, Billy collected ash and mud samples, which were then incorporated into the painting. One judge said the artwork was reminiscent of the maps that were shown of the Montecito canyons and debris flows, with the yellow splash representing the rising phoenix. The 2018 Rosé of Grenache is still available and the original artwork now hangs in the Paradise Springs tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara and can be viewed by all who visit. ParadiseSpringsOfSantaBarbara.com

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Honorable MENTIONS

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here were too many fantastic entries to list them all, but we can’t help giving a shout-out to two more. The distinctive graphic of the label for The Feminist Party 2017 GSM was a standout. And the Presqu’ille 2016 Pinot Noir, with its stylized aerial view of the vineyard combined with the legend, made this clever, good-looking label shout “local” and “terroir” to our judges.

Most TONGUE IN CHEEK Central Coast Group Project – Barrington Hall Wine Dinner Special Cuvée

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dgy. Raw. Laugh Out Loud. This had to place in the finals. Winemaker/proprietor Scott Sampler designed the label pulling inspiration from his time at UC Berkeley when he attended his first wine dinners at Barrington Hall, a student housing co-op renowned for its bacchanalian parties. The photo of the People’s Park riot of 1969 was taken by Robert Altman (the ’60s rock photographer, not the director). Scott credits his father, Marion Sampler, a graphic designer, commercial artist and fine artist in LA, as one of his biggest aesthetic influences. Several of his father’s collages have graced CCGP wine labels, and he has used friends’ artwork and his own on his projects. Scott adds this to the wine tasting notes: “As stated on the bottle, this wine tastes good with chicken, but it also tastes excellent with all manifestations of duck… so get out there & protest! & don’t forget to reward yourself after!!!” CCGPWines.com

Many Thanks to Our Judges… Steven Brown, Harriet Eckstein, Jennifer LeMay and Tracey Ryder.

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On the Marc

How Santa Barbara’s Vineyard Waste May Hold Keys to our Future Words and photos by John Cox

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hat if a winery could turn its waste into electricity? What if that same waste could be used

to treat diabetes, or turned into a natural food stabilizer? What if it could help with greenhouse gas emissions and provide a gluten-free alternative in baked goods? As farfetched as these concepts may sound, researchers across a variety of fields are exploring ways to keep the over 200 million pounds of grape skins, stems and seeds produced each year in California out of the landfills and instead turn them into valueadded products. Grape pomace, or grape marc, is the solid product that remains after the winemaking process. This mass of stems, seeds and skins was one of the first forms of agricultural waste and can be traced back to 4100 BC in Armenia, one of the oldest discoveries of wine production. Ever since the beginnings of winemaking people have pondered what to do with the remaining product. The first written mention of its use was a proclamation by Italian Emperor Maximilian II in 1569 that granted a musician the exclusive rights to produce grape-seed oil. Grape seeds are notoriously hard and difficult to press and it takes over one ton of grapes to yield just eight ounces of oil. Despite the abysmal yield, grape-seed oil is prized by chefs for its high smoke point,

essential for cooking at high heat, and by nutritionists who cite it as an excellent source of vitamin E and fatty acids. Wine production has evolved dramatically over the past few thousand years. Before there were reliable sources of clean water, alcohol wasn’t just for getting a good buzz, it was an important part of basic sanitation. If a feudal lord were to draw up water from his castle well there is a good chance it could be contaminated with bad bacteria. For this reason wine was an important beverage and grapes would be fermented two or even three times to extract all of the flavor and alcohol. The first run, typically sweet and alcoholic, would be reserved for the nobility; the subsequent batches of dry, lower-alcohol wine would be consumed by the working-class commoners. By 1600, Jesuits in Spain, Italy and Germany were distilling a high-proof spirit called grappa from the grape pomace leftover from winemaking. This technique has continued to the modern day, and the beverage remains popular in Italy and parts of South America. Over the years some California winemakers have even jumped at the opportunity to make grappa with their own pomace, but complex liquor regulations make it almost impossible for wineries to perform distillations on site. Luckily, with the help of Ian Cutler of Cutler’s Artisan Spirits, Riverbench Vineyard and Winery has been turning their Viognier grape pomace into grappa (or grape pomace brandy, if you want to respect Italy’s naming rights). Currently you can find the grappa at the Riverbench Tasting Room in Santa Maria and Far Western Tavern in Orcutt. Being neighbors in the Funk Zone likely helped build a relationship for the current grappa project, but Ian doesn’t have plans to increase his grappa

Opposite: Thousands of pounds of grape pomace—the skins, seeds and stems discarded during the winemaking process.

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The pomace is sorted at Fess Parker Winery in Los Olivos.

production. As he explains, “Traditionally, grappa stills have a larger door for loading and removing the pomace; my stills have a smaller opening, which makes grappa distillation a challenge. Also, the pomace must be fresh out of the presses and still wet to make a great distillation, so the logistics can be challenging.” Another likely use of grape pomace throughout history would have been as fodder for animals. The first mention of this is in Charles Cornevin’s book Des Résidus Industriels Dans L’alimentation du Bétail, published in 1892 in Paris. Or, if you prefer the far less sexy translation of the title, The Industrial Residues in Livestock Feed. Truly riveting stuff. Back then, feeding grape pomace to livestock would have been a

convenient solution for shortages in pasture and other feed rations. The pomace could be silaged until it was needed and then unearthed and used as an emergency feed ration for animals. It would be another hundred years before agricultural researchers would connect the practice of feeding grape pomace to cattle and a corresponding reduction in methane production. Over the past decade, ranchers and dairies in Australia, Europe and the United States have demonstrated that adding a percentage of grape pomace to cattle feed can reduce methane (one of the most potent greenhouse gasses) production up to 20%. They speculate that this occurs because of a chemical change in the cow’s gut biome that limits the methane that is Opposite: Inspecting the fermentation tanks.

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An overhead view of the fermentation tanks at Fess Parker Winery.

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produced by the animal and subsequently belched into the atmosphere. The impact of this methane reduction is amplified when you consider that grapes left to compost actually produce methane on their own. Currently animal nutritionists are studying the optimal ratio of pomace to other feeds in order to keep the benefits of methane reduction without slowing the cattle’s growth or milk production. Blair Fox, head winemaker at Fess Parker and owner of Blair Fox Cellars, explains that in the past, “grape pomace would have been recycled back into the vineyard. Today all of our grape pomace is put in silage and used to feed the herd of Wagyu cattle on the Fess Parker Ranch.”

Around the year 2000 food scientists in Croatia and Greece began to test “grape flour” as an ingredient to replace wheat flour in baking. In 2002, Eric Leber, a professor of chemistry at Heritage University in Toppenish, Washington, challenged his students to create value-added products using the pomace cast off by local vineyards. The class came up with over 50 applications for the pressed grapes, including infused oils and grape-seed varietal flours. In 2007 Eric launched his business, AprèsVin, which sells the infused oils and flours and uses the proceeds to fund science scholarships at Heritage University.

A few years later, in Napa Valley, Salute Santé! became the first California company to make grape-seed flour available to local chefs. Since then other companies have seen potential in Few people have spent as much time researching and grape flour and started their own production companies. At working with grape pomace as Valentin Humer, the founder one point Kendall-Jackson Winery was pushing for its own of Salute Santé!, a Napa Valley company that specializes in grape-flour production, but currently it seems as though the cold-pressed grape-seed oil and grape-seed flour. Valentin has only other commercial grape-flour dedicated the past 25 years to producers are located in Yakima perfecting the art of making grapeCurrently animal nutritionists are Valley, Oregon, and in upstate New seed oil. Although the oil has been studying the optimal ratio of pomace York. Although this flour has excellent produced for over 500 years, only to other feeds in order to keep the flavor and great potential in the recently has cold-pressed grape-seed kitchen, it has yet to make its way oil been available. Unlike traditional benefits of methane reduction without into the wider consumer spotlight and methods, cold pressing is a strictly slowing the cattle’s growth or milk remains a largely unknown ingredient. mechanical process that extracts the

production.

oil from the seeds without the use of heat or added ingredients. The temperature is important when making oil because high heat will damage the oil’s fatty acid profile and ultimately contribute to oxidation and less overall flavor in the final product.

Valentin grew up in Austria, a country known for its cold-pressed pumpkin-seed oil. A chef by trade, Valentin was aware that grape-seed oil was a staple in French kitchens and he wondered whether it would be possible to produce a higher-quality oil using traditional cold-pressing techniques. Unfortunately, the traditional presses used for pumpkin-seed and other cold-pressed oils were no match for the hard casings of the grape seeds. It would take him 15 years to develop a process for sorting the seeds and producing the over 8,000 pounds of force required to remove the oil from the seed. Salute Santé! produced its first batch of oil in 1994. The oil was a huge success and garnered critical acclaim from such iconic chefs as Jean-Louis Palladin, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud. In fact, it was Chef Palladin himself who encouraged Valentin to move his production to Napa Valley and utilize California-grown grape seeds. Years after their first conversation Valentin moved the operation to Napa Valley and finished his first West Coast oil pressing in 2010.

Over the past decade grape pomace has been getting quite a bit of attention as a dietary supplement. Much of this stems from the “French Paradox,” the anecdotal observation that the French enjoy a diet rich in saturated fats but experience comparatively low levels of heart disease. This has long been attributed to the French lifestyle embracing red wine as a part of daily life. It’s therefore not much of a stretch to look toward grape pomace as a source for antioxidants and phenolic compounds. In fact, grape pomace is a good source for both of these, as well as many other minerals, fibers and amino acids, including potassium, iron, copper, zinc, tannins and glutamic acid. When it comes to studying antioxidant levels in food one of the most common measurements is oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. Essentially, a sample of the test ingredient is put in a test tube with a free-radical-producing molecule and another molecule vulnerable to oxidation. After a set amount of time the researcher will measure how well the sample protected the molecules from oxidation in the presence of free radicals. (This is why grape pomace and other foods with high ORAC values are used to naturally preserve foods.) Foods that are considered high in antioxidants, such as blueberries, typically have an ORAC range of 5,000 to 10,000. The first

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time Valentin sent his grape-seed products to be tested the researcher called back and said there had been a problem and more samples would be required. When asked what the issues had been, the researcher explained that the grape-seed products had tested off the charts. A second test corroborated the first results: The product came in with an ORAC value of 70,000! It’s important to note that the USDA abandoned its database for ORAC food values, sighting an oversimplification in the way this data was being used in marketing and lack of hard scientific evidence about how the values translated to actual health benefits. While there are still no studies comprehensive enough to prove grape pomace as an effective treatment, there have been limited studies that demonstrate its potential in the treatment and prevention of both diabetes and cancer. A skeptic might point out how unlikely it would be, in a medical world driven by profit and “big pharma,” for a readily available item like grape seeds to ever get the scientific attention or funding it might deserve. Today, as the green energy revolution continues to explode, scientists are looking for untapped material to use in biofuels. At this point you probably won’t be surprised to hear that one of the more promising resources is grape pomace. The common way to convert grape pomace to biofuel is through microbial fermentation, converting glucose into ethanol or hydrogen. However, given the limited sugar left after the winemaking process, this isn’t very efficient. To put it in perspective, if the entire harvest of grape pomace was converted into ethanol it would produce just over 2.5 gigawatt hours of electricity, roughly enough to power Santa Barbara County for eight hours. Chemists are working on ways to convert cellulose from the stems and skins directly into ethanol, which if successful would make the pomace a much more compelling source for the biofuel industry.

Grappa made by Ian Cutler in partnership with Riverbench Winery.

alternative energies to make any predictions on these fields, but I am willing to speculate on grape seeds’ culinary future.

I think the adoption of grape-seed oil and flour may be slow, but is also inevitable. Why wouldn’t chefs and cooks turn to a Even the cosmetics industry is Luckily, with the help of Ian Cutler of delicious product that is produced from utilizing grape seeds. A local Santa Cutler’s Artisan Spirits, Riverbench one of California’s greatest agricultural Barbara business, The Grapeseed Vineyard and Winery has been turning resources? When a product is as Company, was a pioneer of this their Viognier grape pomace into delicious and adaptable as grape-seed practice back in 2004, “Creating the oil and comes from just up the road, it first vinotherapy line upcycled from grappa (or grape pomace brandy). seems like an obvious front-runner in byproducts of the California wine any chef ’s pantry. industry.” You can find their full range of products at The Scent Bar in the Funk Zone or at their As micro regional cooking continues to gain in popularity shop and warehouse in Carpinteria. I am confident more chefs and cooks will jump on the grapeIt’s not clear what the future has in store for grape pomace. Will it become the next darling of modern science and medicine, or will it stay confined to dumpsters and compost bins? I don’t know enough about medicine, nutrition or

seed bandwagon. Perhaps one day demand will even be great enough that our local wineries will start having their own grape pomace pressed and milled into estate oils and flours to be sold throughout the local community.

Opposite: Ian Cutler in front of his copper still at Cutler’s Artisan Spirits in the Funk Zone, Santa Barbara.

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A Chef’s Guide to Cooking with Grape Pomace

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very autumn the hills above Santa Barbara hum

any material too coarse to pass through the sieve back

with farm trucks hauling large totes piled high

into the blender to grind again. (This is what I would call a

with grapes and forklifts maneuvering bins and

“whole-grain pomace flour” and will have much different

vats around production-room floors. Over the course

characteristics than the commercially available flour that

of a few weeks millions of pounds of fruit go from ripe

has had the oil and skins removed.)

clusters of grapes dangling off their trellises to fermenting vats of foaming juice. During this time thousands of pounds of grape pomace—the skins, seeds and stems

You can also order grape pomace flour from Salute Sante! (GrapeseedOil.com) and AprèsVin (ApresVin.com).

discarded during the winemaking process—are dumped

Having used both the commercial and home-produced

or composted. The adventurous cook with a gregarious

grape pomace flour I don’t have a clear favorite, but

personality or a friend in the industry can easily acquire

would say that the commercial product has a slightly

enough of this pomace to satisfy their culinary creativity for the coming year. Just as there are dozens of varieties of wine, so are there dozens of varieties of grape pomace. Straight from the presses you can get the white wine varietals while later on you can acquire the fermented pomace from red wine production. Each variety and style has its own unique character and not enough research has been done to help guide you into the right decision. In reality, if you are going to try and acquire fresh grape pomace you will largely be at the mercy of the winemaker kind enough to

more neutral flavor profile and therefore might be more versatile in terms of substituting in recipes where a gluten-free option is desired but flavor is not. My personal preference is for the more rustic homemade flour because of its fruity quality and added richness from the oils.) Grape pomace flour is naturally gluten free, but for me that’s not its primary appeal. I love the flavor grape flour brings to recipes: a savory, slightly tannic and mildly acidic profile with notes of wine. Taking a simple recipe for lavash and replacing 20% of the flour with red

share with you.

wine flour, results in a dark dough, almost maroon, that

When I look for grape pomace I look for batches that

leaves your mouth watering for more. It’s more than just

have been hand sorted, with the least amount of stems possible. I have had great success with Cab Franc and am optimistic about a batch of Malbec I have in the works this year. The trick to processing grape pomace into flour is to get it early and allow it to dry out quickly. When making large batches I lay out the content of an entire

bakes off into delicate sheets with a complex flavor that being delicious, it’s something in the way the tannins, glutamates and acid actually stimulate your palate. In recipes that call for almond flour or other naturally gluten-free flours, grape flour is an easy substitution— think grape-flour macaroons with dark chocolate

press on a large, clean tarp and let it dry in the sun, raking

ganache!

occasionally until all of the skins are fully dry. For home

The use for grape pomace goes well beyond the bakery.

use you can simply fill a grocery bag with fresh pomace

At The Bear and Star, Chef Trent Shank is using Cab

and then dry it out on a sheet pan using the pilot light on

Franc grape flour as a base for a molé-style sauce that is

your oven or the lowest setting. The drying step is critical

spooned over mushroom tamales. He also occasionally

because, left unattended, the pomace has a tendency to

uses the ground pomace to age meat, relying on

mold. Once dried the pomace can be placed in sealed

its alleged antioxidant and microbial properties to

zip-top bags and stored until ready to use.

discourage the growth of undesirable molds and

Grinding the pomace into flour is simple, but you will

discoloration and its glutamates to enhance the natural

need either a coffee grinder or high-powered blender such as a Vitamix. Sort through the grape pomace to

flavor of the meat. You can also use grape flour in your mix when you are dredging foods for pan frying.

remove any rogue stems or other unwanted material,

Grape pomace flour is truly an untapped culinary

then transfer the dried skins and seeds into the blender

ingredient and its applications are only limited by a

and pulse until the pomace transforms into a powder. Run

chef’s imagination.

this powder through a fine sieve or chinoise and transfer

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Grape Pomace Molé Sauce served on a handmade tortilla with assorted vegetables.

Recipes Grape Pomace Molé Sauce By Chef Trenton Shank of The Bear and Star, Los Olivos This is a versatile sauce that can be used in a number of dishes. Here at The Bear and Star we serve it over roasted sunchokes and cauliflower. It also makes a perfect sauce for duck, pork or chicken. For non-vegetarian applications we use a roasted chicken stock in place of water and a spoonful of smoked pork or beef fat in place of olive oil. 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small yellow onion, peeled and chopped roughly 1 red bell pepper, stem and seeds removed and pepper meat chopped 3 garlic cloves

1

⁄ 2 cup sunflower seeds

1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 cups red wine grape pomace flour (whole ground grape flour) 1 teaspoon black pepper Kosher salt, to taste Red wine vinegar (optional)

In a saucepan over medium heat, add the olive oil, yellow onion and red bell pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions become translucent and aromatic. Add the garlic to the saucepan and cook until aromatic, but not brown. Add the red wine, water, apricots and cranberries.

5 guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed

In a dry saucepan over medium heat, toast the almonds, sunflower seeds, cumin, guajillo chiles, coriander and pomace flour. Continue cooking, shaking and stirring constantly, until toasted and aromatic.

1 quart water

Add toasted nuts, seeds and pomace flour to saucepan.

2 cups Pinot Noir wine

1

⁄ 2 cup dried apricots

1

⁄ 2 cup dried cranberries

1 cup sliced almonds

Transfer mixture to a blender and carefully blend until very smooth. Pass purée through a fine strainer and then season with salt and pepper to taste. As this point you may also stir in a touch of whole butter or splash of red wine vinegar to adjust the flavor profile and texture. EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 65


Grape Pomace Cake served with red wine butter cream, poached pears and candied walnuts.

Grape Pomace Crackers

Grape Pomace Cake

By Chef Taylor Eakins of The Bear and Star, Los Olivos

By Chef Taylor Eakins of The Bear and Star, Los Olivos

Once cooled, these crackers can be stored for several days in an airtight container.

At The Bear and Star we serve these cakes with a layer of red wine butter cream, poached pears and candied walnuts.

11 ⁄ 2 cups flour

1 cup almond flour

1

⁄ 4 cup grape pomace flour (whole pomace flour)

1 cup grape pomace flour (whole pomace flour)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1

⁄ 2 cup + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1

⁄ 4 teaspoon kosher salt

1

⁄ 3 cup olive oil

2 cups granulated sugar

1

⁄ 2 cup water

8 egg whites, whipped to soft peaks

2 tablespoons Maldon salt

5 ounces melted unsalted butter

Combine the flour, grape pomace, salt and baking powder. Mix to incorporate. Add up to 1 ⁄ 3 cup olive oil and water and mix until the ingredients form a wet dough. Rest the dough for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 325°.

Preheat oven to 350°.

Fold in the egg whites to form batter. Slowly add melted butter to batter, stirring to keep the batter from separating.

Cut the dough into 4 pieces. Place each piece between two pieces of parchment paper. Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough until it is a sheet ¼ inch thick. Remove the top piece of parchment and season the rolled out dough with a drizzle of olive oil and Maldon salt. Bake on a sheet tray at 350° until the edges begin to slightly brown, approximately 15 minutes.

66 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

Combine the almond flour, grape pomace flour, all-purpose flour, salt and sugar until incorporated.

Prepare a 9–inch cake pan or 12 muffin tins by lining with baking paper or oiling. Pour batter into the prepared pans. Bake at 325° for 15–20 minutes, or until top of the cake springs back to the touch. John Cox is the chef partner at The Bear and Star in Los Olivos. When he isn’t in the kitchen, or at home on his boat in Santa Barbara, he loves traveling the world in search of new culinary experiences.


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PASCALE BEALE

68 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019


Terroir

A Culinary Journey Revisited by Pascale Beale

T

wenty years ago, not long after I moved to Santa Barbara, I toyed with—well, actually seriously contemplated—wading into the turbulent waters of restaurant ownership. I blithely envisioned a chic bistro, complete with Chez Panisse-esque daily changing menus. Yet the more I analyzed this potential venture and the enormous commitment it would take, the more I realized, sadly, that it was not to be. So, if not a restaurant, I chose to do what was, for me, the next best thing: Teaching people how to cook.

All this from seasonal explorations of farmers markets across Europe and those I found here in California. Nourished by these forays, I discovered foods I had never tasted before: daikon and watermelon radishes, Thai basil and fresh za’atar, Chinese long beans and sprouted black-eyed peas, microgreens and blistered almonds, Jerusalem artichokes and Romanesco broccoli, tomatillos and jicama, Meyer lemons, pluots and apriums to name but a few; vegetables, fruit, herbs and spices that reflected the myriad communities and migrant farmers who nurtured and cultivated the land around us. Ideally, as though friends were coming over to dinner we would all cook together and the The farmers I have come to menu would change with every know locally come from Ojai, Los I had a distinct sensation that the class. Little did I know what this Alamos and the Central Valley and ripple effect of my culinary migrations would lead to! Now, after two as far away as Mexico, Laos and Thailand. Collectively they farm the decades, hundreds and hundreds had come full circle, cooking of events and classes, and eight Provencale-Mediterranean food, albeit rich soil in fields and valleys dotted throughout this county, and plant cookbooks later, I can see, in the with a new West Coast twist. their heritage into the ground. From catalogs of menus in my office, the their roots, I now understand, the evolution of my cooking, my tastes food I cook has literally changed to encompass my new terroir. I and what has become my food. What struck me the most as I realized, with a deep sense of gratitude, that I had put down my leafed through the pages was the very real sense of terroir that the own roots, tapping into their extraordinary bounty. recipes reflected. If Brillat-Savarin, now said to me “Tell me what you eat From the French word terre (earth), terroir meaning “from the and I will tell you what you are,” he would find a Frenchearth” or “a sense of place” also imbues that which grows, and is Mediterranean-Californian hybrid, delighting in the crosscultivated in a particular region with distinctive characteristics. cultural mélange of produce that I pick up at the market every Like a wave rippling out from its epicenter, I saw that my culinary week. Over time this food has changed me and the way I cook. repertoire had expanded from the lush green fields of Normandie and the planes of Provence to all the shores of the Mediterranean, The very first class I taught, in the spring of 1999, was classic French cuisine: a combination of Provencal staples and dishes I lapping up the scented and earthy foods of the Maghreb and the grew up with. My French bistro ideal channeled into the food fragrant, perfumed palettes of Levantine and Ottoman cooking, I showed people how to make. Individual onion tarts with a and to gastronomic forays into the spice-infused foods of the Indian subcontinent and herb-filled delicacies of Southeast Asia. fresh garden herb salad, followed by stuffed filet mignons with Opposite: Arugula, Radish, Date and Pistachio Salad.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 69


Roquefort and rosemary, served with braised endives, and for dessert an apricot clafoutis. I felt at home in this cuisine and transplanted it to the American Riviera. In my first decade of teaching nearly every menu included beef or lamb or pork, salmon or trout or seabass, centered around regional French and Italian cooking, with the odd excursion into Spanish delicacies. In the spring of 2009, I penned a story for the inaugural issue of Edible Santa Barbara about a different culinary journey, one taken through a spring garden, trumpeting the delights of (and providing the recipes for) asparagus, both green and white, fava beans and pastoral lamb. Rereading this, a decade later, I can see that this was the turning point, the start of a more vegetable-based cooking. I rarely taught a vegetarian class before then. Oh, how that has changed! Now, more often than not, the meals I prepare, teach and write about are often plant based, celebrating and reveling in the colorful, succulent array of produce found in our neardaily farmers markets. Much to my chagrin I have tried and failed to grow vegetables. I can just about manage herbs. Every time I see farmers picking crops as I crisscross the countryside, I send out a silent prayer of gratitude for their skills and look forward to discovering new varieties of vegetables and fruit as I walk through their farm stands. They have nourished my imagination and, in turn, my recipes. Who knew, for example, that cauliflower, tomatoes, beets, radishes and carrots come in a palette of rainbow-like colors with nuances in texture and flavor? I never saw them when I first came to California, now they are showcased in local restaurants up and down the coast, and splashed across food media. Lest I thought this was California foodie phenomenon, I was pleasantly surprised on my last trip back to Provence to find some of the very same vegetables being grown there. Food trends it seems are quickly transcontinental. I decided to make what my French cousin referred to as “Californian food” showcasing these fruits and vegetables. I had a distinct sensation that the ripple effect of my culinary migrations had come full circle, cooking ProvencaleMediterranean food, albeit with a new West Coast twist. I made them a donut peach salad with feta and lemon basil, slowroasted citrus salmon with heirloom tomatoes and a salad of shaved asparagus with endives. The ingredients were familiar to them, the combinations new. Some things never change, though. My mantra has always been eat with the seasons and eat local. That spring, in markets on both sides of the Atlantic, I found apricots, the one fruit that is for me the harbinger of the season. As soon as I saw them, I made, as I do every year, an apricot clafoutis. I await the first harvest this year with great anticipation, although—who knows?—perhaps I’ll make a cherry-apricot-pluot version, a new twist on a classic. 70 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

Recipes Arugula, Radish, Date and Pistachio Salad I had a little radish frenzy at the market recently. I found some long, tapered radishes and was captivated by their shapes and hues. One variety was called Cincinnati Red; another, pale cream in color, was a type of Japanese radish, akin to a thin daikon. There were also some stunning watermelon radishes and I piled some of them into my basket as well. Once home, I chopped and sliced and peeled them every which way, a delightful confetti of radish curls and “petals” falling on my kitchen table. The “roses” came about as I played with my food! They were so pretty that I had to make a salad with them, showcasing all their peppery delights. Makes 8 servings

FOR THE SALAD 8 ounces baby arugula 4–5 long radishes (sometimes known as Japanese radishes, they can be white or red), peeled lengthwise to create long, very thin strips 3 medium-sized watermelon radishes, peeled and then very thinly sliced, on a mandoline if possible, creating thin “petallike” slices 8 Medjool dates, cut into small pieces 1

⁄ 3 cup pistachios

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE 1

⁄ 4 cup basil olive oil

11 ⁄ 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (flavored with pomegranates if possible, otherwise a good aged balsamic will work too) Pinch of coarse sea salt 4–5 grinds black pepper

Place the arugula in a medium-sized salad bowl. Roll up half the radish strips so they resemble rose buds that are just opening and nestle them into the arugula. Roll up the remaining radish strips in the same fashion and then wrap them with overlapping slices of watermelon radish “petals.” Nestle each radish “rose” in the arugula. (Nestling them helps them stay together.) Sprinkle the date pieces and pistachios over the salad. In a small bowl whisk together all the vinaigrette ingredients to form an emulsion. When ready to serve, pour the vinaigrette over the salad and serve, taking care to keep the “roses” whole.


PASCALE BEALE

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 71


Stone Fruit Clafoutis If there is one fruit that heralds spring for me, it’s an apricot. This is the first dish I make when I spy these beautiful golden orbs at the market. This dessert is like a rich, creamy pudding. If there’s any left it’s fantastic, served alongside a cup of coffee, for breakfast too! Note: It’s also scrumptious made with cherries or a mix of any stone fruit. Makes 8 servings 3 cups milk 8 ounces sugar (11 ⁄ 8 cups) 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 3 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour ( 2 ⁄ 3 cup) 5 large eggs 1 pound cherries or nectarines, cherries pitted and/or nectarines quartered and pitted 1 pound apricots, quartered and pitted Zest of 2 lemons

Preheat oven to 400°. In a medium-sized saucepan heat the milk with the sugar and the vanilla bean or vanilla extract. Stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Remove from the heat. Place the flour in a large bowl and then vigorously whisk in 1 egg at a time. You should have a completely smooth batter. Slowly whisk in the warm milk mixture. The batter will be very liquid and should be free of any lumps.

PASCALE BEALE

Place the fruit and lemon zest in a shallow (1-inch-deep) 12-inch round or oval baking dish. Place the fruit-filled dishes on a baking sheet. Pour the batter over the fruit.

72 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019


Spring Pea, Fava Bean and Roasted Tomato Tart When I reread the recipes in my article for the Spring 2009 issue of Edible Santa Barbara it included one for a spring pea and fava bean salad to be served alongside a rack of lamb. I am surprised to say that I cannot remember the last time I cooked lamb. Now, contemplating a spring dinner, I’d long for a tart such as this one for the main course with its riot of spring peas that burst in your mouth. Makes 8 servings

FOR THE TART SHELL 9 ounces (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 51 ⁄ 2 ounces (11 tablespoons) butter, chilled, cut into small pieces Zest of 1 lemon 1 large egg Pinch of salt

1

⁄ 2 pint cherry tomatoes

Olive oil Salt Black pepper 2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence 2 shallots, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 1

⁄ 2 pound snap peas—cut on a bias

1 pound fava beans 1

⁄ 2 pound shelled English peas

1

⁄ 2 cup Greek yogurt

2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 1

⁄ 2 cup ricotta

Pinch of salt 4–5 grinds pepper 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives 1

⁄ 2 cup small mint leaves

Preheat oven to 400° and butter a 12-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Place all the ingredients in the bowl of the food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Use longer pulses until the dough forms a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes. (You can make the dough ahead of time and remove it from the fridge approximately 20 minutes before using.) On a lightly floured board, roll out the dough to a 14-inch circle. Line the tart pan with the dough. Trim the edges with a sharp knife and then prick the dough with a fork. Cut a hole in the center by running a sharp knife around the edge of a water glass. Remove the circle of dough and reserve for another use. (Note: I love the touch of whimsy, but you can just as easily make the tart without the cutout.

MEDIA 27

FOR THE FILLING

Line the dough with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake the tart shell for 15 minutes, until it is a pale golden color, then carefully remove the parchment paper and weights. Return the tart to the oven and bake 5–10 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the tart shell from the oven and let cool on a wire rack. Place the cherry tomatoes in a small oven-proof dish. Drizzle with olive oil, add a pinch of salt, a little pepper and the Herbes de Provence. Shake the dish back and forth a few times to coat the tomatoes. Place in the same oven as the tart dough. Roast for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave in the dish. Shell the fava beans. Slit open the pods and remove the beans. Boil them in heavily salted water for 1 minute. Drain and immediately plunge the beans into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and set the bright color. Tear the tough skin at the rounded end and squeeze out the bean. Heat a little oil in a medium skillet. Sauté the shallots for 3–4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the snap peas, a pinch of salt and some pepper and cook for 2–3 minutes. Finally, add the fava beans and English peas and cook 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. In a small bowl, using a fork, mix together the yogurt, feta, ricotta, pinch of salt, black pepper and chives. Place the cooked tart shell on a platter. Spread the yogurt-feta mixture over the tart base. Layer the pea and fava bean mixture on top. Dot with the tomatoes and tuck the mint leaves in amongst the peas. Serve warm. Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 73


WSI PNRTI E NRG EE D I B LLEE EEVVEENN TS TS S U N D AY

S AT U R D AY

APRIL

APRIL

APRIL

Wine and Design

Seasonal Lunch Class

Longoria Winemaker Dinner at the Gathering Table

S AT U R D AY

13

14

10:30am–2pm

21

A PR IL

1–3pm at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria Join Riverbench in the vineyards for a painting class. Includes canvas and a glass of wine. $45; more info and tickets at Riverbench.com.

Join cookbook author and chef Pascale Beale for a Sunday roast lunch around the Chef’s Table. Featuring spring greens and pickled strawberry salad, balsamic-glazed roasted chicken and mouth-puckering lemon squares. $90; PascalesKitchen. com/EventsAndClasses.

6:30pm at the Gathering Table, Ballard Join Rick and Diana Longoria at this highly anticipated annual dinner. Chef Budi Kazali will prepare a delicious five-course meal, expertly paired with Longoria wines. Reservations are limited. For more information and reservations, please contact The Ballard Inn at 805 688-7770 or 800 638-2466.

S AT U R D AY

S AT U R D AY

S U N D AY

M O N D AY

APRIL

APRIL

APRIL

APRIL

Annual Easter Egg Hunt

Clevr Blends Drink Sampling

Easter Brunch

Bread Making Workshop

20

11am–4pm at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria 2,000 eggs are hidden in the garden surrounding the vineyard tasting room and are filled with candy for the kids and some special prizes for parents. Bring your little ones and take in the festivities while sipping on your favorite Riverbench wines. $5 for nonmembers; more info and tickets at Riverbench.com.

20

10am–noon at Yoga Soup Taste Clevr Blends’ newly launched plant-based lattes powered by probiotics, adaptogens and superfoods. Designed for vibrant, all-day energy and handmade right here in Santa Barbara using organic, clean ingredients. Free; ClevrBlends.com.

21

10am–3pm at Valle Eatery & Bar, Lompoc Featuring your favorite brunch specialties and a bottomless mimosa bar. $22–$42; 805 430-7788 to make a reservation. Purchase by April 12 and be entered for a chance to win a one-night stay at the hotel.

22

9am–1pm and 4:30–7pm Join cookbook author and chef Pascale Beale for a one-day, hands-on bread making workshop featuring Tartine Bakery–style sourdough boule and filled loaves. Includes lunch, copy of Tartine Bread Book by Chad Robertson, Lodge Cast-Iron Combo Cooker, starter and freshly baked bread. $215; PascalesKitchen.com/EventsAndClasses.

T U E S D AY

W E D N E S D AY

S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY

S AT U R D AY

APRIL

APRIL

24

APRIL

26–28

APRIL

Vineyard Painting

Santa Barbara Earth Day Festival

Deconstructing Rhone Blends

23

Michael Pollan: How to Change Your Mind

F7:30pm E BatRGranada U ATheatre RY

Michael Pollan speaks about his latest book, How to Change Your Mind: What the New Science of Psychedelics Teaches Us About Consciousness, Dying, Addiction, Depression, and Transcendence. Tickets are available at ArtsAndLectures.ucsb.edu.

6pm at The Painted Cabernet, Santa Barbara Unleash your inner artist, sip by sip. Bring a friend, date or group to paint a beautiful canvas with step-by-step instructions as you sip along. $40 includes glass of wine. To sign up for this or any class, visit PaintedCabernet.com and use coupon code ‘Edible’.

Visit the Edible Santa Barbara booth in the Homegrown Roots section. Two full days of live music performances, speakers, local food, wine and beer and family programming. Free. For more info visit SBEarthDay.org

10am–1pm at Zaca Mesa Winery Guests will have the rare opportunity to learn their winemaker’s secrets and gain insight into the art of blending two Rhône blends: Z Cuvée and Z Three. Blending is a representation of a winemaker’s style and allows for true creative expression. Includes catered lunch. $60–$75; ZacaMesa.com.

F R I D AY

S AT U R D AY

MAY

MAY

MAY

Santa Barbara Vintners Festival Weekend

Flying Goat Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Santa Barbara Vintners Festival

6–9:30pm at La Purisima Mission, Lompoc

1–4pm at Rancho Sisquoc Winery, Santa Maria

Join us for an extraordinary evening hosted by Winemaker Norm Yost, Restaurateur Mitchell Sjerven and Chef Greg Murphy of Bouchon Santa Barbara. Limited to 40 guests; $150–$175+; FlyingGoatCellars.com.

Experience the iconic Rancho Sisquoc Winery and enjoy new-release wines from over 70 participating member wineries, tastings from more than 30 food purveyors, live music, wine and culinary demonstrations. More info and tickets at SBVintnersWeekend.com.

T H U R S D AY – M O N D AY

2–6 MAY

Friday 5–9pm; Saturday 11am–8pm; Sunday 11am–6pm at Alameda Park, Santa Barbara

27

Five days of wine, food and discovery in Santa Barbara wine country. Attend winery events: winemaker dinners, library tastings, new wine releases and barrel tastings. Visit 12 tasting rooms with your Vintners Visa weekend pass. More info and tickets at SBVintnersWeekend.com.

74 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

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4


For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com S AT U R D AY

S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY

S U N D AY

MAY

MAY

MAY

Open House

Vineyard Walk with the Winemaker

4

Star Party

4–5

5

8pm at Martian Vineyard, Los Alamos

11am–5:30pm at Babcock Winery & Vineyards

Join Martian for a night of stargazing. Ricky Hart of UCLA Space Physics will bring telescopes to view the Aquarids Meteor Shower and Martian will provide snacks and wine. More info and tickets at MartianVineyard.com/events.

Visit the tasting room for ’70s & ’80s tunes, an extensive display of magically curated vintage items and gifts, and full lineup of stunning wines. Gather with friends and enjoy a game of pool, or kick back in one of their many seating areas inside or out. Lunch by Scratch Kitchen; BabcockWinery.com.

S AT U R D AY

S U N D AY

S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY

S U N D AY

MAY

MAY

12

MAY

18–19

MAY

Roar & Pour Wine Festival

Wildflower Bucket Painting

5–8pm at Santa Barbara Zoo Enjoy tastings from more than 30 local wineries on this spring evening when the animals stay out late and the entire zoo is open for guests to sip and stroll. Tasty treats from food trucks available for an additional cost. VIP ticket offers tasting of reserve wines and pairing of wine with appetizers. For ages 21 and over only. Visit SBZoo.org or call 805 962-5339 for more information.

1pm at The Painted Cabernet, Santa Barbara

Los Alamos Theatre Group Presents 2 in One

“The Oyster Tin” Oyster Pop-up

Preview of coming attractions of a radio/ stage drama featuring the return of Milo Sampson in We Only Kill Each Other, along with The Word Gypsy, a play in one act. Proceeds benefit the Summer in the Park program. $30. Order tickets at Squareup.com/store/LATG.

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria

M AY

11

Unleash your inner artist, sip by sip. Bring a friend, date or group to paint a beautiful canvas with step-by-step instructions as you sip along. $50 includes glass of wine. To sign up for this or any class, visit PaintedCabernet.com and use coupon code ‘Edible’.

JUNE

15

Cooking Class with Maryvonne Noon at Martian Vineyard, Los Alamos Join Maryvonne for another fun-filled afternoon of cooking, eating, wine and camaraderie. Crepes, pasta, pastry—she can do it all! More info and tickets at MartianVineyard.com/events.

Embark on a culinary pairing of Riverbench sparkling wines and oysters while you take in the 360° views of the vineyard. $15; includes six raw or BBQ oysters; wine sold separately; more info and tickets at Riverbench.com.

S AT U R D AY

W E D N E S D AY

JUNE

JUNE

JUNE

Los Olivos Jazz and Olive Festival

Saturday Fisherman’s Market

Santa Barbara East Beach Painting

1–4pm at Lavinia Campbell Park, Los Olivos

A handful of fishermen can be found on the City Pier (opposite Brophy’s) every Saturday selling crab, rockfish, lingcod, black cod, halibut, urchin, abalone (sustainably farmed) and other catch-ofthe-day items—with unbeatable prices and unsurpassed freshness and quality. CFSB.info/Sat.

Spend a Saturday afternoon in the beautiful Santa Ynez Valley, tasting wine from 30 local wineries, listening to world-class professional jazz musicians and sampling 30 different olive-themed dishes prepared by local chefs. $60; JazzAndOliveFestival.org S AT U R D AY

26

S AT U R D AY

8

JU N E

10:30am–1:30pm at Buttonwood Farm Winery Explore the beautiful, sustainably farmed vineyard and check out the burgeoning growth of the 2019 vintage while you learn about the soil, viticulture and challenges of growing wine here. End up at the vineyard pond with food and drink under the shade of the cottonwood trees. Tickets at ButtonwoodWinery.com.

8

12

6–11am at the Santa Barbara Harbor

6pm at The Painted Cabernet, Santa Barbara Unleash your inner artist, sip by sip. Bring a friend, date or group to paint a beautiful canvas with step-by-step instructions as you sip along. $40 includes glass of wine. To sign up for this or any class, visit PaintedCabernet.com and use coupon code ‘Edible’.

S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY

S AT U R D AY

JUNE

JUNE

Foxen Canyon Wine Trail

Santa Barbara Wine + Food Festival

10am–4pm on the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail

2–5pm at the Santa Barbara Natural History Museum

Spend the weekend exploring 15 wineries and tastings rooms along the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail for $45. Snacks, live music, library wines, food trucks, swag bags and much more included. Tickets and more info at My805Tix.com/Events/ SummerSipping2019.

Swirl, sip and savor wines from premier Central Coast wineries complemented with sweet and savory delectable delights on the beautiful grounds of the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History. For details and to purchase tickets visit SBNature.org/winefestival.

22–23

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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 75


edible

SA NTA BARBA R A COUNT Y

E AT DRINK LOC AL GUIDE Santa Barbara County has its own unique food tradition and lifestyle. We’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants, bakeries, food producers and specialty retail shops that contribute to the distinctively Santa Barbara experience. From Ballard to Carpinteria, and from catering to wine tasting, our Guide will help you find what you are looking for and more.

Farms & Ranches Jimenez Family Farm 805 688-0597 JimenezFamilyFarm.com Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small-batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farm-raised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry.

Winfield Farm 805 686-9312 WinfieldFarm.us Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at http://www.lardermeatco.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@ WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).

Food & Restaurants Backyard Bowls 5668 Calle Real, Goleta, 805 770-2730 3849 State St. Santa Barbara, 805 569-0011 331 Motor Way, Santa Barbara, 805 845-5379 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.

Ballard Inn & Gathering Table 2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard, 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com Elegant accommodations, attentive staff and awardwinning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Barbara Wine Country.

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Barbareño 205 W. Canon Perdido St., Santa Barbara 805 963-9591 Barbareno.com Offering an approachable take on the fine-dining experience, Barbareño highlights the traditions and specialties of the Central Coast through creative story-driven dishes and ingredients from local farmers. Sit in the main dining room and enjoy the enticing atmosphere of an open kitchen, or outside on the lush patio alongside the Santa Maria grill. Dinner nightly 5–9:30pm; closed Tue.

Bettina Montecito Country Mart 1014 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 770-2383 BettinaPizzeria.com A cozy neighborhood restaurant serving naturally leavened Neapolitan-style pizza made with seasonal California ingredients. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just grabbing a spritz at the bar, Bettina is committed to simplicity, community and hospitality that makes guests feel at home. Open Fri through Sun for lunch and nightly 5–10pm.

Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com Making bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive”—signature Pain au Levain, awardwinning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Thu–Mon 7am–6pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.

Bossie’s Kitchen 901 N. Milpas St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-1700 BossiesKitchen.com Located in the historic D’Alfonso building with the cow on top, Bossie’s Kitchen offers seasonal farmers market dishes in a casual counter service setting. Chef-wife team Christina Olufson and Lauren Herman’s menu

features garlic and herb-roasted chicken, sandwiches on house-made bread, soups, salads, sides and nightly specials. Open for lunch Tue–Fri 11:30am–3pm, dinner Tue–Sun 5pm–close, brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2:30pm, happy hour weekdays 4:30–6pm. Closed Mon.

Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “asfresh-and-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.

Bragg Live Foods Bragg.com Founded in 1912 by Dr. Paul C. Bragg and now run by his daughter Dr. Patricia Bragg in Goleta, Bragg Live Food Products offers organic and natural health products and publishes self-health books. Available locally at Fairview Gardens’ Farm Stand, Lassen’s, Gladden and Sons, Tri-County Produce, Whole Foods Market, Lazy Acres and in the health section of your neighborhood grocery store.

Bree’Osh 1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-2500 Breeosh.com Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, high-quality ingredients. Open daily 7am–2pm. Serving breakfast and lunch daily 7am–2pm

Ca’ Dario 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 884-9419 38 W. Victoria St. (inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 884-9419 250 Storke Rd., Goleta, 805 884-9419 CaDario.net Chef Dario Furlati’s flagship eatery offers a fine Italian dining experience featuring authentic recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Handmade pastas, local seafood, weekly farmers market specials and an


extensive Italian wine list. Located in the heart of the downtown Arts District. Serving lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Ca'Dario Pizzeria in the Public Market offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. Open daily 11am–9pm. Ca' Dario Cucina Italiana in Goleta is open Mon–Sat 11am-9pm.

Chocolate Maya 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara, 805 965-5956 ChocolateMaya.com Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Mesocacao including some small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and some exotic findings from their travels overseas.

Corazón Cocina 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0282 CorazonCocinaSB.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, offering homemade, local, unique and fresh cocina Mexicana. Join Chef Ramón Velazquez for fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas. Open Mon–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat–Sun 10am–9pm.

The Food Liaison 1033 Casitas Pass Rd., Carpinteria, 805 200-3030 TheFoodLiaison.com Catering. Counter. Classes. Utilizing many locally grown organic ingredients, enjoy daily rotating entrées and soups, seasonal menu and gourmet salad bar. Corporate and event catering since 2013. Sign up for cooking classes online. Lunch counter Mon–Fri 11am–3pm.

Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and family-operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm; closed Tue.

Global Gardens 2450 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 805 686-4111 GlobalGardensOnline.com Santa Barbara’s first olive oil producer is celebrating 20 years of organic farming. Become an expert at their family-friendly tasting bar. More than 40 food products, picnic garden, group events. Join the Olive Oil Club and save 20% for the lifetime of your membership. Open Thu–Mon 10am–5pm; closed Tue and Wed.

Hilton Garden Inn and Valle Eatery & Bar 1201 North H. St., Lompoc, 805 735-1880 HGILompoc.com Offering 156 contemporary and spacious rooms, large and elegantly appointed suites, premium fiber Internet access, event space and full service restaurant just steps away from Santa Barbara Wine Country. Local Executive Chef, Conrad Gonzales, combines big city flavors with seasonal local produce and acclaimed wines from local vintners. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Offering a full service bar featuring Santa Barbara County wine and beer from California.

The Hitching Post II

The Painted Cabernet

406 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton, 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com

1229 State St., Santa Barbara 805 963-9979 PaintedCabernet.com

A favorite of locals and visitors since 1986. Serving wood-grilled fare, prepared in the regional barbecue tradition, along with their highly regarded Hitching Post Wines. Casual and relaxed setting.

Il Fustino 3401 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-3521 38 W. Victoria St. (located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 845-4995 ilFustino.com Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars.

Lazy Acres 302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara, 805 564-4410 LazyAcres.com Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm.

The Little Door SB 129 E. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, 805 560-8002 TheLittleDoorSB.com Featuring a charming outdoor patio overlooking the Spanish Colonial architecture of the renowned Courthouse. Offers a magical ambiance and sense of communion around the table. Executive chef Oscar Ledesma draws inspiration from the farmers market and French Mediterranean flavors to accentuate his contemporary American fare. Open Sun–Thu 4:30–10pm, Fri–Sat: 4:30–11pm, Happy Hour 4:30–6pm.

McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams

120 State St., Suite B, Santa Barbara 728 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 324-4402 McConnells.com McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, founded in Santa Barbara in 1949, is now in its third generation of family ownership. They make their ice creams as they always have: from scratch, using Central Coast, grassgrazed milk, cream and the finest local, sustainable and organic ingredients from partner farms, artisans and purveyors they’ve worked with for decades. No preservatives. No stabilizers. No additives. Ever. A 70year sweet legacy of keeping it real.

Montecito Country Mart 1016 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-9664 MontecitoCountryMart.com The Montecito Country Mart has been renovated and preserved, with its original barbershop, post office, market and old-fashioned toy store, as well as Rori’s Artisanal Creamery, Bettina, Merci, Caffe Luxxe, CO Collections, Kendall Conrad, Little Alex’s, Malia Mills, Hudson Grace, James Perse and Space NK Apothecary. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.

Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, 805 693-0700 OliveHillFarm.com Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open daily 11am–5pm.

The Painted Cabernet is a locally owned paint-and-sip art studio. Instructional artists guide you through the painting one step at a time while giving you the time to sip a little wine, visit with your neighbor, listen to some great music and have a fun night out. Date night, birthday parties, girls’ night and team-building events, or book a private event for your group. Open Tue–Wed noon–5pm, Thu–Sat noon–9pm, Sun 5–9pm.

Pico at The General Store

458 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1122 LosAlamosGeneralStore.com Pico at the Los Alamos General Store brings a culinary, wine and shopping experience to “Little LA” in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Wine Country. Chef Drew Terp offers a menu of approachable California cuisine sourced from locally-farmed, seasonal ingredients. Open Tue–Thu 3–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm; Happy Hour 4–5pm.

Plow & Angel at San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara 805 565-1700 SanYsidroRanch.com Enjoy a comfortable, convivial atmosphere in this locals’ favorite. Famous for its mac ’n’ cheese and awardwinning ribs, the Plow & Angel is the place to see and be seen. The cozy ambiance is enhanced with original artwork, including gorgeous stained-glass windows and an homage to its namesake, Saint Isadore, hanging above the fireplace. Open for dinner 5–10pm; bar open 5–11pm weekdays and until midnight Fri–Sat.

Plow to Porch 805 895-7171 PlowToPorch.com Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!

Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 569-2400 1324 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 892-280 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito RenaudsBakery.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm; Sun 7am–3pm.

Root 246 420 Alisal Rd., Solvang 805 686-8681 Root-246.com Solvang restaurant Root 246, in the heart of Santa Barbara wine country, boasts inspired and inventive menus by Chef Crystal “Pink” DeLongpré, who crafts seasonal dishes rooted in her food philosophy of utilizing local, organic vegetables and organic, grassfed, pasture-raised animals. Expansive wine and spirits lists, hand-crafted cocktails. Open at 4pm, Tue–Sun. Late night in the lounge: Fri and Sat until midnight.

Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market 805 962-5354 SBFarmersMarket.org

Six markets, six days a week. Schedule on page 9.

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Savoy Café & Deli 24 W. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com A family owned and operated café featuring scratch cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past 12 years. Award-winning salad bar, bakery, soup, hot and cold prepared foods, coffee and tea bar and excellent selection of wines by the glass. Cozy atmosphere, dog friendly patio. Open Mon–Sat 7am–8:30pm; closed Sun.

San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara, 805 565-1700 SanYsidroRanch.com Now reopened! Nestled in the Montecito foothills of Southern California’s wine country, San Ysidro Ranch has provided a tranquil vacation destination for over a century. Visit the Stonehouse, named one of the 50 best restaurants in America by Open Table, or visit Plow & Angel for a comfortable and convivial atmosphere.

Scratch Kitchen 610 N. H St., Lompoc, 805 819-0829 Scratch-Kitchen.com With a wealth of local and seasonal produce and local wines, Scratch Kitchen aims to highlight all the best culinary elements of the Lompoc and Santa Ynez Valleys. Open for Lunch: Tue–Sat 11am–3pm, Happy Hour: Tue–Sun 3–5pm, Dinner: Tue–Sat 5–9pm, Sunday Brunch: 10am–2pm, Sunday Dinner: 5–8pm.

Solvang Olive Company 1578 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 213-1399 SolvangOliveCo.com Solvang Olive features locally grown olive oils, fruit and balsamic vinegar and hand-crafted gourmet olives. The Solvang store also carries olive oil beauty products, tableware and cooking ingredients created by Californian artisans. Tasting room open Wed–Thu 10am–4pm, Fri–Sun 9am–5pm.

Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara 805 565-1700 SanYsidroRanch.com Located in a 19th-century citrus-packing house, the Stonehouse features a relaxing lounge with full bar service and a separate dining room with crackling fireplace and creekside views. Guests can dine on the ocean-view deck––a wood-burning fireplace and heated stone flooring provide year-round comfort. The regional cuisine is prepared with a palette of herbs and vegetables harvested from the on-site chef’s garden. Lunch 11:30am–2pm Mon–Sat; dinner 6–10pm daily; Sun Champagne brunch 10:30am–2pm.

Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 691-9444 SucculentCafe.com Comfort food with a twist, prepared with seasonal and local farm-fresh ingredients. The best charcuterie plates around feature farm-fresh cheese, house-made jam, pickled vegetables, nuts and fruit. Great local wine, craft beer and signature cocktails. Open Mon, Wed– Fri 10am–9pm, Sat–Sun 8:30am–9pm; Happy Hour 3–5pm; Closed Tuesday.

Wine & Beer Alma Rosa Winery 250 Industrial Way A, Buellton, 805 688-9092 AlmaRosaWinery.com Alma Rosa wines express the distinctive spirit and character of the soils, sun exposure, fog, cooling winds and over four decades of experience in this beautiful 78 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SPRING 2019

Sta. Rita Hills sub-region of Santa Barbara wine country. Tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Mon–Thur noon–5:30pm.

Andrew Murray Vineyards 5249 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, 805 686-9604 AndrewMurrayVineyards.com Andrew Murray, a grape-growing pioneer and Rhône varietal visionary in Santa Barbara County, founded his winery in 1990. Andrew and his team look forward to sharing the AMV experience with you at their stunning Estate Winery and Visitor Center along Foxen Canyon Road. Tasting room open daily 10:30am–5:30pm.

Au Bon Climat 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-7999 AuBonClimat.com The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots. Jim Clendenen has been making wines of vision and character for over 30 years, along with other varietals. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines available. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm.

August Ridge Vineyards 5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-8442 AugustRidge.com August Ridge crafts wine that combines the spirit of California with the restrained, classic elegance of wines from northern and central Italy. Distinctive wines from the Paso Robles region to be opened as you gather for a meal, surrounded by friends, family and loved ones. Tasting room open Sun–Mon, Wed–Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm. Happy Hour Mon and Wed 3–6pm. Closed Tuesday.

Babcock Winery & Vineyards 5175 E. Hwy. 246, Lompoc, 805 736-1455 BabcockWinery.com A passion for revolutionary farming and conservation continue to define this family-owned Sta. Rita Hills winery. Stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs are showcased alongside acclaimed Chardonnays and other varietals. Chill in the super soulful tasting room filled with vintage art and eclectic treasures. Tasting room open daily 11am–5:30pm.

Babi’s Beer Emporium 380 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1911 BabisBeerEmporium.com Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Valle Fresh’s tacos and tapas menu. Thu 4–8pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–6pm.

Buttonwood Farm Winery 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang, 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Tasting room open daily 11am–5pm.

Cambria Estate Winery 5475 Chardonnay Ln., Santa Maria, 805 938-7318 CambriaWines.com Family-owned, sustainably farmed estate winery. Visit and experience the flavors of the Santa Maria Bench. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier and Syrah. Open daily 10am–5pm.

Carr Winery 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 965-7985 CarrWinery.com Carr specializes in limited-production wines including Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Franc. Enjoy the ambiance of a working winery while sipping delicious wines on the patio or at the barrel-top bar. Wine tasting, wine on tap and wines by the glass served daily. Monthly art shows and live music. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.

Carr Warehouse 3563 Numancia St., Santa Ynez 805 688-5757 CarrWinery.com Carr Winery’s 3,800-square-foot tasting room and wine warehouse is where all of the Carr Wines are waxed and bottle aged. The tasting room has an open floor plan with a U-shaped bar and booths, perfect for large groups. Enjoy wine tasting and wines by the glass. Daily 11am–6pm.

Casa Dumetz 388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900 CasaDumetzWines.com A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Open Thu noon–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun 11–6pm, Mon noon–4pm. Vineyard tours and barrel sampling available by appointment.

CrossHatch Winery 436 Alisal Rd. (in the windmill), Solvang 805 691-9192 CrosshatchWinery.com Wine tasting and wines by the glass in a historical windmill featuring blends from Santa Barbara County vineyards. Stop by to enjoy the views from the patio or grab a seat at the bar. Only 800 cases produced. Sun– Mon noon–6pm, Thu–Sat noon–7pm.

Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251 FoxenVineyard.com The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open 11am–4pm daily.

Kitá Winery 300 N. 12th St., Unit 1A, Lompoc 805 819-1372 KitaWines.com Established in 2010 as a small, premium wine producer, Kitá’s focus is on respecting the balance of soil, climate, location and taste. The word “Kitá” means “our valley oak” in the Santa Ynez Chumash language of Samala. Open Thu–Fri 2–6pm, Sat noon–6pm and Sun noon–5pm.

Lama Dog 116 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 805 880-3364 LamaDog.com Craft beer taproom and bottle shop located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thu 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. @lamadog


Longoria Wines 415 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc, 866-759-4637 LongoriaWine.com Longoria Wines is a small family-owned winery with over three decades of producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Enjoy a tasting or a glass of wine in the tasting room or lounge of the restored historic JM Club at their new winery facility in Lompoc, open daily 11am–4:30pm.

Margerum Wine Company 32 El Paseo in the center courtyard, Santa Barbara, 805 845-8435 59 Industrial Way, Buellton, 805 686-8500 MargerumWines.com Located in the historic El Paseo complex, Margerum offers two venues for tasting in Downtown Santa Barbara. Enjoy a tasting (or a glass) of handcrafted, small production Margerum and Barden wines sourced from top vineyards around Santa Barbara County. Open Mon–Wed noon–5pm, Thu–Sun noon–6pm. Margerum also now offers tasting at their winery on Industrial Way in Buellton. Taste Margerum and Barden releases, sample wine from tank or barrel and tour the winery. Open Sat–Sun noon–5pm.

Martian Ranch & Vineyard 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos 805 344-1804 MartianVineyard.com The Martian Ranch tasting room is open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Taste their estate-grown biodynamically farmed wines for an out-of-this-world experience! Winery tours daily; vineyard tours on the weekends. Enjoy wines by the glass, bocce court, horseshoe pit and dog-friendly picnic areas. Open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Mon and Tues by appointment only.

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open in Santa Barbara 11am–6pm daily. Open in Santa Maria 10am–4pm daily.

Savoy Wines 18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 962-5353 SavoyWinesSB.weebly.com Locally owned and operated, Savoy Wines is Santa Barbara’s go-to wine shop. Boasting an extensive local and import selection, the shop offers one-ofa-kind ambiance, with knowledgeable, friendly and outgoing staff to assist you in finding that perfect bottle, in a relaxed vibe, smack dab in the middle of downtown Santa Barbara. Open Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Closed Sun.

Telegraph Brewing Co. 418 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 963-5018 TelegraphBrewing.com Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the

tasting room, open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri–Sat 2–10pm; Sun 1–7pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California.

Wine Collector’s Room 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 689-3569 WineCollectorsRoom.com Santa Barbara’s newest private wine storage facility. The Wine Collector’s Room has over 40 private, climatecontrolled lockers and a members-only lounge. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.

The Wine Shepherd 30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-1012 WineShepherdSB.com The Wine Shepherd is a cozy wine bar and retail shop featuring local and international wines with a focus on rare, esoteric and old vintage bottles. Located next to The Black Sheep Restaurant in Santa Barbara’s Presidio neighborhood. Open Tue–Sun noon–10pm.

Zaca Mesa Winery 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339 ZacaMesa.com Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhône-style wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.

selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.

The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County 805 967-5741 FoodbankSBC.org Working every day to move people from hunger into health. The mission of the Foodbank is to provide nourishment to those in need by acquiring and distributing safe nutritious foods via local agencies and providing education to solve hunger and nutrition problems in Santa Barbara County.

Ken Helman 718 622-5727 KenHelman.com Teacher, singer, pianist and songwriter Ken Helman has a gift for helping people express themselves through their own unique vocal instrument. Ken creates a powerfully motivational atmosphere in which his students at all levels can access the freedom and joy that singing connects us to.

On Q Financial 1332 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0694 OnQFinancial.com

Specialty Retail

Since 2013, On Q Financial’s goal has been to ensure the mortgage process is streamlined and smooth for every client. Their team even works closely with community partners to provide homebuyers’ workshops to the Santa Barbara community. They are ready to help you purchase a home or refinance your existing home loans—in Santa Barbara and beyond.

Buckaroo Grills

Sansum Clinic

805 689-6081 BuckarooGrills.com Offering a variety of wood-burning barbecue grills with a variable speed fan system that allows you to cook as quickly as you would on a gas grill but with that coveted wood-fired flavor.

CBD & Honey Body Care by Life Elements 805 423-6529 CBDNHoney.com Life Elements CBD & Honey body care soothes aches and pains, relieves inflammation, hydrates and repairs dry skin. Locally handcrafted with organic, full spectrum hemp-derived CBD and pure bee goodness of beeswax, honey, propolis, royal jelly and pollen. A natural health alternative for your medicine cabinet.

Tecolote Bookstore 1470 E. Valley Rd., Montecito 805 969-4977 Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5pm; closed Sun.

SansumClinic.org Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.

SBCC Foundation 805 730-4401 SBCCFoundation.org The SBCC Foundation was established in 1976 to provide Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support. The foundation acts in partnership with the college and bridges the gap between available public funding and institutional need, as determined by the college leadership. The SBCC Foundation provides more than $4 million annually for student success programs, scholarships, book grants and other critical needs of the college in order to support SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.

Professional Services

Visit Santa Maria

American Riviera Bank

Just like our barbecue, the recipe for our way of life requires simplicity, character, soul and a touch of spice. Hit the road and explore all you can do in and around Santa Maria Valley. You’ll find it’s the perfect home base, where you can eat, drink and do more for less.

525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110 AmericanRivieraBank.com 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942 AmericanRivieraBank.com

SantaMariaValley.com

Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully

EdibleSantaBarbara.com SPRING 2019 | 79


THE LA ST

Sip

Spring’s Don’t-Miss Dink Photos and Words by Liz Dodder

Santa Barbara County

Sparkling Wine in Los Olivos

By now, eating and drinking local in Santa Barbara County is easy. With our plethora of local farmers and chefs who embrace local ingredients, along with the more than 200 wineries and over 21,349 acres planted to wine grapes, you can easily find locally grown food, wine and food products to enjoy every day of the year. Thankfully, you can also include sparkling wine! Sparkling wine is a labor of love for many Santa Barbara County vintners, and the number of local producers has been growing slowly and steadily over the last 10 years. Today, with the popularity of an ancestral method resulting in a sparkling wine called Pét-nat, there are over 50 producers of sparkling wine in the county, making bubbly wine available here year-round. Pét-nat is short for pétillant naturel, or natural bubbles, and is the oldest (and easiest) way to make sparkling wine. It differs from traditional Champagne production in that the wine is bottled before the fermentation is complete (so only one fermentation happens, partially in the bottle), no sugar or yeast is added for a second fermentation, and it’s usually unfiltered, and can be made from a multitude of grape varieties. It also takes a much shorter time than the traditional method, meaning more winemakers can get in on the bubbly action. Pét-nat’s bubbles typically don’t last as long as those in traditional sparkling wine and the flavors can be all over the map, instead of the classic style and flavor profile you get from the méthode traditionnelle. Los Olivos has a high concentration of these fun, fresh bubbles, as well as traditional sparkling wine, so it’s a perfect place to go bubbly tasting this spring.

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Pét-nats include Carhartt’s sparkling rosé of Grenache, Dreamcôte’s three different Pét-nats (Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Verdejo) and Solminer, also with three different bubblies (all certified organic and biodynamic: Riesling, rosé of Syrah and Sparkling Syrah). Some of the traditional sparklers in town are Blair Fox (also rosé made from Grenache), Coquelicot’s Sparkling Riesling, Fess Parker’s Fesstivity label (three different sparkling wines from classic Blanc de Blancs to sparkling red Grenache plus a 30th Anniversary Magnum of sparkling Cuvée, all available at the Bubble Shack), Toretti Blanc de Noirs, and E11even Blanc de Blancs. Plus, you can also get small-lot Loubud Blanc de Noirs & Goat Bubbles from Flying Goat (some of the oldest bubbles in the county) at local wine shop Community Craft. Find more Santa Barbara County bubbles at CaliCoastWineCountry.com, and celebrate spring in Los Olivos: Pop some local bottles! Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com


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Profile for Edible Santa Barbara

Edible Santa Barbara Spring 2019  

Celebrating the local food & wine culture of Santa Barbara County

Edible Santa Barbara Spring 2019  

Celebrating the local food & wine culture of Santa Barbara County

Profile for ediblesb