Celebrating the Local Food and Drink of Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito Counties
Continental Shift: How a Montereybased chef inspires zoos and museums from coast to coast; Rural Revelation: Suncoast Organic Farm pulls in hundreds with its weekend lunch; Flavor Reeducation: Recovery leads to redemption and A+ school nutrition
A heartfelt love note to an adorable li’l autumn treat
29 B AKING WITH THE SEASONS
Companion Bakery
The smash hit had to survive crazy days—and get creative—to reach 20 years with style points
37 FALL FARMERS MARKETS
A comprehensive guide for the Monterey Bay’s three counties
40 L OCAL FOODS IN SEASON HEIRLOOM BEANS
EMB’s first bilingual story stirs up wisdom inspired by legend-level legumes
46 I N THE VINEYARD A FAMILY TRADITION
Gary Pisoni changed the Santa Lucia landscape—now new generations up the buzz
52 I N THE FIELD STEINBECK CHASER
Exploring the author’s preferred terrain and the thoughts and plots that come with it
60 A PPETITE FOR TRAVEL SM ALL WONDER
A singularly tiny town delivers similarly rare character
67 COOKBOOK CONFIDENTIAL SEASONS OF GREENS
Chef-author Katie Reicher draws from femi-Zen wisdom to create a remarkable plant-based guide
73 DINE LOCAL GUIDE
88 LA ST CALL CORRALITOS VODKA
The area’s very small catalog of local liquors gains a farm-fresh addition
RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE
21 Momma Carol’s Meatloaf
25 Pumpkin-Yogurt Muffins
33 S avory Autumn Gallettes
43 Fall Bean Salad
44 Tepoztlán-Style Bean Soup
59 A Steinbeck Cocktail: The Slow L ike Suzy
69 C aramelized Mushroom and Onion Pasta
COVER PHOTOGRAPH
Patrick Tregenza
CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPH
Mark C. Anderson
GRIST FOR THE MILL
My life was filled with so much change and activity this summer that for once I’m looking forward to the familiar routines of fall.
Since the last issue of Edible Monterey Bay, I’ve become a first-time grandma, my husband retired, I broke my ankle, we had non-stop visitors (mostly to see the baby), squeezed in two excellent concerts in the Sierra, made a couple trips to the beach and enjoyed many memorable dinners with friends.
Now it’s time to slow down and appreciate the last warm days and lengthening evenings. We hope you relax with us and savor this Fall issue of EMB
In this edition, we go back to school. Reporter Kera Abraham introduces us to pro chef Terry Bumper, who is having great success on a personal level and at a Seaside charter school where students devour his fresh, healthy food and even try a variety of exotic dishes.
Jamie Collins takes us to Live Oak School District in Santa Cruz, where a school farm is taking shape under the direction of Geoff Palla—formerly of Berkeley’s famed Edible Schoolyard Project—and a Live Oak Food Lab helps students “experience vegetables” in new and delicious ways.
We also go traveling with chef Matt Beaudin and EMB managing editor Mark C. Anderson, who explain how lessons of sustainability learned at the Monterey Bay Aquarium are making their way onto the menus of museums, zoos, aquariums and even battleships across the country.
And for readers who relish a quick local literature refresher, reporter Laura Holson revisits author John Steinbeck’s greatest works in her story “Eats of Eden,” searching for places named in his books and stories, as well as where to dine (and drink) like Steinbeck along the way.
There is much more to enjoy and learn from in these pages, including a bilingual bean story to test your Spanish and seven great fall recipes to try as the days cool down.
Our Fall issue release party takes place Wednesday, September 17 from 5pm to 7pm on the patio of the Bayview Grille at the Bayonet & Black Horse Golf Club in Seaside. It’s going to be a great party, so save the date.
See you there!
Deborah Luhrman Publisher
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER
Deborah Luhrman
deborah@ediblemontereybay.com
831.600.8281
FOUNDERS
Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher
MANAGING EDITOR
Mark C. Anderson
COPY EDITOR
Doug Adrianson
LAYOUT & DESIGN
Matthew Freeman and Tina Bossy-Freeman
AD PRODUCTION COORDINATOR
Tracy Smith
AD DESIGNERS
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CONTRIBUTORS
Kera Abraham • Analuisa Béjar • Jamie Collins
Robert Eliason • Kodiak Greenwood
Kelly Rose Evans • Laura M. Holson
Glen McDowell • Laura Ness • Hanif Panni
Erin Scott • Stuart Thornton • Patrick Tregenza
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ADVERTISING SALES
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CONTACT US:
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Our Mission
At Edible Monterey Bay , our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.
EDIBLE NOTABLE
Natural Attractions
Monterey Bay Aquarium and SSA Group make a monumental impact through food
By Mark C. Anderson
You’ve seen a friend post a photo of their laptop on a beach with the caption, “My office for the day.”
Monterey-based chef Matt Beaudin can play that game.
As corporate director of culinary innovation at Denver-based SSA Group—which partners with Monterey Bay Aquarium on food and drink—his workplace can cover some ground.
One day he could be at the Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve in Honolulu; on another, in Rochester, NY, at the Strong National Museum of Play, which houses the world’s largest collection of video games. Or he might be visiting a full A-to-Z roster of zoos alone: 50 all told from Albuquerque BioPark to Zoo Miami. The SSA Group handles food service at all of them.
His main charge at each is to take things he’s studying, testing and/or workshopping in Monterey—whether compostable packaging or fish scraps transformed into dog treats—and offer them as options to other SSA sites.
“We’re looking for ways to push the envelope,” he says. “Better for you, better for the planet.”
A case study helps illustrate how it works. The 50/50 beef-mushroom burger at the Aquarium Café is already accomplishing a tidy triple play of reducing food costs, lowering environmental impacts and tasting fantastic—silky, juicy, unctuous at the same time, aided by secret-recipe “bay sauce.”
Where Beaudin figured the fungi would scare some off, sales actually doubled. “A burger with a purpose!” he says. “The idea is: Make it different, and make people think.”
Now Beaudin and Justin Robarge, a year-plus into his role as Aquarium executive chef (Beaudin’s previous post), have stumbled across a way to juice it up.
The fellow New Hampshire natives were on a mission to improve their raw juice program (through a partnership with Salinas-based Perfectly Pressed), so they were periscoping the process. Rather than compost the leftover pulp, they combined the carrot, beet and celery remains with their burger blend.
A smash, a sear and some vegetable sugar caramelization later—as the fibrous pulp absorbed the meat drippings—and the result was, per Beaudin, “too good to be true.’”
As this issue goes to press, the updated “75/25” burger is getting field tested against the 50/50 and a classic beef burger at the Aquarium Café, where visitor volume (2 million annually) allows for more experimentation and beta trials than elsewhere.
“We learn what’s driving the decision,” Beaudin says. “Are people getting a burger just because they want a burger, or do they want something more?”
From there, the idea isn’t to tell other SSA kitchens, Hey, here’s the healthier recipe you’ll be using from now on. Instead it’s Here’s what we learned, the story it tells and how it landed
“‘This worked for us, see if it can work for you,’” Beaudin says.
SSA’s site-specificity—“We partner individually, because each is unique,” Beaudin emphasizes more than once—balances with prodigious impact. All told, SSA partner venues welcome in 100 million visitors a year, more than the populations of Canada and South Korea combined.
“Our work is grounded in Monterey but has a much bigger reach,” Beaudin adds.
A quick tour of SSA properties along the West Coast, from north to south and back to Monterey, help reveal other avenues that innovation takes.
Seattle
Where
the experience envelopes
Composed of shimmering and swooping metal panels designed by Frank Gehry—to look like a smashed guitar, some say—MoPOP (Museum of Pop Culture) thumps visitors upon sight.
Then comes the Science Fiction & Fantasy Hall of Fame, the Sky Church’s 2,000-square-foot LED screen, and the pulsating and tornado-shaped “If VI Was IX” Sound Sculpture with 500+ musical instruments and 30+ computers working in harmony.
So there’s a lot to digest long before you get to Executive Chef Athan Pixler’s fennel-pollen-dusted purple clams, Washington butter flight, ricottatempura squash blossoms and braised Wagyu bone marrow (not to mention the Barbie Sparkle, Back in Black and Beyhive cocktails).
Beaudin believes MoPOP occupies a special place in SSA’s ecosystem given Pixler’s wild epicurean ambitions and drive to root them in 30 collaborations with local fishermen, growers and purveyors, like San Juan Island Sea Salt and the fermentation gurus at Firefly Kitchens.
“The audience there is made up of big dreamers, big thinkers, big concert lovers… and the food and flavors have to be as big as Biggie’s suit,” he says. “And MoPOP does an incredible job of meeting the moment.”
As Pixler—and plenty others—characterize MoPOP as more than a museum, he’s after more than nutrition.
“People assume sustainability is expensive, but if you do it strategically, it actually makes better business sense,” he says. “The key is knowing where to invest and how to tell the story. Guests are willing to pay a little more for something that feels authentic, local to the region and meaningful.”
Matt Beaudin attempts to carry a bag of cocoa locals carry casually. “I could barely lift the thing,” he says. “They joked I might break my neck, so they helped hoist it up.” The whole fried local rockfish at Monterey Bay Aquarium, meanwhile, needs less effort to enjoy.
“People assume sustainability is expensive, but if you do it strategically, it actually makes better business sense.”
Oakland
Where zoo food rises
The only way to The Landing Café at Oakland Zoo is a four-minute gondola ride that travels 1,780 feet of wire from the company of camels, giraffes and lions, climbing some 300 feet of panoramic views that stretch to San Francisco.
The only way dishes make it on the lineup of chef’s specials is through creativity and area purveyors like Simoni & Massoni Farms and County Line Harvest.
“It’s nice to offer something other than the normal, and spotlight how we procure the food,” says SSA Northern California Area Chef Peter Gregorio. “There’s nothing like the comment, ‘I never expected this, or would’ve thought about where it came from.’”
Make no mistake: SSA plays the chicken-tender-and-cheese-pizza hits like a veteran babysitter—albeit in more bespoke ways—and sells a lot of them. But each venue mandates a percentage of chef-driven dishes.
For Gregorio that takes the shape of recent specials like plantbased Chick’n tikka masala “naan-chos” and charred street corn with cilantro-jalapeño aioli, grated cotija, tajin, smoked paprika, chipotle powder, chopped cilantro and crispy chorizo, ready for a walk around the grounds.
“We have a chance to change the perception of what can be offered,” he says.
The USS Midway (above) hosts dozens of exhibit areas, including engine rooms, cadet quarters and flight decks. Over at Oakland Zoo’s Landing Café (left), chef specials like the Chick’n honey walnut sandwich and falafel “smash” burger give meat-free flavor ample runway.
Beaudin believes The Landing illustrates the impact of presentation. Seeing Gregorio’s boulder-of-a-falafel “smash” burger with whipped tzatziki feta is… believing.
“With cultural attractions, you have a short period of time, so the wow of plating helps bring a story to life, highlighting ingredients in a way that wouldn’t be possible singularly,” Beaudin says. “When it goes from a solo and then the entire orchestra kicks in, you feel it in your body.”
San Diego
Where history floats
You could say The USS Midway is playing the long game. The dockside museum stretches 1,001 feet 6 inches in length. It’s the longestserving American aircraft carrier of the 20th century (1945–92). And for Beaudin, it allows him to reach back in his own lineage: Both of his grandpas served in the Air Force.
“You think about how many meals were served on that ship before we got there,” he says, “and now we are part of continuing that story.”
While 10 acres of exhibits and 30 restored aircraft—an F-14 Tomcat, UH-1 Huey gunship and HUP Retriever helicopter among them—honor the past, SSA and its team also train their crosshairs in the other direction.
They were the first in decades to cook from the mess hall, where vintage menus describe midcentury meatloaf nights (which Beaudin wants to re-create), for Fourth of July celebrations and Top Gun: Maverick cast parties.
When active, the carrier had to run all-electric for fire safety. Today it remains electric to help test how SSA can deploy similar setups at other venues.
“So many lessons are exportable—especially over time,” Beaudin says, noting SSA started as a family concession. “The Midway aligns well with the broader mission: Know where you came from, but tell a bigger story, and keep moving forward.”
Monterey
Where
collaborations collide
While Beaudin digs working venue to venue, his ideal “office” lies elsewhere.
“Being in the field is where I pull my passion from,” he says. “Being in the kitchen is where I put it into action.”
On a recent trip he surveyed the cocoa process in West Africa, as part of a partnership with Oakland-based TCHO—which sources there—to hatch chocolate bar collaborations like the Pop Rocksspiked Culture Shock (for MoPop) and the blackberry-infused Grizzly Berry (for Oakland Zoo).
Another fresh expedition visited a shrimp farm in Vietnam’s mangroves to understand how best practices protect habitat for native species, humans included.
“I want to tell a story from the heart rather than from Google,” he says.
Those Seafood Watch green-rated shrimp go into a dish layered with tasty talking points. There are so many, and corresponding relationships, Exec Chef Robarge nicknamed them “collaboration nachos.”
There’s bulb kelp pickles and chili crisp from new partner Barnacle Foods, whose creator happens to be a marine biologist and son-in-law to an Aquarium volunteer who turned Beaudin on to the conservation-forward brand.
There’s the green-rated salmon from sustainable superstars Oro King, whose skins are dehydrated by Pacific Pet Treats up the street to be sold as crispy dog treats in the café.
There’s the red dulce “sea-chi,” a take on kimchi using Monterey Bay Seaweeds red dulce by Moss Landing Marine Labs marine ecologist Mike Graham, whose kelp the Aquarium was the first to feature.
Then there’s the “mangrove shrimp,” labeled simply to evoke curiosity.
“It gives us the opportunity to have the conversations,” Beaudin says.
At a recent lunch—even among a knockout lineup of cioppino, seafood-chicken-sausage paella, 50/50 burger, incredible poke bowl with kelp crackers and surprising cocktails (see sidebar, p. 20)—the nachos stood out.
But the Thai-style whole roasted rockfish—ungreasy, expertly salted and beautifully arranged—draws the most nodding heads from the table.
That comes from yet another relationship, this one with community-supported fishery Real Good Fish of Moss Landing, who Beaudin fished with this summer to participate in the process alongside founder Alan Lovewell.
A peek into the workings of SSA-Aquarium partner TCHO chocolate’s partners in Kumasi, Ghana, photographed with permission by Beaudin.
Drinking With the Fishes
Margaritas with moon jellies. High Tides at the Great Tide Pool. Palomas with the penguins.
“Never in a million years did I think this would be my life as a chef,”
Beaudin says. “I became a cook in high school at a time when I felt like a failure, and it was the only thing I thought I could do well.”
“We’re lucky to be working with people who are obsessed with their food, not just for the flavor, not just the culinary innovation, but its provenance, the experience, getting your hands dirty and understanding how it comes to be in front of you,” Lovewell says. “Matt and I both like working at different scales—locally, with roots in this fishing community and industry, but with an interest, and passion, and intentions, to create global change, as hard as that is.”
Beaudin admits that as a young chef his focus was elsewhere. “It was about me and my story,” he says. “Now I’m most concerned with how we tell the stories of partners—how do we look less at what’s new on the menu and more at what partnerships we have developed?”
In other words, just another day at the office.
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay’s managing editor, often wishes he could teleport to Food Street in Kuala Lumpur for lunch.
As Edible Monterey Bay first reported in its free foodEnewsletter this summer, the Monterey Bay Aquarium has introduced a concierge cocktail bar program that allows guests to roam the 200,000 square feet of public exhibits with a resealable and reusable jar.
Like many of the innovations that find expression under SSA’s guidance, the nexus for the program was practical.
SSA’s kitchen team had an unused space in the back corner of the dining area. Aquarium Exec Chef Robarge threw out the idea. Culinary GM Rachel Schanding helped design the menu and… splash!
Now you can take a batchmade Packard Pledge (Patron silver tequila, triple sec, Meyer lemon and honey thyme syrup) to toast a sevengill shark.
Mark C. Anderson
Monterey
AD ASTRA ATELIER
Mid Valley Center Carmel
Food
Just like Grandma used to say— nothing goes to waste. Every peel, husk, and leftover has a purpose. When we throw food in the trash, we waste more than a meal, we lose the love and labor that went into it. But when we put food scraps in the green organics cart, we honor that labor of love while protecting our future.
California’s SB 1383 law keeps food out of landfills, reducing pollution and turning scraps into compost that nourishes local farms and gardens.
A
EDIBLE NOTABLES
DOWNHOME UPGRADE
rare combo—handbuilt barn + orchard + earnest beer + great bread— makes a leap in San Benito County STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT ELIASON
By the time the gates leading to the Suncoast Organic Farm open at noon, the entry road is already filled with cars, with more circling Hollister’s Southside Road for a chance to get in line.
The stream of lunchtime customers continues until closing at 5pm, with the small staff trying to keep up with the orders for smashburgers, pulled pork sandwiches and apricot cobbler.
“Welcome to the nuthouse!” shouts co-owner David Jensen as he stirs the french fries bubbling away in a vat of beef tallow. If he is tired, he does not show it, though he’s been up since 4am, baking the day’s bread.
They serve 247 burgers and 140 pulled pork sandwiches. Although they experience some glitches, none of the diners seem bothered. They are happy just to relax on the patio of the brewery-bakery, taking in the nearby corral filled with whimsical animal figures against a backdrop of rolling hills.
“I would come just for the atmosphere,” says Tina Hernandez, who ordered the Big Daddy, a double burger with apple-smoked bacon. “The people are always kind, the food is always delicious and it’s just beautiful out here.”
The biweekly lunches are in addition to Suncoast’s weekly drivethrough pickups. Online orders can be placed from a rotating menu that includes specialty sourdoughs such as country leaven, jalapeño cheddar, and cheese-and-onion, made with Suncoast’s Nuthouse Ale. Other sweet treats, like churro croissants, blueberry braids and assorted gelatos, also prove popular.
The sit-down sandwich events, which began on April 12, are a nod to the twice-weekly offerings available before the pandemic. They’re also another step in the controlled expansion of a business that has a growing reputation as one of San Benito County’s best out-of-theway culinary destinations.
Renowned muralist John Cerney contributed a dozen paintings on property, including Millie the dog, who awaits folks at the ramp.
People are drawn to Suncoast by more than the setting conjured by 400 olive trees. Everything is fresh, everything is organic. Whatever they can’t source from their own land, they get from nearby farms like Pinnacle, Coke and Swank. The bread is sold the morning it is baked, and it is hard to imagine an intriguing grain they have not used yet, including amaranth, ryeberries and Blanco Grande wheat berry.
Suncoast’s origin as a bakery happened almost randomly in 2008, when Lisa Miller left her career in radio to spend more time with her 7-year-old son. She joined her stepfather, Gary Miller, in selling olive oil at the Mountain View farmers market and began wondering how to build the business.
She toured several bakeries, but was most impressed by Miller’s Bake House in Chico, where she watched owner Dave Miller (no relation) grind flour on a stone mill to make his bread. He sold only at farmers markets, and to Lisa that seemed like a sound business model.
The first step was to convert an old barn on her stepfather’s property into a fully commercial kitchen, using a blueprint sketched out on graph paper. According to Lisa, the building was barely standing, and it took three years of hard work to complete the restoration.
The next hurdle was to learn how to use the Mugnaini wood-fired oven. She knew nothing about baking when she started, and many a charred-bread briquette was tossed before she was able to submit a success to the California Association of Farmers Markets.
“When I decided on baking, I wanted to do it old school,” she says. “I wanted to be authentic like ‘Little House on the Prairie.’ But they don’t tell you how much knowledge and labor are involved!”
Lisa found an able partner in David Jensen, her match in terms of work ethic and culinary excellence, and they married in 2009. Jensen learned to bake as a kid living in Kathmandu with his diplomat father, and, being remarkably handy at everything he does, managed to find time between batches of bread and beer to build the couple’s home.
Lisa Miller and David Jensen stack their burger with organic beef, plus lettuce and tomato from Pinnacle Farms, on a fresh-baked olive oil brioche bun. Roxie (lower right) approves.
The private wells and solar panels also help keep costs down, as does sourcing ingredients from the 120 fruit trees on property.
The couple purchased a grain mill crafted from North Carolina granite, which Lisa says is one of the keys to Suncoast’s success in terms of flavor and nutrition. According to Lisa, using a steel rolling mill to crush the wheat releases an acid which, within 72 hours, makes baked goods dead. A stone mill keeps all the nutrients in flour for up to six months.
“It’s kind of like having live bread,” she says.
The first major change in the business occurred in 2011, when a rainout at the farmers market resulted in a large amount of unsold inventory. Local fans and market customers flocked to the barn after a Facebook post, buying up the entire inventory.
Sensing an opportunity, they started selling at both locations until they hit a breaking point one day: They sold so much at the barn that they had no inventory to take to the market.
“We were working so much that we felt unhealthy,” Lisa says. The solution: Selling on premises exclusively on Fridays and Saturdays.
Having the barn as their base of operations allowed them to expand their menu to include turkey avocado sandwiches, veggie wraps, tri-tip sandwiches, pizza and desserts. It also enabled better quality control and avoided some of the costs associated with going to market, which meant lower prices for their customers.
In 2016, Jensen expanded into beermaking, producing his Nuthouse Brew on-site. That helped keep customers around later in the evening.
“We were looking for a way to grow the business, and a brewery was an ideal fit,” Jensen says.
Jensen now has four seven-barrel fermentors and three 14-barrel fermentors—enough, he says, that he “could supply Hollister with beer.” His current beers include Cascade Crush, made with Cascade
Hops and Two-Row grain; American Ale, based on Victory malt and featuring Nugget, Cascade and Centennial hops; and Tropical IPA, which features Vista, Citra and Mosaic hops. Most of the hops used in the beers are grown on-site, and the grains are milled there too.
One of the crucial components of the baked and brewed goods is the water drawn from the two wells on the property. It’s chlorine free, has a high calcium content and a pH of almost 8.5, which is adjusted for brewing with a reverse osmosis system that allows them to match the water profile to its intended uses.
Meanwhile the wells are powered by an array of 65 solar panels, as are the refrigeration units, the glycol chillers, a soon-to-be-built walkin freezer and their residence.
The wells and panels also help keep costs down, as does sourcing their own ingredients from the 120 non-olive trees on the property, including apples, plums, figs, oranges, lemons, limes, chestnuts and kumquats. Much of the produce comes from an outdoor garden and a greenhouse that grows berries, tomatoes, corn, peppers and more.
Lisa believes access to the freshest organic ingredients honors her stepfather Gary’s philosophy of offering only the most splendid possible products to the community.
“We want to be the best in everything we do,” Lisa says. “People say, ‘You guys do everything,’ but it’s out of necessity… With us, it’s always about quality.”
Robert Eliason covers the San Benito County food and wine scene, in addition to less delicious beats reporting on the region’s breaking news, government and events.
Chef and slow-living advocate Molly Bravo shares her trusted techniques and time-tested recipes for capturing peak-season flavors safely and confidently. O
EDIBLE NOTABLES
NEW SCHOOL NUTRITION
Terry Bumper redeems his story—and finds his calling—feeding kids better food, and paying it forward
BY KERA ABRAHAM
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HANIF PANNI AND MARK C. ANDERSON
An hour after Terry Bumper arrived at The Bridge Restoration Ministry, the staff took his phone.
“I felt like I was turning myself in to jail again,” he says.
He’d come to Monterey, a place he’d barely heard of, for a substance abuse recovery program that included culinary training. He was already a pro: He had attended a cooking school and worked at restaurants on and off for years.
As Bumper settled into the program, the Bridge’s staff were wowed by his Southern cuisine: fried chicken, po’boys, sliders. But his personality made an even bigger impression.
“It was his enthusiasm, his love of food, his love of people and his confidence,” says Mike Casey, director of The Bridge. “If he didn’t know how to do something, he could get creative.”
Soon Bumper was leading culinary classes, writing menus for The Bridge’s catering operation, and running the kitchen at Calvary Monterey church.
“It was definitely a God thing,” he says.
Four years later, Bumper is now the food services director at International School of Monterey, a public charter school in Seaside. Only two years into the job, he’s transformed an unpopular heat-and-serve lunch program into a from-scratch operation featuring international dishes, like birria and kuku paka, that kids are actually eating. He also runs a catering company, Flava 2 You, and still finds time to volunteer.
When the school celebrated him on Food Hero Day, Bumper was mortified. “I think praise is out of his comfort zone,” says his boss, Lisa Wichael Loomis.
But there’s one thing that Bumper owns with no hesitation.
“I hate to sound bougie,” he says, “but I have no flaws in cooking.”
When Bumper was a junior in college, a torn knee ligament derailed his football career and hooked him on painkillers. Through his 20s and 30s he swung between addiction and sobriety, falling into opiates or alcohol for months at a time, then climbing out and building his career and a family.
He worked in restaurants in Los Angeles and Napa; he served time for writing bad checks. He got married, became a dad—then relapsed and went back to prison, again for fraud.
Toward the end of that sentence, his wife gave him an ultimatum: If he wanted to keep his family, he had to get clean and stay out of trouble. So in 2021, a week out of prison, he headed to The Bridge in Monterey.
After completing the 12-month recovery and culinary program, Bumper worked at a few local restaurants. Then he answered a Craigslist job posting for food service director at the International School.
Wichael Loomis, the school’s head of operations and human resources, was impressed by more than his culinary training.
“He had this really big heart,” she says. “He was someone who was going to connect well with people.”
Initially, Bumper's job was to manage school meals supplied by a longtime vendor, which he reheated from frozen in the school’s TurboChef oven. Kids complained, and Bumper didn’t blame them.
“When Terry was serving these meals, he was, like, ‘No bueno,’” Wichael Loomis says.
Bumper filled out the USDA compliance paperwork, becoming familiar with the federal food safety and nutrition standards. He also kept a journal tracking what the kids ate (mostly pizza and burritos) and what they threw away (which was a lot).
The cooked-from-frozen broccoli and green beans came out soggy, Bumper says; the salads were limp, too. The hamburgers featured stale buns and patties like hockey pucks.
So after his first year, he presented a proposal to replace the vendor himself.
His bosses gave him the shot. They’d gotten a state grant for kitchen upgrades, and they let him select the equipment. (He chose two convection ovens, a new exhaust system, stainless countertops, a freezer and a buffet station.)
In just one school year he’s doubled student participation in meals. That brings in more state and federal school lunch funding, which is based on the number of meals served (tracked by student IDs) rather than prepared. When the school was ordering from a vendor, it had to absorb the cost of the many lunches kids didn’t take.
Bumper’s bulk cooking—featuring fresh local produce from Serendipity Farms and Russo’s Wholesale—yielded an additional savings of about $1 per meal, compared with the vendor’s individually packaged lunches.
Bumper’s mac ‘n’ cheese sells fast at his festival appearances and proves a hit on the occasions he serves it at school. Don’t sleep on his pulled pork either.
finance. That freed up funding to hire a part-time kitchen assistant, who now helps Bumper with meal prep.
On school days he serves around 200 breakfasts, including “secondchance breakfast” at recess, and 390 lunches for 440 students. Hits from his regular menu include chicken pot pie and chicken and waffles.
Vegetarian options like Soyrizo and Impossible Burgers ensure more kids with dietary restrictions can enjoy Bumper’s lunches.
“Plant-based options are new to me,” he admits. “I’m coming at them with a different kind of love, because I want every kid to eat.”
His standouts are the multicultural specials. Every month, Bumper invites one grade to vote on four options; the winner is featured on international lunch day. Specials have included croque monsieur, chicken tikka masala and sushi.
My own kids attend the school, and I look forward to Bumper’s ParentSquare posts about the monthly specials. He says he writes them to honor both the heritage of each dish and the diverse school community, in which 19 primary languages are spoken at home.
To introduce the first special, Bumper posted: “It’s fascinating to see how the Lebanese diaspora continues to keep the cuisine alive and evolving, bringing new influences and interpretations to traditional dishes. Have you tried any specific Lebanese dishes or have any favorites? Well, our students will have their chance this month. We will be serving a chicken and potatoes dish known as djej wa batata.”
He announced another special—creamy chicken with butternut squash and pasta—as an example of Italian “cucina provera, the food of peasants that exemplifies the frugal genius of the Tuscans.”
For National Hispanic Heritage Month: “Birria is a regional variation of barbacoa, originating from western Mexico. It is a savory meat dish that has been marinated in an adobo sauce and subsequently cooked in a flavorful broth.”
All told, Bumper cut the cost of the school’s meal program in half, says Wichael Loomis, who crunches the numbers along with the school’s head of
And for an East African special: “Kuku paka is an African-Indian coconut chicken curry that’s popular with Indian communities in countries such as Kenya and Tanzania. Kuku means chicken in Swahili and paka means delicious in Punjabi. Fun to say. Delicious to eat!”
The posts give me FOMO, but student participation tends to dip, initially, on international lunch days. Kids are reluctant to try unfamiliar foods, Bumper says, until word gets around on the playground:
“He had this really big heart. He was someone who was going to connect well with people.”
“Sometimes down on the benches a kid will see someone else’s plate. They’ll run over to get some before we close up.”
Wichael Loomis is struck by the school community’s consensus. “Everyone loves what Terry’s doing, hands down,” she says. “We haven’t heard a single complaint.”
As we chat in her office, Bumper walks in with a box of wilted lettuce for the kindergarten’s chickens. He takes other leftovers to The Bridge and the Veterans Affairs office in Marina. When the school needed money for computers, Bumper donated his labor to their fundraiser, cooking family-sized to-go meals featuring his tender, smoky brisket.
“He’s passionate about giving back to this community,” Wichael Loomis says.
In 2023 Bumper started his catering company, Flava 2 You. A dozen five-star
Yelp reviews extol his food, mostly in the Southern comfort category: spicy greens, cornbread, stuffed potatoes, fried chicken.
His clients describe Bumper as a perfectionist—an attentive chef who checks in often before the event, arrives early to prep and cook, and leaves the kitchen spotless.
“The food is like your grandma cooked it,” reviewer Austin K. writes. “The owner Terry is one-of-a-kind and has a gentle soul.”
“The food was absolutely delicious! Presentation was excellent!” notes client Diane C. “He and his team were respectful, helpful, friendly, and eager to make the occasion perfect.”
Though he’s known for soul food, Bumper prides himself on catering to client requests. “I don’t have a set menu,” he says. “That’s the game with Flava.”
He recalls a private party in Carmel Valley where the client asked him to cook a turkey, “but not regular,” Bumper says. “That was her words.”
So he spatchcocked the bird, injected it with creamy Italian dressing until it was plump, buttered the skin and rubbed it with his custom mix of garlic, pepper, salt, coriander, paprika, onion powder and Cajun seasoning. It came out of the oven golden-crisp and infused with flavor, the juiciest turkey he’d ever baked.
After a recent recovery meeting, Casey and Bumper went head-to-head in a cookoff. The dishes: collard greens and mac 'n' cheese. Both trophies, by popular vote of about 100 people, went to Bumper.
The secret to his mac is the omission of flour—he says starch has no place in a dish that should be purely creamy. Velveeta, Creole seasoning, egg, evaporated milk and shredded cheese comprise a sauce that meets his standards for spoonabilty.
Casey, a home chef and foodie, jokes that the competition’s not over. He once won a tri-tip cookoff with Bumper and says he’s ready for a brisket rematch.
“He’s been talking that game for the last year,” Bumper retorts.
The two men go on regular tasting missions—they’ve been to San Jose for pastrami, to San Francisco for prime rib—and feeding missions, passing out hundreds of hamburgers and hot dogs to unhoused people in Salinas’s Chinatown. Meanwhile, Bumper mentors Bridge residents in recovery and says he’s reconnecting with his family. The service energizes him.
“It makes me want to do better,” he says. “I owe this world so much more than I’m giving right now.”
Kera Abraham is a Seaside-based writer, community advocate and communications consultant. A few things that give her joy: schooling sardines, fresh-baked sourdough and wooden stairs in the woods.
Momma Carol’s Meatloaf
Courtesy of Chef Terry Bumper
Meatloaf is the last dish Bumper remembers cooking with his mom, Carol, before she got sick with multiple sclerosis. “Sweetness and the nice texture of ground meat, how could you not like it?” he says. “You got to have a slice of cornbread with it, everything made from scratch. For how poor we were, that was our steak.”
Cooking spray
½ cup packed brown sugar
½ cup ketchup
1½ pounds lean ground beef
2 large eggs
1 small onion, chopped
¾ cup milk
¾ cup finely crushed Saltine cracker crumbs
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Gather all ingredients. Preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC).
Lightly grease a 5- by 9-inch loaf pan. Press brown sugar into the bottom of the prepared loaf pan and spread ketchup on top of the sugar.
Mix all remaining ingredients thoroughly in a mixing bowl and shape into a loaf. Place into the loaf pan on top of the ketchup and sugar crust.
Bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour, or until juices are clear. Serves 6-8.
WHAT’S IN SEASON Honeynut Squash
Why many are obsessed with this fleeting—and cute—gourd (and you should be too)
STORY BY JAMIE COLLINS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KELLY ROSE EVANS
That there could be anything better to replace my beloved butternut was unimaginable!
When I was a broke college student at Cal Poly majoring in crop science, I would buy butternut squash and roast them to bring to school for lunch.
Winter squash are cheap, nutritious and a good way to fill up on a student’s budget.
I remember fellow ag students looking at me as if I was an alien as I happily ate my winter squash while they stood in line for their daily tri-tip sandwich, devoid of vegetables.
I found it amusing that I was eating what we were studying but was thought of as the weird one.
I love butternut for its versatility and flavor. To think that there could be anything better to replace my beloved butternut was unimaginable!
Flash forward a few decades—and some plant breeding improvements—to the release of the honeynut, a lovechild of the butternut and buttercup squash.
The goal was to select for a smaller, more manageable squash with a more intriguing appearance, one that was also sweeter than a butternut.
HISTORY OF THE HONEYNUT
This idea started in the 1980s with a Cornell University professor named Richard Robinson, who crossed a honeynut with a buttercup looking for a tastier version. In 2006 another professor and plant breeder from Cornell, Michael Mazourek, decided to continue his work on breeding the perfect squash in collaboration with Dan Barber, the chef and co-owner of Blue Hill restaurant at Stone Barns Farm, a research and educational farm in New York’s Hudson Valley.
After multiple years and seed selection from cross-pollination, the prized honeynut was born. In 2015 the seeds were available to purchase commercially. If you thought butternut was sweet and tasty and have yet to try a honeynut, you are about to have your mind blown. They are dark beige with green mottling, weigh about 1 to 1.5 pounds and are much sweeter than a butternut. Honeynut flesh is dense with a creamy consistency and a fine texture. They have a well-rounded, rich and complex flavor with malty, nutty undertones.
Honeynut also fill the need for a more personal-sized, flavorful squash. Shoppers are concerned with wasting food, and farmers are happy to have options besides giant squash that are a hard sell to those types of customers. If you want to find the honeynut squash, you must locate them at the farmers market; I have yet to see them available in mainstream grocery stores. I have been growing honeynut for many years at Serendipity Farms, where it’s a favorite among customers and the first winter squash to sell out alongside delicata—another deliciously sweet winter squash with a chewy edible skin.
Like all winter squash, honeynuts are available in the fall and store until late winter—earlier than their parent butternut. They can start to lose their water content when they are past their prime, so look for firm, heavy squash with no blemishes or wrinkles.
Row 7 Seed Company, directed by chef Barber, grows mainly for flavor rather than for high yields, germination rates and crop uniformity. Row 7 also does not patent their varieties, allowing future plant breeders to improve on the existing varieties.
They now offer an improvement to the honeynut called the 898 squash, which is an even smaller version, measuring only 4 to 6 inches and fitting in the palm of your hand. The 898 squash was also bred to improve flavor further and address the short shelf life that the honeynut has.
PREPARING HONEYNUT
Both the honeynut and 898 are best prepared by cutting them in half, coating the flesh with a neutral oil and roasting. Roasting caramelizes the flesh, bringing out the best flavor. For a nutritious breakfast I often eat a honeynut with soft-boiled ramen egg on top.
There is no need for brown sugar or maple syrup; these squash are sweet enough on their own. Since they are personal size, I love using them as a side dish: After they are cooked, I fill them with a mixture of wild rice, cooked crimini mushrooms, toasted walnuts, fresh herbs like thyme and sage, and dried cherries or cranberries.
Bitter greens go well with sweet squash; try a radicchio-and-kalebased salad with roasted chunks of honeynut on top, plus goat cheese and toasted pecans and some pomegranate seeds with a nice olive oil and Champagne vinaigrette.
Kelsey Perusse and Geoff Palla bring a collective mega ton of experience around cultivating growth in young minds and organic plants alike.
CULTIVATING HONEYNUT (AND KIDS’ CONNECTION TO THEIR FOOD)
Live Oak School District in Santa Cruz is growing its own winter squash, among other crops, at the old baseball field at 799 Paget Avenue adjacent to the Del Mar High School campus.
Geoff Palla, former garden manager and senior teacher at the famous Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley for 13 years, has been hired as the school farmer and is cultivating one acre for the students thanks to funding from the Child Nutrition Program.
Currently, broccoli, carrots and “three sisters” plantings of corn, beans and squash are being grown, as well as several types of winter squash that the school plans to incorporate into its from-scratch school lunches.
Winter squash varieties include honeynut and butternut, pink banana, delicata, red kuri and musquée di provence.
The school district’s lunch program, run by Food Service Director Kelsey Perusse, also purchases squash, among other items, from the Santa Cruz Community Farmers Market, which holds a market every Sunday just a few blocks away from the school.
It’s a win-win situation for both the kids and the farmers.
Currently there is a Food Lab program where kids in fifth through 12th grades help cook healthy breakfast items and lunch through an elective class for high-school students and an after-school elective for elementary schoolers.
Winter squash gets incorporated in various ways along the lunch line, including housemade red kuri squash biscuits, roasted delicata squash and butternut squash lasagna.
RESTAURANT AWARD WINNER
Perusse says one of the goals is to let kids experience vegetables in different ways, including being the star of the main dish, adding that when kids see produce grown they eat it more often, because they get a deeper connection to it.
The Food Lab and farm programs are funded under Nutrition Services, and have received three rounds of funding to be better equipped to cook from scratch. Live Oak School District has big dreams for this program and is looking to fund-raise to leverage its benefit with more in-depth farm-to-school programming experiences like building more farm infrastructure, developing curriculum and hiring a farm educator to teach kids during the school year on the farm as well as run a farm summer camp in 2026. On Oct. 25, the school will host a Pumpkin and Pancake donation-based event from 9am to noon that is family focused and free for kids at 799 Paget Ave., Santa Cruz. Donations will help fund the program’s big plans for kids to connect to their food.
To donate or otherwise join this endeavor, check out liveoaksdnutrition on Instagram.
Here’s hoping that with the help of the Food Lab, kids will be more familiar with winter squash and its health benefits so that eating one for breakfast won’t seem as weird as it did when I was in college.
Jamie Collins owns and operates Serendipity Farms, and has been growing organic produce in five microclimates since 2001. She loves designing a stunning edible display of seasonal fruits and vegetables at farmers markets.
Pumpkin-Yogurt Muffins
Courtesy of Scott Felgner, Live Oak Program chef
These tender muffins adapt easily to different varieties of winter squash, while the addition of vanilla yogurt lends a hint of tang and sweetness. To make the recipe your own you can easily substitute plain Greek yogurt or add ingredients like cooked bacon (crumbled) or chopped walnuts.. Note that you’ll need a baking scale to measure the flour.
½ pound winter squash such as sugar pumpkin, honeynut, or butternut, halved, seeds and any fibrous bits removed
6¼ ounces whole-wheat flour
57/8 ounces all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ ounce ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
4½ ounces unsalted butter
42/3 ounces sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup liquid egg such as Egg Beaters
2/3 cup whole milk
2/3 cup whole -fat vanilla yogurt (Felgner uses Straus Family Creamery)
Preheat oven to 400°F. Place squash in a baking dish filled with ½ inch of water, and cover. Cook until flesh is soft when pierced with tip of a paring knife.
Scoop out squash flesh and purée in blender or food processor. Cool. Squash can be prepared up to 1 day ahead.
For the muffins, preheat oven to 350°F. Grease muffin pan, then add liners.
In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter, and set aside in warm place so it stays liquid.
In a large mixing bowl, combine flours, baking powder, baking soda, spices and salt.
In a separate bowl, whisk butter, sugar and vanilla until combined.
Whisk in eggs, then add milk, yogurt and squash purée. Add dry ingredients and whisk to combine. Pour batter into muffin tin.
Bake for 15 minutes, rotate pan, and bake for another 15 minutes, or until inserted toothpick comes out clean. Makes 12. ediblemontereybay.com
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Fresh Artichokes, California Fig Balsamic Vinegar and Artichoke Seasoning
Companion celebrates 20 years with a new marketplace and reaffirmed fundamentals
BY AMBER TURPIN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
KELLY ROSE EVANS
Companion Bakeshop hardly needs any introduction. This beloved Santa Cruz business represents a pioneer in the community for organic treats, artisan bread and a level of quality that locals and visitors have all come to trust.
This year marks 20 since Companion got its start at area farmers markets, and 15 for its flagship Companion
Bakeshop location, providing an opportunity to reflect on how things have evolved.
Long before everyone and their mother developed a pandemic sourdough baking hobby, owner and baker Erin Lampel was crafting loaves. And what really planted the seed of Companion was the apprenticeship program at UC Santa Cruz’s Farm & Garden (also known as the Center for Agroecology).
Lampel explains that the ethos that was born in that program still guides Companion’s core philosophy.
“My time there really shaped my interest in sustainable food systems [and] I thought I would go into farming,” she says, noting her degree from Cal Poly is in Fruit Science and Agriculture, “but I started baking.”
She designed a business plan to use local ingredients whenever possible, make connections with local farms and producers and generally immerse herself in the local food scene.
“I wanted so badly to have a farm and a bakery, but soon realized that I wouldn’t have time for both,” she says, “but I’m really proud of the way we have held… thoughtful sourcing as our number one goal.”
Companion Bakery’s organic evolution now features a Westside retail pantry, grab-and-go sandwiches on the soughtafter sourdough that have been a farmers market bestseller since owner-operator Erin Lampel (below right) started the project.
That remains apparent, as it has since the start. In the early days of the shop, Lampel was slammed, even with a much smaller roster of offerings: those wildly popular buckwheat scones, the simple picnic bread loaf, and—oh yes—the pies, from strawberry-rhubarb to lemon-buttermilk to sticky walnut.
She was also busy working with Pie Ranch up the coast, providing pies for their roadside farmstand, as well as baking sourdough loaves for the Life Earth Farm CSA, a very early supporter of her products.
And as the shop got busier, she added items like galettes (see recipe below), cookies and tea cakes, all of which have also become what locals consider Companion classics.
There were certainly bumps along steep learning curves, including day one of the first store opening. (The Aptos location on Soquel Drive debuted in late 2018.)
Lampel et al worked overnight to get the shop ready, then encountered a serpentine line and sold out so early she decided to bake all the scones and cookies that she had prepared for days following. Oh, and they forgot to stock plates or forks or, she recalls, “really anything for people to sit down and enjoy food.”
“So we had three of us juggling a line of people with no plates—it was comical!” she says. “I think we asked a customer in line to run to the store for us to get some paper plates!”
Then came what she calls “the sinking realization we had to get up the next day and do it again.”
“It felt overwhelming and impossible!” she says, noting there was about $200 in the bank. “There was a bit of pressure there, but we were fueled by the excitement of it all and feeling like ‘Wow, we actually might be able to pull this off!’”
Since that first week there have been many episodes that Lampel can pull up, from the day an elderly customer got locked inside the bathroom—“She was happy she already bought her scone!”—to the time 2-year-old Quinn Rye (Lampel’s son) was found under a table eating crumbs and a customer came up to the counter to report a loose baby.
“The list of the moments that have made us laugh and kept us humble goes on and on,” she adds.
New products came online—slowly at the beginning, mostly due to limited kitchen square footage and making sure everything could be made within a very specific time frame. But they got some systems down, learned how to work with bulk batches, and adapted recipes for growth, adding croissants and new bread varieties.
“Decisions on growing our offerings came down to space, interest and excitement in a product, and customer feedback,” Lampel says. “I honestly never thought about the cost of ingredients… believe it or not, we just jumped right in and figured it out.”
And she is the first person to proclaim that “figuring it out” was a team effort—it turns out Companion is aptly named. Lampel credits community and staff as integral to their sustained success.
“I have learned that making real connections in the community and finding businesses where we can create partnerships is the key to sustaining a small business,” she says.
The key partnership: employees who have left their mark.
“The success of Companion is… the team of employees— learning how to be a leader [who] listens and works alongside my team has been my biggest success and by far,” she says. “I'm super thankful for all the wonderful people who have come our way!”
One of those co-workers is Jennifer Eckert Bernau. And while she is technically a recent hire, she is far from new to the cause.
She and Lampel have been friends since the early days up at the UCSC apprenticeship program, raising kids together and hosting delicious holiday cookie swaps. In fact, Eckert Bernau was one of the original bakers with Lampel when she started renting commercial kitchen space from Feel Good Foods, and the two ran the farmers market.
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“[Just] a simple setup of a table, tablecloth, hand-painted sign and the amazing sourdough bread that is still much loved in Santa Cruz!” Eckert Bernau says.
When Eckert Bernau was at a career crossroads last summer, she dove right into the new Market & Community Outreach role at Companion, and has a lot of ideas for the future, overseeing the new mercantile section of the recently revamped café space on the Westside.
It’s a sweet, curated assortment of goodies, gifts, cookbooks and picnic items that Eckert Bernau is excited to grow, including more programming and events, like some fun book signings with regional and national cookbook authors.
As for Lampel’s thoughts on what’s ahead, she reports she’s ready to come back to basics.
“We are really looking forward to honing in on what we do best and getting back to our original model of a tight-knit small business,” she says. “I see growth happening in new ways that don’t mean new buildings or cafés, but growth within our company to be the best we can be at the size we are at. I’m looking forward to focusing on the people, farms, businesses and community that have brought us success.”
She pauses for a beat.
“It’s sort of a feeling of putting the growth to rest and getting settled back into our little corner,” Lampel says. “A different kind of growth, but one that I feel will lead us to success in our future.”
Amber Turpin is a food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains. A regular contributor to 7x7, she is also a field coordinator for the Slow Wine Guide USA and story editor for Edible Silicon Valley
Savory Autumn Gallettes
Courtesy Erin Lampel, owner, Companion Bakeshop, Santa Cruz
This galette recipe is super adaptable to whatever seasonal produce you have on hand. In the summertime, Lampel likes to use slices of fresh Early Girl tomatoes over the onion filling before baking, but any fall veggies work just as well here. If you happen to have some leftover roasted butternut or a bunch of chard or kale, you’ll be good to go. Keep this recipe for future seasons, to swap out ingredients as markets, farms and gardens inspire.
For Galette Dough:
2½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (8 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cubed
6–10 tablespoons cold water
Measure the water into a small container. Place water in the freezer while you scale the rest of your ingredients, or for about 5–10 minutes.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the butter cubes and toss to coat. Working quickly, use the palms of your hands to flatten butter cubes into large flakes.
Once the butter is flaked, remove water from the freezer. Begin adding the water to the dough, starting with half of the water. Toss with hands or a fork to incorporate. From here slowly add the water, a tablespoon at a time (not to exceed 10 tablespoons) picking up dry patches of flour as you go.
Once the dough can roughly hold shape, begin gently kneading to incorporate the dry bits of flour into the hydrated dough. The dough is done when there is some uniformity in it. Streaks of butter should remain but there should be no patches of the dough that are so dry that they are unable to conform to the main mass of dough.
Divide dough into 4 portions, flatten each into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
On a floured surface, roll each disk of dough into a round circle, about 6–8 inches across. The dough should be 1/8 to ¼ of an inch thick.
Place the rounds on the prepared baking sheets and set in the refrigerator until ready to fill and bake.
Filling and Finishing:
1 medium yellow onion, sliced 2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup creme fraiche
2 cups cooked fall vegetables (sautéed kale, wild mushrooms, roasted winter squash slices or rings, etc.)
Salt Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Prepare 1 or 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
In a mixing bowl, toss the onion slices with the olive oil and season with salt. Spread onto a baking sheet and roast in the preheated oven until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cool completely.
In the mixing bowl, combine the cooled onion with the creme fraiche, salt and pepper to taste.
Remove galette dough rounds from the refrigerator. Place about 2 tablespoons of the onion mixture in the center of each.
Add ½ cup of the cooked vegetables on top of the onion mix in the center of each circle of dough.
Make folded edges around the galette topping to contain but not completely cover the filling.
Brush the dough edges with heavy cream or egg wash and bake in the preheated oven until golden, 20–30 minutes. Makes 4.
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SANTA CRUZ COUNTY | FALL 2025
If you’ve lived here in the Monterey Bay region for any length of time, you might have your own indicator of the fall season approaching. Perhaps it’s the first apples appearing at the farmers markets, or news of this year’s wine grape harvest. For me, it is the super subtle, golden-hued shift in light, paired with a breeze that’s almost like a whisper in my ear, reminding
Tuesday
Felton Farmers Market
1:30−5:30pm • May through October 120 Russell Ave. 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org
El Mercado
2−6pm • April through October Crestview Drive and Madison Street Watsonville 831.726.4257 • pvhealthtrust.org
Wednesday
Downtown Santa Cruz Farmers Market
1pm-5pm • Year-round Lincoln and Cedar Streets • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org
Friday
me to savor the summertime, and get ready for autumn. No matter how you anticipate the changing seasons, our local bounty will provide plenty of inspiration to truly appreciate each shift…in temperature and in flavor.
— Amber S. Turpin
Watsonville Certified Farmers Market
2–7pm • Year-round Watsonville City Plaza, Peck & Main Streets 831.588.7366 facebook.com/watsonvillefarmersmarket
Mountain Farmers’ Market
2:30-6:30pm • May to October 23845 Summit Rd, Los Gatos mountainmarket2024@gmail.com www.instagram.com/mountain_market
Legume lessons from grandma, simmered with intention
STORY BY ANALUISA BÉJAR PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA
The thread that connects cooking and wisdom is short.
In my Mexican homeland, when you pull on that thread, it comes out in dichos.
That’s Spanish for “sayings,” little bites of knowledge, which carry mini-doctrines, often with a touch of humor, and are easy to digest and can resonate across generations.
Maybe the grandkids will quote yours when the occasion is right. I often use a few from my abuelita, including “El que nace para tamal del cielo le caen las hojas.”
Taken literally, it means, “If you are born to be a tamale, leaf wrappers will fall from heaven.”
The insight boiled in: When you are doing something you are meant to do, things have a way of dropping into place.
Beans, like dichos, enjoy a lot of diversity, history and Mexican heritage. They were among the first plants to be domesticated in North and South America.
Spanish chroniclers detail how the bean plant was consumed in its entirety, including the root, flowers and fresh pods, while the seeds—both fresh and dried—were cooked whole or finely ground.
Throughout Mexico’s history, even as influences arrived from the rest of the world, beans have retained their character and remained a staple of every household and meal, regardless of region or status.
That’s partly because they are rich in fiber, protein and minerals. And because they are delicious.
Here are three dichos that apply when it comes to understanding—and preparing—incredible beans.
BUEN RECAUDO HACE COCINA.
Literal translation: Good ingredients make good cooking. Figurative lesson: It’s helpful to start a project with great people, materials and ideas.
Beans thrive from deserts to tropical jungles. Species can derive their names from their color or size, such as negros (black), bayos (cream), ayocote (large) or pinto (variegated).
They may also be named after their place of origin—for example, peruanos—or the season in which they bloom, such as flor de mayo.
Although higher yield and disease resistance generally dictate which varieties are most widely available, organic heirloom beans have seen a resurgence in the last few decades.
Steve Sando, founder of Rancho Gordo gourmet grocers, has embarked on an amazing labor-of-love crusade to rescue and promote them.
He and many other dedicated growers are collecting seeds from small towns in Mexico, providing the opportunity to experience the diverse qualities and nuances of these colorful high-protein seeds.
They’re worth seeking out.
The Rancho Gordo beans pictured include Mayocoba (top left), heirloom pinto (center), Vaquero (bottom right) and Christmas lima (top right); pair the others with their photo profiles at ranchogordo.com.
Only the pot knows what’s simmering in its broth.
DEL PLATO A LA BOCA, SE CAE LA SOPA.
Literal translation: Soup may spill on its way from plate to mouth. Figurative lesson: Not everything turns out as expected.
The nice thing about beans is that they’re relatively easy. But there are some guidelines to keep in mind—including sorting out bad beans and stirring mindfully to avoid burnt and/or uneven results—and ways to adapt preparation as it’s happening to improve the flavor of the ultimate result.
The simple starting point for a great batch can be the frijoles de la olla approach—also known as parados, or “standing,” aka ready to go—in a pot.
Brothy and neutral, they are easy to freeze and open any number of bean-based culinary journeys.
Pick out any debris such as twigs or pebbles or broken beans. Soaking is not necessary unless it is an older crop. If you don’t have a clay pot, any heavy pot large enough to hold them comfortably will do.
Flavor can come from epazote, bay or avocado leaves added to start or as a finish.
Onion, garlic, oregano or cumin enhance the flavor, depending on the region. To play the European card, add onion with a couple of cloves, carrots and a celery stick as well.
There are no set rules. Start with the simplest flavors and build from that, keeping in mind that lighter-colored varieties have milder flavors.
If it is a flavorful and recently harvested seed, simply cook in water, using 6–8 cups of water per cup of beans. Bring up to a healthy boil, then simmer until soft. That’s when you add salt. Be generous.
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SOLO LA OLLA SABE LOS HERVORES DE SU CALDO.
Literal translation: Only the pot knows what’s simmering in its broth. Figurative lesson: A person’s experience is personal and unique; we can always be more empathic.
To finish a batch of beans, this is the family trick that rounds up flavor with a smoky hint: Fry a slice of onion until it is caramel brown in a few tablespoons of a neutral vegetable oil or even lard if you’re feeling brave. Stir into the beans.
Serve with cilantro, tomato, onion, queso fresco or goat cheese, cream, fried chorizo, sliced chiles, lime…anything goes.
From the frijoles de la olla base you can purée, refry, strain, scramble, turn it into soup, sauce, or just scoop up with a folded tortilla.
The list of regional specialties is endless.
In Yucatan, where black beans rule, Fridays traditionally are laundry days and there is always a large pot of beans simmering with pork ribs and aromatics for frijol con puerco, to be served with radish, onion, oregano, cilantro and habanero. A complete meal that practically cooks itself.
Northern states prefer lighter beans—combined with beer, chorizo and chile they become borrachos, or rancheros.
So much to explore, but that would violate a different dicho: Al caramelo y al asunto, a darles punto.
Literal translation: Cook caramel to the right point.
Figurative lesson: Know when caramel, and the story, are done.
Analuisa Béjar loves exploring flavor as the chef at her Sunny Bakery Cafe in Carmel Valley. A native of Mexico City, she’s gone on to become an awardwinning writer, editor, food critic, recipe developer and culinary teacher.
Fall Bean Salad
This salad combines all the goodness of the fall harvest. I like to use different types of beans for a full color effect, but any variety will do. Chayote and delicata squashes can be easily found at most supermarkets.
Dressing:
1 small ancho chile
1 tablespoon honey
¼ cup lime juice
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ cup olive oil
Salt
Salad:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 chayote squash, seeded, cut into fine dice
1 small delicata squash, cut into dice
2 cups cooked beans, drained
1 radish, thinly sliced
½ red bell pepper, finely diced
½ orange bell pepper, finely diced
½ cup cherr y tomatoes, cut into quar ters
¼ cup cilantro, cut into fine strips
1 tablespoon chopped pumpkin seeds
Salt
Dressing:
Seed, devein and lightly toast chile on a griddle. Chop finely; measure 2 tablespoons and reserve the rest for another use.
Combine the chopped chile with remaining ingredients; season.
Salad:
Sauté the chayote and delicata squash with the olive oil in a pan over medium heat until barely cooked; season with salt.
Combine in a bowl with the remaining ingredients and allow to marinate for 10 minutes before serving.
Serves 4.
Tepoztlán-Style Bean Soup
Tepoztlán is a beautiful town near Mexico City where my family spent most of our weekends. This traditional favorite dish is surprisingly light because of its tomato base. Serve all the accompaniments separately for everybody to dress up to taste; you can also offer chorizo, cilantro, even feta would work nicely. I like to use pinto or bayo beans to get the full color effect thanks to the brick-red guajillo peppers. If you thin it with a little stock, this soup can be a great sauce for fish or chiles rellenos.
4 tablespoons light olive oil
½ white onion, roughly chopped
1 small clove garlic, crushed
2 guajillo or New Mexico dried chiles, seeds, veins and stems removed
4 large plum tomatoes, stem removed, cut into quarters
In a large heavy-bottom pot, warm the oil, add the onion and garlic, sauté for 2 minutes.
Add the chiles and stir while cooking, taking care not to brown them. Mix in the tomatoes and salt; cook everything over medium-high heat while stirring occasionally for 5 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft.
Pour in the cooked beans and sauté for another minute.
Carefully purée mixture in a blender until smooth. Return to the pot and season to taste with salt. Adjust consistency, if necessary, with water or stock. Simmer for a few minutes and serve topped with any garnishes from list. Serves 6.
Intelligent Ingredients
My abuelita would blurt out dichos with a completely serious expression—a glimpse of her dark sense of humor—while offering helpful perspective, and often a knowing conclusion to any conversation.
Here are some of her (and now my) favorites:
Al mejor cocinero se le queman los frijoles.
Even the best cook burns beans. (Errors are inevitable, we just have to keep going.)
A darle la vuelta a la tortilla.
Turn the tortilla over. (It’s time to move on.)
El comal le dijo a la olla que tiznada estás
The griddle told the pot, “Look how sooty you are.” (Take a good look at ourselves before judging others.) Another iteration of this would be, “El burro hablando de orejas.” (The donkey’s talking about big ears.)
Las cuentas claras y el chocolate espeso.
Clear accounts and thick chocolate. (Honesty in business and friendship is important.)
No hay caldo que no se enfríe.
There is no broth that does not get cold. (Everything passes; time always tells.)
Imposible empezar a comer por la segunda cucharada.
You can’t start eating from a second spoon. (Take projects or situations one step at a time.)
En todos lados se cuecen habas.
Fava beans are cooked everywhere. (Nothing is perfect, it’s part of the human condition, and problems and inconveniences will be met, regardless of circumstances.)
—Analuisa Béjar
IN THE VINEYARD
Farming Legends
The Pisoni family writes a new chapter of Santa Lucia wine lore
BY LAURA NESS
Aromas of sun-baked lavender, California sagebrush and buckwheat waft in the stiffening morning breeze as I follow special projects manager Jazmin Lopez and winegrower Mark Pisoni into the two-acre insectary smack in the middle of Pisoni Vineyard.
The views of the Salinas Valley below are framed by manicured vine rows, which reveal evidence of recent leaf-thinning to expose the growing grape bunches to sunlight.
At the eastern edge of the Chardonnay block, this wildish garden is abuzz with activity.
I’ve never seen anything like it in a vineyard. For the Pisoni family, it represents another bold step in their quest to grow the very best grapes possible.
“Our name is on every bottle, and our reputation, too,” Pisoni says. “This is our land, our livelihood, our craft and our responsibility.”
Planted by Lopez and the Pisoni vineyard team in 2018, the insectary provides habitat for beneficial bugs and also gives honeybees a year-round floral feast.
Lopez points out ceanothus, which blooms profusely in springtime—“Bees love its small blue flowers,” she says—and another spring bloomer, black sage, which produces a beautiful, delicate honey.
Each has its season, and purpose.
The native plants also attract pollinators like hummingbirds, parasitic wasps that feast on mealybugs, hoverflies that look like bees and discourage aphids, and ladybugs that feed on mites. The foliage also provides nesting materials for threatened bird species.
The Pisoni vineyards might seem like they’ve been there for eons, but they help define an AVA that’s only a couple of decades old.
Gary Pisoni, way back in the day, before he had the juice to tell partner producers: “I have three rules to make wine here. You have to 1) be my friend, 2) make good wine, and 3) pay the bills!”
Beaming with the joy of a child beholding a butterfly for the first time, Pisoni explains the overall purpose of the plot is to help grow the best possible wine, sustainably and organically. He’s a stalwart steward of the land and its labor force, human and otherwise.
Perhaps the greatest pollinator of all in these parts, though, is Mark’s father, the legendary Gary Pisoni, a third-generation Salinas Valley vegetable farmer who as a college student became fascinated by the great wines of the Old World.
Returning home from a post-college visit to Europe in 1982, Gary told his father he was planting vines. His word choice has become foundational lore for the Santa Lucia Highlands that the Pisonis helped make famous: “Dad, have you ever heard of a $250 lettuce tasting?”
Unbeknownst to Gary at the time, his vision to plant vines would create an ecosystem upon which his generation and subsequent generations have grown to depend.
Now that his sons, Mark and Jeff— winegrower and winemaker, respectively—are firmly in charge, Gary Pisoni admits he had no inkling of the impact his
vine adventure would have on his family, kids or the region.
“I was following my dream in a place that I thought would make amazing wine,” he says, noting there were only a few vineyards in the area circa 1982. “It seemed like no one else believed this could work!”
The Pisoni boys had a front row seat to all the excitement.
“I always thought it was so exciting,” Jeff says. “[My father] has amazing energy! I think boys want to follow what their dad does, and I was intrigued and enchanted by all that. People traveled from all over to a largely undiscovered area, just to meet him. I was a little in awe.”
Some of those people were grape buyers, others were winemakers and still others were wine writers, who began to transmit the tale that Gary was so adept at spinning.
“Remember,” Jeff says, “he was a psychology major.”
Jeff’s first internship, at Bernardus, came courtesy of his mom Roseann’s connections. “My favorite thing was filling and racking barrels in the cellar,” says Jeff. “It was very neat, like a labyrinth. I loved
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working in the cool dark cellar. It was a very romantic side of wine, hanging out with barrels all day. I loved it!”
Today Jeff lives with his winemaker wife, Bibiana González Rave, and their two young sons in Santa Rosa, near the Pisoni winery facility, and he still loves hanging out with barrels in the cellar, where he crafts the wines under the Lucia, Lucy and Pisoni labels.
Like his dad, Mark Pisoni worked the fields as a kid but didn’t intend to be a farmer for life. After graduating from UC Davis in 1999, intent on research, he pursued his master’s at Cornell, envisioning an academic career where he would teach at the college level. But the ag life, and his grandfather’s failing health, called him back to the farm.
Says Gary, “I am thrilled to work with my two sons as they continue to build on what I started. One was naturally interested in farming, the other in wine. It worked out perfectly!”
Mark and Jeff inherited their father’s warmth, charm and enthusiasm, while tempering his legendary gregariousness
with their mother’s focused calm. Both are engaging and passionate about their life’s work, and collaborate on all decisions from farming to barrel selection.
“We are all-organic here, and always have been,” Mark explains. “Farming this way takes more work—we touch each and every one of the vines at least 10 times throughout the growing season.”
Avoiding chemicals is paramount— with vegetables as well as grapes—so he’s using tools like pheromone traps to control mealybugs.
“I’m a happy guinea pig,” Mark says. “I’m willing to trial anything that can safely raise quality.”
In other words, premium grapes require fastidious attention, and it helps to get engaged from a young age.
“As kids, we would wake up early and help Dad in the barn where he kept the wine,” Jeff says. “He instilled in me early on how delicate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are.”
Through Bernardus and other various internships, Jeff learned to treat each barrel as a separate lot and fermentation,
Rare Pairing
From left, Jeff, Gary and Mark Pisoni pause before the barn honoring their family’s row-cropper heritage. Cue one of Gary’s favorite refrains here: “Mark grows the grapes, Jeff makes the wine, and I drink for a living!”
How terroir-ific pioneers made partnership a superpower
Back in the day, Gary Pisoni would drive around the Santa Lucia Highlands and see open pieces of land, always wondering what the wine from that site would taste like.
This led to a collaboration with Gary Franscioni.
Over a glass or two—or possibly three—of Pinot Noir at the Pisoni Vineyard, the two Garys discussed the current and future landscape of SLH, and made a handshake agreement to plant what would become known as Garys’ Vineyard.
“Our partnership then and now is built on growing the highest wine grape quality—and trust,” Franscioni says.
The two families have parlayed their joint passion to mutual benefit, and a partnership now more than a quarter century—and two generations—in, as Gary Franscioni’s son Adam notes.
“Maintaining a relationship over that span—especially through the ups and downs of the wine industry—really speaks to the quality of the people they are and the strength of the relationship we’ve built,” says Adam, vineyard manager at ROAR, the Franscioni family's label. “They are incredibly dedicated to farming high-quality fruit and producing exceptional wines.”
Adam’s brother Nick, ROAR’s winery manager, views a concern often raised about both families making wine from the same vineyards—that they’re competing against themselves—as an opportunity.
“While our styles are different, I only see the advantages of competing’ against a high-quality producer like them,” says Nick. “They push us to make better wine and ultimately help raise the bar for what is possible in our appellation.”
—Laura Ness
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“I think my family’s history and farming legacy are both really cool.”
tracking the subtle variations in handling that impact wine quality.
Their winemaking facility is a completely practical and customized concrete building with multiple barrel rooms and temperature control, all driven by a desire for perfection.
“I meet regularly with the family regarding tanks, barrels and important winemaking decisions,” says Jeff. “It might be more expensive and time-consuming, but it’s all in the details.”
Mark lives with his wife, Quinn, and their two kids, in the Gonzales farmhouse previously occupied for 50 years by his great-uncle. They are surrounded by row crops, and he still farms 500 acres of romaine, broccoli and cauliflower, like his grandfather Eddie and his grandmother Jane—who in her 90s still signs all the paychecks—did before him.
This earth is sacred. The flavor of the asparagus the family once grew in abundance here is still vivid in my mind. Fortunately, Mark Pisoni’s broccoli is still legendary. But not as legendary as his grapes, which remain in demand.
Quinn, who met Mark at UC Davis where she studied crop science, says that living on a farm is like a shopkeeper living above their store.
“It’s awesome that our kids are growing up with a true understanding of what their dad does and how hard he and everyone on the ranch works,” she says.
Working summers on the ranch is giving both Avery (14) and Davis (16) a closer look at what it means to devote one’s life to agriculture.
Davis, who is currently helping the ir-
rigation team on the row crops, sounds a bit like his father and uncle.
“Absolutely, I have always wanted to continue the family farming legacy,” he says. “I feel incredibly fortunate to be a part of something like this. I think my family’s history and farming legacy are both really cool.”
Avery, a gymnast, doesn’t seem quite so keen. She works in the vineyards, doing the nitty gritty of de-leafing and wire adjustment.
“I am learning how hard people have to work so that we can produce food to feed other people,” she says. “It is a very long process with lots of work to be able to grow vegetables and make wine.”
Asked if she would consider a career in farming, she replies “No.”
It’s not for everyone. But the family tradition perseveres across decades nonetheless. Grandpa Gary provides perspective.
“I’m so proud of how my sons have taken our vineyard and winery to such a higher level than I ever could have imagined,” he says.
That so many great producers seek out this fruit, including Kosta Browne, Testarossa, Peter Michael, Furthermore, Siduri, Saxon Brown and Morgan, works as a testament to the label’s enduring appeal.
But Gary finds his peak satisfaction with a different metric.
“I’m especially proud of how our wines have been able to make so many people happy,” he says.
Laura Ness is an award-winning journalist who writes about wine, food and travel for a variety of publications on the Central Coast and beyond.
IN THE FIELD
EATS OF EDEN
Traversing the lands, characters and foods that fed John Steinbeck’s soul
Story by Laura M. Holson
Lead photo by Kodiak Greenwood
Additional photos by Mark C. Anderson
“The real feeling of Steinbeck’s work is inland, among the ranches and farms of the Salinas Valley.”
About fifteen miles below Monterey, on the wild coast, the Torres family had their farm, a few sloping acres above a cliff that dropped to the brown reefs and to the hissing white waters of the ocean.
It was a foggy Friday in June and my friend Marlene was reading aloud the opening paragraph of “Flight,” John Steinbeck’s 1938 short story about a boy named Pepé Torres who was forced to flee his family’s farm after killing a man.
I had read the story in high school and was captivated by the coming-of-age parable and a boyhood doomed. So Marlene and I drove down Highway 1 toward Big Sur to see if we could find the plot of land where the fictional Torres family might have lived.
I mapped out our route on GPS, but about five miles into our trek, we lost cell service and found ourselves, like Pepé, guided only by the outline of the coast.
Steinbeck’s wild coast still exist? Would the sloping acres and ancient redwoods he so vividly described in “Flight” reveal themselves? Or was Steinbeck’s imaginative telling all that survived?
We approached Notleys Landing, a spit of land at the mouth of the Palo Colorado Canyon. And there, a grassy bluff appeared that rolled down to the sea before dropping sharply and slipping into a cove of frothy waves.
I turned to Marlene with delight and said, “I think we found it.”
After our visit to Big Sur, Marlene and I decided to make our way to Kathy’s Little Kitchen in Carmel Valley, a one-room storefront that serves up plates of carne asada, chile rellenos and the occasional menudo.
It is the kind of unfussy kitchen that would have thrived 100 years ago and that Steinbeck or his characters might have frequented.
Notleys Landing nestles into rugged coast that channels a Steinbeck thought from The Winter of Our Discontent:
“To be alive at all is to have scars.”
On our left were granite mountains towering over grassy fields thick with thistles and tufts of white yarrow. We drove past Carmel Highlands and crossed the Garrapata Creek Bridge, which was built in 1931 at about the same time Steinbeck wrote Tortilla Flat , a novel about men on the fringe of society in postWorld War I Monterey.
In Oldtown Salinas, murals like this one adjacent to The Steinbeck Center honor storied local history.
As we inched our way south, I had to wonder: Did
Patrons order at the register from a board above the kitchen. When we were there, a line of locals snaked out the door—a painter, a couple of tree trimmers and a man in a cowboy hat and dirt-caked boots.
I ordered two carnitas tacos. The meat was crisp and fragrant, and wrapped in a pillowy tortilla. It was inexpensive and fast, perfect for journeymen on the go.
Few authors have captured the struggles of California’s working class as well as Steinbeck. But as much as Steinbeck found meaning in the lives of lonely drifters and immigrants, he did so, too, in the land. As much as anything, Steinbeck wrote about places that continue to make up so much of the agricultural community of the Salinas Valley.
SIMPLY GOOD FOOD
From the fields along Highway 68— where migrant laborers crouch over rows of lettuce—to the docks along Monterey, his imagery transcends the descriptions of the food people ate, illustrating their domestic life, camaraderie, emotional hunger and social status.
The Pacific Biological Laboratories building at 800 Cannery Row served as the workshop of marine biologist Ed Ricketts, who inspired the character Doc in Cannery Row. Today it remains perhaps the most famous Steinbeck landmark and hosts limited tours.
But there are less renowned—and more accessible—places to encounter reminders of his presence.
At Trotter Galleries on Forest Avenue, across from Pacific Grove’s City Hall, there is currently a collection of photographs, magazine clippings and other items that celebrate Steinbeck’s life and work.
A black Royal portable typewriter said to have belonged to the author is prominently
displayed. There, too, is an original door from his cottage, the paint faded and chipped, and a small felt-covered writing desk. Glass cases are filled with notes written by Steinbeck and his third wife, Elaine, who played a significant role in protecting his legacy.
There is a stretch of rolling hills and farmland on Highway 68 between Monterey and Salinas that reflects some of Steinbeck’s most celebrated works.
“The coastline is gorgeous,” says Peter Van Coutren, the archivist at the Martha Heasley Cox Center for Steinbeck Studies at San Jose State University. “But the real feeling of Steinbeck’s work is inland, among the ranches and farms of the Salinas Valley.”
In The Pastures of Heaven, a collection of interwoven stories set in a rural valley, a rancher threw a barbecue for 50 guests who dined on grilled steaks and chicken served with strong beer.
Clearly, this rancher had money. Other Pastures of Heaven characters did not. Two
On previous page, Kathy’s Little Kitchen does a rustic breakfast, Doc Ricketts’ Pacific Biological Laboratories and the Salinas Valley all evoke a treasured son’s perspective. At his humble Salinas grave, Steinbeck pilgrims leave stones, cards, coins, keys and bundled notes that often quote his words, including, “All plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless.”
penniless sisters sold homemade tortillas and enchiladas in their home after their father died. But their endeavor ended in heartache. The duo earned little money, and turned to prostitution.
The Toro Place Cafe along Highway 68 reminded me of a place Steinbeck might have written about. It was crowded with pickup trucks when Marlene and I drove by on our way to Salinas.
The restaurant opens at 6:30am, in time for the early morning farm crews looking for hearty breakfasts of eggs, biscuits and mugs of black coffee. By early afternoon the farmers are mostly gone and replaced with commuters and tourists who stop for lunch.
Workers still pick crops and load boxes onto trucks in the fields nearby. Steinbeck explored corporate greed and exploitation of migrant workers in much of his writing about the Salinas Valley. But the wail of motorcycles from the Laguna Seca Raceway nearby echoes among the hills, a reminder of the area’s expansion.
Pastures of Heaven was published in 1932, its setting modeled after the Corral de Tierra Valley. We climbed the Laureles Grade towards Carmel Valley to get a better view of the area and saw knots of oak trees punctuated by golden fields and housing subdivisions that multiplied over the years as more people moved there.
Corral de Tierra sits at the foot of Castle Rock, a sandstone cliff that figures prominently in Pastures of Heaven and where Steinbeck played as a child.
To be sure, the area is developed with a golf course and more. But some parts still retain old California charm.
Wild turkeys nestle under oak trees thick with moss. One house is tucked behind an eight-foot-high cactus fence. Others have sturdy walls and colorful tiles that evoke old haciendas.
Any study of Steinbeck, who received the Nobel Prize in literature in 1962, should include a stop in Salinas.
Much has changed since Steinbeck lived there. The former Sang’s Cafe, where Steinbeck dined regularly, is now La Gran Diabla, a technicolor cantina named after a she-devil. The National Steinbeck Center was built on Main Street, a few blocks from his childhood house (see sidebar, p. 56). It is an educational trove.
A large map at the Steinbeck Center highlights the Oldtown Salinas area that Steinbeck wrote about in East of Eden. On display is the camper he drove around the country with his dog, Charley.
Steinbeck is buried in Salinas, not Sag Harbor, New York, an artist community on Long Island where he mostly lived until his death in 1968.
Garden of Memories Memorial Park is located on a noisy stretch of Abbott Street crowded with welding equipment stores, fast-food chains and industrial machine shops. A hand-painted arrow directs visitors to a scrubby patch of grass near a family plot. There, an unadorned marker bears Steinbeck’s name.
Admirers arrange stones, coins and plastic pens on the marker in memory of the author. It is a humble grave—fitting, I imagine, for a man who spent much of his career writing about the working class. I believe he wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.
Laura M. Holson is an award-winning feature writer who worked for The New York Times for more than two decades and founded The Box Sessions, a creativity company.
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The Steiny Diet
Humble eat-and-drink destinations to channel Monterey Bay’s bard of the blue collar.
On Feb. 27, 2025, on what would’ve been John Steinbeck’s 123rd birthday, the C Restaurant next to Doc Ricketts’ Pacific Biological Laboratories on Cannery Row staged a “Steinbeck Dinner.”
The author would’ve likely smiled at Exec Chef Matt Bolton’s menu of abalone, Salinas Valley greens, steak and potatoes (albeit fancied up), and Pastry Chef Michelle Lee’s “beer milkshake” with chocolate-Guinness ice cream, all dishes that drew literal inspiration from his books.
The $140 tag, not so much.
Here appear places much more his price point, across Steinbeck Country, listed south to north.
Big Sur Taphouse
The only real locals spot on the South Coast earns that loyalty from the everyman with bargain-grade daily specials, a strong craft beer lineup and dog-friendliness (I see you, travelin’ Charley), plus the connected deli-bodega’s hefty sandwiches, burritos and other essentials.
Noon–9pm daily (deli 7am–8pm)
47520 Highway 1, Big Sur bigsurtaphouse.com
Pearl Hour
When a woman sitting at the long antique bar got up to use the restroom, her companion volunteered some information to Pearl Hour owner/ operator Katie Blandin (see sidebar, p. 59). “She’s Steinbeck’s granddaughter,” Blandin remembers the man saying, “but she doesn’t want to make a big deal about it.” Then he added: “I think he would really approve of this place.”
At the affordable little brother to Phil’s Fish Market & Eatery, the industrious clientele, the burly burgers, the spot-on “shack” name, the basic picnic benches perched by Elkhorn Slough… all speak Steinbeck’s language. On top of that: 1) The best-selling calamari sandwich comes on sourdough; 2) The Western Flyer boat Steinbeck took to Baja California with Doc Ricketts—now retrofitted for modern science and education expeditions like its first such trip this summer— often docks at nearby Moss Landing Harbor; and 3) Sourdough stars as a staple for their Baja
mission, as Steinbeck observes in The Log from the Sea of Cortez, writing, “Our sourdough bread came out surprisingly well…”
It’s not surprising that the famous author ate here—his childhood home, where he was also born. More surprising: How much hustle and heart the home’s volunteers put into seasonal lunches serving items like walnut “meat” loaf, tri-tip with chili beans and “Steinbeck brownie pies.” “It’s all about people getting to know more about the history of the house,” says Kathy Culper, the nonprofit SH’s president, “and the beauty of the produce that comes out of our valley that we showcase.” The latest edition of the Steinbeck House Cookbook debuts in the downstairs Best Cellar Gift Shop this December, with new Blue Zones–certified recipes.
11:30am–2pm Tuesday–Saturday (gift shop until 3pm)
132 Central Ave., Salinas steinbeckhouse.com
Cowboy Corner Cafe
Steinbeck and his sister Esther were close (he’d frequently write from the road, and visit Esther’s house in Watsonville whenever he could) and remain so (they’re buried next to each other in Salinas). So a kindred spot in her Pajaro Valley farming community merits mention here. Particularly an old-school, from-scratch and breakfast-lunch classic like the Cowboy Corner Cafe, run by Juan Diaz, who rose from dishwasher to owner, after coming to California—East of Eden style—looking for a better life.
946 Main St., Watsonville cowboycornercafe.com
Mark C. Anderson
The Steinbeck House
QUIEN SABE
Surreal Sipper
A peek into the creation of a literary libation
By Mark C. Anderson
Page 124 of Katie Blandin’s creased copy of Cannery Row sequel Sweet Thursday comes decorated with a lot of her underlining and lopsided star symbols.
Her scribbles help reveal where she found inspiration for a house specialty.
A paraphrase appears here.
“How about a cocktail?” Steinbeck’s quasi-fictional character Sonny Boy asks Doc RIcketts, who’s out on a date. “The wine’s cooling.”
Then Sonny remembers a Doc favorite: The Webster F. Street Layaway Plan, a martini made with chartreuse instead of vermouth.
“Very effective, as I remember it,” Doc replies, ordering two doubles.
Blandin’s bar, which recently debuted its own backyard Pearl Diver satellite bar space, next to Pearl Hour’s lush Bohemian garden, takes its name from a line in Cannery Row, “It is the hour of pearl—the interval between day and night when time stops and examines itself.”
So it made poetic sense she would share her Steinbeck-spiritual recipe for a Webster F. Street Layaway Plan remix. Plus she just loved the idea of building a 2:1 martini on her favorite chartreuse substitute.
The resulting tonic enjoys the same sort of balance between simplicity and complexity as do Steinbeck’s characters, and prose.
Substitutions for her preferred ingredients are Steinbeck- and Blandin-approved. Simple utilitarian thinking remains a theme.
“Whatever you can get your hands on will taste great,” she says, channeling the attitude of Cannery Row’s Mack and the Boys.
The final tasting notes here come from Ricketts and his date, Suzy, pulled from Blandin’s annotated page 125:
“I should have warned you,” said Doc. “There’s a rumor that this drink is made of rattlesnake venom and raw opium.”
Suzy got her breath. “It’s good,” she said. “But I was watching its right hand and walked into a left hook!”
The name for the off-menu elixir also draws from the same pages, and a Suzy zinger: “When in doubt move slowly— slowness, it gave meaning to everything, it made everything royal.”
The Slow Like Suzy
1½ ounces Occitan Gin
1 ounce strawberry-infused* Centum Herbis**
¼ ounce Bordiga Bianco Vermouth
¼ ounce Bordiga Extra Dry Vermouth
Stir with ice to chill, strain into a coupe glass.
*To infuse Pearl Hour’s favorite alternative to hard-to-find green chartreuse and its similar “exciting and interesting story,” per Blandin, slice and soak organic strawberries in a sealed jar of the spirit for 24 hours.
**For the non-spirits nerds, Centum Herbis (Latin for “100 herbs”) works as an easier-to-find, but-no-less-potent, alternative to chartreuse. In short, yet another item that honors Steinbeck’s spirit(s).
At the Imperial Hotel, bountiful homespun comfort food like French toast croque monsieur pairs with an 1870s setting.
Small Wonder
California’s tiniest town delivers big on flavor and history
BY STUART THORNTON
PHOTOS BY MARK C. ANDERSON
Under hills dabbed with bright green oaks, wealthy California rancher Jose Maria Amador discovered gold back in 1848 on both sides of the creek in the town that now bears his name: Amador City. That find led to the development of the Little Amador Mine, the Spring Hill Mine and, most importantly, the Keystone Mine that produced $24 million in gold and brought thousands of prospectors to the area.
These days, there are still riches to be found in this Gold Rush town that stakes the claim of being California’s smallest city in size, occupying just 3/10 of a square mile.
An under-three-hour drive from Santa Cruz, Amador City also provides a perfect weekend for those wanting to dig into California history—or just enjoy the fun and friendly food and wine establishments lined up along the town’s “main street,” which happens to be Highway 49, and about a block long.
The center of town, located at a noticeable bend in Main Street, is the two-story brick Imperial Hotel, which was constructed in 1879 after a fire tore through the town a year earlier.
The latest iteration of the longrunning establishment occurred when Kevin Carter and Cassie Davis acquired the landmark at the end of 2022. After six months of renovations and redecorating, the new Imperial Hotel opened in March 2023.
the town, the amenities include Nespresso machines, soaking tubs and a well-stocked mini-bar with unexpected items ranging from tins of mushroom-based “creativity mints” to tiny bottles of German digestif Underberg.
Dinner on our first evening revealed the Imperial’s impressive and ambitious epicurean offerings. Beverage Manager Rosie Grillo utilizes her skills and creativity to employ ingredients including mushroom bitters and a spring garden lime cordial in crafting flavorful cocktails, while the beer and wine list goes deep and includes a $120 bottle from 3 Fonteinen Brewery in Belgium.
Carter and Davis initially envisioned the restaurant going in a finedining direction but decided to change course by developing an elevated experience that appeals to both visitors and locals.
“We wanted to keep it true to the beautiful bones that the building has,” Carter says.
The hotel oozes Wild West ambiance but doesn’t lack modern amenities and comfort. The Imperial has six rooms above its bustling bar and restaurant, though we stayed a block and a half away at the hotel’s offsite cottage and its three spacious, well-appointed suites.
In a cottage on the appropriately named God’s Hill overlooking
While we tasted inventive offerings including elote fries and crispy pork belly over orange cider slaw, General Manager Alyssa Luft explained how the restored hotel, restaurant and six-seat bar became a community focal point when it reopened after a nearly six-month renovation.
“We are the only business in Amador City that has a liquor license,” she says, “but the food has been the draw.”
Head Chef Becca Martinez mentions that they utilize local produce as much as possible, sourcing ingredients from the likes of Upcountry Farms, an organic farm in nearby Ione, and Gold’s Bakery, known locally for its sourdough.
“We like supporting our neighbors,” she says.
A leisurely Mother’s Day brunch the next morning showcased four courses including smoked salmon carpaccio and a grilled-asparagusand-crab salad on a tangle of greens.
The Mother’s Day brunch is one of the Imperial’s special events. They also offer quarterly wine dinners, for which they pair up with local vintners.
The foothills around Amador City became California’s first wine-producing region during the Gold Rush. The Original Grandpère Vineyard, planted in 1869, is the oldest Zinfandel vineyard in the state. Zinfandel is still produced in the region, along with Barbera, Syrah, Sangiovese and Viognier.
The place to sample wine in Amador City is The End of Nowhere, a tasting room where winemaker Chris Walsh pours natural wines that he produces nearby in his father’s former auto shop.
A local who returned to the area after 15 years of working in New York City wine bars, Walsh does unexpected takes on popular varietals—a smooth and chilled Zinfandel rosé, for instance—along with obscure wines including a slightly effervescent orange wine called Little Faith.
“If there is anything you don’t enjoy, pitch it in the creek,” Walsh said, standing on the winery’s back deck.
The names of the wines reflect Walsh’s musical tastes. “Little Faith” takes its name from a song by The National, and “Strange Currencies” honors a gem from R.E.M.’s 1994 album Monster
When we visited The End of Nowhere, it felt like a party. DJ Ben was playing reggae records on the shaded back patio, while North Fork Feast—a barbecue and raw bar caterer from nearby Diamond Springs—served up poke bowls and tuna sliders.
On most days, Walsh is grilling up his custom-blend burgers, featuring a mix of ground chuck, American Wagyu, bison and lamb.
Walsh believes that there’s a positive and a negative to producing wine in Amador County.
“There’s a long history of producing it here,” he says, “but it’s a small, out-of-theway region.”
(Clockwise from top left) Beverage Manager Rosie Grillo deploys botanical tinctures to levitational cocktails at The Imperial; bookish butterflies occupy a keepsake shop’s window on the 1/2 block of “main street”; doorstepdelivered breakfasts from Imperial pack serious payload; bistro tables over Sutter Creek echo the town’s overall charm; winemaker/grill master Chris Walsh of The End of Nowhere excels at natural vinos and enological education.
On weekends, Amador City’s population, which usually hovers around 200 people, grows with an influx of visitors.
The Amador Whitney Museum— not related to New York City’s Whitney Museum of American Art—is located inside the oldest commercial building in Amador City.
In addition to artifacts including a safe and a church organ, the museum tells the sordid tales of individuals including Frank Fish, a local eccentric who kept caged rattlesnakes in the building and who met a suspicious death after writing the 1961 book Buried Treasure and Lost Mines.
The colorfully named Pig Turd Alley is a narrow thoroughfare that includes a bridge over a small creek along with a view of rusting mining equipment. The real treasures along the walkway are the Scottish shop Heather in the Hills and Meyer’s Antiques, with its collection of historic photos and vintage slot machines.
For our last dinner in town, we headed for Moonrise Pizza, known for its playful retro feel, mini pinball arcade and long pan pizzas.
Options include a Thai version topped with lemongrass-ginger beef, herb salad, crushed peanuts and toasted rice powder. We tried the classic pepperoni loaded with cups, and the “Sweet Baby Cheesus” starring charred onion cream, fig jam, garlic and drops of lemon ricotta (pictured, p. 64).
Alania Selli, the front of the house lead, explained that their pizza style can’t be defined as Detroit or Chicago.
“It’s our own style,” she said. “It’s a mishmash.”
Other reasons to visit Amador City include Dancin’ in the Street, when the city shuts down a portion of Amador Creek Road on a few summer and fall evenings for open-air live music and dancing. It’s just another reason that Amador City is the best find in Gold Country.
“It’s so welcoming and accommodating,” Luft says of her adopted hometown. “There’s nothing cold about it.”
Stuart Thornton authors books that help readers navigate coastal California for Moon Travel Guides, including the recently released Moon Monterey and Carmel.
JULIA’S
The Dossier
Insider tips for unearthing riches in rarified Gold Country.
The “1915 Rules for Teachers” at Amador Whitney Museum include some directives that haven’t aged as well as the wider town, like #4 (“You may not loiter downtown in ice cream stores”) and #11 (“Your dresses must not be shorter than two inches above the ankle”). They are also far stricter than these guidelines, rendered here as the regular companion to the “Appetite for Travel” feature, to maximize your adventure strategy.
Timing is almost everything
As this goes to press, it’s 95 degrees in Amador City. Come winter, Kirkwood Mountain Resort sits an hour and 22 minutes away, but that doesn’t factor in conditions on Route 88, which can get gnarly. The point is this: Winter and summer tend to be extreme, so fall and spring present great seasons to visit.
Visit the neighbor
Intrigue awaits five miles from Amador City, where Sutter Creek, population 2,700, is similarly compact, historic, adorable and built around a small river. The required experience here would be visiting the transportive Hein & Company Books and Antiques, filled to the ceiling with rare books, model trains and photogenic collectibles.
Consider caffeine
If you’re a coffee hound, this is key. The go-to Amador City spot for a good cuppa joe / specialty food market / bake shop / espresso bar, Foothill Kitchen Provisions, closed early for a holiday weekend dur-
ing our visit, and the next closest option sits in Sutter Creek, in the form of Choc-O-Latte, open seven days a week and flowing specialty coffee, chocolates and free WiFi.
Stop for sausage
Heading north toward California history should involve a little bit of immigrantforged Americana in the form of barebones, big-flavor, old-school Lockeford Meats in the town with the same name, with the line out the door and famous Bavarian sausages, smoked bratwurst and British bangers in the case.
Get loopy
A locals favorite hike traces Amador Creek Road to Turner Road and then String Bean Alley, a bucolic 2.5-mile loop to and from town. It’s an accessible way to see the countryside, all along and above Amador Creek.
Embrace natural and native wow
Two worthy adventures to spin into a weekend are Black Chasm Cavern (with its three levels of chambers, vertical cave and curving spiral “helictite“) and Indian Grinding Rock State Park (with its massive central rock pocked with mortar-and-pestle pits used by indigenous inhabitants).
Pack snacks (and deodorant)
The in-room goodies earn applause at the Imperial (see story, p. 61), but the closest everyday drug stores lie five and seven miles away, in Sutter Creek (Walgreens) and Jackson (CVS), respectively.
—Mark C. Anderson
COOKBOOK CONFIDENTIAL
Fresh Greens
Greens’ new vegetable queen now has her own cookbook
BY DEBORAH LUHRMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN SCOTT
Katie Reicher walked into the legendary Greens restaurant in San Francisco as an intern in 2015 and never left.
Raised in New York’s Hudson Valley and freshly graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, Reicher says she immediately felt at home.
“Greens is a wonderful environment to work in. It’s not cutthroat; it’s, like, ‘Let’s help each other and get this done as a team,’” she says. “I’m not sure if that’s because we’ve been woman-led all these years or because of the Zen connection or both.”
Chef Katie Reicher grew up helping her mother in the garden but admits she doesn’t have much of a green thumb. Instead, she has a host of garden tattoos, featuring botanical drawings of squash, blackberries, lemons, snap peas, nasturtiums and persimmons.
Greens vegetarian restaurant is owned by the San Francisco Zen Center, which also operates Green Gulch Farm in Marin County and the Tassajara Zen Mountain Center in the far reaches of Carmel Valley. The restaurant’s founding chef in 1979 was UC Santa Cruz alumna Deborah Madison, a top
authority on vegetarian cuisine, who for many years also served as tenzo (head chef) at Tassajara.
While there are no longer any monks working at Greens, Reicher says the Zen influence can be felt in the mindfulness that goes into preparing meals and in subtler ways, like the lack of ambient music in the dining room—so diners can enjoy the food and company without distraction.
Reicher, 31, is now executive chef at Greens, as well as general manager. Her debut cookbook Seasons of Greens: A Collection of New Recipes from the Iconic San Francisco Restaurant is a snapshot of the way the restaurant and vegetarian cuisine have developed in the 2020s.
“In the ’70s and ’80s we used a lot of cheese and butter because we were afraid people would miss the meat,” she says. “Then in the ’90s and 2000s, with [Executive Chef] Annie Sommerville, she did a complete 180 and everything became very, very healthy.
“Nowadays we’ve evolved a little past that and people aren’t coming to Greens because they want a healthy vegan meal; they’re coming because they want the best version of vegetarian cuisine.”
Following in the illustrious footsteps of Deborah Madison and Annie Sommerville is not without hurdles. In the book, Reicher writes of a three-year debate over whether to buy a deep fryer for the kitchen. Traditionally, fried foods were off limits at Greens, but Reicher was dreaming of putting crunchy tempura vegetables and ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms on the menu.
In the end, in a compromise of sorts, a tiny deep fryer was purchased. “It wasn’t worth depriving our guests and cuisine of a crucial texture and cooking method just for the sake of legacy,” she says.
The newest Greens cookbook includes more than 120 of Reicher’s own plantbased recipes, which she terms “farm driven and world inspired.” That global inspiration comes from the Middle East with recipes like Green Goddess Hummus, Sundried Tomato Harissa and Rhubarb Muhammara. They also derive from her Italian heritage, from Mexico and from Asia.
“Miso has become one of the most important ingredients I use at Greens,” she says, explaining it adds umami. “It’s something new that we started incorporating in my time.”
While meat dishes have natural umami, cooking with vegetables
requires more finesse to make them shine.
“A carrot has some natural sugar, but it doesn’t really have fat and it doesn’t have acid. It’s not quite balanced on its own,” she says. “You have to add stuff to it in a thoughtful way so you’re not overpowering the carrot flavor but you’re enhancing it with good-quality olive oil and some seasonings and maybe some lemon juice. Then, all of a sudden, you have this amazing carrot.”
Seasoning with miso adds salt and a little sweetness, and since it’s fermented it also adds umami. Reicher uses it in a wide variety of dishes in the book.
Not one to shy away from hard work or more responsibilities, Reicher volunteered to make a four-course dinner for 168 guests at the Homeless Garden Project’s Sustain Supper fundraiser last summer in Santa Cruz.
Burrata toasts with balsamic cherries and fresh spring rolls from her new cookbook were among the dishes on the lavish menu. After the meal, greeted by enthusiastic applause, she told diners, “My food philosophy is to really just be mindful and celebrate every step of the process, from the soil to what ends up on our plates.”
Deborah Luhrman is the publisher of Edible Monterey Bay
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Aptos | Capitola | Half Moon Bay River Street | Westside Santa Cruz
Caramelized Mushroom and Onion Pasta
Courtesy chef Katie Reicher, Greens restaurant in San Francisco
This pasta recipe was originally written to honor the fabulous, funky, cheesy qualities of cashew miso made by Shared Cultures in San Francisco, but any miso will work. That, plus Grana Padano, roasted mushrooms and chili crisp, make for an unusual but delightful fusion of flavors that are incredibly umami rich.
1 pound mushrooms, such as cremini, black trumpet, oyster or maitake, cut into bite-sized chunks
1½ teaspoons salt + more as needed
¼ cup grapeseed oil
1 pound fresh or dried fettuccine or pappardelle
1 large onion, sliced thin
2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, torn into 1- to 2-inch pieces
6 tablespoons miso butter*, made with Shared Cultures cashew miso or mushroom miso
2 ounces Grana Padano or similar hard grating cheese (optional)
½ cup chili crisp
1 bunch scallions, sliced thin into ribbons or on the bias
* Make miso butter by combining 2 parts butter with 1 part miso.
Preheat the oven to 425˚F. Toss the mushrooms with 1 teaspoon of salt and about 3 tablespoons of grapeseed oil. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for about 20 to 25 minutes, until the mushrooms have dried out a bit and have caramelized nicely. Remove from the oven and set aside.
If making fresh pasta, prepare that next. Roll the pasta to very thin, nearly translucent sheets (about 1/16-inch thick). Roll the sheets up into long, loose cigars and slice crosswise into ¾-inch-thick ribbons for pappardelle, or into ½-inch-thick ribbons for tagliatelle. Bunch into nests and set aside.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add a small drizzle of grapeseed oil and the sliced onion and allow it to deeply caramelize, about 20 to 25 minutes. Stir the onions occasionally, so that they have time to sit and caramelize. While the onions cook, bring a large pot of water with a generous handful of salt to a rolling boil.
Once the onions have caramelized, deglaze the pan with the soy sauce, scraping up any stuck bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the brown sugar and salt to the onions and stir to dissolve. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the cooked mushrooms to the pan along with the garlic and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the garlic is softened. Add the kale and cook until wilted, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Next, add the fresh pasta to the pot of boiling water and cook for about 2 minutes, until the pasta is al dente. If using dry pasta, cook according to package directions. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of pasta water, and add to the pan with the mushrooms and kale. Add the miso butter and stir to coat. Add about half of the pasta water and the cheese. Stir to create a thick, rich, glossy sauce. Add more pasta water as needed. Adjust the seasonings to taste.
Portion the pasta into bowls and garnish with chili crisp and scallions. Serves 6–8.
All of these restaurants emphasize local ingredients and they also advertise in Edible Monterey Bay! Please check hours online before you go and tell them we sent you.
Seared albacore tuna with roasted artichoke hearts and root vegetables in citrus herb vinaigrette at Passionfish in Pacific Grove
APTOS
Cavalletta 9067 Soquel Drive
831-661-5010 • cavallettarestaurant.com
Chef-owners Shawn Ryberg and Nick Sherman (who also operate Trestles in Aptos) offer seasonal Italian-inspired fare in a laid back environment that includes a leafy deck overlooking Aptos Creek. Pizzas, salads, pastas and entrées are all made in-house using locally sourced ingredients. Short rib rigatoni, seafood scampi, focaccia with burrata and lasagna, served Mondays only, are fan favorites. The partners spent nearly a year perfecting their pizza dough, which is light and tangy, and blisters to perfection in the wood-fired oven. Open Th–F, M 5–9pm. Sa–Su 4:30–9pm.
Mentone
174 Aptos Village Way
831.708.4040 • mentonerestaurant.com
A fun twist on the cuisine of the Riviera, Mentone is a casual restaurant and cocktail bar from David Kinch—one of the country’s most acclaimed fine dining chefs. Kinch loves the Mediterranean coast where France meets Italy, and Mentone brings some of those flavors to California with appetizers like duck rillettes and stracciatella with olive oil produced just down the road. There are housemade pastas and a handful of bistro-style entrées like pan-roasted black cod and steak frites, but the main draw is pizza—pulled bubbling hot from the Valoriani woodfired oven and loaded with Italian toppings. Open W–Su 5–9pm. Lunch Sa–Su noon–2:30pm.
Persephone
7945 Soquel Drive
831.612.6511 • persephonerestaurant.com
With a namesake like the mythic Persephone, this restaurant in Aptos proclaims its deep reverence for seasonal cooking. Themes central to harvest, winter and spring are core to Persephone’s story, and are reflected in the changing menu at this fine dining destination, where chef Cori Goudge-Ayer presents inventive, ingredient-driven creations. The restaurant is a family-run passion project, bringing together parents, siblings and a long history of culinary
arts in a beautifully redesigned space overlooking Aptos Creek. Open for dinner W–Sa 5–8:30pm. Fourth Sundays, Winemaker Dinner with five-course pairing menu.
New Leaf Community Markets
161 Aptos Village Way
831.685.8500 • newleaf.com
The Aptos branch of the beloved local market group occupies the remodeled Hihn Apple Barn, built in 1891. In addition to local groceries and organic produce, New Leaf Aptos has made-to-order sandwiches, pizza, freshly rolled sushi, soup and hand-prepped salads, as well as a coffee bar, juice and smoothie bar and organic Straus soft serve ice cream. Open daily 8am–9pm.
The Penny Ice Creamery
141 Aptos Village Way, Suite 2
831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com
Open Su–Th noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.
Seascape Foods
16B Seascape Village • 831.685.3134
A charming family-owned market with an ample deli counter featuring daily chef specials, salads, breakfast items, freshly squeezed juices and sandwiches on housemade organic sourdough bread. The grocery section includes organic produce, artisanal products, local beer and wine, and gifts. Eat outside next to the fountain on the patio or take your goodies to the beach nearby. Open daily 8am–8pm.
CAPITOLA
New Leaf Community Markets
1475 41st Avenue
831.479.7987 • newleaf.com
Just opened in November, the new Capitola New Leaf Community Market occupies a larger footprint at 24,000 square feet, allowing expanded sections for organic produce, meat and seafood. The store also has increased its natural wellness section and its hot and cold food to go options. Enjoy California BBQ, fresh sushi and a selfserve poke bar. A coffee and juice bar offers locally roasted drip coffee and juices in reusable glass bottles. Open daily 7am–10pm.
The Penny Ice Creamery
820 41st Avenue
831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com
Open Su–Th noon–10pm, F–Sa noon–11pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.
Trestles
316 Capitola Avenue
831.854.2728 • trestlesrestaurant.com
Just steps away from the iconic Capitola train trestle, chefowner Nick Sherman’s passion for great food is evident in every dish at his popular neighborhood bistro. Local seasonal ingredients star in appetizers like chicory salad, roasted fairytale pumpkin with goat cheese and mole negro, Brentwood street corn and crispy pork belly with watermelon radish. Entrées include smoked eggplant gnocchi, Niman Ranch pork chop and fresh fish—all served with local wines and craft beers on tap. Open W–F 5–9:30pm, Sa–Su 4:30–9:30pm.
CARMEL
Bruno’s Market & Deli
6th Avenue & Junipero Street
831.624.3821 • brunosmarket.com
Where the locals have been shopping for the past 72 years, Bruno’s Market & Deli is known for its quality groceries and friendly service. An array of specialty foods, as well as popular brands, an award-winning meat department and locally grown, organic produce await shoppers. For those with no time to cook, Bruno’s chef prepares fresh entrées to go, including its renowned hand-carved prime rib dinners Thursday to Saturday from 4pm until sold out. There is also an extensive wine selection for the connoisseur. Open daily 7am–8pm.
Covey Grill
8205 Valley Greens Drive
831.620.8860 • quaillodge.com/dining/coveygrill
Covey Grill at The Quail features USDA steaks and sustainably sourced seafood complimented by unique plantbased offerings in addition to seasonal American cuisine. Covey Grill offers casually elegant indoor and outdoor dining options against the stunning backdrop of Quail’s sparkling lake and lush garden landscapes. Open for full dinner service M–Su 5–9pm, with bar opening at 4pm.
Earthbound Farm’s Farm Stand
7250 Carmel Valley Road
831.625.6219 • earthboundfarm.com
Earthbound Farm’s 100% certified organic kitchen delights with specialty coffee and tea, soft serve ice cream and a made to order breakfast and lunch menu—including soups, sandwiches, salads, baked goods, fresh juices and smoothies. Food is available to be enjoyed on the beautiful grounds or for takeaway. In addition to certified organic produce, the Farm Stand offers a selection of natural, organic, local beer and wine, groceries, gifts and flowers. Stroll through the gardens and learn about Earthbound’s commitment to organic integrity. Open daily, but check hours online as they change seasonally.
Edgar’s
8205 Valley Greens Drive
831.620.8860 • quaillodge.com
Clubhouse classics are served in a relaxed setting overlooking lush greens and the stunning hills of Carmel Valley. Enjoy New England clam chowder, Cobb salads, sandwiches, tacos, nachos and elevated flatbread pizza, all superbly created by executive chef Goran Basarov. Edgar’s also serves dinner weekends with bistro specials like lasagne on Fridays and prime rib on Sunday nights. Open for lunch daily 11am–3pm, happy hour M–Th 3–6:30pm, Su 3–5pm, and open for dinner F–Su 5–9pm.
Edwin’s
6th Avenue & San Carlos Street
831.250.7744 • edwinscarmel.com
One of the liveliest corners of Carmel, Edwin’s com bines live music with a flavorful menu of Asian fusion dishes rooted in the Philippines and Indonesia. This family-owned and operated spot always attracts a crowd to the bar, where guests can enjoy appetizers like satay and lumpia, with local wines and craft beers. The cozy din ing room turns a meal into a group experience, with chef’s choice combo baskets and individual entrées like Balinese fried chicken and Singapore chili prawns. Open for lunch F–Su noon–3:30pm and for dinner W–M 5pm–close.
Grasing’s
6th Avenue and Mission
831.624.6562 • grasings.com
Chef-proprietor Kurt Grasing’s namesake restaurant has expanded since opening in 1998 to include two large din ing rooms, multiple outdoor dining areas and the everpopular bar/lounge. A Carmel classic located in the heart of the village, Grasing’s serves California cuisine, with an award-winning wine list and a vintage spirits program fea turing classic cocktails made with rare Mad Men-era gins, whiskeys, Camparis and amaros. Open daily M–F 11am–9pm, Sa–Su 10:30am–9pm.
Named for an island known as the “Hawaii of Korea” that grows divine produce, Jeju Kitchen is a buzzy spot with a mix of Californian and a modern update of classic Korean dishes. Inspired by her mother’s home cooking, owner Ashley Wolff serves up kimchi pancakes alongside coconut prawns and a crispy garlic Caesar salad; smash burgers with Gangnam tots, Jajangmyeon noodles and customer favorites—like the spicy bulgogi chicken and salmon rice bowl. Open daily 11am–8pm.
Sea Harvest Fish Market & Restaurant
100 Crossroads Boulevard, Suite A 831.626.3626 • seaharvestfishmarketandrestaurant.com
The Deyerle family that owns this local gem has its own fishing boats for the freshest catch on the Monterey Peninsula. Sea Harvest doubles as a fish market and casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. The oysters and clam chowder are customer favorites, but don’t miss the fried combo platter, grilled fillets and fish tacos. Open daily 8am–8pm.
Stationaery
San Carlos Square, Between 5 th and 6 th avenues
831.250.7183 • thestationaery.com
Stationæry is a neighborhood restaurant in Carmel operated by Anthony and Alissa Carnazzo. Offering brunch, dinner, specialty coffee, and natural wines, they celebrate comforting flavors with elegant presentation. Led by chef Amalia Scatena, Stationaery primarily sources from Monterey and Santa Cruz county farms and ranches, according to what is fresh and in season. A take-away and bottle shop next door allows for to-go orders and a unique selection of Old World and domestic wines. Brunch daily 8am–3pm. Dinner Th–Sa 5:30–9pm.
Yafa
Junipero and 5th Avenue
831.624.9232 • yafarestaurant.com
Recognized with the Monterey Bay area’s first ever Michelin Bib Gourmand, indicating good value, Yafa offers a wide selection of Mediterranean dishes in a warm atmosphere that’s popular with locals. Diners can choose from a vast menu of appetizers like Lebanese hummus, baba ganoush, Jerusalem lentil soup and the highly-recommended grilled octopus. Entrées include something for everyone, with pasta plates, substantial salads and perfectly grilled kebabs, steaks and rack of lamb. Open nightly 5–10pm.
A Perfect Place For FoOd, Wine, Friends! on the beach in santa cruz
CARMEL VALLEY
Ad Astra Bread Co.
320 Mid Valley Center @ad.astra.aterlier.cv
The first branch of Monterey’s popular Ad Astra bakery is quickly becoming a favorite with Carmel Valley locals. Stop in for Dune Coffee Roasters espresso drinks, tea, pastries, breakfast parfaits with fresh fruits and simple sandwiches that make good use of Ad Astra’s wildly popular sourdough breads. Open Th–M 7am–3pm, consult Instagram site for updated days/hours.
Carmel Valley Creamery
1 Esquiline Road
831.200.9532 • carmelvalleycreameryco.com
French-born cheesemaker Sophie Hauville crafts mouthwatering artisan cheeses and brings new life to a historic Carmel Valley building that sits close to the river and used to house a community gathering spot, Rosie’s Cracker Barrel. There is fresh goat cheese, fromage blanc, a bloomy rind Camembert and aged cheeses infused with coriander and peppercorns. Customers can watch cheese being made through glass windows, while they sip espresso drinks, nibble Ad Astra pastries or shop a curated selection of artisanal food products and gifts. Open daily 7:30am–5pm.
Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market
2 Chambers Lane 831.659.2472 • jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com
A chef-owned, friendly neighborhood market, Jerome’s offers local and organic produce, natural meats and seafood, and a great selection of domestic and imported wine, beer and microbrews. French-trained chef and owner Jerome Viel prepares delicious hot foods, sandwiches and salads for eating at outdoor seating or takeaway. The offerings start with breakfast burritos, croissants and other French pastries in the morning, followed by favorites such as coq au vin, spaghetti carbonara and chicken enchiladas for lunch and dinner. Open M–Sa 7am–7pm, Su 7am–6pm.
Sunny Bakery Cafe 18 E. Carmel Valley Road
831.659.5052 • instagram.com/sunnybakerycafe
Friendly local café offering homemade pastries, espresso drinks and light fare. Warm, welcoming service and a great array of treats made daily on site with wholesome ingredients that honor the seasons. Owner Analuisa Bejar heads the locally-minded kitchen with favorites like egg sandwiches, quiches, panini, frittatas, and irresistible BLTs. Buttery pastries, cookies, cinnamon rolls, muffins and cakes round out the list. Open W–M 7am–1pm.
FELTON
The Grove Cafe and Bakery 6249 Highway 9 831.704.7483 • thegrovefelton.com
It’s no wonder this cafe and bakery is bustling for breakfast, lunch and midday snacks. Chef Jessica Yarr brings her creative and culinary talents to this community-focused space and offers a made-from-scratch menu brimming with bright flavors and local, seasonal produce. A variety of breads—sourdough, mountain rye and Japanese milk bread—are made in-house, along with a delicious array of sweet and savory pastries. Breakfast bowls, hearty salads, small plates, local beer, natural wines and 11th Hour Coffee drinks round out the menu. Special events and catering available. Open M–W 8am–3pm, Th–F 8am–4pm, Sa 8am–5pm and all-day Sunday brunch 8am–4pm.
Wild Roots’ 100% organic produce, natural groceries, organic meats and FishWise-certified seafood all go into the prepared foods offered by the store’s full-service deli, salad and soup bar and juice bar. Enjoy on the patio out in front or take home. Open daily 9am–9pm.
HOLLISTER
La Catrina Mexican Grill
449 San Benito Street
831.313.0905 • catrinagrill.com
Family owned and operated since 2014, La Catrina offers classic Mexican tacos and enchiladas along with specialties, including chiles rellenos, cochinita pibil and garlic shrimp. Drink specials are available nightly, and there’s outdoor patio seating. Don’t miss La Catrina’s weekend brunches with chilaquiles, omelets, pancakes and menudo. Open M–Th 11am–9pm, F 11am–10pm, Sa 9am–9:30pm, Su 9am–8pm.
Paine’s
421 East Street
831.637.3882 • paineshollister.com
Hollister’s favorite casual fine dining destination for nearly 100 years, Paine’s offers a wide selection of tasty pastas, fresh seafood, grilled steaks and chicken dishes. The peaceful atmosphere and white tablecloths make it a good place to slow down and relax with a glass of wine, or enjoy a beer while watching a game at the bar. Banquet facilities are also available for large groups and special events. Open M–F for lunch 11am–2:30pm and dinner 4:30–9pm, Sa for dinner only 4:30–9pm. Closed Su.
Running Rooster
800 San Benito Street
831.634.0135 • runningrooster.com
With a passion for providing high-quality, honest food and great service, Running Rooster is a lively place to stop in for lunch or dinner. Choose among eight varieties of burgers, tacos, meal-sized salads and wood-fired pizzas. Heartier fare in the evening also includes steak, oven roasted salmon, short ribs and rotisserie chicken. There’s brunch on weekends, and a full bar serves craft cocktails, local wines and 23 beers on tap. Open W 4–8pm, Th 11am–8pm, F 11am–9pm, Sa 10am–9pm, Su 10am–8pm. Closed M–Tu.
MONTEREY
Ad Astra Bread Co. 479 Alvarado Street adastrabread.com
Come for the legendary all-organic sourdough—Seaside sourdough, olive sourdough or seeded sourdough—slowfermented in a two-day process. (Or the focaccia, or French baguette.) Stay for the big-city coffee and creative sweet treats, while enjoying the spirited and youthful service and watching the Ad Astra elves through the tall glass wall separating the cafe and production area. Open M–Su 7am–5pm.
the C restaurant + bar 750 Cannery Row 831.375.4500 • thecrestaurant-monterey.com
Step into the C restaurant and the bustle of Cannery Row will seem like a world away. Elegant yet relaxed in ambiance, diners enjoy ocean views through the C’s floor-toceiling windows and on the C side patio. Executive chef Matt Bolton provides equally gorgeous food imaginatively prepared from sustainably sourced seafood, meats and produce. Food Network baking contestant Michelle Lee is sous chef and puts her creativity to work for unique
desserts and other menu contributions. Creative craft cocktails are sure to please. Open daily for breakfast M–F 7–11am, Sa–Su 7–11:30am; for dinner Su–Th 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–10pm. The C bar opens at 4 pm daily, with Happy Hour M–Th 4–6 pm.
Coastal Kitchen
400 Cannery Row
831.645.4064 • coastalkitchenmonterey.com
Executive chef Michael Rotondo’s tasting menu at Monterey Plaza Hotel’s flagship restaurant represents one of the most habit-forming in the region, but there’s a lot more to recommend this spot. From a refreshed dining room, sweeping views of the Pacific await from each seat. Local delicacies receive elevated treatments: tempura artichoke with black button sage honey, wood- roasted black cod with shishito, squash blossom and charred coconut jus, and king salmon with raspberry, aromatic herbs and seasonal tomatoes—paired with hand-picked top-shelf wines. An indulgent new prix-fixe Sunday Brunch with endless Champagne is also well worth the splurge. Open Tu–Sa 5:30–8:30pm, Su 10am–2pm.
Coniglio Brothers Italian Deli
750 Cannery Row, Suite 108
831.901.3175 • conigliodeli.com
For authentic Italian deli sandwiches perfect for munching on a bench along the Coastal Trail, this Cannery Row deli is the place to go. Helmed by Jason Coniglio, the next generation of the family behind Carmel’s legendary and much-missed Mediterranean Market, deli sandwiches are named in tribute to Uncle Philly, Uncle Peter and Uncle Johnny. Try the muffaletta on a partially-cored french roll and throw in a couple of Italian sodas, then maybe pick up some colorful dried pasta to take home. Open Su–Th 10am–5pm, F–Sa 10am–6pm.
Estéban Restaurant
700 Munras Avenue
831.375.0176 • estebanrestaurant.com
At the heart of the downtown Monterey dining scene, Estéban Restaurant serves Spanish-inspired California cuisine made from local, seasonal ingredients, which can be enjoyed on the Mediterranean garden patio that now includes a classic pergola with toasty heaters. The menu features a selection of long-time Estéban favorites, as well as new dishes like Vieiras con Jamón (seared scallops, Baker's bacon, citrus oil, basil English pea purée, citrus supreme and asparagus ribbon) and grilled Secreto de Ibérico pork, with charred sweet peppers, ñora pepper paste, scarlet mustard frill and Picual olive oil. Open for dinner Su–Th 4:30–8:30pm, F–Sa 4:30–9pm. Brunch Sa–Su 9am–1:30pm. Grab & Go Breakfast M–F 7–10am. Tapas Happy Hour from 4:30–6pm daily.
Heirloom Pizza
700 Cass Street, Suite 102
831.717.4363 • heirloompizzapie.com
Known for its award-winning Chicago style and thin crust pizzas, Heirloom has a deep dedication to fresh ingredients. Everything is made in house from the sauces to the salad dressings. The baked, not fried, wings are a local favorite. To pair with the pies, Heirloom offers select local craft beers and a curated collection of international wines. There’s a dog friendly patio, plenty of parking and take out is available, including half-baked pizzas to finish at home. Open Su–M and W–Th 5–8pm, F–Sa 5–9pm. Closed Tuesday.
Jacks Monterey
2 Portola Plaza
831.649.7830 • jacksatportola.com
Jacks Monterey provides a refreshing culinary experience in downtown Monterey, inside the Portola Hotel & Spa. Emphasizing local ingredients, high-quality seafood, and an award-winning wine and cocktail program,
Jacks philosophy derives from globally-inspired traditions of California Cultural Cuisine. The atmosphere at Jacks is sophisticated—never pretentious. Open daily for breakfast 6:30–10:30am, dinner 4–10pm, and bar only F-Sa 10–11pm.
The Lantern Room 2600 Sand Dunes Drive
831.899.4544 • lanternroom.com
With incomparable views of the Pacific Ocean, The Lantern Room on the fourth floor of the Monterey Beach Hotel specializes in fresh seafood paired with produce from local farms and wines curated by renowned Monterey County winemaker Ian Brand. Culinary advisor Paul Corsentino and executive chef Jose Velasquez have enlisted a roster of passionate fishermen and farmers to delight diners, and also offer a full bar with carefully crafted cocktails. Don’t miss the crispy Monterey Bay grenadier appetizer and the black cod cioppino or the mushroom forager’s omelet for breakfast. Open daily for breakfast 7–11am and dinner 5–10pm. Oystertown 281 Lighthouse Ave. 831.312.8150 • oystertownusa.com
As its name indicates, the latest creation of chef Phillip Wojtowicz—formerly of Big Sur Bakery and Poppy Hall—focuses on bivalves. The chef and partner Monica Schweiger offer a selection of the freshest oysters in town, served with seasonal mignonette, topped with caviar or smoked trout roe, in shooters, baked or whipped into a smoked oyster dip. And their love for the sea doesn’t end there. Also on the menu are steamed mussels, clams, crudos, scallop ceviche and jumbo shrimp, along with a few land-based options like Mama Lena’s meatballs and an Italian chopped salad. A selection of sparkling wines is available for pairing and happy hour takes place Thursday to Sunday from 4:30–5:30pm. Open Th–Sa 4:30pm–9pm, Su 11:30am–5:30pm, M 4:30–9pm.
Peter B’s
2 Portola Plaza
831.649.2699 • peterbsmonterey.com
Following a multi-million dollar renovation, Peter B’s debuts a fresh look and a fresh menu of beer-friendly foods and craft beers brewed on site. Featuring wood, stone, and copper accents inspired by Monterey Bay, Monterey’s original craft brewery and favorite sports bar offers a rotating selection of beers on tap, two happy hours, a lively sports bar atmosphere, and outdoor dining on a petfriendly, heated patio with fire pits. A go-to spot for locals and visitors alike. Open Th–M 4–10pm.
Schooners Monterey
400 Cannery Row
831.372.2628 • schoonersmonterey.com
Residents regularly vote Schooners Best Drink With a View, and they’re not wrong. The eye candy rolls from the waves crashing on the tidal zone below to Seaside and Santa Cruz beyond, and the sippers are memorable. But that’s only part of the program. The seafood-centric menu ups the atmospheric effect with contemporary takes on a Monterey cioppino pot, seared sea scallops, Dungeness crab dip and Thai-style steamed mussels. Specialty cocktails, organic fresh-pressed juices and curated small batch beers and wine complete the affair. Open 7am–9pm daily.
Sea Harvest Restaurant & Fish Market
598 Foam Street
831.626.0547 • seaharvestmonterey.com
This fresh and casual seafood spot near Cannery Row is perfect after a day exploring the Monterey Bay Aquarium. There are grilled entrées and lots of fried options with chips, including calamari, clams, prawns, scallops and oysters. Try Sea Harvest’s popular clam chowder or a basket of crispy artichoke hearts. Open daily 9am–7pm.
SERVICE: WEDNESDAY-MONDAY 5-9
SATURDAY & SUNDAY 12
EAST LAKE VILLAGE
Tidal Coffee
400 Cannery Row
831.645.4030 • tidalcoffeemonterey.com
Thoughtful coffee blends with organic beans headline here, but picnic-lunch goodies and house-made sandwiches also come recommended. Monkey bread, maple scones and almond croissants feature in early, followed by soups, salads and panini like the roast beef with horseradish aioli, grilled onion, slices tomatoes, smoked mozzarella and pickled peppers. The coffee shop aesthetic is cute, but the adjacent decks overlooking Monterey Bay present a superior spot to spoon a fig-mascarpone or vegan chocolate-hazelnut gelato with a fresh cortado. Open Tu–Th 6am–noon, F–M 6am–4pm.
Tidewater
2600 Sand Dunes Drive
831.394.3321 • tidewatermontereybeach.com
The only truly beachfront dining experience on the Monterey Bay, Tidewater is located outside the newly redesigned Monterey Beach Hotel. It’s a perfect spot to watch the waves and catch a sunset, while indulging in Tidewater’s handcrafted cocktails or a glass of local wine or beer. Cozy up to the fire pits complete with blankets and lounge seating. Nibble on light bites like oysters, shrimp tacos or steamed mussels in Thai coconut curry broth or order a cheese and charcuterie plate to share. Open daily 4–9pm.
The Wild Plum Café & Bakery
731 Munras Avenue
831.646.3109 • thewildplumcafe.com
Located in Old Monterey in a vibrant and diverse neighborhood, Wild Plum draws people from all walks of life with sustainable bistro fare that uses organic, locally sourced produce, hormone-free Diestel turkeys roasted on site, grass-fed beef and house-baked bread and pastries. Breakfasts include scrambles, omelets, and breakfast tacos and burritos and for lunch, soups, salads, paninis and burgers. Wild Plum has a new graband-go location at Ryan Ranch, with breakfast, lunch, bakery items and espresso drinks. Open W–M 7:30am–3:30pm. Closed Tu.
MOSS LANDING
Sea Harvest
2420 Highway 1
831.728.7081 • @seaharvestmosslanding
Outdoor tables on a wooden deck overlooking Elkhorn Slough is the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood from one of the Deyerle family’s fleet of fishing boats, the same family that runs the restaurant. Choose from grilled catch of the day, shrimp Louie, fish and chips or some of the best Baja-style battered fish tacos around. Open daily 11am–7pm.
Woodward Marine Market
10932 Clam Way
831.632.0857 • woodwardmarinemarket.com
Moss Landing, population a few dozen, enjoys an outsized number of beaches, marine research institutes and, thankfully, eateries. Its newest ranks among the most inviting. WMM occupies a historic location at the Moss Landing Harbor fuel dock that delivers placeappropriate fuel for the eager eater. Clam chowder and Monterey Bay calamari lead the way on the appetizer front. A pair of salads offers roughage with style. Plates and bowls round out the menu—think bouillabaisse, fish and chips, Woodward burger, artichoke-prosciutto sandwiches and seared fish tacos. Local wines and Prosecco available, as well as local craft beer, including Alvarado Street, Other Brother, Fruition and Corralitos brewing. Open Tu–Sa 11:30am– 6pm, Su 11:30am–4pm.
PACIFIC GROVE
Café Guaraní
111 Central Avenue
831.747.1551 • cafeguarani.com
Family owned and operated, Café Guaraní is devoted to bringing traditional South American empanadas to the Monterey Peninsula. These are Paraguayan versions, with baked or fried options, meat filled or vegan. Chef-owner Liliana Rodas de Araujo has been making empanadas since she was six years old and is also known for her special occasion cakes, available by pre-order. The café also serves lunch sandwiches, yucca fries, croquettes and vegetarian chili. There’s a robust coffee program and several variations of yerba mate—a stimulating South American herbal tea. Open M–F 8am–3pm, Sa–Su 8am–5pm.
The Grill at Point Pinos
79 Asilomar Avenue
831.375.1313 • grillatpointpinos.com
Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch seven days a week, The Grill at Point Pinos is a beloved local’s secret located at the Pacific Grove Golf Links. In addition to views of the greens and the ocean beyond, owner Tamie Aceves makes sure the food and hospitality are way above par. Award-winning huevos rancheros and chilaquiles top the breakfast menu, but there are also eggs Benedict and bloody Marys garnished with Baker’s Bacon. Ingredients are fresh and local, and the restaurant is green certified. Open Su–M 8am–5pm, Tu–Sa 8am–7:30pm.
Julia’s Vegetarian
1180 Forest Avenue, Suite F
831.656.9533 • juliasveg.com
Voted the best vegetarian/vegan restaurant on the Monterey Peninsula for more than 10 years running, Julia’s features inspired vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free food with a touch of class. Julia’s is well known for its fresh seasonal exotic mushrooms, elevated vegan desserts and housebrewed kombucha on tap. Julia’s expanded breakfast menu is a great way to start your day, featuring egg sandwiches, candy cap French toast and a cordyceps brunch bowl. Plus, everything can be made vegan! Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
SPOTTED DUCK
Passionfish
701 Lighthouse Avenue
831.655.3311 • passionfish.net
Specializing in sustainable seafood and locally grown produce, Passionfish is a perennial award winner and a James Beard Award finalist for its Outstanding Wine Program—with an extensive selection of local and European wines at close-to-retail prices. Mother-son owners Meral Alpay and Rasit Berk Guvenc continue the restaurant’s legacy with favorite dishes like Dungeness crab salad with avocado and spicy ginger vinaigrette, smoked trout ceviche tostaditas, albacore tuna with artichoke-basil caponata and sea scallops with tomato-truffle butter, poached lettuce and savory rice custard. Open nightly 5–9pm.
Spotted Duck
542 Lighthouse Avenue, Suite 102
831.920.2662 • spottedduckpg.com
Spotted Duck brings a welcoming environment to downtown Pacific Grove. Chef/ owner Jerry Regester is hands on each night, preparing the menu with his creativity and capturing the essence of the changing seasons. A small restaurant with big flavor, a bistro-style menu and a French perspective, its motto is, “Duck is the new chicken!” Also offering great wines, local beer on tap and fun soju-based cocktails. Located in the historic Holman Building at the gateway to downtown Pacific Grove, Spotted Duck is considered one the best neighborhood restaurants by locals. Come eat, come experience the memorable food and hospitality that will have you coming back for more. Open Th–M 5–8pm
Wild Fish
545 Lighthouse Avenue
831.373.8523 • wild-fish.com
Owners Liz and Kelvin Jacobs welcome you to feast on the bounty of nearby waters and farms at their 100% local and organic seafood restaurant, enjoying exquisite dishes like crispy sablefish, halibut and petrale sole, accompanied by local vegetables. You’ll also enjoy fresh oysters, innovative salads, house-baked bread and sides like fingerling potatoes with poppyseed crème fraîche or baby carrots with wild nettle pesto, that make this a dining destination. Did we mention English sticky toffee pudding for dessert? Open for lunch daily 11:30am–3pm and for dinner M–Th 5–8:30pm, F–Sa 5–9:30 and Su 5–9pm.
SALINAS
Heirloom Pizza
344 Main Street
831.998.8824 • heirloompizzapie.com/salinas/live
With the same award-winning Chicago style and thin crust pizzas as its Monterey location, live@heirloom pizza in Salinas offers weekly live music, karaoke and comedy on an intimate stage. Or watch the big game on the giant screen TV, while enjoying the full bar. A huge upstairs room is available for banquets, corporate functions and private parties. Check website for upcoming events or get on the mailing list. Open Su–M and Th 5–8pm, F–Sa 4–10pm. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
SAN JUAN BAUTISTA
Lolla
201 Third Street
831.593.5064 • lollasjb.com
Owner Sarah Griss has created a soup, salad and sandwich luncheonette in an adobe building right across the street from San Juan Bautista Historic Park. Lolla sources healthy food from local farms and food producers, giving customers a quick and convenient way to eat locally, seasonally and deliciously. Daily special soups are not to be missed. Open W–Su 11am–3pm.
Housemade pasta for Seabright, Santa Cruz and the world since 2006.
Bringing smiles to the people of San Juan Bautista for 25 years, Margot’s was originally opened as a retail outlet for wonderful handmade candies, including chocolatedipped apricots, almond butter crunch, marshmallows, oreos, grahams and pretzels, as well as 10 flavors of chocolate truffles. In addition, it offers 28 flavors of Lappert’s ice cream, espresso drinks and Dole pineapple whip. Open M–Th 11am–7pm, F–Su 11am–8pm. .
Vertigo Coffee Roasters
81 Fourth Street
831.623.9533 • vertigocoffee.com
Artisanal coffee roasted on site as well as brunch items, local craft beers and wines, plus wood-fired pizzas with naturally leavened, twice fermented sourdough crust have made Vertigo a locals’ favorite as well as a great find for visitors en route to the San Juan Mission, Pinnacles or other area attractions. See their website and social media for more information.
Windmill Market
301 The Alameda
831.623.2956
San Juan’s friendly neighborhood grocer has everything you need for a picnic or quick meal, with ample outdoor tables and booths around the windmill. A full-service deli counter and taquería offers made-to-order sandwiches and Mexican specialties like tortas, burritos, tamales and combo plates. There is also a salad bar, a hot bar and plenty of grab-and-go items. Open daily 6am–9pm.
SANTA CRUZ
Avanti Restaurant
1917 Mission Street
831.427.0135 • avantisantacruz.com
A local’s favorite since the 1980s, Avanti pioneered farm-to-table dining and the use of organic, local vegetables, pasture-raised meats and sustainable seafood. Favorite dishes include calamari fritti, Brussels sprouts with roasted butternut squash and fresh pappardelle pasta with pork meatballs. On Sundays it offers Fogline Farm fried chicken dinners. Diners can choose the upscale contemporary dining room, a heated outdoor patio or the garden room. A full bar features seasonal cocktails, along with local wines and craft beer. Open W–Su 5–9pm.
Bookie’s Pizza 1315 Water Street bookiespizza.com
Located inside the Santa Cruz outpost of Sante Adairius Rustic Ales, Bookie’s Pizza is owned by fine dining veteran chef Todd Parker and offers “inauthentic” Detroit-style square pies. Each pizza is made using the best seasonal ingredients from local farms, fishermen and foragers. Dough is made with organic flour, naturally leavened for 48 hours, and each pizza comes with its own unique sauce. Open Su–Th noon–9pm. F–Sa noon–10pm.
Charlie Hong Kong 1141 Soquel Avenue
831.426.5664 • charliehongkong.com
Charlie Hong Kong has been providing the Santa Cruz community with healthy, sustainable, affordable and high-quality food since 1998. The colorful, casual eatery’s delicious fusion of Southeast Asian influences and the Central Coast’s local organic produce have made it an inclusive, family-friendly, neighborhood favorite. Its slogan is “love your body, eat organic,” and its cuisine is proof that fast food can be good for you. All signature dishes are vegan with the option to add meat or fish. Gluten-free options are available. Dog friendly. Open daily 11am–10pm.
Crow’s Nest
2218 E. Cliff Drive
831.476.4560 • crowsnest-santacruz.com
A perfect spot to enjoy breakfast and lunch or catch a dinnertime sunset over the harbor, the nautical-themed Crow’s Nest is a Santa Cruz institution that never goes out of style. There’s always something happening, from live music to comedy nights and happy hours. Famous for its salads, house-smoked salmon and seafood entrées, the Crow’s Nest is a member of Seafood Watch and is a certified green business. Open M–F 9am–8:30pm, Sa–Su 8am–8:30pm.
Far West Fungi
224 Laurel Street, Suite A101
831.226.2626 • farwestfungi.com
The air surrounding the cozy café in downtown Santa Cruz is always infused with the delightful scents of savory mushrooms and truffles. Each visit offers a fresh experience with the seasonal menu featuring a variety of cooked and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive selection of dried mushrooms, tinctures, books and cultivation supplies ensures your pantry stays stocked with rare foraged treasures. Indulge in must-try delights like candy cap mushroom cookies, hot mushroom by locally brewed kombucha on tap. Open daily 11am–5pm.
105 Walnut Avenue • eathookandline.com
831.225.0434 • 4-9pm Thursday through Monday
A modern California seafood eatery, now open in downtown Santa Cruz.
AUTHENTIC NEAPOLITAN PIZZA AND ITALIAN CLASSICS
YOUR LOCAL HEALTH FOODS STORE
Hanloh Thai Food
1011 Cedar Street
831.854.7525 • hanloh.com
This community favorite from chef-owner Lalita Kaewsawang offers standout “nostalgic cooking rooted in Thai tradition,” at a residency inside the stylish Bad Animal bookstore. Bright flavors begin with Hatsu oysters with nam jimm dipping sauce and pomelo-grilled shrimp salad tossed with chili jam dressing and Thai herbs. Entrées include lemongrass black cod, claypot pork belly confit and double fried chicken thighs with coriander. That all comes complemented by friendly hospitality and a wide selection of natural wines. Open W–Su 5–9pm.
Hook & Line
105 Walnut Avenue
831.225.0434 • eathookandline.com
Chef Santos Majano makes a welcome return to the Santa Cruz dining scene with his own seafood concept restaurant. Hook & Line taps local fishermen for the best fish and shellfish, then adapts the menu, whether it’s octopus, mussels, California halibut or just-caught Monterey Bay sardines. Oysters play a big role with a custom designed shucking station and several varieties on offer at all times. Happy hour all night Mondays and 4–5pm Th–Su features $2 oysters and special prices on wine and craft cocktails. Open Th–M 4–9pm.
Johnny’s Harborside
493 Lake Avenue
831.479.3430 • johnnysharborside.com
With sweeping views of the Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor, Johnny’s location assures fresh off the boat seafood. Steamed Dungeness crab with drawn butter is always a good choice in season, but don’t miss the clam chowder, fish and chips or Johnny’s authentic Italian-style cioppino. Crab-encrusted salmon, shrimp scampi and California halibut entrées are customer favorites, along with fish tacos, burgers and beer-steamed clams. Open T–Su noon–8:30pm. Closed M.
La Posta
538 Seabright Avenue
831.457.2782 • lapostarestaurant.com
A cozy neighborhood bistro not far from the Santa Cruz yacht harbor, La Posta chef Rodrigo Serna prepares traditional rustic Italian cuisine using local ingredients. The emphasis is on simple, seasonal selections, with the balance of the menu reflecting whatever produce is freshest right now. La Posta also offers a great selection of Italian wines and a heated outdoor patio. Open W–Th 5–8:30pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Su 5–8:30pm. Closed M–Tu.
The Midway
1209 Soquel Avenue
831.427.7187 • themidwaysantacruz.com
Acclaimed Santa Cruz chef Katherine Stern pivoted from running a popular farmers market stand during the pandemic to opening her own restaurant at the end of last year. The vibe is sleek and modern, and the food is sophisticated. Whether you try the lemon verbena pancakes, the chicken chile verde or one of the salads from the daytime menu, all dishes star seasonal produce and ingredients from Stern’s farmers market friends. Dinner options change frequently and always include a house-made pasta and a vegetarian entrée. Check website for the most updated menu. Carefully selected wines, beer and coffee roasted by Cafe Delmarette are available. Open Th–M 11am–2pm and 5–8:30pm, Sa–Su until 9pm.
New Leaf Community Markets
1101 Fair Avenue
831.426.1306 • newleaf.com
The Westside New Leaf has a large deli counter and coffee bar, with a big selection of sandwiches, salads, bakery items, soups and other hot foods. You can eat at an instore counter or at tables outside. Open daily 7am–9pm.
Drs. Sellars, Fleck and Farley
The Penny Ice Creamery 913 Cedar Street
831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com
Lines out the front door of its converted Spanish bungalow are evidence of Penny’s popularity. All ice cream, including bases, is made from scratch on the premises using local organic ingredients when possible. Dozens of exotic flavors rotate seasonally, but two favorites are chocolate caramel sea salt and strawberry pink peppercorn. Open daily noon–11pm.
The Picnic Basket
125 Beach Street
831.427.9946 • thepicnicbasketsc.com
Across the street from the main beach, owners of The Penny Ice Creamery offer an alternative to boardwalk fast food. Sandwiches, organic salads, coffee and beer, all from local food artisans, and of course Penny’s popular ice cream, are all on offer to eat in or outside with your feet in the sand. A selection of grab-and-go foods, drinks and beach essentials are available in the newly expanded restaurant. Open daily 7am–4pm.
Pizzeria La Bufala
Abbott Square Market, 725 Front St.
831.999.0301 • pizzerialabufala.com
Located in downtown Santa Cruz’s lively Abbott Square Market, Pizzeria La Bufala has been serving authentic Neapolitan pizza since 2017. This cozy spot offers a wide variety of wood-fired pizzas along with favorite Italian dishes like lasagna, gnocchi, meatballs, eggplant parmigiana and tiramisu. The authentic Italian tradition shines through in every dish, making it a beloved destination for tourists and locals alike. Open Su–Th 11:30am–8:30pm, F–Sa 11:30am–9pm.
Staff of Life
1266 Soquel Avenue
831.423.8632 • staffoflifemarket.com
A Santa Cruz landmark, Staff of Life started in 1969 as a small natural foods bakery and has grown over the years into a full service natural foods supermarket known for its local organic produce, seafood and natural meats as well as an extensive bulk department. Deli items and foods from the hot bar can be enjoyed at the Café del Sol. Open daily 8am–9pm.
Vim Dining & Desserts
2238 Mission Street
831.515.7033 • vimsantacruz.com
Chef-owner Jesikah Stolaroff brings creativity and precision to her elegant New American cuisine, giving diners a clue to her background as a fine dining pastry chef. The seasonal menu might include appetizers like kimchi rice fritters, lamb meatballs or cherry burrata, with entrées such as pineapple trout, leek butter fettuccine or coriander crusted filet mignon—served in a tasteful dining room with a full bar or on the outdoor patio. Save room for unforgettable desserts and check website for their monthly Afternoon Tea Party. Open W–Sa 5–8:30pm.
Veg on the Edge
725 Front St. Suite 106
831.750.3344 • vegontheedge.com
Opened in 2016 and located at Abbott Square Market in downtown Santa Cruz, this fast-casual eatery serves only vegan food. The menu incorporates West African cuisine you can savor in the stews and soups, along with eclectic California favorites created on site including wraps, tacos, burgers, bowls, and fries. Veg on the Edge uses only fresh produce and brings high quality fair-trade products to the community whenever possible. Open Su–Th 11am–9pm, F–Sa 11am–10pm.
Tune in Fridays around noon for Edible’s Mark C. Anderson and his Friday Found Treasures on 94.7 FM and streaming worldwide at KRML.com!
Enjoy the Area’s Finest Sustainable Seafood
Savor our innovative and organic cuisine from local farmers and fishermen.
Indoor dining and special outdoor heated patio. Full bar, craft cocktails, gluten-free menu.
545 Lighthouse Avenue • Downtown Pacific Grove An Award-Winning Dining Destination! • (831) 373-8523
262 Mount Hermon Road, Suite 104 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com
Open Su–Th noon–9:30pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.
SEASIDE
Bayview Grille 1 McClure Way
831.899.7271 • bayonetblackhorse.com
The Bayview Grille at the clubhouse of Bayonet & Black Horse Golf Course is a hidden gem with sweeping views of green fairways and the Monterey Bay. Locals in the know stop by for the build-your-own breakfast burritos, pineapple upside down pancakes and coffee cake French toast. The all-day menu, starting at 11am, features classics including tempura artichoke hearts, Cobb salads, fish and chips, a prime rib French Dip sandwich and a highly rated double smashburger that goes well with the Bayview’s irresistible beer-battered fries. Happy hour daily 3–5pm. Open daily 7am–5pm.
Other Brother Beer Co. 877 Broadway Avenue
831.747.1106 • otherbrotherbeer.com
The main attraction here is fresh, delicious beer. However, the brewery’s brand new kitchen inspires a visit on its own. Not coincidentally, dishes are designed to pair poetically with Other Brother’s house beers. The menu features goodies like its signature smashburger, fried chicken sandwich, mushroom melt, wings, fries, and creative and refreshing salads with brunch on the weekends. Check out the full menu on the website and visit the brewery taproom open M–Th 11:30am–9pm, F 11:30am–10pm, Sa 9am-10pm, Su 9am-8pm.
WATSONVILLE
Coffeeville
948 East Lake Avenue
facebook.com/coffeevillesantacruz
Local family owned and operated, Coffeeville prides itself on its dedication to single origin coffees roasted in small batches. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy a cappuccino or an espresso, offering a warm and lively atmosphere that gives a great start to your day. Organic teas, affogatos, pastries and breakfast sandwiches are also on the menu. Open M–Sa 7am–4pm, Su 8am–3pm.
Fruition Brewing & Kitchen
918 East Lake Avenue
fruitionbrewing.com
Fruition serves seafood and comfort food with delicious craft beers made on-site. The brewpub offers a rotating selection of beers with attention to balance, using the finest local, organic and California-grown ingredients with attention to balance and refreshing precision. The kitchen cooks with the seasons, featuring stunning snacks, salads, soups, outstanding oysters and gourmet grilled cheeses to pair with the super fresh beers, local cider and wine. Check their calendar for events in the tasting room and on the pet-friendly patio, including First Friday art, trivia nights and karaoke. Open W–Th noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm, Su noon–8pm.
Gizdich Ranch
55 Peckham Road
831.722.1056 • gizdich-ranch.com
Visitors from all over love this fourth-generation, family-run farm business that popularized the “pik-yor-self” experience just east of Watsonville. Tour the farm, pick fresh apples or berries or watch the action inside the juice-
pressing barn. No one leaves hungry if they spend time at the bakery-deli that pleases with its fresh pies, shortcakes and pastries, along with hearty sandwiches and box lunches. This family-friendly experience is also a treat for kids, who will enjoy the wide-open spaces and the homemade popsicles. Open daily 9am–5pm.
Hong Kong Garden
1012 East Lake Ave.
831.724.1188 • qmenu.us
Watsonville’s go-to spot for fresh Chinese food, Hong Kong Garden offers dine in and take out service. There is a friendly, family vibe and a large dining room tucked into a corner of the East Cliff Village shopping center. Reasonably priced classic Chinese dishes are prepared to order, including Hong Kong style noodles and sizzling rice soups. Two dozen lunch specials, including rice, come in at $10 or $11. Open W–M 11:30am–8:30pm.
Ozzy’s Pizzeria
1036 East Lake Avenue
831.319.4464 • ozzyspizzeria.com
Ozzy’s motto is “Pizza is Life,” and owner Tim Silva’s casual yet creative style translates to both the ambiance and the food. Crowned World Pizza Maker of the Year in 2015, Silva makes sure everything is made from scratch, using organic ingredients, including the sauces and the outstanding sourdough crust—which is expertly charred in the wood-fired oven. Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options are available, and online orders can be placed through the website. Open Su–M noon–8pm, W–Th noon–8pm, F–Sa noon–9pm. Closed Tuesday.
Silver Spur
1040 East Lake Avenue
East Lake Village is excited to add a Santa Cruz County institution to its dining roster, Silver Spur! Just opened in March of this year, the new restaurant specializes in breakfast and lunch, offering a similar menu to the original Silver Spur restaurant in Soquel, opened in the 1960s. Loyal customers come for signature orange rolls, cinnamon rolls, bread pudding and dozens of egg dishes. Father and son owners Juan Valencia and Daniel Govea also offer homemade soups, sandwiches and heartier items like chicken-fried steaks, oven-roasted turkey and roast beef.
Staff of Life
906 East Lake Avenue
831.726.0240 • staffoflifemarket.com
Opened in 2021, Staff of Life’s second store in Watsonville is its first and only branch. The store is sustainable down to its bones and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and baked goods you would find at the Santa Cruz store, along with a juice and smoothie bar, freshly made sushi, a gelato bar, a full deli and a hot bar. Open daily 8am–8pm
Sushi Qu
952 East Lake Avenue
831.319.4567 • instagram.com/sushiqu1
The place to go for sushi, sashimi, tempura and other Japanese specialties, Sushi Qu puts the emphasis on freshness and flavor. Menu items are available for dine -n or takeout, and if you’re in need of platters for your next event, Sushi Qu can do that as well. Check out the monthly specials on Instagram and Facebook. Open Tu–Th 11:30am–2pm and 5–8pm, F 11:30am–2pm and 5–8:30pm, Sa 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–8pm.
Sotheby’s International Realty 3775 Nona Marie, Suite 100 Carmel, CA 93923 831-402-4394
cary.simpson@sothebys.realty sothebysrealty.com
Operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc.
HONG KONG GARDEN
LAST CALL
COUNTRY STRONG
Family brand Corralitos Vodka draws from the orchard to give greater Santa Cruz a remarkable local spirit
STORY AND PHOTO BY MARK C. ANDERSON
Patience isn’t your typical tasting note. But it might be the most important one with Corralitos Vodka.
There are other qualities that leap out. Wildflower, honey and discreet apple aromas complete a slightly sweet inhale, which leads into a soft—almost creamy—mouthfeel.
As Corralitos co-founder/apple farmer Grant Noble Murphy says, “People who don’t like vodka go, ‘Oh, I’d drink that.’”
His co-founder/farmer and dad Grant Dennis Murphy adds a thought. (These two often speak in couplets.)
“This isn’t the bottle you grab on the way to the beach,” he says.
Patience makes it possible. That’s evident in the amount of perfectly respectable liquor they discard, holding out for what Murphy Sr. describes as “super-quality product.”
“We dump a lot to get what we want,” he says. “Others, understandably, want to produce more.”
It’s evident there in the extended trial-anderror with their small-batch contract distiller (who the Murphys request remain unnamed for competitive reasons).
“Our distiller allows us to experience the art,” Murphy Jr. says. “He lets us choose what we’re looking for.”
It’s evident right there in the hours the father-son duo debates things like how many times to refine their cider base so the result is smooth, without sacrificing identity.
“You can be too neutral, and not neutral enough,” Murphy Jr. says.
“It’s a fine line,” Murphy Sr. adds. “You take the flavor out by distilling it too much, and it becomes any other vodka.”
It’s also evident in their Browns Valley Road orchard that drips Golden Delicious, Pippin, Fuji and Gala apples. This is where the Murphys spend still more hours slowly nursing a once-neglected 13 acres back to thriving with the help of Jim Spain across the street.
“I just kinda show them what I’ve done for the last 60 years,” Spain says.
When asked why he decided to share his wisdom—as Murphy Jr. says, “He taught us everything, on a steep curve”—Spain is onbrand blunt.
“When you talk to somebody,” he says, “a lot of times you can tell if they’re decent.”
Cheyne Howell could tell the vodka was vibrant at first sip. Like Spain he has applicable acumen: Howell travels widely sampling spirits to stock his impressive inventory at Deer Park Wine & Spirits in Aptos.
“My first reaction was, ‘Wow, this really has a fresh apple flavor to it.’” Howell says. “It’s subtle, but it’s there, and [it’s] also very clean— devoid of any industrial aromas or flavors.”
He notes attendees of the recent Corralitos Vodka edition of his shop’s tastings—connoisseurs will dig the wine and spirits seminars—experienced surprise and delight.
“The Murphys have positioned themselves to make a better product by starting on the farm,” he says. “Everything tastes better when it’s fresher.”
While fresh and new apply, they also qualify as oxymoronic. Apples were planted in Corralitos in the 1800s. Some of Murphys’ trees are 100 years old.
Keeping with the theme, the Murphys spent months searching for the right property. As they seek out a Watsonville facility to do their own distilling, and continue to pluck only choice apples for use in their juice (and sell the rest), this evolution won’t be rushed.
Murphy Jr. notes a three-year timeline could stretch on to five, as they’re willing to wait for a sweet spot, which reiterates the operating philosophy at work.
“We’re not willing to compromise,” he says.
Mark C. Anderson, Edible Monterey Bay’s managing editor, loves improvising dinner direct from a CSA box.
Experience the Luxury
Experience the charm of the valley’s very first tasting room, where luxury meets relaxation. Surrounded by a beautiful setting, guests are invited to enjoy our exceptional, hand-crafted wines while soaking in the serene atmosphere. Our team prides itself on delivering phenomenal hospitality, ensuring every visit is as memorable as the wines themselves.
