Edible Monterey Bay - Winter 2024

edible MONTEREY BAY

Winter 2024 • Number 54

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE • BENEFICIAL MUSHROOMS • SAKE • CAR MEL VALLEY CREAMERY • CONE CABBAGE • FEAST OF 7 FISHES

Celebrating the Local Food and Drink of Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito Counties

WINTER 2024 • NO 54

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE • BENEFICIAL MUSHROOMS • SAKE CARMEL VALLEY CREAMERY • CONE CABBAGE • FEAST OF 7 FISHES Member of Edible Communities

Enjoy fresh berries ALL winter long.

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Contents 4

GRIST FOR THE MILL

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

Rising to the Top: Community and coffee boost Carmel Valley Creamery; Seeds of Change: Flavor-driven, sustainable vegetables are providing opportunities for local family farms; Strong Silent Types: Three winemakers who speak volumes through their wines 23

WHAT’S IN SEASON

CONE HEADS

A chef ’s secret comes to the farmers market 28

WINTER SEASONAL TABLE

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BAKING WITH THE SEASONS

SWEET ELENA’S

Young protégé finds her footing at beloved bakery

Memories of an Italian-American Christmas Eve 62

EDIBLE D.I.Y.

ONE HOT MARMA A preserve for giving or serving at holiday parties

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DINE LOCAL GUIDE

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LAST CALL

OZEKI SAKE

Hollister’s “local” brewer RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE French Curry with Halibut

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Pumpkin Ginger Loaf

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Mexican Chocolate Almond Cookies

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Mexican Hot Chocolate

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Lion’s Mane Chowder

IN THE KITCHEN

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All the world loves a trendy cup

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Root Vegetable and Apple Soup with Dungeness Crab and Brown Butter Hot Orange Marmalade

FOOD AS MEDICINE

COVER PHOTOGRAPH

LOCAL FOODS IN SEASON

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FOODSHED

WINTER FARMERS MARKETS A complete guide for the Monterey Bay area

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EDIBLE NOSTALGIA

FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES

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CHOCOLATE

PEAK BENEFICIAL MUSHROOM IS HERE And we’re going higher

Patrick Tregenza CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPH

Geneva Rico

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GRIST FOR THE MILL A few years back I was invited to a media event and had a chance to meet one of my real life heroes, chef José Andrés. The Spanish-born restaurateur and humanitarian was in our area to promote olives and other products from the European Union.

The tapas and cava at the reception were exceptional, but “how can I write about Spanish olives in a local food magazine?” I asked him.

He said while it’s always important to value local products first, we should also extend that appreciation to the skill and artistry that go into crafting traditional foods from other parts of the world.

In addition to worrying about what will happen to imports in the coming years, I’ve been thinking a lot lately about the skills and culinary talent that immigrants bring to the Monterey Bay area and the uncertainty they currently face.

Topping that list, of course, are the farmworkers who grow and harvest our fresh produce.

Let’s give thanks for all the hard work they do and pray they are willing to continue doing it.

Then let’s show appreciation for immigrants who bring culinary diversity to our region with their traditions, restaurants and businesses. In this issue we feature foods from four different parts of the world that are happily being embraced by locals.

You’ll meet a French woman who is crafting French cheeses in Carmel Valley, learn how to make spiced Mexican-style hot chocolate, discover how a traditional Italian Christmas feast found its way to Monterey and find out why a Japanese sake maker has made Hollister its home away from home.

Yes, we can grow olives here on the Central Coast; we love our Monterey Jack cheese and like to imbibe in locally distilled spirits, but what a pleasure it is to enjoy the diversity of flavors that immigrants bring with them. Let’s celebrate them this holiday season, along with the entire local food community!

EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

Deborah Luhrman deborah@ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 FOUNDERS Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Mark C. Anderson COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning LAYOUT & DESIGN Matthew Freeman and

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Analuisa Béjar • Jamie Collins • Robert Eliason Tina Fuller Somers • Laura M. Holson • Sally Jacobs • Agnieszka Kazmierczak • Alex Luhrman Michelle Magdalena • Kathryn McKenzie Laurel Miller • Laura Ness • Geneva Rico Patrick Tregenza • Amber Turpin ADVERTISING SALES

ads@ediblemontereybay.com • 831.600.8281 Shelby Lambert shelby@ediblemontereybay.com Kate Robbins kate@ediblemontereybay.com Aga Simpson aga@ediblemontereybay.com Fran Fitzharris fran@fitzharris.com DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Mick Freeman • 831.419.2975 CONTACT US:

Edible Monterey Bay P.O. Box 487 Santa Cruz, CA 95061 ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 info@ediblemontereybay.com

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Winner of five 2023 journalism awards

Edible Monterey Bay is published quarterly. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Subscriptions are $28 per year at ediblemontereybay.com. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. We also welcome letters to the above address. Thank you.

Our Mission

At Edible Monterey Bay, our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

RISING TO THE TOP

Community and coffee boost Carmel Valley Creamery

BY KATHRYN MCKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA

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S

ophie Hauville readily admits she is obsessed with cheese.

Part of that comes from growing up in a fromage-loving family in the Normandy region of France. The other part comes from moving to the United States two decades ago and finding it a bit of…a cheese desert.

Now, she is enhancing the landscape of cheesemaking in Monterey County, where few creameries currently exist.

But the path to her artisanal career took her down a long and convoluted road. In 2002, Hauville moved to Chicago for a business internship. It was a culture shock in many ways, including the fact that she did not then speak English. Chicago winters, too, were something that took getting used to.

When she returned from trips to her home country, “I used to hide cheese in my suitcase,” Hauville admits. “It was a real bummer to not find any good cheese (in the U.S.).” Her family back in France was sympathetic to her plight and at one point her cousin mailed her a Camembert.

For many years, Hauville worked in corporate sales and marketing, only to have her career abruptly shut down by the pandemic. Sheltering in an off-the-grid cabin in Palo Colorado, she kept herself occupied by working on the Eichorn family’s Country Flat Farm. There she also began having conversations about cheese with Charlie Cascio, head cheesemaker for Carmel Valley Ranch at the time. Cascio took Hauville under his wing and showed her his techniques. She fell for cheese all over again, but now, she wanted to make it her livelihood.

“I was hooked,” she says. “I realized I could make the flavors from home here.”

This lifelong romance sparked the newly opened Carmel Valley Creamery, owned by Hauville with partners Ken Howe and Justin Saunders. It is a cheesemaking operation as well as a retail shop with coffee, artisanal products and, of course, cheese for sale. Launched on July 14—Bastille Day—the creamery has become a social hub for Carmel Valley Village, something that harkens back to the building’s past

life as Rosie’s Cracker Barrel, a popular general store and tavern. “It’s a gathering spot that instantly became a gathering spot again,” says Hauville.

The coffee/espresso bar has been a huge draw, although Hauville says it was a last-minute addition when the anticipated beer and wine license was delayed. The clean, bright space with a modern rustic vibe also allows people a peek at the cheesemaking process, with the creamery room visible through large windows. Rows of cheeses can also be glimpsed in the temperature- and humidity-controlled aging room.

“We spent a lot of time creating a space that would be warm and welcoming,” says Hauville. Patios in the front and back of the building give the opportunity to sit outside and enjoy a latte or cappuccino in the Carmel Valley sunshine.

Hauville’s aim is to make cheese during business hours when customers can see what she’s doing: “It’s really important to let people see how their food is made,” she says.

She is keeping the Rosie’s Cracker Barrel tradition alive by also offering a selection of delicious items for sale. In addition to its house cheeses, everything from local honey and jams to bread and pastries from Ad Astra in Monterey and a variety of dates, olives, charcuterie and crackers is on display, everything a person might need for a midday picnic or an afternoon get-together with friends. A selection of French wines is planned for the near future. Coffee comes from local sources as well, Acme roasters in Seaside and Alta Organic in Santa Cruz, and ice cream comes from Monterey’s Revival.

Carmel Valley Creamery’s Via Contenta is a Gruyèrestyle cheese with black peppercorns named for one of the main streets of the village.

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Her family back in France was sympathetic to her plight and at one point her cousin mailed her a Camembert.

Photo: Michelle Magdalena

Officially, Carmel Valley Creamery is a CDFA-accredited microcreamery, since its output is small, at least for the moment. (There are only two other creameries in Monterey County—Garden Variety Cheese in Royal Oaks and Schoch Family Farmstead in Salinas.) In addition to making cheeses for her shop, Hauville supplies Bernardus Lodge, Holman Ranch, Woody’s at the Airport and The Preserve.

The lack of artisanal cheesemakers in this region is puzzling, Hauville says, when you consider places like Sonoma County have dozens. It’s even odder when you consider that in the early 1900s, Monterey County was an important dairy region in the state, before agriculture focused on row crops and wine grapes.

As you might expect, Hauville’s cheeses have a French accent.

Schoch is her cow’s milk source and goat milk comes from Claravale Farm in San Benito County. Each week, she makes fresh fromage blanc in several varieties; others with a longer aging period include Cowboy, a Camembert-style bloomy rind cheese; Via Contenta, an

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alpine style with a semi-soft texture and nutty flavor; and River Day, a rind cheese with citrus notes, washed with beer and aged for 60 days. Hauville has plans to create other varieties as well, including a creamy feta and a reblochon-style cheese.

Hauville has her hands full as head cheesemaker and shopkeeper, but still bubbles over with expansion plans. She is adding to the interior of the Creamery, with more products and décor to be hung, in the spirit of Rosie’s Cracker Barrel. She also wants to make this a place of community much as former owner William “Rosie” Henry did, when his establishment attracted people from all walks of life. “Dennis the Menace” cartoonist Hank Ketcham was a regular, but the clientele ranged from cowboys to movie stars.

Hauville aims to honor the Cracker Barrel tradition by bringing all kinds of people together. She’s doing so now with a oncea-month family-friendly event that features a pen of pygmy goats and local vendors; she also hopes to hold a European-style holiday market with antiques, pottery, clothing and gift items for sale.

“We want to bring a little France to Carmel Valley,” she says.

And people are responding to that sense of community. Some drop by with gifts, including one woman who donated several original paintings depicting the Cracker Barrel in its heyday, which Hauville plans to hang in the store.

She says the business “is all about making good food for good people and bringing everyone together around a table.”

Cartoonist Hank Ketcham owned a ranch in Carmel Valley and was a regular at the old Rosie’s Cracker Barrel.

Carmel Valley Creamery • carmelvalleycreameryco.com 1 Esquiline Road, Carmel Valley • Open Fri–Sun 7:30am–2:30pm 831.200.9532 Kathryn McKenzie, who grew up in Santa Cruz and now lives on a Christmas tree farm in north Monterey County, writes about the environment, sustainable living and health for numerous publications and websites. She is co-author of Humbled: How California’s Monterey Bay Escaped Industrial Ruin.

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eat • play • shop

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

SEEDS OF CHANGE

Flavor-driven, sustainable vegetables are providing opportunities for local family farms

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BY LAUREL MILLER

ward-winning farm-to-table chef Dan Barber, whose book The Third Table provided a blueprint for the future of the food movement, is partnering with two Monterey Bay area farms to grow vegetables that are tastier and more nutritious.

Barber owns two acclaimed restaurants in New York and in 2018 co-founded Row 7 Seed Co. to create new plant varieties for the wholesale market and consumers.

Inspiration for the company started years earlier when Barber was working with plant breeder Michael Mazourek to develop crops for his Stone Barns farm. “He came to the restaurant for dinner, and I asked him, ‘If you’re such a great breeder, why don’t you make a butternut squash that actually tastes good?’” says Barber. “Why do we have to smother them with maple syrup or butter to make them taste good?”

Mazourek’s response shocked Barber. “He said that in all his years of breeding, no one had ever asked him to select for flavor. I had the idea, ‘What if breeders talked to chefs?’”

Row 7 sells specialty, and often organic, seeds for crops like badger flame beets, tetra squash and Beauregarde purple snow peas. These crops aren’t antique or heirloom varieties that have been handed down through the generations. Rather, Row 7 selects, develops and sells hybrid, open-pollinated (effected by pollinators, humans, wind or rain) seeds produced and selected in organic systems that are the result of modern plant breeders evolving heirloom seeds.

“Heirlooms are delicious and deserve a place at the table, but I think we should spend more time celebrating the work of modern plant breeders. These new crops taste good, but they’re also adapted to thrive in today’s environment,” says Barber.

To that end, Row 7 started working last year with Lakeside Organic Gardens in Watsonville and Spade & Plow Organics in San Martin.

“We reached out to these growers because they represent diverse approaches to farming in their region,” says Dev Patel, grower relations manager for Row 7. “Their farms are of different sizes, which allows us to scale and be flexible with more significant acreage, work with different styles of growers and strengthen community ties.”

Yield, size, color and shelf stability are more traditional requirements for crops destined for the wholesale market, says Sam Thorp, 12

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co-owner of Spade & Plow. “Row 7 seeds are still very much niche items rather than commodity crops like broccoli. It’s really hard to bring a new variety to market on a wholesale scale. It requires a lot of time and expertise.”

Row 7 launched with six seed varieties, but today sells 20 varieties and also has a branded produce business to complement the seed offerings. Row 7 produce is sold at Whole Foods stores nationwide and through wholesale partners.

To reduce the risk for trial growers, Row 7 commits to purchasing the full harvest, regardless of yield, at a premium price, as well as to handling all administration, marketing and logistics needed to get crops to consumers. If a crop fails, Row 7 will pay the growing price, so farmers still recoup expenses.

“We’re a mid-size wholesale and retail grower and it’s really challenging to grow the right amount and scale,” says Thorp. “It takes time to establish that, and Row 7 really helps us grow without the big risk.

Some of these varieties are a bit more finicky than standard hybrids, so one reason Row 7 likes to partner with small growers is because they can keep a close eye on crops.”

Larger growers like Lakeside, which farms 3,000 acres in Watsonville and 1,300 acres near El Centro, also benefit from their partnership with Row 7. “We’re able to integrate what we already grow with their specialty crops,” says owner Dick Peixoto. “We started with a quarter-acre of garleek (a mellow leek-garlic hybrid) on our 20-acre leek plot and we’re hoping to increase that next year. We practice crop rotation, which helps combat disease resistance and prevent soil depletion, so being able to blend crops helps with that.”

Lakeside also grows badger flame beets and koginut squash (a small, nutty pumpkin) for Row 7. This winter, the farm will begin trials on its desert acreage. “From my perspective, growing for Row 7 has so much potential,” says Peixoto. “We’re hoping to cultivate more varieties down the road, on increased acreage. We both prioritize flavor, so this partnership was a good fit for us both.”

While heirloom seeds are now widely available, most of the crops grown from these don’t lend themselves to the wholesale market due to their innate fragility. Row 7’s objective is to provide delicious, nutrient-dense crops that are also resilient to disease.

“Deliciousness is my number one priority, but by selecting for flavor, you’re also selecting for nutrition and the right kind of growing systems.”

Chef Dan Barber prepares a tray of honeypatch squash, bred for sweetness.

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Badger flame beets (opposite lower left) offer more large rounds per beet and garleeks (opposite lower right) are a new hybrid vegetable.

“Our 7082 cucumbers are a good example,” says Barber. “Modern cucumbers have been bred for size and sweetness, which means they lack the complexity and resilience of older varieties. Heirloom cucumbers have depth of flavor and natural disease resistance that has been lost in most commercial hybrids, so we created the 7082 seed, which is both delicious and disease resistant, making it ideal for organic and regenerative growers.”

Spade & Plow dedicates two of its 40 acres to growing garleek for Row 7’s Whole Foods accounts; the vegetables are then sold under the Row 7 label. The farm also grows Row 7’s badger flame beets, a sweet, cylindrical variety with vibrant orange flesh, for its own farmers market customers.

Thorp praises both crops for their outstanding flavor and versatility. “Garleek is like a baby leek, but it has a nice garlicky, mellow flavor and super tender tops that are similar to a garlic chive in flavor. It’s like having two crops in one, and it grows from spring into fall. The beets don’t have that ‘dirt’ flavor and they’re easy to work with due to their shape. Chefs appreciate that.”

Having a chef like Barber behind a seed company puts Row 7 into a niche of its own. “Deliciousness is my number one priority, but by selecting for flavor, you’re

also selecting for nutrition and the right kind of growing systems,” he says. “Without healthy soil, those genetics aren’t going to get turned on.”

Barber is extremely fond of Row 7’s spinach lettuce, which was created by Bill Waycott, a former Monsanto lettuce breeder who was disillusioned with “bland, watery romaine, which is the most popular American vegetable,” he says. “Our analyses show that spinach lettuce is three times as nutritious as organic romaine, but it’s depth of flavor is just as exciting. It’s succulent and pleasantly bitter; I love it raw, grilled or lightly sauteed.”

While flavor is at the crux of Row 7’s ethos, the company has a more important overarching goal. “The urgency to support regional organic farmers has never been greater, and that work has to begin with seed,” says Barber. “Organic sales might be increasing, but organic plant breeding only receives a sliver of our R&D investment.

Our goal is to catalyze more investment in organic plant breeding, and breeding varieties fit for organic systems.”

Laurel Miller is a food, spirits and travel writer and the former editor of Edible Aspen. She grew up on a California ranch where she raised rabbits and dairy goats; she has been writing about regenerative agriculture for over 20 years.

When she’s not tethered to her laptop, Miller enjoys farmers markets and any trip that requires a passport. She’ll take a Mission burrito over a Michelin star, any day.

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE

STRONG SILENT TYPES Three winemakers who speak volumes through their wines

BY LAURA NESS PHOTOGRAPHY BY GENEVA RICO

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If you were a vineyard, these are the guys you’d want as your biographer.

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he wine business is rife with characters—some gregarious and engaging, others contrarian and controversial. We love them all, as long as they make good wine and take care of their growers.

While many Napa wineries lead with the names of their famous winemakers or highly paid winemaking consultants, our region, including the San Benito, the Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey AVAs, tends to be more understated. Our winemakers, accomplished and recognized as they are, do not seek fame.

They prefer to talk about vineyards rather than themselves. Without vineyards, there is no story to tell, and wine is ultimately all about stories.

Here are three confident yet understated young men who prefer to let their wines do the talking. You could call them strong silent types.

All have worked for larger operations, so making wine on a micro scale gives them freedom to dream big dreams in small batches, where the voice of the vineyard whispers in every glass. If you were a vineyard, these are the guys you’d want as your biographer.

Two wines that define his style: 2017 Kobza Wines Crémant of Riesling, Wirz Vineyard, Cienega Valley “It’s reflective of my love for sparkling wines and the complete handson process required to do it on such a small scale.” Kobza will continue to explore sparkling wines and is expanding his portfolio. “This one, in particular, is very approachable and delicious.”

2021 Kobza Wines Redwing Vineyard Riesling, Santa Cruz Mountains “The Redwing Vineyard is a special spot for me. I’ve only had a chance to make a couple vintages of Riesling from here, but it’s an impressive site. The 2021 vintage is bright, citrusy and floral. I’m excited to release the 2022 very soon, which is definitely floral but softer around the edges and has a clean linen character that reminds me of cool climate chenin.”

Ryan Kobza: Love For Oddball Grapes Nevada born Ryan Kobza took a path to the crush pad through the kitchen, working harvest as a diversion from cooking. He ended up making 100 tons of pinot noir at Sonoma-Cutrer, then interning at Chateau Montelena, while getting his winemaking certificate. A gig at Bernardus brought him to Monterey County, where he works alongside mentor and employer Ian Brand, making wine for others. His own Kobza label is focused on old vines and lesser-known varieties.

“I love old vine riesling and mourtaou from Wirz Vineyard,” says Kobza. Dry farmed, head trained and own rooted, the grapes were planted in the mid-1960s. “Pat Wirz treats those gnarly old vines like his friends.”

Kobza describes himself as a jack of all trades who keeps his head down, works hard and tries to be better every day. Each year is a learning experience, with new obstacles. “One of my favorite aspects of the wine business is visiting vineyards after harvest when the vines are shutting down, the leaves are dropping and the rain is falling. At the end of the day, it’s about enjoying those quiet, still moments and having a sense of pride of accomplishment.”

Winemaker Ryan Kobza at Wirz Vineyard in San Benito County, one of his favorite sources of grapes.

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Keegan Mayo: The Wisdom of Patience Keegan Mayo is the winemaker at Bargetto Winery, a day job that would rattle someone less composed. But Mayo, who was born in Hawaii and raised in the cool surf of Santa Cruz, lets nothing faze him. As assistant winemaker to Bill Brosseau at Testarossa, he worked in a 19th century multilevel stone cellar that brought out his inner MacGyver.

Prior to that, he did a stint at Mumm while going to UC Davis. Working at Split Rail Vineyard for two harvests, while attending Cabrillo College, veered him onto the wine road.

“I loved working for Ron Thomasen at Split Rail. It sparked my interest and solidified it,” he says.

Mayo’s own label is Assiduous Wines and he describes his style as easygoing, but particular. “The most important characteristic of a winemaker is to have attention to detail and an artistic side, too. As I have gotten farther along, the more I lean on the art side. You lean on instinct, instead of intervention. I do a lot more cleaning and a lot less additions.”

Two wines that define his style: 2023 Assiduous Pinot Gris, Basor Vineyards, Monterey “This is my favorite white: acid driven, crisp and fun to make. It’s just a little orange from the skin contact, which gives it more structure and mouthfeel. It’s vibrant and can go with lots of foods.”

Keegan Mayo makes wine for his own Assiduous label and for Bargetto Winery in Soquel.

2021 Assiduous Pinot Noir Volkmann Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains “Pinot noir is my favorite red variety and this is so Santa Cruz Mountains; it shines. The site is a cool 2-acre backyard vineyard and I am the only one who gets fruit from it. I do 50% whole cluster and there is a eucalyptus tree nearby that adds a perfect tincture of mint. It shows who I really am.”

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Samuel L. Smith: Seeking Stellar Sites If the name Samuel L. Smith sounds familiar, it’s because he spent eight years crafting solid, award-winning wines for Morgan. As a kid in Bakersfield, he cycled with his father through endless vineyards; it became the background movie of his life. As an undergrad at UC Santa Barbara, a newfound interest in surfing led him to choose a semester abroad in Bordeaux.

“I knew it was close to the coast, and that is was famous for wine,” says Smith. In France, he fell hard for haute cuisine and wine. “I realized it encompassed infinite learning, about nature and history and chemistry. And the art.”

As for his eponymous brand, “I work with stellar sites only,” Smith says. “My mission has been to make—and now grow—wines of aromatics and structure, from organically farmed, cool-climate, mountainous sites on the Central Coast.” Among them are Coastview, Double L, Escolle and Pelio.

The wines are pristine, low alcohol and acid driven.

Some are ethereal. Others are like tightly wound steel, radiating tensile strength.

Smith describes himself as very detail oriented and goal driven. “I’m both passionate and perfectionistic, and a bit competitive. And perhaps most importantly, I’m extremely curious and love learning.”

Two wines that define his style: 2023 Samuel L. Smith Les Granitiers Chardonnay, Monterey “A very fresh, fruit- and floral-driven Chardonnay from the granitic terroirs of Monterey County, with some of that salty minerality, of course.” From Coastview, Escolle and Pelio vineyards.

2022 Samuel L. Smith Sandstone Terrace Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains “Explodes with florality and spice and bright fruit, exemplifying both my style and cool-climate Syrah’s fitness for both cold and warm vintages.” From Nelson, Gali and Coastview vineyards.

Winemaker Samuel Smith takes a barrel sample from his cellar in the Swift Street complex in Santa Cruz.

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Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Los Gatos Magazine and the Wine Industry Network, sharing stories of the intriguing characters who inhabit the world of wine and food.

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Change is good. Too much at once, though, maybe not so... That is why Bernardus has now fully restored the golden taste of the best California Chardonnay in the world. The weather conditions were great again, the label is great again and the taste: simply superior. Butter, vanilla and oak. Enjoy the glorious golden taste of Bernardus Chardonnay.

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B E RNARDUS

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

Cone Heads A chef’s secret comes to the farmers market

BY JAMIE COLLINS ILLUSTRATION BY SALLY JACOBS

C

abbage is one of the most versatile members of the brassica family, lending itself to both cooked and raw preparations. My all-time favorite variety to grow is a pointed heirloom known as arrowhead, cone or conehead, cabbage (Brassica oleracea).

You won’t find this specialty cabbage at a grocery store and it is even rarer to find it at the farmers market. Farmers who grow this interesting variety do it for the chefs and for food lovers who are interested in the flavor profile and uniqueness of this cabbage.

Arrowhead cabbage is a sweet and tender variety. The leaves make wonderful wraps and can be used in place of bread or tortillas. This variety lends itself to producing smaller heads if you plant them close together, and people often prefer a personal-size cabbage over a giant one.

Cone cabbages are an old heirloom variety, cultivated before cabbages were bred to be round and easier to mechanically process into kraut and coleslaw. And they are more flavorful than modern varieties bred for uniformity, long storage

and high yields. Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity lists the pointy cabbage on its Ark of Taste list as Filderkraut, also known as Filder—a generic name for pointed cabbage and the name of the area in Germany where the pointy cabbage originally grew and thrived.

Historical records from 1772 show that monks grew them at Denkendorf Monastery, indicating: “The white pointed cabbage is the only one which is grown in this area.

What makes it particularly appreciated is the delicate softness of its leaves, its white color and in particular a whole better taste that makes it very different from other types grown in the nearby areas.”

Obdiel Luna, executive chef at La Bicyclette in Carmel, says he had never seen a pointy variety of cabbage before finding it at my farmers market stall.

“The interesting cone shape got my attention, so I bought some to try and found it very buttery and impressive,” says Luna. He likes to sear the pointed segments and place them under a piece of halibut in French curry. (See recipe page 26)

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Arrowhead cabbage lends itself to raw applications like my favorite slaw—shredded with fresh mango slices, thinly sliced fennel and a dressing of Meyer lemon-infused mayonnaise with a bit of honey. For cooked use, I like to steam it with pot stickers and finish it with a drizzle of coconut amino acids, a splash of sesame oil and a bit of chili paste.

Joe Schirmer of Dirty Girl Produce in Watsonville likes how the texture of arrowhead cabbage is more “lettuce-y” than tough like regular head cabbage can be. He appreciates while it is the most tender cabbage, it still stores well and retains its soft texture. Schirmer plants arrowhead cabbage near his lettuces so they get more water than cabbage typically does, and spaces them close together to encourage smaller heads. Even when small, arrowheads retain their juicy, mild and sweet flavor.

Pointy cabbage, and cabbage in general, has a great texture that can be chewy and holds onto sauce in dishes. A quick go-to cabbage dish shared by a friend is delicious; simply sauté sliced cabbage in a little olive oil, salt and fresh dill. Add a maple syrup drizzle at the end.

Brad Briske from Home restaurant likes to make what he calls “Chicory Chee,” by combining radicchio with cabbage and a salt mix and allowing it to ferment at room temperature for a few weeks. The result is delicious and packs a healthy gut punch due to the bitter compounds in the radicchio and the fermentation process.

Cabbages are naturally high in fiber and an excellent source of calcium, magnesium and potassium. Of all the brassicas, cabbage contains the highest amounts of powerful antioxidants like glucosinolates, which protect against cancer. Besides containing many other important vitamins and minerals, what is most impressive is that one cup of cabbage contains 85% of the daily recommended vitamin K and 54% of the body’s need for vitamin C—more than an orange!

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Cone cabbages are an old heirloom variety, cultivated before cabbages were bred to be round and easier to mechanically process into kraut and coleslaw.

GROWING AND STORING Cone cabbage is a great addition to the garden, which includes many health benefits. It grows best in areas where temperatures are between 60° and 65°, but they can handle much colder weather, down to 20°. It is best to start cabbage from seedlings about 45 days before the outdoor planting date. Prepare your soil by loosening it well and adding some compost. If you have heavy clay or very sandy soils, cabbage won’t be happy. Plant seedlings 6 to 8 inches apart for small cone cabbage heads, or up to 12 inches for large heads. Cone cabbage will grow enormous if given the space and time. Blossom’s Farm has grown some very impressive coneheads that were 2 feet in length and weighed about 10 pounds each.

Floating row covers can help with pest issues like flea beetles and cabbage loopers. Be sure to rotate crop families in your garden to deter pests and fungal diseases, and water at the soil level instead of overhead to avoid mildew problems.

All cabbages are best stored whole in the refrigerator without a plastic bag until you are ready to use them. Remove the outer leaves if they look dry, or old and damaged.

Cabbages can be continuously peeled back and will store famously in the refrigerator for months. The leaves underneath the outer ones will still be crisp and perfect.

When we have an abundance of a certain crop, I tend to play around with it and try all of the Instagram recipes that catch my eye. This one for roasted cabbage “steak” is worthy of trying and reporting on.

I sliced an arrowhead cabbage into half-inch slices and basted the slices with melted butter infused with garlic and thyme. Next, I roasted the pieces at 375° F until they were crisp and tender. Then I added chopped pistachios (walnuts or toasted pine nuts would work well too), Parmesan, arugula and lemon zest to the top of the cooked cabbage steaks. Served hot, this was a really brilliant way to enjoy cone cabbage! I could see this dish being inspired by various cuisines and the toppings be changed to reflect that, for instance roasting the cabbage with a miso, ginger, sesame oil and dashi coating, and topping with some panko crumbs and seared fish chunks. Or an Italian-inspired olive oil blend with sundried tomatoes and oregano, topped with some finely chopped sausage and Parmesan. You get the idea—cabbage can be an amazingly healthy vehicle for tasty toppings.

Jamie Collins is the owner of Serendipity Farms. She hosts U-Picks and a Friday Farm Stand at 26500 Val Verde Drive in Carmel, and attends farmers markets in Carmel and Santa Cruz, where you can find her fresh organic fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers. Find out what is being harvested @fabulous_serendipity_farm.

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French Curry With Halibut

Courtesy Obdiel Luna, head chef, La Bicyclette Restaurant in Carmel 1 pound California halibut 1 medium yellow onion, minced 1 pinch of Espellete pepper (or chili flakes as a substitute) 1 cup of Campari tomatoes, minced (or substitute Roma tomatoes) 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 cup white wine (drink the rest of the bottle during the cooking process) 3 tablespoons Vadouvan curry spice blend 1 makrut lime leaf 4 cups clam juice 2 cups water 2 cups fresh coconut water (or coconut milk) 1 sweet potato, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons fresh basil ½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped 6 cremini mushrooms, quartered 1 arrowhead cabbage, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ cup carrots, sliced into matchsticks, for garnish Salt to taste

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To make the French curry sauce, begin by adding a few tablespoons of sunflower oil to a pan. Cook the onions over mediumlow heat to sweat, avoiding color. After 5 minutes of cooking, add Espellete pepper, tomatoes and garlic, and continue to cook on low heat. With the ingredients still in the pan, add the white wine to deglaze.

Stir slowly for a few minutes for the wine to cook down.

When the wine is almost evaporated, add the curry spice blend and allow to cook for 5 more minutes. Next, add the makrut lime leaf, clam juice, water, coconut water and sweet potato. Bring to a boil, then simmer covered for 45 minutes. Add mushrooms, cabbage, basil, cilantro (reserve a few pieces for a garnish) and cream. Simmer for 20 minutes. Add salt to taste.

Meantime, preheat oven to 350º F. In a separate pan, add a few tablespoons of sunflower oil and heat. Slice halibut into individual portions and sear with skin side up until top is golden brown. Turn halibut

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into an ovenproof pan, top with 1 tablespoon of butter and bake for 7 minutes.

Swirl lemon juice into the curry. Plate and garnish with carrots and cilantro.

Serves 4-6.

Unforgettable Serve Aged even more Aged Made with care Crafted in Spain

THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO

In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries.

Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.

This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them!

Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing

methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture.

Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table.

Learn more on our website

Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food of Spain. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them.

THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH ediblemontereybay.com QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS.

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Enjoy wine in moderation. Min. 11º Max. 12,5º

Crafted in Spain, perfected by time

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HOSTED BY BIG SUR RIVER INN Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, Big Sur River Inn is known as the place with the “chairs in the river.” But there is so much more to the family-friendly, community-minded gathering place that was started by the Pfeiffer family in 1934. There are 22 cabin-themed rooms, a spacious lawn, live music on weekends and a charming stone and timber restaurant serving contemporary California cuisine, as well as its traditional Homesteader Apple Pie made from scratch daily using the same 1930s-era recipe.

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Curated by Aga Simpson Photo by Agnieszka Kazmierczak sponsored content

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4 Fruitcake and Holy Granola New Camaldoli Hermitage | 62475 Highway 1, Big Sur @newcamaldoli1 | contemplation.com

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White Label Chocolate | Watsonville @whitelabelchocolatecompany | whitelabelchocolate.com

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and Carmel Caramels

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The Winter Table A gathering of sugar and spice made in the Monterey Bay area 7

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7 17 Mile Gin: California Botanical Sipping Gin

Whaler’s Cove Gold Rum: 2 Year Aged Agricole-Style Rum Fog’s End Distillery | Gonzales @fogs_end_distillery | fogsenddistillery.com

8 Mexican-Style Pour Over Coffee Kafen’s Café de Olla | Watsonville @kafens_ | kafens.com 9 Lion’s Mane and Oyster Mushrooms Lake Family Forest Farms | Carmel Valley @lakefamilyforestfarms | lakefamilyforestfarms.com

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Sweet Elena’s BAKING WITH THE SEASONS

Young protégé finds her footing at beloved bakery

BY AMBER TURPIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA

K

aty Matias was just 24 years old when she became the new owner of the landmark Sand City bakery Sweet Elena’s. “It’s been almost three years now, but it feels like it was yesterday,” she says.

She admits that in the beginning it was a bit overwhelming and says she was well aware of how big of a decision it was, especially for such a young person. “Sometimes I have to remind myself to take it a day at a time. I’m a little hard on myself, you know, I have some big shoes to fill!”

But Matias is quick to point out how much support she has had from Elena Salsedo Steele, the person who walked in those shoes for 30 years (and spent more than a decade before that as pastry chef at Ventana in Big Sur).

“Elena is my godmother, so being able to talk to her about things has been a great support system. I’ve been lucky to have that still. The reassurance from her, plus the customers, the positive feedback, all of that has really helped with the process,” Matias explains.

Another thing Salsedo Steele passed down was a warning.

“I love eating it all…a little too much!” admits Matias of their menu, the chocolate almond croissant being a personal favorite. “If I want something I just go and take it, because now I can do whatever I want. But Elena warned me, she knows I have a sweet tooth. She told me, ‘Be careful.’ It’s very tempting. We are popping things out of the oven all the time.”

Lucky for us at home, we can try our hand at popping something out of our home ovens courtesy of Sweet Elena’s. This seasonal quick bread, full of warming spice and bursts of bright, festive cranberries, is good at any time, day or night. It could be called “healthy” enough to pass as breakfast, packed with vegetables (winter squash) and whole wheat flour. But a slice for dessert with a cup of tea is equally enjoyable.

Amber Turpin is a freelance food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

Katy Matias with her mom Dolores Cruz in the kitchen at Sweet Elena’s

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Pumpkin Ginger Loaf

Courtesy Katy Matias, chef-owner, Sweet Elena’s Artisan Bakery and Café in Sand City 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 1½ cups (or 1 15-ounce can) pumpkin or winter squash purée 1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 2 eggs ¼ cup oil ¼ cup orange juice 1¼ cups whole wheat pastry flour ½ cup fresh or frozen cranberries Preheat the oven to 325° F. Prepare 9x5-inch loaf pan by coating it with a generous layer of oil, butter or cooking spray, topped with a strip of parchment paper with the edges overhanging slightly.

In a small bowl combine the baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg.

In a medium mixing bowl stir together the pumpkin purée, sugar and ginger until well combined. Add the leavening and spice mixture and mix well.

Add the eggs to the pumpkin mixture, one at a time, to incorporate thoroughly. Then add the oil and orange juice and mix well.

ALL THE SEASONAL ICE CREAM FLAVORS AND MORE

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EAST LAKE VILLAGE Sprinkle the pastry flour gradually into the batter, gently folding to avoid clumps until fully combined.

Pour ½ the batter into the prepared loaf pan, then sprinkle in ½ the cranberries, followed by the remainder of the batter and then top with the remainder of the cranberries.

Bake for 40–55 minutes. When done, remove loaf from the oven and immediately transfer to cool on a wire baking rack (this is where the generous greasing and parchment paper are key).

Makes 1 loaf.

Tips & Tricks The oven temperature is low for a reason. This batter is pretty thick so you want to be sure you are baking it through. And the higher protein content in the whole wheat flour is denser, so baking low and slow is the best way to avoid a thick crust on the outside of the loaf.

Gateway to the Pajaro Valley

You can use canned pumpkin purée or any cooked winter squash like butternut, buttercup or kabocha, all of which add a deeper flavor. It’s a great way to use locally grown ingredients. You can even use sweet potatoes. But if you use a squash or potato that is especially sweet, lower the amount of sugar a bit in the recipe.

If the cooked squash seems to contain a lot of moisture, set the flesh in a strainer for an hour to drain the extra liquid. You want a thick purée for this recipe.

Using fresh ginger is definitely recommended. We like to peel and then blend the ginger into a paste with a tiny bit of water or with the orange juice to help during the mixing process. But you can grate the ginger using a microplane as well.

Stick a toothpick into the middle of the loaf around the 30 minute mark and if it comes out clean, then the loaf is fully baked. If the toothpick has batter residue on it when you pull it out, then continue to bake at 10 minute increments to avoid drying the loaf during the baking process.

Fresh cranberries give the loaf an extra balance of sweet and tart.

Once baked, immediately remove the loaf from the pan to avoid extra cooking and moisture at the bottom of the pan. This is where using parchment paper is ideal, so you can just lift it out by grabbing the overhanging excess paper. Letting it cool on a wire rack is best, to let air flow in all directions.

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Let loaf rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing, to avoid breakage.

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LOCAL FOODS

in Season

Opens at 8am daily

DECEMBER, JANUARY, FEBRUARY FRUITS Apples • Asian Pears • Avocados • Grapefruits • Grapes • Guavas • Kiwis Kumquats • Lemons • Limes • Mandarins • Oranges • Parsnips • Pears Persimmons • Pomegranates* • Pomelos

VEGETABLES

Senior Discount Mondays 10% off purchases

Artichokes* • Arugula • Asparagus** • Beets • Bok Choy • Broccoli Broccoli Raab • Brussels Sprouts • Burdock • Cabbage • Cardoons • Carrots Cauliflower • Celeriac • Celery • Chard • Chicory • Collards • Cress • Dandelion Endive • Fava Greens • Fennel • Garlic • Horseradish • Kale • Kohlrabi • Leeks Mushrooms • Mustard Greens • Nettles • Onions • Orach • Parsnips • Potatoes Radishes • Rutabagas • Salsify* • Shallots • Spinach • Sprouts • Winter Squash Sunchokes • Sweet Potatoes • Turnips

The only locally-owned natural food store in Aptos & Seascape

SEAFOOD

excludes sale items and alcohol

Abalone • Anchovies • Cabezon • Dungeness Crab • Rock Crab Starry Flounder • Pacific Grenadier • Herring • Lingcod • Rock Cod, aka Rockfish Sablefish, aka Black Cod • Pacific Sanddabs • Dover Sole • Petrale Sole Rex Sole • Spot Prawns * December only ** February only All fish listed are rated “Best Choice” or “Good Alternative” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program.

Natural Foods • Organic Produce Supplements • Wellness Local Products • Gifts Bulk Foods • Herbs • Teas • Wine

Aptos Foods 7506 Soquel Drive, Aptos 831-621-6748 34

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JACKS MONTEREY & PETER B’S BREWPUB

DOWNTOWN DINING IN THE HEART OF MONTEREY

JACKS MONTEREY

PETER B’S BREWPUB

California Cuisine

Monterey’s Original Craft Brewery

Locally sourced ingredients paired with award-winning wine and cocktails

Serving award-winning craft beer with a pub style menu and sports on 18 HDTV’s

Breakfast: 6:30am to 10:30am Dinner: 4pm to 10pm

Happy Hour: 4pm to 6pm & 9pm to 10pm peterbsbrewpub.com

jacksatportola.com

Two Portola Plaza | Monterey, CA 93940 Complimentary Parking

(831) 649-4511 portolahotel.com ediblemontereybay.com

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e z e e u sq

Y A D E H T

10% of profits go back to the community

With fresh & organic seasonal citrus at New Leaf, it’s easy to stay healthy this winter. Great for snacking, juicing, or pair with sustainable seafood for a fresh, heart healthy dish.

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Half Moon Bay • Capitola Santa Cruz • Aptos edible MONTEREY BAYWestside WINTER 2024

Felton

M O N T E R E Y BAY

Farmers Market Markets

Scotts Valley

S A N TA C R U Z C O U N T Y | W I N T E R 2 0 2 4

Capitola

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Aptos

Santa Cruz

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Winter is on the way and those fall heat waves are just a memory,

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but one that will hopefully work as an interior radiator for us on the cold

Corralitos

nights to come. For those of us who start feeling the fingers of Seasonal

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Watsonville

Affective Disorder (SAD) as the light wanes and the clouds cover, these

winter months can be a little tough. But this community, collective

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hot soup will get us through. A festive treat never hurts either!

Wednesday 1 Downtown Santa Cruz Farmers Market

1pm-5pm • Year-round Lincoln and Cedar Streets • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

Saturday 3

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Friday

Aptos Certified Farmers Market

8am–Noon • Year-round 6500 Soquel Drive • 831.728.5060 montereybayfarmers.org

Westside Santa Cruz Market

9am–1pm • Year-round 2801 Mission Street • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

nourishment in the form of our farmers markets and a bowl or two of

Sunday Live Oak Farmers Market

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9am–1pm • Year-round 15th and East Cliff Drive • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org 6

Corralitos Farm & Garden Market

11am–3pm • Year-round 127 Hames Road • 831.724.1332 wayne@catalyst2001.com

tear out and keep 

2 Watsonville Certified Farmers Market

2–7pm • Year-round Watsonville City Plaza, Peck & Main Streets 831.588.7366 facebook.com/watsonvillefarmersmarket

Thank You to Our Sponsor See opposite side for

Monterey & San Benito Counties

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M O N T E R E Y BAY

Farmers Market Markets

Santa Cruz

MONTEREY COUNTY | WINTER 2024

Monday

Saturday

Pacific Grove Certified Farmers Market

7 Old Town Salinas Farmers Market

4–7pm • Year-round Alvarado Street • 831.655.2607 oldmonterey.org

Thursday 3

Carmel–by-the-Sea Farmers Market

10am–2pm • Year-round 6th and Mission Streets 831.402.3870 • goodrootsevents.com 4

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Sunday 8 Carmel Valley Certified Farmers Market

Marina Certified Farmers Market 9

Salinas

10am–2pm • Year-round 215 Reservation Road • 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

Marina

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Pacific Grove 2

Seaside

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Monterey

Friday

Soledad

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Seaside Certified Farmers Market

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Monterey Certified Farmers Market

Carmel

8am–noon • Year-round 1410 Del Monte Center 831.728.5060 • montereybayfarmers.org

See opposite side for Santa Cruz County 38 edible MONTEREY BAY WINTER 2024

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9

Castroville Farmers Market

3–7pm • Year-round Laguna Grande Regional Park 1259 Canyon del Rey Blvd.

831.384.6961 • everyonesharvest.org

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Hollister

Castroville

10am–2pm • Year-round Mid-Valley Shopping Center 550 Carmel Valley Road 650.290.3549 • wcfma.org

3−7:30PM • Year-round Castroville Recreation Center 11261 Crane Street ncrpd.org 5

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Carmel Valley 8

tear out and keep  Watercolor Map : Katie Doka Illustration

Old Monterey Marketplace & Farmers Market 2

Tuesday

9am–2pm • Year-round 300 block Main Street 650.815.8760 wcfma.org/salinas

3–6pm • Year-round Central and Grand Avenues 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

Moss Landing

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eat • drink • stay

lift your spirit

IN THE KITCHEN

Chocolate All the world loves a trendy cup

STORY AND RECIPES BY ANALUISA BÉJAR PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA

F

ood history is splattered with trends. Yes, sometimes they make us want to roll our eyes, but it’s not fair to be dismissive. Novelty is often silly, but new things can lead us down wonderful paths.

Take for example, that time when people of all walks of life started drinking a special beverage all day long in special cups that everyone just had to have. Sounds like the latest social media wave.

But, in fact, it was everyday life in Colonial Mexico, as people came together several times a day around foamy, steaming mugs of chocolate. Loving chocolate that much is not really rational, but then, so many things are not.

Although there are earlier vestiges, Mayans were the first to domesticate the cacao plant. The fruits were collected, and the beans were fermented, toasted and finely ground.

The resulting powder was combined with hot water, strained and poured to create foam. The foam is essential to tasting, as it creates aeration that allows us to perceive all the complex aromatic compounds a good chocolate can have. The beverage was served hot or cold, and sometimes combined with masa, honey, vanilla bean, annatto, flowers or chiles.

Through trade, it became known and enjoyed by the Aztecs and the rest of the continent. It was one of the first gifts the Spanish conquerors received when disembarking, and they took it back home.

According to Salvador Novo—one of the greatest Mexican food writers—the encounter of both cultures was a fortunate one, at least from a culinary perspective. Cacao benefited from the addition of sugar and milk, and later from European processing techniques.

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People were so serious about their chocolate in Colonial Mexico that they took special plates with affixed cups, called mancerinas, to mass with them. These plates were designed to hold the hot chocolate in place while leaving room for cookies without risking anything falling off, even while traveling, or if you had shaky hands, hence the French name for these dishes, tasses trembleuses.

A bishop in Chiapas tried to prohibit chocolate drinking during mass, claiming it was a distraction and broke churchgoers’ fast. People protested; he experienced a mysterious death. A few years later, in 1636, Antonio de Leon wrote one of the most interesting books on chocolate titled Moral Question: Whether Chocolate Breaks the Ecclesiastic Fast. It justifies, in an almost poetic way, how chocolate is good for mood and attention, and concludes it did not break the fast because it is just a beverage. The book ends with several health remedies and chocolate recipes, to be enjoyed hot or cold.

Meanwhile, in Europe, hot chocolate houses were opening everywhere. Each country varied the recipe slightly. Even nowadays, the Parisian chocolat chaud, sipped preferably at a sidewalk café, is served so impossibly thick that it can practically hold up a spoon vertically in the cup. In Madrid, where folks at odd hours dip churros into a cup of hot chocolate, the line between sauce and drink is blurry. In Vienna you usually need to work through a cloud of whipped cream to get to the bitter silky mix; while in New York, there are always related novelties, like torched marshmallow rims.

Latin American capitals have delicious variations, even the odd cheese cubes added in Colombia. Japan has many beanto-bar-to-cup offerings, with interesting additions like miso.

The list goes on.

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The traditional Mexican way to prepare chocolate for drinking is to hand or stone grind toasted cacao beans with sugar, vanilla and other flavorings. The most conventional are sugar, almonds and cinnamon; if you are a purist, add a pinch of chili powder. Even now, you can have cacao ground to order in Oaxaca with your choice of additions. Artisanal grinding is the reason traditional Mexican drinking chocolate tends to be slightly gritty.

When preparing this drink at home, it is important to make the distinction between hot cocoa and hot chocolate. The first is made with powdered cocoa, sugar and milk, while the second, much richer, is made by melting chocolate into milk or water. Both get interesting with additions: cardamom, star anise, clove, cinnamon, pistachio, ginger, peppermint, salted caramel, cognac, whisky, citrus, ancho chili powder, passionfruit. A huge chunk of the fun is to experiment and perhaps be the first to ride a new wave. Trends are part of an ongoing dialogue. Answers enrich the conversation, and when we add our own accents, the end result is ideas that improve our lives.

Analuisa Béjar loves exploring flavor routes as the chef at her Sunny Bakery Cafe in Carmel Valley.

She is a recent transplant from Mexico City, where she was a food critic, award-winning writer, editor, recipe developer, culinary teacher and the organizer of a Latin American gastronomy competition.

Mexican Chocolate Almond Cookies

These cookies combine all the traditional hot chocolate flavors in an ethereal crispy bite. You can sandwich them with the ganache or apricot jam or skip the ganache and simply roll warm cookies in cinnamon sugar. For best results, allow the delicate dough to chill before rolling out and baking.

For the cookies 400 grams almonds 454 grams butter 264 grams powdered sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 egg 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 500 grams flour For the cinnamon ganache 1 stick Mexican (Ceylon or Sri Lanka) cinnamon 300 grams cream Pinch of salt 340 grams dark chocolate, finely chopped For the cookies, heat oven to 350º F. Place almonds in a baking pan, and bake for 8 minutes or until lightly toasted. Allow to cool. Grind toasted almonds into a fine powder using a mixer or food processor.

In a mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the butter with the almonds, sugar and salt until soft. Incorporate the egg and vanilla extract. Mix in flour, being careful not to overwork it.

Flatten dough into a disc and cover with plastic. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.

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Roll out dough to ¼-inch thickness and cut 2-inch rounds out of it. Refrigerate cut out cookies for 30 minutes, then bake at 350º F for 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool on wire racks.

Meantime, make the cinnamon ganache.

Break cinnamon stick into smaller pieces.

Place in a small saucepan with cream and salt. Heat until it simmers. Allow to cool for 5 minutes.

Strain cream mixture into chocolate and stir until it melts. Keep stirring until the mixture is smooth, warming over low heat if necessary. Allow to cool to room temperature.

Drizzle ganache over 1 side of the cookies.

Place a dollop of filling between 2 unfrosted sides, sandwich together and serve. Makes 20 sandwich cookies.

PRO TIPS: The cinnamon sold in stores as Mexican is from Sri Lanka and has a milder floral flavor than the commonly sold cassia powder. A generous pinch of ancho chili powder makes a great addition to the ganache.

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Mexican Hot Chocolate

Commercial Mexican-style hot chocolate is found in many grocery stores. It tends to be sugary, but you can balance it with a little cocoa powder.

There are also great artisanal chocolate options that only need to be melted into milk or water.

This recipe allows you to adjust the flavor balance to individual taste. To achieve a frothy drink, the best tool to use is a Mexican wooden molinillo, but a whisk or immersion blender work, too.

2 4 1 1 2 1

cups milk ounces dark chocolate tablespoon cocoa powder stick Mexican cinnamon (or 1 teaspoon finely ground) tablespoons toasted almonds, finely ground teaspoon ancho chili powder

Simmer all ingredients together in a small saucepan. Use a whisk or blender to create a thick foam before serving. Makes 2 cups.

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FOOD AS MEDICINE

PEAK BENEFICIAL

MUSHROOM IS HERE And we’re going higher

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK C. ANDERSON

T

he time is now.

That’s the most penetrating point Paul Stamets makes in the course of an hourplus interview about the power of beneficial mushrooms.

Which is saying something, because the planet’s pre-eminent minister of mycology covers a lot of ground, including one of his favorite literal refrains: “In a single cubic inch of soil, there can be more than 8 miles of mycelium cells… my foot is covering approximately 300 miles of mycelium.”

To wit, he hits on psilocybin’s vast promise: “The opportunity of people having access is huge; it’s time for us to be adults about this.”

He touches on the curative gains mushrooms continue to unlock: “Several hundred compounds are uniquely found in fungi. They are molecular wizards! They’re miniature pharmaceutical factories!”

He celebrates the sacred cooperation between human and bacterial cells: “We’re all assemblages of microbes cooperating as a ‘unit’ and…it’s really quite spiritual. The more

science delves into the microbiome or the cosmos, the more we’re in this exquisite dance of complexity, this ebb and flow of forces.”

But more than anything, he emphasizes the weight of the current moment, and it’s not just because he’s touring on the topic of “Psilocybin Mushrooms, Bridging Cultures Across Continents: Creating the Paradigm Shift in Consciousness.” (He appeared at Golden State Theatre in Monterey on Nov. 14, after this went to press.)

Now represents a tipping point of sorts, wherein he feels humans have become familiar enough with the superpowers of fungi that they’re ready, open and willing to witness—and embrace—the true might of the mushroom kingdom.

In the teaser to his Golden State talk, Stamets and his team point out that “more than 161 universities and institutions have been approved for psilocybin clinical studies ranging from treating depression to Alzheimer’s to addiction,” and that the Food and Drug Administration designated psilocybin “a breakthrough therapy” years ago.

Reishi mushrooms grow at Far West Fungi in Moss Landing and can increasingly be found in adaptogenic drinks as well as supplements.

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Meanwhile Oregon and Colorado have legalized psychedelics, and institutions like the new UC Berkeley Center for the Science of Psychedelics are dedicated to studying psilocybin’s impact on cognition, perception and emotion. Here at home, Santa Cruz was the third city in the country to decriminalize psychedelics for personal use and the Santa Cruz Psychedelic Society hosts regular activities like Psychedelic Peer Integrations, Microdosing Hikes and Psychedelic First Fridays.

“We’re at a precipice,” Stamets says.

“It’s all hands on deck.”

He cites a peer-reviewed paper published in research journal Nature this July as additional evidence. In it, lead author Joshua Siegel and company find, “A single dose of psilocybin, a psychedelic that acutely causes distortions of space-time

edible MONTEREY BAY WINTER 2024

perception and ego dissolution, produces rapid and persistent therapeutic effects in human clinical trials.”

That all happens in concert with the wider rise of “functional,” “medicinal” or (in Stamets’ preferred parlance) “beneficial” mushrooms across the consumer landscape. There are microdoses available via mail order, vitality- and immunityboosting mushroom powder blends at the grocery store, chaga in your cappuccino with mushroom-based Laird Superfood creamer, even Nutra Thrive reishi supplements for your dog or cat too.

But while Stamets is all about capitalizing on current momentum, he does pause to remind listeners this is nothing novel.

“This is a great reawakening,” he says.

“We are now rediscovering what our ancestors long ago knew.”

“When it comes to the power of the fungi family, we’re only starting to touch on the benefits.”

MOSS LANDING GROWN The Garrone family has been in the mushroom growing business long enough that owners John and Toby knew Stamets well before he became a bestselling author, touring speaker or deployer of 20-plus myceliumbased patents for natural pesticides, filtration systems and antiviral compounds.

“Back then they were nerds, the geeks of the crowd,” laughs Ian Garrone, John and Toby’s son and CEO of Far West Fungi. “[They] were oddballs, and mushrooms

Paul Stamets’ TED Talk “Six ways mushrooms can save the world” has 8.9 million views and represents required viewing for all earthlings, let alone mycelium lovers. (Photo below: Pamela Kryskow)

were only a little cool. There definitely was a mushroom following, especially in the Bay Area, which is where my parents started selling at farmers markets, out of their van, as one of the first organic growers.”

They’ve also been doing it long enough that they’re now on the third generation of family helping grow Far West Fungi’s reach—grandkids help run farmers markets stalls and are among 14 family members on staff—and long enough that they can remember when the only fungi they could move were white mushrooms.

“And that was it,” John Garrone says. He mentions this while navigating 60,000 square feet of growing space of Far West’s 8-acre Moss Landing facility, striding past row after loaded row of white, yellow and glow-

ing pink oyster mushrooms, sturdy shiitake mushrooms, fuzzy lion’s mane mushrooms, bulbous shiitake mushrooms and woody reishi mushrooms.

The family operation has flourished to the point the sawdust for grow-blocks comes on a semi-truck at least 100 feet long. They appear at 18 different Monterey and San Francisco Bay Area farmers markets every week and their goodies—or better yet, the inventory at their downtown Santa Cruz store or Ferry Building space—unlock a universe of possibilities.

There are hyper fresh mushrooms—including king trumpets, maitakes, morels, baby shiitakes, shimejis, cordyceps—available at a fraction of what they cost at Whole Foods, and tall jars of dried chanterelles, candy caps and lobster mushrooms too.

Depending on which store you’re visiting, that’s only the beginning—there are spawn plugs, liquid culture syringes, take home minimushroom farms, imported porcini bullion, mushroom zest, vintage mushroom tea towels, t-shirts, mugs, reishi earrings and a mini bookstore with tomes like Fantastic Fungi Community Cookbook, The Mushroom Hunter’s Kitchen and Stamets’ own Mycelium Running.

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“We have a very interesting and eclectic inventory,” says Santa Cruz FWF sales associate Sam Pine.

In Santa Cruz, you can even grab prepared dishes like tree oyster-king trumpetcrimini empanadas or the olfactory tractor beam of a truffle grilled cheese, featuring four types of mushrooms, Monterey Jack, pesto and tomato jam.

But a sizable non-culinary category now joins the stockpile. After selling its healthboosting mushrooms for years, only recently has Far West Fungi added tinctures to its offerings, to be taken orally, like shiitake, reishi, cordyceps, lion’s mane, maitake, turkey tail, chaga and a blended medley.

The corresponding gummies arrived this year, in a rainbow of colors: orange (guava-turkey tail), green (lime-lion’s mane), purple (huckleberry-reishi) and pink (a mix of all three, and Ian’s go-to).

“We originally went a different direction than Paul—he saw the writing on the wall, and had more faith, while we gathered our cues from customers, and kept learning,” Ian says. “When we heard customers’ doctors were recommending reishi, or turkey tail, or lion’s mane, we thought, ‘If they’re in need, we’re producing.’ Now we’re all back in on medicinal.”

Ferry Building assistant manager TJ de 50

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Laveaga ticks off some noted benefits of favorites like turkey tail (which uplifts the immune system) and lion’s mane (“It looks like a brain, and it’s good for your brain,” he says).

“A lot of people swear by our medicinal offerings,” he adds.

Hitting new peaks for both function and flavor, while impressive, isn’t the most dramatic evidence that Far West’s time is also now, beyond the fact this Thanksgiving season represented its most prolific cultivated mushroom sales spike yet. This year FWF introduced two major productions to help spread the mycelium gospel.

The first-ever Santa Cruz Mountain Mushroom Festival popped with presentations, cooking demonstrations and tastings, foraging walks and curated art exhibits over two days last May. The inaugural Ferry Building Mushroom Festival followed in October with four days of programming including a Mushroom Masquerade and talks from the likes of Maria Finn, who published her own love note to mushrooms earlier this year, Forage. Gather. Feast.: 100+ Recipes from West Coast Forests, Shores, and Urban Spaces.

“Bringing together all these little pockets of mycologists—maybe they’re into

wild foraging, or cultivating, or functional, or art, or psychedelics, or building materials and clothing micro textures, or the culinary side,” Ian Garrone says. “We’re starting to form one bigger industry where everyone has their stake, and we’re all raising the bar.”

Chris Hobbs, a clinician, botanist, mycologist, research scientist, fourth generation herbalist and author behind Medicinal Mushrooms: The Essential Guide, appeared at both festivals.

The subtitle of Medicinal Mushrooms sets the parameters appropriately broad for what the humble spores can accomplish: “Boost Immunity, Improve Memory, Fight Cancer, Stop Infection, and Expand Your Consciousness.”

The fact that they taste great makes for a happy, and perhaps spiritual, convergence, as he writes in a post on his website about “Mushroom Medicine”: “Is it serendipity that mushrooms that are edible and nutritious contain compounds that stimulate the immune system?”

Lion’s mane mushroom (opposite) is an ingredient in the green gummies below, which are taken like vitamins.

MUSHROOMS IN THE KITCHEN Westside Santa Cruz resident, South London native and Far West Fungi fan Paula Grainger has been practicing medical herbalism (after earning a degree in it at prestigious University of Westminster), crafting personalized wellness plans for clients, teaching classes like Garden Apothecary and blogging as The English Herbalist for decades.

“Connecting people and plants brings me so much joy,” she says.

Her mushroom moment also happens right now. As this issue hit newsstands, she’s debuting a cookbook called Nature’s Apothecary: Harness the Healing Power of Herbs, Mushrooms and Other Adaptogens, which inspires her to file two disclaimers.

One, mushrooms aren’t plants, but they still bring her great joy, and she shares it with recipes for a cordyceps espresso martini, astragalus-reishi immuneboosting chicken broth, barbecued oyster mushrooms, and lion’s mane chowder (See recipe page 54) “They’re closer to animals in the way they function,” she says, noting mushrooms placed in sunlight will manufacture vitamin D, like humans. “They’re just fascinating beings.”

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Two, while she’s very familiar with lifechanging qualities of, say, reishi—“It is called ‘the plant of immortality’ in China”—she stops short of assigning them omnipotence.

“Nothing is a cure-all that works every time,” she says. “But for most people, most of the time, there’s certainly a mushroom they can start taking that would be helpful.

I’m not in the business of setting unrealistic expectations, but I see the extraordinary difference mushrooms can make.”

That care in messaging comes through in Nature’s Apothecary, a 176-page guide that builds upon a previous book Adaptogens, with a strong focus on mycological intel.

“It’s really helpful to get good up-to-date information about medicinal mushrooms out there, because I think there’s more and more awareness of the benefits, but still a lot of confusion about what is best,” she says. “Fortunately with much greater public awareness comes research, which is adding scientific validation, and allows me to back up what I’m doing with solid science.”

Her recipes pair with straightforward insight that empowers as much as it illuminates, with clear and handy subsections for each mushroom, titled “Who is it for?” “How to take it,” “Need to know” and “Good to know.”

“Accessibility and ease for people to navigate were important to me,” she says. “That’s partly because it’s something people will dip into, so I organized it to allow for that.”

She does hasten to add, though, that while

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Mushrooms are expanding from the produce aisles to the wellness sections of area markets.

beneficial mushrooms are enjoying unprecedented visibility, she believes the upswing has only begun.

“When it comes to the power of the fungi family, we’re only starting to touch on the benefits,” she says.

“There is so much to learn.”

That refrain resonates with each of the protagonists in this piece.

Ian Garrone notes Far West has started working on testing new tinctures and extracts with Christopher Hobbs to better harmonize Western science with Eastern wisdom.

“We’re working on some headier stuff, and for me Hobbs is on the forefront,” Garrone says. “This is great stuff. Let’s start promoting it, get the best strains available and get as much information about it as we can because, unfortunately, there’s still not a lot of information.

But it’s getting better as we’re seeing this huge interest and boom. It’s a fascinating time.”

While Stamets remains vigilant around mycelium’s healing promise for people, he sees profound opportunity beyond mankind.

“We have a very human-centric point of

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view, asking ‘What can mushrooms do for me?’” he says. “We don’t ask, ‘What can mushrooms do for nature?’ They can help ecosystems, biodiversity and sustainability, against ever-changing forces like fires, construction and climate change.”

Implicit in his challenge is the reminder that, when it comes to maximizing mushroom magic, there’s no time like the present.

Mark C. Anderson is a roving reporter, photographer and columnist.

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Courtesy Paula Grainger, herbalist If this story accomplishes just one thing, it could be this: Lion’s mane mushrooms can amaze in multiple ways.

Taking lion’s mane regularly knocks back anxiety and depression while upping cognitive function.

Sprinkle on a little Old Bay seasoning, pan fry this kingly mushroom, and you have vegan “crab” for tacos or pasta.

Grainger likes it in this creamy chowder because it has “a mild, sweet flavor and makes an excellent alternative to seafood,” she says. Bonus tips from the chef-herbalist: Waxy potatoes hold their shape best during cooking, and you can substitute vegetable stock and non-dairy creamer to make this recipe vegan.

6 3 1 2 2

strips bacon, chopped (optional) tablespoons butter white or yellow onion, chopped celery sticks, finely chopped medium-sized carrots, chopped into ¼-inch cubes 8 ounces fresh lion’s mane, torn or chopped into ¾-inch pieces 2 tablespoons plain flour 16 ounces chicken stock (or vegetable stock) 1 pound white or yellow potatoes, chopped into ¾-inch cubes 1 bay leaf Sprig of fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried 8 ounces heavy cream (or non-dairy alternative) Chives, chopped, for garnish (optional)

Remove from the heat and sprinkle the flour over top of mixture. Gently stir to ensure everything is coated with flour.

Heat a large saucepan or enamel pot and gently fry the bacon (if using) until the fat has rendered and the bacon is crispy.

To serve, spoon the chowder into bowls and sprinkle with reserved bacon bits and chopped chives. Serves 6.

Carefully remove the bacon from the pan and set aside, leaving as much of the fat in the pan as possible.

Reprinted with permission from Nature’s Apothecary by Paula Grainger. (November 26th, 2024, Octopus Books)

Melt the butter in the same pan and add the onion, celery and carrots. If you are not using bacon, add ½ teaspoon salt.

Cook over low heat for around 5 minutes until the onion is translucent and the vegetables have softened. Be careful not to let onion brown.

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Add the chopped lion’s mane mushrooms and cook over a medium heat. Move the mushrooms around with a wooden spoon, being gentle to avoid breaking them up too much. Cook until they are very lightly browned on the edges.

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Return the pan to a lowish heat and add a little stock, stirring to incorporate it into the pan contents. Add more stock a little at a time to make sure everything is creamy and there are no lumps of flour.

Add the rest of the stock.

Add the potatoes and pop in the bay leaf and thyme. Give everything a stir.

Cover the pan and simmer gently until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 15 minutes but time will depend on the potatoes you have used. Stir in the cream and simmer for a couple more minutes to warm.

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EDIBLE NOSTALGIA

Memories of an Italian-American Christmas Eve

BY LAURA M. HOLSON ILLUSTRATION BY TINA FULLER SOMERS

A

s a teen growing up in Santa Cruz, I used to watch the fishing boats every December sail past the edges of the Monterey Bay and return hours later, their coolers filled with whatever the ocean gave up that day. Perch.

Cod. Dungeness crab. Some fishermen caught sardines if there was a mid-winter run. My family would head to the wharf to peruse this bounty, taking home buckets of fish to prepare on Christmas Eve. While Thanksgiving was a distinctly American celebration in our home, with turkey, stuffing and pumpkin pie, Christmas Eve was all about seafood and Italy. About 1.26 million people in California say they have Italian roots, according to

the U.S. Census Bureau. And like many Italian-Americans, including those around the Monterey Bay whose families emigrated from Sicily and southern Italy, my family observed “La Vigilia di Natale,” or the Feast of the Seven Fishes. Ours was a celebration of the coastal culture our Sicilian grandparents left behind and sought to recreate here.

Boiled crabs were cracked over sheets of newspaper. Tomato sauce bubbled on the stove. Chunks of white fish were folded into cioppino. All of it, including the crusty loaves baked in my grandmother’s brick oven, was washed down with tumblers filled with red wine my grandfather stored in jugs in his garage. After our bellies were full, we would change into dresses and suits and head to Midnight Mass.

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Theories abound as to why the meal called for seven types of seafood. God created the world in seven days, some people say, and Rome was built on seven hills. Roman Catholics, too, observe seven holy sacraments. (I believe cooking is the eighth. I mean, have you ever tasted a silken marinara perfumed with garlic and oregano?) For most people, though, the number of dishes is only a suggestion. The meal is a touchstone to what is prized in Italian culture: good food and family, whatever that looks like. In a 2023 episode of The Bear, for example, forks fly and pans topple off counters at a Christmas Eve meal gone awry. A 2019 movie (aptly titled Feast of the Seven Fishes) delights in the hijinks of an extended Italian family gathered for one poignant night.

It is no wonder then that I am captivated by this annual tradition. I recently talked with Anthony Carnazzo, who owns the restaurant Stationaery in Carmel-by-the-Sea with his wife, Alissa. Since opening Stationaery in 2018, they have offered a Feast of the Seven Fishes menu for a few nights every December. Carnazzo grew up on Spaghetti Hill in Monterey, a third-generation Italian whose great-grandparents emigrated from outside Catania. He recalled spending Christmas Eve elbow-to-elbow at his grandmother’s table alongside aunts, uncles and a brood of cousins. There, empty plates of antipasti were whisked off the table as soon as they were scraped clean, to be replaced with new ones: grilled calamari, handmade ravioli and crab legs.

“It was beautiful chaos,” said Carnazzo. “It was noisy and boisterous, and there was a seat for everyone. Food just kept coming out of the kitchen.”

For years I have chased this beautiful chaos. In 2013, friends invited me to spend Christmas with them in Rome. I had one request: While the Feast of the Seven Fishes is an Italian-American tradition, I wanted to experience something like it in Rome. So, they took me to Assunta Madre, a restaurant in the Trastevere neighborhood known for its exquisite fish. There, a big-bellied man wearing a black polo shirt stood guard at the front desk. Photos of celebrities, among them Robert DeNiro and Brad Pitt, hung on the walls. Our dinner, it turned out, would be a formal affair, nothing like home where we cracked crab at the kitchen table.

The man who greeted us pointed to several white Styrofoam coolers placed near the front door that were filled with flounder, halibut and tuna. This, he said with a flourish,

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JULIA’S was the freshest fish we would find in Rome. Ten tables were crammed in the front of the restaurant, with more in back. He seated us upfront. A woman in a black organza gown, her hem spread out like a fishtail, sashayed past us, a baby in her arms. “I can’t believe she just had a baby,” said my friend in awe. Another woman wore a mink stole and red gown that was so long it trailed two inches behind her. Her neck and arms were wrapped in enormous pearls, like a mermaid washed up from the sea to our table.

Dinner came in courses, starting with oysters and a plate of tuna tartar so fresh it dissolved in the mouth. It was followed by seafood risotto and a grilled whole fish, which our server had fetched from one of the Styrofoam boxes and showed us before whisking it away to the kitchen. Next came grilled zucchini and sliced eggplant, and a salad of arugula and tomatoes we barely touched because we were so full. Our waiter demanded we have dessert. He brought us a plate with panettone, nougat and a dense sponge cake drizzled with chocolate.

Carnazzo said Stationaery experimented with a formal menu its first year, but has opted instead for the homey eat-what-you-want plates of his youth. There is always crab on the menu. And in years past, the restaurant’s chef, Amalia Scatena, who studied cooking in Florence, has served spaghetti with clams; Monterey spot prawn with tomatillo, lime and cilantro; and a root vegetable and apple soup with Dungeness crab and brown butter. (See recipe page 60) In 2016, a few years after my Roman sojourn, I decided to create a Feast of the Seven Fishes of my own that was worthy of both my childhood and our Italian banquet. I was living in Manhattan then and, because New York has a large Italian-American population, I knew authentic ingredients would be easy to find. I took the subway to Arthur Avenue, New York’s Little Italy in the Bronx, for hand-dipped ricotta and imported cheeses. I bought a whole salmon that I stuffed with herbs I grew on my rooftop. For the pasta course, I tossed shrimp, calamari and Long Island scallops with tomatoes. Anchovies gave the Caesar salad dressing tang. For the antipasti, I roasted eggplant, tomatoes and olives. As you might imagine, there was fresh crab too.

Like at Assunta Madre in Rome, the meal was a formal affair, with a printed menu describing each dish. But the atmosphere was relaxed because my friends and I were at home. Italian Christmas carols played on the stereo. We toasted and shouted “buon natale” between every course. Most of my guests had never eaten a feast like this. A neighbor, curious after hearing so much laughter, knocked on the door, a bottle of wine in hand. He was just in time for dessert.

Over the course of two weeks, I had crisscrossed Manhattan in search of the perfect sfogliatella, a delicately layered Italian pastry shaped like a clam shell and stuffed with sweet ricotta filling. After visits to several bakeries, I brought home a dozen from Veniero’s, an East Village institution founded in 1894 and where Frank Sinatra used to buy his pastries too.

As I opened the box, I realized that I had served only six types of seafood that night.

Oh no, I thought. Then I looked at the sfogliatella, the ribs of their crisp shell echoing the ridges of a brown and cream-colored cockle.

Sure, it wasn’t real shellfish. But didn’t it count if it looked like it anyway?

Laura M. Holson is an award-winning feature writer who worked for The New York Times for more than two decades and founded The Box Sessions, a creativity company. She has traveled extensively within Italy, including Sicily where she visited the villages where her grandparents were born.

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Root Vegetable and Apple Soup with Dungeness Crab and Brown Butter Courtesy Amalia Scatena, executive chef, Stationaery in Carmel

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edible edible MONTEREY MONTEREYBAY BAY WINTER WINTER2024 2024

Cook the vegetables in 4 ounces of butter for 10 minutes in a Dutch oven. Add the apples and thyme and cook for another 10 minutes.

Deglaze the vegetables with wine and reduce the liquid for 5 minutes. Add the vegetable stock, heavy cream, maple syrup and salt and simmer very low for 2 hours.

Blend the soup on high until completely smooth. Season with additional salt and pepper.

Brown 4 ounces of butter in a sauté pan until the liquid turns golden brown. Add the crab meat and lemon juice and cook on high for 2 minutes.

Pour the warm soup into a bowl and top with the brown butter crab. Garnish with chives and extra brown butter. Serves 6.

Photo: Josh Rose

1 small butternut squash, peeled and diced 2 carrots, peeled and diced 1 turnip, peeled and diced 1 rutabaga, peeled and diced 1 yellow onion, peeled and diced 10 cloves garlic, chopped 8 ounces unsalted butter, divided, plus more for garnish 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced 4 sprigs thyme 2 cups white wine 4 cups vegetable stock 1 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 tablespoon salt Salt and pepper to taste 1 bunch fresh chives, chopped, for garnish 2 steamed crabs or fresh Dungeness crab meat Juice of 1 Meyer lemon

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EDIBLE D.I.Y.

One Hot Marma

Photo: Alex Luhrman

A preserve for giving or serving at holiday parties

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Hot Orange Marmalade

Courtesy Tracy Smith Edible Monterey Bay graphic designer and production coordinator Tracy Smith lives in Corralitos, where she is lucky enough to have a prolific orange tree right outside her door. That’s what inspired this hot orange marmalade recipe, which she likes to make for holiday parties and to give to family and friends.

It’s hot, she says, because she likes all her food spicy and adds red pepper flakes to almost everything. This marmalade is a good balance of bitter, sweet and spicy. It tastes great slathered atop a round of goat cheese, and definitely deserves a place on your holiday cheese board.

5–6 oranges 4 cups sugar 1 cup loosely packed rind, cut into slivers 3 cups water, divided 1 cup cooking liquid from rind 1 tablespoon chopped jalapeño ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, plus 1/8 teaspoon for finishing ½ teaspoon lemon zest STEP 1- PREPARE THE RIND Peel outside rind from 3 oranges into wide ribbons. Use a wide and sharp vegetable peeler to remove only the brightly colored peel without picking up the white pith.

In 1½ cups water to cover, cook rind ribbons until soft, about 7–12 minutes.

Strain. Retain cooking water and set rind and cooking water in fridge to cool (overnight is best).

PRO TIP: The rind will be easier to cut into slivers when cold. Also put all peeled and unpeeled oranges in refrigerator to chill for 24 hours to help solidify the juice, which makes oranges easier to slice into sections later.

STEP 2 – MAKE THE MARMALADE Cut cooled rind into long thin slivers, then

coarsely chop to make a full cup.

Peel and remove pith from chilled oranges. Slice oranges in between membranes into segments or supremes.

Retain membrane dividers and place onto a square of cheesecloth to tie into a pectin bag.

Made from

Scratch

In a wide, heavy-bottomed saucepan combine sugar, 1½ cups water, 1 cup cooking liquid from rind prep, slivered orange rind, orange segments and juice, pectin bag, chopped jalapeño and ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes.

Bring mixture to a rolling boil and maintain boil until mixture reaches 220° F. Be patient, this could take 45 minutes.

Test mixture to make sure it is gelling, using cold plates from the freezer.

Organic and Local

When marmalade reaches desired consistency, turn off heat. Stir in 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes to taste and lemon zest.

Marmalade can be refrigerated up to 4 weeks or preserved using water bath canning process. Makes 5 ½-pint jars.

PRO TIP: The addition of red chili flakes at the end helps color the marmalade.

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Dine Local GUIDE

All of these restaurants emphasize local ingredients and they also advertise in Edible Monterey Bay! Please check hours online before you go and tell them we sent you.

APTOS Cavalletta 9067 Soquel Drive 831-661-5010 • cavallettarestaurant.com Chef-owners Shawn Ryberg and Nick Sherman (who also operate Trestles in Aptos) offer seasonal Italianinspired fare in a laid back environment that includes a leafy deck overlooking Aptos Creek. Pizzas, salads, pastas and entrées are all made in-house using locally sourced ingredients. Short rib rigatoni, seafood scampi, focaccia with burrata and lasagna, served Mondays only, are fan favorites. The partners spent nearly a year perfecting their pizza dough, which is light and tangy, and blisters to perfection in the wood-fired oven. Open Th–F, M 5–9pm. Sa–Su 4:30–9pm.

Mentone 174 Aptos Village Way 831.708.4040 • mentonerestaurant.com A fun twist on the cuisine of the Riviera, Mentone is a casual restaurant and cocktail bar from David Kinch— one of the country’s most acclaimed fine dining chefs.

Kinch loves the Mediterranean coast where France meets Italy, and Mentone brings some of those flavors to California with appetizers like duck rillettes and stracciatella with olive oil produced just down the road. There are house-made pastas and a handful of bistro-style entrées like pan-roasted black cod and steak frites, but the main draw is pizza—pulled bubbling hot from the Valoriani wood-fired oven and loaded with Italian toppings. Open W–Su 5–9pm. Lunch Sa–Su noon–2:30pm.

Persephone 7945 Soquel Drive 831.612.6511 • persephonerestaurant.com With a namesake like the mythic Persephone, this restaurant in Aptos proclaims its deep reverence for seasonal cooking. Themes central to harvest, winter and spring are core to Persephone’s story, and are reflected in the changing menu at this fine dining destination, where chef Cori Goudge-Ayer presents inventive, ingredient-driven creations. The restaurant is a family-run passion project, bringing together parents, siblings and

Good food and drink in Hollister includes these must-try businesses: Crave Wine Co., La Catrina, Mad Pursuit Brewing, Paine’s and Running Rooster. (Photo: Robert Eliason)

a long history of culinary arts in a beautifully redesigned space overlooking Aptos Creek. Open for dinner W–Sa 5–8:30pm. Fourth Sundays, Winemaker Dinner with five-course pairing menu.

New Leaf Community Markets 161 Aptos Village Way 831.685.8500 • newleaf.com The Aptos branch of the beloved local market group occupies the remodeled Hihn Apple Barn, built in 1891.

In addition to local groceries and organic produce, New Leaf Aptos has made-to-order sandwiches, pizza, freshly rolled sushi, soup and hand-prepped salads, as well as a coffee bar, juice and smoothie bar and organic Straus soft serve ice cream. Open daily 8am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 141 Aptos Village Way, Suite 2 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

Seascape Foods 16B Seascape Village • 831.685.3134 A charming family-owned market with an ample deli counter featuring daily chef specials, salads, breakfast items, freshly squeezed juices and sandwiches on housemade organic sourdough bread. The grocery section includes organic produce, artisanal products, local beer and wine, and gifts. Eat outside next to the fountain on the patio or take your goodies to the beach nearby. Open daily 8am–8pm.

BIG SUR Big Sur River Inn Restaurant & General Store 46800 Highway 1 831.667.2700 • bigsurriverinn.com The River Inn opened in 1934, selling homesteader apple pies to locals and travelers, and this year celebrates its 90th birthday. The small family business is known as “the place with the chairs in the river.” Food and drinks are all made from scratch. Enjoy your meal under the redwoods with a view of Big Sur River or with your ediblemontereybay.com

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feet in the water. Visit the Burrito Bar for tasty graband-go fare to fuel your Big Sur adventures. Open daily 8am–8pm.

CAPITOLA Capitola Wine Bar and Merchants 115 San Jose Avenue 831.476.2282 • capitolawinebar.com Where the wines meet the waves, Capitola Wine Bar can be found in the seaside village of Capitola and offers small batch wines hand selected by its team of certified sommeliers. Wines from all over the world are available, by the glass, bottle or flight, along with local beers and a great kitchen. The menu includes charcuterie plates, salads, flatbreads and desserts, as well as Doug’s “Cup of Mac.” Events are always happening like Live Music, Paint Nights, Trivia Nights, Wine Blending and more.

Don’t miss the dog-friendly patio and the $7 happy hour W–F 5–7pm. Open W–Su. For more information see website.

Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria 504 Bay Avenue 831.462.1200 • gaylesbakery.com A favorite with locals and a must-stop destination for visitors since 1978, Gayle’s Bakery offers freshly baked breads, pastries, cookies and cakes every day of the week.

The rosticceria is famous for its soups, salads, sandwiches and rotating Blue Plate Dinners, which are served hot and also available from the grab-and-go case to reheat at home. A dining patio with a fireplace and occasional live music make Gayle’s a community gathering place as well. Open daily 6:30am–7:30pm.

New Leaf Community Markets 1475 41st Avenue 831.479.7987 • newleaf.com Just opened in November, the new Capitola New Leaf Community Market occupies a larger footprint at 24,000 square feet, allowing expanded sections for organic produce, meat and seafood. The store also has increased its natural wellness section and its hot and cold food to go options. Enjoy California BBQ, fresh sushi and a self-serve poke bar. A coffee and juice bar offers locally roasted drip coffee and juices in reusable glass bottles. Open daily 7am–10pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 820 41st Avenue 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–10pm, F–Sa noon–11pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

Trestles 316 Capitola Avenue 831.854.2728 • trestlesrestaurant.com Just steps away from the iconic Capitola train trestle, chef-owner Nick Sherman’s passion for great food is evident in every dish at his popular neighborhood bistro.

Local seasonal ingredients star in appetizers like chicory salad, roasted fairytale pumpkin with goat cheese and mole negro, Brentwood street corn and crispy pork belly with watermelon radish. Entrées include smoked eggplant gnocchi, Niman Ranch pork chop and fresh fish— all served with local wines and craft beers on tap. Open W–F 5–9:30pm, Sa–Su 4:30–9:30pm.

CARMEL Covey Grill 8205 Valley Greens Drive 831.620.8860 • quaillodge.com/dining/coveygrill Covey Grill at Quail Lodge features USDA steaks and sustainably sourced seafood complimented by unique plant-based offerings in addition to seasonal American cuisine. Covey Grill offers casually elegant indoor and

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outdoor dining options against the stunning backdrop of Quail’s sparkling lake and lush garden landscapes. Open for full dinner service Mon–Sun 5–9pm, with bar opening at 4pm.

Earthbound Farm’s Farm Stand 7250 Carmel Valley Road 831.625.6219 • earthboundfarm.com Earthbound Farm’s 100% certified organic kitchen delights with specialty coffee and tea, soft serve ice cream and a made to order breakfast and lunch menu—including soups, sandwiches, salads, baked goods, fresh juices and smoothies. Food is available to be enjoyed on the beautiful grounds or for takeaway. In addition to certified organic produce, the Farm Stand offers a selection of natural, organic, local beer and wine, groceries, gifts and flowers. Stroll through the gardens and learn about Earthbound’s commitment to organic integrity. Open daily, but check hours online as they change seasonally.

Grasing’s 6th Avenue and Mission 831.624.6562 • grasings.com Chef-proprietor Kurt Grasing’s namesake restaurant has expanded since opening in 1998 to include two large dining rooms, multiple outdoor dining areas and the ever-popular bar/lounge. A Carmel classic located in the heart of the village, Grasing’s serves California cuisine, with an award-winning wine list and a vintage spirits program featuring classic cocktails made with rare Mad Men-era gins, whiskeys, Camparis and amaros. Open daily M–F 11am–9pm, Sa–Su 10:30am–9pm.

Sea Harvest Fish Market & Restaurant 100 Crossroads Boulevard, Suite A 831.626.3626 • seaharvestfishmarketandrestaurant.com The Deyerle family that owns this local gem has its own fishing boats for the freshest catch on the Monterey Peninsula. Sea Harvest doubles as a fish market and casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. The oysters and clam chowder are customer favorites, but don’t miss the fried combo platter, grilled fillets and fish tacos.

Open daily 8am–8pm.

Stationaery San Carlos Square, Between 5th and 6th avenues 831.250.7183 • thestationaery.com Stationæry is a neighborhood restaurant in Carmel operated by Anthony and Alissa Carnazzo. Offering brunch, dinner, specialty coffee, and natural wines, they celebrate comforting flavors with elegant presentation. Led by chef Amalia Scatena, Stationaery primarily sources from Monterey and Santa Cruz county farms and ranches, according to what is fresh and in season.

A take-away and bottle shop next door allows for to-go orders and a unique selection of Old World and domestic wines. Brunch daily 8am–3pm. Dinner Th–Sa 5:30–9pm.

CARMEL VALLEY Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market 2 Chambers Lane 831.659.2472 • jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com A chef-owned, friendly neighborhood market, Jerome’s offers local and organic produce, natural meats and seafood, and a great selection of domestic and imported wine, beer and microbrews. French-trained chef and owner Jerome Viel prepares delicious hot foods, sandwiches and salads for eating at outdoor seating or takeaway. The offerings start with breakfast burritos, croissants and other French pastries in the morning, followed by favorites such as coq au vin, spaghetti carbonara and chicken enchiladas for lunch and dinner. Open M–Sa 7am–7pm, Su 7am–6pm.

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A Perfect Place For FoOd, Wine, Friends!

Lucia Restaurant & Bar Bernardus Lodge & Spa • 415 West Carmel Valley Road 831.658.3400 • bernarduslodge.com Indulge in artisanal California country cuisine, awardwinning wines and an expansive heated outdoor terrace with the finest restaurant view in Carmel Valley. At this Forbes 4-Star charmer, named for the Santa Lucia mountain range and wine appellation that beckons to the south, executive chef Christian Ojeda offers both a signature tasting menu and dishes à la carte. Wine list is equally notable. A chef’s table and wine cellar are also available for private dining and special occasions. Open daily 7am–9pm. Saturday and Sunday brunch with live music 11am–2:30pm.

Marmee’s at Lady & Larder 9 Del Fino Place, Suite 101 831.689.9800 • ladyandlarder.com Named for the mother of owners and twin sisters Boo and Sarah Simms, Marmee is a weekend spa for the taste buds. Sit on the patio and sip natural wines by the glass, effervescent pet nats by the bottle, cold cans of Other Brother beer and Mommenpop vermouth spritzes. Snack on small plates of artisanal foods sourced from local purveyors, including Carmel Valley-grown produce and exquisite cheeses. Open Sa–Su noon–7pm.

Sunny Bakery Cafe 18 E. Carmel Valley Road 831.659.5052 • instagram.com/sunnybakerycafe Friendly local café offering homemade pastries, espresso drinks and light fare. Warm, welcoming service and a great array of treats made daily on site with wholesome ingredients that honor the seasons. Owner Analuisa Bejar heads the locally-minded kitchen with favorites like egg sandwiches, quiches, panini, frittatas, and irresistible BLTs. Buttery pastries, cookies, cinnamon rolls, muffins and cakes round out the list. Open W–M 7am–1pm.

DAVENPORT Davenport Roadhouse 1 Davenport Avenue 831.426.8801 • davenportroadhouse.com The iconic Highway 1 waystation cultivates a range of reasons to linger longer, starting with a wide menu starring rib-sticking plates like giddyup garlic bread, wings, fried pickles, salads and wraps, pizzas, burgers, steaks and a fisherman’s stew. Extensive dog-friendly outdoor patio seating (and doggie dishes); midweek specials like Taco Tuesday, Trivia Wednesday and Thursty Thursday with tons of $5 deals; and live music Friday through Sunday too. Open M 11am–4pm, Tu–Th 11am–8pm, F 11am–9pm, Sa–Su 9:30am–9pm.

FELTON Wild Roots Market 6240 Highway 9 • 831.335.7322 (Felton) 13159 Highway 9 • 831.338.7211 (Boulder Creek) wildrootsmarket.com Wild Roots’ 100% organic produce, natural groceries, organic meats and FishWise-certified seafood all go into the prepared foods offered by the store’s full-service deli, salad and soup bar and juice bar. Enjoy on the patio out in front or take home. Open daily 9am–9pm.

HOLLISTER La Catrina Mexican Grill 449 San Benito Street 831.313.0905 • catrinagrill.com Family owned and operated since 2014, La Catrina offers classic Mexican tacos and enchiladas along with specialties, including chiles rellenos, cochinita pibil and garlic shrimp. Drink specials are available nightly, and there’s outdoor patio seating. Don’t miss La Catrina’s weekend

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brunches with chilaquiles, omelets, pancakes and menudo. Open M–Th 11am–9pm, F 11am–10pm, Sa 9am– 9:30pm, Su 9am–8pm.

Paine’s 421 East Street 831.637.3882 • paineshollister.com Hollister’s favorite casual fine dining destination for nearly 100 years, Paine’s offers a wide selection of tasty pastas, fresh seafood, grilled steaks and chicken dishes. The peaceful atmosphere and white tablecloths make it a good place to slow down and relax with a glass of wine, or enjoy a beer while watching a game at the bar. Banquet facilities are also available for large groups and special events. Open M–F for lunch 11am–2:30pm and dinner 4:30–9pm, Sa for dinner only 4:30–9pm. Closed Su. Running Rooster 800 San Benito Street 831.634.0135 • runningrooster.com With a passion for providing high-quality, honest food and great service, Running Rooster is a lively place to stop in for lunch or dinner. Choose among eight varieties of burgers, tacos, meal-sized salads and wood-fired pizzas. Heartier fare in the evening also includes steak, oven roasted salmon, short ribs and rotisserie chicken. There’s brunch on weekends, and a full bar serves craft cocktails, local wines and 23 beers on tap. Open W 4–8pm, Th 11am–8pm, F 11am–9pm, Sa 10am–9pm, Su 10am– 8pm. Closed M–Tu.

MONTEREY Ad Astra Bread Co. 479 Alvarado Street adastrabread.com Come for the legendary all-organic sourdough—Seaside sourdough, olive sourdough or seeded sourdough— slow-fermented in a two-day process. (Or the focaccia, or French baguette.) Stay for the big-city coffee and creative sweet treats, while enjoying the spirited and youthful service and watching the Ad Astra elves through the tall glass wall separating the cafe and production area. Open M–Su 7am–5pm.

Alta Bakery + Cafe 502 Munras Avenue 831.920.1018 • altamonterey.com Now in its fifth year, Alta is a local favorite with outdoor seating in an early California setting at the historic Cooper Molera Adobe. Chef/owner Ben Spungin has worked up and down the coast in Big Sur, Monterey and Carmel Valley for more than two decades, and his cooking philosophy is based on locally grown, seasonal ingredients and bright flavors that balance savory and sweet. Prioritize Alta’s pastries, but keep some space available for the nine-grain pancake, smoked-salmon toast and Bloomsdale spinach sandwich with Baker’s Bacon and green goddess dressing. Kombucha, beer and wine on tap too.

Open daily 7am–4pm.

Coastal Kitchen 400 Cannery Row 831.645.4064 • coastalkitchenmonterey.com Executive chef Michael Rotondo’s tasting menu at Monterey Plaza Hotel’s flagship restaurant represents one of the most habit-forming in the region, but there’s a lot more to recommend this spot. From a refreshed dining room, sweeping views of the Pacific await from each seat.

Local delicacies receive elevated treatments: tempura artichoke with black button sage honey, wood- roasted black cod with shishito, squash blossom and charred coconut jus, and king salmon with raspberry, aromatic herbs and seasonal tomatoes—paired with hand-picked top-shelf wines. An indulgent new prix-fixe Sunday Brunch with endless Champagne is also well worth the splurge. Open Tu–Sa 5:30–8:30pm, Su 10am–2pm.

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Estéban Restaurant 700 Munras Avenue 831.375.0176 • estebanrestaurant.com At the heart of the downtown Monterey dining scene, Estéban Restaurant serves Spanish-inspired California cuisine made from local, seasonal ingredients, which can be enjoyed on the Mediterranean garden patio that now includes a classic pergola with toasty heaters. The menu features a selection of long-time Estéban favorites, as well as new dishes like Vieiras con Jamón (seared scallops, Baker's bacon, citrus oil, basil English pea purée, citrus supreme and asparagus ribbon) and grilled Secreto de Ibérico pork, with charred sweet peppers, ñora pepper paste, scarlet mustard frill and Picual olive oil. Open for dinner Su–Th 4:30–8:30pm, F–Sa 4:30–9pm. Brunch Sa–Su 9am–1:30pm. Grab & Go Breakfast M–F 7–10am. Tapas Happy Hour from 4:30–6pm daily.

Jacks Monterey 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.7830 • jacksatportola.com Jacks Monterey provides a refreshing culinary experience in downtown Monterey, inside the Portola Hotel & Spa. Emphasizing local ingredients, high-quality seafood, and an award-winning wine and cocktail program, Jacks philosophy derives from globally-inspired traditions of California Cultural Cuisine. The atmosphere at Jacks is sophisticated—never pretentious. Open daily for breakfast 6:30–10:30am, dinner 4–10pm, and bar only F-Sa 10–11pm.

Monterey Beach Hotel 2600 Sand Dunes Drive 831.394.3321 • marriott.com Freshly refurbished, Monterey Beach Hotel sits right on Del Monte Beach with some of the best views in town. It offers three dining and cocktail hour options, including: The Lantern Room on the 4th floor serving fresh seafood paired with produce from local farms and wines curated by local winemaker Ian Brand; Tidewater on the beach, which comes with fire pits, blankets, lounge seating and a selection of hot cocktails; and Lobby Bar with equally stunning seascapes from floor-to-ceiling windows and a more casual menu of oysters, fish tacos and grilled cheese. Open daily, check website for hours.

Peter B’s Brewpub 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.2699 • peterbsbrewpub.com Peter B’s Brewpub combines award-winning craft beer and sports on 18 high-definition televisions in a relaxed brewpub environment. Monterey’s original craft brewery is distinguished for its variety of beer on tap, innovative pub menu, happy hour, sports bar atmosphere, and outdoor dining on the pet-friendly heated patio with fire pits. Peter B’s is open Thursday-Monday with nightly happy hour from 4–6pm, as well as late night happy hour 9–10pm. Open Th-M 4–10pm. Sunday breakfast and football 9:30–11am from September to January.

Closed Tuesday and Wednesdays.

Schooners Monterey 400 Cannery Row 831.372.2628 • schoonersmonterey.com Residents regularly vote Schooners Best Drink With a View, and they’re not wrong. The eye candy rolls from the waves crashing on the tidal zone below to Seaside and Santa Cruz beyond, and the sippers are memorable.

But that’s only part of the program. The seafood-centric menu ups the atmospheric effect with contemporary takes on a Monterey cioppino pot, seared sea scallops, Dungeness crab dip and Thai-style steamed mussels.

Specialty cocktails, organic fresh-pressed juices and curated small batch beers and wine complete the affair.

Open 7am–9pm daily.

Sea Harvest Restaurant & Fish Market 598 Foam Street 831.626.0547 • seaharvestmonterey.com This fresh and casual seafood spot near Cannery Row is perfect after a day exploring the Monterey Bay Aquarium. There are grilled entrées and lots of fried options with chips, including calamari, clams, prawns, scallops and oysters. Try Sea Harvest’s popular clam chowder or a basket of crispy artichoke hearts. Open daily 9am–7pm.

Tidal Coffee 400 Cannery Row 831.645.4030 • tidalcoffeemonterey.com Thoughtful coffee blends with organic beans headline here, but picnic-lunch goodies and house-made sandwiches also come recommended. Monkey bread, maple scones and almond croissants feature in early, followed by soups, salads and panini like the roast beef with horseradish aioli, grilled onion, slices tomatoes, smoked mozzarella and pickled peppers. The coffee shop aesthetic is cute, but the adjacent decks overlooking Monterey Bay present a superior spot to spoon a fig-mascarpone or vegan chocolate-hazelnut gelato with a fresh cortado.

Open Tu–Th 6am–noon, F–M 6am–4pm.

The Wild Plum Café & Bakery 731 Munras Avenue 831.646.3109 • thewildplumcafe.com Located in Old Monterey in a vibrant and diverse neighborhood, Wild Plum draws people from all walks of life with sustainable bistro fare that uses organic, locally sourced produce, hormone-free Diestel turkeys roasted on site, grass-fed beef and house-baked bread and pastries. Breakfasts include scrambles, omelets, and breakfast tacos and burritos and for lunch, soups, salads, paninis and burgers. Wild Plum has a new graband-go location at Ryan Ranch, with breakfast, lunch, bakery items and espresso drinks. Open W–M 7:30am– 3:30pm. Closed Tu.

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MOSS LANDING Sea Harvest 2420 Highway 1 831.728.7081 • @seaharvestmosslanding Outdoor tables on a wooden deck overlooking Elkhorn Slough are the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood hauled in by a fisherman who is part of the Deyerle family that runs the restaurant. Choose from grilled catch of the day, shrimp Louie, fish and chips or some of the best Bajastyle battered fish tacos around. Open daily 11am–7pm.

Woodward Marine Market 10932 Clam Way 831.632.0857 • woodwardmarinemarket.com Moss Landing, population a few dozen, enjoys an outsized number of beaches, marine research institutes and, thankfully, eateries. Its newest ranks among the most inviting. WMM occupies a historic location at the Moss Landing Harbor fuel dock that delivers place-appropriate fuel for the eager eater. Clam chowder and Monterey Bay calamari lead the way on the appetizer front.

A pair of salads offers roughage with style. Plates and bowls round out the menu—think bouillabaisse, fish and chips, Woodward burger, artichoke-prosciutto sandwiches and seared fish tacos. Local wines and Prosecco available, as well as local craft beer, including Alvarado Street, Other Brother, Fruition and Corralitos brewing.

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PACIFIC GROVE The Grill at Point Pinos 79 Asilomar Avenue 831.375.1313 • grillatpointpinos.com Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch seven days a week, The Grill at Point Pinos is a beloved local’s secret located

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at the Pacific Grove Golf Links. In addition to views of the greens and the ocean beyond, owner Tamie Aceves makes sure the food and hospitality are way above par.

Award-winning huevos rancheros and chilaquiles top the breakfast menu, but there are also eggs Benedict and bloody Marys garnished with Baker’s Bacon. Ingredients are fresh and local, and the restaurant is green certified.

Open Su–M 8am–5pm, Tu–Sa 8am–7:30pm.

Julia’s Vegetarian 1180 Forest Avenue, Suite F 831.656.9533 • juliasveg.com Voted the best vegetarian/vegan restaurant on the Monterey Peninsula for more than 10 years running, Julia’s features inspired vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free food with a touch of class. Julia’s is well known for its fresh seasonal exotic mushrooms, elevated vegan desserts and house-brewed kombucha on tap. Julia's expanded breakfast menu is a great way to start your day, featuring breakfast hand pies, candy cap French toast and a cordyceps brunch bowl. Plus, everything can be made vegan!

Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

a Fundraiser for the Big Sur Health Center

events will be at various locations including Big Sur Lodge

Wild Foods Special Meals Foraging Hikes “Fungus Face-Off” Chef Competition and more...

Passionfish 701 Lighthouse Avenue 831.655.3311 • passionfish.net Specializing in sustainable seafood and locally grown produce, Passionfish is a perennial award winner and a James Beard Award finalist for its Outstanding Wine Program—with an extensive selection of local and European wines at close-to-retail prices. Mother-son owners Meral Alpay and Rasit Berk Guvenc continue the restaurant’s legacy with favorite dishes like Dungeness crab salad with avocado and spicy ginger vinaigrette, smoked trout ceviche tostaditas, albacore tuna with artichokebasil caponata and sea scallops with tomato-truff le butter, poached lettuce and savory rice custard. Open nightly 5–9pm.

January 24-26, 2025

Tickets available online www.bigsurforagersfestival.org SPOTTED DUCK

RESTAURANT

Spotted Duck 542 Lighthouse Avenue, Suite 5 831.920.2662 • spottedduckpg.com Spotted Duck brings a welcoming environment to downtown Pacific Grove. Chef/ owner Jerry Regester is hands on each night, preparing the menu with his creativity and capturing the essence of the changing seasons. A small restaurant with big flavor, a bistro-style menu and a French perspective, its motto is, “Duck is the new chicken!” Also offering great wines, local beer on tap and fun soju-based cocktails. Located in the historic Holman Building at the gateway to downtown Pacific Grove, Spotted Duck is considered one the best neighborhood restaurants by locals. Come eat, come experience the memorable food and hospitality that will have you coming back for more. Open Th–M 5–8pm.

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA

January 22-25, 2025 Asilomar State Beach & Conference Grounds Pacific Grove, California Featuring 60 skill-building workshops, keynotes, pre-conference events, farm tours, seed swaps, tastings, networking, Spanish programming, and the EcoFarm Expo!

LEARN MORE AT ECO-FARM.ORG

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Inaka Japanese Restaurant 313 Third Street 831.593.5100 • facebook.com Beloved by locals, Inaka has a vast menu of Japanese appetizers, soups, salads, tempura, teriyaki and noodle bowls, but most people come for the sushi. Try the San Juan roll with spicy tuna, cucumber and tempura crumbs topped with maguro, hamachi and avocado.

There is also a wide selection of vegetarian rolls and a dozen different sakes, some brewed locally in San Benito County. Open W–Su 4–8pm.

Lolla 201 Third Street 831.593.5064 • lollasjb.com Owner Sarah Griss has created a soup, salad and sandwich luncheonette in an adobe building right across the street from San Juan Bautista Historic Park. Lolla sources healthy food from local farms and food produc-

ers, giving customers a quick and convenient way to eat locally, seasonally and deliciously. Daily special soups are not to be missed. Open W–Su 11am–3pm.

Margot’s Ice Cream Parlor 211 Third Street 831.623.9262 • margotsicecreamparlor.com Bringing smiles to the people of San Juan Bautista for 25 years, Margot’s was originally opened as a retail outlet for wonderful handmade candies, including chocolatedipped apricots, almond butter crunch, marshmallows, oreos, grahams and pretzels, as well as 10 flavors of chocolate truffles. In addition, it offers 28 flavors of Lappert’s ice cream, espresso drinks and Dole pineapple whip.

Open M–Th 11am–7pm, F–Su 11am–8pm.

The Smoke Point 206 Fourth Street 831.593.5009 • thesmokepoint.com When Michelin-starred chef Jarad Gallagher wanted a project for his own community, he immediately thought of barbecue. San Juan Bautista holds a massive rib cookoff every spring and The Smoke Point is the restaurant he opened mid-pandemic for year-round BBQ. While most folks come for the brisket, ribs, tri-tip and pulled pork, don’t miss creative sides like Fuji apple and ginger coleslaw or crispy Brussels sprouts. There is local craft beer on tap and an imaginative weekend BBQ brunch.

Open W–Th noon–8pm. F noon–9pm. Sa 10am–9pm.

Su 10am–8pm.

Vertigo Coffee Roasters 81 Fourth Street 831.623.9533 • vertigocoffee.com Artisanal coffee roasted on site as well as fresh pastries baked in-house, brunch items, local craft beers and wines, plus wood-fired pizzas with naturally leavened, twice fermented sourdough crust have made Vertigo a locals’ favorite as well as a great find for visitors en route to the San Juan Mission, Pinnacles or other area attractions. Check website for current hours.

r Seabright, Housemade pasta fo . e world since 2006 Santa Cruz and th 538 Seabright Ave | 831-457-2782 lapostarestaurant.com Wednesday through Sunday, we open at 5pm.

105 Walnut Avenue • eathookandline.com 831.225.0434 • 4-9pm Thursday through Monday A modern California seafood eatery, now open in downtown Santa Cruz.

Windmill Market 301 The Alameda 831.623.2956 San Juan’s friendly neighborhood grocer has everything you need for a picnic or quick meal, with ample outdoor tables and booths around the windmill. A full-service deli counter and taquería offers made-to-order sandwiches and Mexican specialties like tortas, burritos, tamales and combo plates. There is also a salad bar, a hot bar and plenty of grab-and-go items. Open daily 6am–9pm.

SANTA CRUZ Avanti Restaurant 1917 Mission Street 831.427.0135 • avantisantacruz.com A local’s favorite since the 1980s, Avanti pioneered farm-to-table dining and the use of organic, local vegetables, pasture-raised meats and sustainable seafood.

Favorite dishes include calamari fritti, Brussels sprouts with roasted butternut squash and fresh pappardelle pasta with pork meatballs. On Sundays it offers Fogline Farm fried chicken dinners. Diners can choose the upscale contemporary dining room, a heated outdoor patio or the garden room. A full bar features seasonal cocktails, along with local wines and craft beer. Open W–Su 5–9pm.

Bookie’s Pizza 1315 Water Street bookiespizza.com Located inside the Santa Cruz outpost of Sante Adairius Rustic Ales, Bookie’s Pizza is owned by fine dining veteran chef Todd Parker and offers “inauthentic” Detroit-style square pies. Each pizza is made using the

Tune in Fridays around noon for Edible’s Mark C. Anderson and his Friday Found Treasures on 94.7 FM and streaming worldwide at KRML.com!

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best seasonal ingredients from local farms, fishermen and foragers. Dough is made with organic flour, naturally leavened for 48 hours, and each pizza comes with its own unique sauce. Open Su–Th noon–9pm. F–Sa noon–10pm.

Charlie Hong Kong 1141 Soquel Avenue 831.426.5664 • charliehongkong.com Charlie Hong Kong has been providing the Santa Cruz community with healthy, sustainable, affordable and high-quality food since 1998. The colorful, casual eatery’s delicious fusion of Southeast Asian influences and the Central Coast’s local organic produce have made it an inclusive, family-friendly, neighborhood favorite. Its slogan is “love your body, eat organic,” and its cuisine is proof that fast food can be good for you. All signature dishes are vegan with the option to add meat or fish.

Gluten-free options are available. Dog friendly. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Crow’s Nest 2218 E. Cliff Drive 831.476.4560 • crowsnest-santacruz.com A perfect spot to enjoy breakfast and lunch or catch a dinnertime sunset over the harbor, the nautical-themed Crow’s Nest is a Santa Cruz institution that never goes out of style. There’s always something happening, from live music to comedy nights and happy hours. Famous for its salads, house-smoked salmon and seafood entrées, the Crow’s Nest is a member of Seafood Watch and is a certified green business. Open M–F 9am–8:30pm, Sa– Su 8am–8:30pm.

Far West Fungi 224 Laurel Street, Suite A101 831.226.2626 • farwestfungi.com The air surrounding the cozy café in downtown Santa Cruz is always infused with the delightful scents of savory mushrooms and truffles. Each visit offers a fresh experience with the seasonal menu featuring a variety of cooked and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive selection of dried mushrooms, tinctures, books and cultivation supplies ensures your pantry stays stocked with rare foraged treasures. Indulge in must-try delights like candy cap mushroom cookies, hot mushroom empanadas and truffle grilled cheese, complemented by locally brewed kombucha on tap. Open daily 11am–5pm.

Gabriella Cafe 910 Cedar Street 831.457.1677 • gabriellacafe.com A charming dining spot inside a Spanish-style bungalow, Gabriella Cafe pioneered farm-to-table cuisine in Santa Cruz. Head chef Gema Cruz serves a seasonal California-Italian menu starring organic produce from local growers and the nearby farmers market, as well as humanely raised meat and sustainable seafood. There is a candlelit patio and a cozy dining room that showcases the work of local artists. Open for lunch Tu–F 11:30am– 2:30pm, dinner Tu–Sa 5–9pm, brunch Sa–Su 10am– 2:30pm.

The Grille at DeLaveaga 401 Upper Park Road 831.423.1600 • delaveagagolf.com/dining DeLaveaga earns obsessive attention for its trails, golf and disc golf, and it also enjoys a worthy epicurean program. The grill’s backdrop enhances the experience, with absorbing views, an outdoor patio and deck, welcoming fireplace and well-appointed bar. Food goes continentalCalifornian, local and organic, starring breakfast and lunch dishes like the croissant Benedict, the “Moss Landing-style” breakfast sandwich, the DeLa Black Angus burger and the “wedge shot” Louie salad with crab, bay shrimp or both. Open W–Su 8am–3pm.

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Hanloh Thai Food 1011 Cedar Street 831.854.7525 • hanloh.com This community favorite from chef-owner Lalita Kaewsawang offers standout “nostalgic cooking rooted in Thai tradition,” at a residency inside the stylish Bad Animal bookstore. Bright flavors begin with Hatsu oysters with nam jimm dipping sauce and pomelo-grilled shrimp salad tossed with chili jam dressing and Thai herbs. Entrées include lemongrass black cod, claypot pork belly confit and double fried chicken thighs with coriander. That all comes complemented by friendly hospitality and a wide selection of natural wines. Open W–Su 5–9pm.

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Hook & Line 105 Walnut Avenue 831.225.0434 • eathookandline.com Chef Santos Majano makes a welcome return to the Santa Cruz dining scene with his own seafood concept restaurant. Hook & Line taps local fishermen for the best fish and shellfish, then adapts the menu, whether it’s octopus, mussels, California halibut or just-caught Monterey Bay sardines. Oysters play a big role with a custom designed shucking station and several varieties on offer at all times. Happy hour all night Mondays and 4–5pm Th–Su features $2 oysters and special prices on wine and craft cocktails. Open Th–M 4–9pm.

Ivéta Downtown 545 Pacific Avenue 831.423.5149 • iveta.com This new restaurant at the lower end of Pacific Avenue near the beach provides a casual dinner experience and weekend brunch reminiscent of European seaside cafes. Don’t miss the seasonal salads, tasty appetizers, fresh pastas and the curated selection of fine wine and craft beer. Ivéta also operates cafés on the Westside of Santa Cruz and on the UCSC campus, in addition to manufacturing and distributing award-winning scone mixes throughout the USA. Pick up a package while you’re there and be sure to try the espresso drinks and house-made desserts. Open for dinner daily from 4:30– 9:30pm, and for brunch Sa-Su from 9:30am–2:30pm.

plumbedelegance.com • 1658 Soquel Drive Santa Cruz • (831) 476-4455 Proudly Selling Made in USA Products • Gracing Beautiful Homes Since 1987

Johnny’s Harborside 493 Lake Avenue 831.479.3430 • johnnysharborside.com With sweeping views of the Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor, Johnny’s location assures fresh off the boat seafood.

Steamed Dungeness crab with drawn butter is always a good choice in season, but don’t miss the clam chowder, fish and chips or Johnny’s authentic Italian-style cioppino. Crab-encrusted salmon, shrimp scampi and California halibut entrées are customer favorites, along with fish tacos, burgers and beer-steamed clams. Open T–Su noon–8:30pm. Closed M. Laílí 101B Cooper Street 831.423.4545 • lailirestaurant.com Exotic flavors of The Silk Road are served in a stylish dining room decorated in eggplant and pistachio colors and on a hidden candlelit patio. Locals rave about Laílí’s homemade naan served warm from the oven with a selection of Mediterranean dips. There is a wide variety of deliciously spiced vegetable dishes, and all meats are hormone free and free range. Open Tu–Sa 4–8pm.

La Posta 538 Seabright Avenue 831.457.2782 • lapostarestaurant.com A cozy neighborhood bistro not far from the Santa Cruz yacht harbor, La Posta chef Rodrigo Serna prepares traditional rustic Italian cuisine using local ingredients. The emphasis is on simple, seasonal selections, with the balance of the menu reflecting whatever produce is freshest right now. La Posta also offers a great selection of Italian ediblemontereybay.com ediblemontereybay.com

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wines and a heated outdoor patio. Open W–Th 5–8:30pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Su 5–8:30pm. Closed M–Tu. The Midway 1209 Soquel Avenue 831.427.7187 • themidwaysantacruz.com Acclaimed Santa Cruz chef Katherine Stern pivoted from running a popular farmers market stand during the pandemic to opening her own restaurant at the end of last year. The vibe is sleek and modern, and the food is sophisticated. Whether you try the lemon verbena pancakes, the chicken chile verde or one of the salads from the daytime menu, all dishes star seasonal produce and ingredients from Stern’s farmers market friends. Dinner options change frequently and always include a house-made pasta and a vegetarian entrée. Check website for the most updated menu. Carefully selected wines, beer and coffee roasted by Cafe Delmarette are available. Open Th–M 11am–2pm and 5–8:30pm, Sa–Su until 9pm.

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Carmel Rancho Shopping Center 26135 Carmel Rancho Blvd in Carmel-by-the-Sea (831)-625-1454 | 9 AM-7 PM weekdays | 10 AM - 6 PM weekends

In the wake of Hurricane Helene, many beloved Asheville area businesses have been deeply affected.

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Independent makers and local businesses are the heart of this creative Blue Ridge Mountain community, home to growers who are artists and artists whose work grows.

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New Leaf Community Markets 1101 Fair Avenue 831.426.1306 • newleaf.com The Westside New Leaf has a large deli counter and coffee bar, with a big selection of sandwiches, salads, bakery items, soups and other hot foods. You can eat at an instore counter or at tables outside. Open daily 7am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 913 Cedar Street 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Lines out the front door of its converted Spanish bungalow are evidence of Penny’s popularity. All ice cream, including bases, is made from scratch on the premises using local organic ingredients when possible. Dozens of exotic flavors rotate seasonally, but two favorites are chocolate caramel sea salt and strawberry pink peppercorn. Open daily noon–11pm.

The Picnic Basket 125 Beach Street 831.427.9946 • thepicnicbasketsc.com Across the street from the main beach, owners of The Penny Ice Creamery offer an alternative to boardwalk fast food. Sandwiches, organic salads, coffee and beer, all from local food artisans, and of course Penny’s popular ice cream, are all on offer to eat in or outside with your feet in the sand. A selection of grab-and-go foods, drinks and beach essentials are available in the newly expanded restaurant. Open daily 7am–4pm.

Pretty Good Advice 1319 Pacific Avenue prettygoodadvicesoquel.com Pretty Good Advice is the always vegetarian, and often vegan, place to go for a quick breakfast, lunch or dinner, as well as fruit-flavored seasonal lemonades and soft serves. Most PGA fruit, veggies, eggs and more are sourced from owner Matt McNamara’s farm in the Santa Cruz Mountains, lovingly nicknamed the Pretty Good Farm. Known for its mouthwatering hashbrown and egg sandwiches, unique seasonal salads and veggie burgers, Pretty Good Advice offers high-quality food at pretty good prices. PGA’s talented chefs took home 2nd place honors in the annual Beach Boardwalk Chili Cook-Off. Open daily in Santa Cruz and Soquel.

Staff of Life 1266 Soquel Avenue 831.423.8632 • staffoflifemarket.com A Santa Cruz landmark, Staff of Life started in 1969 as a small natural foods bakery and has grown over the years into a full service natural foods supermarket known for its local organic produce, seafood and natural meats as well as an extensive bulk department. Deli items and foods from the hot bar can be enjoyed at the Café del Sol. Open daily 8am–9pm.

Vim Dining & Desserts 2238 Mission Street 831.515.7033 • vimsantacruz.com Chef-owner Jesikah Stolaroff brings creativity and precision to her elegant New American cuisine, giving diners a clue to her background as a fine dining pastry chef. The seasonal menu might include appetizers like kimchi rice fritters, lamb meatballs or cherry burrata, with entrées such as pineapple trout, leek butter fettuccine or coriander crusted filet mignon—served in a tasteful dining room with a full bar or on the outdoor patio. Save room for unforgettable desserts and check website for occasional afternoon teas. Open W–Sa 5–8:30pm.

SCOTTS VALLEY The Penny Ice Creamery 262 Mount Hermon Road, Suite 104 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–9:30pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

SEASIDE Other Brother Beer Co. 877 Broadway Avenue 831.747.1106 • otherbrotherbeer.com The main attraction here is fresh, delicious beer. However, the brewery’s brand new kitchen inspires a visit on its own. Not coincidentally, dishes are designed to pair poetically with Other Brother’s house beers. The menu features goodies like its signature smashburger, fried chicken sandwich, mushroom melt, wings, fries, and creative and refreshing salads with occasional local food pop-ups. Check out the full menu on the website and visit the brewery taproom open M–Th 11:30am–9pm, F 11:30am–10pm, Sa 11:30am–10pm, Su 11:30am–8pm.

(831) 236-0483

Experience the beauty of custom garden design lesleygrainger1@gmail.com • lesleygraingerdesign.com

SOQUEL HOME 3101 N. Main Street 831.431.6131 • homesoquel.com Plenty of restaurants aspire to extend the type of hospitality you get at a best pal’s place. Here that happens in ways that honor the name. Dishes like abalone cassoulet, wild mushroom ricotta gnocchi and panzanella salads, curated local wines and, yes, a homespun setting—starring a huge vegetable garden in back—help chef Brad Briske and his snout-to-tail program shine. Speaking of meat, the beef tongue, steak tartare and bone marrow rank among the reasons to head HOME. Open W–Mon 5–9pm.

Pretty Good Advice 3070 Porter Street 831.226.2805 • prettygoodadvicesoquel.com Open daily 8am–5pm. See PGA description under Santa Cruz for more.

WATSONVILLE Staff of Life 906 E. Lake Avenue 831.726.0240 • staffoflifemarket.com Opened in 2021, Staff of Life’s second store in Watsonville is its first and only branch. The store is sustainable down to its bones and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and baked goods you would find at the Santa Cruz store, along with a juice and smoothie bar, freshly made sushi, a gelato bar, a full deli and a hot bar.

Open daily 8am–8pm.

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LAST CALL

OZEKI SAKE Hollister’s “local” brewer

STORY AND PHOTO BY MARK C. ANDERSON

O

n its official website, the city of Hollister highlights all sorts of things that make it a notable place.

The agriculture. The historic homes and churches. The wine country. The outdoor opportunities, including Pinnacles National Park just around the corner. It tells the backstory of its namesake Colonel William Welles Hollister, one of the first to drive a flock of sheep across the continent, to a place where livestock, sheep included, still outnumber humans.

But there is no mention that the city is the North American capital of sake, the first place Japanese sake was ever produced in the country, and—since 1979—the home of Ozeki Sake Inc. USA, which produces 500,000 12-packs of 750-milliliter bottles alone every given year.

That’s around 1.2 million gallons, enough to fill the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Deep Sea exhibit.

Ozeki President and Former Production Chief Yoji Ogawa isn’t too concerned about municipal recognition. He cares more about easy access to California rice grown in Sacramento and sake-friendly climate conditions (not too hot, cold or humid). And as far as his pioneering work in Hollister, one of the things he’s proudest of is Ozeki’s flavored sake, which represents a daring move for a company committed to recipes first crafted back in the 1700s.

“I was surprised, and I was excited to make a new product,” says Ogawa, who favors the yuzu expression over strawberry and pineapple, though all are tasty and well-balanced. “This is something we normally don’t do, and it is good for business.”

Ozeki’s Hollister headquarters and brewing facility represent a different sort of revelation. The place somehow wows with both scale and attention to detail.

When I stopped by, I walked past vats the size of space rockets with then-Ozeki Production Manager Kenta Horie, who described the forensic focus paid to de-moisturizing, polishing, washing, steaming, tumbling and tasting of the specific medium grain rice they 80

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source from farmers whose identity they keep guarded. When we paused at the massive conveyor belt where the kernels are steamed, Kenta grabbed a handful, started smooshing it between two palms, and studied it by touch.

“I make ‘mochi’ with it every day…” he said, “to make sure it is good.”

He added that the water here enjoys mellow minerals—not too many, but with all the desirables a brewing specialist like him seeks— in a way that mimics the waters of Nada-Gogō, the coastal home of the world’s oldest sake brewers, Ozeki included.

When Ozeki execs travel from the Nada-Gogō region to visit Hollister, some 5,459 miles away, the first place they eat out is Inaka Japanese Restaurant in San Juan Bautista.

This happens for several reasons.

One, they can speak Japanese with sushi maker Taeko Smith and chefs Janet and Yasuo “Chief” Sakaguchi—parents of co-owner Dave Io. Two, these chefs conjure recipes so old school—like nikujaga, a traditional potato-meat stew—the visitors emerge shocked that the dishes are on offer.

“Yoji told me, ‘I haven’t had this in 30 years!’” Io says. “And it tasted just like he remembered.”

Three, a core identity is shared beyond Japanese heritage: Both parties practice an epicurean craft with care and consistency, across generations. Inaka often has five family members working at once.

Four, the homespun and from-scratch food—tatsuta-age chicken, quail egg shooters, avocado tempura, San Benito special rolls, cauliflower katsu with garlic curry aioli—plays poetically with Ozeki’s cloudy nigori, One Cup and Junmai Daiginjo platinum sake.

Finally, there’s a bit of shared history between family-run brewery and family-run restaurant which have formed their own informal family: Inaka sold the world’s first bottles of Ozeki’s flavored nigori, which makes a far-flung planet feel more tightly woven.

Jerome’s

Market

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