Edible Monterey Bay - Fall 2024

edible MONTEREY BAY

Fall 2024 • Number 53

SEA URCHIN REVIVAL • HEALING SCENTS • FOR AGING • BIG SUR RIVER INN • CIDER • PINK CHAI • HERBAL ALCHEMY

Celebrating the Local Food and Drink of Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito Counties

FALL 2024 • NO 53

SEA URCHIN REVIVAL • HEALING SCENTS • FORAGING BIG SUR RIVER INN • CIDER • PINK CHAI • HERBAL ALCHEMY Member of Edible Communities

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edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

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Contents 4

GRIST FOR THE MILL

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

Healing Scent: Lavender Creek Co. finds a niche in wellness products; Steamer Lane Supply: Chef, farmer and former surfer Fran Grayson is totally shredding it; Forage. Gather. Feast: Author Maria Finn’s new cookbook aims to foster a deeper connection with the earth 21

WHAT’S IN SEASON

GOLDEN BERRIES

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BAKING WITH THE SEASONS

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ON THE BAY

SEA URCHIN R ANCHING

EDIBLE D.I.Y.

HERBAL ALCHEMY

Inspiring and unusual ways of cooking with herbs

LOCAL FOODS IN SEASON

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DINE LOCAL GUIDE

FOODSHED

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LAST CALL

FALL FARMERS MARKETS A complete guide for the Monterey Bay area

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ROMESCO AND MUHAMMAR A

Efforts to save the kelp forest with urchin harvesting prove appetizing

Local baker showcases sourdough and seasonal pastries 34

IN THE KITCHEN

Sauces simmered through the centuries

THE FALL TABLE

DANI O BAKESHOP

POURING HISTORY Pelayo Cider brings an ancient Asturian tradition to Hollister

A glitzy way to add a burst of flavor to meats and salads 26

BEHIND THE BOTTLE

BREAKING TR ADITION

Laili restaurant blends Afghan and Mediterranean flavors

EDIBLE NOSTALGIA

APPLE PIE ANYONE? Big Sur River Inn celebrates 90 years

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 19

Flaming Pine Needle Mussels

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Hearts of Palm Ceviche With Golden Berries

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Pear Upside Down Cake (Gluten Free)

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Homesteader Apple Pie

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Romesco Sauce

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Muhammara Sauce

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Basil Oil

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Fried Parsley

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Mint Vodka

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Rosemary Ashes

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Qay Maag Chai

COVER PHOTOGRAPH

Mark C. Anderson CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPH

Ivar Leidus

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ediblemontereybay.com

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GRIST FOR THE MILL Sometimes I feel like the conductor of a small orchestra.

It takes a community of very talented people to bring you each issue of Edible Monterey Bay magazine—writers, photographers, editors, graphic designers, printers and distribution drivers—everyone playing their part.

While I often express appreciation for the wonderful advertising partners who keep us afloat, I’m constantly in awe of the creative people who work on this publication.

Starting with contributing editor Mark C. Anderson, who is truly dedicated to the food and drink scene of the Monterey Bay and has two fascinating stories in this edition, reporting on a new book about foraging and on how to fatten up sea urchins so they’ll stop destroying the kelp beds in the bay.

He is joined on our newsletter team by wine expert Laura Ness, who not only can instantly identify flavors and aromas, but can spin out a story, too, in a seemingly effortless way.

In this Fall issue we also hear from Kathryn McKenzie, a longtime local journalist, author and one of the founding writers at Voices of Monterey Bay. We have stories from contributors Amber Turpin and Jamie Collins, who have been with us since EMB started publishing 13 years ago, and bring their insider’s perspective on local farming and farmers markets.

Rounding out this edition are newer-to-us writers Robert Eliason, Ashley Drew Owen and Laura Sutherland, along with chefs Analuisa Béjar and Martin Hoellrigl. Then there are the wonderful photographers who bring the stories to life with their vibrant images.

Dare I say DREAM TEAM? A huge thank you to everyone who contributes to Edible Monterey Bay in large or small ways.

On behalf of all of us, please enjoy the results of our collaboration and have a fantastic fall!

EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

Deborah Luhrman deborah@ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 FOUNDERS Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Mark C. Anderson COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning LAYOUT & DESIGN Matthew Freeman and

Tina Bossy-Freeman AD PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

Tracy Smith AD DESIGNERS Bigfish Smallpond Design Coline LeConte • tracysmithstudio • Zephyr Pfotenhauer CONTRIBUTORS

Marla Aufmuth • Analuisa Béjar • Jamie Collins Robert Eliason • Doriana Hammond • Martin Hoellrigl • Ivar Leidus • Alex Luhrman • Michelle Magdalena • Glen McDowell • Kathryn McKenzie • Ashley Drew Owen • Geneva Rico • Chris Schmauch • Laura Sutherland • Patrick Tregenza Michael Troutman • Amber Turpin ADVERTISING SALES

ads@ediblemontereybay.com • 831.600.8281 Shelby Lambert shelby@ediblemontereybay.com Kate Robbins kate@ediblemontereybay.com Aga Simpson aga@ediblemontereybay.com Fran Fitzharris fran@fitzharris.com DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Mick Freeman • 831.419.2975

Deborah Luhrman Publisher

CONTACT US:

Edible Monterey Bay P.O. Box 487 Santa Cruz, CA 95061 ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 info@ediblemontereybay.com Winner of five 2023 journalism awards

Our Mission

At Edible Monterey Bay, our mission is to celebrate the local food culture of Santa Cruz, San Benito and Monterey counties, season by season. We believe in sustainability, and we believe everyone has a right to healthful, clean and affordable food. We think knowing where our food comes from is powerful, and we hope our magazine, website and newsletters inspire readers to get to know and support our local growers, fishers, chefs, vintners and food artisans.

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Edible Monterey Bay is published quarterly. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Subscriptions are $28 per year at ediblemontereybay.com. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. We also welcome letters to the above address. Thank you.

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

HEALING SCENT Lavender Creek Co. finds a niche in wellness products

BY KATHRYN MCKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL TROUTMAN

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magine a potential plot for a Hallmark Channel movie: boy meets girl in the big city, marriage ensues and they accidentally discover a beautiful piece of property, envisioning a sweet life ahead…as organic lavender farmers.

It may sound like a dreamy romcom, but it really happened this way for Ryan and Myriah Hopkins, the proprietors of Lavender Creek Co. in Carmel Valley. Married in 2017 at Holman Ranch, it didn’t take long for them to spot their dream farm.

“Right after the wedding, we went for a long drive and saw the property for sale,” Ryan says. They printed out the listing and taped it to their bedroom door, and “that’s what planted the seed.”

It was no mere whim, since Myriah had long been intrigued by essential oils and their uses—in fact, the couple made lavender soaps together to give as wedding favors. Lavender is a classic scent that brings a sense of calm and peace, and as an essential oil, has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic qualities. According to information from the Cleveland Clinic, lavender oils have been shown in studies to aid sleep, reduce headache pain, soothe colicky babies and even speed up wound healing.

Lavender Creek, established in 2020, has been on a serendipitous path that has led to a national sales presence and fascinating new products that trade on the healing properties of lavender. The company was recently honored as 2024 Business of the Year by the Central Coast Small Business Development Center.

“We’ve been lucky—a lot of things clicked into place for us,” says Ryan, who was working in business-to-business sales in the Los Angeles area when he and Myriah met. He was no stranger to the Monterey Bay area, though, having lived here as a youth, attending Monterey schools and UC Santa Cruz. As the business has grown, so has the Hopkins family, with 4-year-old daughter Aulora and 2-year-old son William.

Although the couple had never grown anything commercially, they researched the requirements for lavender production and saw that the crop was a perfect fit for Carmel Valley, with its dry and sunny weather and This year’s lavender sandy soil. “Lavender is drought resisharvest took place in mid-June. Afterwards, tant and pest resistant, and it does well the fragrant sprigs were in Mediterranean climates,” Ryan says. crafted into body products, They planted nearly two acres of sachets and lavender English lavender on their Carmel Valley refreshment towels.

They researched the requirements for lavender production and saw that the crop was a perfect fit for Carmel Valley. acreage, installed a solar-powered well and got growing. The plants thrived, and a business was born. Their plan is to eventually add Spanish and French lavender, which have slightly different properties and bloom at different times than the English variety.

With Ryan’s sales smarts and Myriah’s experience in bookkeeping, accounting and finance, product ideas began flowing.

“It’s really exciting building a business together,” says Ryan. “We really like what we do, and we complement each other.”

The company offers products using its own homegrown lavender, including soaps, bubble bath and herbal balm, in addition to imported culinary lavender, which has made its way into creations at Monterey’s Revival Ice Cream and local restaurants.

But their most unique product is a lavender refreshment towel sold to hospitals and healthcare systems, both locally and elsewhere, as comfort care for not just patients, but also for staff as a way to lift spirits during tough times. The towels were developed after a customer ediblemontereybay.com

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The couple spotted the farm property for sale in upper Carmel Valley during their honeymoon.

asked for something calming and sweet-smelling to give her mother, who was in hospice care.

“We are now shipping nationwide to some of the country’s leading healthcare systems including Wellstar Health in Georgia, UCSD Health in San Diego and UMC Health in Lubbock, Texas,” says Ryan. Sometimes the towels are used for “Code Lavender” events in hospitals—an emergency designation called when staff need extra support to deal with emotionally difficult situations.

The all-cotton lavender-scented towels are also a hit with folks at nursing homes and assisted living facilities, as well as hotels, resorts and fitness centers.

Local healthcare systems using Lavender Creek products include Montage Health in Monterey, Central Coast VNA, Watsonville Community Hospital, Ivy Park at Monterey, and Sunshine Villa in Santa Cruz.

“We are incredibly grateful to our local partners as they are the early adopters of the towels,” says Ryan, who notes that some hospitals also carry Lavender Creek products in their gift shops.

The company is also supplying dried lavender for eye pillows made by the Monterey Peninsula Quilters Guild, whose members craft and donate to cancer patients undergoing treatment at Community Hospital of the Monterey Peninsula, Natividad Medical Center in Salinas and Salinas Valley Health.

It sounds like a lot, but for the Hopkins family, it’s just the beginning. Not only are more new products in the pipeline, but they have big plans for their farm as well. They’re hoping to eventually make it a 8

edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

destination so that visitors can see the fields of blooming lavender and inhale the heady scent. They’d also like to develop a venue there for weddings and other events.

Meanwhile, the couple is still sticking with the wellness products that are the heart of their enterprise. Being able to make people feel better during difficult times is what their brand is for, Hopkins says: “It’s all about making people more comfortable when they need it most.”

Lavender Creek Co. lavendercreekcompany.com Kathryn McKenzie, who grew up in Santa Cruz and now lives on a Christmas tree farm in north Monterey County, writes about the environment, sustainable living and health for numerous publications and websites. She is co-author of Humbled: How California’s Monterey Bay Escaped Industrial Ruin.

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

STEAMER LANE SUPPLY

Chef, farmer and former surfer Fran Grayson is totally shredding it

BY LAURA SUTHERLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY GENEVA RICO

Fran Grayson’s Steamer Lane Supply is a true Santa Cruz experience.

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ack in the day when Fran Grayson was a surfer, she and her pals liked to “double dip.” That’s surfer slang for surfing for a few hours, taking a break to refuel and jumping back in the water to catch some more waves.

She and the other surfers in the water or on the cliffs often talked about how they wished there was a place nearby to grab a bite rather than having to peel off their wetsuits and drive somewhere.

That idea lingered in her mind while she apprenticed and then taught at UCSC’s Center for Agroecology program, while she worked at Santa Cruz’s Ristorante Avanti, and while she worked her own small farm and successful “Truck Stop” food truck.

It was the thought of providing grab-and-go food near popular surf spots that led her to Lighthouse Field State Park and Beach in Santa Cruz, the northernmost point of the Monterey Bay and the location of a legendary surf spot called Steamer Lane. When she first contacted California State Parks about parking her food truck in the Lighthouse

Field parking lot across the street from the ocean, she noticed that a concrete block building housing the park’s restrooms had an unused storage room.

Three years later—after working with the state park staff on the details and transforming the storage space with a small kitchen, order counter and shop—she opened Steamer Lane Supply. The dining room was easy—it’s all open-air picnic tables in the park, some shaded

by Monterey cypress trees, some under the open sky and all with views of the ocean in the distance.

“Over that three-year period I had plenty of time to think about the menu and what I wanted to do,” says Grayson. “I wanted something craveable, healthy and delicious. I also wanted to create something informed by this space and the people here and what they’re doing. My version of a quesadilla reflects that concept. When you just get out of the water, you want something toasty, warm, easy to eat and easy to carry.” ediblemontereybay.com

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Located right across the street from Lighthouse Point, Steamer Lane Supply serves breakfast, lunch and snacks al fresco.

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Grayson’s version of a quesadilla starts with the tortilla and adds an origami twist: picture a flour tortilla folded around a filling into a flat and compact rectangular package. It’s then placed in a panini press until golden, crispy and warm, and tucked into a foil wrapper so you can walk around with it if you want. The ingredients meld (and melt if there’s cheese) together into a toasty, comforting package.

This creative twist on a quesadilla comes in many styles: The Break-a-dilla —scrambled eggs, hash browns, jack cheese, queso fresco, salsa verde and sour cream (adding bacon is a delicious option); the Kimchidilla; Tuna-melt-a-dilla; Pulled Pork ’dilla… you get the idea.

In addition to the popular ’dilla category, the menu falls into three other areas: sandwiches, such as the Classic Tuna, or Spicy Pork made with five-spice pork shoulder, house pickled vegetables, shredded cabbage, jalapeño, cilantro, mayo and hot chili; bowls, like the Tofu Bowl, or the Salmon Poke Bowl with brown rice, Napa cabbage, seaweed salad, avocado, house pickles, ginger mayo and sun sprouts; and the catch-all other category, that features items like breakfast sandwiches, tamales, smashburgers and kimchi hot dogs.

“The menu has gotten bigger and bigger as time has passed,” says Grayson. “I used to offer a special, like a chicken chipotle ’dilla or fish tacos and hamburgers just on weekends, but people wanted them all the time, so we’d add them to the menu.”

Breakfast is served all day, but no matter what time of day you eat there, you’ll see every generation, including the very youngest in strollers and the oldest in wheelchairs, enjoying the fresh air and food. The woodsy Lighthouse Field side of the park is accessible and has wide trails that meander through shady eucalyptus and Monterey cypress trees and open meadows. Walk across the street to get to the Steamer Lane surf spot, to the small Surfing Museum in the lighthouse that gives the park its name and to stairs that lead to Mitchell’s Cove Beach, where dogs are allowed.

“There really isn’t any other eating place that’s more kid friendly or dog friendly,” Grayson says. “Kids can run around and drop food on the ground—it doesn’t mat-

ter because the next guest at that table might have a dog who will tidy up. My dogs Nellie and Paloma ‘vacuum’ every morning when I come to work. We even have special dog treats—dog frittatas made with leftover salmon skin, eggs, cheese, rice and things like kale stems. We get lots of dog walkers, lots of families and lots of regulars.”

As soon as children have finished their kids ’dilla (just cheese), housemade berrypacked muffin, breakfast taco or Marianne’s ice cream sandwich, they quickly gravitate to one of the four downed Monterey cypress trees that bisect the 11 picnic tables. The logs are broad and easy to climb or tightrope walk atop for even the youngest child. Older kids can scale a root system or a small tree at the edges of the open-air dining area or set up a giant Jenga game with wooden blocks—it’s a one-of-a-kind natural playground.

Starting around November, flocks of monarch butterflies descend upon Lighthouse Field’s eucalyptus groves to overwinter. “I bring my camera when I come here in the winter, so I can take pictures of the butterflies,” says Chuck Moker, who couldn’t stop raving about his iced Turkish coffee.

“Within about 300 yards you can see huge clusters of butterflies, and then walk a few steps and look out at seals and surfers enjoying the ocean.”

Another repeat customer who comes with her husband and dog Leo, Christine Granados loves the quirky Santa Cruz vibe.

“It’s absolutely beachy” she says. “You look across the table and there’s the water—you smell the sea. Take three seconds and cross the street and you’re looking out at sailboats and seabirds. It may be super casual but the food is really interesting and delicious and fun—and it’s about as Santa Cruz as you can get…full of every kind of person. If you were going to do a postcard of a true California beach town restaurant, this is it.”

Steamer Lane Supply 698 W. Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz steamerlanesc.com Santa Cruz-based writer Laura Sutherland covers culinary, craft beer, wine and family travel for numerous publications and websites. More at laurasutherland.net. ediblemontereybay.com

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

Forage. Gather. Feast.

Author Maria Finn’s new cookbook aims to foster a deeper connection with the earth

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BY MARK C. ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARLA AUFMUTH

aria Finn’s adventures can seem outlandish.

Crewing an all-female salmon seiner in Alaska’s Lower Cook Inlet. Hunting truffles with Flora, her Italian Lagotto Romagnolo, in the Douglas firs of Humboldt County. Sharing a cup of tea, from the only cup in the cabin, with Yup’ik natives in the Yukon Delta.

Even “domestic” life on her houseboat—crafting fish-skin lamps, making wall-hanging mushroom beds, cultivating floating oyster gardens—feels wild.

But an interesting shift happens as the chef-author-advocate be-

hind new cookbook Forage. Gather. Feast: 100+ Recipes from West Coast Forests, Shores, & Urban Spaces keeps connecting experience to ecosystem. Her stories don’t sound so exotic as they demonstrate this logic: Life is tastiest when informed by what’s around us.

“Being outdoors is good for you in so many ways. It reduces stress, heart rate, and risks of diabetes or cardiovascular disease, and improves sleep,” she writes in the intro. “But there are the nonquantifiable reasons for heading into nature that are just as important. It’s fun and keeps us learning, curious, and engaged with our surrounding world. And it helps us tune in and connect to the ancient cycles of our planet.”

Finn used to work with Moss Landingbased Real Good Fish in marketing and member services, helping build the idea of a CSF (Community Supported Fishery).

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“Food is the lure, but the end goal is a realignment of human systems in sync with the pace and beauty of Mother Nature.”

That’s why the subtitle is accurate, but incomplete. Yes, there are 110 recipes for things like grilled uni, porcini butter, pickled fiddleheads, stinging nettle gnocchi, rose hip-apple jam, razor clam chowder, mushroom pâté with wine-soaked walnuts and “seduction-worthy” spot prawns with seaweed aioli. (Check out her recipe for flaming pine needle mussels, p. 19).

But there’s a lot more happening here.

This is also a field guide—note the coastal and forest gear lists, seaweed harvesting tips and how-tos for grazing boards made with ingredients foraged in different ecozones: forest, intertidal and urban desert.

Celebrated chef Becky Selengut, author of Good Fish and Shroom, flags that on Forage’s first page. “Finn draws you into a deeper connection to nature through its wonderful, wild foods,” she says. “Food is the lure, but the end goal is a realignment of human systems in sync with the pace and beauty of Mother Nature.”

So it’s also a reset manual, aided along 16

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with personal prose, on everything from edible flowers to kelp superhighways, befitting a naturalist’s eye and storyteller’s soul.

“Nature is persistent, even in urban spaces,” Finn writes in the chapter on urban foraging, “trees sprouting through cracked cement, mushrooms growing at their bases, and birds and bees pollinating all the fruits and flowers. But on a deeper level, nature is everywhere because it’s carried within us.”

Corey Ridings serves as fish conservation manager for the Ocean Conservancy and is on the Pacific Fishery Management Council, through which she met Finn, collaborating both on fishery policy and a FisherPoets performance in Astoria, Oregon.

“She shows how her foraging and cooking is not part of this absurd adventure that’s out of reach, but how it leads to better, tastier food that’s more nourishing,” says Ridings.

When first reached for this piece, Finn was prepping to leave Homer, Alaska, for

Finn, shown here foraging along the Sonoma County coast, is at home in almost any marine environment.

tiny Hesketh Island in Kachemak Bay. There she hosts a “wild food camp” as part of Flora & Fungi Adventures, which she launched amid COVID with Flora the dog, who also joins her for winery-affiliated events and pretty much everything else.

This camp began by using every speck of a sockeye salmon—brining eggs, smoking bellies and collars, turning heads and bones into broth, wrapping filets with sugar and salt for gravlax and freezing them for sashimi—before segueing into picking berries and plucking spruce, harvesting and shucking oysters, and kayaking while scooping out jellyfish and seaweed to cook together later.

“A common response is, ‘I didn’t know you could do that! I want to do this when I go back home,” says Finn, who considers her camps in-person versions of Forage. Gather. Feast. “There’s an excitement that’s fun and childlike.”

Homer, population 5,876, is where Finn journeyed at 22 to make money to fund travel and writing, because working at restaurants in her native Kansas City wasn’t getting it done. That’s also where she joined the all-women F/V Chirikof for three years and Pachamama adopted her indefinitely.

“I’d step out on the deck and suddenly see orcas eat a sea lion, with bald eagles filling the sky,” she says. “It was like being in a different time. It was hard, and at times frightening. It was also completely awe inspiring.”

She then spent six years working for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game along the Yukon Delta, living in a wall tent and tracking fish populations along the tundra, at times with a light attached to a car battery.

Much of her human interaction came with the indigenous Yup’ik women at their fish-drying camps. There they used parts of the salmon even Finn’s wild camp doesn’t—dipping milt popsicles in seal oil, for instance—and transforming skins into bags and lamp screens which inspire the lighting in Finn’s floating Sausalito home.

“They showed me their thing: They don’t waste anything, and it creates a kind of respect I wasn’t thinking about before then,” she says, that ethos re-emphasized by the exorbitant prices for the scant, shipped-in, half-rotten produce in the local grocery. “Wild food is about developing relationships with nature around you.”

That helps inspire the upcoming keynote she’ll give at Live Earth Farm as part of its annual Fall Feast in the Fields, which will riff on 1) transferring Mother Nature’s lessons to the farm through attention to things like soil health and water usage, and 2) justly distributed abundance.

“I feel very strongly that good food should be accessible to everyone,” she says.

“We need to think of healthy food as for everyone, and being healthy is really having a relationship with the earth.”

If you go Maria Finn speaks at Farm Discovery’s Fall Feast in the Fields Sept. 21 at Live Earth Farm, to support on-farm education and organic produce distribution to those who need it most; see farmdiscovery.org for details.

More about Flora & Fungi Adventures and Forage. Gather. Feast. at mariafinn.com.

Mark C. Anderson is a roving reporter, photographer and columnist.

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“This is my favorite way to prepare mussels,” says author Maria Finn.

“It’s dramatic and delicious and perfect over a fire at the beach.”

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Flaming Pine Needle Mussels

Courtesy Maria Finn, from her book Forage. Gather. Feast.

“This is my favorite way to prepare mussels,” says author Maria Finn. “It’s dramatic and delicious and perfect over a fire at the beach. The classic way in coastal France to prepare terrée de moules is to set the mussels in a circular mandala, standing upright, their opening facing upward, and covered with a pile of pine needles. Light the pine needles on fire, and as the needles flame and burn down to ash, they cook the mussels and flavor them with a smoky pine essence. I place them upright in a cast iron pan, add some butter and garlic and a splash of white wine, and then cook them over a smoldering fire, with the pine needles flaming on top of them. And along with the pine needles, you can add dried rosemary and fennel branches and let those aromatics flavor your mussels as well. It never fails to wow.”

5 pounds mussels, scrubbed clean ½ cup butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups white wine 1 large bag of very dry pine needles gathered somewhere dogs are unlikely to have peed (see note) 1 dried rosemary branch, fennel or other wild herbs (optional) 2 crusty baguettes, for serving Build a fire. If the fire pit has a grill, then the fire can still be flaming. (If not, let it burn down to glowing charcoals and put your pan directly on the fire.)

In a large cast-iron pan, line the mussels, lips up, in a circular pattern, and fill the pan with as many as possible so they stay upright.

Tuck the butter and garlic in around the mussels and pour in the white wine.

Cover with the pine needles and rosemary, if using. (Ashes of pine needles are part of the final flavor.)

Place the pan of mussels on the fire, and light the pine needles on fire. Watch it burn!

When the pine needles burn down to ashes, remove the pan from the fire.

Let people scoop mussels straight from the pan and sop up the juices with a chunk of bread torn off a baguette.

Serves 4.

Note: You can rinse pine needles and then lay them out to dry if you’re worried about cleanliness. Also DO NOT make this indoors. Make it at the beach, where it can’t catch anything else on fire. Have a bucket of sand and plenty of water nearby.

Reprinted with permission from Forage. Gather. Feast.: 100+ Recipes from West Coast Forests, Shores, and Urban Spaces

by Maria Finn. Photographs by Marla Aufmuth (April 9, 2024, Sasquatch Books)

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

Golden Berries A glitzy way to add a burst of flavor to meats and salads

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BY JAMIE COLLINS

didn’t really realize how much I liked golden berries until I had an abundance of them and a Sol Seeker Farm duck to cook for Thanksgiving. Inspired by their orange hue and pineapple-y mango flavor, I reduced them with a little brown sugar and hint of cardamom into a glaze for my duck. The beauti-

ful apricot color glistened on my roast duck while the sweet tart flavor and cardamom imparted exoticness beyond compare as it mingled with the parsnips in the Dutch oven.

Golden berries are actually fruits in the Solanaceae family and related to nightshades, like tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant and, you guessed it—tomatillos.

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Both tomatillos and golden berries grow similarly inside their calyx, a protective layer that encases the fruit. They are closely related and resemble smaller versions of tomatillos but with a tangy orange, sweet fruit and an essence of tomato within their papery husk.

Golden berries can be eaten fresh and are great on top of a salad, thrown into smoothies, added to overnight oats with vanilla protein powder, roasted and blended into a sweet salsa with pineapple which is perfect on fish or shrimp tacos, or slow cooked with a pork roast or poultry.

Dried golden berries have a nice zing similar to sour candy and can be added to homemade granola or yogurt, or used to make raw vegan treats by adding them to soaked cashews or almonds, some dates, turmeric powder and rolling them in shredded coconut or hemp seeds.

FRUIT OF MANY NAMES Native to Peru, golden berries are called Inca berries in their native land. They have been cultivated for hundreds of years in South America and originally were only grown for Inca royalty, partly because they were considered a potent super food. They have been grown in England since the 18th century and later in South Africa, where they are called cape gooseberries, after the Cape of Good Hope. It wasn’t until the 20th century that the fruit of many names was cultivated around the world in tropical and temperate zones.

While they are technically a fruit, they are not a true berry or a cherry! Farmers I know call them a variety of things including Peruvian ground cherries, husk cherries and gooseberries. In Hawaii they are called poha berry, and on fancy dessert menus you may see them called Physalis, its scientific name. My favorite name was given by the French—amour en cage or love in a cage—referring to their pretty calyx over what resembles a tomato, sometimes known as a love apple.

There are two types of golden berries, Physalis peruviana and Physalis pruinosa.

Once harvested, it might be hard to tell 22

edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

the difference, however they are different.

At Serendipity Farms, we grow the peruviana variety because I was gifted seeds from a farmer friend who brought them back from South America to share. I like this variety because it grows upright and you don’t have to pick the fruit off the ground like the pruinosa variety. The leaves are fuzzy in comparison and the fruit is larger. The drawback to this variety is that it takes much longer to ripen, but since we farm our row crops on the coast, it works well—we don’t receive frosts that would kill them and we can have some interesting fruit on our tables in winter when there isn’t much to offer. They can even be a perennial crop if grown in a hoop house or outdoors where winter temperatures stay above 45 degrees.

Spade & Plow Organics grows the heirloom cultivar goldie, which is a pruinosa variety. This variety is native to Northern Mexico. Farmer Sam Thorp learned about what he calls ground cherries when he was working at a culinary garden for a fine dining restaurant. He says people now know more about them and they are the “specialty of specialty crops.”

Sam, his dad and brother farm in Morgan Hill and Gilroy where it is warmer than on the coast and golden berries are quicker to harvest. Beginning in August, the fruit starts to fall on the ground.

Thorp appreciates how the fruit falls, indicating they are ready to be harvested, because that way they are sure the fruit is at its peak of flavor.

At Spade & Plow, only one long bed of golden berries is grown annually, which is plenty for their farmers markets and wholesale accounts because they are so prolific.

“I like to eat them fresh and keep it simple,” says Thorp. “I don’t like to alter the flavor too much. I sometimes cook them into a compote and add them to ice cream. When customers ask what husk cherries taste like, I tell them the flavor is like nothing else; they have a flavor all their own.”

IN THE GARDEN It is quite easy to grow these little vitamin C bombs. Many of my farmers market customers comment on how they grow as volunteers in their compost pile and have been re-growing year after year on their own without purposeful management. Just like a tomatillo, golden berry seeds are prolific if left to their own devices. In areas that receive no frost, you can even grow them as a perennial.

If you want to grow them, it is best to start them in seedling trays in a greenhouse or sunny window in the spring. Plant the seeds ¼-inch deep in organic seedling mix, keeping soil moist. When they have a few true leaves, harden them outside for at least a week in their seedling trays so they can acclimate to the outdoor environment. Golden berries take a while to grow big and strong enough to plant in the garden. At my farm, they are the last of the Solanaceae family ready to be planted in the ground. However, they are also the last to keep producing.

Be aware however that only the orange fruit is edible; do not eat unripe, green fruit. The outer husk and plant are toxic to humans and animals, so plant out of reach of pets and children that might eat them.

If you are growing the upright variety, it is easier to locate and harvest the fruit if you trellis golden berries using tomato cages or posts and twine. You can also let them go wild. Darryl Gunderson, a rare fruit grower and permaculture enthusiast in Santa Cruz, reports that he grows them in his permaculture food forest. He appreciates their ability to smother weeds and likes that they not only grow in full sun but also grow in shady areas of the garden, under a tree canopy. They make great snacks for foraging chickens, too.

HEALTH BENEFITS Loaded with antioxidants, golden berries contain over 70% of your daily vitamin A needs, and are high in vitamins B and C, with loads of fiber, potassium and magnesium. Especially good for vegans and vegetarians, this little superfood is high in iron, making it a wonderful snack eaten fresh or dried.

Pick up some golden berries at your local farmers market this summer and have fun incorporating them into your seasonal eating experience.

Kids love peeling off the husk to discover a bright orange fruit and they will enjoy helping to process them. Discovering new foods and preparing them with family and friends is what life is all about!

Jamie Collins is the owner of Serendipity Farms. She hosts U-Picks and a Friday Farm Stand at 26500 Val Verde Drive in Carmel, and attends farmers markets in Carmel and Santa Cruz, where you can find her fresh organic fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers. Find out what is being harvested @fabulous_serendipity_farm.

My favorite name was given by the French— amour en cage or love in a cage.

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edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

Hearts of Palm Ceviche With Golden Berries

Courtesy Martin Gunderson, general manager, Julia’s Vegetarian Restaurant in Pacific Grove In honor of the Peruvian origin of golden berries, Martin Gunderson created this vegetarian ceviche, which can be served with chips or flatbread and will be perfect for warm autumn days.

2 14-ounce cans whole hearts of palm, drained and sliced ½ cup golden berries, quartered 2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced ½ English cucumber, diced ½ small red onion, diced 1 avocado, diced 1 fresh pasilla pepper, seeds and ribs removed and diced ¼ cup cilantro, chopped, plus extra for garnish 2 cloves garlic, grated 1/3 cup fresh lime juice

¼ cup fresh lemon juice Sea salt and ground black pepper to taste Combine hearts of palm, golden berries, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, avocado, pasilla pepper, cilantro, garlic, lime juice, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a bowl.

Cover and refrigerate until chilled, 2 hours.

Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve with chips or flatbread, and hot sauce that you love. Serves 4-6.

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The Fall Table A gathering of goods made in the Monterey Bay area

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HOSTED BY MCINTYRE VINEYARDS Originally planted in 1973, the McIntyre Estate Vineyard lies in the “sweet spot” of the Santa Lucia Highlands. The 80-acre site— which includes 60 acres of vineyards—was among the first to be SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified and contains some of the oldest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in the SLH appellation.

McIntyre Family Wines has a new tasting room in Carmel Valley Village and an event center at the vineyard, which can be rented for special occasions.

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Gourmet Dog Treats Carmel Dog Shop | Lincoln & 7th, Carmel @carmeldogshop | carmeldogshop.com

2

Blue Cornbread Mix Fireline Farm | Salinas @fireline_farm | firelinefarm.com

3

Cured Meats, Smoked Salmon and Sausages Corralitos Market & Sausage Co. | 596 Corralitos Rd. Watsonville corralitosmarketsausagecompany.com

4

Olallieberry Pie and Apple Pie Sweet Elena’s Bakery | 465-D Olympia Ave. Sand City Also available at farmers markets @sweetelenasbakery | sweetelenas.com

5

Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Balsamic and Castelvetrano Olives Monterey’s Tasty Olive Bar | 751 Cannery Row, Monterey @montereysolivebar | montereystastyolivebar.com

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Seasonal Produce Box with Peppers, Romano Beans and Figs Borba Family Farms | Aromas @borbafamilyfarms | borbafamilyfarms.com

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Autumn Floral Arrangement Unskripted Design | Monterey Peninsula @unskripted_design | unskripteddesign.com

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2018 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir and 2016 Per Ardua Red Blend McIntyre Family Wines | 24 W. Carmel Valley Rd. Carmel Valley @tastemcintyre | mcintyrevineyards.com

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Handblown Glass Pumpkins Leonoff Art Glass | 13766 Center St. Suite G3, Carmel Valley @leonoffartglass | leonoffartglass.com

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10 Market Basket, Print Throw, Linen Napkins, Rectangular Wicker Tray, Iron Candle Holders and Tapers The Hearth Shop & Home Alchemy | 109 and 120 Crossroads Blvd. Carmel @thehearthshop | thehearthshop.com @home.alchemy.carmel | homealchemy.com Curated by Aga Simpson | Photo by Glen McDowell sponsored content ediblemontereybay.com

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BAKING WITH THE SEASONS

DANI O BAKESHOP Local baker showcases sourdough and seasonal pastries

BY AMBER TURPIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY DORIANA HAMMOND

D

anielle Orlando is the kind of baker who loves to make elaborate desserts. She is at ease plating those beautiful creations you can only get on tasting menus at the finest restaurants, the kind you can’t even fathom making in your home kitchen. The Culinary Institute of Americatrained pastry chef worked in restaurant kitchens for the past 15 years, with stints in some of the top San Francisco spots and as head of pastry at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay. But despite loving her job and what she was crafting, there was something missing for her in that work. “I was at the top of the ladder, but ultimately I chose to do something more collaborative,” she explains about when she decided to branch out and

create her own baking business. “I was interested in bringing in the community. I had been working the back of house for so long, never seeing the smiles on customers’ faces when they were eating my food, so that was the missing piece for me. Food is so soulful, and I wanted to share that.”

So she quit and launched a wildly popular sourdough brioche donut business prepandemic at farmers markets in and around Half Moon Bay. The donut endeavor segued into what some of you may recognize as Dani O & Co.—a Soquel-based online bakery that offers sourdough bread, English muffins and cookies, with some special treats available from time to time. In the beginning, the business was her chance to showcase her burgeoning sourdough skills, more than just the donuts (everyone always wanted those no matter what).

Baker Danielle Orlando is opening her own brick-and-mortar location inside the Capitola Mall.

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“I had been working the back of house for so long, never seeing the smiles on customers’ faces when they were eating my food, so that was the missing piece for me.”

When COVID hit, Orlando took a break from baking. She pivoted, got a real estate license, had a baby, went through a divorce…all the major life events that still happened amidst a major pandemic. But she couldn’t stop thinking about Dani O & Co. “I can’t shake the baker and I don’t want to!” she realized. As she got back into the routine of baking for weekly pickups, special orders and pop-ups almost every weekend, she realized that something else had shifted for her, which connected back to her initial decision to leave the restaurant world in search of more connection and community.

Now Orlando has created Dani O Bakeshop, a health-forward bakery expected to open in August in a 690-square-foot space inside the food court at the Capitola Mall. She has designed a fun vintage vibe for the bakery, located near all the other mom and pop vendors in the food court, somewhat unique for a mall. That collaborative, community minded feeling is back for Orlando at the bakery, where she has created a menu of items using no refined sugars, no seed oils, all non-GMO ingredients and organic, seasonal produce as much as possible.

“I really wanted to call out that we aren’t using refined sugars, we are using stoneground, organic flour and salt that is actually

pink. Coconut sugar is the base of our recipes and it has half the glycemic index. I see that difference when I give it to my 4 year old,” Orlando says.

It is a full circle moment for her, an opportunity to showcase her past experience paired with some of the lessons that came along with the ride of the last few years. The online bakery still exists for weekly pickup, and she has branched out to offer wholesale goods to restaurants as well as pastry chef consulting services, developing recipes with ingredients in set containers and training cooks on the line to bake the products for their menus.

The brick-and-mortar will not only offer all of Orlando’s tempting baked goods, but also items like egg in a hole toasts and French toast with maple sugar. Over the span of her career, she has developed several base recipes that can change with the season, such as the gluten-free upside down cake recipe she shares with us below.

“It is all about whatever I find that inspires me,” she says. “We have the best agriculture here and I want to use it.”

Amber Turpin is a freelance food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

Enjoy the made-from-scratch option at your next event!

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tender.

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edible edible MONTEREY MONTEREYBAY BAY FALL FALL2024 2024

Pear Upside Down Cake (Gluten Free)

Courtesy Danielle Orlando, chef-owner Dani O Bakeshop in Capitola Orlando used Bosc and red Anjou pears in this corn cake, but says it is so versatile you can use any seasonal fruit. It is also wonderful with sliced apples or with citrus segments in the winter.

1½ sticks butter (6 ounces), at room temperature 1 cup coconut sugar 1 cup almond flour ¾ cup fine cornmeal ¾ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 2 eggs Zest of 1 lemon ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup fruit, sliced Preheat oven to 350º F. In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar until just combined. In a separate bowl, combine all the dry ingredients (almond flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt).

Add the eggs to butter and sugar mixture one at a time, alternating with the flour mixture, mixing briefly after each addition to incorporate. Add the vanilla and lemon zest and stir to combine.

Prepare an 8- or 9-inch round cake pan with cooking spray and a piece of parchment paper cut to size.

Line the bottom of the pan with the fruit in an even layer. Top with batter, filling about ¾ of the way to the top of the pan.

Bake for 40-50 minutes or until firm in center and golden in color. Remove from the oven and let the cake rest for 5-10 minutes

before inverting onto a plate. Do this by placing a plate larger than the baking pan on top of the cake pan and then flipping to invert.

Once inverted, take the parchment off and reveal a beautiful layer of fruit. Serve warm with ice cream or whipped cream. It is also great for breakfast at room temperature the next day. Serves 8-10.

Tips & Tricks • Only mix the sugar with butter until incorporated and just combined. It doesn’t need to be fluffy like some cake recipes call for.

• Alternating the eggs with dry mixture avoids the batter breaking.

• Letting the cake sit in the pan 5-10 minutes before inverting gives the fruit time to congeal to the cooling, cooked batter.

• If not using cooking spray, you can grease the pan with butter.

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• Use parchment paper. It is the best way to avoid sticking.

• This recipe also works great in cupcake form, making individual, pretty little upside down cakes.

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Where Wellness Meets Wisdom Topical pain management and more Hand-Made Ethical Sourcing Holistic Wellness Community Focused

LOCAL FOODS

in Season

SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, NOVEMBER FRUITS Apples • Asian Pears • Avocados • Blackberries** • Cactus Pears • Dates Feijoas**** • Figs • Guavas****• Kiwis • Kumquats • Lemons • Limes*** Mandarins**** • Melons • Nectarines** • Oranges • Peaches* • Pears Persimmons • Plums • Pluots • Pomegranates • Pomelos**** • Quince Raspberries • Strawberries

VEGETABLES Beans • Beets • Bok Choy* • Broccoli • Brussels Sprouts* • Burdock Cabbages • Carrots • Cauliflowers* • Celeriac • Celery • Chard • Collards • Corn Cress • Cucumbers • Dandelions • Eggplants • Endive • Fennel • Garlic • Herbs Horseradish • Kale • Leeks • Lettuces • Mustard Greens • Okra • Olives • Onions Orach • Parsnips • Peas • Pea Shoots • Peppers • Potatoes • Radishes • Rhubarb Rutabagas*** • Salsify • Scallions • Shallots • Spinach • Sprouts • Squash, Summer and Winter • Sunchokes • Sweet Potatoes • Tomatillos • Tomatoes • Turnips

SEAFOOD Abalone • Halibut, Calif. • Lingcod • Rock Cod/Rockfish • Sablefish, aka Black Cod • Sanddabs • Sea Bass, White • Sole • Spot Prawns • Squid, Market Tuna, Albacore

NUTS Almonds • Hazelnuts • Pecans • Pistachios • Walnuts * September only ** Only through October ***October and beyond

humanminded.co hmnminded Human Minded 34

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All fish listed are rated “Best Choice” or “Good Alternative” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program and are found in abundance in local waters.

See seafoodwatch.org for more information.

Jerome’s

Market

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Fall has it all 10% of profits go back to the community

The best of fall is arriving daily at New Leaf, like organic dry farmed tomatoes packed with flavor, locally harvested organic squash and pumpkins and crispy, California grown grapes.

Half Moon Bay • Downtown Santa Cruz Westside Santa Cruz • Capitola • Aptos 36

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Felton

Los Gatos

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Farmers Market Markets

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Scotts Valley

S A N TA C R U Z C O U N T Y | FA L L 2 0 2 4

Capitola

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Where did summer go? It feels shorter and shorter every year, taking with it those fleeting flavors of the season’s bounty. But we are lucky here in the Monterey Bay area, where we can practically serve Caprese salad on our holiday tables. Who knows what the weather will bring this year? By the time you are reading this, perhaps there’s

2–6pm • April through October Ramsey Park, Watsonville 831.726.4257 • pvhealthtrust.org

Wednesday 3 Downtown Santa Cruz Farmers Market

Friday 4 Watsonville Certified Farmers Market

2–7pm • Year-round Watsonville City Plaza, Peck & Main Streets 831.588.7366 facebook.com/watsonvillefarmersmarket

Saturday 6

10 Capitola Certified Farmers Market

Aptos Certified Farmers Market

Scotts Valley Farmers Market

11am–3pm • Year-round 127 Hames Road • 831.724.1332 wayne@catalyst2001.com

9am−1pm • May through November 5060 Scotts Valley Drive, Boys & Girls Club Parking Lot 831.454.0566 • santacruzfarmersmarket.org 8

Live Oak Farmers Market

11am–4pm • Year-round 1855 41st Avenue • 650.290.3549 wcfma.org

8am–Noon • Year-round 6500 Soquel Drive • 831.728.5060 montereybayfarmers.org 7

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Westside Santa Cruz Market

9am–1pm • Year-round 2801 Mission Street • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

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Corralitos Farm & Garden Market

2

Corralitos

11

Watsonville

4

See opposite side for

Monterey & San Benito Counties

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tear out and keep 

1pm-5pm • Year-round Lincoln and Cedar Streets • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

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9am–1pm • Year-round 15th and East Cliff Drive • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

El Mercado

Mountain Farmers Market

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2pm-6pm • May 3 to October 25 23845 Summit Road, Los Gatos 831.588.7366 instagram.com/mountain_market_

Felton Farmers Market

u r Sp o ns

Sunday

➱

1

ank You

been an early grape harvest or maybe it won’t be until late October. But the whims of our climate and calendar keep things interesting. So savor the change, revel in each appearance of a newly picked piece of seasonal produce at the market and don’t worry too much about saying goodbye to summer…she will return before we know it.

Tuesday 1:30pm-5:30pm • food trucks open until 6pm May through October 120 Russell Avenue • 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

Aptos

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Saturday

Pacific Grove Certified Farmers Market

11 Old Town Salinas

Tuesday 2 Old Monterey Marketplace & Farmers Market

4–7pm • Year-round Alvarado Street • 831.655.2607 oldmonterey.org

Wednesday 3

Natividad Certified Farmers Market

11am−3:30pm • May to October 1441 Constitution Blvd., Salinas 831.384.6961 • everyonesharvest.org 4

Hollister Certified Farmers Market

3−7pm • April 17 to October 16 San Benito Street between 5th and 7th 831.636.8406 downtownhollister.org/farmers-market

Santa Cruz

Farmers Market

9am–2pm • Year-round 300 block Main Street 650.815.8760 wcfma.org/salinas 12 The Power Plant Certified Farmers Market

9am–2pm • Year-round 7990 Highway 1, Moss Landing 831.453.0022 thepowerplant.store/farmers-market

Moss Landing

Sunday

➱

3–6pm • Year-round Central and Grand Avenues 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

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13 Carmel Valley Certified

Farmers Market

10am–2pm • Year-round Mid-Valley Shopping Center 550 Carmel Valley Road 650.290.3549 • wcfma.org

6

Hollister

4

Castroville

14 Marina Certified

Farmers Market

10am–2pm • Year-round 215 Reservation Road • 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

3

Thursday

Salinas

Carmel–by-the-Sea Farmers Market

Marina

10am–2pm • Year-round 6th and Mission Streets 831.402.3870 • goodrootsevents.com

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Seaside Certified Farmers Market

Soledad Certified Farmers Market

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Carmel Valley 13

10 Salinas Valley Health Certified Farmers Market

Monterey Certified Farmers Market

Carmel

8am–noon • Year-round 1410 Del Monte Center 831.728.5060 • montereybayfarmers.org

M O N T E R E Y BAY

Farmers Market Markets M O N T E R E Y C O U N T Y | FA L L 2 0 2 4

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Soledad

5

Friday

12:30−5:30pm • May to November 450 East Romie Lane 831.384.6961 • everyonesharvest.org

Seaside

Monterey

4−8pm • April to October 137 Soledad Street • 831.678.3504

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3–7pm • Year-round Laguna Grande Regional Park 1259 Canyon del Rey Blvd.

831.384.6961 • everyonesharvest.org 8

Pacific Grove

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Castroville Farmers Market

3−7:30PM • Year-round Castroville Recreation Center 11261 Crane Street ncrpd.org

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tear out and keep  Watercolor Map : Katie Doka Illustration

1

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Monday

eat • drink • stay

lift your spirit

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No. 80 / SPRING 2024

Issue No. 10 • Fall 2021

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Grape Debate • CSAs • Restaurant Guide Spring Destinations

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Meet the New Executive Chef at the Inn at Newport Ranch Rex Pickett, Author of Sideways, Returns to the Anderson Valley

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ISSUE 23 • SEP/OC T 2023

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VANCOUVER & WINE COUNTRY

W H I S K Y • OY S T E R T O U R • P U M P K I N PA I N T I N G

ISSUE 23 • SEP/OC T 2023

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Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

FROZEN BERRIES . BETTER BUTTER . VEGAN BREAD Member of Edible Communities

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NO.12 | SUMMER 2023 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

SPRING 2024 NO. 70

PHOENIX

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EDIBLE NOSTALGIA

Apple Pie ANYONE?

Big Sur River Inn celebrates 90 years

BY KATHRYN MCKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHELLE MAGDALENA

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lthough so much in Big Sur has changed in recent decades, there has been one constant for the past 90 years—a beloved apple pie served up at a historic motor lodge.

The Big Sur River Inn began its life in 1934 as the Apple Pie Inn, and has persisted despite ownership, management and name changes. It lays claim to being the oldest resort on the South Coast, and over the decades has been the scene of weddings, family reunions, parties and many, many vacations.

Its longevity is certainly due in part to the homemade pie, but also to the ongoing hospitality and generosity of a succession of owners, and a willingness to embrace new ideas and amenities to change with the times. The restaurant and inn have become a center of the ever-resilient Big Sur community, which endures fires, floods and highway closures on a regular basis due to the South Coast’s challenging landscape on the edge of the continent.

Recently, the torch was passed to a new generation, with owners Alan Perlmutter and wife Nancy Sanders turning the business over to their son Ben Perlmutter and Ben’s wife Laurel Flagg, who both draw on hospitality backgrounds. Joining them is childhood friend Colin Twohig, a six-year employee of the inn who has been promoted to general manager.

Big Sur River Inn is known far and wide as the place with the chairs in the river.

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“It is with great joy that our youngest son Ben is taking over as managing partner to continue the family-friendly, communityconscious efforts started by the pioneer Pfeiffer family 90 years ago,” says Alan Perlmutter, 91.

The new managing partners have already had their share of challenges, coping with dual highway closures—one to the south that’s been there for more than a year, and one this past spring to the north—which cut off Big Sur entirely for a while and interrupted visitor traffic for nearly two months.

During the closure last spring, the River Inn became a central location where residents could get together and support each other during a trying time.

“The restaurant remained open for the community” during the Rocky Point slide, says Lacey Mazurek, a longtime Big Sur resident and the inn’s social media/marketing

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maven. The inn also hosted movie nights and live music to bolster spirits of locals who were trapped on “the island” during that time. It’s a welcoming attitude that the Perlmutters have nurtured and that Ben and Laurel intend to continue.

The inn’s recipe for hospitality is baked into its history. It all began when Big Sur homesteaders Barbara and Michael Pfeiffer purchased the 160-acre Pheneger property around the turn of the last century. Their granddaughter Ellen Pfeiffer Brown had an idea that a newfangled thing called a “motel” would draw visitors to the remote area. With more Americans owning automobiles than ever before, car vacations were becoming popBig Sur River Inn opened just before the Highway 1 paving project was completed and often had the river running through the dining room.

ular throughout the U.S. Not only that, the creation of Highway 1 had been underway for more than a decade, and a better road would bring tourists to Big Sur. Brown had guest lodgings built, converted her dining room and kitchen into a restaurant on the east side of the coast road and opened for business in 1934.

Brown left Big Sur three years later and her mother, Florence, took over the inn. It was good timing, because the paved highway between Carmel and Hearst Castle was finally completed. The restaurant moved to the west side of the highway, a gas station was added and the establishment was renamed Rogers Redwood Camp.

In 1943, another Pfeiffer daughter, Esther Pfeiffer Ewoldsen, and husband Hans took the helm, and the establishment was renamed yet again, becoming the River Inn. As the story goes, Esther hoped the name change would keep the river out—because during storms, the Big Sur River would invade and flow through the middle of the dining room.

(A crack in the dining room floor is the only

remnant left of this, Mazurek says.)

The Ewoldsens remodeled the buildings and improved the dining room. Because the two were avid botanists and outdoor enthusiasts, Hans was inspired to build nearby hiking trails that are still in use today.

The property changed hands a few times over the next several decades until Alan Perlmutter and his family purchased the inn in 1988. Mazurek herself has been part of the inn family since she was an elementary school student, serving at a dinner that is still a yearly fundraiser for Big Sur’s Captain Cooper School.

These days, the resort is not renowned quite as much for its pie as it is for something else: “People know us as the place with the chairs in the river,” says Mazurek. The indelible image of Adirondack chairs in the shallows of the Big Sur River, which flows next to the inn, has spread far and wide on social media. The idyllic scene in the shade of towering redwoods is a quintessential snapshot of Big Sur relaxation.

Ellen Pfeiffer Brown had an idea that a newfangled thing called a “motel” would draw visitors to the remote area.

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Colin Twohig, general manager at Big Sur River Inn, takes a break on a hot afternoon.

But there’s much more to the inn than those chairs. It’s still very much a comfortable place to stay, with 22 cabin-themed rooms, in addition to the charming stoneand-timber restaurant helmed by chef Adan Chavez.

The food, over the years, has evolved from basic diner fare to California cuisine, although the apple pie is still made according to the same homesteader recipe that Ellen Brown used back in the 1930s. The restaurant dishes up slices from one large pie per day, in addition to other housemade pies and cakes. “It’s a pretty traditional apple pie with an oatmeal topping, all made from scratch,” says Mazurek, who managed the restaurant for many years prior to her current role.

But as to be expected with new management, changes are being made—some of them actually aided by the pause in service forced by the highway closure.

One of the major projects was launching a new website and logo in April, with an online shop added in order to support River Inn business during the closure.

The pause also made it possible to refresh the River Inn’s general store with new paint, furniture and fixtures to make it more open and lively for guests and customers, says Laurel. She and Ben are now looking at ways to improve the business, with ideas and inspiration coming from the staff.

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long-time employee Victoria Perez, so now these are held on the inn’s lawn with popcorn available for locals and visitors.

The couple’s biggest priority is keeping the spirit of the River Inn alive. “It isn’t about making big changes, but rather uplifting how one can feel when they walk on the property. For example, the River Inn will always remain ‘the place with the chairs in the river,’ and will continue to foster an environment where families and visitors feel welcomed,” says Ben. “We love the rustic, cabin-style feel the River Inn has to offer. It’s important we preserve the Big Sur charm with these changes,” says Laurel.

For the 90th anniversary celebration this year, there’s been a fun addition—a huge 15-ton sand sculpture in front of the inn made by a local artist—and a robust assortment of live music throughout the summer and fall, with a weekly schedule available on the website. A special gathering honoring Jake Stock and The Abalone Stompers, a beloved local Dixieland jazz band, takes place Oct. 6.

Although it’s a far cry from his previous career in software sales, Ben Perlmutter says he and Laurel can’t imagine being anywhere else.

“We feel it’s in our blood,” says Ben. “And we both enjoy waking up every morning to chat about the next big tasks to tackle that day for the River Inn. It brings us far more excitement than nerves.”

Homesteader Apple Pie Courtesy Big Sur River Inn

For the filling ¼ cup sugar ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons nutmeg ¼ cup butter 2 ounces lemon juice 2 pounds apples, peeled and quartered 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ¼ cup cream For the trusty pie crust 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 pinch of kosher salt ¼ cup softened butter 1 tablespoon oil of your choice* 1 splash of apple cider vinegar For the crumb topping 1½ cups quick oats ¼ cup brown sugar

¼ cup white sugar 1 tablespoon softened butter 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 1 pinch of kosher salt Mix pie crust ingredients together until dough forms a ball. Roll it out in a circle and ease into 11-inch pie plate.

Preheat oven to 300º F. Mix together filling ingredients in a bowl and mix topping ingredients together in a separate bowl.

Mound apple mixture into the pie crust, filling 2–3 inches above the pie pan. Add crumb topping. Bake for 1 hour. Makes 1 pie. *River Inn makes at least 5 pies at a time and adds 1 whole egg to the dough for the crust. For making 1 pie, replace egg with 1 tablespoon oil of your choice.

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Pouring BEHIND THE BOTTLE

HISTORY

Pelayo Cider brings an ancient Asturian tradition to Hollister STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT ELIASON

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hough Anthony Copriviza has had a lifelong connection to his family’s 120-year-old Watsonville apple orchard, the idea of making traditional hard ciders never entered his mind until he and his wife Natalie traveled to the Asturias region of Spain and visited his first sidreria, or cider bar.

“We went to Asturias because we were told it was beautiful,” Copriviza says. “Cider wasn’t even a huge thing on our radar. I was never a fan of hard ciders—I was mostly exposed to sweet carbonated ciders, which I thought all ciders were.”

That all changed when the couple visited Restaurante Sidrería La Galana in Gijón in 2015, where they experienced true Asturian cider—and the rituals connected to it—for the first time, which led to the founding of Hollister’s Pelayo Cider.

“There were mostly older Spanish men there,” he recalls. “I remember going up to the bar and ordering a bottle. Usually, they give a group only one glass because they have a cultural thing about sharing, but they gave us two.”

The cider was uncorked, and the server held the glasses at about belt buckle height. With the bottle raised above his head, the server “threw” the cider into the glasses, pouring in a thin but accurate stream.

“They use really wide-mouth glasses,” Copriviza says. “They’d hold both glasses together in one hand and pour into each, giving it to Natalie first. It’s a couple of ounces and you are supposed to put it back like a shot.”

Traditionally, the drinker is supposed to leave a small amount of cider in the glass, which is poured onto the floor, meant to freshen the glass when only one is shared by a group.

“After you down it, you wait, trying to make eye contact, until they ask if you want another pour,” Copriviza says. “We must have drunk three or four bottles that night because we were so enthralled by evPelayo Cider founder erything.”

Anthony Copriviza A student of Spanish, he pepdemonstrates the Spanish pered the owners with questions style of pouring to aerate about what kind of apples were the cider.

used and how the cider was produced.

“One of the things they would tell us is, it’s just apples,” he says.

“And they would say, with a sense of pride, ‘There’s nothing else in there.’”

The Coprivizas spent the next two years discovering everything they could about cider-making before returning to the United States in 2017. They were determined to give it a try, and produced 10 gallons their first year.

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A student of Spanish, he peppered the owners with questions about what kind of apples were used and how the cider was produced.

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The process for making Asturian cider is ancient, first mentioned in Geographica by the 1st Century historian Strabo. He wrote of the Iberian people, “Zytho etiam utuntur: vini parum habent”—“They drink cider because they have little wine.”

It is also a relatively simple process compared to making wine or beer. Apples are harvested when ripe, washed and left uncovered in a barn for around two weeks until they sweat.

“With our first batch, we were worried about washing them, thinking it would remove all the yeast,” he says. “But we were also worried about contaminants, so we probably washed each apple by hand.”

After the apples sweat, they are washed again, crushed and left in open tubs for two more days, then pressed to extract every drop of juice. The last squeeze produces a dark juice that imbues the cider with a muskiness similar to a pétillant naturel wine.

They source apples from an orchard founded in 1900

by Copriviza’s great-great-grandfather, Croatian immigrant Peter P. Stolich. For decades, he and his son Peter L. Stolich shipped apples around the country before Martinelli’s started buying the entire crop for its cider and juice.

In 2022, the Coprivizas went into commercial production, making 250 gallons. They named the cider “Pelayo” after the first king and founder of Asturias and Calle Pelayo, the street in Madrid where they lived for three years.

Now in its third year, Pelayo has increased annual production to 1,000 gallons, making two versions: Pelayo Cider in 250 ml cans and Pelayo Cider Reserve in 500 ml bottles. Both are made using the same blend of apples, including Newtown pippin, Fuji, gravenstein, Mutsu, bellflower, winesap and black twig, but the reserve has a higher proportion of Newtown pippin and is aged longer.

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LUNCH & DINNER Pelayo Reserve Cider is sealed with a special cork that helps a beginner pour like a pro.

“The cans are an entry-level, more approachable style of cider,” Copriviza says.

“It’s lighter and more apple forward. The reserve is closer to the Spanish style, with more salinity and acid. It’s tangier with more musk and depth.”

The bottled version has a special cider cork manufactured in the Basque country. It is slotted along one-third of its lower length, allowing it to be pulled out just far enough to help the cider flow in a thin stream. Think of it as training wheels for the beginner cider thrower; the special corks allow the cider to be poured from a good height without spilling liquid everywhere.

With limited production, Copriviza distributes his cider mostly in San Francisco, Palo Alto, Santa Cruz, Aptos and Capitola.

“The Asturian style of cider is often very local,” he said. “Asturias produces 80% of Spain’s cider, and 90% never leaves the borders. So, for now, we’re happy with producing and selling it within the state, just sharing it with the people here.”

Hollister’s Crave Wine Bar carries Pelayo cider, and owner Mike Kohne is an enthusiastic supporter.

“A few words into our first conversation,” Kohne says, “I could tell we had to carry his ciders. He’s passionate about making this natural cider, and the ties to his family’s agricultural history are compelling.”

While Crave carries other ciders, Kohne finds Pelayo to be the most revelatory.

“It is fragrant but akin to fine wine,” he says. “It is super dry, and there is always something new in the bouquet as it opens up.

Once broken, it shows almost an effervescent and unique texture filled with nuance.”

Looking to the future, Copriviza has planted a small orchard that includes Newtown pippins, Fujis, granny Smiths and Ribston pippins next to his Hollister production facility. He hopes someday to open a sidreria of his own to bring the entire Asturian experience closer to home.

“We would like to find a way to make this every year and make enough money so it is worth our time,” Copriviza says. “We want to keep enjoying it and making this cider for the rest of our lives. That’s our plan.”

Robert Eliason lives in San Juan Bautista and has worked as a photojournalist and rare book dealer. Two years ago, he was asked to cover for an absent reporter and since then has written more than 900 freelance articles for publications in three counties. And he still has time to take the occasional photograph or two.

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IN THE KITCHEN

ROMESCO AND MUHAMMARA Sauces simmered through the centuries

STORY AND RECIPES BY ANALUISA BEJAR PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA

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something special and take us to faraway lands. Both are perfect ecipes are not always about cooking. They can be with seafood and chicken. They work wonders with vegetables, maps into ourselves and into history. Many lie dormushrooms and crusty bread. Add a thick layer to any grilled cheese mant in drawers, in books, in clipped pages from sandwich for a new dimension, cover roasted cauliflower with it or magazines, and sometimes in our minds. Stains, notes use it as a final touch to an omelet. It is also great on toast with and wrinkled corners occasionally begin to tell a story. poached eggs.

In a way, our favorite recipes mirror us. They reflect what we long Either of the sauces can be tossed with pasta. Treat it like its close for and wish to share with others, and maybe who we’d like to be. TryMediterranean relative pesto, by combining it with a little pasta cooking to figure out how far back these pieces of our puzzle go is always a ing water and adding it to the pasta. Dress up hummus or labneh with fascinating journey to the past. Centuries ago, did this spoonful taste as it for a crudité platter. Both sauces make a wonderful addition to any good as it does to me now? recipe collection.

Take one of Spain’s most emblematic sauces: romesco. It is also Recipes might have changed through the centuries, but their esknown as red sauce, salsa vermella in Catalan, the language of the resence has not; we all love a good sauce. It is fascinating to think we can gion where it’s from. have a big bite of history, right in our kitchen.

In its purest classical form, romesco includes almonds, ñora dried peppers, olive oil and garlic. Roasted tomatoes, hazelnuts, sherry vinAnaluisa Béjar loves exploring flavor routes as the chef at her Sunny egar and paprika have joined along the way. The result is a brick red Bakery Cafe in Carmel Valley. She is a recent transplant from Mexico paste that makes everything taste better.

City, where she was a food critic, award-winning writer, editor, recipe There are multiple iterations of romesco. A thinner version is developer, culinary teacher and the organizer of a Latin American gastronserved with grilled spring onions or calçots in the Catalan city of omy competition.

Tarragona, where it is taken very seriously. There are contests, manifestos and brotherhoods defending its origin and traditions.

Romesco was constructed through the Toss peppers, tomatoes, onion and garlic centuries, starting perhaps with the ancient with 4 tablespoons of the olive oil. Reserve This is a classic form of the sauce. It can be engarlic.

Middle Eastern technique of thickening riched by adding a leek to the roasting vegetables, sauces with almonds or other nuts, and using and maybe a slice of stale bread for texture or Arrange peppers, tomatoes and onion on a smoked paprika for depth. Hazelnuts are also a ingredients roasted gently among embers as baking sheet and broil or bake, turning as welcome addition. A simple Costa Brava version of the Romans did. These are some of the comnecessary to char the skin. After 20 minutes, the sauce can be prepared with canned fire-roasted mon bonds that bring us back to its distant, add garlic and continue roasting for 20 mintomatoes and red peppers from a jar. yet very close relative, muhammara. utes or until peppers and onion are evenly Muhammara is also a recipe with a wellcharred, tomatoes are charred and reduced 3 dried ñora peppers or dried traveled path and the name also means red and garlic is soft. ancho chiles sauce, in Arabic. The base is roasted red 6 red bell peppers peppers as well, and in this case, the dried Reserve the peppers in a bowl and cover 6 plum tomatoes pepper comes from Aleppo. It is thickened with foil, allow to cool, remove peel and ½ white onion with walnuts and held together with olive seeds and place in a food processor. Remove 4 cloves garlic, peeled oil. A very interesting addition is pomegranskin from tomatoes and place in the food 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar ate molasses, a sweet and sour touch resultprocessor alongside the onion, garlic, vin¾ cup almonds, blanched and ing in a bold mix of flavors that sing loudly egar, almonds, strained ñora pepper purée skinned in unison. And then there is Sikil pak, the and remaining oil. Purée until smooth.

1/3 cup olive oil Mayan sauce made with roasted tomatoes, Salt habanero peppers and ground pumpkin Serve at room temperature with grilled or seeds. Although extremely similar, we are pan-fried shrimp and a salad. Makes 4 cups.

Soak ñora peppers or ancho chiles in warm not sure how their history intersects. Or water until softened (about 20 minutes), maybe great minds think alike and create Note: If you cannot find ñora or ancho chile seed, purée and strain. with what’s available nearby. peppers, substitute 1 teaspoon of smoked Romesco and muhammara sauces are so paprika.

Preheat oven or broiler to 400º F. versatile they can transform any meal into

Romesco

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Muhammara

Aleppo peppers are grown in Syria and can be easily found in Middle Eastern markets and spice shops.

Emblematic of Levantine cuisine, they are mild, fruity and truly special for many uses. Pomegranate molasses adds a tart and sweet touch. If not available, lemon juice is a good substitute.

6 large red bell peppers 1/3 cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled ¾ cup walnuts 1 teaspoon ground cumin 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses ½ tablespoon ground Aleppo pepper or ground guajillo pepper 4 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped ½ cup pomegranate arils Salt

Bake for 20 minutes, turning as necessary to char the skin. Add garlic and bake for an additional 20 minutes more or until the peppers are evenly charred and garlic is roasted and soft.

Preheat oven or broiler to 400º F.

Process to a uniform but chunky consistency. Serve topped with chopped parsley, pomegranate seeds and, if desired, a drizzle of olive oil. Makes 2 cups.

Coat bell peppers with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Place on a baking sheet.

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Place peppers in a bowl and cover with foil, allow to cool enough to peel and seed them. Place cleaned peppers in a food processor with garlic, walnuts, cumin, pomegranate molasses, Aleppo pepper, salt and remaining olive oil.

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ON THE BAY

SEA URCHIN RANCHING

Efforts to save the kelp forest with urchin harvesting prove appetizing STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK C. ANDERSON

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zombie apocalypse is wreaking havoc on local habitats. And one surprising way to fight back is dining out—and eating uni—at some of the best restaurants in the area.

The annihilation has gone unnoticed by many because it’s happening underwater.

All along the California coast, purple sea urchins have gobbled up whole forests of giant kelp.

After they’ve consumed all there is to eat, the urchins survive despite braving starvation, in a hibernation-type state, creeping around

the ocean floor like the undead, forming spooky and spiky fields of purple called “barrens.”

Commercial scuba diver Grant Downie, who’s been harvesting urchins professionally for more than a decade, is familiar with the hollow reality.

“There’s no uni inside, no nutritional value,” he says. “It’s just a living, empty shell.”

Villainous disasters with cinematic names—The Blob and sea starwasting disease—helped create the urchin-kelp crisis, and hit local ecosystems starting around 2013.

Sea urchins become especially tasty when fed fresh spinach.

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“Time and time again humans have shown a proclivity to take something from the ocean if there’s money in it.”

The Blob is how scientists described a years-long marine heat wave that diminished oceanic nutrients kelp depends on, while also suffocating the towering plants with its warmth. Around the same time, the mysterious wasting disease started turning sea stars, which are prime sea urchin predators, into mush.

While some may have observed less kelp at the surface of places like Lovers Point cove, down below the effect was impossible to miss—the rough equivalent of visiting a redwood grove that’s standing there one month, then gone the next.

“When I first started diving, the kelp was so thick you could hardly swim through it,” says Downie, a second-generation dive pro. “We lost about 90% of the kelp along the Northern California coast and it hasn’t rebounded.”

A group of volunteer recreational divers launched the Giant Giant Kelp Restoration Project in 2018 and systematically smashed urchins with hammers. Thanks to their efforts culling hundreds of thousands of the sea hedgehogs, an entire 11acre area of giant kelp off Monterey’s Del Monte Beach recovered.

But the California Department of Fish and Wildlife didn’t renew its permit to cull urchins, in part because officials weren’t in love with the idea of killing a native and noninvasive species.

Fortunately, a group of ocean experts was at work on another type of zombie warrior strategy starring aquaculture and capitalism.

“The product tastes good, you can make money and do something good for the environment,” says MLML aquaculture expert Luke Gardner. “Why not have ranches up and down the coast?”

DOUBLE DIVIDENDS Down under Monterey’s commercial wharf, a former zombie has a new lease on life. And a destiny in fine dining.

This particular sea urchin was caught off the shores of Fort Bragg by commercial divers—where a number of them ply the trade, compared to the Monterey Bay, where very few do—then delivered to Monterey Abalone Co. MAC’s team then fattened up the little echinoderm orb and hundreds of others on a diet of kelp they’re accustomed to feeding their shellfish. Then they sold the urchins at a premium—uni, after all, is a delicacy that can sell for upwards of $275 a pound.

MAC operations director Kaitlin Rooney sounds more than pleased with the chance to ranch urchins.

“The project has been very successful, in terms of aiding in kelp restoration efforts and providing a great product to a large consumer demand,” she says.

This solution to the apocalypse started as part of a hands-on aquaculture class project at Moss Landing Marine Laboratories, part of San Jose State University’s College of Science.

Helping lead the way was Ph.D. marine science specialist and research faculty member Luke Gardner, whose work is funded by California Sea Grant, a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association program that partners with universities to, per its mission, “create and maintain a healthy coastal environment and economy.”

“We wanted to find out if we can economically incentivize the removal of sea urchins,” says Gardner. “Time and time again humans have shown a proclivity to take something from the ocean if there’s money in it. In this instance, it’s constructive and not destructive.”

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Aubergine executive chef Justin Cogley and his team craft transportive dishes with uni, including a rendition starring carrot juice emulsified with uni and butter, complemented by carrot tapioca pearls, fresh urchin and roasted purple carrots that evoke the echinoderm’s shell.

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When the MLML graduate students successfully harvested and plumped up hundreds of urchins—“They went from cobwebs inside to ready for market!” he says—they got more ambitious.

The group authored a successful grant proposal and promptly enlisted partners to test out three different ways to rehab hungry urchins: 1) in a converted shipping container using recirculating sea water; 2) at a flow-through farm near Santa Barbara with water pumped from the Pacific; and 3) in cages attached to a Monterey Abalone Co. barge floating in the harbor near Fisherman’s Wharf.

Meanwhile, Middlebury Institute’s Charles Cogan, director of research for the Center for the Blue Economy, helped track everything from man hours to facility costs.

“We looked into the economic feasibility of the whole process,” Cogan says, “and how to scale it so we can really bring this to people in California, and anyone else that wants to do an urchin ranching startup.”

As this goes to print, Gardner is readying a report for the project’s primary underwriter, the nonprofit Pacific States Marine Fisheries Com-

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mission. The analysis notes the floating barge system proves most profitable, and that other benefits besides zombie mitigation materialize, including cooperation between groups that have historically been at odds.

“U.S. aquaculture production lags far behind many other countries partly due to negative social perceptions,” the report reads. “One strategy to overcome such impediments to marine aquaculture is to align economic and environmental interests of traditionally opposing groups: fishing, aquaculture and environmental nonprofits. The purple sea urchin barrens causing mass deforestation of kelp in California and Oregon provide an opportunity to do such.”

The ranched urchins can go from famished to flourishing in as little as six weeks. As Gardner points out, “That’s a good turnaround for a luxury item.”

TASTE TEST Chefs like Aubergine’s Justin Cogley serve the ranched uni—first and foremost—for the flavor and texture. But he knows his audience basks in a backstory that what tastes so good is doing good too.

“Diners come with greater and greater expectations to have something new and exciting—amazing product isn’t enough, there has inauthentic detroit-style pizza to be the wow factor,” he says. “Guests who seek out restaurants like ours look for stories like this.”

That story sweetens with an additional layer: Sea Grant and Moss Landing Marine Labs have visited farmers markets to pick up leftover produce to feed the urchins, and conducted talks with Taylor Farms to do the same with scraps left behind after harvest.

“It’s an extra loop on sustainability since we can make the most of something the farm Inside Sante Adairius Rustic Ales Portal wouldn’t have used,” Gardner says. “Urchins 1315 Water Street, Santa Cruz aren’t picky eaters, and it’s fascinating to taste bookiespizza.com how the feed influences flavor.”

Spinach-fed urchins turn out to be particularly yummy, he continues, before adding another uplifting element: While two of the three ranching trials proved profitable—with the pump-through model difficult to implement because piping from the Pacific is both expensive and nearly impossible to permit— the trials represent rudimentary attempts by a raft of rookies.

“The first time you do anything you’re going to be inefficient, if not outright terrible,” he says. “As we really zero in on what matters, CHEFS • RESTAURANTS • HOME COOKS things will get a lot better.”

Sean Joseph (831) 917-1330 That last thought rings like a proverb MontereyCalifornia worth reiterating—and celebrating, perhaps with a tasty plate of uni.

Monterey Bay Knife Sharpening

Now at Friday’s Farmers Market!

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edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

EDIBLE D.I.Y.

Herbal Alchemy Inspiring and unusual ways of cooking with herbs

F

BY MARTIN HOELLRIGL PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS SCHMAUCH

all gardens are bursting with an abundance of fresh herbs. Most home cooks know how to add dried herbs to stews and beanpots for depth and scatter chopped fresh herbs atop everyday dishes to add sparkle.

But professional chefs have additional techniques that are well worth learning to expand your herbal repertoire. Try making an herbal oil, frying or drying herbs, infusing them in alcohol or even burning them for an herbal ash seasoning.

First, I take a grounding walk through my garden, which is also a foraging adventure every time. Crisp, tender herbs like chives, chamomile, basil, parsley, sage, borage, thyme, rosemary, coriander, oregano and marjoram grow there. There are also edible flow-

ers and colorful vegetables calling out to be picked. Today it’s tomatoes for bruschetta and butternut squash for a soup. I collect the ingredients, take deep breaths and inhale their invigorating fragrances, and feel truly alive.

Back in the kitchen, where the culinary alchemy begins, herbs are a magic trick for every chef. Try the techniques shared here and let the new flavors play together. Be inspired and keep inventing your personal dishes.

Chef Martin Hoellrigl is the founder of Capitola Garden Feast, a mobile hospitality service operating in Silicon Valley and the greater San Francisco Bay Area. He aims to immerse diners in the world of better food. Reach him at capitolagardenfeast.com.

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Make Herbal Oil

Basil Oil

Of all the garden herbs, basil has the loudest voice; it screams zest of the season.

4 cups fresh basil leaves* 1 teaspoon sea salt ¾ cup neutral oil, such as safflower, canola or light olive oil In a high-powered blender, combine the basil, salt and oil. Blend on high speed for about 1 minute, wait 10 minutes, then blend on high speed a second time for about 1 minute.

Line a strainer with a layer of paper towels or a couple of layers of cheesecloth and place the strainer over a bowl. Pour the blended oil into the strainer and allow the oil to strain for a good ½ hour.

Pour the oil from the bowl into a jar. Taste and add salt if needed. Makes ¾ cup.

Use basil oil on sliced fresh tomatoes and salads, drizzle it over chicken, fish or vegetables or use it as a dipping sauce for sourdough bread. *Herbal oil can also be made using herbs like chives, parsley, tarragon and dill.

Fry Or Dry Herbs

Fried Parsley

Parsley is the crown jewel of French cooking. And flat parsley, my humble hero, infuses a burst of dark green freshness into any culinary masterpiece.

1 handful fresh parsley 2 cups sunflower oil Salt and pepper Divide the parsley into sprigs. Rinse and dry them very well in a soft cloth.

Heat fryer or hot oil in a pot to 325° F. Drop the sprigs into the hot oil, a few at a time, and cook until there are no bubbles, turning over with a slotted spoon. Tap the spoon holding the fried parsley sprig to remove the remaining oil and gently drop parsley on a paper towel.

Now it is important to toss sprigs slowly and gently to remove the excess oil.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper. A small amount of oil will remain, which is good

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because salt and pepper will stick better to it. Use immediately.

Frying intensifies the parsley flavor and refines a dish. Try it on roast potatoes.

Alternatively, dehydrate parsley by laying the rinsed and dried stems on a sheet pan.

If your oven doesn’t have a specific dehydrate setting, set to lowest setting and open the door from time to time to flip the leaves. Dehydrating at low temperature retains more vitamins and minerals in any herb.

Expect the parsley to take 2-3 hours.

For the perfect dried parsley leaf, you’ll want to hear a crisp, clean break of the leaves. Store in jars for up to 1 year.

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Herb Infused Alcohol

Mint Vodka

Mint is the queen of cool, a microcosm of refreshment.

1 bottle high-quality vodka 1 bunch fresh mint Open the bottle and drink 2 shots of vodka to make space for the mint. Shake mint to remove any bugs or dirt. Insert the mint sprigs individually into the vodka bottle. Store in a cupboard for 24 hours; the vodka will turn brown-ish but will keep indefinitely. No need to strain.

Use mint vodka to make mintinis or double mint mojitos.

Infused vodka can also be made with different varieties of mint, lemon verbena, jasmine flowers, rose petals, lemon grass or fennel leaves.

Herbal Ashes

Rosemary Ashes Rosemary is the sovereign of herbs, a proud vigoresse. Now sun dried and with her piney aroma, she is ready to lend her magic to my good friend, the fire.

Harvest fresh rosemary branches from your garden and lay them in the sun for 1 week.

Use a flame torch and burn the dry leaves to ashes over a barbecued steak. The rosemary will not entirely burn, but its ashes will fall on the steak and give it an unmistakable Mediterranean flavor.

It will also impart a charcoal barbecue flavor to a pan-fried steak or one prepared on a gas grill.

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Choose from two ever evolving menus available for dinner and elevate your weekend with our Sunday Brunch.

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Dine Local GUIDE

All of these restaurants emphasize local ingredients and they also advertise in Edible Monterey Bay! Please check hours online before you go and tell them we sent you.

Davenport Roadhouse—just two songs north of Santa Cruz—serves awardwinning caramelized Brussels sprouts, salads, burgers, tacos and pizza.

(Photo: Alex Luhrman)

APTOS

BIG SUR

Persephone 7945 Soquel Drive 831.612.6511 • persephonerestaurant.com With a namesake like the mythic Persephone, this restaurant in Aptos proclaims its deep reverence for seasonal cooking. Themes central to harvest, winter and spring are core to Persephone’s story, and are reflected in the changing menu at this fine dining destination, where chef Cori Goudge-Ayer presents inventive, ingredient-driven creations. The restaurant is a family-run passion project, bringing together parents, siblings and a long history of culinary arts in a beautifully redesigned space overlooking Aptos Creek. Open for dinner W–Sa 5–8:30pm. Fourth Sundays, Winemaker Dinner with five-course pairing menu.

Big Sur River Inn Restaurant & General Store 46800 Highway 1 831.667.2700 • bigsurriverinn.com The River Inn opened in 1934, selling homesteader apple pies to locals and travelers, and this year celebrates its 90th birthday. The small family business is known as “the place with the chairs in the river.” Food and drinks are all made from scratch. Enjoy your meal under the redwoods with a view of Big Sur River or with your feet in the water. Visit the Burrito Bar for tasty graband-go fare to fuel your Big Sur adventures. Open daily 8am–8pm.

New Leaf Community Markets 161 Aptos Village Way 831.685.8500 • newleaf.com This latest branch of the beloved local market group occupies the remodeled Hihn Apple Barn, built in 1891.

In addition to local groceries and organic produce, New Leaf Aptos has made-to-order sandwiches, pizza, freshly rolled sushi, soup and hand-prepped salads, as well as a coffee bar, juice and smoothie bar and organic Straus soft serve ice cream. Open daily 8am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 141 Aptos Village Way, Suite 2 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

Seascape Foods 16B Seascape Village • 831.685.3134 A charming family-owned market with an ample deli counter featuring daily chef specials, salads, breakfast items, freshly squeezed juices and sandwiches on housemade organic sourdough bread. The grocery section includes organic produce, artisanal products, local beer and wine, and gifts. Eat outside next to the fountain on the patio or take your goodies to the beach nearby. Open daily 8am–8pm.

CAPITOLA Capitola Wine Bar and Merchants 115 San Jose Avenue 831.476.2282 • capitolawinebar.com Where the wines meet the waves, Capitola Wine Bar can be found in the seaside village of Capitola and offers small batch wines hand selected by its team of certified sommeliers. Wines from all over the world are available, by the glass, bottle or flight, along with local beers and a great kitchen. Events are always happening like Live Music, Paint Nights, Trivia Nights, Wine Blending and more. Don’t miss the dog-friendly patio and the $7 happy hour Tu–F 5–7pm. Open 6 days a week. For more information see website.

Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria 504 Bay Avenue 831.462.1200 • gaylesbakery.com A favorite with locals and a must-stop destination for visitors since 1978, Gayle’s Bakery offers freshly baked breads, pastries, cookies and cakes every day of the week.

The rosticceria is famous for its soups, salads, sandwiches and rotating Blue Plate Dinners, which are served hot and also available from the grab-and-go case to reheat at home. A dining patio with a fireplace and occasional live music make Gayle’s a community gathering place as well. Open daily 6:30am–7:30pm. ediblemontereybay.com

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New Leaf Community Markets 1210 41st Avenue 831.479.7987 • newleaf.com The café at the entrance offers great alternatives to fast food, serving economical daily specials, wraps, pizza and homemade soup and espresso drinks—with free wi-fi in the outdoor dining area. Inside the market, a full deli has made-to-order sandwiches, healthy takeout salads and entrée items. Open daily 8am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 820 41st Avenue 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–10pm, F–Sa noon–11pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

Trestles 316 Capitola Avenue 831.854.2728 • trestlesrestaurant.com Just steps away from the iconic Capitola train trestle, chef-owner Nick Sherman’s passion for great food is evident in every dish at his popular neighborhood bistro.

Local seasonal ingredients star in appetizers like chicory salad, roasted fairytale pumpkin with goat cheese and mole negro, Brentwood street corn and crispy pork belly with watermelon radish. Entrées include smoked eggplant gnocchi, Niman Ranch pork chop and fresh fish— all served with local wines and craft beers on tap. Open W–F 5–9:30pm, Sa–Su 4:30–9:30pm.

CARMEL Covey Grill 8205 Valley Greens Drive 831.620.8860 • quaillodge.com/dining/coveygrill Covey Grill at Quail Lodge features USDA steaks and sustainably sourced seafood complimented by unique plant-based offerings in addition to seasonal American cuisine. Covey Grill offers casually elegant indoor and outdoor dining options against the stunning backdrop of Quail’s sparkling lake and lush garden landscapes. Open for full dinner service Mon–Sun 5–9pm, with bar opening at 4pm.

Earthbound Farm’s Farm Stand 7250 Carmel Valley Road 831.625.6219 • earthboundfarm.com Earthbound Farm’s 100% certified organic kitchen delights with specialty coffee and tea, soft serve ice cream and a made to order breakfast and lunch menu—including soups, sandwiches, salads, baked goods, fresh juices and smoothies. Food is available to be enjoyed on the beautiful grounds or for takeaway. In addition to certified organic produce, the Farm Stand offers a selection of natural, organic, local beer and wine, groceries, gifts and flowers. Stroll through the gardens and learn about Earthbound’s commitment to organic integrity.

Open daily, but check hours online as they change seasonally.

Grasing’s 6th Avenue and Mission 831.624.6562 • grasings.com Chef-proprietor Kurt Grasing’s namesake restaurant has expanded since opening in 1998 to include two large dining rooms, multiple outdoor dining areas and the ever-popular bar/lounge. A Carmel classic located in the heart of the village, Grasing’s serves California cuisine, with an award-winning wine list and a vintage spirits program featuring classic cocktails made with rare Mad Men-era gins, whiskeys, Camparis and amaros. Open daily M–F 11am–9pm, Sa–Su 10:30am–9pm.

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Sea Harvest Fish Market & Restaurant 100 Crossroads Boulevard, Suite A 831.626.3626 • seaharvestfishmarketandrestaurant.com The Deyerle family that owns this local gem has its own fishing boats for the freshest catch on the Monterey Peninsula. Sea Harvest doubles as a fish market and casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. The oysters and clam chowder are customer favorites, but don’t miss the fried combo platter, grilled fillets and fish tacos.

Open daily 8am–8pm.

Stationaery San Carlos Square, Between 5th and 6th avenues 831.250.7183 • thestationaery.com A neighborhood restaurant offering daily brunch and lunch, Stationaery is owned by your hospitable hosts Anthony and Alissa Carnazzo. The kitchen team, led by chef Amalia Scatena, specializes in comforting flavors and local ingredients, with elegant presentations. A new bottle shop next door offers a good selection of European and California wines to enjoy with your meal or take home. Brunch daily 8am–3pm. Dinner Th–Sa 5:30–9pm.

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(831) 658-3400

CARMEL VALLEY Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market 2 Chambers Lane 831.659.2472 • jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com A chef-owned, friendly neighborhood market, Jerome’s offers local and organic produce, natural meats and seafood, and a great selection of domestic and imported wine, beer and microbrews. French-trained chef and owner Jerome Viel prepares delicious hot foods, sandwiches and salads for eating at outdoor seating or takeaway. The offerings start with breakfast burritos, croissants and other French pastries in the morning, followed by favorites such as coq au vin, spaghetti carbonara and chicken enchiladas for lunch and dinner. Open M–Sa 7am–7pm, Su 7am–6pm.

Lucia Restaurant & Bar Bernardus Lodge & Spa • 415 West Carmel Valley Road 831.658.3400 • bernarduslodge.com Indulge in artisanal California country cuisine, award-winning wines and an expansive heated outdoor terrace with the finest restaurant view in Carmel Valley. At this Forbes 4-Star charmer, named for the Santa Lucia mountain range and wine appellation that beckons to the south, executive chef Christian Ojeda offers both a signature tasting menu and dishes à la carte. Wine list is equally notable. A chef’s table and wine cellar are also available for private dining and special occasions. Open daily 7am–9pm. Saturday and Sunday brunch with live music 11am–2:30pm.

Marmee’s at Lady & Larder 9 Del Fino Place, Suite 101 831.689.9800 • ladyandlarder.com Named for the mother of owners and twin sisters Boo and Sarah Simms, Marmee is a weekend spa for the taste buds. Sit on the patio and sip natural wines by the glass, effervescent pet nats by the bottle, cold cans of Other Brother beer and Mommenpop vermouth spritzes. Snack on small plates of artisanal foods sourced from local purveyors, including Carmel Valley-grown produce and exquisite cheeses. Open Sa–Su noon–7pm.

Sunny Bakery Cafe 18 E. Carmel Valley Road 831.659.5052 • instagram.com/sunnybakerycafe Friendly local café offering homemade pastries, espresso drinks and light fare. Warm, welcoming service and a great array of treats made daily on site with wholesome ingredients that honor the seasons. Owner Analuisa Bejar heads the locally-minded kitchen with favorites like egg sandwiches, quiches, panini, frittatas, and irresistible BLTs. Buttery pastries, cookies, cinnamon rolls, muffins and cakes round out the list. Open W–M 7am–1pm.

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DAVENPORT

A Perfect Place For FoOd, Wine, Friends!

Davenport Roadhouse 1 Davenport Avenue 831.426.8801 • davenportroadhouse.com The iconic Highway 1 waystation cultivates a range of reasons to linger longer, starting with a wide menu starring rib-sticking plates like giddyup garlic bread, wings, fried pickles, salads and wraps, pizzas, burgers, steaks and a fisherman’s stew. Extensive dog-friendly outdoor patio seating (and doggie dishes); midweek specials like Taco Tuesday, Trivia Wednesday and Thursty Thursday with tons of $5 deals; and live music Friday through Sunday too. Open M 11am–4pm, Tu–Th 11am–8pm, F 11am–9pm, Sa–Su 9:30am–9pm.

FELTON Wild Roots Market 6240 Highway 9 • 831.335.7322 (Felton) 13159 Highway 9 • 831.338.7211 (Boulder Creek) wildrootsmarket.com Wild Roots’ 100% organic produce, natural groceries, organic meats and FishWise-certified seafood all go into the prepared foods offered by the store’s full-service deli, salad and soup bar and juice bar. Enjoy on the patio out in front or take home. Open daily 9am–9pm.

HOLLISTER

La Catrina Mexican Grill 449 San Benito Street 831.313.0905 • catrinagrill.com Family owned and operated since 2014, La Catrina offers classic Mexican tacos and enchiladas along with specialties, including chiles rellenos, cochinita pibil and garlic shrimp. Drink specials are available nightly, and there’s outdoor patio seating. Don’t miss La Catrina’s weekend brunches with chilaquiles, omelets, pancakes and menudo. Open M–Th 11am–9pm, F 11am–10pm, Sa 9am– 9:30pm, Su 9am–8pm.

Paine’s 421 East Street 831.637.3882 • paineshollister.com Hollister’s favorite casual fine dining destination for nearly 100 years, Paine’s offers a wide selection of tasty pastas, fresh seafood, grilled steaks and chicken dishes. The peaceful atmosphere and white tablecloths make it a good place to slow down and relax with a glass of wine, or enjoy a beer while watching a game at the bar. Banquet facilities are also available for large groups and special events. Open M–F for lunch 11am–2:30pm and dinner 4:30–9pm, Sa for dinner only 4:30–9pm. Closed Su. Running Rooster 800 San Benito Street 831.634.0135 • runningrooster.com With a passion for providing high-quality, honest food and great service, Running Rooster is a lively place to stop in for lunch or dinner. Choose among eight varieties of burgers, tacos, meal-sized salads and wood-fired pizzas. Heartier fare in the evening also includes steak, oven roasted salmon, short ribs and rotisserie chicken. There’s brunch on weekends, and a full bar serves craft cocktails, local wines and 23 beers on tap. Open W 4–8pm, Th 11am–8pm, F 11am–9pm, Sa 10am–9pm, Su 10am– 8pm. Closed M–Tu.

MONTEREY Ad Astra Bread Co. 479 Alvarado Street adastrabread.com Come for the legendary all-organic sourdough—Seaside sourdough, olive sourdough or seeded sourdough— slow-fermented in a two-day process. (Or the focaccia, or

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French baguette.) Stay for the big-city coffee and creative sweet treats, while enjoying the spirited and youthful service and watching the Ad Astra elves through the tall glass wall separating the cafe and production area. Open M–Su 7am–5pm.

Alta Bakery + Cafe 502 Munras Avenue 831.920.1018 • altamonterey.com Now in its fifth year, Alta is a local favorite with outdoor seating in an early California setting at the historic Cooper Molera Adobe. Chef/owner Ben Spungin has worked up and down the coast in Big Sur, Monterey and Carmel Valley for more than two decades, and his cooking philosophy is based on locally grown, seasonal ingredients and bright flavors that balance savory and sweet. Prioritize Alta’s pastries, but keep some space available for the nine-grain pancake, smoked-salmon toast and Bloomsdale spinach sandwich with Baker’s Bacon and green goddess dressing. Kombucha, beer and wine on tap too.

Open daily 7am–4pm.

Cella 525 Polk Street 831.920.1046 • cellarestaurant.com At the historic Cooper Molera Adobe in the heart of Old Monterey, Cella restaurant and bar is a sleek venue that reimagines early California and includes outdoor dining on a heated pergola patio. Legendary chef Cal Stamenov crafts a dynamic menu inspired by the bounty of the Central Coast. Barkeep Joshua Perry lines up creative cocktails and general manager/sommelier Bernabe De Luna creates an exceptional wine program. Cella hosts winemaker dinners, cocktail classes, private events and Sunday brunch, alongside its dinner service. Open Tu– Sa 5:30–9pm, Su 10am–2pm. the C restaurant + bar 750 Cannery Row 831.375.4500 • thecrestaurant-monterey.com Step into the C restaurant and the bustle of Cannery Row will seem like a world away. Elegant yet relaxed in ambiance, diners enjoy ocean views through the C’s floor-to-ceiling windows and on the C side patio. Executive chef Matt Bolton provides equally gorgeous food imaginatively prepared from sustainably sourced seafood, meats and produce. Food Network baking contestant Michelle Lee is sous chef, and puts her creativity to work for unique desserts and other menu contributions.

Creative craft cocktails are sure to please. Open daily for breakfast M–F 7–11am, Sa–Su 7–11:30am; for dinner Su–Th 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–10pm. The C bar opens at 4 pm daily, with Happy Hour M–Th 4–6 pm.

Coastal Kitchen 400 Cannery Row 831.645.4064 • coastalkitchenmonterey.com Executive chef Michael Rotondo’s tasting menu at Monterey Plaza Hotel’s flagship restaurant represents one of the most habit-forming in the region, but there’s a lot more to recommend this spot. From a newly-refreshed dining room, sweeping views of the Pacific await from each seat. Local delicacies receive elevated treatments: tempura artichoke with black button sage honey, woodroasted black cod with shishito, squash blossom and charred coconut jus, and king salmon with raspberry, aromatic herbs and seasonal tomatoes—paired with hand-picked top-shelf wines. It’s a place well worth the splurge. Open Tu–Sa 5:30–8:30pm.

Estéban Restaurant 700 Munras Avenue 831.375.0176 • estebanrestaurant.com At the heart of the downtown Monterey dining scene, Estéban Restaurant serves Spanish-inspired California cuisine made from local, seasonal ingredients, which can be enjoyed on the Mediterranean garden patio that

Visit our new tasting room in Carmel Valley Village

831-574-3042 | 24 W Carmel Valley Road

Drink well.

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Santa Cruz Urban Winery

Tasting room open T ursday-Sunday At Star Market you will find www.stockwellcellars.com 831.818.9075

the freshest, best tasting and finest selection of groceries in the Monterey Bay area.

Please visit starmkt.com for Delivery or Pick-up.

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Freshest Fish.

Largest Selection.

Staff of Life!

Staff of Life Watsonville is your go-to seafood center.

now includes a classic pergola with toasty heaters. The menu features a selection of long-time Estéban favorites, as well as new dishes like Vieiras con Jamón (seared scallops, Baker's bacon, citrus oil, basil English pea purée, citrus supreme and asparagus ribbon) and grilled Secreto de Ibérico pork, with charred sweet peppers, ñora pepper paste, scarlet mustard frill and Picual olive oil. Open for dinner Su–Th 4:30–8:30pm, F–Sa 4:30–9pm. Brunch Sa–Su 9am–1:30pm. Grab & Go Breakfast M–F 7–10am. Tapas Happy Hour from 4:30–6pm daily.

Jacks Monterey 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.7830 • jacksatportola.com Jacks Monterey provides a refreshing culinary experience in downtown Monterey, inside the Portola Hotel & Spa. Emphasizing local ingredients, high-quality seafood, and an award-winning wine and cocktail program, Jacks philosophy derives from globally-inspired traditions of California Cultural Cuisine. The atmosphere at Jacks is sophisticated—never pretentious. Open daily for breakfast 6:30–10:30am, dinner 4–10pm, and bar only F-Sa 10–11pm.

Monterey Beach Hotel 2600 Sand Dunes Drive 831.394.3321 • marriott.com Freshly refurbished, Monterey Beach Hotel sits right on Del Monte Beach with some of the best views in town. It offers three dining and cocktail hour options, including: The Lantern Room on the 4th floor serving fresh seafood paired with produce from local farms and wines curated by local winemaker Ian Brand; Tidewater on the beach, which comes with fire pits, blankets, lounge seating and a selection of hot cocktails; and Lobby Bar with equally stunning seascapes from floor-to-ceiling windows and a more casual menu of oysters, fish tacos and grilled cheese. Open daily, check website for hours.

2024 Business of the Year Huge selection of international wines and cheeses, and the freshest organic produce anywhere in Santa Cruz County

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906 East Lake Avenue • 831-726-0240

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edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

Peter B’s Brewpub 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.2699 • peterbsbrewpub.com Peter B’s Brewpub combines award-winning craft beer and sports on 18 high-definition televisions in a relaxed brewpub environment. Monterey’s original craft brewery is distinguished for its variety of beer on tap, innovative pub menu, happy hour, sports bar atmosphere, and outdoor dining on the pet-friendly heated patio with fire pits. Peter B’s is open Thursday-Monday with nightly happy hour from 4–6pm, as well as late night happy hour 9–10pm. Open Th-M 4–10pm. Sunday breakfast and football 9:30–11am from September to January.

Closed Tuesday and Wednesdays.

Schooners Monterey 400 Cannery Row 831.372.2628 • schoonersmonterey.com Residents regularly vote Schooners Best Drink With a View, and they’re not wrong. The eye candy rolls from the waves crashing on the tidal zone below to Seaside and Santa Cruz beyond, and the sippers are memorable. But that’s only part of the program. The seafood-centric menu ups the atmospheric effect with contemporary takes on a Monterey cioppino pot, seared sea scallops, Dungeness crab dip and Thai-style steamed mussels. Specialty cocktails, organic fresh-pressed juices and curated small batch beers and wine complete the affair. Open 7am–9pm daily.

Sea Harvest Restaurant & Fish Market 598 Foam Street 831.626.0547 • seaharvestmonterey.com This fresh and casual seafood spot near Cannery Row is perfect after a day exploring the Monterey Bay Aquarium. There are grilled entrées and lots of fried options with chips, including calamari, clams, prawns, scallops and oysters. Try Sea Harvest’s popular clam chowder or a basket of crispy artichoke hearts. Open daily 9am–7pm.

Tidal Coffee 400 Cannery Row 831.645.4030 • tidalcoffeemonterey.com Thoughtful coffee blends with organic beans headline here, but picnic-lunch goodies and house-made sandwiches also come recommended. Monkey bread, maple scones and almond croissants feature in early, followed by soups, salads and panini like the roast beef with horseradish aioli, grilled onion, slices tomatoes, smoked mozzarella and pickled peppers. The coffee shop aesthetic is cute, but the adjacent decks overlooking Monterey Bay present a superior spot to spoon a fig-mascarpone or vegan chocolate-hazelnut gelato with a fresh cortado.

Open Tu–Th 6am–noon, F–M 6am–4pm.

The Wild Plum Café & Bakery 731 Munras Avenue 831.646.3109 • thewildplumcafe.com Located in Old Monterey in a vibrant and diverse neighborhood, Wild Plum draws people from all walks of life with sustainable bistro fare that uses organic, locally sourced produce, hormone-free Diestel turkeys roasted on site, grass-fed beef and house-baked bread and pastries. Breakfasts include scrambles, omelets, and breakfast tacos and burritos and for lunch, soups, salads, paninis and burgers. Wild Plum has a new graband-go location at Ryan Ranch, with breakfast, lunch, bakery items and espresso drinks. Open W–M 7:30am– 3:30pm. Closed Tu.

MOSS LANDING Sea Harvest 2420 Highway 1 831.728.7081 • @seaharvestmosslanding Outdoor tables on a wooden deck overlooking Elkhorn Slough are the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood hauled in by a fisherman who is part of the Deyerle family that runs the restaurant. Choose from grilled catch of the day, shrimp Louie, fish and chips or some of the best Bajastyle battered fish tacos around. Open daily 11am–7pm.

Woodward Marine Market 10932 Clam Way 831.632.0857 • woodwardmarinemarket.com Moss Landing, population a few dozen, enjoys an outsized amount of beaches, marine research institutes and, thankfully, eateries. Its newest ranks among the most inviting. WMM occupies a historic location at the Moss Landing Harbor fuel dock that delivers place-appropriate fuel for the eager eater. Clam chowder and Monterey Bay calamari lead the way on the appetizer front.

A pair of salads offers roughage with style. Plates and bowls round out the menu—think bouillabaisse, fish and chips, Woodward burger, artichoke-prosciutto sandwiches and seared fish tacos. Local wines and Prosecco available, as well as local craft beer, including Alvarado Street, Other Brother, Fruition and Corralitos brewing.

Wood-fired pizza coming soon. Open Tu–Sa 11:30am– 6pm, Su 11:30am–4pm.

PACIFIC GROVE The Grill at Point Pinos 79 Asilomar Avenue 831.375.1313 • grillatpointpinos.com Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch seven days a week, The Grill at Point Pinos is a beloved local’s secret located at the Pacific Grove Golf Links. In addition to views of the greens and the ocean beyond, owner Tamie Aceves makes sure the food and hospitality are way above par.

Award-winning huevos rancheros and chilaquiles top the breakfast menu, but there are also eggs Benedict and bloody Marys garnished with Baker’s Bacon. Ingredients are fresh and local, and the restaurant is green certified.

Open Su–M 8am–5pm, Tu–Sa 8am–7:30pm. ediblemontereybay.com

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Julia’s Vegetarian 1180 Forest Avenue, Suite F 831.656.9533 • juliasveg.com Voted the best vegetarian/vegan restaurant on the Monterey Peninsula for more than 10 years running, Julia’s features inspired vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free food with a touch of class. Julia’s is well known for its fresh seasonal exotic mushrooms, elevated vegan desserts and house-brewed kombucha on tap. Julia's expanded breakfast menu is a great way to start your day, featuring breakfast hand pies, candy cap French toast and a cordyceps brunch bowl. Plus, everything can be made vegan!

Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

SPOTTED DUCK

RESTAURANT

Spotted Duck 542 Lighthouse Avenue 831.920.2662 • spottedduckpg.com Spotted Duck represents a dream come true for chef Jerry Regester, who’s been working his whole career for this moment, and a revelation for eaters. He does approachable cuisine with seasonal sourcing and comfort food instincts—think seared duck breast with green tomato and ginger jam, drunken octopus with preserved black bean honey sauce, and caramelized sea scallops with porcini mushroom blanquette. Located in the historic Holman Building in downtown Pacific Grove, Spotted Duck is an unpretentious, welcoming restaurant using quality ingredients and great technique.

Open Th–M 5–8pm.

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA Inaka Japanese Restaurant 313 Third Street 831.593.5100 • facebook.com Beloved by locals, Inaka has a vast menu of Japanese appetizers, soups, salads, tempura, teriyaki and noodle bowls, but most people come for the sushi. Try the San Juan roll with spicy tuna, cucumber and tempura crumbs topped with maguro, hamachi and avocado.

There is also a wide selection of vegetarian rolls and a dozen different sakes, some brewed locally in San Benito County. Open W–Su 4–8pm.

Lolla 201 Third Street 831.593.5064 • lollasjb.com Owner Sarah Griss has created a soup, salad and sandwich luncheonette in an adobe building right across the street from San Juan Bautista Historic Park. Lolla sources healthy food from local farms and food producers, giving customers a quick and convenient way to eat locally, seasonally and deliciously. Daily special soups are not to be missed. Open W–Su 11am–3pm.

Margot’s Ice Cream Parlor 211 Third Street 831.623.9262 • margotsicecreamparlor.com Bringing smiles to the people of San Juan Bautista for 25 years, Margot’s was originally opened as a retail outlet for wonderful handmade candies, including chocolatedipped apricots, almond butter crunch, marshmallows, oreos, grahams and pretzels, as well as 10 flavors of chocolate truffles. In addition, it offers 28 flavors of Lappert’s ice cream, espresso drinks and Dole pineapple whip.

Open M–Th 11am–7pm, F–Su 11am–8pm.

The Smoke Point 206 Fourth Street 831.593.5009 • thesmokepoint.com When Michelin-starred chef Jarad Gallagher wanted a project for his own community, he immediately thought of barbecue. San Juan Bautista holds a massive rib cookoff every spring and The Smoke Point is the restaurant he opened mid-pandemic for year-round BBQ. While most folks come for the brisket, ribs, tri-tip and pulled

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pork, don’t miss creative sides like Fuji apple and ginger coleslaw or crispy Brussels sprouts. There is local craft beer on tap and an imaginative weekend BBQ brunch.

Open W–Th noon–8pm. F noon–9pm. Sa 10am–9pm.

Su 10am–8pm.

Windmill Market 301 The Alameda 831.623.2956 San Juan’s friendly neighborhood grocer has everything you need for a picnic or quick meal, with ample outdoor tables and booths around the windmill. A fullservice deli counter and taquería offers made-to-order sandwiches and Mexican specialties like tortas, burritos, tamales and combo plates. There is also a salad bar, a hot bar and plenty of grab-and-go items. Open daily 6am–9pm.

SANTA CRUZ

r Seabright, Housemade pasta fo . e world since 2006 Santa Cruz and th 538 Seabright Ave | 831-457-2782 lapostarestaurant.com Wednesday through Sunday, we open at 5pm.

Bookie’s Pizza 1315 Water Street bookiespizza.com Located inside the Santa Cruz outpost of Sante Adairius Rustic Ales, Bookie’s Pizza is owned by fine dining veteran chef Todd Parker and offers “inauthentic” Detroit-style square pies. Each pizza is made using the best seasonal ingredients from local farms, fishermen and foragers. Dough is made with organic flour, naturally leavened for 48 hours, and each pizza comes with its own unique sauce. Open Su–Th noon–9pm. F–Sa noon–10pm.

Charlie Hong Kong 1141 Soquel Avenue 831.426.5664 • charliehongkong.com Charlie Hong Kong has been providing the Santa Cruz community with healthy, sustainable, affordable and high-quality food since 1998. The colorful, casual eatery’s delicious fusion of Southeast Asian influences and the Central Coast’s local organic produce have made it an inclusive, family-friendly, neighborhood favorite. Its slogan is “love your body, eat organic,” and its cuisine is proof that fast food can be good for you. All signature dishes are vegan with the option to add meat or fish.

Gluten-free options are available. Dog friendly. Open daily 11am–10pm.

105 Walnut Avenue • eathookandline.com 831.225.0434 • 4-9pm Thursday through Monday A modern California seafood eatery, now open in downtown Santa Cruz.

Crow’s Nest 2218 E. Cliff Drive 831.476.4560 • crowsnest-santacruz.com A perfect spot to enjoy breakfast and lunch or catch a dinnertime sunset over the harbor, the nautical-themed Crow’s Nest is a Santa Cruz institution that never goes out of style. There’s always something happening, from live music to comedy nights and happy hours. Famous for its salads, house-smoked salmon and seafood entrées, the Crow’s Nest is a member of Seafood Watch and is a certified green business. Open M–F 9am–8:30pm, Sa– Su 8am–8:30pm.

Far West Fungi 224 Laurel Street, Suite A101 831.226.2626 • farwestfungi.com The air surrounding the cozy café in downtown Santa Cruz is always infused with the delightful scents of savory mushrooms and truffles. Each visit offers a fresh experience with the seasonal menu featuring a variety of cooked and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive selection of dried mushrooms, tinctures, books and cultivation supplies ensures your pantry stays stocked with rare foraged treasures. Indulge in must-try delights like candy cap mushroom cookies, hot mushroom empanadas and truffle grilled cheese, complemented by locally brewed kombucha on tap. Open daily 11am–5pm.

Tune in Fridays around noon for Edible’s Mark C. Anderson and his Friday Found Treasures on 94.7 FM and streaming worldwide at KRML.com! ediblemontereybay.com

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Gabriella Cafe 910 Cedar Street 831.457.1677 • gabriellacafe.com A charming dining spot inside a Spanish-style bungalow, Gabriella Cafe pioneered farm-to-table cuisine in Santa Cruz. Head chef Gema Cruz serves a seasonal California-Italian menu starring organic produce from local growers and the nearby farmers market, as well as humanely raised meat and sustainable seafood. There is a candlelit patio and a cozy dining room that showcases the work of local artists. Open for lunch Tu–F 11:30am– 2:30pm, dinner Tu–Sa 5–9pm, brunch Sa–Su 10am– 2:30pm.

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The Grille at DeLaveaga 401 Upper Park Road 831.423.1600 • delaveagagolf.com/dining DeLaveaga earns obsessive attention for its trails, golf and disc golf, and it also enjoys a worthy epicurean program. The grill’s backdrop enhances the experience, with absorbing views, an outdoor patio and deck, welcoming fireplace and well-appointed bar. Food goes continentalCalifornian, local and organic, starring breakfast and lunch dishes like the croissant Benedict, the “Moss Landing-style” breakfast sandwich, the DeLa Black Angus burger and the “wedge shot” Louie salad with crab, bay shrimp or both. Open W–Su 8am–3pm.

Hanloh Thai Food 1011 Cedar Street 831.854.7525 • hanloh.com This community favorite from chef-owner Lalita Kaewsawang offers standout “nostalgic cooking rooted in Thai tradition,” at a residency inside the stylish Bad Animal bookstore. Bright flavors begin with Hatsu oysters with nam jimm dipping sauce and pomelo-grilled shrimp salad tossed with chili jam dressing and Thai herbs. Entrées include lemongrass black cod, claypot pork belly confit and double fried chicken thighs with coriander. That all comes complemented by friendly hospitality and a wide selection of natural wines. Open W–Su 5–9pm.

Hook & Line 105 Walnut Avenue 831.225.0434 • eathookandline.com Chef Santos Majano makes a welcome return to the Santa Cruz dining scene with his own seafood concept restaurant. Hook & Line taps local fishermen for the best fish and shellfish, then adapts the menu, whether it’s octopus, mussels, California halibut or just-caught Monterey Bay sardines. Oysters play a big role with a custom designed shucking station and several varieties on offer at all times. Happy hour all night Mondays and 4–5pm Th–Su features $2 oysters and special prices on wine and craft cocktails. Open Th–M 4–9pm.

Ivéta Downtown 545 Pacific Avenue 831.423.5149 • iveta.com This new restaurant at the lower end of Pacific Avenue near the beach provides a casual dinner experience and weekend brunch reminiscent of European seaside cafes. Don’t miss the seasonal salads, tasty appetizers, fresh pastas and the curated selection of fine wine and craft beer. Ivéta also operates cafés on the Westside of Santa Cruz and on the UCSC campus, in addition to manufacturing and distributing award-winning scone mixes throughout the USA. Pick up a package while you’re there and be sure to try the espresso drinks and house-made desserts. Open for dinner daily from 4:30– 9:30pm, and for brunch Sa-Su from 9:30am–2:30pm.

Johnny’s Harborside 493 Lake Avenue 831.479.3430 • johnnysharborside.com With sweeping views of the Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor, Johnny’s location assures fresh off the boat seafood.

Steamed Dungeness crab with drawn butter is always a

good choice in season, but don’t miss the clam chowder, fish and chips or Johnny’s authentic Italian-style cioppino. Crab-encrusted salmon, shrimp scampi and California halibut entrées are customer favorites, along with fish tacos, burgers and beer-steamed clams. Open T–Su noon–8:30pm. Closed M.

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Laílí 101B Cooper Street 831.423.4545 • lailirestaurant.com Exotic flavors of The Silk Road are served in a stylish dining room decorated in eggplant and pistachio colors and on a hidden candlelit patio. Locals rave about Laílí’s homemade naan served warm from the oven with a selection of Mediterranean dips. There is a wide variety of deliciously spiced vegetable dishes, and all meats are hormone free and free range. Open Tu–Sa 4–8pm.

Dream with Us

La Posta 538 Seabright Avenue 831.457.2782 • lapostarestaurant.com A cozy neighborhood bistro not far from the Santa Cruz yacht harbor, La Posta chef Rodrigo Serna prepares traditional rustic Italian cuisine using local ingredients. The emphasis is on simple, seasonal selections, with the balance of the menu reflecting whatever produce is freshest right now. La Posta also offers a great selection of Italian wines and a heated outdoor patio. Open W–Th 5–8:30pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Su 5–8:30pm. Closed M– Tu. The Midway 1209 Soquel Avenue 831.427.7187 • themidwaysantacruz.com Acclaimed Santa Cruz chef Katherine Stern pivoted from running a popular farmers market stand during the pandemic to opening her own restaurant at the end of last year. Don’t be misled by the diner-esque appearance of the small spot; inside, the vibe is sleek and modern, and the food is sophisticated. Whether you try the lemon verbena pancakes, the chicken chile verde or one of the salads from the daytime menu, all dishes star seasonal produce and ingredients from Stern’s farmers market friends. Likewise, dinner options change with the seasons and always include a housemade pasta and a vegetarian entrée. Carefully selected wines, beer and coffee roasted by Cafe Delmarette are available. Open Th–M 10am–2pm and 5–8:30pm, Sa–Su until 9pm.

plumbedelegance.com • 1658 Soquel Drive Santa Cruz • (831) 476-4455 Proudly Selling Made in USA Products • Gracing Beautiful Homes Since 1987

New Leaf Community Markets 1134 Pacific Avenue 831.425.1793 • newleaf.com New Leaf ’s headquarters in a former bank building on Pacific Avenue is a worthwhile stop for all foodies.

Crowded with gourmet natural foods, it also has a deli with sandwiches, salads and hot entrées. A dining area out front is great for people watching and listening to street musicians. Open daily 8am–9pm.

New Leaf Community Markets 1101 Fair Avenue 831.426.1306 • newleaf.com The Westside New Leaf has a large deli counter and coffee bar, with a big selection of sandwiches, salads, bakery items, soups and other hot foods. You can eat at an instore counter or at tables outside. Open daily 7am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 913 Cedar Street 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Lines out the front door of its converted Spanish bungalow are evidence of Penny’s popularity. All ice cream, including bases, is made from scratch on the premises using local organic ingredients when possible. Dozens of exotic flavors rotate seasonally, but two favorites are chocolate caramel sea salt and strawberry pink peppercorn. Open daily noon–11pm. ediblemontereybay.com ediblemontereybay.com

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The Picnic Basket 125 Beach Street 831.427.9946 • thepicnicbasketsc.com Across the street from the main beach, owners of The Penny Ice Creamery offer an alternative to boardwalk fast food. Sandwiches, organic salads, coffee and beer, all from local food artisans, and of course Penny’s popular ice cream, are all on offer to eat in or outside with your feet in the sand. A selection of grab-and-go foods, drinks and beach essentials are available in the newly expanded restaurant. Open daily 7am–4pm.

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Carmel Rancho Shopping Center 26135 Carmel Rancho Blvd in Carmel-by-the-Sea (831)-625-1454 | 9 AM-7 PM weekdays | 10 AM - 6 PM weekends

Pretty Good Advice 1319 Pacific Avenue prettygoodadvicesoquel.com Pretty Good Advice is the is the always vegetarian, and often vegan, place to go for a quick breakfast, lunch or dinner, as well as fruit-flavored seasonal lemonades and soft serves. Most PGA fruit, veggies, eggs and more are sourced from owner Matt McNamara’s farm in the Santa Cruz Mountains, lovingly nicknamed the Pretty Good Farm. Known for its mouthwatering hashbrown and egg sandwiches, unique seasonal salads and veggie burgers, Pretty Good Advice offers high-quality food at pretty good prices. Open daily in Santa Cruz and Soquel.

Staff of Life 1266 Soquel Avenue 831.423.8632 • staffoflifemarket.com A Santa Cruz landmark, Staff of Life started in 1969 as a small natural foods bakery and has grown over the years into a full service natural foods supermarket known for its local organic produce, seafood and natural meats as well as an extensive bulk department. Deli items and foods from the hot bar can be enjoyed at the Café del Sol. Open daily 8am–9pm.

Vim Dining & Desserts 2238 Mission Street 831.515.7033 • vimsantacruz.com Chef-owner Jesikah Stolaroff brings creativity and precision to her elegant New American cuisine, giving diners a clue to her background as a fine dining pastry chef. The seasonal menu might include appetizers like kimchi rice fritters, lamb meatballs or cherry burrata, with entrées such as pineapple trout, leek butter fettuccine or coriander crusted filet mignon—served in a tasteful dining room with a full bar or on the outdoor patio. Save room for unforgettable desserts and check website for occasional afternoon teas. Open W–Sa 5–8:30pm.

SCOTTS VALLEY The Penny Ice Creamery 262 Mount Hermon Road, Suite 104 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–9:30pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

SEASIDE

(831) 236-0483

Experience the beauty of custom garden design

lesleygrainger1@gmail.com • lesleygraingerdesign.com

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Other Brother Beer Co. 877 Broadway Avenue 831.474.1106 • otherbrotherbeer.com The main attraction here is fresh, delicious beer. However, the brewery’s brand new kitchen inspires a visit on its own. Not coincidentally, dishes are designed to pair poetically with Other Brother’s house beers. The menu features goodies like its signature smashburger, fried chicken sandwich, mushroom melt, wings, fries, a hearty smoked BLT, a lovingly crafted spicy capicola sandwich, creative and refreshing salads and an all new brunch menu on Saturdays and Sundays. Check out the full menu on the website and visit the brewery taproom open M–Th 11:30am–9pm, F 11:30am–10pm, Sa 10am–10pm, Su 10am–8pm.

SOQUEL

OCTObER IN SANTA CRuZ COuNTy

OPEN STUDIOS

HOME 3101 N. Main Street 831.431.6131 • homesoquel.com Plenty of restaurants aspire to extend the type of hospitality you get at a best pal’s place. Here that happens in ways that honor the name. Dishes like abalone cassoulet, wild mushroom ricotta gnocchi and panzanella salads, curated local wines and, yes, a homespun setting—starring a huge vegetable garden in back—help chef Brad Briske and his snout-to-tail program shine. Speaking of meat, the beef tongue, steak tartare and bone marrow rank among the reasons to head HOME. Open W–Mon 5–9pm.

art tour 2024

PRESENTING SPONSOR

Pretty Good Advice 3070 Porter Street 831.226.2805 • prettygoodadvicesoquel.com Open daily 8am–5pm. See PGA description under Santa Cruz for more.

Gizdich Ranch 55 Peckham Road 831.722.1056 • gizdich-ranch.com Visitors from all over love this fourth-generation, familyrun farm business that popularized the “pik-yor-self ” experience just east of Watsonville. Tour the farm, pick fresh apples or berries or watch the action inside the juice-pressing barn. No one leaves hungry if they spend time at the bakery-deli that pleases with its fresh pies, shortcakes and pastries, along with hearty sandwiches and box lunches. This family-friendly experience is also a treat for kids, who will enjoy the wide-open spaces and the homemade popsicles. Open daily 9am–5pm.

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WATSONVILLE

MAJOR SPONSORS

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Staff of Life 906 E. Lake Avenue 831.726.0240 • staffoflifemarket.com Opened in 2021, Staff of Life’s second store in Watsonville is its first and only branch. The store is sustainable down to its bones and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and baked goods you would find at the Santa Cruz store, along with a juice and smoothie bar, freshly made sushi, a gelato bar, a full deli and a hot bar.

Open daily 8am–8pm.

TRESTLES CAPITOLA, CA

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LAST CALL

BREAKING TRADITION Laili restaurant blends Afghan and Mediterranean flavors

BY ASHLEY DREW OWEN PHOTO BY GENEVA RICO

I

n the Arabic tale of Layla and Majnun, a young woman and a poet fall madly in love but are forced apart by an arranged marriage. This tragic romance inspired centuries of songs, art and poetry throughout Central Asia and the Middle East.

It also inspired the name of Wafi Amin’s restaurant Laili in Santa Cruz. Located on Cooper Street, Laili celebrates the cuisine of Amin’s home country of Afghanistan while incorporating Mediterranean flavors. From the homemade naan bread served with a tabbouleh-like dipping sauce, to entrées like pomegranate eggplant and meat kebabs, and desserts like cardamom crème brûlée, the dining experience is a culinary exploration.

“I didn’t want it to be one culture’s food.

The idea was to make the menu so everyone feels comfortable to taste things,” says Amin.

“Some are family recipes, others I searched for...I’m very good at breaking tradition.”

Amin moved to the San Francisco Bay Area in 1975 to explore the U.S. and study, but when Afghanistan was invaded by Russia a few years later he became an asylum-seeking refugee. After dropping out of school to support his family, his first job was in the kitchen of a French restaurant.

He cut his culinary chops in the back of house, then spent a few years working in the insurance industry, before returning to the food world in 1986 to open his own restaurant. Located in Albany, it was a fast-casual eatery called 360 Gourmet Burritos that introduced worldly flavors, like sweet hot duck and Cajun chicken, to the inside of a tortilla.

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“For the first five years, I was just making ends meet,” says Amin, “Then I opened the second location in Alameda in 1991, and from there every year I opened one or two more locations…then I franchised the concept and kind of lost interest.”

360 Gourmet Burritos locations still exist in the Bay Area and at many U.S. airports, but Amin needed a break from the food world after years of grinding and expanding. It wasn’t long before he was hit by his next big idea.

While having lunch with a friend at the old Lulu Carpenter’s in the Octagon Building in 2010, the two noticed a vacant storefront across the street. The next thing Amin knew, he was talking to the realtor and envisioning what he would do with the space.

“It was an imagination, but being an entrepreneur I saw the potential,” says Amin. “Then the name popped up. Laili means “night beauty.” It is an Arabic name and is also from the story Layla and Majnun.”

Since opening in 2011, Laili has become known for its enchanting back patio and its unique take on Afghani and Mediterranean food. The fragrant Kabuli rice, served with the kebabs, is a staple of dining in Afghanistan.

The menu brings together ingredients in unexpected ways—such as hummus made with roasted butternut squash for added richness—and every food item, except for the ice cream, is made in-house.

“The plates are a representation of a merging of cultures,” Amin says. “Diversity makes it more beautiful. Each one of us is a dimension of God. Each perception is different and merging those is very beautiful to me.”

edible MONTEREY BAY FALL 2024

Qay Maag Chai Courtesy Wafi Amin, proprietor, Laili Restaurant in Santa Cruz Qay Maag Chai, also known as Afghan Pink Tea, is a traditional beverage enjoyed on special occasions such as weddings and engagements in Afghanistan. The tea’s distinctive pink color comes from a unique reaction between green tea and baking soda. Historically, it has been served to symbolize hospitality and warmth, often accompanied by sweet desserts and dried fruits.

4 cups water 3 tablespoons green tea ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 cup sugar to taste 2-3 cups milk ½ teaspoon cardamom Prepare the Tea Base: In a pot, bring 4 cups of water and 3 tablespoons of green tea to a boil. Boil for about 10 minutes until the tea leaves open up.

Create the Pink Color: Add ½ teaspoon of baking soda to the boiling tea. This will cause a fizzing reaction that helps turn the tea pink. Aerate the tea by pouring it back and forth between two pots for about 10 minutes, which helps achieve the desired pink color.

Finish and Serve: Strain the tea to remove the leaves. Add 2-3 cups of milk to the tea to enhance the pink color and richness. Warm the chai, then add sugar to taste and ½ teaspoon of cardamom for flavor. Serve hot.

Makes 6 servings.

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