Always follow the manufacturer’s directions on the product you are using. Daub on a thick layer of remover with a natural bristle brush (some synthetics may dissolve), let it stand, and allow sufficient time for it to work— anywhere from a half hour to overnight. The container directions will tell you how much time to allow. Test from time to time with a steel putty knife and when the old finish is softened down to the wood, use the putty knife to gently remove it. Put the residues in a tin can for proper disposal then spot apply additional remover in stubborn spots. When stripping paint, most removers cause paint to bubble up and thus may require multiple applications to remove all material down to the wood. A wash with appropriate solvent is next, using the chemical specified by the manufacturer of the remover. Some require methyl hydrate, some require mineral spirits and others require water. With water, use a non-metallic abrasive pad and with the others use No. 1 steel wool. Remember to rub only with the grain of the wood, never across it, to avoid scratches which will show badly under your later finishing. Keep some old rags or paper towel handy and wipe up the grunge frequently. A final solvent wash with a piece of towel should remove the last of the residues. Wash
rags etc. can be disposed of along with the old finish residue.
Colouring Up Once the wood is clean, allow to dry for a few hours. If you opt to stain it, remember that you cannot stain something lighter than it is. Various water based stains are available at the paint store and these can be mixed for an even greater variety of colours. Some woods, like pine and fir, may require a pre-conditioner before the colour coat and you should be guided by the manufacturer’s directions. Stain should be wiped on and wiped off. Allowing stain to remain on the surface generally makes more work for you as you try to get clean colours. When you stain, work quickly to minimize lap marks. Stain, especially water stain, should be allowed to dry thoroughly before applying a finish coat, to avoid colour bleeding.
The Finishing Step When finishing an antique, a basic convention is to replace the old finish with an identical one. If that is not possible, replace the finish with one that can be cleanly removed at a later date. Modern
finishing materials are not suitable for antique furniture. Polyurethanes and acrylic finishes are inappropriate as they were not finishes of the period. Most oilbased varnishes have disappeared due to changing environmental rules, seriously reducing available choices. Unless originally used, oil finishes, like linseed oil, should be avoided as they cannot be later cleanly removed. So, what are the choices available? Reasonable choices are: brushing lacquer; paste varnish; shellac; or wax over a shellac base. Paste varnish is a good choice for use at home, being low odor, easily applied with a clean, lint-free rag in very thin coats and yielding a most satisfactory result. Three or four coats are usually required. Lightly wipe with No. 000 steel wool, between dried varnish coats, to remove any dust which may have settled. Be sure to remove all the steel wool residues as well — a vacuum cleaner with a dusting brush will make short work of this task. The varnish finish can be waxed when totally dry (allow two weeks) for a beautiful, mellow, finish which can easily be renewed if you want to shine it up from time to time. The wax polish does not hold dust. A wipe with a soft, dry cloth is all you need to keep your furniture shining. FHS