Adventure Pro Spring 2020

A D V E N T U R E P R O . U S

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A HARD RESET SAYING FAREWELL TO AN INTENSE SKI SEASON CANOEING LABYRINTH CANYON THE HIGHS AND LOWS 5 NAVIGATION APPS YOU’RE LOST WITHOUT ONE! SILVERTON OR BUST THE IRON HORSE BICYCLE CLASSIC FOR THE ADVENTURER IN ALL OF US

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CONTENTS

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46 FE AT U RE S

10 A HARD RESET

Powering down after a mind-numbing season of shredding Colorado’s most extreme slopes beckons bikes, friendship, fields of dandelions – and more shredding! by josh jespersen

14 GRAND CANYON PHOTOGRAPHY OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

The best opportunities to capture Grand Canyon photography are found away from the crowds — and closer than you may realize. by bruce grubbs

20 TECH TREK

Mobile navigation tools to plan your next adventure. by hunter harrell

22 CHRISTENED BY THE BLACK

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park should be on every rock climber’s bucket list — even rookies. by morgan tilton

26 SILVERTON OR BUST

You don’t have to be a pro to ride like the pros in the Iron Horse Bicycle Classic Citizen’s Tour. by tiona eversole

30 THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF

CANOEING LABYRINTH CANYON Fluctuating water levels of the Green River are key to what you can see and do — and tolerate — in Labyrinth Canyon. by andrew gulliford

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D EPARTMENTS

05 WHAT’S ONLINE 06 OPENING SHOT 08 OUTDOOR VITALS

ABOUT THE COVER Mark Oppegard rappels into a canyon in Utah's North Wash area south of Hanksville. photo by Terrance Siemon

Flash flooding

36 BEHIND THE LENS 38 GEAR BIN 40 SIPS ‘N’ SUDS

Flagstaff Ale Trail

42 KILLER WEEKEND Ridgway, Colorado

46 HIDDEN GEMS Spring wildlife awakening

48 CALENDAR 50 READERS’ PHOTO 52 WILD VOICES

Sam Higby coffee maestro

54 VISTAS

Editor's Note: In the Winter 2020 issue the main photo on pages 24-25 in the story “Natives Outdoors: Rising in Winter” incorrectly credited Steven Recalma. The photo belongs to Isaiah Branch-Boyle. See more of Isaiah's work in this issue in “A Hard Reset” and on Instagram at @isaiahjboyle. We regret the error!

EDITOR'S NOTE

T H E FOR THE ADVENTURER IN ALL OF US EDITORIAL

Jan Nesset editor Colleen Donley art director Terrance Siemon photographer & videographer Laurie Kain photographer & videographer Hunter Harrell copy editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Tiona Eversole Nancy Prichard Bouchard Lis McLaughlin Morgan Tilton

Josh Jespersen Jay Corbin Bruce Grubbs Andrew Gulliford Jenny Johnston

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Isaiah Branch-Boyle Raleigh Coburn Eric Dacus Adria Ellis Tiona Eversole Nicole Greene Bruce Grubbs Andrew Gulliford

Sam Higby Ed MacKerrow Jerry McBride Barrack Naggan Scott DW Smith Lance Sullins Morgan Tilton

A DV E R T I S I N G

Jamie Opalenik director of multimedia sales Amy Baird Abby Feldman Tana Bowen Heather Mobley Kelly Bulkley Joe Nelson Shelly Corwin Teressa Nelson Cole Davis Shell Simonson Colleen Donley Chandler Sommerfeldt MARKETING

Kyndal Carter marketing coordinator DESIGN

Tad Smith manager of creative services Gary Markstein designer I N T E R AC T I V E

Jace Reynolds web designer Skylar Bolton web development M A N AG E R

Douglas Bennett chief executive officer Carrie Cass director of finance /ADVENTUREPROMAG @ADVENTUREPROMAG ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE @ADVENTUREPROMAGAZINE ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE

© 2020 All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Published in the United States by Ballantine Communications, Inc. 1275 Main Ave., Durango, CO 81301.

Ballantine Communications uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special publications. Details are subject to change, so please check ahead. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this guide. We welcome suggestions from readers.

Please write to the editor at the address above.

G IF T

OF

UNINTENDED CONSEQUENCES

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A first step into the outdoors could be at the hand of a friend or family member, by taking a class or by simply plunging in. However we enter the outdoors, we should expect our fair share of triumphs and mistakes. Together they plot our individual process of discovery, which we hope is a lucky streak of unintended consequences that builds confidence and purchases our path to outdoor savvy.

Lucky me, I was raised in the last house on a street where our back door led to a tremendous expanse of public land, creek included. Exploring the nooks and crannies of a backyard badlands shaped me into an effective opportunist, exposing me to the dangers of heights, wildlife, dicey water, dehydration, fatigue, getting lost − and the gratification of discovering how to know better.

As a college student in a mountain town, my friends were my climbing and paddling guides, complete with gear. The badlands had prepared me well for the mountains, so physically the legwork came easy. Then, as a young editor of a national paddlesports publication, I relished the opportunity to become a proficient whitewater paddler.

“Everybody’s entry into the outdoors is as different as how we choose to pursue the outdoors when it enters our blood.”

Now I’m a dad. My wife and I share the same approach to raising outdoor kids, which is to just get them out there.

We anchored our first child − asleep in her baby carrier − to the base of a climbing crag while we top-roped routes in Jack’s Canyon. She fit nicely into the front stash pocket of my day pack the day we forgot her backpack carrier on a climb in the La Salles (see photo).

By the time her sister arrived, so had some rules. And the realization that Kid One was nothing like Kid Two, who was ripping up Durango’s BMX track even before she had a bike with pedals. As the youngest, her little legs worked twice as hard to keep up on our

approaches to mountains, which may be a big reason she became gleeful when the climbing got steep.

Everybody’s entry into the outdoors is as different as how we choose to pursue the outdoors when it enters our blood.

The stories in this issue represent those differences. From cover to cover the issue is rich with writing from talented writers whose approaches to the outdoors are vastly different.

Morgan Tilton travels the world seeking stories. Prior to heading to British Columbia to sync up skiing and surfing in the same 24-hour period, the author and writer wrote “Christened by the Black” for this issue. A novice rock climber, this is her story about upping her rock-climbing game with a multi-pitch route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

A former editor of Adventure Pro, Tiona “Ti” Eversole tackled the Iron Horse Bicycle Classic in 2019 and writes about it in “Silverton or Bust.”

A conditioned mountain biker, Ti put in just four rides on a road bike before accomplishing the Iron Horse. That grit put insight into her words!

Writer Josh Jespersen is one of those outdoor athletes who frequently pushes his limits to the abyss of possibility – and then chooses to take a break with more of the same, albeit less and different. In “A Hard Reset” Josh contemplates his motives and finds a landing.

In the end, what makes our experiences valuable is not that they take place outdoors, but the journeys we follow outdoors. They plot our story.

So, what’s your story?

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SUBSCRIBE!

ADVENTURE PRO IS AVAILABLE WHEREVER YOU ROAM.

photo by Terrance Siemon

Online at adventurepro.us

Inspired, ready for more? If you’ve pored through this issue and find yourself hyperstoked for more tales of exploration and adventure, keep reading. We’re online at adventurepro.us where you can find a robust lode of inspiring content — stories, photography, video — covering the topics you’re accustomed to reading here in our print magazine.

A sampling of recent stories you’ll find online at adventurepro.us: ›› How I Found my Adventurous Self —

and Why I Envy American Women ›› A World of White Awaits at Vallecito Reservoir ›› DryGuy Force DX Drying System ›› Ask Yourself These 6 Questions to Determine if Adventure Racing Is for You ›› MSR Lightning Ascent Snowshoes ›› Adventure Pro Magazine Sponsors Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour ›› The Two Sides to the Ironton Park Ski Area ›› Outdoor Conservation Issues on the Boilerplate in 2020 ›› The Skiing’s Great — and Apply for That River Permit ›› Up Your Leave No Trace Game This Winter ›› Fly Fishing on the Animas River Recovers After Disaster ›› Cross-country Skiing the Skyway Ski Trail System on Grand Mesa ›› Ski Resort Webcams Help to Keep an Eye on the Prize ›› The Healing Power of Mother Nature ›› Eco-friendly Ski Resorts? It’s (Sort of) a Thing ›› Experiencing Mesa Verde in Winter Becomes the Upside to Falling ›› Top 5 Fall Running Workouts to Increase Speed ›› Readers’ Photos: Climber Spotlights Stellar Routes Abroad and at Home A DVENT UREP RO. us/SUBSCR I B E

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Also online, click the “Share A Photo” tab on the top-right of the menu and you’re on your way to sharing photos of your adventures with Adventure Pro readers. You just might see them show up in a future issue of our print magazine!

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F R E E FA L L I N ’ On a hike up Oh-be-joyful Creek in Crested Butte, Colorado, we came upon a group of kayakers who had traveled from Tennessee to experience the massive spring flows occurring in our state’s creeks and rivers. We scrambled down the cliff to the base of this powerful 20-foot waterfall to capture images of one of the most incredible creek runs of the season.

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O U T D O O R V I TA L S

FL ASH

FLOODING Dangers and Safety Considerations by

As winter turns to spring in the Rocky Mountains, snow runoff and spring storms can cause flash floods, posing a threat to outdoor enthusiasts and visitors enjoying the gorgeous landscape. As the name suggests, flash floods are floods that occur swiftly (according to USGS within LIS McLAUGHLIN 3-6 hours of heavy rainfall or other causes) potentially catching people unaware. Western Colorado is particularly prone to this natural catastrophe due to its precipitous mountains.

RAIN Mountains are predisposed to heavy rainfall due to the orographic effect. As air sweeps up the mountainside, climbing in elevation and dropping in temperature, the clouds anchored around the summits are affected by the cold, high-elevation temperature. Subsequently, the clouds release moisture, resulting in heavy storms in the high country.

During a downpour, the rugged mountain terrain factors into the flood hazard. Much of the landscape is comprised of a rock layer with a thin layer of surface soil. The thin layer of soil easily washes away in these storms, creating channels of exposed rock through which water can easily flow.

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WILDFIRE Another major contributing factor to flash floods are wildfires. Where wildfires are common, the resulting burn scars contribute to the risk of flash flooding. Any vegetation that would serve as a runoff-reducing layer of “forest litter” consumed by fire, leaves a loose, ashy, burnt top layer. The intense temperature changes can further create a “hydrophobic layer” underneath; simply, a layer of water-repelling earth. Any water from storms that would normally be absorbed, runs over the hydrophobic layer, accumulating loose debris and ash from the top layer, possibly resulting in a “debris flow.” The high risk of flash floods in burn scar areas can last years.

DROUGHT Like wildfires, droughts are also common to Colorado.

Parched, drought-dried earth is not particularly absorbent and offers poor support for vegetative growth. A sudden, heavy downpour – instead of soaking into the earth – will quickly turn to runoff, flooding the dry earth.

FAST AND POWERFUL Flash floods are extremely dangerous: they happen so quickly that they can catch people unaware. They are also immensely powerful, harnessing the power to overtake huge objects such as trees and boulders.

While there are many factors that can contribute to the scale of and damage caused by a flood, all swiftly

A flash flood can quickly overtake a slot canyon. Pay attention to your surroundings and plan an escape route should a flash flood pose a threat.

As stated, rapidly moving water currents are extremely strong. Never attempt to cross a swiftly flowing stream on foot, on a bike, or in a motor vehicle, even if the current is shallow.

If a rapidly moving stream is rushing across trail, do not attempt to cross it.

Flash floods overtake landscapes in an instant. If caught in a risky flood situation, get to higher ground as quickly as possible. photo by Jerry McBride

moving bodies of water are quite dangerous and ought to be approached with respect and a healthy amount of fear.

As a trip leader certified in swiftwater rescue, I would often make the point in safety speeches of the possibility of drowning in even just a foot of water. A swiftly moving current, even in shallow water, is strong enough to overtake a person. If a foot were to become entrapped between rocks while the person is pushed face-down by the current (commonly referred to as a “foot entrapment�), it would be very difficult for the person to escape, and would involve a difficult, multi-person rescue.

PREPARE Adventuring in the spring, regardless of the outdoor activity or mode of travel, runs the risk of encountering a flash flood due to

mountain snow runoff and spring storms in the high country. Preparedness is the key to maximizing enjoyment and staying safe outdoors.

It is best to pay attention to the weather conditions and avoid outdoor adventures in stormy weather. Weather is fickle in the high country, and a sunny day can turn cloudy and precipitous rapidly despite a favorable weather forecast. Furthermore, mountain snow runoff may be flooding creeks, inundating the rivers, washing over trails or causing mud or landslides. Consulting sources like USGS can be immensely helpful in trip planning, especially around creeks and rivers, where floods are more predictable.

When adventuring, be mindful of your surroundings and always have an escape route planned.

WHILE RIVER FLOATING Flood waters carry debris, especially if flooding happens around a burn scar. The debris, carried by the flowing water, can be difficult for paddlers and floaters to see in mud laden waters; thus quite dangerous to boat and swimmer alike. Whether in or by a river, creek or low-lying area flooded with muddy, thick water (known as debris flow), it is best to get to higher ground as quickly as possible.

FINALLY One last safety consideration: Flash floods and debris flows can obstruct and wash out trails and trail markers, making it easy to become lost. Simply bringing a GPS, a map of the trail or someone who knows the trail well can mean the difference between a great trip and getting lost.

LIS McLAUGHLIN is a full-time manufacturer in the cannabis industry and freelance writer based in Durango, Colorado.

In her free time, she is an outdoor recreationalist, fitness enthusiast and avid pursuer of knowledge.

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a

HARD

Reset p h oto g r a p h y by

ISAIA H BR A N C H- BOY LE JOSH JE SPE R SE N

sto ry by

Powering down after a mind-numbing season of shredding Colorado’s most extreme slopes beckons bikes, friendship, fields of dandelions – and

S

more shredding!

Seasons change, and so do the courses of our lives. Sometimes we are so completely lost in all the chaos that it feels like there is no way to escape the fray. No way to dig ourselves out from under the pile of expectations we assign ourselves.

We can be buried so deep in the work that we create, all to chase a dream. Tasks and objectives and deadlines stack up,

Entering the "Devil's Chair" on Lone Cone.

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create a crushing weight that makes the end goal feel like a foggy distant shoreline in a sea of uncertainty. And we ask, will any of it be worth the grind? Will any of it be worth the countless days ending late into the night with the closing of the laptop minutes before passing out? Are the endless days of pushing our bodies to their limits worth it?

This is how I felt when emerging from winter last year. And now, as I recall my treatment for the mental and physical exhaustion I endured, I feel a warm breeze brush over me warming my skin. I smell a field of dandelions in full bloom, and I realize that the answer to my uneasy anticipation lies in the moments of epiphany captured in the midst of epic adventures.

You see, the winter of 2018-2019 was an absolutely historic event for the mountains of Colorado. Myself, Ricke Schuler, Isaiah Branch-Boyle and Michael “Ack” Ackerman had been completely immersed in a torrent of perpetual storms and prodigious avalanches.

Ack had been working all season as a mountain guide around Red Mountain Pass in the midst of Mother Nature’s fury and the rest of us had been relentlessly chasing snow around the state for my project “Journey Lines.” This is a project culminating in a large format story-based guidebook covering Colorado and all its amazing ranges. It has a focus on showing Coloradans how incredible our own backyard is and I hope it can build

The author and Michael Ackerman take in the last views as they pedal south over Groundhog Peak.

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HARD

Reset

The SAG vehicle isn't always luxury.

Maggie, the Rottweiler, leads up the shoulder of Lone Cone.

Ricke Shuler slicing up a steep line on Lone Cone.

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more advocates for public land and climate through appreciation.

For all of us, the intensity of the season had snowballed into a mind-numbing normality. We all needed to ease up, take a break and power down for a reset. So we loaded up my 1989 Land Cruiser with fat bikes, splitboards, skis, glamping gear and a Rottweiler and headed to the San Miguel Mountains and its farthest west massifs.

We were ready to say farewell to the intense ski season.

Our goal was to bike-split-ski-pack from near Groundhog Reservoir to the summit of Lone Cone, then to Middle Peak, and finish with Groundhog Peak. We were intent on shredding aesthetic lines off each high point.

A contemporary bunch of winter refugees looking for respite, we set off. And since we had my rig to accommodate our furry companion, why not load it up with beer and food to help us ease out of complacency? Our Journey Lines’ crew had developed such a high acceptance of objective hazard, but we knew that was a dangerous trend that needed to be reeled in. We fully realized it when Schuler quipped to Ackerman while booting up the crux of a steep line, “we must be scaring you.” Ack replied, frankly, “no I’m not scared, but you are scaring me.” It was clear we all needed to detox and decompress from the season spent tip-toeing around carnivorous snow slopes. We

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

needed to slow down, take in the greening grass and springtime pleasures, while allowing pedaling through broad meadows to be our muse.

We traveled at the whims of our wellconditioned bodies. Each day’s recipe for a wellconcocted cathartic experience started with a dawn awakening, followed by a slow breakfast.

Then we’d start off on foot, heading out from camp through musty undergrowth catching its first breaths of air in months. Day by day the seasonal blanket of snow was losing its grip.

Emerging from tree-line each day we’d enter a craggy alpine dreamscape. We would move up the technical ribbons of snow and ice, eventually reaching our summit, only to ride and ski back down them. These motions felt second nature, even monotone at times, due to how we spent our winter. But each summit was highlighted by the truly unique views offered in this remote part of southwest Colorado.

The meditation would commence, however, when we broke camp and began rolling to the next layover. Pedaling uphill on dirt roads through old-growth aspen groves and then embracing gravity downhill past boggy marshes was the extra spice of life we all needed. It took this magic ingredient for us all to come out of laxity and feel invigorated again. Every bit of the trip was pure and full of laughter. Creating our own breeze with our own two legs was the cure.

Stay the course.

As we drove away from this western pocket of the San Juan Mountains through ranch land, I watched the mountains grow more distant in the rear-view mirror. A slight rain started to clean my filthy windshield. With that drizzle a rainbow presented across the distance, sprouting from rolling hills lined with rickety fencing.

In that moment, I knew once again that I was exactly where I should be.

My path felt solid and I knew that all the sacrifices I was making and the commitment I was giving to living my dream would pay off. I take it all in and tell myself, stay the course.

JOSH JESPERSEN is a splitboard mountaineer and veteran based in Colorado focused on getting more people outside. He holds the record for climbing and riding all 54 of our states 14ers, accomplishing this feat in only 138 days. His project Journey Lines will debut in the fall/winter of 2020 as a coffee table ready adventure/backcountry story-form guidebook for Colorado.

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Apollo Temple and Venus Temple in a cloud filled canyon from Moran Point.

Grand Canyon Photography Off the Beaten Track The best opportunities to capture Grand Canyon

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Finding a way to the river from Ochoa Point, which is about 20 miles from the nearest trail.

More than six million people visit Grand Canyon National Park each year and the crowds can be unbelievable. And nearly all of those six million tourists hit the south rim, and photography are found away most of them don’t venture more than a few hundred yards from their cars or the major viewpoints and shuttle stops. from the crowds — and closer However, with a little imagination, you can have the Grand Canyon to yourself. Really! than you may realize If you’re familiar with outdoor photography, you know about the “golden hour” — the hour before sunrise and after sunset. Along with unusual weather (in Arizona that means “clouds”), the golden hour really increases your chance of getting photos that aren’t the same tired shots.

First, you have to get into the park. Wait three hours in the entrance line and you will miss the best light. Here’s the trick — arrive early. It’s best to stay in a hotel or campground inside the park so you are already inside, but you’re going to need advance reservations. Or, you can stay in a hotel in Tusayan, sto ry & p h oto g r a p h y just outside the south entrance of the park. And there is a Kaibab b y BRUC E G RUBBS National Forest campground, Ten-X, but you’ll need reservations for these, too. For campground reservations in both the national park and the national forest, go to www.recreation.gov. Finally, you can camp wherever you like on the national forest south of the park in “dispersed sites,” except along the highway. You can’t do this in Grand Canyon National Park.

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The Colorado River and Apollo Temple in the last rays of the sun.

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Grand Canyon P HOTOGRAPHY

Late afternoon light picks out intricate detail below Pinal Point.

So you’re staying just outside the park and want to shoot the morning golden light. First, plan your day with a site or app such as The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE); www.photoephemeris.com. Get the time and direction of sunrise. Then get into the park early; as much as two hours before sunrise, depending on where you’re going in the park. The good news is that there is no entrance line two hours before sunrise.

WHERE TO SHOOT MATHER POINT Yeah, right, the most popular viewpoint of all. A good 5.99 million of the 6 million visitors go here, but bear with me. Park your vehicle at the Canyon View Information Plaza about 45 minutes before sunrise and walk the quarter mile to the viewpoint. The trick to avoiding the crowd is to turn right and walk east along the Rim Trail until you can look back at Mather Point. The towering fin of limestone lights up with the coming sunrise and it’s a great opportunity for shots of the ant-like hordes enjoying the sunrise at the top of the drop.

This is a perfect example of getting away from the crowds by walking a short distance.

Winter detail in the Supai Formation from near Mohave Point.

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HERMIT ROAD This paved road closely follows the rim west of Grand Canyon Village for 7 miles to Hermits Rest and the Hermit Trailhead. From March 1 through Nov. 30, access is by free shuttle bus

only; private vehicles are banned. But it’s still possible to catch the sunrise by taking the first shuttle of the day, leaving from the Hermits Rest shuttle transfer point near the head of the Bright Angel Trail 1 hour before sunrise. You can catch the last bus back one hour after sunset.

The beauty of the shuttle system is you can ride to one of the viewpoint stops, then walk the Rim Trail east or west to get away from the crowds where you can get a unique perspective for your shots. You can even walk to the next stop and pick up the shuttle again. For sunrise, I recommend Mohave Point, and for sunset, Pima Point. As a side note, both are great options in the winter when you can reach them by car.

DESERT VIEW DRIVE This paved road runs east 25 miles from Grand Canyon Village to Desert View. There is no shuttle service and it’s open all year to private vehicles. It features Moran Point, one of the finest places on the south rim to photograph foreground formations. Sunrise is often spectacular over the Palisades of the Desert and is a better option than sunset to avoid the crowds.

And now the secret: unlike the Hermit Road, the Desert View drive does not closely follow the rim. There are many wide spots to park along the road that are clear of the pavement.

From your pullout you can walk north crosscountry less than a mile to the rim. If you have a trail GPS unit, save the location of your vehicle as a waypoint; otherwise, you may find

An experimental attempt to use in-camera HDR (High Dynamic Range) to bring out shadow detail in an otherwise dark canyon.

A stormy sunrise over Vishnu Temple, Freya Castle, and Cape Final.

yourself walking the road to find your vehicle.

There are few landmarks in the open forest of ponderosa pine and juniper. Papago Point is a little more than a half mile of cross-country walking but provides a lonely place to shoot sunrises. Pinal Point does the same for sunsets.

BELOW THE RIM Day hiking on the canyon trails doesn’t involve the hassle of a permit; even a short descent can open up new perspectives. Just make sure you carry plenty of water and snacks during the summer. The temperature rises as you descend. The classic dayhike is the descent to Cedar Ridge on the Kaibab Trail, which puts you about 1,000 feet below the rim on an open ridge. Here you’ll find great views and O’Neill Butte to provide foreground perspective.

A short descent of the upper switchbacks of the Grandview Trail gives you better foregrounds than the railed viewpoint. The Hermit Trail drops into Hermit Basin where a short walk toward Santa Maria Spring will reveal some great shots. Likewise, walking the Dripping Spring Trail from its junction with the Hermit Trail provides great perspectives at the head of Hermit Canyon.

IN THE BACKCOUNTRY Of course, nothing beats the crowds like a multiday backpack trip, especially off-trail.

That gets you into areas that often don’t see a single human in a year. But it’s not for everyone. Off-trail hiking in the Grand Canyon is some of the toughest hiking in the world.

Not only must you be fit and have some ontrail experience, you need to plan the journey around access to water sources. Your reward is that you can fill your camera with images of scenes that no one else has captured.

WEATHER The tourists complain and ask for entrance fee refunds when clouds fill the canyon, but the photographer delights. Weather here is rarely monolithic; instead, there are breaks in the clouds that create mysterious vistas across the depths of the canyon. And snow in the canyon really brings out the colors and depth.

DETAIL Don’t get fixated on your wide-angle lens.

Because the Grand Canyon is not a single great canyon but instead a labyrinth of hundreds of side canyons, ridges, cliff bands, temples, and buttes. There is endless detail to shoot. During the first or last rays of the sun, these details pop out and a single place along a trail or on the rim can give you a rich variety of shots.

Think inside the box, er, frame!

BRUCE GRUBBS is an author with a serious problem: he doesn't know what he wants to do when he grows up.

His heart focused outdoors, he has worked at wildland fire fighting, running a mountain shop, flying airplanes, shooting photos, and writing books. He is the author of numerous camping and hiking books, including “Grand Canyon Tips: The Local’s Guide to Avoiding the Crowds and Getting the Most Out of Your Visit.” For more on Bruce Grubbs, visit www.brucegrubbs.com.

Sometimes the action is all in the sky, dwarfing even the Grand Canyon.

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TechTrek Mobile navigation tools to plan your next adventure story by

HUNTER HARRELL T ERRANCE SIEMON

p h oto g r a p h y by

Traversing unknown terrain is easier with an aid, and navigation tools are necessary to explore wild places. Adventurers should always carry a compass and map; however, there are a growing number of technological tools that remove some of the guesswork from trip planning and wilderness navigation.

Downloading navigation apps to a smartphone can help users plot a course, track the route in real time and connect with other outdoor recreationists.

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GAIA GPS One of the most useful technological tools for outdoor adventures is GAIA GPS, an app and web-based navigation software that offers route planning, track recording and custom waypoint creation. The software lets users plan and research routes then sync the data to any personal device. Downloading and installing the app is free on both Apple and Android, but you must create an account to view maps. The free version is useful only with cell service, however. To access other features and additional maps, there are two subscription options to consider. The first is $19.99 for one year, and it includes the ability to download and print offline maps. The premium version is $39.99 for one year, and it comes with map layers, over 200 National Geographic Illustrated Trails, weather conditions, hunting units and other speciality maps for activities like backpacking, hunting, off-roading, mountain biking and backcountry skiing. The price for the subscriptions reflect the value of this tool. Best of all, the software is easy to use, and individual displays are customizable.

RAMBLR Ramblr lets you track your route, share the adventure and follow in the footsteps of your friends. The app is free and available for Apple and Android products. Like GAIA GPS, the app offers users additional access online. As long as users have a GPS signal, Ramblr can record the route and other statistics, such as speed, duration, distance and highest point (perfect for peak baggers) without cell service. Ramblr also allows map downloads for offline access.

Add photos, record audio files and videos while exploring, and tag them to specific points on the map. Upon returning to an area with data coverage, users can upload their experience to www.ramblr.com, and share it with friends and family through Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. Users can access an HTML link online to share photos and routes via blogs and emails as well.

SPYGLASS An advanced compass and augmented reality make Spyglass a unique navigation tool for desert and mountain adventures. The app is available for Apple and Android products, and costs between $3 and $6. Spyglass does not function like the other navigation apps.

There are no maps, but it has a long list of features to help users navigate the wilderness, including a speedometer, altimeter and rangefinder, which use the phone camera and sensors to calibrate your location. Users can take photos and save waypoints during an adventure, and view GPS coordinates in real time. The software also enables navigation by the sun, mood and stars, making it a useful tool for nighttime adventures and trips on the water. The display is completely customizable; however, new users can feel overwhelmed. The app developers recorded helpful videos from basic tutorials to detailed instructions and navigation tips. For a better idea of how the app functions, view the videos online at www. happymagenta.com/spyglass.

VIEWRANGER The Viewranger mobile application is easy to use and comes with an extensive list of features that help users navigate, record data and share outdoor excursions. The app is designed to work in areas without cell service, and allows users to view maps and trail guides offline. It tracks information like time, distance, elevation and speed, and clearly marks the user’s route.

Viewranger also has an estimated time of arrival and an ability to create a Trip Journal. The app is available for free download on Apple and Android devices. Access additional features with a premium subscription for just $4.99 per year, or pay $19.99 per year for premium plus maps, which includes the purchase of worldclass outdoor maps covering all 50 states. One of those features included in the premium subscription is an augmented reality tool similar to Spyglass that identifies peaks and points of interest along the way. Premium users can also access a feature called BuddyBeacon to track friends in real time using Viewranger, making it a useful tool for group adventures.

ALLTRAILS One of the most popular navigation apps, AllTrails provides details, maps and reviews of thousands of trails. There are over 10 million users across the globe, and their detailed experiences can provide helpful information for backpackers, bikers and hikers on the trail.

The app is available to download for free on Apple and Android products. With the free version, users can search for trails, view maps online and offline and record data from trips such as distance, elevation and moving time.

These features make the app a good option for backcountry navigation, where cell service is limited. AllTrails also offers customers an option to upgrade to AllTrails Pro for $29.99 for one year, or $59.99 for a three-year plan. With this upgrade, users can download and print customized maps, track weather conditions and add map layers.

Though each app is highly-recommended, and available on Apple and Android devices, it is important to remember you should never rely on technology alone. Personal devices are susceptible to damage or malfunctions, and cold conditions can drain battery life.

Always carry a compass and printed map, and a solar charger for your mobile device. Despite drawbacks of technology, these apps are a great guide for every journey.

HUNTER HARRELL is a writer and editor based in Durango, Colorado. She loves rainy days, spring cleaning and music that makes you move.

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Christened

Black

BY THE

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park should be on every rock climber’s bucket list — b y MORGAN TILTON even rookies

Rolling high desert pinyon pine and juniper trees are incandescent against the rising 6:50 a.m. sun. To beat the afternoon heat, we’re on our approach — a 5-minute hike on an unmarked spur trail — south of the North Rim Ranger Station in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It’s hard to believe that one of the country’s deepest gorges exists here amid farmland — and suddenly, the earth gives way.

I gape at the ethereal 1,800-foot deep chasm, which stretches 1,100 feet across to the south rim. Pink-toned pegmatite dikes create lightning-bolts across the black and gold-hued walls. Gunnison River, which roars below, incised this 2 billion-year-old Precambrian rock.

I shudder at the canyon’s sheer size. “Whoa,” I said to my friend and climbing partner, Lance Sullins, owner of Peak Mountain Guides, based in Ridgway, Colorado.

The Black, as it's known among climbers, has an intimidating reputation for choss-tossed, committing, challenging multithousand-foot walls. Fourteen miles of rim lies within park boundaries including Warner Point, which drops 2,722 feet: more than double the height of the Empire State Building. We start our 1,000-foot Cruise Gully descent via scrambles, steep and exposed singletrack, and two zesty rappels.

“Eldorado Canyon’s rock could probably fit into Cruise Gully, which is less than 10% of the entire Black Canyon,” Sullins said.

Popular and well-trafficked, Eldorado Canyon State Park is a climbing mecca and traditional hub nine miles south of Boulder, Colorado. More than 1,200 routes exist there while the Black has closer to 150, which are spread across a vast area with fewer crowds.

Once down, we skirt by foot to the base of Checkerboard Wall for our objective, Maiden Voyage (5.9): the Black’s most climbed, clean crack system, according to Vic Zeilman’s 2016 guidebook, “The Black: A Comprehensive Climbing Guide to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park." We plan to skip the summit block — if all goes to plan — and traverse 300 feet to King Me (5.10), for a seven-pitch, 800-foot day: my longest line, yet.

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The author gets a glimpse of Mirror Wall, the opposing formation on the Black's south rim, during their initial descent down Cruise Gully. photo by Morgan Tilton

Tilton following Sullins up King Me's glorious corner crack on the sixth pitch of the day. photo by Lance Sullins

Eldorado Canyon’s rock could probably fit into Cruise Gully, which is less than 10% of the entire Black Canyon

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Christened

Black

BY THE

Tilton is elated to top-out for her debut climb at the Black, just before the sun peaks above the walls. photo by Morgan Tilton

Tilton stemming out and jamming hands on pitch two of Maiden Voyage. photo by Lance Sullins

I first rock climbed at age 6 with Telluride Academy then dabbled in the sport including trips to Shelf Road, Moab and Thailand. During the climbing-gym boom, I lived in Denver and consistently roped-up indoors. Then last winter, Sullins taught me how to scale ice, which gave me an unexpected confidence boost. The sport’s formulaic technique, gear reliance and time-sensitivity forced me to trust the system. After my first-ever multipitch ascents, on frozen falls, Sullins suggested I venture to the Black — to which, I was surprised. I had imagined the Black as rugged and sketchy at best: not a destination I would be capable of scaling in the near future, if ever.

My inaugural impression of the Black’s elusiveness hails from the 2006 Sender Films’, “First Ascent,” featuring first ascensionist Jared Ogden, a 30-year San Juan local. According to the film, this canyon is one of the last great adventure climbing spots in North America.

Ogden, 48, still climbs these colossal faces.

“I encourage everyone, especially gym climbers, to have this adventurous experience placing gear in the Black. It's breathtaking,” Ogden said.

Beyond grades, the canyon embodies a pure wildness, which Ogden understands well. As a pioneer, he first ventured to the canyon in 1992, when it was still a national monument.

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a notebook and say, ‘Take a picture, and good luck.’ Climbing there was vague, mysterious and word-of-mouth with no guide book…it really hasn’t changed much,” Ogden said.

Beyond the tricky route-finding, bushwhacking and lack of signage, the greatest limiting factor is that the majority climbs are rated at 5.11 and higher. In contrast, two-thirds of Eldorado’s routes are 5.10+ or lower.

“Once you step up to 5.11 and 5.12 [grades] in the Black, you get into really good rock, but you have to be able to climb hard. That limits what a lot of people are willing to do to experience the best rock in the canyon,” said Ogden, whose majority first ascents are on 5.12 - 5.13 routes, and at least 10 are on the canyon’s best quality walls, he recalls.

However, a handful of the most classic, gorgeous routes in the Black are an easier grade and more approachable for a novice, such as myself, which I’m excited to learn after years of believing the barrier to entry was too high for me to ever explore here. It helped, too, that I had a climbing partner and mentor with the same goals who was familiar with the route and able to lead the way. To build my skills and confidence, Sullins and I climbed multi-pitch routes in Unaweep Canyon, in the spring. Over the summer, I got stronger for autumn, the Black’s other coolseason window. The formula worked.

My hands and feet criss-cross each other in a long, continuous corner crack on King

Studying pages of Vic Zeilman’s 2016 guidebook, “The Black: A Comprehensive Climbing Guide to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.” photo by Morgan Tilton

Me’s second pitch, near the day’s top-out. I feel surprisingly good, as I stem to clean the topmost gear—then realize, the subsequent move is a big airy gap left to a ledge with no immediate handholds and a side-step to reach Sullins. My heart spikes. A whipper here would be huge, which I feel nauseous thinking about. I take a deep, calming breath and remember everything I’ve done to get here. The nourishing sound of trees rustling in the breeze and chirping birds, as I stood on belay below, replay in my mind. I calm my nerves and stick the move.

MORGAN TILTON is an award-winning travel and adventure writer for close to 60 publications. She lives in the Elk Mountains, where she scrambles and ropes-up for rock ascents, ties into trail running shoes, clicks into skis or bike, and clips into a snowboard or splitboard.

When the snow melts, her next goal is to learn how to lead climb.

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SILVERTON OR BUST The Hermosa Valley stretch provides an easy, flat warmup for cyclists before they start the climb to Coal Bank and Molas Pass. photo by Scott DW Smith

The Iron Horse Bicycle Classic Citizen Tour You don’t have to be a pro to ride like the pros by

T I O N A EVE RSOLE

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T

The Iron Horse Bicycle Classic (IHBC) is the second oldest consecutively run road bike race in the country (the first is the Tour of Somerville in New Jersey, which first began in 1940). Needless to say, this annual Durango-based bike festival held every Memorial Day weekend is special for both racers and spectators alike.

While multiple biking events take place throughout the weekend, the crown jewel of them all is the road ride from Durango to Silverton. The McDonald’s Citizen Tour provides a less competitive ride for those whose goals range from beating the Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad train to simply finishing.

For 50 miles, cyclists experience a

stunning section of the San Juan Scenic Byway over two mountain passes — Coal Bank and Molas, both over 10,000 feet in elevation.

The best part? The road past Purgatory Resort is closed to all motor vehicles, an element uncommon for most amateur road races.

“Especially coming down some of those passes, it’s nice to know that you’re not going to come around a corner and have a car coming up the other direction at you,” said Todd Wells, co-director of the Iron Horse Bicycle Classic.

Wells is also a retired professional cyclist who has raced several times in both the road and mountain bike

A cyclist rides alongside the Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge train on his way to Silverton.

Beating the train is a common goal of many riders in the Citizen Tour. photo by Scott DW Smith

disciplines of the Iron Horse Bicycle Classic.

Whether you’re a first-timer planning to tackle the Citizen Tour, a seasoned veteran with a few rides under your belt or you simply want to cheer on the riders, here are a few tips to help you enjoy this special event to the fullest.

TRAINING Spring in southwest Colorado is highly unpredictable, which can make training on the road difficult. Take your training indoors with a spin class. Places such as the Durango Sports Club and Durango Community Recreation Center offer Iron Horse-specific classes to help you better prepare for the ride. These classes are also a great way to meet other cyclists in the community.

As the Iron Horse nears, take a little time getting to know your road bike. You’ll be spending quite a bit of

Cyclists experience a stunning section of the San Juan Scenic Byway over two mountain passes

time on it come Memorial Day weekend. A tune prior to the big day also isn’t a bad idea.

FIRST TIMER TIPS If you live close to Durango, make time for a couple of training rides up the passes to get acquainted with the elevation gain so that you’re not surprised come race day.

“It helps set your mind at ease and gives you a little bit of confidence going in,” Wells said.

For those not in the area, Wells suggests adding in a few rides that involve road climbs with a decent elevation gain into your training.

If you’re not feeling up to the 50-mile ride to Silverton, check out the Quarter Horse to Purgatory Resort. This ride cuts the distance in half and finishes just before the climb up the two mountain passes.

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SILVERTON OR BUST

A group of cyclists heads down Coal Bank Pass. photo by Terrance Siemon

BEATING THE TRAIN One of the biggest goals for experienced riders of the Citizen Tour is to beat the train, a feat that dates back to the origins of the Iron Horse Bicycle Classic.

In 1971, brothers Jim and Tom Mayer challenged one another to a race — steam engine versus bicycle. Jim was a brakeman on the train, and Tom was a cycling enthusiast. The reward? A single candy bar. In the end, Tom won the coveted candy bar (with present-day IHBC omnium winners receiving a chocolate trophy).

Today, riders must best 3 hours and 45 minutes if they want to beat the train to Silverton. Make sure to have a friend or family member waiting at the finish line with your favorite candy bar to celebrate this accomplishment.

FOR THE SPECTATORS Road closures are in effect from Durango to Silverton for the race. If you or your cheering committee wants to be at the finish line in Silverton, it is important to get past Purgatory Resort by 8:30 a.m. The road will not open again until 1:30 p.m.

Not sure how to pass the time while waiting in Silverton? There’s plenty to do in and around the tiny mountain town. Check out the shops in downtown Silverton, or peruse the many vendors set up at the finish line. Live music

A well-deserved medal at the finish line of the Citizen Tour in Silverton. photo by Tiona Eversole

and a beer garden will also help keep you entertained while waiting for the finishers to cross the finish line.

There are also plenty of outdoor activities to help you get outside and enjoy the fresh mountain air. Go for a hike or demo an e-bike on the many trails that surround Silverton, or check out the Animas River that flows alongside town.

Need more ideas? Stop by the Silverton Visitors Center located at 414 Greene Street for additional information on the area.

TIONA EVERSOLE is an outdoor enthusiast based in Durango, Colorado. Look for her on the slopes or exploring the local trails with her pup, Sgt. Pepper.

NE W T H I S Y EA R

Iron Horse Start Starting at the Durango Transit Center, all race categories for the road ride will all start at the same time instead of separating categories three minutes apart.

“Groups will still be staged based on the race category,” Wells said. “And they’ll still be scored that way, but the whole group will roll out at once; and then the Citizen Tour will also tag onto the back of the race group as well.

What that allows us to do is to have a shorter impact on the time that town is shut down and it allows us to close the road more thoroughly for that group to roll out.”

E-Bike Tour Durango to Silverton Last year, e-bikers could ride the Quarter Horse to Purgatory. This year, they will have the opportunity to go all the way to Silverton. E-bikers will start at 7:30 a.m., ahead of the rest of the cyclists.

Fat Bike Criterium Pro racers will have to complete one more race in their quest for the King/ Queen of the Mountain Omnium title: The Fat Tire Crit. This race will be held Friday evening during packet pickup, with the course winding through and around Buckley Park as riders attempt to complete as many laps possible in 20 minutes.

Gravel Road Ride Sunday’s LPEA La Strada La Plata Gravel Ride just got longer. This year, riders can opt to complete a 93-mile gravel road ride starting at Steamworks Brewing Company and heading out on the stunning backroads toward Bayfield. Other distances include the 55-mile and 80-mile.

Author Tiona Eversole pushes to the summit of Molas Pass — elevation 10,912 feet — before heading downhill into Silverton and toward the finish line. photo by Barrack Naggan (www.naggan.com) 28 |

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The

HIGHS & LOWS of Canoeing Labyrinth Canyon Fluctuating water levels of the Green River are key to what you can see and do — and tolerate — in Labyrinth Canyon sto ry & p h oto g r a p h y by

A N DRE W GULLIFORD

A Labyrinth Canyon in high water allows paddlers to glide deeper into the canyon branches like this group leaving the entrance to Horseshoe Canyon.

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The most sensible travelers canoe the Green River in the The National Park Service protested, but fall when the mosquitoes stopping the program took a while. are gone and the air is cool.

The first stretch of canoeable water But that’s exactly why I passes terrain that easily earns the canoe it in late spring and derogatory terms of barren desert, worthless August—for the bug hatch wasteland, sheep-scarred landscape or, that bursts during the high as Edward Abbey would say, “cow-burnt.” water of spring runoff and Lunch can be a hot layover among dead the insufferable full-on heat or dying cottonwoods. By afternoon the during the low water country gets more interesting among mesas and buttes, where evening campsites and of late summer. unimpeded sunsets brighten the trip. As After all, if the intrepid explorer John beers are open, tents go up and dinner gets Wesley Powell could run the Green in started, the rhythms of the river set in and summer in 1869 and 1871 with one arm and river time flows into twilight. no cold beer, then surely the rest of us can The morning of the second day, paddlers endure a few days of harsh elements. But pass The Anvil or Dellenbaugh Butte why would we want to? named after 17-year-old artist Frederick Let me explain. Simply, S. Dellenbaugh, who the hiking and viewing accompanied Powell on opportunities differ the 1871 expedition and depending on the water level.

The Green wrote about it in his classic During high water, paddlers account, A Canyon Voyage: can access the upper reaches River is The Narrative of the Second of canyons by simply padding Powell Expedition. By noon, there – into mosquitoes. the longest Ruby Ranch appears on river During low water, the left. The canyons begin to stretch of opportunities are closer to deepen and the cliff walls the main stem of the Green – a delightful pinkish flatwater in shine but in high heat. hue. Great blue herons glide The Green River is the through the sky. Ruby Ranch the central longest stretch of flatwater is the last private property in the central Rockies. It and road access to the river Rockies. runs from Green River, Utah, for miles. Past the thumping, toward the confluence of pulsating sound of irrigation the Colorado River and the pumps, the San Rafael River entrance to Canyonlands joins in on river right and we begin to look National Park. Along its scenic course, it for another camp. provides plenty of outdoor excitement, After breakfast, we launch into a stretch adventurous hikes, and the best wilderness where three canyons come together at Trinattributes of silence, solitude, and darkness.

Alcove Bend. It’s worth stopping to climb With either high or low water, we put in up and see the Fremont-era petroglyphs at Crystal Geyser after a night in Moab and etched on the sandstone cliffs 800 years a shuttle past the abandoned missile launch ago. Here is where the river levels begin to sites south of Green River. During the Cold make a difference. At high water, paddlers War, technicians pointed Athena missiles can gently glide deeper up the canyons and to the south from these sites, unwittingly camp off the Green’s main stem. Hiking to putting Canyonlands hikers in their path. explore the canyons is a special treat thanks The fact that components from a launched to access afforded by the high water. missile could separate, fall and flatten hikers At low water, sandy beaches are exposed for wide, dry, level camps, but hiking access did not occur to the generals in charge.

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The

HIGHS LOWS& of Canoeing Labyrinth Canyon

Deep in Labyrinth Canyon Navajo and Wingate sandstone walls rise hundreds of feet about the river making for spectacular paddling.

Vintage trucks abandoned during the uranium boom can be found at the Hey Joe Uranium Mine above a good place to camp.

French-American fur trader Denis Julien left two inscriptions in Labyrinth Canyon including this May 1836 inscription in Hell Roaring Canyon where he etched an image of his pirogue and the sail he used to travel upstream with the afternoon winds.

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diminishes. I’ve done it both ways and either way appreciated the opportunities to see something new. As the canyons deepen, the Kayenta formation becomes clear and then Wingate sandstone.

About the time the afternoon heat tips toward hot, the rocks of the River Register appear, showing decades of inscriptions including some interesting river glyphs of a skyscraper, or perhaps a Mormon temple, a bull’s head, and a large baby-like figure working on his backstroke, swimming sideways on a red sandstone cliff.

On one high-water trip, we camped in Hey Joe Canyon and hiked to the Hey Joe uranium mine. I’ll never forget the vintage 1950s bulldozer, blade down, levers ready, just waiting for fresh diesel fuel and an operator to turn the key and get the tracks in motion.

Labyrinth Canyon and its branch canyons are rife with prehistoric sites from 800 to 1,000 years old. Strewn among them are uranium mining sites from the 1950s when Moab proudly proclaimed itself the “uranium mining capital of the world.”

In one of the last great mineral rushes in the American West, thousands of Americans rushed the Colorado Plateau in Army surplus jeeps, Geiger counters clicking. The Cold War had begun. The Russians and other communist nations were our enemies and nuclear weapons were paramount to keep the peace.

Some of the best-preserved remnants of the uranium frenzy are found in Labyrinth Canyon. Scattered shacks, drill holes, twotrack roads up sheer cliffs, and unplugged

Of the numerous rock art petroglyph sites along the Green River, some of the oldest and most mysterious are Barrier Canyon coffin-like figures without arms and legs that may be up to 9,000 years old.

mine adits, or entryways. As historic sites, they are protected by law on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands. But when the law isn’t around, the mosquitos are, helping to keep visits short.

Breezes on the Green River keep the bugs away, but just try to muscle through the thick belts of tamarisk and Russian olive along the river’s edge to get to the old mining sites located several hundred feet above in the Chinle formation. Squadrons of skeeters await, ready to pounce on any exposed flesh. At low water, sandbars in the middle of the river are ideal spots to serve lunch away from mosquitoes – mostly.

Below Hey Joe are two important historic inscriptions from decidedly different eras of Green River history. It took a few years to find the French-American fur trapper Denis Julien’s “16 mai 1836” inscription, but persistence pays. I found it one afternoon by paddling upstream from camp to a point I could tie off and search. I’ve tracked Julien up and down the Green and found other inscriptions of his in Whirlpool Canyon in Dinosaur National Monument and in Hell Roaring Canyon.

STEAMBOATS If a beaver fur trapper making his way upstream in his French pirogue in the 1830s has my attention, I’m even more fascinated by steamboats that plied the Green at the turn of the 20th century. Julien’s inscriptions can be found most easily at high water levels. At low water, the 1909 inscription with names of the steamboat crew of the

Canoeing Labyrinth Canyon makes for hours of contemplative paddling with no rapids and few strainers to worry about.

Marguerite can be more easily accessed, and seen etched in stone.

Before asphalt and paved roads, cargo arrived to Moab by steamboat. Rather than teams of horses pulling wagons pulling through miles of sagebrush, flat-bottomed, shallow-draft steamboats received wholesale goods off the railroad at Green River, then floated the Green through Labyrinth Canyon to the confluence with the Colorado River where they steamed upstream to Moab. Steamboats in desert canyons seems beyond improbable, but the inscriptions with dates don’t lie. Another proof of the steamboat river trade can be found in black painted lettering on a cliff face etched with these distinctive words: “Howland Bros. Divided skirts and pantywear.”

A few river miles further and paddlers enter Bowknot Bend. Here the river makes a long sinuous arc before winding back almost where it started. “We sweep another great bend of the left, nine miles, and come back to within 600 yards of the beginning of the bend. The men call it a ‘bowknot’ of river; so we name it Bowknot Bend,” Powell wrote on July 15, 1891.

In high water it is possible to paddle up Horseshoe Canyon and camp. Fremont rock art panels can be found, but also stacked stone defensive sites. I have yet to hike the canyon all the way to the Great Gallery, a rock art site of an even older culture: the Barrier Canyon. These hunter-gatherers frequented these canyons perhaps as far back as 9,000 years ago. So much to

discover. So many hikes to take.

But it was our last night in Labyrinth. That morning, the pleasure of an early launch made use of shade and shadow in paddling beneath hundreds of feet of sandstone. We enjoyed a cool breeze before the sun rose higher. And higher.

After a long, blistering episode of paddling in 100-degree temperatures, we sat comatose under a shade shelter secured with canoe paddles and water jugs. I told a few stories. Beers came out. In time – a long time – the hot merciless sun dipped below canyon walls.

At last the sun was down, twilight over.

Time to turn into our tent. No need for a rain fly. My wife is already on the pillow,

A bulldozer left over from the 1950s uranium boom rusts in peace at the Hey Joe Uranium Mine site.

Days of canyon canoeing had brought us to this beach and above us a river of stars. lying naked atop a sheet – anything to stay cool. The stars and planets shone above, sparkling, moving with the Milky Way and a thousand galaxies. No moonlight, just tall black sandstone canyons and the soft edge of infinity.

I knelt in the sand, looking up. A rhythm of water lapped our canoes. The hours of heat no longer mattered. Nothing mattered.

Days of canyon canoeing had brought us to this beach and above us a river of stars.

ANDREW GULLIFORD is an award-winning editor and author and professor of history and environmental studies at Fort Lewis College in Durango.

Historic inscriptions at River Register Rock on the lower Green River includes this baby-like figure practicing backstrokes on sandstone. It appeared prior to 1940 and is deeply chiseled into the rock.

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Open Sky Wilderness Therapy Open Sky assists teens and young adults struggling with difficult challenges and life circumstances.

Open Sky engages the transformational power of nature to strengthen relationships, foster growth, cultivate awareness, and develop overall health and wellness. Nestled in the mountains of southwest Colorado and the canyon country of southeast Utah, Open Sky’s approach transcends traditional wilderness therapy by emphasizing treatment for the whole family.

We sat down with Open Sky Field Guide Recruiter, Alex Bond, to find out more about working at Open Sky as a Field Guide:

What drew you to wilderness therapy?

The decision to come to Open Sky was easy. My family grew up in Colorado and so I was extremely drawn to the beauty of the Durango area. I had traveled quite a bit prior to Open Sky, but there was always something about the four corners landscape that drew me back. While I came here for the natural world, the reason I’ve stayed is the amazing community and culture at Open Sky.

That’s easy, the students. Our students are at an incredibly challenging place in their lives when they come to Open Sky. Many have never spent time in the wilderness and then suddenly, they’re living out there full-time. After a few weeks there’s a shift that occurs, in that they find a sense of courage in doing something they’ve never known before. It’s amazing to see.

What does the application and training process look like for new Field Guides?

The process begins with an hour-long interview.

We have five extensive training orientations throughout the year, each just under two weeks long, which provides a more hands-on, in-the-field window for the candidate and our team to decide if field guiding at Open Sky is a good fit.

Before coming to Open Sky, I was a teacher.

Although I enjoyed teaching, I was longing for more of the human connection side of the job. During my Field Guide training five years ago, it became clear to me that human connection was at the forefront of everything at Open Sky. I immediately knew this was where I belonged. I was also excited for the outdoors to become my classroom!

Why did you choose to come to Open Sky?

What motivates you to go to work every day?

What qualities do you look for in an Field Guide?

We look for people who can take care of themselves in the woods (a toughness), along with the characteristics of compassion, tenderness, and empathy. We look for guides who have a variety of skills and experiences, a passion for teaching and being positive role-models for our students. Successful guides are able to persevere through adversity.

What can a Field Guide hope to come out of this experience with?

One of the most rewarding things a Field Guide can expect is an incredible community that is honest and transparent with one another, offering coaching and mentorship each day. Not only does nature hold up a mirror reminding us of our strengths and challenges, our fellow Field Guides offer constructive and compassionate feedback. Having a job that allows you to figure out who you are and what you have to offer the world is such a gift.

READY FOR YOUR NEXT

adventure ?

OPEN SKY WILDERNESS THERAPY IS HIRING! OPEN POSITIONS | • Field Guides • Clinical Therapists • Family Therapists • Transporters • Field Medics

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

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PE N I T E N T E CA N YO N Corey Wright silhouetted on a climb in Penitente Canyon.

When shooting rock climbing, it is generally better to position yourself above the climber. It puts perspective on where he is and how he got there, while also showing what the climber is going through in the moment. In this case showing a wider angle of the scene helped the composition and put the climber to scale.

Nikon D800 focal length 24mm iso 320 exposure 1/1600 aperture f/2.8 camera

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

BEHIND THE LENS

camera

Nikon D800

focal length

24mm

TAOS TEE P EE While driving the highway into Taos I noticed these teepees in an empty field. Later that night, I returned to the location with a photographer friend and discovered that the teepees were on private land. The woman who owned the property allowed us to shoot the location. She asked that in return we would share the photographs with her.

We first took some test photos, found our compositions and began setting up. Our focus was on having the teepees pop against the dark, starry sky, so my friend placed his headlamp inside the covered teepee. With a 25- to 30-second exposure, the headlamp was all we needed to fully illuminate the inside and capture the shot.

iso

1000

exposure

25 sec.

by

aperture

f/2.2

TERRANCE SIEMON

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S IE RRA D E S IGNS

GEAR BIN

Taquito Mummy Bag

ZE AL OPTI C S Rampart and Sierra Sunglasses Ever consider how many sunglasses are manufactured and sold every year? From Florida to the Far East, gas stations to Gucci shops, sunglasses are everywhere.

And all end up in landfills (or at the base of a cliff or bottom of a body of water.)

That’s a lot of end-life plastic with no recyclable or biodegradable story in sight.

This not-insignificant carbon-fiber footprint is something that Zeal Optics, a company based in Boulder, Colorado, takes seriously.

The Rampart and Sierra sunglasses are made of Z-Resin, a material derived from the castor plant. It’s the same shrub that gives the world the eponymous beans and oil. In addition to eliminating the plastic used to build the frames, the manufacturing process results in less CO2 gas produced.

The sustainability story doesn’t stop there.

Both the Rampart and Sierra feature the brand’s Ellume lenses that are also made from the castor plant.

The polymer results in excellent optics— the lenses punch up depth and detail, and protect from UVA and HEV (blue) rays. Credit goes to Zeal for changing the product-cycle game without compromising durability or clarity. Plus, the styling is classic. They are the shades that you’ll grab for biking, climbing, boating or driving. We can’t guarantee that your significant other won’t steal them, or that you won’t drop them while climbing or paddle boarding.

But we suspect you’ll love them so much you’ll invest in a keeper strap. www.zealoptics.com

16900

$

GUE RRILLA GRAVITY Smash Mountain Bike Mountain biking used to be an elitist sport. A new bike helps to level the playing field. The Smash is designed to be userfriendly, meaning it has better geometry, more power transfer from the pedals to the wheels, and an incredibly comfortable suspension. This means you can tackle a wider variety of terrain with a single bike— definitely a plus for people who don’t want a half-dozen specialty rides cluttering their garage.

The Smash (named in honor of British punk icon Joe Strummer) is a 29er built

by Guerrilla Gravity, based in Denver, that is designed for daily riding. It’s a bike for people who want a well-built bike that is ready to face anything the world brings on—big mountain downhills, single track, rock gardens, commuting and everything in between. It’s durable, relatively light and highly adjustable. The headset has 10 millimeters of play so you can dial in the fit. Plus, the suspension is instantly tunable (there’s a Crush and Plush mode; the names speak for themselves) to adapt to your unique style and the type of terrain you’ll be covering.

The Smash is the brainchild of a designer with an aeronautics and car racing pedigree. He helped Guerrilla Gravity develop a stamped carbon-fiber process that’s done in-house. The automated process dramatically reduces the time needed for carbon fusing. The result is less labor and transportation costs and an unusually high heat tolerance that allows the frame to be powder-coated, rather than painted. The frame is 100% U.S.made, and, according to Guerrilla Gravity, three times more impact resistant than its traditional carbon-fiber cousins. www.ridegg.com (WITH ROCKSHOX YARI, SRAM NX AND DT SWISS M1900 PART PACKAGE)

3,69500

$ 38 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

The mummy bag is snug and form-fitting to reduce air around the body to help maintain heat. For believers of the mummy design, Sierra Designs has good news. The brand’s Spring 2020 offerings include the Taquito bag, an introductory down mummy bag in three temperature ratings that’s comfortable, lightweight and flush with features and cool colors.

For starters, each bag is stuffed with 550 Fill Power DriDown™, a treated down that stays dry longer, lofts better and dries better than untreated down, which means you stay warmer in falling temperatures.

And the hydrophobic finish enhances the durability of the down, which increases the longevity of the bag. Our tester purred with the Draft Dodger collar nestled across his neck to seal in heat and keep out drafts.

Also, the bag’s opening can be cinched to preference, even entirely closed for that mummy who prefers to be entombed.

Running midway down the left side of the bag is a single-sided zipper with anti-snag tracks, providing for easy in and out. The 5-inch baffles keep the down from shifting around and clumping, preventing cold spots. For backpacking, the bag compresses down to the size of a basketball.

Our slim, 6-foot-tall tester found the 0°F bag roomier than expected. He was able to splay out his elbows comfortably and squirm as needed, although he did unzip to cool down. The 20°F and 35°F bags are the better options from spring into fall, except for sleepers who are never too warm in which case the 0°F bag is a year-round choice.

The Taquito gets solid marks for a lightweight sleeping bag with DriDown at a price under $400. www.sierradesigns.com PRICE RANGE

21995 $ 31995 $

TO

TIM BER RID GE M E TOL I U S M OUN TA I N PROD U C TS Monster Rope 9.8 mm 70m A rope is a climber’s most valuable insurance policy. It is your best friend when you’re sketching out on a hard send, forearms flaming, fingers failing. But not all ropes are equal. We like the Metolius Monster for its versatility. After more than 50 days of use, the sheath looked like new.

Our testers used it with new (and older) Gri Gris, ATC’s, and even an antique Figure-8 for grins. Usually the question with a rope is durability versus weight. The 9.8 mm diameter means that it is rugged enough for everyday use, but light enough for redpoint burns, sketchy on-site tries, and fast-and light alpine missions.

While 50-meter ropes used to be standard, the introduction of 60 meter cords meant higher anchors. With the Monster 70m, you can be comfortable on routes set at 30 or 35 meters. But, never take the estimated rappel distance for granted: always knot the end of your rope!

The hand of the Monster is smooth, with no sheath slippage. At 65 grams per meter, the rope is lighter than many thicker cords on the market. Plus the rope is certified for 9 UIAA falls. The rope’s rated for 9 UIAA falls—many more than any climber would want to take in a single season. We suggest the “dry” version which adds not only water resistance, but also seems to stay cleaner than regular ropes. www.metoliusclimbing.com

26900

$

6-person Glamping Teepee Call it a base camp, hunting camp or glamping centerpiece, a spacious teepee to escape the weather, gather in, and rest for the night is a luxury few of us can afford or even appreciate as a connection to the outdoors … until now. The Timber Ridge sixperson Glamping Teepee steps up as central to a weekend getaway or front-country camping experience, and even as the hub on a rafting trip.

Before we took the teepee for a test, we set it up in a backyard and set it up in 12 minutes! Granted, driving 16 stakes into a lawn is easier than rocky earth. Our second set-up took 20 minutes at a not terribly rocky camp.

The teepee is an octogonal shape with enough room (13.5’ x 13.5’) for occupants to move freely about. A peaked polesupported entryway provides easy access.

The height at the center pole is a tad higher than 8 feet (98”), allowing standingroom headspace.

The central pole has a telescoping function for proper tension along the roof seams. A peaked, quick-to-install pole system supports the entryway. Four zippered mesh-windows provide ventilation at the sleeping level, and two zippered mesh-windows provide overall ventilation.

The teepee’s fabric is 100% ripstop canvas with a layer of polyurethane for a 2,000 millimeter hydrostatic waterproof rating, which means the canvas can withstand 2,000 millimeters of water over a day before water begins to leak through. The floor is made of polyethylene. www.timberridge.com TIMBER RIDGE TEEPEE

49900

$

S UNLO OPS Even in the spring thaw, cold fingers can feel like frozen rocks. What if you could hold the warmth of the sun in your hands during chilly runs and morning bicycle commutes? That’s the bright idea behind SunLoops heater holders, made in Durango, Colorado, by Sandy Seibert and Jill Wright.

SunLoops are thin, pocketed bands that come in three sizes to fit securely around the knuckles of the hand. The pocket is designed to hold any air activated heating element around the hand, without restricting the movement of the fingers.

SunLoops can be worn with the heating element in the palm or on the back of the hand. The bands are also small enough to slide under your favorite pair of gloves for extra warmth during skiing adventures.

Each package comes with a complimentary set of disposable HotHands.

The nylon spandex band is durable enough to stretch and retain its shape, yet breathable enough to allow HotHands to stay activated.

Though SunLoops were developed as a solution to a rare disorder in the blood vessels called Raynaud’s Syndrome, our tester was attracted to the mobility they offer outdoor recreationists. The tester hiked three miles in a winter storm, and removed Christmas lights after the holiday season using SunLoops. They were able to pull out their phone on the hike to snap a few photos, and keep cords from becoming tangled easily. The ability to maneuver while avoiding frozen fingers added a wow factor to a simple design.

The tester also tried their own reusable hand warmers in the SunLoops for good measure. Though the reusable hand warmers did not provide as much heat as the HotHands (we knew that before we tried them), the hand warmers fit securely in the pocketed section and still eliminated the need for gloves entirely.

To add some comfort to cold fingers, we recommend the warmth of SunLoops. www.sunloops.com SMALL, MEDIUM, LARGE

2195

$

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SIPS 'N' SUDS

Many of the breweries such as Historic Brewing Company offer a wide selection of both year-round and seasonal beers.

Flagstaff ALE TRAIL

T

The Flagstaff Ale Trail is part brewery tour and part drinking game with all of the best craft beer that Flagstaff has to offer. The rules are simple: Fill up a brewery passport and receive a souvenir pint glass. This tour is done at your own pace as you make your way to nine different locations throughout the town.

Don’t worry about having to drink a beer at each location.

No purchase is necessary to receive a sticker on your passport, although it might be hard to pass up a beer when each place offers their own unique selection and inviting atmosphere.

So grab a passport from the Flagstaff Convention and Visitors Bureau (or print one out ahead of time at www.craftbeerflg.com), and let’s go!

sto ry by

TI O N A EVERS OLE T ERRANCE SIEMON

p h oto g r a p h y by

40 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Follow the Brewery Trail around Flagstaff.

Visit nine separate locations and receive a sticker at each spot for your passport.

Return a completed passport to the Flagstaff Convention and Visitors Bureau and receive a souvenir pint glass.

01

Historic Brewing Company

02

Wanderlust Brewing Company

fun fact: Historic Brewing also has a taproom in Williams,

Arizona. They make a mean Bloody Mary if you’re not in a beer mood. favorite beers: Salt River, salt and lime Arizona Lager; Opposable IPA tip: Start with this brewery first, as it is the farthest away from the rest, and work your way downtown. Happy Hour is a good time to go. fun fact: Wanderlust Brewing prides themselves on

specializing in old-world style beers (think Farmhouse Ales, Saisons and Belgians). favorite beers: 928 Local Farmhouse Ale; Banjo Bill’s Blackberry Sour tip: Wanderlust Brewing is a tricky one since it lands right between Historic Brewing and the rest of the stops downtown. It’s only open 4-9 p.m. on weekdays and 2-8 p.m. on the weekends, so some strategic planning is needed for this stop.

03

Mother Road Brewing Company – Butler

07

fun fact: This taproom location allows you to see the

brewing process for Mother Road Brewing’s beer. This is their second location. favorite beers: Daily Driver Session IPA; Conserve and Protect Kölsch Ale tip: This is a good place to stop and relax. Family friendly with board games provided.

Flagstaff Brewing Company fun fact: Like whiskey? Along with a good beer selection,

Flagstaff Brewery also offers collections of single malt whiskeys in the country. favorite beers: Agassiz Amber; Three-Pin Pale Ale tip: Locals know this location as “Flag Brew.”

08

Dark Sky Brewing fun fact: Dark Sky Brewing is always coming up with

something new, having brewed over 500 different beer recipes to date! favorite beers: It’s difficult to pin down one beer, since DSB’s selection is never the same. For a current beer list, check their Facebook Page. tip: Get a taster flight and make choosing a beer less difficult.

Pizza and a patio are two great complements to the beer at Mother Road Brewery.

04

Mother Road Brewing Company – Pike fun fact: This is the original brewery of the two Mother

Road locations (see stop 3). favorite beers: Since we named our two favorite flagship beers above, ask them about their seasonal beer offerings. tip: Hungry? Try the wood-fired pizza from Pizzicletta and enjoy out on the patio.

05

Beaver Street Brewery

06

Lumberyard Brewing Company

fun fact: Beaver Street Brewery is Flagstaff’s oldest brewery,

first opening its doors in March 1994. favorite beers: Railhead Red; HopShot Red IPA tip: Beaver Street offers a pool hall called Brews and Cues right next door to the brewery itself. If you like to play pool, this is a must.

A taster flight makes choosing the right beer easier at Dark Sky Brewing.

09

Grand Canyon Brewing + Distillery fun fact: Grand Canyon Brewing’s “Kachina Throwback Ale”

is the official beer of the Arizona Coyotes hockey team. favorite beers: American Pilsner; Sunset Amber Ale tip: Grab this sticker at lunchtime and enjoy a burger or calzone.

Three down, six to go at Lumberyard Brewing.

fun fact: This is the sister brewery to Beaver Street Brewery

(see stop 5) opened in 2010. favorite beers: Humphrey’s Hefe; Red Rock Raspberry tip: This is a great spot to grab dinner. We recommend the wings and tri-tip steak with a side of mac ‘n’ cheese.

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KILLER WEEKEND

Ridgway, Colorado

B

HEAD OUT ANY DIRECTION OR STICK AROUND, THIS OUTDOOR HAVEN FITS THE BILL

The mineral-rich waters of Orvis Hot Springs Resort soothe body naturally. photo by Orvis Hot Springs Resort

Boasting the only traffic light in Ouray County, Ridgway is a low-key little town situated in the Uncompahgre Valley at the northern gateway to the San Juan Mountains. It’s a true multisport mecca, and residents take full advantage of the backyard opportunities.

Taco del Gnar ranks near the top of the “must try” list when visiting Ridgway. photo by Taco del Gnar

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Take a peek in most anyone’s garage and you’ll find a mashup of skis, bikes, rafts, kayaks, paddleboards, climbing ropes, backpacks and sleeping bags. Vehicles are often relegated to street parking.

The hiking opportunities are the most obvious attraction in the area. Spread out any map and you’ll find dozens of trails.

Destinations such as Blue Lakes beneath the north face of Mount Sneffels (14,150’) are justifiably popular but often feel “busy” – you may encounter a number of vehicles parked at the trailhead on any given weekend.

For a quieter experience, look east to the Cimarron Range. This range of peaks, reminiscent of the Italian Dolomites, is an often overlooked treasure. All three forks of the Cimarron River descend spectacular valleys, but the West Fork provides the easiest access from town.

Hikers, trail runners, peak baggers and technical climbers can all find a suitable adventure here.

Access to the West Fork is via County Road 8 or 10; signs point the way to Owl Creek Pass.

From the pass, take your first right on Forest Service 860. Two-wheel-drive vehicles will want to park at the Courthouse trailhead; high clearance vehicles can continue another

by

JAY COR BIN

mile to the West Fork trailhead just shy of the Uncompahgre Wilderness boundary. From the end of the road, the trail follows West Fork creek before climbing steeply at the head of the valley to West Fork pass overlooking Wetterhorn Basin. This is a roughly 6-mile round trip suitable for hiking and trail running.

For those who like to end their hikes on top of something, Courthouse Mountain is by far the most popular summit; a two-mile, 2,000foot climb on a good trail that requires just a bit of scrambling near the top. Other peaks in the valley include Coxcomb (13,656’), Redcliff (13,642’) and Precipice (13,144”). While Coxcomb requires a short stretch of mid-5th class climbing, the latter two peaks are satisfying off-trail hikes. Early season one can expect extensive snowfields and exhilarating glissades on descent. By mid-summer, expect to be overwhelmed by wildflowers. In all seasons, you’re likely to have these summits to yourself.

The West Fork’s obvious objective for technical climbers is Chimney Rock’s South Face Crack. It is a proud-looking summit, but don’t be lulled into complacency by the 5.6 rating. The rock quality and lack of protection make for heads-up climbing.

If you’re of the mind to mix it up a bit after a day spent hiking or climbing, don’t overlook Ridgway’s mountain biking opportunities.

Many years in the making, the Ridgway Area Trails (RAT) group has, in the past five years, developed an extensive network of superb single track in the pinyon-juniper hills northeast of town. The trails are seasonally closed until the first of May, but the 7000-feet elevation keeps riding comfortable long after the heat of summer makes destinations like Moab or Fruita unthinkable.

There are several options for accessing the trails but the main trailhead is located a couple miles north of town on County Road 10 roughly a half a mile off Highway 550.

The trails are simply referred to as the “RAT trails” and the naming convention plays to the theme: Rat Trap, Exterminator, Speedy Gonzales, etc. They range from flowing, howfast-do-you-dare to double-black descents featuring steep drops and tight turns.

Your goal, generally, is to hit the summit at 4 Corners (via The Big Cheese or Rattus Maximus) and then pick your adventure. One recommendation would include Ratical to the Plagueground and north to the Karni Mati loop. The Ridgway Area Trails website suggests a few options that will suit a variety of skill/ experience levels.

If you’ve still got game after a long morning in the saddle, the Uncompahgre River and the Ridgway Reservoir are a nice change of pace.

You can launch a kayak from Rollins Park in town. There are a couple of manmade play features right at the put-in and a two-hour float/paddle will deposit you in the Ridgway Reservoir. For flat water aficionados, stand-up paddle boarding on the reservoir makes for a relaxing afternoon. RIGS Fly Shop can hook you up with inflatable kayak and SUP rentals.

EATS AND DRINKS Given the small size of Ridgway, there are a remarkable variety of dining options.

Colorado Boy Pub has been a community gathering place since it opened in 2008. They feature artisan pizzas, salads and a variety of beers to match any palate. Or try Taco del Gnar. Gnar’s fusion tacos seriously raise the bar on the fast-casual concept in a very hip, welcoming atmosphere.

WHERE TO STAY There is plenty of public land surrounding Ridgway. A quick study of the map will suggest any number of undeveloped camping opportunities on Bureau of Land Management or U.S. Forest Service land.

For those desiring a few amenities, Ridgway State Park offers developed camping – tent or RV – just 10 minutes north of town.

Reservations are recommended (if not required) during the summer months.

If you’re looking for an affordable indulgence, the clothing optional Orvis Hot Springs immediately south of town offers tent and RV camping for $49/adult or lodging for two at $169. Both options include soaking passes for two days.

Chipeta Solar Springs Resort is ideal for a romantic getaway. It has a unique, peaceful vibe and offers a range of spa services. A late afternoon cocktail at the rooftop Sky Bar is an entirely satisfying way to wind down the day.

The view is stunning.

Often featuring live music, Chipeta’s Sky Bar is a nice spot to unwind at the end of a long day. photo by Chipeta Solar Springs Resort

The Uncompahgre and Cimarron rivers are popular fishing spots for rainbows and cutthroats. photo by Chipeta Solar Springs Resort

JAY CORBIN has been exploring the northern San Juan mountains since the mid-1990s. For the past 10 years he has called Colorado's western slope home.

The RAT trails appeal to all ages and abilities. photo by Nicole Greene In the warm months, Ridgway State Park’s swim beach is a popular spot to cool off. photo by Ridgway State Park

Red Cliff, Coxcomb and West Fork Pass at the head of West Fork Valley. photo by Raleigh Coburn S P R I N G 2 0 2 0

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

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HIDDEN GEMS

WILDLIFE

SPRING AWAKENING:

WILDLIFE-VIEWING OPPORTUNITIES AROUND THE FOUR CORNERS by

As Mother Nature pulls back her blanket of snow, the environment awakens across the Four Corners. Birds stretch their wings after arduous journeys, lizards warm themselves on sunny rocks, bears emerge from dens and babies of all species are born.

The quietness of falling snow is replaced with the chatter of songbirds and a palate of colors paints the landscape from above and below.

Spring is a glorious time and quite possibly the liveliest of the seasons.

It is also one of the best times of the year to view wildlife — and the Four Corners abounds with opportunities.

JENN Y JOHN STON

SAN LUIS VALLEY CRANE MIGRATION MONTE VISTA, COLORADO Perhaps nothing signals the arrival of spring better than the homecoming of migratory birds. The San Luis Valley in the Monte Vista area is prime real estate for one gangly migratory avian. Flocks of sandhill cranes arrive in droves, with an estimated 23,000 to 27,000 birds descending to local barley fields across the valley and the wetlands in the San Luis Valley National Wildlife Refuge Complex.

Standing 4 feet tall with a wingspan reaching up to 7 feet, this impressive bird is one of the oldest inhabitants of the area and spring provides one of the best times to view it. Springtime mating dances and the “karrrooo” of their distinct call offer a ballet of sight and sound for birdwatchers.

The celebrated bird even has its own annual festival, the Monte Vista Crane Festival held this year March 6-8.

“Spring offers a unique situation. The wetlands and barley fiends have been managed all year in an effort to attract the greatest amounts of cranes and the cranes have learned where the food is. It is

›› Tens of thousands of sandhill cranes will arrive this spring to the fields and wetlands of the San Luis Valley. photo by Ed MacKerrow, (inlightofnature.com)

typical to see five to six thousand birds in a single field at a time,” said Ruthanne Johnson, Crane Festival committee member.

Viewing the cranes and other waterfowl in the Monte Vista area is a perfect springtime endeavor for anyone wishing to get an up close and personal experience with the wild environment.

“To see cranes dancing and calling in the fields, is an amazing, even spiritual experience,” Johnson said. “When you add in the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range, the event is absolutely breathtaking.”

Check out www.mvcranefest.org for more information about the festival, refuge and crane migration.

A healthy supply of waterfowl and small mammals keep bald and golden eagles focused on hunting grounds south of Flagstaff in Sedona.

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BIG VIDAL MEADOW ELK CALVING NEW MEXICO If larger game is your interest, head to the Carson National Forest in northern New Mexico and into the Valle Vidal (The Valley of Life). A day trip from Taos, the lush 3,800-acre Big Vidal Meadow in the 101,794-acre Valle Vidal is prime elk-viewing habitat.

As described by the U.S. Forest Service, “this meadow is home to hundreds of cow elk in the spring (May 1-June 30) as they give birth to the next generation.

New elk calves can be observed from Forest Road 1950 in the spring, but visitors are not allowed in the meadow itself until after June 30 to limit the disturbance to these new babies.”

Elk have made a significant comeback in New Mexico from

››

the early 1900s when they all but disappeared from over-hunting.

Reintroduction efforts from 1910 to 1966 boosted the return of the elk population to where it is today. And there is no better place than Valle Vidal to view the largest elk herd in New Mexico. Estimated at more than 2,500 animals, the elk herd is thriving and there is no better time to view the newest generation than in the spring.

In addition to elk, visitors can also see mule deer, black bear, mountain lions, bald eagles and, in the nearby streams, the native Rio Grande cutthroat trout.

For more information, visit www. taos.org and enter Valle Vidal into the search field.

The Big Vidal Meadow in New Mexico’s Valle Vidal will see the birth of hundreds of elk calves this spring. photo courtesy of Carson National Forest

›› SCOTT M. MATHESON WETLANDS

PRESERVE WILDLIFE OASIS MOAB, UTAH

The Nature Conservancy: The Scott M. Matheson Wetlands Preserve adjacent to the Colorado River is the wetland home to a vast number of birds and animals. photo courtesy of The Nature Conservancy

In Moab, you can find the Scott M. Matheson Wetlands Preserve. This wetland ecosystem offers visitors and its inhabitants the opportunity to experience a vastly different habitat from the surrounding environment. This 900acre desert oasis is home to over 200 species of birds, as well as small mammals, amphibians and mule deer.

Located along the banks of the Colorado River, the preserve stands in contrast to the arid red rocks and earth that the area is famous for. “Springtime is a beautiful time

to visit the preserve,” said Linda Whitham, regional program manager of the Nature Conservancy. “With the arrival of the migratory songbirds, this time of year it is filled with incredible color and sound.”

A mile-long trail system provides visitors the opportunity to experience the preserve and view its inhabitants – truly an experience for the senses. Benches are available along the banks of the river. Bring your binoculars and leave your worries at home. This is a place to sit and reflect, taking in the splendor of the environment.

›› BALD AND GOLDEN EAGLE VIEWING FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA In northern Arizona, the majesty of earth is mirrored in the skies as bald and golden eagles soar and swoop the springtime vistas.

Below, visitors are reminded that this is the one time of the year that looking up is as much reward as scanning the canyons and surrounding landscapes. From the Flagstaff area to Lees Ferry, visitors have opportunities to view these majestic birds.

“Just north of Flagstaff, visitors can head to the Lake Mary and Mormon Lake areas for some prime eagle-viewing opportunities. The concentration of prey animals in these areas makes them a unique place to spot both bald

and golden eagles,” said Hannah Griscom, habitat specialist with the Arizona Game and Fish.

“Bald eagles tend to feed on the ducks and fish while the golden eagles are hunting the carrion, terrestrial animals and rabbits,” Griscom said. “Spring is a unique time to see eagles in these areas because bald eagles don’t typically spend the entire year on one place. However, with the significant food source concentrated around these lakes, they have little reason to leave. The golden eagles migrate through.”

The Annual Bald Eagle Celebration held in February showcases these birds and their life cycles.

“Live eagles, lectures, viewing opportunities in captivity and the wild are offered including a kids program allowing the public to learn about eagles,” Griscom said.

If you are interested in learning more about eagles in the area, check out www.azwatchwildlife.com JENNY JOHNSTON resides in Durango, Colorado, and is an outdoor writer and mother to two children who would much rather be outdoors exploring than inside watching her write. Look for her and her youngsters in the backcountry near you.

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C A L E N DA R NEW MEXICO MARCH 23 - 29 Mardi Gras Celebration ANGEL FIRE RESORT www.angelfireresort.com APRIL 24 – 25 Gathering of Nations Powwow ALBUQUERQUE www.gatheringofnations.com APRIL 4 Slush Cup SKI SANTA FE www.skisantafe.com APRIL 18 - 19 Wild West Mountain Bike Festival GRINDSTONE www.trailforks.com MAY 21 Albuquerque Beer Week ALBUQUERQUE www.abqbeerweek.com MAY 22 – 24 Riverfest FARMINGTON www.riverreachfoundation.com/events

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CO LO R A D O MAY 23 – 25 New Mexico Wine Festival ALBUQUERQUE www.nmwine.com MAY 24 Albuquerque Blues and Brews SANDIA RESORT & CASINO www.abqbluesandbrews.com MAY 27 Acoma Seed Run ACOMA www.raceentry.com JUNE 13 - 14 24 Hours in the Enchanted Forest MTB Festival GALLUP www.ziarides.com JUNE 20 Festival Eclectica ANGEL FIRE www.festivalnet.com JUNE 20 – 21 Brewdoso Craft Beer and Wine Festival RUIDOSO www.discoverruidoso.com

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

MARCH 29 Clauson Classic SILVERTON MOUNTAIN www.silvertonmountain.com APRIL 18 - 19 Desert RATS Trail Running Festival FRUITA www.geminiadventures.com MAY 9 Rabbit Valley Half Marathon FRUITA WWW.geminiadventures.com MAY 17 Genesis Adventure Race LITTLETON www.rockymountainadventureseries.com MAY 22 – 24 Iron Horse Bicycle Classic DURANGO www.ironhorsebicycleclassic.com MAY 22 – 25 CKS Paddlefest BUENA VISTA www.ckspaddlefest.com

MAY 23 High Drive Challenge COLORADO SPRINGS www.madmooseevents.com MAY 30 Lyons Outdoor Games LYONS www.burningcancolorado.com MAY 30 Animas River Days DURANGO www.animasriverdays.com MAY 30 Valkyrie Trail Race COLORADO SPRINGS www.madmooseevents.com JUNE 4 – 7 GoPro Mountain Games VAIL www.mountaingames.com JUNE 6 Dolores River Fest DOLORES www.visitdolores.com/event-calendar

U TA H MARCH 21 Behind the Rocks Ultra MOAB www.madmooseevents.com MARCH 28 - 30 Moab Rocks MOAB www.transrockies.com APRIL 17 RedStone Highland Games & Festival ST. GEORGE www.greaterzion.com APRIL 18 Amasa Trail Race MOAB www.madmooseevents.com APRIL 18 - 19 Zion Ultra Marathons and Trail Half Marathon VIRGIN www.vacationraces.com MAY 1 Moab Arts Festival MOAB www.festivalnet.com

A R I ZO N A MAY 2 7th Annual Gran Fondo MOAB www.granfondomoab.com MAY 9 Hurricane Mud Run HURRICANE www.hurricanemudrun.com MAY 9 Made in Utah Brewers Fest SALT LAKE CITY www.eventbrite.com MAY 23 - 24 Moab Arts Festival MOAB www.moabartsfestival.org JUNE 6 Thelma & Louise Half Marathon and Relay MOAB www.madmooseevents.com JUNE 14 - 20 Desert RATS Kokopelli 150 MOAB www.geminiadventures.com

MARCH 28 5th Annual Boze Bump Bash ARIZONA SNOWBOWL www.snowbowl.ski MARCH 28 Sedona Stumble 5K & 10K SEDONA www.visitsedona.com MARCH 28 6th Annual Cardboard Derby Classic ARIZONA SNOWBOWL www.snowbowl.ski MAY 1 Shiprock Marathon SHIPROCK http://navajoyes.org/ MAY 18 – 19 Fiesta de Mayo FLAGSTAFF www.flagstaffarizona.org MAY 25 – 26 Zuni Festival FLAGSTAFF www.flagstaffarizona.org

APRIL 4 Flagstaff Music Festival FLAGSTAFF www.orpheumflagstaff.com APRIL 4 Rugged Maniac CHANDLER WWW.ruggedmaniac.com APRIL 5 Baja Beer Festival TUCSON www.chooseazbrews.com APRIL 18 Tillman Honor Run FLAGSTAFF www.eventbrite.com JUNE 1 – 2 Hullabaloo FLAGSTAFF www.flagstaffarizona.org JUNE 8 Made In The Shade FLAGSTAFF www.flagstaffarizona.org photo by Terrance Siemon

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READER’S PHOTO

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MIX LAKE This photo was taken at Mix Lake, which is near to and at a little higher elevation than Platoro Reservoir located west of Alamosa. I had intended to canoe on Platoro but the wind was creating whitecaps so I paddled the much smaller and much calmer Mix Lake. I was on a camping b y T HOM AS H E L M trip to canoe, hike and climb Conejos peak, a 13,172-foot peak. I got past Tobacco Lake on the climb but a storm forced me down just a mile from the top. I’m 71 years old and climbed five peaks that summer, including Uncompahgre.

Would you like to share your photos with readers of Adventure Pro Magazine? We’ve made it easy for you to upload photos online at adventurepro.us. Look for the “Share A Photo” tab in the top-right position in the menu and you’re on your way.

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“More than 850 flavor and aromatic compounds exist in coffee. Only 200 are in wine,” said Sam Higby, 39, co-owner of First Ascent Coffee Roasters (FA).

H

Higby stops to arrange a blind cupping for me with their handcrafted instant coffee in the workshop in Crested Butte, Colorado. The space around us holds a packaging machine, freeze dryer, and top-secret frankensteined brew system with Higby’s coal-toned, lanky Bernedoodle puppy springing around the open floor. The cozy factory is full of bean aroma, per Higby’s elation. He and his business partners, co-founders Allison and Mark Drucker, are on a mission to deliver the best single-pour, packaged coffee on the market. And according to a recent SNEWS poll, they do: FA won by a landslide with 46% of votes among competitors.

Higby first discovered his coffee ritual at age 26, while working as an Outward Bound mountaineering and climbing instructor throughout the Colorado Rockies. He and colleagues established French press lunch breaks while clients ate. They’d meander down Higby serves free coffee on a Saturday morning before climbing cracks at Indian Creek, Utah. photo by Sam Higby

sto ry by

M OR G AN TI LTON

TRAIL BOOST

PERFECT

WILD VOICES

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Higby on a Utah skitour drinking Jack Mormon Coffee, the source of his most memorable cup. photo by Sam Higby

Higby perfects a pour in the Guild Cafe as the barista manager. photo by Adria Ellis

“Every barista wanted to make each beverage better.

I appreciated and wanted to be a part of that energy.”

Rocky Mountain National Park: Does coffee stirred with a climbing nut add a nutty flavor? photo by Sam Higby

Higby and his partner Hannah Lang drink coffee after hitting the summit of The Spearhead in Rocky Mountain National Park. photo by Sam Higby

trail, cafe in hand: a mental reset.

And for big climbs, his mornings start with a pour pre-daybreak.

“I have nerves before an objective,” Higby said recalling his most memorable cup: an Ethiopia Yirgacheffe freshly roasted on a Clover coffee maker at Salt Lake City’s Jack Mormon Coffee in 2008. “The ceremony of hot water, steam, aroma and a warm cup in your hands, even before you even drink it, helps put the day in motion.”

After holding several top-notch outdoor industry jobs, Higby wasn’t content with his career path. In 2013, he decided to follow another passion. Higby cold-emailed Boxcar, a nationally renowned coffee shop in Boulder, his then-hometown, to seek a job sans credentials.

“As a customer, my drinks were consistent,” Higby said. “Every barista wanted to make each Latte art by Higby – the sign of a proud barista. photo by Sam Higby

beverage better. I appreciated and wanted to be a part of that energy.”

As a dishwasher, he studied their artistry and was promoted to shift lead. Little did Higby know, a Boxcar barista title would help secure a life-changing position as the FA barista manager, which he sought, in 2017.

“One of my first days at the cafe, Mark handed me a cup of coffee to do a blind tasting. It was a really nice flavor—and was his instant blend. I said, ‘This’ll put your kid through college.’”

Higby joined as a business partner when they closed the cafefront to focus on instant brew, a year later. Today, Mark is still the primary roaster and Allison covers marketing while Higby manages production and events.

Recently, FA received a $250,000 business grant, from the Colorado Office of Economic Development and International Trade, to invest in a commercial freeze dryer that’ll increase weekly production by eight-fold. The goal? To grow their outdoor retailer partnerships from a handful to 50 nationwide, in 2020. And in the long run, to fuel their local community byway of more jobs—and countless caffeinated ski runs.

As Higby said, “Whether you sit at a coffee shop or in a tent, drinking coffee is an important part of our outdoor community and lives, which I find solace in.”

MORGAN TILTON is an award-winning travel and adventure writer for close to 60 publications. She lives in the Elk Mountains, where she plays outside — and enjoys coffee from a French press — year-round.

She hopes to understand how to make a cup of coffee as perfectly as Sam one day.

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V I S TA S

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Corey Wright leads a 5.11 route on amazing Navajo sandstone in Paradox Valley. photo by Terrance Siemon

THE OUR AY

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