2011 Southwest Winter Guide

2 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

What’s Inside...

4

Introduction

Be entertained 6 7 14 38 26

10

Welcome to Winter Wonderland Arts & Entertainment Events Nutcracker Polar Express Snowdown

Get energized

38

18 22 24 28 43 42 44

Ski Areas Adventure Skiing Cross-Country Skiing Snowmobiling and Snowshoeing Ice Skating Winter Fishing Winter Safety

Be curious 30 Museums

Get relaxed 34 Spa Treatments

26

Beyond Durango 47 48 49 51 52 56 60 61

Bayfield, Cortez, Dolores Mancos, Mesa Verde Ignacio Ouray Pagosa Springs Silverton Vallecito Farmington/Aztec

14 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 3

Shred the slopes & dance with a tipsy fairy

Snowboard competitor Cassidy Barry catches air at the Winterfest Freestyle Ski Jumping Contest at Durango Mountain Resort on January 15, 2011.

Winter in Southwest Colorado is like a fairy tale.

Snow garnishes the tops of ponderosa and spruce like marshmallow fluff. Sleigh bells ring, stars twinkle; and if you squint your eyes just so, you might see fairy princesses gliding through downtown Durango bars, chugging microbrews late into the night.

Durango’s goofy winter festival, Snowdown, will have the theme of “Once Upon A Snowdown” this year, which means locals and visitors may also be able to see knights, dragons, ogres and wicked stepmothers carousing with those tipsy fairy princesses. To see just how wacky this multi-event festival is, turn to Page 26 for photos from last year’s “monstrous” event.

If it’s sugary, cream-puff snow you crave, you’ll find a type of skiing to fit every age, level and interest. Try the thrill of alpine skiing and snowboarding at Durango Mountain Resort, Wolf Creek or down-home charming Hesperus or Chapman ski areas. Trade the fat skis for skinnys and try classic crosscountry or skate skiing on the region’s many beautiful trails.

Adrenalin junkies can opt for a ski adventure hiking high in the backcountry with Silverton Mountain guides. (Read about one skier’s trip on Page 22.) Do these skiing options seem too humdrum? Watch as horses galloping at full speed pull people over jumps in the jaw-dropping Snowdown sport of skijoring.

Indoor activities will warm the heart as well as the cold toes.

Explore the region’s new state-of-the-art museums, such as the Durango Discovery Museum or the new Southern Ute Cultural Center & Museum in Ignacio. Ride the Polar Express, where over-the-moon kids step into the famous story on Durango’s historic train. In December, watch mice, bon bons, soldiers and angels dance across the stage in Santa Barbara State Street Ballet’s “Nutcraker,” which incorporates local children as part of the cast. (See Page 14.) Both of these events will help adults believe again: Holiday magic still exists.

Is that snow falling, or fairy dust? – Karla Sluis

4 2 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Publisher

Richard Ballantine General Manager

SHARON HERMES Design Manager

bRADY SUTHERLIN Section Editor

KARLA SLUIS Layout and Design

JENNIFER DICKENS PHOTOGRAPHER

HAL LOTT Advertising Design/Prepress

mITCHELL CARTER GEORGIA DAVENPORT jENNIFER DICKENS JANELLE FARNAM lANEY PETERSON MICHELLE UHL TRACY WILBANKS Account Executives

dARRYL HUNT KAROLANN LATIMER SHAWNA LONG ROB LILLARD CHUCK JILLSON CORRIN OXNAM ADAM ADIMOOLAH CORA YOUNIe A publication of

The Durango Herald uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special magazine publications. However, all general information comes from a variety of sources and may change at any time for any reason. To verify specific information, refer to the organization or business noted. To view the online version of this guide, visit: www.durangoherald.com

COVER PHOTO HAL LOTT Fold-out Map Design Brady Sutherlin

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 5

WELCOME TO WINTER WONDERLAND

Hal Lott/Herald

S

outhwest Colorado’s mild winters are filled with blue skies, brilliant sunshine and “brisk” temperatures. In Durango, snow is something to celebrate. Local bars and ski areas hold “pray to the snow gods” parties to kick off a season of snow sports.

When the first white flakes fall, you’ll see little-kid grins on grown-up faces as you walk around town. There’s a sense of eagerness to grab skis and sleds and head for the nearest hill. Snow brings an economic boost to many parts of the community, but it’s also welcomed for the sheer fun it brings.

There are plenty of snow sports to satisfy athletes and adventurous spirits, including skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, ice fishing and ice climbing. But for families with little ones or people who like to chill out when it’s chilly, there are lower-impact activities, too, and some of the best family-bonding activities are free. Simple snowball fights and snowman-making would fill a delightful afternoon for children.

Here’s a list of more ideas for fun in our winter wonderland.

Sleigh Rides In December through February, subject to weather conditions, Rapp Corral offers custom horse-drawn sleigh rides between Durango and Purgatory. Enjoy 45 minutes aboard handmade sleds pulled by draft horses in bells and finery. The three-mile ride goes through beautiful snowscapes along the shores of Haviland Lake under the Hermosa Cliffs, 17 miles north of Durango on Highway 550. These rides run daily for groups, couples or individuals. Rides are offered on the hour by reservation only. The cost is $40 per person; kids 5 and under ride free. A private sleigh for two is $100.

6 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

From Dec. 17-24, Rapp Corral is offering a Santa Sleigh this year.

The ride is about 15 minutes, and ends with a bonfire, decorations, hot chocolate and gifts from Santa. The cost is $25 per person (kids under 1 year old are free) and space is limited. Call (970) 247-8454 or e-mail anne@rappcorral.com.

Dog Sledding Experience a dog-powered exploration of the snowy peaks of Southwest Colorado. Durango Dog Ranch offers high-end dog sled adventures for all ages. The season begins mid-November through mid-April, weather permitting. There is a guide on every sled, and all participants drive the sled. All trips are by reservation. Call for more details and to book your adventure. Hot drinks, fresh snacks and a camaraderie between human and canine are just some of the highlights. A half-day mush adventure for two adults is $400, and a full-day mush with lunch is $695. For more information, call (970) 259-0694 or visit www.durangodogranch.com.

Ice Skating

DURANGO: Chapman Hill Chapman Hill is a small, in-town ski and skate facility. During the winter “ice season,” which runs from October through April 30, a refrigerated rink provides excellent ice skating. The pavilion has concessions and a sitting area with views and a fireplace. Weekday admission: 3 and under free; youth (4-17) $4; adult (18-59) $5; seniors (60 and up) $4. Weekend prices are $5 youth and $6 adult. Ice skate rentals are $3. Lessons are available. Call 375-7395 or visit www.durangogov.org/chapman for more information.

SILVERTON: Kendall Mountain Recreation Area Sharpen up those blades and try out the town ice rink.

It’s always open, weather-permitting. There is no charge for skating, sledding or tubing. Ice skate rentals are available on the top floor of the Kendall Mountain Community Center.

For a classic Victorian experience, rent a pair of ice skates and glide under the moonlight on one of the largest outdoor skating rinks in the Rocky Mountains. Kendall is also a sledder’s paradise. You’ll find a gentle slope for the youngsters and a tubing hill for the more adventurous. Remember this is old-fashioned fun, so be ready to hike up and bring your own sled. For more information on Kendall visit www. skikendall.com.

OURAY: Rotary Park Rink The Ouray ice skating rink is located at Rotary Park, approximately one mile north of the Hot Springs Pool. The rink is typically open from late December through the winter as long as temperatures remain cold enough to maintain ice. A little skier gets a tow at Durango Mountain Resort. Hal Lott/Herald Bring your skates and enjoy the fun atmosphere of an outdoor ice rink, or pick up a game of “broomball” with some of the locals. The rink is maintained by the City of Ouray and a said co-owner Walker Thompson. cadre of volunteers. There is a small warming hut located at Walk-ins are welcome. There are a variety of fees and memberthe rink. Lights at the rink allow for skating in the cold and silent hours ships; a daily drop-in fee is $12 for adults and $8 for kids. For those of a winter evening with stars shining above. For more information, who are new to climbing, training sessions are available for $25 per call the Ouray Chamber Resort Association at (970) 325-4746. hour. For more information, call (970) 259-7625 or visit www. rockloungedurango.com.

Sledding Buckley Park, Durango Durango Community When there is enough snow in town, Buckley Park on Main Recreation Center Avenue between 12th and 13th streets is a family favorite. It’s arguably The 71,557-square-foot facility is located at 2700 Main Avenue. the best hill for little ones, because the downhill slide is gentle from It offers many amenities, including indoor swimming with a shallow the east rim above the park toward Main Avenue. On a fresh-snow children’s pool and water slide, separate lap pool and hot tub, gymnaday, this is a great spot for free, old-fashioned fun, including snowball sium, indoor track, group fitness room and racquetball courts. Reach fights, hot chocolate and building snowmen. Bring your own sled, and new heights by climbing to the top of the 30-foot high climbing watch out for rocks and man-made jumps. wall. Staff members are on-hand to assist with harnesses, to provide a belay and to give positive encouragement. There are also youth Chapman Hill, Durango programs and babysitting available. Call (970) 375-7300 or visit A dedicated sledding area is located north of the ski area at www.durangogov.org/reccenter/index.cfm for more information.

Chapman Hill. No sledding is allowed in the ski area. To get to Chapman Hill from Main Avenue, go east on 15th Street and veer left on Florida Road, make the first right into Chapman Hill.

Durango Mountain Resort For a fast and furious slide, fly down the mountain on a tube at the Snow Coaster tubing hill at Durango Mountain Resort. Rent a tube from Purgatory’s rental fleet, hike up the hill and then whoosh down one of three tubing lanes in the Columbine Area. All times and dates are subject to change, weather permitting. Cost is $5 per tube, per hour. Guests must use Purgatory’s tubes. Call (970) 247-9000 Ext. 11220 to check availability.

Indoor Climbing & Swimming

Rock Lounge Durango This climbing and yoga lounge is located at 1111 Camino Del Rio, Suite 105 (across the highway from south City Market) and features a 35-foot climbing wall, bouldering, autobelay, yoga, a children’s afterschool program and a coffee bar. “I wanted the climbing/outdoor culture to have a place to climb and a place to hang out and lounge,”

AREA EVeNTS NOVEMBER

Nov. 6: Daylight Saving Time ends Say goodbye to the long days of summer and prepare for long winter nights.

Nov. 4: 13th Annual Wine Tasting and Silent Auction Wine tasting & auction hosted by Liquor World and Habitat for Humanity of La Plata County at the DoubleTree Hotel Ballroom.

5:30-8:30 p.m.

Nov. 11: Veterans Parade Show your support for our veterans and troops and watch the parade on Main Ave. Call (970) 375-5065 for more information.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 7

Winter Wonderland

Horses head out for a sleigh ride in the snow at Rapp Corral.

Hal Lott/Herald Continued from Page 7

Nov. 18 - Dec. 29: The Polar Express The award-winning book comes to life on this magical journey. All passengers will enjoy the Polar Express story on the way to the North Pole. Hot chocolate and a treat are served by a personal chef, and guests sing Christmas carols on the return to Durango.

All kids aboard the train receive a special gift from Santa. Visit www.durangotrain.com for more information.

Nov. 23: Cascade Canyon Winter Train The train begins its winter schedule, turning around at Cascade Canyon. Visit www.durangotrain.com for more information.

Nov. 26 - Dec. 24: Holidazzle Holidazzle festivities kick off on November 26. More than 75 businesses in the Central Business District are offering gift drawings, with sign-ups being taken throughout the five-week promotional period that begins Nov. 15. Call Pam at (970) 375-5067 for more information.

Nov. 25: Sing with Santa & Tree Lighting Celebrate the coming of Christmas by meeting at the train station, then carol your way to Buckley Park to decorate the community tree. Visit www.durangobusiness.org for more information.

DECEMBER

Dec. 2: Noel Night Fulfill holiday wish lists in Durango’s unique shops while you enjoy refreshments, carolers and a visit from Santa. Call (970) 375-5000.

8 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Dec. 2-4: Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair Find unique handmade gifts at this kick-off to the holidays. Friday 12 to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the La Plata County Fairgrounds at 25th Street and Main Avenue. Call (970) 247-2117 for more information.

Dec. 4: Durango Choral Society’s “A Traditional Family Christmas” A traditional family Christmas, the annual holiday extravaganza features all three DCS choirs participating in a special celebration of our Southwestern heritage. Show starts at 3 p.m. at the Community Concert Hall at Fort Lewis College. Call (970) 247-7657 or visit www.durangoconcerts.com or for more information.

Dec. 22: Winter Solstice Observe and celebrate the shortest day of the year.

Dec. 24: Bar D Wranglers 29th Annual Christmas Eve Caroling The Wranglers invite you to join them at local restaurants and at the hospital. Call (970) 247-5753 for more information.

Dec. 31: New Year’s Eve Torchlight Parade Celebrate the New Year with a torchlight parade down Purgatory Mountain, followed by fireworks in the base area. Event is subject to change. For details, visit www.durangomountainresort.com or call (970) 247-9000.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 9

Arts & Entertainment

Chinese Golden Dragon Acrobats will perform Oct. 19 at the FLC Community Concert Hall.

Dec. 31: New Year’s Eve Presidential Train Feb. 29-March 4: The Durango Independent Film Festival Enjoy a festive evening excursion onboard a turn-of-the-century Bringing the Best in Independent Film to the Durango Community.

Presidential-class train. Entertainment, hors d’oeuvres, and a cash Visit www.durangofilm.org for showtimes and locations. bar. Visit www.durangotrain.com or call (970) 247-2733 or toll free at (877) 872-4607 for details and reservations.

FEBRUARY Feb. 1-5: Durango’s 34th Annual Snowdown Celebration “Once Upon a Snowdown” is the theme for this year’s celebration.

There is no shortage of fun during this week-long winter party. Festivities include parades with unique hand-made floats, the Snowdown Follies, and all the food and local beer you could ask for. The biggest question is which events to attend, as it is merely impossible to get to them all. For a complete schedule of events visit www. snowdown.org

COMMUNITY CONCERT HALL AT FORT LEWIS COLLEGE Durango may be a small town, but it offers big-city sophistication.

The Community Concert Hall at Fort Lewis College is an excellent example of this ‘wow’ factor.

The building is perched on the north edge of the “campus in the sky.” Driving up to the college and taking the loop along Rim Drive will reveal sweeping views of Durango, along with snowy mountain peaks to the north. Upon arrival at the Community Concert Hall, visitors may see echoes of Mesa Verde in the buildFeb. 17: Chocolate Fantasia ing’s architecture, which was inspired by ancestral Puebloan All the chocolate your heart desires. Sponsored by Rocky Mountain structures. Inside, ancient meets modern in state-of-the-art techChocolate, Fort Lewis College and local restaurants and caterers. nology. Versatile features include: large, open surfaces between Festivities begin at 5:30 p.m. at the La Plata County Fairgrounds. columns on either side of the hall where the variable sound abCall (970) 259-1021 for more information sorption system is installed, a wood band shell for classical music concerts, an elaborately rigged speaker system that enables 10 •

Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

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2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 11

Arts& & Entertainment Entertainment Events Arts

sound to be propelled to specific areas of the hall, an Intelligent Light system that mechanically adjusts or moves the lights during a performance, and a Midas soundboard – a system that is considered one of the world’s best. Here are three exciting entertainment options this year: OCTOBER 19: Chinese Golden Dragon Acrobats Juggling everything from umbrellas to soccer balls, and with props as varied as ladders and giant spinning wheels, the performers show why they’re worldfamous.

NOVEMBER 11: Dancing Earth The indigenous dance collective embodies the unique essence of a distinctive world view. Primal and conDancing Earth will perform in Durango on Nov. 11. temporary, the show is rooted in the spirit and energy of the first peoples and the land. of E. 2nd Ave. and 8th St. was once home to a car dealership.

DECEMBER 19: Big Bad Voodoo Daddy’s Wild & In 1997, the community collaborated to fund and renovate the 17,000-square-foot building, now home to a gallery, theater, arts Swingin’ Holiday Party Zoot-suit-clad, “neo-swing” band delivers a “live” and updated library, studio space and more. Here’s a sample of the events at version of “Everything You Want for Christmas,” an energetic the DAC this season: performance to be enjoyed by all ages. Ticketing: (970) 247OCTOBER 7-NOVEMBER 12: “Seuss on the Loose,” 7657 or visitwww.durangoconcerts.com. selections of Dr. Seuss’ original drawings

THEATERS

Abbey Theatre 128 E. College Drive (970) 385-1711 Full bar and live music featuring national musicians: blues to bluegrass, hip hop to Americana folk. For show times, visit www. abbeytheatre.com.

The Back Space Theatre 1120 Main Ave. Ste.2 (970) 259-7940 Nonprofit “Black Box Theatre” is a community-oriented venue that provides audiences with dance and theatre performances as well independent films. Call for show times or visit www.thebackspacetheatre.org.

Gaslight Cinema 102 East Fifth St. (970) 247-8133 The Gaslight Theatre, featuring foreign, independent and commercial films, is located in the heart of Durango. www.storytellertheatres.com.

Storyteller Durango Stadium 9 900 Translux Drive (970) 247-9799 The High 5 Cinema is located in the Durango Mall parking lot with plenty of free parking. The theater features seven screens, stadium seating and Digital Surround Sound. Visit www.storytellertheatres.com.

12 •

NOVEMBER 25-26 & DECEMBER 2-3: “Sidewalk Vendor Days”

ART GALLERIES The Earthen Vessel 115 W. 9th St., Durango, (970) 247-1281, www.earthenvessel. com. Southern Ute Reservation exhibits, handcrafted pottery, jewelry and metal art.

Ellis Contemporary Art Gallery 822 Main Ave., Durango, (970) 382-9855, www.elliscontemporary.com Local and national artists with contemporary fine art, glass and jewelry.

Image Counts Fine Art Photography 2053 N. Main Ave., Durango, (970) 382-0055, www.image counts.com Fine art, nature photography and quality custom framing.

Open Shutter Photography Gallery 735 Main Avenue, Durango, (970) 382-8355, www.openshuttergallery.com. Fine art photography. Their services also include photography classes and local tours.

DURANGO ARTS CENTER

Rain Dance Gallery 945 Main Ave., Durango, (970) 375-2708, www.raindancegallery.com Contemporary representational paintings, sculpture, glass and furniture art by Western and American Indian artists.

At the Durango Arts Center you can enjoy the visual arts, theater, dance, live music, education programs for children and adults and many other activities for all ages. Located in downtown Durango, the DAC has become the hub for cultural innovation in Southwest Colorado. The building housing DAC, at the corner

Sorrell Sky Gallery 870 Main Ave., Durango, (970) 247-3555, www.sorrelsky.com Specializing in the art of Western lives, featuring work by acclaimed western artists.

Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Toh-Atin Gallery 145 W. 9th St., Durango, (970) 247-8277, www.toh-atin.com.

Native American and Southwest art with a nationwide reputation as one of the finest galleries of its kind in the country.

Termar Trends 780 Main Ave., Durango, (970) 247-3728, www.termartrends.com. A unique selection of art, crafts, furniture, jewelry and home accessories.

The World According to Mark 131 E. Eighth St. Durango, (970) 259-2392, www.worldaccordingtomark.com. Handcrafted jewelry, pottery paintings.

Azul Gallery 781 Main Ave., Durango, (970) 375-7742, www.azulgallery. com. Jewelry, ceramics, art class, metal art.

Karyn Gabaldon Fine Arts 680 Main Ave. Durango, (970) 247-9018. Contemporary fine art, sculpture, jewelry, glass and pottery.

RIGHT: This image of a painting by Rance Hood, Comanche, also known as the “Mystic Painter,” is at the Rain Dance Gallery in Durango. Hood is considered to be the leading Plains Indian artist of today.

Image courtesy of Lori Curtis/Rain Dance Gallery

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 13

nutcracker

Kids

glow with the

Auditions held today BELOW: From left, Holly Tate, 13, Madison Anderson, 12, and Mila Snow, 12, perform as Angels in a rehearsal for the 2010 State Street Ballet “Nutcracker.”

RIGHT: Holly Tate prepares to lead Bon Bons through a scene.

Today, Oct. 9, is the audition for Durango-area children who want to be in the State Street Ballet’s “Nutcracker” in December. The audition will be held at the FLC Concert Hall from 1-5 p.m. for various groups, ages 5-13. A dance background is helpful, but not required for the little kids. For more information, call Judy at 764-7142.

pros NUTCRACKER Photos by Hal Lott/Herald

Local children cast in “Nutcracker”

FEATURE

14 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

By Karla Sluis Herald Magazine Editor

W

hat do bon bons, mice, soldiers and angels have in common?

The Durango-area children who play these Nutcracker roles all have a special team. It’s made up of parents, professional dancers, director, instructor and community members who love to see stars in the children’s eyes.

Community is the force behind the Santa Barbara State Street Ballet’s “Nutcracker,” a beloved production that is returning to Durango this season. State Street Director and Founder Rodney Gustafson says the company takes the time and effort to cast local children in supporting dance roles because his mission is to inspire and educate as well as entertain.

“They all know about Lady Gaga,” said Gustafson, “but for many kids this is their first exposure to a classic arts form. We introduce young people to dance, theater, lighting, and all the different aspects of the arts that go into a production.”

Gustafson said his hope is that by participating in a ballet, children will have a deeper, more meaningful experience than the one-shot exposure of simply watching a performance.

Last year, approximately 60 Durango-area children were cast in the Nutcracker, and in previous years the count was more than 100.

Judy Austin, a choreographer, child therapist and Fort Lewis College dance teacher, is the rehearsal director for the show. She coordinates the children from various studios beginning in early October to get them ready for the performances in December. State Street gives Austin

music and choreography DVDs to teach to the children before the professional dancers arrive.

Parts include bon bons for the littlest kids, ages 5 and up; mice are the next age group; and party kids and angels are for older children who have a good foundation in ballet.

Autumn Rymerson, now 10, was cast as a mouse two years in a row. Her mother, Dawn Rymerson, said Autumn takes ballet, lyrical, hip hop and musical theater two days a week at Dance in the Rockies. Dawn Rymerson said her daughter thought it was a lot of work, but she liked performing.

Mice are, from left: Emma Hallin, 8, Alyx Potter, 7, and Haley Christianson, 8.

“She had been on stage a lot, but the experience of being with that level of professional was exciting for her. The little kids, they look up to them, like ‘ooooohh!’”

Austin said it can be challenging to coordinate so many children with “unbridled energy,” especially with fitting costumes and working around the inevitable holiday cold and flu season.

But she loves working with kids.

“The most rewarding thing is watching them discover something they love,” she said.

“Even if they don’t end up being dancers, it’s an experience that they’ll never forget.” She noted that several former Nutcracker kids from Durango have gone on to pursue professional dance careers.

Austin said she loves to watch the children be “filled with delight.” She likes to stand in the wings and watch that moment when the professional dancers in their tutus meet the kids on the set. “Our local kids… their eyes get real big.

It’s all those young ballerina dreams.”

The State Street performers will be in Durango for a whole week this year, according to Gustafson. This gives them time to do master classes and other teaching opportunities that are open to the community.

“We have a company that cares about kids,” said Gustafson. “They don’t feel it’s a hassle to work with them. I tell them, ‘You’re imparting wisdom and inspiring the kids.’”

Alyssa Maisel, now 10, was a mouse in 2008 and 2009. She hopes to be a solider this year.

“The dancers were all nice,” said Maisel. “It was fun, but it was kind of scary on stage. At first I was nervous, but once you get off stage, you want to do it again.”

Bess Maisel, Alyssa’s mom, said it was a good experience as a parent.

“It brings out a different character in your child,” she said. “She’s typically a shy kid, but she loves performing on stage.”

With rehearsals once or twice a week, Austin said she emphasizes teamwork.

“There aren’t any stars,” she said. “We work together to make the magic happen, and that’s from the person turning on the lights to each one of the kids. I like that about the Nutcracker. They get that they’re coming together for a special purpose.”

LEFT: Bon Bons, from left, Grace, Anna Cheesewright, 7, Mia Ciotti, 6, and Shelin Bassett, 6, race across the stage.

FAR LEFT: Soldiers stand at attention, from left: Margo Leavitt, 9, Shannin Mayberry, 9, and Jozlyn Klusack, 9.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 15

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16 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 17

ski Areas

Skiers gather at the base of Durango Mountain Resort. Below: A girl rides the rope tow at Chapman Hill. Hal Lott/Herald photos

Durango Mountain Resort

the nordic center

Ranked as one of America’s premier family-oriented ski resorts, DMR is located 25 miles north of Durango on U.S. Highway 550 in the San Juan National Forest. Annual snowfall is about 260 inches.

With its picturesque setting covering 2,500 acres on National Forest Service land, 85 trails are maintained on 1,325 acres. Snowmaking equipment now spans 250 acres of the resort’s maintained acreage with snowmaking coverage beneath nine of the resort’s ten lifts. At the resort’s tubing hill you can slide down a 600-foot-long track on special tubes. Purgatory Village Center has ski and snowboard rentals, restaurants, a small grocery store and deli, and sports shop. There are several on-mountain restaurants and food outlets.

Purgy’s Restaurant was included in the resort’s massive remodeling a year ago. So when the lifts close for the day, stick around after 6 p.m. when the table linens come out and the fine dining begins.

Among their many menu offerings, Purgy’s serves up one of the best rib-eye steaks in the Four Corners. Durango Mountain Resort offers ski school/lift packages and beginner packages for first-time skiers and snowboarders and a children’s lesson/lift ticket package.

Some programs require reservations. DMR’s Village Center and the mountain have gone through some updates including new and expanded trails, and facilities. For updates, visit www.durangomountainresort.com or call (970) 247-9000.

Once the snow flies The Nordic Center, just north of Durango Mountain Resort, will be open every day from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The daily trail fee is $12 for adults or $5 for kids and seniors over 65.

There are rental skis available on site. Classic skis are $14 for adults and $7 for kids and seniors. Skate skis are $22 for adults and $15 for juniors. Lessons are offered every day at 10.30 a.m. or 1.30 p.m.

This winter, the Nordic Center will also be renting snowshoes and will have a separate trail system for snowshoe use. For current information on conditions, passes, etc., call (970) 385-2114 or visit www. durangonordic.org/NordicCenter.htm.

DMR at a Glance Elevation at base 8,793’ Elevation at summit 10,822’ Vertical drop 2,029’ Skiable acres 1,200 Resort acres 2,500 Longest run 2 miles Beginner trails 23% Intermediate 51% Advanced/expert 26% Chairlift hours 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.

18 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Hesperus Ski Area Hesperus Ski Area, just west of Durango, is a small, friendly, inexpensive place to ski day and night. It has 75 acres of skiable terrain, featuring a 700-foot vertical drop, and served by one double chairlift. When the snow gets deep, the oak brush terrain can be excellent. Don’t let this small mountain fool you – it has challenging runs for advanced level skiers too. The hill has nine alpine runs.

Approximately 90% of the terrain is lighted until 9 p.m., including a lighted snowboard park. A beginner’s area is serviced by a rope tow. Both group and private lessons for downhill, telemark and snowboarding are available for all levels and abilities. Call (970) 259-3711 for information, or visit www.skihesperus.com

Chapman Hill As an extremely family-friendly venue, Chapman Hill serves as Durango’s in-town ski area and winter sports center. The hill, located on the east side of Florida Road, provides terrain for beginner and intermediate skiers, with a vertical drop of 775 feet.

The area offers skiers and snowboarders two rope tows, an ice skating rink, and a supervised warming house with hot drinks and snacks. Both the lifts and ski hill are supervised by trained staff.

Snowmaking offers a longer season. The typical skiing season for Chapman Hill is from early January through March, depending on the weather. Lessons are available. (970) 375-7300.

Silverton Mountain Silverton Mountain is a facility for advanced and expert skiers and snowboarders. The one double chairlift offers access to steep and deep powder-filled skiing. The high elevation ensures an early and long season. An easy hike to 13,300 feet offers an approximately 3,000-foot vertical drop. Guided skiing is available in November, December and April. For ticket prices and season opening date, call (970) 387-5706 or visit www.silvertonmountain.com

Kendall Mountain Ski & Recreation Area Located in Silverton, Colorado, with an average annual snowfall of 200 inches, Kendall Mountain is open for family fun. The ski lift operates Fridays-Sundays, holidays, and everyday during winter vacation (Dec. 19 - Jan. 4). The recreation area also offers 2 sledding hills and free ice skating. There are trails for snowmobiling, crosscountry skiing and snowshoeing also. Affordable equipment and warm snacks are available. The lodge can be reserved for retreats, conferences and weddings. The ski area can be reserved for private groups on weekdays. For details, call (970) 387-5528 or (970) 387-0182 or visit www.skikendall.comKendall Mountain At a Glance: Elevation at base: 9,300’ Vertical Drop: 240’ Beginner trails (2): 50% Intermediate (1): 25% Advanced (1): 25%

Telluride Ski Resort Nestled in a box canyon in the San Juan Mountains of Southwest Colorado, Telluride’s spectacular scenery is undeniably some of the most beautiful in the Rockies. Telluride blends historic buildings and local watering holes with world-class hotels, restaurants, shops and spas. This unique destination welcomes you with the same enthusiasm the locals feel for the mountains. Telluride has expanded by more than 300 acres over the past three seasons, adding to its already legendary terrain. In the 2008-09 winter season, Telluride opened Revelation Bowl as the biggest story in ski country, along with Gold Hill 1. Palmyra Peak, Black Iron Bowl and Gold Hill 6-10 opened in 2007-08 to a huge public response. Telluride offers some of the most stunning skiing and riding for all levels. Getting to Telluride is easy with nonstop flights from 8 U.S. cities on 6 commercial carriers to the Telluride/Montrose airports, including daily direct flights on Delta from Atlanta. Once you’re here, Telluride’s free gondola is the main source of transportation - no traffic or long lines, and no driving once you’ve arrived! Experience our unrivaled scenery and terrain, spectacular hotels, shopping and spas, the ease of direct flights… and discover why Telluride is unmatched in North America. For updates on ticket prices, call (800) 778-8581 or visit www.tellurideskiresort.com.

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enjoy. Cross-country skiing is also available. The ski school offers individual, group and private lessons as well as the popular Wolf Pup program for children. Snowboard and telemark lessons are also available. For ticket information (970) 264-5639 or visit www. wolfcreekski.com

Ski Areas

Wolf Creek at a glance Elevation at base 10,300’ Elevation at summit 11,904’ Vertical drop 1,604’ Skiable acres 1,600 Longest Run 2 miles Average Snowfall 465 inches Beginner terrain 20% Intermediate 35% Advanced 25% Expert 20% Lift hours 8:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Ticket hours 8:15 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.

Skiers ride the Express Lift (above), get beginner lessons (above right) and do snowboard tricks (below right) at Durango Mountain Resort. Hal Lott/Herald photos Telluride at a glance Elevation at base 8,725’ Elevation at lift summit 12,570’ Vertical drop 3,845’ Acres of skiing 2,000+ Longest run 4.6 miles Average snowfall 309 inches Beginner trails 23% Intermediate 36% Advanced 41% Hours 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.

WOLF CREEK SKI AREA Located east of Pagosa Springs atop the Rockies in the Rio Grande National Forest, Wolf Creek is a powder hound’s haven with more snowfall than any other area in the state: approximately 465 natural inches annually. Highway closures from snow storms may occur so check with the resort before leaving home. The more traditional terrain at Wolf Creek (500 acres and approximately 50 trails) is serviced by two triple chairlifts, one double, 1 quad, 1 quad detachable, one high speed poma lift, and one magic carpet. Unique to Wolf Creek is the 1,000 acres serviced by the Alberta quad. This lift gives access to steep chutes and many intermediate powder glades that adventuresome skiers and boarders

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The Silverton Mountain experience

Adventure Skiing

By John Fritzski

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Special to the Herald

W

here is this place? We must be getting close.

Eyes anxiously scan the steep canyon walls for any sign of a ski lift. It’s barely dawn, and six of us are driving up the snow-covered back road snaking up and out of the old mining town of Silverton. Our posse of skiers – all professional pilots – includes Bill and Carl from Jet Blue airlines, Kim and myself from US Airways, Bob from Delta, and finally Buck, our token civilian. Ages range from 30 to 62, and hometowns from Cleveland to Durango.

For those unfamiliar, Silverton Mountain is guided-only back country, in variable conditions, on nothing less than double black diamond, and hardcore hiking above 12,000 feet to get there.

Needless to say, I hope I’m not the only one feeling a bit of trepidation going into this. Nobody wants to be the goat, the one holding the group back, being in so far over your head you risk serious injury to yourself and others, or worse yet, utter humiliation.

There is no “resort” to be found here, but just a small parking lot jammed next to a creek, a beat up old ‘70s vintage house trailer used as a ski rack, and one lonely old secondhand ski lift heading straight up out of sight. We park, boot up, and take a small log bridge over the creek to some snow stairs and up to a dilapidated old yurt tent. Here the mayhem begins in earnest with about 80 skiers all crammed in trying fill out the obligatory liability release paperwork with frozen pens, stiff fingers, and no place to write.

The place exudes a calculated level of pride in projecting the laidback mountain-grunge image to its fullest. Way beyond “shabby chic,” it certainly lends an exclamation point to this whole antiresort experience.

We coagulate into groups of eight. We’re told to form up from left to right according to hiking skills. This is a key clue to what lay ahead since I would have naively expected to group according to skiing ability. Our group of six picks a spot just right of center, likely reflecting our political views more than our ability, and we are quickly joined by two dudes from Minnesota (that should move us to the left a bit, at least politically). Uh oh, would these Midwest flat-landers slow us down? I would soon be a first-hand witness (from behind) to the benefits of marathon training.

Our guide Troy walks up, gives us a quick once over, and claims us as his. We quickly go through the standard avalanche safety briefing with most questions involving the correct usage of the beacons. Once he’s answered all the stupid questions, tolerated the nervous jokes, and satisfied that we are all complete morons, we pair up ala the “buddy system” and head for the lift.

It’s too late to back out now, and thus we begin our slow ascent into an icy blue dawn sky. Breezes kick up from threatening pockets of ragged dark clouds churning around the surrounding peaks. A spectacular day is unfolding before us.

The mission at Silverton Mountain is to ride the lift 2,000 feet up a ridge to get just above the tree line at 12,000 feet. From there, you have some limited options to ski down; but most of the primo terrain involves continuing up said ridge by hiking anywhere from 20 minutes to God knows how long. Our longest

Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

was about 30 minutes, and although I saw groups going higher, I don’t think anybody in our group was pressing for more. The hiking was easily the most difficult part of the Silverton experience. I considered myself in fairly good condition, but the lung burn at those elevations is relentless.

We’re finally at the top of the lift, and even here on this remote pixel of Earth, pandemonium still seems to rule. Groups are huddling about waiting for their marching orders amidst the constant drone of helicopter blades. Our first hike is the second longest of the day. We head up the exposed ridge on a beaten snow path, carefully following each other’s footsteps for stability.

After about 20 minutes, Troy signals a stop and explains we’ll now click in and traverse to the right. We move on to gingerly traverse a wind-scoured rock field on our skis. Finally, standing atop a wide gully of untracked powder, Troy explains at length, as he would each and every time, exactly where to go and not to go. Beyond the obvious avalanche dangers, straying just slightly off course on this mountain, more often than not, results in either “cliffing out” or “gullying in.” Only when Troy is thoroughly convinced we’ll proceed with the Fear of God tattooed on our brains, are we ready for our first turns.

Off goes Troy and, one at a time, we follow. From a small rock outcropping, we drop into the wide parabolic gully filled with knee deep powder that funnels into some well-spaced trees below. The first turns on the unfamiliar boards are cautious, but it only takes a few before a silly grin lights up your face and like an epiphany, you suddenly get what all this reverse side cut and rocker stuff is all about. Just think “turn” and you’re already half way through it. The rather tightly spaced trees ahead get mentally wider as your confidence quickly escalates.

2,000+ vertical feet is gone in what seems a flash, and we’re all waiting on the side of the entrance road for a short ride back to the lift. Troy radios in, and a few minutes later an ancient old UPS delivery truck clatters up and makes a U-turn. We pile in amongst some old tires laying on the floor and hang on for our lives.

We make three more runs on the east face before lunch involving two shorter hikes and one right off the lift. Conditions generally range from hard wind-packed at the “Even though the hiking top, to a sweet spot in is the most difficult part of the Silverton experience, the middle, and slightly crusty and heavier stuff it is truly worth every step. at the bottom. At least The views, the terrain, the three of our runs culmiconditions, and the feeling nate in the same steep narrow gully that is of accomplishment all starting to form some increase proportionally crusty moguls that we with the elevation.” learn to dread. All of our runs on the east face end up in a creek bed that requires egress by a various combination of unsavory methods including stream crossing, side stepping, and skinning without skins up to a cat trail on the other side.

Troy polls the group: “hike or no hike?” Feeling a bit rejuvenated and no one wanting to sound like a wuss, we all heartily vote for hike, each silently wondering what degree of torture

was about to rain down. Paying the price for our false bravado, Troy suggests we go even higher this time so it’s time to hunker down and start kicking some steps. In all seriousness, even though the hiking is the most difficult part of the Silverton experience, it is truly worth every step. The views, the terrain, the conditions, and the feeling of accomplishment all increase proportionally with the elevation.

After seven runs, I thought our group rocked. Nobody had any issues, we all hung together well, Troy was the consummate pro, the Minnesotans were dudes, and there was no blood or broken body parts. I’m sure we only saw the easy to moderate offerings, but nothing was really all that hairy, and any upper-level skier could hack it. The hiking was sick, the gnar wasn’t bad, the skis were phat, and I got a trophy T-shirt to prove it!

Call it Looney Toons meets Warren Miller, but whatever you call it, we all decided early on this awesome experience deserves to be repeated on an annual basis.

RIGHT: John Fritzski provided these images of his adventure skiing Silverton Mountain with a group of friends.

Snapping & Stinging: Tendons are the seldom considered powerhouse of skiing

By Chris Grotefend Special to the Herald

There is plenty of fitness information about muscular endurance, strength and flexibility, but did you know that power has to do with how well you train your tendons?

Tendons are the attachment points between muscle and bone. We seldom hear about the necessity to keep our tendons healthy. They are composed of white fibrous tissue, and they are trainable for the speed of a nervous response – a reflex – that happens in what is called a Golgi Tendon Organ. When a force of extension comes on a tendon that is sufficient to cause the Golgi Tendon Organ to trigger, a powerful reflex occurs, causing the muscle to jerk back or contract. Did you ever check your reflexes with that little hammer below the knee cap? This is called the stretch reflex.

Skiers –good ones – utilize the stretch reflex to turn their skis efficiently and effectively. The stretch reflex, combined with excellent balance (core stability) is how great skiers make it look easy. At the initiation of a ski turn, the active muscles (calves, quads and glutes) are extending, and as they eccentrically load, those tendons stretch. The weight of the body in free fall compresses, the ski flexes on its edge and carves the turn. With practice, a skier can harness the power of the stretch reflex during a turn.

The tendons stretch, the Golgi Tendon Organ sends its signal and causes the muscles to quickly fire just as the turn is carved, and snap! (…and at the same time a “sting” with the pole plant) the skier is thrown into the next turn. Skiing is a snap! (and a sting).

The other piece of the puzzle is the coil spring. As the lower body is compressing into the turn, the upper body is opening

away from the direction that the skis are pointing, keeping the chest facing down the fall line. The spring is coiling. At the same time, the stretch-reflex is engaging (left turn) the right arm opens up and stings the pole plant. The combination of the snap and the sting allows the body to effortlessly come around and transition into the next turn. Muscles fatigue when a skier stays down and tries to use brute strength to strong-leg the skis into each turn.

If you can get yourself into a down-up-down rhythm, then most of the time is spent in a sort of free-fall or anti-gravity state where you spring off of the stretch-reflex for just a split second, then let the coil spring uncoil and bring you around the other way, free falling into the next stretch-reflex.

Here is how to improve your skiing by training the stretch reflex. Power = Strength + Speed. When you haven’t been specifically training for the speed of the stretch reflex, the tendon organ becomes sluggish. Remember when you were younger and you used to run and jump? But now it doesn’t feel as good to run and jump: It’s because you haven’t been playing. So just do it! Just like everything else, if you start slowly and gradually to build up your volume of work, the body will adapt. It has to. I like to get people started by jumping steps. Find a staircase. Do a little bunny hop up each step, both feet at a time. Then, using the hand railing, jump back down the steps backwards. As you progress, you can try to jump up two steps or three steps at once. You can also try to jump up the steps on one foot. Try not to pause as you jump.

Just go boing, boing, boing, right up. Practice this, and you will be teaching the kinetic chain (all of the muscles involved in turning a ski) to be a little quicker and more powerful. *** The Ski Fit classes taught at the Durango Sports Club are filled with sport-specific training techniques like this one, designed to address all aspects of fitness that you need to ski well. The early ski season is usually hard to get through, but these classes will have you in mid-season shape on your first day. Pre-Ski Fit classes have already begun. Ski Fit begins at The Durango Sports Club October 3, 2011, M-Th. at 5:30 p.m.

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cross country skiing

Herald file photo

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING EASY: Chicken Creek Cross Country Ski Area Quiet, uncrowded, friendly and community run, Chicken Creek Cross Country Ski Area is a volunteer-maintained and donation-funded Nordic area within the San Juan National Forest just minutes from Mancos. Enjoy over 25 kilometers of machine groomed classic and skate trails ranging from beginning to intermediate level. To find Chicken Creek Ski Area, travel north from Mancos on Hwy 184, turn east on County Road 40 and watch for the sign about 3 miles ahead. There is no charge, but your donation ensures Chicken Creek’s success.

Enjoy fantastic cross-country skiing - Mancos-style.

EASY: Haviland Lake 3-5 miles of ungroomed trails and roads. Directions: From Durango, go 17 miles north on Hwy 550. Turn right at Haviland Lake to plowed parking area. Commercial sleigh rides operate in this area - careful. Toilets at Haviland campground. Don’t drive past the gate.

INTERMEDIATE: Plumtaw Trail 21 miles of groomed trails. Directions: From Hwy 160 in Pagosa, turn east on Lewis St., then immediately north on 5th St., which becomes Fourmile Rd. (CR 400). Go 6.5 miles north to the end of a plowed road. Roadside parking only. Leave room for others to turn around. Do not block the gate or driveway to private property. Groomed by Wolf Creek Trail Blazers Club.

DIFFICULT: Echo Basin 30+ miles (sometimes 12 miles are groomed). Directions: From Mancos, go 2.5 miles east on Hwy 160 and turn north on CR 44.

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Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Racers compete in a skate skiing competition at The Nordic Center at Durango Mountain Resort. Hal Lott/Herald Go 3 miles to the Forest Service gate. Plowed parking lot. Access maintained by Four Corners Trail Club. Groomed by the San Juan Sledders Club.

DIFFICULT: Andrews Lake With seemingly endless options, this area is a gem. There are no groomed trails but year after year users create a network of trails to follow. Located just before Molas Pass on Hwy 550, look for a small parking lot on the east side of the highway.

c

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Snowdown

ABOVE: A colorful Snowdown spectator watches the Bed Races.

A team is on a roll during the Snowdown Bed Races.

ABOVE and BELOW: Actors do goofy skits during the Snowdown Follies.

A horse pulls a skier during the skijoring competition.

RIGHT: The Bed Race game continues.

ABOVE: Left, a costumed monster roams the streets.

Right: Flames light up the Snowdown Parade.

“Mad Scientist” Sarah Margoles conducts a dry ice demonstration at the Durango Discovery Museum.

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Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Snowdown

ABOVE: A float passes by the Strater Hotel as crowds cheer during the Snowdown Light Parade.

RIGHT: Local women dance during the Snowdown Follies, a popular variety show.

Photos by Hall Lott/Herald

Snowdown: The antidote to winter blahs Snowdown contains the essence of Durango: It has a variety of sports, entertainment and goofy high-altitude fun. The winter festival, now in its 34th year, always has a dress-up theme. This year it’s “Once Upon a Snowdown,” to be held Feb. 1-5. You’ll see knights, princesses, dragons and evil sorcerers roaming the streets. Annual events include an entertaining – and cold – evening light parade, waiter/waitress races, outhouse stuffing, dog

and cat dress-up contest, skijoring, hot-air balloons and the wildly popular Snowdown Follies, where locals try outdo each other with in-jokes, silly skits, dance and songs. Durango’s fantastic microbreweries and bars get into the spirit with pool, darts, trivia, joketelling and beard-growing contests. If that’s not enough wackiness for you, watch the Polar Beer Plunge, where brave souls jump into a vat of cold beer in the middle of winter.

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Snowmobiling

SNOWMOBILING & SNOWSHOEING

Photos.com

SNOWMOBILING Durango and the San Juan Mountains are a snowmobiler’s paradise. Various companies lead snowmobile tours and also rent snowmobiles for you to venture out on your own. Our area is also famous for its avalanche activity, so make sure to be prepared.

You can check out the Colorado Avalanche Information Center for the latest conditions. Also, please treat slower folks (on skis and snowshoes) with courtesy. For more information, visit www. godurango.com/winter/ snowmobiling.asp The San Juan Sledders Snowmobile Club of Durango maintains all five trails including Purgatory Ski Area Trailhead, Missionary Ridge Trailhead, Lemon Dam Trailhead, Vallecito Reservoir Trailhead, and Beaver Creek Meadows. The trails offer groomed trail riding, as well as meadow and mountain play areas.

EASY: Boggy Draw Over 30 miles of trails. Directions: Turn west off Hwy 145 in Dolores on 11th St. (CR 31). Climb hill and go 1.5 miles.

Turn right on CR W, go 1 mile to parking area on left side of road. Parking lot is plowed. Snow conditions are variable because of the lower elevation.

INTERMEDIATE: Fall Creek Trail Occasionally groomed 6.5 miles. Directions: From Pagosa Springs, go 19.3 miles northeast on Hwy 160. The trail is on the south side of the highway between the top and bottom of the pass about a mile below the Wolf Creek Trail. Look for the sign to Fall Creek Road. Higher avalanche danger here.

Groomed by Wolf Creek Trail Blazers Club. Some commercial snowmobile operations.

DIFFICULT: Molas Pass Twenty-three miles of groomed trails. Directions: From Durango, go north 40 miles on Hwy 550 to the top of Molas

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Pass. There is roadside parking at Andrews and Little Molas and plowed parking lots at Molas Pass and Molas Lake. Trails are groomed by the Silverton Snow- mobile Club. Commercial snowmobile and snow cat operations are in the area.

Restrooms at the parking areas.

SNOWSHOEING EASY: House Creek 5+ miles. Directions: Turn west off Hwy 145 in Dolores on 11th St. (CR 31). Climb hill and go 7 miles (CR 31 becomes FS #526). Look for signs to House Creek campground & FS #528.

There is roadside parking, but plowing can be sporadic. Snow conditions are variable because of the lower elevation. Follow directional signs.

INTERMEDIATE: Beaver Meadows 25+ miles of groomed trails. Directions: From Bayfield, go 7 miles east on Hwy 160. Turn north on FS road #135, go 2 miles. Roadside parking. There are two access points from Hwy 160. Groomed by the San Juan Sledders Club.

DIFFICULT: Wolf Creek Pass Hundreds of acres of ungroomed backcountry terrain.

Directions: From Pagosa Springs, go 23 miles northeast of Hwy 160 to the top of the pass. There is a plowed parking lot. Please comply with signs for voluntary use areas. Higher avalanche danger. Snowmobiles are prohibited in the adjacent Weminuche Wilderness.

DIFFICULT: Andrews Lake With seemingly endless options, this area is a real gem.

There are no groomed trails but year after year users create a network of trails to follow. Located just before Molas Pass on Hwy 550.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 29

Museums

Jake O’Nan admires the Good Time Clock at the Durango Discovery Museum. Inset photo: Edie Erwin displays her Alka-Seltzer powered bottle rocket before launch during Snowdown event at the museum. Hal Lott/Herald photos

Durango Discovery Museum The Durango Discovery Museum is Southwest Colorado’s hands-on, interactive science center for all ages. Open yearround, the museum is a dynamic new place for family adventure, school field trips, early childhood learning, special events, “hanging around by the river, messing around with amazing technology, and just plain “geeking out.” The Durango Discovery Museum is located at 12th Street and Camino del Rio in Durango. Parking is limited, but visitors can park at the Durango Transit Center or Santa Rita Park and take a nice stroll down the Animas River Trail right to the museum. Admission is $9.50, and children 2 and under are free. For museum hours or more information, visit www.durangodiscovery.org or call (970) 259-9234.

Animas Museum The Animas Museum is owned and operated by the La Plata County Historical Society, whose directors and staff have transformed the 1904 Animas City School building into a charming local history museum. The mission of the museum is to collect, preserve and interpret the history and culture of the San Juan Basin with a focus on La Plata County. The museum offers a variety of exhibits and programs for all ages, and is also home to our research library and photo archives. Two permanent exhibits include a 1908 restored classroom and the Joy Cabin, the oldest intact structure left in Durango. Animas Museum is located at 3065 West Second Ave., on the corner of 31st Street and West Second Avenue. Through October, it’s open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. From November through April, it’s open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 30 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is $4 for adults and $2 for children 7-12. Children 6 and under are free. For more information, call (970) 259-2402 or visit www.animasmuseum.org.

Center of Southwest Studies The Center of Southwest Studies at Fort Lewis College connects individuals and communities with opportunities to explore, study and experience the Southwest’s dynamic heritage. The center facilities include the Exhibition Gallery, an archival repository, a special collections library, the Office of Community Services and classrooms, labs and offices for the College’s Anthropology and Southwest Studies academic degree programs.

Exhibition Gallery exhibits rotate annually. The Center is adjacent to the Fort Lewis College Community Concert Hall at the north end of campus. Parking permits are required on campus, and there are also metered spaces available.

For more information, call (970) 247-7456 or visit swcenter.fortlewis.edu.

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum The D&SNG museum is a tribute to railroading nationally and in Southwest Colorado. The museum is located in the Durango roundhouse. Half the roundhouse is used for the steam engines and the other half is for the museum. The museum features memorabilia and artifacts from the Durango and Silverton areas. There is also a movie coach that was used in the filming of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid where the railroads informational and educational films are featured. The D&SNG museum is at the south end of the roundhouse in Durango. Admission is free. Visit www.durangotrain.com/dsng-museums.

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SPA TREATMENTS After thrills, time to chill After a busy day of winter sports – or perhaps a busy day of shopping – it’s time to relax. A day spa can be a great way to detox and de-stress from the hectic pace of life. For a small town, Durango has spas that offer a wide range of services.

Here’s some general information to consider in your search for Durango day spas. Day spa staff includes estheticians specializing in skin care and skin beautification services such as facials, exfoliation and anti-aging treatments. Most businesses classified as day spas also offer nail services such as manicures, pedicures and other hand and foot treatments. Many offer relaxation services like aromatherapy and varieties of massage, including classic Swedish massage, deep tissue massage or muscle therapy.

Some day spas offer body and health services too – such as body wraps, body immersion, mud baths or hydrotherapy. Day spas usually offer services individually, or in package deals with several services.

Check out the following sample of services offered at day spas 34 •

Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

in the Durango area: Hot Stone Massage: Water-heated, smooth basalt stones are used as massage tools to relieve chronic muscle tension and encourage deep relaxation. 60 minutes for $95. Trimble Hot Springs (970) 247-0212.

Eminence Body Wrap: Pear and green apple, chocolate mousse, cucumber mint, or blueberry soy. 60 minutes for $120.

The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs. (970) 264-7770.

Salt Glow: An invigorating body treatment with sea salt and essential oils to soften and renew the skin. $75. Signature Salon & Health Spa (970) 247-7769.

Soak and Sweat, Hot Tub: A salt-water hot tub, cold plunge and cedar sauna. Individual visits are $12. Amaya Natural Therapeutics (970) 247-3939.

Arctic Algae Herbal Body Masque: Detoxify and stimulate the skin with this active and rejuvenating treatment. $68. 6th Street Hair Salon & Day Spa. (970) 259-1220.

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The Gentlemen’s Facial: Sports activities, pollution and lifestyle can affect a man’s skin. This refreshing treatment will revitalize, clean, rebalance and hydrate the skin. Avabella Spa & Salon (970) 259-9311.

Detox Foot Bath Treatment: The ion cleanse pulls toxins out of your system. 30 minutes for $30. Spaaah Shop & Day Spa (970) 375-1866.

Natural Hot Springs in Southwest Colorado Trimble Spa and Natural Hot Springs Trimble Spa and Natural Hot Springs is Durango’s only hot springs, massage and lodging center. Trimble is open to the public year-round, and is located five miles north of Durango on U.S. Highway 550. Two saunas and naturally heated, mineralrich hot pools are therapeutic and relaxing. The source of hot water, volcanic in origin, comes from underneath the La Plata Mountains. Combine soaking with sauna and a selection of more than 20 massage and body treatments. Admission prices are $15 for adults, $9.50 for children (ages 5-12) and seniors over 62. Children 4 and under are free. (Prices are subject to change.) For visiting hours or more information, call (970) 247-0111 or visit www. trimblehotsprings.com.

The Springs Resort Bath House The mineral hot pools in Pagosa Springs are open to the public for soaking and relaxing in 23 different hot mineral pools and our new cool saltwater swimming pool and Jacuzzi pool.

Towels, robes and locker facilities are available to day visitors for a minimal rental fee. For centuries, visitors to Pagosa Hot Springs have touted the miraculous curative powers of these ancient waters. The first published testament to the healing benefits was written in 1890 by Dr. J. L. Weaver, a U.S. Army surgeon, following his experiences with several chronically ill soldiers brought to the spring for research study.

Verbal testimonies began with American Indian visitors from centuries past, and continues today as visitors from all over the globe journey to these 10,000-year-old waters seeking healing, relaxation and rejuvenation. A complete menu of massage and spa therapies, as well as hair, skin and nail salon services are available at The Healing Waters Spa & Salon. An organic health food cafe, boutique and sports shopping are also within the resort complex. General admission is $20 for adults, $17 for seniors and $12 for children (2-10). Children under 2 are free with each paying adult. For more information, call (970) 264-4168 or visit www.pagosahotsprings.com.

Ouray Hot Springs Pool Winter is a magical time to visit the Ouray 36 •

Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Hot Springs Pool. Ouray’s 250-by-150-foot public pool contains over a million gallons of crystal-clear natural hot springs water, free from the strong smell of sulfur typical of many hot springs.

In addition to several soaking sections at a variety of temperatures ranging from 96 to 106 degrees, the pool has a lap swimming section, a diving area, a large slide, a shallow section for younger children and a game area for water volleyball. The bathhouse at the pool has a full range of conveniences including showers, hair dryers, playpen and changing table for infants. On premises are the Ouray Swim & Snack House and Healing Touch Massage Therapy. Call (970) 325-0415 for therapy appointments. Daily rates for use of the pool are $12 for adults, $10 for seniors and $8 for children (ages 4-12). Call (970) 325-7073, or visit www.ourayhotsprings.com for specific information on hours of operation and dates when the pool is closed for maintenance.

Bathers soak in pools with varying temperatures at The Springs Resort Bath House in Pagosa Springs.

Photo courtesy of The Springs Resort Bath House

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Polar Express

magic

The chugs into a 7th year

By Karla Sluis Herald Magazine Editor

T Photos by Hal Lott/Herald

Children dressed in pajamas watch as the D&SNGRR Polar Express train (shown in top photo) pulls into the train station in 2010.

38 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

here’s one word that everyone uses when describing the Polar Express: magical.

“It was beyond a doubt the most magical thing I have ever done, especially watching the expressions on my grandkids’ faces,” said Debi Lorenz of Durango, who rode on the first Polar Express in 2005 and is planning a trip again this year.

Sherri Stange, a visitor from Southern California, took her 7- and 10-year-old grandchildren as a memorable Christmas gift last year. “It was magical,” she wrote via e-mail.

Carol House of Durango said each of her three trips on the Polar Express were with her grandchildren and their parents. “It was magical from the moment the train pulled up and the conductors with their tall chefs’ hats greeted us until Santa boarded at the North Pole,” she said.

The magic will continue for a seventh season in Durango this year.

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s Polar Express Train will run from Nov. 18 through Dec. 28. Last year, 17,000 people rode the specialty train, which includes reenactments of scenes from a popular children’s book by Chris Van Allsburg. Children are encour-

Children are bundled in official Polar Express pajamas and robes for the nighttime winter ride.

Steam billows into the air as passengers wait to board.

aged to dress in pajamas for the nighttime train, which is festooned with lights and holiday decorations. As the train chugs toward the “North Pole,” riders are entertained by dancing, singing “chefs,” who serve hot chocolate and cookies. The book is read aloud during the ride. All kids aboard the train receive a special surprise from Santa. On the way back from the North Pole, chefs lead the singing of Christmas carols. The mood on the return trip is swept-away jolly.

The magical label could come from the train itself. Durango’s steam engines are strikingly similar to the trains in both the book and the 2004 animated film with Tom Hanks. Even D&SNGRR Marketing Manager Andrea Seid says she gets caught up in the drama.

“When you’re on the platform and it’s dark, and everything is lit up, and the kids are so excited… I get teary-eyed every time,” she said. “It’s just so sweet.”

Seid said many people ride the train every year as a family tradition – locals and visitors alike. To attract these repeat visitors, each year D&SGNRR tries to improve the Polar Express and add something new.

This year, the train will stop and turn around at a new North Pole – the new railroad event park in the Animas Valley near the Glider Park.

In past years, the train has used the Iron Horse Inn and the United Campground as the turnaround location. The new park is owned by

the train and allows more space for lights and decorations in a large, open area. Also new for this year, there will be a few live reindeer. (Two adults were purchased, and a surprise baby reindeer came later.) Seid said they have never had to cancel the Polar Express because of weather.

Snow enhances the ride, she said. “It’s becomes more magical.”

The music and realistic reenactments also give the Polar Express a special effect. The book is read over the loudspeaker in the depot as passengers wait for the train. “It’s like you enter into the story before you even go out on the platform,” said Seid. The train conductor and the lead character, Billy, act out a scene from the book, and then the general boarding begins.

Jonathan Smith, a 13-year-old Mountain Middle School student, played Billy last year and plans to do it again this season. He volunteers his time for the special performances because he “loves, loves the train,” said his mom, Debbie Smith. “He used to run out the door to see it as a toddler. And he’s always loved Christmas, so to combine the two was a dream come true for him.”

Jonathan, who had some previous acting experience with Durango Lively Arts, said he was nervous at first to perform in front of so many people. Eventually, he learned to relax and enjoy himself.

“There’s nothing like it,” he said. “The magic is really alive.”

Continued on Page 40 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 39

Rich Millard as the conductor and Jonathan Smith as Billy perform a scene from the Polar Express story in 2010. Photos by Hal Lott/Herald

IF YOU GO

Polar Express trains leave at 5:15 p.m. and 6:50 p.m. from Nov. 18Dec. 28. Standard rates: adult $3145, child $21-35. Deluxe rates: adult $45-56, child $35-46. Premium rates: adult $61-66, child $51-56. (Special deal alert: If you book two tickets before Nov. 11, you will receive a free ticket for the Cascade Canyon Winter Train.) Polar Express tickets are non-refundable and change fees apply. Parking is available in the D&SNGRR parking lot on College Drive for $4 per vehicle.There is a Polar Express Gift Shop inside the train station that carries PJs, DVDs, blankets, mugs, teddy bears, music, the book and more. For more information, visit www.durangotrain. com/events/2011-polar-express or call 1-888-TRAIN-07.

Continued from Page 39

Jonathan loves to see the kids’ faces, and he gets rock star treatment from the little ones.

“There’s a small portion of time where I have to go back into the ticket office. The kids look at me and their eyes get huge,” he said.

“Some of them really believe I’m Billy, and we are really going to the North Pole.”

Jonathan’s gig has led to another volunteer position helping passengers board the train.

He’s a “huge local-history fanatic,” and says he enjoys sharing his knowledge with tourists.

“Durango couldn’t ask for a better ambassador,” said proud mom Debbie. When he turns 16, Jonathan wants to work for the train and earn money for college.

But for now, he’s thrilled to be that little boy Billy as long as he can. And that’s the final piece of the magical puzzle: The message of the book is to hold on to youthful innocence and wonder.

“It lets people be kids again – through their own kids or grandkids,” said Seid. “They can’t sit on Santa’s lap anymore, but this allows them to participate in something special. Sometimes people will ask me [in a shy voice], ‘Can I go even if I don’t bring children?’”

40 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

ABOVE: Shirley Gale as an elf draws a boy out of the crowd to dance before the train arrives.

LEFT: Smith as Billy is surprised by his Polar Express ticket.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 41

Winter Fishing

Winter Fishing in the Four Corners Photos.com

The Four Corners area offers some of the best public fishing in the nation. There are more than 80 different species of both warm- and cold-water fish in Colorado. From cutthroat trout to smallmouth bass, brook trout to crappie, they’re all here in our beautiful, scenic rivers, streams and lakes, including the largest wilderness area in the state, the Weminuche Wilderness. The world-famous San Juan River has been known to produce some incredible catches, too. Discover the joy of reeling in a rainbow trout or just relax next to one of the many reservoirs and lakes.

Durango is known as “dry-fly heaven” for all the fly fishing enthusiasts. Getting started in ice fishing is relatively easy. With just the basic equipment, newcomers to the sport can discover the joys of exploring the mysterious watery world beneath the ice. Don’t forget safety when testing fishing spots. Visit http://wildlife.state. co.us/SiteCollectionDocuments/DOW/Fishing/IceFishing/ IceFishingSafetySelf-Rescue.pdf for information on self-rescue instructions.

Fishing Season Dates From Jan. 1 through Dec. 31, the waters of Colorado are open to fishing, except as otherwise noted in their individual area’s regulations.

Fishing Licenses A fishing license is required for people 16 years of age and older. Children under the age of 16 and over the age of 64 are not required to have a fishing license. Fishing in Colorado without a license is only allowed on the first full weekend of June each year.

All other rules and regulations apply. For information on current fees, dates and individual fishing areas, visit www.wildlife.state. co.us/fishing for complete information.

The Colorado Division of Wildlife recommends the following equipment to get you started in ice fishing: • Ice auger – The manual type with a 6-inch blade is suitable for ice up to 20 inches thick and the hole is large enough to land nearly all species, and it is easy to transport.

• Rod & reel – Short rods are nice because they put you closer to your work, but some of the best ice fishers I know use ultra-light spinning rods.

• Fishing line – Keep it light, 4- to 6-pound test is good for everything but larger species such as northern pike and lake trout.

• Lures – Put together a small tackle box filled with a selection of small spoons, hooks, split shots, and small plastic jigs • Bait – For trout and yellow perch try meal-

worms, nightcrawlers, and prepared baits. For crappie, bass, and walleye, minnows cannot be beat.

• Ice scoop – For removing ice shavings from the hole and keeping the hole free of ice.

• Pliers – Needle-nose pliers will allow you to flip the fish of the hook without handling it, which is handy for releasing fish that you decide to release.

• Bucket – A five-gallon plastic bucket is an ice-fishers best friend. It serves as fishing chair, tackle box, rod carrier, lunch box, cooler, and creel, all in a virtually indestructible container that comes with a handle. The taller, sevengallon bucket is the deluxe model.

42 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Photos.com

ICE SKATING

Chapman Hill is a small, in-town ski and skate facility.

During the winter “ice season,” which runs from October through April 30, a refrigerated rink provides excellent ice skating. The pavilion has concessions and a sitting area with views and a fireplace. Weekday admission: 3 and under free; youth (4-17) $4; adult (18-59) $5; seniors (60 and up) $4. Weekend prices are $5 youth and $6 adult. Ice skate rentals are $3. Lessons are available.

Call 375-7395 or visit www.durangogov.org/chapman for more information.

Photos.com

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 43

Winter Safety

A Word on Winter Safety Welcome to winter in Southwest Colorado, a region where nearly anyone can enjoy our sunshine, outdoor activities and the warm, friendly people. Mountains, canyons, lakes, rivers and deserts are all within a day’s drive. But sometimes we enjoy ourselves so much that we forget to take a few simple precautions, resulting in time away from the fun.

The elevation in Colorado’s mountains can exceed 14,000 feet above sea level.

Air becomes thinner at higher elevations and contains less oxygen. Physical exertion, rapid ascents and descents, and poor physical condition can increase a person’s chance of experiencing altitude sickness. Symptoms include headache, nausea, diarrhea, vomiting and trouble sleeping. These symptoms typically occur after arrival and usually disappear around the fourth day. If symptoms worsen, linger, or you develop lung congestion and have A snowboarder enjoys a day at Durango Mountain Resort. Hal Lott/Herald trouble breathing, seek medical help immediately. In a small percentage of people, high altitude sickness can cause life-threatening pulmonary or cerebral edema, which must be treated by a physician.

Altitude sickness • Avoid alcohol, sleeping pills and narcotic pain medicine during your first few days at altitude.

• Drink plenty of fluids and eat a high carbohydrate diet to fuel up for those outdoor sports.

• Get extra rest and limit your activity the first few days.

• Spend an extra day and night at 5,000 feet before attempting activities at higher elevations.

Sun exposure • Even though it’s winter, wear sunglasses, lip balm and a hat to avoid sun exposure. Always apply plenty of sunscreen and reapply throughout the day.

Here are some facts about the ultraviolet rays of the winter sun: • Higher elevation levels expose you to 50 percent more UV radiation.

• Fresh snow reflects up to 90 percent of the sun’s dangerous UV rays.

• Up to 80 percent of UV radiation from the sun can pass through the clouds. UV radiation is even present on cloudy days.

• UV exposure increases 5 percent every 1,000 feet above sea level.

Source: www.gosunsmart.org

44 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Winter driving From equipping your vehicle for the worse-case scenario to navigating through difficult weather conditions, AAA Colorado has important information you will need to make your winter driving as uneventful as possible. One brochure, among others, “How to Go on Ice and Snow” is available in print or online in PDF format by visiting www.aaacolorado.com. Here are a few driving tips to minimize your risk on the road: • Steer around an obstacle rather than braking, if possible.

In winter weather, sudden braking can put you into a skid.

• Do not rely on cruise control.

• Control speed and avoid hard braking and sharp turns to reduce your risk of hydroplaning or sliding on ice.

• Increase your following distance. Focus your attention as far ahead as possible – at least 20 to 30 seconds.

• If you get stuck, and you are driving a vehicle with manual transmission, rock your way out by using second gear.

• If you get stuck, and you are driving a vehicle with an automatic transmission, use low gear. Move forward until the vehicle stops, then shift into reverse and move backwards until momentum stops. Repeat this process \ using minimum power to prevent wheels from spinning and digging in deeper.

• If necessary, create traction by using mats, gravel, or kitty litter.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 45

bey0nd durango

Photos by Hal Lott/Herald

Luminarias light the path to Spruce Tree House at Mesa Verde during the Holiday Open House.This year, the event will be held on Dec. 8. Carolers, American Indian performers and light refreshments inspire the holiday spirit.

This event is free.

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Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Bayfield Situated in the Pine River Valley 20 miles east of Durango and about 45 minutes north of the New Mexico border, Bayfield is a pleasant, four-season town of about 1,700 residents. The town is adjacent to two million acres of San Juan National Forest, and draws fly-fishing enthusiasts, horseback riders and people who want a real Colorado vacation.

The earliest residents of the valley were Ute Indians. It wasn’t until the late 1800s that the region was settled by non-Indians. The first herd of cattle was brought to the area in 1875 and the valley was further settled as ranchers discovered the fertile soil. The town was named after William A. Bay, who created a vision for the town in 1898 and later helped establish it in 1906. Agriculture is still a way of life for many Bayfield residents. In the spring and fall, visitors may be surprised and delighted to find themselves in a “lamb jam,” because herders use nearby highways to move livestock to seasonal pastures.

Bayfield is downstream from Lake Vallecito, a beautiful body of water nestled among pine trees. With boating, fishing, hiking, snowmobiling and cross-country skiing, this magnificent lake is a haven for those who love the outdoors. Lodging includes cabins, dude ranches, guest ranches, RV parks and motels.

For more information, call the Bayfield Chamber of Commerce at (970) 884-7372 or visit www.bayfieldchamber.org.

Cortez is located between the San Juan Mountains to the east and the desert of the Four Corners region to the west. A small town with a colorful history, Cortez was built as a staging area for workers building tunnels and irrigation ditches into the Montezuma Valley.

Cortez is located in the middle of the most archaeologically dense region of the country. Thousands of Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) sites have been found in the area, including the worldfamous ruins at Mesa Verde. Mesa Verde is a national park and a UNESCO World Heritage site known for a number of cliff dwellings. The park offers hikes, scenic drives, and guided tours through some of the ruins. Also nearby is the Hovenweep National Monument, on both sides of the Colorado/Utah border, with six clusters of ruins. The Canyons of the Ancients surrounds much of Hovenweep and houses over 6,000 individual archaeological sites.

For more information on winter events and activities, contact the Cortez Chamber of Commerce at (970) 565-3414 or visit www. cortezchamber.com.

cortez Special Events in Cortez Oct. 29: Pumpkin Festival Games, food, crafts, pumpkin painting and contests. Cortez Cultural Center. (970) 565-1151.

Nov. 26: Christmas Craft Fair Over 50 local artisans present handcrafted wares at Cortez Cultural Center. Call (970) 565-1151.

Dec. 1: Taste of the Seasons Four Seasons Greenhouse & Nursery hosts the Taste of the Seasons; wine tasting with food from area restaurants and silent auction to benefit United Way of Montezuma County. Call (970) 565-8274.

Cortez Cultural Center Housed in a 1909 historic building, the Cortez Cultural Center contains a wealth of information on archaeology and American Indian culture. The center, founded in 1987, is a nonprofit organization with a mission to provide educational, cultural and artistic programs for members and the public. The center’s museum features interpretive exhibits on the Basketmaker and Pueblo periods of the Ancestral Pueblo people. Traveling exhibits and local artists’ work is featured in the art gallery. A mural on the back of the building depicts a traditional pueblo. Lectures, slide shows and music programs are offered through May. Cortez Cultural Center is located in Cortez at 25 N. Market (one block off Main Street). It’s open year-round from Monday to Saturday. Volunteers are available to answer questions and make visitors feel at home.

There is no fee for visiting the museum or attending the dances and cultural programs, but donations are accepted. For more information, call (970) 565-1151 or visit www.cortezculturalcenter.org.

Dolores With the Dolores River running through town and mountains on both sides of the valley, Dolores is one of the unique vacation spots in Colorado. There is spectacular scenery and mile after mile of the San Juan National Forest filled with elk and mule deer.

Dolores was a railroad town for 60 years and had a major Rio Grande Southern station between Durango and Ridgway. There is a replica of Dolores’ original train depot standing on Railroad Avenue today, a Victorian-style structure that now houses the Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and the Dolores Visitors Center.

The town of Dolores is along the San Juan Skyway, a state and federally designated scenic highway that has been called “America’s Most Beautiful Drive.” The 236-mile loop will take you over and around the spectacular San Juan Mountains and through the historic mining towns of Telluride, Ouray, Silverton and Durango.

Ridgway, Mancos and Cortez are also along the way.

Dolores Special Events Dec. 3: Christmas Tree Lighting and Bonfire at Town Hall Free candy, cookies and hot chocolate and a library bedtime story with Santa. Contact the Dolores Chamber at (970) 882-4018.

Dec. 3: Christmas Bazaar Event held at Dolores Community Center. Contact Ruby at (970) 882-7717.

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011

• 47

A view from Mancos shows a sunset glowing above snow at Mesa Verde. Photo courtesy of Jim Law/ Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce

Mancos

The Mancos Valley continues its 140-year ranching tradition at the edge of the San Juan National Forest at the base of the La Plata Mountains. Cattle drives, wagon and horseback rides are common in and around town. Fans of Louis L’Amour can explore the countryside where the author lived and wrote many of his books.

The Town of Mancos – Gateway to Mesa Verde – has always been a jumping off point for tourists to the famed cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde National Park. In recent years Mancos has also developed as an arts community: Its small downtown is energized with galleries and a community art studio.

The area offers a variety of accommodations. Choose from motels in town to country cabins, B&Bs, dude ranches, or even a yurt at Mancos State Park.

For more information contact the Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce at (970) 533-7434 or visit www.mancosvalley.com.

Mancos Special Events December 2-10: Mancos Old Fashioned Christmas Welcome the winter season with a gathering of friends around the annual Christmas tree lighting ceremony. Greet Santa’s arrival on Grand Ave. Visit the galleries and shops that are open for extended hours. There are many activities planned for family fun: “The Giving Tree,” the 5K Rudolph Run, town dinner, and community band performance. You definitely don’t want to miss the Mancos Valley Chorus performances.

February 11-19: The La Plata Paw The Mancos Valley goes to the dogs with dog sled races, skijoring and other family fun events. The La Plata Paw event will begin on Feb. 11 with a demonstration on how to teach a dog to pull a dog sled. Then on Saturday and Sunday, Feb.18 and 19, the dog sled races begin. For more information, contact the Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce at (970) 533-7434 or visit www. mancosvalley.com.

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Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Winter Is…………skiing, snow shoeing, sledding and tubing.

Chicken Creek Nordic is right in our back yard. Volunteers groom the trails with the Mancos Recreation Committee. 5.6 miles of double track and skate lanes plus 5.1 miles of single track in various loops and spurs offer a variety of choices for all levels of skiers. The area offers beautiful views of the Mancos Valley, La Plata Mountains and Mesa Verde National Park. Rating: All levels from novice to advanced.

Mesa Verde One hundred and four years ago, Mesa Verde was the first national park set aside to preserve the works of humankind. Mesa Verde, which means “green table” in Spanish, was established to protect sites built by Ancestral Puebloans. Elaborate stone villages and collective communities were occupied from 600 A.D. to 1300 A.D. There are over 4,000 known archaeological sites in Mesa Verde, 600 of which are cliff dwellings.

During the winter, none of the roads within the park are plowed except for the entrance road to the Visitor Center, so everything else is open to cross-country skis. This is one of the best ways to see the sites. There are also places to ski in Morefield Campground or the scenic 6-mile trail along Ruin Road’s Balcony House Loop.

Fall and winter in Southwest Colorado is very unpredictable, so tours may not be available; but the Archaeological Museum and the Spruce Tree House are open all year. If you’re coming during the fall or winter, it is advised that you call the park first to check out what’s open in specific weather conditions.

The entrance to Mesa Verde is 35 miles west of Durango on U.S. Highway 160. Call (970) 529-4465 or visit www.nps.gov/meve for more information.

Dec. 8: Holiday Open House Visitors are welcome at the Holiday Open House on Dec. 8 beginning at 4 p.m. at Mesa Verde. Beautiful luminarias give Spruce Tree House a golden glow. Carolers, American Indian performers and light refreshments inspire the holiday spirit. This event is free, and the park will waive the entry fee. Call (970) 529-4465 for information.

IGNACIO

Ignacio is a ranching community in the southwest corner of Colorado, in a long valley bordered by the La Plata Mountains. Today Ignacio supplies the adjacent Southern Ute Indian Reservation and ranches scattered throughout this remote area. The town is also a crossroads for the gas and oil industry The community’s mix of ethnicities – Southern Utes, Hispanics and Anglos – makes it a fascinating and unique part of Colorado.

In 1899, land in the eastern portion of the reservation was made available to non-Native Americans. At this time, the Hall brothers were running the trading post and post office. This and the narrow-gauge rail station to the south were all that existed in the way of a town. Hans Aspaas purchased the trading post in A teepee is one of the interactive exhibits inside the Southern 1908. At the same time, the Ute wife of Civil War veteran John Ute Cultural Center Museum in Ignacio. Hal Lott/Herald Taylor died, and the 169-acre allotment that he inherited was immediately sold to the Halls. In June of 1910, both the Hall 52,000-square-foot facility is within walking distance of the Sky and the Aspaas lands were filed with the La Plata County Clerk, and Ute Casino Resort & Four Corners Hotel. The building’s iconic in 1913 Ignacio was incorporated. shape was inspired by the Southern Ute’s recognition of the circle Igancio is also home to Ignacio Bike Week, the Four Corners of life that connects past, present and future generations. Its setting Motorcycle Rally held every Labor Day weekend. An art commu- features a formal meadow for gathering with an outdoor kitchen, nity is developing in Ignacio, with a new gallery and several colorful meandering stream and native trees and grasses. There are 8 murals painted on businesses and walls facing Goddard Avenue. acres of landscaped grounds, including a horse corral. Inside, the Permanent Gallery is rich with interactive exhibits. Dozens of oral Sky Ute Casino Resort histories have been recorded by tribal members, and stump seating The Sky Ute Casino Resort opened in 2008, providing a place in a listening circle evokes the magic of storytelling. Children will to enjoy gaming as well as access to the history and culture of the be delighted to crawl inside a giant buffalo-hide teepee and sit Southern Ute Indian Tribe. The casino has a 45,000-square-foot on a life-size rodeo horse replica. They will also enjoy designing gaming floor that includes slots, poker, blackjack, craps, roulette their own petroglyphs, weaving beads, designing a moccasin or and bingo. The resort also has lodging, five unique restaurants and binding an arrowhead. Humidity-controlled glass cases will have the Rolling Thunder Lanes bowling alley. The casino is open 24 ancient artifacts that have never been seen before. The Southern hours a day. For more information, call (970) 563-7777 or visit Ute Cultural Center & Museum will be open Tuesday through www.skyutecasino.com.

Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and closed on Sundays and Mondays. The center is located on Hwy Southern Ute Cultural Center & Museum 172 at County Road 517, 25 miles southeast of Durango. AdmisThe Southern Ute (say “yoot”) Cultural Center & Museum rises sion is $7, ages 3-14 are $3, and children under 3 are free. For up from a flat, piñon-dotted mesa with few multi-story buildings. more information, visit www.southernutemuseum.org or call (970) Located in Ignacio, about 30 minutes southeast of Durango, the 563-9583.

Dogs pull hard in the La Plata Paw, a February mushing event in Mancos.

Photo courtesy of FeVa Fotos/ Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 49

A welcome panel introduces visitors to the Ute language at the Southern Ute Cultural Center & Museum in Ignacio. Hal Lott/Herald

50 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Ouray Situated in a river valley at 7,792 feet in the heart of the Rocky Mountains lies the mountain town of Ouray, nicknamed “the Switzerland of America.” Ouray officially began in 1876 as a mining town. Today, modern visitors admire Ouray’s majestic peaks, cascading waterfalls, natural hot springs, the Million Dollar Highway, Ouray Ice Park and the town’s reputation for being the Jeep Capital of the World. Take a step back in time and experience this unique landscape. Enjoy the Victorian architecture, friendly mountain people, and a peaceful atmosphere that runs on its own time.

Prior to the arrival of the miners, the Tabequache Indians, a nomadic band, traveled to this setting in the summer months to hunt game and to soak in what they called “sacred miracle waters.” In 1873, the famous Ute Chief, Ouray, reluctantly signed a government treaty releasing the Ute’s treasured San Juan Mountains to encroaching settlers. Chief Ouray was instrumental in keeping peace between the Ute Indians and the many settlers. The town was named in his honor.

Although Ouray is best known for the Ouray Ice Festival, there are many winter activities to enjoy including backcountry skiing, cross country skiing, ice skating, sledding and snowmobiling.

Ouray Special Events Dec. 31: New Year’s Eve Fireworks Awesome, loud and powerful! For information on Christmas 2010 events, visit www.ouraycolorado.com.

Jan. 5-8: 17th Annual Ouray Ice Festival A premiere ice climbing event that is internationally known as leader of the pack. It’s an open competition with qualifying rounds and finals. visit www.ourayicefestival.com for more information.

Jan. 14-28: Chicks with Picks Ice climbing clinics and competitions are open to women of all abilities, from beginners to more advanced climbers. Visit www.ourayicefestival.com and www.chickswithpicks.net for information.

A climber ascends an icy cliff during the Ouray Ice Festival, an annual event held in January.

Herald file photo

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 51

Pagosa Peak is covered with fresh snow. Photo courtesy of Pagosa Springs Area Chamber of Commerce

Pagosa Springs Pagosa Springs is located in the Colorado Sunbelt, just 35 miles north of the New Mexico border and along the Western slope of the Continental Divide.

The combination of high desert plateau and Rocky Mountains to the north and east of town creates an unusually mild climate.

Pagosa Springs is located in the upper San Juan Basin, surrounded by the 3-million-acre San Juan Forest and adjacent to the largest contiguous wilderness area in the nation, the Weminuche Wilderness.

The town is a mix of Southwest and Western cultures. Pagosa Springs is the county seat of Archuleta County with a town population of 1,591 and county-wide population of 12,386. The town derives its name from the Ute Indian name “Pagosah,” which means “healing” or “boiling waters.” The Ute Indians discovered the healing powers of the hot springs. A few centuries later, the town still welcomes travelers seeking a soaking respite in the mineral water.

Special Events in Pagosa Springs Dec. 2: Parade of Stores Two shopping days of “no sales tax” sales throughout Pagosa stores. For more information, call (970) 264-2360.

52 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Feb. 17-19: WinterFest Three days of events over President’s Day weekend, ranging from the crazy “Anything Goes” Downhill Sled Race, Nordic Ski Races, Nordic Disc Golf Competition, Rail Jam featuring amateur and professional skiers and snowboarders, the Penguin Plunge into the San Juan River, Ski Races at Wolf Creek and more. For more information, call the Pagosa Springs Chamber of Commerce at (970) 264-2360.

February 25-26: Pagosa Paw Dog sled and canine skijoring races March 3: Pagosa Springs Quad Challenge 10K skate ski or 5K classic ski, 5K run, 20K bike and 1K swim Other FREE winter activities • Moonrise/sunset soup & chili cross-country ski socials • Cross-country ski clinics • Dog harness training clinic

Swimmers brave icy cold water duing the Penguin Plunge into the San Juan River during Pagosa Spring’s Winterfest celebration.

Photo courtesy of Pagosa Springs Area Chamber of Commerce

2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 53

The Mother Spring at The Springs Resort & Spa is the deepest in the world at 1,002 feet. Photo courtesy Jennifer B. Marshall

Pagosa earns Guinness record

By Jennifer Marshall Special to the Herald

It’s official: The Springs Resort & Spa in Pagosa Springs has the deepest geothermal hot spring in the world.

The Springs will be part of the bestselling copyrighted book series and records after they set a Guinness World Record on Aug. 20.

The Mother Spring has been measured at a remarkable 1,002 feet in depth. It feeds mineral water to 23 soaking pools at The Springs Resort, and it’s approximately 144 degrees.

The springs draw their name from the Native American term “pag osah,” which is said to mean healing waters.

The Springs Resort & Spa hosts more than 150,000 visitors annually.

“We are proud to be a part of this

54 •

historic moment in Pagosa’s story,” said resort Owner Keely Whittington. “It’s an honor to make the record books with this award. We encourage everyone to come write their own chapter at the Springs Resort.”

“The Guinness World Records recognition gives all of us great satisfaction,” says R.D. Whittington, director of sales.

Thanks to Sir Hugh Beaver, we have the Guinness World Records book, the ultimate authority on record-breaking achievements. We can now verify what we have long believed to be true – that our springs are the deepest (and most relaxing) in the world. The Springs Resort and Spa now holds this important world distinction thanks to the Guinness World Records, and a plumb line.”

“Pagosa Springs sets many records

Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

in my opinion, including the most beautiful hunting, fishing, skiing and relaxing in the West,” says Pagosa Springs Mayor Ross Aragon. “The icing on the cake is to have achieved this world record.”

For centuries, visitors to the Pagosa hot springs have touted the miraculous curative powers of these ancient waters.

The first published testament of the healing benefits was written in 1890 by Dr. J.L. Weaver, U.S. Army surgeon, following his experiences with several chronically ill soldiers brought to the spring for research study. Verbal testimonies began with Native American visitors from centuries past and continue today as visitors from all over the globe journey to these waters seeking healing, relaxation and rejuvenation.

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2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 55

Snow blankets the town of Silverton at 9,308 feet in elevation. Photo by Hal Lott/Herald photos

Silverton Once the stomping ground of silver kings and railroad giants, Silverton survives today as one of Colorado’s most endearing destinations. The Silverton district opened legally to miners in 1874, following the Brunot Treaty with the Utes. An estimated 2,000 men moved into the region that year. They came from across the U.S., many parts of Europe and even China, to endure severe winters and dangerous mining conditions in their pursuit of the minerals they hoped would make them rich. Today, Silverton is a quiet, high-altitude town surrounded by breathtaking peaks of the San Juan Mountains. Located on the upper Animas River, the sturdy town has retained its original Western character of wide streets and historical Victorian buildings. There is only one paved road, and the entire town of Silverton has been designated a National Historic District by the U.S. Department of the Interior. For more information, contact the Silverton Chamber of Commerce at (970) 387-5654 or visit www.silvertoncolorado.com.

Silverton Events Calendar Dec. 4: Town Tree Trimming Silverton students decorate the town Christmas tree with homemade ornaments. www.SilvertonEvents.com or call (970) 769-2259.

RIGHT: The San Juan County Courthouse is an example of some of the distinctive architecture in Silverton.

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Dec. 4: Yule Log Celebration & Sugar Plum Festival Children are invited to the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area to search for the Yule Log and all the treasures that lead to it. The child who finds the Yule Log receives a ride back down the hill to light the ceremonial fire. A caroling parade will then continue into the Community Center and receive treats from the Sugar Plum Fairy. Families are asked to bring a holiday dessert to share. For information, call (970) 769-2259 or visit www.SilvertonEvents. com.

Dec. 11: Holiday Bazaar Local craftsmen and artists sell their holiday merchandise at the American Legion Hall.

Dec. 24: Santa Comes to Town, courtesy of the Silverton Fire Department Greet Santa at the Town Tree for those last minute Christmas requests – a Silverton tradition.

Jan. 22–24 and Jan. 29-31: Silverton Avalanche School Level I course. For information, call (970) 799-3406 or visit www.

AvySchool.com.

February 10-12 (tentative): Snowscape Winter Festival Come experience Silverton’s biggest event of the winter. Activities include the parade of lights and ceremonial bonfire, cardboard sledding derby, snowshoe races, Yukigassen snow battle, Horseshoe Tournament, ski and snowboard compet itions, Snow Golf Tournament, and Silverton’s Alley Challenge Cross Country Ski Race. Visit www.SilvertonEvents.com or call (970) 903-5647.

RIGHT: Kendall Mountain rises behind Silverton City Hall.

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l Ski l Snowboard l Sled l Ice Skate l Snowshoe ... and a warm lodge with views of it all!

l Lift Tickets only $10/day (age 6 - 18) $15/day (age 19-64) l Cross Country, Snowshoes, Sleds and Ice Skates Available Locally 1 Kendall Place(14th (14thStreet) Street) 1 Kendall Place l Enjoy Hot Drinks and Snacks in the Viewing Lodge Silverton, CO 81433 l Perfect for Weddings, Retreats and Conferences www.SkiKendall.com l Hours: Friday – Sunday 11am - 4pm 970-387-0182 970-387-5228 l Dec. 16 - Jan. 2 – Special Holiday Hours, Open 7 days a week *Closed Christmas Day 58 • Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

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vallecito In a secluded mountain valley 8,000 feet above sea level, Vallecito Lake is one of the largest and most beautiful bodies of water in Colorado. Vallecito, Spanish for “Little Valley,” and ancestral home to many of Colorado’s Ute Indians, became the name of the sparkling waters of the lake it surrounded.

Located in the southwestern part of the state just 25 miles from Durango, Vallecito provides a perfect base for enjoying the Four Corners area and its many wonders.

With 12 miles of shoreline, Vallecito sits in the heart of the unspoiled San Juan National Forest and offers a variety of accommodations and recreational opportunities. More than 2,700 surface acres of water and 22 miles of shoreline provide ample opportunities for winter sports. Vallecito is a great location for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, ice fishing and snowmobiling. After a day in the snow, take time to enjoy one of Vallecito’s many restaurants, which are open during the winter.

For more information, contact the Vallecito Lake Chamber of Commerce at (970) 247-1573 or visit www.vallecitolakechamber.com.

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Sunday, October 9, 2011 • 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide

Hal Lott/Herald

Events Calendar December 17-18 Christmas in Vallecito Contact Char Schank 970-884-0999

February 25 3rd Annual Ice Fishing Tournament Contact Steve Vayre (970) 759-8009

Paul Black of B&B Party Rental, drives a carriage during the Vallecito Christmas Community Celebration.

Our New Mexico neighbors FARMINGTON/aztec San Juan Symphony

This regional orchestra unites the Four Corners area by nurturing the art of music through education and high quality performances that touch the soul. There are two shows during the winter season: Nov. 19-20 is “Community,” with the Durango Choral Society, Caliente, and the annual Side-by-Side with music students; and on Feb. 19, “Laughter” will be celebrated with emerging conductor Oriol Sans from Barcelona and young cellist Katherine Audas. For more information, visit www.sanjuansymphony.org or call (505) 564-3600.

Farmington Museum The Farmington Museum at Gateway Park is located on Main Street in the center of town and is also host to the Farmington Convention & Visitor’s Bureau. The facility hosts two permanent exhibits: “From Dinosaurs to Drill Bits” and “A Farming Town Grows Up.” The museum hosts a wide variety of indoor and outdoor events throughout the year as well as “Currents,” the museum store. For information, call (505) 599-1174 or visit www. farmingtonmuseum.org The E³ Children’s Museum & Science Center The museum hosts performances by entertainers and new exhibits are added regularly. Families will find many things to do and learn. For information visit www.farmingtonmuseum.org or call (505) 599-1174.

The Riverside Nature Center Because of its proximity to the Animas River within the wooded Animas Park, the center and its wetlands are filled with abundant wildlife. Programs and events are hosted by knowledgeable staff and volunteers. For information, visit www.farmingtonmuseum.org or call (505) 599-1174.

Sunray Park & Casino The park features horse racing in the spring, simulcast theater, video machines, 500+ slots and SunRay Sports Bar & Grill. For more information, visit www.sunraygaming.com or call (505) 566-1200.

FARMINGTON EVENTS CALENDAR

October 14-15 Four Corners Storytelling Festival Slow down the pace, kick back, and listen to traditional tales of the Navajo, Hispanic stories, some great cowboy poetry, and a few tall tales, as told by some of the very best national and local storytellers. Look for the festival tents at River Reach Terrace in Berg Park, 400 Scott Ave., in Farmington. This magical event continues at the historic Totah Theatre in downtown Farmington.

November 11 & December 9 Crownpoint Rug Auction 300-400 handwoven Navajo rugs are auctioned off each month; sponsored by Crownpoint Rug Weavers Association. Rug viewing runs from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Auction begins at 7 p.m. Crownpoint Elementary School, 72 miles south of Farmington on Hwy. 371.

For information, visit www.crownpointrugauction.com or call (505)786-5302.

November 25-26 The 26th Annual Championship Bullriding Extraordinaire This bull riding spectacular is an annual event held at McGee Park, between Farmington and Bloomfield on Hwy. 64, behind SunRay Park & Casino. For information, visit www.casperbacarodeo.com or call (505) 287-9534. continued

Soprano Gemma Kavanagh performs Carmina Burana with the San Juan Symphony, the Durango Choral Society and Caliente last April. Photo courtesy of Kathy Myrick 2011 Southwest Colorado Winter Guide • Sunday, October 9, 2011

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November 26-December 31 The 13th Annual Fantasy of Lights Holiday Show Sculptures featuring a winter wonderland of gingerbread children, holiday ice skates and the Grinch light up Riverside Park in Aztec. Come drive or take a carriage ride through the displays. The park opens to the public at 6 p.m. nightly. For information, call (505) 334-9551 or visit www.aztecfantasyoflights.com December 3 Salmon Ruins Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair There will be something for everyone, as Salmon Ruins brings some of the best artisans from throughout the Four Corners to McGee Park to display and sell their wares. McGee Park is located off Hwy. 64, between Farmington and Bloomfield. For more information call (505) 632-2013.

December 11 Moscow Ballet’s Great Russian Nutcracker Escape into the serene beauty of this amazing performance of a holiday favorite. Performance will be held at the Farmington Civic Center at 3 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. For information call (505) 599-1148.

December 23 Live Navajo Nativity From 6 to 8 p.m., drive through Navajo Ministries Live Navajo Nativity at the Four Corners Home for Children, 2102 W. Main St. in Farmington. The Nativity features traditional Navajo clothing, live animals and the children of the Four Corners Home for Children, whom have enacted the Nativity Scene since 1984. This event has become a popular event for locals and visitors, and it is an endearing experience. For information, call (505) 325-0255 or visit www.navajoministries.org.

LEFT: Maestro Arthur Post is in his 10th season as music director of the San Juan Symphony. Photo courtesy of Kathy Myrick

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