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ON DISPLAY
L THAT ALL GLITTERS Opulence and fantasy in art and adornment
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inimalism has its virtues, but this season’s designers of fine jewelry are having none of that, t ur ning heads in a par ticularly artful way. How else to describe such byzantine embellishments as seen from the likes of Graff, Damiani and others? While diamonds may be forever, so is art, and each draws inspiration from the other. Consider the complex dreamscapes of Kashmir-bred, Londonbased artist Raqib Shaw, whose vibrant paintings, drawings and sculptures are speckled with glitter,
In a season flush with statement jewelry, Dutch photography and art duo–turned-designers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have chosen instead to downplay decoration. The pair’s latest jewelry collection—a capsule collaboration with cult jewelry brand Ten Thousand Things—is distinctly delicate, incorporating stones like turquoise, black Tahitian pearl and rubies into graceful rings, bangles, necklaces and earrings. And though the pieces may be understated in design, they are rich in sentiment: The interlocking circles were conceived by Matadin to represent the duo’s union in marriage.—B.B.
crystals and semi-precious stones. Though the otherworldly scenes he creates are massive in both size and concept, they are also highly deliberate: Shaw often paints with porcupine quills for precision. Through January, Pace Gallery in New York will host Shaw’s “Paradise Lost,” an exhibition inspired by John Milton’s fall-of-man theme. Featuring new pieces best described as grand—including an eightfoot sculpture inspired by Shaw’s bonsai collection— the show is a glittering homage to man, beast and the power of embellishment.—KRISTA SORIANO
Clockwise from top left: Greek Lion bangle, $19,500, DAVID WEBB, 212-421-3030. Marquise chandelier earrings, price upon request, GRAFF, 212-355-9292. Fancy Intense ring, price upon request, CORA, 888-971-2672. Dorotea Masterpiece earrings, price upon request, DAMIANI, 212-760-2790. Aberdeen ring, $4,900, IVANKA TRUMP FINE JEWELRY, 888-756-9912. Oiseaux de Paradis necklace, price upon request, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, vancleefarpels.com.
Bangle in 18-karat rose gold with diamond pave, $6,745; Ring in silver with Tahitian pearl, $450, INEZ AND VINOODH VINOODH, prettymucheverything.com.
In Lady Gaga’s video “Applause,” directed by Inez and Vinoodh, the singer wore what Inez calls a “glove-kini,” made of fabric cutout hands.
IMAGE FROM RAQIB SHAW, PARADISE LOST, 2011: CHRISTINE BLACKBURNE; JEWELRY: COURTESY; INEZ AND VINOODH: COURTESY
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GOING AGAINST THE GEM