Bordeaux: In the Press (2023)

Sustainability

May 5, 2023

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Bordeaux travel for gourmands: Try a French twist on dim sum, have the best canelés, and yes, sip world-famous wine

Kate Dingwall

The first thing many people do when they get to Bordeaux, France, is leave it. Who can blame them? The city is at the centre of a world-famous wine region, so most travellers just drop their bags and head to Haut-Médoc, Graves or Sauternes.

But on your next visit, save time to spend in the city itself. Thanks to a wealth of new restaurants, bars and cultural experiences (plus a high-speed train that can whisk you from Paris to Bordeaux in just two hours), the wine capital of France is more alive and intoxicating than ever, as I learned on my latest trip.

Summer is an especially enjoyable time to visit, with the Bordeaux Fête le Vin taking place this year from June 22 to 25 on the banks of the Garonne (and other pre-festival events happening across the city in the same month). Here’s what to add to your future travels here.

For French-accented dim sum: Madame Pang

Dim sum doesn’t top the typical list of things to eat in French wine country, but this tiny restaurant/cocktail bar is a great place to unwind, especially since the kitchen is open until 1 a.m. The dim sum ranges from the traditional (har gow, shumai) to more French-inflected fare, like scallop and shrimp pockets in a fluffy sea urchin foam, or bao buns filled with Fourme

d’Ambert blue cheese. The cocktail menu also looks eastward for inspiration, with drinks like tequila-spiked Hong Kong tea and sake negronis.

For excellent food in an unstuffy atmosphere: Porte Quinze

Most fine-dining restaurants in Bordeaux require elaborate place settings and dinner jackets, but chef Gilbert Okoin’s space is easy and intimate — the entire restaurant is the size of a studio apartment. Despite this petiteness, Okoin practices the delicate art of haute cuisine through both lunch and evening tasting menus, offered at a relatively affordable 59€ or 80€. Dishes are always a surprise but might include anything from perfectly executed duck breast to mushroom granita and truffle-topped scallops.

For exploring wine history: La Cité du Vin

There’s certainly a “when in Rome” reason for visiting La Cité du Vin. It’s the region’s dedicated wine museum, cataloguing the varietals, regions and characters that birthed the Bordeaux we know today. Even the design reflects wine history — it resembles a decanter, with a curving gold exterior, a soaring tower and more than 32,000 square feet of exhibition space within it. Swirl up from floor to floor, where you’ll find introductions to terroirs, tales of ancient wine trades and current trends. At the top, the tour will end at a panoramic tasting room.

For souvenirs from a historic shop: Librairie Mollat

If bottles of Merlot and Malbec aren’t already overloading your suitcase, stop into France’s largest independent bookstore, in the heart of Bordeaux, for gifts and souvenirs. Founded in 1896, the shop is located in the same building where French philosopher Montesquieu once lived, and today, stacks are spread out across 29,000 square feet. You can thumb through a book or two by Montesquieu, or browse a wide selection of children’s books, comics, travel logs and English-language collections.

While any of the city’s restaurants will offer excellent sweet treats, skip dessert and go get a canelé. It’s an essential Bordelaise snack, made with a mix of rum, vanilla, egg, butter, sugar and flour, then baked until dense and custardy, with a glassy, caramelized exterior. While the best canelé in Bordeaux is a contentious question, La Toque Cuivrée is widely accepted as one of the most impressive places for pastries.

For a true Bordeaux bistro: Brasserie Bordelaise

At this theatrical, high-energy brasserie, the plates are large, the wine pours freely, and the atmosphere is rowdy and joyful. Almost everything on the menu, including the oysters, beef tartare and pâté-topped crusty bread, is worth considering, provided you’re not on a diet. Don’t skip the tiny fried shrimps, caught by one of the last fisherman in the city, and the metal bowls packed high with duck fat fries. If you can, bring friends — there’s a wine cave in the basement where parties of six can dine among a full cellar of bottles.

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March 6, 2023

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These eco-conscious winegrowers are leading Bordeaux into a greener future

Nelson Gerena

As temperatures continue to climb in Bordeaux, winegrowers are feeling the heat as they try to manage the impacts of climate change. Recent years have seen average temperatures rising to new heights, with some predictions suggesting an additional one or two degrees Celsius rise in the near future – a development that could spell disaster for one of the world’s most iconic regions for viticulture. But, luckily, producers are taking positive action to protect their beloved businesses from an uncertain future; by turning towards more sustainable practices such as using cover crops and implementing Agroforestry measures.

Legumes, Cereals, and Brassica

At Château de Respide, Amélie Chatin and her team strive to create a better future for their vineyard through the use of cover crops – plants grown between rows or under vines to provide a host of benefits to the soil and vineyard. Through careful selection, they have chosen six different varieties of cover crop – three cereals, two legumes, and one brassica – that offer numerous advantages such as improved aeration of soils, increased biodiversity, and halving the amount of tractor tillage required; all while saving time and money, as well as reducing consumption of fossil fuels.

Amélie believes that these cover crops are essential to sustaining the health of the vines in the long-term. “The various characteristics of each variety provide essential nutrients necessary for healthy plant growth and development,” she explains. “Moreover, their different rooting depths allow for better air circulation within the soil.”

Going forward, Amélie plans on planting clover in remaining rows which won’t be as tall as other varieties but will still be compatible with tractor use. It’s all part of her ongoing mission to experiment with different strategies that are beneficial for both the environment and her business. As she puts it, “We know this is a beneficial strategy for so many reasons; we just have to keep experimenting to build upon this foundation.”

Agroforestry & Carbon Capture

Pauline Lapierre Dietrich, second-generation winegrower at Château Haut-Rian, is an advocate of agroforestry. With the help of Big Ensemble, a non-profit organization encouraging farmers to plant trees in agricultural areas throughout France, she has been able to reintroduce trees and bushes into and around her vine plots. Pauline reflects on some of the benefits that agroforestry brings, both for the environment and for her local community. “The first thing we noticed was how much our work brought us closer to our neighbors,” she says. “We asked members from the local community – from students and the elderly – to help us with planting, which gave them a great sense of purpose. Most of them had no idea what we did at the winery – one even guessed that we made beer!”

The advantages go beyond just creating a stronger community bond. Agroforestry can also benefit biodiversity by providing habitats for birds, insects, and other wildlife. Not only do these animals bring life to a previously dull landscape, but they can also help protect against disease by pollinating plants and controlling pests. Plus, trees act as carbon “sinks” absorbing carbon dioxide from the air while releasing oxygen back into it.

Agroforestry is becoming increasingly popular amongst Bordeaux winegrowers as more become aware of its many benefits. As Pauline puts it, “We work in our vineyards, we live close to our plots, we take family walks on rural roads, we drink our wine with friends. Our environment is therefore our work, our living environment. Beyond the fad, adopting agroforestry and other sustainable practices is vital to us.”

Sheep & An Insect Hotel

At have implemented several initiatives to ensure that their land and crops remain healthy for generations to come. One way they are doing this is by using sheep in the vineyard.

“We bring in sheep twice a year from La Ferme Des Itinerants – once in the winter and again in the spring – to munch down the cover crop between the rows of vines,” explains Château La Tour Blanche’s general manager, Miguel Aguirre. “The sheep contribute greatly by eating weeds, providing natural fertilization, and being part of our sustainable approach to farming. It’s a great benefit to us because we don’t have an additional expense for the use of their services.”

“It’s a win-win situation for everyone involved,” adds Sébastien Gilly, shepherd and owner of La Ferme Des Itinerants. “Bringing my sheep to the vineyard gives them free access to high-quality forage during an otherwise dormant growing season. I feel it’s important to partner with farms like Chateau Latour Blanche who are committed to sustainable practices.”

Chateau Latour Blanche also created an insect hotel where beneficial bugs stay. These “good” bugs help keep populations of pests under control so that chemical pesticides become unnecessary.

Bioclimatic Architecture & Energy Efficiency

Château Valandraud is a renowned winery located in Saint-Emilion, France, which was launched in 1991 by husband-and-wife team Murielle Andraud and Jean Luc Thunevin. When they first began, they were a small venture that operated out of a garage. Over time, they have become one of the most esteemed and recognized wineries in the region. Château Valandraud has also led the way in terms of energy efficiency, having implemented bioclimatic architecture into their new winery, which opened in 2021.

Bioclimatic architecture is an approach to construction that focuses on sustainability and energy conservation. Château Valandraud’s new winery was designed with natural materials like wood, stone, and clay sourced from nearby suppliers, as well as solar panels on the roof for generating electricity. In addition to providing shade to reduce cooling costs, rainwater harvested from the rooftop is collected and reused for irrigation purposes.

Incorporating these green initiatives has enabled Château Valandraud to ensure their operations leave minimal environmental impact while still maintaining their high standards of quality wine production. Investing in eco-friendly technology helps them build towards a more sustainable future.

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Nelson Gerena Wine/spirits Co-Founder @thevintnerproject

nelson.gerena Kicking off five days in Bordeaux with a warm welcome from Allan Sichel, president of the Conseil interprofessionnel du vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) and a refresher course at the Bordeaux wineschool...

The course offered up some interesting facts about the region:

- 5300+ winegrowers

ti. 75% of vineyard areas engaged in sustainable viticulture 20 bottles of Bordeaux sold every second worldwide

Later we visited Bar du Vin where we had thechance to meet several winemakers involved in sustainabledevelopment and corporate socialresponsibility (CSR) initiatives and learnt about their work. From leveraging blockchaintechnology to track production from grape to bottle, to creating programs for youth employment in Bordeaux, there are many innovative initiatives across the regionright now

Of course, we were able to try a range of wines, each as goodasthenext. But what really madethisexperience special was hearing all about them directly from those making them; it was an epic first day!

It'shard not to get excited when you hear all the great things happeningin this incredibleregion. Ican't wait to hear more stories and share them soon @thevintnerproject ...

#knowyourwinemaker

And shout out to @katedingzy for the and making melook halfway decent on only acouple hours of sleep

#bordeaux #CIVB#sustainability #barduvin #wine #winemedia#thevintnerproject

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Wine news, articles, job listings, & career-related info for wine & spirits professionals 1'Knowyour winemaker, knowyour wine • invivowines.com/insider-look-into-worlds-first-winery-airline

thevintnerproject • Follow �•v instories.reels • The Way Life Goes

thevintnerproject Sustainable FarmingIn Action @chateauderespidein Bordeaux I 1

A standard inter-row machine allows growersto work one row at a time. @chateauderespide, they've developedthis homemade framethatenablesthemto work two entirerows in a singlepass, cuttingtheir gasolineconsumption (and work effon) inhalf!!...

!?Did You Know!?Working vineyards with aninter-row machine (insteadofherbicides and chemicals} isa sustainablechoice. Not onlydoesit kill weeds, it also respectsthe biodiversitythatpopulatesthe vineyard. •

1'Know your winemaker, know your wine • #sustainability#viticulture#winegrower #winegrowing #vineyardmanagement #vineyard#bordeaux#graves #familyowned#winelover #winereels#wineknowledge #wine#vin#wein#winery #winediscovery

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White Wine Sampling

May 25, 2023

Circulation: 5,000 Digital

7 Wines for National Wine Day

Hayley Hamilton Cogill

Happy National Wine Day! The holiday comes with temperatures rising and summer sets in, at least in our new Las Vegas home. As we need a cool down, we turn to these bright, clean, and refreshing white wines that are as thirst-quenching as they are delicious. Drink well and enjoy!

From the Entre-Deux-Mers region within Bordeaux, winemaker Véronique Barthe crafts approachable wines from almost 240 acres of vineyards for her Vignobles Véronique Barthe. Her Chateau La Freynelle White Bordeaux blends Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and a touch of Muscadelle, adding weight and aroma, creating a well-rounded wine with crisp acidity that reveals flavors of fleshy yellow fruits, golden citrus, and soft herbs.

July 26, 2023

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White Bordeaux Wines Perfect for A Summer Meal

Nancy Brazil

Bordeaux is best known for its dry red wines, but Bordeaux is also home to delicious dry white wines. With temperatures soaring this summer, here and in much of the Northern Hemisphere, a crisp white wine is just what I want in my wine glass. We recently tasted three dry white Bordeaux wines, sent to us as tasting samples, that were especially refreshing on a warm afternoon and perfect with a summer meal.

According to Vins de Bordeaux only 8% of Bordeaux vineyards are planted to white grape varieties. Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle are the main white grapes used to make dry white Bordeaux blends and two main styles are made: fresh and fruity wines made using stainless steel and richer, more complex wines aged at least partially in oak barrels. The endless terroirs in Bordeaux along with the many blending and aging decisions made by winemakers result in dry white wines wines of great diversity.

The range of flavors in this trio of white Bordeaux wines is quite wide, but what they all have in common is balance and abundant acidity making them refreshing and food friendly. If you’re looking for blended wines based on Sauvignon Blanc, look for white Bordeaux. And they age well, if that’s important to you. Thanks to Gregory+Vine for organizing our tasting.

2022 Château La Freynelle, Bordeaux Blanc

pale yellow with generous aromas of guava and citrus blossoms. Citrus flavors are lemony with a bit of cut grass and roundness in the mouth. Acidity is juicy and soft at the same time. 13.5% abv.

Flavors are reminiscent of lemon chiffon pie, but without the sweetness, and is both light on its feet and a bit round in the mouth making it very easy sipping. Sip this wine before dinner or pair it with a salad. The blend is 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon, 10% Muscadelle and it went through partial malolactic fermentation with stainless steel aging.

2019 Château Haut Selve, Graves Blanc

yellow-green with aromas of dried hay, wet stone and lemon-lime. Flavors blend dried hay, citrus, earth, and wet stone with a bit of texture all supported by abundant, juicy acidity. 13.5% abv.

The combination of flavors is delicious and the wine has ample acidity with a bit of texture. Pair this wine with a meal: sautéed scallops and bok choi, Italian sausage and farro salad, grilled shrimp. The blend is 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon, 10% Sauvignon Gris aged in French oak for 6 months.

2017 Château Couhins, Pessac-Léognan Blanc

light yellow with aromas of oat hay and dusty gravel. Flavors include oat hay, guava, citrus and cut grass supported by abundant, juicy acidity. 13.5% abv

The flavors of Sauvignon Blanc are up front is this wine and the 2017 vintage is still very fresh and bright. This is another food wine that will pair with grilled vegetable dishes, grilled pork or pesto vegetable pasta or salad. The blend is 98% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Sauvignon Gris and the wine was aged in oak barrels with lees stirring.

June 26, 2023

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Have You Tasted White Bordeaux Wine?

Tom

Marquardt

White wines from Bordeaux aren’t top of mind to many American consumers, despite that the U.S. is the number one destination for them. Consumers tend to associate this French region with red wines while missing out on the alternative.

The primary grapes for white Bordeaux production are sauvignon blanc, semillon, muscadelle and sauvignon gris. Two distinctive styles command their personalities with most Bordeaux appellations crafting light, fruity, no-oaked wines dominated by sauvignon blanc and sold at consumer-friendly prices. A second style is a small amount of very expensive wine made in the Pessac-Leognan region from sauvignon blanc and semillon that often sees some oak aging.

White Bordeaux wines span the gamut of styles and the flavor spectrum. The amount of sauvignon blanc in the blend sets the tone for crispness and acidity as well as expressing certain fruit notes. More sauvignon blanc usually means a lighter, crisper experience with herb and citrus elements dominating. More semillon and the blend softens the wine and adds a more textured mouthfeel with pear and tropical fruit more apparent.

We tasted three white Bordeaux selections that spanned the spectrum of the region’s offerings. First up with a very heavy sauvignon blanc blend (90 percent) was the Chateau La Grande Metairie Entre-Deux-Mers 2021 ($15-17). The most austere of our samples, it had a bright profile that included herbs and citrus notes in a very lively package. Very food friendly for chicken and fish dishes.

Chateau Haut-Columbier Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux Blanc 2021 ($18-23) is made from organic grapes. This delightful offering has less sauvignon blanc (60 percent), 30 percent semillon and a dash of muscadelle. The result is a softer presentation in the mouth with herb scents and a hint of mint. Pear and herb notes dominate the flavors with ample acidity and a smooth finish.

At the other end of the spectrum was the Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux 2021 ($20). It is a blend of 70 percent semillon and 30 percent sauvignon blanc. Here we found notes of tropical fruits and a smooth elegant mouthfeel with lime notes in the finish. An amazingly quaffable bottle of wine, and one of our favorites.

Bordeaux also produces a limited amount of sparkling wine that is usually marketed as a crémant, as well as rosé crafted from classic Bordeaux varietals.

Cremant De Bordeaux is not well known or easy to find — it only attained official status in 1990. However, that doesn’t diminish the quality of the Lois Vallon Cremant De Bordeaux Brut ($15-18). Merlot, cabernet franc, semillon, and muscadelle are used in this sparkling wine. The result is a delightful, fruity experience with notes of pear and apple with a hint of citrus and at a great price.

We also tasted a still rosé that we found very appealing. The Clarendelle Rosé Bordeaux 2021 ($16) from Clarence Dillon Wines are also owners of first-growth Chateau Haut-Brion. The rosé presents delicious fresh fruit notes of strawberry and cherry in a very agreeable lighter style. Crafted from cabernet franc grapes.

June 19, 2023

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Wine Press: 3 Bordeaux white wines under $20

Ken Ross

France’s Bordeaux region might be best known for its outstanding (and often very affordable) red wines. But did you know that many of these same winemakers also produce distinct white wines? This week, you can learn more about them

history, grape varieties, wine growing regions, etc. – along with tasting notes for three Bordeaux white wines.Best of all, the three wines recommended this week – along with many other white wines from Bordeaux – each cost less than $20 a bottle.

History

People have been making wine in France’s Bordeaux region for roughly 2,000 years. But whether those wines were white wines isn’t exactly clear. What I do know is some of Bordeaux’s most popular white wine grapes (more on them in a bit) have been grown in Bordeaux starting at least in the early 1700s, according to the outstanding wine reference book, “Wine Grapes,” by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamaz.

Grape varieties

Compared to red wine, white wine production in Bordeaux is a drop in the bucket. (Pun intended.) Approximately 10% of all wine that comes from Bordeaux is white wine. However, since Bordeaux produces roughly 158 million gallons of wine each year, that’s still nearly 16 million gallons of Bordeaux white wine. Two types of grapes account for the vast majority of white wine produced in Bordeaux – semillon and sauvignon blanc. Semillon makes up roughly 45% of Bordeaux’s white wine vines, followed closely by sauvignon blanc at 43%. The third most common white wine grape in Bordeaux is muscadelle (5%). Many times, winemakers in Bordeaux blend together these three grapes to make many of their white wines as well as Bordeaux’s famous (and absolutely delicious) dessert wine, Sauterne. However, in recent years, some winemakers in Bordeaux have started creating wines using just one grape – sauvignon blanc.

Growing regions

Within Bordeaux, certain subregions are known for their white wines. Specifically, there are 12 AOCs (French abbreviation for a term used to describe wine grown in a specific location) in Bordeaux that produce white wines, according to the Wine Association of Bordeaux. In general, all of these regions can be found on the Left Bank, the geographic term used to describe wine regions in Bordeaux on the south side (left side) of the Garonne River. The Graves subregion (the word “graves” refers to the gravel-like soils here) is the best-known region for white wine in Bordeaux. Next to the Graves region, the Pessac-Leognan subregion (which used to be part of Graves) produces many outstanding white wines. Perhaps the best-known (and most expensive) white wine from here comes from Chateau Haut-Brion. (Expect to pay about $1,000 for a single bottle.) Further north, the Margraux subregion also produces many outstanding white wines, including Chateaux Margraux, which makes a 100% sauvignon blanc wine that sells for a mere $300 a bottle. But as you will read below, you don’t have to spend a fortune to find outstanding Bordeaux white wines.

2018 Chateau Reynon Sauvignon Blanc Region: Cotes De Bordeaux, Bordeaux

Grapes: 100% sauvignon blanc

I loved this wine even before I tasted it. Pouring the wine into the glass, its fragrant, florallike aromas filled the room like a bouquet of fresh flowers. Tasting the wine, I was instantly reminded of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc (zesty, fresh-cut grass) but with a twist. In addition to those flavors, there are also subtle hints of citrus-like flavors, including grapefruit, lemon and lime. An absolutely delightful, refreshing wine bursting with distinct aromas and flavors.

2021 Chateau Haut-Colombier Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux

Region: Cotes De Bordeaux, Bordeaux

Grapes: 60% sauvignon blanc, 30% muscadelle, 10% Semillon

The Bordeaux region’s famous for its blended wines. This wine and the next one illustrate why. Like the first wine, this one definitely has a zesty, fresh-cut grass quality to it due to the sauvignon blanc grapes. But there are many other flavors (green ap grapefruit, sea salt) at play here as well. Another difference is these flavors and aromas are much softer. This wine speaks in a whisper, like a gentle breeze dancing across the grass.

2021 Chateau La Grande Metairie

Region: Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux

Grapes: 90% sauvignon blanc, 10% muscadelle

I didn’t know what to make of this wine at first. It tastes so different from the other two recommended this week. Even though it’s mostly sauvignon blanc, it doesn’t taste like a sauvignon blanc. The crisp flavors here range from lemon, lime and pear to sea salt and vanilla. And compared to the first two wines, this one’s much leaner, much more austere. Maybe that’s because the grapes are grown in soils that are a blend of clay and limestone. Whatever the reason, this distinct, affordable wine illustrates why Bordeaux white wines deserve their place in the spotlight as well.

Bordeaux as a House White? The $15 Taste-Off

Dorothy J. Gaiter & John Brecher

Has this ever happened to you? It’s summer. You need a pleasant, thoughtful, inexpensive white. You just realized you don’t have anything in the refrigerator and your usual wine store seems too distant in the heat. You go to the so-so store in the nearby strip mall, or the supermarket, and get…what, exactly?

In our case, and this has been true for many years, we go straight for informal white Bordeaux – more-expensive white Bordeaux can wait for another day and pick up the youngest we see. We’re always surprised and pleased to see that even mediocre stores offer at least a few. These wines, simply labeled as Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux Blanc and many others, are some of the best deals on the shelf. And we just found a new co-favorite.

Back in 2016, Dottie wrote about a wine called Château Haut-Rian. At a tasting, she had run into Michel Dietrich, who founded the winery with his wife, Isabelle, in 1988. Dottie was so crazy about the wine that she enthused to John about it. We bought a case, which was then about $11 a bottle, and it became our house white. We’ve been buying it for so many years that there’s been a generational change: Michel and Isabelle retired in Rions and the winery has been managed since 2019 by their daughter, Pauline Lapierre Dietrich, who received an oenology degree from the wine institute in Montpellier in 2017

We pay about $17 now. Its appellation is simply Bordeaux Blanc and it’s 60% Sémillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. “We are true Sémillon lovers,” Pauline told us, adding that the winery is converting to organic. And even though it’s lovely as a sipper by itself, the zing of the wine also pairs beautifully with food, even lobster.

Meantime, we just had another that turned our heads. It was Château Haut Colombier (Vignobles Chéty), from the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, and is made from organic Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. The first two are most common in white Bordeaux, but Muscadelle is widely used as well. It was pretty much love at first sip, especially because it was the same low price as the Haut-Rian and the same reasonable alcohol level (12% vs. 12.5%), which we appreciate in summer. We liked it so much that we decided to have a blind tasting of the two to determine which we’d buy a case of next.

So we ordered a mixed case for our taste-off. We knew we’d drink these as our house wines no matter what, and the case discount brought the price down to about $15 a bottle. We put the wines into brown paper bags and then put a third inexpensive white Bordeaux, one we have also liked over the years, into a bag as well. As we have often said, wines are more interesting and complex when tasted against their peers. What would we discover? One fell out of the running quickly. That left two, which turned out to be the Haut-Rian and the Haut Colombier. They were both 2021 and both excellent – fresh, clean, focused, with mouth-watering acidity and minerality. We went back and forth and ultimately couldn’t really choose. We described one as “complete.” It was vibrant and filled with memories of our Persian lime tree in Miami, and also offered some nice depth. This turned out to be the new kid for us, the Haut Colombier. The Haut-Rian was fermented solely in stainless steel, with some lees stirring that lent it a lovely texture, while the Haut Colombier got a small touch of oak that gave it some spice. We’d buy either again in a minute.

We then got into touch with Olivier Chéty, the winemaker for Haut Colombier, who talked about Muscadelle, organic farming and how to make your own path while respecting the past. He owns the winery with his brother, Emanuel. If it ever crosses your mind that a $17 wine cannot be the result of the same kind of vision and care as a much more expensive bottle, here you go.

GC: You are the winemaker and your family owns the winery, correct?

Chéty: Yes, I am the winemaker. Our family has been winegrowers for several generations. I settled here in 1995 after my studies when our neighboring winegrower, a hunting friend of my dad who had no children, offered us his property, Château Haut Colombier. Since then, we have been renovating the buildings, highlighting our best terroirs and diversifying our grape varieties, such as the contribution of Muscadelle and Sémillon in addition to Sauvignon.

GC: The label says the wine is 10% Muscadelle but the tech sheet says 30%. Which is correct? In any case, can you tell us what Muscadelle adds to the final wine?

Chéty: The Château Haut Colombier Blanc 2021 vintage contains 10% Muscadelle; depending on the year, the percentage may vary. The Muscadelle brings a side of floral aromas that we like, which makes it more of a festive aperitif wine.

GC: The wine is made from organic grapes. The whole process of making a vineyard organic and getting it certified is timeconsuming and expensive. Why did you do it?

Chéty: We started our conversion to organic farming in 2011. We made this choice to benefit our children and our neighbors, and to be in harmony with nature as best as possible. We seek to cultivate living soils and wines that best reflect the expression of our terroirs.

GC: We think of white Bordeaux like yours as lovely in youth. We are also guessing it can age well. Have you had an older bottle of your white recently? Could you describe how it looked and tasted?

Chéty: A: I think this white wine can age at least 4-5 years, but I haven't had an older vintage until now. It's an experience I'm going to try!

GC: On your website, you say that even though you are heirs to a long family heritage, you are not bending under the weight of the tradition. In what ways is your winemaking the same as past generations and how is it different?

Chéty: Our father's vinification was traditional, and we wanted to bring more precision by no longer carrying out systematic manipulations. That is to say, we conducted a lot more tastings: grape tastings twice a week to determine the best harvest date, daily tasting during the vinification, and so on all this to be attentive to the wine, and not to do too much manipulation that could harm the wine.

GC: Finally, there have been so many disasters in wine regions all over the world recently floods, COVID, hail, drought. How have these affected you?

Chéty: Like everyone else, we were also affected by various disasters, frozen in part in 2017 and 2019, and hail in part in 2018. COVID made us lose markets that we are regaining little by little. We’re trying to bounce back by offering complex wines that appeal to consumers due to their blends and elegance. For drought, I think that by having living and therefo re more permeable soils and by plunging the roots of the vines in plowing the vines will suffer less in hot years.

June 6, 2023

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Mom Deserves Everything & More This Mother’s Day

Tony Bowles

If you’re officially in summer-planning mode, we’re here to help out on the drink front. Come summer, your parties, brunches, and picnics deserve beverages that fit right along with that fun, flirty summer mood, so don’t get caught slipping.

Get to planning any form of get-together with friends to properly cheers to the great outdoors. UV rays, oh how dearly you have been missed! Then, immediately peruse this list of cocktails the next time you’re feeling like a drink in the sun (is tomorrow too soon?).

Spring Cocktails, Wines & More

One of the favorite things about summer are the cool and refreshing cocktails! We have rounded up a nice variety of recipes as well as wine and bubbly options for you to enjoy!

Château Haut Selve, Graves Blanc, 2019

Château Haut Selve is the only creation of vineyard in Bordeaux in the 20th Century. The vineyard was planted in the historical Graves Appellation area over a pine forest where vines used to grow 120 years ago. Each step of Chateau Haut Selve’s creation was thought and carried out as if it was a piece of art. The history of art and wine is the particularity of this property that is known to be one of the top five in Graves.

June 6, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

The Ultimate 2023 Summer Essentials Guide: Travel, Dining, Beauty, Fashion, Cocktails & More

Tony Bowles

In this guide we will share safe travel destinations, summer essentials for those obsessed with their homes, summer necessities for both men and women, and what is summer without refreshing cocktails to bask in the warm weather. There is something for everyone and whether you are traveling, doing a staycation, looking for the perfect summer accessories, we encourage you to read this guide in its entirety and most importantly we wish you a very fun and safe summer we all deserve it!

Summer Travel Destinations

Pack up and don’t be afraid to use those vacation days! Check out exclusive deals from resorts to local Inns whether you want a tropical destination or more international, there is something below that will be sure to have you ready to use your frequent flyer miles.

Château Haut Selve, Graves Blanc, 2019

Château Haut Selve is the only creation of vineyard in Bordeaux in the 20th Century. The vineyard was planted in the historical Graves Appellation area over a pine forest where vines used to grow 120 years ago. Each step of Chateau Haut Selve’s creation was thought and carried out as if it was a piece of art. The history of art and wine is the particularity of this property that is known to be one of the top five in Graves.

May 2, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

Mom Deserves Everything & More This Mother’s Day

Tony Bowles

Give Her A Reason To Smile

Yes, we know we should celebrate mom everyday, but this Mother’s Day, give her an extra reason to smile.

Château Haut Selve, Graves Blanc, 2019

Château Haut Selve is the only creation of vineyard in Bordeaux in the 20th Century. The vineyard was planted in the historical Graves Appellation area over a pine forest where vines used to grow 120 years ago. Each step of Chateau Haut Selve’s creation was thought and carried out as if it was a piece of art. The history of art and wine is the particularity of this property that is known to be one of the top five in Graves.

June 6, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

12 Summer Sips: Wines to Suit Every Palate

Virgina Miller

From sparkling summer crushers to thoughtful natural wines, I’ve got 12 bottles to suit a wide range of palates, meals or occasions, including standout non-alcoholic wines. For more, my last wine recommendations and last summer’s 12.

Château Haut Selve, Graves Blanc, 2019

I have fond memories of touring Bordeaux on a press trip in 2011, including the region of Graves appellation. 2019 Chateau Haut Selve Graves is a white wine blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Gris, with Sauv Blanc being the most common white variety of Bordeaux. Six months wood aging brings some toasty vanilla notes, but the floral, honeyed, baked apple, ginger and herb notes still shine through.

May 22, 2023

Circulation: 15,000 Digital

WINE REVIEW: Château La Grande Métairie 2021, Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux

Andrew Chalk

Bordeaux is more than just star wines with global reputations. At its heart it is thousands of family-run wineries producing wines that everyone can afford. This is one such example. Originating from an area at the side of the Dordogne, this wine is a blend of sauvignon blanc (90%) and muscadelle (10%). It is actually an educational example of this blend. It had a ready acidity and earthy flavors from the sauvignon blanc and aromas of melon and white peach from the muscadelle. The weighty mouthfeel carries on the muscadelle influence.

Good value!

TECHNICAL DETAILS

ORIGIN: Bordeaux, France

APPELLATION: Entre-Deux-Mers

VINEYARD: Vines are at average 25 yrs. old and are in limestone-clay soil, with alluvial deposits of Quaternary.

BLEND: 90% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle

FARMING: Sorted and destemmed in vineyard

WINEMAKING: Cold Maceration for 4-24 hours. Fermentation in stainless steel temperature controlled vats

AGING: Age on fine lees for several months with regular stirring

THE FAMILY

The Buffeteau family has been known for over three generations for winemaking in the EntreDeux-Mers region. In 1964, Jean-Paul and Huguette Buffeteau established La Grand Métairie estate between the communes of Castelviel and Gornac, in the heart of the region. Today, it is their son, Jean-Luc Buffeteau, who oversees the estate’s 54 acres.

Château La Grande Métairie’s Entre-deux-Mers 23-hectare vineyard is planted on south/southwest-facing hillsides 360 to 460ft high. The Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, and Muscadelle vines are planted at the second-highest point of the Gironde in order to have excellent sun exposure so that the vines may flourish. The clay and limestone soils enable a precise expression of the terroir. Manual selection begins on the parcel 24 hours before the harvest in order to put aside the grapes that are damaged. Mechanical harvest, with destemming in the vineyard, occurs during the cool hours of the day between 5 and 8 in the morning. The final wine, brilliant in appearance with an incredible shine of slightly yellow shades, is an ideal balance between freshness, fruit, length and roundness. It reveals aromas of fresh pineapple, ripe pear, and bright citrus with delicate hints of white flowers.

Crémant & Rosé Sampling

August 11, 2023

Circulation: 1,000 Digital

Château La Rame, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont 2021

Gus Clemons

Medium copper color; honeysuckle, pear, lemon, peach, acacia honey, white flowers on delicate nose; orchard fruits, lemon-lime, pear, grapefruit, peach on the palate.

Dry; blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon likely 75-25, which is the percentage of the vineyard. Most vines more than 50 years old. Light, delicate body. No oak, no tannins. Clean very clean crisp, refreshing. 12.5% ABV

Château La

The winery is located 25 miles southeast of the city of Bordeaux. Château La Rame is one of the oldest properties in the Sainte Croix du Mont appellation. The winery sits on a hill overlooking the Garonne River. The estate was the property of Baron de Vertheuil, governor of the Ile d’Oleron after the French Revolution. Long recognized as a prime location winning gold medals at the end of the 19th century.

Claude Armand, father of the current owner, purchased the property when it fell into decline. The Armand family has worked to bring Château La Rame back to the level of the great estates of Sauternes and Barsac. In addition to this very light bottling, the château also produces botrytis dessert wine. That is stark contrast to this very dry effort.

Château La Rame, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont 2021: Lilting caresses on the palate. Delicate, flutteringly bashful fruit. Clean and refreshing with sharply defined fruits is this effort’s calling card. Drinks like a sauv blanc without the cutting acidity. Works very well as aperitif or solo sipper on a hot summer day; probably its best use. Pair with usual fare to pair with sauv blanc: shellfish; grilled fish; fish tacos; pasta and summer salads; vegetarian fare; charcuterie board that includes fresh fruits. Cheese goat cheese is the classic cheese pairing, also sheep’s milk; goat milk cheddar, gouda, havarti, monterey jack, muenster, parmesan, swiss. $21-29

August 1, 2023

Circulation: 100,000 Digital

Is It Possible to Turn a Bud Light Diehard Into a Wine Drinker? We Think So

Devin

Parr

I have made the mistake on occasion of ordering the “house wine” from the local bar (there’s usually only ever one on offer), and resigned myself, a wine professional, to joining the rest of the crowd sipping Michelob Ultras and Miller Lites instead. Despite the presence of some cool wine bars in nearby towns, not to mention the proximity of several wine destinations like Niagara, Lake Erie, and the Finger Lakes, the loyalty to these light beers remains strong. Impenetrable, even.

With this in mind, I set out to figure out what it takes to change a die-hard beer-drinker’s habits. Is it even possible? What prevents beer lovers from venturing into the wine world? And, are there any wines that might serve as enticing gateway options to lure the brewski-obsessed crowd? I ended up with a breakdown of most beer drinkers’ excuses for not drinking wine, as well as what wines to counter with when you’re trying to convert them… or trying to ditch your own suds-sipping habit.

If they say, “My family never drank wine, so I don’t.” This argument just reeks of a fear of change, which is never good and even worse when it comes to beverage options. Go back a few generations and your family also never carried a supercomputer around in their pocket or rode in cars that drove themselves.

Of course we are shaped by our upbringing, with neighborhoods like South Buffalo more entrenched in tradition than other, more transient cities, but this mentality is a slippery slope. Save the family conventions for whether you all run a 5K or po ur mimosas on Thanksgiving morning. When it comes to food and drink, traditions are meant to be challenged and new ones created; so invite your change-averse friend over for dinner and present some new wine options instead of beer. Hell, get a little crazy and try a pairing menu. Few rituals compare to the opening and pouring of a bottle of wine at a meal with family or friends…which may just become their new favorite tradition.

Wines to try: Louis Vallon Crémant de Bordeaux Brut, Bordeaux, FR, $18

August 3, 2023

Circulation: 1,000 Digital

Calvet Crémant de Bordeaux Brut 2019

Gus

Clemons

Pale gold color; peach, apple, pear, brioche-yeast on the nose; peach, lemon-lime, pear, apple on the palate.

Brut; very tiny bubbles. Crisp, lively, flavorful, elegant. Light and fun in the mouth. This is the white version of their crémant; they also produce a rosé version that is more heavily marketed. In both cases, this is quality Champagne substitute at considerably lower price. Blend of 70% semillon, 30% cabernet franc. Grapes manually harvested in small boxes, pressed, and juice allowed to settle. Traditional method vinification at low temperature to preserve freshness. Second fermentation in bottle for nine months. This is same method used in Champagne, but since it is made in Bordeaux it is labeled crémant. 12% ABV

Founded in 1818, Maison Calvet is a significant player in Bordeaux. They partner with more than 100 family-owned estates to produce an array of wines. The operation’s roots trace back to Jean Marie Calvet who, passionate about wine from earliest age, set up the Calvet Company at age 19. Octave Calvet took over the company in 1870 and expanded operations. In 1889, Jean Calvet, the founder’s great grandson, established Calvet Beaune in Burgundy.

In 1930, Jean Ribéreau-Gayon and Emile Peynaud, notable pioneers in modern oenology, set up a laboratory for Calvet to improve quality. In 1966, a huge fire destroyed significant part of the Calvet site while sparing the underground cellars. The reconstruction allowed for a modern bottling plant. Ownership changes followed. Calvet became a subsidiary of the Whitbread Group and then the Allied Domecq group in the 1980s. Les Grands Chais de France acquired the company in 2007 with a stated objective: “To make Calvet the number one Bordeaux brand in the world.”

Calvet Crémant de Bordeaux Brut 2019 is fresh and elegant with tiny, long-lasting bubbles. A delight in the mouth with crispness and tasty semillon fruit, which gives suggestion of sweetness while still delivering sharpness and lemon-lime notes amid the peach and apple. Notably complex and sophisticated for a bubbly at this price point. Works as aperitif, as a cocktail blend, as a brunch libation, and sipped on its own on a hot day. Pair with shellfish; lobster; lean fish baked trout would be nice; fish in creamy sauces; poultry light sauce, baked, broiled, not fried or barbecued; appetizers and snacks. Although it is not sweet, it can work as a dessert wine with fresh fruits or by itself. Cheese goat cheese, brie, gruyère, mild cheddar, double Glouchester, manchego, Monterey jack, zamarano (Spanish sheep’s milk cheese), camembert. $18-22

May 25, 2023

Circulation: 5,000 Digital

7 Wines for National Wine Day

Hayley Hamilton Cogill

Happy National Wine Day! The holiday comes with temperatures rising and summer sets in, at least in our new Las Vegas home. As we need a cool down, we turn to these bright, clean, and refreshing white wines that are as thirst-quenching as they are delicious. Drink well and enjoy!

And, to top off our list, because every holiday needs a bubbly, so toast with Louis Vallon Cremant de Bordeaux Brut. It is a traditional method sparkler produced from the unusual combination of Semillon and Cabernet Franc. With an abundant mousse that leads to aromas of honey, white flowers, and blanched almonds, the inviting wine is perfectly refreshing and easy to toast on its own or with light bites as an aperitif.

July 14, 2023

Circulation: 5,000 Digital

Bastille Day Rosé

Hayley Hamilton Cogill

Happy Bastille Day, the day that marks the beginning of the French Revolution and the emergence of a new French Republic. And what better way to mark the occasion than with a bottle of refreshing French Rosé. Cheers to freedom and the French!

From Famille BERNARD, led by winemaker Oliver Bernard, Bordeaux’s Domaine de Chevalier crafts it’s punchy, zesty, lush, and delicious Rosé de Chevalier. With a pale salmon color, the wine opens with bright citrus and floral notes, which lead to a palate of cherry, wild berry, mandarin, crushed rose petals, and ripe pomelo. With freshness, structure, and refinement, the wine is a perfect accompaniment to summer dishes like grilled chicken and vegetables, fresh seafood, or chilled soups.

June 26, 2023

Circulation: 2,648,000 Digital

Have You Tasted White Bordeaux Wine?

Tom

Marquardt

White wines from Bordeaux aren’t top of mind to many American consumers, despite that the U.S. is the number one destination for them. Consumers tend to associate this French region with red wines while missing out on the alternative.

The primary grapes for white Bordeaux production are sauvignon blanc, semillon, muscadelle and sauvignon gris. Two distinctive styles command their personalities with most Bordeaux appellations crafting light, fruity, no-oaked wines dominated by sauvignon blanc and sold at consumer-friendly prices. A second style is a small amount of very expensive wine made in the Pessac-Leognan region from sauvignon blanc and semillon that often sees some oak aging.

White Bordeaux wines span the gamut of styles and the flavor spectrum. The amount of sauvignon blanc in the blend sets the tone for crispness and acidity as well as expressing certain fruit notes. More sauvignon blanc usually means a lighter, crisper experience with herb and citrus elements dominating. More semillon and the blend softens the wine and adds a more textured mouthfeel with pear and tropical fruit more apparent.

We tasted three white Bordeaux selections that spanned the spectrum of the region’s offerings. First up with a very heavy sauvignon blanc blend (90 percent) was the Chateau La Grande Metairie Entre-Deux-Mers 2021 ($15-17). The most austere of our samples, it had a bright profile that included herbs and citrus notes in a very lively package. Very food friendly for chicken and fish dishes.

Chateau Haut-Columbier Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux Blanc 2021 ($18-23) is made from organic grapes. This delightful offering has less sauvignon blanc (60 percent), 30 percent semillon and a dash of muscadelle. The result is a softer presentation in the mouth with herb scents and a hint of mint. Pear and herb notes dominate the flavors with ample acidity and a smooth finish.

At the other end of the spectrum was the Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux 2021 ($20). It is a blend of 70 percent semillon and 30 percent sauvignon blanc. Here we found notes of tropical fruits and a smooth elegant mouthfeel with lime notes in the finish. An amazingly quaffable bottle of wine, and one of our favorites.

Bordeaux also produces a limited amount of sparkling wine that is usually marketed as a crémant, as well as rosé crafted from classic Bordeaux varietals.

Cremant De Bordeaux is not well known or easy to find it only attained official status in 1990. However, that doesn’t diminish the quality of the Lois Vallon Cremant De Bordeaux Brut ($15-18). Merlot, cabernet franc, semillon, and muscadelle are used in this sparkling wine. The result is a delightful, fruity experience with notes of pear and apple with a hint of citrus and at a great price.

We also tasted a still rosé that we found very appealing. The Clarendelle Rosé Bordeaux 2021 ($16) from Clarence Dillon Wines are also owners of first-growth Chateau Haut-Brion. The rosé presents delicious fresh fruit notes of strawberry and cherry in a very agreeable lighter style. Crafted from cabernet franc grapes.

June 19, 2023

Circulation: 3,041,208 Digital

Wine Press: 3 Bordeaux white wines under $20

Ken Ross

France’s Bordeaux region might be best known for its outstanding (and often very affordable) red wines. But did you know that many of these same winemakers also produce distinct white wines? This week, you can learn more about them

history, grape varieties, wine growing regions, etc. – along with tasting notes for three Bordeaux white wines.Best of all, the three wines recommended this week – along with many other white wines from Bordeaux – each cost less than $20 a bottle.

History

People have been making wine in France’s Bordeaux region for roughly 2,000 years. But whether those wines were white wines isn’t exactly clear. What I do know is some of Bordeaux’s most popular white wine grapes (more on them in a bit) have been grown in Bordeaux starting at least in the early 1700s, according to the outstanding wine reference book, “Wine Grapes,” by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamaz.

Grape varieties

Compared to red wine, white wine production in Bordeaux is a drop in the bucket. (Pun intended.) Approximately 10% of all wine that comes from Bordeaux is white wine. However, since Bordeaux produces roughly 158 million gallons of wine each year, that’s still nearly 16 million gallons of Bordeaux white wine. Two types of grapes account for the vast majority of white wine produced in Bordeaux – semillon and sauvignon blanc. Semillon makes up roughly 45% of Bordeaux’s white wine vines, followed closely by sauvignon blanc at 43%. The third most common white wine grape in Bordeaux is muscadelle (5%). Many times, winemakers in Bordeaux blend together these three grapes to make many of their white wines as well as Bordeaux’s famous (and absolutely delicious) dessert wine, Sauterne. However, in recent years, some winemakers in Bordeaux have started creating wines using just one grape – sauvignon blanc.

Growing regions

Within Bordeaux, certain subregions are known for their white wines. Specifically, there are 12 AOCs (French abbreviation for a term used to describe wine grown in a specific location) in Bordeaux that produce white wines, according to the Wine Association of Bordeaux. In general, all of these regions can be found on the Left Bank, the geographic term used to describe wine regions in Bordeaux on the south side (left side) of the Garonne River. The Graves subregion (the word “graves” refers to the gravel-like soils here) is the best-known region for white wine in Bordeaux. Next to the Graves region, the Pessac-Leognan subregion (which used to be part of Graves) produces many outstanding white wines. Perhaps the best-known (and most expensive) white wine from here comes from Chateau Haut-Brion. (Expect to pay about $1,000 for a single bottle.) Further north, the Margraux subregion also produces many outstanding white wines, including Chateaux Margraux, which makes a 100% sauvignon blanc wine that sells for a mere $300 a bottle. But as you will read below, you don’t have to spend a fortune to find outstanding Bordeaux white wines.

2018 Chateau Reynon Sauvignon Blanc Region: Cotes De Bordeaux, Bordeaux

Grapes: 100% sauvignon blanc

I loved this wine even before I tasted it. Pouring the wine into the glass, its fragrant, florallike aromas filled the room like a bouquet of fresh flowers. Tasting the wine, I was instantly reminded of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc (zesty, fresh-cut grass) but with a twist. In addition to those flavors, there are also subtle hints of citrus-like flavors, including grapefruit, lemon and lime. An absolutely delightful, refreshing wine bursting with distinct aromas and flavors.

2021 Chateau Haut-Colombier Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux

Region: Cotes De Bordeaux, Bordeaux

Grapes: 60% sauvignon blanc, 30% muscadelle, 10% Semillon

The Bordeaux region’s famous for its blended wines. This wine and the next one illustrate why. Like the first wine, this one definitely has a zesty, fresh-cut grass quality to it due to the sauvignon blanc grapes. But there are many other flavors (green ap grapefruit, sea salt) at play here as well. Another difference is these flavors and aromas are much softer. This wine speaks in a whisper, like a gentle breeze dancing across the grass.

2021 Chateau La Grande Metairie

Region: Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux

Grapes: 90% sauvignon blanc, 10% muscadelle

I didn’t know what to make of this wine at first. It tastes so different from the other two recommended this week. Even though it’s mostly sauvignon blanc, it doesn’t taste like a sauvignon blanc. The crisp flavors here range from lemon, lime and pear to sea salt and vanilla. And compared to the first two wines, this one’s much leaner, much more austere. Maybe that’s because the grapes are grown in soils that are a blend of clay and limestone. Whatever the reason, this distinct, affordable wine illustrates why Bordeaux white wines deserve their place in the spotlight as well.

June 6, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

Mom Deserves Everything & More This Mother’s Day

Tony Bowles

If you’re officially in summer-planning mode, we’re here to help out on the drink front. Come summer, your parties, brunches, and picnics deserve beverages that fit right along with that fun, flirty summer mood, so don’t get caught slipping.

Get to planning any form of get-together with friends to properly cheers to the great outdoors. UV rays, oh how dearly you have been missed! Then, immediately peruse this list of cocktails the next time you’re feeling like a drink in the sun (is tomorrow too soon?).

Spring Cocktails, Wines & More

One of the favorite things about summer are the cool and refreshing cocktails! We have rounded up a nice variety of recipes as well as wine and bubbly options for you to enjoy!

Calvet, Crémant de Bordeaux, NV

The grapes manually harvested in small boxes, pressed, and settled. The vinification follows the traditional method : first the juice is fermented at low temperature to preserve the freshness of the sparkling. Then when the wine is bottle, the second fermentation begins and lasts 9 months. This step transforms wine in sparkling wine.

June 6, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

The Ultimate 2023 Summer Essentials Guide: Travel, Dining, Beauty, Fashion, Cocktails & More

Tony Bowles

In this guide we will share safe travel destinations, summer essentials for those obsessed with their homes, summer necessities for both men and women, and what is summer without refreshing cocktails to bask in the warm weather. There is something for everyone and whether you are traveling, doing a staycation, looking for the perfect summer accessories, we encourage you to read this guide in its entirety and most importantly we wish you a very fun and safe summer we all deserve it!

Summer Travel Destinations

Pack up and don’t be afraid to use those vacation days! Check out exclusive deals from resorts to local Inns whether you want a tropical destination or more international, there is something below that will be sure to have you ready to use your frequent flyer miles.

Calvet, Crémant de Bordeaux, NV

The grapes manually harvested in small boxes, pressed, and settled. The vinification follows the traditional method : first the juice is fermented at low temperature to preserve the freshness of the sparkling. Then when the wine is bottle, the second fermentation begins and lasts 9 months. This step transforms wine in sparkling wine.

June 6, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

12 Summer Sips: Wines to Suit Every Palate

Virginia Miller

From sparkling summer crushers to thoughtful natural wines, I’ve got 12 bottles to suit a wide range of palates, meals or occasions, including standout non-alcoholic wines. For more, my last wine recommendations and last summer’s 12.

CALVET CREMANT de BORDEAUX BRUT

Calvet Cremant de Bordeaux Brut ($18) is a dry, affordable sparkler from Bordeaux, a blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Cabernet Franc. The wine undergoes second fermentation for 9 months, resulting in a golden yellow color, with a balanced hit of stone fruit, citrus and brioche. It’s crushable and easy to pair with a range of foods.

May 2, 2023

Circulation: 68,370,877

Digital

Mom Deserves Everything & More This Mother’s Day

Tony Bowles

Give Her A Reason To Smile

Yes, we know we should celebrate mom everyday, but this Mother’s Day, give her an extra reason to smile.

Calvet, Crémant de Bordeaux, NV

The grapes manually harvested in small boxes, pressed and settled. The vinification follows the traditionnal method : first the juice is fermented ar low temperatue to preserve the freshness of the sparkling. Then when the wine is bottle, the second fermentation begins and lasts 9 months. This step transforms wine in sparkling wine.

May 29, 2023

Circulation: 4,329,696 Digital

Wine Press: 3 great, affordable French rose wines

Ken Ross

I’ll call you right back. The check is in the mail.

We’ve all often heard these words before, only to be disappointed later. Well, not this week, loyal readers. A few weeks ago, while writing about 5 magnificent wines for Mother’s Day, I promised to write more about rose wines this spring. And this week, I’m making good on my promise. Because once the weather warms up, who doesn’t love a great glass of rose? And if you don’t like rose wine, you should give them another try.

I know it’s hard to believe but some people still turn their noses up at rose wines. But in recent years, the quality of these wines has improved dramatically. This is especially true when it comes to rose wines from France. Normally, most wine articles about French rose wines focus on one specific region – Provence. Don’t get me w roses. I spent a week there a few years ago tasting wines from Provence. But who doesn’t love a little variety?

This week, I thought we’d head a little more west in France, where you can find many other outstanding, affordable rose wines recommended this week come from France’s Rhone region. The other comes from Bordeaux. And all three wines cost less than $20 a bottle.

Hope you enjoy.

2021 Clarendelle Bordeaux Rose ($15.99 Suggested Retail Price)

Region: Haut-Brion, Bordeaux, France

Grapes: 65% merlot, 32% cabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet franc

France’s Bordeaux region is definitely not a place most people normally associate with rose wines. Instead, this is the land of silky-smooth, world-class reds, delicious, distinct dessert wines and under-the-radar white wines, which you can read more about in a few weeks. But add to that impressive list rose wines as well. This particular gem from Haut-Brion dances on your taste buds right from the start. Crisp, dry, sea salt flavors with a mineral-like finish and floral aromas make this subtle rose perfect for any warm afternoon or crisp, cool evening.

Cheers!

May 15, 2023

Circulation: 271,569 Digital

The perfect bunch of roses for Mother’s Day

Haykey Hamilton Cogill

Happy Mother’s Day! We raise our glass to all of the moms of children who walk on two legs or four. And that glass is brimming full of the dry Rosé wines of the season.

The new vintages are just beginning to be released, so we will suggest many more options throughout the summer, but for now, these are the Rosé wines we know mom will love any time of year.

Chateau la Rame Rosé from Bordeaux is light and elegant. A blend of half Merlot and half Cabernet Sauvignon, the fruity, floral, refreshing wine with layers of ripe peaches, soft herbs, and ripe watermelon. We love it paired with a Caprese or Nicoise salad.

Press Releases

Bordeaux Offers Unexpected Rosé & Crémant Styles as Region Produces a Growing Range of New Wave Wines

BORDEAUX, FRANCE (PRWEB) APRIL 17, 2023 Bordeaux winemakers are offering a new wave of wine styles that represent an unexpected discovery for trade and consumers more often familiar with the region’s celebrated reds. These include Bordeaux rosé, crémant blanc (sparkling white wine) and crémant rosé (sparkling rosé), categories that have grown in popularity as young and innovative winemakers highlight new expressions with historic varieties. Adding to their appeal, Bordeaux rosé and crémant wines represent high quality-to-value for consumers looking for the latest offerings.

Bordeaux offers a full and varied selection of rosé and crémant from three appellations: AOC Rosé de Bordeaux, AOC Bordeaux Clairet and AOC Crémant de Bordeaux. Of the various styles, Bordeaux rosé accounted for 19.1 million bottles in 2022; white crémant for 8 million bottles; crémant rosé for 4 million bottles; and Clairet for 2 million bottles. Located near the cool influence of the Atlantic, Bordeaux’s regional appellations encompass a wide variety of soils and microclimates that support an exceptional range to cater to many consumer preferences.

BORDEAUX ROSÉ: AN UNEXPECTED WAY TO DISCOVER BORDEAUX

The new wave of Bordeaux rosés offers a collection of bright, lively, fruity and elegant wines. Bordeaux rosés have many appealing characteristics, such as a pale pink color with notes of red fruit and a full breadth on the palate. Rosé production in Bordeaux makes up 10,378 acres (7 acres per estate on average), managed by 1,220 winegrowers, merchants and cooperative cellars backed by generations of family history. The Entre-deux-Mers region represents more than 70% of Bordeaux rosé production. Bordeaux produced 161,000 hectoliters (22 million bottles) of rosé in 2021. Bordeaux rosés are predominantly blended, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as their most represented grapes. Similar to the vinification of the region’s popular dry white wines, whole or destemmed grape bunches are directly pressed with minimum skin contact to retain aromatic, lightly-hued rosés that are ideal for drinking within two years.

Clairet is produced exclusively in the unique appellation of AOC Bordeaux Clairet. Produced since the 15th century, Clairet is considered the ancestor of Bordeaux rosé, and is currently produced by 156 winegrowers across 1,111 acres. Noteworthy for their depth and deep-pink color, Clairet wines are made with longer skin contact resulting from at least 24 to 48 hours of maceration time as compared to other rosés. The resulting product combines the light tannins of red wine with the freshness of rosé. Bordeaux rosé is a versatile style that complements many food pairings from light appetizers and seafood, to charcuterie, pizza and fruity desserts.

BORDEAUX CRÉMANTS: A FANTASTIC SUCCESS STORY

Crémant de Bordeaux has presented a compelling success story as production has tripled over the last decade. Though two-thirds of overall crémant production is white, crémant rosé has drawn a stronger demand: Crémant rosé has seen a 387% increase (from 800,000 bottles to 4 million) in the past ten years, while white crémant has grown 343% (1.8 million bottles to 8 million). Crémant blanc production in Bordeaux spans 240 winegrowers across 2,243 acres, while crémant rosé spans 100 winegrowers across 630 acres. Bordeaux’s crémants are made in both white and rosé styles, offering a diverse range of sparkling wines from regional appellations. Although Bordeaux has a long history of crémant production dating back to the 1800s, the Crémant de Bordeaux appellation was officially established in 1990, making it one of the region’s youngest.

Now, a new generation of Bordeaux winemakers is reinventing the traditions of Crémant de Bordeaux by adding a touch of modernity, festivity and accessibility. Styles include blanc de blancs (crémant made exclusively from white grapes) and blanc de noir (crémant made exclusively from red grape varieties with white grape juice). Crémants can be produced from all Bordeaux grape varieties and are primarily made from red Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, and white Muscadelle, Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. A global leader in winemaking sustainability practices, Bordeaux rosé and crémant categories offer consumers many environmentally friendly wine options. 75% of the Bordeaux vineyard area is covered by a certified environmental approach, and many wines are certified as Organic, High Environmental Value (HVE), Demeter (biodynamic), or Terra Vitis.

April 19, 2023

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Bordeaux Offers Unexpected Rosé & Crémant Styles as Region Produces a Growing Range of New Wave Wines

Bordeaux winemakers are offering a new wave of wine styles that represent an unexpected discovery for trade and consumers more often familiar with the region’s celebrated reds. These include Bordeaux rosé, crémant blanc (sparkling white wine) and crémant rosé (sparkling rosé), categories that have grown in popularity as young and innovative winemakers highlight new expressions with historic varieties. Adding to their appeal, Bordeaux rosé and crémant wines represent high quality-to-value for consumers looking for the latest offerings.

Bordeaux offers a full and varied selection of rosé and crémant from three appellations: AOC Rosé de Bordeaux, AOC Bordeaux Clairet and AOC Crémant de Bordeaux. Of the various styles, Bordeaux rosé accounted for 19.1 million bottles in 2022; white crémant for 8 million bottles; crémant rosé for 4 million bottles; and Clairet for 2 million bottles. Located near the cool influence of the Atlantic, Bordeaux’s regional appellations encompass a wide variety of soils and microclimates that support an exceptional range to cater to many consumer preferences.

BORDEAUX ROSÉ: AN UNEXPECTED WAY TO DISCOVER BORDEAUX

The new wave of Bordeaux rosés offers a collection of bright, lively, fruity and elegant wines. Bordeaux rosés have many appealing characteristics, such as a pale pink color with notes of red fruit and a full breadth on the palate. Rosé production in Bordeaux makes up 10,378 acres (7 acres per estate on average), managed by 1,220 winegrowers, merchants and cooperative cellars backed by generations of family history. The Entre-deux-Mers region represents more than 70% of Bordeaux rosé production. Bordeaux produced 161,000 hectoliters (22 million bottles) of rosé in 2021.

Bordeaux rosés are predominantly blended, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as their most represented grapes. Similar to the vinification of the region’s popular dry white wines, whole or destemmed grape bunches are directly pressed with minimum skin contact to retain aromatic, lightly-hued rosés that are ideal for drinking within two years. Clairet is produced exclusively in the unique appellation of AOC Bordeaux Clairet. Produced since the 15th century, Clairet is considered the ancestor of Bordeaux rosé, and is currently produced by 156 winegrowers across 1,111 acres. Noteworthy for their depth and deep-pink color, Clairet wines are made with longer skin contact resulting from at least 24 to 48 hours of maceration time as compared to other rosés. The resulting product combines the light tannins of red wine with the freshness of rosé. Bordeaux rosé is a versatile style that complements many food pairings from light appetizers and seafood, to charcuterie, pizza and fruity desserts.

BORDEAUX CRÉMANTS: A FANTASTIC SUCCESS STORY

Crémant de Bordeaux has presented a compelling success story as production has tripled over the last decade. Though two-thirds of overall crémant production is white, crémant rosé has drawn a stronger demand: Crémant rosé has seen a 387% increase (from 800,000 bottles to 4 million) in the past ten years, while white crémant has grown 343% (1.8 million bottles to 8 million). Crémant blanc production in Bordeaux spans 240 winegrowers across 2,243 acres, while crémant rosé spans 100 winegrowers across 630 acres.

Bordeaux’s crémants are made in both white and rosé styles, offering a diverse range of sparkling wines from regional appellations. Although Bordeaux has a long history of crémant production dating back to the 1800s, the Crémant de Bordeaux appellation was officially established in 1990, making it one of the region’s youngest. Now, a new generation of Bordeaux winemakers is reinventing the traditions of Crémant de Bordeaux by adding a touch of modernity, festivity and accessibility. Styles include blanc de blancs (crémant made exclusively from white grapes) and blanc de noir (crémant made exclusively from red grape varieties with white grape juice). Crémants can be produced from all Bordeaux grape varieties and are primarily made from red Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, and white Muscadelle, Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. A global leader in winemaking sustainability practices, Bordeaux rosé and crémant categories offer consumers many environmentally friendly wine options. 75% of the Bordeaux vineyard area is covered by a certified environmental approach, and many wines are certified as Organic, High Environmental Value (HVE), Demeter (biodynamic), or Terra Vitis.

Organic Placements

August 3, 2023

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Pessac-Léognan: Setting the pace

Elin McCoy

Home to one first growth and some of France’s finest red and white wines, Pessac-Léognan is still not nearly as well known internationally as its superstar neighbour regions. But exciting new developments suggest this could be set to change.

March was a starry month for Bordeaux’s Pessac-Léognan, but most wine lovers didn’t even realise it. Backstage at the glamorous 95th Academy Awards ceremony in Hollywood, nominees and winners sipped La Clarté de Haut-Brion, a white wine made by first growth Château Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan. Yet few wine lovers outside France know that appellation name, or that in 1987 it was carved from the northern part of the wider Graves region south of Bordeaux.

Wildly energetic Jacques Lurton, who became the president of the Syndicat de Pessac-Léognan last year, aims for global awareness. He says: ‘I want to shake the tree. Pessac-Léognan should be one of the best-known names in Bordeaux, like Margaux in the Médoc and St-Emilion on the Right Bank. Our identity is our wines’ high quality. Our style is elegance and balance, not excess.’

You could argue it’s the most dynamic wine spot in Bordeaux. A recently opened cellar is the region’s ultimate in ecoconsciousness. Winemakers are experimenting with new grapes and wines. A vibrant tourism scene includes Bordeaux’s first ‘forest bathing’ tasting, and much more.

Lurton likes to talk about the future, but Pessac also has a long, illustrious wine history, and for centuries was more important than the Médoc. The warm local climate, partly shaped by the pine forests sheltering vines from wind and humidity, and a

range of terroirs make it special for both reds and whites. Yet it was only Château Haut-Brion in this region that was classified in the 1855 classification. The Crus Classés de Graves, a group of 16 top châteaux, wasn’t created until 1953. All are in Pessac-Léognan.

Lurton’s father André, who died in 2019, fought to establish the appellation. Now, after spending 20 years making wine all over the globe before returning to his Bordeaux roots to run Vignobles André Lurton, Jacques Lurton is presiding over an appellation in the throes of change. Here’s what’s new.

The ultimate eco-cellar

Nothing symbolises today’s environmental era in Pessac-Léognan better than the gorgeous innovative chai at Château Haut-Bailly, which opened to visitors in 2021. Grand architectural-statement cellars dot Bordeaux, but Haut-Bailly’s looks like a tree- and shrub-covered hillock that blends into, rather than dominates, the landscape.

It’s constructed in the shape of a circle, the best way, says managing director Véronique Sanders, to match a building with the land. Two-thirds is underground; a curved window like an eye lets in natural light. Above the domed ceiling a roof garden, with dogwood, pine trees, plants and grasses able to survive without extra watering, keeps the cellar temperature stable. The Jardin du chai won a silver medal at the Victoires du Paysage 2022, a national competition that rewards the most beautiful landscaping of the year.

‘It’s also a cellar for tomorrow, able to cope with climate change,’ explains Sanders. Like the appellation’s other recently opened cellars, at Châteaux Latour-Martillac and La Garde, it’s designed for precision winemaking with small vats, to save energy, and to conserve water and recycle waste.

Wine discoveries

The region’s white wines typically feature Sauvignon Blanc solo or blended with fuller-bodied Semillon, and sometimes Sauvignon Gris or Muscadelle. But there’s a new fascination with Semillon, which requires warmer temperatures so is well suited to a changing climate.

At Château Latour-Martillac, Semillon is the historical variety, with many different clones preserved in the property’s oldest plot. The Kressmann family spent more than a decade identifying the best three for a tiny parcel, whose grapes first went into the 2014 vintage.

Lurton is also a fan, for Semillon’s ability to age, and for its Bordeaux origins. He’s started planting Semillon at his Châteaux La Louvière and Rochemorin and launched a varietal example under his new brand Diane.

Pessac-Léognan reds are generally blends of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot, but Château La Garde, owned by Maison Dourthe, has launched a new Mosaic line of single-varietal wines from single terroirs, available to buy at the property. The numerous vats in its brand-new cellar enable the separate vinification of grapes from its vineyard’s 27 soil types. And in its new tasting room, you can purchase a collector box of six of those wines with art labels: Merlot on gravels, Merlot on limestone, Merlot on clay, Merlot on clay and limestone, Cabernet Sauvignon on deep gravels, and Cabernet Sauvignon on gravel and clay.

As in other parts of Bordeaux, châteaux are ageing some wines in clay amphorae. At La Garde, global brand director Valentin Jestin says using them for the new varietal line ensures that the purity of the fruit will reveal the true character of the terroir.

The ever-innovative Lurton, too, is playing around with terroir and amphorae at Château Couhins-Lurton with two new wines called Acte II. For the white (100% Sauvignon Blanc), he selects clay and gravel plots whose characteristics are different from those used for the grand vin, and ferments and ages it mostly in horizontal sandstone amphorae, using 70% amphora and 30% barrel. The Château Couhins-Lurton regular white reverses the percentages.

The new tourism

The first time I visited Château La Mission HautBrion’s famous vineyard, I was taken aback by how urban it was: streets, houses, schools and city buildings surrounded it. But as wine tourism booms, Pessac-Léognan is pushing its proximity to downtown Bordeaux as a plus that offers city visitors easy access to nature.

Wine lovers can hop on a tram or bus, ride a few stops, and be a short walk from Châteaux Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pape Clément and several others with gorgeous gardens and vineyards to stroll in. At Pape Clément, you can (since 2017) purchase olive oil from the estate’s thousandyear-old olive trees.

One of the most intriguing new nature and wine experiences is Château Olivier’s Bain de Forêt, or forest bathing. Inspired by Japanese sylvotherapy, the estate initiated it last year, with the aim of helping visitors discover the château’s vast park of century-old trees. Jean Clauzel, the château’s head of oenotourism, says: ‘The immersion is walking and soaking up the forest as far as the eye can see to experience a real moment of escape.’ The guided tours include feeling tree bark and walking without shoes, and culminate in a tasting of the château’s white wine.

Starting this spring, Châteaux Carbonnieux and Larrivet Haut-Brion have joined La Bulle Verte low-carbon wine road, which is an itinerary for tastings, lunches and outdoor picnics that you can explore on foot or with electric bikes or scooters.

Almost all of the region’s 75 châteaux are family-owned, and today’s innovative tourism culture owes a lot to the new generation. At Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, the three daughters in the Gervoson family are behind a series of unusual projects, including a collection of painted concrete eggs, a chance to create your own wine blend, escape games in the cellar and, this summer, Saturday morning yoga.

The first in modern Pessac-Léognan to understand the importance of wine tourism was the Cathiard family of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, whose luxury hotel Les Sources de Caudalie has just been completely refurbished. They have also launched a label in the Napa Valley, earlier this year. The newest luxury place to stay, though, is Château Léognan, which opens this summer with glamorous rooms in the château, tower and renovated stables, featuring views of surrounding pine forests, and unique cabins and treehouses in the heart of the woods.

Climate change and sustainability

Lurton, like other château owners, feels the most important challenge for Pessac-Léognan is finding ways to fight climate change. The eco-pioneer is Château Smith Haut Lafitte, which has long farmed organically (officially certified in 2019) and biodynamically, and boasts a ‘stealth winery’ (Chai Furtif – dedicated to the estate’s young vines) which houses the world’s first system to recycle CO2 from fermentation. This year the Cathiards have added the first llamas to munch grass between the vines.

Organic vineyards are increasing; others moving that way include Château de Fieuzal and Domaine de Chevalier. Nontraditional grape varieties are also on the rise, with adaptation to a changing climate in mind. At Pape Clément, drones now measure water stress and vine health, while robots routinely weed vineyards.

But the key centre for research in Pessac-Léognan is cru classé Château Couhins, owned by a research institute. INRA, the French National Institute for Agricultural Research, acquired it in 1968 as an experimental site. It developed a ‘GreenSeeker’ sensor to assess and map vines’ vigour plant by plant. They’re studying ways rootstocks and varieties interact and testing 52 grapes’ adaptation to climate change. So far, says château director Dominique Forget, whites that show promise include Petite Arvine, Roussanne, Chenin Blanc and even Assyrtiko.

For Pessac-Léognan, the future looks bright.

Defining a region: McCoy’s pick of 12 from Pessac-Léognan

Château Puyanché Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2015 + Bees, Bats, and Trees

Jo Diaz

Grand Vin de Bordeaux A.O.C. Francs Cotes de Bordeaux is 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon The alcohol is 14.5 percent. There is no grand story on this bottle of the wine’s back label. But, a grand story for me is that this bottle is already eight years old, so my curiosity was piqued to know more, and to take my time getting to know it, and also more about Bordeaux

On the Right Bank, the Puyanché family estate has been five generations in the making. It all began with Amand Puyanché, Bernadette Puyanché of today’s great-great grandfather. In 1914, Amand moved his wife and daughter to a small property in Francs, France, wanting to start a vineyard. This was just before WW I was declared, on July 28, 1914. Armand put his plans on hold for his vineyard dream. And, he unfortunately met an untimely death on May, 3, 1917, at Chemin des Dames, in Craonnelle, only a week after the battle is said to have ended. They are located on the Right Bank.

From WW I summary: World War I, also known as the Great War, began in 1914 after the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria. His murder catapulted into a war across Europe that lasted until 1918. During the conflict, Germany, Austria-Hungary, Bulgaria and the Ottoman Empire (the Central Powers) fought against Great Britain, France, Russia, Italy, Romania, Canada, Japan and the United States (the Allied Powers).

Battle of the Chemin des Dames is April 16, 1917: On the occasion of the fiftieth anniversary of the Battle of the Chemin des Dames, a look back at this terrible offensive which caused thousands of deaths. Commentary on an aerial view and images of the military cemeteries and tombs, of Craonne, a village destroyed during the battle, from the viewpoint of the Napoleon observatory, the dragon cave and the war memorials of the 164th division, from the farm of Hurtebise and the monument of the Basques, or memorial of the 36th infantry division, located in Craonnelle.

Armand’s daughter Amande was raised by a wealthy wine producing family, who lived nearby. Amande and her husband inherited a large property, but unable to make a profit producing wine, they sold a large part of the vineyard. They worked the remaining land, joined a co-operative, and used the store houses as farm animal shelters and storage.

“Their son Andre succeeded them and ceaselessly redeemed the parcels of land that his parents had sold, while remaining with the co-operative.Little by little he reconstructed the vineyard.When Andre’s daughter Bernadette inherited the vineyard she decided, along with her husband Joseph, to leave the co-operative, build a storehouse and committed them to Amand’s original project. Their first chateau they called Chateau Puyanche in memory of Amand.”

The family has completed their great grandfather’s dream as a success story, as evidenced by this wine sample I received. Opening it was joyful with anticipation, the boysenberry aromas wafted through the room, and then to attach their history, culture, and commitment to creating a world class wine! I’m sure that Armand would never have seen this moment in time coming. To have a dream, then to be embroiled in a world war, only to lose his life at the tail end of the battle… In my humble opinion, I truly believe that DNA has a trickle down effect, keeping his dream alive.

From the winery:

• APPELLATION: Francs côtes de Bordeaux

• VINEYARD AREA: Red varieties: 8 ha

• SOIL: Limestone and clay

• GRAPE VARIETIES: 80% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon

• Pruning: guyot double.

• Plantation density: 4,500 trucks/ha.

• AGE OF VINEYARD: Red part: 20 to 40 years old

• VINEYARD CULTURE: Sustainable agricultural practices, Plant and maintain vineyard ground cover, Leaves removal on 2 faces

• WINEMAKING PROCESS: Hard selection in the press house, 3 to 4 weeks in stainless tanks, Ageing in tanks during 18 months

• ANNUAL PRODUCTION: Red :50 000 bottles (divide by 12 bottles per case = 4,166 cases

Deuxième Partie ~ Bees, Bats, and Trees

Or, how to sustain nature and civilization… In 2017, studies in Bordeaux confirms that bats are predators of moths in vineyards. By 2019, following studies were about the impact of their bats.There is a great diversity of their bats predating their vine pests, with 19 of the 22 species listed in Gironde being active in the vineyards. There are about 10 species being very regular in the vineyards. And, a bat eats between 500 to 1,500 insects per night (more like 2,000 for suckling bats).

Brianne Cohen I Wine Educator & Writer she/herjhers Entrepreneur

WSET Diploma

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Highlighting Diverse-Owned Brands / @decanter @monarch.wine

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thevintnerproject L'intendant - One of the grandest wine stores in the world

As you step through the doors of L'intendant, a grand sight awaits: a stunning central staircase spirals up 5 floors, with cylindrical shelves allaround it lined with 20,000+ bottles of Bordeaux. On the ground floor you'll findhalf-bottlesand wallet-friendly wines, while ascending to the next level reveals bourgeois crusand second wines - perfect for those who want to splurgejust a little bit.

The third floor offers classified wines from Medoc, aswell as stellar reds from Saint-Emilion, Pomerol and PessacLeognan. Finally, the fourth level is where you'll discover an amazingselectionof largeformat bottles, alongwith some oldervintagesthat can go back as faras the 1940s!

!?Questionof the Day!? What's yourfavoritewine shop? Tag them in the comments below II

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The Vintage

By Shana Clarke

Château Haut-Meyreau

Le Gendre Malbec Winemaker Hugues Laborde likes pushing boundaries, regularly playing with nontraditional techniques and varieties in his cellar. Among his experiments is this fresh, lively, certified sustainable malbec. The wine’s bright red fruits, peppery spice, and silky texture show another side of Bordeaux’s often powerful style.

$11, invindia.fr

Château Siozard Ipsum Malbec

As twins, David and Laurent Siozard know what it’s like to crave a unique identity; with their Ipsum line of certified organic wines, they profile each of Bordeaux’s grapes in its own varietal bottling. The malbec comes from a 7.4-acre plot in their Le Claouset vineyard and offers notes of blackberry, violet, and clove. $14, vignoblessiozard.com

Bordeaux Breakout

Vignobles Carreau Sélection Le Terrier Malbec

Sébastien and Nicolas Carreau oversee their family’s historic estates, and the fruit for their malbec comes from a certifiedsustainable parcel named Terrier (French for “burrow”) in honor of its resident bunnies. With its notes of plum and graphite and its robust tannins, it’ll put a hop in your step. $19, carreau.wine

Up until the end of the 19th century, malbec was the most cultivated grape variety in Bordeaux. Disease and poor rootstocks decimated the vines, but in recent years plantings have doubled, and while malbec has always played a role in the region’s signature blends, many winemakers are now giving the grape a solo stage. Here are six bottles to try.

Château Les Ricaudelles Malbec

After purchasing a property in Caplong nearly a decade ago, Sophie and Eric Meynaud replanted most of the vineyard with malbec (also known as côt), and changed farming practices to achieve High Environmental Value Level 3 certification, which helps them make this spice-driven, focused wine. $13, eric-meynaud.com

Famille

Bouey Malbec Origine

You know a wine company is attuned to trends when it partners with Pantone on the hue of its rosé, as family-owned Bouey did with its Colors collection. Could malbec be the next big thing for this historic producer?

This ripe, structured wine with notes of violet and mocha makes the case. $30, famillebouey.fr

Tutiac Origines Ter Pointe Malbec

Côtes de Bourg has become the center of malbec research, with clones from France and Argentina taking over the appellation’s vineyards. If this structured number with black cherry and cocoa aromas is any indication, wines from this region are set to rise to the top of the class(ification).

$17, eboutiquetutiac.com

July 10, 2023

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When the Climate Doesn’t Cooperate, Winemakers Innovate

Kathleen Willcox

Opulent, high-ABV cabs were cool (especially in Napa) until they weren’t. It’s unclear when the tipping point was, but the trendy wine bars pushing lush cabernet sauvignon a decade ago are now shilling bubbles and chillable, light reds.

As climate change and warming trends result in increasingly high-ABV wines worldwide but consumers are seeking out lighter and fresher flavors vintners are finding ways to deliver, despite the considerable challenges.

Throwing Shade in Bordeaux

At Château Anthonic, an organic 100-acre winery in Moulis-en-Médoc, Bordeaux, owner Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier has seen how climate change has impacted his wine firsthand.

“I’ve managed the estate since 1993, and in those earlier years, it was exceptional to have more than 12.5-13% ABV wines,” says Cordonnier. “Today, the exception is to have lower than 13–13.5% ABV. This is due to climate change.”

Other issues include a rise of spring frosts and vintages with more unexpected extreme weather like hail and drought, he says. All of these factors damage and lower the harvest levels.

But in 2011, he stumbled upon a solution that is holding the wine in comparably good stead.

“We planted our first hedge in 2011, and unconsciously started our journey into agro-forestry,” Cordonnier explains. “The impact of that hedge was so spectacular on biodiversity, we decided to build, as fast as possible, a network of four kilometers [2.5 miles] of hedges. The idea was to create wildlife corridors, but we saw that they also protected our vineyards somewhat from hail, drought, and frost.”

In 2017, Cordonnier decided to add cover crops and actual trees within the vineyard itself.

“Trees, at a density of 40 per hectare [2.5 acres] host mycorrhizae [fungi that have a symbiotic relationship with plant roots], which builds a connected network of biomass between the hedges, trees, vines, and cover crop,” he says. Together, the biomass and the presence of trees increase biodiversity, improve the drainage capacity of the vineyard, protect and improve the health of the soil, and provide a natural air-conditioning system for the vineyard thanks to the trees’ shade.

Cordonnier says that the trees decrease the maximum temperature between 2 and 5 degrees Celsius (or between 3.6–9 degrees Fahrenheit) during a heat wave.

The proof, Cordonnier says, is in the wine that is emerging from the vineyard.

“We have less problems than colleagues limiting the ABV now, so our wines show more fruit, freshness, and acidity,” he says.