









THANK YOU for picking up a copy of the 2023 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the 10th year our team has had the privilege of publishing this travel guide. It has been published each year since 1984, and approximately 85,000 copies are distributed. I’d like to thank Wendy Little and all the Texas Mountain Trail board members for their commitment to the travel guide and for the opportunity given to our team to publish it.
I love to travel throughout the area, and even before I became the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for anyone wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll find information on various parks (state and national), as well as a city-by-city guide. In addition, we put together a feature story this year on many of the biggest/highest highlights in the Texas Mountain Trail region (see page 74). The allure of the Big Bend region is strong, and whether you’re a first-time or repeat visitor, I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas.
We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some of them on this page, but in particular I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, David Loyola, who I’ve worked with for several years but for the first time on the travel guide. As far as my background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the publisher and founder of Texas Music magazine, I also produce Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon, Marfa and Terlingua. Our music festival is the last weekend of July each year.
I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank you for reading the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails!
— Stewart Ramser, PublisherWELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West Texas! Enjoy our charming frontier communities, historic sites, cultural attractions and events, colorful sunsets and friendly people!
Our Texas Mountain Trail nonprofit organization is proud to present the latest edition of the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide with Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most out of your stay.
Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out to travelers with information about far West Texas, encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our mountains. Make your stay even better with the Texas Mountain Trail Passport. Visit your favorite places, get your passport stamped, and win prizes! On page 13 you will find a QR code where you can access the passport, or you can also go to MountainTrailAdventures.com to request or download one.
Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure, and have the time of your life!
— Wendy Little
David G. Loyola is the designer for Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide
Born near El Paso, he now lives with his family in McAllen, where he works as a graphic designer specializing in editorial art direction and branding design. Along with his wife and two young children, he enjoys exploring this beautiful state.
Lee Hoy is a professional photographer and the owner of Big Bend Birding & Photo Tours. His mission is to share the beauty of Big Bend National Park and the surrounding region with others. Lee first went to Big Bend in August 1989 and saw a Canyon Towhee, which ignited a passion for birding and bird photography.
Christina Hubbartt is an Austin based photographer who spent her childhood abroad in Europe, Central America and the Pacific. This ignited a desire to document everything
and share with others her adventures. When she’s not collecting dirt from all of her travels, she and her partner enjoy cooking, hiking, camping and exploring their favorite park, Big Bend.
Robert Alvarez (Chair)
Randall
Village Tourist Camp and Market, Fort Davis
Abby
Chris Ruggia (Secretary)
Veronica
Starvanna
David Elkowitz (ex officio)
Danielle Brisette (ex officio)
Rick Gupman (ex officio)
BLACK-EYED PEA COOKOFF
Starlight Theatre parking lot
Terlingua Always on Jan. 1 See p. 58 for details
BIG BEND ULTRA
Big Bend Ranch State Park bigbend50.com 2023 Date: Jan. 15
THEATRE OF THE BIG BEND Sul Ross State University Alpine sulross.edu/news/tag/theatre-ofthe-big-bend 2023 Dates: TBA
FRONTIER DAYS Downtown Van Horn vanhorntexas.org 2023 Dates: TBA
CYCLEFEST
Prude Ranch Fort Davis pbbatx.com/cyclefest 2023 Dates: TBA See p. 38 for details
MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL
Presidio County Courthouse Marfa 2023 Dates: Sept. 2-4 See p. 50 for details
MARATHON FISH FRY
Community Center Marathon marathontexas.com 2023 Date: Feb. 11 See p. 45 for details
EL PASO MARATHON
El Paso elpasomarathon.org 2023 Date: Feb. 12
LONE STAR COWBOY POETRY GATHERING
Sul Ross State University Alpine lonestarcowboypoetry.com 2023 Dates: Feb. 17-18 See p. 27 for details
EL PASO CHIHUAHUAS
BASEBALL
Southwest University Park El Paso milb.com/el-paso 2023 Dates: March 31 through September
“COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY CELEBRATION
Downtown Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2023 Dates: July 1-2 See p. 38 for details
MARATHON INDEPENDENCE DAY CHILI COOK-OFF AND DANCE Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2023 Dates: July 4 See p. 44 for details
VIVA BIG BEND Alpine, Marfa, Marathon, Fort Davis and Terlingua vivabigbend.com 2023 Dates: July 26-30
TEXAS STAR PARTY
Prude Ranch near Fort Davis texasstarparty.org 2023 Dates: May 14-21 See p. 38 for details
ALPINE COWBOYS
BASEBALL
Kokernot Field Alpine alpine.pecosleague.com 2023 Dates: late May through July See p. 27 for details
BIG BEND RANCH RODEO S.A.L.E. Arena Alpine bigbendranchrodeo.com 2023 Dates: August 11-12 See p. 27 for details
DAVIS MOUNTAINS HUMMINGBIRD CELEBRATION
Fort Davis davismountainshummingbird celebration.com 2023 Dates: Aug. 17-20 See p. 38 for details
PRESIDIO’S MULTICULTURAL FESTIVAL Daly Park 2023 Date: Sept. 9 See p. 54 for details
TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS Museum of the Big Bend Alpine museumofthebigbend.com Opening weekend: Sept. 14-16 See p. 27 for details
WEST FEST CABRITO COOKOFF AND DANCE Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2023 Dates: Sept. 15-16 See p. 44 for details
TRANS-PECOS FESTIVAL OF MUSIC + LOVE El Cosmico Marfa elcosmico.com 2023 Dates: TBA See p. 50 for details
ULTIMATE FANDANGO
Various locations in Texas Mountain Trail Region ultimatefandango.com 2023 Dates: Sept. 27-Oct. 1
NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY
Big Bend National Park publiclandsday.org 2023 Date: Sept. 30 See p. 18 for details
BIG BEND OCTANE FEST Alpine & Big Bend Region thestablealpine.com 2023 Dates: Oct. 6-9
CHINATI WEEKEND Multiple venues Marfa chinati.org 2023 Dates: Oct. 6-8 See p. 50 for details
MARATHON 2 MARATHON Marathon marathon2marathon.com 2023 Date: TBA See p. 44 for details
TRANS-PECOS ULTRA Big Bend Ranch State Park trans-pecosultra.com 2023 Dates: Oct. 15-21
CROOKED CROW SONGWRITER’S RETREAT Chinati Hot Springs crookedcrow.net 2023 Dates: TBA
Santa
TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL
CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP
Rancho CASI de los Chisos casichili.net 2023 Dates: TBA See p. 58 for details
ARTWALK ALPINE Multiple venues Alpine artwalkalpine.com 2023 Dates: Nov. 17-18 See p. 27 for details
FRONTIER CHRISTMAS
Memorial Square & Nature Conservancy Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2023 Date: Dec. 2 See p. 38 for details
LIGHTED CHRISTMAS PARADE Convention Center Van Horn vanhorntexas.org 2023 Date: Dec. 2
ORIGINAL TERLINGUA CHILI COOK OFF Terlingua abowlofred.com 2023 Dates: Nov 1-4 See p. 58 for details
CHRISTMAS IN ALPINE Multiple venues Alpine visitalpinetx.com/events
2023 Dates: TBA
MARFA HOLIDAY BAZAAR
Multiple venues Marfa marfachamberofcommerce.org 2023 Dates: Dec. 8-10
FIESTA DE NOCHA BUENA
Main Street Marathon marathontexas.com
2023 Dates: TBA See p. 44 for details
ENCOMPASSING MORE THAN 800,000 ACRES OF MOUNTAIN CLIFFS, DESERT EXPANSES AND TOWERING RIVER CANYONS, BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK IS THE KING OF TEXAS’ NATIONAL PUBLIC AREAS AND WAS SELECTED FOR NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 'S "BEST OF THE WORLD" FOR 2023
Many features set Big Bend apart from its national park brethren, including the fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain range — the Chisos — within its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the Texas-Mexico border, where outstanding examples of Chihuahuan Desert topography and ecology beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world.
A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life across its dramatic range of elevations. From its lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents impressive changes in climate, with temperatures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees warmer than in the mountains.
Desert opportunities abound. Numerous trails — from short and very well developed to long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional views. Back-country roads lead to private back-country camping sites available for both drive-in and backpacking options with a permit. Historic sites and ruins are numerous. Opportunities for solitude are many.
Big Bend National Park is also arguably the most ecologically diverse park in the entire national parks system. It is known to have more species of birds, plants, butterflies, bats, reptiles and even ants than any other U.S. national park.
The Chisos Mountains offer high-elevation hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in the park LEE HOY
and some of the largest of their species in the country. Emory Peak Trail has dramatic views of both the south and north sides of the mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains, especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the arrival of the Colima Warbler. The only place that this bird is found in the U.S. is in the Chisos Mountains. Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy development boosts, including a newly rehabbed campground with much-improved facilities and new, night sky-friendly lighting. Also, visitors and campers alike can enjoy meals on the newly rehabbed porch at the lodge.
With over 150 miles of back-country dirt roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding are all popular options for exploring the park. Some of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain sun-
Visible for more than 10 miles, this iconic area of Big Bend features dramatic limestone canyon walls created over time by the mighty Rio Grande.
After an adventurous day in the park, soak your tired bones here, where the water remains at 105 degrees Fahrenheit year-round.
This new exhibit (opened January 2017) explores the area’s paleontological and geological past, complete with replicas of fossils found within the park.
This is a must-stop for firsttime visitors and those who haven’t been in a while. Get all fees, permits, maps and
more here, and take a break to check out the new 22-minute on-demand film detailing the wonders of the park.
Local outfitters provide guided trips along the Rio Grande, giving a whole new perspective to Big Bend National Park.
With more than 150 miles of hiking trails, Big Bend is a hiker’s paradise. Two highlights: the Lost Mine Trail, which is medium difficulty and offers breathtaking views beginning midway, and the Window View Trail, which is worth the effort to catch a glorious Big Bend sunset through the “window” in the Chisos Basin.
This mountainous area in the center of the park is the most popular portion, though some overlook it. The park’s only hotel and restaurant are in this
area, which is usually cooler than the surrounding desert, even during the summer.
This paved, 30-mile scenic drive showcases some of the best views in the park. There are many stops along the way, but don’t miss Sotol Vista with its satisfying overlook and view of the desert terrain, and Mule Ears, the perfect viewing area for another iconic sight in the park. A hiking trail to the formation starts from here as well.
HILLS
This unusual formation — a giant boulder inexplicably balanced between two gigantic rounded rocks — is a favorite spot for selfies.
Make the most of your visit to Big Bend National Park with a complimentary guided audio tour using your smartphone. Search “Just Ahead” in the App Store or on Google Play and look for the free “Big Bend” guide.
Vehicle: $30 for a 7-day pass good at any park entrance ($25 per motorcycle)
Individual: $15 for a 7-day individual pass (bicyclists and pedestrians)
Annual Pass: $55
Allows unlimited entry for one year from month of purchase.
The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $16 ($8 with Senior or Access pass).
Individual back-country campsites require a $10 permit ($5 with Senior or Access pass), which can be acquired at Panther Junction or Chisos Basin visitor centers in person or at www. recreation.gov. Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial groups, as well as interagency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or call (432) 477-2251.
set; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which offers some of the best birding in the region; and the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout Wells, featuring native plant life identified along this half-mile path.
The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena, Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip by raft, canoe or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multiday camping trips are available. Santa Elena is the most popular outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon walls. Boquillas is a two-night/three-day trip on average but great for families with its Class II or less rapids at average water levels and many side hiking opportunities.
There are three developed campgrounds in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood Campground, all with water,
restrooms and some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in the park with full hookups. Public showers and laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a first-come, first-served basis and fill up quickly in March, April and during the holiday season.
In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both the United States and Mexican governments. The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily closed the crossing, but it is once again open. While a travel advisory is in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, supportive law enforcement presence.
The Chisos Basin Lodge can be reached at (432) 477-2291 or www. chisosmountainslodge.com. A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15 to April 15. Call (877) 444-6777 or reserve online at www.recreation.gov. Visit www.nps.gov/bibe or call (432) 4772251 for more information. For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to www.visitbigbend.com (the most complete reference source for all things greater Big Bend and Brewster County).
NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY
National Public Lands Day is a nationwide celebration of our country’s public lands. Held the last weekend of September each year, the event brings thousands of people to parks across the country.
Located north of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,750 feet, visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With 46,850 acres of designated wilderness, and an additional 35,484 acres which are eligible for wilderness study, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area in the state of Texas.
Established on Sept. 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which stretches from Carlsbad, New Mexico, to the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest in the U.S. and third largest in North America and the world after White Sands National Monument, New Mexico, and Cuatrocienegas Natural Protected Area (Coahuila, Mexico).
Guadalupe Peak, and the surrounding Guadalupe Mountains, are part of an ancient marine fossil reef that was under the vast Delaware inland sea approximately 260 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around the world. In addition to the Guadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horseshoe-shaped El Capitán Reef is now exposed in the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the Apache Mountains. In the Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013 feet in elevation), educational videos and exhibits shed light on the geologic history of the park. Other exhibits showcase the abundant and diverse plant life and wildlife. Visitors may join a park ranger for an interpretive talk or walk on one the park’s trails.
Discover the cultural history of the park at one of the heritage sites, such as the recently restored Frijole Ranch House, Wil-
liams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or the Pinery Butterfield Overland Stage station. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur along the hiking trails, taking in views of everything from harsh desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands rich in oaks and maples.
Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow bigtooth maples in McKittrick Canyon, which peaks in late October. Fall color displays may also be seen at Smith Springs, Devil’s Hall and Dog Canyon. Families with children will find Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger, Wilderness Explorer Junior Ranger, Junior Ranger Night Explorer and Junior Paleontologist programs chock full of age-appropriate activities. The park website (www.nps.gov/gumo/) provides a schedule of park activities and updates on fall color showings to aid travelers in planning their visits.
A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 miles of trails, meandering through woodland canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog Canyon and the distinctive El Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet above sea level, is an imposing sentinel at the west end of the Guadalupes).
There are two short, easy hikes — the 0.4mile Manzanita Spring Trail or the 0.67-mile Pinery Trail — both of which are paved and
wheelchair accessible. Moderate trails, such as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies, including at least one gallon of water per person per day (one quart per hour if it is hot). Trekking poles are recommended.
Sixty percent of the park’s trails are available for horseback riding, though visitors must bring their own stock. Either by foot or horse, the park is a place to discover fossils and explore geologic and human history, observe native wildlife, view colorful wildflowers, capture great photos, create paintings or simply gaze into the wondrous, starfilled night sky.
Discover the park’s Native American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and pioneer ranching history at one of the well-preserved historic sites. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch History Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Anglo settlers,
including the Smith family, who operated their small truck farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery is one of the best-preserved and highest staging outposts on the Butterfield-Overland Route, which ran from St. Louis and Memphis to San Francisco from 1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The Pinery station ceased operations in August 1859, when the route was shifted southward to give it better protection from raids and provide better access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon may visit Pratt Cabin.
Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust for adventure can visit the historic Williams Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Before traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs Visitor Center to check out a gate key, and be aware that the drive, though only a little more than seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe Mountains National Park has two front-country campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds spread throughout the park. Obtain back-country camping permits at www.recreation.gov or the Pine Springs Visitor
Guadalupe Mountains National Park annual passes are $35 and cover up to four adult entrance fees. Seven-day permits are available at a rate of $10 per adult. Children under age 16 are free. Camping permits are $20 per site. Campsites for Pine Springs and Dog Canyon Campgrounds can be reserved at www.recreation.gov.
America the Beautiful annual passes are $80 (good for entry, as well as other services and discounts, at federal public lands). Senior Passes (age 62 or older) are $20 (annual) or $80 (lifetime). Lifetime America the Beautiful Access Passes are available free of charge to U.S. citizens with a qualifying permanent disability. Free America the Beautiful Military Passes may be obtained by active-duty military personnel (and dependents), veterans and Gold Star Family members. Free annual passes are also available to 4th Graders and volunteers with federal agencies.
More information available at: www.nps.gov/planyourvisit/passes.htm
Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”). Display your detachable stub on your vehicle dashboard.
Before you venture into the back country or before you leave to go back home, make sure to visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books about the park, maps or postcards. If you would like to spend more time helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers In Parks (VIP) program.
For more information about Guadalupe Mountains National Park, visit www.nps.gov/gumo/ or call (915) 828-3251 ext. 2124 for updated information.
ADDITIONAL INFO SOURCES: Facebook: facebook.com/Guadalupe.Mountains/ Twitter: twitter.com/GuadalupeMtnsNP/
The State Parks and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas mountains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring waters to lofty, mile-high peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museum-quality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did!
The largest state park in Texas, with more than 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.”
(432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations) www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ big-bend-ranch
Terlingua and Lajitas
The center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).
(432) 424-3327 www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ barton-warnock
Fort Davis Davis Mountains State Park, 2,709 acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis County, four miles northwest of
Fort Davis, approximately halfway between Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Big Bend National Park. The original portion of the park was deeded to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department by a local family. Original improvements were made by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933; the park has been open to the public since the late 1930s, and formal campground facilities were added in 1967.
The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were formed by volcanic activity during the Tertiary geologic period, which began about 65 million years ago. These mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and later president of the Confederacy, who ordered the construction of the Fort Davis army post. Few Americans had seen the Davis Mountains prior to 1846. After the war with Mexico, a wave of gold seekers, settlers and traders came through the area and needed the protection of a military post — Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from 1854 until 1891, except for certain periods during the Civil War. In 1961, the historic fort ruins were declared a National Historic Site, and a vast restoration and preservation program was initiated by the National Park Service.
(432) 426-3337 www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ davis-mountains
Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newly restored and furnished rooms, plus exhibits on the region’s history: from 15th-century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19th-century trading post to the present. The fort also serves as the western entrance for Big Bend Ranch State Park.
Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. 170 . (432) 229-3613 www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ fort-leaton
The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual pass that offers many special benefits to members. As a member, you and your guests enjoy unlimited visits to Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is $70 for a one-card membership. Learn more at: www.tpwd.texas.gov/ state-parks/park-information/passes/
STATE PARK El Paso
Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square-mile state park that sits on the northern edge of El Paso. Rock climbing is also popular in McKelligon Canyon or Sneed’s Cory.
(915) 444-9100 www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ franklin-mountains
VISIT: WWW.TPWD.TEXAS.GOV/ STATE-PARKS/ TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS.
The area that would one day be Alpine had been an encampment for Native Americans, and then a campsite for cattlemen until a town of tents was created, consisting of railroad workers and their families. They called their settlement Murphyville, and it remained as such for five years until a petition by townspeople rendered a name change.
At the time Murphyville became Alpine, there were already a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel, a rooming house, a livery stable, a butcher shop and a drugstore, which also housed the post office. Alpine grew very slowly until Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross State University) was opened in 1920. The opening of Big Bend National Park in the 1940s further spurred the growth of the town.
Now, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access to neighboring towns and attractions are only a few of the wonders that make Alpine a popular destination. Situ-
ated within the great Chihuahuan Desert between Big Bend National Park and the Davis Mountains, Alpine, with its treelined streets and university, is at the center of the Big Bend region.
As such, it serves as the transportation and service hub for far West Texas. In addition to the general aviation airport, Alpine-Casparis Municipal Airport, there is an Amtrak station and access to the area via Greyhound bus lines, delivering visitors to all Alpine has to offer.
The Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross is a favorite stop. For more than 70 years, the museum has collected and exhibited artifacts of the region, showcasing 11,000 years of human history and culture. Kids will enjoy seeing the large pterosaur reproduction and meeting “Big Ben,” a taxidermic, native black bear. The museum came to have him after he was struck by a car several years ago. He now serves as an important teaching tool to
the kids of the greater Big Bend area.
No matter what brings you here, Alpine is a great staging place for any far West Texas adventure. There are ample lodging and dining opportunities. See cowboys competing at rodeo events, watch professional baseball in a historic ballpark, and see summer theater productions under a roof of stars. The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering, Trappings of Texas, Artwalk, Viva Big Bend and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo are just five of the most popular annual events. Stroll through downtown to see murals, shops and quite often some live music.
But perhaps what will keep you coming back is the nearly idyllic climate. At 4,600 feet and perfectly situated between the Davis, Glass and Del Norte Mountains, you’ll be hard-pressed to find more moderate, yearround temperatures in all of Texas.
Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitor Center located at 106 N. 3rd St. www.visitalpinetx.com
Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas State University System. With an average undergraduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in liberal arts, science, fine arts or any number of professional studies programs, such as business administration or criminal law. www.sulross.edu
Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo settlers. The museum hosts the nationally recognized Trappings of Texas exhibit and sale and was a winner in the 2021 and 2022 Texas Travel Awards for Best Small Market Museum. Check the website or call (432) 8378730 for current hours of operation. www.museumofthebigbend.com
Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available.
As a Texas Music Friendly Community, Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under the stars and against the backdrop of the Davis Mountains at Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the nights lively. www.sulross.edu (Theatre of the Big Bend), visitalpinetx.com/events-calendar
For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley Field, this baseball diamond was built in the 1940s for the semi-pro Alpine Cowboys. The landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys.
Alpine boasts a growing collection of colorful murals celebrating regional themes. In addition to “Big Brewster” by Stylle Read (a long-time landmark at the Kiowa Gallery) and many other murals decorating the walls of downtown businesses, Alpine’s Artwalk recently unveiled another Stylle Read mural honoring Texas musicians at the PrintCo building. Alpine’s murals won the 2021 Texas Travel Awards in the category of Best Public Art Display (Small Market). www.visitalpinetx.com/murals
Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the surrounding area.
Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of Alpine.
Located immediately behind Sul Ross State University is Hancock Hill (it’s the one with the big “SR” on it!). Owned by the University but open to the public, Hancock Hill is a great place to hike for panoramic views of Alpine. If you’re up for exploring, on the eastern edge there is a desk which overlooks the valley below. It may be hard to find if you don’t know where you’re going, so if you need directions, stop by the Alpine Visitor Center.
Call or check websites for up-to-date information.
Alpine’s biggest festival for the arts spans two days in November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live music through the evenings. (210) 218-1144, www.artwalkalpine.com
With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field from late May through July are a refreshing event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s surrounding mountains. For more information go to alpine.pecosleague.com.
The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center stage at this rodeo in August. Ranchers from all over the state come to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills. (432) 294-1640, www.bigbendranchrodeo.com
The inaugural festival took place in early October 2022 and plans for the second annual event in 2023 are underway. Hosted by the Big Bend Bluegrass Association, the festival brings together music fans and musicians to celebrate and enjoy bluegrass, old-time and traditional gospel music.
The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event in February celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in poetry, stories and music. Enjoy more than 50 performers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State University’s campus. The event is formerly known as the Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering and was rebranded in 2020 by the new festival producers.
Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held in the fall at the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University, visitors and interested buyers can meet and visit with the artists and gear makers who have works for sale at the Museum and at the public auction fundraiser. www.museumofthebigbend.com
Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marfa, Terlingua and Marathon, VBB showcases more than 50 bands in 10 venues. Festival wristbands are good for all nighttime shows, and many of the shows during the day are free and open to the public. Additional information can be found at www.vivabigbend.com.
2600 N. Highway 118 (432) 837-3447
bigbendhealthcare.com
Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25bed, joint-commission-accredited, acute-care facility.
Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated emergency department and offers 24-hour emergency care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging, pharmacy, laboratory and surgical services.
BBT
808 N. 5th St. (800) 592-4781 bigbend.com
BBT (formerly Big Bend Telecom) offers internet and voice services. The service area includes Alpine, Big Bend National Park, Fort Davis, Fort Stockton, Lajitas, Marathon, Marfa, Presidio, Sanderson, Terlingua and more.
2600 East US-90 (432) 837-5792 outwestfeedandsupply.com
More than just a feed store, Out West has western wear, and all materials and supplies for farming, ranching and more.
511 W. Holland Ave. (432) 837-9789 thestablealpine.com
At the Stable Performance Cars, the performance- and classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere.
MTN.
2100 W. Hwy 90 (432) 837-5518 mtnviewproperties.com Mtn. View Properties specializes in the marketing and
sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial and ranch properties. They serve Brewster, Presidio, Jeff Davis, and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier real estate company of choice, they will assist you from beginning to end.
3
2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118 (866) 757-2382 sierralarana.com
Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized international dark sky community.
101 W Ave E. www.bigbendbikerhotel.com
POIMBEAUF/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS
REATA RESTAURANT
203 N. 5th Street (432) 837-9232 reata.net
The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted tenderloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas dining experience not to be missed.
SPICEWOOD RESTAURANT
2612 W. US-90 (432) 837-4227 qc7hotel.com Formerly Come and Take It BBQ, Spicewood Restaurant opened in 2019. On the western edge of town, the new owners (who also own the Quarter Circle 7 Hotel) have made upgrades to the building, including a new stage area.
HAMPTON INN
2607 W. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-7344 alpine.hamptoninn.com Indoor pool/spa, fitness room.
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES
2004 E. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-9597 holidayinnexpress.com Indoor pool, fitness room.
HOLLAND HOTEL
209 W. Holland Ave. (800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800 thehollandhoteltexas.com Recently renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost architecture.
THE
INN 1200 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-0628 themaverickinn.com
A roadhouse for wanderers: classic motor court, completely updated for the modern traveler.
2800 US-90 (432) 837-1100 qc7hotel.com Completely renovated recently.
lpine has long combined a laid-back, far West Texas vibe with a vibrant city, and its reputation as a unique tourist destination in the Big Bend region has been recognized by the Texas Travel Awards: Alpine took home wins in seven categories this year.
The Texas Travel Awards were established in 2021 to celebrate the top travel destinations and attractions across the state. An elite panel of judges, including industry professionals and travel journalists, decides the winners, though this year the public was asked to vote in four categories as well.
Alpine’s wins covered a range of categories, solidifying the “Hub of the Big Bend” as a can’tmiss destination for those eager to hit the open road seeking adventure and relaxation. There’s a reason some say “Austin is weird, but Alpine is far out.”
You don’t need to look hard for a reason to visit this charming, friendly town. Here are the events and attrac-
tions honored by this year’s Texas Travel Awards.
For nearly three decades, this free, two-day art and music festival has been held the weekend before Thanksgiving. Business locations throughout downtown Alpine host exhibits of local and visiting artists in an array of media, while street vendors lend a holiday atmosphere, lining the downtown streets with a variety of foods and crafts. Meanwhile, guests are entertained by dozens of live performances at multiple stages, with headlining bands taking over on the main stage as the night settles in.
The Museum of the Big Bend is a first-class institution in an entirely different league from your average small-town historical museum. A part of Sul Ross State University, the museum is housed in its original building on the SRSU STEWART RAMSER
campus, a stone WPA structure dating from the 1940s and immaculately renovated in the early 2000s. The exhibit quality is in keeping with its peers in much larger cities, and the content makes the Museum a must-see resource for first-time visitors to the region. Big Bend Legacy, the permanent exhibit, tells the story of the region’s prehistory and history thoughtfully and from multiple perspectives, while an annual calendar of seasonal art exhibits brings top-quality painting, photography and more to the region.
Under the Radar Activity (Small Market)
An inspired collaboration between the Alpine Historical Association and the Sul Ross State University theatre department, the Historic Alpine Ghost Tour is an educational and entertaining nighttime jaunt through downtown Alpine. The one-mile walking tour, enlivened by cameos from
ghostly actors, provides an entertaining local history lesson for ghost-chasers 8 years and older. The carefully curated tour combines local folklore and ghost stories, theater, comedy and the documented history of Alpine.
Sports Venue (Small Market)
Described by Sports Illustrated as the “Best Little Ballpark in Texas (or Anywhere Else),” Kokernot Field was constructed in 1947 by rancher Herbert Lee Kokernot Jr. for his semipro baseball team, the Alpine Cowboys. Kokernot spared no expense in building the magnificent park and historic landmark. Red clay for the infield was hauled in by boxcar from Georgia; native stone quarried from the Kokernot Ranch was used to construct the outfield wall and grandstand; and the Kokernot Ranch “o6” brand is incorporated into numerous decorations throughout the stadium along with intricate ironwork of baseballs (complete with painted threads).The field, which has a capacity of about 1,400, is now home to both the Alpine Cowboys of the Pecos League and the Sul Ross State University Lobos. Baseball legends like Norm Cash and Gaylord Perry once played here.
Hiking/Biking Trail (Statewide)
Just behind Mountainside Hall on the campus of Sul Ross State University is a path leading to the top of Hancock Hill, where, in 1981, three industrious students, seeking a quieter place to study, dragged a desk — complete with an office chair — which now awaits visitors willing to endure one of the most unique hiking experiences in Texas. The rocky and sometimes steep trails aren't particularly long, but they reward the visitor with fantastic views of Alpine and its surrounding desert mountain valley. Sign your name or write in one
of the sizable collection of notebooks.
Over the past 10 years, music lovers and adventure-seekers have made their way to far West Texas for a unique four-day festival that incorporates five diverse communities — including Alpine — and features approximately 50 acts across multiple venues. Viva Big Bend aims to celebrate the diversity of the Big Bend region, offering shows in Alpine, Marfa, Marathon, Fort Davis and Terlingua. “It’s the polar opposite of a festival where you have one big field with tens of thousands of people,” Alpine’s director of tourism, Christopher Ruggia, says. “On the surface, it might seem like a downside to travel 30 miles or more between venues, but every one of those roads is a beautiful driving experience — just gorgeous — so you become immersed in the landscape. The festival rewards visitors in that way.”
Travel/Destination Podcast (Statewide)
Hosted by Ruggia, this “little podcast from little old Alpine” (available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify and elsewhere) offers discussion and news on travel to Alpine and the Big Bend region. Topics include art, music, nature and community, as evidenced by previous episodes entitled “Visiting the Chicuahuan Desert Nature Center,” “Big Bend National Park Basics,” “The Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve” and “Trappings of Texas: A Talk with the Artists.” A new episode is available every other Friday.
El Paso’s gorgeous mountain landscape makes the perfect playground for adventure. Navigate your way through miles of trails and terrain and admire the endless bounds of natural beauty.
With more than 300 days of sunshine, the Sun City serves as a year-round site for outdoor adventure. Whether your plans involve an easy or challenging hike, bird watching, picnicking or rock climbing, El Paso has it all.
El Paso’s native friendliness, warm sunshine and untamed mountains will make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience.
World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Embark on a hike upon one of several trails or enjoy a selfguided tour and views of ancient pictographs. You may also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds. Call 915-857-1135 before visiting.
Annual Event: Hueco Tanks Community Fair (October)
Hike, bike and explore the 26,000 acres of rugged terrain within El Paso’s city limits. With endless trails, activities and sights to experience, the impressive state park offers something for outdoor adventure seekers of all levels.
Annual Events: Franklin Mountains Trail Run (January)
Puzzler Mountain Bike Race (January) Poppies Festival (March)
Explore the highest peak in Texas, natural beauty and winding trails a mere two hours away from El Paso. The Guadalupe Mountains make a worthwhile visit with captivating canyons and vistas stretching the park’s 86,000 acres.
High in the Davis Mountains and surrounded by unspoiled vistas of the Chihuahuan Desert, the charming little town of Fort Davis feels far removed from the rest of the world. The town stretches just one mile with most of the familyowned businesses centered around the county courthouse and along the main street (Highway 118). It has the feel of a western frontier town offering a retreat to a simpler past and a chance to soak in the natural surrounding beauty, abundant wildlife and rich history of the area.
Fort Davis takes its name from the military post established there in 1854 along the San AntonioEl Paso Road. The fort was manned by companies of the 8th U.S. Infantry to protect immigrants, freighters and mail coaches from raids by Apache and Comanche Indians in the area. Starting in 1867, the fort was home to four companies of the 9th U.S. Calvary —
African-American soldiers who became known as Buffalo Soldiers. Fort Davis soon became a major military installation, and the town grew right alongside it, boasting a dairy, lumberyard, bakery, furniture store, several hotels, a mercantile and saloons.
Even after the fort closed, the community of Fort Davis grew as a ranching center, and by the early 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild climate of the high desert during the summer. The intriguing history of the area drew more tourists with the designation of the fort as a National Historic Site in 1961. Many of its buildings have been restored, making it one of the best surviving examples of a frontier military post in the Southwest.
Stargazers, birdwatchers, cyclists and hikers have sought out the “Highest Town in Texas” for access to the McDonald Observatory and Davis Mountains State Park. More info at fortdavis.com.
Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2,700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking and nature study. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two scenic overlooks provide the perfect spots for star gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park, the historic, pueblo-style Indian Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park is open yearround, and full RV hookups are available.
A world leader in astronomical research, McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke and Fowlkes benefits from some of the darkest night skies in the nation.
Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. www.nps.gov/foda
On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the museum has displays and photographs depicting early life on the western frontier and features a restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open by appointment only. Call the Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce and visitor center, 432-426-3015.
Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910–1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style clock tower.
The Frank N. Bash Visitor Center hosts Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings and is the starting point for tours and other programs. Informative exhibits can be found at the visitor center along with a gift shop stocked with unique and educational keepsakes. Program capacities are limited and reservations are required. Check the website for public program times and passes: www.mcdonaldobservatory.org.
Fort Davis was one the most important posts in frontier defense in the late 1800s with its strategic location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso
The 507-acre Nature Center, an affiliate of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, features 20 acres of botanical gardens, a cactus and succulent greenhouse with over 150 species of plants, nearly five miles of hiking trails, including about one and one-half miles within the gardens, a geologic timeline with rock samples from the region, a Heritage Mining Exhibit, and the Powell Visitor Center, which includes exhibits and a gift shop. Modesta Canyon has a year-round spring, and Clayton’s Overlook has an impressive geologic display. There is a new bird blind with a 30-foot water feature, and shelter with side screens for additional viewing and photography. CDRI’s main fundraiser is a chuck wagon cookout and auction, which takes place in August. Located four miles SE of Fort Davis on Hwy. 118, the center is open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., and Sundays 12:30–5:30 p.m. (mid-March through October). www.cdri.org, (432) 364-2499
A 75-mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with plenty of spots to rest and picnic, including a large, pineshaded area with tables in Madera Canyon.
Check fortdavis.com/events for up-to-date details.
Hosted at the Historic Prude Ranch, which is a 3,500acre, mile-high ranch. The event includes local tours, talks and evening programs. www.texasstarparty.org
Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. www.pbbatx.com
Always the first full weekend of December, festivities include a Christmas parade, a cookie baking contest, photos with Santa, hay rides around historic Fort Davis and kids΄ holiday crafts.
Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the “coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, a 5K Fun Run, a grito and salsa competition, a cowboy hypnotist, live music, an array of vendors and a dance under the stars.
This four-day birding experience offers field trips to unique birding habitats, guest speaking events, workshops, garden tours, banding demonstrations and an outdoor banquet. Held every other August, birders and people who just love hummingbirds can explore the fascinating geology, flora and hummingbirds of the Davis Mountains Sky Islands. The next event is August 17-20, 2023. To register go to www.davismountainshummingbirdcelebration.com.
HOTEL LIMPIA
101 Memorial Square (432) 426-3237 hotellimpia.com
FORT DAVIS INN & R.V. PARK
2201 Texas 17 (800) 80-DAVIS fortdavisinn.com
MOUNTAIN TRAILS LODGE
501 S. Highway 118 (432) 426-3481 mountaintrailslodge.com Spend quality time with family and friends in our cozy cabins, and gather in the outdoor pavilion featuring gas grills, propane fire pit and games. Mountain Trails Lodge lies just off the scenic loop on the edge of town and boasts dark night skies for stargazing, sweeping views of the high desert mountains and abundant wildlife.
STONE VILLAGE TOURIST CAMP
509 State St. (432) 426-3941 stonevillagetouristcamp.com
HEBERT’S HEIRLOOMS & RESALE 1250 N. State St. (432) 426-3141 hebertsheirlooms@yahoo.com
BLUE MOUNTAIN BAR & GRILL 101 Memorial Square , next to Hotel Limpia (432) 426-3244
125 Blue Mountain Trail (432) 245-0750 chateauwright.com
FORT DAVIS DRUGSTORE 111 State St. (432) 426-3929 fddrugstore.com
STONE VILLAGE MARKET AND DELI 509 State St. (432) 426-3941 stonevillagetouristcamp.com Stone Village Market and Deli is any visitor’s “go to” for fresher, healthier choices in sandwiches, pre-packaged salads, soups, breads and baked goods. Located three blocks north of the courthouse. Dine in, sit out on the porch or picnic to go.
HEBERT’S CABOOSE ICE CREAM SHOP
1250 N. State St., (432) 426-3141 hebertscaboose@yahoo.com
KING LAND & WATER LLC 600 N. State St. (432) 426-2024 kinglandwater.com Offering unparalleled service for buyers and sellers of ranches, unique homes and conservation properties throughout the Lone Star State. Their experience is as vast as the landscape.
ucked between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas boasts a colorful history with a cast of infamous characters, beginning with giant marine reptiles and dinosaurs that roamed these parts over 65 million years ago according to fossils discovered in the vicinity. For centuries, Native Americans traveled through these parts along the Comanche Trail. Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo used this historic river crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, around 1582. By the mid-1800s, Anglo-Americans had made their way to this remote location, eventually discovering quicksilver in the 1890s. The area’s booming mines led to the Lajitas Trading Post, which served workers and handled goods and material coming from Mexico.
The early 20th century brought a public school, church and U.S. post office to the small community of Lajitas. In 1916, the arrival of Mexican Revolutionary general Pancho Villa — a name that was either worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio Grande — resulted
in the establishment of a military outpost to protect the strategic mining industry. General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing made an inspection of the area along with his aide Lieutenant George Patton during that time.
For decades afterward, the Lajitas property changed owners several times before ending up in the hands of Walter Mischer in 1977. The Houston entrepreneur restored and developed the community, and by the mid-1980s, the western-themed resort was born, complete with a nine-hole golf course, several lodging options and an airstrip. During this time, the quaint community also included an unexpected attraction: Clay Henry III, a beer-drinking goat who even served a term as mayor of the West Texas town.
Today, the remote vacation destination is even grander, with an onsite spa, zip-line course and an 18-hole championship golf course that continues to be a top pick by golf and travel publications. Whether you’re drawn to the history, scenery or activities, there are cowboy stories along with miners’ tales of drink and peril in every crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the area.
(432) 424-5000 lajitasgolfresort.com
Under new ownership since 2007, this 27,000-acre destination getaway features all the creature comforts and exciting adventures a visitor could want. From the Badlands Hotel to the Cavalry Post to the Boardwalk Condos, the resort boasts 101 well-appointed rooms decorated to match the remote property’s upscale Old West style.
Lajitas is on the grow and now offers real estate opportunities that include the new luxury Lakeside Cottages, Boardwalk Condos or buildto-suit lots. Whether an investor looking for a return on investment via the Lajitas Golf Resort rental pool or those looking to make Lajitas their next home, with over 27,000 acres, there are a variety of options. Email realestate@lajitasgolfresort.com for more information.
(432) 424-5182
With over 100 sites including 60 pull-throughs, full hookups and amenities including shower facilities, swimming pool, laundry, TV room, dog park and more, Maverick Ranch is the ideal destination for the Big Bend region adventure seekers. Guests of the Maverick Ranch RV Park enjoy all of Lajitas Golf Resort amenities and activities, including Agave Spa, Black Jack’s Crossing golf course, trail rides, shooting activities, zip-lining Quiet Canyon and more.
There’s no better place to relax and unwind in the high Chihuahuan Desert than this luxurious spa on the Lajitas Golf Resort property. Sit back and enjoy a massage, facial or body treatment using herbal ingredients and stones native to the region.
This 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins has been voted the “Best Course You Can Play in Texas” by the Dallas Morning News for the past six straight years, and Golfweek also ranks BJC the number one golf course you can play among all public access cours-
es in Texas. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.
Guided horseback rides work their way through hilly and desert terrain, offering sweeping views of the Big Bend wilderness. Riders can enjoy sunrise or sunset excursions, as well as one-hour, two-hour and half-day trail outings.
The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection of interesting shops and venues to explore, including Red Rock Outfitters and Christina’s World for local and regional gifts, the Flat Rock Theater providing a cool afternoon escape and Licha’s Bakery with fresh-baked pastries.
The remote southwest Texas desert provides a gorgeous backdrop for a variety of shooting activities avail-
able in Lajitas. Aim at sporting clays using a 12- or 20-gauge shotgun, or participate in a cowboy action shoot equipped with a shotgun, singleaction pistol or lever-action rifle. A combat course designed by a military veteran who served in Iraq simulates a run through an interactive environment.
A world-class zip-line tour of Quiet Canyon is a perfect way for adrenaline junkies to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings of the Big Bend area. Nine zip lines take riders from the upper canyon to the canyon floor. Three tour options available.
Just 40 miles north of the entrance to Big Bend National Park sits Marathon — a quaint community that boasts a delightful climate, beautiful surroundings and friendly people. Situated in what is known as the Magnificent Marathon Basin and centrally located to many of the area’s unique attractions, Marathon hosts a range of folks — from astronomers gazing at the night sky to biking or birding enthusiasts to Big Bend hikers and explorers.
One feature visitors can’t help but notice is the expansive starry sky over Marathon, which attracts astronomers and stargazers. Thanks to its remote geographic location, elevation and small size, the town has earned the rare distinction as an established, functional community under a “Class 1 Dark Sky.” (That’s as dark
as it gets!) Though increasing light pollution prevents surrounding communities from holding the same distinction, Marathon residents and businesses intentionally protect the breathtaking view and their dark sky status from the intrusion of exterior lights.
Marathon’s historic main street village sits a half-mile west of the Highway 385 turnoff to Big Bend National Park. Anchored by the legendary Gage Hotel, the city center includes shops, restaurants, galleries, groceries and accommodations to suit every taste and need. Railroad and ranching — two industries that founded the town — are still an important part of the local economy.
Starting at the center of
town, Post Road runs south for five miles to Post Park — the site of a former cavalry post known as Camp Peña Colorado in the late 1800s. With very little traffic and fabulous views, this stretch is ideal for running, walking and biking. Wildlife such as deer, javelinas, turkey, jack rabbits, quail and even an occasional fox can be seen in the early morning or around sunset.
Post Park itself boasts a beautiful, secluded pond and county park on the Peña Colorado Creek shaded by cottonwood trees and surrounded by the Caballos Novaculite Mountains. The historic spot is popular in birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big Bend
region. It also hosts the longest running community event in the Big Bend area: the Independence Day dance.
Stunning geologic features surround Marathon, including the bluntness of Iron Mountain to the northwest and the lightness of the northern Glass Mountains, one of the few exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. While in Marathon, you’ll stand on some of the oldest rocks from the Paleozoic age (250–600 million years ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas and Oklahoma that were heaved up during the formation of the ancient supercontinent of Pangaea. Roadcuts east of town along Highway 90 and south on Highway 385 expose onlookers to spectacular features such as strike-slip faults, unusual folding and fossil fragments.
Should you decide to make
Marathon your destination, or when you’re ready to head down the road, you’re an easy distance from just about anywhere in the area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles, and another 26 miles will get you to either Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re like most, you’ll probably head south to Big Bend National Park. Good news: Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region at just 42 miles. Marathon also offers a wide array of short-term rentals, which can be found under lodging on the marathontexas.com website. Many of the properties can also be accessed through Airbnb, Home Away and VRBO (vacation rentals by owner).
Marathon is sitting pretty as the locals’ haven and visitors’ uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip and a jump from all that welcomes visitors to far West Texas and its little corner of heaven.
For more information, visit marathontexas.com, themarathonfoundation.org and visitbigbend.com, as well as the Visit Marathon Texas Facebook page and Instagram account. instagram.com/visitmarathontexas www.facebook.com/marathontexas
Five miles south of town, this shady oasis known simply as “The Post” was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche Trail necessitated the establishment of a cavalry post there. Although very little remains of the army post, it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for dances, picnics and fishing, and is one of the best birding sites in the region.
Located off Post Road on the south side of town, the historic Marathon Cemetery has been in use since 1902. The peaceful grounds record the lives of early Marathon residents and is still in use today.
Located 39 miles south on Highway
385 and six miles east on FM 2627, this family museum honors the memory of legendary ranch woman, teacher and author Hallie Stillwell. Call before going as their hours vary. (432) 3762244.
Gage Hotel’s expansive landscaped garden encompasses 27 acres and includes meandering walking and running trails, ponds, a lavender field, rose garden and blooming indigenous plants that flourish year-round attracting area birds and butterflies. The garden serves as an event venue for Gage weddings and private parties, but is open to the public daily.
Marathon is the northern and eastern gateway to Big Bend National Park. A 40-minute drive takes you to the park entrance, where you are greeted with breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park, you can find yourself in the cool, high Chisos Mountains Basin with a view across the river into Mexico.
The luxury spa at the historic Gage Hotel offers the ultimate in relaxation with massages, body treatments, facials and more. 102 W. Hwy 90, (800) 884-GAGE, www.gagehotel.com
The Marathon Public Library provides the community with the opportunity to borrow books and DVDs in a variety
of genres. Printing services, Wi-Fi and programs for both adults and children are also available. Hours: Monday-Friday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. 106 NE 3rd Street, (432) 386-4136, www.marathonpubliclibrary.org
A unique concept/development to enhance the experience of visiting astronomy enthusiasts. Amenities include Wi-Fi, three-level concrete pads featuring 110 power and a shade cloth barrier to prevent any stray light intrusion. On most clear skied nights after dark, the park’s amateur astronomer will get out his telescopes and share his knowledge. Donations for his time go to improvements of the site and telescopes. (432) 386-4241
Held the weekend of the first Saturday in July, this event has been an influential part of Brewster County culture
since its start in the early 1900s. Post Park hosts visitors from around the area for a community dance and CASIsponsored chili cook-off benefiting the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department. Other weekend events include a barbecue lunch, fun “dog and pony show,” parade on Main Street, live music and a fireworks show.
The Viva Big Bend music festival takes place the last weekend of July and has brought live music to various locations in Marathon, including the Gage Hotel and French Co. Grocer.
Held the third weekend of September, cooks vie for the top prize with cabrito (goat) specialties. You are invited to help judge not just cabrito, but other tasty West Texas treats such as steak, salsa, chicken, ribs, brisket, dessert and margaritas! Family friendly activities include washer pitching, cake walk, silent and live benefit auctions, live music and a dance. Benefitting local causes, including the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department.
MARATHON 2 MARATHON
Held the fourth weekend in October, the annual 5K, 10K, half and full marathons take place each year on the Highway 385 course. Registrants can enjoy a pre-run pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel and a post-race fire department fundraiser lunch, awards presentation, dancing at the Marathon Motel and evening star party. www.marathon2marathon.net
Taking place the first weekend of December, Noche Buena (literally “the Good Night”) is the Spanish word for Christmas Eve. The evening consists of a family feast and is celebrated in
many places around the world. This community event begins at dusk. Galleries and shops open, seasonal snacks are shared, and the holiday tree is lit! You can get in the holiday spirit joining in with Christmas caroling and hay rides. Mr. and Mrs. Santa make an appearance. A mariachi band will be featured for the downtown revelers to enjoy.
This fish fry fundraiser happens the second Saturday of February and goes to make Post Park more user-friendly and to other local attractions (varies each year).
This festival in April will celebrate Marathon’s dark skies with a variety of astronomy-related programs and activities, music and more on the grounds of Marathon Motel and RV Park.
ADOBE HACIENDA / ORTEGA HOUSE (432) 603-7333
THE BLAS PLAYNE (817) 938-4498
One of, if not the, oldest homes in
Marathon. This historical house has been lovingly restored with close attention to retaining the character of a 100-plus-year-old adobe.
CASA LA VISTA (432) 386-2222
Be impressed by a rustic exterior. Inside all the comforts of home await you!
CASA VIEJA (310) 560-8758
A gorgeously restored home that was originally an old farmhouse built in 1917.
CASA WILMA (432) 386-2222 Solitude, beauty, escape.
8TH STREET ROCK HOUSE (281) 734-6796
The 8th Street Rock House is a onebedroom, one-bath house with a large eat-in kitchen and sleeps four.
EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED & BREAKFAST (432) 386-4165
Seven separate, colorful, hand-built
guest rooms (each with a private bath) surround a lush garden courtyard. Includes guest courtesy room and full organic breakfast.
GAGE HOTEL (800) 884-GAGE
Built in 1927 by famed architect Henry Trost, the recently restored Gage Hotel offers sophisticated laidback luxury at the “Gateway to the Big Bend.”
(432) 244-7144
Enjoy a stay at this quirky hostel with its rambling alternative buildings made using recycled material, cans, bottles and paper.
(432) 386-4241
Established in 1940, the recently renovated Marathon Motel features private cabins and full RV hookups complete with water, 30/50 amp electricity, sewer and cable television. The entrance is easy to navigate.
(432) 386-9755
Enjoy a local ranching family’s historic home, built in the 1940s. Roomy and cozy.
(830) 719-6067
Visit this historic home of Monroe Payne. Built more than 100 years ago, this adobe has been lovingly restored and provided with modern amenities making you feel at home.
(512) 423-2695
This adobe ranch house has mesmerizing mountain views from its numerous porches and patios.
Three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large kitchen with appliances and two covered porches with an outdoor living room plus hammocks make this spacious getaway a home away from home. See www.MarathonTexas.com for more info.
SUNSET HOUSE
(512) 844-0100
Unobstructed views of sunrises and sunsets from the 700-square-foot porch. The studio is well laid out for up to four guests.
TERRAZAS ADOBE
(303) 969-4646
206 N. Avenue D (432) 386-4522 frenchcogrocer.com
Open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily This quaint local store stocks classic grocery staples, natural foods, beer and wine, as well as camping supplies, gifts and artisan wares. The deli offers homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee.
In the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 gagehotel.com
The bar is open daily from 3 p.m. until 11 p.m. (or midnight if they’re having fun!).
Restaurant seating is from 6 p.m. with last seating at 9:40 p.m. on weekends and 8:40 p.m. on weekdays. Extraordinary Texas-inspired fine dining and bar experience.
BIG BEND PIZZA
900 Hwy 90 (432) 386-8883
Open Tuesday through Thursday from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from noon to 8 p.m. Homemade, fire-roasted pizza.
Located inside the J&G Alon convenience store, 901 Hwy. 90 West (432) 386-4238
Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday (sometimes open on Saturdays)
Grab a burger to go while getting gas on your way to Big Bend! Breakfast burritos, hamburgers, Mexican food, chicken sandwiches, fries, grilled cheese, cold drinks and beer.
BRICK VAULT BREWERY & BARBECUE
100 N. 1st Street (432) 386-7538
Open Thursday and Friday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and dining until 8:30 p.m. or until food sells out. Saturday from noon to 10 p.m. and dining until 8:30 p.m. or until food sells out. Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. or until food sells out. The Brick Vault opened in 2018 and serves up award-winning barbecue and craft beer — a great combination for the weary traveler.
V6 COFFEE BAR
109 NE 1st St. (432) 308-6877
Open daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Hearty breakfast and a bistro-style lunch with beer, wine and full espresso menu.
Three doors down from the Gage on Main Street (432) 386-4366 jameshevans.com
If you don’t see someone in the shop, give James a call, and he’ll stop by. The longest-running gallery in the Big Bend, featuring the photographs of James H. Evans. Evans has been operating out of Marathon since 1988 and is the author of Big Bend Pictures (in its 3rd printing) and Crazy from the Heat.
105 N. Avenue D (432) 386-6789 edanklepper.com Open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. E. Dan Klepper is a fine artist, photographer and writer exhibiting his largescale works of photo-based art and sculpture at Klepper Gallery. His book of fine art photography and essays titled Why the Raven Calls the Canyon can also be found at the gallery.
V6 COLLECTION GIFTS
109 NE 1st St. (432) 308-6877
Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
The Gage Hotel’s uniquely curated collection of local art, area books and hand-crafted decor.
The enigmatic city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night.
Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880s, the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches, many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, businesses or events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world.
On the surface, it’s a typical rural town — a main street, a courthouse, churches and unique homes. Look deeper and you will find restaurants and art collections to rival New York or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic accommodations. This close-knit
and diverse community takes pride in its rich cultural past, and makes deep investments in the future by way of volunteerism and community involvement.
Until the 1970s, Marfa was best known for the ghost lights and as the film location for James Dean’s final picture, Giant, also starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper. The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano served as the center of activity during the making of the movie. Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences while preserving the spirit of its past. If you are unable to stay there, a visit is a must — sit by a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside courtyard and fountain.
In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently installing art. Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation.
The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin.
While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the viewing station east of town where you can study the mystery of the Marfa ghost lights as they dance across the foothills of the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa.
It’s impossible to capture the magic of Marfa in just a few pages. For more, go to visitmarfa.com or call (432) 729-4772.
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Marfa’s Mystery Ghost Lights were first documented by rancher Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories about the source of these curious lights abound, but no one has ever been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning, UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ancestors have been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights above Mitchell Flat are an enduring attraction. You’ll find a roadside park and viewing center complete with restroom facilities, picnic tables and long-range viewing devices along Highway 90 just eight miles east of town.
Built in 1886, the Goddess of Justice stands atop this elegant Second Empire-style domed structure that was restored in 2001. A climb to the cupola provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, Chinati Peak and nearby Davis Mountains. Hours are 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday through Friday.
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The highest golf course in Texas, situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, this 9-hole course offers not only well-kept greens but also 360-degree views of blue mountains and open ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the desert mountains. (432) 729-4043.
are three nonprofit art spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. Occupying much of former Fort D.A. Russell, the Chinati Foundation is a contemporary art museum founded by the artist Donald Judd, with permanent installations by 13 artists. The Judd Foundation offers guided visits of Donald Judd’s formerly private live and work spaces. Ballroom Marfa features revolving exhibits of international acclaimed artists, along with numerous music events and performances throughout the year. Reservations are required for all three, so book before you go! www.chinati.org, www.juddfoundation.org, www.ballroommarfa.org
Prada Marfa, by artists Elmgreen & Dragset, is one of the most iconic site-specific artworks in the world. Modeled after a Prada boutique, the sculpture houses luxury goods from the famed brand’s fall 2005 collection of bags and shoes in what some refer to as “the middle of nowhere.” Don’t blink and miss this landmark just west of Valentine, Texas, on Highway 90, a quick 30-minute drive from Marfa.
Call or check websites to find out the current status.
Chinati Weekend invites the local community as well as friends and colleagues from across the country and around the world to come to Chinati for a weekend of open viewing of the permanent collection, special exhibitions, talks and music — all offered free to the public. www.chinati.org
The annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love takes place in September and imports music and fun to Marfa. El Cosmico offers alternative lodging options to travelers in the forms of renovated vintage trailers, yurts, a teepee and campsites.
The Marfa Lights Festival takes place each Labor Day weekend, with many of the activities surrounding the historic Presidio County Courthouse. The festival begins on Friday when food and craft vendors open their booths. Saturday morning starts with a 5K walk/ run and a parade down Highland Avenue. Live music is featured throughout the weekend.
A drive through the Davis Mountains offers a peek into the past and beyond into outer space. McDonald Observatory’s world-class instruments give a look into deep space, and offer fascinating tours of the grounds, telescopes and “star parties” that rival anything you’ve seen or done before
Some of the most scenic West Texas views imaginable await you on the FM 2810/Pinto Canyon Road out of Marfa. Great for cars, road bikes or by foot, take an adventure along sprawling ranches toward the Chinati Mountains on this low-traffic ranch road.
Scenic doesn’t begin to describe the wonders along the route that follows the Rio Grande to Big Bend Ranch State Park and Big Bend National Park. Whether it’s a history tour of Fort Leaton outside of Presidio or the mining “ghost town” of Terlingua, River Road is picturesque at every turn. You’ll want to factor in time to make plenty of stops.
HOTEL PAISANO 207 N. Highland (432) 729-3669 hotelpaisano.com
A historic hotel with 41 rooms, fantastic gift shop and a heated pool. The Paisano hosted the stars of the movie Giant and now serves as the social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy patio dining by the fountain at Jett’s Grill with views of the exquisite Trost architecture.
601 W. San Antonio St. (432) 729-7777 thunderbirdmarfa.com
The Thunderbird Hotel is a quiet boutique hotel with 26 stylish rooms. The outdoor courtyard has plenty of shade at the poolside cabana by day, and fire pits for socializing on cool nights.
EL COSMICO
802 S. Highland Ave. (432) 729-1950 elcosmico.com
El Cosmico is a unique bohemian hotel and one of the most iconic places to stay in West Texas. Enjoy a stay in a spacious yurt, cozy safari tents or one of many unique trailers, each decked out with its own personality and comfort in mind.
HOTEL SAINT GEORGE
105 S. Highland Ave. (432) 729-3700 marfasaintgeorge.com Marfa’s newest and most modern hotel offers 55 rooms with fine design and attention to detail. La Venture, the Saint George’s in-house restaurant, offers a full bar and delicious meals for guests of the hotel and visitors to Marfa.
1300 W. San Antonio St.
Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. -3 p.m., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. A small but excellent menu of fine diner food. The chicken and waffles never disappoint, and you’ll want to add a fresh juice, iced coffee or one of their specialty cocktails. Stylish indoor or relaxing patio dining available.
1411 W. San Antonio St. conveniencewest.com
Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m. -sold out Convenience West takes its place among Texas’s famed barbecue joints. The perfectly seasoned and slow smoked meats are the star of the show, but it’s the unique take on traditional sides that sets CW apart.
107 W. San Antonio St. cochinealmarfa.com
A sleek and sophisticated restaurant with a rotating menu of fine dining. Indoor and outdoor seating and an incredible cocktail bar make for a perfectly intimate experience.
515 S. Highland
Monday-Saturday, 6 a.m. - 2 p.m. Marfa Burrito is a staple and a must-visit for those in the know. Ramona’s burritos will stick to your ribs and power a day of art viewing and shopping.
200 S. Abbot St.
Planet Marfa is a favorite hangout for visitors and locals alike. Live music, karaoke, and guest chefs rotate through this funky and fun beer garden on a regular basis. Great conversations and stories to take home await.
110 Highland St. wrongmarfa.com
Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Wrong Marfa is owned by long-time Marfa residents and artists. Part store, part gallery, all fun, there is always something that will tickle your fancy at Wrong.
COMMUNITIE
122 Highland St.
Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Communitie is the perfect Marfa mix of minimalist aesthetic and West Texas sensibility. This is where you will find all the necessities, like wide-brimmed hats, bolo ties and a simple silk slip dress. Dogs welcome!
300 South Kelly St. marfabookco.com
The go-to resource for west Texas literature, art and events in Marfa. Visit their website for a schedule of events and most up-to-date hours.
Presidio sits on the borderland of Texas and Mexico, where locals often say, “the River has never divided us.” The two largest rivers in this region of the Big Bend join one another here in Presidio: the Rio Grande and Rio Conchos. It has a long and documented past as a cultural crossroads and has served as a traveler destination for centuries. Native tribes and early settlers were drawn to the rich soil of the area historically known as “La Junta de los Rios.” Water is life, and that truth is accentuated here in the unique landscape of the Chihuahuan Desert.
The first Spanish explorers came to Presidio in the 16th century and continued to settle the area by establishing numerous missions and garrisons. The La Junta floodplain of the Rio Grande has given the area a long history of continuous settlement, trade, and humans finding inspiration from the Rio to carve out pathways
for themselves in the desert. Presidio garners its name from the historic Mexican fortress of Presidio del Norte, whose ruins are in present-day Ojinaga, Mexico.
Each highway that leads to Presidio offers magnificent views along the Texas Mountain Trail. Heading south from the city of Marfa on US 67, sweeping views of the wide-open spaces and big skies make the route a panorama of brilliant colors at sunrise and sunset. For sceneryseekers, Presidio acts as the gateway to the western entrance of Big Bend Ranch State Park; visitors can check in to the park through Presidio’s own Fort Leaton State Historic Site, a fortified trading post established on the Chihuahuan Trail in 1848. If you’re coming from Big Bend National Park through Big Bend Ranch State Park on FM 170, you’ll be driving a route that National Geographic has named one of the top 10 most scenic drives
in the United States. Famously called the “River Road,” the section between Lajitas and Presidio in Big Bend Ranch State Park parallels the Rio Grande closely for 27 miles, as both the river and the road curve, climb and fall through the borderland mountains of Mexico and the United States. The steepest climb on River Road will take you up and over the “Big Hill” of the Bofecillos Mountains, where the Rio Grande valley unfolds beneath the sheer volcanic cliffs across the border.
Like the river, oral tradition and storytelling culture have shaped the Big Bend region over the course of generations. However, one story has no place in Presidio-Ojinaga culture: that borderlands are scary and dangerous places. Presidio has regularly ranked as one of the safest towns in Texas. If you look beneath the surface, you’ll find that the International Port of Entry is patrolled by U.S. Customs and Border Protection and acts as the gateway to some of the best shopping in the region. Grab your passport and make the drive across the border! Once you arrive in Ojinaga, Mexico, population 30,000, you’ll have your pick of authentic Mexican restaurants and shops that sell colorful local wares.
If you’d like suggestions on what to do and see in Ojinaga, do not hesitate to ask a Presidio local. Search far and wide, and it is likely that you will not find a friendlier community to visit. Through thousands of years of continuous settlement, the people of Presidio have cultivated a culture of hospitality and family that is as rich and genuine as the soil of La Junta de los Rios. An example of great adobe soil architecture is the American Legion Post No.176 building established in 1933, which has been remodeled and is now open. The legion is a nonprofit organization whose members volunteered to restore the face of Santa Teresa de Jesus church built in 1912 and is home to a parish that is known as the home of the first Christmas celebration in Texas, in 1683. Visit the restaurants and stores in Presidio and you will find that no one remains a stranger here very long. The people who live here, sharing ideas, history and community, are happy to help you discover the borderlands culture that is so unique to Presidio.
Presidio hosts a rich art and cultural scene, noticeable from the moment you enter town. The city’s water tower features a mural painted by world renowned street muralist El Mac. Presidio is also home of La Junta Heritage Center, a nonprofit organization developed in the memory of A. Kelly Pruitt, a Texas artist who’s been featured in Who’s Who in American Art. Several examples of Pruitt’s work can be seen in local Presidio businesses. Various other murals have been contributed by local artists, such as Laurie Holman. One mural honoring “The Lady in Blue” represents the First Christmas in Texas, which, according to local legend, took place in Presidio in 1683. Also, local artist Ramon Deanda created two amazing illustrations of Presidio at the Panaderia Don Jose and at the new Presidio Pour-over Coffee Company, located at 600 W. O’Reilly St. Visitors can also appreciate
traditional architecture and building techniques, as featured in local adobe structures, including the historic Santa Teresa de Jesus Church. The latest artist to create a mural is Mariell Guzman. Her piece celebrates the natural beauty of the Chihuahuan Desert in an array of beautiful bright colors. Her art can be viewed next to Harper Hardware down O’Reilly Street in downtown Presidio. Presidio’s new water tower can be seen as you enter town on Highway 67, with its historical name: Presidio “La Junta de Los Rios.”
One of the Big Bend Ranch State Park’s greatest assets is that it is designated a Gold Tier International Dark Skies Park. With a City of Presidio
The plaza is an oasis of shade, fountains and greenery in downtown Presidio. The Farmers Market is held every Saturday morning.
Est. 1683 on O’Reilly Street, the church was rededicated in October 1983 in its tricentennial year.
Visit one of the largest fortified adobe structures in Texas. Constructed in 1848 after the Treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, Fort Leaton served as the sole supply depot for a 500-mile stretch of the Rio Grande and held a prominent place on the Chihuahua Trail. Interpretive exhibits highlight the area history and day to day life in the 1800s. Fort Leaton also serves as the western visitor center for Big Bend Ranch State Park. (432) 229-3613, https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ fort-leaton
This massive park of almost 300,000 acres flanks the “River Road” and features trailheads, small recreation areas, primitive camping and river access points. (432) 358- 4444, www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch
About 36 miles northwest of Presidio on FM 170, Ruidosa, a once thriving agricultural community, today is home to a general store. Also at the end of FM 170 is Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not seen by most visitors.
The Chinati Hot Springs features constant 110-degree, mineral-rich waters that have been regarded for their healing qualities for well over 100 years.
As you drive upriver you will see the Texas Historical
Resolution in place, the visibility of the night sky is protected from outdoor light pollution. Now other tri-county cities and governments have also come aboard with their own dark skies resolutions. The Big Bend region is designated as a Dark Sky Reserve, the largest in North America. This is now the best place to view the black canopy overhead. At night, stare upward and you’ll find a view that’s breathtaking, like you’ve never seen in the big cities. On Saturdays starting in August, Presidio celebrates this view with singer-songwriters at the Dark Skies Music Festival at Saint Francis Park in downtown Presidio. https://www.darksky.org/ourwork/conservation/idsp/parks/
Marker for the Chinati Cemetery locally known as Los Indio’s Cemetery. Visit the historic Ruidosa Church, El Corazon Sagrado de la Iglesia de Jesus, and its unique adobe arches, crafted by the Ruidosa community in 1915. www.chinatihotsprings.net
Twenty miles north of Presidio on Highway 67 are the remains of a once prosperous silver mining town. Extensive ruins are visible, though fenced against trespassing. The Shafter Cemetery features above-ground rock burials, some of which date back to the 1880s. Shafter is Texas’ only working silver mine operated by Rio Grande Mining Company.
An easy drive across the international bridge, Ojinaga welcomes visitors with a variety of excellent restaurants and shops, a casual atmosphere and friendly, helpful locals. The cultural museum is a must-see on the road from the international bridge. facebook.com/ojinaga.chih.mx
The future home of La Junta Heritage Center is under development. La Junta de los Rios is a historic farming and trading area at the junction of the Rio Grande (called Rio del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio Conchos.
This bizarre rock structure can be viewed from Highway 67 just outside of Shafter. Another favorite rock novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be viewed from Highway 67 just north of Presidio.
Pool open from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Beat the heat in a pool designed for all ages, zero entry to 8.5-foot diving area. Featuring a 90-foot, figure-eight slide and other water features to get you wet. Bathhouse and showers, great place to cool off after adventures in the Big Bend. http://presidiotx.us
The Presidio Athletic Complex can be found at 1144 E. O’Reilly. Where baseball is king – and visitors are welcome!
INTERNATIONAL PORT OF ENTRY
(432) 229-3349
99400 Highway 67, PO Box 1959 Presidio, Texas 79845
Go through the port of entry to visit Presidio’s sister city, Ojinaga, and enjoy a unique tourism opportunity. The expansion of the bridge is in progress to improve international tourism and trade with Mexico. For ease in crossing, bring your passport. Friendly community with good food and shopping. U.S. currency accepted in most places. U.S. Customs and Border Protection, open to traffic 24/7.
National Geographic magazine calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the “Top 10 Scenic Highways in North America” and RideTexas.com Reader’s Choice calls it the “Best Road Next to a River.”
On two wheels or more, River Road is an adventure with side roads and stops to explore.
Established 1933. Bar and grill open now. All visitors welcome.
Located within the town at the intersection of Barton Avenue and Market Street. A historical marker will be erected soon.
Located behind Harper Hardware store. Complete with picnic tables, swings and a teeter-totter for kids.
Bird watching area (26 acres) one-half mile from Fort Leaton on FM 170 East.
Call or check websites for current status. FOURTH OF JULY
An annual celebration is held at a city-designated area. Includes a fireworks show, food vendors and fun
for the whole family. Admission free. Vendors, please contact City Hall at (432) 229-3517 for details.
Enjoy the spring weather outside with singer-songwriters performing on Friday evenings at 7 p.m. in St. Francis Park located in downtown Presidio, starting in February to March. Admission is free.
Celebrate what makes Presidio great — its multi-cultural atmosphere. Visitors will enjoy the parade with all the great costumes, plus Mexican, Filipino and Lebanese food, entertainment and more. The second Saturday of September at Daly Park, Edmundo Nieto Street and Commerce Street.
Enjoy the summer with singer-songwriters performing on Friday evenings (7 p.m.) in St. Francis Park located in downtown Presidio, starting in August. Admission is free.
PRESIDIO INTERNATIONAL
DRAG STRIP FM 170 West
Monthly Saturday night races.
SANTA TERESA FIESTAS
Santa Teresa de Jesus Church. Each year the church committee hosts a two-day celebration with traditional food, arts and crafts. There is a raffle with all proceeds going directly to the church’s insurance and needs. Call (432) 229-3235 for more information.
The first Christmas in Texas was held in 1683 by Father Nicholas Lopez of Juan Dominguez de Mendoza expedition. Santa Teresa Catholic Church conducts Christmas mass, and the public is invited.
Every Saturday, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., rain or shine. Live music. Held between St. Francis Park and City Hall.
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK-BUNKHOUSE (432) 358-4444 https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/bigbend-ranch
CIBOLO CREEK RANCH
(866) 496-9460 cibolocreekranch.com 30 miles north of Presidio
On FM 170, 4 miles east of downtown (432) 229-2992 84 wide, pull-thru sites. Showers.
PRESIDIO LODGE & DASP RV PARK
99140 Hwy 67 (as you come into town) (432) 209-9565 A hilltop campground with cabins and RV spaces with beautiful views in all directions.
LA CENTINELA riobravoranchtx.com (432) 229-3302, lacentinela@gmail.com Private 2/2 architecturally designed adobe house on FM 170, overlooking the Rio Grande with luxurious amenities. Home away from home for artists, birders and adventurers.
RIATA INN 99205 US 67 North (432) 229-2528
Presidio’s motorcycle boutique hotel. Riders will find a home away from home and extras one not might expect traveling on a bike. Riata is certainly the motorcycle-friendly place for all travelers to stay in Presidio. www.riatainnpresidio.com
RIO BRAVO RANCH (432) 229-3302 riobravoranch1979@gmail.com Camping, large tent sites, shade structures, fire rings, grills, picnic tables, Chinati potty, BIG KAHUNA outdoor shower.
THREE PALMS INN
1200 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-3211
A great place to stay in Presidio. Comfortable rooms, pool, internet, and offers the Oasis Restaurant open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. www.threepalmsinn.com
THE BEAN CAFÉ
(432) 229-3131
Coffee shop and restaurant located in downtown Presidio in front of City Hall.
BIG BUDDHA BAKERY
1013 E. Santa Cruz (781) 710-9248
New restaurant serves sourdough pizza, desserts and drinks. Open FridaySaturday from 12 p.m.-3p.m. and 6 p.m.- 9 p.m. Enjoy outdoor seating.
EJ’S DRIVE THRU (432) 229-2976 1004 Foothill Blvd.
Family run. Fast food, burgers, hot dogs, wings and beer. Open daily: 12 p.m.- 12 a.m.
EL CHANGARRITO
(432) 229-2274
Next to the railroad tracks on East O’Reilly Street Mexican food, shaded outdoor dining.
EL PATIO MEXICAN RESTAURANT
1118 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-4409
Authentic Mexican food. Dine-in, drivethru, no delivery. Popular restaurant located in front of the Santa Teresa de Jesus Catholic Church. Open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
PRESIDIO POUR-OVER COFFEE
600 W. O’Reilly St. Coffee shop in downtown Presidio across from City Hall. Expressos, slowbrew coffee, brown sugar boba milk teas, macarons and other pastries. Open Monday-Friday: 6 a.m.-2 p.m., 5 p.m.-9 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
OASIS RESTAURANT
Next to Three Palms Inn on Errma St. (432) 229-3998
Open 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily. Good food and desserts.
PINK FLAMINGO
902 O’Reilly Street (432) 244-6362
@thepinkflamingo_presidiotx
Colorful shaved ice shop serving snow cones, ice cream and delicious coffees. Open Monday-Friday, 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.
PONCHO’S PIZZA, TAXI SERVICE
144A N. Puerto Rico St. and US 67 (432) 229-2663 (432) 295-0447 (taxi service)
Next to the Presidio International Bridge.
PRESIDIO TRADING POST & CANTINA
(432) 229-3916
River Road at FM 170 E. & Rio Grande Ave. Open evenings. Variety of chicken wing flavors. Best in town.
109 N. Erma on Business US 67 (432) 229-3424
Family-run bakery known for its crescent rolls and for tamales and menudo on Sunday. Featuring a new and beautiful mural by local artist Ramon Deanda.
SUBWAY SANDWICH SHOP
(432) 229-2505 223 W. 1st St.
R’S RESTAURANT
1207 Millington Blvd. (432) 229-3031
Hamburgers, wings and beer. Dine-in, drive-thru, no delivery.
ANGELL EXPEDITIONS
(432) 384-2307 or (305) 336-2787 angellexpeditions.com
Full-service outfitter serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules. Rental cabins available. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor!
BIG BEND JEEP RENTAL bigbendjeep.com Self-guided Big Bend Jeep tours in safety and style. Daily and weekly
rentals. Travel the famous River Road, explore historic sites or experience a memorable 4x4 adventure.
FAR WEST TEXAS OUTFITTERS
(432) 229-2054 or (512) 632-4041 mike@farwesttexasoutfitters.com Seeking a week’s journey by canoe through some of North America’s most remote wild rivers canyons or a scenic day float, hike or drive. We tailor a custom experience for you.
20 VARAS BRAKE SERVICE
O’Reilly St. and S. Bunton Ave. (432) 210-7344
ALEX AUTOMOTIVE AUTO CARE CENTER
Highway 170 & E. O’Reilly St.. (432) 229-4014
AUTO ZONE 101 E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3223
DY CONVENIENCE STORE 104 W. O’Reilly , (432) 229-4488
FRONTIER TRAVEL CENTER
US 67, next to Riata (432) 229-2777
Open: Monday-Saturday 5 a.m.-11 p.m. and Sunday 6 a.m.-11 p.m.
OLIVAS AUTO PARTS 1818 Millington St., (432) 894-3249
ROHANA TIRE 907 E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-2525
PRESIDIO 67 VALERO Hwy 67 , (432) 229-4949
TOM’S SERVICE STATION 203 O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3259
Shopping NIETO’S 903 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3220
Full selection of cowboy jeans, belts and hats, as well as a ladies section.
MONTANA WESTERN WEAR & ALSE MISC.
1120 O’Reilly Street (432) 229-3224
Full selection of cowboy jeans, belts and hats, as well as a ladies section. Alse is a specialty store with a wide variety
of personal products, from makeup to electronics.
UETA DUTY FREE STORE
Large building near International Bridge (432) 229-3766
Some items may be bought on the spot, others like liquor and cigarettes (up to 40% off retail) can only be exported to Mexico at the international bridge. Limit for bringing back liquor. Tax per liter: $3.75 with 4-liter limit per person.
All on Business 67
They may not have everything you want, but they have everything you need!
504 N. Erma on N. Business 67 (432) 229-3776 portersgrocery.com
Popular stop for travelers looking for beverages, groceries, ice, fuel and money orders. It is a full-service grocery store, deli and bakery.
AVAILABLE AT CITY HALL (507 W. O’REILLY ST.). FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK, CITY OF PRESIDIO, TEXAS WWW.PRESIDIOTX.US (432) 229-3199
To the east of Big Bend State Park and to the west of Big Bend National Park sits the Terlingua/Study Butte area, which attracts visitors looking for West Texas adventure.
Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and motorcycling are popular outdoor activities throughout the region, and many such trips begin in this tiny community.
But the adrenaline-rushing tourist activities aren’t what originally put Terlingua on the map. That honor goes to cinnabar, a bright mineral consisting of mercury sulfide — an important ore of mercury and used by Native Americans as body pigment. Its discovery in the 1880s brought miners to the desolate Chihuahuan Desert and spawned the Chisos Mining Company, founded by Howard Perry in 1903. For more than two decades, the operation extracted quicksilver, which was used in the manufacture of gun-
powder cartridges and shells. Business boomed, particularly during World War I, and the small town of Terlingua blossomed around the mines. But once the Great Depression hit, the quicksilver industry suffered, leading to a reduced need for mine labor and, ultimately, the closure of the Chisos Mining Company in 1942.
Though many miners moved on, remnants of their time in the far West Texas community remain. The Terlingua Ghost Town, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, features what’s left of miners’ homes, their church and Perry’s hilltop mansion, along with several capped and abandoned mines — most notably the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines.
No trip to the area is complete without a visit to the front porch of the Terlingua Trading Company — what was once the company store of the Chisos Mining Company. From this popular gathering place, onlookers can get to know the locals while taking in a sweeping view of
Big Bend National Park and the Chisos Mountains, including the hardto-miss formation known as “Mule Ears.” When the sun goes down, enjoy some of the best celestial viewing in the country.
Each year on the first Saturday in November, more than 10,000 “chiliheads” convene in Terlingua for two annual chili cook-offs: the Chili Appreciation Society’s International Chili Championship and the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler Memorial World Championship Chili Cookoff. These annual events feature costumes, live music and serious competition. They have come to personify Terlingua and spread the reputation of this unique Texas village worldwide.
The neighboring community of Study Butte (pronounced “stoody byoot”) may be lesser known, but it is the economic hub of the area and has a similar history steeped in mining. Today, stores, lodging and other amenities cater to tourists enjoying all that the Big Bend region has to offer.
THE PLACE TO GO TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL
Housed in the former company store of the Chisos Mining Company (100 Ivey Rd.), this is a modern-day version of the trading post that served trappers, settlers and cowboys along the Rio Grande. Today, the gift shop and community gathering place sells gifts influenced by Mexico and the southwestern U.S., including books, maps and art. (432) 371-2234, www.ghosttowntexas.com/ terlinguatradingcompany.html
On Highway 170, five miles west of 118 Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1996, the Terlingua Historic District holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area. Some buildings have been restored as shops, restaurants and homes, including the Starlight Theatre and the Terlingua Trading Company. Other remnants, such as miners’ homes, an area church and the Perry Mansion, are weathered ruins. The Terlingua Ghost Town also includes capped and abandoned mines left over from the early-1900s mining boom and a boot hill cemetery. www.ghosttowntexas.com
If you’ve made it to far West Texas, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary. The Terlingua and Study Butte area is a great starting point from which to base your national park adventure. Once inside the park, consider the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This stunning loop on the western side of Big Bend passes many favorite trailheads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction. www.visitbigbend.com
The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.” www.tpwd.texas. gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch
The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998). www.tpwd.texas. gov/state-parks/barton-warnock
This self-guided tour starts at the flag pole in front of the Terlingua Trading Company. Go to the website for more details. terlinguatexas.com/moreexcursions
Highway 170 along the Rio Grande is a favorite among travelers. You’ll find several camping areas, river access points and trailheads along the way. At places, the road becomes narrow, winding and very steep, making it difficult for some RVs, buses and trailer rigs. Open grazing is also allowed along this stretch of road, so keep your eyes peeled for cows, horses, mules or burros.
The Terlingua and Study Butte area is the jumping off point for your river adventure. There are a number of experienced outfitters that will make your trip fun and safe, whether it be by raft, canoe or kayak.
23331 FM 170 (800) 545-4240 bigbendrivertours.com
The oldest full-service outfitter in the area, Big Bend River Tours offers guided rafting trips, canoe trips, guided hikes, backroad tours and combination trips.
22937 FM 170 (432) 371-2727 desertsportstx.com
Looking to mountain bike or run in Big Bend National Park or Big Bend State Park? Desert Sports specializes
in helping visitors explore the Chihuahuan Desert. Guided tours, overnight river trips and boat and bike rentals are also available.
LAJITAS ZIP LINE
lajitasgolfresort.com, (432) 424-5000
A world-class zip-line tour of Quiet Canyon is a perfect way for adrenaline junkies to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings of the Big Bend area. Nine zip lines take riders from the upper canyon to the canyon floor. Three tour options available.
lajitasgolfresort; (432) 424-5080
For multiple years, the Dallas Morning News has voted this 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins the top course you can play in Texas. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.
FAR FLUNG OUTDOOR CENTER
23310 FM 170; (432) 371-2633 bigbendfarflung.com
Far Flung Outdoor Center helps visitors experience the Big Bend area up close and personal with river trips,
walks and hikes, and Jeep and ATV tours. They also offer courses in wilderness first aid and canoe rentals.
BIG BEND & LAJITAS STABLES
(800) 887-4331, (432) 371-3064 www.lajitasstables.com/index.html lajitasstables@bigbend.net
Offering guided horseback rides for almost 30 years! Riders can enjoy the frontier lands of the Chihuahuan Desert next to Big Bend National Park, along Scenic Rio Grande and atop the mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly, half- or all- day and multiple days available.
(432) 371-3382 , (877) 386-4383 bigbendresort.com/big-bend-overlandtours
Big Bend Resort & Adventures offers experienced guides to take you to all areas of the Big Bend. The tours are conducted in a Ford Excursion 4-wheel drive vehicle with air conditioning for your comfort.
Call or check websites for more details.
Every year in May, people from both sides of the border come together for a day of music and fun next to (and in) the Rio Grande. Musicians grab their instruments and set up on the bandstand at the edge of the river near the border community of Lajitas. They take turns playing songs with bands just across the border, on the Mexican side of the river, at Paso Lajitas, an even tinier village.
It’s a Terlingua tradition to meet at sunset on Nov. 2 at the historic cemetery in the Terlingua Ghost Town to light candles and make offerings to loved ones long past, remember old friends and make new ones as everyone visits and honors those who’ve gone before them.
www.visitbigbend.com
The Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the north side of Highway 170, 11 miles west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the annual championship on the first weekend of November. The festivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and wings contests. There is live music entertainment on
Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. www.casichili.net
First held in 1967, this annual celebration features some of the best chili this side of the Pecos, plus big name musical talent. It's held the first weekend of November. More details at www.abowlofred.com
Since 1990, Terlingua residents and visitors have celebrated the start of a new year with a black-eyed pea cooking competition. The annual Jan. 1 event occurs on the porch of the Terlingua Trading Company and has two rules: have fun and no beans! A first place trophy is awarded and proceeds benefit local causes.
This racing event takes place every January in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Participants can choose from a 50K, 30K, 20K and 10K trail run over desert terrain. The premium, ultra and distance trail races in the Chihuahuan Desert of South Brewster County benefit Big Bend Ranch State Park and Friends of Big Bend Ranch State Park. www.bigbend50.com
The annual music festival, which celebrates its 12th anniversary in 2023, has expanded in recent years to include South Brewster County and specifically Terlingua. The final
weekend of July is the time to catch the music.
The Chihuahua races take place each March and benefit the Family Crisis Center of the Big Bend. Enjoy the race, games, a dog costume contest and food and music.
For a complete listing of area lodging options, go to www.VisitBigBend.com.
EL DORADO HOTEL
100 Terlingua Ghost Town (432) 371-2111 eldoradohotelterlingua.com Located behind the High Sierra Bar & Grill, the El Dorado Hotel offers traditional single, double and king rooms, as well as a one-bedroom villa and a fully remodeled tour bus that sleeps four.
LA POSADA MILAGRO laposadamilagro.com Built atop ruins in the Terlingua Ghost Town, the pet-friendly La Posada Milagro provides rustic luxury accommodations. Each room is unique, and visitors can enjoy views of Big Bend National Park from sun decks and courtyards. Also featured is an on-site coffee shop and taqueria.
CHISOS MINING CO. MOTEL
23280 FM 170 (432) 371-2254 motelsbigbend.com
For more than 40 years, this locally owned and operated motel just minutes from both Big Bend National Park and Big Bend State Park has served West Texas visitors.
Three miles from the western entrance to Big Bend National Park (432) 371-3382 bigbendresort.com
Big Bend Resort & Adventures features lodging, gift shop, food, a convenience store and guided back country tours. A campground and RV park with full hookups is also onsite.
HOLIDAY HOTEL
100 Ivey Rd. (432) 203-6929 bigbendholidayhotel.com Located between Study Butte and Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart of the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town, Holiday Hotel offers sophisticated accommodations in a primitive setting. Guests can choose between the lovingly restored suites, casitas and family suites.
LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/ MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK
On Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000, (877) LAJITAS lajitasgolfresort.com
A full-service resort which is also home to a beautiful 18-hole golf course and an outfitter service. Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101 sites, including 60 full-service pull-throughs and 18 primitive wilderness campsites for those interested in having a true, rustic tent camping experience.
BIG BEND CASITAS (432) 371-2633 bigbendfarflung.com/lodging
LONGHORN RANCH MOTEL
52370 TX-118, Terlingua (432) 371-2541
TERLINGUA RANCH LODGE 16000 Terlingua Ranch Rd., Terlingua (432) 371-3146
SHORT-TERM RENTALS
airbnb.com, vrbo.com There are a wide variety of area lodging options through Airbnb and other short-term rental companies.
Van Horn was established in 1881, when the Texas and Pacific Railway came through. Before that, it was a stopping point for travelers on the Old Spanish Trail and the San Antonio-El Paso Overland Mail route.
Today, Van Horn is the county seat of Culberson County, sitting at the helm of the western portion of the region, almost exactly halfway between Fort Stockton and El Paso. Of the many area attractions, a large number of visitors to Van Horn are those heading up to Guadalupe Mountains National Park and on to Carlsbad Caverns just across the Texas/ New Mexico border. Many choose to stay in the newly remodeled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this part of the country. The El Capitan is a newly remodeled gem of historic architecture.
Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state — Guadalupe Peak at 8,750 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 19 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo
A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike.
Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark
Hotel Museum. Located in the historic hotel that once served railroad travelers, this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. The museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. There are displays showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. It features an old western-style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. (432) 283-8028
HOTEL EL CAPITAN
100 East Broadway (877) 283-1220 thehotelelcapitan.com
The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 based on designs by notable architect Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso. After a $2.5 million renovation, the El Capitan is even more superb than in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar.
ake Amistad is the crown jewel of Del Rio. Fed by the Rio Grande, Pecos and Devils rivers, Lake Amistad serves as the host to year-round water sports activities.
The unique rivers wind through over 100-foot canyons and converge into an expanse of clear, freshwater that offers an engaging and serene experience to visitors.
Known as the the oldest continuously operated winery in Texas, the Val Verde Win-
ery is a must stop for visitors. Established in 1883, it produces an array of wines from white Viognier to the red Sangiovese.
While in Del Rio, take the short drive and explore the region’s history at the Seminole Canyon State Park and the Judge Roy Bean Visitor Center in Langtry. Continue the exploration at the Whitehead Memorial and the Laughlin Heritage Museums.
Lastly, discover annual events such as monthly Art Walks, the summer concert series Noches Musicales, the Fiesta de Amistad celebrations and a variety of many other offerings. For a listing of all Del Rio has to offer, visit drchamber.com.
Consisting of 19 buildings and 30 exhibits, the Whitehead Memorial Museum was the result of the 1962 donation of the old Perry Mercantile Building by the Whitehead family to the City of Del Rio and Val Verde County. The museum preserves historical and tangible artifacts that reflect the early history, cultures and economies of Del Rio and Val Verde County.
Measuring 1,400 feet long and the result of 4 million years of geologic change, the Kickapoo Cavern State Park is the home to thousands of Mexican free-tailed bats. The bats live in the cave from mid-March to the end of October and leave the cave each evening at dusk to hunt for their prey, giving visitors a unique visual experience. The park is home to over 240 migrant and resident bird species , a popular overnight stay site and miles of popular hike and bike trails.
Laughlin Heritage Foundation Museum houses interesting information about Laughlin Air Force Base and the early years of aviation in Val Verde County. The museum has many artifacts related to the Cuban Missile Crisis and includes many items gifted by people who served at the base, especially the 4080th Strategic Reconnaissance Wing.
Judge Roy Bean established his Jersey Lilly saloon, helping to stir an already roiling pot of lawlessness, before capturing the position of justice of the peace. Today, the Jersey Lilly and the opera house Bean built combine to create the Judge Roy Bean Visitors Center.
Ciudad Acuña is an epicenter for Mexico’s most cherished traditions, where visitors, families and friends meet to rejoice in good times. Cd. Acuña offers excellent recreation, concerts, discotheques, hotels, novelties and festivals celebrating traditional Mexican holidays, like 16 de Septiembre, Día de Muertos, Revolution Day and Cinco de Mayo. Cd. Acuña is also a hub for affordable, quality healthcare.
Fort Stockton was established in March 1859 as Camp Stockton. The army withdrew from Texas during the Civil War and abandoned Fort Stockton in 1861. Confederate troops briefly occupied the site until they, too, withdrew in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was re-established by four companies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment.
The 9th was one of the new regiments, organized after the Civil War, staffed with African-American enlisted men known as Buffalo Soldiers.
The community was originally known as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the name to Fort Stockton in 1881.
Fort Stockton was incorporated as a city in December of 1910 and elected its first mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the county seat of Pecos County, the second-largest county in the state. Covering nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County is one of Texas’ largest energy producers, combining renewable energy with fossil fuels. Tourism, agriculture, retail sales and the service industry are also important contributors to the local economy.
Located in the renovated Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, early pioneers, vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www.historicfortstocktontx.com
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The historic saloon offers visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws once drank and watched the construction of what is now the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday through Sunday (2:30 p.m.–8 p.m.). (432) 336-WINE. Available for special events and group appointments.
Beginning at the Visitor Center, the self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features 17 locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264
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Paisano Pete, located in the center of town on the corner of Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the Southwest. Fort Stockton’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings and has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival. He is one of the most photographed ”birds” in the world.
In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a testament to the hard and often violent life on the early frontier.
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This important Indian Wars fort was active from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and immigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks housing the museum and period displays. 301 East Third Street (432) 336-2400
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John Thomas Monahan is the name of the man who dug the well and for whom the community of Monahans is named. The discovery of water at the site of present-day Monahans was a breakthrough, according to the Encyclopedia of the New West, written in 1881, which notes, “The Texas and Pacific Railroad found here its first inexhaustible supply of pure water.” For the first time, it became apparent that the “Monahans Well” may have had a very significant impact.
Monahans Sandhills State Park is noted for the presence of sand dunes up to 70 feet high. Although desert-like, the Monahans Sandhills are not a desert; they are a part of a semi-arid ecosystem (average annual rainfall: 12.3 inches) characterized by the presence of both groundwater and relatively nutrient-poor windblown sand. The shinoak (Quercus havardii) is a local climax shrub, an unusual type of oak tree that, because of local conditions, often achieves full growth of only four feet in height. Most of a shinoak’s biomass exists in the form of a lengthy root system reaching down to groundwater. If a Monahans sand dune has become stabilized and stopped blowing about in the wind, it is often because a small grove of shinoaks have stabilized the dune with their extensive root systems. Despite the sterility of the landscape, various rodents
are relatively common, and several packs of Sandhills coyotes feed upon them.
Much of the Monahans Sandhills are privately owned property. The state of Texas is operating a 99-year lease with the SealySmith Foundation for the ranch on which most of the land of the state park is located; the park opened to the public in 1957, and the state park has leasehold rights to this parcel of the sand hills until 2056. The Monahans Sandhills are part of the Permian Basin of hydrocarbon formations, and some oil production continues in and around the state park.
Visitors practice several local forms of recreation at the Monahans Sandhills, such as sandboarding, sand volleyball, sand surfing and sand tobogganing.
Five miles northeast of Monahans off I20. (432) 943-2092
Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 am–6 pm (432) 943-8401
Located at the Million Barrel, this 14.5acre site is a historical potpourri. Built in 1928, the tank was designed to hold over a million barrels of crude oil and today provides a perfect performance venue for the 400-seat Meadows Amphitheater. Boasting a wide variety of historical artifacts, the Ward County Museum complex is a must-do for any history buff.
Coca-Cola Museum: Commemorates the Coca-Cola bottling plant and the Big Burger Restaurant. It is a private collection donated to the museum by Dan and Elaine Wetzig and the Conrad Dunagan family. The collection contains all kinds of Coca-Cola memorabilia and collectibles.
Heritage Museum: Contains numerous antique collections of cameras, medical instruments, rifles and shotguns dated back to the early ’20s, surveying equipment, oilfield equipment and a pennyfarthing bicycle.
Railroad Museum: See antiques from the Pyote Train Depot, the rail car and caboose, and the SWBT last “step” office in Texas.
The Pyote Bomber Base Museum: This important collection is a wonderful venue for WWII enthusiasts. Visit their newest exhibit and learn about the Pyote Army Airfield, which trained B-17 and B-29 crews.
An 18-hole course that features 6,669 yards of golf from the longest tees for a par of 72. The course rating is 69.9 and has a slope rating of 115 on Bermuda grass. The golf course opened in 1934.
zona, the only town in over 2,800 square miles of Crockett County, was organized in 1891 and bears the name of Alamo hero David Crockett. Ozona is not only rich in history but offers an array of activities. Visit a three-story period museum or a nearby fort to understand life out west. From historical walking and nature tours to off-roading and scenic drives, there truly is something for the whole family. Discover local and area attractions at www.ozona.com.
Open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m., and Saturdays from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. 24-hour restrooms. Find local and regional details as well as tourist information for a 300-mile radius of Ozona. Located at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy 163 South. Exit 365. www.ozona.com Facebook page: OzonaChamber
One of four posts established in 1855 to protect the military route between San Antonio and El Paso. Visitors may wander through the ruins of the fort still standing guard over the Pecos River Valley. Located 33 miles west of Ozona off U.S. 290, in Crockett County, travelers can also stop at an observation point for a spectacular view of a valley once roamed by pioneers. www.visitfortlancaster.com
Three-story period museum featuring an award-winning Indian exhibit, general store, bank room, saddle room and many other exhibits. Experience a way of life lived by so many before us. www.ozonamuseum.com
Open to the public seven days a week and located just across the parking lot of the visitor center at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy 163 South. A great collection of native plants from within a 100-mile radius of Ozona, along with an exhibit on how to collect rain water. www.ozona.com
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uge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground.
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The only outfitter by the park! Visit this fullservice dive shop for swim gear and to schedule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies you’ll need for your visit to Balmorhea State Park.
THE WATERS OF SAN SOLOMON SPRINGS SURFACE AT TOYAHVALE, WHERE THE 1.75ACRE SPRING-FED SWIMMING POOL AT BALMORHEA STATE PARK PROVIDES VISITORS WITH A WELCOME OPPORTUNITY FOR REFRESHING RECREATION IN THE DESERT
The pool maintains a constant temperature of 72-76 degrees Fahrenheit, making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17 through the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass is one of the prettiest in the region.
Just south of the pool, on Highway 17 to Fort Davis, is the memorial fence. The associated Thundering Hooves nonprofit seeks to bring attention to hardships faced by wild and domestic horses. www.thunderinghooves.com
Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toyahvale on Highway 290. The church, which served the area from around 1902 into the 1940s, was restored in 2002.
addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a ref-reathtaking mountains and high-country hikes. Sheer river canyons and winding back roads. Exotic panoramas and star-studded nights. Adventure in the unspoiled West awaits you in the Texas Mountain Trail Region of far West Texas. See land as early man saw it, as the Apache and Comanche saw it, as ranching pioneers saw it.
Visit Big Bend National Park, hike the spectacular South Rim Trail. Follow the Butterfield Overland Stagecoach route through Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Visit our charming mountain communities, where cowboys may still go to lunch in town on horseback. Catch a performance at El Paso’s 1930 Plaza Theatre, in the heart of the museum district. Visit adobe missions, still used as churches for local congregations. We invite you to plan your own adventure!
Travel by car, horse, motorcycle, bicycle, RV or by foot — the scenery and the history is unparalleled. Let the Texas
Mountain Trail be your guide to discovery and adventure. Follow the historic 1960s driving route, the original “Texas Mountain Trail” to state and national parks, to the Big Bend of Texas, where the real West is still alive and ready for you to discover.
Look no further than the rugged land of the Texas Mountain Trail Region, and you’ll see our history. Our state and national parks — “bucket list” destinations for most geologists — reveal a past of more than 600 million years of Paleozoic deep marine sediments, volcanic remnants and the bending, folding and uplifting of land. Dinosaurs roamed our land some 248 million years ago, and Big Bend National Park is one of the world’s paleontological jewels.
In our Chihuahuan Desert climate, where there is water, there is the history of man. The Rio Grande gradually carved a deep notch in the mountains, creating a natural river crossing that the Spanish explorers named El Paso del Norte. The river also created glorious canyons in Big Bend National Park. Throughout the
centuries, the climate grew hotter and the land drier. To survive, wildlife and prehistoric hunter-gatherers adapted to desert conditions. Later, diverse groups — Native Americans and Spanish missionaries, soldiers and miners, ranchers and railroaders — passed this way in search of wealth, glory and new beginnings.
The Texas Heritage Trails Program (THTP) is the Texas Historical Commission’s (THC) award-winning heritage tourism initiative. This economic development initiative encourages communities, heritage regions and the state to partner and promote Texas’ historic and cultural resources. These successful local preservation efforts, combined with statewide marketing of heritage regions as tourism destinations, increase visitation to cultural and historic sites and bring more dollars to Texas communities. This in turn supports the THC’s mission to protect and preserve the state’s historic and prehistoric resources for the use, education, economic benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.
AS TEXANS, we’re used to superlatives about our state — everything’s bigger in Texas, after all, as the saying goes.
But when it comes to the Texas Mountain Trail Region, it’s not a stretch to find plenty of additional superlatives that mark the region as a cut above. Here you can find the highest spot in the state, the largest national park, the foremost dark sky reserve ... even the most bird species and the largest telescope.
So sit back and enjoy the magnificence and grandeur that is far West Texas, as evidenced by these unrivaled marvels.
At 8,751 feet, Guadalupe Peak — also known as Signal Peak and situated at the apex of the Guadalupe Mountains — offers spectacular views from Texas’ highest point. This popular peak, accessible via a well-graded hiking trail, is capped by an odd stainless steel monument placed by American Airlines in the 1950s. To get here, hikers endure a strenuous, though rewarding, 8.5mile round-trip trek.
Be aware that Guadalupe Mountains National Park isn’t a park you explore by vehicle. While you’ll see the majestic Guadalupe Mountains from the highway, this national park is essentially a variety of hiking trails that meander throughout the range. Those who experience these trails will discover not merely impressive heights but some of the finest desert hiking in the Southwest as well.
And if peaceful solitude is what you’re seeking, you’ve found your destination. Guadalupe Mountains National Park is one of the least-visited among all national parks, enhancing one’s ability to enjoy the natural surroundings undeterred.
Opened in 1961, Marfa Municipal Golf Course sits at an elevation of 4,882 feet above sea level, the highest for any course in the state. Despite its elevation, the intriguing 9-hole course, which is
almost completely flat, offers spectacular scenery. And your shots are likely to travel farther because of the altitude. But be forewarned: if you miss the fairway with your shot, you’ll likely be dealing with a rocky or pebbly lie. The parallel fairways are wide open and run hard and fast along scattered trees with one pond, small greens, but no sand bunkers.
Nestled in a remote valley of scenic hills, Alpine, located in Brewster County, the largest county by area in the state, is a lively, inviting place — a remote, high-desert gem 90 miles north of Big Bend National Park, far removed from big-city distractions. When you take a deep breath at the 4,475-foot elevation, the air is clean, the mornings and evenings are cool and crisp, and, of course, the stars at night are big and bright — millions of them.
All the towns in the Big Bend region possess a funky, off-the-grid energy, but Alpine — population 6,000 — is the only one that mixes this independent spirit with a sizable and thriving city, which is why it’s known as the “Hub of the Big Bend.” And if enjoying natural beauty is your calling, Alpine features gorgeous sunsets, undulating peaks along the horizon, swaying prairie grasses and mountains of enormous lava rock.
Located on McKelligon Canyon Road in El Paso, Franklin Mountains State Park is the largest urban park in the United States. The park is completely located within the El Paso city limits and covers roughly 37 square miles (or 24,247 acres). There are two hiking trails available for visitors — both are accessible from Loop 375 — and campsites are available as well, both traditional (for tents) and for RVs.
Even though the park is completely within the city limits, it’s home to a variety of wildlife, including small mammals, reptiles and birds. Visitors may even see foxes, mule deer or cougars. In addition, hawks, falcons, bats, owls and Golden Eagles can be found flying in the area. In terms of vegetation, this area is the only known Texas location for the Southwest barrel cactus, and you’ll find yuccas, sotol, cacti and ocotillo as well.
North Franklin Peak reaches an elevation of 7,192 feet, which is roughly 3,000 feet above the city below.
Big Bend National Park, the largest protected area of the Chihuahuan Desert, features more than 450 reported bird species, more than any other U.S. national park, with the Colima Warbler possibly the most famous.
The best birding in Big Bend is at Rio Grande Village and Cottonwood Campground. You’ll see more species here than at any other single spot in the park. Located at the eastern park boundary, this large campground is right on the Rio Grande River, and the water here is literally an oasis in the desert — it draws in wildlife at a higher concentration than anywhere else in the park.
Also worth a visit is the Chisos Mountains Basin. The Chisos Mountains are a tiny group of mountains in the middle of Big Bend. They shoot up dramatically from the desert floor, creating a space at the top called a sky island. High-elevation trees like Douglas fir and ponderosa pine grow here in abundance, making a totally different environment than the rest of the desert. This unique setting attracts birds that nest in these high elevations like the blue-throated mountaingem, band-tailed pigeon and, of course, the Colima Warbler. (Big Bend National Park is the only public location to see a Colima Warbler in the U.S. They’re often found near the top of the Pinnacles Trail, about 2 hours of hiking from the trailhead.)
Big Bend National Park is located along the Texas-Mexico border, and was established as a national park in June 1935, preserving the largest tracts of Chihuahuan Desert topography and ecology in the United States. The park is comprised of 1,252 square miles of land, making it larger than Rhode Island. Within the park are numerous geographical contrasts. These include the vegetation belts along the Rio Grande, the sparseness of the Chihuahuan Desert, the peaks of the Chisos Mountains and the limestone outcrops of Persimmon Gap and Boquillas Canyon.
Big Bend is named after a stretch of 118 or so miles of the Rio Grande River, one part of which forms a large bend in the
river at the Texas-Mexico border. The park is home to more than 1,200 species of plants, more than 450 species of birds, 75 species of mammals and 56 species of reptiles. Big Bend covers more than 801,000 acres, and is the site of a variety of Cretaceous and Cenozoic fossils, many estimated to be 9,000 years old.
Big Bend National Park is close to the largest state park in the nation, Big Bend Ranch State Park. This remote park features rugged mountains, steep canyons, amazing views, unparalleled night skies and solitude in a high-desert setting. The park stretches along the Rio Grande River on the U.S.–Mexico border. The park has 238 miles of multi-use trails (for hiking, biking and horse riding). You can also explore 70 miles of unmaintained dirt roads in high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles.
The world’s largest International Dark Sky Reserve is the result of a partnership between the University of Texas’ McDonald Observatory, the Nature Conservancy and the International Dark-Sky Association. Established in 2021, the Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve encompasses more than 15,000 square miles in portions of western Texas and northern Mexico. It is the only such reserve to cross an international border.
The core of the reserve, where the protection for dark skies is strongest, is formed by the lands of McDonald Observatory and the Nature Conservancy’s Davis Mountain Preserve. The full extent of the reserve spans the Rio Grande, from the Davis Mountains of West Texas to the Sierra del Carmen of northern Mexico. In the United States, it includes the Texas counties of Jeff Davis, Brewster, Presidio and a small section of Reeves County. It also includes Big Bend National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park, the Black Gap Wildlife Management Area and the Chinati Mountains State Natural Area.
“This reserve protects both the scientific research and public education missions of McDonald Observatory,” says Taft Armandroff, director of the McDonald Observatory. “Since 1939, the observatory has enabled the
study of the cosmos by faculty, students and researchers at UT- Austin and other Texas institutions of higher learning, with topics ranging from planets orbiting nearby stars to the accelerating expansion of the universe.”
The Hobby-Eberly Telescope (HET), one of the largest in the world with a mirror measuring 36.4 feet by 32.2 feet (11 meters), is located on Mount Fowlkes at UT’s McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis. The large, innovative telescope was designed specifically for spectroscopy, the decoding of light from stars and galaxies to study their properties. This makes it ideal when searching for planets around other stars, studying distant galaxies, exploding stars, black holes and more.
Unlike most other telescopes, which tilt up and down in altitude, the HET’s mirror is always tilted at 55 degrees above the horizon. However, the tracker mounted above the telescope moves in six directions, allowing the HET to study 70 percent of the visible sky. The 80-ton telescope rotates on a bed of air, using air cushions to lift and position the enormous instrument.
At 4,900 feet, Fort Davis, boasting the highest elevation above sea level of any county seat in Texas, beats out Marfa and Alpine for elevation, which sit at 4,685 and 4,475 feet, respectively.
For comparison, El Paso sits at 3,740 feet above sea level and Midland sits at 2,782 feet above sea level.
A popular destination in Big Bend country’s Jeff Davis County is state highway 118N (Spur 118) — the highest paved highway in Texas — which is widely considered one of the most breathtaking in the state because of its unique alpine landscape, high elevations (from 5,050 feet at the courthouse to 6,790 feet atop Mount Locke at the 82-inch Otto Struve Telescope) and deep canyons cut by creeks carrying seasonal runoff from a number of peaks over the ages. Popular with cyclists and motorcyclists, this is a must-drive highway.
The summit of Mount Locke, accessed by Spur 78, is the highest drivable point on Texas highways.
Photography enthusiast Lee Hoy took this photo outside his home in the Davis Mountains using a “live composite mode,” which captures star trails in one image. He left the camera outside all night to get this remarkable shot. Hoy teaches night-sky photography workshops all over the Big Bend area, which is one of the world’s best destinations to capture images of the night sky.