Last year, the Republic of Serbia and the Republic of Armenia celebrated 30 years of diplomatic relations, but the ties between the two peoples stretch far deeper into the past. Across Serbia – from the Jermenčić Monastery, founded in 1392 by Armenian soldiers who left the Ottoman army to join the Serbs, to the Armenian tombstones at Kalemegdan, and the Čenazi family grave in Novi Sad, where the proud Armenian church once stood – traces of this shared history can still be found. Three years ago also marked the 175th anniversary of the printing of great works of Serbian literature – Vuk Karadžić’s New Testament, Njegoš’s The Mountain Wreath, and Branko Radičević’s Poems –in the Armenian printing house in Vienna. The Armenian ambassador has also spoken about the friendly bonds linking Serbia and Armenia.
My first encounter with Armenian culture, history and tradition came when I arrived in Novi Sad to study in 1988 and became interested in the fate of the needlessly demolished Armenian church. That same year, on 12 December, a tragedy brought the Serbian and Armenian peoples even closer. The seven-member crew of an AN-12 aircraft lost their lives when the plane crashed near Yerevan while delivering humanitarian aid to those affected by the devastating earthquake. Among those who perished were Lieutenant Colonels Predrag Marinković and Milan Mičić, Majors
Vladimir Erčić and Milenko Simić, and Senior Warrant Officers Milisav Petrović, Boriša Mosurović and Jovan Zisov. As a gesture of gratitude for the aid provided and in memory of the fallen crew, the Armenian people presented Belgrade in 1993 with a khachkar – a stone cross, a distinctive symbol of Armenian culture. This memorial cross, placed in Zemun Park, stands as a place of remembrance for the members of the Air Force who died. Another khachkar was gifted to Novi Sad, where it stands beside the Čenazi family grave, close to the site where the Armenian church, demolished in 1963, once stood.
I first visited Armenia with friends in 2017 and experienced firsthand the Armenians’ warmth towards Serbs. When they heard us speaking Serbian, people would literally stop us in the street, inviting us for drinks and conversation. I have stayed in touch with several friends I made back then to this day.
Over the past two years, I have been a guest at the Yerevan Dialogue conference, organised by Armenia’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, to present the country’s position amid current geopolitical shifts to global audiences. The special edition in front of you is the result of joint work by the editorial team of Diplomacy & Commerce magazine and the Embassy of the Republic of Armenia. We hope you will enjoy the articles we have prepared and that In Focus: Armenia will be another step forward on the shared path of friendship between our two nations.
Robert Čoban
Commemoration of Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day next to the Khachkar in Zemun Park, Belgrade, Serbia — photo by Goran Zlatković
ARMENIA AND SERBIA
A PARTNERSHIP ROOTED IN HISTORY AND LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
From centuries-old cultural ties to modern cooperation in economy, tourism and diplomacy, Armenia sees Serbia as a key partner on its balanced path between East and West
For this special In Focus: Armenia edition of Diplomacy & Commerce magazine, we spoke with H.E. Ashot Hovakimian, Ambassador of the Republic of Armenia to the Republic of Serbia. In an exclusive interview, Ambassador Hovakimian reflects on the centuries-long friendship between Armenia and Serbia, the cultural heritage that unites the two nations, and the opportunities for deeper cooperation in areas
ARMENIA AND SERBIA SHARE A LONG-STANDING TRADITION OF FRIENDLY RELATIONS, GROUNDED IN COMMON HISTORICAL EXPERIENCES AND MUTUAL UNDERSTANDING
H.E. ASHOT HOVAKIMIAN
The Ambassador of Armenia to Serbia
such as economy, tourism, and diplomacy as Armenia pursues a balanced foreign policy and a stronger presence on the global stage.
Armenia and Serbia enjoy traditionally friendly relations. How would you assess the current state of bilateral cooperation, and in which areas do you see the greatest potential for further development?
Armenia and Serbia share a long-standing tradition of friendly relations, grounded in common historical experiences and mutual understanding. I believe that the most important foundation for further strengthening these ties is maintaining a genuine sensitivity to each other’s national priorities. In this context, we hope that Serbia, together with other partners, will unequivocally support the territorial integrity of the Republic of Armenia: a signal of solidarity that we deeply value, yet have regrettably not witnessed in recent times. We are also looking forward to high-level reciprocal visits from Serbia, which will provide an excellent opportunity to explore deeper collaboration in the various fields. These visits will help translate our historical friendship into concrete projects and initiatives.
In this regard, we also attach importance to the ArmenianSerbian Intergovernmental Commission, where the appointment of a Serbian co-chair is still pending. Once the commission is operational, it can serve as a practical platform for advancing our economic and sectoral cooperation. At the same time, we have a number of draft agreements ready for signing soon, and their adoption would give a solid institutional framework to our partnership.
At the same time, it is vital to focus on cooperation that directly benefits our peoples. Tourism is one such area: Armenian citizens already travel to Serbia frequently thanks to the visa-free regime, and we would very much like to see more Serbian visitors discovering Armenia. As the world’s first Christian state, Armenia offers ancient monasteries, rich cultural heritage, and a distinctive cuisine, all of which, I believe, would resonate with Serbians.
Overall, by combining mutual respect for each other’s priorities with tangible cooperation in various fields, I see great potential for Armenia–Serbia relations to grow even stronger in the years ahead.
The Armenian community in Serbia has a long and rich history. How do you view its role today, both in preserving cultural identity and in serving as a bridge between our two nations? Armenians have been present in Serbia for centuries, contributing as craftsmen,
builders, and merchants, and even leaving a mark on Serbian spiritual and cultural life. Today the Armenian community is small in number but continues to act as a living bridge, with families in places like Vrnjačka Banja maintaining traditions that reflect our intertwined histories. At the same time, many Armenian heritage sites in Serbia: churches, cemeteries, and monuments, remain under-recognized or unpreserved, with only a few newer symbols, such as the khachkars in Zemun and Novi Sad, serving as reminders of solidarity and shared memory.
Looking ahead, there is clear potential for both countries to do more: documenting and restoring heritage sites, developing cultural projects, and integrating these legacies into tourism initiatives. Such efforts would not only honour our past but also strengthen the foundation for friendship and cooperation in the future.
Beyond culture, how do you perceive the evolving economic and institutional partnership between Armenia and Serbia, especially in sectors that reflect shared expertise or innovation rather than direct investment figures?
There is significant scope for Armenia and Serbia to expand cooperation in forward-looking sectors such as the digital economy, renewable energy, and infrastructure development. Armenia has developed notable strengths in information technology and innovation, boasting a vibrant start-up ecosystem and a skilled workforce. These assets can complement Serbia’s expertise in engineering, industrial production, and applied sciences. Together, our countries could explore joint ventures in fields such as software development, fintech, smart manufacturing, and green technologies, creating investment partnerships that not only generate economic value but also enhance competitiveness in regional and global markets.
THE ARMENIAN COMMUNITY IS SMALL IN NUMBER BUT CONTINUES TO ACT AS A LIVING BRIDGEING BRIDGE
Tourism also offers considerable untapped potential. Armenian citizens already travel frequently to Serbia under the visa-free regime, and we hope to see a growing number of Serbian tourists discovering Armenia’s unique heritage. With its ancient monasteries, mountain landscapes, and distinctive cuisine, Armenia is well positioned to attract visitors seeking authentic cultural experiences. Joint initiatives, such as promotional campaigns, tour packages, or cooperation between travel agencies, could stimulate the flow of tourists in both directions. Such exchanges would not only boost local economies but also strengthen the people-to-people ties that form the most lasting foundation of bilateral relations.
The “Yerevan Dialogue” has been presented as a new platform for strengthening Armenia’s role in regional and international cooperation. How do you see its significance in the current geopolitical environment?
The Yerevan Dialogue is an important platform for Armenia to enhance its regional and international role, particularly in today’s complex geopolitical setting. It brings together policymakers, academics, civil society, and business leaders to discuss shared challenges such as peace, climate change, and economic interconnectivity. Armenia’s strategic location between Europe and Asia, its rapid economic growth, and rich cultural heritage provide a unique setting for international cooperation and debate. The conference also highlights Armenia’s commitment to regional stability, sustainable development, and multipolar diplomacy.
The inaugural edition of the Yerevan Dialogue was held in 2024, establishing itself as a valuable and inclusive forum for addressing contemporary issues and promoting global cooperation. The second edition, held in May 2025 under the theme “Navigating the Unknown,” underscored Armenia’s commitment to fostering dialogue and offering solutions. Initiatives such as the Crossroads of Peace, promoting regional integration through infrastructure and trade, were highlighted, reflecting Armenia’s determination to overcome historic blockades and isolation.
By hosting this forum and convening diverse voices from Europe, the Middle East, and beyond, Armenia positions itself as a neutral and constructive hub for dialoguer strengthening both its diplomatic leverage and its contribution to regional cooperation.
Peace and stability in the South Caucasus remain of key importance. How optimistic are you about the ongoing peace
negotiations with Azerbaijan, and what role do you see for international partners in supporting this process?
On 8 August, the meeting between the Prime Minister of the Republic of Armenia, the President of the Republic of Azerbaijan and the President of the United States of America in Washington D.C., opened a new chapter in our region’s history by initialing the Agreement on Establishment of Peace and Inter-State relations between the Republic of Azerbaijan and the Republic of Armenia by the Ministers of Foreign Affairs of the two countries On the outcomes of the meeting, the leaders of three countries also signed a Joint Declaration, which includes the establishment of the “Trump Route for International Peace and Prosperity” (TRIPP) and aims to enhance regional connectivity and economic cooperation between our nations. Three other memorandums were also signed bilaterally between Armenia and USA, one of which reaffirms USA’s support to the “Crossroads of Peace” initiative of the Government of the Republic of Armenia.
THERE IS SIGNIFICANT SCOPE FOR ARMENIA AND SERBIA TO EXPAND COOPERATION IN FORWARDLOOKING SECTORS SUCH AS THE DIGITAL ECONOMY, RENEWABLE ENERGY, AND INFRASTRUCTURE
DEVELOPMENT
The peace agreement and the “Crossroads of Peace” initiative are central to Armenia’s evolving national security strategy and longterm economic roadmap. The “Crossroads of Peace” project aims to transform Armenia into a land-linked hub by opening and improving transport communications with Azerbaijan, Turkey, Georgia, Iran, EU and other stakeholders. This is not just an economic initiative - it is a critical security strategy. Greater regional interdependence reduces the risk of conflict and fosters long-term stability.
Hereby, the international partners remain essential to the peace process. Their diplomatic support, mediation, and economic assistance help ensure the successful implementation of agreements and contribute to long-term regional stability. With continued international engagement and commitment from all sides, I believe we can look to the future of the region with cautious optimism.
In this spirit, Armenia is preparing to host two major international events in 2026: The European Political Community summit and the COP17 Biodiversity Conference which reflect our growing international prestige and reaffirm our commitment to dialogue and sustainable development.
Armenia is also pursuing closer cooperation with the European Union while maintaining its EAEU commitments. How does this multi-vector approach shape Armenia’s foreign policy priorities?
By engaging both the European Union and the Eurasian Economic Union, we seek to expand opportunities in different directions while ensuring balance and resilience in a complex geopolitical environment. As the Prime Minister of
the Republic of Armenia has announced at the beginning of this year, we have decided to adopt a balanced and balancing foreign policy, which means that we will try to create balance between our different relations with the European Union, USA, China, India, Russia, with our regional powers etc.
Our partnership with the European Union has gained new depth in recent years. The Comprehensive and Enhanced Partnership Agreement (CEPA) remains the legal foundation of our cooperation, and through it Armenia is actively working to align with EU legislation and standards in a wide range of sectors. It is worth mentioning that recently Armenia’s National Assembly adopted the “Law on the Launch of Armenia’s EU Accession Process” which reflects the European aspirations of our people and underlines our commitment to reform and modernization. The new Armenia–EU Partnership Agenda can further expand this framework and provide a roadmap for deepened cooperation in governance, connectivity, green transition, and the digital economy.
In this context, Serbia is of special interest to Armenia. As a candidate country for EU membership, Serbia has accumulated valuable experience in accession negotiations, particularly in areas such as justice, economic reforms, and visa liberalization. Learning from Serbia’s progress and challenges can be highly beneficial for Armenia as we advance on our own European path. We see great potential for structured dialogue and knowledge-sharing in this regard.
At the same time, our membership in the Eurasian Economic Union ensures access to a large regional market and strengthens trade and economic ties with our neighbours. Rather than being contradictory, our
cooperation with both the EU and the EAEU is complementary, widening the scope of Armenia’s partnerships.
Armenia’s balanced and balancing policy reflects its vision of openness positioning the country as a connector between regions, expanding opportunities for its people, and fostering peace and stability in the South Caucasus.
Looking ahead, what message would you like to send to the Serbian public and business community regarding Armenia’s vision for partnership and long-term cooperation?
Our countries share many similarities: we are both landlocked, both proud of our rich histories, and both committed to building a secure and prosperous future for our people. Armenia is open and ready to expand partnerships across a wide spectrum: economy, trade, culture, tourism, education, and innovation.
To the Serbian public and business community, I would say that Armenia offers opportunities that are both concrete and mutually beneficial. We welcome Serbian investors, entrepreneurs, and innovators to explore the Armenian market, to discover our skilled workforce, and to participate in projects ranging from technology to infrastructure, as well as in cultural and tourism initiatives.
ARMENIA’S BALANCED AND BALANCING POLICY REFLECTS ITS VISION OF OPENNESS POSITIONING THE COUNTRY AS A CONNECTOR BETWEEN REGIONS
Moreover, Armenia values people-to-people connections as much as formal partnerships. Strengthening cultural exchange, educational cooperation, and tourism links can create trust, understanding, and long-term collaboration that goes beyond business deals. I am sure that together, we can translate our historical friendship into tangible benefits for our societies, ensuring that cooperation today lays the foundation for a strong and shared future.
Photo: Goran Zlatković
Ambassador in front of the Khatchar in Zemun Park, Belgrade, Serbia
ARMENIA AS A STRATEGIC GATEWAY FOR SERBIAN INVESTORS
With access to Eurasian, Iranian and European markets, strong state incentives and a one-stop support model, Armenia positions itself as a stable and profitable hub for regional growth
For this economic special of Diplomacy & Commerce magazine, we spoke with Gohar Abajyan, Chief Executive Officer of Enterprise Armenia — the national investment promotion agency of the Republic of Armenia. Acting as a true “one-stop shop” for investors, Enterprise Armenia guides projects from initial concept through permits, incentives, and post-investment support, while actively promoting Armenia’s key sectors and shaping policies to ensure a competitive and predictable business environment.
Armenia positions itself as a strategic hub with access to major markets. How do you see this advantage benefiting potential investors from Serbia specifically?
When we speak about Armenia as a hub, it’s not just a slogan, it’s a practical reality. From Armenia, Serbian companies can reach three major directions at once.
First, as a member of the Eurasian Economic Union, we offer tariff-free access to a market of 180 million consumers, including Russia, Kazakhstan, Belarus and Kyrgyzstan. This gives Serbian manufacturers or agro-producers who invest here an immediate channel to expand eastward with harmonized rules and lower costs.
Second, our ties with Iran are becoming increasingly significant. With the EAEU–Iran Free Trade Agreement, which entered into force in May 2025, Armenia is the natural gateway
GOHAR ABAJYAN CEO of Enterprise Armenia
for accessing Iran’s 80-million-strong market under preferential terms. Combined with the North–South Corridor connecting the Persian Gulf to Black Sea ports, this creates new trade routes that Serbian companies can leverage.
At the same time, Armenia is closely aligned with Europe. The CEPA agreement and our Common Aviation Area with the EU ensure regulatory compatibility and efficient transport connections. This makes operations smoother for companies that are already familiar with European standards.
Taken together, these directions position Armenia as a true bridge between Europe, Asia, and the Gulf, a crossroads where Serbian investors can base their operations and extend reach across multiple regions.
On top of this, Armenia offers strong incentives: Free Economic Zones with full tax exemptions, competitive costs and a skilled workforce. The double taxation treaty with Serbia provides additional certainty for cross-border business. In short, Armenia offers Serbia a stable, efficient, and profitable platform for regional growth.
FROM ARMENIA, SERBIAN
COMPANIES CAN REACH THREE MAJOR DIRECTIONS AT ONCE
Enterprise Armenia acts as a “single window” for investors. Could you share some concrete examples of how this model has streamlined investment projects in recent years?
Enterprise Armenia operates as a true single window for investors, accompanying projects from the earliest idea to full launch and continuing with post-investment support. Whether it is a foreign investor entering Armenia for the first time or a local entrepreneur expanding operations, Enterprise Armenia takes on the entire process: from discussions and negotiations with government and local authorities to drafting roadmaps that clearly outline each step, to facilitating legal acts when required by the Government.
ENTERPRISE ARMENIA OPERATES
AS A TRUE SINGLE WINDOW FOR INVESTORS, ACCOMPANYING PROJECTS FROM THE EARLIEST IDEA TO FULL LAUNCH
In practice, this means investors do not face a fragmented system. For example, the MyLer Free Economic Zone, a major tourism and sports cluster that required land allocation, environmental permits, and access to Free Economic Zone incentives such as tax breaks and customs exemptions, did not have to navigate four separate ministries; instead, all approvals were sequenced and delivered through one channel.
Or consider high-tech. When a leading semiconductor firm explored Armenia, the investor’s first questions spanned taxation, talent, and infrastructure. Normally this would require engaging with three different ministries. Through the “single window,” the company received an integrated investor brief, legal clarifications, and direct introductions to universities - all through one channel. Even in sensitive projects such as the Firebird AI Factory, Armenia’s large-scale AI data center, where regulatory, security and energy considerations are critical, the single window has acted as a bridge between state agencies and private stakeholders. Instead of piecemeal correspondence, investors are receiving a unified government position and a fast-tracked negotiation process.
Armenia offers a wide range of fiscal and financial incentives. Which of these are proving most attractive to international investors and why?
Armenia has deliberately shaped its incentive framework to meet the highest expectations of international investors, ensuring it is competitive, transparent and designed to support long-term value creation.
The most important recent development is the adoption of the Law on State Support for the High-Tech Sector. It offers 60% income tax reimbursement on new jobs, 200% deductibility of R&D wages, a 1% turnover tax for tech firms, accelerated depreciation of R&D assets and tax rebates for training staff. Together, these measures cut labor and R&D costs, incentivize innovation and provide longterm predictability for investors.
Beyond high-tech, Armenia offers Free Economic Zones, exemptions from customs duties on imported equipment, subsidized financing through the Modernization of Economic Capacities Program, co-funded infrastructure under the infrastructure-for-investment scheme and capital investment reimbursements of up to 35% for major projects.
The high-tech sector is highlighted as a priority. How does Armenia nurture its tech talent and ensure continuous growth in this industry?
Armenia’s technology sector thrives because the country cultivates talent from the earliest ages and provides clear pathways from education to high-value employment. Programs such as the TUMO Center for Creative Technologies, the nationwide network of Armath Engineering Labs, and the Generation AI initiative introduce schoolchildren to coding, robotics, design and AI. These extracurricular platforms engage more than 25,000 young Armenians each year, giving them early exposure to technology, sparking creativity, and building practical skills long before they enter university.
This early engagement is reinforced by a strong academic foundation, with leading universities graduating more than 5,000 STEM specialists annually, creating a workforce that is
skilled, multilingual and globally competitive. Complementary initiatives like Engineering City and regional technology centers in Gyumri and Vanadzor link classroom learning with industry practice and connect talent directly to the labor market.
To ensure continuous growth, Armenia integrates its talent pipeline with strategic projects and international partnerships such as Plug and Play, AWS, Cisco Network Academy. At the same time, major private investments create high-value opportunities at home. A flagship example is Firebird’s forthcoming regional data factory, which will position Armenia as a hub for data processing, artificial intelligence and highperformance computing. This project will not only anchor world-class infrastructure in Armenia but also absorb the highly skilled graduates of these educational and vocational programs, turning early potential into globally competitive expertise.
The “Crossroads of Peace” initiative is an ambitious vision. What assurances does it provide to foreign investors who are considering long-term commitments in Armenia?
The “Crossroads of Peace” initiative is more than a transport vision; it is a framework that provides clarity, security and opportunity for investors looking at Armenia over the long term. Built on the principles of sovereignty, jurisdiction, equality and reciprocity, the project guarantees that every state retains full control over the infrastructure on its own territory. For foreign investors this translates into predictable rules of the game and a transparent regulatory environment for cross-border trade, logistics, and industrial operations.
ARMENIA HAS DELIBERATELY SHAPED ITS INCENTIVE FRAMEWORK TO MEET THE HIGHEST EXPECTATIONS OF INTERNATIONAL INVESTORS
At the same time, the initiative is designed to strengthen regional connectivity, positioning Armenia as a natural hub linking the Black Sea to the Caspian and Europe to the Middle East and Asia. This enhanced connectivity is not only about smoother transport routes but also about an emerging ecosystem of new opportunities in logistics centers, industrial parks, tourism infrastructure, and renewable energy. In this way Armenia emerges into a true crossroads for goods, services and large-scale investments- a regional hub where international partners can align commercial success with long-term sustainable growth.
Economic diplomacy seems central to Enterprise Armenia’s mission. How do you balance global promotion with providing aftercare and policy advocacy for already established investors?
For us at Enterprise Armenia, attracting new investors and retaining existing ones are not separate tasks but two sides of the same mission. Our work in economic diplomacy is about more than promotion-it is about telling Armenia’s story to the world, highlighting priority sectors, convening international forums, leading business missions and strategic partnerships that place Armenia firmly on the global investment map. This
proactive promotion ensures visibility and creates a steady pipeline of new investors.
What matters just as much as attracting investors is how we support them once they are here. Through our One-StopShop model, companies receive guidance from registration and permits to reinvestment and growth, while dedicated aftercare ensures their concerns are heard and resolved. Investor feedback directly informs government reforms in taxation, customs, labor and digital governance, keeping Armenia’s business climate aligned with international standards. By combining promotion abroad with support and reform at home, Enterprise Armenia builds the confidence that turns first-time investments into long-term commitments.
Tourism and green energy are also among Armenia’s promoted sectors. What unique opportunities do you see for growth and partnerships in these areas?
In tourism, Armenia is diversifying its offerings, from cultural heritage and wine routes to eco-tourism in national parks. A flagship example is the Myler Mountain Resort, a large-scale project just one hour from Yerevan, which is transforming Armenia’s mountain tourism with European-standard ski slopes, lifts, and accommodation. Myler has Free Economic Zone status, creating significant tax incentives, and is open to international brands in hospitality, retail, winter sports, and lifestyle services. Armenia welcomes global brands to bring expertise, quality and recognition to its growing tourism landscape.
I SEE SERBIA AND ARMENIA’S ECONOMIC PARTNERSHIP EVOLVING INTO MORE THAN BILATERAL TRADE – IT CAN BECOME A BRIDGE BETWEEN OUR REGIONS
In green energy, Armenia has set ambitious goals through its 2040 Energy Sector Development Strategy and renewable-energy programs. The government aims to raise solar generation to at least 15% (1.8 TWh) by 2030 through around 1,000 MW of capacity, while also planning 500 MW of utility-scale wind by 2040. Landmark projects such as the 200 MW Ayg-1 solar plant demonstrate strong investor confidence. The World Bank is financing transmission upgrades to integrate over 1 GW of renewables by 2032, and the EBRD is supporting large-scale solar projects. Together, these developments create opportunities not only in solar and wind generation, but also in smart grids, battery storage, and green construction.
Together, these efforts show Armenia’s commitment to sustainable growth and create platforms where international partners can align commercial success with long-term impact.
Looking ahead, what role do you expect Serbia–Armenia economic relations to play in the broader context of regional integration and cooperation?
I see Serbia and Armenia’s economic partnership evolving into more than bilateral trade-it can become a bridge between our regions. Armenia stands at the intersection of the Eurasian Economic Union, the EU and the Middle East, while Serbia anchors the Western Balkans and connects directly to the EU. This complementarity gives us a natural platform: Serbian companies can reach EAEU and Iranian markets through Armenia and Armenian firms can access the EU and Balkans through Serbia.
Looking ahead, cooperation is likely to deepen in high-tech, agribusiness, pharmaceuticals, and logistics, with joint ventures in areas like food processing or technology services serving not only our domestic economies but wider regional networks. In this way, our partnership contributes directly to broader regional integration.
ECHOES OF THE ARMENIAN PAST IN SERBIA
From Medieval Builders to Novi Sad’s Lost Church – Tracing Centuries of a Community’s Presence
Armenians were described in the 16th century in the Balkans as skilled merchants, stonemasons, and builders. This community left a deep imprint on Serbian territories, which, apart from a single monument in Novi Sad, is today almost entirely unmarked.
There are no precise records about the earliest settlement of Armenians in the Balkans. Most likely, their migration from the Caucasus to these lands occurred during the 10th and 11th centuries, following the advance of the Turks and the fall of the then Armenian capital, Ani, to Turkish control in 1064.
According to tradition, Armenians came to Serbia at the invitation of Saint Sava, who was reportedly impressed by their architectural achievements. They accepted this invitation and, again according to tradition, first built the Vitovnica Monastery in the Braničevo district. However, this monastery was actually founded much later, at the end of the 13th century, during the reign of King Milutin, although Armenian builders did indeed participate in its construction. This is evidenced by a bilingual donor’s plaque at the monastery, which reads: “In the name of the Father and the Son and the Holy Spirit, I, Ladon, Babug’s son, built this church in the name of Saint Jacob the Patriarch and Saint Peter the Apostle for the remembrance of myself and my parents (…) in the year 667 of the Armenian calendar.”
Later traditions about the Battle of Kosovo also mention an Armenian detachment that was part of the Ottoman army but
MONUMENT IN NOVI SAD
HIDES THE TOMB OF THE ČENAZI FAMILY AND OTHER ARMENIANS
Photo: Jovan Vajld, 1963
Armenian Church of the Gregory the Illuminator, Novi Sad
switched to the Serbian side during the battle. The surviving members of this detachment were said to have settled in the area around Sokobanja afterwards, where they founded a monastery named Jermenčić. However, as there are no material traces of this, the story most likely belongs to the realm of legend.
ArmenIAnS In nOVI SAD
On the pavement of one of Novi Sad’s busiest streets, in Mihajlo Pupin Boulevard, near the underpass and bus stop, a monument has stood for decades. It is unclear what intrigues more – the names carved into the pink stone pedestal, the text inscribed in an archaic form of German, or the white marble skulls at the top of the pedestal, holding another plaque that bears flaming hearts and the word: “Inseparable.”
ARMENIAN BUILDERS TOOK PART IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF VITOVNICA MONASTERY
For most passers-by, what this monument represents remains a mystery – as does the fact that beneath it lies a tomb containing the remains of the Armenian Čenazi family and numerous other Armenians. In the immediate vicinity of the monument, on the site of today’s business complex, stood an Armenian church as recently as six decades ago.
IN THE 13TH CENTURY
Written records of the presence of Armenians in the Balkans are sporadic until the 16th century, when they appear in the historical record as skilled merchants and craftsmen. The first prominent recorded members of Belgrade’s Armenian community were Aslan and Alpiar Bagratuni, who settled in Belgrade in 1521, as documented in a record kept at the Armenian Monastery in Venice. It states that the two of them generously supported the Armenian church in Belgrade. This Armenian church was located near Obilićev venac, where three 17th-century tombstones were discovered during archaeological excavations. Their exceptional artistic value confirmed the perception of Armenians as master stonemasons and builders. These three slabs are now displayed outdoors at Kalemegdan, near the Republic Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments.
ArmenIAnS In VOJVODInA
In 1739, when Ottoman forces captured Belgrade, the city’s Armenian community crossed the Danube together with the Serbs. Upon their arrival in Vojvodina, Armenians were granted nearly full religious rights, primarily within the framework
of the Armenian Catholic Church, which soon became the sole Armenian religious community in the region.
The Armenian colony, numbering around 150 members, was settled near the Petrovaradin Fortress. In Novi Sad, Armenians became renowned for their expertise in trading wool, spices, coffee, sugar, and precious metals, later expanding their presence to other parts of Vojvodina, particularly Banat, where some wealthy Armenians acquired large estates.
One of the wealthiest and most prominent landowning families in Vojvodina was the Armenian Čenazi family, who had moved to Novi Sad from Belgrade in 1739. Thanks to them, the Armenian church was built in the city, and for several generations, members of this family served as city senators. The family’s wealth and influence are also evidenced by the preserved family tomb in Novi Sad, where Simeon Čenazi, married to Ana Marija Klara Tomanović, is buried. Over time, the family declined and its descendants dispersed. In addition to the Čenazi, other notable Armenian families included Avedik, Agamal, Minar, Markar, and others.
THe FIrST ArmenIAn CHUrCH
Shortly after their move from Belgrade to Novi Sad in 1739, construction began on the first Armenian church. It was located a few hundred metres from today’s Liberty Square. The building of the church, dedicated to Saint Gregory the Illuminator, and the parish house began in 1744 and was completed two years later. The church’s largest benefactor was Jovan Čenazi, who also served as a city senator for a time. His
Jermencic Monastery
Photo:
tomb bore the inscription: “Mr Joanes Džan azizjan Šorotski, lived here for a time in exile. He was a good man and helped the poor, lived for sixty-seven years and then departed to the Lord in a gentle death and was buried in this splendid grave.”
No photographs of the old church have been preserved, nor detailed descriptions of its appearance. In old drawings, the Armenian church was not clearly visible, although it was marked on the 1774 engraving by Zaharia Orfelin.
THe neW ArmenIAn CHUrCH In nOVI SAD
A turning point in the history of Novi Sad – one that also deeply affected the Armenian community – occurred in 1849 during the revolution, when Hungarian forces from the Petrovaradin Fortress shelled the city centre in response to General Josip Jelačić’s attempt to seize the fortress. Dozens of cannonballs set off fires that destroyed a large number of houses and almost all public and religious buildings, including the Armenian church. The church was reduced to rubble, and its inventory looted. Although contributions for rebuilding the church were collected from Armenian communities throughout Austria-Hungary, reconstruction did not take place for nearly two decades. The turning point came thanks to one of Novi Sad’s wealthiest women, Marija Trandafil, who, after her husband’s death, dedicated herself to philanthropy. In addition to scholarships for poor children, she used her own funds to finance the restoration of Orthodox churches in the city, as well as the Armenian one.
Construction of the new church began in 1872. Although the original plan by renowned architect Đerđ Molnar (who also designed the City Hall and the Church of the Name of Mary in Novi Sad) envisaged a building in the then-dominant Baroque style, this idea was abandoned. Numerous NeoGothic elements were introduced into the project, and the height of the tower was increased to nearly 29 metres. Upon completion, a commemorative plaque was placed on the church façade with an inscription in Serbian: “To the glory of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, and out of humble and pure Christian love for her fellow men, Marija Trandafil rebuilt this House of God, 1872.”
Although the new church was completed, several years passed before it was consecrated and regular services began. The disappearance of Novi Sad’s Armenian community led to a rather negligent attitude by state and city authorities toward the maintenance of the Armenian church.
By the 1950s, the already dilapidated church was being maintained by Johan Samuel Polikarp, but this task had become nearly impossible. Since he was the last Armenian
MARIJA TRANDAFIL FINANCED THE REBUILDING OF THE ARMENIAN CHURCH IN 1872
Photo: Valery Shanin / Shutterstock.com
Photo:
Vanilica / Wikimedia / original file
Khatckhar in Novi Sad
Čenazi Family Monument in Novi Sad
THE CHURCH WAS DEMOLISHED IN 1963 DESPITE PROTESTS FROM HERITAGE
INSTITUTIONS
left in the city – the last Armenian woman of Novi Sad had died in 1948 – the Mekhitarists decided to sell the church to a Catholic order, initially the Franciscans, with the idea of using the funds to build a church in Belgrade, where a small Armenian community had formed after the First World War –but this plan was never realised.
DemOLITIOn OF THe CHUrCH
As the urban development plans foresaw the demolition of the Armenian church in Novi Sad, and since Roman Catholic orders were unwilling to purchase it, the building was left to decay. During a major storm in 1957, the church’s roof was almost destroyed and never repaired.
Then, due to the construction of a new boulevard through the city centre – today’s Mihajlo Pupin Boulevard – and despite protests from urban planners and the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments, a final decision to demolish the church was made in 1963.
The only remaining trace of the Armenian community is the aforementioned Čenazi family tombstone, now protected as a cultural monument of great importance. Originally located in the courtyard of the Armenian church, it was moved several times before finding its current place on Mihajlo Pupin Boulevard in the early 1990s. Around the same time, an Armenian cross – a khachkar – was erected nearby as
ARMENIANS IN BELGRADE
Armenians left a significant mark on the scientific and cultural life of Belgrade. Among them were doctors Vramšapuh Ataljanc and Amajak Muradijan, an engineer, university professor and member of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Jakov Hlitčijev, astrophysicist and director of the Belgrade Observatory Vasilije Vahe Oskanjan, ballet star Ašhen Ataljanc, graphic designers and illustrators from the Vartabedijan family of Armenian descent, as well as composer Vartkes Baronijan, who, among other works, composed music for Dositej Obradović’s poem Arise, Serbia for the 1990 TV series The Pillow of My Grave, written by Slobodan Stojanović and produced by Television Belgrade.
a memorial to the Yugoslav pilots who died in 1988 while transporting humanitarian aid to the victims of the Armenian earthquake.
Other surviving traces of the Armenians’ centuries-long presence in Serbia include three previously mentioned tombstones displayed at Kalemegdan, as well as a khachkar in the park in Zemun, installed in the 1990s and frequently desecrated by vandals. The centuries-old history of Armenians in this region has largely been forgotten.
The full text on Armenians and their heritage by Vladimir Petrović can be read at oko.rts.rs. This excerpt is published with the permission of the author and RTS.
Photo: beogradskevesti.info
Armenian tomb in Kalemegdan
ARMENIANS WHO SHAPED SERBIAN CULTURE
From Classical Music and Fine Arts to Ballet – The Enduring Influence of an Armenian Community
Armenians in Serbia have left a significant mark in various fields of art, particularly in architecture, music, painting, and applied arts. They often combined Armenian tradition with Serbian cultural heritage in their work. The strong cultural ties between the two peoples were especially evident after the First World War, when a large Armenian colony settled in Belgrade. Among the descendants of this community, three important names stand out.
VArTKeS BArOnIJAn
A composer who united classical music, film, and national tradition
Vartkes Baronijan was a prominent composer and music educator who left a profound mark on Serbian and Yugoslav culture. He was born in 1933 in Belgrade, into a family of Armenian refugees who found refuge in Yugoslavia after the great tragedy. The awareness of his origins, as he frequently stated, had a profound impact on his life and creative work.
He began his music education at the “Josip Slavenski” school in Belgrade. He graduated in composition from the Music Academy (now the Faculty of Music) in 1963 under the mentorship of Predrag Milošević. After completing his studies, he worked as a music editor at Radio Television Belgrade and later as a professor at the Faculty of Dramatic Arts, where he taught applied music. His book Music as Applied Art is still regarded as a key work in the field.
REMEMBERED FOR HIS ICONIC FILM MUSIC AND THE COMPOSITION ARISE, SERBIA
and dramatic tension, critics noted, which made them highly appreciated by both audiences and film professionals.
His oeuvre includes concertos for orchestras, string quartets, sonatas, as well as music for film and television. Particularly memorable are his music pieces for the movies On the Way to Katanga, The Death of Mrs Minister, Vukovar, My Love, Banjica, and The Pillow of My Grave... His compositions were characterised by a strong sense of atmosphere
A particularly significant work tied to Serbian cultural tradition is his music set to the verses of Dositej Obradović’s poem Arise, Serbia, composed for Sava Mrmak’s film The Pillow of My Grave. This composition became so popular that many considered it a work from Dositej’s own time, and it has become an inseparable part of numerous public events.
Vartkes Baronijan passed away in 1993 in Belgrade. He is remembered as an artist who successfully united classical music, film art, and national tradition, leaving behind an exceptional body of work.
mIODrAG VArTABeDIJAn
Graphic artist and painter, creator of “vartagraphy” and guardian of cultural heritage
Miodrag Vartabedijan ranks among the most significant graphic artists and painters of the second half of the 20th century in this region. He was born in 1933 in Mladenovac, into a family of Armenian origin. His ancestors settled in the Balkans after World War I. Armenian heritage had a profound influence on Vartabedijan’s life and artistic work.
AŠHen ATALJAnC
KNOWN FOR INVENTING THE UNIQUE TECHNIQUE OF VARTAGRAPHY
He graduated from the Academy of Applied Arts in Belgrade in 1958 and completed his postgraduate studies in 1961. During his professional career, he worked as an educator, teaching graphic design at the Higher Polytechnic School, and also served as a designer in numerous publishing houses and newspapers.
He is particularly remembered for the technique of vartagraphy, named after him, an original process of transferring the reliefs of stone monuments and architectural details onto paper or canvas using paint and chalk. His works preserve the spirit of the past while remaining deeply rooted in the present moment, as critics noted.
He frequently used motifs from Armenian culture, particularly epitaphs and ornaments, blending them with the cultural traditions of the Balkans.
He was the recipient of numerous awards and honours, most notably the ULUPUDS Lifetime Achievement Award (2000). His name and work are also remembered through retrospective exhibitions, the most notable being last year’s at the Ethnographic Museum in Belgrade. The exhibition announcement stated: “The works of Miodrag Vartabedijan Varta reveal a fusion of influences from all the cultures that left their mark on the territory of the former Yugoslavia, and his oeuvre stands out for its originality, which he drew from his Armenian heritage, the Serbian tradition of roadside tombstones and stećak monuments, and the archaeology of the entire region, innovatively introducing a new technique – vartagraphy –through which he transforms the visual threads of the mythical currents of history into symbols, embedding them into a lyrical and contemplative pictorial expression.”
He served as president of the Armenian Community in Serbia and vice-president of the Serbian-Armenian Society. He was married to the artist Dušanka, and they had two children – Anamarija, a distinguished painter and photographer, and David, a renowned graphic designer. Miodrag Vartabedijan passed away in 2009 in Belgrade.
World-class ballerina and dedicated mentor of young dancers
Ašhen Ataljanc is a distinguished Serbian ballerina, choreographer, and teacher.
She was born in 1971 into a family partly of Armenian origin. Her grandfather, Vramšapuh Ataljanc, was a renowned military doctor, while her father, Gabrijel, worked as a neuropsychiatrist. Speaking about her heritage in a newspaper interview, she said: “The name and surname given to us are no coincidence. A name defines us in life. Although I do not speak Armenian nor have I been to Armenia, I belong to that part of the world. My ancestry is not exclusively Armenian. On my grandmother’s side, her mother was German and her
father Hungarian, while on my grandfather’s side, his mother was Ukrainian and his father Armenian – so within my father, as within me, many cultures are interwoven.”
She began her professional career at the age of just 16, becoming the youngest ballet soloist in the history of the National Theatre in Belgrade. She performed major roles in classical ballet, particularly in Swan Lake, Don Quixote, La Bayadère, Giselle
After her time at the National Theatre in Belgrade, she performed in numerous European theatres, most notably with the Bavarian State Opera in Munich and the Berlin State Opera.
THE YOUNGEST BALLET SOLOIST IN THE HISTORY OF THE NATIONAL THEATRE IN BELGRADE
She also excelled in modern ballet, performing with renowned companies such as Aterballetto from Italy and the Bitef Dance Company. She has received numerous awards for her artistic achievements.
She is currently dedicated to educating young dancers through her own dance school, passing on her experience and knowledge to the next generation of ballet artists.
ArIS mOVSeSIJAn
Dentist, writer and film director turned political leader Aris Movsesijan is a Serbian dentist, writer, filmmaker and politician of Armenian descent.
He was born in 1966 in Belgrade, into a family whose paternal line traces back to Armenians who came to Serbia in the aftermath of the early-20th-century upheavals. His grandfather left the Ottoman Empire to avoid forced conscription, and the family kept a strong sense of Armenian identity while fully integrating into Serbian society.
A
SERBIAN PUBLIC FIGURE WHO BRIDGES ARMENIAN HERITAGE, CULTURE AND CIVIC ACTIVISM
Movsesijan graduated from the Faculty of Dental Medicine at the University of Belgrade, where he later contributed scientific papers in the field of periodontology. Alongside his medical career, he developed a wide range of cultural interests. He published the short story collection Likovi i pisci (1995), worked on film projects — as assistant director on Svetsko čudovište (2003) and as screenwriter and director of Aporija (2006), presented at FEST, and remained active as an essayist and blogger.
He entered politics in 2014, initially joining Nova stranka out of a desire to oppose censorship and personality cults. Within the party, he served as coordinator for cultural policy, vice president of the Main Board, and later as president of the Political Council. In October 2020, he became party president. After the 2022 parliamentary elections, in which Nova did not pass the electoral threshold, he stepped down. In late 2023, he joined the Movement of Free Citizens (Pokret slobodnih građana), where he remains a member of the Presidency today.
Throughout his public life, Movsesijan has advocated for cultural freedom, democratic values and recognition of the Armenian historical experience, including the 1915 genocide. Outside politics, he remains a practising dentist and an active voice in Serbia’s cultural scene.
Photo: Braca
Photo: Pokret slobodnih građana (PSG)
ARMENIANS IN THE HEART OF VRNJAČKA BANJA
A century of shared life has turned a small refugee colony into an inseparable part of Vrnjačka Banja’s identity
When the first Armenian refugees arrived in the gentle valley of Vrnjačka Banja in the spring of 1922, few could have imagined that their small community would become a lasting part of this Serbian spa town’s identity.
After the horrors and displacement of the First World War and the 1915 genocide, about forty Armenians were given the chance to begin a new life in Serbia. With the support of King Alexander I Karađorđević, they were granted the right to lease land and create homes and trades that would sustain their families.
FROM EXILE TO BELONGING, THE ARMENIANS OF VRNJAČKA BANJA BUILT
A QUIET LEGACY OF RESILIENCE AND GRATITUDE
“We were welcomed as brothers, without suspicion or hesitation,” recalls one of the preserved memories from that time. From those homes, friendships grew, marriages were formed, and businesses thrived, blending naturally into the life of Vrnjačka Banja. Over time, the Armenians became renowned for
their skills as craftsmen, merchants, and hosts, bringing warmth and a distinctive culture to the town.
In 2022, exactly one century after the first Armenian colony arrived, the town was filled with gratitude and remembrance. At the Belimarković Cultural Castle, an exhibition showcased original photographs and documents from the 1920s. Black-and-white portraits of the first families, old passports, land lease contracts, and images of their descendants who still live in the spa today were displayed. The connection with Armenia was renewed — Ambassador Ashot Hovakimian and the President of the Municipality, Boban Đurović, joined Čedomir Artinović, a descendant of one of the original families, who presented the newly formed association “Vrnjački Jermeni”.
“This is a story of gratitude and resilience,” said one of the organisers. “Our grandparents arrived here with nothing but hope. And today, one hundred years later, we gather not only to remember but to continue contributing to this place.”
The memory of the Armenian genocide and the tragedy of 1915 remains an integral part of the community’s identity. Each year, Armenians in Vrnjačka Banja, together with their compatriots across Serbia, commemorate 24 April — the day of remembrance for the victims. But here, that remembrance carries a local tone: the story of finding a new homeland where people opened their hearts.
Today, the descendants of those first settlers are fewer in number, yet their bond with their roots remains strong. The association “Vrnjački Jermeni” preserves archives and photographs, brings families together, organises cultural events, and helps young members stay connected to their dual identity — both Serbian and Armenian. Their story is not just a footnote in local history; it is a reminder that solidarity can transform destinies.
For Vrnjačka Banja, these people are no strangers. They are neighbours who have built everyday life together for a century, weaving the spirit of enterprise and warmth into the spa’s character. Their presence endures quietly but firmly — a bridge between two cultures, born not of grand political gestures but of human acceptance and the courage to start anew.
Photo: Minoli / Shutterstock
Zamak Belimarkovic
by Ivana Dukčević
ARMENIA IN SHADES OF BRANDY AND VOLCANIC STONE
A Journey into Armenia’s Heart, Between Faith and Fire
During our journey through the South Caucasus, we reached Armenia, the southernmost of the three countries in the Caucasus region. At an elevation of 1,901 metres, we came upon the shores of Lake Sevan, the world’s second-largest highaltitude freshwater lake that is still navigable. Its name is believed to derive from the words “sev” and “vank” – “black” and “monastery” – after Sevanavank, the monastery founded on its shores in 874 by Armenian Princess Mariam. When it was built, the water level was higher, so the monastery stood on an island; today, it rises from an elongated peninsula on the lake’s western side.
Some 25 kilometres further south, we visited the village and cemetery of Noratus (or Noraduz) – Armenia’s most extensive and best-preserved medieval necropolis. Here, around eight hundred intricately carved tombstones stand, the oldest being khachkars (stone crosses) dating back to the ninth century.
ARMENIA BECAME THE FIRST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD TO ADOPT
CHRISTIANITY AS A STATE RELIGION
Text and photos: Ivana Dukčević
Long ago, Armenia was a land of restless volcanoes. Along the shores of Lake Sevan, we would find shards of obsidian – jet-black, glassy stones – and “moonstones” shimmering from pale white to soft green, once hurled from the craters of now-silent volcanoes. The memory of that fiery past lives on today in the quarrying of volcanic rock in countless hues, a building material that has been used for centuries in Armenia’s sacred and secular architecture.
YEREVAN’S VERY FABRIC IS VOLCANIC TUFF – A SOFT, WORKABLE STONE THAT BREATHES, KEEPS BUILDINGS TEMPERATE, AND NEVER NEEDS PAINTING
The best example is the country’s capital, whose architecture is unlike any other. Built atop extinct volcanoes and in the shadow of the legendary Mount Ararat, Yerevan’s very fabric is volcanic tuff – a soft, workable stone. I have seen tuff elsewhere, but in Armenia it takes on a special character: blocks cut in a spectrum of colours, from ochre yellow and deep orange to brick red, smoky black, soft grey – and, most famously, a muted dusty rose that has earned Yerevan the name “the pink city.” While most buildings are clad in a single tone, many combine several, creating the effect of a mosaic across their facades. This volcanic stone is not only beautiful but practical: it breathes, keeps buildings temperate, and never needs painting.
Armenia’s capital lies cradled in a basin, at an average altitude of 990 metres. Parts of the city spill down steep slopes, with a difference in elevation of more than five hundred metres. Yerevan is the twelfth and last of Armenia’s historic capitals and is home to just over a million people – nearly a third of the country’s entire population.
At its heart lies Republic Square, framed by the government buildings and the imposing National History Museum. In front of the museum is a grand musical fountain that, on summer evenings, draws crowds as its dancing water jets shift colours and sway in time with classical symphonies and rock anthems alike.
A short stroll away is a leafy park that ends at Vernissage, the city’s openair flea market, where silver jewellery, leather goods, woven fabrics, woodwork, and unique handcrafted souvenirs tempt every passer-by.
Further uphill, overlooking the city, stands the Cathedral of Saint Gregory
the Illuminator. Gregory lived in the third and fourth centuries, embraced Christianity, and brought the new faith to the Armenian people. Thanks to him, in the year 301, Armenia became the first country in the world to adopt Christianity as a state religion, founding the Armenian Apostolic Church and installing Gregory as its first bishop.
Yerevan delighted me with its abundance of charming cafés, excellent yet inexpensive restaurants serving superb local cuisine, and street kiosks offering freshly pressed juices, chilled coffee crowned with whipped cream and ice cream, and frappés in endless flavours – especially around Charles Aznavour Square. This lively square is also known for its theatre, a whimsical fountain adorned with zodiac signs, and a giant chessboard with life-sized pieces. On warm summer evenings, young and old alike gather to play this game, which originated in neighbouring Persia (or possibly India). Fittingly, Armenia is the first – and so far only – country in the world to have made chess a compulsory subject for all schoolchildren in the second, third, and fourth grades since 2011.
Not far from the city centre, we wandered into Tamanyan Park, dotted with striking modern sculptures, which leads to the foot of the Cascade – Yerevan’s grand terraced staircase. At its summit lies the capital’s most famous viewpoint. From autumn to spring, on clear days free of haze, the panorama stretches across much of central Yerevan to the majestic stratovolcano Mount Ararat, rising some 35 kilometres away across the border in Turkey.
West of Republic Square, along the same street that hosts Armenia’s only Persian Shiite mosque, dating back to the eighteenth century, we stumbled upon a shop with beautifully arranged displays of dried fruit. Beyond the familiar apricots, peaches, plums, quinces, and figs, we discovered wonderfully chewy dried pears, cloud-soft dried apples, sour cherries stuffed with hazelnuts, and – most surprising of all – irresistibly sweet dried melon.
No visit to Yerevan would be complete without a stop at the legendary Ararat Brandy Factory, home to what is arguably the world’s most famous brandy.
Although Ararat Brandy has been produced since 1887, the present building, which houses both the production facilities and the museum, was constructed in 1953, perched on a hill overlooking the heart of the capital. Ararat brandy is crafted from local white grapes grown in the vineyards of southern Armenia.
During the guided tour, we learned about the factory’s history and production process, watched how the brandy is made and stored, and admired the casks dedicated to visiting world-famous artists and politicians. Among the photographs on the walls, we spotted George Clooney, Peter Gabriel, John Malkovich, former Serbian president Tomislav Nikolić, Emir Kusturica, and, of course, Charles Aznavour – after whom one of the brandies is named. The tour concluded in a grand tasting hall, where we sampled Ararat brandy, featuring notes of apricot and coffee, paired with a walnut-topped piece of alva –a perfect harmony of aromas and flavours. Cheers! Or, as they say in Armenian, Kenac
On a high hill at Tsitsernakaberd, on the city’s quiet edge, we visited the Armenian Genocide Memorial and Museum. Built in 1967, the museum is strikingly modern and minimalist, featuring chronologically arranged black-and-white photographs, original documents, short films, and personal belongings, all dedicated to preserving the memory of the victims of the Armenian genocide in Ottoman Empire, which began in 1915.
Today, approximately three million people reside in Armenia, while nearly seven million Armenians comprise the diaspora worldwide. Outside of Russia and the United States, France remains home to the largest Armenian community –Charles Aznavour, born in Paris to Armenian refugee parents, being one of its most celebrated members.
In front of the museum, a park stretches where dozens of young fir trees have been planted by visiting heads of state. Beside one of them, a metal plaque reads: “From the President of the Republic of Serbia, Boris Tadić, 28.07.2009.”
ON WARM SUMMER
EVENINGS, YOUNG AND OLD ALIKE GATHER TO PLAY CHESS ON A GIANT BOARD IN CHARLES AZNAVOUR SQUARE
After visiting the Genocide Museum, we proceeded to one of Yerevan’s most important cultural institutions, the Matenadaran. Its name can be loosely translated as “the place where books are kept,” and it houses a priceless collection of medieval manuscripts and books, originally part of the Patriarchate’s library in Etchmiadzin and later taken under state protection. At the entrance, beneath the broad staircase, stands a statue of Mesrop Mashtots, the monk who, in 405 AD, created the Armenian alphabet with its original thirty-six letters (three more were added later). The Armenian script is strikingly decorative, evoking the beauty of Eastern calligraphy. Some characters appear visually similar to those of Cyrillic or Latin alphabets, but their pronunciation is entirely different. Interestingly, until the introduction of Arabic numerals, Armenian letters also served as a means of representing numbers. Like neighbouring Persian, the Armenian language belongs to the Eastern branch of the Indo-European family, though it developed independently.
Eight kilometres south of the city centre, we continued to the Erebuni Museum and the Mesopotamian fortress of the same name, dating back to the eighth century BCE. Built by the people of Urartu (a name derived from “Ararat”), the ancestors of today’s Armenians, the fortress stood watch over what was then the northern edge of ancient Mesopotamia. Cuneiform
Text and photos: Ivana
Dukčević
inscriptions suggest that King Argishti I ordered the construction of the fortress and its citadel atop the hill of Arin Berd. The idea to turn the site into an open-air museum is inspired, but extensive excavations are still underway. So far, archaeologists have uncovered everyday household objects, bronze and agate jewellery, glassware, and statues of deities – all of which are now displayed in the museum at the foot of the hill.
West of Yerevan, in the shadow of the legendary Mount Ararat, we climbed a vineyard-covered hill to reach Khor Virap Monastery – one of Armenia’s most revered historic sites. It is here that King Tiridates III, in the late third century, imprisoned Gregory the Illuminator in a deep dungeon. After thirteen long years, struck by Gregory’s unwavering faith and endurance, the king freed him in 301 and embraced Christianity as the faith of his people. Tiridates thus became the first officially baptised ruler in history, and Armenia the first Christian nation in the world.
A short distance away, we visited Etchmiadzin (today Vagharshapat), the seat of the Armenian Church, where we saw Gregory’s church vestments and other treasured relics. This vast religious complex includes a museum, monastic quarters, and the Mother Cathedral of Holy Etchmiadzin – the spiritual heart of the Armenian Apostolic Church. Together with several nearby medieval churches, the complex is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Not far from Etchmiadzin lie the ruins of the unique circular Zvartnots Cathedral, built in the seventh century. Its name translates as “Cathedral of the Heavenly Angels.” It was commissioned by the Catholicos of the Armenian Church at the time, when the patriarchal seat was relocated to this location.
Some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Armenia lie in the south, near the border with Iran, in the region of the picturesque Noravank Monastery and Armenia’s celebrated wine country. This corner of the country is defined by ochre-hued canyons and lush, green valleys threaded with streams. Along the way, we paused by orchards of pale-gold, succulent apricots – Armenia’s national fruit, cultivated here since antiquity. It was here, too, that we picked up a handful of what the Latins called prunus armeniacus –the “Armenian plum.”
In a seemingly barren gorge, we arrived at the village of Areni, home to Armenia’s most renowned
wineries, which produce wine with a protected geographical origin. At one of them, the owner personally guided us through the production process before we sat down to taste the wine, paired with fish from the nearby stream.
A few kilometres further south, we turned off onto a side road and, before entering the canyon, climbed a long flight of steps to the Areni cave system. It was here, in 2007, that archaeologists uncovered some of the oldest wine storage vessels ever found – large, rounded clay jars built into the cave walls. These discoveries are believed to date back more than 6,000 years, to the Bronze Age.
From the main road, we turned into the canyon and soon reached the clifftop plateau where the thirteenth-century Noravank Monastery rises. Perched dramatically above the gorge of the Amaghu River, the complex is also known as “Noravank on the Amaghu.” Its most famous building is the two-storey Church of the Holy Mother of God, whose façade features an unusual external staircase built into the front wall – a striking piece of medieval Armenian architecture. The church is also called Burtelashen, meaning “built by Burtel,” in honour of Prince Burtel Orbelian, its benefactor.
Our journey concluded in the Yerevan basin, where we visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Geghard Monastery. Founded by Saint Gregory the Illuminator, Geghard is one of Armenia’s oldest and most important monasteries – and also one of its most visited. Its name, Geghardavank, means “the Monastery of the Spear,” referring to the relic it housed for centuries: the spear said to have pierced Christ’s side.
Nearby lies the Garni Temple, which, although it resembles something transported straight from the Mediterranean world, was in fact built by the ancient Armenians in the 1st century AD. Considered the oldest surviving pagan temple of the Armenian kings, it was commissioned in AD 76 by King Tiridates I and dedicated to the sun god.
IN A SEEMINGLY BARREN GORGE, ARCHAEOLOGISTS UNCOVERED SOME OF THE OLDEST WINE STORAGE VESSELS EVER FOUND – OVER SIX THOUSAND YEARS OLD
The temple stands on a grassy promontory above the Garni Gorge. Below, along a winding road that follows the Azat River, the cliffs are lined with otherworldly stone formations – long, hexagonal basalt columns that appear to have been carefully placed by human hands. This natural wonder is poetically referred to as the “Symphony of Stones.”
A TASTE OF ARMENIA’S SOUL
From Ancient Recipes to Contemporary Creations in the Heart of Yerevan
Armenian cuisine is one of the world’s oldest culinary traditions, shaped by thousands of years of history, geography, and culture. It is a cuisine that tells stories — of mountains and valleys, vineyards and orchards, bustling markets, and the warm hospitality of families who have passed down recipes through generations.
At the heart of Armenian gastronomy is respect for simple, fresh, and seasonal ingredients. Vegetables, herbs, fruits, grains, and nuts take centre stage, often prepared in ways that enhance their natural flavours. Traditional dishes such as tolma (stuffed vine or cabbage leaves), harissa (a slow-cooked wheat and chicken porridge), and ghapama (pumpkin filled with rice and dried fruits) are not only delicious but also deeply symbolic of Armenian culture and celebrations.
Bread has a sacred place at the Armenian table. Lavash, the thin, soft flatbread recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage, is baked in clay ovens called tonirs and accompanies almost every meal. Sharing lavash is seen as a gesture of friendship and unity.
Armenia is also home to one of the world’s oldest winemaking traditions. Archaeological evidence indicates that wine production began here over 6,100 years ago. Today, the
country boasts more than 500 indigenous grape varieties, offering wine lovers a unique journey through its five distinct wine regions.
Whether enjoyed at a family gathering, a festive celebration, or in a modern restaurant, Armenian cuisine reflects a balance of authenticity and creativity. It is a living heritage — a taste of Armenia’s soul, where every dish carries the warmth of its people and the richness of its land.
ABOUT 782
782 is more than a restaurant — it is a celebration of Armenia’s timeless flavours in a contemporary way.
Located in the heart of Yerevan’s Cascade, the new Yerevan cuisine restaurant was created to honour the city’s foundation year, 782 BC, when the ancient fortress of Erebuni was established.
At 782, everything begins with local products — carefully selected from Armenian farmers, vineyards, and producers. This philosophy ensures that every dish is authentic and fresh. The menu reimagines Armenian classics with creative twists, such as grape leaves tempura, Garni Yarak lasagna, and qufta with pistachio and cheese sauce. Each dish is thoughtfully paired with an Armenian wine, highlighting the richness of the country’s indigenous grape varieties and five unique wine regions.
Among the most celebrated creations of the restarurant is the “Smoking Woman” dessert, inspired by the famous statue by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, located right in the Cascade where our restaurant stands. This dessert is
LAVASH, THE THIN, SOFT FLATBREAD RECOGNISED BY UNESCO, ACCOMPANIES ALMOST EVERY MEAL –
A GESTURE OF FRIENDSHIP AND UNITY
both a culinary masterpiece and a playful nod to Yerevan’s art scene, making it a must-try favourite for every guest.
The concept, 782, combines tradition and innovation: bringing the soul of Armenia to the table, while presenting it in a way that resonates with today’s world.
The creative force behind 782 is its chef, who not only honours Armenian culinary heritage but also introduces a new philosophy of dining. One of his unique approaches is the careful control of calories in each dish
Guests can enjoy a full Armenian journey — from appetisers, salads, and soups, to main courses and desserts — without ever feeling uncomfortably full.
This balance allows visitors to savour the depth of flavours and the variety of Armenia’s cuisine in one sitting, while keeping the dining experience light, elegant, and memorable.
The idea of 782 New Yerevan cuisine was born as a “piece of Yerevan,” reflecting the city’s vibrant spirit, its traditions, and its future.
Traditional Recipe GHAPAMA
Stuffed Pumpkin with Rice and Dried
Fruits
Ghapama is a traditional celebratory dish, often prepared during holidays and family gatherings. Its colourful filling and sweet aroma symbolise abundance and joy.
Ingredients:
• 1 medium pumpkin (cleaned, seeds removed)
• 2 cups rice
• ½ cup dried apricots, chopped
• ½ cup raisins
• ½ cup prunes, chopped
• ½ cup walnuts or almonds, chopped
• 2–3 tbsp honey
• 2 tbsp melted butter
• ½ tsp cinnamon
• Pinch of salt
Preparation:
1. Rinse rice and boil until halfcooked. Drain.
2. In a bowl, mix rice with dried fruits, nuts, honey, butter, cinnamon, and salt.
3. Fill the cleaned pumpkin with the rice mixture, leaving some space at the top.
4. Cover the opening with the pumpkin’s lid and bake in the oven at 180°C for about 1.5–2 hours, until the pumpkin is tender.
