Betteridge MAgazine Aspen

PATEK PHILIPPE’S NEW HEADQUARTERS

LATEST BREITLING COLLECTIONS

REDEFINING LUXURY p. 16

GOOD SPORTS p. 18

YOUR JEWELRY DREAMS COME TRUE

VHERNIER STYLE

BUILT BY INNOVATIVE, BETTERIDGE ICONIC p. 28 p. 38

A FEW OF OUR FAVORITES

2021 GIFT GUIDE p. 40

The Cinema Squad Charlize Theron Brad Pitt Adam Driver

#SQUADONAMISSION

T H I S

I S

Now & Forever I've been told over and over again that when you walk into one of our stores, you feel like you've gone back in time. Fine old mahogany casework — maybe that's part of it. However, underneath that, there is something else solid and lasting.

I can remember playing under the cases when I was little; now my son talks about how he remembers doing the same. This place is home.

A respect for history has helped shape the principles by which we run our business. I only want to sell products that will be cherished for a lifetime, perhaps even over the course of generations.

I love recommending the jewelry we make, particularly our engagement rings, because I know every step that has gone into an item's creation: I've seen the platinum melted, hammered out on an anvil and welded by one of our jewelers. It gives me peace of mind to know everything we make is as good as it possibly can be.

We expect the same level of quality from all our retail partners, from the smallest jewelry designer to the largest watch manufacturer. Utmost quality with true intrinsic value will withstand the vagaries of fashion trends and always be in style.

These are bedrock values on which Betteridge was founded over a hundred years ago, and they remain the values we live by today.

I look forward to welcoming you to one of our stores in the future.

Terry Betteridge Chief Executive Officer

8 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

BETTERIDGE

MAGAZINE

FEATURES

16

2021 TABLE

OF

CONTENTS

COLUMNS

15

A SMART INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY— A SWISS TIMEPIECE

12

THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul

Four noted watch experts weigh in on what to buy now.

Newman’s $17,752,500 Daytona and more.

REDEFINING LUXURY

Inside Patek Philippe's new headquarters.

18

34

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

Paul Morelli melds gold, diamonds and gemstones that seem to float on air.

GOOD SPORTS

Rugged and primed for action, the latest collections from Breitling are vintage-inspired, but with super-cool updates — and they’re not for men only.

36

WATCHSPEAK

Uncomplicating the world of complications.

22

LUXURY SUVS: OUR 2021 PREVIEW

Luxury SUVs are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet.

28

BUILT BY BETTERIDGE

Let our master craftsmen bring your jewelry dreams to life — or turn an old piece into a new dazzler.

32

PERFECTLY IN TIME

F.P.Journe, the master of high horology, does things at his own pace.

40

BETTERIDGE GIFT GUIDE

The Betteridge team’s personal picks for the best pieces to give the jewelry and watch lovers on your list.

37

BLACK & GOLD

A woman’s jewelry wardrobe really isn't complete without this bold and chic color combo.

38

INNOVATIVE & IRRESISTABLE

Vhernier’s distinctive style.

42

THE WOW FACTOR

The rare-gem designer Robert Procop knows what women want.

On our cover: this dazzling trio of sapphire and diamond rings was built in Betteridge's workshop in Greenwich, CT. Read more about our custom designs and in-house artisans on page 28.

A smart investment opportunity

Swiss Timepieces Four noted fine watch experts share their opinions on what to buy now RIGHT NOW, BUYING A NEW WATCH COULD BE ONE OF THE

1976, with the rounded octagonal bezel, brought a certain elegance to

smartest investments around. It’s a purchase that can be worn, enjoyed

the sport watch category that continues. “It is sought-after today,” Bou-

and even sold — eventually — at a nice profit. The prices paid at auction

tros contends. Another reason, besides its good looks: “It’s recogniza-

for vintage (ie, “pre-owned”) watches are breaking all records. Six figures,

ble. That’s key to its appeal.” And it’s the key to any status symbol: a

seven figures, even eight (as in $10 million and up) are not uncommon.

Paul Boutros

design so distinctive it can be instantly identified.

Another classic that could make a good investment, Boutros main-

Buying a new watch as a money-

tains, is “Audemars Piguet’s latest reference of their Royal Oak, 15202,

maker to sell later is becoming as

and their Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak model.” These updates of “origi-

smart an investment as snapping

nal watches from the 1970s remain highly relevant in terms of style and

up a Lamborghini Miura, a Birkin

the case shape.” The first Royal Oak shook up the industry with its

bag or a pair of Air Jordans.

unique, signature octagonal bevel anchored with eight hexagonal

“It’s a good time to buy a

screws, and the novel grid pattern on its dial. “Its masculine aesthetic

great watch,” says Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, for Phillips,

has stood the test of time; demand for these modern versions in bou-

arguably the global leader in watch auctions. “In times of uncertainty,

tiques proves that,” Boutros says. It’s a track

people look for safe havens for their money. Right now conditions are

record that bodes well for the watch’s

favorable for putting money into hard assets as a hedge.” And a new

maintaining if not increasing its value in

watch, just like gold, is one of the best hedges right now.

the future.

But not just any watch. Knowing which one to purchase now —

Boutros also thinks no one can go

one that might reap a huge reward if eventually sold — is a tricky busi-

wrong buying a stainless steel Rolex.

ness. Not only do Betteridge’s watch experts have the most informed

“They are relevant for today’s lifestyle, as

advice on the best new timepieces to buy right now, we also spoke to

more people are dressing casual, whether

the heads of the watch departments at the world’s top auction houses

on Zoom meetings or even at the office with

for their opinions. It Is their job to evaluate, accept and then sell watches

business casual,” he says. “ Rolex’s Subma-

that were once brand-new, and have, over time, become more valuable.

riner, GMT-Master II and Daytona are graceful

When buying a new timepiece, Boutros advises that “blue chip watches may be good investments” and suggests buyers “look for classic, timeless styles from proven brands — they have enduring

Rolex GMT-Master II

evolutions true to the originals that have been produced continually to today.” They have proven to hold their appeal, and their value.

Win Betteridge, a timepiece specialist at Betteridge in Green-

value.” That’s especially true if they have been given exciting new up-

wich, CT, is another big fan of Rolex sports watches. “Although I

to-the-minute twists.

would caution anyone against buying a watch strictly for investment

Case in point: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Its original design, from

purposes (the ultimate dividend from owning a fine timepiece is wearing

12 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

Patek Philippe Calatrava

14 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

The

5

most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction

The most expensive watch that ever changed hands at

collectors are those paid for watches at

auction was the one-off Patek Phillippe Grandmaster

regular auctions, and they’ve reached in-

Chime sold last year in Geneva for $31 million. The occa-

credible highs as well. The top prices

sion was the 2019 Only Watch auction, a charity event

ever paid for these timepieces should in-

run by Christies. Prices are always unusually high in the name of doing good. The prices that interest most

spire any enthusiast to buy a new one with the potential to sell later — and retire.

$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, Phillips, New York 2017. Arguably the most famous timepiece in the world.

Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, Christie's, Hong Kong 2019. One of only seven Ref. 2523 dual-crown world-time wristwatches believed to have been issued in pink gold — and only the fifth to be offered at auction.

The Unicorn: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265 Phillips, Geneva 2018. Called the Unicorn because of its rarity, it is the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.

$5,708,885

Patek Philippe18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, Christies, Geneva 2010.

Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.

$11,002,000

Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, Phillips, Geneva 2016. It is the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions.

15 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

The new Patek Philippe Manufacture in Geneva

Redefining Luxury Inside Patek Philippe's new headquarters PATEK PHILIPPE MAY BE A VENERABLE BRAND, ESTABLISHED in 1839, but the company's new Geneva headquarters couldn't be

the impression is that of a huge ocean liner.

Inside the building is divided into five main areas. Both the

more modern, bringing all the stages of fine watchmaking under

ground and first floor are designated for watch production. The

one 1.2 million-square-foot roof. With 10 floors (five above ground,

second floor houses the ateliers responsible for machining,

four below), walls and walls of glass windows (abundant daylight is

manual polishing, gemsetting and the assembly of cases,

a must) and white concrete passageways along the entire facade,

bracelets and other exterior parts. The restoration of antique

16 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

White concrete passageways along the entire facade give the impression of a huge ocean liner.

The limited edition Calatrava

timepieces also takes place here. The third floor is home to de-

with a fantastic panoramic view of the bucolic landscape and

partments such as research and development, haute hor-

nearby mountains.

logerie and prototyping and the fourth floor is where rare

To celebrate this move into their new headquarters, Patek

handcrafting skills, including manual engraving, enameling and

Philippe also introduced a limited edition Calatrava watch

guilloching, are performed. The fifth floor is crowned by a pent-

(1,000 units) — a seriously sporty model, and not unlike the

house restaurant for 880 guests as well as four VIP lounges, all

company's new digs, redefines luxury.

17 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Shown models from the Chronomat B01 42, Superocean Heritage 57 and Navitimer Automatic 35 collections.

18 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

A NEW Generation of

GOOD SPORTS Rugged and primed for action, the latest collections from Breitling are vintage-inspired, but with super-cool updates — and they’re not for men only.

IT'S NOT EASY TO KEEP COMING UP

their functionality. With gloves, you

with new plot twists in a 136-year-old

can easily adjust the bezel in high

story, but that's exactly what Breitling

seas or on a deep dive.

And then there's the sheer number

seems to be doing. The brand, famously known for its aviation time-

of choices, including dials in silver,

pieces and chronographs, has added

copper or blue with contrasting black

new Novelties to three key collections:

chronograph counters, or black with

Chronomat, Superocean Heritage and

contrasting silver chrono counters.

Navitimer. All channel vintage design

There is a British racing green dial

influences of their iconic namesakes, while going big on modern updates,

The Breitling Chronomat B01 in-house move-

The B01themovement mentChronomat is visible through display backison visible through a sapphire caseback. certain models.

with black counters in the Bentley edition as well as a stunning copper dial with black counters.

including new case sizes, new bracelets, new dial options — and, for the ladies, diamonds.

You can also have your pick of bands including a red

There’s clearly something for everyone.

gold bracelet and the reintroduced tight-rowed Rouleaux

The Chronomat BO1 42 — The ideal all-purpose sports watch for your every pursuit

bracelet. The Chronomat is powered by the in-house

The rugged, dependable Chronomat is one of Breitling's

(almost 600 feet).

most popular collections. Introduced in 1984, it became an instant hit and was known for its multipurpose, all-terrain

The Superocean Heritage ‘57 — Take it for a swim

(air, sea, land) functionality. What's new is the sleeker

Whether you're a fan of recreational diving or just want to

design with a 42 mm case (downsized from 44 mm),

wear a cool watch, the Superocean Heritage 57 is a winner

straighter lugs and flatter bezel. The signature rider tabs are

that has been turning heads with its laid-back surf-culture

more subtle, lying more flush to the bezel while retaining

inspiration for 63 years.

Breitling Caliber B01, has up to 70 hours of power reserve and is water-resistant up to an impressive 200 meters

19 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

In addition to its sturdy steel case,

out features to recommend it. There's a 70-hour power reserve;

ultra-legible dial and exceptional per-

it's a column-wheel-controlled vertical clutch chronograph, with a

formance, the new Superocean

patented system for auto-centering the reset-to-zero hammer.

Heritage ‘57 includes a rotating ceramic bezel; if you didn't know better, its high-gloss look could be mistaken for polished metal. Under the hood is the caliber 10. It's available in black and blue dial versions with your choice of a vintageSuperocean Heritage 57

inspired leather strap or an integrat-

ed Ocean Classic stainless steel bracelet. You may also choose

The Navitimer Automatic 35 — Just for women Why should men have all the fun wearing an icon? The new smaller Navitimer Automatic 35 Collection was created for women looking for a more refined and elegant version of the classic Navitimer.

First introduced in 1952 as a pilot’s chronograph (Ref.806), the Navitimer is one of the brand’s most popular models. Beyond the smaller size,

the two-tone red gold model with black dial.

Breitling went even further and made the 35 a bit thinner (9.92 mm) than the 38 mm version. But petite doesn't mean less powerful. Like most recent Navitimers, it runs on the same automatic Breitling Caliber 17 movement,

Navitimer Automatic 35

has a 38-hour power reserve and is COSC-certified. The watch is available in stainless steel with blue, copper or silver dial.

There is also a two-tone red gold and steel version that comes with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond set indices.

Superocean Heritage 57

Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 44 Limited Edition — Robust and timeless Another tribute to the iconic 1957 model, this Superocean Heritage, featuring a black-eye green dial, is designed for robust adventure. It’s limited to 500 pieces, powered by the in-house Breitling Caliber 01 and is available either with a black rubber strap or a stainless

Superocean Heritage B01 Chrono steel mesh bracelet. It has some stand20 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Luxury SUVS OUR 2021 PREVIEW

Bentley Bentayga Hybrid 22 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Luxury SUVs are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet

Lamborghini Urus THE SUV SCRAMBLED UP 5,000 FEET AND AROUND 164 CORNERS AVERAGING 66 MPH to the top of historic Pikes Peak in 10 minutes and 49 seconds. A world’s record for any vehicle in that climb.

And the SUV was a Bentley. A what?

Yes, the Bentley Bentayaga, one of the world’s most expensive SUVs with a starting price of $300,000, a top end of 190 mph on the highway and a head-turning 3.8 seconds in 0-60 with an optional 626-horsepower 12-cylinder engine Bentley is just one of the big-name, top-dollar luxury-car manufacturers turning out SUVs that 23 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

SUVs are outselling sedans two to one, with all the luxury add-ons and safety features of sedans plus more cargo space and better views. with new technology can jam up and down hills, win highway drag

bounce a bit while drinking a glass of Champagne from the $47,000

races or coddle you as you drive around town in extreme luxury and

optional cooler, while sitting in specially padded $27,000 “sanctuary

with the ultimate in safety add-ons.

seats” in the back.

Luxury SUVs offer an extraordinary driving experience combined with more cargo space and better views. That’s why SUVs are out-

The wildest and crazy-cool looking SUV is the $222,004, 664 hp Lamborghini Urus in outrageous orange paint it calls Arancio Borealis

selling sedans two to one.

Seats that massage, heat and ventilate with 22-way power set-

Lamborghini Urus

tings (an extra $11,855 on the Bentley) along with 20-speaker sound

ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

systems, 10.2-inch touch-screen infotainment displays, self-parking,

2.7-liter, turbocharged V-8

654 hp

170 MPH

Bluetooth, GPS navigation and a multitude of safety features like pe-

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

3.8 sec

$222,004

destrian detectors that will slam on the brakes if you don’t — are all available with the top-end models. Some have hybrid assistance. All that, in addition to the extra bulk, typically means mileage of between

Bentley Bentayga Hybrid ENGINE:

POWER:

4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8

641 hp

TOP SPEED:

190 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

3.2 sec

$300,000

with a matching interior. It still looks like a Lambo racing sedan, very sleek and mean, but it can tow 7,000 pounds and it can equal Bentley’s 190 mph top end. Plus it has an adjustable suspension and can raise or lower itself by six inches to accommodate terrain.

Another luxurious and very popular all-terrain SUV is the Mercedes AMG G63, starting at $259,000. It has three different locking differentials and a low-range gear, which means it can tackle any 12 and 20 per gallon, so prepare to open your wallet at the gas tank.

And if the Bentley Bentayaga doesn’t suit you, how about a Rolls Royce Black Badge Cullinan? It’s named for the largest diamond (3,107.6 carats) ever discovered, found in 1906 in South Africa, now

steep grade very, very slowly, or turn that off and zip from zero to 60 in under five seconds while all five of you are sitting in contoured Nappa leather seats and enjoying a massage.

And opt for the roof with obsidian black metallic paint for $1,100

safely locked up in the Tower of London and worth about $2 billion.

extra, and a matching obsidian black ring around the spare-tire

The Rolls has a bare-bones starting price of $382,000.

housing on the back for an extra $1,000, and a carbon fiber engine

It’s not as fast as the Bentley with a top end of only 155, but with a plusher ride and almost equal off-road capability if you’re willing to

cover for $1,500. When you lift the hood, this Mercedes should look serious.

24 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

machine, a PlayStation and the most luxurious seating imaginable.

Mercedes AMG G63

But it is so heavy — over nineteen feet long and eight feet wide — the

ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8

550 hp

150 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

4.8 sec

$259,000

top end is a meager 87 miles an hour.

If you’re not worried about getting attacked by an infantry platoon, you can always settle for offerings by Maserati, Ford, Porsche, BMWX7 and just about every other manufacturer. But most do not have much standard off-road capability and are typically used around town or for long-distance travel. For example, the $100,000+BMWX7 needs a $1,650 optional off-road package with skid plates and

Karlman King TOP SPEED:

ENGINE:

POWER:

6.8-liter, twinturbocharged V-10

360 Hp

87 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

N/A

$1.9 million

There are many other SUVs to choose from, far less expensive than the ultra-luxurious and super-fast, among them the all-American Jeep, nastier-looking than ever in the $43,895 Gladiator Rubicon model, which is bigger than the Wrangler you’re used to seeing. It comes with extra storage capacity and an optional three-piece $2,295 body-paint-coordinated hard top. An unusual feature is the $595 forward-facing camera so on the 8.4-inch touch screen, you can see objects on the trail or forest floor as close as two feet in front of you and provide a view of distance as well.

And how about going camping with your SUV? Hit the trail in a $72,895 Ford King Ranch with an optional $369 9-foot by 9-foot

push-button driving modes labeled sand, gravel, rocks and snow.

Sportz Tent by Napier that attaches to the cargo rear and sleeps four

Now that is entitled luxury.

to six people. It has a waterproof floor, lantern holder, two entrance

And here’s an unexpected entry.

doors, storm flaps and mesh windows. And the SUV seats eight,

Ferrari. Yes, the renowned racecar and hypersport manufacturer

with power folding heated rear seats.

will be coming out with an SUV, the Purosangue, in 2022. Specifica-

Meanwhile, if you want to buy the most expensive SUV ever

tions have not been announced, but the word is it’s likely to have a

made, the $1.9 million Karlmann King, designed in China and assem-

turbocharged V-8 with hybrid assistance and to pump out around

bled almost completely by hand in Italy can be ordered from the

650 horsepower.

company, but only about 10 have been made so far. It’s a beast at

Starting price is estimated at $350,000.

10,580 pounds, has optional bulletproofing, a refrigerator, a coffee

Get in line.

25 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Combining the unexpected with the respected. Traditional techniques, gold and gemstones meet vintage bakelite and other remarkable materials.

Built by

BETTERIDGE Let us bring your jewelry dreams to life Betteridge is renowned for offering the best designs by the most fabled jewelers. It’s an open secret, however, that many of the brand's most desired pieces are its own, in-house creations. We've been making custom jewelry, using local artisans and craftsmen ever since the company was founded in the early twentieth century.

In addition to our own designs, our in-house jewelry-making artisans can help bring to life any vision or idea you would like to create. From unique and utterly extraordinary engagement rings to magnificent gemstone necklaces and earrings, nothing is too complex or unusual for our workshops. We also specialize in reinvention projects, including resetting gemstones into different settings or reconfiguring an existing piece of jewelry to create something entirely new. Here and on the next two pages, let us take you through some of our favorite pieces.

28 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Engagement “We like to build rings to survive the demands of a most marvelous marriage which we think is a romantic notion.�

Terry Betteridge

29 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Clusters “The brilliance you see when individual diamonds interact with one another can be far more beautiful than a single stone.�

Win Betteridge

30 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Raymond C. Yard Best known for taking Art Deco jewelry designs to new and brilliant heights, Raymond C. Yardpieces are still made and sold exclusively through Betteridge.

31 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Perfectly inTime F.P.Journe, the master of high horology, does things at his own pace ANY WATCH COLLECTOR FASCINATED BY TOURBILLONS NEEDS

even owns its own dial- and case-making factories, further control-

an F.P.Journe in his or her collection. While tourbillons are produced

ling and integrating the process from conception to production.

today by dozens of watch companies, back in 1977, when a 20-yearold Geneva watchmaker, François-Paul Journe, set out to build his

It's a slow and exacting craft, even by watchmaking standards, producing fewer than 900 mechanical timepieces per year. For

first timepiece — a tourbillon pocket watch

watch enthusiasts, the relationship between

with a spring detent escapement — few tour-

watch and maker is a personal art form that

billons had been made in the 20th century. It

adds an extra shot of prestige. Aim your eye

took him six years to complete the watch —

under the logo of each watch and you'll find

not to sell or to show, but just to prove that he

the words Invenit et Fecit, Latin for "invented

could do it.

and made" — an engraved testament to the

In 1991, Journe took on another horologi-

company's all-under-one-roof watchmaking

cal challenge: his first wristwatch — a tourbil-

standards.

lon, naturally, this time fitted with a constant

Every day, Journe himself is at his

force mechanism, the remontoir d' égalité.

bench, creating the next F.P.Journe high-

Dating to the 18th century, the remontoir con-

horology complication — at his own pace.

trols the power delivery from the mainspring

Even though the process is time-consum-

to the escapement once per second, thus

ing, he focuses on innovation. Twenty-six

avoiding the inefficiencies of a wound spring.

distinct calibers have been released since

The watch that resulted combined this mech-

the company's founding. Of these, seven

anism with an exposed tourbillon at 9 o'clock

have won awards at the Grand Prix Hor-

and an exposed baseplate and time display

logerie de Genève (GPHG), including three

at 3 o'clock to set the design standard that

The new 2020 Chronomètre à Résonance: the only wristwatch in the world featuring acoustic resonance.

F.P.Journe continues to use today.

Golden Hands — the greatest number of any watchmaker.

For decades, Journe, who remains the designer, master watch-

In 2004, the company elevated the Octa and Souveraine collec-

maker and president of his eponymous brand, has been creating in-

tions by making the movements entirely in 18K rose gold. And in

novative timepieces that marry traditional craftsmanship with

2012 it introduced the lineSport watch, which features aluminum

unmatched technical skills. Each watch is completed entirely by

movements — an industry exclusive.

one watchmaker, from assembly through testing. And many tasks are performed manually, not on an assembly line. The company

To be the proud owner of one of Journe's masterpieces, get in line. But the wait will be well worth it.

32 24 BBEETTTTEERRI IDDGGEE MMAAGGAAZZI INNEE

Opposite: élégante 48mm, élégante 40mm

18K gold movement of the Chronomètre Optimum featuring the patented HighPerformance Bi-axial Escapement.

The élégante by F.P.Journe: The concept of this electro-mechanical watch features a motion detector (visible on the dial at 4:30). When the watch is motionless for more than 35 minutes it goes on sleep mode. When the élégante is moved again it resets itself to the correct time taking the shortest path (either clock- or counter-clockwise).

33 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Designer

SPOTLIGH T Melding gold, diamonds and gemstones that seem to float on air HIS STUDIO, IN THE HEART OF PHILADELPHIA, IS AS CLOSE TO a fine Old World jewelry house as a contemporary American designer can get. Hooked by the call of diamonds and gemstones from the time he first played with the treasures in his mother's jewelry box, Paul Morelli grew up in the arts world. His father was a prominent theater and opera costume dePaul Morelli

signer. After college, he followed in

his father's footsteps, but instead of fabric his preferred media were gold, diamonds and gemstones. He would take his creations to crafts fairs, where many of today's most famous designers got their start. Today, he works from his father's old studio, where he produces all of his jewelry on site. It's a family operation. Like all artists, his is an ever-evolving body of work. "I love anything unusual. I am intrigued by things I have never seen before," he told The Philadelphia Inquirer. Still, one hallmark of a Morelli piece is its profound attention to detail and delicacy. He is a master of working with thin strands of white and yellow gold wire and stationing the diamonds strategically as if they were floating on air; a design feat that would make any European master envious.

34 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Understanding

Watch Speak

The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Patek Philippe Collection:

GUILLOCHÉ The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial.

Ref # 5230R-012

GRAND COMPLICATION Grand complications include timepieces with the most complicated functions including minute repeaters, split-second chronographs and perpetual calendars. Ref # 5270J-001 (shown at right) also includes moon phases, leap year and day/night indication.

MOONPHASE In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold-colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window.

Ref # 5146G-010

POWER RESERVE

Ref # 5960/01G-001 (detail)

The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was just a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.

CHRONOGRAPH A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return-to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it.

Ref # 7150/250R-001

PERPETUAL CALENDAR A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, and year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.

36 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

Ref # 5327G-001

Black & Gold A woman's jewelry wardrobe really isn't complete without this bold and chic color combo.

Never have two colors looked so good together.

Any of these pieces will add that extra element of shine that truly makes an outfit stand out.

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1. Vhernier 18K pink gold and titanium Calla ring 2. DAVIDOR 18K yellow gold, diamond and caviar lacquer L’arc band 3. Diamond and enamel ladybug pin in 18K yellow gold from our estate collection 4. Vhernier ebony and 18K rose gold Pirouette link necklace 5. Vhernier ebony and 18K gold Pop necklace 6. David Webb 18K yellow gold, diamond and black enamel Studlette bangle 7. David Webb 18K yellow gold, diamond and black enamel knot earclips from our estate collection 8. De Grisogono 18K yellow gold and hematite swirl pendant from our estate collection

Vhernier's distinctive style Shown at right: The Calla flexible-link bracelet features the house's iconic design of conicalshaped elements in polished 18K rose gold and brushed titanium with round brilliantcut diamonds.

INNOVATIVE & IRRESISTIBLE OVER THE LAST THREE AND A HALF DECADES, IT HAS BEEN THE SECRET JEWELRY source for well-dressed women around the world. Just take a peek into the jewelry wardrobes of Celine Dion, Kerry Washington and Carrie Underwood. To own a sleek and sculptural Vhernier, from any of its signature collections, is like possessing a mesmerizing piece of art. Each sumptuous shape is hand-crafted in Valenza, Italy, known for its centuries-long goldsmithing traditions.

The unique Vhernier style began life in 1984, when Angela Camurati and her two business partners knew they wanted to make jewelry the likes of which no one had seen before. The first designs were the Abraccio, Pirouette and Tourbillon rings, one of which Camurati still wears. Although the company was purchased in 2001 by Carlo Traglio, who serves as president, Camurati remains as production director, still very much at the heart of the design team — and still innovating.

Vhernier is recognized for a number of techniques, including the company's signature gold shapes, which achieve their distinct color through an innovative rhodium-plating technique. Vhernier was also one of the first luxShown above: The Tourbillon ring, one of the company's first designs, has been reimagined in rose gold and matte titanium.

The Trottola ring is set in black titanium with "eyeliner pavé" diamonds.

ury jewelry houses to use titanium's unique oxidizing property to stunning effect.

And its latest masterpiece of craftsmanship reimagines the pavé diamond setting by nestling large and small stones together in a seemingly random pattern for a breathtaking effect.

It's no wonder that Vhernier has a noteworthy fashion following. It's in a class all its own.

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Rolex Submariner “Rolex makes the most durable and reliable watches on the planet. It’s no wonder that Chuck Yeager wore a Rolex when he broke the sound barrier in the 1940s. Or that Sir Edmund Hillary wore one while crossing Antarctica in the 1950s. Or that James Cameron wore a Rolex Deepsea on his recent, record-breaking dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

Rolex watches have been to the bottom of the ocean and to the top of Everest. Despite all their accomplishments, Rolex is never satisfied. Their lab does everything to improve these watches to make each year better than the last.”

Gift GUIDE

- Terry Betteridge

Looking for something shiny and new for all those special someones on your list? We're here to help with ideas for perfect presents you can pick up all in one place. Or, because you've been so extra good this year, why not be good to yourself with a dazzling new addition to your jewelry box? We can help with that too!

Diamond Eternity Rings

Multi-color Sapphire Bracelet “One-of-a-kind estate jewelry so often combines great artistry, natural and rare gemstones, and sometimes an interesting history too. This bracelet is the perfect example. Set with 242 carats of natural fancy colored sapphires, it was created by a Belgian prince who designed and manufactured jewelry in Switzerland and Austria. Originally purchased in Europe and discovered in an estate sale in the U.S. decades later, it is an absolutely fabulous rainbow of natural sapphires in every color imaginable — with a colorful provenance to match.”

- Inez Fogel Heery

Betteridge Astra Collection “My gift idea from Betteridge is our very own diamond cluster earrings from the Astra collection which I wear proudly everyday. So stunning and unique, it’s a beautiful classic piece. Available in five sizes, the collection also includes a pendant and a station necklace.”

- Lauren Yoon

“The eternity band is a continuous row of identically cut gemstones that symbolize never ending love, perfect for that special day and all the celebrations along the way. It can be the perfect wedding or anniversary ring. Or have some fun and stack a few on your right hand and create your own versatile custom look.

Choose different shape diamonds or add a splash of color; many are available with sapphires, rubies or emeralds. For a very special — and simply stunning — right-hand ring for any occasion I recommend an eternity band with larger diamonds, which takes on a much different look. You can really see so many wonderful details — the outline of each diamond matching perfectly down the line, the color of each stone seamlessly flowing into the next, individual facets large enough to see performing their magical light show. Beyond round, there are many diamond shapes including oval-, radiant-, asscher- and emerald-cuts, each with a different personality. Diamond sizes in our rings range from .50 ct to 2.0 carats and all are wonderful quality stones. We also offer a special few rings with all D-color (the highest diamond grade) stones. These rings are simple elegance at its finest! No matter what size stones you choose, eternity rings are exceptionally romantic, fashionable and wearable — always the perfect way to show your love.”

- John Velky

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “The Lange 1 Time Zone is the perfect timepiece for modern globetrotters who work and communicate with partners around the world. With a simple touch of a button, the city ring surrounding the dial jumps from west to east by one time zone advancing the time from London to Hong Kong and back home again. A collector's favorite for over fifteen years, the Lange Time Zone was just re-introduced with a newly developed movement and dial."

- Win Betteridge 40 32 M A G A Z I N E BETTERIDGE BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

DAVIDOR L’Arc de DAVIDOR Bracelet & Bead Pendant “What What I love about DAVIDOR is the ability

Tiffany & Co. Late-19th Century Fleur-de-Lis Pendant Brooch “Sometimes you have a connection with a piece of jewelry that is beyond just the aesthetic. This particular piece does that for me. Those of you

to wear their L’Arc de DAVIDOR collection from

who know me may recall my early days in the business was as a diamond buyer for Tiffany & Co. This piece was crafted by Tiffany circa 1890. The diamonds are all old-mine-style cut (over 4 cts),

day to night, dressed up or dressed down. The pieces are exceptionally crafted in 18K gold

stones. It is a fleur-de-lis-style, and I am of French descent. The piece is also versatile. It was made with a removable bail to wear as a pendant or a removable pin frame to wear as a brooch. The final connection is

with lacquered ceramic and diamonds, mixing fine jewelry design with playful colors. I never take off my L’Arc de DAVIDOR bead pendant in 18K white gold with hortensia-colored lacquered ceramic and 'Palais' diamonds.”

the provenance. This was owned by an old Greenwich family, and the first friend I ever made here in town was their daughter! I remember many hours chatting at their beautiful waterfront home. All in all, this does it

- Denise Calvin

for me.”

- Randy Lapointe Silvia Furmanovich Butterfly Clutch “To me this Butterfly clutch by Silvia Furmanovich is the best of all worlds: the embodiment of personal adornment, personal use and beautiful art all in one amazing piece. I’d never put it away, but set it out for all to see and admire as the “Objet d’Art” it is! For that matter, that is what I would do with any of her handbags. They’re all exquisite hand-size sculptures.”

- Vanessa Henry Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Panerai Submersible Carbotech™ – 47mm “Nothing brings out the inner Navy SEAL like the proper timepiece. Engineered for just such an occupation, Panerai infuses their Italian military DNA into each Submersible timepiece. Highly legible (even in the dark), water-resistant and tough as nails, Panerai will bring you that much closer to a successful mission, even if it’s only a grocery run.”

- Rob Shay

“A fine watch is an extension of your personality, and Patek's new Twenty-4 is intended for strong, active women. As comfortable and reliable as watches come, it blends femininity and elegance — the perfect companion to take you from the office to formal events. Patek's steel Twenty-4 manchette quartz watch comes in two variations: always stylish slate gray and my personal favorite, blue sunburst."

- Natalie Betteridge Round Brilliant Diamond Studs “I have friends and customers who wear our diamond stud earrings like a uniform, seven days a week. Whether you’re gifting a loved one with that first special pair or ‘trading-up’ to a larger size, there’s no better way to make someone feel special than with diamonds. Since all pairs are selected by our diamond experts and then handcrafted in platinum, you are assured of the ultimate in beauty and value. If she does not have a great pair of diamond studs, it’s an easy home run.”

- Warren Lagerloef Norman Silverman Marquise & Pear Diamond Ring “Despite my love of all things colorful and quirky, this diamond band won me over immediately. Three rows of marquise and pear-shaped diamonds are set almost invisibly together along the visible portion of the band, giving the ring a massive amount of sparkle and a very punchy presence. Crafted with a very low profile, making it both comfortable and wearable, this ring is truly a winner. If the thought of a classic eternity band bores you to tears, or you just like your diamonds with a little more flair than the average woman, this ring should be at the top of your wish list.”

- Brooke Betteridge 41 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE

WOW Factor

The

The rare-gem designer Robert Procop knows what women want Betteridge: Do you have favorite stones you like working with?

CAPTIVATED BY DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES FROM AN EARLY age, Robert Procop has been finding joy in seeking out rare rough

RP: I favor natural, untreated gemstones, rare in their unique color stones and turning them into one-of-a-kind works of art ever since. His and fine quality. From a natural blue sapphire that changes its color to clients, whose names he never reveals, include some of the bestpurple under a different light to an emerald that will look brighter at known and most powerful names in politics, industry and Hollywood. night, I remain in awe of the phenomenon that has to occur in nature Let's just say that when Angelina to produce these amazing high-quality gems. Jewels of this quality will Jolie, Brooke Shields and Anne Hathalso appreciate more than others over time. They are timeless and will away want something really special, be chic for centuries. they turn to Procop. Most likely be-

Robert Prokop

cause he favors large, natural stones

Betteridge: You were a successful gemstone trader in your teens.

with head-turning colors achieved

Next you became a world-renowned designer, and then you were the

without heat treatment. One of his

C.E.O. of the famed British jewelry house Asprey & Garrard. How

creations for Jolie, the Jolie Citrine

have these different experiences had an impact on your designs?

Necklace, featuring an eye-popping 177.11-carat pear-shaped citrine

RP: From a young age, I've been blessed with many amazing experi-

gemstone, is even in the permanent collection of the Smithsonian

ences in my career, and each one has had an impact on developing my

Institution. Closer to home, Procop's masterpieces, like those

style and taste. As a young boy, I worked in my father's engineering work-

shown here, can be found at Betteridge. Recently, we spoke with

shop learning how to use a microscope and fine tools. When I started

the man behind the glamour and dazzle and found a refreshingly

trading jewelry in my teens, I began using these skills to create unique set-

humble — and exacting — artist.

tings for the gems I was trading. I approached each setting with technical precision to find the best angles, highlights and vibrant colors of every

Betteridge: You've designed jewelry for some of the most beauti-

stone. At the time, I didn't consider myself a designer, but others did. And ful and powerful women in the world. How do you know what in serving Her Majesty the Queen, I was influenced by the timeless nature women want? of her choice of jewelry. It's easy to make a fashion statement, but my quest is to make each jewel timeless and stylish.

Robert Procop: I'm still learning what women want, just like every man. My goal is to make jewelry worthy of the woman who wears it.

Betteridge: That's quite a résumé! What's next for Robert Procop?

Of course I'm inspired by a gemstone's unique personality, the individual way it catches the light and the way it displays its colors — but the

RP: I've been working on our new collection — the Masterpiece collection,

ultimate design influence comes from the glamorous lifestyles of the

which combines the artistry of design with the extraordinary skills of our

women who are destined to wear these pieces. Women enjoy wearing

team of multitalented master craftsmen. This collection reflects our contin-

their jewels, and I want them to have that wow factor every time they

uing effort to make every piece unique and to create jewels that a collector

put them on.

will treasure and consider true masterpieces.

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