SLEEVES
One Seam Sleeve
Pin seams together, pins at right angles to seam,
and perforations and notches meeting.
Gather or dart the fulness between the notches to
give freedom at the elbow; also gather or dart the
fulness at top of sleeve according to the directions
on pattern.
Stitch; press seams on sleeve board or small seam
board; pink or overcast edges. Finishes for hand
are on page 60.
Two Seam Sleeve
Pin and baste front seams first; then fold over
upper part of sleeve at the bottom, pinning from top
of sleeve to upper notch and from bottom of sleeve
to lower notch; gather or dart the fulness at the
elbow according to directions in pattern. Stitch both
seams; press on sleeve board or small seam board:
pink or overcast seams.
Gather, dart, or pleat the fulness at top of sleeve
between notches; stitch seams, leaving back seam
open 3 inches from hand; press seams on sleeve
board, or small seam board; and pleats or darts on
tailor cushion.
Kimono Sleeve
When a kimono is closely fitted, a gusset is often
placed in the sleeve for freedom and to protect the
sleeve from tearing out under arm.
Cut a slash (at right angles to the seam) about
2y2 or 3 inches in length (about at the top of the
under arm.) Insert a square of material in the
opening thus made; baste square in place, tapering
seam at corners; overcast closely or cut a second
gusset, and use it as a facing; sew to place; press.
58
BUTTERICK DRESSMAKING BOOK