AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
How
Grade a Sack Coat from a
to
Tlie principle of grading sack coats
double breasted.
The
idea
is
is
the
same
in
all
cases,
Single Pattern
whether the coat be single or
to distribute the increase in the larger patterns or the decrease in
way that the backpart and front part will each receive their (meaning the breast measurements) are increased or decreased by an inch for each size, which leaves the pattern to be increased or decreased J4 inch, and is distributed in the following manner J4 'ich at the front edge and ^ inch at the side seam, which makes the lA inch double or i inch. The % inch at the side seam is divided in halves, which the smaller patterns in such a
respective share.
The
sizes
:
gives y&
This
forepart and the other ]/Âť inch to the side of the backpart. added or deducted from the width of the back, thereby increasing
inch to the side of the
latter
]/&
inch
is
also
or decreasing the shoulder width.
The scye depth is increased or decreased ]/(, inch for every size. If all men were of the same height and the increase or decrease were in the breast and waist measures only, the scye depth would increase or decrease ]/% inch for every size, but as the majority of men range in height from 5 feet 5 inches to 5 feet 9 inches, we must cut patterns for the majority, or as men are so beginning with a 38 breast coat for a man of normal height, and decreasing yi inch down to 33, the 33 pattern will give a proportionate measurement for a man 5 feet 5 inches in height, and increasing ^ inch up to 44 will make the 44 scye depth proportionate for a man ;
3
feet
9 inches
in height,
thereby striking the average.