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Inlernalional Copyiight,
1917
by the
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY
All Righli Reserved
Reproduction
Interdite
VervieKaelligung UnlersagI
6
Ibi/
The American Paiiern
Grader Jl Complete,
Work
Practical, UptoT)ate
on the Qrading of Patterns for
MEN'S
GARMENTS
The Use of ^lock Patterns Alterations
and
How
to ^TUCake
Them By
SAMUEL TiEGAL li
AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY PUBLISHERS
New
York, Chicago, London, Paris, Berlin, Vienna
5^0
<^^K
Introduction
DRAPER
his
in
ization" says :
" Intellectual " Individual
Nowhere
for social progress."
be found so dividual
Advancement advancement
fully realized as in these
advancement
" Excebior "
is
marked
is
is
is
the truth of this to
in
every
avenue of
inscribed on the banner of every
and
Civil
model
United Stales, where
woman, bome onward and forward through the crush, through the whirlpools
of
the
fast
in
life.
man and rush
and
flowing streams of
life's
kaleidoscopic changes, ever reaching higher and higher and
becoming more and more and ticular
sphere and
in their
own
still
more
perfect in their par
individual calling.
For twentyfive years the author has devoted
his time to
the careful study of every subject applicable to the publication of this
work, and has arranged
amyone
this
of average intelligence
volume
in
such a manner that
can master
this
method with
the employment of proper care and necessary diligence.
The
student will find the system of
pounded simple
and
entirely free
from
Grading herein excomplication.
All
which might have a tendency
to mislead the
been eliminated so
drawn and applied may be
easily
that every line
student, has
grasped and perfectly understood.
ÂŠr.l.A4ri5789 M.AR
6 1917
V 'i^i>^1i)
Preface IN 1
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER,
publishing the is
it
to advocate cutting
by proportion
he considers the knowledge
who
way
not the purpose of the author in any
of
indispensable to him
art
this
particularly
the fact that
in spite of
proclaims himself a competent cutler and wishes to be
considered so by his fellow workers. It
is
and always
who
words, the cutter
and
vidual
is
where
where ing
engaged
is
this
in
is
to
In other
possible.
has the time to devote to each indi
remunerated adequately
such services should
for
For the
never cut but by special measure.
who
and best method
will be, the wisest
adopt drafting to measure
cutter,
however,
wholesale tailoring work or such
work
prices are of a nature necessitating quick results, draft
by
proportion, popularly
Patterns,"
becomes a
as "
known
The Use
of
Block
necessity.
In order to thoroughly master the art of using block patterns,
it
former page,
it
pattern
becomes necessary is
the result of the
will
be found
which
is
first
that the
how
to learn
to
grade, as the
In the lessons following this
latter.
grade
utilized for all sizes
is
started from a single
and when once made,
is
the basis for (he making of block patterns.
author has aimed to put the art of
In this volume, the
using block patterns as plainly as possible to the student, it is
his firm belief that
anyone
who
and
conversant with cutting
is
can easily follow the lessons given herein. In order to facilitate the
pelled
course
These
to of
employ
instructions
alterations
have
work
method
this
in all
of the
man who
of cutting, a
the making of alterations
been
practically tested
result of twentyfive years of actual practice
period not the least time necessities
daily
was given
and requirements
is
added.
and are the
during
which
lo the careful study of the
of altering garments
under various conditions.
com
is
most complete
encountered
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS F
OR
BOYS AND YOUTHS COATS AGE
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS FROM NORMALS TO STOUTS COAT
TABLE
OF
PKOPORTIONS FOR SHOKT MEASURES BY HEIGHT AND BREASTS
Breast
32 33 3^ 35
Might
16
5^
/6
M. M_
f6
/6
/6
S% 8%
W
^/
J6
/6
J6
9'/s
9'4
9%
39
^Z ^3
^^
^J
^6
/6 16_
W
^6
W
9'^
9'/^
9%
/ff^A
/2% /2% 72% 73 13h. /6% ms_ 17% 17% 18h mz m/8
T&h.
76^ /m.
//^
/2
ms
^7 V8
Breast
/^ /6 /O ms /^^
WaiitUnqtii
Scye
ms 13% ma /^ /m 79'/8
strap
/9% /9% 20 20&
W% 76'A 76'/^ 76A. 76^ 9% m. /o lOh 10^ 19%
mi_ /6k 76^ 7m. 7&7^
(hnshoi/ldtt
Waistlayth
9'A 9% 9^2 978 ycye Strap /2h 12% 12?^ 13% 131^ 133k. 1¥ 79'/2 /9% 20f, ZO% (heahoulder J^iM^ 76k. /692 76U JZ^7722j7Jt 78 18% 78% 79 J6k /6f2 Ml72 m2j6'^ 76'^ lOh 7092 76k 769s 769^769^ 7699i 7/79z Wmtfenyfh 8% 8% 8^s 9'/2 9^/s 9fs 9'A 10 im. IIM. ia% Scye /P/8 17^8 im. 121^ i2%m8 13 13'A1392 13% 73^/8 12h irM/n Strap (3%
83k
I
ILAU'/^
56
38
m 9 Ws m /a/ii ms JMlMA mt M^ m m Mt m /7%im m¥ 892
//93
55
36 37
ms
/2'8
7/'/2
9
ms /6fi
iM
9^
U
ms
mt
9%\m
m. lA
m^Mk
m.
77 17bJ7'H_ 777s 789s 789ii 78^/^ 7998 19% 79^i 20 ZOA 2092 (hershoulder M^rn^ /m 763a 76^A 70% 76% 76% 763a 703a io% 10% 70% 70% 703A 76% b%\s^/f 3% 9h 9f7 91z 9% 9^/¥ 9h 70 lOls lOk mi 20^ 10' Scyt 57 //9^ //92 ms im 12f8 12^ 129^ 72% 73 13^8 73% 73^^. 73% 1^7 179, 77% Strap 76 m^ 16h 76% 779s 779i 77^'^ 78 789j, ms B2M919 79^ 193t 209s 203/, 20ft OvenJiou/der /7 /7 /7 /7 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77^ 77 77 yaistUnifflr i5U16'/s
/63a,
58
Ml ms
9%
mi
i& 72 mt 77
//%
im. m\
59
WaJstUtifftb
9'A
9^18
/2h 12h
9% 9% 9h 10 10fs\l079 ms 7092 10% m. 12% 131s 13lv lllk 73% 137s7778 777s 17^ 17%
992
/79'^ 77'''8 777/8 1898 783/8
Scyt St,rap
78% 79 79'
79%\797s 297^ 2O'^2O3/jf0verd,ouldn/7'A /7ff rm. 723^ 779^ 779¥ 77'A 72k 12A 77f¥ 779i, 779^ 72k 779v 779¥ 779i^ 779^^^ Waist lenqtfi SVs 9 9fs 99f 9'/2 10'/^ lOfs 7012 7998 707^ 7/77s Scye 10 //'/z 72 113^ /23^ 12^ 72% 13 1399^13% 13% 73' 72 217^ I2I2 77fs 7798 Strap
9% 9\ 9%
9%
Ml
Mk.
/69z
12k 12^
510 //%
M im
/63k 763^
ms
20
/6h /79s 77^/8 773^ 78 789'^ 7S9z 787/8 7998 799^ /^^* 20^^s2078 2/?7s /792 77fz 7792 77'^ 7792 7792 779^, 779^ 7792 7792 7212 77/2 72/2 77h /7'9^ 9'A
9h 9^ 9% 9% 10
/2ys 729^ 7292
12%
77
77%
77'/v /7'/z
107s 70'929^s 7072 79% 707^7978 127s 1393 1372 73M.22 17% 77% 773/1^ 7898 783/s 78% 79 199779^8 79fs 2d9s 2972 20^
Ws
ms
(htrshouUer
yaisllmffth
77
^cyc
7J
SLrap
,
27
(herslioulda
12^ 12^ 123^ 77^^ 12^ 77% mt 123k. 77% 773/^ 77% 77% 72^ 12^ 77% 77% TZ^vk 511 9ls_ 92l m. 992 9% 9% 9?s 10 70fs707j^70% 10^2 70% 70% 7078 77 777s Scye 12 12h ms 72% 12% 13 13'A Ml 73% 137s 777s 779v 77992 77% 777s 7J7s Strap /6'/2 16^ 7798 /7^8 77% 18 189t /89ii 78^ 7978 793/s 793/, 20 ZO'Af 20%207/8 27fS lA^ /8 18 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 /S Waisften^ 70f^ 2/7^ Scye 7sm7 7078 77 00 9A 9% 9'l2 9% 9% 97s 10 Ml 1298 72'/3 12!^ /2% 12?8 mi3% /3A1A 79 177^ 7n8 777s 77k 75 7Sf^ Strap 'h /6h /a 77^2 7^ 789s ^ 7S^/sm's Hk 79A ms 27/'s ?0% 27 279^ Blarl^ 10 \im mio% // /372/J% 22 BUe 13 /m/2 <her5fiouUtr
mim^
mm
m mm m
m.
Qyerihoutt/tr
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
How
Grade a Sack Coat from a
to
Tlie principle of grading sack coats
double breasted.
The
idea
is
is
the
same
in
all
cases,
Single Pattern
whether the coat be single or
to distribute the increase in the larger patterns or the decrease in
way that the backpart and front part will each receive their (meaning the breast measurements) are increased or decreased by an inch for each size, which leaves the pattern to be increased or decreased J4 inch, and is distributed in the following manner J4 'ich at the front edge and ^ inch at the side seam, which makes the lA inch double or i inch. The % inch at the side seam is divided in halves, which the smaller patterns in such a
respective share.
The
sizes
:
gives y&
This
forepart and the other ]/Âť inch to the side of the backpart. added or deducted from the width of the back, thereby increasing
inch to the side of the
latter
]/&
inch
is
also
or decreasing the shoulder width.
The scye depth is increased or decreased ]/(, inch for every size. If all men were of the same height and the increase or decrease were in the breast and waist measures only, the scye depth would increase or decrease ]/% inch for every size, but as the majority of men range in height from 5 feet 5 inches to 5 feet 9 inches, we must cut patterns for the majority, or as men are so beginning with a 38 breast coat for a man of normal height, and decreasing yi inch down to 33, the 33 pattern will give a proportionate measurement for a man 5 feet 5 inches in height, and increasing ^ inch up to 44 will make the 44 scye depth proportionate for a man ;
3
feet
9 inches
in height,
thereby striking the average.
:
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
10
How
Grade from a
to
In grading from a single pattern
have
First, be sure to
a it
necessary to observe two rules
is
it
breast and waist lines
tiie
Single Pattern
marked on
the pattern
medium size pattern, neither too large nor too small. A 38 breast is you may first grade down to 33 and then up to 43 or 44. This grade is made from a 38 breast pattern and graded down to
;
second, always use
good
a
and from
size,
33.
THE BACKPART. Copy
the 38 backpart
on a sheet of
stiff
mark
paper,
the breast and waist lines
and pro
ceed as follows
From
A
to
B
34 inch for every inch the pattern
is
B and make
square forward from
From From
I
D
to 2 to
C
^
is
same distance as from
make
or you can
in length
to
i,
^
%
inch;
of 33 breast.
inch.
the
is
to be reduced, in this case
is
B
distance from
the
A
This will reduce each pattern J^ inch B to C according to your judg
to B.
the length of the 33 backpart from
ment.
From E
to
F
34 inch for every inch reduction,
is
G
and from
and from
H
From 4
B
draw
the same.
is
and mark from 3 to
H
same distance as from A to B, which is inch place the top of back and trace it, and do the same from 2 to 3. from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, H to G and from J to I divide all spaces indicated after which cut out the graded backpart and number each division to avoid
H
—2
lines
H
to J.
to 3 is the
pattern to points
Now
F
through
to
H—F
Place the side seam of the original 38 backpart to points
;
;
into five equal parts,
mistakes.
THE FOREPART. Copy
the 38 forepart
on a sheet of paper and mark the breast and waist
O
Ascertain the distance from
P
to
by sixths,
the distance
lines.
may
be >^ of the breast or yi plus 34 inch, or >^ less >4 inch, in either case the shoulder point on the 33 pattern should be proportionately the same distance from as the 38 pattern. e.,
i.
O
For
O
P on the 38 pattern is 3^ of 38 breast plus 34 inch, should be Yb of 33 breast plus ]4 inch square up from Q. reduce the front edge from L to K, 34 inch for every inch, in this case 5 quarter
instance, if the distance
O
then the distance from
Now
from
to
Q
to
;
inches.
From line,
and
M
to
N
is
the
same as from
the front edge to touch points
L
to
K
N — K,
;
place the original pattern, breast line on breast
and trace the edge from
Y
through
W
X
K— N— 11
13.
From 7 to 6 is 34 inch for every inch reduction; from 9 to 8 and to are the same; place the side of the forepart to points 6 8 and trace the side from 6 through 8 to X; from to is the same as from C to on backpart; 14 to 15 is the same.
—
X
V
D
Trace the side seam and bottom of forepart with the original pattern. Measure from R to T 5^ inch or the same as from A to B on backpart; from 17 to 16 is the same as from T to star, and from 18 to 19 is the same; from T to 19 is Y& inch less than from 2 to 3 on the small backpart. Ascertain the height of neck by eighths,
t.
e.,
from
R
to
S
in this case is
]/%
of 38 breast plus
34 inch.
Make
Now
the distance
from
T
to
U
>^ of 33 breast plus 3^ inch
trace out the gorge, shoulder
Draw lines from many additional lines
Y
to Z,
T
;
square forwards from U.
and armscye with the original
to R, 18 to 19, 7 to 6,
V
pattern.
W,
10 to 11 and 12 to 13, and as as will ensure perfect lines on the graded patterns, and divide each line to
into five equal parts.
The pockets are marked as follows: From 38 to 33 is half the distance of C the 33 pattern according to your judgment,
All points of division
part of the grade
is
to D on backpart; decrease the and draw lines, from 38 to 33, each
must now be numbered according to
then completed.
size of pockets
on
side of the pocket.
their respective sizes,
and
this
/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
I.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
The grading from 38
to 33 breast being completed,
we
now proceed
will
to
make
the
increase from 38 to 43 breast.
mark around and C to D.
Place the graded backpart on a paper, and
from
B
At is
A B— A to
2 to
;
5,
H
3 to 4,
to G, J to
I
it
extend
;
all
the grade lines as
add the same amount from 38 to 43 as the decrease was from 38 to 33, which
yi inch for every size.
—
At 2 5 adil in the same proportion, i. c, whatever the decrease was from 38 to 33, make same increase from 38 to 43 breast. Increa.se at all grading points in the same way, adding at each point the same amount per size as the decrease was from ^S to 33. the
THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a paper and
Extend Z,
K
to L,
At
all
M to
K— L
the grading lines as
N,
mark around
from 19
II to 10, 13 to 12, 15 to 14,
it.
T
to 18, 16 to 17,
V
W and 6 M — N, which to
add ^ inch for every inch; at line which will make the sizes as follows:
to R, 23 to 22, 25 to 24,
Y
to
to 7. is
the waist
line,
add 516 inch
for every inch,
Waist.
Brea.st.
34^ 35H
38 39
At At
II
40
37
41
38>4
42
39J^
43
40?4
44
42
— 10 and 13—
12,
add the same as
at
M — N.
other grading points, add from the 38 to 43 breast in the same proportion as the reduction was from 38 to 33 number the various sizes and proceed to cut out the patterns. all
;
Beginning with the 39 breast, mark around the lower part of armscye, prick through pxDints marked 39 and trace out with the next smaller pattern, which is the 38 size,
all
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
2.
13
:
;
AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER
14
V\o\N to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern The
principle of grading the stout coats
is
the
same as
except that the pattern to grade from must be of larger
For instance, the stout would therefore be a good
Now
sets are size to
made
from 38
to run in sizes
to
A
48 breast measure.
42
grade from.
proceed as follows
Place the backpart of a 42 stout on a
and waist
governing the normal coat,
that
size.
stiff
paper and mark around
it
;
mark
also
the breast
lines.
From
Now
15 to 15
and
in this case is y% inch, or
— 17 and mark as from
12 through 13, 14, 15 and
38.
^
the same,
is
which
to 17, Yz inch for every inch reduction,
Measure from 17
the difference between 42
inch.
place the baqk pattern to points 15
16 to 17.
From
ID to 10
Yb inch for every
is
mch
reduction, which
is
Yt
Square out from the lower point 10 and make the distance from 10 to square up from 11,^ inch.
From
12 to 12
is
the
same as from 10
to 10; place the pattern to points
11, 34
11
of 38 breast;
— 10
and
11
— 12
and shape the 38 back.
Now draw
lines
Divide
the points as
all
from
11 to 11, 12 to 12, 13 to 13
marked
and 14 to
into five equal parts
14.
and number them.
THE FOREPART. Place the forepaYt on a paper and
mark around
it;
mark
also
the breast
and waist
lines.
Reduce from 2y to 27, Y& '"ch for each inch from 29 to 29 is the same as from 27 place your pattern to points 27 29 and shape the side seam of the smaller size forepart. ;
to 27
—
From
23 to 23 reduce the forepart 34 inch for every inch, and from 24 to 24 reduce the
same.
Now
place the pattern, the front edge to touch at the inner line 23
—24 and
shape the front
edge of the smaller coat as from 22 through 23, 24, 25 and 26.
it
is_
is
Ascertain the distance from 32 to 33 or the neck point of the large pattern by sixths, i. c, be Yd of the breast, or Yd pl^s 34 inch or Yd '^^s 34 inch, and whatever the distance
may
give the same proportion to the small coat.
In other words, if the distance from 32 to 33 42 breast, make the distance from 32 to 34 Yd of 38 breast and square up from 34. From 20 to 20 is Yd inch for each size, or the same distance as from 10 to 10 on backpart.
Yd of
Ffom to \2
19 to 19 and 18 to 18 are the same as from 20 to 20; measure the small backpart from and make the small forepart from 20 to 18, 34 inch less.
From 20 pattern
is
Now
to 35
on
large pattern
is
3^ of
42 breast plus yi inch
;
from 20
to
11
36 on small
3^ of 38 plus 34 inch.
connect
all
points as
shown and divide each space
into five equal parts.
must be numbered and the patterns cut out the same as explained before.
All divisions
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
3.
15
AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER
i6
How
to
Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a
Single Pattern
Continued
The
reduction in the patterns having been made,
we
will
now
increase the sizes from 42 to
46 inches.
THE BACKPART. Place the graded back part on a sheet of paper and
mark around
it;
also
mark
the
breast
and waist lines. Extend all the grade lines from the original grade as shown from 10 up, from 11 up, from 12 up, from 1,3 out, from 14 out, from 15, 16 and 17 out. Increase the back height from the 42 grade up the same amount as the decrease was made from 42 down to 38, which is Yf, inch for every inch. Increase each size at 1 1 the same amount as the decrease was from 42. Increase at points 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17 the same amount as the grade was decreased from 42 to 38, which
is
%
inch for every inch.
THE FOREPART. Extend
Add
mark the breast and waist shown and proceed as follows:
the graded forepart on a paper
Copy
all
the grade lines as
;
at the breast point 23, J4 inch for
lines.
every inch increase.
.^dd at points 24, 25 and 26. 516 inch or >4 and
Vi;
inch for every inch.
This
will increase
waist size as follows: Breast.
Make ately at all
42
43
4.3'4
44
445^
45
45?4
46
47
same as the decrease was below 42, and increase proportiongrading points the same space per size as the decrease was from 42 to 38.
the increase at 22 the
Number so on,
Waist.
42
all spaces as before and, beginning with 43 size, trace always tracing each pattern with the next smaller size.
it
out with the 42 pattern and
.â€¢/
M ERI C AN PATTER A'
DIAGRAM
4.
GRA
DER
17
:
AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER
i8
How
Grade a DoubleBreasted Sack Coat from a
to
Single Pattern This grade
made
is
This pattern
same way as the
in the
back to the
to avoid referring
and
for a 38 breast coat,
is
single breasted grade, but will describe
it
so as
grade.
first
is
graded down to 33 inches breast.
THE BACKPART. From A
B
on a sheet of paper and proceed as follows
the backpart
Copy
A
to
yi inch for every inch.
is
from F through the same as from A
side of small backpart
F
to
is
Place the top of the backpart lines from E to E, G to
Draw
Divide
for the small backpart,
I is
the same.
breast line; and shape the
and
I
A which is Ye inch. to points A — E, and trace out G, H to H and K to K.
and
y& inch.
I,
K
M.
to
to
connecting lines into five equal parts, and
all
E
M — with breast line on G to H and from H through
Place the side of the backpart to points
From F
A
Square forward from
half scye depth of the small back.
is
make the distance from A to E K of 33 breast. Go up from From M to M is J/^ inch for every inch reduction. I to
mark
from
A
E
to
E
and
to F.
the sizes.
THE FOREPARTS. Trace the forepart on a
stiff
paper,
proceed as follows: From I to i reduce the forepart
^
breast and waist lines, also the pockets and
mark the
inch for every inch.
to i, and from 3 to 3 is the same. and 3 and trace the front edge from Z down. From 6 to 6 reduce the side of forepart Yf, inch for every inch, and from 4 to 4 the same. Place the side of forepart to points 6 4, and trace the side seam of the small pattern from 7 through 6 and 5 to 4. Ascertain the distance from D to J by sixths, and make the distance D to S proportionate!)
From
2 to 2
is
same as from
the
Place the pattern to points
i
i
—2
—
the same.
For S, Yb of
instance,
Q
From
to J
3^ of
is
38 breast make the distance from
D
to
S.
same distance as from
the
is
D
from
Square up from
O
to
the distance
if
33 breast.
A
to
A
on backpart, which
is Y(>
inch for every
inch decrease.
Q on Q
From »".
of
if
e.,
12,
from
Now ;
L
^
is
breast plus Ya inch.
From O From N tern
small pattern to to
V
is
proportionately the same as from
Make
from
Q
to
Q to L on the 38 pattern. V on small pattern is Y&
Y
O is the same as R to Q. to X is the same as O to O.
from
Points
inch, then
to
place the 38 pattern to points
also
^
of 38 breast plus Square out from
Q
Y— X
to is
U
N — O— Q
V is cut out of fromU to Y on the
where the
the distance
and trace out the shoulder of the small
pat
trace out the gorge.
the gorge.
small pattern
the
same
as
U
to
Y
is
on the large
pattern.
Now draw Divide
all
to Q, T to T, Y to Y, to O, lines from 7 to 7, N to N, connecting points into five equal parts and number them.
O
Q
U
to
U
and Z
to Z.
This finishes the grade.
Now
place the graded backpart on a paper and
marked 37 and
Prick through
all
Do
backparts, always tracing
this to all
Now
points
mark
the centre seam.
trace out the backpart with the 38 pattern.
them with the next larger pattern.. and mark the front of artnscye. points marked 37. Remove the grade and trace out with the
place the graded forepart on a paper
With an awl
jirick
through
all
38 pattern.
Do
this to all sizes,
always tracing out with the next larger pattern.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
5.
19
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
20
How
Grade a Frock Coat from a
to
Single Pattern
is the same as the sack coat with this exception, the and this coat has three parts, /. e., the back, sidebody and forepart. The division at the back seams must therefore be in three parts instead of two, and as 312 equals '/j, and the division is J4 inch for every inch, each part must have either aii increase or
The
principle of grading this pattern
sack coat
inch for every inch.
,ij
decrease of
The
cut in two parts
is
of this pattern
size
38 breast and
is
graded down to 34.
is
THE BACKPART. PYom A
to
B
^
is
Square out from
inch for every inch.
B and make
From I to 2 is 5^ inch. From G to H and 29 to 30 From 4
to 3
is
the
From E From D
H — 30
From Draw
>^ of
i,
34 breast.
which is 48 and trace from 3 to H.
A
same as from
inch.
to B.
B — 2 and
2
—3
F is T^ inch for every inch. to C and J to I are the same. F C the backpart to points H
Place
to
yk inch for every inch,
is
Place the backpart to points Place the backpart to points
from B
the distance
and trace
out.
to
— — —
the lower point at lines
connecting
H
all
to 30
and trace
i
the same as
is
G
grade points from 2 to
out.
to 29.
5,
E
3 to 4, 30 to 29,
to F,
G
D
and
to 7,
and
to
I to J.
Divide
points into 4 equal parts
all
and number them.
THE SIDEBODY. Reduce
the sidebody
from 12
to 13
^
inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same.
Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13
from 7 through 13 and down. From 9 to 8 is f"? inch for every divide
all
from 8
inch.
—E and trace
Place the sidebody to points 8
Now
—7 and trace out
out.
grading points into four equal parts and number them.
THE FOREPART. Reduce from 17 to 16 ^^ inch for every inch, and from Reduce from P to Y 34 inch for every inch, and from Q Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points 25 through
Y and
Z
to S.
K
to
to
Z
Y— Z
20 the same. the same.
;
and trace the front edge from
—
Place the side of forepart to points 20
L
Ascertain the distance from 24 to
16 and trace out. by sixths and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the
(See first diagram.) Square up from 21.
same.
From From From From
W
M
to
V
to 23
W W
to
to
U X
is
the
same
as
from
and from 22 to is is
U
Now
place the pattern to points all
to
B
on backpart.
same
as
from 28 to
J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. proportionately the same as from to N.
Square forwards from X. Connect
A
are the
M
U—23 —W,
and trace
grading points as shown and divide
all
W. (See
out, also
first
from
diagram.)
W
to 25.
points into four equal parts and
number
them.
THE
SKIRT.
Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33, J4 inch for every inch. Measure the small front and sidebody from S to 16 and to
32 the same.
to T,
and make the
skirt
from 33
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
6.
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. Place the skirt pattern to points 32 36 and trace into four equal parts and number each size. For cutting out you proceed as follows
—
Place the graded backpart on a paper and all
marked
points
37.
Continue
backpart.
Remove
in the
mark
down;
down from
also trace
33, divide
the centre seam, after which prick through
the grade and trace out with the next larger size which
same way
for the next
size.
Prick through
all
points
is
the 38
marked 36
and trace out with the 37 pattern.
THE SIDEBODY. mark down the side as from E to T and the marked 37 and trace out with the 38 pattern. The
Place the graded sidebody on a paper and
bottom from
T
to 17.
Prick through
all
places
same way. First mark marked 37 and trace out with
foreparts are cut in the
through
To
places
all
the
front of the armscye, after which prick
the 38 pattern.
increase the frock grade proceed as follows:
THE BACKPART. Extend lines B to A, 2 to 5, 3 to At B A increase from 38 to 43
—
34,
which At 2
is Yf,
—5
4,
30 to 29,
in the
H
to G,
C
same proportion
to
D
and
I
to J.
as the decrease
was from 38
to
inch for every size.
same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. The sidebody and skirt are increased in the same way as the backpart, «. e., increase in the same proportion as the decrease was made. increase from 38 to 43 in the
Increase at
all
grading points
in the
The forepart is increased as follows: At line Y P add J4 '"ch for every size,
—
size; at 17
portion as
and 16 add ^ inch for every size; the decrease was from 38 to 34.
—
—
Z Q and S R add 516 inch for every other points are increased in the same pro
at lines all
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
7.
23
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
24
How The
Grade a Stout Frock Coat from a
to
size of this pattern is
42 breast and
Single Pattern
graded down to 38.
is
THE BACKPART. From A
B
to
^
is
Square out from
inch for every inch.
B and make
From I to 2 is 5^ inch. From G to H and 29 to 30
is ]/&
to 3
is
the
same as from
Place the backpart to points
From E From D
F
to to
C
B
from B
to
i,
^
of 38 breast.
inch for every inch, which
H — 30
Place the backpart to points
From 4
the distance
A
and trace from 3
is
48 inch.
H.
to
to B.
—2 and 2—3
and trace
out.
and trace
out.
iV inch f*^"" every inch. and J to I are the same. is
Place the backpart to points
Draw
lines
Divide
all f>oints
H — F— C— I
grade points from 2 to 5, 3 to into four equal parts and number them.
connecting
all
4,
E
to F,
C
to
D
and
I to J.
THE SIDEBODY. Reduce the sidebody from 12
to 13, ^ inch for every inch,
Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13
and from 7 through 13 and down; from 13 to From 9 to 8 is T^ inch for every inch. Place the sidebody to points 8 *, which
15
—
Now
divide
all
is
is
the
same
and from 6 to 7 the same. and trace out from 8
—7
to 7,
as 12 to 14.
slightly above the breast line
and trace
out.
grading points into four equal parts and number them.
THE FOREPART, Reduce from 17 to 16, ^ inch for every inch, and from K to 20 the same. inch for every inch, and from Q to Z the same. Reduce from P to Y Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points Y Z; and trace the front edge from 25 through Y and Z to S.
^
—
Place the side of forepart to points 20 to
17.
From
10 up to the small forepart
— 16 is
and trace
the
out.
same as 16
is
From
18 to 16
above
17.
is
the
same
as 19
L by sixths, and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the Square up from 21. is the same as from A to B on backpart. From to From \' to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. From to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. From to X is proportionately the same as from iVI to N. (See first diagram.) Square forward from X. Ascertain the distance from 24 to
same.
(See
first
diagram.)
W
M
W W
Now
place the pattern to points
Connect
all
U—23—W,
and trace
grading points as shown and divide
all
out, also
from
W to
25.
points into four equal parts
and number
them.
For cutting out always begin with the next Prick through
all
points
to the largest size, in this case the 41.
marked 41 and trace out with the next
largest pattern,
which
is
the 42.
In increasing the sizes begin with the 43 and trace out with the 42 smallest.
which
is
the next
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
8.
25
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
26
How
Grade a DoubleBreasted Frock Coat from a
to
Single Pattern The
size of this pattern is
38 breast and
graded down
is
to 34.
THE BACKPART. From
A
B
to
J^ inch for every inch. B and make the distance
is
from
Square out from
From From
to 2
I
G
H
to
B
to
£ind
29 to 30
Place the backpart to points
C
to
is
the same.
Place the backpart to points
Draw I
lines connecting all
is
48 inch.
H —30
—
D
>^ of 34 breast.
yi inch for every inch, which and trace from 3 to H.
is
A
to B. From 4 to 3 is the same as from Place the backpart to points B 2 and 2 From E to F is T*z inch for every mch.
From
i,
5^ inch.
is
— 3 and trace
H— F—C—I
and trace
grade points from 2 to
out.
out.
5,
3 to 4, 30 to 29,
E
to F,
C
to
D
and
to J.
Divide
all
points into four equal parts
and number them.
THE SIDEBODY. to 13 t's inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same. Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13 7 and trace out from 8 to 7 and
Reduce the sidebody from 12
—
from 7 through 13 and down. From 13 to 15 is the same as 12 to 17. inch for every inch. From 9 to 8 is Place the sidebody to points 8 star, which is slightly above the breast Now divide all grading points into four equal parts and number them.
^
—
line,
and trace
out.
THE FOREPART. Reduce from 17 Reduce from P
to 16 to
t*!
Y ^
inch for every inch, and from
inch for every inch, and from
K to 20 the Q to Z the
same.
same.
—
Place the forepart, breast line on breast hne to points Y Z, and trace the front edge from 25 through Y and Z to S. Point S is as much above the lower line as line 16 is above line 17. 16 and trace out. Place the side of forepart to points 20 Ascertain the distance from 24 to L by sixths, and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the
—
same.
(See
From M From V From From
Square up from 21. same as from A to B on backpart. to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. (See to X is proportionately the same as from M to N.
first
to
W W
diagram.)
W
is
the
forward from X.
Now
place the pattern to points
Connect
all
grading
f)oints as
U— 23 —W,
first
and trace out, also from
shown and divide
all
W
Square
diagram.) to 25.
points into four equal parts and
number
them.
THE
SKIRT.
%
inch for every inch. Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33, Measure the small front from S to 16 and 15 to T, and make the
skirt
from 33
to
32 the
same.
From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. Place the skirt pattern to points 32 36 and trace
—
down; also trace down from 33, divide and number each size. For cutting out always begin with the next to the largest size, in this case the 37. Prick through all points marked 37 and trace out with the next largest pattern, which is the 38. The rever is graded as follows From R to 10 is the same as S to 25 on forepart, from 10 to 14 is the same as 11 to 15, into four equal parts
divide from 10 to 11 and 14 to 15 into four equal parts.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
9.
V
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
28
Ho\A/ to Grade Dress Coats from a Single Pattern This grade is made from a 38 breast pattern and is graded down to 34 inch breast. The back and sidebody being graded the same as the other frock coats, we will just show the front
and the
skirt.
THE FOREPART. Reduce from 17
From
K
to 20
to 16, xV '"ch for every inch.
the
is
Reduce from P
same as 17
Y ^
to
to 16.
Q
inch for every inch and from
Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points and Z to S. 25 through
to
Z
the same.
Y —Z,
and trace the front edge from
Y
Place the side of forepart to points 20
From C
A
Line
to 16 is
the
is
same length
much above
as
line
B
as
— 16
from
D
as line 16
L
Ascertain the distance from 24 to same. (See first diagram.)
and trace down. to 17. is
above
line 17.
by sixths and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the
Square up from 21.
M
From From From From
to
V
W
W W
to to
J^ for every inch.
is
to U are the same as from 28 to W. U is ^ inch less than the back shoulder seam. X is proportionately the same as from M to N. (See
to 23
and from 22
first
diagram.)
Square forward from X.
Now
place the pattern
to points
From 25 to 14 is the same From 10 to 26 and from Connect
Now
from 10
lines
connect
all
from
as
U— 23 — W, O to 15.
14 to 26
to 11
is
and trace out; also trace out from
where the
and from 14
to
15
;
V
is
also
W
to 10.
cut out of the small forepart.
from 26
grading points as shown and divide them
all
to 27.
into four equal parts
and num
ber them.
THE
SKIRT.
Reduce the
skirt
from 34
From 35 From 36
to
36
the same as from 31 to 32.
to
32
is is
the
to 33 Y^ inch for every inch,
same as from 35
—31 —36—
Connect points 32
35, 33
—
and from 31 to 32 the same.
to 31. 34,
and divide them
all
into four equal portions
and
number them. Cut out these patterns and tracing it out with the
in the
38.
same way as the other graded patterns beginning with the 37
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
10.
29
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
30
How This grade
Grade a Waistcoat from a
to
made from
is
and
a 38 breast
is
Single Pattern
graded down to 34.
THE BACKPART. From
A
to
B
^
is
inch for every inch reduction, which
and make the distance from
B
to
C
D
to
is
G
and square up from
toG.
From From From From
F
B
J^ inch.
Place the square to the breast line so that the right angle will touch at 3
Square out from
46 inch.
is
From C
>^ of 34 breast.
3 to 2 reduce the backpart
G
to
F
H
I to
the
is
same
as
^
inch for every inch
A
from
to B,
which
is
%
;
square up from
2.
inch for every inch.
reduce the backpart J4 inch for every inch.
M
and to L are % inch for every inch. Place the back pattern to points B D and trace out; also trace out from D to F, from to H and H through J to L. Draw lines connecting points D E, F G, H I, J K, and L M. Divide all connecting points into four equal parts and number them according to size.
K
to J
—
—
—
— —
—
THE FOREPART. Ascertain the distance from 4 to
R
by sixths and make the distance from 4 to S propor
tionately the same.
For
instance,
From Q From P From From Y
to
P
to
N
from 4
if
5^ of 34 breast plus
^
inch
to ;
R
is
34 of 38 breast plus
34 inch for every inch reduction
is
is
'4 inch
^
inch
make
the distance from 4 to
S
square up from S.
more than from
W to V reduce the
D
;
from
O to N
is
the
same
as
from S
to P.
to F.
front yi inch for every inch.
X
and Z to i are the same. i and trace the front edge; also trace cut Place the front edge of pattern to points \' X the shoulder, opening and armscye. Draw lines connecting points N O, P— Q, V'^W, X Y and Z i, and divide all connecting points into four equal portions and number them. Now beginning with the backpart, mark the center seam and bottom. to
— —
—
—
Prick through
Follow
this up,
—
points marked 37 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. and as before, prick through all points marked 36 and trace
all
it
out with the
37 pattern and so on until finished.
THE FOREPART. mark the armscye and side seam, after which prick marked 37 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. Keep on in the same way always tracing out with the next larger pattern,
Place your graded forepart on a paper
through
all
points
until finished,
;
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
II.
31
AM ERICAN PATTERN GRADER
32
Double Grading For the man who
is
sure of his pattern there
is
nothing Hke the double grade.
quickest, surest and most simple way, and although some cutters alteration it is easier to make one model, alter it and grade from
necessary to change one pattern the 38,
it
is
just as easy to
This grade
and grade from two patterns.
This grade
is
is
will it,
argue that yet
if
It
in case
is
the
of an
the cutter finds
it
change the 42 breast pattern as the 36 or
made from
a 36 and a 42 breast pattern.
a 36 and 42 breast pattern.
made from
Single'Breasted Sack
Coat
THE B^CKPART.
line
Place the backpart of a 36 breast pattern on the backpart of a 42 pattern, with the breast Mark the small back on the large one. line, and centre seam to centre seam.
on breast
Draw all
lines
from
D
E to E, B to B, F to F, C to C, G to G, and X to X. Divide between the small and large patterns into six equal parts and number
D,
to
the corresponding points
each division according to
size.
THE FOREPART. Copy
the forepart of the 42 breast pattern on a
stiff
paper
;
also
mark
the breast and waist
and the pockets.
lines
Place the front of the 36 breast pattern on the 42 front, with breast line on breast line, and Mark the small pattern on the large one also mark the
front of armscye to front of armscye.
;
small pockets on the large pattern.
Now
U
connect
U, 6 to
to
all
the grading points as
6, J to J, 5
to
Q
5,
to
Q,
P
as desired so as to ensure perfect lines
shown from L
to P, ;
O
to
O, and
and divide them
K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, N, and make as many more lines into six equal parts and number
to L,
N all
to
ihem.
Now
place the graded backpart on a paper and
Prick through
Do
all
points
this to all backparts,
marked 37 and
mark
the centre seam.
trace out the backpart with the 36 pattern.
always tracing them with the next smaller pattern.
THE FOREPART. mark the front of armscye. marked 37 and trace it out with the 36 pattern. 38 forepart, and trace it with the 37 pattern and so on
Place the graded forepart on a paper and
Prick through
Do
the
all
points
same with the
until finished.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
12.
33
AM ERICAN PATTERN GRADER
34
Double Grading This grade
is
a 38 and a 48 breast pattern.
made from
SingleBreasted Stout Sack
THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 38 breast pattern on the backpart of a 48 pattern with the breast line Mark the small back on the large one. line, and centre seam to centre seam.
on breast
Draw
lines
Divide
all
from
D to
E
D,
to E,
B
to B,
F
C
to F,
to C,
G
to
G
and
X
to X.
the corresponding points between the small and large pattern into ten equal parts
and number each division according
to size.
THE FOREPART. Copy lines
the forepart of the 48 breast pattern
on a
stiff
paper; also
mark
the breast
and waist
and the pockets. Place the front of the 38 breast pattern on the 48 front, with breast line on breast Mark the small pattern on the large one; also
front of armscye to front of armscye.
line,
and
mark
the
small pockets on the large pattern.
shown from L to L, K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, Q, P to P, O to O, and N to N, and make as many more lines as desired so as to ensure perfect lines; and divide them all into ten equal parts and number
Now
U
U, 6
to
connect
all
the grading points as
to 6, J to J, 5 to 5,
Q
to
them.
Now
place the graded backpart on a paper
Prick through
Do
all
points
this to all backparts,
marked 39 and
and mark the centre seam.
trace out the backpart with the 38 pattern.
always tracing them with the next smaller pattern.
THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through
Do
the
all
mark
the front of armscye.
marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 40 forepart, and trace it with the 39 pattern and so on
points
same with the
until finished.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
Tl
PIAGRAM
13.
35
tX
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
36
DoubleBreasted Sack Coat THE BACKPART. line
Place the backpart of a 33 breast pattern on the backpart of a 43 pattern, with the breast Mark the small back on the large one. line, and centre seam to centre seam.
on breast
Draw parts and
from
lines
Divide
D
to D,
E
to E,
B
F
to B,
to F,
C
to C,
the corresponding points between the small
all
number each
G
to G,
X
X
to
and
and large patterns
I
to
I.
into ten equal
division according to size.
THE FOREPART. Copy
forepart of the 43 breast pattern on a
the
stiff
paper
;
also
mark
the breast and waist
and pockets.
lines
Place the front of the 33 breast pattern on the 43 front, with breast line on breast Mark the small pattern on the large one; also
front of armscye to front of armscye.
line,
and
mark
the
small pockets on the large pattern.
Now
U
connect
all
the grading points as
shown
from'
L
to L,
O
K to
K,
R
to R,
S
to S,
T
to T,
N
to O, and to N, and make as many more J to J, 5 to 5, Q to Q, P to P, lines as desired so as to ensure perfect lines; and divide them all into ten equal parts and to
U, 6 to
6,
number them.
Now
place the graded backpart on a paper
Prick through
Do
all
points
this to all backparts,
marked 34 and
and mark the centre seam.
trace out the backpart with the 33 pattern.
always tracing them with the next smaller pattern.
THE FOREPART. mark
Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through
Do
the
all
marked 34 and 35 forepart, and
points
same with the
the front of armscye.
trace
it
out with the ^^ pattern.
trace
it
with the 34 pattern and so on until finished.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
14.
37
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
38
How This grade
to is
Make a Double Grade
made from 34
to
for a Frock
Coat
42 breast.
THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 34 size frock coat on a 42 centre seam to centre seam. Mark the small pattern on the large one. lines
Now
divide
D—
A—
with breast
all
on breast
line
F— F, C— C, G— G
B—
E—
D, E, A, B, the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and
connecting points
Draw
size,
line,
and
and
i— i.
number them according
to sizes.
THE SIDEBODY. Place the 34 sidebody on the 42 size, with breast line on breast line, keeping them even at line 8—9, mark the small sidebody on the large one U, and draw as many more lines as you Draw lines connecting points I— I, Y Y, and parts graded. like so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the
U—
—
THE FOREPART. Copy the forepart
of the 42 breast size on a
stiff
Place the forepart of tlie 34 breast size upon armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern upon the large one.
Draw
—O
lines
connectuig points
and draw as many more
;
Divide
all
it,
paper and mark the breast and waist
lines.
with breast line on breast line and front of
LL, KK, RR, SS, TT, JJ, QQ, PP,
lines as desired to
and
O
ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts.
connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them. the pockets proceed as follows:
To mark Mark the
regular breast pocket on tlie 42 copy, and mark the regular pocket on the 34 forewhich mark the breast pocket of the small pattern on the 42 copy and divide the difference between the large and small pockets into 8 equal parts and number them.
part, after
THE
SKIRT.
Place the 34 size skirt on the 42 size keeping them even as at 10 on the large one.
Point 7
is
where the
Connect points
S
—5
—
Mark
7.
the small skirt
skirts diverge.
and 6
—6 and
divide the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and
number
them.
This finishes the grade. Now beginning with tlie backpart. mark the
marked
centre
seam and prick through
all
points
35.
Remove Repeat
and trace out the 35 with the 34 pattern. same way marking out the 36 size and tracing it out with the 35 backpart.
the graded backpart in the
THE SIDEBODY. Place the graded sidebody on a paper and
mark
bodies diverge), through 8 to 9. Prick through all points marked 35 and trace
it
as from star (which
is
where the two
side
out with the 34 partem.
THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on
a
paper and mark the front of the armscye.
all places marked 35 and trace Repeat the same, marking the 36 and tracing
Pridv through
it it
out with the 34 pattern. out with the 35 pattern, and so on until
finished.
THE Place the graded
down
skirt
SKIRT.
on a paper and mark from 7 where the
Prick through at 5 and 6 at places marked 33 all
t%vo skirts diverge to
10,
the front edge and the bottom.
points meet at 7.
:
and trace
it
out with the 34 skirt pattern, making
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
15.
39
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
40
How
Make a Double Grade
to
This grade
is
made from 38
to
Coat
for a Stout Frock
48 breast.
THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 38 size frock coat on a 48 seam to centre seam.
size,
with breast line on breast
and
line,
centre
Mark Draw
on the large one.
the small pattern
connecting points
lines
Now
divide
all
A—A, D—D, E —E, F— F, C— C, G— G, and
the connecting lines into 10 equal parts
and
i
—
i.
number them according
to
sizes.
THE SIDEBODY. line
Place the 38 sidebody on the 48 size, with breast line on breast 8 ^ mark tlie small sidebody on the large one.
you
like so as to
—
line,
keeping them even at
;
Draw
—
—
X—
—
I I, Y Y, X, and U U, and draw as ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded.
connecting points
lines
many more
lines as
THE FOREPART. Copy
the forepart of the 48 breast size on a stiff paper and mark the breast and waistlines. Place the forepart of the 38 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of
armscye
—
to front
of armscye.
Mark the small pattern upon the large copy. Draw lines connecting points L— L, K— K, R—R, O; and draw as many more lines as desired to ensure Divide
Now
all
S— S, T— T, J—J, Q— Q, P— P,
and
O
perfect uniformity of the foreparts.
connecting lines into 10 equal parts and
number them.
beginning with the backpart
Mark the centre seam and prick through all points marked 39. Remove the graded backpart and trace out the 39 with the 38 pattern. Repeat in the same way marking out the 40 size and tracing it out with
the 39 backpart.
THE SIDEBODY. Place the graded sidebody on a paper and bodies diverge), through 8 to
Prick through
all
jxiints
mark
as
trace
it
from
star,
(which
is
where the two
side
9.
marked 39 and
out with the 38 pattern.
THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a paper and
Repeat the finished.
mark
the front of the armscye.
marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. same, marking the 40 and tracing it out with the 39 pattern, and
Prick through
all
places
so on until
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
i6.
4i
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
42
How
Make
to
a Double Grade for a DoubleBreasted
1
Frock This grade
made from
is
a 38 to 44 breast.
THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 38 size frock coat on a 44 centre
seam
Mark Draw
Now
size,
with breast line on breast
line,
and
to centre seam.
the small pattern on the large one.
connecting points
lines
divide
all
A—A, D— D, E— E, B —B, F— F, C—C, G— G,
the connecting lines into 6 equal parts and
and
number them according
i
—
i.
to sizes.
THE SIDEBODY. Place the 38 sidebody on the 44 size, with breast line on breast line 8 9, mark the small sidebody on the large one.
—
Draw you
Y—
—
Keeping them even
U— U
X—
X and and draw as Y, I, ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded.
lines connecting points I
like so as to
line.
many more
at
lines as
THE FOREPART. 44 breast size on a Place the forepart of the 38 breast size upon armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern upon the large copy.
Copy the forepart of
Draw
O— O;
the
lines connecting points
and draw as many more
Divide
all
stiff it,
paper and mark the breast and waist
L—L, K— K, R— R, S— S, T—T, J—J, Q—Q, P—P,
lines as desired to
lines.
with breast line on breast line and front of
and
ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts.
connecting lines into 6 equal parts and number them.
THE
SKIRT.
Place the 38 size skirt on the 44 size, keeping them even at star, which is half way between Mark tlie small skirt on the large one. 5 and 7. Connect points 5 5, 6 6, 7 7 and 8 8 and divide the connecting lines into 6 equal parts
— —
—
—
and number them.
THE REVER. Place the rever of the 38 coat on the 44 rever, keeping them even on the straight line and bottom; connect points 9 9, and 10 10 and divide them into 6 equal parts.
—
—
Now marked
beginning with the backpart, mark the
centre
seam and prick through
all
points
39.
Remove Repeat
the graded backpart
and trace out the 39 with the 38 pattern. same way marking out the 40 size and tracing it out with the 39 backpart.
in the
THE SIDEBODY. Place the graded sidebody on a paper and bodies diverge through 8 to 9. Prick through
all
points
marked 39 and
mark
trace
it
as
from
star,
which
is
where the two
side
out with the 38 pattern.
THE FOREPART. mark the front of the armscye. marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. Repeat the same, marking the 40 and tracing it out with the 39 pattern, and Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through
all
places
so
on
until fin
ished.
THE
SKIRT.
Place the graded skirt on a paper and mark across the top as from 5 through the star to 7. Prick through at 5 6 7 8 at places marked 39. Remove the grade and trace out with
———
the 38 pattern.
Do
the
same with the 40 and trace out with
ished.
The
rever
is
cut out the
same
as the other parts.
the 39 pattern
and so on
until fin
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
I
DIAGRAM
17.
43
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
44
How to
Make a Double Grade
Coat
for a Dress
This grade is made from 34 to 42 breast. This grade being made the same as the other double grade frock coats,
it
is
only necessary
to describe the foreparts.
THE FOREPART. the forepart of the 42 breast size dress coat on a stiff paper and mark the breast line. Place the forepart of the 34 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of
Copy
armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern upon the large copy.
Draw
lines
0—0. Points 3 fish is cut
connecting points I^L,
—M
is
where the
V
is
K— K, R— R, S— S, T— T, J— Q— Q, P— P, J,
cut out of the gorge,
out at the waist.
Connect points Divide
all
11— 11, 12—12, and
13
—
13, also
and points
M— M
connecting lines into eight equal parts and
and
11
— 12— 13
is
and
where the
3— 3.
number them.
mark the front of the armscye. marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. same, marking the 36 and tracing it out with the 35 pattern, and
Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through
Repeat the finished.
all
places
so on until
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
1
8.
45
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
46
The The The
Sleeve
sleeves are graded as follows;
coats being graded,
measure the armscye of the smaller pattern and
also the
armscye
of the largest pattern and cut a sleeve for each coat.
HOW TO
GRADE.
These sleeves are graded from 34 to 42. Place the top sleeve of the 34 pattern on the top sleeve of the 42, the sleeves to lay even at O A, so that the front notch will come together on both sleeves. Mark the small pattern on the large one. Draw lines connecting E E, C C, B B and A A. Put in other lines as at F F, G G, and H H, so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the patterns. Divide all connecting lines into eight equal portions and number them according to sizes.
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
THE UNDERSLEEVE. Place the undersleeve of the 42 size on a
stiff
paper and trace
it
out.
Place the undersleeve of the 34 pattern on the 42 undersleeve. Keep them even at points N J. Mark the small undersleeve on the large one.
Now
connect points
Divide
Now
the
all
N — N,
— —J
J
;
also connect at the elbow at
M — M and
P— P.
connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them.
place the graded top sleeve on a sheet of paper
and mark as from I (which is where and from O to A. Prick th.'f ugh all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36 and trace it out with the
two
sleeves diverge), to point
O
35 pattern.
THE UNDERSLEEVE. N
Place the graded undersleeve on a paper and mark as from to J. Prick through all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36, and tracing 35 pattern, and so on until finished, always tracing out with the next smaller
it
size.
out with the
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
19.
47
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
48
How The grading of Cut a
collars
Grade Collars
to
ought to be well understood after the description of the other grades.
collar for the smallest pattern
and one for the
largest pattern.
Place the small pattern on top of the large one, the crease line as at point
Draw
lines
as the difference the
same way
always tracing
as it
A
to meet.
connecting the small collar with the large one, divide them into as is
all
many
parts
between the smallest and the largest pattern, number them, cut them out in double grades are cut, beginning with the next to the smallest collar and
out with the smaller
size.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
20.
49
A
50
M ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER
The How This grade
is
to
made from 34
Double Grade Two
Grade Vests from
Patterns
inches to 42 inches breast.
Place the backpart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on a 42 inch back pattern with breast line on breast line and centre seam to center seam. Mark the small pattern on the large one.
Draw
G — G;
lines
connecting
also connect the
equal parts, and
—
grading points as from A A, as at D D, and divide
all
—
two armscyes
B
— B, C—C, E—E, F— F,
all
and
the grading points into eight
number them.
THE FOREPART. Trace out the forepart of a 42 inch breast waistcoat on a paper lines,
;
mark
the breast
and waist
also the pockets.
Now
place the forepart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on the 42 forepart with breast line
and front of armscye to front of armscye; mark the small pattern on the large one; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. on breast
line,
— —
— M—
—
N'ow draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J J, L L, M, O O, and I I also connect the pockets as from S S, R R, Q Q, and P P. Put in as many extra lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. Divide all the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them. This finishes the grade.
—
—
;
Now, beginning with through
all
points
Remove Continue
marked
the backpart,
mark the
—
—
centre
seam and bottom,
after
which prick
35.
and trace out the 35 backpart with the 34 pattern. same way with the 36, tracing it out with the 35 pattern.
the grade in
the
THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and sc>c, the side of tlie forepart
mark around
the lower part of the arm
and part of the bottom, after which prick through
all
35
Remove Continue
the grade and trace out with the 34 pattern. in the
same way, always tracing out. with the next smaller pattern.
places
marked
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
21.
51
M E RICA i\
A
GRADER
N
PA TTBR
The Double Grade How
from two
to grade stout vests
This grade
is
made from 38
patterns.
inches to 48 inches breast.
Place the backpart of a 38 inch breast waistcoat on a 48 inch back pattern with breast line on Mark the small pattern on the large one.
breast hne and centre seam to centre seam.
Draw
G—G
;
connecting
lines
also connect the
equal parts, and
all
—
A A, and divide
grading points as from
two armscyes as
at
D— D,
B — B, C—C, E — E, F— F,
and
the grading points
ten
all
into
number them.
THE FOREPART. Trace out the forepart of a 48 inch breast waistcoat on a paper; mark the breast and waist lines also the pockets.
Now on breast
place the forepart of a 38 inch breast waistcoat on
and front of armscye
line,
with breast line
forepart
the 48
Mark
to front of armscye.
small pattern on the large
the
one; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern.
Now and
I
—
I
Put
;
draw connecting
lines
many more
in as
Divide
all
— L—L, M — M, O— O, — P.
between the two foreparts as from J from S S, R R, Q Q, and P
—
also connect the pockets as lines as
you
—
like so as to
—
J,
ensure perfect uniformity.
the connecting lines into ten equal ])arts and
number them.
This finishes the
grade.
Now
beginning with the backpart.
Mark the centre seam and tottom, after which prick through Remove the grade and trace out the 39 backpart with the 38 Continue with the 40
in the
same way, tracing
it
all
points
marked
39.
pattern.
out with the 39 pattern.
THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of scye, the side of the forepart
marked
and part of the bottom,
after
which
prick
through
39.
Remove Continue
the grade and trace out with the 38 pattern. in the
same way, always tracing out with
the next smaller pattern.
tlie
all
arm
places
A
M ER
I
CA N P
ATT RRX GRADER
DIAGRAM
22
53
— AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
54
\~\oyv
to
Grade a DoubleBreasted
Two The double grade coats, except lines
L
from
Patterns
for the double breasted waistcoat
—V,
NA^aistcoat
which shows the centre of
is
made
the same as the other waist
lap.
Trace out the forepart of a 42 inch breast waistcoat on a paper
;
mark
the breast
and waist
lines, also the pockets.
Now place the forepart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on the 42 forepart with breast line on breast line, and front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large one also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. M, O O, Now draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J J, L L, and I I; also connect the pockets as from S S, R R, Q Q, and P P. Put in as many more lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. Divide all the connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them. This finishes the ;
—
—
—
—
— —
— M
—
grade.
Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of the armand part of the bottom, after which prick through all places marked
scye, the side of the forepart 35
Remove Continue
the grade and trace out with the 34 pattern. in the same way always tracing o.it with the next smaller pattern.
AM
E
h'
I
C
.1 .\
PATTER N GRADER
DIAGRAM
23.
55
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
56
How
to
Grade Trousers
These trousers are graded between 34 and 40
seat.
THE FOREPART.
—
B G on and centre line on centre line. If the trousers have no centre line, a centre line may be drawn in the following manner; Point E is half way between D and L and the double circle line is half way between B and G. Draw a line from E through the double circle. Now place centre line on centre line. Draw lines connecting the smallest with the largest pattern, as from A to A, I to I, B to B, C to C, D to D, L to L, K to K, G to G, J to J, and H to H. Divide all connecting lines into 6 equal part.s and number them. Place the forepart of a 34 size pattern on the forepart of a 40 pattern with lines
lines
B
—G,
THE BACKPART. Place the 34 backpart on the 40 backpart, keeping them even at the side seam. Connect points Q, R, S— S, O, M, N, T, U, P,
M—
W—W.
Divide
N—
O—
P—
Q—
If the side it
Now
as explained here, or
seams of the smallest and largest backparts are even, it if the side seams do not come out even
saves time, but
half and half the
it
same way
and so on
it
may
be graded half
is
best to grade in this
it
is
best to grade
them
marked 35 and
trace
as the foreparts are graded.
place the graded foreparts on a paper; prick through
out with a 34 pattern. Continue in the same
the 35 pattern
\'— V, and
connecting lines into 6 equal portions and number them.
all
The backpart may be graded either in the way and half in the same way as the forepart is. way because
T— U—
R—
way
pricking through
all
points
all
points
marked 36 and
them out with
trace
until finished.
THE BACKPART. Place the graded backpart on a piece of paper and trace all ]X)ints
marked 35 and
If the
forepart.
backpart
is
down
the side
out with the 34 pattern. graded half and half then it must be cut out trace
seam
;
prick through
it
in
the
same way
as the
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
24.
57
:
:
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER Block
5ÂŤ
How
and
Patterns
Them
Use
to
In the use of block patterns, the various attitudes are divided into three degrees, i.e., the shghtly erect, the erect and the overerect the slightly stooping, the stooping and the very stoop;
ing (the hunchback
is
not considered in the stooping class)
;
the slightly sloping, the sloping and
normal, the square and the high shoulder's. To meet these attitudes, use 34 inch for each degree in the following manner: For instance, if your order calls for a coat or a waistcoat for a slightly stooping figure,
the very sloping shoulders
means
;
that the scye depth
the.
is
to be lengthened
add
If the figure is described as stooping
amount from
J4 inch
to be left as
"^
it
it is.
and deduct the same
>4 inch to the scye depth
This makes the back part
the strap.
and the strap
inch longer than the forepart.
very stooping, add ys inch to the scye depth, and deduct the This makes }i inch difTerence between the back and forepart. the rule for the erect. If the figure is described as slightly erect, reduce the
If the figure is described as
same amount from the
The
reverse
%
scye depth
is
strap.
inch and leave the strap as
part
1/2
inch longer than the backpart.
is.
it
If erect, reduce the scye depth J4 inch
and add the same
to the strap,
which makes the foreinch, and add the
If overerect, reduce the scye depth
%
same to the strap, which again makes up three degrees. For the sloping shoulder, add ^4 inch to both scye depth, and strap for each degree, and for the square shoulders, reduce >4 inch from both scye depth and strap for each degree, of course the various heights must be considered, and these will be explained in connection with the proportion table on the first and second diagrams of How To Use Block Patterns.
DIAGRAM The measurements given
for
25
patterns are usually in the following
block
30 inches
Sleeve
Breast over vest
38 inches
Height
Waist
34 inches
Figure
Hip
40 inches
Shoulders
By
we
manner 31 inches
Coat length
4 inches
5 feet
Normal Normal
9
inches
measures as follows: Overshoulder
16
inches
Blade (actual)
17^ 11^
inches
Waist length Strap
I2j^ inches
To which add
i^
inches
consulting the proportion table,
Scye depth
find the short
Total Select a block pattern to correspond w^ith the breast
13
inches
inches
measure of your order and proceed as
follows
M
From is
to
B
is
the scye depth for a 38 breast, 5 feet 4 inches in height, plus }i inch, which
g}i inches.
Move the backpart down to B and keeping even at the centre seam, mark from B to D. From E to F is ^ the distance of A to B. Turn the back shoulder and mark from D to
F.
THE FOREPART. same as from A tp B.
From I to J and K to L are the From G to H is the same as from E to F on backpart. Move the pattern down, keeping it even at the front edge, and mark from the front shoulder and shape
from
H
to J
and
SLEEVES'DIAGRAM The
J to L.
Turn
finish.
26
sleeves are used as follows
Measure the upper part of the armscye from 6, which is the notch, to F, and from 5, which H in this case, the measure is gyi inches. Now select the sleeve to correspond with the pattern used, and draw a line from i (which
is
the front notch, to
is
the front notch) to
From
to 2
;
2.
gyi inches. Reshape the top of sleeve as per broken
Now ure
I
is
measure the width of back from 6
down
to 3, full length plus
Move
the pattern
up
to 3,
^
line.
to the centre seam, apply the
amount
to 2,
inch.
keeping
it
even at the front of sleeve and reshape.
and meas
/i
MERICAN PATTERN GRADER
59
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
(X,
DIAGRAM The measurements
27
follows:
are as
Full length
32>4 inches
Breast over vest
38
34 inches feet 6
Sleeve
inches
Height
Waist
34
inches
Figure
Hip
40
inches
Shoulders
By
consulting the proportion table,
we
Normal Normal measurements
find the short
as follows:
Scve depth
10
inches
Overshoulder
18^
Waist length
18
inches
Blade
1
Strap
133^ inches
Add
for
makeup
i>^ inches
Total
Measure from
M
to
A
from
to C.
Turn
13 inches
A, the scye depth, plus 3^ inch, which
From F to E is >^ the distance from A to Move the backpart up to A and keeping the back pattern and
inches
1>4 inches
is
10%
inches.
B.
the back pattern even at the centre seam,
mark from C
to
E
and
mark
finish.
THE FOREPART. K
same distance as from B to A. and keeping it even at front edge, mark from I to K Turn the front shoulder and shape it from I to G. inch less than C to E. The waist length and full length are measured From I to G is
From Move
J to I and L to the pattern up to
are the
K
;
%
out in the regular way.
THE SLEEVE'^^DIAGRAM Measure the upper part of armscye from 6
to E,
and
28
5 to G, in this case the
measure
is
9^
inches.
Now
take the same sleeve pattern and measure from
of sleeve from
Measure the back width from 6
down
to 3 for full length plus
Move
i
to 2, 9)4 inches.
Reshape the top
2.
the pattern
down
^
to 3,
to the centre seam.
Apply the amount
to 2
and measure
inch.
keeping
it
even
at the front
and reshape as per broken
line.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
6i
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
62
Block
Patterns
and
How
Them
Use
to
This will show how to change a pattern from a normal to an erect figure. must be classified into at least two degrees, i.e., the erect and overerect. For the erect figure the change is made as follows (see diagram 29)
The
erect figure
:
Shorten the back scye from 14 to 15, 16 to 17 and 18 to 19, say J4 inch. Raise the forepart or lengthen the strap from 22 to 23, 54 inch add the same ;
20 to 21 and from 24 to 25
The
overerect
whose back
is
The change 5.
is
small or is
;
reshape as per broken
the figure that not alone walks flat
and whose chest
therefore
made
%
inch from
lines.
erect
with shoulders thrown back, but
is full.
as follows (see
Reduce the backpart from 2 to i and 4 to 3, 8 to 7 and 10 to 9 reshape as per broken line.
^
Diagram 30) inch
;
:
also reduce the
same amount from 6
to
;
THE FOREPART. Reduce
"he side
seam of the forepart from 20
to 19
and 18
to 17, J4 inch.
This makes the
coat y2 inch smaller at the side.
^
Now add inch at the front edge of the forepart as from 16 to 15 all the way down; also add 34 inch from 14 to 13 and form 12 to 11 and reshape. Cut out a V at the gorge and finish.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
63
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
64
Block
Patterns
DIAGRAM
33
The Hunchback There
is
no
changing a pattern from a normal to a hunchback, for the reason
set rule for
that the largest part of the
hump
is
not always in the
centre of the back, but in a general
way
the pattern
same
neither
place,
may
be
fixed
as
is
always in the
it
follows:
measure and height. Split the backfrom A to B say ^ inch or i inch if the hump is very prominent, after which reduce the same amount from C to D and E to F and reshape to G. Select
the
part and open
pattern corresponding with the breast
it
as
THE FOREPART. H
Reduce the forepart from
and
to J
K
L
to
the
same amount
from C
as
to
D
on the
backpart.
Move
^
down
the pattern
inch less than
F
to
G
to points J
—L
and reshape as per broken
DIAGRAM Normal Reduce the backpart from
Move
the backpart
line.
down
Reduce the forepart from the pattern J to
H
is
down
^
J to
A
to
Figure,
B
^
to points
34
Square Shoulders
inch and from
B
—D
C
to
D
the same.
and reshape as from B
D
to
and
THE FOREPART. Move From
From
on backpart.
I
to J
to J
M
inch and from
—L and trace out
inch less than
D
to E.
;
K
to
L
also trace out
the same.
from
Finish as per broken
G
line.
to J.
D
to E.
M
is
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
65
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
66
DIAGPvAM
31
Figure Stcxjping, Shoulders
Normal
THE BACKPART. Add from A to B and C to D >4 inch. Move the backpart up to points B D and
â€”
trace out from
B
to
D
and
D
to L.
THE FOREPART. E to F and G to H J4 inch. Move the forepart down to F H, and trace out from J From F to J is Yi inch less than D to L. Reduce the forepart from
â€”
DIAGRAM
to
F
F to H
and
broken
line.
32
Stooping Figures with Flat Chest, Shoulders
Normal
THE BACKPART Add from A
to B,
C
to
D,
E
to F,
G
H
to
and
I
to J
'4
"ich and reshape as per broken
line.
THE FOREPART Add
to the side of
Reduce the forepart seams, which
is
JS
Reduce from
From
N
to
P
forepart at tlie
%
inch as from
front edge the
K
to L.
same amount that has been added
to
the side
inch.
M
to
N,
is
^
inch less than
O
to
P and R
D
to
to
Q
F on
34
inch.
backpart.
Reshape
as per
broken
line.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
67
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
68
DIAGRAM
35
Figure Erect, Shoulders Square
Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D Reduce the forepart from F to H ^ inch. From H to G on forepart is y& inch less thin
^
inch,
D
to
and reshape
E
to E.
on backpart; reshape
as per broken
line.
DIAGPvAM
36
Stooping Figure, Squaue Shoulder
These ing figure
figures are usually built with large blades flat
normal blade
chest), but the actual change for the is
made
and
flat chest.
(
stooping figure,
See diagram showing stoopsquare shoulders with the
as follows
Leave the backpart reshape from 5.
as
it
is
and reduce the forepart from
i
to 2
and 3 to
4,
>:4
or
^
inch and
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
69
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
70
DIAGRAM Normal
37
Figure, Sloping Shoulders
THE BACKPART. Add from B to A 5^ inch and from D to C the same. Move the backpart up to A C and reshape as to E.
—
THE FOREPART. Add from J to I 5^ Move the pattern up From
I to
G
is
inch and from
L
to
K
the same.
—K and reshape.
to I
fi inch less than
C
to E.
Finish as per broken
DIAGKAM
line.
38
Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect
THE BACKPART. Add
to the scye depth
^
inch from
A
to
B and C
to D.
Reshape as per broken
E.
THE FOREPART. Add
^
inch from
H
to J
and
F
to G.
Reshape as per broken
line to point
K.
line to
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
71
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
72
DIAGRAM
39
Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulders
THE BACKPART. Raise the backpart from C.
Reshape to
E
A
to
B and C
to
D ^
inch.
From B
to
D
is
the
same as
as per broken line.
THE FOREPART. Raise the forepart from
H
Add
G
y4 inch
from F
to
to
I
^4 i"ch.
and reshape as per broken
DIAGKAM How Add from D
to
Sweep from B
From B
to
C
Increase
to
E 34 inch for every C pivoting at A.
line.
40 the
Waist
inch addition to the waist.
to
is
5^ the
amount of from
D
to E.
Reshape as per broken hne.
A
to
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
73
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
74
DIAGRAM
How
41
Decrease the Waist Size
to
Reduce from D to E, % inch for every inch the waist Sweep from B to C pivoting at A. Advance from B to C the amount of D E.
^
Place the forepart to points
Add from F
to
G
the
H— E
to be reduced.
—
and reshape.
same amount as the front edge
DIAGRAM
How
is
to Exaggerate a
reduced at the bottom.
is
42
Coat from a Block Pattern
THE BACK. Mark around
the back
from
A
to
K
and from
K
down
to L.
Add from B to C ^ inch for every inch exaggeration, in this case yi inch From F to G is the same as B to C. From D to E is the same as B to C. Move the pattern, the side seam to touch at G C and E, and reshape.
for 2 inches.
—
THE FOREPART. Add from H to L on forepart From J to R and O to M are edge to touch at
R— I
and reshape.
the
the
same as from B same as from H
to to
C I.
on backpart.
Move
the pattern forwards, the front
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
75
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
7^
How
Make
to
DIAGRAM E>rop the gorge >4 inch at A. inches and from
Add from B to C 2j4 From E to G is I inch.
â€”G
Place the square to points F Reshape as per broken line.
Make
to
D
to
E
from
a
Pattern
SingleBreasted
How
Forepart
a DoubleBreasted
43
the same.
and square down to H.
a Norfolk Coat from an Ordinary
Sack Coat Pattern DIAGRAM After the pattern
is
44
cut out as usual, proceed as follows:
THE BACKPART. Point
F
is
half
way between
cut the back through as
same
E
and G; from E to A is i% inches; G to B is the same; a seam to the lower portion of the back and add the
now add
;
to the yoke.
The and J from
marked
;
I
forepart
from to
H to
D; add
is
made
in the
same way.
K
D
From
K
to J
is
i
inch;
I
is
half
way between
cut the pattern through as from is the same to J^ inch a seam to the lower part of the front and the same to the yoke..
C
is
;
;
C
to
I
H
and
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
77
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
78
DIAGRAM
How
to Increase the
45.
Waist Length
in
a Frock Coat
Apply the waist length desired as from O to B. From C to D is the same as from A to B. Move the back pattern down to D and reshape.
B—
THE SIDEBODY. From E to F and G to H are the same Move the sidebody down to F H and
—
as
from
A
to B.
reshape.
THE FOREPART. From Move
K
to L are the same as to H. J and the front pattern down to J L, keeping it even at the front edge
I to
—
G
and reshape.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
How
to
79
46.
Shorten the Waist of a
Frock Coat
Apply the waist length desired from O to B. From C to D is the same as from A to B. Move the backpart up to B D and reshape.
—
THE SIDEBODY. From E to F and G to H are the same as from Move the sidebody up to H F and reshape.
A
to B.
—
THE FOREPART. From Move
to L are the same as G to H. to J and L, keeping it even at the front edge and reshape. the front pattern up to J
I
K
—
8o
/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
47.
Frock Coat for Stooping Figure, Shoulders Normal THE BACKPART. Add from A to B and C to D >4 inch. Move the backpart up to points B D and
—
trace out from
D
B
to
to
F and F
and
D
to
J.
THE FOREPART. E to F and G to H J/4 inch. Move the forepart down to F H, and trace out from N From F to N is Yf, inch less than D to J.
Reduce the forepart from
—
to
H
broken
line.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
48.
Frock Coat for Stooping Figure with Flat Shoulders
Chest,
Normal
THE BACKPART. Add from A to B and C to D, ^4 inch. Add at E and F the same and reshape.
H
Add
%
Add
to the side of forepart
Reduce
inch at
G
and
THE SIDEBODY. at H and and THE FOREPART.
and the same
%
I,
reshape.
inch at J and K.
the forepart at the front edge the
seams which is j4 inch. Reduce from R to S and P to Q, 34 Reduce the same at T and reshape,
same amount
inch.
that
has been added to the side
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
49.
Frock Coat for Hunchback pattern corresponding with the breast measure and height. Split the backpart from A to B say fi inch or i inch if the hump is very prominent, after which reduce the same amount from C to D and E to F and reshape to G. the
Select
and open
it
as
THE FOREPART. Reduce from
From
K
to
L
H is
to J the same as C to the same as to J.
Place the pattern to points
From
J to
M
is
D
on backpart.
H
L â€”J
's inch less than
and trace out also trace out the shoulder from J to N. F to G on backpart. Reshape as per broken line. :
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
83
50.
Frock Coat for Over Erect Figure, Shoulders Normal THE BACKPART. Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D, K '"ch. Reduce at E and G Ys, inch and reshape as per broken
line.
THE SIDEBODY. Reduce Reduce
at
the
F and
19,
H
inch.
same amount from 19
to 20
and reshape.
THE FOREPART. Reduce the forepart at 16 and 21 Add from 12 to 13 and 15 to 14
Yg inch. J4
inch,
which
is
the
amount
the sidebody
forepart have been reduced.
Add from 6
to 7
and 8
to
9
%
inch and reshape as per broken
line.
and
side of
J
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
How
Make a Square
to
Shouldered
Out
Inverness
of a Kegular Overcoat Select an overcoat pattern of the size required
and proceed as follows:
THE BACKPART. Reduce the backpart from B
to
A
D
and
to
C
until the side
seam
is
straight.
THE FOREPART.
M to N and P to Extend the breast line
Add from
D
to C.
From
K
to
R
is
Square back from
and
finish.
to If
to J
is is
same amount as
the
the backpart
is
reduced from
B
to
A
and
as to U.
the sleeve length.
Sweep from R forward From S to T is I inch.
From G From G
Q
L
to
S and back
From
K
to
to
L
U, pivoting
is
at F.
3 inches.
and shape the armscye from G through H and back to O. Sweep from G to J, pivoting at H. inches. Draw a line from U to J. Add 34 inch rounding
'4 breast. I J/^
to line
Uâ€”
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
51.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
86
How How
Use Block
to
Make a Round
to
Patterns
Shouldered
Inverness
Out
of a Regular Overcoat Pattern Select an overcoat pattern of the size required
and proceed as follows:
THE BACKPART. From
A
to
B
1^4 inches.
is
Shape the backpart through B and the notch as
THE
indicated.
CAPE.
M
M
From E to is 3/2 breast. Draw a line from to and K. From N to O is iJ4 inches. inch. Shape the cape from AI through O and L to J. Now mark arotmd K to L is From E to P is the the pattern from J to T, around the gorge and down the front edge. Sweep from P forwards to R and back to Q, pivoting at T. From R to S is sleeve length. from
E
way between
M
Extend the breast
K.
Point
N
is
half
line
back.
M
I
inch.
Reshape as indicated.
THE FOREPART. G.
From E From C
to
F
to
D
is
3J2 inches.
on backpart
is
Square back from F to G. Shape the armscye from J to same as H to G on forepart. Notch the back at D.
the
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
52.
87
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
88
Cape
Circular Square down and out from B.
Take overcoat pattern of
A —C
;
pitch to touch as at point 4
forepart from 4 to
Point 24
%
the size required
is
i
;
mark around
and from
B
the back as
where the notch comes on the forepart
Reduce the cape
way between
pivoting at
O
;
from
A
from
at the front
and 24
C
to
;
E
edge at 24
from is
—D
A
to
to
Hne
with the back and shoulder
U
and from
U
to 4 and the
to 24.
i
inch and reduce the front shoulder from
lialf
and place the center of back pattern
place the forepart, the front edge to touch at line
A
C
to
Y^ inch
;
Z
i
—Z,
is
i
inch
;
add from
;
U
draw a
line
from
the length of the cape desired
to I
is
i
7 on the backpart
to
same; reshape as
to 25 the
inch
;
indicated.
A ;
to
24
;
point
sweep from C
reshape the cape and
finish.
O
is
to Z,
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
53
89
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
90
DIAGRAM
Shoulder
Cape
Select the overcoat pattern for the size desired
Draw it
as
from
54.
and proceed as follows
Aâ€” C; place the backpart pattern, the edge to touclv at A â€” C, and mark around A to D and D to E; line B is the breast line; from B to F is 14 breast; F to G is line
Yi breast
a line from D through G from A to C is the length of the cape desired sweep from H, pivoting at D; from H to I is 2^ inches; from I back to J is i inch; shape the side as indicated from D through E to J and shape the bottom of the cape from C to J.
Draw
C
to
;
;
:
;
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
91
55.
THE FOREPART. The
forepart
is
made
as follows
Place the forepart pattern on a sheet of paper and mark around it as indicated. to C is the same ; from D to breast from A to B is i inch ; From A to D is
%
A
;
C
is
the
same length as D to B; line E is the breast line; from E to O is i inch; O to F is 314 inches; to get J from F to G is >4 breast G to H is ^ breast draw a straight line from C through H to is i inch and from from J to K is I inch sweep from K to L, pivoting at P from L to N is the same; from P to B and C to K of the forepart is K inch more than D to J of the backShape the front of cape and finish as represented. part. ;
;
;
;
M
M
AM ERIC AX PATTERX GRADER
92
DIAGR^M
56.
Shoulders Normal. Figure Erect
THE BACKPART. Reduce the scye depth y^ inch from
A
to
B and C
to D.
Reshape as per broken
point E.
THE FOREPART. Add
^
inch from
H
to
G
and
F
to
J.
Reshape as per broken Hne to
J.
line to
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
57.
Flat Blade, Full Breast
THE BACKPART. Reduce from
A
to
B
>4 inch,
and reshape
as per broken line to E.
THE FOREPART. Add from O to Reduce from I
P
M
and and
to J
to
N^
K
to
L
inch.
>^ inch
and reshape
as per broken lines.
93
94
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
58.
Shoulders Square, Figure Erect
THE BACKPART. Reduce the scye depth
%
inch
from
A
to
B and C
to D.
Reshape as per broken Hne
THE FOREPART. Reduce yi inch from
G
to
H.
Reshape as per broken
line to point F.
to E.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
Shoulders Sloping,
95
59.
Figure
Erect
THE BACKPART. Add to
to the scye
depth Y^ inch from
B
to
A
and
D
to C.
Then reshape
E
THE FOREPART. Add
J4 inch
from
H
to G.
Then reshape as per broken
line to F.
as per broken lina
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
96
DIAGRAM
Stooping Figure,
60.
Normal Shoulders
THE BACKPART. Add from A to From B to D is
C
to
same
as
B, and the
D A
34 inch. to C.
Reshape to point E, as per broken
line.
THE FOREPART. Reduce the forepart from H to I, % inch. Add 34 inch from G to F, and reshape.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
6i.
Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulder
THE BACKPART. Add from A
to
B and C
to
D
^4 inch
and reshape
to E.
THE FOREPART. Add from G to F From H to F is
H
54 inch
and from
}i inch
more than from
Reshape as per broken
line.
I
to
the same.
D
to E.
97
A
q«
MHR
I
C
.•/
.V
PA TTERN
DIACRAM
GRADER
6:
Stooping Figure. Square Shoulders
THE BACKFART. Rctiuce the back from
From n
to
C
is
the
The ilistancc from
D
to
same as .\
to
C
A A is
V4 inch.
to B.
the
same as B
to D.
THE FORErART. From
1
1
to
I
is
'
.<
inch, rcshape as per
broken
line.
Roshapo.
A
A
MER
I
CA
N P
TTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
63.
Large Blade, Flat Breast
THE BACKPART. Add from G to H and I to J >$ inch. Add from E to F J^ inch and reshape
as per broken
line.
THE FOREPART. Reduce from
M
to
N
and
K
to
L
"/$
inch and reshape as per broken line.
99
AMERICAN PATTF.RN GRADER
DIAGRAM
A
64.
Vest for a Hunchback THE BACKrART.
Reduce from
A
to
B and E
Split the backpart as
from
to
C
F to
and rcshape as per broken line to G. and open it until the distance from C to D
inch,
:
H
is
i
inch.
THE FOREPART. Reduce the front shoulders from I
K
to
L
i
inch and reshape
to L.
From L
to J
is
yz inch
more than F
to G.
Reshape armscye.
it
as per broken line
from
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
How
Make a
to
Clerical
65.
Waistcoat Out o^ an
Ordinary Pattern Point
A
is
the shoukler point.
Place the square to the breast
line,
and square from
B
to E.
Square from B forward to C.
From B
to
C
is
J/^
breast plus
Shape the front edge from
From C to D B to F is ^
is
J/^
breast plus
breast.
inch.
J/$
C down.
Draw
J/2
incii.
a line from
F
to D,
and shape the gorge.
THE COLLAR. From Draw From Shape
D
to
H
is
a line from
J^ inch.
H through
to J is Y^ inch. the collar from J to
B
to get
L
I
H
and
finish,
making
the height of the
same
as desired.
AMERICAS PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
A
Clergyman's Waistcoat
Point
From
A A
is
the shoulder point.
to
B
is
^
GCy
to
Button on
the
Side
inch.
Place your square to the breast line and square from
P
to E.
%
Square forward from P> to C breast, ])lus lj^ inch. Reduce the front at G and J one seam or '^ inch, and shape the front edge from
C
to
].
L
to
K
From C to D is ^f, breast i)his ^ inch. H to F is >^ breast. Draw a line from F to D and shape the gorge. The collar is made the same as on the ordinary clergyman's vest. The piece for the button .stand is cut as follows; Follow the side of forciwrt. shoulder and armscye as indicated. From P> to K is I inch. L is I'i inches from the side seam. Cut the piece as from
and
finish.
piece.
The buttonholes
are cut in the forepart and
the
buttons are placed on the small
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
How
to
Make
67.
a Doubled Breasted Vest Out of a SingleBreasted Pattern
Go back from A to B >4 inch, and from E to D Draw a line from B through D to F. From C to J is 3 inches. F to G is V/a inches. Draw a line from J to G. From J to I is ^ inch.
G
to
H
is
103
the same.
Reshape the gorge and
finish the
bottom.
the same.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
104
DIAGRAM
How
to
Make a
68.
DoubleBreasted Dress Waistcoat
Out
of a SingleBreasted Block Pattern From Draw From
5 bade to. 4 is Jl inch. 7 back to 6 a line from 4 through 6 to get 10.
6
is 23/2
to
8
Draw From Draw
10 to 11
lines
5
is
i,'4
inches,
from 8 to
back to 3
is
inches.
and 8 11,
11 to 12
is )i
is
same.
inch.
^
inch. 9 is and from 9 to 12.
to
>^ breast.
a line from 2 through 3 down. Apply the opening measure plus yi inch from
I
tiie
A
to
B and
2 to 6; and the full length plus
;4 inches to 10.
Sweep from
reshape as mdicated. 10 to 12 and back, pivoting at 4, and
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
How
to
Make a
Dress Vest
From 6
to s is 3>^ inches. Place the bottom buttonhole at
69.
Out of a Regular
a line from
i
to 3
Pattern
u which •
5.
The
top buttonhole place at pomt
above the waist line. From 2 to 3 is Yb breast.
Draw
105
and shape the gorge.
4,
•
is
1/
/^
•
i. inch
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
]o6
DIAGRAM
How
to
Reduce the
70.
Rise; Also
How
to
Shorten or
Lengthen Trousers THE FRONTPART. from A to B as much as desired. From C to D is the same as from A to B. Move the pattern down to B D and measure 34 of waist from B
Reduce the
rise
—
Reduce the
rise
from
V
to
W
THE BACKPART. and X to Y the same as
How
to
the forepart
Shorten Trousers
Apply the inseam length from the crutch down to H. From E to F is the same as G to H. Move the pattern up to F H and reshape. From L to and J to K is half the distance of G to H.
—
M
THE BACKPART. From N to Q and O to P is the same as G to H on forepart. From S to T and R to U are the same as L to M on forepart. Move the back pattern up to P Q and reshape. To increase the rise and length proceed in the opposite way.
—
to
D.
is
reduced from
A
to B.
:
:
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
107
71.
Trousers The
by the seat measure, so
size of trousers is indicated
the pattern corresponding with the seat
To reduce
measure and
in
using block patterns always take
alter as follows
the waist
THE FRONT PARTS. From C
to
B
V
to
W
^
is
of waist measure,
i.
e.,
9 for 36 or 10 for 40; reshape as per solid
line.
THE BACKPART. From inch
V To
;4 waist plus 2^4 inches, reshape
is
as
per solid
line,
and take out
a
}i
as indicated.
reduce the knee
F From F Point
is
half
to
I
way between 34 of
is
H
and
knee desired.
J
F
to
G
is
the same; reshape as per broken
line.
THE BACKPART. Point
O
is
inch for seams.
To
half
O
way between
to
P
is
the
Q
same
;
and
S.
From O
to
R
is
reshape.
increase the size of knee proceed in the same manner.
4
of the knee desired plus Yz
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
io8
DIAGRAM
72.
Trousers The
size of trousers is indicated
by the seat measure, so
in using block patterns
always take
the pattern corresponding with the seat measure.
To
increase the waist, proceed as follows:
THE FRONTPARTS. way between
and
Point 9
is
From 9
to 5 is J^ of the full waist,
9 to 2
is
the same.
From Draw
5 to
half
6
a line
is
J< inch
from 2
3
4.
more than 4
to 6
^
i.
e.,
5
for 40.
to 5.
and reshape as per broken
line.
THE BACKPART. measure is only i or 2 inches larger than the waist measure, leave the and measure as follows: From 7 to 8 is J4 waist plus i inch for seams. Reshape.
If the seat
the backpart,
V
out of
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
How
109
73.
of a Normal
Make Peg Top Trousers Out
to
Block Pattern proceed as follows: Take a normal pattern with the scat measure corresponding, aiid knee measure required from After measuring and marking the proper lengths appl>' the
NtoE. from F, through E, to get point C, or add from B wanted, and shape from A through C and E down to F.
Draw
a line
to
C
u mch, or as much as ,
.
say
i
THE BACKPART. From
K
to
Shape from
L
G
same as through J and
is
the
H to E on forepart. L down to M.
D
to J
is
the
same
as
B
to
C
on forepart.
R
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADE
DIAGRAM
How
to
Make Trousers
74.
for a
Bow
Legged Person
Ascertain the amount the legs are together.
bowed by having the person stand with Measure as nearly as you can what space is between the knees and
his
feet
alter
close
your pat
tern as follows Split the
pattern as from
A
to
B and open
(see diagram
B) from C
to
D
J4 inch for
every inch space between the knees, straighten the inseam by filling it in slightly from E to F. Open the backpart from G to the same as the frontpart is opened from C to D.
H
:
A
MER
1
CA N FA
TT ER N
DIAGRAM
TOE
GRA
DER
75.
IN.
For a man whose toes point inward the crease of the trousers turns outward. alteration on the block pattern should be made as follows inch more or less as may be necessary, and reduce Add from 4 to 5 on the forepart say Reshape as from A to 3 and P. to 5. the same amount on the outside seam from 2 to 3. broken lines.
The
H
THE BACKPART. to the outside seam from 7 to 6 the same amount Reduce the same amount from 9 to 8 and reshape
Add 2 to
3.
as the forepart has been re.luced from as per
broken
lines.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
76.
TOE OUT. the
I"r)r
The Add
man whose
alteration
toes ixiint
outward the crease of the trousers
falls to the
inscam.
on the block pattern shoulfi be made as follows:
to the outside seam of forepart from 3 to 2, say }i inch, or as much as necessary. Reduce the same amount from 5 to 4 on the inscam and reshape as per broken line.
THE BACKPART. Reduce the outside seam of tiie backpart from 6 to 7, the same amount as the forepart is 2, add the same amount from 8 to 9 on the inseani and reshape as per
increased from 3 to
broken
lines.
//
M
PA T T
UICAN
II
DIAfjRAM
The
for broar]
facinfj
arc cut as
falls
RN C
fi
A'
.ID B
R
"3
78.
follows:
After the side pockets are marked and notclicd on the forepart, mark from
F
to II
is
2>i inches,
The narrow
falls
to J
II
Square back from
D
to
a line from
G
From K Cut
is
is
F
to
(i is
the same.
Shape
tin
C
D
to
to C.
to
!•"
is
2 inches.
]•'..
II
j^ hicli.
in the forepart
.\
from
II
to
K
is
the same.
to J is the
I) to F,
same,
lJi;iw a line I
(raw a
line
I'mm
irom
and fnish as represented.
I
(j iliroi]j4h
to
I.
to I)
i
incii.
lacing as indicated.
of forepart.,
From F
l*".
214 inches.
to I.
inch,
are cnt as follows:
D — F is the center From D to F is the same
Line
Draw
'^
is
Is
AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER
ii4
DIAGRAM
How
Make
to
79
Knickerbockers from a Regular
Trouser Pattern measure and proceed as follows:
Select a block pattern to correspond with the seat
THE FOREPART. Line
C
â€”
From C
D to E P
is
the knee length.
is
^J
D
to
is
M
is the same. J to the same.
inches.
2j/$
M to O
4 inches.
is
is
way between E and O.
half
9 is half way between B and H. Ehaw a line from 9 to P.
From P
to
to
R
is
8 to
L
is
P
N
34 of the calf measure.
is
the same. >4 of small of
knee measure, 8 to S
Draw a line from L to N. From S to T is I inch. R Draw a line from T to Q.
to
Q
H
is
1%
to I
^
is
B
inch.
Shape the forepart as
to
F
is
the same.
the same.
is
inches.
p>er solid line.
THE BACKPART. Line
ii^Y
From Draw From
Y
the knee length.
is
to 2
is
Y
to
from 2 and
Z on backpart
2 to 3 on backpart
O
to
N
on
Draw
W
2 to 7
23^ inches.
lines across
is
the
is
is
4 inches.
7.
the
same as
same
M
to
K
on forepart. as J to on forepart. 7 to 6 on backpart
L
a line from
X
.^
the
same
is J<t
inch.
L
to
T
on forepart and 3 to 4 on back
part.
Apply the
From
as
to 6.
Shape the inseam as indicated. Apply the small of knee measure plus i mch from to
is
forepart.
V
calf
to
U
measure plus is
I
'4
inches.
i
N to Q on forepart and 6 Shape the backpart and finish.
inch from
to 5
on backpart.
AM EPIC AN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
79.
"5
:
A
DIAGRAM
How
to
M
M ERI C A N PATTERN GRADER
Make Golf
80
Breeches Out of an Ordinary
Block Pattern Select a block pattern to correspond with the seat measure
â€”
C F is the knee line. From C to D is 5 inches. F
Line
D
way between
to
E
is
the same.
D
a line from
Point
to E.
H
is
half
Square up from H to locate J. J4 of knee measure. J to X is the same.
and E.
From J to M is From B to O is i^ inches. G to P is ^ From H to L is J/ inch. H to K is the From L to I is 34 bottom plus ^4 inch.
K
Draw
and proceed as follows
inch.
same.
K
to lo is the
same.
Cut out a
V
between
L
and
and shape the forepart as indicated.
THE BACKPART.
W
get
is 5 inches. From R to S to X is the same. Draw a line from X to W. Point T is half way between X and Q. From Q to 3 is ;4 of knee plus >< inch.
Q
to 2
is
the same.
From 4 to 5 is ij4 From T to U is 34 Cut out a
From
V
to
U Y
is
\V.
V to
inch.
between
Z
is
J4
the same.
8 to 9
inches.
T
to
V
is is
3^ inch and 6 to 7
the same.
U
and V as indicated. bottom plus inch.
%
Shape the backpart and
finish.
is
the same.
Square up from
T
to
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
80.
117
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
ii8
FIGURE
The Low Figure
on
A
shows a
fault
which
is
A.
Shoulder
caused by one shoulder being lower than the other, as seen
illustration.
side is tight over ^he hip, and the fulness therefrom is carried over to This not alone causes the low side to wrinkle under the arm, but also to
The coat on the low the high shoulder side.
make
the coat
How
hang
to
one
side.
to alter this defect, see
Ascertain the difference
in
Diagram A.
the shoulder heights and proceed as follows:
Let us say the difference between the high and the low shoulder is 3/^ inch. inch and reshape. Split the backpart as from A to D, overlap as from D to E,
^
THE FOREPART. Split the forepart as from B to G and overlap from between the high and the low shoulder.
The
alteration in the
frock coat (Diagram
body alongside of the backpart the same way as the sack coat.
in the
Ai)
same position
is
in
G
to F,
^
inch,
which
made in the same way. which they were cut, and
is
the difference
Place the sidesplit
and overlap
A
M ERl C A N
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
If tlie difference
(Diagram A2)
Move ,^
to 4 the
front
the hackpart
same amount.
shoulder as
Should
is
not
so great, alter
as follows
it
^
down
as from i to 2, or '/< inch, reduce the back shoulder from Alake the distance from 4 to 6 the same as from 3 to 5, leaving the
is.
this alteration be required
stri])ed material,
Lower
between the low and the high shoulder
:
make
when
the coat
the alteration as follows
the backpart as from
i
to 2
(
is
finished, or should the
Diagram A3 )
goods be of a
:
(as previously explained)
the difference between the
high and low shoulder, reduce the shoulder from 6 to 5 the same amount, from 5 to 7 the same length as the original backpart is from 6 to 8.
make
the backpart
THE FOREPART. Reduce the side of forepart from 3 to 4 the same amount as the backpart was reduced from I to 2. From 9 to .V is the same as from 3 to 4. I'lace the forepart pattern at points 4 A and reshape as per broken line.
â€”
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
Figures
B and B show
At the back
i
FIGURE
B.
the front and back o f the
and is too tight side seams, and shows a wrinkle under the collar. At the front the coat looks as if it were made button, and sticks out below the waist.
The cause of
How
the coat catches,
these defects
is
the back
is
same
Bi.
coat.
at the hip, wrinkles at the
for a fat
man;
it is
all
too large at the lower
too long for the foreparts.
Diagram B. We will now show how to make these alterations in detail. As the back shows a slight wrinkle under the collar, there must be to alter, see
slope, or a tightness over the shoulder pitch.
and 3
to
upper part of the
4 about
^
inch and leave point S as
We it
will therefore is.
too
much
shoulder
reduce the backpart from
i
to 2
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
123
m
We
will
As
the coat
now
considei; the forepart. is
there
shows that the tightness at the hip is were transferred to the side, the hip; therefore, the proper alteration is to swing the forepart
too large in front below the waist,
only caused by a poor balance,
would be no tightness
at
i.
e.,
if
it
the fulness of the front edge
so as to bring the front fulness to the side. To do this, proceed as follows:
Should there be any tightness at the first button, all that is necessary is to crook and raise Diagram B i, broken line) about J^ inch. But if the first button is right, then make the alteration as shown on Diagram B. Raise the shoulder from 9 to 8 and 7 to 6 about 34 inch, and drop the backpart from 14 the same as the back is lowered to 15 the same amount; lengthen the forepart from 13 to 12
â€”
the shoulder (see
from 14
to 15,
which
is
"4 inch.
124
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
C.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
Figure
C.
shoe" wrinkles. is called the '"horse the back of a sack, coat, with what for the forepart. caused by the backpart being too short
C shows
This defect
is
^rrc^'r
::dSM:;s^een.
to be all
ri^U there
is
nothing to be done except to
'^ t ':^. ^o^: ^r: tt ^7^x3.0. poi. backus
125
nled
up the shoulder will becon^e a
3 about 14 inch.
Lengthen the back from 6
to
little
3
.p
.
poi.
. Aft. t.
fron. too loose, so reduce the shoulder
'"ch. 7. 3^
i
to
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
126
FIGURE
FIGURE
D.
Di.
FIGURES D and DI Defect—^The
wrinkles at the back of the neck, as illustrated by Figures D and Di arise from entirely different causes, as will be seen. See Figure D. Cause The collar is just right for height; yet there is a surplus amount of cloth between the shoulderpitch and the neck, which shows that there is too much back length from the shoulderpitch up; and yet, if the back scye were too deep, the backpart would drop and show a wTinkle at the back of the armscye; but as such is not so in this case, then the coat is too tight at the shoulderpitch and must be altered as follows. (See Diagram D.) To alter— Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D, say, '/z inch, reshape as p>er broken line to E, make the back slightly wider at F, so as to retain the shoulder width, and
—
let
out the front shoulder as from
Di
H
to G, say
— In this case the wrinkle
%
inch.
from the preceding, and shows that it is caused by the stretching of the collar stand from the fact that the collar lacks in height the same amount tliat the wrinkle takes up. Fig.
is
different
The collar stand, as cut and after the seam is sewed up, will fit to the back as on Figure Diagram D2; but when the stand is stretched, it becomes rounder than the back will allow (see Diagram Di), and thus forces the back away from its proper place and leaves a wrinkle underpeath.
To
alter
— So,
in
order to
fix this
wrinkle, put in a
new
collar a>td don't stretch the stand.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
Di.
DIAGRAM
127
D2.
128
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
E.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
129
E.
The cause of this defect is that the Diagram E. Sweep from B to C pivoting at A; make the distance from B to C K' inch, or as much as is necessary. Lower the gorge from F to G the same amount as from B to C. From C to D is the same length as from B to E. Reshape as per broken line. Figure
shoulder
is
E shows
a coat
too crooked.
that flares out at the lapel.
How
to alter, see
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
I30
FIGURE
F"igure
F shows
a coat that has too
F.
much overlap
at the front.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
diagra:\i
How
to alter, see
Diagram
131
f.
F.
Should the coat have one inch too much overlap, straijjhten the shoulder jS inch, as frooi A to B, which is half of the excess overlap. Reduce from E to F, C to D, I to J and G to H the same amount.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
132
FIGURE
Figure
some
("i
G.
slunvs a fault that has been very cuiniuoii lately, and for the want of a better name,
cutters call
it
"carbuncles."
These wrinkles are caused by the stretching of the front shoukler without adding extra height to the shoulder pitch.
The
is not good at any time and is positively bad on striped no matter how careful you are, you cannot keep the stripe straight but if the But in stretched and the shoulder pitch made higher, these wrinkles would disappear. c. straighten stretch the gorge, it is necessary to first advance the shoulder point,
stretching of the front .shoulder
materials, for
gorge
is
order to
the shoulder.
;
/.
1
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
This change
garment
is
may
be
made
in the pattern
133
G.
before the coat
is
cut,
or as an alteration after the
finished.
To alter see Diagram G. Raise the shoulder pitch from 8 to 9 about }i inch straighten the shoulder as from 10 to half that amount make the length from 7 to 1 1 the same as from 7 to 10 and reshape. ;
;
1
134
,/
M ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
FIGURE
H.
Alterations
and
How
to
Hi.
Make Them
Fault: Coat wrinkles across the back under the collar and at the front shoulders. fault
is
more common
turndown
On
in the
summer
time, as at
that
This
season of the year most people wear
and no waistcoats.
collars
away from the collar band, and vacuum between the shirt and the outer edge of the collar. Therefore, when a coat is put on over a collar of that kind, especially when no waistcoat is worn, the coat collar cannot come close to the neck, because the shirt collar keeps it away and the turndown collar, the outer leaf invariably sticks
leaves a
causes the wrinkle. Naturally,
if
a waistcoat was worn the wrinkle might
ders of the waistcoat would act as a pad (so to speak)
still
be there, but the back and shoul
filling
the
vacuum, and minimizing the
wrinkle.
But the actual cause of the trouble is that the backscye is too deep, and in measuring for a coat, the scye depth should begin just where the collar edge ends. If an alteration is to be made on a garment of that kind it should be made as follows: Shorten the scye depth as from i to 2 and 3 to 4 (Diagram II) say half an inch, more or
summer
less,
according to the size of the wrinkle. tight shoulder will often make a wrinkle across the back,
A
in
which case leave out the front
shoulder, as from 5 to 6, and reshape as per broken lines. In case there is no outlet on the shoulder, make your alteration as in the scve depth from
i
to 2
and 3 to
same, and reshape as per solid
4, half
lines.
Diagram Hi.
Shorten
an inch, shorten the front shoulder from 6
to 7 the
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
135
136
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
I.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
this
137
I.
over the breast. Figure I shows a coat with what some tailors consider too much fold how to reduce While we do not consider this a fault, yet we have so many inquiries as to fold, that we herewith show how to make the alteration. Diagram I shows how the alteration is to be made. to D the same and Pare out the armscye from B to A, say 'A inch reduce the side seam C ;
reshape as per broken
line.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
1.^8
FIGURE
J.
FIGURE
J
I.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
J
DIAGRAM
I.
FIGURE Fault—This
Cause—It
sleeve wrinkles
has too
much
139
J.
Jl
from the top of the undersleeve upwards.
sleeve head.
,.
a from i to 2, say /^ inch, and alter(See Diagram Ji)Reduce the sleeve head the same amount as the to from undersleeve 4 3 the Reduce reshape as per broken line. upper sleeve and reshape.
How
.
.
to
FaultThe Cause—The
draws in long folds from the sleeve head is too short.
sleeve
DIAGRAM
sleeve
head down, both front and back.
J
as per to D, say /a inch, and reshape How to alterReduce the sleeve from A to B and C reshape. E to F the same amcmt and and H to G from sleeve under Reduce the broken hue mch. I to J the same, /^ Lengthen the sleeve from K to L and
I40
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
K.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
141
K.
K
shows two defects. coat shows a wrinkle under the collar. well Secondâ€” It shows a slight wrinkle on the side seam and does not drape
Figure Pirst
â€”The
The cause of
How
defect
this
to alter, see
to
D
From E
to
F
is is
the
A
to
same as
A
B and C
J4 the distance of
H
K
as indicated.
at the bottom.
too long. to
D
>^ inch
more or
may
less as
be necessary.
to C.
Reshape the back as per broken is The shoulder from G to
and
is
Diagram K.
Shorten the back from
From B
the back
is
H
A
to B.
line.
inch less than
D
^,
to F.
.
,
Shrmk
^ u . t the backpart between J ,
,
142
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
I'fGLRE
L.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
143
L.
FIGURE L Fault
—The backpart wrinkles the —The backpart too short for the at
Cause
is
sides.
forepart.
DIAGKAM How
to
alter— Cut the backpart down from
backpart up to point
A
A
L to B, say yi
of forepart, reduce forepart from
C
to
D as
inch,
and move point B of
much
as necessary.
144
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE M.
A
MnR
PATTERN GRADER
N
CA
I
DIAGRAM
FIGURE Fault
—Too
Cause
—A
imicli
lap at the breast
and not
M.
M
cn(Pii,i,'li
crooked shoulder.
DIAGRAM Mow
to alter
— Sweei)
.Vdvance from
A
Drop, the gorge from
From B
to
E
is
from
the
C
to
same
Reshape as per broken
to
.\
^
to R, say
1!.
inch.
D as
line,
J^
A
inch.
to F,
pivoting at
M (1
at
the bottom.
145
â€¢46
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
N.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
The
fault
shown on Figure
N
is
one that
wise faultless garments have this defect. pulled down, the collar sets
gradually slide
backpart
How
is
up well and
down and show
is
When
147
N.
frequently seen on overcoats, and many otherthe garment is first put on and the undercoat
close to the neck,
the collar of the undercoat.
but after a
The
little
while
cause of this defect
seems
it
is
to
that the
too short.
to alter (see
Diagram N).
Lengthen the back from A to From G to F on forepart is /. inch
B and C
to
D
than
D
to
less
say /. inch, more or less as may be necessary. on backpart. Reshape as per broken line.
H
.AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
14S
FIGURE O
Fault— The coat wrinkles at the The backpart is too short How to alter (see Diaeram O)
Cause
—
sides
and hangs away from the
for the forepart.
waist.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
140
Oi.
on the top of back, leave out from A to B and C to D, say, }i ought to be the same as from A to C, which would bring it as to E, but as there never is any outlet on the back shoulder, make the width from B to D wide as you can. If the backpart is much too short, the front shoulder ought to be somewhat If there
inch.
The
is
sufficient outlet
distance from
B
to
D
shortened, but as in this case the backpart from
shoulder as
it
is,
Another way waist from
and the to
result will be the
make
A
same
to if
this alteration is as follows
to B, say, J4 inch; bring point as much as necessary. sidebodv from C to
D
B
as
B
to
D
is
somewhat too narrow, leave
the front
the front shoulder were shortened. (see
Diagram Oi) Lengthen the back side seam and leave out the
F; baste up the
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
F.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
>5'
P.
FIGURE P Fault—The coat wrinkles under the collar and down the sides. The center vent opens. The backpart is too long for the forepart. How to alter (see Diagram P)— Shorten the back from A to E and C to D, say '/2 inch. Lengthen the front shoulder from F to G and H to J, say 5^ inch, or as much as necessary. Cause
—
152
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
Q.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
Fat Man's
—The —The
hangs close to the sides and
Fault
skirt
skirt is too short at the front.
How
to alter
— See
B
to C.
Frock
flares at the front.
Diagram Q.
Shorten the skirt from solid to point A.
Q.
DoubleBreasted
Cause
153
Lengthen the
skirt
line
from
B
E
to
broken
to F, the
line C,
say
same amount
'/i
as
inch or J^ inch and reshape it
has been shortened from
1
54
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
R.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
Figure
R
155
R.
shows the back skirts overlapping in which case alter, as on Diagram R. 2 to 3 is >< the distance the skirts overlap, say }i inch if the overlap is i^ inches. Reduce the skirts, beginning with nothing at the point of sidebody, and shape gradually as
From
I>er
broken
line 3.
;
AM ERICA \ PATTERN GRADER
k6
Figwres
S and Si
are the back and front view of the same coat.
slanting upwards, and on the back —Wrinkles on the forepart from the open the back. slanting downwards, and the too long for the The cause —The fronts are too short for the backpart, or the backpart one and the same which understood when say the fronts are too short for the — Let me be How
The
^ides
fault is
skirts
at
is
is
fronts,
is
to alter
fault.
plainly
I
do not mean to say they are too short in the length, on the contrary, they may be full k^ng. and yet too short to balance with the back .\s there are se\eral ways to alter this fault I «ill here give three diagrams showing three
back.
I
different
ways
to alter it
If the fronts are long
enough for proper length,
alter as follows:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGR.A.M
S.
DIAGILAM
DIAGRAM Reduce the back from
From E broken
to
F
Âť57
reduce
A 1/2
to
B and C
the amount,
to D,
say
S2.
S
^
inch or J4 inch.
widen the back
slightly
at
F,
and reshape as per
line.
DIAGPvAM
SI
on Diagram Si. and 4 to 5, say J4 Jnch, to 7, and 10 to 9, say 54 inch, and resh^)e as per broken
If the fronts are too short for proper length alter as
Reduce the back from 2 Let out the outlet from 8 This alteration It
outlet
will
to 3
require a
new
sometimes happens that there on the shoulder, in which case
is
no more goods for a new on Diagram S2.
collar,
or that there
is
no
alter as
DIAGKAM ^
S2
Lei^hen the fronts from inch. Cut down the armscye from F to G, say >4 or and K to L, to X, and O to P, the same amount and resh^)e as per broken line.
M
iine.
collar.
H
to J
158
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
T.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
DIAGKAM Fault
—The
159
T.
T
skirts flare at the front edge.
T. alter—If the pleats are right, and do not overlap, alter as on Diagram and reshape as per Reduce the skirt at the waist seam as from 2 to 3, Vs or /^ inch,
How broken
to
line.
AMERICAN PATTER
i6o
A'
GRADER
FIGURE
FIGURE
Fault
—The —The
Cause
How
collar
is
Ui.
U.
too loose does not
shoulder
is
—There
are
come
close to the shirt collar.
too tight at the pitch.
two ways to make this alteration. and the armscye a little close make the alteration as on Diagram U. This will let the coat come Just raise or loosen the shoulder as from A to B, say yi inch. down to its proper place and leave the collar closer. If the collar is loose and the armscye is easy and deep enough, make your alteration as on Diagram Ui. Straighten the shoulder as from to alter
If the looseness is slight,
D
much as necessary. Make the length from G to C the same as from G From C to E is the same as from D to F.
to C, say J^ inch or as
Reshape as per broken
line.
to D.
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
I
i.
i6i
U.
Figure U does not alone show a looseness in the collar, but also a faHing away of the collar from the neck, which does not alone necessitate the straightening of the shoulder as on Diagram Ui, but also the crooking of the collar See Diagram U. From C to E should be the full width of collar stand, which is i% inches, and should be
made
as follows
Draw a line from the lapel break F through E to G. From G to K is 134 inches. From E to G is the same as the top width of back; shape
as per broken line.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
l62
DIAGRAM
V.
FIGUKE V Faultâ€” The
vest
even too large at the
is
too tight across the
sides.
A
front
vest of this kind
is
of
breast.
It
may
be
large
also apt to be too loose or to stick
enough or
away from
the body at the bottom button.
How One
to alter
â€” See
alteration will
Diagram V. remedy both
defects:
Unbutton the vest all but the bottom button and see what the distance is between the upper button and buttonhole. Say the distance is i inch, now crook the shoulder as from A to B half of that amount, t. e., yi inch, and reduce the backpart from C to D the same.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
163
DIAGRAM W. FIGURE FaultThis
vest flares at the opening
S:^;;^^^t ':T:::^ necessary. }i inch as may be as you have advanced
amount
and
is
W too loose at the upper buttons.
. conar the
Shorten the strap 74
from
A
to B.
o.^ th.^
ui /.
to
^
is
to stretch the
^^y.
164
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
DIAGRAM
X.
X.
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
i6s
DIAGRAM
Xi.
X2.
e., the vest is too low at the back of the neck, Fault: Figure X shows a very common fault, and does not cover the collar button. scye depth may be too short. Cause: There are several causes for such a fault: (i) The i.
(2)
The
the vest
may be too long for the scye depth. (3) not high enough at the back of neck, there
also happens sometimes that while a wrinkle across the back part 2 or 3
It
strap is
is
inches below the neck.
How
We
to alter
will treat
If the first
each cause separately. the reason and the vest length
is
(See Diagram X.)
and from
to 2,
E
Raise the backpart from
to F.
Measure
the distance
A
is
just right,
to B,
from
A
and to
C
to
make
D
i
the alteration as follows: inch,
C and from B
to
add the same from C D; the distance from
from H to G on forepart., the difficulty from the second cause the same alteration will remedy in which case leave the backpart as it is and excepting where the vest can stand being shortened, (See Diagram Xi.) .shorten the strap. and if the backpart has a wrinkle across Should the third cause be responsible for the defect, low in the neck, proceed as on Diasomewhere between the neck and scye depth and still is too or ^ inch. Reduce the same from K to gram X2. Advance the shoulder point from I to I /^
B
to
D
is
now
slightly increased, so reduce the increase
If the trouble arises
I.
as per
broken
line.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
i66
FIGURE
DIAGRAM Fault
— The
Y.
Y.
vest back wrinkles below the neck.
Cause
—The
How
to alter
is too long from the shoulder pitch up. Diagram Y). Reduce the back from A to B and C to D, say Yz inch and reshape as per broken line to E. Measure the back shoulder from C to E and from D to E and whatever difference there is, reduce the same amount from F to G on forepart.
vest back
— (See
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE
The
fault of the trousers herein
When
the
man
ness at the crotch at the knee,
;
DIAGRAM
Z.
shown
is
when
the knee
is
Z.
one frequently seen.
stands straight, the trousers hang well and
but
167
fall
straight with very
little
ful
bent as in walking or sitting down, the forepart catches
drawing wrinkles from the crotch downward, at the same time causing the forepart bend of the ankle and the backpart to stick away at the heel
to be held tight in the front at the
The cause of The backpart
when such
We
know
that
it
is
every cutter's desire to cut trousers
little
more apt to occur. Diagram Z. Reduce the backpart from C to O, say draw add from A to B the same.
How
the
cut too straight.
is
or no surplus length at the back crotch, but there is a limit to straight trouespecially when the goods happens to be a hard worsted or any hard woven material,
that will have sers,
this defect is:
a defect
is
to alter, see
i
inch, or as
;
Raise J^ inch at
O
an
1
reshape as per broken
line.
much
as you think necessary to relieve
i68
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURE AA.
/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
169
AA.
Fat Man's Trousers FIGURE
AA
—The trousers wrinkle and seem to draw —Too much waist and stomach. How to — (See Diagram AA). Fault
at the fly
below the stomach.
Cause
alter
By
too
much
waist
we do
not
in distributing the cloth the front
C
to
D
5^ inch, reduce from
E
to
mean
that the trousers are too large at the waist, but that
F
the
backpart the same amount as the front
much of
Therefore reduce the waist from and reshape. Add from B to A on reduced from C to D.
has got too
same as is
C
to
D
it.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
170
FIGURE
BB.
FIGURE BB Fault— The crease of the trousers turns The cause may be in cutting or
Cause
—
to the inseam.
in the making. kind happens often the cause is in the cutting, in which case reduce the backpart as from 9 to 10, or inch and advance the same amount from 6 to 12.
If a fault of this
^
^
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM But
it
If the
happens once forepart
is
in
a while that the fault
stretched between 2 and
10
171
BB.
is
the tailor's.
more thar
For instance:
the inseam between 3 and 8. the
Sometimes the notches do not meet, in which case the alteration from what cause, if you drop the notch on the backpart as from 4 to 5 and make the forepart notch meet it, the crease will fall to the center. In moving the notch down reduce the backpart from 13 to 14 the same amount as the notch has been moved down and add the same from 12 to 7. crease will is
fall to
the inseam.
simple, but no matter
172
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
FIGURES CC
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
DIAGRAM
Figures
on what
is
C C show
called a back
front parts too short.
the
bow.
How
front and back of the
The cause of to alter, see
173
CC.
same
this defect
Diagram C
trousers.
is
This fault can often be seen
the backparts are too long and the
C.
THE FOREPART. Reduce and raise the forepart from D to C, say >4 inch each way, and add amount from B to A. Reshape as per broken line.
the
same
THE BACKPART. Reduce the
seam of the backpart from N to M about i inch, and leave out the outlet to K the same amount. Leave out from I to J, say yi inch, and from G Reduce the same amount from E to F and reshape as per broken line.
side
on the inseam from to
H
the same.
L
:
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
174
A 16
DIAGRAM
FIGURE DD.
DD.
—The trousers wrinkle front of crotch. —This sometimes caused by the forepart being stretched on the inseam. in
Fault
Cause
is
Some
trouser makers have a habit of stretching the inseam while shrinking the backpart, seams are sewed up, which is decidedly wrong, for while the inseam of the backpart must be stretched between the knee and the crotch, yet it must be done before the seams are sewed up, so that the inseam of the forepart will not stretch. How to alter To remedy this defect is easy, all that is necessary is to rip the inseam, press the forepart straight and sew it up again. Sometimes, however, this defect is caused by the inseam being too long in which case see after the
—
Diagram DD.
To
avoid such a defect
— In D
cutting the trousers advance the line from
A
to
B
>^ or
.)4
same amount, cut the backpart accordingly, that shortens the If, however, the trousers are finished and from A to B cannot be advanced, there inseam. being no outlet on the forepart, make your alteration as follows Let out the outlet on the backpart from E to F, say i inch, and take in the same amount on inch and reduce from
the outside seam.
C
to
the
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER Instructions for Tailoring
175
Coats
In order to be a successful cutter, the first thing necessary is to work in harmony with your tailors. It is not essential to have the best tailors, for every tailoring house can't have the best trade, but, no matter how good a tailor a man may be he must look to his It is the cutter who is held responsible by the firm for the good cutter for instructions. or bad garment produced, and so it naturallyfollows that his instructions must be followed.
The indiscriminate stretching of shoulders or gorge by good coat makers has done more produce bad garments than many cutters are aware of, and the drawing in and shrinking of armholes for chest eflFect where no provision for such work has been made has killed many a job. In the back shops, where many good coat makers come together and where work of a highclass is made, the best coat maker is looked up to for pointers as to how stylish garments ought to be made, and, as it is every coat maker's ambition to be considered as good or better than the best, he will not alone follow the good man, but go him one better. That is, if it is good to stretch the shoulder seam a little, it is better to stretch it much, at the same time forgetting the old story, "That what will cure an Irishman to
may
kill
a Dutchman."
The proper way to make a coat depends upon the way the coat is cut. We have now what is known among cutters as three kinds of shoulders, viz. the straight, the crooked and the normal shoulder, each of which requires manipulation of its own to produce the proper efifect. To make myself more clearly understood I must explain where the crooked shoulder begins and where the straight shoulder ends. To the average cutter's judgment a crooked shoulder is one wjiere the distance from the line in front of the armscye to the ;
shoulder point
is
less
measures more than the breast and waist coat.
at
%
and a straight shoulder is one that That is true providing the front edge are on a square with the breast line on the normal
than
%
of the breast measure,
of breast.
(See Diagram AA.)
%
of breast
is
therefore normal.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
176
However, should the distance from the same line in front of the armscye to the shoulder point be >4 inch less than Yt of the breast measure, and the waist at the front edge extend 3^ inch in front of the breast line, (see Diagram BB) then the shoulder is not crooked but normal.
Diagram
CC
a copy of
Diagram
BB
with an imaginary breast line squared back by squaring up from the present breast line in front of the armscye and measuring from that line to the shoulder point the distance will be Yd of the breast measure and the shoulder is therefore not crooked. the front edge.
is
(See broken
line.)
By
way; on the normal figure, where the distance from the armscye to the shoulder point is Yb breast, plus i inch, and the waist point recedes i inch from the line squared down from the breast, Csee Diagram DD), the shoulder is not straight but normal. Now let us consider the shoulder from the present
The same
line
in
front
is
true the other
of the
point of view.
now proceed to explain how coats ought to be made up; As the greater part makings up of coats are known to every tailor, I will explain only those points which e., the shoulders, collars, sleeves, chest deal with the vital fitting points and artistic lines, effect and the front edges. I
will
of the
/.
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
The Crooked The
177
Shoulder
must not have the chest worked in from the armmust be worked in from the front edge. At the armscye the canvas must be The overshoulder must have no extra additions except for cut and the armscye stretched. the seams. The high shoulder is produced by the stretching of the armscye. The upper sleeve may be cut J4 inch larger than the armscye because the stretching of the armscye scye
;
coat with the crooked shoulder
the chest
requires a larger upper sleeve. The collar may be put in easy at the hollow of the gorge, but not too long, and must be shrunk in at the crease. This kind of a coat used to be made by almost every tailor some years ago, and is still made by some tailors now. The coat with a normal shoulder must be made up as follows: The chest is worked in slightly from the armscye and the rest from the front edge. The shoulder seam of the forepart must not be stretched unless extra height is given to the shoulder pitch, the collar is put in longer than in the coat with a crookedshoulder and is also slightly shrunk in at the crease. The armscye must not be stretched and the sleeve, which is cut to measure, is put in in
the usual way.
The Coat With The The manipulations
of this coat
Straight Shoulder
depends upon how straight the shoulder
is cut.
Let us
yi of breastplus yi inch from in front of the armscye. The to be raised the same amount in height as the shoulder is straightened, in
assume that the shoulder point
is
shoulder ought which case the manipulations are as follows: The front of the armscye should be drawn The gorge may be slightly stretched, but if not stretched at all and in and shrunk yi inch. the collar is put in full long it is just as good. The canvas must have a }i inch V cut out from in front of the armscye, and a J4 inch short V set in at the shoulder near the gorge. The upper sleeve may be slightly reduced in width, especially if the material is worsted, and may be raised ^ to ^ inch if the shoulder is narrow. The front edges must not be worked in much at the breast, and at the lowei part of the edge the stay tape must be put The collar crease must not be in short enough to prevent the edge from being stretched. shrunk in. Keep the crease straight.
—
—
.
—
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
J78
Index Page 4
Introduction Preface Table of Proportions for Boys and Youths Table of Proportions for Men Table of Proportions for Short Measures
....'...
5
6 7
8
GRADING.
How How
Grade a Sack Coat from a Single Pattern from a Single Pattern {continued) Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern {continued) to Grade a DoubleBreasted Sack Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Frock Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Stout Frock Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a DoubleBreasted Frock Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Dress Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Dress Waistcoat from a Single Pattern.... r Double Grading: SingleBreasted Sack Coat Double Grading: SingleBreasted Stout Sack Coat Double Grading: DoubleBreasted Sack Coat How to Make a Double Grade for a Frock Coat How to Make a Double G/ade for a Stout Frock Coat How to Make a Double Grade for a DoubleBreasted Frock Coat How to Make a Double Grade for a Dress Coat
How How How
to
9
to Grade a Sack Coat
12
to
14 16 18
20 24 26 28 30 32
34 3f>
38
40 42
44 46
The Sleeve
How
to
Grade Collars
The Double Grade The Double Grade: The Double Grade: :
How
to
How How How
Grade Vests from Two Patterns to Grade Stout Vests from Two Patterns to Grade a DoubleBreasted Vest from Two Patterns.. to
Grade Trousers
BLOCK PATTERNS AND How to Use Them How to Use Them Change a Normal Pattern from Change a Normal Pattern from
Block Patterns and Block Patterns and
How How
to
to
Normal
HOW TO
{continued) a a
Normal Normal
58 60 62
.
for a
54 S6
USE THEM.
to an Erect Figure
Square Shoulders Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders Stooping Figure, with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal Figure Erect, Shoulders Square Figure Stooping, Shoulders Square Figure Normal, Shoulders Sloping Figure Erect, Shoulders Sloping ... Figure Stooping, Shoulders Sloping How to Increase the Waist How to Decrease the Waist
48 50 52
64 64 "°
Hunchback
Figure,
^ i
°° 68 70 7" 72 ^^ 74
—
1
AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER
179
IndeX^" (Continued) Page
How How How How How
Exaggerate a Coat from a Block Pattern to Make a DoubleBreasted Forepart from a SingleBreasted Pattern to Make a Norfolk Coat from an Ordinary Sack Coat Pattern to Increase the Waist Length in a Frock Coat to Shorten the Waist Length in a Frock Coat Frock Coat for Stooping Figure, Shoulders Normal Frock Coat for Stooping Figure with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal Frock Coat for Hunchback Frock Coat for OverErect Figure, Shoulders Normal How to Make a SquareShouldered Inverness Out of a Regular Overcoat How to Make a RoundShouldered Inverness Out of a Regular Overcoat Pattern to
How How How
to
to to
Make Make Make
Cape a Shoulder Cape a Shoulder Cape
a Circular
74 76 76
78 79 80 81
82 83 84
86 88 9°
(^contwucd)
91
BLOCK PATTERNS FOR WAISTCOATS AND HOW TO USE THEM. Shoulders Normal, Figure Erect Flat Blade, Full Breast Shoulders Square, Figure Erect Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulders Stooping Figure, Square Shoulders Large Blade, Flat Breast A Vest for a Hunchback How to Make a Clerical Waistcoat Out of an Ordinary Pattern A Clergyman's Waistcoat to Button on the Side How to Make a DoubleBreasted Vest Out of a SingleBreasted Pattern How to Make a DoubleBreasted Dress Waistcoat Out of a SingleBreasted Block •
,•
to
Make
93 94 95 9^ 97
98 99 100 loi
I03 103
'04
Pattern
How
•
9
lOS
a Dress Vest Out of a Reguular Pattern
BLOCK PATTERNS FOR TROUSERS AND HOW TO USE THEM. How How How How How How How How How How How
to to to to to
to to
to to to
to
Reduce the Rise; also How to Shorten or Lengthen Trousers Reduce the Waist and Knee Measures Increase the Waist Make PegTop Trousers Out of a Normal Block Pattern
Make Make Make Make Make Make Make
106 io7 '0° 109
Trousers for a BowLegged Person Trousers for a Toein Person Trousers for a Toeout Person
no
Broad Falls
"3 "3
Narrow
1 1
112
Falls
Knickerbockers from a Regular Trousers Pattern Golf Breeches Out of an Ordinary Block Pattern
Alterations and How to Make Them Instructions for Tailoring Coats
114 116 1
18174 '75
IS
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