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Inlernalional Copyiight,

1917

by the

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY

All Righli Reserved

Reproduction

Interdite

VervieKaelligung UnlersagI

6

Ibi/


The American Paiiern

Grader Jl Complete,

Work

Practical, Up-to-T)ate

on the Qrading of Patterns for

MEN'S

GARMENTS

The Use of ^lock Patterns Alterations

and

How

to ^TUCake

Them By

SAMUEL TiEGAL li

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY PUBLISHERS

New

York, Chicago, London, Paris, Berlin, Vienna


5^0

<^^K

Introduction

DRAPER

his

in

ization" says :

" Intellectual " Individual

Nowhere

for social progress."

be found so dividual

Advancement advancement

fully realized as in these

advancement

" Excebior "

is

marked

is

is

is

the truth of this to

in

every

avenue of

inscribed on the banner of every

and

Civil-

model

United Stales, where

woman, bome onward and forward through the crush, through the whirlpools

of

the

fast

in-

life.

man and rush

and

flowing streams of

life's

kaleidoscopic changes, ever reaching higher and higher and

becoming more and more and ticular

sphere and

in their

own

still

more

perfect in their par-

individual calling.

For twenty-five years the author has devoted

his time to

the careful study of every subject applicable to the publication of this

work, and has arranged

amyone

this

of average intelligence

volume

in

such a manner that

can master

this

method with

the employment of proper care and necessary diligence.

The

student will find the system of

pounded simple

and

entirely free

from

Grading herein excomplication.

All

which might have a tendency

to mislead the

been eliminated so

drawn and applied may be

easily

that every line

student, has

grasped and perfectly understood.

Šr.l.A4ri5789 M.AR

-6 1917

V 'i^i>^1i)


Preface IN 1

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER,

publishing the is

it

to advocate cutting

by proportion

he considers the knowledge

who

way

not the purpose of the author in any

of

indispensable to him

art

this

particularly

the fact that

in spite of

proclaims himself a competent cutler and wishes to be

considered so by his fellow workers. It

is

and always

who

words, the cutter

and

vidual

is

where

where ing

engaged

is

this

in

is

to

In other

possible.

has the time to devote to each indi-

remunerated adequately

such services should

for

For the

never cut but by special measure.

who

and best method

will be, the wisest

adopt drafting to measure

cutter,

however,

wholesale tailoring work or such

work

prices are of a nature necessitating quick results, draft-

by

proportion, popularly

Patterns,"

becomes a

as "

known

The Use

of

Block

necessity.

In order to thoroughly master the art of using block patterns,

it

former page,

it

pattern

becomes necessary is

the result of the

will

be found

which

is

first

that the

how

to learn

to

grade, as the

In the lessons following this

latter.

grade

utilized for all sizes

is

started from a single

and when once made,

is

the basis for (he making of block patterns.

author has aimed to put the art of

In this volume, the

using block patterns as plainly as possible to the student, it is

his firm belief that

anyone

who

and

conversant with cutting

is

can easily follow the lessons given herein. In order to facilitate the

pelled

course

These

to of

employ

instructions

alterations

have

work

method

this

in all

of the

man who

of cutting, a

the making of alterations

been

practically tested

result of twenty-five years of actual practice

period not the least time necessities

daily

was given

and requirements

is

added.

and are the

during

which

lo the careful study of the

of altering garments

under various conditions.

com-

is

most complete

encountered


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

TABLE OF PROPORTIONS F

OR

BOYS AND YOUTHS COATS AGE


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

TABLE OF PROPORTIONS FROM NORMALS TO STOUTS COAT


TABLE

OF

PKOPORTIONS FOR SHOKT MEASURES BY HEIGHT AND BREASTS

Breast

32 33 3^ 35

Might

16

5-^

/6

M. M_

f6

/6

/6

S% 8%

W

^/

J6

/6

J6

9'/s

9'4

9%

39

^Z ^3

^^

^J

^6

/6 16_

W

^6

W

9'^

9'/^

9%

/ff^A

/2% /2% 72% 73 13h. /6% ms_ 17% 17% 18h mz m/8

T&h.

76^ /m.

//^

/2

ms

^7 V8

Breast

/^ /6 /O ms /^^

WaiitUnqtii

Scye

ms 13% ma /^ /m 79'/8

strap

/9% /9% 20 20&

W% 76'A 76'/^ 76A. 76^ 9% m. /o lOh 10^ 19%

mi_ /6k 76^ 7m. 7&7^

(hnshoi/ldtt

Waistlayth

9'A 9% 9^2 978 ycye Strap /2h 12% 12?^ 13% 131^ 133k. 1¥ 79'/2 /9% 20f, ZO% (heahoulder J^iM^ 76k. /692 76U JZ^7722j7Jt 78 18% 78% 79 J6k /6f2 Ml72 m2j6'^ 76'^ lOh 7092 76k 769s 769^769^ 7699i 7/79z Wmtfenyfh 8% 8% 8^s 9'/2 9^/s 9fs 9'A 10 im. IIM. ia% Scye /P/8 17^8 im. 121^ i2%m8 13 13'A1392 13% 73^/8 12h irM/n Strap (3%

83k

I

ILAU'/^

5-6

38

m 9 Ws m /a/ii ms JMlMA mt M^ m m Mt m /7%im m¥ 892

//93

5-5

36 37

ms

/2'8

7/'/2

9

ms /6fi

iM

9^

U

ms

mt

9%\m

m. lA

m^Mk

m.

77 17bJ7'H_ 777s 789s 789ii 78^/^ 7998 19% 79^i 20 ZOA 2092 (hershoulder M^rn^ /m 763a 76^A 70% 76% 76% 763a 703a io% 10-% 70% 70% 703A 76% b%\s^/f- 3% 9h 9f7 91z 9% 9^/¥ 9h 70 lOls lOk mi 20^ 10' Scyt 5-7 //9^ //92 ms im 12f8 12^ 129^ 72% 73 13^8 73% 73^^. 73% 1^7 179, 77% Strap 76 m^ 16h 76% 779s 779i 77-^'^ 78 789j, ms B2M919 79^ 193t 209s 203/, 20ft OvenJiou/der /7 /7 /7 /7 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77^ 77 77 yaistUnifflr i5U16'/s

/63a,

5-8

Ml ms

9%

mi

i& 72 mt 77

//%

im. m\

5-9

WaJstUtifftb

9'A

9^18

/2h 12h

9% 9% 9h 10 10fs\l079 ms 7092 10% m. 12% 131s 13lv lllk 73% 137s7778 777s 17^ 17%

992

/79'^ 77'''8 777/8 1898 783/8

Scyt St,rap

78% 79 79'

79%\797s 297^ 2O'^2O3/jf0verd,ouldn/7'A /7ff rm. 723^ 779^ 779¥ 77'A 72k 12A 77f¥ 779i, 779^ 72k 779v 779¥ 779i^ 779^^^ Waist lenqtfi SVs 9 9fs 99f 9'/2 10'/^ lOfs 7012 7998 707^ 7/77s Scye 10 //'/z 72 113^ /23^ 12^ 72% 13 1399^13% 13% 73' 72 217^ I2I2 77fs 7798 Strap

9% 9\ 9%

9%

Ml

Mk.

/69z

12k 12^

5-10 //%

M im

/63k 763^

ms

20

/6h /79s 77-^/8 773^ 78 789'^ 7S9z 787/8 7998 799^ /^^* 20^^s2078 2/?7s /792 77fz 7792 77'^ 7792 7792 779^, 779^ 7792 7792 7212 77/2 72/2 77h /7'9^ 9'A

9h 9^ 9% 9% 10

/2ys 729^ 7292

12%

77

77%

77'/v /7'/z

107s 70'929^s 7072 79% 707^7978 127s 1393 1372 73M.22 17% 77% 773/1^ 7898 783/s 78% 79 199779^8 79fs 2d9s 2972 20^

Ws

ms

(htrshouUer

yaisllmffth

77

^cyc

7J

SLrap

,

27

(herslioulda-

12^ 12^ 123^ 77-^^ 12^ 77-% mt 123k. 77% 773/^ 77% 77% 72^ 12^ 77% 77% TZ^vk 5-11 9ls_ 92l m. 992 9% 9% 9?s 10 70fs707j^70% 10^2 70% 70% 7078 77 777s Scye 12 12h ms 72% 12% 13 13'A Ml 73% 137s 777s 779v 77992 77% 777s 7J7s Strap /6'/2 16^ 7798 /7^8 77% 18 189t /89ii 78^ 7978 793/s 793/, 20 ZO'Af 20%207/8 27fS lA^ /8 18 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 /S Waisften^ 70f^ 2/7^ Scye 7sm7 7078 77 0-0 9A 9% 9'l2 9% 9% 97s 10 Ml 1298 72'/3 12!^ /2% 12?8 mi3% /3A1A 79 177^ 7n8 777s 77k 75 7Sf^ Strap 'h /6h /a 77^2 7^ 789s ^ 7S^/sm's Hk 79A ms 27/'s ?0% 27 279^ Blarl^ 10 \im mio% // /372/J% 22 BUe 13 /m/2 <her5fiouUtr

mim^

mm

m mm m

m.

Qyerihoutt/tr


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

How

Grade a Sack Coat from a

to

Tlie principle of grading sack coats

double breasted.

The

idea

is

is

the

same

in

all

cases,

Single Pattern

whether the coat be single or

to distribute the increase in the larger patterns or the decrease in

way that the backpart and front part will each receive their (meaning the breast measurements) are increased or decreased by an inch for each size, which leaves the pattern to be increased or decreased J4 inch, and is distributed in the following manner J4 'ich at the front edge and ^ inch at the side seam, which makes the lA inch double or i inch. The % inch at the side seam is divided in halves, which the smaller patterns in such a

respective share.

The

sizes

:

gives y&

This

forepart and the other ]/Âť inch to the side of the backpart. added or deducted from the width of the back, thereby increasing

inch to the side of the

latter

]/&

inch

is

also

or decreasing the shoulder width.

The scye depth is increased or decreased ]/(, inch for every size. If all men were of the same height and the increase or decrease were in the breast and waist measures only, the scye depth would increase or decrease ]/% inch for every size, but as the majority of men range in height from 5 feet 5 inches to 5 feet 9 inches, we must cut patterns for the majority, or as men are so beginning with a 38 breast coat for a man of normal height, and decreasing yi inch down to 33, the 33 pattern will give a proportionate measurement for a man 5 feet 5 inches in height, and increasing ^ inch up to 44 will make the 44 scye depth proportionate for a man ;

3

feet

9 inches

in height,

thereby striking the average.


:

:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

10

How

Grade from a

to

In grading from a single pattern

have

First, be sure to

a it

necessary to observe two rules

is

it

breast and waist lines

tiie

Single Pattern

marked on

the pattern

medium size pattern, neither too large nor too small. A 38 breast is you may first grade down to 33 and then up to 43 or 44. This grade is made from a 38 breast pattern and graded down to

;

second, always use

good

a

and from

size,

33.

THE BACKPART. Copy

the 38 backpart

on a sheet of

stiff

mark

paper,

the breast and waist lines

and pro-

ceed as follows

From

A

to

B

34 inch for every inch the pattern

is

B and make

square forward from

From From

I

D

to 2 to

C

^

is

same distance as from

make

or you can

in length

to

i,

^

%

inch;

of 33 breast.

inch.

the

is

to be reduced, in this case

is

B

distance from

the

A

This will reduce each pattern J^ inch B to C according to your judg-

to B.

the length of the 33 backpart from

ment.

From E

to

F

34 inch for every inch reduction,

is

G

and from

and from

H

From 4

B

draw

the same.

is

and mark from 3 to

H

same distance as from A to B, which is inch place the top of back and trace it, and do the same from 2 to 3. from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, H to G and from J to I divide all spaces indicated after which cut out the graded backpart and number each division to avoid

H

—2

lines

H

to J.

to 3 is the

pattern to points

Now

F

through

to

H—F

Place the side seam of the original 38 backpart to points

;

;

into five equal parts,

mistakes.

THE FOREPART. Copy

the 38 forepart

on a sheet of paper and mark the breast and waist

O

Ascertain the distance from

P

to

by sixths,

the distance

lines.

may

be >^ of the breast or yi plus 34 inch, or >^ less >4 inch, in either case the shoulder point on the 33 pattern should be proportionately the same distance from as the 38 pattern. e.,

i.

O

For

O

P on the 38 pattern is 3^ of 38 breast plus 34 inch, should be Yb of 33 breast plus ]4 inch square up from Q. reduce the front edge from L to K, 34 inch for every inch, in this case 5 quarter

instance, if the distance

O

then the distance from

Now

from

to

Q

to

;

inches.

From line,

and

M

to

N

is

the

same as from

the front edge to touch points

L

to

K

N — K,

;

place the original pattern, breast line on breast

and trace the edge from

Y

through

W

X

K— N— 11

13.

From 7 to 6 is 34 inch for every inch reduction; from 9 to 8 and to are the same; place the side of the forepart to points 6 8 and trace the side from 6 through 8 to X; from to is the same as from C to on backpart; 14 to 15 is the same.

X

V

D

Trace the side seam and bottom of forepart with the original pattern. Measure from R to T 5^ inch or the same as from A to B on backpart; from 17 to 16 is the same as from T to star, and from 18 to 19 is the same; from T to 19 is Y& inch less than from 2 to 3 on the small backpart. Ascertain the height of neck by eighths,

t.

e.,

from

R

to

S

in this case is

]/%

of 38 breast plus

34 inch.

Make

Now

the distance

from

T

to

U

>^ of 33 breast plus 3^ inch

trace out the gorge, shoulder

Draw lines from many additional lines

Y

to Z,

T

;

square forwards from U.

and armscye with the original

to R, 18 to 19, 7 to 6,

V

pattern.

W,

10 to 11 and 12 to 13, and as as will ensure perfect lines on the graded patterns, and divide each line to

into five equal parts.

The pockets are marked as follows: From 38 to 33 is half the distance of C the 33 pattern according to your judgment,

All points of division

part of the grade

is

to D on backpart; decrease the and draw lines, from 38 to 33, each

must now be numbered according to

then completed.

size of pockets

on

side of the pocket.

their respective sizes,

and

this


/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

I.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

The grading from 38

to 33 breast being completed,

we

now proceed

will

to

make

the

increase from 38 to 43 breast.

mark around and C to D.

Place the graded backpart on a paper, and

from

B

At is

A B— A to

2 to

;

5,

H

3 to 4,

to G, J to

I

it

extend

;

all

the grade lines as

add the same amount from 38 to 43 as the decrease was from 38 to 33, which

yi inch for every size.

At 2 5 adil in the same proportion, i. c, whatever the decrease was from 38 to 33, make same increase from 38 to 43 breast. Increa.se at all grading points in the same way, adding at each point the same amount per size as the decrease was from ^S to 33. the

THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a paper and

Extend Z,

K

to L,

At

all

M to

K— L

the grading lines as

N,

mark around

from 19

II to 10, 13 to 12, 15 to 14,

it.

T

to 18, 16 to 17,

V

W and 6 M — N, which to

add ^ inch for every inch; at line which will make the sizes as follows:

to R, 23 to 22, 25 to 24,

Y

to

to 7. is

the waist

line,

add 5-16 inch

for every inch,

Waist.

Brea.st.

34^ 35H

38 39

At At

II

40

37

41

38>4

42

39J^

43

40?4

44

42

— 10 and 13—

12,

add the same as

at

M — N.

other grading points, add from the 38 to 43 breast in the same proportion as the reduction was from 38 to 33 number the various sizes and proceed to cut out the patterns. all

;

Beginning with the 39 breast, mark around the lower part of armscye, prick through pxDints marked 39 and trace out with the next smaller pattern, which is the 38 size,

all


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

2.

13


:

;

AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER

14

V\o\N to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern The

principle of grading the stout coats

is

the

same as

except that the pattern to grade from must be of larger

For instance, the stout would therefore be a good

Now

sets are size to

made

from 38

to run in sizes

to

A

48 breast measure.

42

grade from.

proceed as follows

Place the backpart of a 42 stout on a

and waist

governing the normal coat,

that

size.

stiff

paper and mark around

it

;

mark

also

the breast

lines.

From

Now

15 to 15

and

in this case is y% inch, or

— 17 and mark as from

12 through 13, 14, 15 and

38.

^

the same,

is

which

to 17, Yz inch for every inch reduction,

Measure from 17

the difference between 42

inch.

place the baqk pattern to points 15

16 to 17.

From

ID to 10

Yb inch for every

is

mch

reduction, which

is

Yt-

Square out from the lower point 10 and make the distance from 10 to square up from 11,^ inch.

From

12 to 12

is

the

same as from 10

to 10; place the pattern to points

11, 34

11

of 38 breast;

— 10

and

11

— 12

and shape the 38 back.

Now draw

lines

Divide

the points as

all

from

11 to 11, 12 to 12, 13 to 13

marked

and 14 to

into five equal parts

14.

and number them.

THE FOREPART. Place the forepaYt on a paper and

mark around

it;

mark

also

the breast

and waist

lines.

Reduce from 2y to 27, Y& '"ch for each inch from 29 to 29 is the same as from 27 place your pattern to points 27 29 and shape the side seam of the smaller size forepart. ;

to 27

From

23 to 23 reduce the forepart 34 inch for every inch, and from 24 to 24 reduce the

same.

Now

place the pattern, the front edge to touch at the inner line 23

—24 and

shape the front

edge of the smaller coat as from 22 through 23, 24, 25 and 26.

it

is_

is

Ascertain the distance from 32 to 33 or the neck point of the large pattern by sixths, i. c, be Yd of the breast, or Yd pl^s 34 inch or Yd '^^s 34 inch, and whatever the distance

may

give the same proportion to the small coat.

In other words, if the distance from 32 to 33 42 breast, make the distance from 32 to 34 Yd of 38 breast and square up from 34. From 20 to 20 is Yd inch for each size, or the same distance as from 10 to 10 on backpart.

Yd of

Ffom to \2

19 to 19 and 18 to 18 are the same as from 20 to 20; measure the small backpart from and make the small forepart from 20 to 18, 34 inch less.

From 20 pattern

is

Now

to 35

on

large pattern

is

3^ of

42 breast plus yi inch

;

from 20

to

11

36 on small

3^ of 38 plus 34 inch.

connect

all

points as

shown and divide each space

into five equal parts.

must be numbered and the patterns cut out the same as explained before.

All divisions


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

3.

15


AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER

i6

How

to

Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a

Single Pattern

Continued

The

reduction in the patterns having been made,

we

will

now

increase the sizes from 42 to

46 inches.

THE BACKPART. Place the graded back part on a sheet of paper and

mark around

it;

also

mark

the

breast

and waist lines. Extend all the grade lines from the original grade as shown from 10 up, from 11 up, from 12 up, from 1,3 out, from 14 out, from 15, 16 and 17 out. Increase the back height from the 42 grade up the same amount as the decrease was made from 42 down to 38, which is Yf, inch for every inch. Increase each size at 1 1 the same amount as the decrease was from 42. Increase at points 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17 the same amount as the grade was decreased from 42 to 38, which

is

%

inch for every inch.

THE FOREPART. Extend

Add

mark the breast and waist shown and proceed as follows:

the graded forepart on a paper

Copy

all

the grade lines as

;

at the breast point 23, J4 inch for

lines.

every inch increase.

.^dd at points 24, 25 and 26. 5-16 inch or >4 and

Vi;

inch for every inch.

This

will increase

waist size as follows: Breast.

Make ately at all

42

43

4.3'4

44

445^

45

45?4

46

47

same as the decrease was below 42, and increase proportiongrading points the same space per size as the decrease was from 42 to 38.

the increase at 22 the

Number so on,

Waist.

42

all spaces as before and, beginning with 43 size, trace always tracing each pattern with the next smaller size.

it

out with the 42 pattern and


.â&#x20AC;¢/

M ERI C AN PATTER A'

DIAGRAM

4.

GRA

DER

17


:

AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER

i8

How

Grade a Double-Breasted Sack Coat from a

to

Single Pattern This grade

made

is

This pattern

same way as the

in the

back to the

to avoid referring

and

for a 38 breast coat,

is

single breasted grade, but will describe

it

so as

grade.

first

is

graded down to 33 inches breast.

THE BACKPART. From A

B

on a sheet of paper and proceed as follows

the backpart

Copy

A

to

yi inch for every inch.

is

from F through the same as from A

side of small backpart

F

to

is

Place the top of the backpart lines from E to E, G to

Draw

Divide

for the small backpart,

I is

the same.

breast line; and shape the

and

I

A which is Ye inch. to points A — E, and trace out G, H to H and K to K.

and

y& inch.

I,

K

M.

to

to

connecting lines into five equal parts, and

all

E

M — with breast line on G to H and from H through

Place the side of the backpart to points

From F

A

Square forward from

half scye depth of the small back.

is

make the distance from A to E K of 33 breast. Go up from From M to M is J/^ inch for every inch reduction. I to

mark

from

A

E

to

E

and

to F.

the sizes.

THE FOREPARTS. Trace the forepart on a

stiff

paper,

proceed as follows: From I to i reduce the forepart

^

breast and waist lines, also the pockets and

mark the

inch for every inch.

to i, and from 3 to 3 is the same. and 3 and trace the front edge from Z down. From 6 to 6 reduce the side of forepart Yf, inch for every inch, and from 4 to 4 the same. Place the side of forepart to points 6 4, and trace the side seam of the small pattern from 7 through 6 and 5 to 4. Ascertain the distance from D to J by sixths, and make the distance D to S proportionate!)-

From

2 to 2

is

same as from

the

Place the pattern to points

i

i

—2

the same.

For S, Yb of

instance,

Q

From

to J

3^ of

is

38 breast make the distance from

D

to

S.

same distance as from

the

is

D

from

Square up from

O

to

the distance

if

33 breast.

A

to

A

on backpart, which

is Y(>

inch for every

inch decrease.

Q on Q

From »".

of

if

e.,

12,

from

Now ;

L

^

is

breast plus Ya inch.

From O From N tern

small pattern to to

V

is

proportionately the same as from

Make

from

Q

to

Q to L on the 38 pattern. V on small pattern is Y&

Y

O is the same as R to Q. to X is the same as O to O.

from

Points

inch, then

to

place the 38 pattern to points

also

^

of 38 breast plus Square out from

Q

Y— X

to is

U

N — O— Q

V is cut out of fromU to Y on the

where the

the distance

and trace out the shoulder of the small

pat-

trace out the gorge.

the gorge.

small pattern

the

same

as

U

to

Y

is

on the large

pattern.

Now draw Divide

all

to Q, T to T, Y to Y, to O, lines from 7 to 7, N to N, connecting points into five equal parts and number them.

O

Q

U

to

U

and Z

to Z.

This finishes the grade.

Now

place the graded backpart on a paper and

marked 37 and

Prick through

all

Do

backparts, always tracing

this to all

Now

points

mark

the centre seam.

trace out the backpart with the 38 pattern.

them with the next larger pattern.. and mark the front of artnscye. points marked 37. Remove the grade and trace out with the

place the graded forepart on a paper

With an awl

jirick

through

all

38 pattern.

Do

this to all sizes,

always tracing out with the next larger pattern.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

5.

19


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

20

How

Grade a Frock Coat from a

to

Single Pattern

is the same as the sack coat with this exception, the and this coat has three parts, /. e., the back, sidebody and forepart. The division at the back seams must therefore be in three parts instead of two, and as 3-12 equals '/j, and the division is J4 inch for every inch, each part must have either aii increase or

The

principle of grading this pattern

sack coat

inch for every inch.

-,ij

decrease of

The

cut in two parts

is

of this pattern

size

38 breast and

is

graded down to 34.

is

THE BACKPART. PYom A

to

B

^

is

Square out from

inch for every inch.

B and make

From I to 2 is 5^ inch. From G to H and 29 to 30 From 4

to 3

is

the

From E From D

H — 30

From Draw

>^ of

i,

34 breast.

which is 4-8 and trace from 3 to H.

A

same as from

inch.

to B.

B — 2 and

2

—3

F is T^ inch for every inch. to C and J to I are the same. F C the backpart to points H

Place

to

yk inch for every inch,

is

Place the backpart to points Place the backpart to points

from B

the distance

and trace

out.

to

— — —

the lower point at lines

connecting

H

all

to 30

and trace

i

the same as

is

G

grade points from 2 to

out.

to 29.

5,

E

3 to 4, 30 to 29,

to F,

G

D

and

to 7,

and

to

I to J.

Divide

points into 4 equal parts

all

and number them.

THE SIDEBODY. Reduce

the sidebody

from 12

to 13

^

inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same.

Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13

from 7 through 13 and down. From 9 to 8 is -f"? inch for every divide

all

from 8

inch.

—E and trace

Place the sidebody to points 8

Now

—7 and trace out

out.

grading points into four equal parts and number them.

THE FOREPART. Reduce from 17 to 16 ^^ inch for every inch, and from Reduce from P to Y 34 inch for every inch, and from Q Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points 25 through

Y and

Z

to S.

K

to

to

Z

Y— Z

20 the same. the same.

;

and trace the front edge from

Place the side of forepart to points 20

L

Ascertain the distance from 24 to

16 and trace out. by sixths and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the

(See first diagram.) Square up from 21.

same.

From From From From

W

M

to

V

to 23

W W

to

to

U X

is

the

same

as

from

and from 22 to is is

U

Now

place the pattern to points all

to

B

on backpart.

same

as

from 28 to

J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. proportionately the same as from to N.

Square forwards from X. Connect

A

are the

M

U—23 —W,

and trace

grading points as shown and divide

all

W. (See

out, also

first

from

diagram.)

W

to 25.

points into four equal parts and

number

them.

THE

SKIRT.

Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33, J4 inch for every inch. Measure the small front and sidebody from S to 16 and to

32 the same.

to T,

and make the

skirt

from 33


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

6.


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. Place the skirt pattern to points 32 36 and trace into four equal parts and number each size. For cutting out you proceed as follows

Place the graded backpart on a paper and all

marked

points

37.

Continue

backpart.

Remove

in the

mark

down;

down from

also trace

33, divide

the centre seam, after which prick through

the grade and trace out with the next larger size which

same way

for the next

size.

Prick through

all

points

is

the 38

marked 36

and trace out with the 37 pattern.

THE SIDEBODY. mark down the side as from E to T and the marked 37 and trace out with the 38 pattern. The

Place the graded sidebody on a paper and

bottom from

T

to 17.

Prick through

all

places

same way. First mark marked 37 and trace out with

foreparts are cut in the

through

To

places

all

the

front of the armscye, after which prick

the 38 pattern.

increase the frock grade proceed as follows:

THE BACKPART. Extend lines B to A, 2 to 5, 3 to At B A increase from 38 to 43

34,

which At 2

is Yf,

—5

4,

30 to 29,

in the

H

to G,

C

same proportion

to

D

and

I

to J.

as the decrease

was from 38

to

inch for every size.

same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. same proportion as the decrease was from 38 to 34. The sidebody and skirt are increased in the same way as the backpart, «. e., increase in the same proportion as the decrease was made. increase from 38 to 43 in the

Increase at

all

grading points

in the

The forepart is increased as follows: At line Y P add J4 '"ch for every size,

size; at 17

portion as

and 16 add -^ inch for every size; the decrease was from 38 to 34.

Z Q and S R add 5-16 inch for every other points are increased in the same pro-

at lines all


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

7.

23


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

24

How The

Grade a Stout Frock Coat from a

to

size of this pattern is

42 breast and

Single Pattern

graded down to 38.

is

THE BACKPART. From A

B

to

^

is

Square out from

inch for every inch.

B and make

From I to 2 is 5^ inch. From G to H and 29 to 30

is ]/&

to 3

is

the

same as from

Place the backpart to points

From E From D

F

to to

C

B

from B

to

i,

^

of 38 breast.

inch for every inch, which

H — 30

Place the backpart to points

From 4

the distance

A

and trace from 3

is

4-8 inch.

H.

to

to B.

—2 and 2—3

and trace

out.

and trace

out.

iV inch f*^"" every inch. and J to I are the same. is

Place the backpart to points

Draw

lines

Divide

all f>oints

H — F— C— I

grade points from 2 to 5, 3 to into four equal parts and number them.

connecting

all

4,

E

to F,

C

to

D

and

I to J.

THE SIDEBODY. Reduce the sidebody from 12

to 13, -^ inch for every inch,

Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13

and from 7 through 13 and down; from 13 to From 9 to 8 is T^ inch for every inch. Place the sidebody to points 8 *, which

15

Now

divide

all

is

is

the

same

and from 6 to 7 the same. and trace out from 8

—7

to 7,

as 12 to 14.

slightly above the breast line

and trace

out.

grading points into four equal parts and number them.

THE FOREPART, Reduce from 17 to 16, -^ inch for every inch, and from K to 20 the same. inch for every inch, and from Q to Z the same. Reduce from P to Y Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points Y Z; and trace the front edge from 25 through Y and Z to S.

^

Place the side of forepart to points 20 to

17.

From

10 up to the small forepart

— 16 is

and trace

the

out.

same as 16

is

From

18 to 16

above

17.

is

the

same

as 19

L by sixths, and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the Square up from 21. is the same as from A to B on backpart. From to From \' to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. From to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. From to X is proportionately the same as from iVI to N. (See first diagram.) Square forward from X. Ascertain the distance from 24 to

same.

(See

first

diagram.)

W

M

W W

Now

place the pattern to points

Connect

all

U—23—W,

and trace

grading points as shown and divide

all

out, also

from

W to

25.

points into four equal parts

and number

them.

For cutting out always begin with the next Prick through

all

points

to the largest size, in this case the 41.

marked 41 and trace out with the next

largest pattern,

which

is

the 42.

In increasing the sizes begin with the 43 and trace out with the 42 smallest.

which

is

the next


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

8.

25


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

26

How

Grade a Double-Breasted Frock Coat from a

to

Single Pattern The

size of this pattern is

38 breast and

graded down

is

to 34.

THE BACKPART. From

A

B

to

J^ inch for every inch. B and make the distance

is

from

Square out from

From From

to 2

I

G

H

to

B

to

£ind

29 to 30

Place the backpart to points

C

to

is

the same.

Place the backpart to points

Draw I

lines connecting all

is

4-8 inch.

H —30

D

>^ of 34 breast.

yi inch for every inch, which and trace from 3 to H.

is

A

to B. From 4 to 3 is the same as from Place the backpart to points B 2 and 2 From E to F is T*z inch for every mch.

From

i,

5^ inch.

is

— 3 and trace

H— F—C—I

and trace

grade points from 2 to

out.

out.

5,

3 to 4, 30 to 29,

E

to F,

C

to

D

and

to J.

Divide

all

points into four equal parts

and number them.

THE SIDEBODY. to 13 t's inch for every inch, and from 6 to 7 the same. Place the sidebody breast line on breast line to points 13 7 and trace out from 8 to 7 and

Reduce the sidebody from 12

from 7 through 13 and down. From 13 to 15 is the same as 12 to 17. inch for every inch. From 9 to 8 is Place the sidebody to points 8 star, which is slightly above the breast Now divide all grading points into four equal parts and number them.

^

line,

and trace

out.

THE FOREPART. Reduce from 17 Reduce from P

to 16 to

t*!

Y ^

inch for every inch, and from

inch for every inch, and from

K to 20 the Q to Z the

same.

same.

Place the forepart, breast line on breast hne to points Y Z, and trace the front edge from 25 through Y and Z to S. Point S is as much above the lower line as line 16 is above line 17. 16 and trace out. Place the side of forepart to points 20 Ascertain the distance from 24 to L by sixths, and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the

same.

(See

From M From V From From

Square up from 21. same as from A to B on backpart. to 23 and from 22 to U are the same as from 28 to W. to U is J^ inch less than 2 to 3 on backpart. (See to X is proportionately the same as from M to N.

first

to

W W

diagram.)

W

is

the

forward from X.

Now

place the pattern to points

Connect

all

grading

f)oints as

U— 23 —W,

first

and trace out, also from

shown and divide

all

W

Square

diagram.) to 25.

points into four equal parts and

number

them.

THE

SKIRT.

%

inch for every inch. Reduce the skirt from 34 to 33, Measure the small front from S to 16 and 15 to T, and make the

skirt

from 33

to

32 the

same.

From 35 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 32. Place the skirt pattern to points 32 36 and trace

down; also trace down from 33, divide and number each size. For cutting out always begin with the next to the largest size, in this case the 37. Prick through all points marked 37 and trace out with the next largest pattern, which is the 38. The rever is graded as follows From R to 10 is the same as S to 25 on forepart, from 10 to 14 is the same as 11 to 15, into four equal parts

divide from 10 to 11 and 14 to 15 into four equal parts.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

9.

V


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

28

Ho\A/ to Grade Dress Coats from a Single Pattern This grade is made from a 38 breast pattern and is graded down to 34 inch breast. The back and sidebody being graded the same as the other frock coats, we will just show the front

and the

skirt.

THE FOREPART. Reduce from 17

From

K

to 20

to 16, xV '"ch for every inch.

the

is

Reduce from P

same as 17

Y ^

to

to 16.

Q

inch for every inch and from

Place the forepart, breast line on breast line to points and Z to S. 25 through

to

Z

the same.

Y —Z,

and trace the front edge from

Y

Place the side of forepart to points 20

From C

A

Line

to 16 is

the

is

same length

much above

as

line

B

as

— 16

from

D

as line 16

L

Ascertain the distance from 24 to same. (See first diagram.)

and trace down. to 17. is

above

line 17.

by sixths and make from 24 to 21 proportionately the

Square up from 21.

M

From From From From

to

V

W

W W

to to

J^ for every inch.

is

to U are the same as from 28 to W. U is ^ inch less than the back shoulder seam. X is proportionately the same as from M to N. (See

to 23

and from 22

first

diagram.)

Square forward from X.

Now

place the pattern

to points

From 25 to 14 is the same From 10 to 26 and from Connect

Now

from 10

lines

connect

all

from

as

U— 23 — W, O to 15.

14 to 26

to 11

is

and trace out; also trace out from

where the

and from 14

to

15

;

V

is

also

W

to 10.

cut out of the small forepart.

from 26

grading points as shown and divide them

all

to 27.

into four equal parts

and num-

ber them.

THE

SKIRT.

Reduce the

skirt

from 34

From 35 From 36

to

36

the same as from 31 to 32.

to

32

is is

the

to 33 Y^ inch for every inch,

same as from 35

—31 —36—

Connect points 32

35, 33

and from 31 to 32 the same.

to 31. 34,

and divide them

all

into four equal portions

and

number them. Cut out these patterns and tracing it out with the

in the

38.

same way as the other graded patterns beginning with the 37


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

10.

29


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

30

How This grade

Grade a Waistcoat from a

to

made from

is

and

a 38 breast

is

Single Pattern

graded down to 34.

THE BACKPART. From

A

to

B

^

is

inch for every inch reduction, which

and make the distance from

B

to

C

D

to

is

G

and square up from

toG.

From From From From

F

B

J^ inch.

Place the square to the breast line so that the right angle will touch at 3

Square out from

4-6 inch.

is

From C

>^ of 34 breast.

3 to 2 reduce the backpart

G

to

F

H

I to

the

is

same

as

^

inch for every inch

A

from

to B,

which

is

%

;

square up from

2.

inch for every inch.

reduce the backpart J4 inch for every inch.

M

and to L are % inch for every inch. Place the back pattern to points B D and trace out; also trace out from D to F, from to H and H through J to L. Draw lines connecting points D E, F G, H I, J K, and L M. Divide all connecting points into four equal parts and number them according to size.

K

to J

— —

THE FOREPART. Ascertain the distance from 4 to

R

by sixths and make the distance from 4 to S propor-

tionately the same.

For

instance,

From Q From P From From Y

to

P

to

N

from 4

if

5^ of 34 breast plus

^

inch

to ;

R

is

34 of 38 breast plus

34 inch for every inch reduction

is

is

'4 inch

^

inch

make

the distance from 4 to

S

square up from S.

more than from

W to V reduce the

D

;

from

O to N

is

the

same

as

from S

to P.

to F.

front yi inch for every inch.

X

and Z to i are the same. i and trace the front edge; also trace cut Place the front edge of pattern to points \' X the shoulder, opening and armscye. Draw lines connecting points N O, P— Q, V'-^W, X Y and Z i, and divide all connecting points into four equal portions and number them. Now beginning with the backpart, mark the center seam and bottom. to

— —

Prick through

Follow

this up,

points marked 37 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. and as before, prick through all points marked 36 and trace

all

it

out with the

37 pattern and so on until finished.

THE FOREPART. mark the armscye and side seam, after which prick marked 37 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. Keep on in the same way always tracing out with the next larger pattern,

Place your graded forepart on a paper

through

all

points

until finished,

;


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

II.

31


AM ERICAN PATTERN GRADER

32

Double Grading For the man who

is

sure of his pattern there

is

nothing Hke the double grade.

quickest, surest and most simple way, and although some cutters alteration it is easier to make one model, alter it and grade from

necessary to change one pattern the 38,

it

is

just as easy to

This grade

and grade from two patterns.

This grade

is

is

will it,

argue that yet

if

It

in case

is

the

of an

the cutter finds

it

change the 42 breast pattern as the 36 or

made from

a 36 and a 42 breast pattern.

a 36 and 42 breast pattern.

made from

Single'Breasted Sack

Coat

THE B^CKPART.

line

Place the backpart of a 36 breast pattern on the backpart of a 42 pattern, with the breast Mark the small back on the large one. line, and centre seam to centre seam.

on breast

Draw all

lines

from

D

E to E, B to B, F to F, C to C, G to G, and X to X. Divide between the small and large patterns into six equal parts and number

D,

to

the corresponding points

each division according to

size.

THE FOREPART. Copy

the forepart of the 42 breast pattern on a

stiff

paper

;

also

mark

the breast and waist

and the pockets.

lines

Place the front of the 36 breast pattern on the 42 front, with breast line on breast line, and Mark the small pattern on the large one also mark the

front of armscye to front of armscye.

;

small pockets on the large pattern.

Now

U

connect

U, 6 to

to

all

the grading points as

6, J to J, 5

to

Q

5,

to

Q,

P

as desired so as to ensure perfect lines

shown from L

to P, ;

O

to

O, and

and divide them

K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, N, and make as many more lines into six equal parts and number

to L,

N all

to

ihem.

Now

place the graded backpart on a paper and

Prick through

Do

all

points

this to all backparts,

marked 37 and

mark

the centre seam.

trace out the backpart with the 36 pattern.

always tracing them with the next smaller pattern.

THE FOREPART. mark the front of armscye. marked 37 and trace it out with the 36 pattern. 38 forepart, and trace it with the 37 pattern and so on

Place the graded forepart on a paper and

Prick through

Do

the

all

points

same with the

until finished.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

12.

33


AM ERICAN PATTERN GRADER

34

Double Grading This grade

is

a 38 and a 48 breast pattern.

made from

Single-Breasted Stout Sack

THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 38 breast pattern on the backpart of a 48 pattern with the breast line Mark the small back on the large one. line, and centre seam to centre seam.

on breast

Draw

lines

Divide

all

from

D to

E

D,

to E,

B

to B,

F

C

to F,

to C,

G

to

G

and

X

to X.

the corresponding points between the small and large pattern into ten equal parts

and number each division according

to size.

THE FOREPART. Copy lines

the forepart of the 48 breast pattern

on a

stiff

paper; also

mark

the breast

and waist

and the pockets. Place the front of the 38 breast pattern on the 48 front, with breast line on breast Mark the small pattern on the large one; also

front of armscye to front of armscye.

line,

and

mark

the

small pockets on the large pattern.

shown from L to L, K to K, R to R, S to S, T to T, Q, P to P, O to O, and N to N, and make as many more lines as desired so as to ensure perfect lines; and divide them all into ten equal parts and number

Now

U

U, 6

to

connect

all

the grading points as

to 6, J to J, 5 to 5,

Q

to

them.

Now

place the graded backpart on a paper

Prick through

Do

all

points

this to all backparts,

marked 39 and

and mark the centre seam.

trace out the backpart with the 38 pattern.

always tracing them with the next smaller pattern.

THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through

Do

the

all

mark

the front of armscye.

marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. 40 forepart, and trace it with the 39 pattern and so on

points

same with the

until finished.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

Tl

PIAGRAM

13.

35

tX


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

36

Double-Breasted Sack Coat THE BACKPART. line

Place the backpart of a 33 breast pattern on the backpart of a 43 pattern, with the breast Mark the small back on the large one. line, and centre seam to centre seam.

on breast

Draw parts and

from

lines

Divide

D

to D,

E

to E,

B

F

to B,

to F,

C

to C,

the corresponding points between the small

all

number each

G

to G,

X

X

to

and

and large patterns

I

to

I.

into ten equal

division according to size.

THE FOREPART. Copy

forepart of the 43 breast pattern on a

the

stiff

paper

;

also

mark

the breast and waist

and pockets.

lines

Place the front of the 33 breast pattern on the 43 front, with breast line on breast Mark the small pattern on the large one; also

front of armscye to front of armscye.

line,

and

mark

the

small pockets on the large pattern.

Now

U

connect

all

the grading points as

shown

from'

L

to L,

O

K to

K,

R

to R,

S

to S,

T

to T,

N

to O, and to N, and make as many more J to J, 5 to 5, Q to Q, P to P, lines as desired so as to ensure perfect lines; and divide them all into ten equal parts and to

U, 6 to

6,

number them.

Now

place the graded backpart on a paper

Prick through

Do

all

points

this to all backparts,

marked 34 and

and mark the centre seam.

trace out the backpart with the 33 pattern.

always tracing them with the next smaller pattern.

THE FOREPART. mark

Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through

Do

the

all

marked 34 and 35 forepart, and

points

same with the

the front of armscye.

trace

it

out with the ^^ pattern.

trace

it

with the 34 pattern and so on until finished.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

14.

37


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

38

How This grade

to is

Make a Double Grade

made from 34

to

for a Frock

Coat

42 breast.

THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 34 size frock coat on a 42 centre seam to centre seam. Mark the small pattern on the large one. lines

Now

divide

D—

A—

with breast

all

on breast

line

F— F, C— C, G— G

B—

E—

D, E, A, B, the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and

connecting points

Draw

size,

line,

and

and

i— i.

number them according

to sizes.

THE SIDEBODY. Place the 34 sidebody on the 4-2 size, with breast line on breast line, keeping them even at line 8—9, mark the small sidebody on the large one U, and draw as many more lines as you Draw lines connecting points I— I, Y Y, and parts graded. like so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the

U—

THE FOREPART. Copy the forepart

of the 42 breast size on a

stiff

Place the forepart of tlie 34 breast size upon armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern upon the large one.

Draw

—O

lines

connectuig points

and draw as many more

;

Divide

all

it,

paper and mark the breast and waist

lines.

with breast line on breast line and front of

L-L, K-K, R-R, S-S, T-T, J-J, Q-Q, P-P,

lines as desired to

and

O

ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts.

connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them. the pockets proceed as follows:

To mark Mark the

regular breast pocket on tlie 42 copy, and mark the regular pocket on the 34 forewhich mark the breast pocket of the small pattern on the 42 copy and divide the difference between the large and small pockets into 8 equal parts and number them.

part, after

THE

SKIRT.

Place the 34 size skirt on the 42 size keeping them even as at 10 on the large one.

Point 7

is

where the

Connect points

S

—5

Mark

7.

the small skirt

skirts diverge.

and 6

—6 and

divide the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and

number

them.

This finishes the grade. Now beginning with tlie backpart. mark the

marked

centre

seam and prick through

all

points

35.

Remove Repeat

and trace out the 35 with the 34 pattern. same way marking out the 36 size and tracing it out with the 35 backpart.

the graded backpart in the

THE SIDEBODY. Place the graded sidebody on a paper and

mark

bodies diverge), through 8 to 9. Prick through all points marked 35 and trace

it

as from star (which

is

where the two

side-

out with the 34 partem.

THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on

-a

paper and mark the front of the armscye.

all places marked 35 and trace Repeat the same, marking the 36 and tracing

Pridv through

it it

out with the 34 pattern. out with the 35 pattern, and so on until

finished.

THE Place the graded

down

skirt

SKIRT.

on a paper and mark from 7 where the

Prick through at 5 and 6 at places marked 33 all

t%vo skirts diverge to

10,

the front edge and the bottom.

points meet at 7.

:

and trace

it

out with the 34 skirt pattern, making


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

15.

39


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

40

How

Make a Double Grade

to

This grade

is

made from 38

to

Coat

for a Stout Frock

48 breast.

THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 38 size frock coat on a 48 seam to centre seam.

size,

with breast line on breast

and

line,

centre

Mark Draw

on the large one.

the small pattern

connecting points

lines

Now

divide

all

A—A, D—D, E —E, F— F, C— C, G— G, and

the connecting lines into 10 equal parts

and

i

i.

number them according

to

sizes.

THE SIDEBODY. line

Place the 38 sidebody on the 48 size, with breast line on breast 8 ^ mark tlie small sidebody on the large one.

you

like so as to

line,

keeping them even at

;

Draw

X—

I I, Y Y, X, and U U, and draw as ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded.

connecting points

lines

many more

lines as

THE FOREPART. Copy

the forepart of the 48 breast size on a stiff paper and mark the breast and waistlines. Place the forepart of the 38 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of

armscye

to front

of armscye.

Mark the small pattern upon the large copy. Draw lines connecting points L— L, K— K, R—R, O; and draw as many more lines as desired to ensure Divide

Now

all

S— S, T— T, J—J, Q— Q, P— P,

and

O

perfect uniformity of the foreparts.

connecting lines into 10 equal parts and

number them.

beginning with the backpart

Mark the centre seam and prick through all points marked 39. Remove the graded backpart and trace out the 39 with the 38 pattern. Repeat in the same way marking out the 40 size and tracing it out with

the 39 backpart.

THE SIDEBODY. Place the graded sidebody on a paper and bodies diverge), through 8 to

Prick through

all

jxiints

mark

as

trace

it

from

star,

(which

is

where the two

side-

9.

marked 39 and

out with the 38 pattern.

THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a paper and

Repeat the finished.

mark

the front of the armscye.

marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. same, marking the 40 and tracing it out with the 39 pattern, and

Prick through

all

places

so on until


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

i6.

4i


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

42

How

Make

to

a Double Grade for a Double-Breasted

1

Frock This grade

made from

is

a 38 to 44 breast.

THE BACKPART. Place the backpart of a 38 size frock coat on a 44 centre

seam

Mark Draw

Now

size,

with breast line on breast

line,

and

to centre seam.

the small pattern on the large one.

connecting points

lines

divide

all

A—A, D— D, E— E, B —B, F— F, C—C, G— G,

the connecting lines into 6 equal parts and

and

number them according

i

i.

to sizes.

THE SIDEBODY. Place the 38 sidebody on the 44 size, with breast line on breast line 8 9, mark the small sidebody on the large one.

Draw you

Y—

Keeping them even

U— U

X—

X and and draw as Y, I, ensure perfect uniformity of the parts graded.

lines connecting points I

like so as to

line.

many more

at

lines as

THE FOREPART. 44 breast size on a Place the forepart of the 38 breast size upon armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern upon the large copy.

Copy the forepart of

Draw

O— O;

the

lines connecting points

and draw as many more

Divide

all

stiff it,

paper and mark the breast and waist

L—L, K— K, R— R, S— S, T—T, J—J, Q—Q, P—P,

lines as desired to

lines.

with breast line on breast line and front of

and

ensure perfect uniformity of the foreparts.

connecting lines into 6 equal parts and number them.

THE

SKIRT.

Place the 38 size skirt on the 44 size, keeping them even at star, which is half way between Mark tlie small skirt on the large one. 5 and 7. Connect points 5 5, 6 6, 7 7 and 8 8 and divide the connecting lines into 6 equal parts

— —

and number them.

THE REVER. Place the rever of the 38 coat on the 44 rever, keeping them even on the straight line and bottom; connect points 9 9, and 10 10 and divide them into 6 equal parts.

Now marked

beginning with the backpart, mark the

centre

seam and prick through

all

points

39.

Remove Repeat

the graded backpart

and trace out the 39 with the 38 pattern. same way marking out the 40 size and tracing it out with the 39 backpart.

in the

THE SIDEBODY. Place the graded sidebody on a paper and bodies diverge through 8 to 9. Prick through

all

points

marked 39 and

mark

trace

it

as

from

star,

which

is

where the two

side-

out with the 38 pattern.

THE FOREPART. mark the front of the armscye. marked 39 and trace it out with the 38 pattern. Repeat the same, marking the 40 and tracing it out with the 39 pattern, and Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through

all

places

so

on

until fin-

ished.

THE

SKIRT.

Place the graded skirt on a paper and mark across the top as from 5 through the star to 7. Prick through at 5 6 7 8 at places marked 39. Remove the grade and trace out with

———

the 38 pattern.

Do

the

same with the 40 and trace out with

ished.

The

rever

is

cut out the

same

as the other parts.

the 39 pattern

and so on

until fin-


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

I

DIAGRAM

17.

43


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

44

How to

Make a Double Grade

Coat

for a Dress

This grade is made from 34 to 42 breast. This grade being made the same as the other double grade frock coats,

it

is

only necessary

to describe the foreparts.

THE FOREPART. the forepart of the 42 breast size dress coat on a stiff paper and mark the breast line. Place the forepart of the 34 breast size upon it, with breast line on breast line and front of

Copy

armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern upon the large copy.

Draw

lines

0—0. Points 3 fish is cut

connecting points I^-L,

—M

is

where the

V

is

K— K, R— R, S— S, T— T, J— Q— Q, P— P, J,

cut out of the gorge,

out at the waist.

Connect points Divide

all

11— 11, 12—12, and

13

13, also

and points

M— M

connecting lines into eight equal parts and

and

11

— 12— 13

is

and

where the

3— 3.

number them.

mark the front of the armscye. marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. same, marking the 36 and tracing it out with the 35 pattern, and

Place the graded forepart on a paper and Prick through

Repeat the finished.

all

places

so on until


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

1

8.

45


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

46

The The The

Sleeve

sleeves are graded as follows;

coats being graded,

measure the armscye of the smaller pattern and

also the

armscye

of the largest pattern and cut a sleeve for each coat.

HOW TO

GRADE.

These sleeves are graded from 34 to 42. Place the top sleeve of the 34 pattern on the top sleeve of the 42, the sleeves to lay even at O A, so that the front notch will come together on both sleeves. Mark the small pattern on the large one. Draw lines connecting E E, C C, B B and A A. Put in other lines as at F F, G G, and H H, so as to ensure perfect uniformity of the patterns. Divide all connecting lines into eight equal portions and number them according to sizes.

THE UNDERSLEEVE. Place the undersleeve of the 42 size on a

stiff

paper and trace

it

out.

Place the undersleeve of the 34 pattern on the 42 undersleeve. Keep them even at points N J. Mark the small undersleeve on the large one.

Now

connect points

Divide

Now

the

all

N — N,

— —J

J

;

also connect at the elbow at

M — M and

P— P.

connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them.

place the graded top sleeve on a sheet of paper

and mark as from I (which is where and from O to A. Prick th.'f ugh all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36 and trace it out with the

two

sleeves diverge), to point

O

35 pattern.

THE UNDERSLEEVE. N

Place the graded undersleeve on a paper and mark as from to J. Prick through all points marked 35 and trace it out with the 34 pattern. Continue in the same way pricking through all points marked 36, and tracing 35 pattern, and so on until finished, always tracing out with the next smaller

it

size.

out with the


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

19.

47


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

48

How The grading of Cut a

collars

Grade Collars

to

ought to be well understood after the description of the other grades.

collar for the smallest pattern

and one for the

largest pattern.

Place the small pattern on top of the large one, the crease line as at point

Draw

lines

as the difference the

same way

always tracing

as it

A

to meet.

connecting the small collar with the large one, divide them into as is

all

many

parts

between the smallest and the largest pattern, number them, cut them out in double grades are cut, beginning with the next to the smallest collar and

out with the smaller

size.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

20.

49


A

50

M ERIC AN PATTERN- GRADER

The How This grade

is

to

made from 34

Double Grade Two

Grade Vests from

Patterns

inches to 42 inches breast.

Place the backpart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on a 42 inch back pattern with breast line on breast line and centre seam to center seam. Mark the small pattern on the large one.

Draw

G — G;

lines

connecting

also connect the

equal parts, and

grading points as from A A, as at D D, and divide

all

two armscyes

B

— B, C—C, E—E, F— F,

all

and

the grading points into eight

number them.

THE FOREPART. Trace out the forepart of a 42 inch breast waistcoat on a paper lines,

;

mark

the breast

and waist

also the pockets.

Now

place the forepart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on the 42 forepart with breast line

and front of armscye to front of armscye; mark the small pattern on the large one; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. on breast

line,

— —

— M—

N'ow draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J J, L L, M, O O, and I I also connect the pockets as from S S, R R, Q Q, and P P. Put in as many extra lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. Divide all the connecting lines into 8 equal parts and number them. This finishes the grade.

;

Now, beginning with through

all

points

Remove Continue

marked

the backpart,

mark the

centre

seam and bottom,

after

which prick

35.

and trace out the 35 backpart with the 34 pattern. same way with the 36, tracing it out with the 35 pattern.

the grade in

the

THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and sc>c, the side of tlie forepart

mark around

the lower part of the arm-

and part of the bottom, after which prick through

all

35-

Remove Continue

the grade and trace out with the 34 pattern. in the

same way, always tracing out. with the next smaller pattern.

places

marked


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

21.

51


M E RICA i\

A

GRADER

N

PA TTBR

The Double Grade How

from two

to grade stout vests

This grade

is

made from 38

patterns.

inches to 48 inches breast.

Place the backpart of a 38 inch breast waistcoat on a 48 inch back pattern with breast line on Mark the small pattern on the large one.

breast hne and centre seam to centre seam.

Draw

G—G

;

connecting

lines

also connect the

equal parts, and

all

A A, and divide

grading points as from

two armscyes as

at

D— D,

B — B, C—C, E — E, F— F,

and

the grading points

ten

all

into

number them.

THE FOREPART. Trace out the forepart of a 48 inch breast waistcoat on a paper; mark the breast and waist lines also the pockets.

Now on breast

place the forepart of a 38 inch breast waistcoat on

and front of armscye

line,

with breast line

forepart

the 48

Mark

to front of armscye.

small pattern on the large

the

one; also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern.

Now and

I

I

Put

;

draw connecting

lines

many more

in as

Divide

all

— L—L, M — M, O— O, — P.

between the two foreparts as from J from S S, R R, Q Q, and P

also connect the pockets as lines as

you

like so as to

J,

ensure perfect uniformity.

the connecting lines into ten equal ])arts and

number them.

This finishes the

grade.

Now

beginning with the backpart.

Mark the centre seam and tottom, after which prick through Remove the grade and trace out the 39 backpart with the 38 Continue with the 40

in the

same way, tracing

it

all

points

marked

39.

pattern.

out with the 39 pattern.

THE FOREPART. Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of scye, the side of the forepart

marked

and part of the bottom,

after

which

prick

through

39.

Remove Continue

the grade and trace out with the 38 pattern. in the

same way, always tracing out with

the next smaller pattern.

tlie

all

arm-

places


A

M ER

I

CA N P

ATT RRX GRADER

DIAGRAM

22

53


— AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

54

\~\oyv

to

Grade a Double-Breasted

Two The double grade coats, except lines

L

from

Patterns

for the double breasted waistcoat

—V,

NA^aistcoat

which shows the centre of

is

made

the same as the other waist-

lap.

Trace out the forepart of a 42 inch breast waistcoat on a paper

;

mark

the breast

and waist

lines, also the pockets.

Now place the forepart of a 34 inch breast waistcoat on the 42 forepart with breast line on breast line, and front of armscye to front of armscye. Mark the small pattern on the large one also prick through the pockets of the small waistcoat on the large pattern. M, O O, Now draw connecting lines between the two foreparts as from J J, L L, and I I; also connect the pockets as from S S, R R, Q Q, and P P. Put in as many more lines as you like so as to ensure perfect uniformity. Divide all the connecting lines into eight equal parts and number them. This finishes the ;

— —

— M

grade.

Place the graded forepart on a sheet of paper and mark around the lower part of the armand part of the bottom, after which prick through all places marked

scye, the side of the forepart 35-

Remove Continue

the grade and trace out with the 34 pattern. in the same way always tracing o.it with the next smaller pattern.


AM

E

h'

I

C

.1 .\

PATTER N GRADER

DIAGRAM

23.

55


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

56

How

to

Grade Trousers

These trousers are graded between 34 and 40

seat.

THE FOREPART.

B G on and centre line on centre line. If the trousers have no centre line, a centre line may be drawn in the following manner; Point E is half way between D and L and the double circle line is half way between B and G. Draw a line from E through the double circle. Now place centre line on centre line. Draw lines connecting the smallest with the largest pattern, as from A to A, I to I, B to B, C to C, D to D, L to L, K to K, G to G, J to J, and H to H. Divide all connecting lines into 6 equal part.s and number them. Place the forepart of a 34 size pattern on the forepart of a 40 pattern with lines

lines

B

—G,

THE BACKPART. Place the 34 backpart on the 40 backpart, keeping them even at the side seam. Connect points Q, R, S— S, O, M, N, T, U, P,

M—

W—W.

Divide

N—

O—

P—

Q—

If the side it

Now

as explained here, or

seams of the smallest and largest backparts are even, it if the side seams do not come out even

saves time, but

half and half the

it

same way

and so on

it

may

be graded half

is

best to grade in this

it

is

best to grade

them

marked 35 and

trace

as the foreparts are graded.

place the graded foreparts on a paper; prick through

out with a 34 pattern. Continue in the same

the 35 pattern

\'— V, and

connecting lines into 6 equal portions and number them.

all

The backpart may be graded either in the way and half in the same way as the forepart is. way because

T— U—

R—

way

pricking through

all

points

all

points

marked 36 and

them out with

trace

until finished.

THE BACKPART. Place the graded backpart on a piece of paper and trace all ]X)ints

marked 35 and

If the

forepart.

backpart

is

down

the side

out with the 34 pattern. graded half and half then it must be cut out trace

seam

;

prick through

it

in

the

same way

as the


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

24.

57


:

:

:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER Block

5ÂŤ

How

and

Patterns

Them

Use

to

In the use of block patterns, the various attitudes are divided into three degrees, i.e., the shghtly erect, the erect and the over-erect the slightly stooping, the stooping and the very stoop;

ing (the hunchback

is

not considered in the stooping class)

;

the slightly sloping, the sloping and

normal, the square and the high shoulder's. To meet these attitudes, use 34 inch for each degree in the following manner: For instance, if your order calls for a coat or a waistcoat for a slightly stooping figure,

the very sloping shoulders

means

;

that the scye depth

the.

is

to be lengthened

add

If the figure is described as stooping

amount from

J4 inch

to be left as

"^

it

it is.

and deduct the same

>4 inch to the scye depth

This makes the back part

the strap.

and the strap

inch longer than the forepart.

very stooping, add ys inch to the scye depth, and deduct the This makes }i inch difTerence between the back and forepart. the rule for the erect. If the figure is described as slightly erect, reduce the

If the figure is described as

same amount from the

The

reverse

%

scye depth

is

strap.

inch and leave the strap as

part

1/2

inch longer than the backpart.

is.

it

If erect, reduce the scye depth J4 inch

and add the same

to the strap,

which makes the foreinch, and add the

If over-erect, reduce the scye depth

%

same to the strap, which again makes up three degrees. For the sloping shoulder, add ^4 inch to both scye depth, and strap for each degree, and for the square shoulders, reduce >4 inch from both scye depth and strap for each degree, of course the various heights must be considered, and these will be explained in connection with the proportion table on the first and second diagrams of How To Use Block Patterns.

DIAGRAM The measurements given

for

25

patterns are usually in the following

block

30 inches

Sleeve

Breast over vest

38 inches

Height

Waist

34 inches

Figure

Hip

40 inches

Shoulders

By

we

manner 31 inches

Coat length

4 inches

5 feet

Normal Normal

9

inches

measures as follows: Overshoulder

16

inches

Blade (actual)

17^ 11^

inches

Waist length Strap

I2j^ inches

To which add

i^

inches

consulting the proportion table,

Scye depth

find the short

Total Select a block pattern to correspond w^ith the breast

13

inches

inches

measure of your order and proceed as

follows

M

From is

to

B

is

the scye depth for a 38 breast, 5 feet 4 inches in height, plus }i inch, which

g}i inches.

Move the backpart down to B and keeping even at the centre seam, mark from B to D. From E to F is ^ the distance of A to B. Turn the back shoulder and mark from D to

F.

THE FOREPART. same as from A tp B.

From I to J and K to L are the From G to H is the same as from E to F on backpart. Move the pattern down, keeping it even at the front edge, and mark from the front shoulder and shape

from

H

to J

and

SLEEVES'-DIAGRAM The

J to L.

Turn

finish.

26

sleeves are used as follows

Measure the upper part of the armscye from 6, which is the notch, to F, and from 5, which H in this case, the measure is gyi inches. Now select the sleeve to correspond with the pattern used, and draw a line from i (which

is

the front notch, to

is

the front notch) to

From

to 2

;

2.

gyi inches. Reshape the top of sleeve as per broken

Now ure

I

is

measure the width of back from 6

down

to 3, full length plus

Move

the pattern

up

to 3,

^

line.

to the centre seam, apply the

amount

to 2,

inch.

keeping

it

even at the front of sleeve and re-shape.

and meas-


/i

MERICAN PATTERN GRADER

59


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

(X,

DIAGRAM The measurements

27

follows:

are as

Full length

32>4 inches

Breast over vest

38

34 inches feet 6

Sleeve

inches

Height

Waist

34

inches

Figure

Hip

40

inches

Shoulders

By

consulting the proportion table,

we

Normal Normal measurements

find the short

as follows:

Scve depth

10

inches

Overshoulder

18^

Waist length

18

inches

Blade

1

Strap

133^ inches

Add

for

make-up

i>^ inches

Total

Measure from

M

to

A

from

to C.

Turn

13 inches

A, the scye depth, plus 3^ inch, which

From F to E is >^ the distance from A to Move the backpart up to A and keeping the back pattern and

inches

1>4 inches

is

10%

inches.

B.

the back pattern even at the centre seam,

mark from C

to

E

and

mark

finish.

THE FOREPART. K

same distance as from B to A. and keeping it even at front edge, mark from I to K Turn the front shoulder and shape it from I to G. inch less than C to E. The waist length and full length are measured From I to G is

From Move

J to I and L to the pattern up to

are the

K

;

%

out in the regular way.

THE SLEEVE'^^DIAGRAM Measure the upper part of armscye from 6

to E,

and

28

5 to G, in this case the

measure

is

9^

inches.

Now

take the same sleeve pattern and measure from

of sleeve from

Measure the back width from 6

down

to 3 for full length plus

Move

i

to 2, 9)4 inches.

Re-shape the top

2.

the pattern

down

^

to 3,

to the centre seam.

Apply the amount

to 2

and measure

inch.

keeping

it

even

at the front

and re-shape as per broken

line.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

6i


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

62

Block

Patterns

and

How

Them

Use

to

This will show how to change a pattern from a normal to an erect figure. must be classified into at least two degrees, i.e., the erect and over-erect. For the erect figure the change is made as follows (see diagram 29)

The

erect figure

:

Shorten the back scye from 14 to 15, 16 to 17 and 18 to 19, say J4 inch. Raise the forepart or lengthen the strap from 22 to 23, 54 inch add the same ;

20 to 21 and from 24 to 25

The

over-erect

whose back

is

The change 5.

is

small or is

;

reshape as per broken

the figure that not alone walks flat

and whose chest

therefore

made

%

inch from

lines.

erect

with shoulders thrown back, but

is full.

as follows (see

Reduce the backpart from 2 to i and 4 to 3, 8 to 7 and 10 to 9 re-shape as per broken line.

^

Diagram 30) inch

;

:

also reduce the

same amount from 6

to

;

THE FOREPART. Reduce

"he side

seam of the forepart from 20

to 19

and 18

to 17, J4 inch.

This makes the

coat y2 inch smaller at the side.

^

Now add inch at the front edge of the forepart as from 16 to 15 all the way down; also add 34 inch from 14 to 13 and form 12 to 11 and re-shape. Cut out a V at the gorge and finish.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

63


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

64

Block

Patterns

DIAGRAM

33

The Hunchback There

is

no

changing a pattern from a normal to a hunchback, for the reason

set rule for

that the largest part of the

hump

is

not always in the

centre of the back, but in a general

way

the pattern

same

neither

place,

may

be

fixed

as

is

always in the

it

follows:

measure and height. Split the backfrom A to B say ^ inch or i inch if the hump is very prominent, after which reduce the same amount from C to D and E to F and re-shape to G. Select

the

part and open

pattern corresponding with the breast

it

as

THE FOREPART. H

Reduce the forepart from

and

to J

K

L

to

the

same amount

from C

as

to

D

on the

backpart.

Move

^

down

the pattern

inch less than

F

to

G

to points J

—L

and re-shape as per broken

DIAGRAM Normal Reduce the backpart from

Move

the backpart

line.

down

Reduce the forepart from the pattern J to

H

is

down

^

J to

A

to

Figure,

B

^

to points

34

Square Shoulders

inch and from

B

—D

C

to

D

the same.

and re-shape as from B

D

to

and

THE FOREPART. Move From

From

on backpart.

I

to J

to J

M

inch and from

—L and trace out

inch less than

D

to E.

;

K

to

L

also trace out

the same.

from

Finish as per broken

G

line.

to J.

D

to E.

M

is


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

65


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

66

DIAGPvAM

31

Figure Stcxjping, Shoulders

Normal

THE BACKPART. Add from A to B and C to D >4 inch. Move the backpart up to points B D and

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

trace out from

B

to

D

and

D

to L.

THE FOREPART. E to F and G to H J4 inch. Move the forepart down to F H, and trace out from J From F to J is Yi inch less than D to L. Reduce the forepart from

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

DIAGRAM

to

F

F to H

and

broken

line.

32

Stooping Figures with Flat Chest, Shoulders

Normal

THE BACKPART Add from A

to B,

C

to

D,

E

to F,

G

H

to

and

I

to J

'4

"ich and reshape as per broken

line.

THE FOREPART Add

to the side of

Reduce the forepart seams, which

is

J-S

Reduce from

From

N

to

P

forepart at tlie

%

inch as from

front edge the

K

to L.

same amount that has been added

to

the side

inch.

M

to

N,

is

^

inch less than

O

to

P and R

D

to

to

Q

F on

34

inch.

backpart.

Reshape

as per

broken

line.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

67


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

68

DIAGRAM

35

Figure Erect, Shoulders Square

Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D Reduce the forepart from F to H ^ inch. From H to G on forepart is y& inch less thin

^

inch,

D

to

and re-shape

E

to E.

on backpart; re-shape

as per broken

line.

DIAGPvAM

36

Stooping Figure, Squau-e Shoulder

These ing figure

figures are usually built with large blades flat

normal blade

chest), but the actual change for the is

made

and

flat chest.

(

stooping figure,

See diagram showing stoopsquare shoulders with the

as follows

Leave the backpart re-shape from 5.

as

it

is

and reduce the forepart from

i

to 2

and 3 to

4,

>:4

or

^

inch and


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

69


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

70

DIAGRAM Normal

37

Figure, Sloping Shoulders

THE BACKPART. Add from B to A 5^ inch and from D to C the same. Move the backpart up to A C and re-shape as to E.

THE FOREPART. Add from J to I 5^ Move the pattern up From

I to

G

is

inch and from

L

to

K

the same.

—K and re-shape.

to I

fi inch less than

C

to E.

Finish as per broken

DIAGKAM

line.

38

Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect

THE BACKPART. Add

to the scye depth

^

inch from

A

to

B and C

to D.

Re-shape as per broken

E.

THE FOREPART. Add

^

inch from

H

to J

and

F

to G.

Re-shape as per broken

line to point

K.

line to


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

71


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

72

DIAGRAM

39

Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulders

THE BACKPART. Raise the backpart from C.

Re-shape to

E

A

to

B and C

to

D ^

inch.

From B

to

D

is

the

same as

as per broken line.

THE FOREPART. Raise the forepart from

H

Add

G

y4 inch

from F

to

to

I

^4 i"ch.

and re-shape as per broken

DIAGKAM How Add from D

to

Sweep from B

From B

to

C

Increase

to

E 34 inch for every C pivoting at A.

line.

40 the

Waist

inch addition to the waist.

to

is

5^ the

amount of from

D

to E.

Re-shape as per broken hne.

A

to


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

73


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

74

DIAGRAM

How

41

Decrease the Waist Size

to

Reduce from D to E, % inch for every inch the waist Sweep from B to C pivoting at A. Advance from B to C the amount of D E.

^

Place the forepart to points

Add from F

to

G

the

H— E

to be reduced.

and reshape.

same amount as the front edge

DIAGRAM

How

is

to Exaggerate a

reduced at the bottom.

is

42

Coat from a Block Pattern

THE BACK. Mark around

the back

from

A

to

K

and from

K

down

to L.

Add from B to C ^ inch for every inch exaggeration, in this case yi inch From F to G is the same as B to C. From D to E is the same as B to C. Move the pattern, the side seam to touch at G C and E, and reshape.

for 2 inches.

THE FOREPART. Add from H to L on forepart From J to R and O to M are edge to touch at

R— I

and reshape.

the

the

same as from B same as from H

to to

C I.

on backpart.

Move

the pattern forwards, the front


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

75


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

7^

How

Make

to

DIAGRAM E>rop the gorge >4 inch at A. inches and from

Add from B to C 2j4 From E to G is I inch.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;G

Place the square to points F Re-shape as per broken line.

Make

to

D

to

E

from

a

Pattern

Single-Breasted

How

Forepart

a Double-Breasted

43

the same.

and square down to H.

a Norfolk Coat from an Ordinary

Sack Coat Pattern DIAGRAM After the pattern

is

44

cut out as usual, proceed as follows:

THE BACKPART. Point

F

is

half

way between

cut the back through as

same

E

and G; from E to A is i% inches; G to B is the same; a seam to the lower portion of the back and add the

now add

;

to the yoke.

The and J from

marked

;

I

forepart

from to

H to

D; add

is

made

in the

same way.

K

D

From

K

to J

is

i

inch;

I

is

half

way between

cut the pattern through as from is the same to J^ inch a seam to the lower part of the front and the same to the yoke..

C

is

;

;

C

to

I

H

and


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

77


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

78

DIAGRAM

How

to Increase the

45.

Waist Length

in

a Frock Coat

Apply the waist length desired as from O to B. From C to D is the same as from A to B. Move the back pattern down to D and re-shape.

B—

THE SIDEBODY. From E to F and G to H are the same Move the sidebody down to F H and

as

from

A

to B.

re-shape.

THE FOREPART. From Move

K

to L are the same as to H. J and the front pattern down to J L, keeping it even at the front edge

I to

G

and re-shape.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

How

to

79

46.

Shorten the Waist of a

Frock Coat

Apply the waist length desired from O to B. From C to D is the same as from A to B. Move the backpart up to B D and re-shape.

THE SIDEBODY. From E to F and G to H are the same as from Move the sidebody up to H F and re-shape.

A

to B.

THE FOREPART. From Move

to L are the same as G to H. to J and L, keeping it even at the front edge and re-shape. the front pattern up to J

I

K


8o

/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

47.

Frock Coat for Stooping Figure, Shoulders Normal THE BACKPART. Add from A to B and C to D >4 inch. Move the backpart up to points B D and

trace out from

D

B

to

to

F and F

and

D

to

J.

THE FOREPART. E to F and G to H J/4 inch. Move the forepart down to F H, and trace out from N From F to N is Yf, inch less than D to J.

Reduce the forepart from

to

H

broken

line.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

48.

Frock Coat for Stooping Figure with Flat Shoulders

Chest,

Normal

THE BACKPART. Add from A to B and C to D, ^4 inch. Add at E and F the same and re-shape.

H

Add

%

Add

to the side of forepart

Reduce

inch at

G

and

THE SIDEBODY. at H and and THE FOREPART.

and the same

%

I,

re-shape.

inch at J and K.

the forepart at the front edge the

seams which is j4 inch. Reduce from R to S and P to Q, 34 Reduce the same at T and re-shape,

same amount

inch.

that

has been added to the side


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

49.

Frock Coat for Hunchback pattern corresponding with the breast measure and height. Split the backpart from A to B say fi inch or i inch if the hump is very prominent, after which reduce the same amount from C to D and E to F and reshape to G. the

Select

and open

it

as

THE FOREPART. Reduce from

From

K

to

L

H is

to J the same as C to the same as to J.

Place the pattern to points

From

J to

M

is

D

on backpart.

H

L â&#x20AC;&#x201D;J

's inch less than

and trace out also trace out the shoulder from J to N. F to G on backpart. Reshape as per broken line. :


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

83

50.

Frock Coat for Over Erect Figure, Shoulders Normal THE BACKPART. Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D, K '"ch. Reduce at E and G Ys, inch and re-shape as per broken

line.

THE SIDEBODY. Reduce Reduce

at

the

F and

19,

H

inch.

same amount from 19

to 20

and re-shape.

THE FOREPART. Reduce the forepart at 16 and 21 Add from 12 to 13 and 15 to 14

Yg inch. J4

inch,

which

is

the

amount

the sidebody

forepart have been reduced.

Add from 6

to 7

and 8

to

9

%

inch and reshape as per broken

line.

and

side of


J

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

How

Make a Square

to

Shouldered

Out

Inverness

of a Kegular Overcoat Select an overcoat pattern of the size required

and proceed as follows:

THE BACKPART. Reduce the backpart from B

to

A

D

and

to

C

until the side

seam

is

straight.

THE FOREPART.

M to N and P to Extend the breast line

Add from

D

to C.

From

K

to

R

is

Square back from

and

finish.

to If

to J

is is

same amount as

the

the backpart

is

reduced from

B

to

A

and

as to U.

the sleeve length.

Sweep from R forward From S to T is I inch.

From G From G

Q

L

to

S and back

From

K

to

to

L

U, pivoting

is

at F.

3 inches.

and shape the armscye from G through H and back to O. Sweep from G to J, pivoting at H. inches. Draw a line from U to J. Add 34 inch rounding

'4 breast. I J/^

to line

Uâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

51.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

86

How How

Use Block

to

Make a Round

to

Patterns

Shouldered

Inverness

Out

of a Regular Overcoat Pattern Select an overcoat pattern of the size required

and proceed as follows:

THE BACKPART. From

A

to

B

1^4 inches.

is

Shape the backpart through B and the notch as

THE

indicated.

CAPE.

M

M

From E to is 3/2 breast. Draw a line from to and K. From N to O is iJ4 inches. inch. Shape the cape from AI through O and L to J. Now mark arotmd K to L is From E to P is the the pattern from J to T, around the gorge and down the front edge. Sweep from P forwards to R and back to Q, pivoting at T. From R to S is sleeve length. from

E

way between

M

Extend the breast

K.

Point

N

is

half

line

back.

M

I

inch.

Re-shape as indicated.

THE FOREPART. G.

From E From C

to

F

to

D

is

3J2 inches.

on backpart

is

Square back from F to G. Shape the armscye from J to same as H to G on forepart. Notch the back at D.

the


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

52.

87


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

88

Cape

Circular Square down and out from B.

Take overcoat pattern of

A —C

;

pitch to touch as at point 4

forepart from 4 to

Point 24

%

the size required

is

i

;

mark around

and from

B

the back as

where the notch comes on the forepart

Reduce the cape

way between

pivoting at

O

;

from

A

from

at the front

and 24

C

to

;

E

edge at 24

from is

—D

A

to

to

Hne

with the back and shoulder

U

and from

U

to 4 and the

to 24.

i

inch and reduce the front shoulder from

lialf

and place the center of back pattern

place the forepart, the front edge to touch at line

A

C

to

Y^ inch

;

Z

i

—Z,

is

i

inch

;

add from

;

U

draw a

line

from

the length of the cape desired

to I

is

i

7 on the backpart

to

same; re-shape as

to 25 the

inch

;

-indicated.

A ;

to

24

;

point

sweep from C

re-shape the cape and

finish.

O

is

to Z,


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

53

89


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

90

DIAGRAM

Shoulder

Cape

Select the overcoat pattern for the size desired

Draw it

as

from

54.

and proceed as follows

Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; C; place the backpart pattern, the edge to touclv at A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; C, and mark around A to D and D to E; line B is the breast line; from B to F is 14 breast; F to G is line

Yi breast

a line from D through G from A to C is the length of the cape desired sweep from H, pivoting at D; from H to I is 2^ inches; from I back to J is i inch; shape the side as indicated from D through E to J and shape the bottom of the cape from C to J.

Draw

C

to

;

;


:

;

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

91

55.

THE FOREPART. The

forepart

is

made

as follows

Place the forepart pattern on a sheet of paper and mark around it as indicated. to C is the same ; from D to breast from A to B is i inch ; From A to D is

%

A

;

C

is

the

same length as D to B; line E is the breast line; from E to O is i inch; O to F is 314 inches; to get J from F to G is >4 breast G to H is ^ breast draw a straight line from C through H to is i inch and from from J to K is I inch sweep from K to L, pivoting at P from L to N is the same; from P to B and C to K of the forepart is K inch more than D to J of the backShape the front of cape and finish as represented. part. ;

;

;

;

M

M


AM ERIC AX PATTERX GRADER

92

DIAGR--^M

56.

Shoulders Normal. Figure Erect

THE BACKPART. Reduce the scye depth y^ inch from

A

to

B and C

to D.

Re-shape as per broken

point E.

THE FOREPART. Add

^

inch from

H

to

G

and

F

to

J.

Re-shape as per broken Hne to

J.

line to


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

57.

Flat Blade, Full Breast

THE BACKPART. Reduce from

A

to

B

>4 inch,

and re-shape

as per broken line to E.

THE FOREPART. Add from O to Reduce from I

P

M

and and

to J

to

N^

K

to

L

inch.

>^ inch

and re-shape

as per broken lines.

93


94

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

58.

Shoulders Square, Figure Erect

THE BACKPART. Reduce the scye depth

%

inch

from

A

to

B and C

to D.

Re-shape as per broken Hne

THE FOREPART. Reduce yi inch from

G

to

H.

Re-shape as per broken

line to point F.

to E.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

Shoulders Sloping,

95

59.

Figure

Erect

THE BACKPART. Add to

to the scye

depth Y^ inch from

B

to

A

and

D

to C.

Then re-shape

E

THE FOREPART. Add

J4 inch

from

H

to G.

Then re-shape as per broken

line to F.

as per broken lina


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

96

DIAGRAM

Stooping Figure,

60.

Normal Shoulders

THE BACKPART. Add from A to From B to D is

C

to

same

as

B, and the

D A

34 inch. to C.

Re-shape to point E, as per broken

line.

THE FOREPART. Reduce the forepart from H to I, % inch. Add 34 inch from G to F, and re-shape.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

6i.

Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulder

THE BACKPART. Add from A

to

B and C

to

D

^4 inch

and re-shape

to E.

THE FOREPART. Add from G to F From H to F is

H

54 inch

and from

}i inch

more than from

Re-shape as per broken

line.

I

to

the same.

D

to E.

97


A

MHR

I

C

.•/

.V

PA TTERN

DIACRAM

GRADER

6:

Stooping Figure. Square Shoulders

THE BACKFART. Rctiuce the back from

From n

to

C

is

the

The ilistancc from

D

to

same as .\

to

C

A A is

V4 inch.

to B.

the

same as B

to D.

THE FORErART. From

1

1

to

I

is

'

.<

inch, rc-shape as per

broken

line.

Ro-shapo.


A

A

MER

I

CA

N P

TTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

63.

Large Blade, Flat Breast

THE BACKPART. Add from G to H and I to J >$ inch. Add from E to F J^ inch and re-shape

as per broken

line.

THE FOREPART. Reduce from

M

to

N

and

K

to

L

"/$

inch and re-shape as per broken line.

99


AMERICAN PATTF.RN GRADER

DIAGRAM

A

64.

Vest for a Hunchback THE BACKrART.

Reduce from

A

to

B and E

Split the backpart as

from

to

C

F to

and rc-shape as per broken line to G. and open it until the distance from C to D

inch,

:

H

is

i

inch.

THE FOREPART. Reduce the front shoulders from I

K

to

L

i

inch and re-shape

to L.

From L

to J

is

yz inch

more than F

to G.

Re-shape armscye.

it

as per broken line

from


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

How

Make a

to

Clerical

65.

Waistcoat Out o^ an

Ordinary Pattern Point

A

is

the shoukler point.

Place the square to the breast

line,

and square from

B

to E.

Square from B forward to C.

From B

to

C

is

J/^

breast plus

Shape the front edge from

From C to D B to F is ^

is

J/^

breast plus

breast.

inch.

J/$

C down.

Draw

J/2

incii.

a line from

F

to D,

and shape the gorge.

THE COLLAR. From Draw From Shape

D

to

H

is

a line from

J^ inch.

H through

to J is Y^ inch. the collar from J to

B

to get

L

I

H

and

finish,

making

the height of the

same

as desired.


AMERICAS PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

A

Clergyman's Waistcoat

Point

From

A A

is

the shoulder point.

to

B

is

^

GCy

to

Button on

the

Side

inch.

Place your square to the breast line and square from

P

to E.

%

Square forward from P> to C breast, ])lus lj^ inch. Reduce the front at G and J one seam or '^ inch, and shape the front edge from

C

to

].

L

to

K

From C to D is ^f, breast i)his ^ inch. H to F is >^ breast. Draw a line from F to D and shape the gorge. The collar is made the same as on the ordinary clergyman's vest. The piece for the button .stand is cut as follows; Follow the side of forciwrt. shoulder and armscye as indicated. From P> to K is I inch. L is I'i inches from the side seam. Cut the piece as from

and

finish.

piece.

The buttonholes

are cut in the forepart and

the

buttons are placed on the small


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

How

to

Make

67.

a Doubled- Breasted Vest Out of a SingleBreasted Pattern

Go back from A to B >4 inch, and from E to D Draw a line from B through D to F. From C to J is 3 inches. F to G is V/a inches. Draw a line from J to G. From J to I is ^ inch.

G

to

H

is

103

the same.

Re-shape the gorge and

finish the

bottom.

the same.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

104

DIAGRAM

How

to

Make a

68.

Double-Breasted Dress Waistcoat

Out

of a Single-Breasted Block Pattern From Draw From

5 bade to. 4 is Jl inch. 7 back to 6 a line from 4 through 6 to get 10.

6

is 23/2

to

8

Draw From Draw

10 to 11

lines

5

is

i,'4

inches,

from 8 to

back to 3

is

inches.

and 8 11,

11 to 12

is -)i

is

same.

inch.

^

inch. 9 is and from 9 to 12.

to

>^ breast.

a line from 2 through 3 down. Apply the opening measure plus yi inch from

I

tiie

A

to

B and

2 to 6; and the full length plus

;4 inches to 10.

Sweep from

re-shape as mdicated. 10 to 12 and back, pivoting at 4, and


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

How

to

Make a

Dress Vest

From 6

to s is 3>^ inches. Place the bottom buttonhole at

69.

Out of a Regular

a line from

i

to 3

Pattern

u which •

5.

The

top buttonhole place at pomt

above the waist line. From 2 to 3 is Yb breast.

Draw

105

and shape the gorge.

4,

is

1/

/^

i. inch


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

]o6

DIAGRAM

How

to

Reduce the

70.

Rise; Also

How

to

Shorten or

Lengthen Trousers THE FRONTPART. from A to B as much as desired. From C to D is the same as from A to B. Move the pattern down to B D and measure 34 of waist from B

Reduce the

rise

Reduce the

rise

from

V

to

W

THE BACKPART. and X to Y the same as

How

to

the forepart

Shorten Trousers

Apply the inseam length from the crutch down to H. From E to F is the same as G to H. Move the pattern up to F H and re-shape. From L to and J to K is half the distance of G to H.

M

THE BACKPART. From N to Q and O to P is the same as G to H on forepart. From S to T and R to U are the same as L to M on forepart. Move the back pattern up to P Q and re-shape. To increase the rise and length proceed in the opposite way.

to

D.

is

reduced from

A

to B.


:

:

:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

107

71.

Trousers The

by the seat measure, so

size of trousers is indicated

the pattern corresponding with the seat

To reduce

measure and

in

using block patterns always take

alter as follows

the waist

THE FRONT PARTS. From C

to

B

V

to

W

^

is

of waist measure,

i.

e.,

9 for 36 or 10 for 40; re-shape as per solid

line.

THE BACKPART. From inch

V To

;4 waist plus 2^4 inches, re-shape

is

as

per solid

line,

and take out

a

}i

as indicated.

reduce the knee

F From F Point

is

half

to

I

way between 34 of

is

H

and

knee desired.

J-

F

to

G

is

the same; re-shape as per broken

line.

THE BACKPART. Point

O

is

inch for seams.

To

half

O

way between

to

P

is

the

Q

same

;

and

S.

From O

to

R

is

re-shape.

increase the size of knee proceed in the same manner.

4

of the knee desired plus Yz


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

io8

DIAGRAM

72.

Trousers The

size of trousers is indicated

by the seat measure, so

in using block patterns

always take

the pattern corresponding with the seat measure.

To

increase the waist, proceed as follows:

THE FRONTPARTS. way between

and

Point 9

is

From 9

to 5 is J^ of the full waist,

9 to 2

is

the same.

From Draw

5 to

half

6

a line

is

J< inch

from 2

3

4.

more than 4

to 6

^

i.

e.,

5

for 40.

to 5.

and re-shape as per broken

line.

THE BACKPART. measure is only i or 2 inches larger than the waist measure, leave the and measure as follows: From 7 to 8 is J4 waist plus i inch for seams. Re-shape.

If the seat

the backpart,

V

out of


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

How

109

73.

of a Normal

Make Peg Top Trousers Out

to

Block Pattern proceed as follows: Take a normal pattern with the scat measure corresponding, aiid knee measure required from After measuring and marking the proper lengths appl>' the

NtoE. from F, through E, to get point C, or add from B wanted, and shape from A through C and E down to F.

Draw

a line

to

C

u mch, or as much as ,

.

say

i

THE BACKPART. From

K

to

Shape from

L

G

same as through J and

is

the

H to E on forepart. L down to M.

D

to J

is

the

same

as

B

to

C

on forepart.


R

:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADE

DIAGRAM

How

to

Make Trousers

74.

for a

Bow

Legged Person

Ascertain the amount the legs are together.

bowed by having the person stand with Measure as nearly as you can what space is between the knees and

his

feet

alter

close

your pat-

tern as follows Split the

pattern as from

A

to

B and open

(see diagram

B) from C

to

D

J4 inch for

every inch space between the knees, straighten the inseam by filling it in slightly from E to F. Open the backpart from G to the same as the frontpart is opened from C to D.

H


:

A

MER

1

CA N FA

TT ER N

DIAGRAM

TOE

GRA

DER

75.

IN.

For a man whose toes point inward the crease of the trousers turns outward. alteration on the block pattern should be made as follows inch more or less as may be necessary, and reduce Add from 4 to 5 on the forepart say Re-shape as from A to 3 and P. to 5. the same amount on the outside seam from 2 to 3. broken lines.

The

H

THE BACKPART. to the outside seam from 7 to 6 the same amount Reduce the same amount from 9 to 8 and re-shape

Add 2 to

3.

as the forepart has been re.luced from as per

broken

lines.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

76.

TOE OUT. the

I"r)r

The Add

man whose

alteration

toes ixiint

outward the crease of the trousers

falls to the

inscam.

on the block pattern shoulfi be made as follows:

to the outside seam of forepart from 3 to 2, say }i inch, or as much as necessary. Reduce the same amount from 5 to 4 on the inscam and re-shape as per broken line.

THE BACKPART. Reduce the outside seam of tiie backpart from 6 to 7, the same amount as the forepart is 2, add the same amount from 8 to 9 on the inseani and re-shape as per

increased from 3 to

broken

lines.


//

M

PA T T

UICAN

II

DIAfjRAM

The

for broar]

facinfj

arc cut as

falls

RN C

fi

A'

.ID B

R

"3

78.

follows:

After the side pockets are marked and notclicd on the forepart, mark from

F

to II

is

2>i inches,

The narrow

falls

to J

II

Square back from

D

to

a line from

G

From K Cut

is

is

F

to

(i is

the same.

Shape

tin-

C

D

to

to C.

to

!•"

is

2 inches.

]•'..

II

j^ hicli.

in the forepart

.\

from

II

to

K

is

the same.

to J is the

I) to F,

same,

lJi;iw a line I

(raw a

line

I'mm

irom

and fnish as represented.

I

(j iliroi]j4h

to

I.

to I)

i

incii.

lacing as indicated.

of forepart.,

From F

l*".

214 inches.

to I.

inch,

are cnt as follows:

D — F is the center From D to F is the same

Line

Draw

-'^

is

Is


AM ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER

ii4

DIAGRAM

How

Make

to

79

Knickerbockers from a Regular

Trouser Pattern measure and proceed as follows:

Select a block pattern to correspond with the seat

THE FOREPART. Line

C

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

From C

D to E P

is

the knee length.

is

^J

D

to

is

M

is the same. J to the same.

inches.

2j/$

M to O

4 inches.

is

is

way between E and O.

half

9 is half way between B and H. Eh-aw a line from 9 to P.

From P

to

to

R

is

8 to

L

is

P

N

34 of the calf measure.

is

the same. >4 of small of

knee measure, 8 to S

Draw a line from L to N. From S to T is I inch. R Draw a line from T to Q.

to

Q

H

is

1%

to I

^

is

B

inch.

Shape the forepart as

to

F

is

the same.

the same.

is

inches.

p>er solid line.

THE BACKPART. Line

ii^Y

From Draw From

Y

the knee length.

is

to 2

is

Y

to

from 2 and

Z on backpart

2 to 3 on backpart

O

to

N

on

Draw

W

2 to 7

23^ inches.

lines across

is

the

is

is

4 inches.

7.

the

same as

same

M

to

K

on forepart. as J to on forepart. 7 to 6 on backpart

L

a line from

X

.^

the

same

is J<t

inch.

L

to

T

on forepart and 3 to 4 on back-

part.

Apply the

From

as

to 6.

Shape the inseam as indicated. Apply the small of knee measure plus i mch from to

is

forepart.

V

calf

to

U

measure plus is

I

'4

inches.

i

N to Q on forepart and 6 Shape the backpart and finish.

inch from

to 5

on backpart.


AM EPIC AN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

79.

"5


:

A

DIAGRAM

How

to

M

M ERI C A N PATTERN GRADER

Make Golf

80

Breeches Out of an Ordinary

Block Pattern Select a block pattern to correspond with the seat measure

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

C F is the knee line. From C to D is 5 inches. F

Line

D

way between

to

E

is

the same.

D

a line from

Point

to E.

H

is

half

Square up from H to locate J. J4 of knee measure. J to X is the same.

and E.

From J to M is From B to O is i^ inches. G to P is ^ From H to L is J/ inch. H to K is the From L to I is 34 bottom plus ^4 inch.

K

Draw

and proceed as follows

inch.

same.

K

to lo is the

same.

Cut out a

V

between

L

and

and shape the forepart as indicated.

THE BACKPART.

W

get

is 5 inches. From R to S to X is the same. Draw a line from X to W. Point T is half way between X and Q. From Q to 3 is ;4 of knee plus >< inch.

Q

to 2

is

the same.

From 4 to 5 is ij4 From T to U is 34 Cut out a

From

V

to

U Y

is

\V.

V to

inch.

between

Z

is

J4

the same.

8 to 9

inches.

T

to

V

is is

3^ inch and 6 to 7

the same.

U

and V as indicated. bottom plus inch.

%

Shape the backpart and

finish.

is

the same.

Square up from

T

to


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

80.

117


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

ii8

FIGURE

The Low Figure

on

A

shows a

fault

which

is

A.

Shoulder

caused by one shoulder being lower than the other, as seen

illustration.

side is tight over ^he hip, and the fulness therefrom is carried over to This not alone causes the low side to wrinkle under the arm, but also to

The coat on the low the high shoulder side.

make

the coat

How

hang

to

one

side.

to alter this defect, see

Ascertain the difference

in

Diagram A.

the shoulder heights and proceed as follows:

Let us say the difference between the high and the low shoulder is 3/^ inch. inch and re-shape. Split the backpart as from A to D, overlap as from D to E,

^

THE FOREPART. Split the forepart as from B to G and overlap from between the high and the low shoulder.

The

alteration in the

frock coat (Diagram

body alongside of the backpart the same way as the sack coat.

in the

Ai)

same position

is

in

G

to F,

^

inch,

which

made in the same way. which they were cut, and

is

the difference

Place the sidesplit

and overlap


A

M ERl C A N


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

If tlie difference

(Diagram A2)

Move ,^

to 4 the

front

the hackpart

same amount.

shoulder as

Should

is

not

so great, alter

as follows

it

^

down

as from i to 2, or '/< inch, reduce the back shoulder from Alake the distance from 4 to 6 the same as from 3 to 5, leaving the

is.

this alteration be required

stri])ed material,

Lower

between the low and the high shoulder

:

make

when

the coat

the alteration as follows

the backpart as from

i

to 2

(

is

finished, or should the

Diagram A3 )

goods be of a

:

(as previously explained)

the difference between the

high and low shoulder, reduce the shoulder from 6 to 5 the same amount, from 5 to 7 the same length as the original backpart is from 6 to 8.

make

the backpart

THE FOREPART. Reduce the side of forepart from 3 to 4 the same amount as the backpart was reduced from I to 2. From 9 to .V is the same as from 3 to 4. I'lace the forepart pattern at points 4 A and re-shape as per broken line.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

Figures

B and B show

At the back

i

FIGURE

B.

the front and back o f the

and is too tight side seams, and shows a wrinkle under the collar. At the front the coat looks as if it were made button, and sticks out below the waist.

The cause of

How

the coat catches,

these defects

is

the back

is

same

Bi.

coat.

at the hip, wrinkles at the

for a fat

man;

it is

all

too large at the lower

too long for the foreparts.

Diagram B. We will now show how to make these alterations in detail. As the back shows a slight wrinkle under the collar, there must be to alter, see

slope, or a tightness over the shoulder pitch.

and 3

to

upper part of the

4 about

^

inch and leave point S as

We it

will therefore is.

too

much

shoulder

reduce the backpart from

i

to 2


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

123

m

We

will

As

the coat

now

considei; the forepart. is

there

shows that the tightness at the hip is were transferred to the side, the hip; therefore, the proper alteration is to swing the forepart

too large in front below the waist,

only caused by a poor balance,

would be no tightness

at

i.

e.,

if

it

the fulness of the front edge

so as to bring the front fulness to the side. To do this, proceed as follows:

Should there be any tightness at the first button, all that is necessary is to crook and raise Diagram B i, broken line) about J^ inch. But if the first button is right, then make the alteration as shown on Diagram B. Raise the shoulder from 9 to 8 and 7 to 6 about 34 inch, and drop the backpart from 14 the same as the back is lowered to 15 the same amount; lengthen the forepart from 13 to 12

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

the shoulder (see

from 14

to 15,

which

is

"4 inch.


124

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

C.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

Figure

C.

shoe" wrinkles. is called the '"horse the back of a sack, coat, with what for the forepart. caused by the backpart being too short

C shows

This defect

is

^rrc^'r

::dSM:;s^een.

to be all

ri^U there

is

nothing to be done except to

'-^ t ':^. ^o^: ^r: tt ^7^x3.0. poi. backus

125

nled

up the shoulder will becon^e a

3 about 14 inch.

Lengthen the back from 6

to

little

3

.p

.

poi.

. Aft. t.

fron. too loose, so reduce the shoulder

'"ch. 7. 3^

i

to


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

126

FIGURE

FIGURE

D.

Di.

FIGURES D and DI Defect—^The

wrinkles at the back of the neck, as illustrated by Figures D and Di arise from entirely different causes, as will be seen. See Figure D. Cause The collar is just right for height; yet there is a surplus amount of cloth between the shoulder-pitch and the neck, which shows that there is too much back length from the shoulder-pitch up; and yet, if the back scye were too deep, the backpart would drop and show a wTinkle at the back of the armscye; but as such is not so in this case, then the coat is too tight at the shoulder-pitch and must be altered as follows. (See Diagram D.) To alter— Reduce the backpart from A to B and C to D, say, '/z inch, re-shape as p>er broken line to E, make the back slightly wider at F, so as to retain the shoulder width, and

let

out the front shoulder as from

Di

H

to G, say

— In this case the wrinkle

%

inch.

from the preceding, and shows that it is caused by the stretching of the collar stand from the fact that the collar lacks in height the same amount tliat the wrinkle takes up. Fig.

is

different

The collar stand, as cut and after the seam is sewed up, will fit to the back as on Figure Diagram D2; but when the stand is stretched, it becomes rounder than the back will allow (see Diagram Di), and thus forces the back away from its proper place and leaves a wrinkle underpeath.

To

alter

— So,

in

order to

fix this

wrinkle, put in a

new

collar a>td don't stretch the stand.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

Di.

DIAGRAM

127

D2.


128

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

E.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

129

E.

The cause of this defect is that the Diagram E. Sweep from B to C pivoting at A; make the distance from B to C K' inch, or as much as is necessary. Lower the gorge from F to G the same amount as from B to C. From C to D is the same length as from B to E. Re-shape as per broken line. Figure

shoulder

is

E shows

a coat

too crooked.

that flares out at the lapel.

How

to alter, see


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

I30

FIGURE

F"igure

F shows

a coat that has too

F.

much overlap

at the front.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

diagra:\i

How

to alter, see

Diagram

131

f.

F.

Should the coat have one inch too much overlap, straijjhten the shoulder jS inch, as frooi A to B, which is half of the excess overlap. Reduce from E to F, C to D, I to J and G to H the same amount.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

132

FIGURE

Figure

some

("i

G.

slunvs a fault that has been very cuiniuoii lately, and for the want of a better name,

cutters call

it

"carbuncles."

These wrinkles are caused by the stretching of the front shoukler without adding extra height to the shoulder pitch.

The

is not good at any time and is positively bad on striped no matter how careful you are, you cannot keep the stripe straight but if the But in stretched and the shoulder pitch made higher, these wrinkles would disappear. c. straighten stretch the gorge, it is necessary to first advance the shoulder point,

stretching of the front .shoulder

materials, for

gorge

is

order to

the shoulder.

;

/.


1

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

This change

garment

is

may

be

made

in the pattern

133

G.

before the coat

is

cut,

or as an alteration after the

finished.

To alter see Diagram G. Raise the shoulder pitch from 8 to 9 about }i inch straighten the shoulder as from 10 to half that amount make the length from 7 to 1 1 the same as from 7 to 10 and re-shape. ;

;

1


134

,/

M ERIC AN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

FIGURE

H.

Alterations

and

How

to

Hi.

Make Them

Fault: Coat wrinkles across the back under the collar and at the front shoulders. fault

is

more common

turn-down

On

in the

summer

time, as at

that

This

season of the year most people wear

and no waistcoats.

collars

away from the collar band, and vacuum between the shirt and the outer edge of the collar. Therefore, when a coat is put on over a collar of that kind, especially when no waistcoat is worn, the coat collar cannot come close to the neck, because the shirt collar keeps it away and the turn-down collar, the outer leaf invariably sticks

leaves a

causes the wrinkle. Naturally,

if

a waistcoat was worn the wrinkle might

ders of the waistcoat would act as a pad (so to speak)

still

be there, but the back and shoul-

filling

the

vacuum, and minimizing the

wrinkle.

But the actual cause of the trouble is that the backscye is too deep, and in measuring for a coat, the scye depth should begin just where the collar edge ends. If an alteration is to be made on a garment of that kind it should be made as follows: Shorten the scye depth as from i to 2 and 3 to 4 (Diagram II) say half an inch, more or

summer

less,

according to the size of the wrinkle. tight shoulder will often make a wrinkle across the back,

A

in

which case leave out the front

shoulder, as from 5 to 6, and re-shape as per broken lines. In case there is no outlet on the shoulder, make your alteration as in the scve depth from

i

to 2

and 3 to

same, and re-shape as per solid

4, half

lines.

Diagram Hi.

Shorten

an inch, shorten the front shoulder from 6

to 7 the


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

135


136

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

I.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

this

137

I.

over the breast. Figure I shows a coat with what some tailors consider too much fold how to reduce While we do not consider this a fault, yet we have so many inquiries as to fold, that we herewith show how to make the alteration. Diagram I shows how the alteration is to be made. to D the same and Pare out the armscye from B to A, say 'A inch reduce the side seam C ;

re-shape as per broken

line.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

1.^8

FIGURE

J.

FIGURE

J

I.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

J

DIAGRAM

I.

FIGURE Fault—This

Cause—It

sleeve wrinkles

has too

much

139

J.

Jl

from the top of the undersleeve upwards.

sleeve head.

,.

a from i to 2, say /^ inch, and alter-(See Diagram Ji)-Reduce the sleeve head the same amount as the to from undersleeve 4 3 the Reduce re-shape as per broken line. upper sleeve and re-shape.

How

.

.

to

Fault-The Cause—The

draws in long folds from the sleeve head is too short.

sleeve

DIAGRAM

sleeve

head down, both front and back.

J

as per to D, say /a inch, and re-shape How to alter-Reduce the sleeve from A to B and C re-shape. E to F the same amcmt and and H to G from sleeve under Reduce the broken hue mch. I to J the same, /^ Lengthen the sleeve from K to L and


I40

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

K.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

141

K.

K

shows two defects. coat shows a wrinkle under the collar. well Secondâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; It shows a slight wrinkle on the side seam and does not drape

Figure Pirst

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The

The cause of

How

defect

this

to alter, see

to

D

From E

to

F

is is

the

A

to

same as

A

B and C

J4 the distance of

H

K

as indicated.

at the bottom.

too long. to

D

>^ inch

more or

may

less as

be necessary.

to C.

Re-shape the back as per broken is The shoulder from G to

and

is

Diagram K.

Shorten the back from

From B

the back

is

H

A

to B.

line.

inch less than

D

^,

to F.

.

,

Shrmk

^ u . t the backpart between J ,

,


142

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

I'fGL-RE

L.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

143

L.

FIGURE L Fault

—The backpart wrinkles the —The backpart too short for the at

Cause

is

sides.

forepart.

DIAGKAM How

to

alter— Cut the backpart down from

backpart up to point

A

A

L to B, say yi

of forepart, reduce forepart from

C

to

D as

inch,

and move point B of

much

as necessary.


144

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE M.


A

MnR

PATTERN GRADER

N

CA

I

DIAGRAM

FIGURE Fault

—-Too

Cause

—A

imicli

lap at the breast

and not

M.

M

cn(Pii,i,'li

crooked shoulder.

DIAGRAM Mow

to alter

— Sweei)

.Vdvance from

A

Drop, the gorge from

From B

to

E

is

from

the

C

to

same

Re-shape as per broken

to

.\

^

to R, say

1!.

inch.

D as

line,

-J^

A

inch.

to F,

pivoting at

M (1

at

the bottom.

145


â&#x20AC;¢46

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

N.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

The

fault

shown on Figure

N

is

one that

wise faultless garments have this defect. pulled down, the collar sets

gradually slide

backpart

How

is

up well and

down and show

is

When

147

N.

frequently seen on overcoats, and many otherthe garment is first put on and the undercoat

close to the neck,

the collar of the undercoat.

but after a

The

little

while

cause of this defect

seems

it

is

to

that the

too short.

to alter (see

Diagram N).

Lengthen the back from A to From G to F on forepart is /. inch

B and C

to

D

than

D

to

less

say /. inch, more or less as may be necessary. on backpart. Re-shape as per broken line.

H


.AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

14S

FIGURE O

Fault— The coat wrinkles at the The backpart is too short How to alter (see Diaeram O)

Cause

sides

and hangs away from the

for the forepart.

waist.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

140

Oi.

on the top of back, leave out from A to B and C to D, say, }i ought to be the same as from A to C, which would bring it as to E, but as there never is any outlet on the back shoulder, make the width from B to D wide as you can. If the backpart is much too short, the front shoulder ought to be somewhat If there

inch.

The

is

sufficient outlet

distance from

B

to

D

shortened, but as in this case the backpart from

shoulder as

it

is,

Another way waist from

and the to

result will be the

make

A

same

to if

this alteration is as follows

to B, say, J4 inch; bring point as much as necessary. sidebodv from C to

D

B

as

B

to

D

is

somewhat too narrow, leave

the front

the front shoulder were shortened. (see

Diagram Oi) Lengthen the back side seam and leave out the

F; baste up the

:


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

F.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

>5'

P.

FIGURE P Fault—The coat wrinkles under the collar and down the sides. The center vent opens. The backpart is too long for the forepart. How to alter (see Diagram P)— Shorten the back from A to E and C to D, say '/2 inch. Lengthen the front shoulder from F to G and H to J, say 5^ inch, or as much as necessary-. Cause


152

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

Q.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

Fat Man's

—The —The

hangs close to the sides and

Fault

skirt

skirt is too short at the front.

How

to alter

— See

B

to C.

Frock

flares at the front.

Diagram Q.

Shorten the skirt from solid to point A.

Q.

Double-Breasted

Cause

153

Lengthen the

skirt

line

from

B

E

to

broken

to F, the

line C,

say

same amount

'/i

as

inch or J^ inch and re-shape it

has been shortened from


1

54

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

R.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

Figure

R

155

R.

shows the back skirts over-lapping in which case alter, as on Diagram R. 2 to 3 is >< the distance the skirts overlap, say }i inch if the overlap is i^ inches. Reduce the skirts, beginning- with nothing at the point of sidebody, and shape gradually as

From

I>er

broken

line 3.

;


AM ERICA \ PATTERN GRADER

k6

Figwres

S and Si

are the back and front view of the same coat.

slanting upwards, and on the back —Wrinkles on the forepart from the open the back. slanting downwards, and the too long for the The cause —The fronts are too short for the backpart, or the backpart one and the same which understood when say the fronts are too short for the — Let me be How

The

^ides

fault is

skirts

at

is

is

fronts,

is

to alter

fault.

plainly

I

do not mean to say they are too short in the length, on the contrary, they may be full k^ng. and yet too short to balance with the back .\s there are se\-eral ways to alter this fault I «-ill here give three diagrams showing three

back.

I

different

ways

to alter it

If the fronts are long

enough for proper length,

alter as follows:


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGR.A.M

S.

DIAGILAM

DIAGRAM Reduce the back from

From E broken

to

F

Âť57

reduce

A 1/2

to

B and C

the amount,

to D,

say

S2.

S

^

inch or J4 inch.

widen the back

slightly

at

F,

and re-shape as per

line.

DIAGPvAM

SI

on Diagram Si. and 4 to 5, say J4 Jnch, to 7, and 10 to 9, say 54 inch, and re-sh^)e as per broken

If the fronts are too short for proper length alter as

Reduce the back from 2 Let out the outlet from 8 This alteration It

outlet

will

to 3

require a

new

sometimes happens that there on the shoulder, in which case

is

no more goods for a new on Diagram S2.

collar,

or that there

is

no

alter as

DIAGKAM ^

S2

Lei^hen the fronts from inch. Cut down the armscye from F to G, say >4 or and K to L, to X, and O to P, the same amount and re-sh^)e as per broken line.

M

iine.

collar.

H

to J


158

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

T.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

DIAGKAM Fault

—The

159

T.

T

skirts flare at the front edge.

T. alter—If the pleats are right, and do not overlap, alter as on Diagram and re-shape as per Reduce the skirt at the waist seam as from 2 to 3, Vs or /^ inch,

How broken

to

line.


AMERICAN PATTER

i6o

A'

GRADER

FIGURE

FIGURE

Fault

—The —The

Cause

How

collar

is

Ui.

U.

too loose does not

shoulder

is

—There

are

come

close to the shirt collar.

too tight at the pitch.

two ways to make this alteration. and the armscye a little close make the alteration as on Diagram U. This will let the coat come Just raise or loosen the shoulder as from A to B, say yi inch. down to its proper place and leave the collar closer. If the collar is loose and the armscye is easy and deep enough, make your alteration as on Diagram Ui. Straighten the shoulder as from to alter

If the looseness is slight,

D

much as necessary. Make the length from G to C the same as from G From C to E is the same as from D to F.

to C, say J^ inch or as

Reshape as per broken

line.

to D.


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

I

i.

i6i

U.

Figure U does not alone show a looseness in the collar, but also a faHing away of the collar from the neck, which does not alone necessitate the straightening of the shoulder as on Diagram Ui, but also the crooking of the collar See Diagram U. From C to E should be the full width of collar stand, which is i% inches, and should be

made

as follows

Draw a line from the lapel break F through E to G. From G to K is 134 inches. From E to G is the same as the top width of back; shape

as per broken line.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

l62

DIAGRAM

V.

FIGUKE V Faultâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; The

vest

even too large at the

is

too tight across the

sides.

A

front

vest of this kind

is

of

breast.

It

may

be

large

also apt to be too loose or to stick

enough or

away from

the body at the bottom button.

How One

to alter

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; See

alteration will

Diagram V. remedy both

defects:

Unbutton the vest all but the bottom button and see what the distance is between the upper button and buttonhole. Say the distance is i inch, now crook the shoulder as from A to B half of that amount, t. e., yi inch, and reduce the backpart from C to D the same.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

163

DIAGRAM W. FIGURE Fault-This

vest flares at the opening

S:^;;^^^t ':T:::^ necessary. }i inch as may be as you have advanced

amount

and

is

W too loose at the upper buttons.

. conar the

Shorten the strap 74

from

A

to B.

o.^ th.^

ui /.

to

^

is

to stretch the

^^y.


164

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

DIAGRAM

X.

X.


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

i6s

DIAGRAM

Xi.

X2.

e., the vest is too low at the back of the neck, Fault: Figure X shows a very common fault, and does not cover the collar button. scye depth may be too short. Cause: There are several causes for such a fault: (i) The i.

(2)

The

the vest

may be too long for the scye depth. (3) not high enough at the back of neck, there

also happens sometimes that while a wrinkle across the back part 2 or 3

It

strap is

is

inches below the neck.

How

We

to alter

will treat

If the first

each cause separately. the reason and the vest length

is

(See Diagram X.)

and from

to 2,

E

Raise the backpart from

to F.

Measure

the distance

A

is

just right,

to B,

from

A

and to

C

to

make

D

i

the alteration as follows: inch,

C and from B

to

add the same from C D; the distance from

from H to G on forepart., the difficulty from the second cause the same alteration will remedy in which case leave the backpart as it is and excepting where the vest can stand being shortened, (See Diagram Xi.) .shorten the strap. and if the backpart has a wrinkle across Should the third cause be responsible for the defect, low in the neck, proceed as on Diasomewhere between the neck and scye depth and still is too or ^ inch. Reduce the same from K to gram X2. Advance the shoulder point from I to I /^

B

to

D

is

now

slightly increased, so reduce the increase

If the trouble arises

I.

as per

broken

line.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

i66

FIGURE

DIAGRAM Fault

— The

Y.

Y.

vest back wrinkles below the neck.

Cause

—The

How

to alter

is too long from the shoulder pitch up. Diagram Y). Reduce the back from A to B and C to D, say Yz inch and re-shape as per broken line to E. Measure the back shoulder from C to E and from D to E and whatever difference there is, reduce the same amount from F to G on forepart.

vest back

— (See


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE

The

fault of the trousers herein

When

the

man

ness at the crotch at the knee,

;

DIAGRAM

Z.

shown

is

when

the knee

is

Z.

one frequently seen.

stands straight, the trousers hang well and

but

167

fall

straight with very

little

ful-

bent as in walking or sitting down, the forepart catches

drawing wrinkles from the crotch downward, at the same time causing the forepart bend of the ankle and the backpart to stick away at the heel

to be held tight in the front at the

The cause of The backpart

when such

We

know

that

it

is

every cutter's desire to cut trousers

little

more apt to occur. Diagram Z. Reduce the backpart from C to O, say draw add from A to B the same.

How

the

cut too straight.

is

or no surplus length at the back crotch, but there is a limit to straight trouespecially when the goods happens to be a hard worsted or any hard woven material,

that will have sers,

this defect is:

a defect

is

to alter, see

i

inch, or as

;

Raise J^ inch at

O

an

1

reshape as per broken

line.

much

as you think necessary to relieve


i68

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURE AA.


/AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

169

AA.

Fat Man's Trousers FIGURE

AA

—The trousers wrinkle and seem to draw —Too much waist and stomach. How to — (See Diagram AA). Fault

at the fly

below the stomach.

Cause

alter

By

too

much

waist

we do

not

in distributing the cloth the front

C

to

D

5^ inch, reduce from

E

to

mean

that the trousers are too large at the waist, but that

F

the

backpart the same amount as the front

much of

Therefore reduce the waist from and re-shape. Add from B to A on reduced from C to D.

has got too

same as is

C

to

D

it.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

170

FIGURE

BB.

FIGURE BB Fault— The crease of the trousers turns The cause may be in cutting or

Cause

to the inseam.

in the making. kind happens often the cause is in the cutting, in which case reduce the backpart as from 9 to 10, or inch and advance the same amount from 6 to 12.

If a fault of this

^

^


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM But

it

If the

happens once forepart

is

in

a while that the fault

stretched between 2 and

10

171

BB.

is

the tailor's.

more thar

For instance:

the inseam between 3 and 8. the

Sometimes the notches do not meet, in which case the alteration from what cause, if you drop the notch on the backpart as from 4 to 5 and make the forepart notch meet it, the crease will fall to the center. In moving the notch down reduce the backpart from 13 to 14 the same amount as the notch has been moved down and add the same from 12 to 7. crease will is

fall to

the inseam.

simple, but no matter


172

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

FIGURES CC


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

DIAGRAM

Figures

on what

is

C C show

called a back

front parts too short.

the

bow.

How

front and back of the

The cause of to alter, see

173

CC.

same

this defect

Diagram C

trousers.

is

This fault can often be seen

the backparts are too long and the

C.

THE FOREPART. Reduce and raise the forepart from D to C, say >4 inch each way, and add amount from B to A. Re-shape as per broken line.

the

same

THE BACKPART. Reduce the

seam of the backpart from N to M about i inch, and leave out the outlet to K the same amount. Leave out from I to J, say yi inch, and from G Reduce the same amount from E to F and re-shape as per broken line.

side

on the inseam from to

H

the same.

L


:

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

174

A 16

DIAGRAM

FIGURE DD.

DD.

—The trousers wrinkle front of crotch. —This sometimes caused by the forepart being stretched on the inseam. in

Fault

Cause

is

Some

trouser makers have a habit of stretching the inseam while shrinking the backpart, seams are sewed up, which is decidedly wrong, for while the inseam of the backpart must be stretched between the knee and the crotch, yet it must be done before the seams are sewed up, so that the inseam of the forepart will not stretch. How to alter To remedy this defect is easy, all that is necessary is to rip the inseam, press the forepart straight and sew it up again. Sometimes, however, this defect is caused by the inseam being too long in which case see after the

Diagram DD.

To

avoid such a defect

— In D

cutting the trousers advance the line from

A

to

B

>^ or

.)4

same amount, cut the backpart accordingly, that shortens the If, however, the trousers are finished and from A to B cannot be advanced, there inseam. being no outlet on the forepart, make your alteration as follows Let out the outlet on the backpart from E to F, say i inch, and take in the same amount on inch and reduce from

the outside seam.

C

to

the


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER Instructions for Tailoring

175

Coats

In order to be a successful cutter, the first thing necessary is to work in harmony with your tailors. It is not essential to have the best tailors, for every tailoring house can't have the best trade, but, no matter how good a tailor a man may be he must look to his It is the cutter who is held responsible by the firm for the good cutter for instructions. or bad garment produced, and so it naturallyfollows that his instructions must be followed.

The indiscriminate stretching of shoulders or gorge by good coat makers has done more produce bad garments than many cutters are aware of, and the drawing in and shrinking of armholes for chest eflFect where no provision for such work has been made has killed many a job. In the back shops, where many good coat makers come together and where work of a high-class is made, the best coat maker is looked up to for pointers as to how stylish garments ought to be made, and, as it is every coat maker's ambition to be considered as good or better than the best, he will not alone follow the good man, but go him one better. That is, if it is good to stretch the shoulder seam a little, it is better to stretch it much, at the same time forgetting the old story, "That what will cure an Irishman to

may

kill

a Dutchman."

The proper way to make a coat depends upon the way the coat is cut. We have now what is known among cutters as three kinds of shoulders, viz. the straight, the crooked and the normal shoulder, each of which requires manipulation of its own to produce the proper efifect. To make myself more clearly understood I must explain where the crooked shoulder begins and where the straight shoulder ends. To the average cutter's judgment a crooked shoulder is one wjiere the distance from the line in front of the armscye to the ;

shoulder point

is

less

measures more than the breast and waist coat.

at

%

and a straight shoulder is one that That is true providing the front edge are on a square with the breast line on the normal

than

%

of the breast measure,

of breast.

(See Diagram AA.)

%

of breast

is

therefore normal.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

176

However, should the distance from the same line in front of the armscye to the shoulder point be >4 inch less than Yt of the breast measure, and the waist at the front edge extend 3^ inch in front of the breast line, (see Diagram BB) then the shoulder is not crooked but normal.

Diagram

CC

a copy of

Diagram

BB

with an imaginary breast line squared back by squaring up from the present breast line in front of the armscye and measuring from that line to the shoulder point the distance will be Yd of the breast measure and the shoulder is therefore not crooked. the front edge.

is

(See broken

line.)

By

way; on the normal figure, where the distance from the armscye to the shoulder point is Yb breast, plus i inch, and the waist point recedes i inch from the line squared down from the breast, Csee Diagram DD), the shoulder is not straight but normal. Now let us consider the shoulder from the present

The same

line

in

front

is

true the other

of the

point of view.

now proceed to explain how coats ought to be made up; As the greater part makings up of coats are known to every tailor, I will explain only those points which e., the shoulders, collars, sleeves, chest deal with the vital fitting points and artistic lines, effect and the front edges. I

will

of the

/.


AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

The Crooked The

177

Shoulder

must not have the chest worked in from the armmust be worked in from the front edge. At the armscye the canvas must be The overshoulder must have no extra additions except for cut and the armscye stretched. the seams. The high shoulder is produced by the stretching of the armscye. The upper sleeve may be cut J4 inch larger than the armscye because the stretching of the armscye scye

;

coat with the crooked shoulder

the chest

requires a larger upper sleeve. The collar may be put in easy at the hollow of the gorge, but not too long, and must be shrunk in at the crease. This kind of a coat used to be made by almost every tailor some years ago, and is still made by some tailors now. The coat with a normal shoulder must be made up as follows: The chest is worked in slightly from the armscye and the rest from the front edge. The shoulder seam of the forepart must not be stretched unless extra height is given to the shoulder pitch, the collar is put in longer than in the coat with a crookedshoulder and is also slightly shrunk in at the crease. The armscye must not be stretched and the sleeve, which is cut to measure, is put in in

the usual way.

The Coat With The The manipulations

of this coat

Straight Shoulder

depends upon how straight the shoulder

is cut.

Let us

yi of breastplus yi inch from in front of the armscye. The to be raised the same amount in height as the shoulder is straightened, in

assume that the shoulder point

is

shoulder ought which case the manipulations are as follows: The front of the armscye should be drawn The gorge may be slightly stretched, but if not stretched at all and in and shrunk yi inch. the collar is put in full long it is just as good. The canvas must have a }i inch V cut out from in front of the armscye, and a J4 inch short V set in at the shoulder near the gorge. The upper sleeve may be slightly reduced in width, especially if the material is worsted, and may be raised ^ to ^ inch if the shoulder is narrow. The front edges must not be worked in much at the breast, and at the lowei part of the edge the stay tape must be put The collar crease must not be in short enough to prevent the edge from being stretched. shrunk in. Keep the crease straight.


.

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

J78

Index Page 4

Introduction Preface Table of Proportions for Boys and Youths Table of Proportions for Men Table of Proportions for Short Measures

....'...

5

6 7

8

GRADING.

How How

Grade a Sack Coat from a Single Pattern from a Single Pattern {continued) Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern to Grade a Stout Sack Coat from a Single Pattern {continued) to Grade a Double-Breasted Sack Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Frock Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Stout Frock Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Double-Breasted Frock Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Dress Coat from a Single Pattern How to Grade a Dress Waistcoat from a Single Pattern.... r Double Grading: Single-Breasted Sack Coat Double Grading: Single-Breasted Stout Sack Coat Double Grading: Double-Breasted Sack Coat How to Make a Double Grade for a Frock Coat How to Make a Double G/ade for a Stout Frock Coat How to Make a Double Grade for a Double-Breasted Frock Coat How to Make a Double Grade for a Dress Coat

How How How

to

9

to Grade a Sack Coat

12

to

14 16 18

20 24 26 28 30 32

34 3f>

38

40 42

44 46

The Sleeve

How

to

Grade Collars

The Double Grade The Double Grade: The Double Grade: :

How

to

How How How

Grade Vests from Two Patterns to Grade Stout Vests from Two Patterns to Grade a Double-Breasted Vest from Two Patterns.. to

Grade Trousers

BLOCK PATTERNS AND How to Use Them How to Use Them Change a Normal Pattern from Change a Normal Pattern from

Block Patterns and Block Patterns and

How How

to

to

Normal

HOW TO

{continued) a a

Normal Normal

58 60 62

.

for a

54 S6

USE THEM.

to an Erect Figure

Square Shoulders Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders Stooping Figure, with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal Figure Erect, Shoulders Square Figure Stooping, Shoulders Square Figure Normal, Shoulders Sloping Figure Erect, Shoulders Sloping ... Figure Stooping, Shoulders Sloping How to Increase the Waist How to Decrease the Waist

48 50 52

64 64 "°

Hunchback

Figure,

^ i

°° 68 70 7" 72 ^^ 74


1

AMERICAN PATTERN GRADER

179

IndeX^" (Continued) Page

How How How How How

Exaggerate a Coat from a Block Pattern to Make a Double-Breasted Forepart from a Single-Breasted Pattern to Make a Norfolk Coat from an Ordinary Sack Coat Pattern to Increase the Waist Length in a Frock Coat to Shorten the Waist Length in a Frock Coat Frock Coat for Stooping Figure, Shoulders Normal Frock Coat for Stooping Figure with Flat Chest, Shoulders Normal Frock Coat for Hunchback Frock Coat for Over-Erect Figure, Shoulders Normal How to Make a Square-Shouldered Inverness Out of a Regular Overcoat How to Make a Round-Shouldered Inverness Out of a Regular Overcoat Pattern to

How How How

to

to to

Make Make Make

Cape a Shoulder Cape a Shoulder Cape

a Circular

74 76 76

78 79 80 81

82 83 84

86 88 9°

(^contwucd)

91

BLOCK PATTERNS FOR WAISTCOATS AND HOW TO USE THEM. Shoulders Normal, Figure Erect Flat Blade, Full Breast Shoulders Square, Figure Erect Shoulders Sloping, Figure Erect Stooping Figure, Normal Shoulders Stooping Figure, Sloping Shoulders Stooping Figure, Square Shoulders Large Blade, Flat Breast A Vest for a Hunchback How to Make a Clerical Waistcoat Out of an Ordinary Pattern A Clergyman's Waistcoat to Button on the Side How to Make a Double-Breasted Vest Out of a Single-Breasted Pattern How to Make a Double-Breasted Dress Waistcoat Out of a Single-Breasted Block •

,•

to

Make

93 94 95 9^ 97

98 99 100 loi

I03 103

'04

Pattern

How

9-

lOS

a Dress Vest Out of a Reguular Pattern

BLOCK PATTERNS FOR TROUSERS AND HOW TO USE THEM. How How How How How How How How How How How

to to to to to

to to

to to to

to

Reduce the Rise; also How to Shorten or Lengthen Trousers Reduce the Waist and Knee Measures Increase the Waist Make Peg-Top Trousers Out of a Normal Block Pattern

Make Make Make Make Make Make Make

106 io7 '0° 109

Trousers for a Bow-Legged Person Trousers for a Toe-in Person Trousers for a Toe-out Person

no

Broad Falls

"3 "3

Narrow

1 1

112

Falls

Knickerbockers from a Regular Trousers Pattern Golf Breeches Out of an Ordinary Block Pattern

Alterations and How to Make Them Instructions for Tailoring Coats

114 116 1

18-174 '75


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