danube connects – the magazine for the danube countries, 1/2025
connects danube
FASCINATION DANUBE REGION
Traveling through history, nature and culture
DANUBE DELTA
DANUBE CONFLUENCEWHERE A RIVER CONNECTS YOUNG PEOPLE
Youth camps in nature..........................4
MILA 23: “IVAN'S DELTA“ IS MORE THAN JUST A CONCEPT
The museum in memory of Ivan Patzaikhin........................ 9
ON THE PATHS OF THE DRAGONS
A TRADITIONAL COSTUME IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS
Exhibition in the DZM............................12
OUTSTANDING ARCHITECTURE AND IMPORTANT COLLECTIONS: The Ethnographic Museum in Budapest..........................................14
COMING TO TERMS WITH THE EXPULSION OF THE HUNGARIAN GERMANS BEGINS
The theatre play: Bündeltanz..............15
LEAP-STEP - EXHIBITION 8 EU countries together against energy poverty in Europe 15
BACK TO NATURE WITH DRAGONS Hiking in Bosnia Herzegovina.............................16 IMPRINT 20
MUNICIPAL MOTOR IN THE DANUBE REGION
The Danube office in Ulm/Neu-Ulm....18
30 YEARS AFTER THE BOSNIAN WAR: Amica is committed to for women in Bosnia............................21
10 YEARS OF DANUBE BOOKS PUBLISHING
Remembering Admiral Mahi´c..............22
SULTAN TRAIL IN CROATIAOf royal wine and mammoth valley....................................23
FIT FOR (WORKING) LIFE: Life skills for young people in Bosnia-Herzegovina..............................22
Dear readers,
Last summer, we were able to hold an exciting Danube Media Camp with young people from three Danube countries. Every participant was an enrichment and everyone was highly motivated. We explored the lives and traditions of fishermen in Tutrakan in Bulgaria and learned a lot about fishing.
The young people took photos, conducted interviews and were just as enthusiastic as we were about the fascinating nature and birds in the Danube Delta, our second stop on the trip. Turning off the engine on a boat trip in the delta to listen to the birds singing is a special experience.
With our new issue, we want to make even more people curious about the Danube countries and the entire Danube region. That is why we are devoting several articles to Bosnia and Herzegovina. And for good reason: the young European country in the shape of a heart will take over the presidency of the Danube region in 2025!
In addition to civil society topics and a literature reading, there is also a mystical travel report. My colleague Mirella was traveling in the Dinaric Alps between two old mountain villages to track down old dragon legends. And what did they tell her? Preserve nature and we'll stay tame!
Preserving nature and culture in countries is important, especially for young people. Travel broadens horizons and sustainable travel should have more of a future!
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Four countries, four exciting camps - and a shared adventure along the Danube!
In this unique project, young people explored the second longest river in Europe in a creative way and immersed themselves in its fascinating nature and culture. The project kicked off with Friends of the Danube in Belgrade, followed by a visit to the picturesque fishing village of Tutrakan in Bulgaria and an exploration tour through the fascinating Danube Delta in Romania. Inspired by the beauty of the landscape and the traditions of the fishermen, the participants recorded their experiences in captivating interviews and great photos a storytelling project that brings the magic of the Danube to life!
The Delta
Youth media camp "Spotlight on the Fishermen" - A journey to the Danube
On 2 June 2024, I left Romania for a special experience: the youth media camp "Danube Confluence: Spotlight on the Fishermen", organised by Agapedia and danube connects.
My journey began in the Bulgarian town of Tutrakan, where we focussed on fishing and the natural ecosystem of the Danube. The stay there was full of intercultural elements and gave us the opportunity to familiarise ourselves with traditional food, clothing and dances. We then travelled to the Romanian city of Crișan in the Danube Delta, close to the Black Sea. The arrival was adventurous: with a lot of luggage on a small boat, surrounded by darkness, mosquitoes and the unfamiliar sounds of nature. But the sight of the sunset, the peli
cans, cormorants and the harmonious interaction of the animals made up for the effort.
During the day, we experienced the intense heat and humidity of the delta, while the evenings were magically calm - a habitat where animals and plants dominate. The locals live in harmony with nature and respect their surroundings. Our days were filled with kayak tours, bird watching, interviews with fishermen and photo shoots. We learned how life on the Danube has changed over
the years and how important it is to preserve traditions and nature. What made this camp special was the connection between the participants. Initially strangers, we grew close through shared experiences and exchange about our cultures. We realised that the Danube is not just a river, but a historical, cultural and ecological lifeline. Despite the logistical challenges, the heat of the sun and mosquito bites, the camp was a complete success. It showed that preserving the Danube is only possible through co-operation.
Fascinating nature with magic
Youth camps like this offer the best opportunity to sensitise young people to work together towards a sustainable future. I am grateful to have been a part of it and hope that this unique ecosystem will be preservedfor the animals, nature and the people who respect it.
Kamilla Halaszy, Cluj-Napoca
Tutrakan and the fishermen of the Danubea
story that never ends
The Danube is not just a river, but a lifeline that has been connecting people, cultures and stories for centuries. Once a frontier of the Roman Empire, today a source of life for ten European countries, the Danube is also the keeper of a deep-rooted history of fishing, associated cuisine and a lifestyle far older than we can imagine.
Tutrakan, a town on the Bulgarian bank of the Danube, is a place full of history - marked by wars, military occupations, natural disasters, but also by tradition and constancy. Today, the town attracts tourists who want to experience the authentic fishing and cuisine of the Danube. The people living here do the same things their ancestors did for thousands of years: Catching fish to sell, eating together on the banks and giving themselves up to the rhythm of nature.
The fishermen of Tutrakan used to be true legends of the Danube. After winter, they would spend up to nine months on the river, traveling hundreds of kilometres along the Bulgarian border, fishing, selling their catch and living in camps along the banks. Winter was not an idle time either - the Danube was often frozen over, so holes were drilled in the ice to catch fish. Fishing was not just a profession, but a way of life that was passed down from generation to generation.
Today, these fishermen have not been forgotten. Young people like Tisho, a student from Tutrakan, see their future in continuing this tradition. While other young people may dream of careers in
technology or science, for him one thing is certain: his destiny is the Danube, fishing and life on the water.
And while towns are shrinking and people are moving to large metropolitan areas, more and more people long for a “return to nature”. But what does that actually mean? A trip to the countryside, a few photos and a freshly grilled fish? Nature doesn't need us - we need it! Our ancestors understood the signs of the sky, calculated their food down to the last grain and endured hardships that would be unimaginable for us.
It's time we didn't just talk about ourselves when we talk about being close to nature. The fishermen of Tutrakan are not just figures from the past - they are here, living, working and preserving their ancient traditions. Yes, their eyes are tired from constantly looking at the water, their hands rough from their daily work. The true connection to nature does not come from occasional trips, but from living with it - day after day, generation after generation.
Martin Krastev, Sofia
NEXT YOUTH BOOTCAMP STOP - Bosnia and Herzegovina '25
The heart-shaped country of Europe is not only taking over the presidency of the Danube region this year, but is also making itself a strong host for young people. A youth meeting is planned as part of the Danube Confluence project and the Danube Youth Organisation Network (DYON). The participants will take part in a film festival in Srebrenica and then explore the unique and wild nature while rafting and hiking. Stay tuned!
Mila 23
„Ivan's Delta“ is more than just a concept
On the trail of top canoeist Ivan Patzaichin in the Danube Delta
The adventure begins on 9 June 2024 deep in the heart of the Danube Delta, in eastern Romania. The Danube Delta is one of the last unspoilt natural paradises in Europe - for now! The journey starts in Crisan on a motorboat. The journey to Mila 23, a secluded village that lies like an island in a labyrinth of waterways, is an experience for the senses. A narrow canal leads there.
The engine stops and suddenly there is only nature: a choir of birds, the gentle lapping of the water and the rustling of the reeds. Flocks of cormorants and herons stretch out above the travellers, while water lilies decorate the surface of the water. There are said to be 320 bird species here. It is as if time itself has a different speed here - it flows more slowly and feels more intense. The Danube Delta is a world of its own, waiting to be discovered. Slowly, carefully, respectfully.
Arriving in Mila 23, the travellers come across the Ivan Patzaichin Museum, which opened in May 2024. The building, modern yet harmoniously integrated into its surroundings, exudes a warm reverence. Unfortunately, the museum is closed, but out of sheer luck, the travellers still manage to get inside.
„Ivan's Delta" has become a concept that aims to pass on these values to future generations.“
Teodor Frolu
The boatman Ionut Calin talks over the fence to a man who introduces himself as Teodor Frolu.
Teodor Frolu, architect of the museum and a good friend of Romanian canoeist Ivan Patzaichin, lets the visitors in. He tells stories about the top canoeist who came from this small village and impressed the world with his special achievements. Ivan Patzaichin was a man who not only shone with his four Olympic gold medals and seven world championship titles, but also with his modesty and his deep connection to nature. A connection that he wanted to pass on to future generations - but he did not have enough time left. He died on 5 September 2021 at the age of 71 in a hospital in Bucharest. His death left a huge void, both in Romanian sport and in the Danube Delta community, for which he had worked tirelessly.
His legacy lives on in Mila 23 - not only in people's memories, but also in his visible endeavours to preserve the Danube Delta. Until his death in 2021, Patzaichin campaigned for sustainable tourism and the protection of this unique ecosystem. It was his immediate environment that made Ivan Patzaichin what he eventually became: a top athlete in canoeing.
Teodor Frolu, a close companion of Ivan.
The Olympic medals can be discovered in the museum tower
The Ivan Patzaichin Museum in Mila 23 is much more than a museum - it is a cultural centre that brings together the history of an extraordinary man and the beauty of the Danube Delta. The idea for it was born in 2019 together with Ivan Patzaichin, says Teodor Frolu."Unfortunately, Ivan didn't live to see the opening of the museum. He passed away in 2021, before the project was officially opened in 2024," he says. The expression "Ivan's Delta" has become a concept that aims to pass on these values to future generations. This concept comes to the fore in the recently opened museum.
The museum is located on the property where Ivan's parents once lived after their original home fell victim to a major flood in the 1970s. The highlight of the building is an 18-metre-high wooden tower made entirely from local timber - the tallest wooden structure in this region of Romania. The tower is not only an outstanding architectural work, but also a place of remembrance. The most important stages of Ivan Patzaichin's life are presented on different levels.
The ground floor is home to the "treasury", or "tezaurul" in Romanian, which houses Ivan's Olympic and world championship medals and other achievements from his sporting career. The other levels show his childhood in Mila 23, his successes as an Olympic champion, his work as coach of the national team and finally his projects for sustainable tourism. Various types of boats can be admired inside the tower. At the top of the tower, visitors can pause for a moment, let their gaze wander over the delta and feel close to Ivan. The tower is open so that wind and rain can flow through - a tribute to Ivan's deep connection to nature.
Next to the museum, there is a working kitchen where local dishes are prepared for visitors and three guest rooms designed for travellers. A digital education room has also been set up to support the local community. Young people learn how to portray the unique beauty of the Danube Delta on social media, not as consumers but as creative producers.
On the way back to Crisan, through the interwoven network of water and reeds, we reflect on life - and on people like Ivan Patzaichin, who have understood how to live in harmony with nature.The lesson of the day is clear: Living sustainably and close to nature means taking responsibility for future generations - and, following Ivan Patzaichin's example, this is what each and every one of us should do.
Raluca Nelepcu, Temeswar
Patzaichin was a four-time Olympic champion and environmental activist
A comic story shows the stages in Ivan's life.
A traditional costume is worth a thousand words
How heavy fabric increases the chances of marriage –
An exhibition at the Danube Swabian Central Museum in Ulm
Women in the countries along the Danube had one thing in common: they wanted to look fat. But unfortunately, not all of them had generous curves – a possible reason being that fat just melted off when they worked so much - so they cheated. An open secret. They layered several petticoats on top of each other.
In the current exhibition "Heavy Fabric - Women, Traditional Costumes, Life Stories" at the Danube Swabian Central Museum in Ulm, you can try on these white cotton skirts for yourself. Then you quickly realise how impractical they actually were. But an ideal of beauty is what it is. A fat woman automatically meant: I am wealthy because I have enough to eat. And I can give birth to lots of children.
But this attire – you could call it plumage – was actually quite impractical. You could no longer do anything on your own. Not sitting down, not getting up, not going to the loo. But because being voluptuous was an important currency on the marriage market, the lads would check under the woman's skirt to see how many layers she had cheated with.
Starting at the end of the 17th century, more than 150,000 people followed the call of the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa in the hope of finding a happy future in a new homeland. They set off from Ulm in so-called "Schachteln" (boxes) to travel along the Danube to what was then Hungary. The Habsburg crown wanted to turn a region that today comprises Hungary, part of Romania, Croatia and Serbia, into the granary of the Danube Monarchy. However, you shouldn’t believe that these Danube Swabians (only some of them came from Swabia) set out 300 years ago in
their traditional costumes and that the costumes would have been preserved in their new homeland for centuries. Henrike Hampe of the Danube Swabian Central Museum explains: "At the time of the immigrants, there was still a society of estates – people couldn’t choose their clothing freely. There were prescribed garments and fabrics for aristocrats, burghers, peasants and serfs. The traditional costume we think of today, which varies from village to village, only emerged in the 19th century." This was when the urban population began to take an interest in the countryside out of a romantic feeling. Taking the costumes of the rural population as models, they created different "fashionable costumes" (which can be seen in the exhibition). Also in Hungary. But it was only later, after emigrating to Germany after the Second World War, that the former Danube Swabian women also labelled their garments as traditional costume.
A mustard yellow silk dress with bright red embroidered flowers, decorated with lace and an ornate apron is an eye-catcher at the beginning of the exhibition. The dress belonged to Katharina Just from Kéty/Giek (Swabian Turkey/Hungary). As a 14-year-old in the 1940s, she accompanies her father to the neighbouring town where he wants to sell a cow. She discovers the "fantastically patterned fabric" in a shop window. She is enraptured. Unfortunately, the fabric from Vienna is very expensive. Her father promises to buy her the fabric on one condition: they get rid of the cow. The mustard-yellow fabric became her festive garment. The father was certainly proud to see his daugh-
The festive garment of the farmer's daughter Katharina Just, sewn around 1943, is made of patterned artificial silk, called “Bauernbrokat”.
ter dressed like this. After all, farmers were all about clever marriage politics, about increasing their own property. Katharina's chances should therefore have increased when she was wrapped in the new, so-called artificial silk - which was all the rage at the time.
Traditionally in black
When two people got married, it had to be in black. Danube Swabians wore the "colour" for all the big moments in their lives: Weddings, important religious festivals and then one last time on their deathbeds. This was the case until the Second World War, and it was also the case in 1880 at the wedding of MariaAnna Tremml from Banat, now in Romania. Her dress is also on display.
Even in the 1950s, traditional farmer's daughters in Banat married in black. In 1955, Anna Remy was the first in the village to dare to wear white, at least combined with a few black decorative stripes. The women usually wore a blue skirt to work, made of cotton or linen. The craft of indigo dyeing is still practised in Hungary today. Back then, it was an achievement to finally be able to dye a rich blue colour. However, if the
women were older, their sleeves had to be long, show no skin and the garment had to be black.
In 1944, the Märcz family's eldest daughter, 19-year-old Elisabeth, was deported to the USSR for forced labour. She dies. Shortly afterwards, when the war was over, the Märcz family was forced to relocate to Germany. Elisabeth's clothes come with them. Her mother allows her younger daughter Katharina to wear Elisabeth's silk dresses. She is quite proud of them at first, but then she wants to look like the young girls in Germany and is allowed to make new outfits from some of the skirts. For example, the smart, fitted green dress with the puffy red flowers. So little fabric! So light!
Isabella Hafner, Ulm
Project “Upcycling fashion from Danube Swabian fabrics” Pupils in the 3rd grade of the vocational college for fashion and design at the Center for Design in Ulm, Emma Schenk and Luca Stehle tailored shirts from traditional and modern fabrics.
The exhibition “Heavy Fabric - Women, Traditional Costumes, Life Stories” can be seen at the Danube Swabian Central Museum in Ulm until April 21, 2025.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, 11 am to 5 pm, weekends/holidays, 10 am to 6 pm.
The exhibition will be on display at the Ethnographic Museum in Budapest from June 7, 2025 to January 31, 2026 and then at the Ethnographic Museum in Zagreb.
Sunday dress in “bauric” style, worn by Katharina Herbert, ca. 1945.
Katharina Märcz came to Bavaria from Hungary at the age of 15. She sewed a wide skirt she had brought with her into a dirndl dress.
From Ulm, the exhibition travels to Budapest
Outstanding architecture and important collections: The Ethnographic Museum in Budapest
The exhibition Heavy Fabric of the Danube Swabian Central Museum (DZM) (see p. 12) will be on display at the Museum of Ethnography Budapest from June 2025 to January 2026. Reason enough to take a closer look at it.
In Budapest, the title is “Heavy Fabric. Women - Clothes - Life Stories”, which further emphasizes the close relationship between women and the clothing they wear. “It is an important task of the Museum of Ethnography to highlight the culture of minorities in its exhibitions. Ulm has produced a great exhibition that is not only about clothing, but also about the history of Germans in Hungary, told through the clothing and fate of women,” curator Mónika Lackner explains to danube connects. Some of the stories presented through the different outfits are almost 150 years old. The exhibition venue, the aforementioned Budapest Museum of Ethnography, is almost as old - 153 years. Strictly speaking, however, it is only three years old - but how is this difference of 150 years even possible? Let's take a brief look at the history of the museum and its collection
A wandering collection gets building of its own
The museum was founded in 1872, when János Xántus, an ethnographer and naturalist of Greek origin, was appointed director of the Ethnographic
Department of the Hungarian National Museum. The adventurer, who spoke several languages, returned to Hunga ry in 1864 after a twelve-year stay in the USA, initially to manage the Budapest Zoo and set off on various exotic expeditions. His unique ethnological collection of 2,500 specimens from Borneo was the cornerstone of the Ethnographic Department.
Xántus' collection continued to grow, so that it had to move into existing buildings six times over the course of time. In 1947, with its independence, it was given its current name: Museum of Ethnography. It was not until 2022 that it reached what was probably the most important milestone in this long history: the move to a home built especially for the museum in the Budapest City Park.
As part of the Liget Budapest project, a modern building covering 33,000 square meters was erected in the parking lot on either side of the 1956 Uprising Memorial. Today it houses around 150,000 exhibits, plus the collection of 4,500 record cylinders (Béla Bartók collected some of the recordings, among
ry, the manuscript and picture archive comprising almost 30,000 items and a specialised library with 197,000 volumes.
The imposing, curved building was designed by the Hungarian architectural firm NAPUR Architect with the collaboration of almost 250 architects. 60% of the building is below ground, while a green space above serves as a communal area for visitors. The building won the International Property Award for the best public facility in Europe in 2018. Whether for the Heavy Fabrics or any other exhibition, the Budapest Ethnographic Museum is well worth a visit.
Daniel Hirsch, Budapest
The descendant generation begins to come to terms with the expulsion of the Hungarian-Germans
Bundles - the suitcases of the common people of the past, made of a thick linen cloth that once had to hold a family's entire life.
The Swabians had one hour to gather their belongings, then the four corners of the cloth were tied together and placed on their backs. It is now eighty years since the first Germans in Central and Eastern Europe were expelled from their homes or deported to Russia. After long decades of silence, it is now time to come to terms with the past, through art, literature, plays and other means.
Bündeltanz (“Bundle dance”) -
The improvisational theatre play In 2021, Hungarian-German actors and musicians began to work on a play with a great deal of improvisation, for they wanted to bring their own emotions to this topic into the play. The Oberon theatre group from Hungary is not a permanent ensemble. It gets together for specific projects and has since toured large parts of Hungary with the play Bündeltanz. The open-air performances were mostly in Hungarian, only some of the older characters have German dialect texts to portray the generational differences and the loss of the language.
The ensemble was invited to many small, typical Hungarian-German villages, where the performance took place in the hallway of a Swabian house. In this way, Bündeltanz achieved the desired atmosphere even before the play began, right when the audience entered the courtyard. The scenes with wellknown, sad German-language songs also created the mood the ensemble was aiming for. In the run-up to the performance, director Krisztián Ákli asked for stories of family fates on the internet and incorporated them into the foundation of the play, sensitively, with the different reactions of the protagonists in the fateful hours. The ensemble has numerous invitations for 2025, including performances for the Romanian Germans at the end of May, and a tour of Germany is planned for the end of June. A German-language version of the play has also been created in the meantime.
Christina Arnold, Pécs
The first steps have been taken!
LEAP-STEP - Exhibition
8 EU countries together against energy poverty in Europe
After the opening in Ulm at the International Danube Festival, the exhibition has been shown in Spain and Lithuania and is now on display in Budapest.
The aim of the EU project, organized by the Maison de l' Europe in Paris, is to present ideas for solving energy problems, to implement sustainable concepts for reducing energy costs in households and to raise awareness of climate issues. By the end of the year, exhibitions on this topic and partner meetings to exchange ideas and concepts will take place in other member countries.
In Budapest, all participating members planted oak seeds in the forest just outside the Hungarian capital. We will only know in a few years whether our baby trees in Budapest have grown into something. But as the Indian philosopher, poet and Nobel Prize winner Rabindranath Tagore said: "Those who plant trees, even if they know they will never sit in their shade, have at least begun to understand the meaning of life".
We are happy to have done something for the future and look forward to taking further steps together in Portugal!
A play with emotions and music: The improvisational theater Bündeltanz
Hiking in Bosnia-Herzegovina: : Back to nature with dragons
Bosnia-Herzegovina - a country full of myths and wild landsca pes. We visit Umoljani and Lukomir, two of the country's most impressive mountain villages, which, nestled in the breathtaking Dinaric Alps, offer fascinating stories and deep insights into traditional life.
Wafts of mist drift over Mount Bjelašnica, which lies around 40 kilometres from the Bosnian-Herzegovinian capital Sarajevo. Umoljani at an altitude of 1333 metres is our starting years. The head extends to the left and the body, which ends in a long tail, extends to the right. From here, a hike of about ten kilometres takes us to the village of Lukomir through breathtaking and untouched nature. Shortly before our destination, the landscape changes and is now manmade. Wooden fences and small stone walls line the path. We pass flocks of sheep, which are typical of this area. Lukomir is the highest village in the country. And also one of the oldest. Two women sit in front of one of the historic stone houses with the typical tin roofs or wooden shingles that reach down to the ground. One is spinning wool, the other is knitting traditional woollen slippers. Both are wearing the traditional Bosnian costume. I sit down with them. Zlata, who spins wool with a steady hand, tells me about her life
here, which has hardly changed in 200 years. Her movements seem like meditation to me.
Nobody knows exactly how old this idyllic village is. The current houses are up to 300 years old, but it is assumed that people first settled here in the 15th century, as there are stećci, old Bosnian medieval gravestones. They were probably shepherds from the south of the country who came here in search of lush pastures for their animals.
Just a few years ago, there was neither electricity nor running water in the houses. That has since changed. Television and mobile phones are now also part of everyday life.
View of the Dinaric Alps from Lukomir village
In Umoljani at the historic water mills
Faruk is waiting for me in the cottage with the wonderful name Na krovu svijeta, which translates as On the roof of the world. Nermin and his parents give me a warm welcome. They tell me that they were the first to be allowed to buy a house here, even though they are not from here. For centuries, houses could only be sold to villagers. He and his family come from Sarajevo: "We wanted to get away from the city. The villagers, who belong to the Muslim faith, voted on us after Friday prayers - in our favour." Nermin now works here for the whole season until the first snow falls. Then he closes the cottage, as do most of the residents. Otherwise, you run the risk of being snowed in for a few weeks or even months. The smell leads me to the kitchen, which could be straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. With a hearty laugh, Nermin's mum takes our steaming hot pita out of the oven – pies filled with feta and spinach. They are served with fresh salad, yoghurt and her homemade mountain herb tea.
The sun is leaning towards the horizon. It is still light. Faruk leads me to a rocky promontory. To the left, the terrain descends steeply to the gorge of the River Raritnica. We can hear its roar from where we are. Or are we hearing the breath of a dragon that is said to live in a cave down here? According to legend, it rules over the precious water. If people do not treat the water with respect, it is said to cause periods of drought. Even today, the older villagers use the water with gratitude so as not to arouse the wrath of the dragon that watches over their precious water.
From the highest point, I experience a breathtaking sunset. The endless canyons glow a dark orange colour. As we walk back, we have to illuminate the narrow path with the torches on our smartphones to avoid slipping. We walk to the medieval gravestones. It is already cold at 1,455 metres above sea
level. The light colour of the natural stone glows in the dark. It has become quiet in the village, which is now in a deep sleep. Even the stars shine brighter here. Mars, Jupiter and Saturn join them and then, so clearly that it startles me, the Milky Way appears. It seems to dance. I lean against the old gravestones so as not to lose my balance. Time and space no longer exist. I seem to be connected to the universe!
Lukomir is a combination of two words - Luka Mira, which translates as 'harbour of peace'." And that's exactly how I feel when I go to bed. Nermin's hut also rents out rooms. In the morning, the smell from the kitchen wakes me up. Nermin's mum has prepared a hearty breakfast for us: savoury pancakes served with homemade sour cream. Strengthened, we set off on our way back to Umoljani. We now walk along the Rakitnica gorge. And there is a reason for this. Shortly before we reach the village, a plateau with a fascinating winding watercourse stretches out in front of me. "According to legend, the 'Studeni Potok' ('Icy Stream') was created by the tail of the evil dragon as it flew towards the village," explains Faruk as we walk to its banks to have our picnic.
Bosnia-Herzegovina is a country full of magic and authenticity. While the legend of Umoljani symbolises courage and faith, that of Lukomir reveals a deep connection between our ancestors and nature and a belief in the mystical and supernatural. This is an impressive demonstration of how closely nature, history and legends are interwovenand how important it is to never lose touch with nature.
Mirella Sidro, Sarajevo
Farmer Zlata processes the wool of her sheep
At 1455 meters - the village of Lukomir
Municipal motor in the Danube region
The Danube Office Ulm/Neu-Ulm, a non-profit limited company of the two cities, sees itself as a municipal motor for co-operation along the Danube. The team headed by Sebastian Rihm acts as a leading partner in EU projects, as the organiser of the international Danube Festival Ulm/Neu-Ulm and as a connecting element in numerous networks. Sabine Geller, founder and publisher of danube connects, takes stock of the last 10 years in an interview with the Danube Office team and ventures a look into the future.
What has changed in the work of the Danube Office since then and where do you focus your work today?
Sebastian Rihm: The general conditions have changed. We started 2015 with a strong euphoria surrounding the Danube Region Strategy. But the major crises and issues have also impacted the Danube region and us: the migration crisis, the East-West issue, how important it is for Europe to come together, that we need to engage in good dialogue. This has made our topics more serious. Then came Covid and the war of aggression against Ukraine. This has also affected our work. Over the last ten years, the Danube Office has developed
a lot towards professionalisation, for example in terms of its support structure. We have also grown as a team. There are now eleven employees, most of them part-time. I am delighted that our work is supported by the twin cities of Ulm and Neu-Ulm and their political bodies. With our expert conferences, we are blazing a trail along our themes of sustainable mobility, the environment, education and society.
You are a partner in various European projects in the Danube region. What are the aims of the 'Active to Public Transport' Interreg project and what is happening at the moment? What are the benefits of this project for the population?
Simone Burster: We are one of the eleven partners and started in 2024. The project is all about mobility. We want to improve the link between pedestrian and cycle traffic and public transport by bus and train. To this end, we have now completed the first Danube region-wide survey on cycle tourism. The results will be presented at various conferences. There are pilot actions as part of the project. For example, we will be carrying out a test phase here in Ulm. People from the population can register with us to receive a bicycle from us for a period of time and can use it to get around in their everyday lives and leisure time. We will monitor this and evaluate it closely. Such pilot programmes
Kathinka Leyhr and Sebastian Rihm (Head of the Danube Office Ulm/Neu-Ulm)
are also being implemented in four other partner regions. In this way, we can learn from each other and deduce improvements.
Our online survey shows that cycle tourism is more important in Germany and Austria than further down the Danube. But there, too, the aim is to provide more information for cycle tourists, including in English. According to the survey, 90 per cent of people who have cycled in the Danube region can imagine doing it again. So this has great potential.
You are also active in the field of environmental education with 'Danube Guides 2'. What does this project stand for?
Simone Burster: In the current continuation project, we have expanded the network once again to include the Republic of Moldova. We are looking at how we can put the network on a firm footing and keep it alive in the long term by tapping into new funding. You can currently book tours via the Danube Guides website. If you decide to travel to Romania or Bulgaria in the summer, you can book a local nature and culture guide; it's a very authentic experience.
Good political connections to Southeast Europe and the European commitment of the city of Ulm are a tradition in the work of the Danube Office. Where are you currently active in this area?
Sebastian Rihm: Ulm is not twinned with any other city. We are always oriented towards the Danube and have a good exchange with a colourful array of cities, both large and small. We traditionally have very close ties in the triborder region of Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, Vojvodina and Slavonia, as well as with the south of Hungary. Through this commitment over the years, we have been invited by Budapest to become a
member of the Pact of Free Cities. That is why we will be guests in Tirana in just over two weeks' time. This association is committed to an open society, democracy and a Europe of peace and freedom. We want to show that the cities do not stand alone. They are precisely where social cohesion is lived and where answers must be found to the big questions of our time.
Mayor Martin Ansbacher in Ulm and Mayor Katrin Albsteiger in Neu-Ulm are planning a delegation trip to the Danube region. Which countries are you visiting and what is planned in terms of content? Who is part of the delegation?
Sebastian Rihm: This is a four-day delegation trip at the beginning of March. We from the Danube Office are also taking part. We will be visiting four countries.
It's a tight programme with project visits to schools and civil society. It is very important to understand what makes the regions tick and where there are similarities, where we can jointly advance projects such as the Danube Guides. That's why we’ll also visit mayors, district administrators and parliamentary representatives on the trip.
The International Danube Youth Camp is an important part of the activities at the Danube Festival. What is currently going on in terms of youth engagement?
Sebastian Rihm: In addition to the Danube Youth Camp, there have been and continue to be youth encounters throughout the year, such as the Young Danube Bridges in Vienna and various other formats. There were 38 youth events between 2002 and 2024, in which around 3750 young people took part. Our approach is now to define a joint project with the Ministry of Culture. It's called Young Danube Ambassadors.
We are currently in the detailed planning stage and are confident that we will be able to realise this together. It would then also be possible to include the International Danube Youth Camp 2026 as the largest format here in Ulm and Neu-Ulm. This will give young people their very own experience at the Danube Festival: I have to associate something positive and emotional with Europe, a spark has to be ignited. Otherwise Europe remains too theoretical for young people.
The Europe Direct office in Ulm has been affiliated with the Danube office. Will there be independent events for European activities in 2025?
Kathinka Leyhr: Yes, we started organising events on topics such as the EU and security policy in the run-up to the Bundestag (German federal parliament) elections. At the end of February, we organised the Danube rally for schools in both federal states, BadenWürttemberg and Bavaria, together with Europe Direct, for fifth and sixth grades. We are taking part in an event for Women's Day.
We are also taking part in the Europe Action Day. From 3 to 11 July, the Environment Week is a major event. We have a wide range of participants. The Danube Office is simply a great platform, with Europe Direct in our team.
Simone Burster manages EU projects
It's almost a Danube festival on a small scale. And there’s another special event: this year we have a concert with the Croatian band "Elemental" in the Ulm tent on 7 June. They have already played at the Danube Festival and have a large fan base here in Germany.
The vigils for Ukraine and against Russia's inhumane war are organised by the Danube Office and other partners. Can you support the Ukrainian citizens in Ulm with this and will it continue?
Sebastian Rihm: It’s mainly Ukrainians who participate in the vigils. We sometimes wish that the response from the German population would be a little greater. We never tire of organising them as a sign of solidarity. The Ukrainians are the ones who were attacked, our solidarity must be with them and it is important to continue to send out a signal. Our cities do a lot to provide for those who have fled here. We have also
established a solidarity partnership with a city in the south-west of Ukraine and sent donations from the twin cities there.
After the Danube Festival is before the next Danube Festival? Are you already in the planning stages for 2026? Can you reveal anything new about this yet?
Everything is still top secret. But we are already working on the programme for the 14th International Danube Festival. It has always been ambitious to organise such a large-scale event in this day and age. Increasing costs are challenging us more and more, so we have to be clever. We have managed to do this so far. In any case, we can look forward to ten great days again, from 3 to 12 July 2026, and you can let yourself be surprised by the content. There's bound to be something we haven't had before. But the big things are set, as guard rails, with the festival area on the banks of
EVENTS 2025
20.-22. 06. Danube Island Festival, Vienna Europe's largest open-air music festival with free admission
23.-25. 06. INmusic Festival, Zagreb
10. - 13.07. EXIT Festival, Novi Sad Petrovaradin Fortress
10. - 13.07. Garâna Jazz Festival, RO
18. / 20. 07. Historic fishing tournament on the Danube, Ulm
the Danube, with the Danube Countries Market, with the outdoor stages and so on. Civil society has also participated on a voluntary basis, as well as over 50 institutional co-operation partners and a fantastic array of sponsors. Otherwise none of this would be possible.
Interview by Sabine Geller, Ulm
21.07. City holiday Schwörmontag, Ulm
06.-11.08. Sziget Music Festival, Budapest
03.-07.09. Ars Electronica Festival, Linz
04.11. Participation Day Annual Forum
05. - 06.11. EUSDR Annual Forum
12. - 16.11. Vienna Book Fair
Dates without guarantee
30 years after the Bosnian war:
"In my head, I'm still waiting for the war to end for me"
The whole country should have been given psychological therapy after the end of the war," said an employee of one of AMICA's partner organisations in Bosnia, who spent the war in besieged Sarajevo.
The war strategy included violence, particularly against women and girls. It is estimated that between 20,000 and 50,000 women were victims of systematic sexualised war violence. 30 years after the end of the war, their wounds have still not healed.
"Yes, the war is over, but in my head, I am still waiting for the war to end for me," wrote one affected woman in her diary. Like many other women who experienced the war, she found support and solidarity at AMICA.
How does AMICA provide support? AMICA has been supporting women who have experienced sexualised violence in Bosnia and Herzegovina since 1993. The initial humanitarian aid during the war quickly developed into a model project for psychosocial support for traumatised women. This model is still the foundation of AMICA's work today and is based on a central principle: those who are disadvantaged in multiple ways need support on several levels - psychological, medical, legal and economic.
In Bosnia and Herzegovina, many women are not only severely traumatised. Survivors of war violence are also often affected by marginalisation and poverty. Especially in rural, remote and economically weak regions, they find it difficult to (re)build their lives. With the current project, which is cofinanced by the Baden-Württemberg Foundation as part of the “Perspektive Donau” (Perspective Danube) programme, AMICA aims to empower these women. Together with the Bosnian partner organisations, AMICA supports them economically, accompanies them with psychological and social counselling and promotes their participation in society so that they can stand up for their rights independently. Court proceedings are particularly stressful for victims of sexualised wartime violence: AMICA helps women who want to testify against perpetrators in court and/or claim compensation by providing free legal advice and psychological support before, during and after the trial.
Over the years, AMICA's individual counselling and group services have reached numerous women, initially in Tuzla and now in Sarajevo, ProzorRama, Potoci-Vrapčići and Brčko. This gave rise to many self-help groups that
are still working independently today. The most recent example is the "Little Women's Corner" house in the village of Here. This place is a safe space, a meeting place and a creative workshop for disadvantaged and war-traumatised women from the community of Prozor.
They support each other, work together to sell their products at agricultural fairs or learn new techniques for their handicrafts from each other. What they experience above all in "Little Women's Corner" is a solidarity that does them good and creates new perspectives. "We can only bring about change if we work together," said one woman after the opening of the “Little Women's Corner”. This is precisely the idea behind AMICA.
A contribution from AMICA
The Dayton Peace Agreement was signed on 14 December 1995. This ended the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The three years of conflict between 1992 and 1995 were particularly violent and traumatising for the civilian population, who suffered from massive war crimes, "ethnic cleansing", expulsions and sexualised war violence. www.amica-ev.org/bosnien-herzegowina
10 years of danube books publishing Remembering Admiral Mahi´c
Admiral Mahi´c, born in Banja Luka in 1952, was one of the most colourful figures in Bosnian literature. His poems, often characterised by deep melancholy and existential reflection, united people in the region and beyond. This was likely because his poetry moved between an almost surreal imagery and the harsh reality of life in the Balkans. Mahi´c wrote about loss, love, war and the longing for a more peaceful world.
On the tenth anniversary of his death, companions and literary greats met in Sarajevo to honour him. Among them was Brigitte Sax, a close friend of the avant-gardist. The graduate Slavicist and historian presented the bilingual edition (Bosnian/German) containing a selection of his most important works. The idea for this book, entitled "Flirrende Visionen / Lepršava priviđenja" (“Fluttering visions”), was conceived during Admiral Mahić's lifetime. Even then, he entrusted Sax with the poems and the translation: "His words are of timeless beauty and profound truth. He imbued poetry with an almost mystical power. This book is an attempt to let his voice live on".
Thomas Zehender, founder of the publishing house with the wonderful-sounding name Danube Books, agrees: "Coming from multicultural Sarajevo, the Admiral is an important literary voice for Southeast Europe, where he was and is an icon of the art scene.
His powerful and empathetic poetry is an expression of a humanistic and liberal spirit that transcends all national borders and wars. This makes it an important counter-voice to the nationalist tendencies that still exist in the countries of the former Yugoslavia and beyond. It fits perfectly with Danube Books' motto "European without borders".
The publishing house is based in Germany, more precisely in Ulm, and fills a European niche that was previously rather empty. Zehender wants to make literature from south-east Europe even better known in German-speaking countries. So far, 35 books have been published, with five more planned for 2025. The journalist decided to take this step ten years ago, even though many publishers and bookshops were closing. Would he dare to take this step again? "Yes, but I would choose Vienna for the headquarters because there is a better network there, including a personal one, and greater interest in the subject.”
The interest in literature from Southeast Europe existed anyway. Partly through his work on the magazine danube connects. For Zehender, it is a very diverse region that still receives far too little attention.
With its publications, Danube Books sets an important example for the relevance of literature from the Danube region, as it is doing with the collection of Mahić's works, published in German translation for the first time. The collection helps to ensure that the unique voice of the Bosnian-Herzegovinian bohemian continues to be heard and that his memory remains alive.
The event in Sarajevo was an emotional remembrance of a poet who had a decisive influence on Bosnia's literary landscape. Those present shared memories, read poems and discussed the significance of Mahic's work today. It became clear that his words have lost none of their power. They resonate, especially in a world that is still searching for understanding and peace.
Mirella Sidro, Sarajevo
Admiral Mahi´c during at a reading
Thomas Zehender, publisher in Ulm, stands up for Europe
We had actually only travelled to the international conference of the Sultan Trail in the Croatian town of Ilok, which is located on the 2500 kilometre long cycling and hiking route from Vienna to Istanbul. In addition to interesting lectures from all over the world, we were rewarded with a journey through more than 30,000 years of history on just 15 square kilometres!
Ilok, a small but historic town and municipality in eastern Croatia on the border with the Serbian province of Vojvodina, will be celebrating its 500th anniversary in 2025. It is also affectionately known as ‘Little Dubrovnik’ or ‘Dubrovnik of the East’, as important historical documents for the city of Dubrovnik were signed here. However, despite its excellent wines, rich history and spectacular archaeological finds, the city is hardly known outside the country's borders.
Winemaking with an imperial touch Ilok's wine history is inextricably linked to the Odescalchi family. In the 17th century, Emperor Leopold I gave the town to the noble family, who introduced the Traminer grape, among others, here. Their former family residence on the banks of the Danube is now home to a museum. The Stari Podrum, the oldest wine cellar in Croatia dating back to the 15th century, is particularly well known.
A highlight of the cellar is the last surviving largest and oldest barrel, ‘Dušica’, dating from 1953, which once held an impressive 9,076 litres of wine. Ho-
SULTAN TRAIL IN CROATIAOf Royal Wines and Mammoth Valley
wever, the real jewel of the winery is the archive with over 8,000 bottles, which were saved by a protective wall during the Balkan War in the 1990s. Particularly noteworthy is the Traminer from the 1947 vintage, which was served at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.
The Mammoth Valley of Mohovo
The village of Mohovo is just 15 kilometres from Ilok. The small, sleepy village with only 200 inhabitants became famous in the region when young Goran Popović came across huge bones while digging a pit in his garden in 2012. As it later turned out, it was the baby tooth of a mammoth.
Four years later, in autumn 2016, he found more fossils just 500 metres away. In addition to mammoths, the remains of woolly rhinoceroses, hyenas, wild horses and bison were also found. The discovery brought scientists from Zagreb to the scene, who have been thoroughly investigating the area since October 2024. New finds came to light, including another mammoth tooth and a rhinoceros skull. The fossils date back to the last ice age and are between 18,000 and 30,000 years old.
From slumber to the Flintstones rally
The sensational finds brought the region back to life thanks to Goran. The likeable chef founded the ‘Mammoth Valley’ association in 2017, which is committed to preserving the cultural heritage and promoting the region. Alongside the Mammoth Museum, its biggest highlight is the Mammoth Festival, which has been taking place since
2021. The highlight of the event, which is also attended by neighbours from Serbia on the other side of the Danube: The rally in replicas of the Flintstones vehicles, which takes place every year in October during the grape harvest. If you don't want to wait that long, there is a Fred Flintstone car next to a life-size mammoth figure at the entrance to the village, inviting you to take a test drive. Mobility couldn't be more sustainable! Except travelling by bike or on foot on the Sultan Trail that runs along here.
Mirella Sidro, Sarajevo
INFOS
SULTANS TRAIL - From Vienna to Istanbul
European Cultural Route https://www.sultanstrail.net
ILOK
https://visitilok.croatia.hr
Goran Popovic shows us the mammoth tooth
Ilok with a rich history
Fit for (working) life.
A pilot programme to strengthen the life skills of disadvantaged young people in Bosnia-Herzegovina
Between August 2022 and April 2023, Pharos e.V. Stuttgart and its partner organisation in Bosnia-Herzegovina, the Faros association, worked with around 40 young people from socially disadvantaged families - many of whom belong to the Roma minority. The project was carried out as part of the Baden-Württemberg Stiftung's Perspektive Donau (Perspective Danube) programme and with funding from the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ).
The aim was to strengthen the resilience of the participants and promote important life skills. In addition to four weekend workshops, they received individual support in the form of four personal coaching sessions and a monthly grant. All participants are students from vocational schools.
Ingrid Halbritter, project coordinator at Pharos e.V. Stuttgart, reports:
What has changed in the young people as a result of the educational programme?
The pedagogical faculty of the University of Zenica has evaluated the programme. The evaluation shows that the young people have improved their selfawareness and social skills and that the project objectives have therefore been achieved. The documented statements from the interviews are motivating: "I have learnt to do something useful with my life", "I can connect with my feelings and needs and communicate better", "I have more self-confidence (...)", "I can now speak in front of a group without
being afraid". This is a small selection of around one hundred statements that all go in this direction.
And what were your personal impressions? We - four team leaders - got to know 40 young people, 40 universes, during these months. During the magic moments, we were touched by how some of them suddenly took off their protective armour and were able to share their pain and frustration with us. Some of them, who came from particularly difficult family backgrounds with a lot of violence, dared to confide in us. One boy asked our psychotherapist for a therapy session for depression. Another boy with physical and mental disabilities became visibly more independent and really belonged.
Were there any particularly memorable moments for you?
When working on the topic of "Prejudices, stereotypes and beliefs", the
penny dropped for most of them. They were able to recognise for themselves with fascinating clarity that the stereotypes they initially believed to be true are generally not useful in their lives and that they have the freedom to choose other values. Over time, we clearly noticed that most of them found it easier with each workshop to recognise their feelings and needs and put them into words. Without any help from us, the young people managed to conjure up a delicious dinner for everyone every Saturday evening and leave the kitchen spotless afterwards.
Were there any challenges?
Again and again we sat in the plenum and had no chance of getting their attention. Once, nobody was there at the start of the workshop because they were too tired to get up after a night of partying. I was often touched and fulfilled with them, but the dominant feeling was one of sadness and helplessness.
Why?
They have such a difficult start in life due to the context in which they grow up: Poverty, marginalisation, a parental home with physical and psychological violence and unhappy relationships, drug abuse, a lack of security, exchange and support.
What does it take for these young people to develop into resilient adults?
On the one hand, it would take so much for them to develop into healthy adults, and we can only give them that little bit. And on the other hand, I know that sometimes it doesn't take much to strengthen the heart. To this day, I am still nourished by the loving treatment I received from a teacher at secondary school. Our pedagogical team is unanimous: Yes! It was worth it! And: We need more programmes like this!
