CWB 123

Marie Bradburn, schoolwear agent and deputy of the Schoolwear Association, reflects on 35 years in the industry

FEATURES

16: ECO-FRIENDLY CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

Eco-conscious children’s gifts available to get in-store before Christmas

18: WANT TO MANUFACTURE IN THE UK?

Kate Hills, founder and CEO of Make it British, discusses the nuts and bolts of manufacturing in the UK

20: SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY UK

CWB takes a look at what’s in store for the 10th anniversary Small Business Saturday UK tour

22: BASE CHILDRENSWEAR

The latest developments for luxury childrenswear retailer Base

23: THE INSIGHTS FAMILY REPORT

How children are influenced through their interactions with the digital world

SCHOOLWEAR

26: NEWS

33: THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW

What’s in store for this year’s event

36: Q&A WITH BANNER’S CEO

Glenn Leech talks through Banner’s acquisition of William Turner, the company’s advancements in sustainability and this year’s Back to School

39: LESSONS IN PRE-LOVED SCHOOL UNIFORM

Independent schoolwear retailers discuss the ins and outs of incorporating pre-loved school uniform into their offers

42: THE MAKING OF ONE+ALL

Neil Ward, MD of B Corp schoolwear supplier One+All, introduces the company’s new brand and the role it will play in its long-term strategy

46: GOING FULL CIRCLE

CWB speaks to Kathryn Shuttleworth, MD of David Luke, to learn more about the company’s pioneering vision to make its school uniform 100 per cent recyclable

49: SPORTSWEAR WINNERS

Bringing you up to speed on the latest launches and developments in school sportswear

53: FINISHING TOUCHES

CWB’s pick of school accessories and footwear

56: SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION UPDATE

How the Schoolwear Association is helping to uphold industry standards and support families during the cost of living crunch

COMMENT

I would like to begin this issue with a heartfelt thank you; first and foremost, to the NCWA – Sharon Beardsworth, David Burgess, Liz Fox, Michelle Payne and Ken Scates – to whom I am so grateful, both for giving me the opportunity to run CWB independently and for their ongoing encouragement. I would also like to thank all of our advertisers for their continued support, we couldn’t do it without you, so thank

The September/October issue marks the end of summer and a spotlight on schoolwear, as we gear up for the annual Schoolwear Show. Hosted at Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre in Solihull, The Schoolwear Show runs from Sunday 9 October to Monday 10 October. Dedicated solely to the independent schoolwear retailer, the two-day exhibition will enable visitors to meet new and existing suppliers face to face, view the latest products, and make important plans for Back to School 2023.

You can find out more about the show in this issue, along with interviews with some of the industry’s key players. Banner’s CEO Glenn Leech covers everything from the recent acquisition of William Turner to the company’s latest advancements in sustainability, while One+All’s MD Neil Ward tells CWB more about the business’s new brand. Elsewhere, Kathryn Shuttleworth, MD of David Luke, reveals a pioneering vision to make David Luke School Uniform 100 per cent recyclable, and schoolwear agent and deputy chair of the Schoolwear Association, Marie Bradburn, reflects on 35 years in the industry. We also have the latest from the Schoolwear Association itself, and how it is helping to uphold industry standards and support families during the cost of living

Othercrisis.hot

topics in schoolwear this issue include pre-loved school uniform, with independent schoolwear retailers addressing the ins and outs of incorporating second-hand into their offers. We also have a spotlight on sportswear, from the latest developments and trends to how the use of sportswear is changing in schools, plus an overview of school accessories and footwear.

Alongside The Schoolwear Show, October will also see Small Business Saturday UK – the campaign known for shining a spotlight on small firms − embark on a special 10th-anniversary tour. The Tour’s fleet of electric and zero-emissions vehicles will visit 23 towns and cities across the UK, kicking off in Glasgow on 31 October. It will then move on to visit small firms in locations such as Fife, York, Cardiff and Padstow throughout November, before finishing in London ready for the run-up to Small Business Saturday on 3 December. You’ll find everything you need to know about the campaign and The Tour in this issue.

Furthermore, Harrogate International Nursery Fair will return on 16-18 October, taking five halls at the Harrogate Convention Centre. Alongside a host of new exhibitors − including childrenswear − the show will also play host to numerous returning brands launching fresh ranges for 2023.

This year has certainly flown by, it’s hard to believe we are now starting work on our December/January print edition. If you would like to be involved in that issue, please don’t hesitate to contact me at laura@cwbmedia.co.uk. In the meantime, don’t miss our online content via CWB’s website, weekly newsletters and social media channels.

Laura Turner, editor Childrenswear Buyer

NEWS ROUND-UP

INDX KIDSWEAR CONTINUES TO EVOLVE FOR 2023

INDX Kidswear, the UK’s only dedicated trade show for the childrenswear industry, will return to Cranmore Park Conference and Exhibition Centre in Solihull on Sunday 29 and Monday 30 January 2023. The event, which has now almost sold out, will showcase an inclusive mix of new signings and key returns, with product ranges spanning from apparel for newborns to teens, to footwear, formalwear and accessories.

NEW LUXURY BABYWEAR BRAND LITTLE CRUSOE

New for 2022, babywear brand Little Crusoe specialises in luxury resort and loungewear for 0 to 2 years. Brand founder Jenny Maddox started the business after leaving a corporate flying career and taking time out to start a family.

“I wanted to build a career for myself around having a family,” says Maddox. “I was determined to bring this dream of my own brand to life. I spent a lot of time reading, researching and learning as much as possible about the industry. And, inspired by my love of travel and nostalgia for childhood and happy family holidays, Little Crusoe was born.”

Little Crusoe focuses on minimalist style with statement detail and classic pieces with a contemporary edge, all complemented by a soft colour palette. Incorporating “special moment pieces” with everyday wear, the collection comprises rompers, a two-piece bloomer set, shorts, leggings and body suits. Furthermore, the entire collection is made in jersey and Oeko-Tex linen, hand-finished with signature embroidery and shell button detail. The entire Little Crusoe collection is also coordinated to enable siblings to dress similarly but not necessarily the same.

GRASS&AIR CIRCULARITYBOOSTS

Grass&Air has partnered with Dotte to help encourage customers to buy or sell pre-loved items from the brand. Speaking about the partnership is Melissa McClaverty, business development manager at Grass&Air. “We’d love our ‘Adventure Crew’ to get involved with this cutting-edge resale collective and are offering a £5 voucher incentive to anyone who chooses to resell on Dotte. There are so many quality brands on its resale platform that are ready to be passed on from your family to the next. Dotte is another fantastic way families can make a sustainable wardrobe swap and help keep our clothes and wellies in circulation for longer, seamlessly integrating with other circularity initiatives we offer through our website, such as Reskinned.”

INDX Kidswear offers a relaxed, business and buyer-focused format, and is a key orderwriting show for the childrenswear industry. The 2023 shows will continue building on this by strengthening key product areas including footwear and teenwear, as well as providing a growing platform for new and emerging labels and those championing sustainability.

Furthermore, the show’s Best Dressed Stand competition will return in January following a successful launch last season that saw hair accessories brand Verity Jones London scoop the award.

As part of the INDX trade show portfolio, which is brought to market by leading UK buying group Associated Independent Stores (AIS Ltd), INDX Kidswear is open to all retailers and is free to attend. Visitors also enjoy free onsite parking and complimentary refreshments. To register for the show, please visit www.indxshows.co.uk. You can also follow @INDXFashion for the event’s latest news and updates.

KIDSWEAR COLLECTIVE EXTENDS PARTNERSHIPSELFRIDGES

Kidswear Collective, the UK’s largest pre-loved kidswear consignment platform specialising in designer and luxury fashion, has confirmed a partnership expansion with Selfridges.

Kidswear Collective first opened as a three-month pop-up in the kidswear department at Selfridges’ flagship store on Oxford Street in March 2020. It has now opened in two further stores in Birmingham and Manchester, Trafford. All three stores carry pieces for babies and kids aged 0 to 14 years, with the edit comprising clothing, footwear and accessories.

In addition to the store-wide expansion, Kidswear Collective has launched an edit on Selfridges.com offering stand-out pieces from bestselling designer brands.

KIT & KIN BECOMES A CERTIFIED B CORPORATION

Kit & Kin has achieved B Corp Certification, placing the babycare brand among the world’s most sustainable and ethical businesses. B Corp Certification measures a company’s entire social and environmental impact and is awarded to businesses that meet only the highest standards of performance, accountability and transparency.

“Since the very beginning, we wanted to create a brand that helps to make the world a better place, putting environmental and social responsibility at its core − which is why this validation means so much to us,” says Emma Bunton, co-founder of Kit & Kin. “It’s an honour to be a part of the global B Corp movement, and together we can continue to make a real difference.”

GROWTH FOR ISTANBUL FASHION CONNECTION

PUDDLESCOLLECTIONPLANETBYMUDDY

NEW HAPPY

Following on from the success of the Joy and Positivity range for s/s 22, children’s outerwear brand Muddy Puddles is launching the new Happy Planet collection for s/s 23.

The collection features the same products re-imagined with a new colour palette and prints. This includes an exclusive puffin print curated with The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), with Muddy Puddles donating 10 per cent of sales from the print to the charity.

Pieces include EcoLight Jackets, EcoLight Puddlesuits, waterproof robes, a UV swimwear range and a towelling poncho. All Muddy Puddles gear is made from 100 per cent recycled materials with a water and dirt repellent PFC free Bionic Finish® Eco coating and is packaged in biodegradable polybags.

KIND + JUGEND ASEAN 2023 DEBUT

Kind + Jugend, the trade fair for baby and toddler products, will bring its first ASEAN edition to Thailand on 5-8 April 2023. The inaugural Kind + Jugend ASEAN is expected to draw over 3,000 trade visitors from all over the region and over 200 exhibiting companies from around the world. The event, which will include the Kind + Jugend ASEAN Innovation Award, business matching, seminars, workshops, trend forums and academic conferences, will be strongly supported by the Thai Toy and Children Product Trade Association and the Thai Chamber of Commerce.

Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO) enjoyed a successful second edition on 24-26 August 2022 at the Istanbul Expo Center. As a central hub between Europe and Asia, IFCO welcomed almost 15,500 visitors from the EU, UK, USA, Middle East and Gulf countries, amongst others. The show’s 15,000 sq. m of exhibition space saw over 300 companies showcase their collections and production capacities across kidswear, womenswear, menswear, denim, shoes, leather and fur, lingerie and sportswear.

Turkey’s global apparel exports in H1 2022 amount to USD 12.4 billion, with USD 7.7 billion to the EU alone. Despite the difficult global conditions, this figure is forecast to reach 23 billion USD by the end of 2022. For the February 2023 event, therefore, plans include expanding the show’s sourcing area with a new dedicated hall.

PROJECT EARTH UPDATE

Selfridges has shared its first annual report following the launch of its sustainability strategy, Project Earth, in August 2020. The report details the initiative’s progress and the next steps to sustainably reinvent retail. New targets for 2030 include 45 per cent of transactions across the four stores and online to come from circular products and services, and to only stock products that meet strict environmental and ethical standards. Last year, as a signatory to the Climate Pledge, the retailer accelerated its net zero carbon commitment by 10 years to 2040. To achieve this, Selfridges is moving from a period of exploration into a phase of accelerating change through new commitments across materials, models and mindsets.

FRUGI JOINS THE COTTON LIVES ON™ PROGRAMME

BLOOMSBURY MILL JOINS DANIEL STORES

Award-winning children’s brand Bloomsbury Mill has landed on the shelves of heritage retailer Daniel, which has stores in Windsor, Ealing and Chiswick. The retail group selected Bloomsbury Mill as part of its new nursery range.

Daniel prides itself on providing excellent service to its customers both in-store and online. At the head of the team is Peter Daniel, the current chairman and grandson of the original founder. Daniel customers can shop a selection of Bloomsbury Mill’s hero products, including organic cotton cellular blankets and muslins as well as children’s bedding.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Sustainable outdoor kids’ brand Isbjörn of Sweden has won the Bästi-Test (Best in Test) award in the premium category for its Penguin Snowsuit for the ninth consecutive year. The annual test saw the bluesign® approved snowsuit graded highly for durability and quality to ensure long shelf life, superior thermal performance, water and abrasion resistance, and comfort.

Jonathon Brown has been named as the new CEO of Joules following Nick Jones stepping down from the role. Brown initially joined the Group as CEO designate on 7 September 2022 before becoming CEO on 30 September after a short handover period. Brown has a strong track record of improving performance and implementing strategic transformation programmes across several digital and retail businesses.

Childrenswear brand Frugi is collaborating with the Cotton Lives On™ recycling programme, which extends the life of cotton in a way that helps both people and planet.

The programme focuses on recycling old cotton and diverting it from landfill, including giving life to worn-out cotton clothing as roll mats often provided to people experiencing homelessness. Through the collaboration, Frugi has contributed significantly to the production and delivery of the programme’s first mattresses made from 3600kg of cotton.

Prolonging the life of new clothes is a significant goal for Frugi’s sustainable journey and includes rental partnerships with the thelittleloop and Hire Street and joining the Circular Textiles Foundation to design a system of fibre-to-fibre recycling for future collections.

The John Lewis Partnership is recruiting over 10,000 temporary roles across the country this Christmas to meet increased demand over the busy festive period. The retailer has also confirmed it will offer free food to all existing Partners and temporary workers from 3 October to 6 January to help with the cost of living. Jobs include 2,000 temporary roles in the Partnership’s 34 John Lewis stores, including sales and merchandising positions.

NCWA

Vice

NCWA NEWS

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT

of us had hoped that with a new vaccination programme about to begin and with most restrictions having eased, we were learning to live with Covid and could look forward to more settled times. The war in Ukraine and disruption to energy supplies are threatening all this, at least in the short term.

Talk of “energy price caps” and the frightening levels which energy prices might reach this winter have been dominating the headlines, along, of course, with speculation about the identity of the new Prime Minister.

Whilst the latter is now known, news is emerging of the measures that HM Government is proposing to put in place to help hard-pressed households and businesses. Let us hope that they will be sufficient to maintain consumer confidence, which took such a hit in the early months of the pandemic. It is to be hoped too that the measures to be taken will help bring down inflation.

It is reassuring that there is to be help for businesses, albeit only for six months in the first instance. We shall have to ensure thereafter that the costs of manufacturing and of keeping retail outlets open are properly understood by those in Government and at Westminster.

On a lighter note, demand for outerwear garments could soar as consumers try to keep their energy consumption as low as possible. It has also been suggested that there will be a move away from working at home, as employees seek warmth paid for by their employers. We shall see.

October is a very busy month for exhibitions in the UK. The annual “Schoolwear Show” is on the 9th and 10th, Textile Forum is on the 12th and 13th and the Harrogate Nursery Fair runs from the 16th – 18th. There still seems to be reluctance on the part of many to travel abroad to Shows, so I am hoping that all three exhibitions will see increased footfall this autumn and that whether you are exhibiting or visiting they will be successful in a business sense. I think many of us too will be glad to see some familiar faces (as well as new ones) and to be able to exchange news and talk business in person.

If you would like to know more about NCWA, do get in touch with us at NCWA, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488; info@ncwa.co.uk. Or look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk.

Elizabeth P Fox Executive Director

COUNCIL

Membership is everyone

President: KEN SCATES,

Executive Director:

OPEN TO BUSINESS

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANCELLING AND TERMINATING A CONTRACT?

Although in general terms retail sales remain positive, with the June figures showing a 4.4 per cent rise in the amount spent compared to the same period a year earlier, the quantity bought dropped by 5.8 per cent as the price increase trend gathers pace.

It is against this backdrop that suppliers and customers must assess their contracts and whether the terms still reflect the needs of both parties in this fast-changing commercial environment. But once signed, can changes be made to the contract?

In general terms, once a contract has been agreed it becomes binding and the parties will be legally bound to perform according to the contractual terms and conditions. However, in reality, it is not always that simple and things can go wrong.

If one party feels the contract is not being upheld, depending on the type of breach, they could either affirm the contract and claim damages; they could try to terminate the contract, or they might wish to cancel the contract, known legally as rescission.

TERMINATING A CONTRACT

Terminating a contract will require either or both parties to meet the obligations within the contract (such as confidentiality clauses or restrictive covenants). It essentially involves bringing the contract to an end to put the parties in the position as if the contract had taken

Terminationplace.

happens by following an express termination clause in the contract itself by giving notice to the other party to terminate the contract. It can also happen if there is an implied clause permitting a party(ies) to terminate under common or statute law or automatically (e.g. if the contract has been frustrated).Termination

clauses can sometimes be unilateral and depending on the wording of the express clause and the circumstances, this could give rise to an unfair contract term argument.

RESCINDING A CONTRACT

Rescinding a contract, however, means both parties are restored to the position they were in before the contract was entered into. When a contract is rescinded, it is set aside entirely – it is as if the contract never existed, and it therefore removes the parties’ obligations under the contract.

Rescission is an equitable remedy against a party who has committed a breach of contract, usually for misrepresentation or mistake. But rescinding is only applicable if the contract has not been affirmed.

AFFIRMING A CONTRACT

Affirming a contract refers to the continued application of contractual terms after a repudiatory breach has occurred, with the sole intention of claiming damages in light of that breach.

A repudiatory breach of contract takes place when one party

fails or refuses to perform a fundamental term or condition of the contract. The other party can either choose to accept that repudiatory breach of contract and rescind the contract, or they can choose to continue with it (affirm it) and claim damages instead; the circumstances will usually dictate the better option for the party not inThisbreach.isjust one reason why action to rescind a contract has to be taken promptly once a sufficient breach has been noted. Any delay could be used by the other party to argue that the contract was affirmed and thus the chance to rescind has been missed.

TO RESCIND OR AFFIRM?

Because rescinding renders a contract retrospectively non-existent, the innocent party needs to consider what will give them the best outcome. That could include the return of valuable property being returned to Rescindingthem.a contract is not initiated by a Court, but by either of the contractual parties. The innocent party will inform the offending party of their intentions and if the matter is subject to litigation, the Court will decide whether rescinding the contract was legally valid. If it was, the Court will make orders designed to give effect to the rescission of the contract.

Rescission will not be found valid by the Court if it believes the contract was affirmed, if a third party has acquired rights to any property subject to the rescission, or if it is impossible for the parties to be restored to their positions before entering into the contract.Both sides of the transaction have to be returned to their original position for a contract to be rescinded. In some occurrences, this may prove challenging because the nature of the business or the property involved has been destroyed or substantially altered. The circumstances, therefore, have to be analysed before a decision is made to exercise rescission as it cannot be undone.Navigating the exit of a contract can be extremely complex, especially if it depends on whether one of the parties is in breach or not, and is not something to be undertaken without expert legal advice. Failure to do so could be catastrophic for the continuation of a business, both with regard to finances and reputation.

Katarina Morgan is a solicitor in the Commercial Litigation Department at Taylor Walton. She has experience in commercial litigation matters, particularly in contractual disputes, professional negligence, debt and insolvency, director and shareholder disputes, partnership disputes, contentious probate matters and property litigation, including TOLATA claims. www.taylorwalton.com

BRINGING

THERAPYRETAIL

We reveal our favourite independent boutiques, as well as news from the world of childrenswear retail.

HOWELA

16 Station Road, Knowle, Solihull B93 0HT

Owned by Lucy and Josh Keay, childrenswear store Howela was created in lockdown when Lucy, who had always wanted to explore children’s retail, found the time to do so when she was unable to work on her other business. Opening its doors in Knowle, Solihull, in June, Howela is still brand new. Its premises, however, are a little more familiar to Lucy. “I’ve come full circle, really,” she says. “I only handed back the keys to 16 Station Road six years ago when my salon - The Boutique, now based in the Corn Exchange - outgrew the unit.”

Howela presents children’s clothing hand-selected by parents for being “cute, comfortable and caring,” with a focus on strong ethics and attitude toward social responsibility.

Brands include Mayoral, Slipfree, Mintini Baby and local designers Jammie Doodles and Twirly Skirts. Complementing the clothes are toys from brands such as Sass & Belle, Studio Circus and Recycle Me. “We’ve focused on stocking sustainable products that are well made and attractive and fun for children,” adds Lucy.

connecting mums and dads – especially new parents − with local support groups and playgroups and sharing a notice board in the shop to highlight other local businesses such as children’s play classes and parenting clubs. Plans for Howela include co-owner Josh’s aspiration to develop the store’s own clothing range further

LARK KIDS

6 St Thomas Street, Winchester, Hampshire SO23 9HE

Jennifer O’Sullivan always wanted to be a shopkeeper. Having studied buying and fashion business at the London College of Fashion, followed by a long career in retail management and having her three children, she decided to put her interests and training to work. In November 2021, children’s independent shoe shop Lark Kids was born from a passion for footwear and a true love of old-fashioned customer service.

“After the closure of Russell & Bromley Kids, where I spent seven years managing one of their children’s departments, I knew there was a gap in the market for a children’s retailer specialising in fitting with knowledge, service and beautiful products at the heart of everything,” says O’Sullivan.Offeringacontemporary store with a touch of Scandi-styling, Lark Kids keeps it simple and lets the shoes do the talking. Brands include Start-Rite, Bobux, Aigle, Anglus, Young Soles, Zig + Star and Hummel, alongside a selection of accessory brands.

With a focus on customer service, flexibility, and working with the local community and fellow independent businesses, O’Sullivan aims to continue to develop and learn whilst evolving the business with the needs of customers. www.larkkids.co.uk having children, however, Procter and Finn created an online children’s store founded on the belief that babies and children should be nurtured in a natural and non-toxic environment. Dylan + Dora prides itself on only housing brands with the same ethos and sustainable practices, including Babai Toys, Hevea, Avery Row, MarMar Copenhagen, Dantoy, That’s Mine, Hello Hossy, Lucy Darling and Saga Copenhagen, to name a few.

FLAGSHIP STORE

Purpose-led fashion brand Scamp & Dude has opened a permanent bricks and mortar retail flagship. Located on the vibrant high street of Marlow, Buckinghamshire, the 1,569 sq. ft immersive retail space showcases the brand’s growing collection of womenswear, accessories and childrenswear. It is also a space to celebrate the power of community − something that sits at the heart of Scamp & Dude − from ongoing charity campaigns and give back programmes to experiential events.

Sophie Proctor and her partner John Finn launched baby and kids’ concept store, Dylan + Dora, in April. Pre-Dylan + Dora, Proctor played tennis at an elite standard, representing Great Britain from the age of 10, and also delved into a television production career, with her last production winning a Bafta back in 2016. After

The next big step for the new business is to ship outside the UK. Product-wise, alongside the store’s practical products, the duo would like Dylan + Dora to also be known for its curated selection of clothing for 0 to 8 years, again with sustainability being at the heart of the brands it works with.

SMALL STUFF WINS HIGH STREET HERO AWARD

This year’s Small Awards saw Small Stuff − a children’s store that combines sustainable toys and products with a community hub supporting local businesses and families − win the High Street Hero award for its positive impact on the community. Founder Hellen Stirling-Baker, who grew the business from a pop-up in 2016 to having permanent premises in Sheffield’s Crookes district three years ago, impressed judges with her passionate support of the local high street.

Sustainable baby and childrenswear website, My Little Green Wardrobe, won the Best Sustainable Berkshire Business in the Muddy Stilettos Awards. The awards saw fierce competition, with 75,000 businesses nominated nationwide. My Little Green Wardrobe curates sustainably produced and ethically made clothing for children aged 0 to 6 years and allows customers to filter items according to their values, including ‘people’, ‘planet’, ‘vegan’ and ‘gives back.’

John Lewis has partnered with childrenswear rental brand thelittleloop for its exclusive first foray into clothing rental. The retailer is launching a trial with thelittleloop that will give parents the choice to rent their children’s clothing to limit waste and create a circular solution. The partnership launches with items ranging from baby up to 12 years and includes wardrobe staples made from more sustainable raw materials, such as recycled polyester. IN BRIEF

Bertish and Company Ltd, creator and owner of children’s character brand Zuma the Dog, has joined the OnBuy.com marketplace to help make the company’s new branded merchandise more accessible. OnBuy, which reported 224 per cent revenue growth in 2021, is the fourth largest marketplace in the UK. From small specialist outlets to leading household names, the platform has seen major growth over recent years.

01: LITTLE BEACON

TOBRANDSWATCH EDITOR LAURA TURNER SELECTS GETCOLLECTIONSMUST-HAVETOINSTORE.

Australian designer Rachel Walker launched Little Beacon after struggling to find simple, beautiful textiles for her son Alexis. A hand-block printed textile brand inspired by nature, Little Beacon offers gender-neutral palettes, plant-based dyes, GOTS certified organic cotton and Oeko-Tex certified linen. Each print begins with blocks designed and carved by Walker. Limited runs are then hand printed at her studio in the north of England, or later hand block printed by artisans at a small mill in India. Pieces include organic cotton muslin products, wall art, and a new collection of zero-waste self-care products using muslin off-cuts. Wholesale prices £6 to £60.

www.little-beacon.com

02: HOUSE OF MARGAUX

House of Margaux is expanding into wholesale with its sustainable fashion for newborn to 11 years. Ethically produced in the UK and inspired by founders Cassandra and Ben Douglas’ love of pop art, each item is hand cut, hand sewn and designed to match or clash. Pieces include leggings, rompers, sweatshirts and accessories in organic cotton and bamboo. Environmental impact and sustainability are at the forefront of this brand, from the packaging to its support of One Tribe to help protect rainforests. House of Margaux will be available to view at stand M70 at the Baby Show Olympia on 21-21 October. Wholesale prices £10 to £15. houseofmargaux.faire.com

03: ELI & AMALIA

Family-run, sustainable and ethical childrenswear brand Eli & Amalia was launched in December 2021 by Nadine Willie and Fabio Jesus D’Elia. Committed to using only recycled or sustainable fabrics, the brand is GRS and GOTS certified, environmentally friendly, and supply chain transparent. Designed in London and made in Italy, collections include all product categories for a well-balanced lifestyle approach across three to four colour/print stories to be delivered in different drops, or mixed and matched all at once. For s/s 23, The Ocean collection includes vibrant and sustainable unisex designs, all-over jellyfish and coral reef prints, and nautical stripes. Sizes are 5 to 12 years and wholesale prices are £9 to £33.

www.eliandamalia.com

04: TICKETY-BOO

From the designers and owners of Me & Henry and Vignette, Tickety-Boo is a brand-new baby line launched for s/s 23. Delivering a collection that brings layette − those first important pieces in a baby’s wardrobe − right up to date, TicketyBoo offers bespoke, hand-painted watercolour designs printed on bamboo. A 100 per cent natural fabric, bamboo is hypoallergenic, UV protective, eco-friendly, biodegradable, moisture repellent and temperature regulating. Key pieces from the collection include sleep gowns, playsuits, bodies, rompers, shorts, leggings and dresses for 0 to 24 months. Tickety-Boo is available via Blue Mouse Agency. Wholesale prices £11.50 to £18.50. www.bluemouseagency.com

05: LOLA STARR

Lola Starr, known for its trans-seasonal, multi-functional fashion for boys and girls, has a new sustainable athleisure collection made from ECONYL®. This regenerated nylon is made entirely from waste that would otherwise pollute the Earth and boasts high UV protection and chlorine, suntan cream and oil resistance, with no pilling or abrasions. Produced in the UK in small batches to limit waste, Lola Starr offers trend-free, timeless designs that are made to last. The mix and match athleisure range − also available for adults − includes double-sided and fully reversible sports tops and a unisex tracksuit with detachable sleeves and joggers that turn into shorts. Junior sizes are 7 to 12 years and XS to XL for adults. Wholesale prices on request.

www.lolastarr.co.uk

LAURA LOVES

PATCH WORLD

DIY explorer costume patch kit packaged on a recycled cardboard activity booklet. Wholesale price hello@wearepatchworld.com£8.50

HAPPY HORSE

Soft toys with 100 per cent recycled polyester stuffing.

Wholesale prices from £6 to £17.50 Sales@finestforbaby.co.uk

KALOO

Carré Douceur soft comforter made entirely from recycled materials and presented in a gift box.

Wholesale price on sales@juratoys.co.ukrequest

LITTLE CLOUD 9

Baby bonnet and booties set hand crocheted in merino wool.

Wholesale price £12.50 per set clairedalb@hotmail.co.uk

FLOSS & ROCK

A belt bag to wear around the waist or over the shoulder with a front pocket and fully printed lining.

Wholesale price Denise@flossandrock.co.uk£6.25

LUMIMI

Handmade wooden children’s lamps designed in Norway.

Wholesale prices on sapatosbystuart@gmail.comrequest

EXHIBITIONCALENDAR

CWB’s guide to the upcoming UK and international trade shows.

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW 9-10 October 2022 www.theschoolwearshow.co.uk

TEXTILE FORUM 12-13 October 2022 www.textileforum.org.uk

HARROGATE INTERNATIONAL NURSERY FAIR 16-18 October 2022 www.nurseryfair.com

CHIC AUTUMN 21-23 October 2022 www.chicfair.com

SUNDAY SCHOOL 15 January 2023 www.sunday-school.nl

TOP DRAWER

15-17 January 2023 www.topdrawer.co.uk

PITTI BIMBO 18-20 January 2023 www.pittimmagine.com

BABYKID SPAIN + FIMI 26-28 January 2023 www.babykidspain.com

PLAYTIME PARIS 28-30 January 2023 www.iloveplaytime.com

INDX KIDSWEAR 29-30 January 2023 www.indxshows.co.uk

CIFF KIDS 1-3 February 2023 www.ciff.dk

SPRING FAIR/MODA 5-8 February 2023 www.springfair.com

ISTANBUL 8-11CONNECTIONFASHIONFebruary2023 www.ifco.com.tr

PLAYTIME & KID’S HUB NEW 12-14YORKFebruary 2023 www.iloveplaytime.com

CHIC SPRING 8-10 March 2023 www.chicfair.com

INDX TOYS & NURSERY GIFTS 18-19 April 2023 www.indxshows.co.uk

All details correct at the time of going to print. Please contact show organisers directly for further details before making travel arrangements.

CHRISTMASECO-FRIENDLYGIFTGUIDE

CWB’s pick of eco-conscious children’s gifts, all available to get in-store before Christmas.

JAMMIE DOODLES

A Christmas Eve box containing children’s organic cotton pyjamas, environmentally friendly reindeer food, and a naughty or nice certificate from Father Christmas.

Wholesale price £13 / info@jammiedoodles.com

PLAYPRESS TOYS

Manufactured in the UK using a compostable material made with wood pulp from sustainably managed forests, Playpress buildable playsets can be switched up and adjusted with every use. (Pictured: The Gruffalo Eco-Friendly Playset)

KEEL TOYS

Keeleco is the 100 per cent recycled range from Keel Toys, which is manufactured and stuffed with 100 per cent recycled polyester from plastic waste The Reindeer with Scarf is available in three sizes.

Wholesale price from £5 / sales@keeltoys.com

Wholesaleseparately. price £4.80 / hello@helloplaydough.co.uk

GREEN & HEATH

Handmade in Britain, this unisex children’s stocking features a woodland walk landscape with bears, stags and birds, a green velvet top, and a ribbon hook. Wholesale price £12.50 / katy@greenandheath.co.uk

STUDIO CIRCUS

A gender-neutral design with 40 movable wooden beads, the Rainbow Abacus is made using ethically sourced products and manufacturers, and the wood carries the FSC mark.

Wholesale price £7.50 / info@insideouttoys.co.uk

WILLSOW

Willsow’s plantable kids’ books feature a vegetable or herb character in a story that holds a meaningful message. After finishing the story, kids can plant the non-GMO seedembedded cover pages to grow healthy vegetables and herbs. Wholesale price £5 (minimum 25 books) / grace@willsow.com

SNAILS

A mini three-pack of gentle, cruelty-free nail varnishes that don’t require solvent remover and simply wash off with soap and Wholesalewater. price £6.25 / info@insideouttoys.co.uk

Made from Ecoline renewable sugar cane plastic, the Jumbo Fire Truck is 100 per cent recyclable, toxin-free and comes in a presentation box with a Plant a Tree Guarantee.

Wholesale price £12.50 / info@insideouttoys.co.uk

Laura Turner: What is Make it British’s mission?

Kate Hills: The focus has evolved over the years, but the main one currently is to help and support British brand founders who want to start and grow product-based businesses that are made in the UK. Another part of our mission is to highlight all the wonderful UK manufacturing that still takes place in Britain.

LT: What factors are contributing to the growth in UK textile manufacturing?

KH: More people want to make locally, more people understand the benefits of making locally, and more people than ever are starting their own businesses and want to use a local factory or are opening micro-factories to make the products themselves, particularly since lockdown. The other main reason is that since Brexit there are rising costs of making overseas, increased costs of shipping, and unreliability of supply chains with items being held up at borders.

Kate Hills, founder and CEO of Make it British, discusses the nuts and bolts of manufacturing in the UK and why the demand for local industry is growing.

LT: Is the infrastructure there for continued growth?

KH: When I first set up Make it British 11 years ago I was amazed by the fact that the manufacturers within the industry didn’t all know each other. The whole supply chain had become fragmented, but it’s starting to come together now. We’re seeing a lot of new, small manufacturing facilities opening up − particularly to help meet the demand of smaller businesses – and we saw the first UK cotton spinning plants open a few years ago after not having spun cotton here in decades.

There are still some areas that cause bottlenecks. Dye houses, for example, are very expensive to set up and there aren’t enough in the UK to meet the demand. There are still a lot of trims that aren’t made in the UK too, although we’ve got a couple of button manufacturers − Courtney & Co. opened a few years ago to make natural buttons and is doing amazingly well.

LT: What are the main benefits of manufacturing a fashion brand in the UK?

KH: You’ll have a much lower carbon footprint if you’re making locally, which is why many people are now interested. Face-to-face visits with your manufacturer and conversations in the same language as those who are making your products also enable better communication, so ironing out any kinks in your supply chain is much easier and the whole process is more transparent.

In addition, the provenance of having that Made in the UK label on a fashion brand adds great value when it comes to overseas customers. I’m also seeing more specific and hyper-local labelling, such as Made in London, Made in England or Made in Wales.

LT: What typically prevents a fashion brand from making in the UK?

KH: Sometimes there is a perception that making in the UK is more expensive. Fashion brands will compare the cost price for making in the UK versus somewhere overseas, but you’re not just comparing eggs to eggs. Making in the UK offers so much more flexibility, your lead times are shorter, and it can be much more profitable because you don’t have to buy huge amounts of stock. Another hurdle can be raw materials or certain types of manufacturers not being available here. Some products are more difficult to make in the UK too; anything that’s extremely detailed or highly labour-intensive isn’t viable for instance. Finally, it is so important to develop a partnership with your UK manufacturer and make the most of having that communication and the opportunity to visit in person. If you prefer doing everything by email, then you might as well make somewhere overseas.

LT: What pitfalls could a brand encounter without the right guidance?

KH: For a start, trying to find manufacturers on Google and ending up with someone that might give the impression they’re a UK manufacturer because they have a UK-based office, but they’re not actually going to make your production in the UK, they’re going to make it overseas. When it comes to fashion specifically, a common pitfall is not understanding the difference between how overseas and UK manufacturers work in terms of full service versus CMT basis. Most UK manufacturers work on a CMT basis − cut, make and trim – so you need to supply all the raw materials and trims and the manufacturer will do the

assembly part. The majority of overseas manufacturers offer a full service. I am seeing a few more UK manufacturers offering a full service, but of course, they price accordingly. Having that control over sourcing your own materials is much better anyway, at least you will know the costs and have total control.

Another trap is not giving manufacturers enough guidance. You need to run your own quality control and make sure you’re involved every step of the way during the production process. Cutting corners on the product development side − not getting a final production sample or failing to sign everything off properly – can result in the production not being what you expected.

Another common mistake is buying too much stock, so rather than finding a manufacturer that can make a small minimum order, the brand goes to one that insists they buy a larger quantity than they need or can sell. All your money is then tied up in stock and you can’t sell it quick enough. Finally, there’s the issue of developing a product for yourself but not knowing who your end customer is or how you’re going to market and sell your products. Some of the best brands launched recently are those that have already built up an audience, so when they go to market they know who they’re selling to, or tap into someone else’s existing audience by working with influencers and brand ambassadors.

LT: What is your British Brand Accelerator programme and who is it for?

KH: It’s a group coaching programme where we work with British brand founders – start-ups and existing businesses that want to re-shore their production − to launch and grow their product-based companies. We can help them with the whole product development process, from finding manufacturers to setting up a marketing plan and selling the products. Because it’s a group programme, businesses also learn from each other. We have people developing everything from babywear, kidswear and womenswear to dog products and homeware. No matter what type of product it is, they all have the same issues and challenges.

LT: What other resources does Make It British provide?

KH: We offer a lot of free information and downloadable guides for businesses that want to launch a brand in the UK or understand more about working with UK manufacturers. For those launching fashion brands, we have tech pack templates, cost price calculators and other similar resources. There’s also the Make it British podcast, which now has over 240 episodes, and a YouTube show at 1pm every Tuesday, both of which offer tips and advice for making in the UK and interviews with inspiring brands that already do make in the UK. We used to run a trade show, Make it British Live, but that sadly closed due to Covid. Our website includes a directory of Make it British members that are manufacturers, including clothing manufacturers and fabric and trim suppliers. Members also get to advertise on our website, which attracts over 100,000 visitors every month, many of whom are looking to buy UK-made products. One thing we’ve found with small businesses that make in the UK is that they’re great at developing products, but they’re not so good at marketing themselves, so we provide guest expert master classes every week on relevant topics for small businesses like marketing, social media logistics and PR. You can find all this information and more by visiting makeitbritish.co.uk.

Are you a family business, independent retailer, online business, wholesaler, business service or small manufacturer? If so, you don’t want to miss the 10th anniversary Small Business Saturday UK tour and its packed schedule of content and support.

In the current economic climate, there has never been a better time to make the most of the support, networking and promotional opportunities provided by Small Business Saturday UK – the campaign known for shining a spotlight on small firms. Small Business Saturday itself takes place on the first Saturday in December each year, but the campaign’s impact lasts all year round. As well as celebrating small business success and encouraging consumers to shop local and support businesses in their communities, the grassroots, non-commercial initiative includes an annual UK tour.

THE TOUR 2022

This autumn will see Small Business Saturday UK embark on a special anniversary tour across the UK to mark a decade of the campaign. Supported by BT, The Tour’s fleet of electric and zero-emissions vehicles will visit 23 towns and cities, kicking off in Glasgow on 31 October. It will then move on to visit small firms in locations such as Fife, York, Cardiff and Padstow throughout November, before finishing in London ready for the run-up to Small Business Saturday on 3 December.

“Small Business Saturday has always been about supporting and celebrating the UK’s fantastic entrepreneurs, and never has this been more important as they face a barrage of challenges this winter,” says Michelle Ovens CBE, director of Small Business Saturday UK. “We can’t wait to get back on the road with The Tour to spotlight these brilliant and unique small businesses, whilst also offering them vital support both in-person and online.”

highlights include free workshops on useful topics ranging from boosting sales and digital marketing to time and money management, and the small business Happy Hour live series, which will bring a daily dose of positivity as well as the chance to win prizes from small businesses in the local areas the campaign is visiting.“Once again, small businesses are facing another challenging year and are having to think strategically to succeed,” says Chris Sims, BT’s managing director for its SoHo (Single/Small office, Home office) unit. “Earlier this year BT launched a new customer Charter with a commitment to step up free digital skills training for small businesses. Working with partners such as Small Business Saturday on initiatives like The Tour is an important route to deliver this. It’s a brilliant way for small businesses across the country to gain support in digital skills and grow their capability for the future. We’re delighted to be supporting The Tour again this year.”

The Tour will feature a daily schedule of activities including visits to inspiring small businesses and live interviews with business owners and local leaders streamed via Instagram (@smallbizsatuk). There will also be free one-to-one mentoring sessions, with business experts on hand to offer individual help and advice. Virtual mentoring sessions can also be booked via The Tour 2022 tab at smallbusinesssaturdayuk.com. Other SMALL 10THSATURDAYBUSINESSUK–THEANNIVERSARY

“Small Business Saturday has always been about supporting and celebrating the UK’s fantastic entrepreneurs, and never has this been more important as they face a barrage of challenges this winter.”

THE TOUR DATES

Monday 31 October Glasgow

Tuesday 1 November Fife

Wednesday 2 November Edinburgh

Thursday 3 November Belfast

Friday 4 November Wirral

Monday 7 November Manchester

Tuesday 8 November Helmsley

Wednesday 9 November York

Thursday 10 November Grimsby

Friday 11 November Derby

Monday 15 November Cambridge

Tuesday 16 November Birmingham

Wednesday 17 November Hereford

Thursday 18 November Merthyr Tydfil

Friday 19 November Cardiff

Monday 22 November Padstow

Tuesday 23 November Exeter

Wednesday 24 November Southampton

Thursday 25 November Brighton

Friday 26 November Leighton Buzzard

Monday 29 November Walthamstow

Tuesday 30 November Aldgate

Wednesday 1 December Brixton

SMALLBIZ100

Alongside The Tour, Small Business Saturday UK will be highlighting 100 inspiring small businesses − one a day for 100 days – in the lead-up to Small Business Saturday on 3 December 2022. For the last nine years, the 100 have not only received exposure on Small Business Saturday’s social media channels and in the local and national press, but also joined the Small Business Saturday team in London at receptions in both Downing Street and The Treasury Drum with the Chancellor of the Exchequer. CWB speaks to two SmallBiz100 alumni to learn more.

CHARLOTTE KHAN, FOUNDER, MOO LIKE A MONKEY

Part of 2020’s SmallBiz100, Charlotte Khan is founder of Moo Like a Monkey, a family-run, design-led, eco-conscious children’s Shop. Via an online store and bricks and mortar shop in Folkestone, Moo Like a Monkey offers a range of eco-conscious children’s clothes, books and toys.

Commenting on the benefits of being part of SmallBiz100, Khan says, “Initially the recognition and validation encouraged a change in my mindset as a business owner. It was a real boost; I felt I was doing something right and my hard work was paying off. I started operating the business with renewed confidence.

“The social media attention was also great, we were able to reach a larger audience, but I think the publicity opportunities have made the biggest difference to the business. Each appearance in national press and TV, however small, had the effect of increasing our reach and showcasing our brand values. All the publicity opportunities are directly organised by the SmallBiz100 team.”

This year Khan will be following and enjoying The Tour via Instagram alongside plenty of social media support.

Celebrated by the 2021 SmallBiz100 campaign, Priya Velusami’s sustainable brand serves those who love colour, style and sustainability, offering a collection of colourful, upcycled kidswear and accessories made from pre-loved vintage saris.

“Pri Pri is based on early memories of sewing with my sari-clad grandmother who instilled zero waste values in me,” says Velusami. “Whilst I initially made all the products myself, I have now partnered with a charity in India to help make up my designs − an organisation that helps to upskill and empower underprivileged women with training in tailoring. I love being able to revive beautiful, colourful textiles while also helping people and the planet.“Being chosen as one of 100 small businesses from across the UK to mark the official countdown to Small Business Saturday 2021 was a real honour and confidence boost for myself and the business. It also enabled me to connect with several other business founders who were part of the SmallBiz100 along with previous alumni, giving me access to a huge network. I celebrated my SmallBiz100 day by compiling a ‘Guide to Local and Sustainable Gifting’ businesses, thereby connecting with many local and like-minded businesses. I was also featured in local press and radio.”

Velusami will be promoting the 2022 campaign and this year’s SmallBiz100 in the run-up to Small Business Saturday. She will also be celebrating with a promotion on the day to encourage customers to shop independent. Last year, Velusami donated 10 per cent of sales to the women’s charity in India that she partners with and hopes to do something similar this year.

PRIYA VELUSAMI, FOUNDER, PRI PRI

CHILDRENSWEARBASE

In June, luxury childrenswear retailer Base opened a new flagship store in Kent’s Bluewater shopping centre. CWB learns more about the independent chain, which stocks around 100 of the most recognised names in designer children’s fashion.

Childrenswear retailer Base has a rich and long history with origins in a tailoring shop, Granditer’s Menswear, which opened in Canning Town, East London in 1910. Founded by Morris Granditer, the great grandfather of current managing director Marc Granditer, the business’s vision has since evolved into what is now Base

Today,Childrenswear.Basehas a total of five stores in the UK. Being a London-based business, the majority of the stores are in key shopping centres in the Southeast – Bluewater, Lakeside, Westfield London and Westfield Stratford City. Base’s Birmingham store is the exception, with the retail location of Birmingham Grand Central serving the company’s large Midlands customer base. Beyond the bricks and mortar stores, Base also has a strong online business, with the launch of a new website now enabling it to offer its customer-focused luxury experience across the world.

Base’s most recent development is the brand-new flagship in Bluewater shopping centre, where it relocated to a unit opposite the existing one. To celebrate the opening, the retailer hosted an exclusive launch event, with those in attendance including top celebrities and influencers.

An innovative, cutting-edge concept, the new unit covers over 7,000 sq. ft and offers designer clothing for boys and girls aged 0 to 16 years. Featuring both luxury and up-and-coming brands, the store has designated departments to enable customers to browse the curated collections with ease. Having added 30 extra brands, Base’s flagship also offers a much wider and more diverse selection of products than ever before.

As well as expanding its range of international luxury labels − including the additions of Fendi, Palm Angels, Off White and Tartine et Chocolat − the flagship sees the introduction of a range of luxury lifestyle products, a new dedicated footwear area, and a baby area that includes designer pushchairs and prams.

Alongside the flagship store opening, the retailer launched its Face of Base competition, which gave 12 customers the chance to model for the business and become brand ambassadors for a whole year. Winners are given the opportunity to star in seasonal

campaigns wearing some of the world’s top luxury brands, which Base then uses for exclusive content both in-store and online.

So, how does Base Childrenswear continue to thrive and defy the difficult retail and economic climate? The retailer attributes its success to constantly improving its offering − both to new and existing customers − with curated product collections and a focus on the services it provides across all touchpoints, from the updated website to the new flagship store in Bluewater Shopping Centre. Essentially, Base doesn’t sit still, it is constantly evolving in the way it works and is always looking to the future to keep ahead of the market trends and its customers’ needs.

NEW MEDIA OPENS NEWFOROPPORTUNITIESBRANDS

The Insights Family – a global leader in kids, parents and family market intelligence – assesses how children are influenced through their interactions with the digital world.

Collaborations between brands are increasing in popularity and becoming more common across multiple industries. As kids continue to spend more time on their devices and interacting with the digital world, their preference toward their favourite IPs continues to grow and expand.

As a result, kids are looking to express themselves more than ever before. This can be seen through things such as the toys they play with and the clothes that they wear, as they present themselves in their own way. It forms part of their personality. They want to be part of the story across an ecosystem with many touch points, whether this is offline, online, or both.

The types of media where kids’ favourite brands and IPs originate from continue to shift. While properties emerging from TV, books and media remain ever-popular, IPs emerging from more interactive digital media such as video games, YouTube and TikTok, consistently grow in popularity.

This is reflected within our data, as kids are beginning to shift the way they express themselves to match what they are interested in in the digital world. Over the last six months, kids aged 6 to 12 have shown a +61 per cent and a +53 per cent increase in cosmetic and fashion purchases related to their favourite video game and YouTuber, respectively.

Furthermore, over a third of kids aged 6 to 9 in the UK report to owning branded goods both in real life and in a digital space. This demonstrates how newer IPs such as YouTubers, interactive media and influencers can engage kids and allow them to feel part of a wider community. This desire from kids to feel represented by a brand and their favourite IP is on the rise.

For example, kids aged 3 to 5 have shown a +62 per cent increase in clothing purchases related to their favourite YouTubers, and kids aged 6 to 12 also show a +20 per cent increase. On top of this, 19 per cent of kids aged 10 to 12 in the UK report purchasing clothing in relation to their favourite video game, with this increasing by +50 per cent over the last six months.Additionally,

the influence kids hold over their parents and their purchasing decisions is growing. Over the last six months, 86 per cent of parents with kids aged 1 to 13 in the UK say that their kids influence the clothes that they buy for them to wear, with this growing by +15 per cent over the same period.

Understanding what IPs kids connect themselves with, and how this can be brought together through brands, will better help to shape a brand’s connection with its intended audience and build loyalty.With this ever-expanding interest in various IPs, both established and new, as well as the increasing influence that kids hold over their parents, satisfying kids’ changing attitudes, tastes,

behaviours and consumption patterns is something that should be at the forefront of a brand’s mind. Every organisation needs their audience to feel that they resonate with the brand, what it stands for and what it represents. This becomes amplified even more when it comes to kids, as their preferences and attention constantly shift between various brands, IPs and touchpoints.

Tracking this in real-time and keeping on top of the latest trends that surround the kids and family ecosystem is essential to successfully reach and fully understand the modern audience.

The Insights Family is the global leader in kids, parents and family market intelligence, providing real-time data on their attitudes, behaviours and consumption patterns.

*All data from the last 6 months of Kids Insights data (April 2022September 2022)

The Insights Family is the global leader in kids, parents, and family market intelligence, providing real-time data on their attitudes, behaviours and consumption patterns.

Kids Insights surveys 7,780 children every week aged 3 to 18. Parents Insights surveys more than 3,800 parents of children between the ages of 1 and 16 every week. Both services operate in 22 countries across six continents and in total survey more than 469,040 kids and 228,800 parents a year. This means that the company interviews a new family member somewhere in the world every 45 seconds.

To download the latest report visit: get.theinsightsfamily.com/ familyreport2022

CONTENTS

26: NEWS

33: THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW

What’s in store for this year’s event

36: Q&A WITH BANNER’S CEO

Glenn Leech talks through Banner’s acquisition of William Turner, the company’s advancements in sustainability and this year’s Back to School

39: LESSONS IN PRE-LOVED SCHOOL

UNIFORM

Independent schoolwear retailers discuss the ins and outs of incorporating pre-loved school uniform into their offers

42: THE MAKING OF ONE+ALL

Neil Ward, MD of B Corp schoolwear supplier

One+All, introduces the company’s new brand and the role it will play in its long-term strategy

46: GOING FULL CIRCLE

CWB speaks to Kathryn Shuttleworth, MD of David Luke, to learn more about the company’s pioneering vision to make its school uniform 100 per cent recyclable

49: SPORTSWEAR WINNERS

Bringing you up to speed on the latest launches and developments in school sportswear

53: FINISHING TOUCHES

CWB’s pick of school accessories and footwear

56: SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION UPDATE

How the Schoolwear Association is helping to uphold industry standards and support families during the cost of living crunch

58: TALKING POINT

Marie Bradburn, schoolwear agent and deputy chair of the Schoolwear Association, reflects on 35 years in the industry

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

CHARLES KIRK, PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE

Following a successful rebranding campaign, Charles Kirk has firmly cemented its stance as one of the leading school uniform suppliers and manufacturers and looks forward to building on this for years to come.

Charles Kirk continues to offer its customers a flexible supply chain − one of the few remaining schoolwear suppliers to provide both UK and offshore manufacturing − allowing it to supply the schoolwear market effectively and efficiently with high-quality school uniforms, in the fastest possible lead times.New for 2022/23 is the Charles Kirk Tailored range, a selection of blazers and trousers available from stock and as bespoke made to order garments. Made from high-grade recycled polyester and with stain protection

technology, the Charles Kirk Tailored range maintains the high-quality standards the brand is known for, supplying products designed to meet the demands of day-to-day school life, whilst keeping up with the current trends in fit and design. Charles Kirk has also increased its offering to include the Charles Kirk Activewear range, which includes bespoke hoodies, sports tops, polos and skorts to match schools’ team colours.One of the first manufacturers to use recycled yarn in schoolwear, Charles Kirk continues to ‘do its bit’ for the environment. Having installed solar panels over 10 years ago and switched its fleet vehicles to electric in the last year, Charles Kirk is committed to progressively implementing more ‘green energy’ into its daily operations. This year, Charles Kirk

has introduced the use of polybags and boxes made from recycled materials, and along with these changes, it still offers garments manufactured here in the UK, which greatly decreases its carbon footprint.

Looking ahead, Charles Kirk will be incorporating an online ordering platform, allowing customers to place new orders and view existing orders and stocks, as well as various accounting facilities.

THEMAGICTOUCH EXPANDS

UK BASE

TheMagicTouch has acquired additional warehouse and office space adjoining its current premises in Dunstable, Bedfordshire. Commenting on the development is MD, Jim Nicol. “The additional building and space will enable us to further expand our training and marketing facilities, which continue to be popular with both existing and prospective customers. This has been highlighted by the increase in customers attending detailed training for White-Toner Printers, Print & Cut, and more recently, Direct to Film (DTF) transfer printing before having their equipment installed and commissioned. Our other marketing support programmes for CRM and target sampling also continue to be well received.”

Celebrating 30 years of trading this year, the company continues to develop and market the latest in image transfer technology with its four brands: TheMagicTouch, MagiCut, DyeSubMagic and DTFMagic.

M&S EXPANDS BTS OFFER WITH THIRD-PARTY BRANDS

M&S has been building on its in-house Back to School offer with a wider selection of third-party brands. The expansion of kidswear ‘Brands at M&S’ saw shoe brand Clarks and school supplies brands Smiggle and Hype join more M&S stores across the UK this summer. This is alongside the introduction of Kickers and Jansport to M&S.com. The brands also offer in-store services, such as free measuring and fitting for footwear.

The third-party Back to School offering is part of the wider Brands at M&S strategy, which offers customers access to a group of brands together with the advantages of shopping with the M&S platform, including free next-day Click & Collect and the Sparks loyalty programme.

SCHOOLBLAZER AND LIMITLESS CHARITY WALK

A team from school uniform and sportswear supplier, Schoolblazer, and its sportswear brand, Limitless, recently completed a walking marathon in the Peak District in aid of The Mintridge Foundation, a charity dedicated to enhancing life skills in young people through the power of sport.

The team, which comprised Alex Wallace, founder of the Foundation, along with six members of Team Limitless, completed the 26.2-mile trek around the Howden, Derwent and Ladybower reservoirs in 10 hours 22 minutes, raising a total of £842 for the

Foundation.“TheMintridge Foundation aims to keep young people in sport, providing powerful sporting role models to inspire them and improve their physical and mental wellbeing,” says Louise Allard from Team Limitless. “This aligns perfectly with our goals at Limitless – to create comfortable kit that inspires young people to be confident and active.”

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

ECO-SCHOOLS’ TEACHER TRAINING PROGRAMME FUND

Sustainable children’s brand, Frugi, is supporting Eco-Schools for another year by funding its online Eco-Coordinator Training Programme. Once again, this means training will be free for teachers and school or nursery staff in England. The previous year saw Eco-Schools, managed by Keep Britain Tidy, present training to over 500 applicants funded by Frugi; many of whom have progressed to receive their Green Flag Award.

Frugi’s overall ambition is to help inspire a new generation of eco-heroes to change the world; the Eco-Schools programme is an ideal partner.“Young people are more aware of the reality of climate change than any previous generation,” says Adam Flint, education manager at Keep Britain Tidy and national manager for EcoSchools. “They are passionate – keen to approach it with a proactive and positive determination. At the same time, the DfE’s new Schools and Sustainability strategy is prompting schools to cover these topics in the classroom. Eco-Schools helps teachers meet these needs with a comprehensive programme that introduces their students to environmentalism with relevant, impactful and engaging content.”

UNIFORMERLY RECEIVES POINTS OF LIGHT AWARD

Simon Gossling, co-founder of the online school uniform recycling initiative Uniformerly, has received a Points of Light Award. Presented daily by the Prime Minister, the awards highlight outstanding individuals who are making a change in their community by creating positive social change for people or planet.

Gossling received the award in recognition of his hard work creating and launching Uniformerly, the UK’s nationwide, awardwinning school uniform recycling initiative to help parents cut the cost of buying school uniform and reduce clothing waste.“It’s an honour to receive this nomination and a huge boost for Uniformerly, which has been an enormous team effort,” says Gossling. “We will continue to work hard to make sure that as much school uniform as possible is recycled and reused, helping parents, schools and the environment.”

Established during lockdown in 2020, Uniformerly provides a website and free online marketplace where parents, schools and PTAs can buy, sell, give away and recycle outgrown uniforms direct to other parents at their school. The initiative also works alongside school uniform suppliers and local authorities to improve sustainability, social inclusion and child poverty prevention.

BTS ACCESSORIES MADE IN THE UK

Neonimo has the vision to reduce landfill through responsible end-to-end production, using sustainability-conscious materials and practices to make eco-friendly products.

Designed in London and made in the UK by expert craftspeople, the brand’s offer features a bright and bold range of Back to School items. These include easy-to-clean lunchboxes made from hygienic, non-porous, shatterproof plastic; BPA-free thermal bottles in high-grade stainless steel that keep hot drinks warm and cold drinks cool; the multi-use slipcase for pens, phones or glasses, which are made from durable and tactile neoprene with snap-shut tops, and a range of sketchbooks and notebooks.

NEW DOTTE SCHOOL UNIFORM SHOP

Family-to-family resale platform, Dotte, has introduced a school uniform shop. Continuing its mission to combat children’s clothing waste, Dotte launched the shop in July for parents to start listing outgrown school uniform items.

Customers can buy and sell any school uniform item, including school shoes, trousers, jumpers and shirts. With badged or logoed items generally being donated to the school in question, Dotte primarily focuses on generic items. In addition, Dotte’s partnerships with M&S and Clarks enable customers to earn rewards and discounts with both of these brands. For example, for every M&S or Clarks item a customer resells on Dotte – schoolwear included – they can make savings directly with these two brands.“We hope that listing outgrown school uniform on Dotte will soon become second nature,” says the platform’s co-founder, Samantha Valentine. “The more people shift habits, the less waste and the bigger impact we will have.”

NEW ECO ACCESSORIES BY BLADE & ROSE

British childrenswear brand Blade & Rose has launched matching eco waterproof rucksacks and eco lunchboxes made sustainably from recycled polyester derived from plastic bottles. Ideal for nursery and school, the new collection is a welcome addition to Blade & Rose’s clothing ranges and features three of the brand’s bestselling prints: Frankie Lion, Maura Mouse and Highland Cow.

Built to withstand year-round British weather, the eco rucksacks include adjustable padded shoulder straps, a main zipped compartment, a front zipped section, and a mesh side pocket for water bottles. The matching eco lunchboxes have a padded recycled polyester casing to help keep food cool and protect the contents as well as a padded carry handle and a nametag on the reverse.

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

GLOBAL CHANGECONCERNSCONSUMEROVERCLIMATE

INVESTING IN THE FUTURE OF FABRICS

Marton Mills fabrics are the industry standard for school uniform; used extensively by garment manufacturers across the UK and beyond. The company has continued to invest, recently purchasing a new state-of-the-art warping machine and six new looms, which have increased production efficiencies as well as improved fabric Commitmentquality.toreducing environmental

impact is an integral part of Marton Mills’ business strategy and operating methods. In 2018, it had 260 solar panels fitted to reduce its carbon footprint. The company is now in the process of investing in renewable energy and applying to commission a wind turbine, which will cover its manufacturing requirements for the future. Furthermore, Marton Mills is working in partnership with Huddersfield University and the Future Fashion Factory to innovate a fluorocarbon-free finish. In addition to this, it is trialling fabrics using recycled polyester to assess performance and durability.

Marton Mills’ Balmoral range of polyviscose fabrics is available in over 100 stocksupported designs, renowned for being hardwearing and resistant to stains. In addition to the designs in its pattern books, bespoke designs can also be manufactured to order. The company’s full custom process allows it to create any variation of style to match school colours. A full design service and samples are available upon request.

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION COMEDY NIGHT

Taking place after the first day of The Schoolwear Show on Sunday 9 October, this year’s Schoolwear Association evening event takes a comedy night theme and will include special guest and comedian, Aaron James.

Hosted at Hogarths Hotel in Solihull, the evening runs from 7.00pm until late and includes a three-course dinner alongside the entertainment. The dress code for this year’s event is smart casual.

According to new research from the 2022 Mintel Consulting Sustainability Barometer, consumer fears over climate change have escalated around the globe over the last year. Between 2021-22, the number of global consumers citing climate change as a top three environmental concern has risen from an average of 39 per cent to 46 per cent. In addition to climate change, there are also concerns over water shortages (up from 27 per cent in 2021 to 31 per cent in 2022) and food shortages (up from 17 per cent to 23 per cent).

Nearly half (46 per cent) of consumers globally cite climate change among their top three concerns. Air quality (36 per cent) and plastic pollution (33 per cent) complete the world’s top three environmental concerns.

While environmental priorities have shifted

in the last year, consumers’ sustainable

BANNER UKRAINIANSUPPORTSFAMILIES

Trowbridge-based schoolwear supplier, Banner, has welcomed two Ukrainian families to the UK. The families have been provided with accommodation, furniture and day-to-day essentials, all thanks to generous donations from Banner employees, the local community and a partnership with Trowbridge estate agents, WrightsTheResidential.initiativefrom

Banner comes as the war in Ukraine continues to displace families whose homes are no longer safe. Banner’s efforts began with a sizable donation of 3,000 new garments, which were sent to Ukraine and distributed amongst those in need through the UK-based charity Goods for Good. This soon turned into the rallying together of Banner colleagues –headed by community lead Debbie Gillespie – to collect furniture, clothing and general supplies for two Ukrainian families sponsored by the business. With the help of local estate agent Wrights Residential, accommodation was then located to provide each of the sponsored families with a home.

COST TO PARENTS OF LOST SCHOOL UNIFORM ITEMS

A recent survey by school uniform labelling company Stamptastic has revealed that on average, 75 per cent of primary school children lose 1 to 2 items of uniform per year and 21.5 per cent of those lose 3 to 5 items.

Based on there being 5 million children currently in primary education in the UK, this equates to 13 million lost items each school year. Both the cost of replacement together with the waste implications on the environment are far fromTheideal.survey

also uncovered that 17 per cent of parents asked have spent between £26-£50 replacing lost items; 4 per cent have spent £51 to £100, and 5 per cent of those questioned spent over £100. Across the 5 million children in primary education, parents could be spending anything from £42 to £65 million between them to replace all the lost items. The most frequently lost garments are cardigans, jumpers and fleeces, accounting for 64 per cent of lost school uniform.

SCHOOLWEARTHESHOW2022

Hosted at Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre in Solihull, the 2022 edition of The Schoolwear Show takes place on Sunday 9 October and Monday 10 October. Dedicated exclusively to independent schoolwear retailers, the two-day exhibition will provide a host of networking opportunities, the chance to discover the latest product innovations, and the means to meet existing suppliers face-to-face as well as source new ones.

New and returning exhibitors at this year’s show include Banner, Cash’s Apparel Solutions, Chadwick Textiles, Charles Kirk, David Luke, Denby Dale Clothing, Diamond Textiles, Douglas & Grahame/1880 Club, Eskimo Epos, Europa Sports, Falcon Sportswear, Gardiner Bros, Goods for Good, Gymphlex, Kwiktape Labels, Madeira, Magicfit (Gregory Pollard), Marton Mills, National Weaving, Net Digitizing, One+All, Petasil, Pex, Prestige, Sal’s Shoes, Small World Accessories, Stabilo, Surridge/SDL, The Magic Touch, The Schoolwear Association, Tie & Scarf Company, Top to Toe Epos, Trutex, William Lamb (POD), William Turner, Winterbottom’s and Zeco.

Once again, the Schoolwear Association will also have a stand at the show (P360) where representatives will be on hand to provide further information, including the benefits of membership. In the meantime, on page 56, you can learn more about how the Association is helping to uphold industry standards and support families during the cost of living crisis.

CWB takes a look at what’s in store for this year’s edition of The Schoolwear Show.

NEW FOR 2022 – CHARITY PARTNERS

As the biggest event in the schoolwear industry calendar, The Schoolwear Show is the ideal platform to connect industry-relevant charities with schoolwear suppliers and retailers. This year, in a first for the exhibition, the show will play host to two charity partners – Goods for Good and Sal’s Shoes.

GOODS FOR GOOD

Goods For Good was set up in 2014 with a clear mission − to alleviate poverty and reduce waste. The charity redistributes overstocked and unwanted goods, including school uniform and sportswear, to help improve lives whilst also reducing waste and the negative impact it has. To date, Goods for Good has supported over 3.5 million vulnerable people in 26 countries across the world, delivering over £35 million worth of aid.School uniforms and sportswear are desperately needed by many families in the UK and across the globe. Goods for Good brings a huge amount of dignity to those who are simply unable to afford to buy new. In the UK, the charity provides non-logoed school uniforms to those in desperate need, including children of asylum seekers, refugees and evacuees. The goods are surplus stock provided by schoolwear suppliers such as Price & Buckland, Taylor Made Uniforms Ltd, Uniform 4 Kids and Top of the Class School Uniform. Across the globe, it sends overstock new uniforms with logos to vulnerable communities in countries including Moldova and Africa.Tolearn more about Goods for Good and how you may be able to help the charity, visit Stand P415.

SAL’S SHOES

Children’s charity Sal’s Shoes and its UK School Shoes Fund help to buy children in need a new pair of school shoes. Sal’s Shoes collects and distributes new and pre-loved shoes to children around the world. To date, it has distributed over 3 million pairs of shoes in 57 countries worldwide, including the UK.

Due to rising poverty, it is estimated that 1.7 million children attend school in badly fitting, unclean and incorrect uniform. With nearly 2 million people applying for Universal Credit during lockdown, many items − including shoes once deemed every day and affordable − are increasingly becoming unaffordable for too many. The School Shoes Fund allows Sal’s Shoes to buy school children in need − here in the UK − a new pair of school shoes. The more money the charity raises, the more pairs it can purchase at a discounted rate through its contacts.

The charity is seeking donations of shoes; seconds, end-of-line stock and donations of any new school shoes, wellies or trainers. Alternatively, monetary donations can be made to the Fund to help buy new school shoes for children. The charity also welcomes industry contacts who would be open to offering a discounted rate for the charity to buy new school shoes with the money raised. To learn more, visit Stand P420 to meet the charity’s founder, CJ Bowry.

GLENNQ&A:LEECH,CEO,BANNER

Laura Turner speaks to Glenn Leech to discuss everything from Banner’s recent acquisition of William Turner and the company’s advancements in sustainability through to new products and this year’s Back to School.

LT: Are there any particular areas of William Turner’s business the acquisition will leverage?

GL: Having a UK manufacturing base for ties is a massive plus. It means shorter lead times for orders, better service, and a much-reduced carbon footprint.

The importance of sustainability to both Banner and William Turner can’t be underestimated, and this is definitely an area in which we will be working very closely together, sharing and implementing best practices.

I am a huge believer that you are only as good as your people. We now employ more colleagues in the North West than we do in our wholesale HQ in Trowbridge, and this presents a great opportunity to develop talented colleagues across our businesses.

LT: Will there be any changes to trading arrangements for customers?

GL: No, we have no plans to change any trading arrangements and have communicated this clearly to all customers.

LT: What is Banner’s long-term strategy for its brand portfolio?

Laura Turner: How does the acquisition of William Turner support Banner’s strategy?

Glenn Leech: William Turner is a business we have long admired. It has a lot of talented people who provide outstanding service. In joining forces, we bring together two market-leading businesses with complementary product ranges. So commercially, we have a wider product range to sell into schoolwear retailers across the UK. More broadly, the acquisition will give William Turner access to the investment and central support that Banner can provide. Importantly, we want to do this in a way that allows William Turner to thrive as a brand and business in its own right. We love the brand and heritage and really believe there is an opportunity to grow and prosper under Dan, John and Andy’s leadership.

LT: Are there plans to develop William Turner’s range?

GL: The change in ownership won’t immediately result in any changes in product range. What it will do is provide the financial backing and support to make any necessary investments that can improve either service or products.

GL: First and foremost, Banner is a wholesaler, and we have no plans to trade directly with schools. This is a strategic decision that I made when I joined Banner and it remains 100 per cent the right call. We believe in supporting our retail customers who know their schools and parents best. This is why we have made huge investments in our Media Hub to give our customers everything they need for pitches to win or retain their schools. It is also why we refer the growing number of schools that contact us directly to their local retailer – again, something that isn’t going to change.

As previously mentioned, William Turner sits nicely alongside the Banner brand, offering complementary products. It’s a wonderful business and our role in owning it is primarily to support Dan and his team to continue to deliver great products and industry-leading service.

Monkhouse will continue to operate standalone from the Banner business, run by Peter and his leadership team. Owning Monkhouse has been incredibly insightful; it has really helped us understand the challenges of managing a schoolwear retailer and we have learned so much in a short space of time. The team’s focus is to deliver brilliant service and it’s immensely satisfying to see how well they have done this Back to School.

LT: How was this Back to School compared to previous years?

GL: I am not sure there has been a typical Back to School since I joined Banner! Whilst the West has learned to cope with Covid, China’s zero Covid policy has impacted factory production and shipping across the Far East. Eye-watering freight costs have yet to return to more sensible levels and sterling has devalued by a hefty amount. The backdrop for suppliers is very challenging at a time when retailers rightly expect their suppliers to have put in plans to mitigate the continued supply chain disruption. Not easy for everyone, but I am confident we will come through it and that the industry will deliver a good Back to School despite the challenges.

Certainly, at Banner, we have pulled out all the stops, including air freighting (at our cost) over 50,000 special blazers, which enabled us to deliver 98 per cent of all our special blazers to customers by the end of July. I would add that we are offsetting the additional carbon emissions from the airfreight.

In our retail channel, we have seen parents choosing to shop later than last year and a slight reduction in demand for in-store appointments, probably driven by the changing nature of the pandemic and a return to a traditional timing of purchasing.

LT: Will Banner be launching any new products at this year’s Schoolwear Show?

GL: Customers will need to come to our stand to find out! Seriously, we will be showcasing a significant number of new Eco products as we make further steps toward our goal of 100 per cent of our products being made from sustainable materials. We may have one or two other additional products to showcase but these need to pass final approval, so we will need to keep our powder dry for now.

LT: Where is the company currently on its sustainability journey?

GL: We’re proud of the progress we’ve made and excited about what’s to come. But like every business that’s truly committed to a sustainable future, we also know there’s a long way to go.

I’m delighted that we are carbon neutral for our UK operations, together with the wider progress across our six strategic sustainability pillars, and the way we’ve maintained our commitments in the midst of a global pandemic. But more than

that, I’m humbled by the engagement of my colleagues and their enthusiasm for embracing sustainability as the only way forward. In working together we’ve all learned so much, irreversibly changing our outlook and workplace for the better. One of our biggest achievements is that more than 50 per cent of our products are now manufactured from sustainable fabrics, a huge milestone toward our goal of only offering sustainable garments.

Looking forward, backed by our investors, we’ve put sustainability at the heart of our strategy. That’s why we’re working to further reduce carbon emissions and measuring our full scope 3 carbon footprint; why we’re committed to giving back to nature and communities and working closely with our supply chain to reduce the environmental impacts of their operations, and openly and transparently reporting on our progress annually.

Sustainability is not just about “doing the right thing.” For us it’s about responsibly serving the needs of all stakeholders and the children who wear our garments, both now and in the future.

LT: What’s next for Banner?

GL: Banner will continue to champion sustainability and service. We want our customers to choose us because we have the best and most sustainable range, backed up by the biggest stock holding and strongest service in our market.

So, the very next thing for us is to review our performance through this Back to School. We will be inviting customers to provide feedback on our performance through a third-party business called Market Measures. This insight will be invaluable in helping us work out where and how we need to improve.

“Banner will continue to champion sustainability and service. We want our customers to choose us because we have the best and most sustainable range, backed up by the biggest stock holding and strongest service in our market.”

LESSONS IN PRE-LOVEDUNIFORMSCHOOL

CWB speaks to independent schoolwear retailers about the ins and outs of incorporating pre-loved school uniform into their offers.

We have been offering pre-loved school uniform to our local community for the last four years. Plain items are donated to charities, but any item with a logo is offered to our community via our online store and our shop in Walton Hall Farm. Prices start from £1 per item to cover our costs for collection, washing, repairing and preparing the garment for re-sale.

Our pre-loved schoolwear is sourced through the schools in our network by collecting their lost property from them and also via donations from parents. We then categorise these items in terms of wear and tear and carry out any minor repairs needed to actively ‘recycle’ the garment back into circulation for parents to purchase.

We display the pre-loved range as a clearance rail in-store and it is also offered under the pre-loved banner on our website. We make the purchase of these items as discreet as possible, treating it as any other sale so customers do not feel any shame in selecting pre-loved items. We also package and send out pre-loved garments in exactly the same way we would a new item.

Customer feedback is that they absolutely love our pre-loved offer; we even have some parents pre-registering for items in case they come in. As one of the first companies to introduce the concept of recycling school uniform in Thurrock, we have seen several pre-loved businesses pop up since. Undoubtedly the demand for pre-loved uniform has grown due to the ever-increasing cost of living, but also because people are becoming more aware of these simple changes we could all make to our purchasing habits to create a more sustainable way of living.Weplan to continue growing our pre-loved business by accepting lost property from the growing network of schools that we work with. As we expand our business, we hope to eventually be in a position to offer pre-loved uniform cost-free through our UniCycle Project.

NIKI KHERA OWNER, UNIFORMS BY NIKI

We were already thinking about introducing our Pre-Loved Scheme before the Education (Guidance about the Cost of School Uniform) Bill came in. We are always looking for ways to adapt and grow the business and, inspired by the buzz around second-hand in other retail sectors, we thought ‘why not do it for school uniform?’

In April 2021 we began taking customers’ good quality, used school uniform in return for credit to use on future purchases with us. We thought that, by doing so, we could reward everyone who participates in our Pre-Loved Scheme. We only really take logoed items, or we’d be inundated. We also didn’t want to compete with PTAs and their second-hand uniform sales, so we focus on secondary school uniform, which PTAs don’t tend to cover as much.

On receiving the pre-loved items we refresh them, package them and list them on our website, with prices starting from 50p. We don’t have space to hold the pre-loved stock in-store, so it’s available exclusively via the website, with each school having its own Pre-Loved page.

Pre-loved is a lot of work - more than we anticipated – due to the sheer bulk of items, the processing, and the storage. However, the feedback we have received from parents and schools has been overwhelmingly positive. Pre-loved offers families affordable alternatives if they can’t afford a new logoed uniform or want to purchase extras, and it also encourages recycling. It hasn’t affected our sales either, customers still like to buy new where they can, and many buy pre-loved as spares.

I think pre-loved school uniform will be even more popular this year, partly due to the rise in the cost of living, but also because of changes to consumers’ lifestyles and attitudes around sustainability. Second-hand used to have a bit of a stigma, but nowadays it is widely available and accepted.

MOLLY BURTON DIRECTOR, SMITHS SCHOOLWEAR

We launched our pre-loved school uniform rail in January 2020. It was something I’d been considering for a few months beforehand, I just needed to work out how the scheme would run and how the financial side of things would work. I was aware local charity shops didn’t accept badged uniform, and customers had fed back they had nowhere to donate their unwanted school uniform and felt, despite it being used, it was still in such good condition that they didn’t want to throw it away. We also listened to customers who felt that uniform is initially expensive to purchase. So, demand was there, hence our scheme was born.

We provide pre-loved uniform via a dedicated rail in-store. The stock comes from customer donations as well as donations from schools when their lost property becomes full. We accept any badged uniform for any of the schools we sell. For generic items, we direct people to a local charity called Newstarts, which gladly accepts them. We decided to offer pre-loved items for sale; everything was £3 per item apart from blazers, which were £5, with all funds raised going directly to Primrose Hospice in Bromsgrove. Unfortunately, I was criticised on social media for setting these prices, so we now state these figures are suggested donation amounts only. If anyone is struggling, they can just pay whatever they can afford. We have a collection tin on our counter for the hospice and all donations go straight into the tin. We recently had our third tin collected, and since January 2020, we have raised a total of £1000.37. We are so proud of this achievement, to raise over £1k is phenomenal.

While many schools now offer second-hand uniform, they are closed during the school holidays when demand is highest. We have essentially centralised pre-loved uniform in Bromsgrove and can offer advice on sizing and gender- and year-specific items. Lots of families have purchased additional pre-loved PE kits from us over the last couple of years due to many schools

now asking pupils to attend school wearing them on the days they have PE. We’ve also seen an increase in the number of refugees attending schools locally and, whilst many schools offer help with the cost of uniform, pre-loved can act as a backup and provide families with a very cost-effective second set of uniform. I expect to see further demand this year as families face the cost of living

Becausecrisis.we only have room for a rail, and some pre-loved items can be slow-moving stock − particularly first school donations where PTAs regularly hold uniform sales − I’m considering linking up with an overseas charity that can make use of these unwanted items. Any recommendations are welcome − it would be amazing to see the uniforms of Bromsgrove travel far and wide in the world.

There are no two ways about it, pre-loved uniform does cost us sales. However, feedback from customers and schools has been overwhelmingly positive. It saves families money and reduces the amount of clothes going into landfill. It also further strengthens our business; raising our profile within the community and bringing new customers into the shop with whom we can create longstanding relationships. I also feel pre-loved uniform demonstrates the excellent value for money it represents initially. As a local family business, we support local families. Our pre-loved rail demonstrates how we listen to our customers and always go that extra mile. It is lovely to be able to give something back to the community that has supported us over the years.”

HELEN GREAVES COMPANY DIRECTOR, S&H SCHOOLWEAR AND SPORTS

THE MAKING OF ONE+ALL

CWB’s Laura Turner speaks to Neil Ward, MD of B Corp schoolwear supplier One+All, to learn more about the company’s new brand and the role it will play in its long-term strategy.

product to the core range,” continues Ward. “Beyond schoolwear, the demand gets so much wider – for instance, for workwear, clubs, societies and outdoor pursuits. Although we introduced coats under One+All, because it’s a product more widely demanded and will continue to be in the future, we’re rebranding them to The Making Of. All our other existing well-established products will remain One+All, as they are core schoolwear items.

“As we launch new products in the future, if they’re schoolwear-specific and exclusive to authorised stockists of school uniform, they’ll be under the One+All brand. If it’s a product we think could be more widely available and complementary to our schoolwear customers but not exclusive to them, it will be under The Making Of brand.”

With a number of current One+All customers providing dual garment offerings, for example schoolwear and workwear, introducing The Making Of allows the company to fulfil both requirements, providing existing customers with more options for products they already stock. For schoolwear-only customers, The Making Of brand presents a whole new market to potentially

One+All is well known in schoolwear for being responsible, for being a B Corporation, and for producing well-made, good quality garments. In the coming years, the company wants to be known for more, and it plans to achieve this with the introduction of complementary products under a newly launched brand called The Making Of.

A platform for new items, The Making Of offers sustainable clothing and accessories designed to supplement existing customers’ offers without being schoolwear-specific. Providing the same quality as One+All as well as being suitable for embroidery and printing, The Making Of range will be available for both adults and children, catering to sectors such as workwear, clubwear and societies.

“We will have a dual department and dual branded business: One+All for schoolwear and The Making Of for additional garments and accessories,” says company MD, Neil Ward. “Something we want to make very clear to our existing customers is that our One+All range remains 100 per cent protected for authorised stockists of school uniform. The One+All brand is synonymous with schoolwear and rightly so; we wouldn’t want it to be accessible to unauthorised stockists. It’s the right thing to do to make sure One+All is always protected, which is why we would introduce non-schoolwear-specific products under a new brand for the wider industry.”

The first garments branded with The Making Of are coats and fleeces, which One+All trialled this Back to School to a positive reception. With coats not being exclusive to school uniform, they’re an ideal starting point for the new brand.

“In schoolwear, coats are used almost as a complementary

pursue.“The Making Of is a small but important new step that utilises our existing expertise and manufacturing capabilities to provide existing customers with the option to do more, with more products,” adds Ward. “Strategically, we will take it steadily, with the aspiration that in 10 years’ time we will have a strong foothold in what is a huge market.

“We’ll start with the coats, learn, improve, and assess the demand more widely. We’ll then add in sensible amounts of products in the future − hopefully, ones that our existing customers will find interesting or that they already buy elsewhere − coupled with the service, delivery and price our customers know us for. The Making Of will be a quality brand, priced competitively and made as ethically and sustainably as possible.”

Good branding always tells a story, and in The Making Of’s case, an arrow represents progression while a circle symbolises the planet. The colour palette also takes four of the six colours from One+All to link the two brands under the same family. The overall effect is fresh and refined, reflecting a more diverse audience and market. The branding’s circle also lends itself to the B Corp logo, which is the underpinning of the company.

Unlike limited companies, which focus on maximising shareholder value and making as much profit as possible, B Corporations are obliged to balance the elements of looking after people, doing good for the planet, and generating prosperity for all − including the business, so that it is strong for the future.

“All our initiatives are for the planet or people,” comments Ward. “When it comes to the planet, we look to reduce our carbon

footprint and use better raw materials - for us the yarns and chemicals are key − prolong the life of products, re-use the products if possible and make sure they then enter the circular economy or have another use at end of life. To help address this, we have recycling units that we provide to our customers. The first five are free and then after that, we just charge to cover costs. The scheme has really taken off and is getting bigger all the time. Then we have our initiatives for people; people in our supply chain, people in the business − and being employee-owned means we can really look after the people in the business – our customers and the community.”Someof the company’s recent developments in these areas include accreditation by Better Cotton™, with the plan to move all cotton garments to accredited cotton. Better Cotton is a global cotton sustainability programme that aims to help cotton communities to survive and thrive while protecting and restoring the environment in which the cotton is grown, which is a great fit for theAnothercompany.key investment area is product packaging, which has switched from plastic to sugarcane. The beauty of sugarcane is that not only does it grow fast and replenish quickly, but it also captures carbon. Essentially, the process of its growth takes carbon out of the atmosphere as opposed to plastic’s production, which puts it in. Currently, all of the company’s UK plastic packaging has moved to sugarcane, together with the majority of the Bangladesh production. As sugarcane can’t be secured in some of the company’s other manufacturing countries − Egypt, the Philippines and China − an alternative solution will be sourced for those.

Ongoing initiatives include reviewing workers’ salaries in Egypt, which is done every year to ensure all pay is in line with the company’s Living Wage rather than the much lower local wage. Elsewhere, the company’s continued support of its Bangladesh supplier recently saw the introduction of a library to the business. While literacy is very high in Bangladesh, access to books is limited. The new library, to which One+All donated a large number of books primarily focused on children’s learning, provides everyone at the factory with free access to books for themselves and their families.From a business perspective, Ward sees the next 12 months as a period to concentrate on existing but fast-growing new products, including One+All’s tie offer, which has met with unprecedented demand since it was introduced last year.

“We want to make sure our customers are happy with everything we’re doing,” concludes Ward. “We need to make sure they understand the new brand and get their feedback; the critical part is that by talking to them about the new brand now, we can use that opportunity to develop and introduce what they need, whether that be across schoolwear, workwear or something else.

“The Making Of creates a whole new conversation for us. Previously the question to customers has always been: If we could do something new in schoolwear, what would it be? Now the question is: If we could do anything in schoolwear or another market you’re involved with, what would it be? If what comes back from customers is that there’s something else in schoolwear we should do, then that is what we will do, but The Making Of now gives us the option to provide so much more.”

forUniformtheNONUNIFORM

We’re One+All. We make really good schoolwear.

We want every child to have the chance to feel good as they fulfil their potential. A great uniform is a good place to start.

Our schoolwear range has grown in recent years. We now supply blazers, coats, fleeces, hoodies, knitwear, jackets, polos, sweats and ties.

And If your schools needs a personalised uniform, we can help.

We offer 18 striped designs of One+All Performa 50 and One+All Courtelle knitwear from stock for next day delivery.

We also offer bespoke colour combinations of striped ties, and full-length wider ties.

Plus trimmed blazers and jackets, made-to-order special knitwear with bespoke colours and stripes, and made-to-order colours for sweats, hoodies and polos.

And we can embroider in three working days, too.

When it comes to offering something really bespoke to your schools, we’re got it covered.

Because we’re all about uniform for the non-uniform.

GOINGCIRCLEFULL

CWB learns more about David Luke’s pioneering vision to make its school uniform 100 per cent recyclable.

Over a decade ago in an industry first, David Luke introduced school blazers manufactured using recycled polyester from post-consumer plastic bottles, placing the brand at the forefront of the sector. Now, in another ground-breaking move following a new partnership with the Circular Textiles Foundation (CTF), blazers will return as the focal point of David Luke’s sustainability practices along with a complete mindset shift in terms of how it closes the loop.In short, the company wants to make its school uniform completely circular so that the garments are 100 per cent recyclable and never need to go to landfill or incineration. The strategy for the next 10 years, therefore, is to design for circularity through fibre-to-fibre recycling technologies. David Luke’s Eco Blazer and Jackets are being designed with this specific goal in mind, carrying the CTF certification mark from January 2023 with the goal of encompassing the entire Eco-uniform range in the future. Having this CTF mark guarantees that the garment has been designed to be recycled by a specific facility, which processes it into new fabric at end of use. The fabric can then be utilised to make new clothing, eliminating waste, reducing the need for virgin materials and lowering CO2 emissions.

“We have been quite obsessed with responsible production and consumption of clothing and exploring the next solution for end-of-life school uniform,” says Kathryn Shuttleworth, MD of David Luke. “Our Re:Uniform campaign is still so much of what we are about – putting more into the construction of products so that they can be handed down and live a long life. But when the inevitable happens and garments cannot be rescued, it is greatly disappointing to discover there are very few well-developed solutions out there.

“We have worked with garment recyclers where there has been a historical approach to down-cycling and converting waste fabrics into blankets, flooring or rags, but this still doesn’t feel like a useful way to introduce circularity. And so, through our links with the garment recyclers connecting us to work with Reskinned, we were then signposted to the CTF.”

CTF is a ground-breaking initiative that provides an independent circularity standard for genuine accountability, transparency, and peace of mind. In making circularity accessible to all, the Foundation turns the concept into a reality. CTF’s founders come from a garment design and manufacturing background and, aware of the environmental impacts of bulk manufacturing, they looked at how to improve the way things were done. Quickly recognising that switching to recycled materials was simply not enough if that garment could not be recycled at end of use, the need for fibre-to-fibre recycling technologies was identified. From

this, the Project Plan B fibre-to-fibre mechanical extrusion technology was developed and backed by learnings and research, the CTF was created.

“David Luke has truly broken the mould by embracing new ways of working across its business to enable the swift and effective integration of circular design principles,” says Sophie Scanlon, head

of circular design at CTF. “We are delighted and proud to be assisting them in delivering the first recyclable school blazer, a standout piece and the first of its kind for schoolwear.”

With the majority of clothing, including school uniform, using blended fibres, the mechanical and chemical reprocessing technologies that exist have struggled to separate those fibres to ensure that they can all be reused again. Working with CTF, David Luke has gone through a significant process to assess every element of the products it is starting with, resourcing if necessary, in order to certify the content. This includes everything from fabric, buttons and thread to zips, interlining and shoulder

pads.“For garments using multi-fibres, circular solutions are challenging,” confirms Shuttleworth. “Many products within schoolwear may use blended fabrics for several different reasons including comfort, colour consistency or performance. However, we are committed to starting that redesign process with as many areas of our range as we can. We are aiming for some of the low-hanging fruit first before we embark on trials for new engineering and design in products. The process so far has been quicker than we feared but helped by the fact that our Eco blazers and Jackets use mono-fibre polyester.

“We are acutely aware that consistency and continuity are extremely important in schoolwear, so we will not seek to make changes that introduce unacceptable levels of variation. Nevertheless, we see that this is a movement that must grow to deliver a more responsible approach to garment production and consumption, so we are committed to continuing this journey.”

David Luke School Uniform is one of three brands under The Parently Group umbrella, with its sister brands being Juco, a kids’ activewear collection, and Grass&Air, which offers children’s wellingtons, accessories and outerwear. With the model of ‘take, make, use, lose’ rapidly becoming outdated, the Group is keen to keep moving forward and apply a circular

mindset to all that it does.

From this point on The Parently Group will take an all-encompassing approach to circular design, which it will apply to all new developments across the brands alongside communicating the process for circulatory to the wider industry. David Luke customers, for example, can actively join in with the brand’s circular journey by scanning the QR code found on the garment’s tag to find out how and where it can be recycled. There will also be information at point of sale and on David Luke’s website.“We feel that this information and education will also be a great pull for schools,” adds Shuttleworth. “The last 14 years of talking about recycled polyester still leaves people asking: But what happens to it at the end? With scenes like the Atacama Desert in Chile, where the clothing mountain is building up to horrific proportions, it feels so important to start this process of answering that question.”Thisyear

is a milestone for David Luke for several reasons. As well as closing the loop, the company is celebrating 40 years in business and will commemorate the retirement of its co-founder, David Burgess.

“We are really excited to be hosting our 40-year celebrations and marking the retirement of our joint founder David Burgess at the Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester,” concludes Shuttleworth. “With this venue housing some of the first mass production machinery that sparked off the industrial revolution in textiles, it seems such a fitting location to welcome special guests from CTF to talk about how we can start the next revolution in clothing – full circle.”

There is something almost poetic about David Luke’s sustainability journey. A loop that began with the progressive vision of recycled school blazers spearheaded by David Burgess, which has since been developed and closed by Burgess’ daughter and company MD, Kathryn Shuttleworth. The next phase of David Luke School Uniform is upon us.

“We have been quite obsessed with responsible production and consumption of clothing and exploring the next solution for end-of-life school uniform.”

SPORTSWEARWINNERS

CWB gets up to speed on the latest developments in school sportswear.

FALCON SPORTSWEAR

“At this year’s Schoolwear Show we are pleased to be introducing a couple of new ranges − Vision and Academy − plus a product addition into the Primary range, all to be available for Back to School

Manufactured2022/23. from 100 per cent recycled yarn, the Vision range is designed to take into consideration what today’s students feel comfortable in and the styles they are wearing outside of school. The range is fully coordinated, consisting of a polo, T-shirt, two styles of shorts, a mid-layer and hooded top, and will be offered from stock in six colourways. The Academy range is targeted at schools that simply require a well-designed, durable T-shirt and short combination, and will also be stocked in six colourways. As we have had a successful year with our Primary range, we are also introducing a Primary jogger, which will complement all the products available in the Primary range and again, will be manufactured using recycled yarns.

During Covid, pupils were asked to wear their PE kits throughout the school day, which resulted in schools introducing mid-layers, track pants and leggings. This was taken into consideration when designing the Vision range, our first thought being: Can it be worn all day? It also became apparent that this change in the use of sportswear has been introduced into primary schools too, hence the introduction of the ¼ zip top in 2022, and the new Y35 Primary jogger. If students are wearing their kits all day, it is more important than ever that we ensure the garments are hard-wearing and comfortable. The drive towards recycled fabrics is another important development and something we are focusing on.

TRUTEX

We currently have four of our ranges manufactured using recycled yarns, but our aim is to switch all our product lines. The difficulty is balancing the obvious benefits of offering recycled products, whilst also trying to maintain prices that are affordable.”

Simon Dooley, sales director

“At The Schoolwear Show we are launching a brand new sportswear range, AKOA Pulse, which offers contemporary design with new technical fabrics. The collection features seven core products in six stock colourways and has been designed to offer a cost-effective and good value range to customers, particularly in light of the new statutory uniform guidance.

Reflecting how sports fabrics are evolving, AKOA Pulse incorporates new fabrics such as a Fresh Rib for the hoody and mid-layer. It’s a more technical feeling fabric, which echoes the developments we have seen from high street brands. Girls’ sports and the growing trend for inclusion at all levels are also being fulfilled by providing functional garments that are well-made for both boys and girls. Our ranges include unisex and girls-specific garments to make sure everyone is comfortable and well-catered for.

During the pandemic we definitely saw more demand for sportswear, and this has continued to an extent since, although we haven’t seen a fundamental shift in the styles or designs required to meet schools’ needs. Despite the wider cost of living challenges across the UK, schools are still looking for good quality, well-made, functional garments that pupils also want to wear.”

Matthew Easter, Group CEO

JUCO

“There’s been a step-change in the way sportswear is used within schools, with the emergence of a ‘casual trend’ seeing us shift to a more progressive yet casual society. They say that fashion is a mirror of society and as we continue to navigate issues surrounding post-Covid living, climate change and a cost of living crisis, fashion will continue to evolve with it. Current school uniform has yet to see much of a change in 100 years, reflecting a time of formality and uniformity. The events of the pandemic propelled society towards a more casual working attire, changing how children perceive their parents’ fashion in the workplace.

Since the pandemic, many schools have continued to ask students to wear PE kit on days that involve a sports lesson or, for instance, during a heatwave. So, would it be so radical for UK schools to adopt a more casual attire period for the sake of ease and comfort? We predict an increased demand for sportswear and that a move towards more casual school uniform will be a key trend in the coming months. At The Schoolwear Show, we’ll be launching our new in-house print capability, a unique added-value feature of our Juco range. It’s the perfect moment to demonstrate how school sportswear can be elevated in order to remain ‘uniformed’ whilst benefiting from the comfort and convenience of students wearing PE kit in place of their school uniform.”

Matthew Thompson, business development manager

BANNER

“At Banner, our mission is for our entire product range to be sourced from sustainable materials. We’ve already made huge leaps toward this goal and in 2023 we’re going even further. What’s a sustainable uniform without a PE kit to Availablematch?for

2023, our entire APTUS brand is making the transition to sustainable fabrics, using recycled polyester to construct our much-loved sportswear garments. Products from both APTUS Essentials and Performance will still have the same quality, look and feel but now, collectively with our eco uniform, they’ll keep us on track to prevent 50+ million plastic bottles from going to landfill by 2025.

Our APTUS garments were designed to inspire students of any age, gender and body type to get involved with school sports with confidence. While this remains the core motivation for our APTUS ranges, the transition to eco fabrics reflects our dedication to doing the right thing for the planet and future generations.

The APTUS Eco transition will launch at this year’s Schoolwear Show and we’re excited to share all new developments with our customers. Make sure to visit us on 9-10 October at Cranmore Park, Solihull. We look forward to seeing you there.”

Poppy Kasapidis, content creator

GYMPHLEX

“At The Schoolwear Show, we will be launching our latest service, Gforce Signature, which is an innovative offer that enables schools to have a fully customised sports kit right through to the garment labelling and swing tags. Signature takes schools’ colours, crests, badges and labelling to create a custom-made own-brand range of sportswear that highlights only the school’s brand − as opposed to a supplier’s − whilst keeping that premium, sophisticated look throughout. To celebrate the launch, we’ll be running a special offer exclusively at The Schoolwear Show. Our team will also proudly present our latest school sports kit designs created by our in-house designers. These new designs, which still allow for complete customisation and personalisation, are a technical yet contemporary take on traditional school sports kit.

In terms of trends, we’re seeing an increased requirement for simplifying kit designs to make more subtle use of a school’s colours and branding. In a marketplace where customisation options are almost limitless, there’s a move to more premium-looking, sharper designs that better reflect a school’s ethos and values whilst keeping overall branding more consistent and not reducing the huge impact bespoke teamwear offers a school. We are also responding to the demand for environmental sustainability by offering long-lasting fabrics that can be easily cleaned, even at low temperatures. The technical nature of these fabrics offers user benefits during sport whilst also benefitting the environment. Recycled fabrics are on the rise too, as is some interest in our new antibacterial offer, which keeps those heavily used sports kits smelling fresher for longer.

Because sports kit is being worn for longer and more often since Covid, we’re finding this has increased its importance in the eyes of the school decision-makers. Our customers have been looking for modern kits that children will be proud to wear and perform in, as well as representing the school positively when worn to and from their homes. Naturally, the kit needs to be comfortable, functional and withstand regular wear and washing − we’re seeing more importance being placed on these factors − but also for teamwear garments to offer guaranteed continuity so parents are not having to repurchase their child’s sportswear unless they grow out of it.”

Simon Ward, sales director

FINISHING TOUCHES

CWB’s pick of school accessories

SMALL STUFF

New to The Schoolwear Show for 2022, Small Stuff designs accessories made from recycled materials. The range currently features 25 per cent or more recycled materials, with a commitment to increase this to 100 per cent by 2024.

The brand’s new heart print Back to School range includes large bow headbands in 100 per cent recycled polyester fabric with a recycled plastic inner headband; a headband set comprising a heart print and a plain headband using grosgrain ribbon fabric made from 100 per cent recycled bottles with a recycled plastic inner headband; and a scrunchie set in 100 per cent recycled polyester fabric. There are also purse belt bags with a star stitch design, zip closure and an elasticated waistband. All of the above are available in red, navy or green. For enquiries contact hello@smallstuffaccessories.com.

TARGET DRY

Ensuring children are always prepared for variable weather, the Mac in a Sac – Mini Origin Jacket is a lightweight, packable, waterproof and windproof jacket with a unisex fit. Offering a solid, functional look designed for the outdoors, the jacket is ideal for school and sports activities.Thehighly waterproof (10,000 mm) and breathable (8,000 gsm) jacket also features a YKK front zip; fully taped seams; concealed adjustable hood; back venting; elasticated cuffs; an adjustable drawcord on a curved hem and zipped front pockets. It is also PFC and PFOA free and has reflective detailing for safety. Available in sizes 2 to 4 years, 5 to 7 years, 8 to 10 years, and 11 to 13 years, the jacket comes in a choice of 14 colours. For enquiries contact sales@targetdry.com.

MUDDY PUDDLES

Muddy Puddles has over 20 years’ experience in providing hundreds of schools, nurseries and outdoor settings with high-quality outerwear that is made to last. All of the ranges are breathable to 2,000gm2, machine washable and 10,000mm waterproof, with features including taped seams, elasticated cuffs and hoods, and underfoot stirrups.

The Originals collection is Muddy Puddles’ bestseller for schools and nurseries. Made from recycled nylon, it comes in five unisex colours and can be worn with various layers to accommodate the seasons. The all-in-ones are ideal for younger children (0 to 6 years), moving then to the bib and brace and jacket, or trousers and jacket (up to 11 to 12 years.) The PU Rainy Day waterproof range is another popular layering piece for year-round wear. Featuring soft but durable PU fabric and welded seams for waterproof protection during forest play and outdoor learning, dungarees or trousers can be paired with a jacket to make a set. Sizes are 12 months to 12 years in a choice of red, yellow, royal blue and navy. There’s also Puddleflex – an insulated PU waterproof range with a recycled fleece lining –available in three core colours: red, navy and yellow. The jacket makes an ideal school coat and can be paired with trousers, while the all-in-ones for 6 months to 6 years cater for outdoor learning. Like the PU Rainy Day collection, fabrics are 100 per cent recycled and certified to Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex. Completing the offer are classic wellies in navy, red, green and yellow.All of the above are continuity lines available for orders and top-ups at any time. Muddy Puddles offers a 20 per cent discount to schools and nurseries, and bulk discounts for multi-academy trusts, academies and councils. For enquiries contact customerservices@muddypuddles.com.

POD

At this year’s Schoolwear Show, footwear brand POD will be showcasing school shoes for girls and boys that are expertly designed to offer a combination of modern contemporary styling and long-lasting comfort and protection.

From formal brogues to Mary Janes, Back to School styles are made from hardwearing and breathable leathers for shoes that will stand the test of time. Parents will recognise the distinctive styling of the shoes with iconic logo branding through woven logo tabs and embossed logo plaques that comply with school regulations. The collection has also undertaken rigorous testing; POD leaves no stone unturned to make shoes of the highest quality. Lightweight soles, padded collars and protective accents on the toe and heel all ensure comfort and support throughout the day. Plus, the shoes are kept fresher for longer with Micro-Fresh socks and linings used throughout the entire collection. POD school shoes are available in EU sizes 22 to 46. For enquiries contact wholesale@pod-shoes.com.

PEX

Pex has been designing children’s socks and tights since 1935. The company specifies premium quality cotton yarn and technical fibre mixes for its products, which let busy feet breathe. Features such as reinforced heels and toes, hand-linked ‘super comfort’ flat seam toe designs, and variable rib sizes help socks stay put and withstand the everyday rigours of school life as well as repeated washing without pilling, stretching or shrinking. For enquiries contact info@pexltd.com.

BOTTLESOC

Created to hold bottles of up to 500ml, Bottlesoc stretchy water bottle sleeves are made from recycled polyester and have 100 per cent recyclable packaging. Designed to be carried over the shoulder or across the body, Bottlesocs come with a fully adjustable strap with a safety ‘snap catch’, which comes apart if undue pressure is applied.

Bottlesoc’s mono colours come in black, white, red and navy, alongside a patterned range featuring flamingo, tropical, pink hearts, periwinkle, pink rose, Dalmatian and leopard prints. The water bottle sleeves are fully machine washable at 30 degrees and can be personalised with a school’s logo and an additional iron-on name patch. For enquiries and samples contact hello@bottlesoc.com.

BOBUX

School by Bobux comprises a range of styles in premium, patent and coated black leathers featuring fresh innovations that will comfortably take little ones from their pens and paper to the playground. Plus, they are all podiatrist approved.

New styles include the Venture Waterproof and the Jodhpur boot. Offering a black premium leather finish and a SplashTEX® waterproof hidden inner membrane, the Bobux Venture features a coated leather toe cap and heel counter for durability. This classic dress shoe, which is designed with full grain leather and a soft bamboo knit lining for breathability and protection, is adjustable to suit a range of foot widths with double strap fastening that also makes them easy to get on and off. A removable innersole made from leather and memory foam adds comfort and support and there is a dedicated space for personal labelling. Bobux has also taken everything customers love about its Jodhpur boot and made it school ready. Crafted from premium leather with an added protective coat to support scruff-prone areas like the toe and heel, the Jodhpur boot has a zip closure and elastic gusset for timeless style and a comfortable, secure fit. Plus, Bobux’s new, innovative Kid+ BBX rubber sole is non-marking, flexes with natural foot movement, and is designed to withstand the extra demand of everyday school wear. For enquiries contact Claus@bobux.com.

HOW THE SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION IS HELPING TO UPHOLD INDUSTRY STANDARDS AND SUPPORT FAMILIES DURING THE COST OF LIVING CRUNCH

Over the years, the Schoolwear Association has helped families meet the costs of school uniform. Now it is calling on the Government to make school uniform tax exempt to help drive down costs further and support families during the cost of living crisis. Matthew Easter, the Association’s chair, discusses the current state of play.

School uniforms sit at the heart of schools and our community right across the country. They act as a social leveller and help to reduce bullying, they promote pride and belonging among pupils and the wider community, and they ultimately boost children’s academic performance. However, as the cost of living crisis starts to bite, we recognise our responsibility as an industry to support families and help drive down costs where possible and ensure we can continue to provide quality products.

As an organisation that represents small, family-run businesses, the Schoolwear Association is all too aware of the financial pressures families are faced with, particularly as we approach the winter months.Insuch challenging times, the industry has come together to help drive down costs and has launched a campaign to call on the Government to make school uniform VAT exempt.

parents get value for money, without creating unreasonable burdens on schools or uniform suppliers.

As part of our Code of Practice, our members have also launched multiple initiatives that help reduce the cost of uniform and relieve the financial pressures. These vary locally but include second-hand uniform sales and swap shops, split payment plans and voucher schemes.

As an Association we have also recently set out a Charter for School Uniform Practices, which outlines our 10 key commitments to families, schools and the environment. The Charter sets out how we as an industry are working to drive up standards and are embracing a set of core values to make sure that everyone gets a fair deal on school uniforms.

WHAT MORE CAN BE DONE

As an industry, there is a lot we have done to support families, schools and our environment. However, to further support families during the cost of living crisis, we believe that the Government must also take action by abolishing VAT on all school-specific uniform items – the so-called ‘school uniform tax’ – to save them millions of pounds a year.

If VAT was removed on school-specific uniform items, each family would make significant savings in clothing their child during their school careers, at what is a relatively limited cost to the Treasury (an estimated £9 million.)

It is also important to ensure that the tax system treats all children with parity. Currently, the VAT is charged on uniform items for children aged 14 years and older, or children who are taller or larger than the average.

HOW THE INDUSTRY IS SUPPORTING FAMILIES

Our members have long supported families to meet the cost of uniform. Over the last year, the industry has worked closely with schools to bring down the combined average basket cost of compulsory secondary school uniform and sportswear, from £101.19 per pupil in 2020 to £93 in 2021 − a fall of over 8 per cent.Supporting schools in making decisions about their uniform needs is an essential part of reducing costs for families. To ensure schools were provided with consistent and proper support throughout the uniform provision process, the Association published a number of supporting documents and worked with the Department of Education (DfE) on its recently published guidance on the ‘Cost of school uniforms.’

This guidance seeks to ensure schools have a balanced and proportionate approach where school uniform is concerned and

Research by the Association has also found that the current measurement charts that determine the size of garments that will be charged VAT have not been updated since early 2003, despite evidence showing children are now larger than they were 20 years ago.

It is clear the current VAT system is unfairly costing families, and at a time of financial hardship, the timing is right for the Government to make adjustments and support the industry in making uniform more affordable.

In support of our campaign, we have recently launched a petition that calls on the Government to scrap VAT on school uniform and we have set out further information explaining why this is necessary in a more detailed policy report.

Ultimately, school uniform is still an integral and valued part of school life, and we have a responsibility to ensure we promote best practice to uphold industry standards and continue to provide good quality products for schools and families in the most affordable way. information, visit schoolwearassociation.co.uk.

B Banner 0333 7000 888 www.schoolwear.banner.co.uk

Blade & Rose 01539 730880 www.bladeandrose.co.uk

Bobux 0045 2020 7478 www.bobux.co.uk

Bottlesoc 07969 360958 www.bottlesoc.com

C Charles Kirk 0116 277 3336 www.charleskirk.co.uk

D David Luke 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com

Dotte hello@wearedotte.com www.wearedotte.com

E Eli & Amalia 07525 070118 www.eliandamalia.com

F Falcon Sportswear 01274 306440 www.falconsportswear.co.uk

Floss & Rock 01253 831512 www.flossandrock.co.uk

Frugi 01326 572828 www.welovefrugi.com

G Green & Heath 07985 740232 www.greenandheath.co.uk

Gymphlex 0116 255 6326 www.gforcesportswear.co.uk

H Happy Horse 01442 248099 www.finestforbaby.co.uk

Hello! Playdough! www.thefutureimage.co.ukhello@helloplaydough.co.uk

House of Margaux 07771 871781 www.houseofmargaux.co.uk

I INDX Kidswear 0121 683 1415 www.indxshow.co.uk

J Jammie Doodles info@jammiedoodles.com www.jammiedoodles.com

Juco 0161 272 7474 www.jucoactive.co.uk

K Kaloo sales@juratoys.co.uk www.kaloo.com

Keel Toys 01233 506363 www.keeltoys.com

L Little Beacon wholesale@little-beacon.com www.little-beacon.com

Little Cloud 9 07551 244434 www.littlecloud9.uk

Little Crusoe 07904 978692 www.littlecrusoe.com

Little Green Radicals 07754 www.littlegreenradicalswholesale.com495196

Lola Starr 07515 887978 www.lolastarr.co.uk

Lumimi 07973 526029 www.lumimi.no/en

M Make it British kate@makeitbritish.co.uk www.makeitbritish.co.uk Muddy Puddles www.muddypuddles.comcustomerservices@muddypuddles.com

O Oli&Carol 0117 230 2112 www.littleconcepts.co.uk

One+All 0161 477 7791 www.oneandall.co.uk

P Patch World hello@wearepatchworld.com www.wearepatchworld.com

Pex 0116 286 1616 www.pex-kids.com

Playpress Toys 07540 786463 www.playpresstoys.com

Pod 01924 820282 www.pod-shoes.com

S Schoolwear Association www.schoolwearassociation.co.ukinfo@schoolwearassociation.co.uk

Small Business Saturday UK www.smallbusinesssaturdayuk.comcomms@smallbusinesssaturdayuk.com

Small Stuff 01273 069200 www.smallworldaccessories.co.uk

Snails 01908 969969 www.insideouttoys.co.uk

Studio Circus 01908 969969 www.insideouttoys.co.uk

T Target Dry 028 9079 0588 www.targetdry.com

Taylor Walton 01582 731161 www.taylorwalton.com

The Insights Family 0161 528 7982 www.theinsightsfamily.com

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TALKING POINT MARIE BRADBURN

Schoolwear agent and deputy chair of the Schoolwear Association

Laura Turner speaks to Marie Bradburn - the newly appointed deputy chair of the Schoolwear Association and agent for William Turner, Falcon Sportswear and Magicfit –as she celebrates 35 years working in the schoolwear industry.

Laura Turner: How did your career path begin?

Marie Bradburn: I did geography and geology A-Level at sixth form; I’d always wanted to go into town and country planning and was offered a place at Sheffield. However, over the summer I was given the opportunity to take a textile technician sponsorship with Coats Viyella that came with a more technical education path into textiles along with a salary, so I opted for that instead. Textiles and textile manufacturing were such prominent industries at that time.

LT: What led you into the schoolwear industry?

MB: I took a job as an office manager for a small company called Jones & Park, which was a girls’ schoolwear manufacturer in Wigan. Like any small company you ended up doing a bit of everything, so I could be buying fabrics or dealing with HR issues. Jones & Park closed in 2005 and it was also at that point I decided I wanted more of a challenge. That same year I visited The Schoolwear Show and met with prominent companies in schoolwear. William Turner offered me a position and gave me many opportunities. I then joined Halbro and Raging Bull before developing my new agency representing William Turner, Halbro and Charles Kirk. William Turner and Charles Kirk set me on my path, and I’ve never looked back. I added Falcon Sportwear to my agency over eight years ago − a fantastic move and a great company that has grown from strength to strength − and last year I added Magicfit to my portfolio. I couldn’t have done it without the support of these amazing companies – and credit to Keith Turner and Andy Smith for seeing potential in me.

LT: How do you help support independent retailers and better understand their businesses?

MB: In 2018 I launched Women in Uniform, which is a group made up of mainly northern schoolwear retailers, and I arrange meetings for them to share information and discuss retail issues. When Covid hit we continued the meetings via Zoom and they proved invaluable, allowing the retailers to support each other and prepare for reopening. I also work with different schoolwear retailers in the summer and do a couple of days retailing during Back to School − it provides great insight and dare I say is rewarding too. My love of networking and interaction with people is also how I got involved with the Schoolwear Association (SA).

LT: You were recently appointed deputy chair of the SA – what attracted you to the role?

MB: I initially joined the SA when I became an agent, as it adds value to my position. I’d been an executive member for about nine years, and I also organise the annual SA event, but I wanted to be more involved and share my experience and knowledge. Working with David Burgess and his passion for the SA and our industry inspired me, so when the position of deputy chair arose, I went for it. The SA is very active at the moment, a lot is going on behind the scenes with the VAT campaign and the school uniform bill. The information members currently receive, including fortnightly mailers, is fantastic; as is the perseverance of the SA chair Matthew Easter, I must mention his hard work and the commitment all the execs put into the SA, voluntarily too.

LT: How has the schoolwear industry changed over the years?

MB: Back in the Jones & Park days – where we supplied Harrods, John Lewis, and various exclusive private girls’ schools - we had the control of a UK manufacturing set up. We could react instantly to orders if we needed to and took that for granted back then. However, UK manufacturing became too expensive and was all about the price. That was a huge change, manufacturing moving away from the UK. Schools wanted more of a corporate image and the PE Kit especially transformed due to demand. The growth of online, which was accelerated through Covid, has changed schoolwear retail and is a very different way of working. I’m also seeing greater focus on retail experience, including increased attention to merchandising and making the purchasing of school uniform a more enjoyable experience.

LT: What do you think the schoolwear industry should be focusing on in the future?

MB: Sustainable and recyclable product is becoming more available, even though schools can still be a bit cautious over price. Following the school uniform bill, our industry is under constant scrutiny, so we can’t lose sight of our end user and the ‘people element’. It’s not just about selling a product; we must continue focusing on why we’re selling it – the durability and longevity of the garment and how it supports pre-loved. We also need to continue putting back into our communities, which is something a lot of retailers have been doing for many years but don’t necessarily promote. Our industry is very fluid and big changes can happen quickly – I’m sure there will be more changes in the future. I’ve met some amazing people along my schoolwear journey − colleagues and friends − all with a passion for what we do. Let’s face it, what an achievement to send the children of the UK Back to School in uniform every year.