CWB 118

A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

cwb-online.co December/January 2020 Issue 118 £9.95

SHOW BUSINESS PREVIEWING THIS SEASON’S TRADE EXHIBITIONS COLOUR MY WORLD THE A/W 20/21 COLOUR STORIES FOR CHILDRENSWEAR MARKET TRENDS SIX TRENDS IMPACTING ON THE CHILDRENSWEAR SECTOR

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CONTENTS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

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CONTENTS 18

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36 REGULARS 05: COMMENT 06: NEWS

22: PITTI BIMBO Preview of the a/w 20 show 24: INDX KIDSWEAR Preview of the a/w 20 show

10: LEGAL ADVICE

27: COLOUR MY WORLD Fiona Coleman highlights five important colour stories for a/w 20/21

12: RETAIL THERAPY Store profiles and retail news

30: BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON Preview of Pure London’s kidswear show

14: BRANDS TO WATCH Editor’s pick of brands

32: CHIC Preview of the March 2020 show

16: LAURA LOVES The coolest products for kids

36: THE WORLD OF ELODIE The Swedish brand’s latest news including the opening of its UK sales office

08: NCWA

66: TALKING POINT Rosie Davies from Goodman Derrick LLP’s retail team on how bricks and mortar stores can remain competitive

FEATURES 18: EXHIBITION CALENDAR The season’s upcoming trade shows 20: TOP DRAWER S/S20 Preview of the show’s kids’ offer

38: MAXIMISE THE POWER OF PINTEREST Victoria Jackson on why you should integrate this platform into your digital strategy 40: BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS The latest from luxury children’s footwear brand Young Soles 42: HOW PEER-TO-PEER REVIEWS CAN GROW A BRAND’S IMAGE Parents Insights latest findings

44: THE NEXT CHAPTER FOR PICTURE BOOK FASHION Exciting expansion plans for Picture Book Fashion 47: SMALL BUT MIGHTY What’s next for UK manufactured infant shoe specialist Early Days 50: CHILDRENSWEAR MARKET TRENDS Six trends impacting on the sector

SCHOOLWEAR 54: NEWS 57: SA AWARDS 2019 – THE RESULTS The winners, finalists and high commended in this year’s SA Awards 60: USING TWITTER TO BUILD YOUR SCHOOLWEAR BUSINESS Top tips from social media and online marketing expert Alex McCann 62: HOW TO MAKE YOUR STORE MORE AUTISM-FRIENDLY Advice on making your store more inclusive

FRONT COVER: MiTCH 0141 552 5970 | marketing@picturebookfashion.com | www.picturebookfashion.com DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 03

COMMENT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

COMMENT Whilst writing this comment just days away from the general election, I am acutely aware of the industry’s need for stability amid the continuing uncertainty about Brexit.

Whilst we can’t change the challenging trading conditions, what we can do is provide you with a reliable resource in CWB; one that will inform, support and hopefully help enhance your business. We also want to provide some positivity and inspiration by championing the industry’s success stories; the new store openings, the brand launches, the award-wins. In short, we want to support your business any way we can and the content in this issue has that sentiment very much in mind.

The a/w 20 buying season is almost upon us, so to provide some insight in terms of what’s in store we have a host of trade show previews with the latest news, updates and key signings. For those seeking further inspiration ahead of the season, we also have a colour trends feature where industry expert Fiona Coleman highlights five important a/w 20 colour stories to watch out for.

If you’re looking for new ways to drive traffic to your website, don’t miss our report on how to maximise the power of Pinterest. Despite being one of the most underrated free marketing tools available, Pinterest actually has the potential to drive thousands of new visitors to your website – in turn, presenting the perfect opportunity to convert visitors to customers.

Another hot topic this issue is market trends. From the macro to the micro and economic factors through to new fashion tastes and innovations, we bring you the main trends impacting on the childrenswear sector.

In schoolwear, we celebrate the winners, finalists and highly commended in the SA Awards 2019.

Hosted by the representative body of the industry, The Schoolwear Association, this year’s awards provided another inspiring platform to acknowledge the hard work and dedication of those in the sector.

Congratulations again to all involved.

Talking of dedication, independent schoolwear retailers are well-known for their efforts to accommodate customer needs. While a number already provide autism-friendly and SEN inclusive shopping sessions, especially around the busy Back to School period, for those who wish to make changes in the future we have an advice piece with simple systems to put in place to make shopping more comfortable and inclusive for children with autism.

Elsewhere in schoolwear, social media and online marketing expert Alex McCann returns with the second instalment of his social media advice. Having tackled how to get the most out of Instagram last issue, Alex now turns his attention to Twitter and how best to use the platform to build your business.

Until our next print issue you can follow all of the latest industry updates at cwb-online.co.

To receive the week’s news direct to your inbox, simply sign up to our newsletter via the homepage of CWB’s website. On the topic of digital, keep an eye out for the brand new NCWA website launching early 2020. We’ll be bringing you more on this in the New Year. On that note, I’d like to take the opportunity to wish you all a very Merry Christmas. See you in 2020.

Laura Turner, Editor

EDITOR LAURA TURNER laura@cwbmedia.co.uk SALES MANAGER MICHELE ALI michele@cwbmedia.co.uk DESIGNER MICHAEL PODGER podgerdesign@outlook.com MARKETING EMILY BEARDSWORTH emily@maycreativemerketing.com REPROGRAPHICS/PRINTING IMAGE DATA GROUP LTD 01482 652323 cwb-online.co CWB is published 4 times per year by NCWA, 3 Queen Square, Bloomsbury, London WC1N 3AR +44 (0) 20 7843 9488 | enquiries@ncwa.co.uk | www.ncwa.co.uk Copyright© 2019 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither NCWA nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

CWB is a fashion business publication owned and produced by The Childrenswear Association.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 05

CWB-ONLINE.CO | NEWS

NEWS ROUND-UP BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN FASHION AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT GOALS

BEST DRESSED KIDZ OPENS SECOND STORE Dumfries-based independent childrenswear boutique, Best Dressed Kidz, has opened a second store in Carlisle city centre. Customers were invited to attend the official opening of the 1,065 sq. ft shop on Saturday 23 November.

“I’m taking a massive leap in opening my second UK store,” says founder Greer Blackadder. “I’m looking forward to getting to know our Cumbrian customers.”

Best Dressed Kidz was established nine years ago within a small shop on Dumfries’ historic Vennel.

After only a few months of trading it moved to a larger three-storey building on Bank Street, Dumfries, where it continues to trade today.

Next for the retailer is the opening of a new footwear department in spring 2020.

To mark its official launch this December, the Conscious Fashion Campaign (CFC) is committing to actively support the upcoming Decade of Action and Delivery for Sustainable Development. Founded by social impact entrepreneur Kerry Bannigan (pictured), CFC aims to overcome the divide between leaders from the fashion industry and the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

In collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, the initiative champions fashion as an influential industry to address the world’s most pressing issues. “Following a one-year pilot phase to discover what the fashion industry understood about the SDGs, and what else could be implemented, the CFC immersed itself into the retail event sector – specifically trade shows – to connect with brands and retailers at the beginning of the buying cycle,” says Bannigan. “With partnerships in the USA, UK, France, Germany, The Netherlands and China, and names including Coterie, Project and Magic, Neonyt, Pure London, Who’s Next Paris

and Kingpins, we have already introduced the SDGs to over 96,000 retailers and buyers representing 87 countries.”

The CFC has also aligned with 460 conscious fashion brands and engaged with global brands including representatives from GAP, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Stella McCartney, G Star RAW, Target, DKNY and Marks & Spencer to learn what fashion companies are doing to align with the SDGs.

MODA INTRODUCES LITTLE SOLES FOR KIDS’ FOOTWEAR

DEVELOPMENTS FOR MUDDY PUDDLES

UK fashion trade exhibition Moda is placing a spotlight on kids’ footwear with the launch of a new Little Soles section. Taking place on 23-25 February 2020 at Birmingham’s NEC, the Little Soles zone will present a host of dedicated children’s footwear brands as well as a Little Soles Café and play area.

Brands confirmed within Little Soles include Froddo (pictured), Old Soles, Primigi, Superfit, Ricosta, Shoesme, Young Soles, Salamander and Petasil. Throughout the rest of the footwear hall, brands and distributors showing kids’ footwear as part of their wider offerings include XTi, Ipanema, Skechers kids, CROCS kids, Rider, Zaxy, Grendha, Roamers, GOOR, Route 21, DEK, US Brass and Boulevard.

In June, award-winning children’s outerwear brand Muddy Puddles completed a deal to join forces with UK outdoor children’s clothing company Kozi Kidz. By bringing Kozi Kidz under the Muddy Puddles umbrella, the brands are combining their business know-how and practical expertise to secure leadership in the sector and meet omnichannel demands.

For a/w 20, Muddy Puddles is also making its INDX Kidswear debut. At the show, the brand will launch new colours and designs as well as previewing a padded PU jacket and winter/ski overall, both of which are brand new for a/w 20. Muddy Puddles is also continuing its sustainable focus with an increased proportion of the range created in recycled fabrics and 100 per cent of the packaging to be biodegradable.

ISBJÖRN OF SWEDEN LAUNCHES RENTAL BUSINESS Technical and sustainable outdoor childrenswear brand Isbjörn of Sweden has launched a rental business for its range of clothing for 0 to 16 years. The rental business, which officially launched in November and runs via the company website, aims to reduce textile waste by reusing garments as well as making new ranges more accessible.

Customers can sign up for a seasonal subscription to rent Isbjörn shell garments for a monthly fee. Items are then returned for reconditioning for use in the next season. The second time a garment is on rental it will be at a reduced cost, with the customer given the opportunity to purchase the garment at a discounted price. Unpurchased items will be sold on to the second-hand market.

Isbjörn’s rental business will initially launch as a pilot in Sweden before rolling out globally.

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NEWS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LIL’ CUBS X MR. MEN LITTLE MISS

TURTLEDOVE LONDON AW20 Turtledove London’s new a/w 20 collection sees the organic childrenswear brand take inspiration from 90s Manchester and the city’s music, fashion and design scene.

Lowry’s art inspires both colour pops and imagery for the brand’s prints while the city’s symbol of the Worker Bee is mirrored in a Honey Bee Print for boys and girls. Elsewhere, a new Superstar print reflects 90s Manchester being the centre of the club and Britpop music scene.

To further enhance its sustainable credentials this season, the brand is also introducing an edited collection of Forever Loved pieces. Produced in organic rib fabrics, these modern classics are suitable to wear year-round, supporting the move towards seasonless dressing.

RHS LICENSING STYLE GUIDE FOR KIDS’ PRODUCTS Gardening charity The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) has launched a new children’s style guide to support a wide range of kids’ products.

The guide, which builds on the charity’s success in outreach for children, families and schools as well as child-friendly events at its gardens and shows, encompasses four styles: Home Grown, I Bug You and the traditional and timeless Flower Power and Trees & Leaves.

The main target categories for the children’s product campaigns include apparel, toys, games, books and tools for young gardeners.

Kids’ clothing brand Lil’ Cubs has launched a brand-new Mr. Men Little Miss range featuring two limited-edition prints.

First to land is the Blue Grid design.

Available from December, the bold and unisex print features several favourites including Mr Sneeze and Little Miss Sunshine available on swaddle muslins, dribble bibs, sleepsuits and leggings.

Following in January 2020, the second design features Mr Tall & Mr Small and will be available in two different colourways; white for sleepsuits, bibs and swaddles and bright yellow for T-shirts and leggings.

RACHEL RILEY TEAMS WITH THEODORA CHILDREN’S CHARITY Childrenswear label Rachel Riley is collaborating with Theodora Children’s Charity. Theodora was established in 1994 by brothers Jan and André Poulie in memory of their mother, Théodora.

The charity’s aim is to bring joy to sick and disabled children in hospital through Giggle Doctors, who visit the children to give them a little respite and distraction from the distress of a hospital stay.

In support of the charity’s work, Rachel Riley will be donating £1 from the sale of all a/w 19 heart-themed garments to Theodora; this includes purchases online and in-store. The brand is also inviting its customers to match the donation.

WEXBABY X THE FOSTERING NETWORK French-inspired kidswear brand Wexbaby is once again collaborating with The Fostering Network, a UK charity that works to ensure all fostered children experience stable family life.

The Fostering Network is close to the hearts of Wexbaby’s co-founders, sisters Ettie and Sally Wexsteen, who themselves were raised in foster care. In recognition of this, Wexbaby has pledged to donate 20 per cent from every sale throughout November and December to the charity.

“After we proudly collaborated with The Fostering Network team last Christmas, we want to continue to support them and the 64,000+ children who currently find themselves living in foster homes,” says brand co-founder, Ettie Wexsteen.

MINI MODE – GLOBAL KIDS FASHION WEEK Mini Mode, which is rebranding to Mini Mode – Global Kids Fashion Week, is set to return for its fifth season on 14-15 February 2020 during London Fashion Week. Founded by UK childrenswear designer Amanda Rabor, the event remains dedicated to diversity and inclusion, with sustainability also a focus this season.

Offering an Industry and Consumer Show for toddlers through to teens, Mini Mode will take place at St Mary’s on Wyndham Place, London. The Industry Show on Friday 14 February 2020 is open to buyers, press, bloggers, influencers and celebrities and will preview the latest a/w 20 collections.

NEWS IN BRIEF The organisers of Brand Licensing Europe (BLE) have confirmed that fashion will be the sole theme for BLE 2020.

Next year’s event, which returns to ExCeL London on 6-8 October 2020, will live and breathe fashion licensing including apparel, footwear, accessories and beauty. Early stage plans include a live catwalk and themed shows.

The second-hand apparel market is growing 21 times faster than the primary market according to B-Stock, the world’s largest online B2B platform for returned and excess apparel. Driving the trend is the rise in online resale and consignment marketplaces as well as young consumers looking to make more sustainable shopping choices.

Once Upon A Foxx is a newly launched range of luxury organic bath products for children. Suitable for use from newborn, the products are veganfriendly and are not tested on animals.

Products in the range include a foaming shampoo, a lightweight foaming body wash, a bubble bath and a premium organic formulation body lotion.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 07

CWB-ONLINE.CO | NCWA

NCWA NEWS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT The last time I wrote an article for CWB, I dared not write about Brexit. This time I dare not write about what complexion the House of Commons might have or the identity of the Prime Minister.

What I do know for certain, however, is that the exhibition season will soon be upon us and whether you are a brand or a retailer you should (dare I say need to?) visit the trade shows that will be taking place in the early part of 2020.

If you are a retailer, you need to see what is on offer, even if you are worried about being tempted to place too many orders. You need to see what your competitors will be seeing and thus ensure that you will not be left behind. If you are a brand but have decided not to exhibit, you need to see what your competitors will be showing as well as deciding whether your decision not to exhibit was a wise one. Trade exhibitions are a window through which one can see what is happening within the childrenswear market. Not all ranges will sell well, but any brand can have a “poor” season. Not all brands will survive, but many of the new successful brands will first be seen at an exhibition.

The chance to catch up with those you know in the industry is also invaluable, wherever you are based and whatever you do. So, whether the Election result fills you with gloom or hope, I do hope I will see you at the shows in the New Year.

Do not forget too that there are videos on our website to help you. “How to Walk a Trade Show” and “How to Exhibit at a Trade Show” give you pointers on how best to approach visiting and exhibiting. Preparation is key. If you are exhibiting, do not forget to tell your regular customers and those retailers you would like to become customers where your stand will be. If you are a retailer, take a look at the exhibitor list beforehand and mark up those brands that appeal to you, so that your time at the exhibition is well spent.

We shall be launching our new website in the early part of 2020. Our current website has served us well, but we want to ensure that all our news and information can be viewed as easily on mobile devices as on pcs and laptops, as well as making it seamlessly navigable. One thing that will not change is the page for each and every NCWA member. Whilst the design may be different, members will still be able to show pictures of their ranges or shops, give contact details and a description of their business and a link through to their own website. We shall soon be contacting all members asking for up to date information, so do look out for that email from us.

Finally, whilst many of you may be sick of the word “Brexit”, I hope that the information that we have been putting out over recent weeks will be of use if/when Brexit goes ahead. In any event, you can rest assured that NCWA will continue to keep members up to date with developments in 2020.

As far as the safety of childrenswear is concerned, nothing will change, so do ensure that your garments meet all the requirements on Cords and Drawstrings, Mechanical Safety and Nightwear Flammability.

If you would like to know more about how to become a member and enjoy the benefits of the only organisation for all those in the childrenswear industry, do get in touch with us at NCWA, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488; info@ncwa.co.uk. If you are not a member, do look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk. You can easily join online and membership starts at only £100 (+ VAT) per annum.

Elizabeth P Fox Executive Director NCWA COUNCIL: Chairman: MARK BARNETT, Barnett Agencies Vice Chairman: IMRAN HASSAN, Lilly & Sid Imm. Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH, RSB Associates Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS, David Luke Ltd — COUNCIL MEMBERS: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent, DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent, DANIELE SISMONDI Brand Stable Agent RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer, EMMA-JANE ADAM Love My Smalls Ltd Manufacturer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer, SHOSHANA KAZAB Kidswear Collective Retailer JENNY ERWIN Arnotts Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

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BABY GI THE NEWBORN SPECIALIST Represented in the UK by The Willows Agency, Portuguese brand Baby Gi is a recent addition to the babywear market. Dedicated entirely to newborn babies aged 0 to 12 months, the range focuses on quality, design and comfort and includes babygros, babysuits, baby essentials, pyjamas, body vests, bibs, blankets, towels, muslins, cushions and nursery bags.

The materials used are 100 per cent cotton, which ensures that the garments are soft and comfortable without compromising on design.

Baby Gi’s colour palette, meanwhile, focuses on soft tones of blue, pink and grey alongside cream and white.

CAD MODELLING ENHANCES OFFER In order to meet clothing manufacturers’ needs, Cad Modelling continues to make improvements to its anthropometric mannequins, Formax. The latest updates include a more user-friendly hanging system for the mannequin as well as offering all children’s heights in both the articulated and fixed hip versions starting from 100cm in height/age three years. Additionally, Formax fit mannequins are fully customisable to customers’ needs in terms of measurements and body shapes.

In 2020, Cad Modelling will exhibit its Formax fit mannequins at the following trade exhibitions; Pitti Bimbo in Florence from 16-18 January; Kids’ Time in Kielce, Poland from 19-21 February; and Morocco Fashion Tex Fair in Casablanca from 19-22 March.

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THE NATIONAL CHILDRENSWEAR ASSOCIATION OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available.

Membership costs from £100.

NCWA | CWB-ONLINE.CO

NCWA TO LAUNCH NEW WEBSITE The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) is set to unveil a new digital presence in early 2020.

The launch will see the introduction of a fully-revamped and user-friendly website offering seamless navigation.

Providing responsive design to give users the optimum viewing experience across mobile, tablet and desktop devices, the new platform will include all of the Association’s latest news alongside informative videos and access to its social media feeds.

As previously, the website will also feature members’ pages, which include a description of each member’s business, brand or store images and full contact details. All members will be contacted via email in due course to update their information.

For any enquiries regarding the new website or NCWA membership contact enquiries@ncwa. co.uk.

FRUGI APPOINTS NEW ECOMMERCE DIRECTOR Organic and ethical clothing brand Frugi has hired James Williams as its new director of ecommerce and marketing. Williams, who previously worked at Phase Eight where he was director of online and marketing, will oversee a team of 22 in his new role at Frugi. His remit will specifically include online trading, conversion rate optimisation and email marketing, digital marketing, brand marketing, PR, social and web development.

“I’m delighted that James will be joining us at a pivotal time for Frugi as we continue to invest in international growth,” says Frugi’s chief executive officer, Hugo Adams. “James will play a key role in these ambitious plans, which aim to significantly increase global turnover.”

Williams adds: “Frugi is an exceptional ethical brand with a track record of success. I am very much looking forward to the challenge of this new role and joining the team.”

LILLY AND SID EMBRACES FAIRYTALES FOR AW20

GRASS & AIR TO MAKE PLAYTIME PARIS DEBUT

A/w 20 sees childrenswear brand Lilly and Sid look to the world of fantasy and fairytales with a collection that celebrates the stories and illustrations of yesteryear; all in GOTS certified organic cotton fabrics.

Expect embroidery details featuring woodland creatures, florals for girls on vintageinspired shapes and new techniques to give a handcrafted feel to modern manufacturing. Frill inserts give a pretty silhouette to sleeves, necklines and yokes alongside contrast overlocking and embroideries. On-trend character dresses, pockets and leggings are also key.

Meanwhile, wording and characters combine in a stand-out graphics collection for baby and older boys, with bears featuring throughout the collection. Dinosaurs, monsters and lions are also included in new appliques, prints and embroideries for 0 to 8 years.

Elsewhere, 3D character details on sleeves, pockets and hoods encourage imaginative play.

Other highlights include a limited-edition woven check for boys and girls and a unisex tartan design.

New fabrics include soft voile, cord and dotty jersey jacquard for girls. Cord also features across the boys’ collections along with a new neppy sweatshirting fabric.

Following its second year of successful trading, Manchester-bred Welly brand Grass & Air is continuing its growth trajectory with its first international trade show.

Already a firm fixture at UK trade shows including INDX Kidswear and Top Drawer, Grass & Air has been selected to showcase its collection at Playtime Paris on 25-27 January 2020. The award-winning brand has also been handpicked to sit in the New Now space alongside 11 other up and coming labels exhibiting at Playtime Paris for the first time.

“To sit amongst innovative designers, meet new buyers and showcase our 2020 innovation and technology is a significant milestone,” says business development manager, Melissa McLaverty.

In addition to its trademark core range of colour-revealing wellies, Grass & Air will be previewing its new UV Collection. Pushing the boundaries of colour-changing technology, the UV Collection features hand-sketched patterns and trend-led pastel shades. The technology, meanwhile, sees the prints change colour simply by stepping outside.

NEWS IN BRIEF John Lewis & Partners has launched a major pilot at its Oxford shop to encourage a ‘reduce, reuse & return’ culture among customers. The pilot, which could provide a blueprint for other shops, will test eight ways in which the retailer and its customers can reduce their impact on the planet. Examples include removing 5p plastic carrier bags, trialling a reusable Click and Collect bag made from 100 per cent recycled materials and testing a new recyclable wrapping in place of bubble wrap.

Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust (FTCT) is calling to parents and carers facing redundancy following Mothercare’s closure of 79 UK stores to apply for its grants to cover the costs of essential items for their children. It is also reaching out to Mamas & Papas employees who are facing redundancy. FTCT grants help the children of UK fashion and textile employees who are struggling financially. For further information on grants visit ftct.org.uk.

Kathryn’s was the only independent childrenswear retailer to take part in payment provider Klarna’s recent House of Klarna pop-up activation in the heart of Manchester. Designed to engage customers by bringing the online experience offline, and giving retailers the perfect opportunity to bring their brand to life, the House of Klarna pop-up played host to 10 full days of experiential activity and interactive in-store activations.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 09

CWB-ONLINE.CO | LEGAL ADVICE

OPEN TO BUSINESS BRINGING YOU STRAIGHT–TALKING LEGAL ADVICE

Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP www.agentlaw.co.uk www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.distributorlaw.co.uk www.foxwilliams.com

AGENTS AND SUB-AGENTS – WHAT ARE THE ISSUES? Appointing an agent who then goes on to appoint one or more sub-agents is fairly common. But despite this, less certain is the application of the Commercial Agents Regulations, both to agents and sub-agents.

WHAT IS THE UNCERTAINTY FOR AGENTS? Whether the sub-agents are appointed to cover a group of customers or a territory, the starting point is to determine the appointment of the agent. A commercial agent is defined as a self-employed intermediary having continuing authority to negotiate the sale or purchase of goods.

But one of the exceptions to when an agent is not a commercial agent for the purpose of the Regulations is when the activities of the agent are “secondary activities” as defined by the Regulations.

It is, therefore, possible to envisage a situation where an agent is appointed to recruit and manage a number of subagents. In effect, the agent creates a salesforce for the principal.

But in this situation, there is an argument to say that as the agent’s primary activity is the recruitment and management of a salesforce, the Regulations do not apply.

This situation can be contrasted with the situation where the principal appoints the agent to obtain orders on behalf of the principal – in essence, giving the agent continuing authority to negotiate the sale of goods as mentioned above. If the agent chooses to do so by recruiting a number of sub-agents, it would be a hard judge who decided that the agent was not a commercial agent and, therefore, that the Regulations did not apply.

The only reported English court judgment to date does not make the situation clearer. In its judgment, the Court of Appeal decided that an agent concerned with managing a number of sub-agents could have a claim against the principal under the Regulations.

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WHAT IS THE UNCERTAINTY FOR SUB-AGENTS? Before the Court of Appeal judgment, the High Court had considered the position of the sub-agents in this case. The High Court decided that sub-agents could claim compensation against the principal (not the agent) under the Regulations.

Unsurprisingly the principal appealed to the Court of Appeal and claimed that for the Regulations to apply there would need to be a direct contractual link between principal and sub-agents.

The Court of Appeal agreed with the principal. However, it was clear from the Court of Appeal’s judgment that the thought that the sub-agents would be unable to benefit from the Regulations concerned the Court of Appeal. As a result, the Court of Appeal expressed the view that the sub-agents should be entitled to a share of what was obtained by the agent by way of compensation (or indemnity) from the principal.

SO, WHAT IS TO BE DONE? From the principal’s perspective, the scope of the appointment of the agent may provide the principal with an escape route from a claim for compensation or indemnity under the Regulations where the appointment of sub-agents is anticipated.

From the agent’s perspective, however, it follows that the reverse is also the case. Careful wording of the scope of the appointment may result in the agent being able to claim compensation (or indemnity) under the Regulations.

From the perspective of a sub-agent, meanwhile, a sub-agent may be able to claim a share of the compensation (or indemnity) recovered by the agent. Alternatively, it might be argued that there was an implied trust between agent and sub-agent and that the agent holds the compensation (or indemnity) (or at least part of it) on trust for the sub-agent. © 2019 Fox Williams LLP

THE

CHILDRENSWEAR A S S O C I AT I O N

+44(0)2078439488 | ENQUIRIES@NCWA.CO.UK | NCWA.CO.UK

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | RETAIL

RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques, as well as news from the world of childrenswear retail.

ROCKIT CHILDREN’S BOUTIQUE St Crispins Retail Village, Kent Road, Northampton, NN5 4WF On 5 October, St Crispins Retail Village in Northampton welcomed Rockit Children’s Boutique, bringing a much-needed independent offering to the local community. Owner Holly Hamer’s inviting store is both child and parent-friendly, with a fun tree installation (salvaged from local woodland) providing a central play area. Surrounding this, the shop floor is spacious and open to enable easy access for customers, especially those with prams.

With a focus on sustainability, most of the shop fittings are from a local wood recycling CIC. Meanwhile, the childrenswear offering for premature up to age 11 years concentrates on organic and ethically produced pieces featuring bright, fun prints and where possible, unisex designs. Alongside the clothing are hats, socks, tights, gifts and children’s bedroom décor, with baby and toddler shoes coming soon. Key brands include Toby Tiger, Villervalla, Bird & Boy, Lily & Mortimer, Billy Loves Audrey, Sass & Belle, Jane Foster Designs and Rockahula Kids.

Hamer is a big fan of in-store experiences and collaborations. Having previously worked in

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the voluntary sector, she now wants to bring her involvement in local community activities to the Rockit brand. Events that have already taken place include autism-friendly shopping, unicorn hair braiding and party hair tuition. Hamer has also introduced a loyalty card in collaboration with neighbouring business Mellimo Beauty, which offers customers a treat for themselves after shopping for the children. Another

partnership with Olive and Pip, a small business that transfers children’s drawings onto items of clothing and gifts, has seen Hamer taking orders for Christmas jumpers. Olive and Pip also designs custom Rockit branded clothing for the store. By continuing to provide a steady stream of community-focused events, Hamer’s aim is to become a hub for local parents. www.rockitkids.co.uk

RETAIL | CWB-ONLINE.CO

NEWS

ROSIE CHEEKS Unit 1147, Westfield Shopping Centre London, W12 7GG Rosie Cheeks opened its new Westfield White City store on 30 August, although it had previously occupied a store in Marlow, Buckinghamshire for three years.

The business is owned by Rose and Meg Foster, a mother and daughter partnership that combines Rose’s wealth of experience and detailed knowledge of the industry together with Meg’s keen eye for detail and a background in marketing.

Since starting out three years ago selling just one brand, the duo has grown the business to create a broad offering for newborn up to 10 years. Rosie Cheeks specialises in all things girly, sparkly and fluffy, which it combines with affordable prices and personal customer service.

Alongside childrenswear, it offers a range of accessories including shoes, hair accessories and décor, with its famous animal heads featuring in every shop window. Brands include Dolly by Le Petit Tom, Angel’s Face, Angel & Rocket, Minoti, Rockahula Kids, Meia Pata and Looks Like Cool. Rosie Cheeks is also the first UK stockist of Me & Henry. The duo’s plans now are to open more stores across the UK within the next three to five years.

WEBWATCH BALOU KIDS www.balou.co.uk

Balou Kids’ website and bricks and mortar shop in Stratford-upon-Avon launched on 9 November. British born designer Banayioda Theodorou - a childrenswear designer for nearly 10 years and a mother herself founded the business with the vision of creating a brand of stylish, luxury fashion for children at affordable prices. Balou not only produces high-quality products with attention to creative detail but also ensures everything it makes is easy to care for, easy to wear and durable.

The brand’s website has a clear and simple design using soft, neutral colours to allow the products to speak for themselves. It also offers easy purchasing and prioritises customer service to ensure each visitor has a seamless shopping experience from start to finish. Plans for the business are to expand the collections, namely the travel and accessories product line, and to open a second bricks and mortar shop in the next 18 months.

MORI OPENS DEBUT STANDALONE STORE Baby essentials brand MORI has opened its first standalone store on Northcote Road in Battersea, London. Designed by award-winning interior design agency FormRoom, the 600 sq. ft store offers a destination where customers can interact with the MORI product range whilst learning about the garments’ sustainable production. It also features a snug area where parents can meet, connect and relax and from which the brand can host inspirational events for parents and parents-to-be.

SNÜGG SCOOPS BEST INDEPENDENT APPAREL RETAILER AWARD Snügg, the Scandinavian concept store for babies and children, is the proud winner of the Best Independent Apparel Retailer Award (sponsored by Amscan International) in the Progressive Preschool Awards 2019. Located on Ecclesall Road in Sheffield, the store stocks a variety of Scandinavian labels including Mini Rodini, Soft Gallery, Moccis, Sebra, Design Letters and Konges Slojd alongside a selection of toys and lifestyle product.

NEWS IN BRIEF Eco-conscious children’s lifestyle store, Small Stuff, recently upgraded its website to better reflect the business and unite the shop’s on- and offline offering. Key features of the site include specific product categories, Apple Pay and Google Pay, customer reviews, a chat option and multi-currency payment. Plus, if you’re local, you can now pick up online orders in-store free of charge. Small Stuff also recently won the Highly Commended Award in the Best Small Shops 2019 competition.

John Lewis Partnership is extending its Click & Collect network to third-party retailers. First in the trial is a collaboration with Boden, with the potential to expand to more brands.

Boden customers can now use the John Lewis & Partners Click & Collect service to pick up their parcels from 30 Waitrose & Partners stores. Launched in 2008, Click & Collect is a significant success story for the Partnership, with 57 per cent of all online orders currently delivered through the service.

Baby Kingdom Collection’s range of premium baby toiletries is now stocked in independent childrenswear retailer Trotters. Founded in 1990 by husband and wife team Richard Ross and Sophie Mirman, Trotters sells exclusive ranges of children’s clothing alongside shoes, books and toys. The announcement follows similar agreements for Baby Kingdom Collection in recent months, with the brand also available via Childrensalon and John Lewis & Partners.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 13

CWB-ONLINE.CO | EDITOR’S PICK

02

01

BRANDS TO WATCH CWB EDITOR LAURA TURNER SELECTS THE MUST-HAVE COLLECTIONS TO GET IN STORE.

14 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

01: WISH + WONDER

02: DINKI HUMAN

Wish + Wonder specialises in modern heirloom pieces using premium fabrics and trims. The collection for girls age six months up to six years includes occasionwear, party dresses, high waisted bloomers and matching hair bow sets. Cristina Hadjikyriacou-Harris established the brand after having her daughter, but her love of fashion goes back to childhood. After being taught about the construction of garments and how to sew, pleat and pattern cut by her parents, she went on to study at Central Saint Martins. She then worked for high profile British brands, celebrities and retailers before launching Wish + Wonder’s debut collection in June. Wholesale prices on request. www.wishandwonder.co.uk

Dinki Human is a new gender-neutral, organic and ethically manufactured kidswear brand for 0 to 4 years. Designed by Ester Ford, it includes leggings, T-shirts, sweatshirts, bodysuits, onesies and muslins. Garments offer a relaxed fit for freedom of movement as well as room to grow.

‘Pass me down’ labels remind customers to get the most from the garments while a Pre-Loved Initiative helps ensure the clothing avoids landfill. In addition to using organic cotton, non-toxic inks and dyes, and recycled and plastic-free packaging, Dinki Human’s supply chain is transparent and it adheres to ethical standards policies. Wholesale prices £5 to £15. www.dinkihuman.com

EDITOR’S PICK | CWB-ONLINE.CO

03

05

04

03: LILY & GRACE

04: PICKLE

05: OCEANBLUU

Launched in 2019, Lily & Grace is the little sister to women’s clothing company Lily & Me. Founded by Amelia Haywood and partner Hari Bhatta, alongside Haywood’s siblings Ben and Polly, the family-run company specialises in hand-drawn prints inspired by nature. Currently short order only, highlights from the s/s 20 collection for 3 to 12 years include tropical florals, a jungle scene, a snoozy sloth print and retro graphic T-shirts and sweats. The majority of the company’s collections are manufactured in its own factory in Nepal. Wholesale prices £5 to £14.50. www.lilyandmeclothing.com

Having studied design and textiles at St. Martin’s and with four children of her own, Claire Bibaud felt creating her own brand of baby clothes and accessories seemed the natural thing to do.

Catering for 0 to 10 years, the award-winning brand’s collection includes Oeko-Tex certified jersey cotton bodysuits with Nickel-free popper fastenings as well as rompers, sweatshirts, trousers, leggings, T-shirts, jackets and pyjamas.

All of Pickle’s products are made in the UK, with the brand working closely with talented British manufacturers across the country. Pickle also uses safe, water-based inks. Wholesale prices £7 to £17. www.pickle.co.uk

Roi and Cynthia Elco launched organic and Fairtrade children’s brand OceanBluu in April offering sleepwear and bedding. For a/w 20/21 the brand is expanding the collection to include childrenswear for 1 to 12 years. Moving away from fast fashion trends, it offers comfortable, everyday pieces in 100 per cent organic and Fairtrade certified cotton, including knitwear, trousers, tops and skirts. With sustainability being the brand’s top priority, it has a completely transparent supply chain, carbon-neutral shipping and plastic-free packaging. It also has a Give Back project that supports street children in India. Wholesale prices on request. www.oceanbluu.com DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 15

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PRODUCT

LAURA LOVES

GREAT PRETENDERS

AIDIE LONDON

SOPHIE ALLPORT

Fairy doll francois@creative-edu.com www.greatpretenders.ca

Baby moccasins seffie@aidielondon.com www.aidielondon.com

Elephant hot water bottle tradeorders@sophieallport.com www.sophieallport.com

CLOUD AND CUCKOO

ACORN & WILL

DONE BY DEER

Teething set cloudandcuckoo@gmail.com www.cloudandcuckoo.com

Dancing unicorn enamel pin daniella@acornandwill.co.uk www.acornandwill.co.uk

Sustainable bags gwen@donebydeer.com www.donebydeer.com

16 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

CWB-ONLINE.CO | TRADE SHOWS

EXHIBITION CALENDAR

CWB’s guide to the upcoming UK and international trade shows.

CBME Turkey Children Baby Maternity Expo 08-11 January 2020 | Istanbul CNR Expo Centre, Turkey www.cbmeturkey.com

Top Drawer S/S20 12-14 January 2020 | Olympia London www.topdrawer.co.uk

Pitti Bimbo 16-18 January 2020 | Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com

The Toy Fair 21-23 January 2020 | Olympia London www.toyfair.co.uk

FIMI 24-26 January 2020 | Avda de las Ferias s/n 46035, Valencia www.fimi.es

Playtime Paris 25-27 January 2020 | Parc Floral de Paris www.iloveplaytime.com

Ciff Youth 29-31 January 2020 | Bella Center, Copenhagen www.ciff.dk

Spring Fair 02-06 February 2020 | NEC, Birmingham www.springfair.com

INDX Kidswear

Playtime Shanghai

09-10 February 2020 | Cranmore Park, Solihull www.indxshow.co.uk

19-20 February 2020 | Expo-I Pavilion Shanghai www.iloveplaytime.com

Bubble at Pure London

Moda

09-11 February 2020 | Olympia London www.purelondon.com

23-25 February 2020 | NEC, Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk

Playtime New York

Chic International Fashion Fair

09-11 February 2020 | Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building, New York www.iloveplaytime.com

11-13 March 2020 | National Exhibition and Convention Centre Shanghai en.chiconline.com.cn

Children’s Club

Make it British Live

11-13 February 2020 | Jacob Javits Centre, New York www.childrensfashionevents.com

17-18 March 2020 | Business Design Centre, Islington, London www.makeitbritishlive.com

Sole Fashion

Harrogate International Nursery Fair

16-17 February 2020 | Ricoh Arena, Coventry www.solefashion.co.uk

29-31 March 2020 | Harrogate Convention Centre www.nurseryfair.com

All dates correct at the time of going to print.

Please contact show organisers directly for further details before making travel arrangements.

18 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

S/S 2020

12—14 January Olympia London

DESIGN

3 Sprouts

#livedesign

Grass & Air

Like you, we live and love design and that is why each season we search the globe to bring you PLAY, a unique edit of the latest designled kids’ products from leading brands and new names.

Ellie + Lion

SOURCE NEW. UNEARTH TRENDS. DISCOVER EMERGING TALENT. ACCESS GLOBAL BRANDS. BE INSPIRED. ENGAGE WITH EXPERTS. CREATE YOUR UNIQUE STORY. MAKE AN IMPACT. LIVE DESIGN.

T JOIN THE DESIGN TRIBE — topdrawer.co.uk/CWB

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

TOP DRAWER S/S20 Curated lifestyle show Top Drawer will return to Olympia London on 12-14 January 2020 bringing with it PLAY, its destination for all things kids, alongside a host of inspiring content and experiences.

ROBINSON AGENCY

As the first UK trade show of the year, Top Drawer S/S20 promises to bring a bold start to the new decade with a campaign and ethos that focuses on the very thing that connects its community. Titled Live Design, the campaign illustrates the elements that make the iconic show about so much more than just buying and selling, with it also being a place that stimulates the sharing of ideas and experiences.

For more than 30 years, Top Drawer has been the bi-annual meeting place for creative retailers, hospitality specialists and interior professionals who share a passion for design. It is the ultimate destination for product launches from the biggest names and to discover emerging talent, make meaningful connections and to gain inspiration.

Within PLAY, the show’s dedicated sector for all things kids, visitors will have the chance to explore a unique edit including textiles, clothing, toys and interiors to capture the imagination of both children and parents alike.

This season’s key signings include And The Little Dog Laughed, ChunkiChilli Knitwear, Djeco, Jellycat, Jura Toys, Kayla Kids, KITPAS, Little Concepts, Olly & Belle, Splatter Make, Threadbear Design, SC Brands and Wee Gallery by Five Minutes, to name just a few.

Keeping the needs of the industry at the heart of the show’s evolution, the considered expansion of its curated sectors and seminar

programmes - as well as the introduction of more networking opportunities over recent editions - have all enriched the Top Drawer experience, resulting in a deepening connection between buyers and suppliers. Across two stages, therefore, RetailFest and Design Talk will provide unmissable and original content specifically crafted to stimulate ideas and discussion, encourage growth, and to foster success from some of the best names in the business “Passion for design is at the very heart of our DNA and shared by everyone who is part of Top Drawer - from retailers, exhibitors and designers to our curators, speakers and organising team,” confirms show director, Alejandra Campos. “The 2020 Live Design campaign captures both the individuality and togetherness of this design community and celebrates its love and passion for innovation and creativity.

“As we open the international calendar, Top Drawer S/S20 is the destination for creative buyers to source the newest products from the very best design-led brands and new names - and to discover the latest trends and be inspired with our unique show content and features.”

Taking place from 12-14 January 2020 at Olympia London, Top Drawer S/S20 will showcase 1,500 brands, both established and brand new, across PLAY, Home, Gift, Greetings & Stationery, Fashion, Craft, Spotted | Pulse, Wellbeing and the Food Emporium.

RAINBOW DESIGNS

20 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

NEU OIL

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

KALOO

OLI & CAROL

INDIGO JAMM

KAYLA KIDS

BLING2O

TOP DRAWER • OLYMPIA LONDON WWW.TOPDRAWER.CO.UK

KITPAS

JELLYCAT

AND THE LITTLE DOG LAUGHED

FEARLESS FLAMINGO

1 TWO KIDS

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 21

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

PITTI BIMBO Leading kids’ fashion and lifestyle trade show, Pitti Bimbo, focuses on creative productions, special events, new brands and international collaborations for January 2020.

Pitti Bimbo is set to celebrate its 90th edition when it returns to Fortezza da Basso in Florence on 16-18 January 2020. For 45 years, the trade exhibition has been leading the kids’ fashion industry later expanding into both lifestyle and accessories – with its three-day events presenting an international overview ranging from designer labels to small, experimental brands.

Flags are the theme of this season’s show, seeing the fair draw an analogy between fashion and the mobile symbols of identity, belonging, thought and feeling that flags represent. A/w 20 will also play host to 543 collections, around 6,400 buyers and an estimated total of 10,000 visitors.

In terms of show sectors, the top floor of the Central Pavilion is now home to The Kid’s Lab!, which offers 3,000 sq. m of innovative venues including KidzFIZZ, EcoEthic, The Nest and Kid’s Evolution.

22 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

Featuring the most innovative and experimental brands, the KidzFIZZ line-up will include Christina Rohde, Dear Sophie, Miss L.Ray and Veja. Focusing on ethical production and sustainability, the EcoEthic area will play host to brands such as Faire Child, Kidiwi Handmade, Kidsbury, Mini-La-Mode, Mori and Toby Tiger. Offering micro brands selected by Little Pop Up, the Berlin store/concept lab, is The Nest. Amongst the line-up will be Mimookids, Tiny Tots Barcelona, Weekend House Kids and Wool in Love. Finally, Kid’s Evolution will present a selection of mini-me capsule collections from adult labels.

Inside the Central Pavilion, visitors will find Pitti Bimbo, the core section of the entire trade show. Dedicated to designer collections and iconic brands, exhibitors this edition include Dinoski, DKNY, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Miss Blumarine, Monnalisa, NONO, Petit Bateau, Sonia Rykiel Enfant, Sophia Webster and Yves Salomon Enfant.

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

Big names in sportswear and activewear will come together in the show’s Cavaniglia Pavilion. Here, the Sport Generation venue takes an in-depth look at leisurewear with brands such as Bikkembergs, Blauer, Emu Australia, Molo, Tommy Hilfiger and Woolrich Kid in attendance.

Meanwhile, Superstreet, with its focus on denim and junior and teen streetwear, will offer labels including Ai Riders, Eleven Paris, Guess Kids and Relish.

Elsewhere, Apartment will provide a sophisticated line-up of brands that will also be featured in a special runway show. Labels in this area will include Belle Enfant, Hucklebones, Jem + Bea, Jessie and James London, The Middle Daughter and Velveteen.

Beyond fashion, Pitti Bimbo will present the Fancy Room.

Embracing a world of design, furnishings and accessories, brands in this edit include A Little Lovely Company, Angel Dear, Blade & Rose, Done by Deer, Jellycat, Matchstick Monkey, Nibbling and PlanToys.

Event highlights this season include James Mollison’s Playground exhibition located within Sport Generation. Mollison, a British photographer who lives in Venice, will present landscape photographs of schoolyards from around the world, exploring some

of the complex dynamics around play and the environments that children learn.

Meanwhile, The Playful Living will present its vision of the concept store of the future with a multi-brand kids’ store designed to meet the needs of new generations and families. The famous One to Watch Awards conceived by kidswear blog Pirouette will also return, not to mention a host of runway shows, events, presentations, talks and cocktail parties.

Want to be better prepared for your visit to Pitti Bimbo this season? Registered buyers can now access all of the new e-Pitti online services via the show’s website and PITTISMART App. There, an exclusive preview will provide in-depth information about the brands and the product offering of each exhibitor.

PITTI BIMBO FORTEZZA DA BASSO, FLORENCE WWW.PITTIMMAGINE.COM

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 23

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

INDX KIDSWEAR INDX Kidswear, the UK’s largest childrenswear trade show, is gearing up for another record-breaking event in February 2020. Here’s what’s in store.

The upcoming edition of INDX Kidswear on 9-10 February 2020 builds upon another successful year for the trade show. The event’s June 2019 edition broke all previous records, seeing all four of the showrooms utilised for the first time at a spring/summer event.

Subsequently, this increase in showroom space has allowed for the brand offering to grow by 25 per cent, resulting in an 18 per cent increase in pre-show registrations and a 15 per cent increase in buyer attendance.

“Brand and buyer loyalty are just some of the many aspects of the event that we are very proud of,” says show organiser, Varsha Chohan. “The increase in buyer attendance and returning brands are a reflection of the success of our shows and therefore the importance START-RITE of INDX Kidswear in the trade show calendar.”

February 2020 will see over 90 per cent of the brands from June 2019 opting to return. As a result, the event has been a sell-out since August and has an extensive waiting list. Long term exhibitors and strong ambassadors for INDX Kidswear include Toby Tiger, Kissy Kissy, Kite, Dandelion Clothing, Mayoral and Blue Seven.

Alongside key returns, the February 2020 event will also host 40 new brands. Within the show’s growing boyswear offer will be Lyle & Scott, U.S. Polo Assn., Threadboys and MiTCH, which will join returning brands Jack & Jones and Hype. The footwear selection is being enhanced with the addition of Geox, Jex, Sass + Me and Start-Rite. Also new are girlswear brands Little A, Elle, NONO, Wish + Wonder, Lily & Grace and Marc Ellis alongside babywear brands Lily & Mortimer, P&C Piecci, Sofija and Angel Dear.

Returning this season after successful debuts include Cambrass, Lister & Bruce, Lola & Blake, The Middle Daughter, Billy Loves Audrey and Beatrice & Bee. The show’s popular christening and special occasion category also continues to be well represented, with returns including Caramelo Kids, Beau KiD, Sevva and Kidz Corner.

INDX Kidswear is also embracing the growing interest of consumers for more eco-friendly fashion. From fabric sourcing through to packaging and materials, brands at the show offering a more sustainable choice include Turtledove London, OceanBluu

SEVVA

and Kidsbury.

INDX Kidswear’s offer has always been a mix of UK and international brands. However, each event has seen the international buyer quota increase too. As word spreads of the show’s unique buyer and business focused approach and strong air and rail transport links, attendance from European buyers continues to grow. Recent events have attracted buyers from as far as Israel, Brazil, Australia, South Africa, Nigeria, Doha and Abu Dhabi.

INDX Kidswear’s opening times are 9am-6pm on Sunday 9 February and 9am-5pm on Monday 10 February. The show will also host informal drinks on 9 February.

TOBY TIGER

24 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

U.S. POLO ASSN.

MAYORAL

BRAND LIST A*Dee • Abel & Lula • Abuela Tata • Agatha Ruiz De La Prada • All About Emma • Amaya • Angel Dear • Angel’s Face • Annafie • Antonio Villini • Anya Rae • AppleCheeks • Artesania Chari • Artesania Granlei • artie • Azul De Colibri • Babidu • Babine • Baby Gi • Babybol • Balloon Chic • BamBam • Beatrice & Bee • Beau KiD • Bebe Bombom • Best Years • BIBS • Billy Loves Audrey • Blade & Rose • Blue Seven • Blues Babywear • Bonds • Bowtique London • Bright Bots • Bufi • Calamaro • Cambrass • Caramelo Kids • Carmen Vazquez • Ceyber • Chamomile Baby • Chipmunks Footwear • Claire Couture • Clemencita by Lucia Marth • Coco • Cocote • Condor • Cotton Boulevard • Country Kids • Crystal Dream • Daga • Dandelion • DOT • Dotty Dungarees • Didriksons • Dulce Nena • Early Steps • Elle • EMC • Emile et Rose • F&J of Knightsbridge • Flapjack Kids • Foque • Frugi • Gamcha • Geox • Grass & Air • Hatley • Hype • iDo • Jack & Jones • Jam Jam • Jammie Doodles • Jelly Bean London • Jex Shoes • Jose Varon • Juddlies • Juliana • KCL • Kidcentral • Kidiwi • Kidsbury Organics • Kissy Kissy • Kite Clothing • Kris x Kids • Lily & Grace • Lily & Mortimer • Lilly and Sid • Lister & Bruce • Little A • Little Darlings Ceremony • Little Giants • Little Green Radicals • Little Lord & Lady • Lola & Blake • Losan • Lulujo • Lyle & Scott • MadPax • Magnolia Baby • Mayoral • Mayoral Newborn • Mayoral Shoes • Marc Ellis • Me and Henry • Meduse Wellies • Meia Pata • Melia • Melton • Mini-laMode / Peter Rabbit & Friends • Mintini • Mitch and Son • MiTCH • Moonies • MP Denmark • Muddy Puddles • MuslinZ • My Little Chick • Newness • Nibbling • Nico Dingo • NONO • Noa by Azul de Colibri • Nursery Time • OceanBluu • One We Like • Oxford Shirt Co. • P & C Piecci • Patachou • Pebble • Pesci Baby • Pesci Kids • Peter Rabbit • Phi Clothing • Piccolo Speranza • Piccalilly • Pigeon • PLEASE • Poco Nido • Pom Pom Envy • Pompelo • Ponto Por Ponto • Powell Craft • Premier Designs • Pretty Originals • Pureté • Rachel Riley • Rahigo • Rapife • Ricittos • Rockahula Kids • Rocket & Rose • Russell Athletic • Ruth Lednik • Samli Collection • Sardon • Sass+Me • Satila • Sevva • Siena Hair Accessories • Sevva • Sheldon • Snuggle Baby • Sofija • Start-Rite • Steiff Clothing & Accessories • Sunrise Traders • Sweet Elegance • Tartaleta • the bonnie mob • The Little Sock Company • The Little Tailor • The Middle Daughter • Threadboys • Threadcare • Tia London • Tiny Baby • Tiny Tots • Toby Tiger • Turtledove London • Tutto Piccolo • Twinkledust • Under the Nile • U.S. Polo Assn. • Vignette • Visaki & Visari • Watch Me Grow • Wedoble • Weekend a La Mer • Wish+Wonder • Za Za Couture • Za Za Luxury • Ziggle • Zoocchini •

TURTLEDOVE LONDON

NONO

THREADBOYS

LILY & MORTIMER

INDX KIDSWEAR CRANMORE PARK CONFERENCE & EVENT CENTRE, SOLIHULL B90 4LF BUYERS ARE REQUIRED TO PRE-REGISTER ONLINE AT WWW.INDXSHOW.CO.UK/KIDSWEAR

WISH + WONDER

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 25

A BESPOKE TRADE SHOW FOR ALL INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

INDX KIDSWEAR AW20 9 – 10 FEBRUARY 2020

sales@finestforbaby.co.uk 01442 248099

INDX KIDSWEAR SHOWCASES AN UNRIVALLED SELECTION OF OVER 200 FASHION, ACCESSORIES, FOOTWEAR AND SPECIAL-OCCASION EXHIBITORS

Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull Call 0121 683 1415

Register now: www.indxshow.co.uk/kidswear

COLOUR TRENDS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

COLOUR MY WORLD Industry expert Fiona Coleman selects five important colour trends for a/w 20/21.

Fiona is a colour and trends consultant for brands and retailers working on bespoke projects.

She is a regular speaker at events and a member of the British Textile Colour Group. With extensive industry experience, she has headed up teams at WGSN, Paul Smith and Uniqlo.

Instagram @coleycolour

TURTLEDOVE LONDON

FRED’S WORLD

EARTHY NEUTRALS

LE MU

PIGEON

Sustainability drives our increased fascination with natural materials and dyes. This inspires a subtle range of calming, pink-hued earthy tones. Sand, blush, plaster and baked brown are used harmoniously for baby through to teen for both boys and girls. Softness also translates into the materials and silhouettes with layers of tulle, washed jersey, cosy knits, velvet and sanded cottons for outerwear.

DOTTY DUNGAREES

MINI A TURE

KELP GREENS

FRED’S WORLD

We continue to look to nature for colour inspiration. The layering of greens from ocean and land influences a palette of greens - samphire, kelp and moss - with a highlight of deep-sea blue. Wools and tech fabrics for cosy layering and outerwear help survive the temperamental elements, while prints are inspired by natural themes.

TOTEM

>>> DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 27

CWB-ONLINE.CO | COLOUR TRENDS

RASPBERRY REPUBLIC

BEATRICE & BEE

MUSLI

RUSTIC REDS As always, red is influential as a winter and Holiday statement. For a/w 20/21, we also see it as an integral part of a new ‘reddened’ tonal palette, including oranges and browns coming through from adult collections. Variations of red/browns and orange/ browns show a sophisticated use of colour, lending themselves to materials with surface interest such as silk and satin sheen, fake fur and corduroy pile.

NONO

FROSTED PASTELS There is a futuristic fluidity to colour and finish with shifting iridescent tones and barely-there pastel shades complementing tonal greys. New materials and experimental looks are featured for outerwear and partywear. There is also a focus on genderless fashion for future wardrobes, with simple prints and functional, technical aspects.

LE MU

MINI A TURE

TURTLEDOVE LONDON

BEATRICE & BEE

LE MU

KITE

WISH + WONDER

NEON SPLASH Super brights make a statement this season, with vibrating near-neon shades of fire red, shocking pink, bio-lime and ultraviolet. Casualwear, ski-wear and partywear are all catered for in an explosion of stripes, prints and colour block.

Accessories, winter knits and hosiery are key areas for experimental and bold colour combinations.

28 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

HOLLY HASTIE

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

OLD SOLES

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON Pure London’s vision for its Festival of Fashion continues for a/w 20 with the growth of kidswear section Bubble at Pure London.

Taking place at Olympia London on 9-11 February 2020 and catering for style-conscious parents and budding fashion lovers alike, Bubble at Pure London is set to offer everything buyers need in this growing fashion category.

The show’s curated selection of kids’ fashion will include mini-me dressing as well as kids’ accessories and maternity collections from brands such as Pipichu, Chatons de Bonbons, Old Soles, Teapot Performance, Imani Kids and Hearts & Roses London.

Amid the brand line-up, Pipichu will showcase a wide product range including sweaters, dresses, jackets and accessories. This Spanish childrenswear brand, which personally designs and makes each of its garments, is strong on ethics and keen to create a healthier planet. It also follows the philosophy of “buy less, choose better”, which is why its products are manufactured using the best European yarns to ensure they last as long as possible. All of Pipichu’s clothing is made using 100 per cent organic cotton or chemical-free materials and dyes.

The new a/w 20 collection from leading children’s footwear brand Old Soles will also be available at the show. When Old Soles launched in 2008, its philosophy was simple: style, comfort and protection for growing little feet and to let the children of the world play in style. Designed in Australia, the brand’s team uses its extensive fashion industry experience to draw the best of adult

OLD SOLES

PIPICHU

30 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

catwalks around the globe before translating these ideas into fashion for little feet.

Meanwhile, enhancing Bubble’s accessories offer this season is Chatons de Bonbons. Designed by French Pastry Chef Natasha Goellner, the line of children’s and adults’ jewellery is inspired by Goellner’s daughter Edelweiss and their favourite things; desserts, fashion and her cat, Feather.

For visitors seeking the mini-me look there is UK label Hearts & Roses London. The vintage-inspired womenswear and childrenswear brand specialises in floral prints and creating vintage focused pieces for the modern-day customer. Taking inspiration from style icons such as Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe, the brand concentrates on timeless styles from the 50s with a range including playful and elegant dresses, jumpsuits, playsuits, skirts, jackets and coats. Each piece is carefully designed by the brand’s in-house designer and manufactured by its own factory based in China.

Imani Kids will also be joining the trade show with its collection of childrenswear incorporating both edgy twists and timeless details. Catering to the fashion needs of boys and girls aged 0 to 12 years, the brand’s vast collection features fine quality fabrics.

For girls, it offers an outfit for every occasion; from playtime to special occasions. For boys, pieces are carefully tailored with fun and impeccable detailing.

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON OLYMPIA LONDON WWW.PURELONDON.COM

HEARTS & ROSES LONDON

CHATONS DE BONBONS

PIPICHU

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 31

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

CHIC CWB brings you everything you need to know about the upcoming March 2020 edition of CHIC, China’s leading fashion trade fair, which includes the childrenswear show CHIC-KIDZ.

The forthcoming edition of China’s most important fashion trade show, CHIC, will take place on 11-13 March 2020 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai. Hosted across more than 100,000 sq. m of space, the three-day fair will welcome in the region of 100,000 visitors. It will also play host to over 1,000 national and international exhibitors from all fashion segments, including multiple national pavilions from overseas.

CHIC is carefully edited into different exhibition segments to offer professional product classification and a dynamic business atmosphere. CHIC-KIDZ, the exhibition segment solely dedicated to children and kids’ fashion, will be presented as a show-in-show in Hall 2.1 connecting the North Entry Hall and Hall 1.1.

Covering all age groups from infants through to teenagers, CHIC-KIDZ gathers both national market leaders and international kidswear specialists. It then connects them with the relevant market contacts, from buyers through to distributors and agents.

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CHIC regularly welcomes national leaders in kidswear including Balabala (Semir Group), Mini Peace (Peacebird), Elephant, Eton Kidd, Hush Puppies, Water Baby and Xtep Kidz.

International kidswear brands such as Sanetta from Germany, as well as Kukukid and Efvva from Poland, have all used CHIC as their entry platform for the Chinese market. March 2020 will also see Fond of Bags return to present its children’s backpack brands Affenzahn and Ergobag. Meanwhile, German kids’ knitwear brand Maximo will present its hat collection for babies, children and teenagers.

Following the full implementation of China’s two-child policy in January 2016, there is now vast growth potential for the childrenswear market. In fact, childrenswear saw double-digit year-on-year sales growth in China in 2018, outperforming that of both womenswear and menswear. According to Euromonitor, in 2018 the sales of childrenswear in China increased by 16.2 per cent compared to the previous year, with further growth of 12.2 per cent

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anticipated for 2019. Subsequently, childrenswear is a thriving category for CHIC, with baby and toddler wear expected to be the main powerhouses for the sector.

CHIC March 2020 will be completed with a broad seminar programme encompassing the latest fashion trends in the Chinese market. It will also cover solutions to current business problems as well as providing all resources for exchange and business cooperation. Meanwhile, the event’s programme of runway shows will enable brands to showcase their offer to a broader audience.

Other highlights include CHIC Matching, the fair’s initiative to improve exhibitors’ participation via business matchings and networking events.

CHIC NATIONAL EXHIBITION AND CONVENTION CENTRE, SHANGHAI ENMAR.CHICFAIR.COM DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 33

©2019. All rights reserved Young Soles, Photography by Gemma Booth.

YOUNG SOLES will be at MODA 23 - 25 February 2020 at the NEC Birmingham.

Contact sales@youngsoles.co.uk for more information.

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

THE WORLD OF ELODIE Linda Sätterström, founder and creative director of Swedish baby brand Elodie, discusses the company’s latest developments including the opening of its first dedicated UK sales office.

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INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

Laura Turner: What sparked the idea for Elodie?

Linda Sätterström: I’ve always been a creative soul who sees new opportunities everywhere I go. When I became a mum, these ideas naturally started to circle around baby products. I guess it’s true to say that everything started shortly after my daughter Elodie was born. Becoming a mum and discovering this new world inspired me to launch the busines, so I named the company after my daughter. I started Elodie from my kitchen table in 2005 and today it is a global brand that sells in over 45 countries.

LT: In the early stages, what inspired the direction of the business?

LS: I am and have always been a hard worker. At the time I had my first daughter I was employed by the H&M buying office. I loved it, I got to travel a lot and had no real plans to give that career up.

However, being on maternity leave for a long time - as is the case in Sweden - my mind got restless. I remember thinking that all the baby products I saw on the market, to me, looked very dull and ugly. I wanted to make baby products into fashionable accessories. I felt the interests of the parent were overlooked, at least for someone as interested in design as I am. I decided to start making baby products that would fit into these stylish parents’ homes and it wasn’t long before I had my hands full designing and creating pacifier clips for myself and my friends. Since then, and to this day, Elodie’s vision is to make life with children even more beautiful.

LT: How has the brand evolved since then?

LS: First and foremost, it has gone from being just myself and my brother John working from home, to having 30 extremely talented employees in a beautiful office and a concept store here in the heart of Stockholm. Sometimes I pinch myself because I can’t believe it.

We have also added over 20 new product segments and sell in 45 markets.

A big milestone for the brand was when we introduced our popular Stockholm stroller – it’s fast become a very important product for us and our retailers. This coming year we will introduce our second stroller that we’ve been working on for over two years.

It’s a well-designed compact stroller that I really believe in. Strollers and stroller gear make up two of our four main categories, the other categories we create products for are baby accessories and the nursery.

LT: How would you sum up the style of the brand?

LS: Design is a central part of Elodie and we do everything in-house, from the storyboard to actual designs and patterns.

Sometimes we work digitally and sometimes we sketch by hand depending on the look we’re after. Another thing that differentiates us from other baby product companies is that we launch two larger collections each year, similar to how many fashion brands work.

With each new collection comes completely new and unique prints and colours. We always have the parent in mind when we design - I usually say that we have one foot in the baby world and the other in fashion.

Our most recognised designs are our pacifier clips, footmuffs and bibs. Today these product categories have many suppliers but unfortunately, we do see countless copies of our original designs on the market. We see fake copies of our seasonal prints as well, which is a problem, since customers may think they are getting a high quality, safety tested Elodie product but actually end up with something else.

LT: What can we expect from the a/w 20 collection?

LS: I can’t reveal any design details yet, but what I can say is that this collection will come with a statement that is very close to my

heart. The design and lifestyle material will stand out from everything that we’ve done before and appeal to parents who want to encourage a unique style and personality.

LT: What instigated the recent opening of your dedicated UK sales office?

LS: We have had interest from both consumers and retailers in the UK for a long time. We have waited until now to dedicate ourselves fully to the UK market as it is such an important one for us. We believe that now is the right time as the new Elodie logo and brand identity is such a great fit with the UK, embracing sustainability and all things Scandi. We now have the opportunity to replicate the success of Elodie in other European countries here in the UK. LT: How many UK accounts do you have?

LS: We currently have in the region of 35 stockists spread over traditional bricks and mortar retailers and ecommerce but obviously, that number is changing all the time. We have some really great stockists coming on board next year so watch this space.

LT: Where else is the brand available?

LS: We are present in 45 counties in selected stores and online retailers. We’re also on Amazon and sell through our own ecommerce site in 13 European countries.

LT: Can you tell me more about the brand’s sustainability practices?

LS: Gladly, this is a favourite topic of mine. At Elodie, we believe in the mission of slowing down consumption. We want to end low-quality products and fast-fashion trends and instead focus on upcycling. To us, upcycling means several things. Firstly, we need to provide high-quality products so that they are durable enough to be upcycled. Secondly, we need to design products to be multi-functional so that it is easy to find a new use for them once their initial purpose has been fulfilled. Thirdly, we’re working on more collaborations with premium second-hand outlets to encourage our customers to buy and sell their second-hand items.

When it comes to conscious production, we are continuously working on improving our own and our partners’ processes, choosing sustainable materials and production methods and making our transport as effective as possible. We have also partnered with the Swedish Textile Institute for Climate Action (STICA), where all the larger fashion brands in Sweden have come together to formulate concrete climate goals and actions in a joint effort to reduce our impact on the environment.

LT: What are your plans for the business?

LS: Long-term we aim to become the number one baby brand at the forefront of all parents’ minds around the world; parents who are looking for premium and well-designed products. Right now, we’re aiming to grow our brand awareness with the new logo in our already well-established markets in Europe. We also have our eyes on the Asian markets.

In terms of the collection, our signature product, the pacifier clip, will also continue to grow in volume. Other large categories we will focus on developing are our changing bags, footmuffs and strollers.

Alongside these plans, we will continue living our brand values: friendly, conscious, premium and well-designed.

www.elodiedetails.com DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 37

CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT

HOW TO MAXIMISE THE POWER OF PINTEREST Despite being one of the most underrated free marketing tools available, Pinterest has the potential to drive hundreds if not thousands of new customers to your website every single month if leveraged correctly. CWB speaks to award-winning Pinterest expert and e-course creator, Victoria Jackson, to discuss the power of the Pin and how retailers can successfully integrate the platform into their digital strategy.

With over 250 million users worldwide, Pinterest is no doubt already in your vocabulary. We know it as a great resource to find winter recipes, home décor tips and outfit ideas. A digital scrapbook if you like. But as a business, have you considered Pinterest in your marketing plan? Perhaps not.

Although Pinterest is still seen by many as a social media tool, it is, in fact, a visual search engine much like Google or Yahoo!, developed to help people solve a problem, to plan, be educated or inspired. It is designed for the user to create boards, share Pins and re-pin content.

Since its launch in 2010, there have been a staggering 175 billion pins shared worldwide, which means if used correctly, Pinterest has the potential to drive thousands of new visitors to your website – in turn, presenting the perfect opportunity to convert visitors into customers.

As we know, there is no linear path to achieving sales anymore, with shoppers being presented with more choices than ever before and retailers having to work even harder to generate leads. With 93 per cent of people on Pinterest being the decision-maker or willing to purchase there and now, it pays to be in the consumer’s eyeline before they have the chance to shop around.

“Who is using Pinterest?” you might ask. Although women were initially the biggest audience, the number of men using the platform is increasing rapidly, counting for more than 50 per cent of new sign-ups. According to Pinterest, 60 per cent of Pinterest households have children five years old or younger; 66 per cent of women between the ages of 25-54 are signed up and; 40 per cent have household incomes of more than 100k annually – as you can see, the spending power really is there to capture.

WE KNOW HOW PINTEREST WORKS FROM A SHOPPER’S ANGLE, BUT HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE IT AS A BUSINESS OWNER? In a very basic sense, you upload a piece of content, whether that be a picture of a product, an image that links to a blog post or an infographic, for example. This piece of content is then woven into Pinterest’s algorithm like it would be Google’s. Once visitors find your content they save it to their account, which is then saved by their followers, which is saved by their followers – the pin multiplies and so does your reach.

The beauty of Pinterest, however, is that unlike social media accounts such as Instagram, your follower count means very little.

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For instance, if you share a Pin on your account which has 10 followers and it is then saved by one of your followers to their 100-strong account, you’ve increased your potential reach tenfold – all with zero marketing spend.

BUT AS A RETAILER, HOW DO YOU UTILISE THIS TOOL? There are a number of ways to share your products on Pinterest.

The first would be to create a blog post on your website itself, something educational, inspiring or helpful. This could be a how-to

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TIPS & TRICKS TO INCREASE YOUR PINTEREST AUDIENCE post designed for your target customer such as How to Pack for Your First Summer Holiday with Children, or perhaps a list-style blog post such as 10 Traditional Christmas Eve Box Ideas, all featuring products you sell.

Once you’ve created this blog post, the next step is to design an eye-catching graphic to promote it on Pinterest. As Pinterest is a visual discovery tool, the idea is you upload a Pin that acts as a teaser to the blog post, which then links through to your website when people click on it. If the Pin is well designed, you’re more likely to attract people to click through and find out more. A great tool to do this on is Canva.com, which has free Pinterest templates available for you to use.

Another way to maximise your reach is to upload lifestyle images of your products, again linking directly back to your website. Anthropologie and Free People are just two examples of retailers that do this incredibly well, with Pinterest revealing that lifestyle and model images perform much better than cut-out product images shot on a white background. Could you perhaps dedicate a day to shoot new season stock in-store, providing ample content for you to use across all of your marketing and social media channels?

How about uploading a Pin for 8 of the Best Jumpers to Buy this Winter, linking directly back to your tops and jumpers category? Again, this can be done easily with an online creative tool such as Canva.com or Adobe Photoshop.

Once you’ve uploaded your chosen piece of content to Pinterest, the next step is to make it easy for potential customers to find you. How? By working in a similar way to Google and implementing SEO techniques in the description box Pinterest provides for you when you upload a Pin. Although jargon like SEO can feel unfamiliar and overwhelming, all it simply means is that you are placing words in the description box that your potential customer might search for to enable the algorithm to catalogue your Pin correctly and for the right visitor to be able to find you.

For example, if you created a Pin called How to Pack for Your First Summer Holiday with Children, your description may read like this:

1. Convert to a Pinterest Business account, giving you access to analytics and added promotional features.

For further information visit business.pinterest.com.

2. Set up Rich Pins on your Pinterest profile, which pulls through metadata from your website including sales, price of product, title and description when you Pin something directly from your site. There are a number of resources online explaining how to do this simple step.

3. Make sure your Pins are vertical and measure 600 x 900px.

4. Overlay text on an image for the most eye-catching Pins.

5. Use Pinterest frequently and consistently, with a mixture of sharing your own Pins and repining other people’s content.

6. Add an SEO-rich profile description to let shoppers know what they can expect from your profile. For example; “Organic childrenswear and home décor shop for the eco-conscious parent” is designed to attract your target customer.

“If you’re travelling with a toddler you might be wondering what to expect and more importantly what to pack. With this must-read blog post, we’re sharing the ultimate baby travel packing list, whether you’re travelling abroad or locally, as well as sharing what to pack in your carry-on when flying with a baby. Click through to discover more helpful hints and tips on what to pack for your first holiday with children.”

Can you see how we’ve integrated a number of SEO terms that potential readers might search for on Pinterest? A good tip here is to type your blog post idea into Pinterest and see how other posts are worded; like Google, the best-performing Pins are to the top of the page.

So now you have your graphic, you’ve written your keywordrich description to maximise your reach, and you’ve added your destination URL when visitors click through. The final step is to Pin to the right boards on your profile. To increase your visibility, it is recommended that you Pin to as many boards as possible. So, for example, you could create boards for Blog Content, New In-Store, Tips & Advice for Parents, Summer Holidays and Travel Ideas. The Pin mentioned above would fit perfectly in all of these.

Do this regularly with helpful content for your reader and you will soon see an increase in traffic to your website. All it takes is a Pin to go viral and you’ve welcomed a raft of new potential customers landing on your website – which is even better if you have some kind of mailing list prompt to capture their data as they land or go to exit.

Pinterest isn’t a quick-fix strategy, with pins often taking 3+ months to work their way into the algorithm, but the pay off lasts much longer than other marketing tools. Stay consistent, have fun and keep up to date with the Pinterest Business page (business. pinterest.com) for hints, tips and developments.

Victoria Jackson is a multi-award-winning Pinterest expert with 1.5 million monthly Pinterest profile views. After being shortlisted for a 2018 Pinterest Award, Victoria launched Pin to Win, an e-Book guide to help bloggers and business owners understand how to maximise the power of Pinterest. For further details visit: www.apartmentnumber4.com/pin-to-win-ebook.

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | PROFILE

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS CWB learns more about luxury children’s footwear brand Young Soles.

As Napoleon Bonaparte famously said, “if you want a thing done well, do it yourself ”. This was the mindset of designer Louise Shill on founding luxury children’s footwear brand Young Soles. Shill’s frustration when trying to find footwear she liked for her first daughter, Rosie, inspired her to design an alternative to the “sensible” and “glitter-covered” choices she faced. Instead, she developed children’s footwear to her own taste; cool, retro-inspired British classics with a modern twist.

Prior to launching Young Soles, seasoned footwear designer, Shill, had worked both in-house and as a freelance footwear designer across multiple brands and categories. Drawing on this varied experience she noted many of the constructions being used in children’s footwear design had not kept pace with the men’s and women’s footwear market. By applying her skills designing for adults whilst also taking inspiration from footwear she remembered from her own childhood, Shill began creating simple, British classic shoes for children.

Following a positive reaction to initial samples, Shill worked alongside her partner, whose background is in branding and marketing, to launch Young Soles’ debut collection at the Bubble London trade fair in 2014.

“We like to take contemporary adult styles and constructions, add our Young Soles retro-cool magic, and create the coolest footwear for kids,” says Stuart Anderson, Young Soles’ CEO. “Our 40 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

brand ethos is to inspire childhood memories, either through our footwear (‘I had a pair just like those when I was growing up!’) or through our photography and branding.”

When designing Young Soles’ collections, Shill draws heavily on nostalgia; whether that be her own childhood, a song or style movement, the memory of an old toy, or simply an old photograph found in the loft.

The s/s 20 collection, for instance, is inspired by a visit to grandma’s house. The collection embraces a vintage, mid-20th century colour palette of clementine, chestnut brown, mustard, ocean blue, pea green, smoky sage and, for the first time on a Young Soles shoe, a floral print.

“Inspiration for the s/s 20 collection came from a house we found hidden away on the Kent coast,” continues Anderson. “As well as retaining many of its original features – think wood panelling, an orange and brown colour scheme, large floral prints and chunky knit throws – it also had a beautiful garden looking out to the French coast that provided the perfect backdrop for our s/s 20 photoshoot.”

THE COLLECTION Young Soles’ offer has expanded considerably over the years and now comprises three main categories. Since launch it has produced the Classic collection, a range of core styles and colours that are

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consistently in-demand. These shoes, sandals and boots remain the brand’s bestsellers, regardless of season or territory, with new styles and colours introduced each season.

The seasonal collection does what it says on the tin; offering ranges for spring/summer and autumn/winter with styles and colours based on a creative theme for the season.

Finally, launching for s/s 20, is the new Vegan collection. Since its inception, Young Soles has received requests to create shoes, sandals and boots for vegetarian and vegan families. To meet this demand, it is producing a selection of its best-loved styles in animal-free materials. To support the Vegan collection’s launch in early 2020, Young Soles will also be introducing a dedicated vegan section to its website.

“One of our aims is not only to bring British heritage and contemporary styling to children’s footwear but also to offer a wide range of footwear to suit many occasions and requirements,” says Anderson. “Up until now, we have achieved this through different styles, colours and soles. However, last season we took the decision to take some of our most popular summer styles and make them using sustainable and recyclable materials. The plan now is to add one or two new vegan styles each season.”

Young Soles’ vegan footwear features state-of-the-art materials manufactured in Europe by Grupo Morón. Feedback to the Vegan collection has been very positive, particularly in European markets, where many of Young Soles’ larger European stockists have bought into the range.

availability.”

Buyers wishing to view Young Soles’ new a/w 20 collection can do so at Moda, which takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 23-25 February, and also at Gallery Shoes in Dusseldorf on 8-10 March.

Whilst we can’t give too much away, what we can tell you is that the a/w 20 collection will offer a continuation of developing key styles from a/w 19, including the brand’s popular wool-lined boots. There will also be more casual styles added to the rubber-soled collection.

With regard to the look and colour schemes, the brand is building on what has worked in the previous two seasons.

A BRAND WITH SOUL Young Soles has a strong and clear stance when it comes to sustainable business. One of its founding directors spent a considerable period of their career working with large corporations on their sustainability strategies and practices. Subsequently, sustainable thinking is well and truly ingrained in the brand’s DNA.

ALL ABOUT THE SOLE As well as three collections, Young Soles also offers five different sole types. EVA is the brand’s signature lightweight sole using a natural leather rand that is cemented to the sole for decoration purposes - as opposed to a true stitched welt construction. As well as being shock absorbent, the sole moulds to the shape of the foot meaning no need for orthopaedics.

There is also a hard-wearing and non-slip natural rubber sole that can be found on many of the brand’s sandals and stitch-down shoes. As the rubber soles are harder on the foot than the EVA styles, Young Soles uses a contoured, cushioned insole. This can, however, be removed should a child require a specialist orthopaedic insole.

For its top-end styles, the brand uses leather soles with a herringbone textured, anti-slip injected, rubber forepart insert and a rubber top piece. Meanwhile, sportier styles feature cupsole outsoles made from TR rubber. This sees the shoes benefit from a rubber bumper, which reduces wear on the leather in “high rub” areas. Finally, baby shoes incorporate a simple rubber sole, which is cemented to a suede leather base for grip and underfoot protection.

In terms of sizes, the majority of Young Soles’ footwear starts at a size EU 20 and finishes at a size EU 35. However, it does have smaller early walker shoes that start at a size EU17 and some of its styles run to a size EU 40.

WHOLESALE STRATEGY Although Young Soles has an online store, it only makes up a very small percentage of sales. The majority of the brand’s business is wholesale, which includes over 150 stockists in 25 countries worldwide and distributors in three major markets.

The brand’s biggest growth area at the moment is America, which it will be capitalising on with some interesting plans and developments over the next 12 months. The other area of immediate interest is the UK, as Anderson goes on to explain.

“Ironically, the UK is not a territory that we have spent much time on,” he says. “However, our brand seems to have grown to a point where we are being noticed by some interesting retailers and we hope to take advantage of this to grow recognition and

“We believe a sustainable business is one that operates in a sustainable way and obviously this covers environmental issues and labour practices, but also so much more,” says Anderson. “For instance, what is it doing to ensure that it has a positive impact guaranteeing its long-term existence and not just a short-term profit?

“We do what we can to ensure our business is having a positive impact on its environment - people, partners and the world. This includes internal working practices and sourcing sustainable and ethical materials through to sending our old samples to charities.”

SO, WHAT’S NEXT? Young Soles’ short- and long-term plans have always been the same; to keep creating the coolest footwear for kids that stays true to its brand ethos of inspiring childhood memories.

“The day we make a pair of shoes that we wouldn’t put on our own children is the day we know it is time to stop,” concludes Anderson. www.youngsoles.london DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 41

CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT

HOW PEER-TO-PEER REVIEWS CAN GROW A BRAND’S IMAGE Parents Insights examines the data collected as a result of surveying 2,500 parents over the preceding 12-weeks (Aug-Oct) to understand what they are currently consuming and what influences their decisions.

As we review the latest data and trend analyses from the team, we have taken a moment to reflect on shopping trends we have seen over the last few months and how the attitudes, consumption and behaviour of today’s parents have continued to change.

The research shows that 90 per cent of parents will share their experiences of brands and the products they consume, both online and offline. Brands need to acknowledge that growing accessibility to peer-to-peer reviews allows them to grow organically between potential customers, and could be deemed more trustworthy than sponsored content or reviews.

Parents under-25 are the most likely group to share good experiences on their own social media, which is the second most common method of sharing. This could have huge benefits for brands considering the reach of social media. Plus, the organic nature of posts could deem the reviews more trustworthy. Indeed, parents who share positive experiences on social media are 44 per cent more likely than average to say posts on social media also influence their own buying process.

However, parents over-25 are the most likely to share bad experiences, either leaving these reviews on the seller’s site or by speaking to a manager. The latter provides stores with the opportunity to turn-around the customer’s experience in-themoment, before the negative impression is spread further.

Additionally, reviews on the seller’s site are the second strongest influencing factor for parents of all ages, peaking at

67 per cent with parents aged 35 and over. This demonstrates the importance of a product’s image at the point of sale as well as why online retailers need to ensure the legitimacy of their user-written reviews.

Word of mouth and online reviews take the top two spots as influencing factors for parents.

Analysing our data, it is clear that when considered as a whole, parents are using a balance of traditional and online routes when looking to buy products. When we consider the shift across generations, however, there are some key considerations for brands forming mid-long term strategies of engagement with parents when it is clear the attitudes, behaviours and consumption of young parents are changing significantly.

This is a brief snapshot of our capabilities, but we are offering brands an immersive planning meeting to illustrate how data and insights can help inform advertising, content, licensing, product and marketing planning for 2020.

To download a complimentary Parents Insights report, visit www.parentsinsights.com/CWB. Alternatively to organise a meeting please call 0330 159 6631.

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Froddo UK & Ireland Distributor Kidsnewshoes.com Ltd. Hertfordshire UK Contact: Pauly Tong T: +44 1707 888388 M: +44 7796 766669 E: info@kidsnewshoes.com www.froddo.com www.kidsnewshoes.com

We are showing in:

MODA FOOTWEAR 23-25 February 2020 NEC Birmingham LONDON GATWICK SHOW 16-17 February 2020, Holiday Inn Gatwick IRELAND CORK 9-11 February 2020, Metropole Hotel Cork City

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PROFILE

THE NEXT CHAPTER FOR PICTURE BOOK FASHION CWB gets the latest on Picture Book Fashion’s expansion plans, which include a new website and two additional brands for 2020.

A*Dee’s determination to create a space for itself in the market, saw it rapidly gain a strong following of retailers and consumers. The success of A*Dee also led to the first expansion of Picture Book Fashion with the Molloy’s daughter, Layla, joining the design team resulting in the launch of boyswear label Mitch & Son in 2014.

Whilst the two brands grew and gained momentum, the company worked busily in the background creating a marketing support plan for its retailers. This encompassed POS materials, extensive image banks and marketing campaigns, all designed to continue driving demand for the collections. In essence, Picture Book Fashion listened to its retailers, watched how the market moved and adapted, and then tweaked its collections until the mix and size were just right.

MiTCH

Picture Book Fashion was founded in Glasgow in 2011 by Andrew and Michelle Molloy. The duo, previously childrenswear agents, were already well established in the industry and had the required contacts and sales experience. What they lacked at that stage was real knowledge of design, production or logistics. However, Andrew and Michelle took a leap of faith, launching their first brand, girlswear label A*Dee, in 2012.

For the Molloys, the positive response A*Dee received reinforced the potential of the brand. This support, combined with 44 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

THE BRANDS Picture Book Fashion describes A*Dee as a “luxury girls’ brand without the luxury price tag”. Sizes range from 2 to 12 years, although the collection will be available up to age 14 for s/s 20.

Launching four themes each season, A*Dee is all about creating entire looks. It uses strong colours and prints that work in harmony; from the key elements of the outfit all the way down to the coordinating accessories. Each theme stands on its own and offers a selection of outfits that are easily put together. Dresses, skirts, shorts, leggings and jackets can be matched with multiple accessories including socks, tights, hair clips, bags and shoes to create a complete look.

Meanwhile, the company’s boyswear brand Mitch & Son offers a cool and fresh look for ages six months up to six years.

(Initially, the collection only went up to three years, but based on retailer feedback it has since been extended.) As with A*Dee, Mitch & Son specialises in creating entire looks to enable consumers to buy outfits of multiple pieces. Offering three collections each season, Mitch & Son focuses on fresh, boy-friendly colours across outfits that are both comfortable and functional. Key pieces are jackets, tracksuits, chinos and polos, with accessories including socks and hat and scarf sets for winter. Footwear is also available.

Having dressed boys up to age six years since it launched Mitch & Son in 2014, Picture Book Fashion needed a solution to retain its loyal following. Now, with a new warehouse and additional staff in logistics, finance and marketing, s/s 20 will mark the launch of MiTCH, a new brand for older boys.

“As our customers’ boys started to grow out of Mitch & Son there became a demand for an older boys’ brand,” says company co-founder, Andrew Molloy. “After canvassing retailers for

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feedback, the answer came in the form of MiTCH.” MiTCH features a wide selection of clothes for active kids that still want to look fashionable. With a colour palette suitable for the 6 to 12-year age bracket, it includes tracksuits, shorts and tops, jackets and polo tops, which all work together in various combinations.

CHAMPIONING THE HIGH STREET “We have always been a supporter of the high street and independent stores,” continues Molloy.

Equally, Picture Book Fashion does not compete with its retailers by selling direct to consumer. Instead, the company places its brands in the high street and independent multi-brand stores. It also supports retailers with all of the tools they need to sell its collections to their full potential.

“Our marketing and POS are all about building the brands and driving consumers to the retailers to purchase them,” says Molloy. “We provide great tools for ecommerce including product and model shots, lifestyle images, video content and a full marketing and social media programme throughout the season. We also offer in-store display materials and gift with purchase promo items, all of which aim to build sell-through for the retailers.”

As well as supporting its stockists, Picture Book Fashion places great value on their feedback. A cornerstone of the company has always been to put into practice what the Molloys had learned after more than 20 years as agents. From the onset, therefore, they have prioritised visiting their retailers, taking on board both the positive comments and the grumbles. This feedback is then used to shape and enhance the business as Molloy explains.

“Nothing drives retailers crazy like deliveries,” he says. “Late deliveries, or worse, in dribs and drabs; tops with no bottoms or tops with matching bottoms five weeks later. At Picture Book Fashion we deliver very early and in complete themes. This means when the brands arrive, they can go straight onto the shop floor, complete and ready to sell.”

THE NEXT CHAPTER Amongst Picture Book Fashion’s recent developments was the launch of a new website in November, which brings all of the company’s brands together on one platform.

“A lot of people don’t know that Mitch & Son and A*Dee are related, so we wanted a central hub where everyone can learn about the amazing childrenswear we offer,” says Molloy. “We also wanted somewhere that we could talk about the history of Picture Book Fashion and where these brilliant brands come from. Being a family run business is something that a lot of people don’t know about us,

MITCH & SON

nor the fact that we are based in Glasgow, so this website is a place where we can let people find out all about us.”

A new website isn’t the only exciting venture for the business, it is also launching baby girls’ brand Little A for a/w 20. Although Little A links to the older girls’ label A*Dee, it is a standalone brand for newborn up to 36 months.

“After a lot of research and hard work we are so happy with the collection and think our customers will love it,” says Molloy. “Little A features a beautiful colour palette perfect for baby girls. It offers a range of outfits that have been carefully selected to ensure this new brand is just what new parents need when shopping for their little one.”

Buyers can view Picture Book Fashion’s brands at INDX Kidswear in Solihull on 9-10 February 2020. The company will also be participating in Mini Mode as part of London Fashion Week this season as well as children’s fashion and lifestyle show Sunday School, which takes place in Utrecht, Holland, in January.

With its new brands and an enhanced digital presence, 2020 is set to be an exciting year for Picture Book Fashion. Plans for the business now are to continue doing what it does best; supporting its customers and generating new ways to help them successfully sell its brands. Marketing support is one area in particular that the company has invested in, with a dedicated contact now available for retailers to speak to about marketing and selling the company’s collections.

Picture Book Fashion currently has around 100 stockists in the UK, with a growing number of accounts in Ireland, Holland and other parts of Europe. In time, the business wants to supply more customers throughout Europe, which is something it will continue to work on and develop in the long-term.

“It’s a really exciting time for us as,” concludes Molloy. “We are getting lots of interest, not only from the UK and Ireland but Europe too. The word is definitely getting out about Picture Book Fashion and our brands and stockists continue to grow.” www.picturebookfashion.com

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DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 45

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PROFILE | CWB-ONLINE.CO

SMALL BUT MIGHTY The Early Days brand of UK manufactured toddler and first walker shoes is steeped in history, but the company’s sights are set firmly on the future. CWB reports.

In recent years, infant shoe specialist Early Days has built a strong reputation as the brand of choice for the Royal children.

Unsurprisingly, the Royal connection has played a huge part in the company’s success and will continue to do so in the future.

However, despite the brand’s honour in having supplied not one, but multiple pairs of shoes to the Royals, the company’s directors and staff have had a lot to be proud of for some time now.

Early Days began back in 1952, established by brothers Tony and Michael Bolton. Tony and Michael were nephews of John Adams Bolton, who founded children’s garment manufacturer Chilprufe in 1906. When Chilprufe wanted a range of soft sole baby shoes to add to its offer, the two brothers stepped up to make them.

After a few years manufacturing for Chilprufe, the brothers began considering a brand of their own, leading to the creation of Baypods, which it supplied to babywear wholesalers. The success of Baypods led to the launch of the Early Days brand, which the company marketed directly to retailers.

THE MILESTONE YEARS During the 70s, 80s and 90s, Early Days supplied most of the high street chain stores. However, the 90s marked a shift in the market when more and more of those stores began looking to source footwear from cheaper overseas markets. Eventually, Early Days lost

the majority of its volume. At this point the decision was made to retain UK production by moving the product range upmarket with a new leather pre-walker collection. In hindsight, this was a great move for the company, with the leather pre-walkers going on to become the most successful range in the company’s 70-year history.

Sadly, the business went on to face an even bigger hurdle in June 2017, when its factory in Leicester suffered a large fire caused by a defective kettle. The destruction was considerable, with the factory losing most of its key machinery causing production to cease for almost six months – although it would have been much longer were it not for the efforts of the company’s staff and friends who helped clean up the damage and save some of the firm’s irreplaceable machinery.

UK MANUFACTURE Over the decades, this family-run UK manufacturing business, which today is headed up by Michael’s two sons Paul and Chris Bolton, has expanded considerably and now employs a number of skilled shoe operatives. Whilst Early Days is very fortunate to employ such a skilled UK workforce - many of whom have been with the company for over 30 years - it does have concerns about the growing skills shortage, with many of its current staff now in their 50s and 60s. Having said that, the business is reassured by the fact only one member of staff has retired in the last 20 years. >>> DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 47

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PROFILE

range. Equally, the Baypods pram shoe range has numerous bestselling styles and is also supplied from stock.

For the new season the brand is introducing additional colours as well as some animal print leathers. There will also be new bow designs and the introduction of a pom-pom trimmed range.

A DIGITAL UPGRADE Early Days is currently working hard to enhance its digital persona, starting with the launch of a new Early Days and Baypods website in January 2020. Replacing the former site will be a new, cleaner and user-friendly platform. The focus is on making the site more visually pleasing, including the use of lifestyle and stylised product imagery. It will also offer consumers some new styles as well as bestselling classics.

Simultaneously, the brand is exploring influencer marketing for the first time. Teaming with a select number of strong influencers, mainly UK based, the aim is to get in front of their highly interactive followers whilst also building a stronger social media presence. Helping the company in this department is Emily Beardsworth of May Creative Marketing. As well as creating the brand’s new photography over recent months, Beardsworth is the brand’s social media content creator and is leading the creative changes for the new website.

By continuing to manufacture in the UK, Early Days is able to supply its customers with quality assured shoes combined with short lead times and low minimum order quantities. ‘Made in the UK’ has also become a major marketing tool for the business, with many buyers now looking for quality rather than cheaper prices.

Ironically, Early Days’ biggest overseas market is China, with the company witnessing staggering sales growth as Chinese consumers increasingly seek to buy UK manufactured products.

THE COLLECTION The Early Days range comprises of pram shoes, ceremonial shoes, sandals, pre-walkers and first walkers. Ranges are based on classic styling with foot comfort being the main criteria in the shoes’ design. White, blues and pinks have always been the brand’s most popular colours, although in recent years the colour range has been greatly extended to include more fashion options.

In terms of bestsellers, the Alex classic T-bar and Emma bar shoe are the company’s top-selling styles in the leather pre-walker 48 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

NEXT STEPS Early Days is currently working on the continued development of the Chinese and other overseas markets as well as further extending its range. During 2020, subject to finding more skilled staff, the company also plans to increase production. Once this is achieved, it will be able to target other overseas markets that up until now it has been unable to explore due to limited production capacity.

Longer-term, the business wants to continue manufacturing in the UK for at least the next 10 years. There is no question that the company holds its title of UK manufacturer in great esteem and subsequently, it will do everything it can to expand UK production wherever possible. However, if the skills shortage in the UK continues, the firm could potentially move some of the pre-walker business over to Spain where it already works with some top Spanish factories for larger sizes.

Nevertheless, one thing is for sure, with Early Days’ latest developments in play, the company is well placed to add another successful decade to its history.

www.earlydays.ltd.uk

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CHILDRENSWEAR MARKET TRENDS What are the main trends impacting on the childrenswear market? From the macro to the micro and from social and economic factors to new fashion tastes and innovations, Helen Mitchell, group head of client services at Istoria Group, reveals the six trends you need to be aware of right now.

JUST WHO IS THE MODERN FAMILY? The modern family is changing, meaning customers purchasing childrenswear are changing too. Brands need to adapt to this radical shift by addressing new audiences including same-sex and non-binary parents as well as elective co-parents, where nonromantic partners team up to have children. The Stork agency launched in the UK in 2016 to cater exactly for this growing matchmaking demand.

Meanwhile, the trend towards multigenerational and shared households also gathers pace. In the UK, by 2025, it’s estimated that 2.2 million people will be living in multi-gen households – an increase of 47 per cent from 2015 (Aviva, 2016). Made up of siblings, friends, aunts and uncles, cousins, godchildren and tenants, this new kind of shared household is rarely catered for by brands, services and retailers.

Grandparents are also playing an increasingly major role in child-rearing; something children’s book publishers have been quick to reflect. For example, this autumn saw the release of Paul McCartney’s book ‘Hey Grandude’, which is aimed at a market of evergroovier grandparents. In my own household, to save on complex transportation, many items are duplicated across two homes, from cots and high-chairs to car seats and clothing.

Grandparents need simple, non-bulky, storable items and easy-change clothes.

Where are the grandparent-bundles catering to this market?

WIDENING INCLUSIVITY DEFINITIONS I’m often struck by the sea of femininity that greets me in childrenswear retail, from colour to imagery across merchandising and packaging. There’s still very little signposting for men. Being inclusive isn’t just about gender of course. Parents come from a wide variety of different nations and religions, though many stores still push Easter and Christmas as the only celebrations that count.

Last year, for the first time, London shopping centre Westfield London celebrated the end of Ramadan (Eid-al-Fitr) with a dedicated shopping festival, whilst in 2017, John Lewis hosted a Manchester pop-up store operated by Muslim women offering 50 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

calligraphy services to celebrate Ramadam. Let’s not forget secular demographics and celebrations too, such as Friendsgiving, Pride or Singles’ Day. Another sector the mainstream is also waking up to is children with disabilities. Marks & Spencer’s new Easy Dressing range caters to children with sensory and physical disabilities via soft fabrics and flat-lock seams, popper and Velcro fastenings, plus pockets and extra fabric to accommodate casts and feeding tubes. The collection is affordable and matches designs from the main kidswear collection. Equally, American shopping and lifestyle platform Wolf + Friends features curated web links of retailers offering need-appropriate, aesthetically-appealing products suitable for autistic and other special-needs children - a welcome antidote to dour therapy websites. Mike Adams, chief executive of UK company Purple, which works to “unleash the purple pound”, argues that disabled customers need overdue recognition on retailers’ agendas.

GETTING IN ON THE RENTAL MARKET The rental market phenomenon is set to grow exponentially. ThredUp estimates that sales of second-hand goods will double in the next five years, yet most established consumer businesses still underestimate the lucrative opportunities this represents, perceiving the trend more as a threat.

A targeted approach is key. Why not create spaces and opportunities to swap and resell old products, engendering engagement from millennial thrifting HELEN MITCHELL fans as well as potentially stealing the lead from more generalist sites and swishing events? Rare or short-use items such as nursery hardware and layettes, special occasionwear, bulky cold-weather and destination-wear are all prime targets.

Mamas & Papas includes in-store Community Walls advising on product aftercare, reuse and recycling and also sells reconditioned products on its website. Pushchairs come in New, Loved or Well-Loved grades, with a manufacturing guarantee of up to two years. Unwanted prams can also be traded in for vouchers.

Subscription services are another rental phenomenon. Danish brand Vigga allows new parents the convenience of changing

REPORT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

NOT JUST A PRINCESS

clothing as their child grows. A bag of unisex organic cotton clothing is exchanged for the next size up at regular intervals, with the brand handling all deliveries and returns.

RE-THINKING SUSTAINABILITY Many aspects of fashion now come under the sustainability umbrella, from fabric provenance and working conditions to re-cycling and long-term product futures. Consumers really care – and retailers need to reflect that.

The ‘right to repair’ is a step in the right direction – and it’s monetisable. British mid-market fashion brand Toast, for example, hosted sell-out Sashiko Repair workshops, where customers are taught the Japanese art of sashiko stitch - a mending method bringing a new lease of life to cherished garments.

Australia and New Zealand, however, are currently packleaders when it comes to sustainable baby clothing brands, serving their more eco-conscious consumer base through smartly-sourced fabrications and ethical codes. Auckland’s Nature Baby specialises in neutral-toned organic babywear using GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified cotton or organic merino wool, whilst its in-house blog reads like a sustainability guidebook. Smart new maternitywear brands are also creating products for both pre- and post-pregnancy in the face of falling dedicated maternitywear sales.

Genuine recycling remains a logistical challenge meanwhile, but innovations are coming. Belgian start-up Resortecs has developed Smart Stitch, an industrial sewing thread that dissolves at 266°C, causing zips and buttons to detach and seams to dissolve rendering fabrics ready for reuse. Outdated cleaning habits are another focus area, particularly when it comes to over-washing.

Accessible guides and collaborations with washing machine manufacturers can help reduce waste while boosting brand authority.

THE LUXE FIX A world away from thrifting, the boom in luxury childrenswear continues. The industry is generally buoyant and is set to grow at a CAGR of 6 per cent by 2021 (Euromonitor, 2017), with the Asia Pacific market forecast to reach €65.1bn by 2020 (BoF, 2016).

There’s an even more exponential growth trajectory predicted for luxury apparel. From mini-me streetwear looks through to destination-wear, it’s all about kids reflecting parents’ visual preferences and lifestyle aspirations - a real shift away from the former practical focus.

The huge power that influencers have over millennial purchasing patterns also extends to kidswear, with everyone from royal offspring to the mini-Beckhams, Carters and West-

MARKS & SPENCER’S EASY DRESSING

Karshadians becoming global fashion icons.

Other key trends in this market right now include maximalist styling – clashing colour, print and pattern, offbeat retro mixes and random thematic references – and the tiny traditionalists, including brands such as Paris-based Bonpoint, London-based Caramel and Baby Dior.

Luxury vacation-wear is also booming, from swim and beach lifestyle to ski-ready outerwear, which is also being worn in urban environments as a lifestyle statement. Instagram is key here. How could it impact your business? Whilst scaled-down streetwear looks are all the rage, you still need to adhere to the rules of engagement: regular product drops, hard-to-get limited editions and open-source collaborations.

MEET GENERATION ALPHA Not anxious like Gen X or cosseted like millennials, today’s children are dynamic, creative and inclusive. They’re rejecting problematic playthings, narratives and clothing in favour of a more diverse and inclusive future. If Gen Z (aged nine to 23 years) were the first true digital natives, Gen Alpha are the first AI natives, with AI becoming more deeply integrated into toys. US robotics start-up Anki’s emotive bot Cozmo, for example, was the bestselling toy on Amazon US in 2016 and 2017 (One Click Retail, 2018). Lego, meanwhile, is bringing coding into the nursery with Coding Express, a train set aimed at 3 to 4-year-olds.

Gender neutrality is a key focus area for clothing. In the US, 20 per cent of parents with children under-12 years support gender-neutral clothing for kids, rising to 24 per cent among parents under 30, and 25 per cent for urban parents (Mintel, 2017).

Not Just a Princess was launched after the founder became dissatisfied with the gender roles being presented to her daughter, launching a line of T-shirts that do away with the ‘princess’ persona and replacing it with careers such as a doctor, pilot or soldier. UK blogger Erica Davies, meanwhile, launched her #BetterBoysWear hashtag after becoming frustrated with the uninspiring range of clothing on offer for her son. Hundreds of parents shared their complaints about the choice of boring or franchise-branded clothing for boys via her Insta-campaign, highlighting a real gap in the market.

Istoria Group is a collective of creative agencies and includes retail designers Phoenix Wharf, exhibition, experience and event designers Ignition and creative communications agency Caroline. For further information visit www.istoriagroup.com.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 51

AUTUMN - WINTER 2020

For more information email: e p e re z @ g r u p o t u t t o p i cco lo . co m

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

54: NEWS 57: SA AWARDS 2019 – THE RESULTS The winners, finalists and high commended in this year’s SA Awards

60: USING TWITTER TO BUILD YOUR SCHOOLWEAR BUSINESS Top tips from social media and online marketing expert Alex McCann 62: HOW TO MAKE YOUR STORE MORE AUTISMFRIENDLY Advice on making your store more inclusive

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 53

CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS The latest news from the schoolwear industry.

STEVENSONS STAYS NEUTRAL IN GENDER DEBATE

MUDDY PUDDLES PARTNERS WITH FSA Children’s outerwear brand Muddy Puddles has confirmed an exclusive brand partnership with the Forest School Association (FSA), further enhancing its commitment to championing outdoor play and learning.

Muddy Puddles and the FSA share a common goal; promoting the importance of play-based learning in the natural environment for pre-school, early years and beyond.

Commenting is Natasha Ascott, MD at Muddy Puddles. “The FSA is greatly respected with a strong position in the UK. We are thrilled and honoured to have been selected as a preferred partner, further establishing our position in the children’s outerwear market with an organisation that shares our brand values and ethos on ensuring children learn through outdoor play.”

Forest School has seen massive growth in the UK over the past five years, with an increasing number of schools and parents now embracing this form of education. As part of the exclusive partnership, FSA members will benefit from an additional discount on purchases made with Muddy Puddles.

NEWS IN BRIEF Following its Schoolwear Show debut in October, children’s footwear brand Froddo has introduced a brand-new Back to School 2020 collection. For younger girls, there is a new lightweight T bar with rubber front protection and a Velcro strap in sizes 25 to 39. There is also an older girls’ T bar style featuring a Velcro strap and rugged outsole in sizes 31 to 40. For boys, there is a new range of barefoot shoes and boots. Available in sizes 25 to 40, key features include rubber front protection and double Velcro fastenings.

54 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

Stevensons, the UK’s largest independent schoolwear retailer, is making changes to its product ranges and packaging to support schools looking for gender-neutral uniform options.

The business, which has been supplying school uniforms since 1925, is making a number of alterations in-store as well as introducing terminology differences online.

“We work closely with all the 500 plus schools we partner with,” says Mark Stevenson, joint MD at Stevensons. “Recently, a small number have expressed interest in providing a range of uniform options that support their goal of achieving gender neutrality within their own school, which we are happy to work to support.”

SCHOOLS AND RETAILERS LINK UP FOR UNIFORM ‘GIVEAWAY’ CAMPAIGN

The Schoolwear Association (SA) is working to make membership more manageable and affordable by offering the opportunity for members to pay quarterly by Direct Debit. In 2020, exclusively for SA members and courtesy of The Schoolwear Show Ltd., membership will now also include a free subscription to CWB magazine.

Furthermore, in preparation for the general election result, the SA is using lobbying company WA Comms to ensure its collective voices are focused correctly. To secure this expertise, the SA has a Clear & Present Danger Fund to support a comprehensive strategy of meetings, contacts and lobbying. The Fund has already received over £30,000 in donations, however, the SA estimates around £100,000 will be required before next Back to School. If you would like to support the fund, please contact info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk.

Two local schools recently received a dozen rucksacks full of schoolwear, which will be given to the parents of pupils who may be struggling financially to cover the costs of a new uniform.

West Midlands-based schoolwear supplier Clive Mark donated the garments to Lordswood Boys’ School and Central Academy in Birmingham, with tie and bag manufacturer William Turner donating the rucksacks themselves. The two schools can now provide parents they identify as being most in need of support with full school uniform items including jumpers, trousers, shirts and blazers.

The donation is part of a campaign from The Schoolwear Association (SA) that urges uniform suppliers and retailers to donate what they can to local schools in their communities.

“We are excited to launch this campaign; it is something we have wanted to do for a while,” says SA chairman, David Burgess. “The Association recently launched its ‘every child is worth it’ campaign and knows that every child should be clothed in durable, high quality and presentable school uniform to help them get the most from their education. All of our members are passionate about school uniform and allowing children to get the most from their education, which is why this campaign is so important to us.”

Jim McNicholas, MD of uniform supplier Clive Mark, adds: “Parents often aren’t aware of the offers and schemes in place with many specialist uniform retailers to help provide an affordable quality uniform for their children. It’s great to be a part of a campaign that will give struggling parents one less thing to worry about and to enable their children to get more enjoyment out of their time at school.”

This year’s Anti-Bullying Week on 11-15 November saw the Anti-Bullying Alliance publish the Change Starts with Us report with recommendations for young people, schools, government, tech companies, influencers, media, parents and carers as well as evidence of what works to address bullying, both face-to-face and online.

The Anti-Bullying Alliance also published the results of a survey of over 1,000 11 to 16-year-olds which revealed the scale of the problem, including nearly one child in every classroom encountering bullying every day.

Rowlinson Knitwear is investing in a photovoltaic (PV) solar scheme for its Stockport head office. By adopting the PV system, over the course of a 12-month period, Rowlinson can generate more electricity than it uses. The investment will also see the company save approximately £9,000 and 10.8 tons of CO2 annually, with Rowlinson’s excess electricity going back into the National Grid. Investment in solar energy is one example of the immediate steps the firm is taking as part of its commitment to people and planet.

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SA AWARDS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

SA AWARDS 2019 – THE RESULTS CWB presents the winners, finalists and highly commended in the SA Awards 2019 hosted by the representative body of the industry, The Schoolwear Association.

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SPECIALIST 2019 – (LESS THAN 10 FULL-TIME STAFF) – SPONSORED BY BANNER Petites Modes - Winner In 2015, Jane Bancroft and her daughter Rachel Cookson took over Petites Modes, which has been established in Sale, Greater Manchester, for over 60 years. The duo has breathed new life into the business through a combination of acquiring new schools, offering diversified product including dancewear and communionwear, introducing digital and social media and focusing on customer service. The result is a business enjoying rapid growth and an impressive increase in turnover.

Total Clothing - Finalist Total Clothing has been successfully providing uniforms for 30 years. As well as a 12,000 sq. ft purpose-built shop, storage and production facility in Peterborough, the business runs 120 school online shops and numerous pop-up shops. New forward-thinking initiatives include hosting swapping events for ‘grown out of uniforms’ at its premises.

Smarty Schoolwear - Highly Commended • Oz Schoolwear - Highly Commended BEST SCHOOLWEAR SPECIALIST 2019 – (MORE THAN 10 FULL-TIME STAFF) – SPONSORED BY TRUTEX Whittakers Schoolwear - Winner Established in Blackburn in 1925, D Whittaker & Co Ltd was acquired by the Hutchinson family in 2008 and developed into a schoolwear specialist. The business has since grown to eight branches, while increased online shop presence now provides a full nationwide service. Recognised as an autism-friendly specialist, Whittakers has a full refurbishment programme in place for all new stores to ensure it provides families with modern, bright and welcoming retail environments.

Fosters Schoolwear - Finalist Fosters Schoolwear continues to show consistent growth, with its sales increasing by 10 per cent in the last year alone. This year it has taken on eight new schools and it is currently in advanced talks with a further 14. To help support growth, Fosters is planning substantial IT investment, including a new computer system to streamline its processes.

Crested School Wear - Highly Commended BEST SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIER 2019 – SPONSORED BY CARDINAL MARITIME GROUP Rowlinson Knitwear - Winner Since 2010, employee-owned Rowlinson Knitwear has consistently improved its financial performance and customer satisfaction whilst maintaining an ethical approach to business. Recent developments for the Living Wage employer include the 2018 launch of a new stocked specials service. It also has a comprehensive Modern Day Slavery Statement acknowledged by the ETI. Following investment in its new offices and warehouse, the firm is now working to become a Certified B Corporation.

Falcon Sportswear - Finalist Falcon Sportswear has traded in the UK and abroad since 1974. Having always worked with a high degree of fairness and professionalism, Falcon demands the same from all of its suppliers and insists that within each country all of the national and international laws of employment are adhered to. Falcon is entirely dedicated to its retail customers, focusing on price, quality, delivery and service.

>>>

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020 - 57

CWB-ONLINE.CO | SA AWARDS

BEST DIGITAL SCHOOLWEAR 2019 – SPONSORED BY WILLIAM TURNER Grays Schoolwear - Winner Recent developments to Grays Schoolwear’s digital presence include a new website, updated Epos systems, increased social media and a new blog. The new website, which has led to a x2.5 revenue increase in online sales, is fully mobile compatible. Grays has also introduced iZettle, a new mobile Epos system for events, and is working with payment provider Klarna to offer ‘pay later’ transactions, making it the first schoolwear retailer to offer the service.

Uniform4Kids - Finalist Uniform 4 Kids has introduced a new website as well as social media accounts on Twitter and Facebook. Since relaunching its website in March, the retailer now offers a user-friendly, responsive system with clear and concise imagery and product detail. Other key features include an online booking system.

BEST COMMUNITY PARTNER 2019 – SPONSORED BY ROWLINSON KNITWEAR Whittakers Schoolwear - Winner As part of its business model, Whittakers takes great pride in enhancing its local community relationships. Examples include participation in the Race for Life and Sports Relief, running a MacMillan coffee morning, supporting local cancer charities and doing a Santa Dash for a local hospice. Whittakers also donates unwanted and surplus uniform to locally-based organisations and contributes to a charity organised

by Merseyside Police that supports families in hardship.

Smarty Schoolwear - Finalist Smarty Schoolwear is working hard to change perceptions within the local community that ‘businesses are only here to make money’. It helps reinforce this by supporting both local and international charities. It also offers numerous payment plans for uniform to help parents with costs and provides various forms of funding to schools.

OUTSTANDING SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR 2019 Swarn Dulkoan, Diamond Textiles – Winner Swarn Dulkoan achieved a degree before emigrating from India to the UK in 1976 and securing a job in pattern making and cutting for a company that manufactured school garments. In 1984, he set up his first textile company as a partnership specialising in school fleecewear and jersey knitted fabrics. By 1994, Diamond Textile was established.

From his first job pattern cutting, Dulkoan has established and built Diamond Textiles to become a leading schoolwear business.

Joanne Grayer, UniformWise - Highly Commended Joanne Grayer, manager of UniformWise, had always wanted to run her own schoolwear shop. In 2017 that dream became reality and since then she has dedicated her life to the business and its local community. Trading for just two years, UniformWise now has 18 schools under its belt, with Grayer’s and the team’s commitment reflected in the business’s positive reviews and feedback.

SUSTAINABILITY IN SCHOOLWEAR AWARD 2019 – SPONSORED BY STEVENSONS David Luke - Winner David Luke, which is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its Eco Uniform, is a pioneer in terms of sustainability in schoolwear. One man’s ambition to find a more sustainable material for school uniforms has since become a blueprint for the wider schoolwear industry. To date, David Luke has prevented 27 million plastic bottles from reaching landfill, while its Eco-uniform range has expended from the original Eco Blazer, now SCS accredited, to include trousers, skirts and jumpers.

Trutex - Finalist A carbon-neutral organisation for the last six years, Trutex incorporates energy saving, reducing waste and recycling. It also focuses on creating schoolwear that benefits both people and planet with its Re-vive blazers, trousers and skirts made using polyester from 100 per cent recyclable plastic bottles. Trutex is also well known for its antibullying campaign and partnership with The Diana Award charity.

National Weaving - Highly Commended 58 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

Trutex are committed to reducing our impact on the planet and improving the lives of the people who manufacture and wear our uniform.

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CONTACT YOUR ACCOUNT MANAGER OR TRUTEX TO FIND OUT MORE...

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HOW TO USE TWITTER TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS Alex McCann, a long-standing social media and online marketing expert and founder of the social media marketing firm, Altrincham HQ, shares his top tips on using Twitter for business.

WHY TWITTER? When you think of Twitter, what do you think? Trump, trolling and the media? It might be enough to put you off for life when you hear those three things, but it’s worth bearing in mind that if the President of the United States uses Twitter to communicate with the world, then maybe it’s worth looking at. Compared to Facebook or Instagram, Twitter is a smaller platform with around 330 million monthly active users. However, what you get with Twitter is the ability to reach outside of your audience and access people who aren’t aware of your company. As you’ll read later, Twitter’s search functionality also surpasses every single social media platform out there and presents opportunities to grow your business.

What can you do to make the most of Twitter for your business?

Due to its fast-paced nature, Twitter is not like other platforms.

The prime lifespan of a tweet (i.e. when people are going to interact with a post) is just 18 minutes, so don’t approach Twitter like Facebook or Instagram where once you post you get a steady stream of likes and comments. If you expect Twitter to be exactly like other platforms, you’ll leave disappointed.

HERE’S HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF TWITTER SCHEDULING You just heard how Twitter is ‘noisier’ than other social media platforms. It’s therefore acceptable to post more often, as a tweet only last 18 minutes. Whereas on Facebook and Instagram I might post once or twice a day, on Twitter I post eight to 10 times a day. Now, don’t get me wrong, it’s not eight to 10 adverts or hard sales posts a day. It’s usually a maximum of one sales post a day and then thoughts, ideas, blog links, comments on breaking news and so on. The key, however, is to educate or entertain. Just because you can post more often doesn’t mean you should not think about the quality of what you’re posting about.

Tweets only get noticed if they’re interesting enough to break through the noise. Whilst I work in social media and post often, you could half the amount you post and still be successful on Twitter. To enable you to post frequently, it’s advisable you use a social media scheduling tool like Hootsuite, Buffer or Social Sprout CONVERSATION Imagine that Twitter is a worldwide networking group. You’ve just learned that broadcasting is part of Twitter - that’s like the introduction round at a face-to-face networking event. But as you know from networking, where it really works is the one-to-one conversations and getting to know people. The secret sauce of Twitter is conversations with other Twitter users; be that customers, potential customers, referrers, people in your industry and so on. So, whereas yes, you can schedule a number of updates a day, what you really need to be doing on Twitter is talking to people. For every broadcast Tweet you put out there, aim to reply to around four times that amount.

Also, be consistent, talk to the right people every single day and you will get results from Twitter.

60 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

TRENDJACKING Twitter’s own tagline is “It’s what’s happening - see what’s happening in the world right now”. ‘Trendjacking’ is the method of jumping on something that people are talking about to raise awareness of your business.

There are several questions to ask with trendjacking: • Does it fit with your business?

• Does your audience relate to it?

• How do you stand out amongst the huge volume of Tweets on the subject?

If you can tick all these boxes, talking about and producing content around things that are popular are good ways to gain attention. Do note that trending subjects can come and go within hours, so the immediacy of content is very important on this. It’s not something that you can use as inspiration for a post five days later.

RICH MEDIA When Twitter first started over a decade ago it was text-only and for many, it’s not shaken off that perception.

Businesses don’t often think of Twitter as a visual platform and yet Tweets with images generate twice the level of engagement as tweets without an image. With photos and videos, Twitter is a rich media platform and you need to take the same care and attention for Twitter visuals as you do for any other platform.

TWITTER SEARCH Imagine for a second that you search for every mention of school, education or school uniform within a 20km radius of your nearest city. Imagine then that you responded to each and every Tweet about that every single day. Then imagine because of that, every time people thought of schoolwear, they thought of your business. Well, with advanced Twitter search or setting op location/keyword searches on Tweetdeck, you can do exactly that. We use these tools every single day and it brings us new followers and new business every day as a result. Be known for being an expert in your field.

ABOUT ALTRINCHAM HQ Alex McCann is the owner of the social media marketing company Altrincham HQ. With over 14 years’ experience of social media and 20 years’ experience of online marketing in other companies, clients come to McCann when they want a veteran rather than a rookie. At Altrincham HQ, McCann works with businesses to make more of their social media marketing, delivering results via social media training or management packages.

Voted the Best Social Media Company in Manchester at the Talk Of Manchester Awards, Altrincham HQ has helped thousands of businesses and individuals across the North West including BBC, Manchester City, Manchester Arndale, Selfridges, NHS, University Of Manchester and many more.

For further information on Altrincham HQ’s services and training visit www.altrinchamhq.co.uk or call Alex on 07806 774279.

Follow Altrincham HQ on Twitter at @altrinchamhq.

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HOW TO MAKE YOUR STORE MORE AUTISM-FRIENDLY For the last few years, footwear specialist Charles Clinkard has been offering families full support to ensure that children with autism are comfortable throughout each stage of the buying process. This is part of the brand’s Autism Awareness campaign.

Here, Rachel Clinkard from Charles Clinkard offers advice on how to make your store more inclusive to children with autism.

Autism is a hidden disability that affects around 700,000 people in the UK alone (National Autistic Society) — that’s around one in 100 people (Beyond Autism). The disability is measured on a spectrum, which means no two people with autism experience life in the same way.

However, signs usually include difficulties with social interaction and sensory overload, which can make shopping difficult. That’s why, as retailers, we need to put systems in place to make shopping in our stores a more comfortable experience Although your store may already take part in the National Autistic Society’s Autism Hour, you can take further steps to ensure that your shop is more inclusive year-round. In fact, at least 29 per cent of shoppers are likely to make the switch to another retailer if they can see that they have systems in place to celebrate diversity and inclusivity (Accenture).

Here are five ways to make your store more inclusive to those with autism.

ADAPT YOUR ENVIRONMENT For children with autism, loud, bright stores can be overwhelming, especially if they are busy and there are lots of crowds. This can lead to anxiety and behavioural challenges, which can make the shopping process difficult. So, a good starting point is adapting your store’s environment to reduce the likelihood of sensory overload. You could consider extending your opening times to provide a quiet hour either once a day or once a week, where you dim the lights, turn off any in-store TVs, video screens, checkout noises and music, and avoid making any tannoy announcements.

OFFER A BESPOKE SERVICE For some children with autism it can help to tailor their shopping experience to them. Ask parents what their child’s needs are and how you can help, then keep those details on file for future reference. If you can, try to assign them a specific store clerk who can assist them every time they visit the store. A familiar face can go a long way towards making a child feel more comfortable in their environment.

It can also be helpful to offer a video to parents so they can fully prepare their child before they come to your store. For example, you could send them a step-by-step film showing what will happen.

CREATE A QUIET AREA It can be tough to get your store perfect for every customer, so don’t be discouraged if any of the children do find it difficult. Just make sure you offer a quiet area or room where families can go to calm 62 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

down. This could be an empty dressing room or a corner of your store complete with a few chairs or beanbags. Then, ask the family how you can make their experience better, and bear this in mind for future shoppers.

TRAIN YOUR STAFF Although everyone with autism is different, your staff should be provided with extensive information about the condition to make sure that they can offer a compassionate service and can remain patient and calm. No one expects your staff to be autism experts, but training them is all about ensuring everyone feels confident enough to serve customers with autism.

EDUCATE YOUR CUSTOMERS This process is all about making your store more welcoming and inclusive, which means children without autism may still visit your store in these hours. During these times, you could speak to families, put up posters, or hand out fliers at the door to inform the public of your autism-friendly processes. Not only does this help to spread the word about your changes, but it also helps to ensure that your customers are going to act respectfully towards those who do have autism.

Public places can be a challenging space for people with autism.

By following the steps in this guide you can make your store a more welcoming and inclusive place.

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CONTACTS A Acorn & Will 07921 261194 www.acornandwill.co.uk • Aidie London 07761 483536 www.aidielondon.com • Altrincham HQ 07806 774279 www.altrinchamhq.co.uk • Apartment Number 4 contact@ apartmentnumber4.com www.apartmentnumber4.com B Baby Gi 07894 905996 www.thewillowsagency.co.uk • Banner 0333 7000 888 www.banner.co.uk • Beatrice & Bee hello@beatriceandbee.com www. beatriceandbee.com • Brand Licensing Europe www.brandlicensing.eu • Bubble at Pure London 020 3855 9551 www.purelondon.com C Cad Modelling 0039 088 247 6261 www.cadmodelling.it • CHIC 0049 211 302 64337 enmar.chicfair.com • Cloud and Cuckoo 07894 916102 www.cloudandcuckoo.com • Conscious Fashion Campaign www. consciousfashioncampaign.com D David Luke 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com • Diamond Textiles 0116 251 0121 www.diamondtextiles.co.uk • Dinki Human 07791 883409 www. dinkihuman.com • Done by Deer 07876 150729 www.donebydeer.com • Dotty Dungarees alice@dottydungarees.com www.dottydungarees.com E Early Days 01162 716944 www.earlydays.ltd.uk • Elodie info@ elodiedetails.se www.elodiedetails.com/uk F Falcon Sportswear 01274 306440 www.falconsports.co.uk • Fiona Coleman fiona.coleman@me.com • Fox Williams 020 7628 2000 www.foxwilliams. com • Fred’s World 0045 70702502 www.bygreencotton.dk • Froddo 01707 888388 www.kidsnewshoes.com • Frugi 01326 558462 www.frugiwholesale. com • FTCT 0300 123 9002 www.ftct.org.uk G Goodman Derrick LLP 020 7404 0606 www.gdlaw.co.uk • Grass & Air keepdry@grassandair.com www.grassandair.com • Great Pretenders francois@creative-edu.com www.greatpretenders.ca H Holly Hastie 020 7127 9107 www.hollyhastie.com I INDX Kidswear Show 0121 683 1415 www.indxshow.co.uk • Isbjörn of Sweden 0046 8 5703 1918 www.isbjornofsweden.com • Istoria Group 01179 725151 www.istoriagroup.com K Kite 01202 733222 www.kite-clothing.co.uk

L Le Mu 07796 173771 www.le-me.co.uk • Lil’ Cubs cubsquestions@gmail. com www.lilcubs.co.uk • Lily & Grace 01452 207766 www. lilyandmeclothing.com • Lilly and Sid 01788 824455 www.lillyandsid.com M Mini A Ture 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk • Mini Mode Global Kids Fashion Week info@mini-mode.co.uk www.mini-mode.co.uk • Moda 0203 855 9550 www.moda-uk.co.uk • Muddy Puddles 01299 407150 www. muddypuddles.com • Müsli 0045 70702502 www.bygreencotton.dk N National Weaving 01834 861446 www.nationalweaving.co.uk • NoNo nikki@superkidsandco.com www.nono.eu O OceanBluu contactus@oceanbluu.com www.oceanbluu.com • Once Upon A Foxx 07721 724304 www.onceuponafoxx.com P Pickle 01303 778064 www.pickle.co.uk • Picture Book Fashion 0141 552 5970 www.picturebookfashion.com • Pigeon 01865 379230 www. pigeonorganics.com • Pitti Bimbo 0033 055 3696222 www.pittimmagine. com R Rachel Riley 020 7935 7007 www.rachelriley.co.uk • Raspberry Republic info@raspberryrepublic.com www.raspberryrepublic.pl • RHS licensing@ rhs.org.uk www.rhs.org.uk • Rowlinson Knitwear 0161 477 7791 www. rowlinson-knitwear.com S Schoolwear Association info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk www. schoolwearassociation.co.uk • Sophie Allport tradeorders@sophieallport. com www.sophieallport.com T The Insights People 0330 159 6631 www.theinsightspeople.com • Top Drawer 020 7384 8167 www.topdrawer.co.uk • Totem 07557 642898 www.thetotemkids.com • Trutex 01200 421205 www.trutex.com • Turtledove London hello@turtledovelondon.com www.turtledovelondon. com W Wexbaby hello@wexbaby.co.uk www.wexbaby.co.uk • Wish + Wonder 07732 817271 www.wishandwonder.co.uk Y Young Soles 07787 126973 www.youngsoles.london

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Through its links with The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) and the Schoolwear Association (SA), CWB offers a forum for UK retailers, manufacturers and agents to exchange information, making CWB the number-one place to get your voice heard.

Complemented by its website cwb-online.co, CWB magazine will keep you abreast of key business issues and essential industry updates as well as offering fashion and trade show coverage, brand profiles, stock ideas and the latest news and views from the world of children’s fashion and independent retail.

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TALKING POINT ROSIE DAVIES Goodman Derrick LLP

How can high street retailers remain competitive in an online world? Rosie Davies, a senior associate in the retail team at London law firm Goodman Derrick LLP, provides competitive strategies for bricks and mortar stores.

Online retailing is not a temporary phenomenon. It brings huge challenges for high street retail and retailers need to act quickly to embrace new technologies and remain competitive.

If (as the headlines tell us) traditional retail is a sinking ship, there are two life rafts that have been flung into the water. The first is diversification. Retailers can offer their consumers something “different” as part of their shopping experience: something memorable and unusual, which serves the busy, tech-savvy, multi-tasking customer of today.

The second is cost-cutting. Rising costs mean that profit margins are shrinking at an alarming rate and retailers need to be bold in their demands. It really is a case of sink or swim.

Diversification can be seen in the huge growth of “experiential retail”. What can you offer your customers in store that they cannot obtain online? These activities should complement the retail experience, or facilitate it, depending on your target demographic. Examples have included children’s hairdressing services in childrenswear shops, gaming events, cookery demonstrations, sports events - the list goes on. Retail spaces can also be transformed into meeting places so that they become a destination in their own right and, crucially, a focal point for the community.

When I think of my local high street, what have been the success stories in recent years? In general, it is indeed the businesses who have offered something different: the art shop that also offers children’s pottery classes, the bar that offers yoga classes on quieter evenings, or the bookshop that houses a coffee shop and internet cafe.

Research shows that the way retail space is being used is indeed changing rapidly. More and more retailers are offering a “click and collect” service, with retail units being repurposed as showrooms to showcase the plethora of products available online.

Savvy retailers are using technology to their advantage by collecting customer data in order to educate consumer habits.

Loyalty card schemes are also big business, enabling the lawful collection of data in return for rewards or reductions.

The second life raft (to continue the nautical metaphor) is 66 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2020

cost-cutting. In these challenging market conditions, how are retailers reducing their overheads in order to remain competitive?

A number of tactics are being used ranging from simply talking to landlords (with a view to negotiating rent cuts: “you’ve done it for our competitor, so do it for us”, etc), to the more aggressive approach of serving termination notices in order to force landlords to the table. Serving notices can be a very effective, but also very risky, strategy.

In the current market, landlords may well agree to a reduced (sometimes nil) rent in order to avoid the burden of an empty unit and the rates liability that comes with it. In return, however, they will probably require a high level of flexibility in order to re-let the unit at short notice should a better deal come up. Whilst this approach can pay off, retailers need to recognise that they will be in a weak negotiating position if the market recovers as they will often be left with short term leases that are excluded from the Landlord and Tenant Act 1954, so giving them no statutory rights to renew.

We are also seeing more of a collaborative approach between landlords and tenants as landlords are under pressure to share risks with their tenants. Therefore, we are seeing an increase in the number of turnover rent leases. Some retailers are even taking this a step further by asking for so-called “total occupational deals”. This involves paying a fixed percentage of gross turnover with deductions for business rates, service charge and other such costs.

Poorly performing stores may need to be surrendered subject to the negotiation of satisfactory terms. Similarly, subletting part of a unit or granting a concession can maximise income and provide a profitable use for excess space. Leases should be reviewed with a fine-tooth comb and dialogue should be opened with landlords in order to ascertain the possibilities that are available.

Business rates liability is huge for many retailers. There is intense debate about the perceived imbalance between the rates burden on bricks and mortar retailers as opposed to online retailers and there are calls for this to be reformed. For now, an increasing number of business owners are obtaining professional advice on how to secure rates reductions. The complexities of the reliefs available and the appeals process can appear daunting, but it is worth remembering that reductions can often be sizeable.

In summary, the retailers who are surviving – and even, in some cases, prospering – are those who are devising strategies that embrace the changing face of our traditional shopping experience and are not afraid to think “outside the box”. www.gdlaw.co.uk

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