CWB 120

COMMENT

The last editor’s comment I wrote was in March 2020, the day after the Government-imposed UK lockdown. It’s been a while, but it’s great to finally see CWB back in print.

I say ‘back’, we have been here throughout the duration, although digitally. Like many businesses navigating the pandemic, we turned to online when the physical world locked down. With guidance and advice changing on a daily and even hourly basis during the pandemic, our website, weekly newsletters and social media channels provided the fastest and most efficient means to keep the industry informed. The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) has also been focusing on its online presence of late, relaunching its website as well as introducing a brand-new platform – The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace. The B2B platform offers retailers the facility to place wholesale orders online and brands the opportunity to have a B2B store without the headache or heavy investment of setting up their own. Don’t miss our feature in this issue covering everything you need to know about the B2B platform and how it works.

Now, moving back to the subject of print. In line with the annual Schoolwear Show, which this year takes place on Sunday 10 October and Monday 11 October, September/October marks our schoolwear issue. As well as bringing you everything you need to know about The Schoolwear Show 2021, we have a host of other schoolwear content for you. Topics range from the latest product news and company updates to retailers reviewing Back to School. We also have schoolwear suppliers discussing how their businesses adapted to the pandemic alongside their views on key issues facing the industry, including supply chain disruption, the shipping crisis, rising costs of raw materials and the School Uniform Bill. Despite the challenges, there is currently much positive change and innovation within the sector, something I think you’ll find very apparent in this issue’s schoolwear content.

Our fashion section is equally inspiring, everything from store openings to brand launches. We also bring you some exciting new business concepts including The Nest, a new distribution platform that connects British brands across maternity, newborn and nursery with buyers and retailers across the world, and the new Kids o’Clock and Harvey Nichols partnership, which aims to revolutionise the circular economy movement for kidswear.

Our next print issue will be the December/January edition, which amongst other things will include the latest news on the a/w trade fairs. In the meantime, if you haven’t already, you can sign up for CWB’s weekly fashion and schoolwear newsletters via the homepage of our website and receive the latest industry news direct to your inbox.

On that note, I’d like to take the opportunity to wish you all well. The past 18 months have been difficult for many, both personally and professionally. For those attending The Schoolwear Show and Schoolwear Association evening, I look forward to seeing you – in person.

Laura Turner, editor

CWB

NEWS ROUND-UP

PICTURE BOOK FASHION SPONSORS YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE

FABRIC FLAVOURS OPENS

CONCEPT STORE

Baby and kids’ brand, Fabric Flavours, has opened a new two-storey concept store in Hampstead, London. Customers can shop the brand’s full collection in-store, which includes signature licensed T-shirts, hoodies, joggers, swimwear, jackets, bags, caps and beanies. There is also a range for parents.

In addition to Fabric Flavours’ clothing collection, there is a wide range of micro scooters, accessories and Frog Bikes. Children can try out the scooters and bikes before they buy in the store’s custom-built Velorooms downstairs. Parents, meanwhile, can take a seat and have a drink in the bar upstairs; all whilst watching their children through the observation windows.Theshop is located at 301-305 Cricklewood Lane, NW2 and is by appointment only.

MAMAS & PAPAS BOLSTERS EXPANSION OVERSEAS

Nursery and childrenswear retailer Mamas & Papas is stepping up its international growth after signing new overseas partnerships across Central and Eastern Europe. The company said the agreements were part of its long-term ambition to build Mamas & Papas into the “global nursery brand of Mamaschoice”.&Papas, which already sells in multiple European markets, has signed distribution partners and agents in a total of 10 countries. This includes key markets of Russia, Poland and The Czech Republic. Johan Meyfroidt, international general manager at Mamas & Papas, says, “There has always been strong overseas demand for British heritage brands like Mamas & Papas. Our products have sold successfully in a number of markets for decades. As we step up our global ambitions, we’re exploring multiple routes to market, from distributors and agents to franchisees and licensing partners.”

As part of its ongoing support for the local community, childrenswear company Picture Book Fashion (PBF) and its brands mitch&son and MiTCH have set up a sponsorship with Glasgow and District Youth Football League (GADYFL). The biggest of its kind in Scotland, the league provides access to organised football for teams aged 5 to 13 years, helping over 3,000 children play football every Sunday across three venues in the city. The sponsorship will go towards equipment, venue space, pitch hire and other essentials, helping to continue the league’s work with local children in and around Glasgow. League chairperson, Peter Glancey, is “delighted that a local, family-run business is willing to sponsor the league, which will go a long way to ensure more kids can participate in football throughout the city.”

Andrew Molloy, director of PBF, recently visited one of the league’s training days. “We were amazed at the scale of the operation and the dedication of the organisers, teams, coaches and

parents in making it all work,” he says. “We are delighted to play a small part in helping this continue and thrive. There is no downside to active kids taking part in sport, and who knows, maybe stars of the future will start their journey with PBF’sGADYFL.”brands are A*Dee, mitch&son, MiTCH and Little A, which collectively cater for 0 to 14 years. For further information visit www.picturebookfashion.com.

MAGIC LIGHT PICTURES X JOULES GRUFFALO RANGE

Magic Light Pictures has partnered with lifestyle brand Joules to launch an exclusive collection of Gruffalo clothing and accessories for babies and children up to six years. Available via Joules, both in-store and online, the collection includes jackets, boots, hats, gloves and bags featuring The Gruffalo’s trademark terrible teeth, terrible tusks and purple prickles.

There are also T-shirts, tops, leggings, dresses and jackets offering vibrant images of The Gruffalo, Mouse, Fox, Owl and Snake, with patterns taking inspiration from the deep, dark wood. As Joules is part of the Better Cotton Initiative, the range also uses organically grown cotton.

IL GUFO TEDDY&MINOULAUNCHES

Kittens ‘Teddy’ and ‘Minou’ were the childhood playmates of Alessandra and Guido Chiavelli, CEOs of Il Gufo. Today, these names mark a new brand promoting sustainability and caring for the planet - Teddy&Minou - a collection for 0 to 36 months launching for s/s 22.

Each of the debut collection’s 50 pieces uses certified organic cotton or upcycled fabrics. The packaging and labels also use 100 per cent recycled materials, and dyes are non-toxic and biodegradable. Sets, dresses and accessories have a snug and comfortable look, with the majority being gender-neutral. Key pieces include an organic cotton cross-over playsuit with lace ties, a two-piece set with floral upcycled fabric bloomers and a white T-shirt featuring a matching fabric kitten.

THE DEN KIT COMPANY’S NEW SUSTAINABLE GIFTING RANGE

Coinciding with a relaunch of its website, branding and packaging, The Den Kit Company has introduced a new collection ready for Christmas gifting.

With roots in teaching and Forest School, the brand’s goal has always been to bring children closer to nature. This is reflected in the new collection, which includes The Bird Nest Kit, The New Potion Making Kit, The New Entomology Kit, The New Natural Art Kit, The New Herbarium Kit, The Survival Bracelet Kit, The Fixings Kit, The Forest Den Kit and ForagingTherePockets.arealso additions to many of the existing kits. Plus, every kit includes reusable and refillable materials, and the entire collection follows the company’s leading principles of being sustainable, ethical and transparent.

NEW PLATFORM FOR KIDSWEAR RESALE

Dotte, a fashion-forward peer-to-peer marketplace, is making waves in the childrenswear sustainability sector by introducing the Dotte resale collective. The new initiative is committed to supporting sustainably minded brands by extending the lifecycle of garments and offering a full circle remedy. It is also encouraging more parents to buy well and resell.

Dotte brings together progressive labels such as Tobias & the Bear, Turtledove London, Zig and Star, Another Fox, Raspberry Plum, Indikidual, KISO and Mère Soeur, enabling them to become more circular, reduce waste and help minimise the impact of fast fashion.

NEW SUPPLY CHAIN PLATFORM

UKFT is working with IBM, Tech Data and the Future Fashion Factory to design, prototype and pilot a new technology platform based on IBM technologies. The Sustainable Supply Chain Optimisation project, which has been awarded £1.4m funding by Innovate UK, will help the UK fashion and textile industry drive sustainability and profitability through increased transparency within the supply chain.

The platform will combine several emerging technologies like blockchain, AI and sensors to digitise the key processes in the supply chain, creating a shared system of data that the different parties can trust and easily act upon. Retailers Next, H&M (COS brand), N Brown, New Look, and yarn manufacturer Laxtons are part of the initial pilot.

THE LITTLE SOCK CO. EXPANDS RANGE

The Little Sock Company has launched its first non-slip crawling leggings. Designed for little ones on the move, the leggings provide grip via patterned silicon knees, which also make the leggings more hardwearing and help stabilise the child, preventing them from slipping on smooth surfaces.Suitable to wear on their own or layered with a skirt or shorts, the cotton leggings are available in three colours - grey stripe, pink spot, and navy and grey wide stripe - in sizes 3 months up to 3 years.

CHILDREN’S SHOE BRAND LEOPH LOOKS TO EXPAND

NEW INDX TOYS & NURSERY SHOW

The Independent Toy & Gift show is joining the umbrella group of INDX trade shows. When it returns to Cranmore Park on 19-20 April 2022 it will be under the INDX Home Banner, rebranded as INDX Toys & Nursery show. INDX represents a group of established trade shows covering fashion and home categories. The addition of Toys & Nursery will expand and strengthen the existing INDX Home portfolio, which already includes Furniture, Housewares, Linens, Beds & Bedroom, and Gift Food.

The first INDX Toys & Nursery show on 19-20 April 2022 will be open to all retailers and includes free admission and free on-site parking.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Boasting 324K Instagram followers, Kristy Green has already hit the headlines after her bridal collection with In The Style sold out. Now the fashion influencer and mother of one has exclusively launched her own kids’ range with BabyChum. The 18-piece capsule collection for babies up to age five years offers clothing, accessories and a neutral colour palette suitable for boys and girls.

New nature-loving brand Wilder Waves creates designs for children’s and adults’ T-shirts and hooded tops using organic cotton and recycled materials. Its packaging is all paper and can be recycled too. Plus, a donation from every sale goes to Ocean Generation, an inclusive global movement that exists to restore a sustainable relationship between humanity and the ocean.

Italian children’s footwear brand leOPH is looking for distributors, importers and agents in the UK. The established company creates fashionable children’s shoes that prioritise functionality and safety and accommodate the growth and development of children’s feet.

The brand’s footwear is made from leather with natural buffalo lining, a highly breathable material that keeps the foot dry. The tanning process of the leather takes place through water dyes with glycerin treatments to produce a chromium-free, non-toxic product that won’t harm children’s skin. Glues used in leOPH’s production processes are also free of harmful components, supporting the health of children as well as nature. For further information visit www.leoph.it.

Etta Loves is strengthening its understanding of babies’ visual and cognitive development via a partnership with Sussex Baby Lab at the University of Sussex. The three-year partnership will deliver scientific studies and analysis across visual development, infant aesthetics and pattern perception. The research will enable Etta Loves to develop the scientific basis of its products as well as test and verify designs.

NCWA NEWS

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT

it is to be writing an article for a printed version of “Childrenswear Buyer” again.

The last time I did this the words “coronavirus” and “lockdown” were not part of everyday parlance. How times have changed, but how reassuring it is to see shops open again and exhibitions taking place (albeit with different rules) and to feel confidence returning to consumers.

Whilst we all know that the past 18 months have left an indelible mark on society and how we sell our wares and consumers shop, we can at least feel that we are moving to some sort of “normality”, even if it is different from that in MarchOne2020.sign of normality will be the sight of this edition of “CWB” on your doormat. Full of news of the industry, both fashion and schoolwear – including a preview of The Schoolwear Show taking place in October – I hope you will find it as attractive and interesting as ever.

The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) has kept itself busy since the arrival of the pandemic with updates nearly every week on furloughing and SEISS, lockdown and the easing of restrictions as well as our usual information on what is happening in the world of Standards (both the European Cords and Drawstring Standard and the Technical Report on Mechanical Safety are being updated). Brexit too has been a feature, not least with the incorrect imposition of 20 per cent VAT on some imports of childrenswear. The new NCWA website was launched just before the pandemic. Do have a look at what it offers – not least a free page to all NCWA members (www.ncwa.co.uk).

Earlier this year we launched our own B2B platform, The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace, where brands can have a presence and through which retailers can place an order once they have been approved by the brand concerned. Brands do not have to be an NCWA member to use the platform (but members do benefit from discounted rates) and if you have your own B2B platform, The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace can direct interested retailers to it. For retailers, access to the platform is free. Do look at www.marketplace.ncwa.co.uk. The platform gives brands the chance to gain new retail customers, both in the UK and abroad, an invaluable tool particularly whilst travel restrictions and lack of confidence persists.

If you would like to know more about how to become an NCWA member and enjoy the benefits of the only organisation for all those in the childrenswear industry, do get in touch with us at NCWA, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488; info@ncwa.co.uk. If you are not a member, you can easily join online (www.ncwa.co.uk) and membership starts at only £100 (+ VAT) per annum. Michelle Payne and I look forward to hearing from you.

Elizabeth P Fox Executive Director

How2021good

Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry. Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available. Membership costs from £100.

Childrenswear brand Blade & Rose has unveiled a new collaboration with Inch Blue, the handmade leather baby shoe brand. The launch is a collection of baby shoes offering the comfort of Inch Blue’s high-quality leather craftsmanship with the vibrancy and fun of Blade & Rose’s distinctive characters. Designed to complement Blade & Rose outfits, shoe designs include Maura the Mouse, Farmyard Tractor, Frankie the Lion, Flying Unicorn and Ellie the Elephant.

Independent retailers can place wholesale orders online for both Blade & Rose and Inch Blue via The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace. It is free for retailers to register and order, simply visit www.marketplace.ncwa.co.uk.

JOHN LEWIS SUPPORTS ONLINE GROWTH

The John Lewis Partnership has signed an agreement with Tesco to lease a 1 million sq. ft distribution centre at Fenny Lock in Milton Keynes. The move will help the business meet growing customer demand for online orderssince the start of the pandemic, online sales have grown from 40 per cent to over 60 per cent of John Lewis’s total sales.

The warehouse, leased for 11 years, will become the Partnership’s second-largest distribution centre following its 2 million sq. ft campus at Magna Park in Milton Keynes.

BLUE MOUSE AGENCY INTRODUCES ETTIE&H

New childrenswear brand Ettie&H is launching for s/s 22 with Blue Mouse Agency. Designed with a considered and simple colour palette, the range for boys and girls offers bespoke, handdrawn prints and comfortable fabrics. Each season will offer six exclusive prints across dresses, rompers, dungarees, tops, T-shirts and cardigans for 0 to 7 years, alongside matching blankets, bibs, headbands and cuddly comforters. Furthermore, retailers ordering over £600 will receive free packs of illustrated number and letter cards to complement the collection and give away to Alongsidecustomers.Ettie&H, Blue Mouse Agency’s brand portfolio also includes Poppet & Fox, Me & Henry, Vignette, Lilly + Sid, Turtledove London, Musli by Green Cotton and Fred’s World by Green Cotton.

FRUGI X NATIONAL TRUST

LEADING MANUFACTURERKIDSWEARJOINS THE CHILDRENSWEAR ASSOCIATION

Based in Turkey across Istanbul and Çorlu, Zeynep Textiles is an expert in manufacturing ready-to-wear garments, fabric dyeing and printing. Operating since 1970, it is a leading international player in the ready-to-wear clothing market, particularly for children aged 0 to 16 years.The company’s services include the dyeing and printing of cotton knitted and woven raw fabrics, in-house bespoke collection design, and white-label and private label certified garment manufacturing. It also holds Sedex, Oeko-Tex Class-1, GOTS and BCI certificates.

Zeynep Textiles produces three childrenswear brands – Mininio London, Z-Land and Zeyland – which it presents as white label manufacturing to international customers. This is alongside manufacturing for a host of brands including River Island and Sophie Allport.

KIDSWEAR COLLECTIVE PARTNERS WITH IL GUFO

Kidswear Collective, the pre-loved designer kids’ fashion website, has partnered with childrenswear brand Il Gufo. When shopping in Il Gufo’s London flagship boutique, customers will receive a Kidswear Collective mailing bag. They can then return – either to the Il Gufo boutique or to Kidswear Collective directly – any gently worn items their children have outgrown. These items will then be sold on Kidswear Collective’s website. As a ‘reward’ for their sustainability, Il Gufo will give its customers a one-off 15 per cent discount to spend in-store. As a fully circular partnership, any Kidswear Collective customers who buy or sell pre-loved Il Gufo items via its website will also receive a one-off discount of 15 per cent at www.ilgufo.com.

Nocturnal Explorers is a capsule collection of ethically made outerwear and accessories for a/w 21 by sustainable children’s clothing brand Frugi and the National Trust. Inspired by the National Trust’s ‘50 Things to do before you’re 11¾’ activities and the wildlife supported by the charity’s conservation work, Frugi has created another collection for children to explore the outdoors.Like previous Frugi x National Trust collections, the print across the clothing and accessories focuses on an aspect of Britain’s wildlife. This time it is the turn of nocturnal animals, including hedgehogs, bats, snails, and glow Theworms.unisex capsule collection includes the sustainable Snuggle Fleece and Frugi’s awardwinning Puddle Buster Coat. For parents and older kids there is also the new Pack a Picnic Blanket and Pack A Penny Wallet, all made from recycled plastic materials.

Organic childrenswear brand Lilly + Sid won in all three of its nominated categories in the Loved by Parents (LBP) Awards 2021. Marking the fourth consecutive year Lilly + Sid has won in the LBP Awards, 2021 saw the brand scoop Platinum for Best Baby Fashion Brand, Platinum for Best Toddler Fashion Brand, and Platinum for Best Junior Fashion Brand.

This year, baby and toddler footwear expert Poco Nido is celebrating 10 years of offering an extensive range of colourful shoes. Supporting little ones’ first steps, the British brand nurtures confidence from crawling, walking to jumping. Poco Nido’s footwear collection includes vegan, leather and patterned options and specialises in barefoot-friendly soles, promoting the development of healthy feet. Place wholesale orders online with Poco Nido at www.marketplace.ncwa.co.uk.

The Childrenswear Association produces regular newsletters for members with updates on the latest industry news alongside advice and business support. If you are not currently receiving the newsletter, please contact The Childrenswear Association at info@ncwa.co.uk. Alternatively, the newsletter is available to view on the members’ section of the Childrenswear Association website.

OPEN TO BUSINESS

NATIONAL –CONTRIBUTIONSINSURANCEINCREASEAREASONTOAPPOINTAGENTS

The Government has just announced it is increasing National Insurance contributions (NICs) – in effect an employment tax. For some businesses with employed sales representatives, this may be the time to invite the employees concerned to become a selfemployed sales agent. For businesses contemplating such a change, what issues should you consider?

COMMERCIALITY

A change in the status of the sales force needs to make commercial sense – for the business and the sales force. For both, there will be an issue of “how do we make it work?”.

The business can be expected to want to include in any agreement with the newly appointed agent some provisions which will give it confidence that the agent will service customers and seek new customers in ways consistent with the business’s objectives.

An agent can be expected to look for some form of financial assistance as most agency models work on a commission basis with a time lag between the taking of an order and the customer paying. Different financial schemes – ranging from a temporary monthly retainer to the payment of advance commission – can be put in place to bridge the initial time gap following the commencement of the agency to ensure that the agent is not financially disadvantaged.

THE AGENCY AGREEMENT

The change in status will mean replacing the employment contract with an agency contract. From a legal perspective, there is a material difference – an employed sales representative will move from being an employee to self-employed. Whilst this may seem to be a statement of the obvious – and is the key to addressing the increased NIC cost mentioned above – an agency agreement should address issues that are different to those found in employment contracts as follows:

• The scope of the appointment of the agent needs to be stated. In essence, what is the extent of the agent’s entitlements and responsibilities in terms of:

– geographical territory;

– products;

– new products in the future;

– customers and channels to market?

• What is reserved to the business should also be stated.

• What would be the duration of the agency? In a situation where the status of the employed sales representative is changing, it would be unusual for the duration to be fixed. Instead, it can be expected that the agency will be continuous subject to either party being required to give a specific period of notice (for example, three months).

Various obligations on the agent can be expected to be included such as:

• Providing the business with details of customers contacted or to be contacted;

• Transmitting orders obtained and generally acting as a conduit between the business and customers;

• Attending sales meetings and possibly trade shows; and

• Providing market reports.

Correspondingly, obligations on the business can be expected, •including:Supporting the agent with samples, information, POS materials, and technology (for example tablets); and

• How and when commission is to be paid.

THE COMMERCIAL AGENTS REGULATIONS

The Commercial Agents Regulations have been in existence for many years, but still, urban myths abound about them.

The Regulations govern the relations between businesses and their agents. Whilst the Regulations are pro-agent, there are ways in which they can and should be balanced, given the intended relationship between the business and its agents. These include:

• Providing for the above notice of termination to be given and expire at any time;

• Stating that subject to meeting various requirements under the Regulations, the agent will be entitled to an indemnity (and not compensation) following termination of the agency; and

• Addressing the provisions in the Regulations that specify that actions taken by the agent before termination and resulting in orders after termination will not result in the payment of commission by the business to the agent.

This can be particularly important where a new agent is succeeding an old agent and the business could be faced with having to pay two lots of commission in respect of the same sale.

TAKE HOME POINTS

• A business/agent relationship is symbiotic. The better the business does, the better the agent does and vice versa.

• Whilst the change from an employed sales force to self-employed agents may be considered as resulting in the business having less control over sales, this can be addressed in the agency agreement as can to a large extent the pro-agent Regulations.

• There can be tax savings for both parties.

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THERAPYRETAIL

We reveal our favourite independent boutiques, as well as news from the

THE DEN – KIDSWEAR

Owd Barn at Bispham, Spencers Farm, Rufford Road, Ormskirk L40 3SA

Before opening The Den – Kidswear in October 2020, Lucy Charlish spent 20 years buying and merchandising for some of the UK’s biggest retailers. When the opportunity arose to do it for herself, she jumped at the chance.

As a mum to two young children, Charlish had a clear idea of what she wanted to offer in a shopping experience. Everything in one place, quality clothing that gives children the chance to be individual, and brands that know exactly how and where their clothes have been produced to the highest standards. Focusing on apparel, including outerwear, hand-picked ranges for 0 to 10 years are available from brands including Tiny Cottons, Tobias and the Bear, Dinki Human, The Middle Daughter, Turtledove London, Musli, Muddy Puddles, Sticky Lemon and Bonds

Wondersuits.Situated

in a picturesque, rural setting at Spencers Farm in Ormskirk, and based in a converted barn that once housed potatoes, the modern and fun kidswear store sits alongside a womenswear boutique, florist, yoga studio, hair salon and spa. There is also a farm shop and café.

While the pandemic has prevented in-store events until now, Charlish plans to hold

shopping evenings in the future as well as work with Owd Barn to hold events. She has also been working in collaboration with the on-site yoga studio to offer classes such as baby massage and baby yoga, and with a local photographer to run family shoots. The focus now is on establishing the business locally as a destination for independent kidswear brands as well as growing its online presence. Another store is part of the plan, too.

www.thedenkidswear.com

TICKETY BEAU

78 Main Street, Markethill, Co. Armagh

BT60 1PL

The pandemic served as a catalyst for many a new business venture, and it was also what spurred Jenna Chapman to follow her passion for fashion and children’s clothing by opening kidswear boutique, Tickety Beau.

With help from family, Chapman worked on Tickety Beau throughout lockdown before opening the store in May of this year. Utilising her creative flair, she designed a castle theme to complement the shop’s setting in Markethill, close to Gosford Castle in Co. Armagh. Thanks to all the fittings and décor being created and handmade by her family, the result is an entirely bespoke

Thelook.store stocks a variety of children’s brands including Losan baby, Boys and Girls, Weekend a la Mer, Ebita Fashion, Hashtag Boys, Happy Calegi, Rapife Baby, Lemon Beret, Angel

WEB WATCH

www.mylittlegreenwardrobe.com

& Rocket, Toby Tiger and Mary Meyer Soft Toys. Plans for Tickety Beau include expanding the ecommerce platform and the shop premises to enable the business to grow and invest in more unique, local brands. www.tickety-beau.co.uk

HARVEY NICHOLS KIDSWEARLAUNCHES

Harvey Nichols chose its Leeds store as one of several across the country to stock the company’s first-ever range for children. Leeds is stocking 25 kidswear brands and over 700 different styles in its Briggate store, with the entire range also available to buy online. Harvey Nichols’ kidswear collection caters to newborn, baby, kids and teens, providing a go-to destination for luxury children’s fashion, everyday essentials and gifting, with both casual and occasionwear featuring in the new kidswear space.

My Little Green Wardrobe is a new website selling childrenswear sourced from sustainable and ethical brands only, with each brand hand-picked and vetted to ensure it follows the highest ethical standards and social criteria.

To enable customers to shop according to

NEWS IN BRIEF

Following increased consumer demand when stores reopened in April, Clarks Kids launched six brand new shop-in-shops. The spaces are located at John Lewis stores throughout the UK as well as distribution in Marks & Spencer. The openings aim to further strengthen the footwear brand’s ties with accounts and retailers and improve in-store shopping experiences, all whilst taking the range to an even wider audience.

the values most important to them, My Little Green Wardrobe has devised a system of ethical factors and assigned them to the corresponding brands and garments. For instance, clothing using organic cotton or recycled plastic has a planet symbol. Items produced under improved conditions for farm labourers and garment workers receive the people symbol. Those that comply with vegan standards show that symbol, and so on. There are seven values in total: People, Planet, Animals, Vegan, Local, Diversity & Inclusivity, and Gives Back. This means there is full transparency over how each brand behaves, while customers have complete control over the companies they invest in. The website has launched with six brands, with sizes ranging from 0 to 5 years. More brands and a wider age range are set to follow.

‘HONEY, I SHRUNK THE FASHION’

Luxury retailer Browns has introduced Browns Kidswear, an edit it has titled ‘Honey, I Shrunk The Fashion’. Covering the established and emerging as well as exclusive capsules from brands entirely new to the category, the curated edit across apparel and accessories ranges from 0 to 16 years. Inaugural kidswear capsules and exclusives are available from Hunza Baby G, Off-White, Palm Angels and Zimmerman alongside edits from Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Chloe, ERL, Fendi, Givenchy, Gucci, Moncler, Rick Owens, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Versace.

Knowledge, time and fear are the key barriers preventing the 72 per cent of UK independent retailers that aren’t active on social media platforms such as Instagram and Facebook - despite 66 per cent of consumers spending three hours a day on social media. This was one of the conclusions of an industry Round Table discussion attended by BID Managers and Town Centre Teams from across the UK, hosted by Maybe*.

New research shows gift cards continue to be a key driver in encouraging shoppers back to the high streets. According to a nationally representative survey of 2,000 UK shoppers conducted by the Gift Card and Voucher Association, gift cards will encourage 63 per cent of shoppers to get out and support retail venues. The research also revealed that shoppers intend to support local and independent stores more post-Covid.

TOBRANDSWATCH SELECTS

01: PICKBU

Roz Stone launched Pickbu three years ago following almost two decades working as a dressmaker in theatre, opera, ballet, and film. Inspired by her twin boys and a move from London to North Devon, Pickbu was born. Having spent so much time working with fabric, Stone is drawn to natural, organic fibres and creates childrenswear that is breathable and washes well. Initially, the range centred on unisex T-shirts but has since expanded to include leggings, shorts, dresses, and skirts - all full of colour with a slight scandi-influence. Sizes are 12 months up to 9 years. Wholesale prices on request.

www.pickbu.com

02: THE TUR-SHIRT COMPANY

Terri-Anne Turton launched The Tur-Shirt Company in August 2020, a product of her entrepreneurial spirit and a love of positive quotes, colour and children’s clothes. The brand creates pieces designed to be as unique as each wearer. The concept behind ‘Tur-Shirts’ is that the quotes can only be read whilst being worn when the child looks at themselves in the mirror. The aim, therefore, is to encourage self-love, positivity and boost confidence – “Less dress to impress. More wear for self-care”. The Positive Self-Talk Tur-Shirt is available in seven different colourways for 3 to 12 years. Wholesale prices are £10 per unit.

www.theturshirtcompany.co.uk

03: KOOKOO BUT KIND

Kookoo But Kind is a new brand of colourful, transeasonal and planet-positive kidswear featuring only the finest raw and recycled materials with no pesticides or chemicals. Plus, every item sold helps to reforest the planet through protected conservation partnerships. The collection is divided into two themes: Be Kind, focusing on climate issues, and Endangered, spotlighting animals in danger from climate change. Hand-drawn illustrations printed with vegetable inks in the UK gently share awareness of these eco and social issues across T-shirts, sweaters and reimagined denim jackets. Sizes are 3 to 14 years, with plans for a toddler collection.

Wholesale prices on request.

www.kookoobutkind.com

04: THE QT

Kidswear brand The QT launched in March with the aim of “spreading cuteness sustainably” whilst also promoting values of equality. Essentially, it offers “cute” that both boys and girls can enjoy equally. The brand is also passionate about being as harmless as possible. The clothing is sustainably and ethically made (GOTS certified organic cotton and vegan) and designed for circularity to be as close as possible to fully natural, biodegradable and recyclable. The collection for 2 to 10 years offers elevated basics that are practical, functional, versatile and effortless, including light jackets, tops, shorts, joggers, leggings and dresses. Wholesale prices £8.50 to £30.

www.theqt.co

the chest for skin-to-skin contact while leaving the rest of the baby’s body covered. The simple, oversized shape also leaves room for umbilical cord clips and reusable nappies. Designed with a double-layered cross over front, the Kimono Star is manufactured in the UK using GOTs certified organic cotton and comes with the option of two matching hats and a memory bag. Wholesale prices £5 to £29.

www.bforbert.com

06: TWO LITTLE MICE

Two Little Mice has been creating comfortable baby and toddler clothing in colourful, fun prints since 2017. Founded by Julia Gabler, the brand is handcrafted by a small team of makers based in Harrogate, North Yorkshire, with all materials sourced from other small businesses. The Two Little Mice collection for boys and girls aged 0 to 2 years comprises snoods, short sleeve and sleeveless rompers, shorts, sweaters, harem pants, leggings and gift boxes for new babies and mums. Wholesale prices £5.35 to £23.25.

www.2littlemice.com/wholesale

07: POPPET & FOX

Launching for s/s 22, childrenswear brand Poppet & Fox is currently available for forward orders via Blue Mouse Agency. The collection comprises five capsules, each inspired by travel and places visited by the designers. Sophisticated designs, premium fabrics, traditional dying methods, authentic block prints and embroideries are all key. Each capsule is a collection in itself or can be mixed and matched. Pieces include dresses, tops, skirts, shorts, trousers and jackets for 2 to 16 years, with many items available in adult sizes for matching. Wholesale prices range from £13 for tops to £29 for dresses.

www.bluemouseagency.com

08: ZIZO

Launched this year, Zizo is a sustainable, everyday childrenswear brand inspired by nature and life in coastal Ireland. Highlighting environmental and social issues through its designs, the brand works to create conversations and initiate change. Founder Sacha Ben Elmansour is based in the coastal village of Dunmore East, Ireland, where she is “saving the planet one T-shirt at a time”. Named after her son who inspired the creation of the brand, Zizo caters for 0 to 14 years and offers T-shirts, crew neck sweaters, hoodies, shorts, joggers, trousers and bags made from 100 per cent recycled and organic materials. Wholesale prices from £14.

www.zizo.ie

LAURA LOVES

STYLED TO SPARKLE

Pastel Rainbow Sparkle Bunting Wholesale price kidshome@styledtosparkle.co.uk£8.80

BOO CHEW

Rainboo Silicone Suction Plate Wholesale price becks@boochew.com£9

REX LONDON

Bamboo Toothbrush Wholesale price info@rexlondon.comrequest

BABYBAMBA

African Safari Sherpa Blanket Wholesale price admin@babybamba.com£14.94

INSIDE OUT TOYS

Tikiri Cotton Candy Unicorn Wholesale price info@insideouttoys.co.uk£7.50

PACHAMAMA

Snowy

CALENDAREXHIBITION

CWB’s guide to the upcoming UK and international trade shows.

CHIC SHANGHAI

9-11 October 2021

National Exhibition and Convention Centre, www.enmar.chicfair.comlizhenyu@chiconline.com.cnShanghai

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW

10-11 October 2021

Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre, www.theschoolwearshow.co.ukinfo@theschoolwearshow.co.ukSolihull

TEXTILE FORUM

13-14 October 2021 One Marylebone, www.textileforum.org.ukamy.packham@textileforum.org.ukLondon

HARROGATE INTERNATIONAL NURSERY FAIR

17-19 October 2021

Harrogate Convention Centre www.nurseryfair.cominfo@nurseryfair.com

BRAND LICENSING EUROPE

17-19 November 2021

ExCel www.brandlicensing.eublecustomerservice@ubm.comLondon

PITTI BIMBO

11-13 January 2022

Fortezza da Basso, www.bimbo.pittimmagine.com/enmailing@pittimmagine.comFlorence

THE TOY FAIR

25-27 January 2022 Olympia www.toyfair.co.ukMajen@btha.co.ukLondon

BABYKID SPAIN + FIMI

27-29 January 2022 Valencia, www.babykidspain.com/enagimeno@feriavalencia.comSpain

PLAYTIME PARIS 29-31 January 2022

Parc Floral de www.iloveplaytime.comhello@iloveplaytime.comParis

INDX KIDSWEAR

30-31 January 2022

Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre, www.indxshows.co.ukinfo@indxshows.co.ukSolihull

CIFF KIDS

2-4 February 2022 Bella Center, Copenhagen www.ciff.dkvisit@ciff.dk

MODA 6-9 February 2022 NEC, www.moda-uk.co.ukmodasupport@hyve.group Birmingham

SPRING FAIR

6-9 February 2022 NEC, www.springfair.comvisitor@springfair.comBirmingham

PLAYTIME NEW YORK

13-15 February 2022 Metropolitan Pavilion, New York www.iloveplaytime.comhello@iloveplaytime.com

INDX TOYS & NURSERY

19-20 April 2022

Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre, www.indxshows.co.ukinfo@indxshows.co.ukSolihull

THE NEST

CWB’s Laura Turner speaks to Nicola Perring, founder of The Nest, a new specialist distribution platform that markets and sells British brands directly to retail buyers across the globe.

Laura Turner: In a nutshell, what is The Nest?

Nicola Perring: The Nest is a distribution platform with the primary focus of connecting British brands across maternity, newborn and nursery with buyers and retailers across the world. Membership includes access to a support network, which comprises industry expert consultants and downloadable documents and tools. As the name suggests, The Nest is somewhere safe and comfortable for British brands to grow.

LT: What inspired you to launch the business?

NP: I’d been working in retail for over 30 years and my last position was with a specialist retailer in the baby sector. When I left that role, I decided I wanted to start my own business focusing on the things I love - baby and maternity and helping small British brands get into mainstream retail. I’d seen the challenges small brands face; payment terms, getting space in-store, even getting hold of the buyers can be very difficult. Equally, I knew there was a big market for British products internationally, but you need an understanding of those markets, both culturally and historically, to know what will work. You also need to consider the opportunities for products across different

markets. For instance, a red party dress in the UK is perfect for Christmas. However, red is a lucky colour in China, so it would also be ideal for Chinese New Year. It would be well received for Ramadan

Anothertoo.big inspiration for my business was the potential it could have in increasing awareness around sustainability and ethical sourcing. There are so many amazing new fabrics being developed overseas and my aim is to make them accessible to small British brands. Innovative fabrics made from aloe fibre, corn starch and hemp could be a great alternative to organic cotton. Babies have such delicate skin - it is 30 per cent thinner than an adult’s skin - so using these new natural fabrics for baby clothing and bedding is a perfect match. Many of the brands we work with aim to be sustainable and we can support them with our knowledge and connections to fabrics sources and manufacturers. As our business is committed to protecting the environment, we offset our carbon footprint by supporting tree planting projects through Ecologi and The Soil Association. We have even developed our own trademark SEFAR (sustainable, ethical, forward-thinking, affordable and recyclable) to help us highlight our commitment to championing sustainable products.

LT: What’s the process for a brand joining The Nest?

NP: We like to take a personal approach and create collaborative relationships with brands. After years of working in large-scale retail - which can be very remote and one-way - it’s extremely important to me to have good working relationships.

If a brand wants to join our network, they can sign-up via our website or give us a call. The first step then is a one-to-one meeting. This initial ‘discovery meeting’ ensures we fully understand the business; how the brand works and what they want to do. This is such an important part of the process - we need to be able to provide a brand’s story to retailers so that they can pass it onto the customers.

The next stage sees us cover how we operate and which markets we think would be suitable. If the brand is happy with the proposal, we agree on product and territories and start approaching the buyers.

LT: Is The Nest suitable for both start-ups and established brands?

NP: We deal with a variety of SMEs. We do work with a lot of new brands, but also with established ones too. Some may already trade overseas but want to target a certain territory for instance.International markets can be very tricky for any business without the right contacts. There are a lot of complexities involved, which often put brands off. Because we understand these complexities, and deal with everything from order management to delivery, selling through us is just as easy for the brand as selling in the UK.

LT: Besides yourself, who else makes up The Nest team?

NP: I started planning and building The Nest in 2018 with two friends, Louise and Emma. Louise previously owned three independent boutiques, so we make sure we take into consideration her experiences as a retailer. Emma is from a similar background to mine and has worked for retailers such as Debenhams and F+F. She also has specialist knowledge of the lingerie sector, which is very useful as we cover maternity lingerie.More recently Sharon Beardsworth, one of our consultants, has been working very closely with me on developing our business model. Sharon has a wealth of knowledge and experience in the baby and kids’ clothing sector and has been a driving force when it comes to finding new routes to market. Our broader team includes several other consultants who can provide brands with the industry tools they need. They all specialise in different fields including sales, marketing, photography, social media, concessions and technical experts.

LT: You’re launching membership in two phases, what do they entail?

NP: The first phase sees the launch of the distribution platform with the added bonus of our downloadables, such as planning tools and design specs, as part of the subscription. It also allows access to our support network of consultants and the factories and suppliers we work with.

The second phase is our online training. Our consultants will deliver the modules across nine categories providing everything a start-up needs to know. For instance, one area we are covering is costing; how to create wholesale pricing and margins to ensure a business can successfully scale into wholesale. Brands can also book one-to-one time with consultants if they need extra support in a specific area. To help with cash flow, this can be arranged on an hourly, daily, weekly, or project basis.

LT: What are your plans for The Nest?

NP: The short-term plan is to establish the distribution platform and support functions, we’ll then move onto phase two and launch our online training. We want to focus on securing the markets we know have an appetite for British brands. The Middle East, which is extremely family-centric, has the potential to be a very big and important market for us. Families in the Middle East have four to five children on average and love shopping and spending on their kids. China also has a child-centric culture, with both parents and grandparents spending a lot on children. Other markets with similar alignments are Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.

LT: How can brands get more information on The Nest?

NP: They can visit our website www.thenest.uk.com and follow us on Twitter and Instagram (@lookin_thenest) and LinkedIn. They can also subscribe to our newsletters.

PERRINGNICOLA

BEARDSWORTHSHARON

B2BCHILDRENSWEARTHEASSOCIATIONMARKETPLACE

Designed to be relevant and of benefit to the entire kidswear sector, The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace is the new online destination for B2B childrenswear sales. For brands, it provides a cost-effective way to showcase products to a wider audience as part of a trusted destination. Retailers, meanwhile, have access to 24/7 ordering, whether that be forward-order, in-season stock, or end of lines.

Here is an overview of what the B2B platform has to offer and how it could supplement your business – whether you’re a childrenswear brand, agent, or retailer.

Q: What is The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace and who is it targeted at?

A: Created by The Childrenswear Association, the online marketplace is designed to serve the entire kidswear industry, providing brands and agents with an additional B2B sales channel and enabling independent retailers to place wholesale orders online. The platform’s curated mix of UK and international brands is all-encompassing in terms of styles and age range, and spans small, emerging labels right through to global market leaders. Brands offering babywear, kidswear, special occasionwear, footwear, children’s accessories and gifts, nursery and schoolwear are all welcome to apply.

The platform is also available to both Childrenswear Association members and non-members, although members benefit from considerably reduced prices. By joining The Childrenswear Association, a brand will not only gain a 50 per cent discount on their B2B store package but will also receive the additional benefits of membership, including counsel on legal matters; updates on new legislation and safety standards; briefings on all aspects of the childrenswear industry; access to training videos; a matchmaking service for suppliers and agents; advice on exporting; a profile page on The Childrenswear Association’s website, plus much more.

Q: Which brands have already signed up?

A: Babywear and childrenswear brands currently on the platform include Annafie, Blade & Rose, Blues Baby, Kite,

Lilly + Sid, Little Dots Company, Little Lord & Lady, Luca & Rosa, Milon, Neeva D London, Pastels & Co, Picture Book Fashion (A*Dee, Mitch & Son, MiTCH and Little A), Pigeon, Pompetitpom, Saffron Stars and Turtledove London.

Footwear is available from brands such as Early Days, Inch Blue, Poco Nido and Slipfree. Also available on the platform is kids’ outerwear from Grass & Air, children’s pyjamas from Kyly and gifts and accessories from Rockahula Kids.

Q: What are some of the key benefits the platform offers to brands?

A: Launching a trade website is time-consuming and costly. The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace takes the stress and high investment out of the equation by allowing brands to be part of a trusted online B2B destination with the added authority of being under The Childrenswear Association umbrella. Packages also include technical assistance to help brands set up their B2B shop as well as marketing support to help promote it.

Q: Do brands manage their own B2B stores?

A: Yes, brands have full autonomy over their B2B store. They curate it and can provide a taster of their collection and ethos with an introductory ‘About Us’ page. They also control who gains entry to their B2B store and fully manage their own ordering system - access to prices and ordering is only permitted with a brand’s approval. Once a brand approves a retailer, the full collection can be viewed. The retailer then places an order, which is emailed directly to the brand for confirmation. Brands also set individual payment terms and delivery times for each order. An information pack with everything a brand needs to

know about joining the B2B marketplace is available on request – simply contact info@ncwa.co.uk to receive your copy.

Q: And the benefits to retailers?

A: The B2B platform is completely free of charge for independent retailers to use, offering 24/7 ordering and an easy, convenient, and flexible way to do business alongside in-person buying appointments and trade shows. Plus, it is a cost-effective means to view a wide range of UK and international collections and discover new labels alongside current suppliers. Retailers can also buy to suit their business, whether that be forwardorder, in-season stock, or end of lines.

Q: How do I sign up as a retailer to view a brand’s full collection?

A: Visit the ‘Brands’ page of the website, click on the logo of the brand you are interested in, and register as a ‘New User’. Your request will be sent to the brand to authorise. Once approved you will be able to view the full collection and place an order, which will be sent directly to the brand for confirmation. You can register to view as many collections as you like. An information pack is available for retailers with further details on registering to the B2B platform. Simply contact info@ncwa. co.uk to receive your copy.

Q: How much does it cost to have a B2B store on the marketplace?

A: There are three price tiers available and a package covers six months. For Childrenswear Association members, the Bronze package costs £250 per six months for 50 styles/SKUs, Silver is £500 for 100 styles/SKUs, and Gold is £1,000 for 200 styles/ SKUs. Prices for non-members are £500 for the Bronze package, £1,000 for the Silver package and £2,000 for the Gold package, representing a 50 per cent discount for Childrenswear Association members.

Q: If I already have a trade website for my brand, can I promote it on the marketplace?

A: Yes, as well as hosting B2B stores the marketplace can also offer a listing to brands that already have their own trade website. This cost-effective service enables a company to showcase its trade website on the B2B platform and benefit from its marketing to reach an even wider audience.

Companies utilising the service feature on the marketplace’s ‘Brands’ page along with all other B2B stores. They also receive an ‘About Us’ profile, including a link to their trade website where retailers can directly register for a wholesale account. The cost of having a trade website listing on the marketplace starts from £200 per six months.

KIDS O’CLOCK

X HARVEY NICHOLS

The new Kids o’Clock and Harvey Nichols partnership set to revolutionise the circular economy movement in childrenswear.

Peer-to-peer marketplace Kids o’Clock is the brainchild of former Net-a-Porter, Moda Operandi and Harvey Nichols buyer, Laura Roso Vidrequin. A London-based mother, Roso Vidrequin is determined to revolutionise the way parents around the world shop for their children by providing a circular-economy solution. With Kids o’Clock, she has created a safe platform where parents can go to share and make a conscious effort to reduce their carbon footprint.

The childrenswear rental and resale category is still a relatively small sector within the fashion industry, despite 90 per cent of kids’ clothing only being worn a few handfuls of times. Children go through approximately 8 to 10 sizes from ages 0 to 3 years, which equates to a lot of clothing and a potentially large amount of textile waste. In September, Kids o’Clock joined forces with luxury fashion retailer Harvey Nichols to help provide a solution to this problem, launching a first-of-its-kind childrenswear resale drop-off destination within the department store in celebration of Harvey Nichols’ newly launched Childrenswear floor.

“We are thrilled to launch our first in-store partnership with a leading luxury retailer like Harvey Nichols,” says Roso Vidrequin. “The concept enables anyone to become a pre-loved donater or buyer in a very organic and easy way. Donating pre-loved items hugely extends the lifespan of children’s clothing and offers a dynamic way for consumers to do their bit for the environment whilst still allowing them the positive connotation attached to buying something new when shopping.

“We want more people to see that they can buy less, buy better, donate and buy pre-loved too - it is all part of the same cycle, and we hope this partnership helps to raise awareness around resale items, enabling more people to join the revolution.”

THE KIDS O’CLOCK X HARVEY NICHOLS RESALE CONCEPT

The notion is simple. Called The Drop Off, customers will be encouraged to donate their children’s pre-loved clothing at the drop-off destination in-store. From there, items will be collected and re-sold globally through the Kids o’Clock website. As a reward

for donating items, customers will receive a £20 voucher to spend on anything from the Harvey Nichols Childrenswear

“Followingfloor.therecent launch of our kidswear department, we’re delighted to be partnering with Kids o’Clock,” says Laura Larbalestier, fashion director at Harvey Nichols.

“This innovative new service provides our customers with a sustainable solution for pre-loved children’s clothing that closes the fashion circle. Not only does it extend the life of items that are all-too-quickly grown out of, but a percentage of proceeds is given to charity, and anyone donating a bag of clothes will receive a kidswear voucher to spend in-store.”

The global second-hand clothes market is estimated by Boston Consulting Group to be worth up to $40bn a year, about 2 per cent of the total apparel market. The pre-worn segment is also expected to grow 15 to 20 per cent a year for the next five years. Kids o’Clock alone has seen over 150 per cent increase in sign-ups on a month-on-month basis since launch. It currently hosts thousands of sellers and buyers monthly, further confirming the appetite amongst modern parents to list their children’s clothing, accessories, toys, prams, car seats and other essentials for resale, as well as buy these pre-loved pieces at a fraction of the retail price.

A FULLY SCALABLE CONCEPT

Whether you are a major department store or a small independent boutique; the resale and rental revolution is taking over and everyone is being encouraged to become a part of it. The Harvey Nichols partnership is the first of many that Kids o’Clock has planned for the brand. Helping retailers big and small with their recyclable approach, it will be bringing numerous drop-off destinations - each bespoke to the individual retailer – to the UK and France over the coming months.

As fashion retailers look to boost their sustainability credentials, there is a lot of room for partnerships within both the retail and resale categories, with brands sharing the same mission, values and end goal. Kids o’Clock’s partnership with Harvey Nichols is a true indication of the future of retail going hand in hand with the circular economy revolution.

THE35:NEWS30:SCHOOLWEAR

ZECO46: BOOSTS ITS BESPOKE

How

IT’S48: ALL IN THE NAME

Rowlinson BOBUX

Leading

RETAIL43:

SCHOOLWEAR52: ASSOCIATION

The

REPORT:54: ENVIRONMENTAL AND WASTE PRACTICES

Why

TALKING58: POINT

Could

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

SIGNATURE STRIKES AT LANCING COLLEGE

FAMILY BUSINESS LAUNCHES

UNISEX SCHOOL SHIRTS

International and national schoolwear supplier, School Uniform Direct, has launched unisex school shirts as part of wider plans to introduce a complete range of gender-neutral, modern fit, sustainable uniform items ranging from blazers to trousers.Thenew unisex shirts, available in long and short sleeve and three colour choices, join the supplier’s already large selection of boys’ and girls’ school uniforms, accessories and P.E sportswear.

All of School Uniform Direct’s shirts are made from cotton and 100 per cent recycled polyester from plastic bottles. The outer packaging is also 100 per cent recyclable on all shirts.

Schoolwear specialist GFORCE Sportswear (Gymphlex Ltd) has teamed up with a prestigious UK boarding and day school to supply them with an innovative new range of customised sporting teamwear. Lancing College, a co-educational school for 13 to 18-year-olds in West Sussex, has recently benefited from GFORCE’s Signature service, which provides schools with fully self-branded, bespoke sports kit with no third-party branding.GFORCE Signature enables schools to create bespoke sportswear using their school’s name, crest, colours and branding throughout the entire garment - inside and out - including the neck tape, neck labels, side seam labels and swing tags. In their latest order, the College received tracksuits, shorts, skorts, polo tops, training tops and football tops.

Simon Ward, group sales director for

GFORCE Sportswear, says, “We have been supplying school sportswear for over 100 years, but GFORCE Signature is a new initiative that offers something totally new in the school teamwear arena and helps differentiate our offer.”

EXPANDING THE CORE WITH IGEN

For several years now, Chadwick’s original four-piece iGen P.E and games kits collection, consisting of a unisex polo and short and a female polo and skort, has formed the nucleus for countless schools’ games and sports kits. Following a surge in requests for garments such as midlayers, pants and leggings, the core four-piece has now become a seven-piece.

A brand new iGen midlayer and a tapered pant have been recently introduced. Chadwick has also included one of its most popular styles, the Academy Legging, to become part of the iGen range.

COOLFLOW SCHOOLWEAR REBRANDS TO CHARLES KIRK

Family run business Coolflow Schoolwear has been providing school uniform, as a wholesaler, for more than 30 years. Having worked closely with Charles Kirk and its previous owners for over 20 years, and following the closure of Charles Kirk’s manufacturing operation in Worthing, the brand has continued in the schoolwear market operating from Coolflow Schoolwear’s manufacturing and distribution centre in Leicester. After successfully manufacturing and supplying Charles Kirk for the last two years, Coolflow Schoolwear has undergone a major rebranding to bring the name back to the forefront of the business.

Best known for high-quality knitwear and sweatshirts, the Charles Kirk brand now comprises a wider range, including blazers, trousers, skirts and sportswear. UK manufacture is still available, along with the continuation of manufacturing in Europe and Asia.

1880 CLUB SUPER SKINNY TROUSER

1880 CLUB develops the fabrics and designs across its entire range for its ability to perform well - even beyond reasonable wear and tear. The 1880 CLUB Super Skinny Trouser has added durability, style and practicality, being expertly designed to meet the demands of childhood and made for the long term.

The 1880 CLUB schoolwear range of garments are also Easy Iron and enhanced with TEFLONTM, offering improved laundering, increased durability and resistance to staining.

NEW B2B

SUPPLIERSWELCOMESMARKETPLACESCHOOLWEAR

The Childrenswear Association has expanded the remit of its new B2B marketplace to include suppliers of school accessories, footwear and plainWithclothing.many independent childrenswear retailers stocking product beyond children’s fashion, The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace can place relevant schoolwear suppliers in front of new business.

Products suitable for the platform include school bags, water bottles, stationery, hair accessories, school footwear, outerwear, plain polo shirts, sportswear, socks and tights.

For further information on any aspect of the B2B platform, please contact info@ncwa.co.uk or visit www.marketplace.ncwa.co.uk.

BANNER EXPANDS ECO UNIFORM RANGE

As part of its sustainability journey, Banner is expanding its Eco range with even more eco-friendly products. After launching its Eco Tartan collection in 2021, Banner is introducing further popular products to its Eco offering. With over 50 transitioning products, the Eco range uses a mix of sustainable and responsibly sourced materials and works to save plastic bottles from reaching landfill and the ocean. Just one of Banner’s Eco Ziggys Blazers saves 48 plastic bottles from going to waste.

TRUTEX APPOINTS NEW UK SALES DIRECTOR

Trutex has appointed Mike Atkin as UK sales director as an additional role to the senior management team. Atkin has a wealth of experience spanning 14 years in sports and corporatewear. He has also worked across sales, supply chain and production, with clients from schools, universities, professional sports clubs and retailers, including the likes of England Rugby League, Leeds Rhinos, Exeter Rugby Club and McLaren. Retailers can meet Mike Atkin at the forthcoming Schoolwear Show.

SCHOOLWEAR TO SUPPORT SPECIFIC NEEDS

George at Asda has become the first UK supermarket retailer to offer schoolwear specially designed for children with specific or sensorysensitive needs, such as autism, with its Easy On Easy Wear range.

FALCON RECYCLEDINCREASESOPTIONS

Multi-brand sportswear supplier Falcon is dedicated to continuing its drive as an ecoconscious company. In addition to the Activ+ range, which is manufactured using recycled polyester yarn, Falcon has now made the switch so that the Primary range is also made from recycled yarn. Equally, the Primary range also sees the introduction of the Y45 ¼ Zip Top with brushed polyester on the inside for extra warmth.

NEW FROM ONE+ALL

One+All has a new addition to its schoolwear range - One+All Eco Ties. Made from 100 per cent recycled polyester, the eco ties come in 53 colour combinations across three styles and lengths and are available from stock for next day delivery with no minimum order quantity. Made to order ties, including bespoke colour combinations and jacquard ties that include a school emblem, are also available.

One+All Performa Eco Blazers and One+All Performa Eco Jackets launched in 2019 and following feedback, some small but important improvements have been made to the styling and fit of the Eco Jackets. The company is also introducing a new style of girls’ jacket to join the unisex style and the classic girls’ style.

Banner’s 2022 Eco product offer reflects the company’s ambition to lead in sustainability and drive change. Sarah Robins, sustainability manager at Banner, says, “Our approach sits alongside our sustainability values, to reduce waste and avoid making our stock obsolete. We will continue to sell through our current product until we can smoothly transition through to our new Eco stock - ensuring nothing goes to waste.”

Customers will be able to discover Banner’s expanded Eco range at the upcoming Schoolwear Show and in its 2022 brochure.

The elements of non-specially designed clothes that cause the most issues for children with specific needs are itchy labels, clothes that are hard to get on and off, uncomfortable materials, and seams that irritate them. To help with independent dressing, the Easy On Easy Wear range addresses all of these issues. Fiddly buttons have been replaced with easy close fastenings, all the clothing has softer thread used on the seams, care instructions are printed on the fabric rather than using labels, and elasticated waistbands make trousers easy to put on and ensure they are extra-comfortable.

DAVID LUKE’S LATEST PRODUCT DEVELOPMENTS

David Luke’s sweatshirt offering saw a refresh in summer 2021. The removal of acrylic from the range’s garment composition offers a softer handle whilst retaining high-performance colourfastness. The polyester content remains recycled, with each sweatshirt style made using three recycled plastic bottles that would otherwise end up in landfill. A key product is the full zip baseball-style sweatshirt, the ‘Zippy’, which is ideal for in-between seasons. Manufactured with durable, recycled fabric in a modern unisex style, it can also easily be passed down between siblings.

David Luke’s sustainable journey continues with its eco-uniform range reaching more milestones in 2021. First to the schoolwear market with its Eco-Shirts and blouses in the spring, this latest offer pushes its already extensive eco range of blazers, jackets, trousers, shorts, skirts, polos and sweats, even further. These new products contain 3.5 plastic bottles,

with the polyester content of each shirt and blouse style being 100 per cent recycled. David Luke has also been focusing on improving the impact its packaging makes. Swing ticket quantity has been reduced across all ranges meaning less waste, and 100 per cent recycled and recyclable plastic packaging was introduced on the new Eco-Shirt and blouse range.

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

ACTIVISM IS THE EXTRACURRICULARNEW

‘Kids These Days’ is a new report published by GWI Kids examining the attitudes and views of 8 to 15-year-olds across 14 markets. From climate change to social and racial inequalities, children are becoming increasingly aware of the problems and uncertainties of the world, and they are more than just bystanders.

FURTHER EXPANSION FOR THE MAPED PICNIK COLLECTION

The Maped Picnik collection launched in 2018 to cater for children aged 6 to 11 years who regularly use a lunch box, snack box and water bottle for school, activities or at home. The products are designed to be easy to open, waterproof and anti-spill. They also promote a balanced diet via multi-compartment boxes that are removable, leak-proof, easy to clean and dishwasher safe.

For 2021, Maped Picnik has created a new range with a bright and colourful design. The new Concept Kids Character Collection includes children’s stainless steel water bottles, 3-in-1 lunch boxes and insulated lunch bags.

GWI’s research highlights just how progressive today’s teens are – 44 per cent of 12 to 15-year-olds say caring for the planet is important to them, which is higher up the list than priorities typically associated with teenagers, like caring about what their peers think of them (28 per cent), or having the latest fashion (23 per cent). But what is more important is that they have developed these values into interests.

Pro-environmental behaviours aside, teens’ altruistic nature and their attitudes toward equality also stand out. “Helping people” (61 per cent), “everyone being treated the same” (55 per

cent), and “protecting people from bullying” (45 per cent) are all among the top five statements teens describe as important to them.

Whilst teens’ attitudes and values may change as they get older, given how pronounced they are at this age, GWI believes these values will be the backbone of tomorrow’s consumers.

ECO-SCHOOLS ENGLAND TO LAUNCH NATIONAL ECOCOMMITTEE

NEW WEBSITE FOR WILLIAM TURNER

William Turner, manufacturer and supplier of school ties and accessories, has launched an upgraded website. The digital platform offers a host of new features including MTO ordering, allowing customers to place their special orders online. Live stock levels and an online returns process are also Furthermore,available.customers can view their order status, track deliveries and download order history reports. There is also a live chat function, plus a media hub and an upgraded design studio.

To view the new platform, visit www. william-turner.co.uk. To register for an online account, contact sales@william-turner.co.uk.

A QUALITY INVESTMENT FOR THE PARENTLY GROUP

The Parently Group, whose portfolio of brands include David Luke Schoolwear, has appointed Ryan Cooke as its new quality assurance manager. Cooke’s background includes bespoke tailoring, although his most recent role was in product development at Burberry. At The Parently Group, his responsibilities will include creating a defined department out of the QC team.“We’re currently revamping the QC room to create a designated space for approving colour under consistent lighting and checking faults in more depth in products we have quarantined,” says Cooke. “I envision this space also becoming a ‘technical hub’ for product knowledge, where an up to date and comprehensive sample range will be kept as well as all the approved fabrics and trims for our product range.”

Eco-Schools England is working with OCR (Oxford Cambridge and RSA), one of the leading awarding bodies in the UK, to form a new youth-led National Eco-Committee. The initiative aims to identify the green themes young people want to explore and investigate in theirTheeducation.newNational Eco-Committee will comprise a diverse group of 25 young people aged 10 to 18 years. The founding Honorary Member is Jessie Stevens, a 16-year-old Youth Climate Activist based in South Devon, who will help inspire other young people in England to apply. Between December 2021 and July 2022, Stevens and the 25 National Eco-Committee members will meet online with Eco-Schools manager Lee Wray-Davies, OCR staff and special guests to complete the following tasks: embedding green themes across all existing OCR qualifications and helping non-specialist educators to deliver them; creating national eco-prizes for different OCR curriculum areas; planning and running an online Green Careers week in April 2022; and creating an eco-themed moving up day teacher

Furtherresource.information is available via a new National Eco-Committee Eco-Project section on Eco-Schools England’s website.

National Weaving Company, a British manufacturer established for over 25 years, has introduced several changes to its business as part of a strategy to become more environmentally friendly. Steps the company has already taken include using eco-friendly, compostable polybags where they are necessary, with the aim of reducing its plastic use by 25 per cent by June 2022. It is also gradually transitioning all yarns from manufactured polyester to recycled polyester.

Nametapes, along with all other woven labels, are currently made using at least 50 per cent recycled polyester yarn, with some colours being 100 per cent recycled. However, by June 2022, the company aims to have all nametapes manufactured using 100 per cent recycled yarn.Where possible, any new yarn purchased is 100 per cent recycled, meaning the only manufactured polyester being used is existing stock. Equally, all the business’ printed satin labels use recycled polyester ribbon, which is made from plastic bottles via a UK supplier. Finally, the company’s factory is now being powered by 100 per cent renewable electricity.

START-RITE STEPS UP WITH COLLECTIONVEGAN-FRIENDLY

In the first five days of Veganuary 2021, Lyst, the global fashion search platform, reported a 63 per cent spike in searches for ‘vegan leather’ and ‘eco-friendly’. Coupled with new data suggesting 35 per cent of Generation Z aim to be meat-free in 2021, Start-Rite’s new vegan-friendly school shoe collection couldn’t be timelier.

Enquiries from Start-Rite customers interested in vegan-friendly shoes have increased recently. “Crucially, we recognised the need to support our customers looking for a veganfriendly product that comes with our hallmark high standards when it comes to testing, quality and style,” says Sara Driscoll, head of buying and product at Start-Rite Shoes. “The result is a school shoe collection that is vegan – not just a PU or textile substitute. We even use adhesives with no animal content.”

STEVENSONS – IT’S NOT JUST A FAMILY AFFAIR

Since its inception in 1925, school uniform retailer, Stevensons, has been led by successive generations of the founding Stevenson family –currently joint CEOs and brothers Mark and John Stevenson with the support of their sister, Mary, as finance director. However, Stevensons now has two new directors from outside the family, both of whom are long term employees.

Kelsey Alderman, Stevensons’ first sales director, has built a wealth of knowledge across the business since joining as a summer temp 11 years ago. Gavin Cocksedge, Stevensons’ first commercial director, joined in 2012 as a business development manager and has delivered growth in the number of new schools the company partners with to over 550 across the UK.

“Hopefully all our team can see that we value hard work, determination and that we are ready and prepared to invest in homegrown talent,” says John Stevenson.

CHADWICK TEXTILES RENEWS CHARITY PARTNERSHIP

TIE & SCARF COMPANY

LAUNCHES NEW SERVICE

The Tie & Scarf Company will be launching a ‘Stock Service’ for school ties at The Schoolwear Show in October. There will be a choice of almost 60 colours, which will include 22 equal stripes, 18 singles stripes and 16 double stripes, plus plain colours. The ties will be available in 11” elastic, 45”, 52” and 16” clip-on. There is a minimum of 25pcs per colour/design/size.

The ties can be ordered through the company’s website www.tieandscarf.co.uk, by email and also by phone through the sales team on 0161 761 5151.

Chadwick Textiles worked in partnership with Raleigh International from 2018 to 2020 and in that time much was achieved. The collaboration supported young Tanzanians to plant 360,000 trees, build three community-owned tree nurseries, train young people as Natural Resource Management facilitators and educate over 1,100 community members about sustainable forest management.Chadwick Textiles is now renewing the partnership for another three years to help create a new generation of young leaders to take action and fight the climate crisis in Tanzania and the UK. Continuing the fight against deforestation in Tanzania, Chadwick Textile will support young people to mobilise others to use clean energy sources and plant 130,000 trees by 2024.

In the UK, its support will create 35 Access Fund places for Re:Green, a new UK programme providing financial support to eligible applicants so that young people from a wide range of backgrounds can take part and become young leaders for the environment. The Chadwick team

will also undertake personal environmental action this year, taking on the Tree Planting ActionTheChallenge.company will join the wider Raleigh community in planting over 7,000 trees across the UK to raise awareness about the importance of tree-planting and the global need to improve tree cover.Projects funded by Chadwick Textiles commenced in June 2021 and will continue until June 2024.

Marking a welcome comeback after a two-year hiatus during the Covid pandemic, The Schoolwear Show is once again uniting the industry with its annual trade exhibition. Taking place at Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre in Solihull, this year’s twoday event runs from Sunday 10 October to Monday 11 October. Many of the show’s popular features remain – including free on-site visitor parking and a complimentary lunch – alongside several new services to ensure a safe, comfortable, and productive experience for all.

A key change for The Schoolwear Show this year is the introduction of a booking system, which provides retailers with the option to plan their visit. The facility means that once a visitor’s registration is approved, they receive access to the new appointment system and can pre-book time slots with exhibitors. Visitors will still be able to attend stands on an ad-hoc basis where availability allows, and the booking system will be accessible throughout the duration of the show should visitors wish to make any appointments on the day.

A new, more spacious layout for this year’s show will play host to both new and returning exhibitors including Banner; Cash’s Apparel Solutions UK; Chadwick Textiles; David Luke; Diamond Textiles; Douglas & Grahame/1880 Club; Eskimo Epos; Falcon Sports; Flamingo; Gymphlex; Kwiktapes; Madeira; MagicFit; Marton Mills; National Weaving Company; Net Digitizing; One+All (formerly Rowlinson Knitwear); Pex; POD; SDL/Surridge; Term Footwear; Tie & Scarf Company; Top to Toe; Trutex; Winterbottom’s and William Turner.

The Schoolwear Association will also have a stand at the show, where representatives will be providing information about the Association’s latest work with schools, parents, Department for Education officials and MPs, together with the benefits of membership.

HEALTH & SAFETY AT THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW 2021

The Schoolwear Show team and its venue provider have been working hard to create a Covid-safe show environment that is comfortable, spacious, and promotes the safety and wellbeing of all those who attend.

In line with the event industry guidelines and government regulations on managing the risk of Covid-19 in large-scale events, The Schoolwear Show has added some extra measures for enhanced safety and peace of mind.As with other large UK venues, it is implementing Covid-19 status checks at agreed entry points. When visiting The Schoolwear Show, therefore, visitors should come prepared to show proof of their Covid-19 status.

PREPARING FOR YOUR VISIT

Schoolwear Show visitors can provide proof of their Covid-19 status through one of the following:

• NHS Covid-19 Pass via the NHS App. (This is different to the NHS Covid-19 Test and Trace app.) It is advised you apply no later than 48 hours before attending the show to allow for the application to be processed in time. (Please note, the pass is only available two weeks after completing a full vaccine course and can take up to five days to show on the record).

• NHS Covid Vaccination card with proof of Double Vaccine (only valid two weeks after completing full vaccine course).

• Proof of immunity shown by a positive PCR test result for Covid-19, lasting for 180 days from the date of the positive test and following completion of the self-isolation period. (This is available via the NHS app).

• Lateral flow or PCR negative test results via text or email received within 48 hours before attending the event.

If visitors would prefer not to use the app or do not have a smartphone, they can obtain an NHS Covid-19 Pass letter (proving vaccination status only) by calling 119 or visiting the NHS website. Visitors with a medical exemption should advise a member of staff during the checking process.

COVID-19 SAFETY MEASURES AT THE SHOW

The Schoolwear show and its venue have introduced several measures for the safety and comfort of visitors and exhibitors.

• All visitors will be asked to show proof of Covid-19 status on entry in line with government guidelines.

• For the welfare of staff and visitors, the wearing of face masks is encouraged in all public areas.

• Enhanced cleaning measures have been established, which include increased frequency of cleaning, a focus on high touch point areas, and the use of chemical fogging before and after each event.

• Multiple hand washing and hand sanitiser points are available throughout the venue.

• Please maintain a safe distance from people you are not visiting and avoid direct contact with others.

• A risk assessment is in place with measures determined by government and event industry guidelines.

• Refreshments are available in multiple locations and food is available from the designated dining area.

• Pre-registering and printing your badge, together with contactless payment throughout the venue, will help provide a simpler, contact-free experience.

The Schoolwear Show Cranmore Park, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull West Midlands B90 4LF

Opening Times

Sunday 10 October 2021 • 9:00am - 5:00pm Monday 11 October 2021 • 9:00am - 4:30pm

For further information, to register as a visitor and for the latest safety measure updates, visit www.theschoolwearshow.co.uk.

BUSINESSINSIGHT

CWB speaks to schoolwear suppliers to discover how the pandemic has changed the way they do business together with their views on the general industry landscape.

DANIEL TURNER, Managing director, William Turner

“Like a lot of businesses, the pandemic accelerated our investment in technology. We moved everyone onto laptops and Microsoft Teams and our cloud-based telephone system meant we were able to carry on as usual, even with most of the team working remotely. Having the right tech is only half the story though. To enable working from home (WFH) and Hybrid you need to have a team who are self-reliant, skilled and motivated. I have been so impressed over the last 18 months with our team that we are now extending the option to WFH for another 12 months. Having done it myself, I know that WFH is no easy option, there needs to be a lot of trust both ways.

We also decided early on to ramp up our website as we felt, and still do, that a lasting legacy will be the increase in online. So, we have developed from a simple website into more of a platform where our customers can see so much more information.Clearly,

everyone’s experience has been different, and many have had challenges in the dark days. I think we did a good job of supporting each other, and now have a culture where people feel supported talking about their mental health.

A positive that has come out of these challenging times, for me personally, was having to get back to the very basics. Really getting close to every part of the business during that first month when most of the team were furloughed has given me a greater appreciation of the work the team do and highlighted areas where we can improve. We also worked even harder to keep in touch with customers over so many Zoom calls and regular e-shots. Most of our customers are small independents and I think just feeling connected and the sharing of experiences was appreciated. A bit more flexibility in the work-life balance has meant not leaving home at 7.30am so I can (sometimes!) take my children to school, which has been nice. I still prefer meeting people face-to-face, but online meetings have proven very successful and have saved hundreds of hours in travel time. The lockdowns also made us all appreciate our local and global environment more, and hopefully, a legacy will be businesses continuing to reduce their impacts on the world.

I have a positive outlook about the future, and whilst no one would have chosen to go through what we all have, I believe we will come out of it stronger. Fundamentally, the education

system is on a mission to catch up and uniform has a part to play in that. Local independent businesses have flourished by showing their value to the local community, which I expect to continue. Plus, made in the UK is now not just an environmental benefit but also an operational advantage and more reliable. The school population is forecast to grow over the next few years too, which is positive for us all. As long as we continue to focus on supporting our customers to grow their businesses, and stick to our strengths of making great ties, bags and accessories, we can be excited by what the future holds.Aside

from Covid, challenges facing the wider schoolwear sector include Brexit and the School Uniform Bill, and these are not done with yet. Now there is also the shipping crisis, which is putting pressure on prices and playing havoc with lead times, not just in our sector but across the economy. We all hope it will improve next year but until it does, we have to mitigate the effects by buying UK, buying early and holding deeper stocks. The political environment is still challenging but the work the Schoolwear Association has done over the last two years with MPs, the DfE and the media, has been excellent and

made a real difference. Clearly, the pandemic has had a detrimental impact on disadvantaged families and that’s why it is so important we all put best value at the centre of our offer; not always what is cheapest.

It has been a long slog and what we all really need now is more fun. I hope the trade can soon start enjoying itself again and what better place to start than the Schoolwear Association party after the first day of The Schoolwear Show. I hope to see you there and share stories over a beer.

Finally, I would like to take this opportunity to thank all our customers for their support throughout and assure you that all of us at William Turner and Son are keen to repay that loyalty and help you grow your business in 2022.”

“I still prefer meeting people face-to-face, but online meetings have proven very successful and have saved hundreds of hours in travel time.”

MATTHEW EASTER, Group CEO, Trutex Ltd

“Like most businesses, the pandemic initially resulted in a big change in the way we worked. For the schoolwear industry as a whole, there were periods of extreme uncertainty when schools were closed and the population locked down. However, these periods allowed us time to reflect on what the future would bring and plan accordingly.

We were able to get ourselves set up to operate the business remotely very quickly and have learnt through this process that we don’t actually need to have everyone on-site all the time, which we feel is a positive benefit for everyone. It was also great to see how positively parents and pupils viewed getting back to school after the lockdowns and the strong commitment by the Government to keep schools open above all else.

In terms of future challenges, 2021 has seen extreme disruption and huge cost increases across global supply chains and, frustratingly, it doesn’t look like these issues will be going away any time soon. Raw material cost increases, shipping delays and a sixfold increase in freight rates are likely to feature in 2022, which will undoubtedly put additional strain on all of us. Equally, we have yet to see how schools will react to the new DfE statutory guidance that is going to be issued in the autumn in conjunction with the Uniform Bill that was passed in May this year. In this respect, it is really important that as an industry we are helping schools through this process and reassuring the vast majority of them that they are already doing the right thing.”

IAN MCLAVERTY, Merchandise director, The Parently Group

“Being a responsible business partner over the last 18 months has been fundamental. We have had a responsibility to support every supplier to ensure they could simply continue trading. Surviving lockdowns, working with reduced efficiency, increasing safety procedures, managing late deliveries and congestion at ports are all real-world problems that we have had to overcome working closely with our suppliers throughout the chain. Most important of all is staff safety. Our long-term relationships have enabled us to support our suppliers and we have benefited from reciprocal support when we have needed it.

It appears like the last 18 to 20 months have been the perfect storm to create chaos in all industries. Most supply chains pride themselves on reaction time, but this can only be achieved with careful planning of raw materials (stock holding), manufacturing capacity levels and reactive logistics. Each of these areas has seen and continues to see unprecedented disruption. Communication is the only way to manage our way out of this chaos, so the team find themselves constantly negotiating and searching out solutions to problems that present themselves.

It feels like consumers are only just starting to feel the true impact of Covid on the supply chain. So, how will be responding to the new demands of B2C retail? B2C is still very new for us, but it does allow the opportunity to develop more products - and more exciting products - that might open up new markets for us to explore further. Adapting our infrastructure to ensure we have the resource to get the product range and mix correct, along with getting the stock in on time, will be the key to the success. In practice, this means experimenting with design and testing and increasing our focus on research. There will be a lot of hard work along the way, but we are all committed to making it work, and looking forward to the journey.”

DONALD MOORE, Chair, One+All

“The pandemic accelerated our ability to work remotely, which is good for those fortunate colleagues who can work from home. This flexibility is here to stay for our business. Many colleagues are very happy to have the choice to work from home while also being able to connect with their colleagues using technology or by choosing to come into the office.

We’d invested in mental health training early in 2019 with most colleagues getting trained-up. This meant we were better equipped to cope with the psychological impact of the pandemic as a result of working remotely, furlough, and long periods of time spent apart from family, friends and colleagues. We’ll continue to invest in this all-important training as the pandemic has highlighted how vital it is for supporting colleagues’ mentalWehealth.alsofound that colleagues showed their appreciation and support for each other more than ever during the pandemic, strengthening our company culture and giving us greater resilience during a challenging time. This has created a really strong foundation as we edge out of the pandemic.

In terms of future trials, the greatest challenge facing schoolwear is the rising costs of raw materials and shipping, which we expect to remain extremely high through to 2023. These costs have led to higher retail prices. My concern is that increased schoolwear prices won’t reflect well on the schoolwear market at a time when many consumers are finding it difficult to balance their stretched finances.”

HOWARD WILDER, Sales director, Banner

“First and foremost, the disruption and delays to our supply chain have had a huge impact on the business, our customers and the schools and parents we serve together. That has played out most tangibly in the disruptions to the Back to School period, and despite tireless efforts on our part, we know that this is deeply frustrating to our retailers. In this sense, the pandemic has shaped almost everything we have done over the last 18 months.But

looked at more positively, the pandemic has not so much changed Banner as helped us to focus on what’s most critical to our customers, our people, and our wider stakeholders. At times of greatest challenge, it’s invariably people that make the biggest difference. The commitment of our teams, their desire to help each other and our customers, and their working to our values has been inspiring. We should not underestimate the impact this has in the longer term for customers and suppliers too. The pandemic has reminded us all that nothing can be taken for granted and that we must always make service to our customers our priority.

Planning to deliver the best service possible has played a big part in both how we coped and how we have emerged. Our determination to deliver great service in what has been hugely challenging circumstances has required us to look again at every aspect of our operations, asking what changes are temporary and which will be with us indefinitely. This is why we’ve increased investment in stock, improved communication to customers through initiatives such as Insight magazine, and, despite the worldwide difficulties, built closer cooperation with supplier and supply chain partners. Like most companies, we’ve had to embrace more home working, which requires a different approach to supporting and ensuring positive team dynamics and individual wellbeing.

In terms of supply, we’ve set some challenging targets that will make a big improvement to future service. For example, for next year’s Back to School, we’re working to have 90 per cent of the plain stock in our warehouse by April - that’s earlier than ever before to mitigate any potential supply chain delays. It’s also a huge investment in customer service and our most trusted suppliers. Looking further ahead, the pandemic has reinforced our commitment to sustainability goals. It’s clearer than ever just how interconnected we are as a supply chain, but more than this we’ve taken time to listen to schools and students. The desire to work together is a message that comes through loud and clear and being a force for good - both for the environment and the communities we all serve - is going to be a key part of Banner’s future. On a similar note, the disruption to education last year has reminded the wider public (and politicians) of the vital role schools play in our communities and in supporting the smooth running of our society. If this leads to greater investment, greater awareness, and greater respect for the fantastic job our schools and their teachers do, then that must be a good thing.

It’s been said that the pandemic has accelerated and

concentrated changes that would likely have come in any event - our overriding goal has been to move in a direction that delivers solutions for today but is also sustainable over time. I’d say we are more conscious than ever of working in partnership with our customers to get ahead of the curve. The level of advance ordering and extending of the Back to School period is a testament to this and a development we anticipate will continue for the foreseeable future.

In terms of the future, I’m optimistic. I sense that parents have never been happier that schools are getting back to normal, that teachers desperately want the same, and that we all want to end and reverse the disruption to education these last 18 months. Schoolwear suppliers have an important role to play in this bigger picture. In many ways, there’s never been a better time for young people to wear their uniforms and sports kits with pride. The education tender bill brings opportunity in that it helps to draw attention to the benefits of uniform, but we know it also creates concerns and administration for schools and retailers. That’s why we’ve introduced our Media Hub and built content to make it simple for retailers to submit highly professional tenders. I’m optimistic that we can support our partners so that the new legislation works for everyone and that together we can continue to grow and prosper as specialists in schoolwear. Finally, returning to people, there is a universal commitment to a brighter future. From our warehouse to our boardroom - and dozens of offices and home workspaces in between - we

are all looking forward, embracing changes, and feeling positive about the opportunities ahead. From a demand perspective, we have come through this pandemic with pleasing resilience. And while the supply side remains currently challenged, the lessons we learn will undoubtedly further improve our service in future.

In the short term, the challenges to the industry are well known: continuing worldwide shipping issues; continuing Covid-19 outbreaks in many Far Eastern and Asian manufacturing countries; the need to communicate more regularly with schools and parents; and the risk of any return to restrictions that might hinder or reverse the progress we have made together. Longer-term, there remains the constant need to promote the virtues of quality schoolwear, reinforcing the benefits it brings to inclusion, pride in community and wellbeing at school. As suppliers, our challenge is to keep pace with changes in expectations, ensuring we offer a truly contemporary range, competitively priced and sustainably sourced. That’s more than enough to keep us all busy.”

“The commitment of our teams, their desire to help each other and our customers, and their working to our values has been inspiring.”

INSIGHTRETAIL

BRAD HUTCHINSON, Director, Whittakers Schoolwear

“This year’s Back to School was fine; a very steady return to business similar to that of 2019, pre-Covid. We did have a peak this year, but not like before. This was partly due to having a busy period after spring, so we are expecting a busier October and January too. This disruption to when customers buy school uniform is purely down to Covid and should return to normal in 2022.Last year was obviously quite different. Like many schoolwear retailers, we had an appointment system to spread business out across the summer, preventing the traditional last-minute peak. This year we took the option away for customers to book appointments. Now it is no longer a necessity, we find it works better not to enforce appointments.

Back to School sales were good and generally ran smoothly. Since Covid, where pupils could wear P.E kit all day if they had a P.E lesson, we have seen strong sales in hoodies and tracksuit pants. We weren’t sure if this trend would continue for 2021, but it has, and they sold very well again, particularly tracksuit pants. I think it’s a trend that’s here to stay.

There were some stock issues and delayed deliveries this year, which took a lot of organising to sort out. The problem was there was no solid information on delivery dates, and then once here, there were further complications due to the national shortage of delivery drivers. The impact of the Suez Canal blockage is still having an impact too. To compensate for late deliveries, we ended up buying some UK stock.

Staffing has also been trickier than in the past. During Covid, we could only have a handful of staff members in-store, so numbers were considerably reduced. This year, we didn’t have the usual pool of returnees to call upon over Back to School and had to train up new ones.

Online sales have been interesting. Pre-Covid, online accounted for around 4 per cent of our sales, which increased to about 20 per cent in 2020. We expected that figure to drop this year, but it has remained around the same as 2020. Overall, the pandemic has really kicked the schoolwear industry off in terms of online. This might dwindle by next Back to School because when it comes to school uniform shopping, especially for new starters, customers generally want it to be tried on in-store.

With all retailers shifting more business online since the pandemic, there have been some issues with couriers and getting stock out to customers reliably and on time. To overcome this, we bought our own vehicles – one for each store – and started running an in-house courier service for online orders. We hired drivers over July, August and the start of September and will be running the same service again for next Back to School.

After seeing a lot less of people since the pandemic, the upcoming Schoolwear Show and Schoolwear Association evening will be great opportunities to catch up with suppliers to discuss this year and the year ahead.”

School uniform retailers discuss this year’s Back to School.

JEMMA BROWN,

Company director, OHM Clothing

“This year’s Back to School was quite fraught. The impact of both the global pandemic and Brexit, with stock stuck in containers all over the world, made it really hard work. We publish our stats each year regarding what we’ve achieved in terms of order fulfilment. We’re normally around 98 per cent on time for production and delivery, so it will be interesting to see what this year actually looks like. However, we have sold significantly more than we did this time last year. Parents and carers are buying new again, without the pressure of not knowing if their children are going back to school or not this year. As we approach autumn, hoodies and fleeces also remain in hot demand due to schools planning to keep windows and doors open for ventilation.”

www.ohmclothing.co.uk

STEVE OPTIX, Director, Brenda’s Schoolwear

“This year’s Back to School was unusual. The trials and tribulations of going 100 per cent online last summer paid off this year. At the start of this summer, we had no clue how much trade was going to stay online - 20 or 80 per cent? We now have our answer, 60 per cent, and we’re very happy with that. We also introduced a new phone system and dedicated handling of customer emails this summer, as well as numerous behind the scenes changes that much improved our customer service and speed of response. At one point we were down 10 members of staff, either with Covid or in isolation, including the store manager and supervisor. However, our fantastic team pulled together and nailed it.

This year we brought forward our cut-off point to 14 August which brought much of the trade forward, spreading it more evenly across July and August. There was a consistent level of trade after the cut-off too, from the expected number of customers that didn’t see the message and the usual last-minute buyers.

We generally sold the same popular generic items as we do each year, although we did have a new sports range by Surridge Sports for one of our private schools. We had some stock delivery and availability issues across several suppliers, both of forward ordered stock and incidentals, but we are fully aware and sympathetic of the logistics and manufacturing delays faced by all. If it wasn’t for that, we think it would’ve been our smoothest summer on record. Customers were much more understanding than the previous summer too.”

www.brendas.co.uk

SEAN FOSTER, Managing director, Fosters Schoolwear

“Interestingly, we had our best-ever Back to School this year. There were challenges with stock that couldn’t be helped and keeping up to date with deliveries of stock was difficult, sometimes the suppliers didn’t know themselves. But we were well organised, and our pre-planning really paid off. We are currently forecast to have our best financial year to Wedate.have also made several changes this year that really helped. Considering the Uniform Bill and the fact our growth has been organic for the last 11 years - gaining new business only through recommendations and word of mouth - we are now taking a more proactive approach. One of the ways we are doing this is through the appointment of our first salesperson. We are also reaping the rewards of taking on a business performance specialist in January as well as a marketing company, which will be working on new ideas in areas such as customer engagement and incentives for schools.

Apps are something else we are exploring. MySizeID offers sizing tool technology that you can buy as a bolt-on for a website, but also as an app. Through a few simple movements recorded on a smartphone, it can generate 99 per cent accurate sizing. We are currently thinking about offering this app, but also taking the age down so that it caters from 3 to 4 years as it currently starts at age 14. The real benefit of this investment would be to our online business - which is 45 per cent of our sales - by reducing the number of returns. While our returns were down this year, we would like to wipe them out completely and this technology would help us do that.Some other aims are developing our computer system and website and becoming paperless. We are also actively looking for new premises and additional stores. Ultimately, our overall mission across the next 12 to 24 months is to push the boundaries - of our business, and all that is schoolwear.

As soon as you finish one Back to School, you move straight on to the next. Our buying team are now gearing up for The Schoolwear Show, some of whom haven’t attended before, so it will be a great opportunity for them to experience a trade show, meet suppliers and see the latest products for Back to School 2022.”

www.fostersschoolwear.co.uk

ZECO BOOSTS ITS BESPOKE BUSINESS

Family-led school uniform supplier, Zeco, places a spotlight on made to order.

Alongside a wide range of generic school products stocked yearround, Zeco has been offering made to order school uniform for many years. Following a long period working with its existing factories to develop the bespoke fabrics and trims, Zeco is now making this arm of the business official with a new ‘bespoke’ information hub on its website and a made to order section within the 2021 company’sCommentingcatalogue.ontheoriginalmotivation to

move into bespoke production is Zeco’s sales director, Ravi Taheam. “After hearing some negative stories from our customers about how they had been let down by other suppliers, we felt we could do better and give them the service they deserve. Touch wood, we have been doing okay. Hopefully, customers are happy with the quality of garments and the service we provide.”

The made to order business targets four main product ranges: blazers, shirts and blouses, knitwear and tartans. Zeco has set up a dedicated section on its website where retailers can create a bespoke uniform as per the schools’ requirements. They can also call the company’s sales team for assistance or to confirm anything they’re unsure about.

In terms of blazers, Zeco offers nine styles in a wide selection of stock and non-stock fabric and lining colours. There is also a choice of braid colour and cord options, contrast fabric and colours, trim positions, and embroidery. Furthermore, all polyester bespoke blazers will be made from 100 per cent recycled outer fabric, with each of the blazers saving an average of 34 nonbiodegradable PET plastic bottles from going to landfill. The one exception is the marl grey shades, which are not yet available in eco fabric.The company’s bespoke shirts and blouses come in a choice of two shirt styles and four blouses, as well as four revere collar blouse options: all available in plain, printed Broadstripe, or woven check. The bespoke knitwear range, meanwhile, comprises a V-neck, a cardigan and a sleeveless jumper in the choice of 100 per cent acrylic or 50 per cent cotton / 50 per cent acrylic. Customers can then choose their base colour and the stripe colour and position.

Zeco’s range of UK made tartans are proving particularly popular this year, with retailers attracted to the short lead times as well as the large range of stocked fabrics. Another selling point of the tartans is that they are all made from eco poly-viscose fabric - on average, each tartan recycles five plastic bottles to make the polyester for the fabric. The viscose is also made using sustainably sourced wood and manufactured using processes that minimise waste.As well as offering eco fabrics, Zeco is working on other areas of its sustainable initiative, including reducing the company’s energy and waste. To support this, it separates all waste so only the minimum is sent to landfill. Plus, any garments deemed unfit for sale or other use are given to a local charity shop, Barnardo’s, or are sent to be used in developing countries. Zeco also re-uses any cardboard from the transportation of its garments and what can’t be reused is given to Edwards Recycling, a local firm that recycles 100 per cent of what Zeco passes on.

Alongside promoting its bespoke business, Zeco has also been heavily investing in increasing its stock capacity. “Nowadays stock is king, and in this industry, it never seems to be enough,” concludes Taheam. “Pallet racking has been especially helpful in making this possible, as we are now utilising our space much better.”

IT’S ALL IN THE NAME

CWB learns more about Rowlinson Knitwear’s rebrand to One+All.

The decision to rebrand a business can be down to many reasons including changes to management, new goals, products or values, mergers, acquisitions, and international growth. For One+All, formerly Rowlinson Knitwear, there were two key drivers. The first was becoming a Certified B Corporation, a clear signal that the company exists for the good of everyone. The second was becoming 100 per cent employee-owned after the founding Rowlinson family transferred full ownership.“Itfelt like the perfect time to change our name to something that truly reflects what we’re all about,” confirms Neil Ward, MD of One+All. “Caring for everyone we work with and having a positive impact in the world is what we have been all about for many years now. Our customers are already familiar with our longstanding ethical ethos, but we think the new company name will help them to understand how everything we do fits together.”

One+All may be a new name, but as Ward states, the values of ‘trust, care and be better’ are well-established and have been at the heart of the business for a very long time. “We care deeply about every one of our customers, every one of the children that wear our garments, every colleague we work with - here in the UK and our supply chain - and we care about looking after our planet.”

Due to the nature of One+All’s business - holding large quantities of stock and buying early to increase the chance of better supply through Back to School - it will take time for the rebrand to complete across all products. It is, however, already present across several areas of the company including the business’ social media channels, day-to-day communications and new schoolwear brochure. It will also be showcased on the One+All stand at this year’s Schoolwear Show and via a new website.

THE BIGGER PICTURE

Alongside the rebrand, One+All is making advancements in other areas too. The company is seeing major growth in its blazer and jacket business, a relatively new venture launched just two years ago. It also recently introduced a new online ordering system, which is strictly business to business and designed to support retailers.

“We do not and will not supply direct, it’s our customer charter and we are proud to support retailers in this way,” confirms Ward. “We feel we are trusted in the market to do the right thing and that our care shines through in all we do. Our mission is to be the leading supplier of schoolwear to our customers that are the authorised stockists for schools.”

Despite One+All’s customer satisfaction being over 98 per cent, the ambition is there to continue improving the service offered and to be even quicker and easier to work with. The business is also responding to customer demand to supply more ranges. Several additional products are planned, including school ties launching for the new season. The One+All tie range is made from 100 per cent recycled polyester and comprises 53 colour combinations across three lengths and styles - wide, narrow and twin stripe. Made to order ties will also be available, including bespoke combinations of colours and jacquard ties that include a school

“Weemblem.believe that the products we make - school uniform garments - benefit every child that wears them through a sense of pride and belonging,” concludes Ward. “However, the best thing is how they are made, and the difference that can make. At every step of our products’ journeys, we aim to do the right thing for our customers, our people, our partners, and the planet. As everything we do is about One+All, the name is a perfect fit.”

NEIL WARD MD,

BYSCHOOLBOBUX

Leading children’s footwear brand, Bobux, launches its first full school shoe collection for 2021.

While Bobux may be lesser known in the schoolwear market, it has been a leading name in quality children’s shoes for 30 years. Founded in 1991 by Chris Bennett, Bobux started life in New Zealand specialising in soft sole infant shoes. Six years later, the brand was present in Australia, Europe and the US.

In 2002, the team grew beyond the Bennett family with the addition of lead designer Nicola Williamson. With Williamson onboard Bobux moved beyond soft soles, introducing the Step Up range for first walkers and the I-Walk range for toddlers. Shortly after saw the launch of custom lasts and the introduction of SplashTEX, a new internal waterproof membrane technology. As children grew through its range, Bobux continued stepping up to meet demand, including the introduction of Kid+ in 2017. This brings us to now and the brand’s latest chapter – the new School by Bobux collection.

“We at Bobux love kids,” says lead designer, Nicola Williamson. “Even before they take their first steps, we are designing shoes perfect for every stage of their foot development. We want to be there every step of the way as the kids grow and develop their feet. This is why we are now including shoes to take their growth into school. We have created a school shoe collection that celebrates the best of Bobux design philosophy.

“Our mission was to design a collection of school shoes from the sole up. Providing natural foot movement that is comfortable, durable, stylish and cool, while still using quality materials and premium leathers that kids love to wear. Each design has been built by refining the last shape of our Kid+ stage, taking years of learning and feedback to make an even more comfortable profile that kids love.”

Whilst school shoes have always been a small part of Bobux’s offering, a/w 21 brings the debut launch of an entire collection with new features designed to withstand the extra demands of all-day school wear.

School by Bobux is available in sizes 27-33 EU / 9-1 UK

and includes premium, patent and coated black leathers. Styles are The Venture, a classic dress shoe; The Leap, a sporty and stylish option; The Quest, an understated Mary Jane style; The Journey, a Mary Jane with scallop detailing; and The Brave, a classic T-bar

shoe.Key

features are a new custom last for more refined styling and extra tough hook-and-loop straps. As an added extra, there is also a space to allow a child’s name to be written on each shoe. Fresh innovations, meanwhile, include the highly durable Kid+ BBX Rubber Sole unit, which is flexible, lightweight, non-marking and has a herringbone pattern for increased grip.

“All our school shoes will include a brand-new purposedesigned and developed sole,” confirms Williamson. “We decided to use rubber to give the sole greater durability and increased grip. The overall sole design is based on our Bobux philosophy of zero drop, which allows for greater ground feel and provides the best natural movement for kids. It’s durable, modern and made from flexible rubber that not only looks great but withstands everyday wear.”An all-new removable innersole also features throughout the collection. Offering a premium leather outer for breathability and durability, and an EVA and memory foam inner for comfort and shock absorbance, the innersole is removable for size adjustment and offers left and right shoe identifiers to help younger children.

“The removable innersole also means that it can be easily cleaned, and it allows parents to check the fitting is correct as the child grows,” adds Williamson.

Bobux is looking to target new retailer partnerships with its extended school footwear offer, as well as grow its existing ones. The School by Bobux collection is also set to expand very soon due to popular

“Creatingdemand.apurposely designed school shoe collection has been a dream of ours for many years,” concludes Williamson. “We are so excited to see it in the market and on kids’ feet.”

As this year’s Back to School period comes to a close, Matthew Easter and Mark Stevenson, co-chairs of the Schoolwear Association, reflect on an unusual year and discuss their perspectives on 2022 and the upcoming changes in legislation for school uniforms.

This year did not get off to a great start for the schoolwear industry, with the lockdown in January and February driving a feeling of uncertainty as to what lay ahead for the peak summer months. Whilst retailers endured yet another period of keeping their doors closed, behind the scenes suppliers were battling the impacts of local production restrictions and shipping/freight delays once goods were ready. A feeling that this situation would ease after Chinese New Year was soon quashed by the blockage in the Suez Canal, which continues to have ripple effects even today.

With this in mind, we both feel that everyone in our industry deserves credit that we have been able to clothe the nation’s children in uniform once again this year, and we wanted to take this opportunity to extend our thanks to you all for working together in the face of challenging circumstances.

Aside from the direct impacts of the pandemic, we have once again had to combat negative press and pressure from certain groups that continue to publish exaggerated claims around the cost of school uniform.

This has been particularly relevant in 2021 given the passage of the Uniform Bill in Parliament, which was passed into law in May and will become ‘effective’ once the new Department for Education (DfE) uniform guidelines are published in the autumn. We spoke with a large number of MPs and relevant groups through this process, and also maintained close contact with the DfE.

However, a fundamental challenge remains on the perception of what school uniform costs. Our latest report on abolishing the proposed VAT paid by parents on school uniforms reveals that English parents are now paying £93 on average for their secondary school-specific day uniform and sportswear (down from £101 last year), which equates to just £33 per year on average, as some items are not replaced every 12 months. However, parents are also paying close to £9million in VAT each year for school-specific uniforms, averaging out to a total of £2,604 in VAT per school across England’s 3,456 secondary schools.

This is why we are campaigning to abolish the VAT paid by parents on school uniforms, which unfairly burdens parents whose

children require larger garments. We believe in creating a fairer tax system for all involved as well as encouraging a more inclusive market for schools and parents so that no one is unjustly penalised.

Over the course of the next few weeks and months, we will continue to work closely with schools and parents, as well as our Schoolwear Association members, DfE officials and MPs across Parliament, to ensure that our industry continues to be fairly represented at all levels. We will also push for the abolishment of VAT through our campaign and would encourage you to sign and circulate our petition.

More so than ever, we believe that the wider industry and our members should rally together so that we can continue to provide high-quality and long-lasting uniform to all.

Matthew Easter and Mark Stevenson, co-chairs of the Schoolwear Association.

For more information about how to join the Schoolwear Association visit www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk or scan the QR code.

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REPORT: ENVIRONMENTAL AND WASTE PRACTICES

Experts at law firm Womble Bond Dickinson discuss how businesses’ environmental practices are coming under increasing scrutiny following the recent ITV News investigation into Amazon’s waste removal and destruction policies.

Despite Amazon’s response that it is working towards a goal of zero product disposal, the power of images of unopened goodsincluding laptops and books being destroyed - should not be underestimated. Amazon is now facing increased public and political scrutiny of its environmental and waste practices.

“While the ITV investigation focuses on the alleged practices at Amazon, the issues raised by the investigation and the response from government will be of interest to manufacturers, retailers, online marketplaces, and all businesses handling or disposing of waste,” confirms Ian Newcombe, litigation partner at Womble Bond

InDickinson.responseto the investigation, The Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) reminded businesses of their legal duties. “When handling or disposing of waste, businesses have a legal duty to adhere to the waste hierarchy. This means businesses should first seek to prevent waste (e.g., via donations), and if that is not feasible, then they should try to prepare the waste for re-use, or failing that, for recycling. Only if none of these options are viable should waste be sent to energy recovery or landfill. Failure to meet the legal obligation to take all reasonable steps to apply the waste hierarchy on the transfer of waste can lead to enforcement action.”

Francesca Hodgson, regulatory director at Womble Bond Dickinson, adds, “In addition to the waste hierarchy referred to by DEFRA, all businesses need to be aware that when it comes to waste, out of sight is not out of mind, at least insofar as potential enforcement action. Anyone handling controlled waste is subject to the waste duty of care. This includes a requirement to take all reasonable steps to prevent unlawful disposal and, when transferring waste to another person, to ensure an accurate description is provided and that the person has the correct authorisation.”DavinaWatson, practice development lawyer at Womble Bond Dickinson, says, “Businesses’ environmental practices and ESG performance are coming under increasing scrutiny, not just from the press and NGOs, but equally from government, regulators, investors and consumers. Just looking at the environmental issues hitting the headlines recently shows the momentum behind holding companies to account for their environmental performance.”

RECENT ISSUES INCLUDE:

1. Governments being willing to legislate and impose tougher anti-waste laws

For example, in January this year the French government passed a wide-ranging anti-waste law covering any consumer goods that can be donated without risk to health or safety. It bans the destruction of unsold or returned items. This legislation was promised by the French junior environment minister after French TV showed images similar to that broadcast by ITV of containers of Amazon goods being sent to be destroyed.

2. Climate change litigation is on the rise as NGOs and citizens

seek to hold companies to account for their environmental impact

As seen in the recent landmark ruling by the Netherlands court that Royal Dutch Shell has a duty of care to reduce not only its CO2 emissions but also a ‘best-efforts obligation’ to reduce the emissions of its suppliers and customers by net 45 per cent (compared to 2019 levels), by the end of 2030.

3.Increased scrutiny by Regulators

Southern Water was recently fined a record £90 million for pollution offences and multiple breaches of environmental law following the Environment Agencies largest-ever criminal investigation. And before this, an Ofwat investigation resulted in Southern Water paying a £3 million fine and £123 million in rebate payments to customers for serious regulatory failings and deliberately misreporting its performance.

4. Investment decisions are influenced by companies’ ESG policies and performance

There is a growing trend of companies being challenged by their shareholders. Recently, two ExxonMobil board seats were won by a small climate activist hedge fund. Pensions funds, fund managers and private investors are increasingly influenced by ESG metrics.

5. Increased public pressure and media scrutiny

Companies facing campaigns/legal action by environment groups and shareholders, even on a relatively small scale, are coming under an increasing amount of public scrutiny and media coverage. The impact of the ITV Amazon investigation shows the amount of pressure that can be placed on companies by public and media scrutiny.

SO, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR BUSINESSES IN THE UK?

• Retailers, manufacturers and online marketplaces should prepare for tougher UK and EU environmental regulation, particularly around the disposal of unwanted or unsellable products.

• Businesses are advised to regularly review their environmental practices and policies to ensure they are meeting all relevant legislation. They should also scrutinise their corporate statements and commitments on climate change, as following the Royal Dutch Shell judgment, shareholders and activists may be encouraged to consider them binding corporate commitments rather than ‘corporate targets/aspirations’.

• Does your business have an up-to-date environmental specific critical incident plan to ensure effective management of environmental incidents should something go wrong?

• Does ESG form an integral part of your business culture and decision-making process at all levels of the organisation?

Knowing what ESG means for your business and the behaviour expected of all staff, suppliers and key stakeholders, will be critical for businesses facing increased scrutiny of their environmental impact and the risk of environmental/climate change litigation.

www.womblebonddickinson.com/uk

Available in elasticated, 45”, 52” and 16” clip-on, with a choice of almost 60 colours, covering equal, single, double stripes and plain, plus our usual bespoke ties service. OL10 2TS 0161 761 5151 Email: tieandscarf@chaytow.com Web: www.tieandscarf.co.uk

B Banner 0333 7000 888 www.schoolwear.banner.co.uk

BabyBamba 07921 646464 www.babybamba.com

B for Bert 07939 204893 www.bforbert.com

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Blue Mouse Agency 07902 873684 www.bluemouseagency.com

Boo Chew 07590 404535 www.boochew.com

Bobux 0045 2020 7478 www.bobux.co.uk

C Chadwick Textiles 0161 927 2565 www.chadwicktextiles.co.uk

Charles Kirk 0116 277 3336 www.charleskirk.co.uk

D Dotte hello@wearedotte.com www.wearedotte.com

Douglas & Grahame / 1880 Club 028 9332 7777 www.1880club.com

E Etta Loves hello@ettaloves.com www.ettaloves.com

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G Gymphlex 0116 255 6326 www.gforcesportswear.co.uk

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Inside Out Toys 01908 969969 www.insideouttoys.co.uk

K Kids o’Clock www.kidsoclock.co.uk

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L Lilly + Sid customerservice@lillyandsid.com www.lillyandsid.com

M Maped 01384 286860 www.mapedhelix.co.uk

N National Weaving 01834 861 446 www.nationalweaving.co.uk

O One+All 0161 4777791 www.oneandall.co.uk

P Pachamama 0208 2691550 www.pachamamaknitwear.com

Pickbu 07989 415706 www.pickbu.com

Poco Nido hello@poconido.com www.poconido.com

Poppet & Fox 07902 873684 www.bluemouseagency.com

R Rex London 020 8746 1700 www.rexlondontrade.com

S Start-Rite 01603 595 200 www.startriteshoes.com

Styled to Sparkle 07731 www.styledtosparkle-kidshome.co.uk575114

T The Childrenswear Association B2B Marketplace 020 7843 9488 www.marketplace.ncwa.co.uk

The Den Kit Company 01694 751733 www.thedenkitco.com

Tie & Scarf Company 0161 761 5151 www.tieandscarf.co.uk

The Little Sock Company 07435 650521 www.thelittlesockcompany.com

The Nest 0800 688 9680 www.thenest.uk.com

The Parently Group www.parentlygroup.cominfo@parentlygroup.com

The Tur-Shirt Company 07368 912068 www.theturshirtcompany.co.uk

Trutex 01200 421 206 www.trutex.com

Two Little Mice 07715 881433 www.2littlemice.com/wholesale

W Wilder Waves hello@wilderwaves.com www.wilderwaves.com

William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.william-turner.co.uk

Z Zeco 01708 739 390 www.zecoschoolwear.co.uk

Zeynep Textiles 07490 389835 www.zeynep.com.tr/en

Zizo 00353 85736 8845 www.zizo.ie

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MAKE CWB YOUR SOURCE OF ESSENTIAL INDUSTRY INFORMATION - IT’S THE TOOL OF THE CHILDRENSWEAR TRADE.

CWB is the only UK trade magazine dedicated exclusively to the childrenswear industry. Read by independent retailers, department stores, manufacturers, agents and suppliers, it is an essential business tool for anyone involved in the childrenswear trade. Through its links with The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) and the Schoolwear Association (SA), CWB offers a forum for UK retailers, manufacturers and agents to exchange information, making CWB the number-one place to get your voice heard.

Complemented by its website cwb-online.co, CWB magazine will keep you abreast of key business issues and essential industry updates as well as offering fashion and trade show coverage, brand profiles, stock ideas and the latest news and views from the world of children’s fashion and independent retail.

SUBSCRIPTION (4 ISSUES PER YEAR)

CHILDRENSWEAR ASSOCIATION MEMBER (NCWA) / SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION MEMBER £20 (UK/Ireland price) £40 (Postal address outside UK/Ireland)

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TALKING POINT DONALD MOORE

Chair of One+All

To code or not to code? Donald Moore, Chair of B Corp schoolwear supplier One+All, discusses QR codes on schoolwear and whether they will become the norm.

The need for greater supply chain transparency is gaining momentum. Organisations are increasingly being held responsible for their supply chain operations and what is or isn’t being done ethically or sustainably. This is especially the case in the garment industry. The result is that responsible manufacturers are finding ways to prove the ethical and sustainability credentials of their products, with the introduction of QR codes on garments aiding supply chain traceability. Could the use of QR codes be the future for all garments, including schoolwear, and what might it mean for schoolwear procurers?

Why the need for more supply chain traceability?

Consumers are savvier than ever about where their clothes have come from, especially the younger generation who are more likely to purchase from ethical and purpose-led brands. This has led to the rise of the ethical and eco-conscious

consumer.With high profile modern slavery accusations aimed at some of the leading fast-fashion retailers, the garment industry has been forced to respond with greater transparency and traceability. To better manage their reputation, they are increasingly identifying and addressing labour and human rights violations as well as environmental impacts, with some embracing more ethical and sustainable production practices in pursuit of doing the right thing for both people and planet. Transparency and traceability are now imperative for the garment industry, building trust with consumers while ensuring safety and compliance throughout the supply chain.

QR codes in fashion - how are they improving traceability? QR codes and similar technologies have been embraced by the fashion industry for storytelling. Danish brand Ganni collaborated with Levi to introduce jeans that are available for rent, with the idea being that the garments get better with wear. Using a QR code like technology, each item’s story is shared so that renters can see who has worn each piece before them.

Although such an approach adds romanticism to a brand, it’s now far more common to see the use of QR codes for supply chain storytelling, with designers tapping into the power of QR codes to demystify the supply chain and provide detailed traceability. By including QR codes on each garment’s care label, it is given a digital passport that allows consumers to find out where each garment was made and, in some cases, its full lifecycle from field to shop. The codes may even include information such as the item’s environmental impact, and tips on how to best wash and then dispose of the item at the end of its life.

QR codes on schoolwear garments

So, are QR codes on schoolwear garments the natural next step, and is such an approach necessary for driving a more ethical and sustainable supply chain? Although not in the public eye in the same way as leading fashion brands, schoolwear suppliers are just as impacted by the rise of the ethical and eco-conscious consumer. Customers are increasingly questioning where and how their school uniform has been made and it’s the responsibility of schoolwear suppliers to be fully transparent about their supply chains. And as transparency breeds accountability, greater traceability will likely lead to positive changes both ethically and environmentally.

The use of QR codes on the care labels of school garments can prove ethics and the environment have been considered in their production. An important tool in a school supplier’s armoury, QR codes can enable wearers to find out which factory the garment was made in together with background information about that factory, such as the total number of employees, gender split and working conditions. Such easily accessible supply chain information will not only build trust between the supplier, customer and wearer but will set the schoolwear supplier apart as a company that cares for its workers, customers, and the planet.

The role of QR codes in schoolwear procurement

Schools genuinely care about ethics and sustainability. More and more schools include questions about this on their school uniform tender documents, requiring schoolwear buyers to respond to the growing demand for more ethically and sustainably produced garments. The use of QR codes for supply chain traceability provides procurers with the answers they need quickly and easily while supporting the ethical consumer’s needs. They also provide evidence of a purpose-driven brand that cares about doing the right thing rather than a brand that greenwashes and glosses over its ethical credentials (or lack of!).

QR codes – becoming the norm

Far from the latest fad, QR codes are an important tool in delivering supply chain traceability. And as parents and their children begin to learn the story behind where and how their school uniform has been made, the use of QR codes and equivalent technologies will only grow in popularity and necessity, becoming an expected addition to a school uniform care label rather than a welcome surprise. One+All is introducing QR codes to its schoolwear garments in Sept/Oct 2021, providing increased supply chain traceability. www.oneandall.co.uk.