Crown City Magazine January 2021

FORKS & CORKS

Night & Day Cafe 75 Years of Theatrical Art OTB with Chef Clyde

JANUARY 2021

IN FOCUS | CORONADO SUNRISE BY WILLIAM WILLIS

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IN FOCUS: By William Willis

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A NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHERS: Cheers to New Beginnings

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LOCAL BUZZ: Search Local Happenings in Real Time

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OTB BUCKET LIST: Over the Bridge to Little Italy

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PEOPLE: Culinary Entrepreneur David Spatafore

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CROWN CITY HISTORY: Local Restaurants Past & Present

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IN THE KITCHEN: A trip to the Assenti Market with Chef Clyde

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ISLAND GIRL: Essentials for Working from Home

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LIFESTYLE: Bungalow 56 shares Before & After Remodels

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FORKS & CORKS: Christine Van Tuyl Reviews Night & Day Cafe

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ARTS: Coronado Playhouse Celebrates 75 Years!

Front Cover: The front of Night & Day Cafe when its façade, that still stands today, was first built around 1954. Check out this month's Forks & Corks restaurant review by Christine Van Tuyl on page 40 to learn all about this timeless, classic hometown cafe and current owners Jody & Hector Esquer.

Photo Courtesy of Jody Esquer | On Instagram @nightandday92118 In Focus (pages 2 & 3): Photographer William Willis captured this stunning view of the Yacht Club Marina and the historic Coronado Boathouse with a gorgeous sunrise as a backdrop. Originally built in 1887, The Boathouse was constructed as practice for builders before they built the Hotel Del Coronado. Today it’s been long established as one of San Diego’s favorite restaurants. Formerly The Chart House, it was owned by Coronado local Marty Jensen, and is presently owned & operated by the good folks of Bluewater Boathouse Seafood Grill & offering the best in fresh, sustainable seafood, a dog-friendly patio and boat docking! What a shot, William!

Photo Credit: William Edwin Willis | Website: williamedwinwillis.com | Instagram @williamedwinwillis | Facebook: William Edwin Willis Fine Art Gallery Back Cover: Coronado’s own Alisa Kerr snapped this shot on Nov. 7, 2020 at 8:35 a.m. from a luxury condo at Coronado Shores. Alisa notes that this is a “welcome reminder that after a storm comes the rainbow.” After a stormy year like 2020, we are hoping for rainbows in 2021!

Photo Credit: Alisa Kerr | On Instagram as @alisa92118 6

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PHOTO BY WILL HOLDER PHOTOGRAPHY

CONTENTS & CREDITS | JANUARY 2021

J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 1 | Vo l u m e 4 I s s u e 1

PUBLISHER | Amy Slack amy@crowncitypublishing.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER | Heather Canton heather@crowncitypublishing.com

EDITOR | Heather Canton heather@crowncitypublishing.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR | Gina Falletta Design SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER | Gina Falletta Design COPY EDITORS Alex Larratt, Rose Wojnar CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Clyde Van Arsdall IV, Christine Van Tuyl, Carol Pastor, Karyn Frazier, Jessica Nicolls, Aly Lawson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS & PHOTOGRAPHERS Karina Passos Photography, William Edwin Willis Photography, Will Holder Photography, Barry Alman, Little Italy Association, Paula Luna, David Spatafore, Christine Van Tuyl, Coronado Historical Association, Samantha Goh Photography, Jody Esquer, Coronado Playhouse, Alisa Kerr ADVERTISING SALES Heather Canton Amy Slack

amy@crowncitypublishing.com

(619) 288-8050

heather@crowncitypublishing.com

(619) 302-2329

Natasha Archer Advertising Executive

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A NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHERS | JANUARY 2021

C H EERS TO NE W B E GINNING S !

Happy New Year, Coronado! With this fresh, new beginning, we are looking forward to a bright new year ahead. Last year, this jeweled crown of a city rallied together and supported local businesses and we’d like to carry this community spirit into the New Year. This biannual January Forks & Corks Dining issue is dedicated to our beloved local restaurants in town – past & present.

We are so grateful to all our restaurants that created effortless ways to feed us at home whenever we crave that specific burger, pizza, sushi... or even that bottle of wine!

Cheers to you, Coronado!

Amy Slack and Heather Canton, Publishers

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LOCAL BUZZ | JANUARY 2021

While many events have gone virtual or have been canceled this year, plans are always changing, so be sure to keep checking in with your favorite clubs, community and faith organizations like these to see what's happening locally.

CITY OF CORONADO Each week you can read or watch a video from the City Manager, Blair King's Office that provides an update that includes information on programs, services and issues within the City, as well as news, project updates and follow-up information when necessary. Visit coronado.ca.us/news/what_s_new You can also sign up to receive ENotifications right to your inbox with an emailed notice of the Weekly Update. Sign up for eNotifications on the City’s website. Visit Coronado.ca.us and search “Enotifications” CORONADO CULTURAL ARTS COMMISSION CoronadoARTS.com is the leading online resource for Arts & Cultural information in

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Coronado. A service of the City of Coronado’s Cultural Arts Commission, this site is intended to provide easily available “one-stop” information on a variety of events, classes, lectures, exhibitions and music performances.

Visit coronadoarts.com/artsonline

CORONADO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE The Coronado Chamber of Commerce is a great place to check in to find out what's going on locally. They have an online calendar of events at https://web. coronadochamber.com/events.

Check in with the Coronado Chamber of Commerce for details. Contact the Chamber office at 619-435-9260 or visit their website coronadochamber.com

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O T B B U C K E T L I S T | O V E R T H E B R I D G E T O L I T T L E I T A LY

There's plenty of outdoor dining in the heart of Little Italy.

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or locals crossing the bridge to return home after a long day off island is an amazing feeling.The sights of home start coming into view bringing a sense of comfort.That is the charm of living on an island, let us not split hairs with technical speak of a peninsula.

The downside of island living is island fever, the feeling of being trapped, doing the same things repeatedly with no variation in sight. A visit to a nearby neighborhood may be the cure.

Very few neighborhoods have as much bang for the buck as Little Italy, it’s close and getting there is easy. By car it’s 10 minutes, 15 with parking, or you can take the ferry and make a day of it. Saturday mornings Little Italy hosts a thriving farmers market called the Mercato. It is well organized and packed with fresh produce, local crafts and tasty things to eat. The Mercato is always good for inspiration, putting a meal together as you move from one booth to the next.

Most of the action in Little Italy lies on a walkable loop. India is a one-way street heading north running about eight city blocks and Kettner Boulevard is a one-way street heading south. The two streets are connected on the south end at Beech Street and on the north end by West Kalima Street. Parking is not always easy so once you park, make the most of it, and always bring a cooler if you know you are shopping for food. In addition to the Farmers Market there is no shortage of specialty food shops like Mona Lisa’s or Assenti’s. Drop your groceries at the car after shopping then go exploring. The “Little” in Little Italy must mean a little something for everyone. My youngest daughter Sasha is quick to remind me why she came. There is a new shop in the neighborhood, Holy Paleta, the display case is visually stunning, and the popsicles are the most refreshing and delicious things you have ever tasted. If ice cream is more your thing than look no further than Salt and Straw. This Portland transplant uses local ingredients to make some of the best flavors around.

Cocktail hour, you are in the right spot. Starting at the beginning of India on Beech Street, Craft and Commerce is a great restaurant that in addition to great food and cocktails, hosts a separate speakeasy called False Idol, a Trader Vic - style Tiki Bar. Heading north on India, Ironside, a seafood restaurant, has an elegant bar. Everything is good, but for me the Bloody Mary topped with a shucked oyster and French fries smothered with clam chowder are a must. Next stop The Princes Pub for fish and chips, a proper pint of Guinness and a few games of darts. If you are feeling elegant then the tableside Martini at Born and Raised or a Mimosa at Morning Glory are a must. Nolita Hall at the north end of India is new and a great addition to the neighborhood. The outer walls all roll up, bringing the outdoors in. The focal point is a large vintage flight information display board hanging behind the bar. Currently it’s displaying flights coming and going from Seattle - Tacoma airport. The effect is fun, as you hear numbers and letters spinning into place with planes flying so close overhead it shakes the building giving Nolita Hall the distinction of the coolest airport bar ever.

If all that isn’t enough, they have indoor shuffleboard that you can play while enjoying a drink. This brings you to the end of India Street where you can grab a quick Margarita at Comino’s, an eclectic Mexican restaurant, just before you turn down West Kalima Street and head south down Kettner.

Kettner boulevard is full of fun spots as well. The Crack Shack for fried 14

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Customers at Piazza della Famiglia dine under lights.

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chicken, french fries fried in chicken fat and a game or two of bocce ball. Herb and Wood and Herb and Eatery, a restaurant and market respectfully by Brian Malarkey, are both elegant and delicious. The Waterfront is the oldest and longest operating bar in San Diego.It was the first bar to open after prohibition, and the burgers are repeatedly voted the best in town. Finally, Underbelly for Ramen, craft beer and Japanese whisky. There are some killer spots in the neighborhood to grab good craft beer; Ballast Point, Bolt, Mikkeller and Bottlecraft to name a few. You cannot throw a stone without breaking a wine glass as Italian restaurants, wine shops and tasting rooms abound.

Little Italy really has so much to offer, and it is not all food and drink. Blick Art Supply is like Disneyland for creative people, and it has its own parking lot. Architectural Salvage of San Diego is a go-to spot for vintage knick knacks and hardware. Little Italy even has a cool surf shop Atacama.They sell unique surf clothing you won’t find elsewhere. At the north end of India Street there are a group of shops in an old warehouse that are fun to explore while enjoying a drink from James Coffee, which anchors all the shops with a common seating area.

I really could go on and on as I feel I have barely scratched the surface. This neighborhood is not just about Italy, in fact I didn’t mention any of the wonderful Italian restaurants or bakeries. The layers of this neighborhood are endless and fun to peel away. The car is packed and the trip has been a success. It’s time to head for home, but don’t worry that comforting feeling we talked about will be waiting for you once you cross the bridge.

• Clyde Van Arsdall IV is an executive chef and lives in Coronado with his family.

India Street is the Heart of Little Italy.

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P E O P L E | D AV I D S P A T A F O R E

David Spatafore of Blue Bridge Hospitality Dishes on Ice Cream, a Hot Prom Date, CoraMart and COVID-19 Coping Skills

By Christine Van Tuyl Photos Courtesy of David Spatafore

Lots of celebs have frequented MooTime Creamery since it opened in 1998, including Magic Johnson, Mandy Moore, Mary Lou Retton, Gwen Stefani, and Larry King, who reached over the glass and grabbed a handful of gummy worms when he was waiting in line.

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avid Spatafore, Principal of Blue Bridge Hospitality, didn’t grow up eating Wagyu short ribs like they serve at Stake, or poke tacos like the ones at Leroy’s. In fact, he was lucky if he got a night out at Pizza Garden or Char Burger.

“I was raised by a single mother, so we didn’t go out to eat a lot,” laughs David. “We didn’t have a lot of money. My mom was a speech therapist and was just trying to give me a good place to live. So, if we went out for pizza, it was like…I was eating it with tap water.”

These days, David is busy infusing creativity and innovation into the island dining scene with eateries like Little Frenchie, Village Pizzeria, Stake Chophouse & Bar, Leroy’s Kitchen and Lounge, MooTime Creamery, Lil’ Piggy’s and more. And don’t forget Liberty Public Market—San Diego’s first public market—over the bridge in Liberty Station. As a Coronado native, David says Blue Bridge is rooted in scratch-made, locally sourced seasonal cuisine, and never, ever buying stuff “in a box and heating it up.”

David says back when he grew up in the Coronado Cays, there really weren’t a lot of dining choices on the island. He lived in the Cays before the Loews, and before Blue Anchor and many of the villages were built.

“Being a kid here is awesome,” says David. “We used to go out to the little sand dunes with bb guns…you could just do that stuff then. I mean, where were you going to go?”

David recalls happy visits to CoraMart to buy penny candies, or going to the Avenue to buy some Jelly Bellies, which was “a very big deal.” He says he loved Village Theater and playing video games at Ed’s Hobby Shop next door, when every kid in town was fighting for time on one of three games.

A Coronado High School grad of 1989, David brought a very special girl to his senior prom: Jenni, his future wife.

“She was a Navy brat, a couple of years younger than me, and my senior year, I asked her to prom and it hasn’t ended,” says David. “It’s been a hell of a long prom date! But, no regrets.”

Like most, David left Coronado for college at Sonoma State in Northern California, but soon found himself back on the island.

“I think when you hit adolescence you want to get off the rock, then, you get off the rock, and you’re like….how in the hell do I get back?” says David with a laugh. “It’s the cycle of Coronado that makes it a unique and special place.”

Like his first memories of dining out, his first job in the restaurant industry was equally unglamourous. David remembers his first and only job in the food industry as a teenager was washing dishes at the old Chart House.

“It was brutal,” says David with a chuckle. “Washing the artichoke pot at the end of the night…it was terrible. And my mom would never let me in the house when I was done because I smelled like fish. She made me take all my clothes off outside. It was gross.”

David says he only worked there for three months, and didn’t advance to

David masks up at Little Frenchie, which has pivoted to takeout to weather the COVID lockdown.

salad prep. But still, he remembers the energy and the friendships and the excitement of it all.

“It was a fun place, the music was always playing,” says David. “And there were a lot of local people who had worked there forever; there was this comradery. Everyone was just connected.”

Was there ever a moment when he just knew that the restaurant business was for him? When did this “aha moment” occur? “Never,” according to David. But still, somehow there was always an allure to food.

“Food’s fun, it’s challenging, it’s creative and it’s different everywhere,” says David. “There’s no finality to food. There’s no ‘this is the best it will ever be.’ This might be the best today, and then someone will make it better tomorrow.”

David says this is what inspired him to open MooTime Creamery in 1998, which he calls a true family affair. His wife, his mother and his cousin, Leroy, all pitched in to make MooTime a success.

He remembers all the blood, sweat and tears that went into building the ice cream shop, and recalls laying tile as locals walked by and commented that “Coronado didn’t need another ice cream shop.”

“I was like, whatever,thanks for the confidence, and I just kept going,” says David. “We just did it.

We made a lot of ice cream. We threw away a lot of the ice cream. We figured things out.”

He says that for six or seven months, either his wife, his mom, Leroy or himself was always at the ice cream store. It seemed like a nonstop operation. Until finally, one day, David and Leroy left the shop in the hands of one of the teens who worked for them, and they went to Danny’s Pub and had a burger and a beer.

“We were like, ‘oh man this is awesome,’” recalls David.

But that was just the beginning. Next came Village Pizzeria, Leroy’s and Stake, and it just kept going. Blue Bridge is known for supporting Coronado schools and community events, in fact, David has three kids who have grown up in the district.

Then came COVID-19. When I ask him if the global pandemic has revealed any silver linings, David pauses before he answers. His demeanor changes and he grows more thoughtful and serious.

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David with his family at MooTime back in 2004. It was truly a "family affair." (Below) A current day reenactment.

“I will say that back in March, when everything got shut down, we literally went back to 1998,” says David. “It was me, and my son, and my daughter and my cousins, and it was all hands on deck. We were doing it. This was it. We were opening and closing every single day. We were working, we were stocking, we were cooking and cleaning.”

David says when Little Frenchie offered Easter Brunch to go, he wasn’t afraid to roll up his sleeves and get dirty to make the day a success.

“I washed dishes all day on that Easter,” says David. “And I loved it. I’m not too proud for that.”

He says COVID knocked him down “several notches” and made him “bleed a bit,” and admitted it’s going to hurt for a long time.

“But it kind of refreshed my perspective on just what we were doing, what we are trying to do and who we want to be,” says David.

David admits he feels a bit misunderstood when it comes to

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some residents who don’t view Blue Bridge as a true “local” business, and is somehow less worthy of local support and patronage.

“Someone was bashing Blue Bridge on social media the other day, like we’re not a real local business,” says David.

“I was like, you know what? No one gave me this. No one handed this to me. I was raised by a single mom. This isn’t family money. This isn’t my dad setting me up. So, if you don’t like it, well, sorry but you don’t know me.”

When it comes to pending lockdowns, David is confident as his restaurants begin to switch gears and pivot to take out. He says the community overall has been incredibly supportive of all the small businesses in Coronado, and he’s glad that this time around, now we all know what to expect.

“I feel like we’ve been through this before,” says David. “We know what worked. We know what didn’t work. We’re not going to close everything down. I feel like the community isn’t going to freak out and go under a shell the way they did in March.”

David says that it’s a challenge to keep his emotions in check and stay grounded, because every day is a new, wild ride. What helps him weather the craziness? “Titos,” of course. That, and time by the ocean…surfing, paddle boarding, boating, you name it.

“I’ve kind of gotten to the point like…whatever, what are you going to do?” says David. “Are you going to sue me?

Are you going to try to take me down? Whatever, I don’t care anymore. I’m grinding through it, and if I come out with one arm, or half a leg, or dead, whatever, it is what it is. We’re all going to do the best we can.”

• Christine Van Tuyl is a freelance writer who lives in Coronado with her husband and two children.

David looks forward to opening all Blue Bridge restaurants in full capacity when the lockdowns end. He's grateful to his family and dedicated staff for keeping him going through the challenging times.

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Nick Barringer during a water rescue drill, jumping out of a helicopter into the ocean off Coronado 24

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Crown City History I N C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H H O T E L D E L C O R O N A D O & C O R O N A D O H I S T O R I C A L A S S O C I AT I O N

Dining in Coronado Past & Present

B y C A R O L PA S T O R , C O R O N A D O H I S T O R I C A L A S S O C I AT I O N V O L U N T E E R

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s I started to write about dining in Coronado in past years I came up with many of the same restaurants chosen by friends and family members dating back to the '60s and '70s. Then I made a call to a friend, Susan Keith, whose family have been here for many years more, thanks to our US Navy. Susan tells the very funny story of being a child of 4 to 5 years old, living on Loma Avenue near Orange with her grandmother in the 1940s. She would be asked by the family to take the salad bowl over to La Avenida Restaurant on the corner of Orange and B Avenue, now the site of Bistro d’ Asia, and have it filled for supper with their famous Jack Salad. Crossing Orange Avenue did not seem to be a problem for this little girl. Who was driving cars in Coronado in the '40s? And so, once again, she marched home with her full salad bowl. Not only a humorous moment in our history, but one of our well known and loved restaurants. It was a spot for good comfort food, Jack Salad and the famous murals painted by Senor Alfredo Ramos Martinez. Those murals taken from their wall are now located on the entry wall of the Coronado Public Library for all to admire.

Looking back through the history of dining in Coronado keep in mind that in the earlier days, even as recently as the 1960s and 1970s, dining out for most families was for a special occasion; a birthday, anniversary, or graduation. Most families did not dine out every week or more often as we see today. It was a far more conservative time. A consensus of opinion seemed to be: looking for pizza or Italian dinner, go to Marcos, now the home of Tent City Restaurant and the Coronado Historical Association. Need to satisfy the family’s craving for Mexican food, then head over to the original Mexican Village Restaurant at Orange Avenue and First Street. Yes, that is now Nicky Rottens. Of course you couldn’t beat Mulvaney’s for their soup and salad bar either. We tossed around a few other names, but we soon realized we were pretty much devoid of something such as fast food or chain take out at that time.

Those of you who are reading this for the first time may find some of our history fun or amusing. One more spot came to mind as well. This one was called the Chowder House, serving only chowder and roast beef sandwiches.

And where would this have been, you ask? Well, none other than Loma Avenue, later to become Chez Loma.

As time went on into the late '70s and '80s we began to see the arrival of more choices, of delis, take out, café type eateries and of course, the fine dining sites. Today drive down Orange Avenue between First Street and the Hotel del Coronado and you can find over fifty locations from liquor store delis, supplying pizza or sandwiches, to the café for that quick latte fix or to sit down and enjoy a meal.

How times have changed. In the past fifty to sixty years there seem to be far less stay at home moms cooking, many more juggling home and work, and oh yes, the bachelor who does not cook. They are just some of the few who keep our cafes and restaurants humming. Tourists to Coronado only have to tell you what variety of food they feel like eating that day and I am sure one of our residents can point them toward their choice of eatery.

Happy dining all, hope to see you enjoying our fare soon.

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Jack’s Salad Recipe

Jack Clapp worked for Caesar Cardini at The Caesar’s Palace in Tijuana Mexico.

He brought this version of the Caesar Salad (Jack’s Salad) to La Avenida Café in Coronado.

Ingredients

• 1 garlic clove (or 1/4 - 1/2 tsp chopped garlic) • 1/2 c olive oil • 2 large heads romaine • freshly ground pepper • 2 eggs. cooked 1 minute (or raw) • juice of 1 large lemon • 6-8 anchovy fillets, chopped or 1/2 inch • anchovy paste • 1/2 c grated Parmesan cheese • 1 c grated jack cheese • 2 c soft croutons

Directions

• In a small bowl, mix oil and garlic. Let it sit to “mingle” for several hours in the refrigerator.

• Tear romaine into bite size pieces.

(You can do this ahead. Place in the refrigerator wrapped in a damp towel.)

To mix. place romaine in a large salad bowl.

• Toss lettuce with garlic/oil.

• In same small bowl, mix eggs and anchovy.

• Toss with lettuce.

• Squeeze on lemon juice.

• Add cheeses and toss again.

• Add croutons and toss again.

• To be really authentic, serve on chilled plates

Left to right: Bunny MacKenzie, Founder of the Coronado Historical Association; Capt. Roy E. McCoy, CHA President; Coronado Mayor R. McNeely; Mr. & Mrs. Marco Plumbo stand in front of Marco's during the Oct. 12, 1974, plaque ceremony honoring the history of the building.

Courtesy of the Coronado Historical Association.

To make croutons

• 4 slices sourdough bread • butter and more Parmesan cheese • Toast one side of the bread under the broiler.

• Turn over and spread with butter.

• Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

• Return to broiler until cheese melts and bread is slightly toasted.

• Cut into 1/2 inch cubes.

Serves 12 | Jack Clapp, La Avenida Café

Exterior of La Avenida Café. Courtesy of the Coronado Historical Association.

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I N T H E K I T C H E N | C LY D E VA N A R S DA L L I V

By Clyde Van Arsdall IV Photos by Karina Passos

key to easy cooking is having a solid pantry that is stocked with quality groceries.

When your pantry is stocked with good things good meals tend to happen. I find the act of keeping the pantry stocked to be one of the most enjoyable aspects of cooking especially when it includes a trip to Little Italy. While I often order craft items online from all over the country there are still plenty of things I buy locally, fresh pasta is one of them.

I have been making the pilgrimage to Assenti’s on India Street for 15 years, it is like visiting family.

At least twice a month I head over the bridge to stock up on fresh pasta and a whole host of Italian grocery items. I like to think of Assenti’s as San Diego’s first Family of Pasta. The Assenti family immigrated from Italy in the '50s and has been in the food business in San Diego ever since.

Adriana and her husband Umberto owned an Italian restaurant called the Isle of Capri on Midway and Rosecrans before opening Assenti’s Pasta with their sons Luigi and Roberto in 1981. Adriana was a true Sfoglina, a master at hand making pasta the traditional way, this is a dying art and she wanted to pass this on to her sons while bringing traditional fresh pasta to San Diego.

The Assenti family returned to Italy and purchased all the specialty equipment they needed to make fresh pasta on an industrial level. They then painstakingly scaled Adriana’s family recipes to work in large batches. The rest as they say is history. Luigi and Roberto are both amazing craftsmen who have mastered their trade over the last 40 years. They are not only good at what they do, they are also wonderful human beings. The two brothers are very hands on and one of them is always in the shop, which is one of the many reasons, besides the sights and smells, that my whole family loves going there. Touching base and catching up is part of the enjoyment of shopping there and they are extremely helpful explaining the pastas and what goes best with each shape.

As soon as you enter the store you are greeted with a rolling rack of fresh pasta made that day. I start my shopping there with at least three pounds of fresh pasta. Fresh pasta is both delicate and delicious and only takes on average three minutes in boiling water to make. Fettuccine al Nero is so much fun, this fettuccine is dark black as it is colored with actual squid ink, my personal favorite. My kids love both the wide ribbons of pappardelle and the fine stands of angel hair pasta. I am always amused when one of the brothers reminds me each time before I leave that the angel hair only takes 90 seconds to cook. It is their way of making sure I do not ruin their delicate pasta and make a mess 28

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(Above left to right): Fresh pasta being made daily at Assenti's Pasta. Brothers Roberto and Luigi Assenti take a hands-on approach in the restaurant. (Below clockwise): Specialty salami. Adriana, and her husband, Umberto. Short shapes of pasta being cut. Various salami in the deli case.

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of my meal. Fresh pasta sheets are a must if making lasagna, the difference this fresh pasta makes is notable in the form of flavor and texture.

Next stop the freezer section for several balls of frozen pizza dough and the following sauces: amatriciana, a spicy red pasta sauce, traditional marinara or a meat sauce, pizza sauce and pesto Genovese. This is also where you will find frozen filled pastas such as ravioli, cappelletti, agnolotti as well as gnocchi. I buy one or two different frozen stuffed shapes to have on hand if I need a quick meal in a pinch. Moving on, the open case next to the freezer is packed with all kinds of delicious items.

I usually grab a ball of low moisture mozzarella for the pizzas, a large wedge of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and half a dozen salami and cheese rolls for my son Charlie to inhale on our ride home.

The next stop is the deli case for a pint of mixed olives and some hand sliced meats. Two sticks of good pepperoni sliced thin, this is the good stuff full of flavor nothing like the salty stuff they sell in the grocery stores, one-pound of spicy calabrese, one-pound hard salami, half-pound of mortadella, and a half-pound of provolone. If I am down to half a bottle of my favorite unfiltered olive oil, I will grab one of those off the tightly packed grocery shelves. Dessert is only my thing when entertaining so if we are celebrating I will grab some fresh cannoli shells and some house made filling, all you have to do is pipe the filling into the shells and add some fresh fruit and you are a Rock Star, no one needs to know you are lip syncing.

I can tell you as a chef that good quality ingredients make all the difference in the final product. Cooking for a high-end dinner party, I served Assenti’s pumpkin stuffed ravioli in a browned butter sage sauce, years later 30

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The deli case holds varieties of salami.

Assenti's Pasta store is located on India Street in Little Italy.

they were all still talking about it. When you prepare something that Luigi and Roberto have made, they are cooking for you, all you are doing is finishing the play. Every time I cook up some of their food I feel as if I have been invited into their home. Recently we asked what pasta they would use for a pasta salad. Surprisingly, Luigi suggested a stuffed shape called agnolotti and gave us his recipe. We made it and the results were as expected, a huge hit at our beach party. The next night we took the left-over pasta salad and sautéed it in a little olive oil and ate it warm with freshly shaved parmesan cheese, the result was sublime. Cold and refreshing at the beach the previous day, then hot and satisfying the next night for dinner. The knowledge behind their products and the exchange you have with the owners is what makes Assenti’s not only unique but a gem that should be cherished for what it is, old school professionalism at its very best. Unfortunately, this brand of craftsmanship is dead or dying most everywhere else. Fans drive down from LA with coolers to stock up at Assenti’s as it really is that special. This past year has taught me that no matter how good something is nothing lasts forever. Small businesses are closing at an all too frequent rate.

Treat yourself, treat your family, take a drive and experience this charming store for yourself, tell them Clyde sent you.

• Clyde Van Arsdall IV is an executive chef and lives in Coronado with his children.

R E C I P E S | C H E F C LY D E VA N A R S DA L L I V

PUMPKIN RAVIOLI WITH BROWN BUTTER SAGE SAUCE

Brown Butter Sage Sauce is classically paired with pasta in Northern Italy. This is the recipe I used for Assenti’s pumpkin ravioli, but it would pair nicely with any Fall ingredients such as wild mushrooms, butternut squash, or sweet potato. So Simple but so good.

B ROWN B U TTER SAGE SAU C E

I N G R E D I EN TS • 8 tablespoons butter • 1 clove garlic, crushed and chopped • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped sage leaves • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1/4 tsp salt I N ST R U CTIO N S Melt the butter in a medium saucepan set over low-medium heat. When the butter begins to get just slightly bubbly, add the chopped garlic clove.

Stir the garlic in the butter for 1 minute. Add the chopped sage to the garlic butter and continue stirring and cooking the mixture for 1 to 2 additional minutes, until the butter has turned very light brown and has a rich, nutty aroma.

Season the sage brown butter sauce, ground black pepper, and salt, to taste.

Assenti’s Pumpkin Ravioli cook time 10-12 minutes Pro Tip from Assenti’s Website: “When cooking filled pasta (ravioli, cappelletti, or agnolotti) a full rolling boil will release the seal that holds the filling.”

“To avoid this, after you place the filled pasta into boiling water, return to a full boil then immediately reduce heat until your water is at a soft and gentle boil.”

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A RO UN D TOW N | C H R I ST I NE VA N T U Y L

Find information on this standing desk on pg. 35.

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global pandemic continues to present daily challenges in all aspects of our lives. One of the most pressing problems? Our ability to work from home successfully, productively and peacefully. After all, helping children navigate distance learning while facing looming work deadlines is not for the faint of heart. Add in a business Zoom, a loud pet and an epic kid tantrum and you’ve got the makings of a sit-com gone sideways. But hark! Help is in the midst.

We’ve combed the streets (and searched online) to find you the top tech gadgets and creature comforts that make working from home as easy as that mystical school drop off.

QUIET PLEASE. When you want to clear away the distractions of the world and focus on what matters most, strap on these Bose QuietComfort 35 II Wireless Bluetooth Headphones. They cancel noise, allow for Alexa voice control and let you stay completely dialed into those super-fun Zoom meetings. $199, Amazon.

L I G H T I T U P.

Sometimes you need an invigorating scent to inspire you to get things done. Fire up one of these Craft & Foster candles from Coronado’s newly opened Wild Dove Boutique and get your creative juices flowing.

A San Diego-based candle company started in 2015, Craft & Foster is now a nationally recognized brand featured at Neiman Marcus. But you won’t have to go that far – grab your own here in town. $22, Wild Dove Boutique, 1029-B Orange Avenue.

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G E T C A F F E I N AT E D .

Let’s face it. Your day is over before it begins if you don’t start off with a properly brewed cup of coffee. Lucky for you, the top-rated, state-of-theart Cuisinart DCC-3200P1 Perftemp Coffee Maker gets high marks for its brew strength control, flavor and coffee quality. Bonus points for its festive exterior style choices. Amazon, $69.99.

G E T C O Z Y.

There’s no sense in plugging away on a chilly, winter morning without a plush, cozy throw blanket to keep you warm and toasty! Check out this cotton knit cable throw blanket from Bungalow 56.

It’s so soft you’ll wish you could work from home forever. $99, Bungalow 56, 1022 C Avenue. Bungalow56.com

K I N DA S O B E R .

It’s five o’clock somewhere, right?

Maybe you won’t hold this plucky cup within eyeshot of your Zoom call, but you can at least savor off-screen sips of your favorite beverage, even if it’s just coffee! Get a handle on yours, from Adorn, right here in town. $12.95, Adorn, 1011 Orange Avenue.

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WORK SMARTER.

Humans weren’t meant to be hunched over their computers all day long, and the folks at San Diego-based Ready Desk know it. Their sleek, smartly-designed, Scandinavian-inspired standing desks and laptop risers bring your screen to posture-friendly heights, even in your at-home COVID work world. Prices vary by design, order online at theReadyDesk.com

I N C L E A R V I E W.

Staring at a screen 24x7? Blue-light glasses to the rescue! These special glasses have filters in their lenses that block or absorb blue light, helping reduce headaches and exposure to blue light waves that can keep you awake at night. My favs?

The blue light glasses from Diff Eyewear; stylish and affordable, and every pair of DIFFs sold helps to provide the gift of sight to someone in need through eye exams, surgeries, glasses, medicine, and more. Prices vary, Diffeyewear.com

ALL THE FEELS.

Feeling tired and stressed? Melt away your aches and pains from the bottom up with the TheraFlow Dual Foot Massager and Roller. Not only does it relieve heel and arch pain and plantar fasciitis, but the Shiatsu acupressure has been painstakingly configured to suit a range of feet types. $24.95, Amazon.

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C AT C H T H E M O U S E .

An ergonomic mousepad gives soft support to relieve pressure and keep your wrist in a natural, comfortable state. I like this EkuaBot Mousepad because it’s made of memory foam and is great for long hours of use. Best part? It comes in lots of happy, vibrant designs. $16.99, Amazon.

C R Y S TA L C L E A R .

There’s nothing worse than attending a zoom meeting, producing a video, or firing up a Podcast without a tiptop mic and audio set up. Check out the top-rated Shure MV5 Condenser Microphone for iPhones, iPads, iPods. $99, Amazon.

DREAM ON.

It might only be Monday, but you can dream that it’s Sunday! Just button up these soft and oh-so-cozy Toss brand pajamas to make working from home peaceful and dreamy. Prices vary, Blue Jeans and Bikinis, 971 Orange Avenue.

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G E T C H A R G E D U P.

This neat little AhaStyle 3-in-1 Charging Station and holder makes it easy to charge all your favorite Apple devices. Made out of shiny aluminum, it keeps your Apple Watch, iPhone and Airpods fired up and ready to go. Amazon, 24.99

H AV E A B A L L .

Who says you have to sit in an old, boring desk chair? Try the Gaiam Classic Balance Ball Chair instead. Created by health and fitness experts, it promotes proper alignment and relieves back pain and soreness. It even claims to boost energy and focus! Amazon, $69.

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LIFESTYLE | BY KARYN FRAZIER + JESSICA NICOLLS

By Jessica Nicolls + Karyn Frazier

love a good before and after picture and this remodel delivers! This project is a true testament to how powerful a coat of paint can be to transform a space. The original layout was closed off and made the house feel dark so we removed a wall to open up the dining space. The oak cabinets were in great shape so we sprayed them in a subtle warm grey in the breakfast nook which is across from the kitchen and compliments the white kitchen.

THE DI N I NG R O O M We painted the trim around the windows in a crisp white and left the walls a very light warm gray.

Replacing the chandelier with a fabric drum shade offered a bit of softness to the room. The metal on the chandelier ties into the black dining chairs, which pop against the wood table and floors.

THE KI TC H E N Since the home doesn’t get a lot of natural light we opted for an all white kitchen. We did a gray counter and a classic white subway tile on the backsplash. We rotated the U shape of the kitchen opening up a better flow from the kitchen to the breakfast nook.

THE BR E A K FAST N O O K This is one of our favorite parts of this remodel. We kept the existing cabinets and gave them a fresh coat of paint. We removed the chandelier above the table as it felt too busy with the built-ins and window. We had a custom wood table made to make sure there was plenty of room to pass by on the way to the living room. We love how the bench pillows soften the space and the dining chairs have a lovely woven texture to keep things beachy.

THE L I V I N G R O O M A fresh coat of paint and some new floors gave this living room an updated look. The seafoam chairs offset the warm tone of the fireplace and offer a cozy place to sit by the fireplace.

• Karyn Frazier and Jessica Nicolls are the owners of the interior design firm Bungalow 56.

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PHOTOS BY SAMANTHA GOH PHOTOGRAPHY

BEFORE

AFTER

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F O R K S & C O R K S | N I G H T & D AY C A F E

Night and Day Cafe Serves up Savory Eats with a Smile

By Christine Van Tuyl

Photos by Christine Van Tuyl and Jody Esquer

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elicious food that tastes “fresh, old-fashioned and flavorful.” Huge portions, “enough for leftovers.” An “old-school,” quirky vibe. “The best California burrito in the city,” and the “best breakfast, hands down.”

There’s a reason Night and Day Cafe has been around since 1927. After all, hundreds of Yelp reviews just can’t be wrong. Almost every day, you’ll find a line outside of Night and Day Cafe…everyone from tourists and families to members of the military and hangry locals. It’s also immensely popular with Coronado High School students, a point that’s not lost on Jody Esquer, who runs the cafe along with her husband, Hector.

“I’m hoping we can do a high school delivery special, like a ‘Zoom Burrito,’” says Jody with an easy laugh, who just filed paperwork with DoorDash that very morning. “We are excited to start food delivery, and we will have a five-mile radius, so that’s all the way down to Imperial Beach.”

Jody herself frequented Night and Day Cafe when she was in high school and has lots of special (and funny) memories. Jody, who graduated CHS in 1977, recalls getting sent to the “time out” bench by the cook after she playfully climbed up onto the counter one night.

“The cook said, ‘you, get out’ and I had to wait here on the bench for my friends until they finished their meal and came out,” laughs Jody.

Back when Night and Day was open 24/7, it was the place to “sober up” after a long night of drinking; understandably, lots of shenanigans ensued.

“We’ve had a couple of people do the splits on the counter top and a few people have had to be escorted out,” says Jody. “Back in the '50s, there were actually brawls. Apparently once there was a fight and someone went through a window. Another person went through a screen door.”

You won’t find much debauchery at Night and Day these days, especially with the pandemic lockdowns. But you will find smiles and attention from the cafe’s dedicated staff (only six now, including Jody and her daughter, Allie) and the dazed, sleepy looks of contented diners, their appetites quelled. (Just ask actress Emma Stone of The Help, and the owner of the Harlem Globetrotters, both of whom have frequented the cafe.)

The ambiance is bustling and nostalgic. The original sign (set to be refurbished) is retro and kitsch, and the décor reminds diners to “eat” and that “today is going to be a great day.” The cook dashes around “like a ninja” according to one Yelp reviewer, grilling up everything from giant pancakes to omelets to burritos in plain sight atop a flat top grill, to the delight of many a diner. (The hood of the grill is 125 years old and was salvaged from an old ship. Be sure to check it out.)

But how’s the food? After all, that’s why we’re here.

A quick glance at the menu reveals a combination of typical American diner food (think burgers, fries, grilled cheese and tuna melts) and Mexican food (quesadillas, burritos, tacos and the like.) They also serve a fantastic “all day breakfast” that includes both traditional offerings like giant pancakes, eggs, French toast and hash browns as well as Mexican breakfasts like breakfast burritos, chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. You’ll find inexpensive kids’ meals starting at $5.50, as well as wine selections and beer from Coronado Brewing Company.

The breakfast choices looked appetizing and fetching, such as Hector’s Special Omelet with jumbo shrimp, salsa fresca and cheese, slathered in jalapeno white sauce and topped with avocado.

I was also intrigued with Jody’s Surfer Special with grilled fish, shredded cabbage with a side of beans, avocado and mango salsa.

Alas, I’m a burrito girl at heart. But which one to choose? Jody explained that Mario’s Surf and Turf Burrito with carne asada, shrimp, French fries, guacamole and house-made salsa was very popular, along with the Coronado Breakfast Burrito with bacon, hash browns, eggs, avocado and cheese. I ended up choosing the Stan the Man Burrito (named after local surfing legend Stan Searfus) which 42

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The best California burrito in the city.

- Review on Yelp

Paul Zeller bought the cafe in 1954, when it was at the old address, two doors down.

Night and Day has been delighting customers with its large, tasty portions since 1927.

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The juicy hamburgers are tasty and delicious.

The Stan the Man Burrito named after local surfing legend Stan Searfus - has grilled fish, rice, guacamole, cabbage and white sauce.

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came with grilled fish, rice, guacamole, cabbage, mango salsa and white sauce.

My burrito was enormous and as tasty as you could imagine. I’ve been known to put away many a burrito in my time, but this one was so juicy and filling I had to take half of it home for later.

(My husband thanked me.) My mom ordered the ½ pound cheeseburger with French fries and also delighted in her selection.

Jody explained that the American/ Mexican menu was actually a happy accident, as the café had always served traditional American comfort food.

When the Esquers took over the cafe in 1996, it was run by Mario, Jody’s brother in law. Jody describes it as a “low bar stool” kind of diner, all red, black and white. The kind of place where “a dude could sit there for hours drinking a cup of coffee.” Tragically, Mario passed away in 1999, leaving Hector, Jody’s husband, in charge.

Understandably, there were a few bumps in the road. In 2012, the Esquers, along with another partner, decided to change the café to all-Mexican food.

The locals were not pleased.

“No one liked it,” chuckles Jody. “No one was happy with it. So, we said, ‘okay, let’s do Mexican and American food.’ People were happy with that.”

My mom and I sure were. She went American, I went Mexican, and we both went home smiling and full…with leftovers to boot. With a possible new addition (hello, seasonal tamales!) and a pending home-delivery service, the long-adored Night and Day Cafe is sure to age like a cast-iron pan… seasoned and savory, with a sprinkle of shenanigans.

(Top) Brothers Hector and Mario - pictured when they were in high school - made a family business out of Night and Day Cafe when they purchased it in 1996. (Left) The cafe before the walk-up window, but the "time out" bench is there.

(Below) Mario brought a llama to the cafe on the Fourth of July.

• Christine Van Tuyl is a freelance writer who lives in Coronado with her husband and two children.

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A R T S | T H E H I S T O R I C C O R O N A D O P L AY H O U S E

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PHOTO BY CORONADO PLAYHOUSE

The Coronado Playhouse had the same exterior from 1950 to 2003.

County’s longest continuously run community theater is steps away from Coronado residents and visitors. As it approaches its 75th anniversary in 2021, the crescendo of impending celebration is perhaps garnering more strength than expected.

Coronado Playhouse Production Manager Anthony Zelig agrees the planning for something positive and hopefully under more normal conditions over time makes the anniversary season and its eventual fête all the more attractive.

“We’re in a bit of a dark period,” he admits of what we’re all going through these days, “and looking for some light at the end of the tunnel.”

The playhouse team has been thinking about the theater’s 75th anniversary for a couple of years, Zelig says. They started talks a while ago about what to make of it and what to do, deciding on a large gala and fundraiser — before the pandemic hit. With September 2021 being the original thought, Zelig says they haven’t scrapped those plans yet.

“If we can still have an in-person celebration, we’ll invite everyone who’s ever done anything with the theater to come join the party.”

Upcoming shows have been curated to be as safe, relevant, and refreshing as possible. There will be a twist on the Annual Free Classic as well as other exciting programming, the playhouse shares, including musicals, 75th anniversary readings and events, as well as additional concerts and cabarets.

Zelig says they have always been tracking the latest coronavirus guidelines and are constantly updating their plans of what they would need do. Nothing is set in stone until the state issues us guidelines, he says, but while they await that directive they have meanwhile prepared for increased sanitation, mask-wearing, social distancing, and the like. He adds they’re lucky because the theater offers a lot of space and with cabaret seating, it’s easy to spread out so everyone feels comfortable. They’re also looking at outdoor venues for the first show of the season and maybe streaming the second if not allowed to reopen yet. “We are determined to bring some content to our patrons and subscribers who have been so patient for the past nine months,” Zelig says.

The Coronado Players performed "Biography" in 1946. Photo by Lou Goodale Bigelow.

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PHOTOS BY CORONADO PLAYHOUSE

April, 1946 - First Production of The Coronado Players. The Players Opener, "The Male Animal," Thurger and Nugent. (L-R) Wayland Capwell, Louise Dobler, Ralph Mackay, George Weems, Bobbie Vickers, Lee Payant, Dorothy Peterson, Lee Payant, Elinor Canedy, Frank Greene, Rene Kenyon, and the ubiquitous George Spelvin. Henry May does not appear in the picture. Probably acting as photographer.

Fringe on the couch by Mabel Chamberlian.

The playhouse is also striving to ensure performer and staff safety. The shows at the beginning of the year are smaller in scale but will have a big impact in terms of entertainment and significance, the playhouse also shares. It has announced three full productions and one reading event to start the 2021 season, welcoming back two returning directors and two debuting directors to the Coronado Playhouse stage.

“We were in the midst of our planning for this season when the pandemic hit,” Zelig recalls. “We had directors submit shows already. We do big musicals, and it just wasn’t going to be possible. We asked them all if there was a small show they wanted to do. Typically we don’t do two-character plays, so this was an opportunity for directors to do something different, and how we came about getting some different ideas and small-cast plays.”

Zelig describes how the season’s second show (Harlem Duet) came to be because, again as they were planning, social justice and the Black Lives Matter movement became front and center. “Because of everything happening in society, we thought let’s take this opportunity to reach out and offer something that’s different from what we normally offer. We ended up with CROWNCITYMAGAZINE.COM

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this fabulous director who submitted a script.” Zelig shares about how the small cast, Black voice, Black production team, and people of color cast, worked on something that expands minds.

“In theater, you sort of have to push the boundary when you can,” he says, adding how they always tried to mix up classic musicals and crowd pleasers with a show or two that pushes our boundaries more and can be educational. “I like that about our seasons. It’s important artistically.”

The call for submissions is open to any director and publicized far and wide in December of each year. The playhouse board is the selection committee, the volunteer members reading every script. In fact, only two staff members at the playhouse are paid; the rest of those who help put together the Coronado productions are volunteers. Zelig says it is more of a passion, people doing it because they love it — spending many hours on the effort because it’s fun and gratifying.

He discusses how they love seeing new directors submit as well as enjoy having veterans return, especially since the playhouse doesn’t have a fixed production team. Zelig explains how new people bring in new perspectives, from lighting to set design, and mentoring also occurs.

Everyone is learning from each other, all in the spirit of community theater, he says.

• Aly Lawson is a freelance writer who lives in Coronado with her

husband and children.

Matilda performance in 2020. Photo by Ken Jaques.

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A welcome reminder that after a storm comes the rainbow, captured by Alisa Kerr this past November from Coronado Shores.

“The best is yet to come.”

- FRANK SINATRA