Małopolska in Winter Known also as ‘Lesser Poland’, Małopolska is a popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts who head to the region’s mountain ranges as soon as the snow starts to fall. For further information on winter sports in Małopolska, visit www.visit.malopolska.pl
Dramatic Landscapes The breathtaking scenery of the Tatra, Pieniny and Bieszczady mountain ranges provides the perfect backdrop for a wide range of active pursuits, including skiing and snowboarding.
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Małopolska in Winter
Winter Sports Resorts Zakopane is perhaps Poland’s bestknown ski resort. It boasts the same facilities that you would expect to find in any Western European resort, including cutting-edge ski lifts. There are over 50 ski slopes in Zakopane and the surrounding area, each catering for different abilities – from beginners to thrillseekers looking for a challenge. www.discoverpl.com
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Wielkopolska Greater Poland Greater Poland or ‘Wielkopolska’ sits in the centre of the country and it was here, over one thousand years ago, that the Polish nation was born. Home to Poland’s first two capital cities, full of history and brimming with culture, it is a region unique in Poland, preserving a number of distinct traditions and customs. Text by Aiden Brisland 26 January 10
Wielkopolska in Pictures
Poznań at Night The Cybiński Bridge leads to the city’s cathedral. The streets of Poznań are particularly atmospheric at night.
Stary Browar Post Industrial Poznań A former brewery, Stary Browar is now an ultra modern shopping centre, which also contains luxury hotels, great restaurants and space for the arts.
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Renaissance Architecture The charming tenement buildings that surround Poznań’s Market Square have been carefully preserved, and add character to the heart of the city’s historic Old Town.
Malta Lake Popular with locals and visitors alike, the Malta Lake is a great place to spend your free time. Sit and watch the world go by, enjoy a gentle stroll – or take part in more active pursuits.
Unspoilt Landscapes Wielkopolska is home to many unspoilt landscapes that are worth discovering. www.discoverpl.com
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Ten Unmissable Attractions in Wielkopolska the nesting ground of the Poznań university and one of the official presidential residences during the interwar period.
Photography by Shutterstock
2. The Steam Engine House Wolsztyn
Discover Poland has compiled ten good reasons to explore Wielkopolska, with something for everyone.
kings residing in Poznań, as well as the emperors who visited the city: Otto III, who stopped here in the year 1000 on his way to Gniezno; Napoleon Bonaparte, who visited the city four times – his longest
stay was in 1806, which made Poznań a European capital for a few weeks; William II, for whom in 1910 the castle was erected, the last monarchic residence in Europe, which after 1918 became
Steam enthusiasts feel particularly at home in Wielkopolska - the Steam Engine House in Wolsztyn, about 70 km from Poznań, is the last active institution of this type, operating within an international rail network. It was founded in 1907 and most of its facilities are preserved in their original form. 30 steam engines are kept in the engine house, and around 15 are fully serviceable, among them – the pride of Wolsztyn, ‘Beautiful Helena’. At the beginning of May the Steam Engine House hosts the annual ‘Locomotive Show’ the highlight of which is a parade of old locomotives. For further information, visit www.parowozowniawolsztyn.pl
3. Salt Mine Kłodawa
You have probably heard of the Wieliczka salt mines near Kraków, however the largest salt
The Royal and Imperial Route links some of the most significant historic monuments in the city of Poznań. This 4.5 km long route begins in the oldest part of the city, the Śródka district with Ostrów Tumski, otherwise known as ‘Cathedral Island’, and ends with the Neo-Romanesque castle of Emperor William II in the so-called castle district. The regal name of the route refers to the early Piast 34
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Photography by Shutterstock
1. R oyal and Imperial Route Poznań
Photography by Shutterstock
The Wild Side of the Biebrza River Cranes, storks and white forests are just a few of the features that appear on the landscape of the largest national park in Poland. While the feathered residents may migrate, the white birch forests are a permanent and prominent feature of this flat landscape which is bisected by the Polish queen of rivers, the River Biebrza. Text by Andrew Usowicz
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he River Biebrza flows through a landscape which is rarely seen in other parts of Europe; the wild flower meadows provide a memorable backdrop and also a valuable habitat for over 270 varieties of migrating birds. Where else can you see a stork, crane and heron within a few metres of each other, all looking for a lunch of frogs or snakes? The Biebrza National Park is one of Europe’s premier ornithological sites - and for those who are truly interested in bird-watching and getting close to nature, then one of the best times to visit is the season of the breaking waters; late winter to early spring. The ice that has formed over the harsh winter period is slowly starting to melt on the rivers and lakes of Augustów, the sluice gates in the town are opening up to prevent flooding and suddenly over a period of about two weeks, one can see and
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hear a huge torrent of water flowing down south; the water finally escaping from its frozen dormancy. At this time of year, thousands of hectares of meadowland are flooded and they become huge lakes on to which these migrating birds return year after year. The sun reflecting on these waters and the sight of numerous varieties of bird looking for partners and just relaxing after their long trips is one of nature’s most beautiful creations. You do not have to be a avid birdwatcher to enjoy this scene, it is available to everybody and it is free, turn up by a local bus from Augustów, or better still canoe down the river or in this case over some farmer’s field - you can always say it was difficult to see the boundaries. Roads to smaller villages become impassable, as for centuries before the only viable means of transport is the boat. Older people in the villages
also recollect how not so long ago, even the deceased had to be transported by boat and the story goes, how one boat was not properly tied up and when the cortege came back the deceased had floated down the river and into oblivion, maybe even devoured by hungry wolves after the long winter. In 2005, this phenomenon of nature had added poignancy, it occurred almost as the same time as the Pope died, the nation wept and so did the river and it was also the day the storks returned, as if to pay homage to Poland’s greatest ever son. Once the waters recede, the meadows become fertile pastoral grounds and the birds are replaced by cows, the verdant fields of Biebrza yet again turn into an inspiring and calming landscape. One of the purest pleasures in life and most rewarding is to visit Biebrza to see and breathe in the surrounding land-
scape of green fields and water meadows, and watch the marsh harriers flying overhead and the flocks of cranes showing off their magnificent plumage in the early evening light. The park at this time of year becomes a bird safari; the birds are waiting for their young to hatch before they fly off. There is a tendency in life to admire objects which are large, however let us not forget those which are of smaller stature - the park is acknowledged by many naturalists as having one of the highest populations of Aquatic Warblers, in simple terms, a bird which is slightly smaller than a sparrow and just as difficult to see. Low intensity organic farming and the late growing season has created a habitat in which these birds can thrive, also the area has one the lowest population densities in Europe. Returning to all things big and beautiful however, the red
Walking with Storks Poland has its own lake district, an area boasting more than 1, 000 lakes – many interconnected by waterways - dense virgin forests rich in wildlife, wild berries and wild mushrooms, rambling meadows, generous hospitality and complete peace and quiet. Text by Nick Hadcock
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e set off for Poland with a certain sense of trepidation. Would we at last find the kind of weather that would cast the awful English summer away as a distant memory? And what about the journey? We were travelling from Kraków, in the South of Poland to the Pensjonat Borecka, situated between Olecko and Giżycko in Mazuria, just 15 kilometers from the Northern border with Russia at Kaliningrad. We took comfort from the thought that if storks can navigate their way there - and every year 40% of Europe’s stork breeding population do make their way to Poland from Southern Africa, most of them to Mazury then so could we. As it turned out, we needn’t have worried on either count. We enjoyed 10 days of unbroken warmth and blue skies and the journey, though long (600 km), was comfortably manageable in a day, travelling via Warsaw (a shorter 3-4 hour journey), It was also, in every sense, worth the effort, The remoteness of the pen48 January 10
sjonat and its proximity to lake and forest allowed everybody to completely switch off and enjoy a heavenly, stress-free ten days of peace and quiet. Owner, Marek Pankiewicz, is an energetic and conscientious host. He is also very amusing. He draws his guests into his world - a world completely in tune with the local environment and the rhythms of the countryside - with charm and humour. He is also a doer, an organiser. The story of how Pensjonat Borecka came into being is perhaps illustrative of the energy and warmth of the man. As a boy he had always dreamt of owning a property in the Mazurian Lake District, close to the town of his birth, Olecko. He held onto that dream as he built up a successful business in Łódź, on the other side of Poland. When 250 hectares of land came on the market at Szwałk he grabbed at the chance to realise his boyhood dream. There were two buildings on the land. One became his home and
the other now houses Pensjonat Borecka. It was a former school. Szwałk (pronounced Shvouk) was a massive undertaking but before starting work on converting the old school there was one set of very important, distant-travelling guests he wanted to first attend to and attract - the storks. He built a flat nest of sticks on top of a telegraph pole behind the house. In Mazury it is a point of pride as well as good fortune to have nesting storks on your property. Some pay a heavy cost however. After years of continued use these nests can grow to a weight of over a ton and roofs have been known to collapse under the pressure. Marek’s work on the nest paid off. A pair of storks arrived that first spring. This year three eggs hatched and we walked freely among these most stately of birds as they searched for frogs and insects amongst the long grass in front of the house. With three lakes within a kilometre of the house there was also a regular
supply of fish which Marek fed to the birds. But the game wardens in the area recommend a cut-off date for feeding because the birds must start their 9000 kilometre flight back to Southern Africa at the end of August. A regular supply of food tends to discourage thoughts of departure. Even storks have to be taken out of their comfort zone. As for the guests comfort zone, there were plenty of activities for those needing to expend energy. Within our group, there were several keen fishermen. Marek set them the task of trying to catch one or several of the 20kg carp that feed at the bottom of Szwałk Mały, the lake overlooked by the guest house and a little under 20 hectares in size. The fishermen had access to sixteen jetties as well as a rowing boat. There is an International Carp Competition held on the lake every year. On the first day one of our party caught a 3kg pike. There were also pike perch, perch and zander. For those who didn’t want to fish, there were six kayaks available for exploring the lake. The kayaks were also available for more serious expeditions. It is possible to disappear for a whole day without going over the same piece of water twice. We travelled across three lakes - one of them in the middle of a forest nature reserve - and then paddled down a small river to Borki where the kayaks were collected and returned to the hotel. Anti-mosquito treatment is highly recommended but the trip was very special and in some places the dense forest is reminiscent of the tropics. In our party we had several members who were happier to lie in the sun and catch up on some reading. They were catered for with a pedalo on the home lake - ideal for floating blissfully on the water with a good book. When it became too hot, the water was the
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Undercover Museums
started gathering Polish graphic work from the early 1960s and raised funds for a museum. After nearly two decades of relentless work, the Museum of Caricature was launched in 1978 as a section of the Museum of Literature, settling in its current location on Kozia Street (near the Castle District) in 1983. “We have collected over 20, 000 original caricatures created by mostly Polish artists in our archive ranging from the 18th century to today,” said Grażyna Godziejewska, chief curator at the museum for nearly twenty years. “Every year we have about 8 to 10 exhibitions in the museum, from which some are retrospective and while others showcase contemporary artworks.” ulica Koza 11, Warsaw Tel. +48 22 827 8895 www.muzeumkarykatury.pl
Museum of Technology Muzeum Techniki
Occupying the entire southern corner of the monumental Palace of Culture and Science, this museum readily appeals to tech enthusiasts of any generation as well as westerners keen on catching a glimpse of the past. The display, arranged in a seemingly scattered and casual way, covers every facet of Polish technology from mining to metallurgy, transportation to communication technology. There’s an impressive parade of antique cars and motorcycles, in52
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cluding the domestically produced pre-war Sokół bike, the chassis of a prototype sport limousine Lux-Sport dating from 1936 and a bisected yellow Polski Fiat 126p, the iconic Polish city car from the 1970s. Tour the museums to see a bunch of 19th-century music mechanisms (think jukeboxes, barrel organs and musical boxes), retro washing machines and irons and even a quirky display of astronomical instruments such as models of Sputnik 1 and 2, the Apollo crew cabins and space shuttle Columbia. Morse’s and Hughe’s telegraph, Graham Bell’s hand-operated telephone exchanges and the story of the Polish Enigma decipherers are also things to look out for. Best of all, time seems to have stood still here since its opening in 1955. Social and political changes have gone unnoticed, technical innovations - as ironic as that may sound - have been ignored and the
Galicia Jewish Museum Galicja Żydowskie Muzeum
climate has not changed. Sturdy iron dustbins, rotary dial telephones and clunky fans from the Soviet era are still actively in use by the legion of grey-haired guards poised in the corner of each room. Entrance fee is PLN 10 (approx. £2) for adults and PLN 5 (approx. £1) for students. Experience: Priceless.
Communist Party. But today, the Jewish community in Kraków is busy re-emerging and re-establishing itself with creative new projects and initiatives that look positively into the future. “You can not study Jewish culture without studying Polish history and culture, because they where together for too long to separate them,” says Chris Schwarz, Director and Founder of the Galicia Jewish Museum in Kraków. Established in 2004, the museum houses a bookshop, café,
Plac Defilad 1, Warsaw Tel. +48 22 656 6747 www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl
The Jewish faith and culture has a rich millennium-long history in Poland, one overshadowed by the tragic Holocaust genocide and the following destructive policies of the Polish
You can not study Jewish culture without studying Polish history and culture.
education room, Media Resource Centre and a large main hall with four exhibition spaces that host scores of contemporary Jewish musical and cultural events, “The museum has taken a big step forward in being intellectually ahead of everybody else in the way we present Jewish history from a very modern perspective. We put Jewish history into a Polish context and portray both the religious and non-religious aspects of the culture.” Functioning as a mill before the war, the renovated structure now has a post-industrial, contemporary feel – combining glass, metal and dark woods – whilst still retaining many of the building’s original elements and structure. At the core of the museum is the permanent photographic exhibition, ‘Traces of Memory’, which pieces together traces of the Jewish past still visible in the Polish landscape today. Con-
temporary art on Jewish themes form the basis of the supporting temporary exhibitions, such as the photo-essay by Israeli photographer Yigal Gawze’s on the aesthetics of Bauhaus - on display from February, which highlights trends in modernist architecture and design that define the urban fabric of Tel Aviv. ulica Dajwór 18, Kraków Tel. +48 12 421 6842 www.galiciajewishmuseum.org
www.discoverpl.com
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Photography by Shutterstock
Cosmetic Surgery in Poland: Looking Good, Feeling Great As the concept of travelling overseas for dental and medical treatment becomes more acceptable, Poland has also emerged as a popular destination for cosmetic surgery, with clinics across the country welcoming an increasing number of patients from the United Kingdom and Ireland. Text by Alison Hope 58 January 10
Cosmetic Surgery in Poland
ham, Bournemouth. Many pledge to recommend the clinic to friends and family. Whatever the procedure, the decision to go under the knife should never be taken lightly. Speak to any surgeon, clinic representative or patient, and they will all insist that research is the most crucial part of arranging surgery in another country. If you have access to the internet, it is worth setting aside a couple of hours to compare different clinics and what they have to offer. If you don’t have access to the internet at home, it is really worth seeing if you can get an internet connection at your local internet café or library and enlisting a friend or family member to help you navigate your way around the options available. Does a clinic’s website provide you with the information that you need? Is it easy to find out about the surgeon’s qualifications and experience? A good clinic will be upfront about the capabilities of its professionals. Be wary of a clinic that places a greater emphasis on the sight-seeing excursions that can be arranged for you over and above the skill and expertise of the surgeons. Another great piece of advice is not to make any decisions based on price alone. Sometimes it is worth spending a little bit extra on seeing a more experienced surgeon, or in treatment at a clinic that has better facilities. There are a number of specialist travel agents which can arrange everything – from introducing patient to the most suitable surgeon, to taking care of all travel arrangements. They are often on call while the patient is in Poland, whether he or she forgets to pack a mo-
bile ‘phone charger or needs some bottled water and an English language newspaper to read during the recovery period. Some patients chose these services because they provide complete piece of mind, however more and more private clinics in Poland are appointing an English speaking member of staff who is dedicated to taking care of patients from the United Kingdom and Ireland. The next step is to get in contact with the clinic. Draw up a shortlist of several clinics and also make a note of any specific questions that you would like to ask. Any clinic that provides vague, unclear responses, or tries to give you the hard sell on a package of procedures that you don’t really want should be crossed off your list. A good clinic will, on the other hand, respond to your questions with clear and concise answers and provide you with a detailed breakdown of the costs involved – including blood tests, overnight accommodation in the clinic and surgical garments. Don’t be afraid to ask if a clinic can put you in contact with a previous patient, who can candidly tell you all about their experience and pass on any practical tips of their own. It goes without saying that you should never commit to a procedure if you have any niggling doubts about the surgeon or the clinic. While surgeons can often make a fairly accurate assessment the procedure based on photographs of the patient, an initial consultation is always necessary. A good surgeon will always be thorough and understand the patient’s expectations, as well as be able to explain what is – and what is not – possible. The initial con-
sultation can be carried out when the patient arrives in Poland for their procedure, though it is generally best if the patient can make an initial visit to Poland so that they can meet the surgeon and become familiar with the clinic before making the decision to go ahead with the procedure. As there are so many low-cost flights to Poland these days, this is not as extravagant as it sounds. The recovery period is a crucial part of any procedure. There is always the temptation to fly home as soon as possible; however it is wise to factor in a couple of extra days’ stay in Poland – maybe longer depending on the procedure. Monika Chomiuk of Artplastica explains that patients are provided with a detailed list of post-operative instructions, which gives step by step instructions on how to change the dressings, the type of stitches that have been used, as well as other important details. Above all, rest is essential, especially in the days and even weeks after surgery. A further benefit of having cosmetic surgery in Poland is the fact that it is highly unlikely that you will bump into somebody you know during the initial recovery period, when – depending on the procedure – you may look bruised or swollen, and will certainly have to wear surgical dressings. Instead, you can create the impression of having gone on holiday for a few weeks, and returned looking revived and refreshed! While having cosmetic surgery in another country does require extra planning, the time spent researching the options in Poland certainly pays off, especially for patients who are saving thousands of pounds on their procedure.
Dermal Fillers and Skin Rejuvenation As well as surgical procedures, it is also worth considering dermal fillers and skin rejuvenation in Poland. Dr Robert Chmielewski at the Vita Med Clinic near clinic uses injections of hyaluronic acid to restore firmness to the skin on the hands, and reduce the signs of ageing. He explains, “The treatment is based on injection of special stabilising gel with hyaluronic acid through a very thin needle, which minimizes the risk of damaging the vessels and nerve fibres. The hand is then gently massaged in order to evenly spread the substance, which results in giving the skin a naturally youthful appearance. The effects can be seen immediately and - apart from small puncture marks - there are no marks of intervention. Hands look more ‘plumped up’ and thickened veins are no longer visible.” For further information, visit www.cmvitamed.pl
Cosmetic Dentistry Having the perfect smile can also make a big difference to how you look and feel. Cosmetic dentistry is a popular treatment in Poland, with some procedures at Polish clinics costing up to 60% less in the United Kingdom and Ireland. Uni-Dent is a Warsaw based dental clinic that offers a wide range of cosmetic dental procedures, including whitening, implants and crowns. For further information, visit www.unident.pl
KUŹNICZKI MANOR OFFERS A WIDE RANGE OF AESTHETIC TREATMENTS: ULTRASHAPE - a non-invasive alternative to liposuction which is safe and painless. GOLDEN THREADS - look ten years younger with this anti-aging treatment that gives and instant lifting ef-
fect and smoothes out wrinkles.
FOCUS RF AND RADIOFREQUENCY TREATMENT - stimulates the collagen fibres to reduce the appearance of deep wrinkles and lift the chin and jowl area, and to tone and lift loose skin on the abdomen and thighs as well as reduce cellulite. LPG ENDERMOLOGIE - Spectacular effects with cellulite reduction and body contouring, slimming, skin firming as well as treat burns, swelling and post - surgery scarring. WEIGHT-LOSS TREATMENT - effective weight-loss carefully monitored by medical staff Other aesthetic procedures, including non-surgical skin refinement, chemical peels, dermal fillers and treatment to combat excess sweating. KUŹNICZKI MANOR - CENTRE FOR AESTHETIC MEDICINE 80-437 Gdańsk, 13 Wajdeloty Street, tel: +48 (0) 58 520 47 51 Mob: +48 (0) 501 236 957, e-mail: ome@kuzniczki.pl, www.ome.kuzniczki.pl
11/17 2 09 12 8:10 P www.discoverpl.com
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Kraków - Europe’s New Centre of Business and Culture?
Photography Courtesy of Nordic House
Kraków is one of Poland’s best-loved cities, attracting visitors from all over the world. Many choose to climb Wawel Hill to visit the Royal Castle and marvel at the panoramic views of the historic Old Town, or soak up the atmosphere in the Kazimierz, Kraków’s fascinating Jewish district, while others are attracted by the business opportunities. Text by Rafał Malarski
Janus Kahl (left) attends a conference hosted by Nordic House with Jerzy Hausner (right).
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hen it comes to business, there are many advantages to Kraków. Poland’s second city is perfectly placed in the heart of Central Europe. It has excellent air connections to most European capitals, including Reykjavik, Madrid, Paris, Rome, London, Oslo, Copenhagen, Budapest, Prague, Stockholm, Helsinki and there are even direct flights to New York and Tel Aviv. By train, it is only a two hour journey from Warsaw, the Polish capital. A city with a strong tradition of academia dating back several centuries, modern Kraków has over 13 universities and academic institutions, many of which are regarded as some of the most prestigious in Poland. Thanks to the city’s reputation as a centre of excellence, it has been selected as the venue for a number of international confer64 January 10
ences and summits hosted by bodies such as the EU and NATO. It is fair to say that Kraków has emerged as a major commercial centre in recent years, and it now provides the perfect environment for businesses to become established. One such business is Nordic House. Based in Kraków, Nordic House is a centre of business and culture that was set up with the aim of encouraging and promoting co-operation between the Nordic countries and southern Poland in many aspects, ranging from business, culture and tourism. It also advises Nordic companies on all matters concerning export to Poland. Nordic House covers an area corresponding to the consular span of the Royal Danish Consulate, which also has its seat in the house. This area comprises of the following regions: Lesser Poland (Kraków),
Silesia (Katowice), Podkarpacie (Rzeszów) and Świętokrzyskie (Kielce). This particular part of Poland is a very significant industrial centre, and one that displays a lot
With so many projects and partnerships on the go, one thing is certain - Nordic House is keeping one step ahead
of potential for the future. Not only has it embraced modern technology, it also boasts over 12 million inhabitants and several institutions of higher education. One of the most important projects at Nordic House is the ‘Centre for Alternative Energy Sources’, which was created to promote the use of alternative sources of energy, such a s wind power, solar bower and biomass. The building itself uses developed low energy heating systems which incorporate solar panels and there is also under-floor heating that is controlled by radio waves. This project has been financed by the Danish Energy Agency and the Danish engineering firm, Danfoss. The CEO of Nordic House is Janus Kahl. Half Danish, half Polish, he lived in Denmark for many years, before arriving in Poland ten years ago in order to develop and promote relations between the Scandinavian countries and Poland. He became a Honorary Royal Danish Consul in Kraków and shortly after, a Consul for Sweden. He then went on to initiate the Scandinavian-Polish Chamber of Commerce before creating Nordic House. “Nordic House is a consulting company, which aims to be your preferred partner in Poland. This means that our staff are dedicated to helping you and your company to manage all the challenges that you may encounter when you approach the Polish market,” says Kahl. “We have a long established network of professionals including lawyers, accountants and local authorities. We can help you to launch your business on the Polish market, and help you to develop your sales strategy and services.” As well as providing comprehensive portfolio of consulting services, Nordic House also offers a conference suite and luxury apart-