November 2009 Issue 19 www.discoverpl.com £2.99
WinterSportsIssue Cover Story: Winter sports in Poland on page 16
London | Warsaw
Business | Lifestyle | Travel
City Focus:
Business:
on page 28
on page 70
Everything you need to know about Kraków
Poland’s alcohol market
Christmas Shopping in Poland tion Get inspira
6 on page 5
Winter Sports in Poland
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The Bieszczady Mountains www.wrota.podkarpackie.pl
Podkarpackie is one of a very few provinces in Poland where all you can take part in all manner of active pursuits during the winter months. There are several ski slopes that cater for all different abilities, running tracks through picturesque parks, and also ice rinks and even rural spots where dog-sled and snowmobile enthusiasts can let loose. The ski season in Beskidy Mountain typically starts in mid December and runs until the end of March. This part of Poland is ideal for family holidays, and there are plenty of qualified ski instructors who are particularly good at putting children at ease on the slopes.
Podkarpackie’s ski slopes are wellequipped, with chair-lifts, floodlights and snow machines. Visitors won’t have to look too far to find equipment rental stations and shops selling the latest gear.
Taking a breath of fresh air… gliding down the slopes
of Podkarpackie on skis or a snowboard… the crunching snow underneath your feet as you run along a forest trail… a torch-lit sleigh ride… these are all unforgettable memories.
The most popular ski slopes in Podkarpackie are found
in Ustrzyki Dolne, Gromadzyń and Laworta, Arłamów, Karlików, Bystre, Bałucianka, Puławy, Weremień and Wujskie near Sanok.
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Beauty and aesthetics in dentistry
Beauty and aesthetics in dentistry. Dental Excellence is one of Eurpe`s most cutting-edge dental clinics, whose staff boasts long-time professional experience and focuses on a single goal – PATIENTS` SATISFACTION. Our services are targeted toward those patients, who place particular emphasis on their beautiful smile and health. At their disposal: complex medical care provided by doctors of various specialities technologies representing the highest world standards friendly and professional care in intimate conditions possibility of reserving a few days` terms in order to minimalise the treatment time service in English, German and Russian.
We know
Ladies and Gentlemen, It is great honour and pleasure to invite you, on behalf of our entire team, to the Dental Excellence Clinic. My intention and simultaneously professional dream was to create a clinic providing complex services for its Patients. We offer them quality and long-lasting treatment effects. The joy and happiness of our Patients, who can once again believe in themselves, are the greatest satisfaction. Smile. You are in good hands!
Tel. +48 22 868 55 87
www.dentalexcellence.pl
From the first of November 2009 we change our location: 56 Jerozolimskie Avenue, 00-803 Warsaw www.discoverpl.com
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Photograph by Andrew Hope
Welcome! Welcome! The darker evenings are creeping in… the summer sandals have been replaced by winter boots… and thoughts turn to planning a winter break. Where better than the mountains of Southern Poland, where the ski resorts would give the slopes in France or Italy a run for their money? And talking of money, Poland is currently excellent value for money thanks to the strong pound against the złoty. This month, Discover Poland meets Alan Garcia from tour operator Sunshine World, and takes a look at winter sports in Poland. The colder months also mean that the festive season is not too far away. For a shopping experience with a twist, why not head over to Poland? You’ll find plenty of inspiration on page 56, where our feature on shopping points you in the direction of Poland’s retail hot-spots. This month’s featured city is Kraków, one of the world’s favourite cities. Don’t take our word for it, though – the historic city regularly appears in polls and surveys of popular travel destinations. It is impossible to condense the many aspects of Kraków into one edition of Discover Poland, but we did our best – let me know what you think! Perhaps you have some travel tips of your own? Why not drop me an e-mail a.hope@discoverpl.com Until next time,
Alison Managing Director Tomasz P. Kmiecik t.kmiecik@discoverpl.com Editor Alison Hope a.hope@discoverpl.com Contributors John Alaszewski, Toby Beck, Aiden Brisland, Dr Elisabeth Dancey, Alan Garcia, Barbara Kaniewska, Janusz Kasprowicz, Alicja Kosicka, Anna J. Kutor, Łukasz Liese, Anna Maria McKeever, Anna Podlesna, Paweł Poręba, Nicholas Richardson, Barry Tomalin, Agata Zborowska Graphic AdStudio.co.uk Manager Krzysztof Gackowski studio@AdStudio.co.uk Lead Graphic Designer Rafał Szmidt; Artworker Agnieszka Czech Advertising Manager Izabela Zajączkowska Marketing and Advertising Sales Executive Anna Trznadel: at@discoverpl.com
Discover Poland is published by Fortis Media LTD with the cooperation of The Polish National Tourist Office
6 Seasonal Images Kołobrzeg in Autumn
8 Discover Poland News 13 Historic Hotels of Poland
Chotynia Mansion in Masovia
14 News from the Polish National Tourist Office in London 16 Winter Sports in Poland
Why Poland is a popular destination for skiing and snowboarding
26 Top 10 Sports in Poland 28 Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
All correspondence and advertising enquiries should be addressed to: Discover Poland, Fortis Media LTD, 603 Cumberland House, 80 Scrubs Lane, London NW10 6RF Tel: + 44 (0) 208 96 444 88, Fax: + 44 (0) 208 96 077 37,
Everything that you need to know about the ever-popular historic city
48 Lower Silesia’s Hidden Gems
Things to do in and around Bolesławiec
Advertising: (London) + 44 (0) 208 96 444 88 ext. 401 (Warsaw) +48 (0) 22 219 55 48, (Cracow) +48 (0) 12 394 65 88, e-mail: sales@discoverpl.com, www.discoverpl.com
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All materials are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and dates are corrected at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Discover Poland are not necessarily those of Discover Poland. Fortis Media LTD does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owners’ risk.
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Magazine Contents: November 2009
28 16
60 Cuisine: Gourmet Warsaw 62 Top 10 Festivals and Events 64 The Port of Gdańsk
68
Gateway to the World
Life in Poland: Right Place, Right Time
50 Discovering Kuiavia-Pomerania
Iain Batty from CMS Cameron McKenna on how to succeed in Central Europe
70
Poland’s Alcohol Market
52 Looking Good in Kraków
76
Cross Cultural Business:
78
Law in Poland:
Why Toruń and Bydgoszcz make a perfect weekend break destination
Dr Elisabeth Dancey on how the Face & Body Institute came to be established in Kraków
56 ‘Tis the Season to Go Shopping
Inspiration for Christmas gifts
80
Poland after Communism
Shareholder rights in a Limited Liability Company
Recession? What recession?
The impact of the global downturn on Poland
www.discoverpl.com
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Kołobrzeg in Autumn
Photography courtesy of the town of Kołobrzeg
A popular destination for summer holidays, Kołobrzeg is in fact beautiful all year round.
The Harbour Autumn Sky Kołobrzeg’s harbour, with its iconic lighthouse, looks particularly picturesque as the sun sets low. Even outside of the summer season, the harbour is bustling with activity.
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November 09
Kołobrzeg in Autumn
Autumn Colour Warming Hot Chocolate As the days become colder, the trees in Kołobrzeg’s parks turn warm and vibrant shades of red, brown and gold. It is time to wrap up and enjoy a hot chocolate in one of the towns many cafés. www.discoverpl.com
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Txns To xg Discover Poland: News
Subscription:
bench’, special bread rolls baked with lovage, and classical music concerts in the Market Square. For further information, visit www.chelmno.pl
Discover Poland October 2009
Issue 18 www.discove
FamilyIssue
Cover Story:
Poland for Children
rpl.com £2.99
London | Warsaw
on page 18
City Focus:
Warsaw - everythin you need to know g that the Polish capital about
on page 28
Win Flights to Warsaw
Business | Lifestyle | Travel
Business:
Poland’s property market is bouncing back
Vita-Medical, Kraków
Three pairs of flights from Gatwick up for grabs
on page 45
Terms and conditions apply
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Dentistry:
on page 72
Poland Welco its Younger Vi mes sitors 9/17/2009 4:53:02 PM
Never miss an edition of Discover Poland with a subscription. Get Discover Poland delivered to your door every month, for just £ 24.00 (£ 46 to addresses in Poland – please get in contact for the subscription rates to other destinations). That’s a saving of over 20% of the cover price. To order your subscription, visit www.discoverpl.com or e-mail subscriptions@discoverpl.com.
Regular readers of Discover Poland will already be familiar with the fact that dental treatment costs considerably less in Poland than it does in the United Kingdom or Ireland – and now it is set to cost even less! The Vita-Medica clinic is offering a 10% discount on all dental treatment carried out before midday. This offer is valid until 31 December 2009, and is available on a wide range of dental procedures, including whitening, veneers and implants. For further information visit www.vitamedical.pl
Don’t forget that you can share Discover Poland with your friends – Discover Poland is available online. Visit www.discoverpl.com/epages to download the latest edition, and also browse previous ones.
Tourism: Sunshine World Scoops Midlands Focus Tourism Award for 2009 Sunshine World, the tour operator that specialises in winter sports breaks in Poland has been selected as the winner of the Midlands Focus Tourism Award for 2009. The Directors of regional newspaper, the Midlands Focus were very impressed with the services provided by Sunshine World and, in particular, the entrepreneurial talents of Managing Director, Alan Garcia. So much so, that the publication’s hierarchy have voted unanimously in favour of presenting the company with the annual BA Award for Tourism.
in opening up new and largely unexplored travel and activity opportunities to the British travelling public. The entire Sunshine World team has been energised further to continue our efforts to deliver the very best and friendliest service in the travel industry while seeking to deliver the lowest prices in the highest value destinations we can find!” For further information on Sunshine World, visit www.sunshineworld.co.uk
A qualified snowboard instructor, Alpine ski instructor and lawn tennis coach, Alan’s experience provides him with industry insight as to what people are looking for on their holiday on the slopes. Speaking from his office in London, Alan said, “It has been a great surprise and very welcome honour to receive this accolade from the Midlands Focus newspaper for our pioneering work
Chełmno: City of Lovers
Competition: Fantasy Park, Warsaw Fantasy Park in Warsaw is a great Competition place to spend a rainy afternoon – it’s got ten-pin bowling, billiards, arcade games and one of the city’s largest play centres for small children all under one roof. There is also a bar and nightclub – keep an eye out for themed party nights as we head towards the festive season.
Planning to whisk your loved-one off on a romantic break for Valentine’s Day? Where better than the historic town of Chełmno? Often described as the ‘Kraków of Northern Poland‘ on account of its charm and allure, Chełmno is also known as the ‘City of Lovers’ due to the fact that relics of St. Valentine which have been housed in the town’s parish church for several centuries. The romantic theme continues with the ‘lovers’
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November 09
Discover Poland has five pairs of tickets for bowling and billiards up
for grabs – to enter, simply visit www.fantasypark.com then answer the following question: How many Fantasy Parks are there in Poland? Send your answer along with your name and address by e-mail to feedback@discoverpl.com Closing date is 30 November 2009. Tickets must be redeemed by 31 January 2009. Terms and conditions apply.
of television’, a photography exhibition that showcases the work of local photographers, Krzysztof Falcman and Andrzej Seweryński, commemorative coins and postmarks, and prizes awarded to young inventors who excel in the fields of telecommunications. For further information, visit www.lebork.pl
Festival: Nipkow’s Year, Lębork 2010 will be celebrated in the Northern Polish town of Lębork as ‘Nipkow’s Year’ in honour of Paul Nipkow, who invented a rotating disc (known as ‘Nipkow’s disc) that could transfer images at a distance, the technology behind the first television sets. Paul Nipkow was a resident of Lębork, and the year 2010 marks 150 years since his birth. The year-long festival will involve lots of televisual events, including a competition for young people that will test their knowledge of ‘Lębork, the birthplace
Radio: London Bridge Reopens London Bridge, the Anglo-Polish cultural radio show is back! After a summer away, host George Matlock from
Discover Poland: News
Radio ORLA fm is ready for more chat and discussion, as well as the best of contemporary Polish music. The show has previously welcomed guests such as the Polish Ambassador Barbara Tuge-Erecinska, Jozef Broda the multiintrumentalist who plays wet leaves and singer Basia Trzetrzelewska, who is best known for her hits with 80’s favourites Matt Bianco.
London Bridge has been the flagship programme of Radio ORLA since the station launched online in May 2006. It remains the only show for Poles presented in English. You can hear it live from 23:00 on 91.8 Hayes FM every Sunday, as well as at www. orla.fm every Monday from 20:00.
walks of life who are actively planning to travel abroad for treatment. They will also have a unique opportunity to meet and discuss their medical requirements with a host of hospitals, clinics and consultants representing the world’s leading medical tourism destinations right on their doorstep” said Event Director Nav Mann. Also expected to attend are healthcare professionals from the United Kingdom, who are looking for business co-operations with clinics in Poland. Exhibitors will be promoting a wide range of health and medical services including dental treatments, cosmetic surgery, IVF and other medical procedures. Exhibitors will also include medical spas, health resorts, insurance companies, travel agencies, intermediaries and medical tour operators.
Medical Tourism:
UNI-DENT
Our clinic is equipped with the latest dental technologies, including microscope assisted endodontics which achieve accurate diagnostics and increase the success rate of treatments such as root canal surgery. ٠ Certificate ISO 9001-2001 ٠ Cosmetic dentistry – reconstruction ٠ One day whitening ٠ Microsurgical dentistry – the latest technologies involving an endodontic microscope ٠ Modern Orthodontics – fixed and removable braces ٠ Surgery – implants, extractions, and the surgical extraction of impacted wisdom teeth ٠ Prosthetics – a wide range of dentures, bridges, porcelain, gold-based crowns and porcelain fillings
Destination Health 17-18 April 2010, London Poland’s leading private hospitals and clinics offering dental and cosmetic surgery will be exhibiting their services at Destination Health, a new health and medical tourism consumer show aimed at patients looking to travel abroad for treatment. Supported by ‘The Independent’, one of the UK’s leading national newspapers and Europe’s number one medical tourism website ‘Treatment Abroad’ along with media partners ‘Discover Poland’ magazine, Destination Health will take place at London’s Olympia Exhibition & Conference Centre. Destination Health is expected to attract up to 5,000 people from all
DENTAL CLINIC
Visitors to the show will be offered free seminars, presentations and all the help and information they need to make their decision to travel abroad for treatment. Entry to the show is free if visitors register in advance. The price at the door is £12. For further information, visit www.destinationhealth.co.uk
Dental Clinic Uni-Dent s.c. 19 Literacka Street 01-864 Warszawa www.unident.pl e-mail:centrum@unident.pl Ph: 0048 22 669 80 90
www.discoverpl.com
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Txns To xg Discover Poland: News
ARS Cosmetic Dental Clinic Why visit ARS Clinic for dental treatment?
• Cheaper than dental treatment in the United Kingdom and other parts of Western Europe. • Clinic is located in Warsaw– there are different flights per day from the United Kingdom and Ireland. • The clinic is a modern and equipped with the latest technologies. • Ars Clinic employs a team of highly skilled dental surgeons who speak English. • Ars Clinic will assist patients on hotel accommodation, and help to arrange airport transfers – patients have nothing to worry about. Call now to make an appointment: +48 22 465 95 07 or just send us an email: dentist@klinikaars.pl Address: 3 Poznańska Street 00-680 Warsaw, Poland www.klinikaars.pl
LONDON
WARSAW
Christmas Shopping in Tri-City At this time of year, thoughts turn to Christmas shopping, and with the złoty currently offering excellent value against the pound, it makes sense to head to Poland for a spot of retail therapy. Tri-City, the conurbation that comprises of Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot on the Baltic coast, is one of the most popular shopping destinations in Poland – from the amber galleries in the narrow streets of Gdańsk to the out-of town mega malls. For further information on the best places to shop, visit www.shopandsee.eu
Exhibition:
Dental Treatment:
Distortions of the Mind and Body, 14th November24th December 2009, Northampton
New Premises for Dental Excellence, Warsaw
The Polish artist, Jarosław Ancuta will be presenting an exhibition of his work produced over the last ten years, since his arrival in the United Kingdom. Described as an imaginary world of weirdness, beauty and satire, Ancuta’s work mixes together twisted and deformed silhouettes in order to create an ‘inner world’ that is unpredictable and gradually evolves in the artists mind. The exhibition will take place at the jGallery in Northampton. For further information, visit www.jgallery.org.uk
Dental Excellence has just moved into new premises in the heart of the Polish capital. The new address is Al. Jerozolimskie 56C, Warsaw 00-803. Clinic Manager, Beata Dethloff explained the reason for the relocation, “We felt that a more central location would make us more accessible to patients, especially those who are coming to Poland for treatment from other countries such as the United Kingdom. For further information, visit www.dentalexcellence.pl
Located in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town, Staromiejska Restaurant is popular with locals and visitors alike. 25/08/2009 12:47:32 Exquisitely prepared Polish dishes are complimented by a carefully selected wine list. Staromiejska Restaurant offers an intimate atmosphere and magnificent views of the Royal Castle. In our venue we organise various events and can cater for up to 80 people. If you are willing to spend unforgetable, well organised Christmas Party in Warsaw, be our guest.
P_413.indd 1
15/19 Zamkowy Square Warsaw Old City 0048 22 831 02 59 Fax 0048 22 635 93 47 www.restauracjastaromiejska.com.pl ٠ email: officerestaurant@o2.pl 10
Shopping:
November 09
Discover Poland: News
Travel Industry:
Representatives of Poland’s travel industry will be in London for the annual World Travel Market that takes place at the ExCel exhibition centre. Meet representatives from different regions and cities of Poland, as well as incoming tour operators and hotel chains. The World Travel Market brings together every aspect of the travel industry under one roof. The exhibition, which fills the vast exhibition halls of ExCel in London’s Docklands, show-
cases over 5, 000 suppliers of travel and tourism products and services, including airlines, hotels, resorts, insurance companies and tour operators. In tandem with the exhibition, there is a comprehensive series of seminars which run throughout the four days of the event. The World Travel Market is a great opportunity for networking, as regions, tour operators, travel agents and other travel industry professionals gather together at one of Europe’s largest travel industry events. For further information on the World Travel Market, visit www. wtmlondon.com
Pictures courtesy of the World Travel Market
Poland at the World Travel Market, 9-12 November 2009, London
Spa: Dharmata Massage and Spa Centre, Kraków
Do you dream about your own home? In the city centre? Without a mortgage? Would you like to have your own place in Wroclaw? A place where you can enjoy the smell of your favourite flowers, where aromatic bath, comfortable armchair and cup of infusion tea awaits you? Whenever you need to unwind sauna, jacuzzi or massage will be within your reach. In the restaurant you will experience a culinary journey around the world and taste dishes inspired by exotic places and seasons of the year.
The Dharmata Massage and Spa Centre is introducing exotic spa treatments to Kraków with the arrival of two new spa therapists from the Indonesian island of Bali. Sensuous massages and facials using natural oils, ritualistic manicures and exfoliating anti-cellulite treatments using Balinese coffee will be on offer for a limited period. For further information, visit www.dharmata.pl
A place with a soul, medieval architecture and spacious rooms with stunning interiors. You will get the first class service from our friendly staff who will become your good mates shortly. All that under the glass roof of The Granary in Wroclaw.
WWW.GRANARYHOTEL.COM www.discoverpl.com
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Txns To xg Discover Poland: News
Discover Poland Now Available at London Airports
desks, at gates, in departure lounges and in arrivals halls.
Website: www.chopingame.pl
Pick up a free copy of Discover Poland next time you are travelling through Heathrow, Gatwick or Stansted airport. Discover Poland is now available at distribution points in the three largest airports serving London and the South East of England. Working with media distribution specialist, Green Bug Media, Discover Poland will be available at 40 different distribution points at Gatwick, Heathrow and Stansted airports. The distribution points can be found at check-in
THE WHITE LILY is the perfect place for both work and leisure, an ideal hideaway for those who love peace and quiet and who appreciate professional service. In our carefully designed interiors you will find everything you need to feel comfortable and secure.
To mark the 200th anniversary of the birth of Frederic Chopin, a new webbased computer game celebrating the composer’s life has been created. One of the great masters of Romantic music, Chopin was born in the Polish village of Żelazowa Wola, not far from Warsaw, in 1810. Famed for popularising the traditional Polish mazurka or ‘mazurek’ he is one of Poland’s favourite sons and will be celebrated throughout the country next year. The simple yet informative game at www.chopingame.pl takes players through Chopin’s life and times,
The White Lily is situated in a terrace of apartment-houses: a perfect example of the Old Town’s unique atmosphere and character. It is located close to The Green Gate, one of the prettiest sights in town, between the Old and the New River Motlawa, in the vicinity of Gdansk Marina.
WILLA BIAŁA LILIA 80-750 Gdańsk, ul. Spichrzowa 16, tel. (+48 58) 301 70 74, fax (+48 58) 320 14 73, www.bialalilia.pl • e-mail: bialalilia@bialalilia.pl 12
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introducing them to his music and his legacy, against a background of his compositions.
Bird-watching: Bartan Hotel The picturesque Isle of Sobieszewo is a popular destination with bird-watchers, who come to spot rare species of bird from all over Europe. The island, which lies in the Vistula Estuary at the point where river flows into the Baltic Sea, is home to two nature reserves, known as Birds’ Paradise and Seagulls’ Sandbank. As well as the common species of gull, there are common sightings of European Tern, such as the Black Tern, the Whiskered Tern and the Caspian Tern. In the autumn months, visitors can count of seeing colonies of Little Gull, while winter brings numerous species of Diving Duck and Merginae, as well as rarities such as the Broad-billed Sandpiper, the Black Woodpecker, the Terek Sandpiperand even the Whitetailed Eagle.
Hotel Bartan in Gdańsk has put together a special package for birdwatching enthusiasts, which includes the following: Accommodation for 4 nights in a comfortable single or double room Buffet-style breakfasts and 3-course evening meals A one-day, guided bird-watching trip to the Birds’ Paradise Reserve A one-day, guided bird-watching trip to the Seagulls’ Sandbank Reserve A one-day, guided bird-watching trip to the Cormorant Reserve Packed lunch for each of the trips For further information, visit www.hotelbartan.pl
When it comes to property sales and letting, let Stelma Polska be your one-stop shop. Our team of enthusiastic, service-focused professionals work with you on an individual basis in order to take care of every aspect of your needs and even help you to save time and money.
STELMA POLSKA Sp. z o.o. Commercial Office, 5/7 Chmielna ensuite 11, 00-021 Warsaw
Historic Hotels of Poland
There are many historic places to stay in Poland, including majestic palaces and rustic farmhouses. This month, Discover Poland visits Chotynia Mansion in Masovia. Text by Barbara Kaniewska
Win
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Chotynia Mansion is a typical Masovian-style mansion from the 19th century, a one-story building with a central porch supported by two columns, surmounted with a triangular tympanum and a thickly thatched roof. Jarosław Cybulski, the wellknown and highly regarded connoisseur and importer of wines, decided to rescue it from dilapidation several years ago. As well as creating the guest-house, he established the Wine Academy within the mansion, offering numerous workshops, training courses, and tastings of vintages from all over the world. The wine theme continues in the guest rooms, where rooms are named after different varieties of grapes, so that guests can choose between the Pino Noir, the Chardonnay or Merlot rooms. The mansion is crammed full of antique furniture, curiosities and quirky knick-knacks – an ornately decorated bed is juxtaposed with a rustic style bed-side table and a Davenport chair from the 1920s. Antique wine bottles,
corks and other wine-related ornaments provide the finishing touches to eclectic feel of Chotynia Mansion. While the rooms are comfortable and spacious, the pride of the mansion is undoubtedly the kitchen, where a marvelous selection of Polish, Italian and French dishes are prepared – all complimented by a glass or two of fine wine!
Further Information Chotynia Mansion is a member of Historic Hotels of Poland – for further information on this organisation and to find out more about unique hotels across Poland, visit www.hhpoland.com
Chotynia
www.discoverpl.com
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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
News from the Polish National Tourist Office in London IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel
Photography by Rafał Szmidt
Poland Thrives as a Low-cost Winter Getaway
Successful Thames Festival for Polish National Tourist Office
to the world-famous salt mines at Wieliczka or simply spend a few days at your own pace in one of the world’s favourite cities.
Ewa Binkin
Your Questions The Polish National Tourist Office’s Answers
Ewa says…
The Polish National Tourist Office in London regularly receives enquiries from people planning to visit Poland. Here are just some of the more commonly asked questions.
is the PR & Product Development Manager of the Polish National Tourist Office in London
Christmas is just around the corner, so now’s the time to start thinking about a spot of festive shopping and a relaxing trip to Poland, all wrapped up in one wonderful city. Kraków’s Christmas market, held every year in the city’s Rynek, is one of Europe’s most celebrated festive fayres where you can buy handmade Polish artefacts, works of art, delicious bigos and winter warming mulled wine. A fairy tale city, Kraków is also an excellent choice for a winter getaway. Visit the renowned Wawel Castle, watch the world go by from one of the many coffee shops that border the UNESCO listed Rynek, head
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Photography by Shutterstock
The festival took place on the sunny weekend of 12 and 13 September 2009. Acting Director of the Polish
Don’t forget that Poland is still Euro-free, so you can enjoy a skiing holiday without burning a hole in your pocket. Acting Director of the Polish National Tourist Office Bogdan Becla said: “Poland is real bargain for British tourists who want to enjoy world-class culture, excellent food and great accommodation in wonderful country. We don’t have the Euro so a skiing trip to Poland can suit even the tightest of budgets.”
National Tourist Office in London, Bogdan Becla said: “The weekend was fantastic and the good weather meant that thousands of people were able to enjoy the festival and see what Poland has to offer. We’re delighted that so many people came to talk to us, and it was great that we were joined by partners from the regions of Pomerania and Greater Poland as well as representatives from the spa town of Rabka.”
Most towns and cities have at least a couple of internet cafés. Prices vary from town to town, but tend to be at around 2-3zł (about 50p to £1) per hour for internet access.
Q
How easy is it to get Wi-Fi connection in Poland?
Q
hours are Q What shops in Poland typically open? Are they closed on Sunday?
A
Shop opening hours vary and depend on local agreements, the size of the city in question, and holidays. However, generally speaking, grocery stores are open from 6 or 7 am until 6 or 7 pm from Monday to Saturday. Despite some politicians’ attempts to limit or even close shops on public holidays and Sundays, some of them do still open. This includes
Additionally, most hotels offer internet access in their rooms, however, it is not always free of charge. In good hotels you might find special rooms equipped with PCs and a complimentary internet connection.
smaller groceries stores, which usually open until 1pm, whilst large department stores and supermarkets tend to be open from 9 or 10 am until 9 pm. Certain shops, especially those close to city centres can be open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
Photography by Shutterstock
The Polish National Tourist Office in London enjoyed a very successful weekend at this year’s Thames Festival. This year, dozens of wonderful Polish delights were on offer including a blacksmith, wood carvings, amber jewellery, pottery and embroidery demonstrations, two children’s choirs, a jazz ensemble, and a wealth of travel information on the fascinating destination that is Poland.
With the summer over and winter just around the corner, now is a great time to start planning a winter break - and Poland makes the perfect destination. Zakopane, the ‘winter capital is nestled at the foot of the Tatra mountains and is a wonderful base from which to enjoy a surrounding area that offers some of the best skiing in central Europe. Much cheaper than the traditional skiing destinations of France and Italy, a trip to Zakopane also comes complete with some Polish-style winter warmers like bigos, smoked oscypek cheese and pierogi!
A
It is relatively easy to find an internet connection in Poland. Many airports, railway stations, restaurants and popular tourist attractions offer free internet connections for people with laptops or palmtops.
What is the currency in Poland?
The official currency is the Polish złoty, which is commonly abbreviated to zł. The exchange rate is around 4.64 zł to the pound sterling and 4.22 zł to the euro. Although Poland is a member of EU, the country does not plan to introduce the euro until 2012. Therefore, if you are looking for cost-effective holidays outside the eurozone, Poland is a great place to visit.
A
www.poland.travel
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
News from the Polish National Tourist Office in London IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel Polish National Tourist Office
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The World Travel Market at London’s ExCel 9-12 November 2009
ing the following regions of Poland: Dolny Śląsk (Lower Silesia), Kujawsko-Pomorskie (Kuyavia-Pomerania), City of Łódz, Lubuskie, Małopolska (Lesser Poland), Mazowsze
The World Travel Market brings together every aspect of the travel industry under one roof. The exhibition, which fills the vast exhibition halls of ExCel in London’s Docklands, showcases over 5, 000 suppliers of travel and tourism products and services, including airlines, hotels, resorts, insurance companies and tour operators. In tandem with the exhibition, there is a comprehensive series of seminars which run throughout the four days of the event.
(Mazovia), Pomorze (Pomerania), Śląsk (Silesia), City of Warsaw, Wielkopolska (Greater Poland), Zachodniopomorskie (Western Pomerania).
Photography by Shutterstock
Photography Courtesy of the World Travel Market
Every November, travel industry professionals from around the globe gather at London’s ExCel for the World Travel Market, one of the most significant events in the travel industry diary.
Independence Day Parade in Gdańsk 11 November 2009
Ever since gaining full independence in 1989, the city of Gdańsk has marked the date with the Independence Day Parade. This annual event has been gaining momentum over the years. The parade involves everyone – from youngsters through to those who remember the events of 1918, when Poland regained its independence following 123 years of partitions by Austria, Germany and Russia. Gdańsk becomes a sea of red and white flags, scarves and balloons, as the colourful procession passes through the city’s streets before concluding at
Kraków’s Chistmas Market 1-24 December 2009 The annual Christmas Market traditionally opens at the beginning of December and lasts until the Christmas Eve on the 24th of December. It is at its mostfestive in the week or so before Christmas. Popular features of the market include large wooden barrels of Grzaniec Galicyjski, the rather moreish mulled wine, and stalls selling sausage and fried oscypek, a very tasty cheese which is worth trying. Amongst the wooden stalls you’ll find all kinds of gifts and trinkets, from woollen slippers from the Polish Highlands and amber jewellery from the Baltic. One of the city’s best-loved Christmas traditions is Szopki, or Christmas Cribs. These are not actually cribs, but large iridescent constructions of card and coloured foil. Traditionally, the szopki are placed under the Mickiewicz statue on the morning of the first Thursday of December. For further information on the Christmas market in Kraków, contact the Polish National Tourist Office in London.
The Polish National Tourist Office will of course be present this year, and will be promot-
The World Travel Market is a great opportunity for networking, as regions, tour operators, travel agents and other travel industry professionals gather together at one of Europe’s largest travel industry events. For further information on the World Travel Market, visit www. wtmlondon.com
Photography Courtesy of the World Travel Market
Kraków’s All Souls Jazz Festival gets underway in November. Europe’s oldest celebration of jazz, the annual festival is now in its 53rd year. A hugely successful and entertaining event, the All Souls Jazz Festival is a firm fixture in Poland’s cultural calendar and attracts artists, visitors and curious music lovers from all over the world. As ever, organisers are promising a wide variety of jazz performances that will help warm the city as the winter nights draw in.
the monument of King Jan III Sobieski, where birds and balloons are releases into the sky and the crowd joins together to sing the Polish national anthem. For further information, visit www.gdansk.pl
Contact the Polish National Tourist Office in London Photography by Shutterstock
Jazz arrives in Kraków 5-7 November 2009
Polish National Tourist Office, Westgate House, Westgate London, United Kingdom, W5 1YY Telephone: +44 (0) 8700 675010, london@poland.travel, www.poland.travel Join the Polish National Tourist Office community on Facebook by visiting www.polishWOWfactor.com or follow it on Twitter www.twitter.com.polishWOWfactor
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Winter Sports in Poland Dramatic landscapes coated in a thick layer of snow... the thrill of gathering speed as you ski downhill... refuelling with an indulgent hot chocolate in a cosy cafÊ. This month, Discover Poland explores Poland’s winter sports resorts.
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Winter Sports in Poland
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Photography courtesy of the region of Małopolska
Winter Sports in Poland
Małopolska: The Natural Choice for Winter Sports Known also as ‘Lesser Poland’, Małopolska is a popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts who head to the region’s mountain ranges. The breathtaking scenery of the Tatra, Pieniny and Bieszczady mountain ranges provides the perfect backdrop for a wide range of active pursuits, including skiing and snowboarding. Text by Alison Hope
T
he magnificent Tatra mountains... the gentle rolling peaks of the Bieszczady National Park... the picturesque landscape of the Pieniny National Park with its unique limestone gorge... it is hardly surprising that Małopolska is the most popular choice for visitors wanting to leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind them, and embrace the great outdoors. The opportunities for active pursuits are endless, with caving, climbing, hiking, mountain-biking, and pony trekking available throughout the year. Each of Małopolska’s ski resorts has its own loyal fans, who
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return several times throughout the year, to enjoy the vibrant burst of colour from the thick carpet of purple crocuses that cover the hills during spring, the fresh scent of grass in the sunshine in summer, and the crispness of autumn, as the landscape takes on rich golden brown hues. However it is during the winter months that the region’s ski resorts become truly magical. Zakopane is perhaps Poland’s best-known ski resort. It boasts the same facilities that you would expect to find in any Western European resort, including cuttingedge ski lifts. There are over 50 ski
slopes in Zakopane and the surrounding area, each catering for different abilities – from beginners to thrill-seekers looking for a challenge. At 1, 987m above sea level, Kasprowy Wierch in the western Tatras towers over the valleys of Bystra, Sucha Woda, and Cicha Liptowska. The top of this slope is reached by a modern, comfortable cable car, which was opened last year. The trip takes several minutes – time enough to admire the stunning panoramic views. The slope consists of two separate parts: the lower station in
Kuźnice, the middle station at Myślenickie Turnie, where one can change to go further up to the station at the top of Kasprowy Wierch. Even if you are a beginner, it is worth heading up to the top station, where there is a restaurant serving hearty, warming dishes and an observation deck. Zakopane’s ski slopes offer an abundance of impressive mountain panoramas of the snow-coated Tatra Mountains. Arguably one of the most breath-taking views is seen from Gubalówka, a peak that looms over Zakopane; take the railway up to Gubalówka,
Winter Sports in Poland
1, 987 m
the height above sea level at Kasprowy Wierch, which introduced brand new cable cars last year
walk along the mountain path to Butorowy Wierch, where you can then take a double chair-left back down to Zakopane. It is impossible to describe the experience of taking the chair-lift through the dramatic scenery in complete tranquillity... Experienced skiers should visit Nosal. As well as being a challeng-
ing run, it gives unique insight into Highlander life, with the typical architecture of the region, characterised by steep roofs covered in shingle, sculpted wooden details, and painted glass embellishments. There are also thick-set log cabins and wooden churches, chapels and manor houses, all of which can be seen on a specially
created trail that guides visitors through the delights of the regions villages. It is also popular in the summer months with hikers and ramblers. The three ski resorts of Kotelnica, Bania and Kaniówka form the Białka Tatrzańska complex, which have a total of twenty ski-lifts between them, includ-
ing chair-lifts, button lifts and tow ropes, and can handle a combined capacity of up to 15, 000 skiers per hour. The Białka Tatrzańska complex offers over 15 km of ski runs. The Pieniny National Park is where you will find the popular Czorsztyn ski resort, which is also known as the ‘land
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Winter Sports in Poland
of the sleeping volcano’. Local legend has it that there is a dragon’s nest in the rocky ravine, and anyone ascending the mountain peak by chair-lift can see the mother dragon protecting her eggs. Don’t forget to look out for her! The land of sleepenig volcano extends from the steep mountainside of the Czorsztyn ski centre to the shores of Lake Czorsztyńskie, where the surface reflects the soaring peaks that provide the dramatic backdrop for the castle standing on the opposite side. On one side of the lake are the remains of the Czorsztyn stronghold, and on the other, the wellpreserved castle of Niedzica. For an adrenaline rush, take the chair-lift that winds its way to
Further Information For further information on winter sports in Małopolska, visit www.visit.malopolska.pl
Places to Stay in Zakopane Hotel Skalny is a charming three star chalet-style hotel with impressive views of the Tatra Mountains. Its wooden panelled interiors and large fireplace give the hotel a cosy feel, and the en suite rooms are easily adapted for families with small children. Guests can recover from a day on the slopes in the hotel’s sauna or swimming pool, and there is also a fitness centre and squash court for those who still have energy to burn! For further information, visit www. skalny.com.pl
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the top of the Wdżar Mountain, which stands tall at 766m above sea level. This is where you’ll find a 900m long bobsleigh run, where speeds can reach up to 40km per hour. The Nowy Sącz region abounds with ski centres – the spa town of Krynica, which has a gondola style cable car to the top of the Jaworzyna Peak and other lifts right in the centre of town. There is also the ever-expanding Wierchomla ski center, which offers downhill runs in two valleys in the direction of Muszyna, another spa town in the region. Wierchomla is a perfect example of a ski resort that is open all year round – outside of the ski season, there are plenty of opportunities for mountain-biking moto-
Located just outside of Zakopane, in a quiet village called Murzasichle, Villa Toscana is the perfect place to escape the crowds. Six individually designed guest rooms give more than a nod to Tuscan style, while the restaurant’s Italian inspired dishes are complimented by a good selection of wines. Warm up after a day on the slopes with a leisurely evening spent in front of the hotel’s fireplace. For further information, visit www.villatoscana.pl Sometimes an apartment is much more practical, especially if you are travelling with a family or a group of friends. As its name suggests, Mountain Apartments offers a wide range of properties in popular ski resorts. Many of
Arguably one of the most breathtaking views is seen from Gubalówka, a peak that looms over Zakopane. their beautifully furnished and well-equipped apartments are suitable for up to six people. For further information, visit www.mountainapartments.pl
How to get to Zakopane If you are traveling to Zakopane from the United Kingdom or Ireland, you will most likely land at Balice Airport, near Kraków. Connections between Kraków and Zakopane are generally good, and there are regular buses which take about two hours and cost PLN 10 (approximately £ 2.20). The frequency of the buses make them a better option than the trains, which takethree and a half hours from Kraków and are a little more expensive. Both the bus and train
cross, golf and paint-balling. In nearby Rycerski Raj, there is a ‘high rope park’ which is where visitors can test their stamina by climbing trees, swinging on ropes and making their way along rope bridges. Małopolska’s ski resorts are easy to reach, with many just a short drive from Balice airport near Kraków, which has numerous connections with airports around the United Kingdom and Ireland. When it comes to accommodation, there are plenty of chalets, guest-houses and hotels, with something to suite every taste and budget. Breath-taking scenery... well managed slopes... and of course that all-important Polish hospitality. What are you waiting for?
stations in Zakopane are within walking distance of the town’s main street, ul. Krupówski, where most of the restaurants, shops, hotels and help in English can be found.
Map
KRAKÓW Czorsztyn Zakopane
Winter Sports in Poland
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Podkarpackie’s Winter Sports in Photographs Looking for a winter sports destination that is a little off the beaten track? Escape the crowds, and head to Podkarpackie – a delightful mountain region with its own distinctive landscapes.
Spa in Podkarpackie Many of the picturesque towns and villages in the region are spa resorts, set in tranquil surroundings. Visitors relax, enjoy spa treatments and feel the benefits of fresh air.
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Winter Sports in Poland
Horse-drawn Sleigh Even if you don’t ski, there are still plenty of ways to enjoy the great outdoors. Exploring Podkarpackie by horse-drawn sleigh is a particularly pleasant way to spend a winter’s afternoon.
Husky Sledding Keep an eye out for husky sledding enthusiasts who make the most of the winter weather.
Skiing in Podkarpackie Skiing is a popular pastime during the winter months in Podkarpackie. Ski resorts in the region attract skiers of all ages and abilities.
Podkarpackie Rzeszów
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Is Poland The Best Value Ski Destination in The World Right Now? By Alan Garcia Managing Director of Sunshine World LTD, CSIA/CASI and BASI qualified Ski and Snowboard Teaching Professional.
I
t’s a question everyone will be asking about this winter: “Where can we get the very best value for money for our ski and snowboarding holiday this season?” There are of course many opinions on this subject. You might rightly say that my views are heavily influenced by the fact that I run a skiing holiday company in Poland. My company also offers skiing and snowboarding holidays in Italy, France, Austria, Slovakia, Slovenia, Bosnia and New Zealand though so maybe my enthusiasm about the value of Poland is not so misplaced after all. And I’m half French so if I were biased it
should be in favour of the country of my birth and the largest ski areas in the whole world in the French Alps. The British half of me may possibly have helped balance any patriotic ideas in favour of La France. I have worked continually around the world in the holiday industry for the last nine years in the greatest ski resorts in existence, from Whistler, Canada to the 3 Valleys in the French Alps and Zermatt in Switzerland. There is no doubt that the resorts in these places top anything else which is available at a lower price. Herein lies the key however. Of course if
money were no object we would all be flying firts-class to Vancouver this February for a three-week stay in the Presidential Suite at the Chateau Whistler. Or taking a private helicopter or jet to the famous airstrip in Courchevel 1850 to stay at Roman Abramovich’s latest purchase, the Byblos des Neiges. Dreaming of these extravagances aside however we must come back to the original question- where is it that we can get the very best value? Poland is certainly a place that people will not be surprised to hear has low prices. What people are much more surprised about is the excep-
tional quality of services and life in this cut-price nation. Zakopane is as instantly connected in all Polish minds with skiing as Meribel, Megeve and Les Gets may spring to mind for a French or even British skiier. This beautiful and very large ski town has over 2 million visitors a year. It is a well kept Polish secret however as arguably 90% of the people visiting are from Poland. It may be reminiscent of what many of the Big Name resorts around the world must have been like before people travelled abroad so much maybe 40 years ago. Zakopane is however completely modernised
New Years Eve in Zakopane!!!
Regional inns welcome More details on our site www.restauracjezakopane.pl
Ul. Krupówki 22B Tel. +48(0)18 20 161 40 kontakt@pozboju.pl www.pozboju.pl
ul. Grunwaldzka 25b Tel. +48(0)18 20 66 333 kontakt@karczmakmicic.pl www.karczmakmicic.pl
Ul. Krupówki 43 Tel. +48(0)18 20 156 99 kontakt@karczmazapiecek.pl www.karcmazapiecek.pl
Ul. Krupówki 33 tel/fax +48(0)18 20159 18 kontakt@stekchalupa.pl www.stekchalupa.pl
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Ul. Krupówki 28 Tel. +48(0)18 20 133 91 kontakt@staroizba.pl www.staroizba.pl
Ul. Krupówki 1 Tel/fax +48(0)18 20 17 201 kontakt@gazdowokuznia.pl www.gazdowokuznia.pl
Pictures courtesy of the Sunshine World.
Alan Garcia, Managing Director of Sunshine World (above and right). For further information on winter sports breaks in Poland, visit www.sunshineworld.co.uk
and up to date with the very latest of the brand new all available (and at least half the price of what we’d be paying in any alpine resort!) 4 and 5 star spa hotels, bowling alleys, cinemas, modernised nightclubs, a 2KM pedestrianised high street with brands like Diesel, Rossignol and Oakley sporting their goods, romantic ice rinks and parks, 24 hour very cheap taxis and gastronomic restaurant experiences like the Ziemianska restaurant at the Belvedere four star resort and spa (at prices comparable to Pizza Express back home!) all make Zakopane a true contender for best ski
resort in the world when take the prices into the equation. The best ski areas around Zakopane have the latest Doppelmayr lifts with rolling mats and comfy padded seats and windbreakers. They have the latest snowmaking technology and fantastic traditional mountain restaurants which serve hearty, warming meals of freshly prepared and locally sourced lamb, pork, potatoes, casseroles, speciality cheeses and soups. A true culinary dream with table service for just £10 per person for 3 courses and a drink! Compare that with 32 Euros for a Spag Bol in one of the big self
serve canteens in Val D’Isere last season. Ski or snowboard instruction is only £15 per hour for a private lesson. Lift passes work on a pay as you go system so beginners can easily get away with paying just £5 for a full day on the nursery slopes while experts have the option of skiing from 9am until 10pm if they had legs of steel for just 70zl (about £16 currently) as the strong floodlights at Bialka Tatzanska stay on to that time every day of the season. A full service, all inclusive holiday in a traditional Zakopane catered chalet with my company costs from just £375 per person
Hotel Restaurant Café
for a family of four this season and flights from across the UK and Ireland to Kraków are available for as little as £40 per person return including taxes if you get in early and travel between mid January and mid February. Check out www. sunshineworld.co.uk for details and you will see that while we offer the elite packages in the French alps, my enthusiasm for Poland is purely because I truly believe it to be the best value winter holiday for the 2009- 2010 season period. The shackles of the Nazis and communism long cast aside it’s time to see what today’s Poland is all about. Soon the whole world will see that we have probably been underestimating our Polish friends for a long time. Indeed Polish people themselves have always seemed too modest to me about their own great nation. Let’s not forget that Poland is also outside the Eurozone and the British pound and Irish Euro are even stronger this year than last against the Zloty. The only question is can you afford to splash out on that five star trip to Whistler or not this year?
40 Beskidzka Street 43-370 Szczyrk Tel. 033-827 19 00 www.hotel-alpin.pl
Alpin Hotel is based in Szczyrk, in the heart of Poland’s mountains, which make it the perfect destination for a short break all year round – whether skiing and snowboarding in the winter months, or hiking and mountain biking during the warmer months. Alpin Hotel will accommodate up to 80 guests in clean and comfortable single, double and family rooms, and there is also a restaurant, café, fitness centre, sauna and secure car-parking. For business travelers seeking unique venue for meetings or training seminars, the hotel has well-equipped conference facilities, and a team of experienced event managers are also on hand to help you plan the perfect wedding or special occasion.
We look forward to looking after you!
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Top 10 Sports in Poland Whether you’re an adrenaline junkie who loves extreme sports, or whether you prefer more sedate pursuits, Poland offers a wide range of sports – with something for everyone. Compiled by Anna Podlesna
Golf Postołowo Kayaking Augustów Explore the waterways of Augustów in a canoe or kayak, and discover the unspoilt scenery of Podlasie Province, near the Lithuanian border. Frontier Poland has English speaking guides who escort groups in canoes and kayaks through rivers and marshes that are lines with lush forest. For further information, visit www.frontierpoland.com
Horse Riding Podkarpackie
Football UEFA 2012
Passionate about horses? How about a holiday in the saddle? Horse riding and pony trekking has been popular in Podkarpackie for a number of years – visitors to the region will find a wealth of stables and equestrian centres across the region, especially in the Beskidy Mountains. For further information, visit www.wrota.podkarpackie.pl
The UEFA 2012 football championships will be hosted jointly by Poland and the Ukraine. As Poland counts down to the opening game which will take place in on 9 June 2012, the host cities of Gdańsk, Poznań, Warsaw and Wrocław will experience a transformation in their infrastructure – this will include new hotels, transport connections and stadiums. For further information, visit www.uefa.com
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Golf may not be as popular in Poland as it is in other countries, however it is becoming increasingly popular. Gdańsk Golf & Country Club in the peaceful village of Postołowo is a championship golf course that is ranked by Golf Digest as the best golf course in Poland and 84th on the list of the Top 100 Golf Courses in Continental Europe. For further information, visit www.golf.com.pl
Running Wrocław Fancy a challenge? There is plenty of time to start training for next year’s Wrocław marathon, which takes participants on a 26.2 mile tour of the beautiful Silesian city. For further information, visit www.wroclawmaraton.pl
Top 10 Sports in Poland
Swimming Warsaw Next time you are in Warsaw, make sure that you don’t miss the opportunity to swim in the highest indoor swimming pool in Europe. Located on the 43rd and 44th floors of the capital’s five-star InterContinental Hotel, the pool provides impressive views of Warsaw from a luxurious vantage point. For further information, visit www.warsaw.intercontinental.com
Skiing Tatra Mountains During the winter months, Poland becomes a popular destination for winter sports, including skiing and snow boarding. Zakopane is probably Poland’s best-known ski resort, though there are numerous ski resorts dotted around the Tatra mountains. For further information, visit www.visit.malopolska.pl
Windsurfing Hel Peninsula The Hel Peninsula is a popular destination for windsurfers. Happy Surf is a windsurfing school in Rewa, close the Hel Peninsula. It offers a wide range of courses, including individual lessons, group courses and summer camps. Courses are carefully planned, taking each individual’s ability and confidence into consideration, and always including an element of fun. For further information, visit www.happysurf.pl
Photography Credits
Bowling Warsaw
Cycling Kraków
Ten pin bowling is lots of fun – especially if you have a competitive streak! Round up a group of friends and head to Hula Kula in Warsaw, which is one of the capital’s most popular bowling centres. For further information, visit www.hulakula.com.pl
See Kraków from a different perspective – hop on a bicycle! Cover much more ground than you would on foot, and explore the city beyond the Old Town. Kraków Bike Tours offers group sightseeing in English. For further information, visit www.krakowbiketour.com
1. Urząd Marszałkowski Podkarpackie 2. Shutterstock 3. Shutterstock 4. Shutterstock 5. Shutterstock 6. Małopolska Organizacja Turystyczna 7. Sienna Hotel Sp. z o.o. 8. Shutterstock 9. Shutterstock 10. Shutterstock
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture www.discoverpl.com
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Lying in the south of Poland, Kraków is a world-renowned tourist destination and a real favourite with holidaymakers. The city’s architecture escaped the devastation of World War II meaning no other city in the country can rival it in terms of historical buildings and untouched beauty. It boasts an Old Town recognised by UNESCO, soaring churches, a former archbishop who became Pope, a Royal Castle and medieval Europe’s largest market square. In a nutshell, Kraków is a real gem in the Polish crown. Text by Aiden Brisland
U
ndoubtedly one of Poland’s most popular tourist hot spots, Kraków is a city that positively bristles with history, style and culture. A regular in surveys of favourite city breaks, great value getaways and top ten urban holidays - it does not disappoint. Legend attributes Kraków’s founding to the mythical ruler Krakus, but the city’s name was
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not recorded until 966, before it grew to become a leading trading post by the end of the 10th century. Despite being bruised, battered and almost destroyed by successive Mongol invasions 300 years later, Kraków again came to prominence in 1364, when Casimir III founded the University of Kraków – the second oldest centre of higher learning in
Central Europe. Kraków entered its Golden Age in the 15th and 16th centuries and was the capital of Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, before Sigismund III Vasa moved his government to Poland’s modern-day capital of Warsaw. For many visitors, their first taste of Kraków is the magnificent Rynek, or Market Square. A focal
point for Krakovians and the largest square in of all Europe’s medieval cities, the 13th century Rynek covers a huge 10 acres. It is home to the 16th century renaissance Cloth Hall, the 13th century gothic Town Hall Tower, the magnificent 14th century St Mary’s Basilica with its astonishing great altar and the tiny church of St Adalbert’s that dates back to the 11th century.
Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
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The historic city of Krakow brings visitors from all over the Europe. Numerous direct flights to the nearby Balice Airport, make it the ideal destination for holiday trip or just a weekend getaway. Krakow is a truly magical city, with an abundance of historic buildings lining the narrow streets that lead to the main square. No matter when you come, there is always a great number of art and cultural events and you are always invited to Krakow’s museums and galleries which display a huge variety of art, from works by DaVinci to the Japanese comics. One of many places which can’t be missed is the gothic St. Mary’s Basilica and the majestic Royal Wawel Castle. These places provide breathtaking views to the city and present a gorgeous assortment of architecture dating from around the 14th century. Another place you shouldn’t miss is Kazimierz, the Jewish district of the city is also a great place to indulge in the cultural and historical delightfulness of the city as well as to explore its great selection of vibrant bars and restaurants. After the intense and exiting city tours, just a short walk from the city’s main attractions you will get to your Home and Travel accommodation - large and airy rooms and newly renewed apartments. Home & Travel is a family run business which has been offering high quality of rooms and apartments to business and leisure visitors since 2002 in Krakow and Lodz and become increasingly popular as many visitors prefer flexibility of an apartment. Home & Travel apartments are newly built and offer high hotel standards along with friendly, domestic atmosphere. Whichever you settle for you can expect nothing less than high, modern standards that include fully stocked kitchenette, internet access, LCD TVs, living room and bathroom. Stylish and functional flats range in size from 35 to 65 square meters can accommodate up to 4 people. If you are driving then a nearby, guarded parking can be arranged for you. Furthermore, business visitors can take advantage of the corporate rates and special offers; simple booking systems and settlements. The rooms and suites are perfect to accommodate your guests, clients and staff. In order to make every visit as comfortable and enjoyable as possible Home & Travel team is happy to help their guests organize spare time and discover more of Krakow.
ul.Wrocławska 5a/1, 30-006 Kraków Tel:+48 12 633 80 80, Fax:+48 12 633 80 50 e-mail: kraków@hometravel.pl www.discoverpl.com
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
How to Get There By Air:
There are regular direct flights to John Paul II International Airport in Balice from Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Dublin, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool, Gatwick, Luton, Shannon and Stansted airports. Full details of the airlines flying to Kraków can be found on www.krakowairport.pl The train is the quickest route from the airport into the centre of Kraków, taking just 16 minutes. Balice train station is 200m away from the airport terminal, though there is a regular shuttle bus. There are departures every 30 minutes. A single ticket costs PLN 6 (approx. GB£ 1.30). Alternatively, a taxi from the airport into the centre of Kraków will cost approximately PLN 50 (approx. GB£ 11). Make sure that you take one of the taxis available at the official taxi rank.
By Bus: The main bus station for Kraków is located next to Kraków Central station, just east of the Old Town. The bus is the best way to reach destinations outside of the city, including Częstochowa, Katowice and Zakopane. For a detailed timetable, visit www.rda.krakow.pl
By Train:
Most national and international trains arrive at Kraków Central station. For a detailed timetable, visit www.pkp.com.pl
By Car:
Kraków is more or less a car-free city, and parking can be limited. If you are traveling by car, the most likely route will be the A4 motorway, which connects to the A4 Autobahn in Germany, then travels eastwards, linking Wrocław, Katowice, Kraków, Tarnów, and Rzeszów, heading eastward to the Polish-Ukranian border.
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Amid the history, the Rynek is bordered by dozens of bars, restaurants and cafés where you can relax and watch the world go by. And every hour, on the hour, you’ll also be treated to the sound and spectacle of a lone trumpeter at the top of the taller of St Mary’s two towers, playing the hejnal or heynal. His tune breaks off in midstream to commemorate a famous 13th century trumpeter, who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before a Mongol attack on the city. The noon-time hejnal is heard across Poland and abroad, broadcast live by Polish radio. Unsurprisingly Kraków’s Rynek and its Old Town district were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, one of the first inductees of its kind to the organisation’s prestigious list, and a testament to the city’s beauty and historical worth. Always the centre of Kraków life, the Rynek is a bustling, busy place throughout the year, but the real romance of the square is there
for all to see at Christmas time. A picture postcard festive setting, the square hosts a wonderful Christmas market in December, offering Polish produce from the Małopolska region and from throughout Poland. Top treats are the warm oscypek smoked cheese, tasty bigos, delicious pierogi and of course mulled wine served from large barrels to keep the cold at bay. A stone’s throw from the centre is Kazmirez, a district of Kraków that was home to the city’s Jewish population for more than 500 years and an area that has been re-discovered over the last decade. Following the systematic persecution of the Jews during World War II, the area lost much of its identity, but that hollowed-out culture is gradually being re-introduced. Kazmirez is now very much the hub of Kraków’s artsy scene, popular with students and the more bohemian Krakovians. Famous for its associations with Oskar
Photography Courtesy of the City of Kraków
200 km the total length of passages in the Wieliczka Salt Mines
Schindler, the area’s historic quarter is home to Jewish cemeteries and synagogues but is also home to a number of churches, bars and lively nightspots. As Kraków continues to rediscover its proud Jewish past, its strong Catholic tradition is unmistakable. Not only is the city home to dozens of churches but it also gave Catholics worldwide one of their most influential
leaders when Karol Józef Wojtyła assumed the pontificate as Pope John Paul II in 1978. Born just 50 kilometres from Krakow in Wadowice, Karol Wojtyła became the city’s archbishop in 1963 at the age of 43, before being elected pope just 15 years later. John Paul II’s place in Kraków’s history can be felt across the city as Krakovians celebrate his life through sculptures, memorials and statues dedicated to his memory. The city is also famed for John Paul II’s favourite delicacy, a slice of Kremówki – also affectionately known as Papal cream cakes – which resemble the English custard slice. Kraków definitely has a sweet tooth and cakes, buns and sugary treats abound in the dozens of confectioners and bakeries that dot the city’s districts. And if that isn’t enough, you should visit one of Kraków’s famous hot chocolate houses like Wedel’s on the Rynek, where you can enjoy deliciously thick and creamy www.discoverpl.com
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Tourist Information For further information, visit the City of Kraków website www.krakow.pl alternatively, the Polish National Tourist Office in London has created a special website for English speaking visitors “Why Kraków?” which can be found at www. whykrakow.com
Dental Treatment in Kraków While a trip to the dentists is not on most people’s agenda when they visit a city, it makes sense to pay a visit to a dental clinic while you are in Kraków, as standards tend to be very high, yet the cost of treatment is often a lot less than in the United Kingdom and Ireland. Dental treatment in Poland is definitely worth looking into if you are considering cosmetic dental treatment, or dental implants as you can often save up to 60% compared to treatment at home. A number of private dental clinics in the city - including Vita Medical, Galleria Usmiechu and Steczko Dentistry - offer consultations with English-speaking dental surgeons. Patients are advised to get in contact with clinics before they set off to Poland in order to discuss their treatment.
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hot chocolate made to a traditional Polish recipe – a real winter warmer.
Unmissable Sights
After your fill of cakes, indulgent hot drinks and the fantastic tourist sights that decorate Kraków’s Rynek, a short stroll from the city’s medieval centre will take you to the stunning Wawel Castle, perched on its very own hill above the Vistula River, keeping a silent watch on the city below. During the 11th century reign of Casimir the Restorer, the Wawel Hill and Castle became the leading political and administrative centre for the Polish State, and was the royal seat until King Sigismund III Vasa decided to move his court to Warsaw in 1596. In more modern times the castle has served as a presidential palace and the residence of the Nazi governor general during World War II. A visit to the castle will also take you to within striking distance of Smok Wawelski, the famous, fire-breathing Wawel dragon.
After immersing yourself in the delights that Kraków has to offer, a short train ride will take you to Wieliczka, home of the world-famous salt mines and a must-visit. Described by an eighteenth century French traveller as being on a par with Egypt’s pyramids, the mine has been worked for over 900 years and is a labyrinthine underground city. Two hundred kilometres of passages and over 2,000 caverns make up the mine, with the two-kilometre tourist route starting 64 metres below the streets of Wieliczka. But this isn’t a trip down any old mine. Not only can you taste the salt-rich walls on your visit, but the mine is complete with numerous chapels and statues carved into the salt by artistic miners and home to a magnificent cavern decorated with wonderful carvings, including a rendition of the Last Supper and a statue of the late Pope John Paul II. In fact this underground hall is so vast that it hosts performances, classical concerts and weddings.
A darker aspect of Kraków’s recent past is the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, lying 75 kilometres west of the city. The sight of unspeakable horrors during the Second World War when hundreds of thousands of Jews and other ‘undesirables’ were put to death in gas chambers at Hitler’s orders, it is now a museum remembering all who suffered and lost their lives within its confines. A visit to Kraków would not be complete without making the effort to visit one of the world’s most infamous camps and learning the human stories behind such a shameful episode in Europe’s history.
Culture
Despite its often sobering past, the 21st century Kraków bristles with culture and put simply, it is Poland’s unofficial cultural capital. Home to the country’s first university, a thriving arts scene, dozens of theatres and an eclectic music scene it was named as the European Capital of Culture by the European Union in 2000. Almost
Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Our hotel is a magical place, in which it is the guests who decide how to spend their time. The hotel is situated in a renovated, 19th century tenement in the very centre of the Old Town. Hotel OLD TIME 33 Szlak Street 31-153 Kraków tel. +48 (12) 423 47 90 tel. +48 (12) 423 47 91 fax +48 (12) 423 47 92
Photography Courtesy of the City of Kraków
Reservation: reservation@oldtimehotel.pl www.oldtimehotel.pl
Reach a state of harmony and tranquility as experienced and highly trained staff from Asia carry out relaxing and rejuvenating treatments using natural oils from Indonesia.
The following treatments are available:
Home to the country’s first university, a thriving arts scene, dozens of theatres and an eclectic music scene it was named as the European Capital of Culture by the European Union in 2000. ten years later the city continues to embrace the arts and it is a great destination if you want to see the sights but also take in the local culture.
A former home of the famous Polish film director Roman Polanski, Kraków has built upon its European Capital of Culture status and is awash with events, concerts and productions attracting over seven million visitors a year. The city hosts a number of internationally-renowned annual events for all tastes including the Kraków Film Festival, the Screen Festival, the Festival of Polish Music, the Jewish Culture Festival and the International Summer Organ Festival and welcomes scores of top live bands and stage performers in all seasons. The Rynek makes a magnificent setting for a number of special events throughout the year with the always fantastic New Year’s Eve celebrations top of the list. But if you can’t make Kraków for New Year, the good news is that it has such a depth of things to do, so many places to visit and such a wealth of history to soak up it is a fantastic destination at any time of the year.
Balinese Massage Classic Thai Massage Shiatsu Massage Indian Ayurvedic Massage Balinese Massage with hot rocks Lomi Lomi Four-hand Massage Reflexology - Foot Massage Facial and body treatments Manicure and pedicure Massages are made by qualified therapists from Thailand, Bali and India.
D H A R M ATA Asian Massage and Spa Centre 5 Grabarska Street, 31-131 Kraków Tel. 0048 12 4230058, +48 669689886 email: dharmata@home.pl Open whole week 12pm - 10pm
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
1.
The Sukiennice on the Market Square
Otherwise known as Cloth Hall or Draper’s Hall, the Sukiennice is perhaps the city’s most recognisable sights. Traditionally the meeting place of travelling merchants in the 15th century, today it contains craft stalls selling amber jewellery and wooden carvings.
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Wawel Hill
The gentle climb up the hill is certainly worthwhile – as well as magnificent views across the Vistula River. Once you reach the top, you can visit the Royal Castle, once the royal residences, the chambers of the palace are now a popular visitor attraction – visit stately rooms, view an extensive collection of Oriental art, armouries and military trophies, Flemish tapestries and archaeological remains. Wawel Cathedral can also be found at the top of Wawel Hill – make sure that you visit the crypts of the cathedral, which contain the tombs of some of Poland’s greatest kings. Unless you have very limited time, allow an entire day to visit Wawel Hill. For further information, visit www.wawel.krakow.pl
3. Galicia Jewish Museum
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Also known as the Watch Tower, Wake, Alarm or Bugle Tower, it is the only tower in the world at which a bugle has been played every hour for six hundred years for the entire world to hear. The bugle call breaks off mid-bar – a tribute to the watchman who sounded the alarm to warn of Tatar attacks during the 13th century, but was fatally hit in the throat while playing the bugle to sound the alarm.
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Nowa Huta
Communist history is brought to life by the lively and knowledgeable guys at Crazy Guides, who drive visitors through the streets of Nowa Huta, the communist district of Kraków in Trabants that have been painted in funky colours, taking them on an interactive adventure, stopping off at a communist style café and taking a look at the impressive Nowa Huta Steelworks. For further information, visit www.crazyguides.com
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A celebration of Jewish culture and a commemoration of the victims of the Holocaust, the Galicia Jewish Museum presents Jewish history from a new perspective. There are regular exhibitions and events taking place within the museum. For further information, visit www.galiciajewishmuseum.org
St Mary’s Tower
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Approximately one hour’s drive from Kraków, the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum in Oświęcim, is indeed a very sobering experience, nevertheless it provides unique insight into the atrocities of the terrible genocide that took place in the middle of the last century. For further information, visit www.auschwitz.org.pl
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Less than an hour’s drive from Kraków are Wieliczka Salt Mines, which are visited by approximately 1.2 million people each year, and have been a part of UNESCO’s First World List of Cultural and Natural Heritage for over 30 years. The mine has a depth of 327 meters, and is over 200 km long. Visitors to the mine will see less than 1% of the entire length of the mine’s passages, though they will be treated to sculptures carved in the salt, the first of which were fashioned by miners, though contemporary sculptors have since added their own creations. For further information visit www.kopalnia.pl
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In order to ensure the peace and security of its inhabitants, Kraków was fortified, and surrounded by a moat and a double belt of ramparts, which featured numerous towers and several gates. Built in the 15th century, the Barbican is one of the few remaining fortified gates to the city that can still be visited today. The Barbican is also a great starting point for exploring the Planty, the public gardens that encircle the Old Town.
With 270 shops under one roof, it’s unlikely that you’ll come away empty handed.
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Take time out from sightseeing, and indulge in a spot of pampering at the Mariacki Spa. In the heart of the Old Town, you can enjoy relaxing massages as well as reviving facials and non-invasive cosmetic procedures. For further information, visit www.mariackispa.pl
Schubert Jewellery
While a trip to the dentists is not on most people’s agenda when they visit a city, it makes sense to pay a visit to Steczko Dental Clinic, where standards are high, and the cost of treatment is a lot less than in the United Kingdom and Ireland. For further information, visit www.steczko-dentysta.pl
13. Harris Piano Jazz Bar. For a sophisticated night out, book a table at Harris Piano Jazz Bar and enjoy the atmospheric surroundings of this cellar club, where you can catch internationally renowned jazz performers as well as some home-grown talent. For further information, visit www.harris.krakow.pl
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Amber jewellery is always popular as a gift or souvenir from a trip to Poland. Schubert Jewellery has a stunning selection of amber jewellery, including pieces set with diamonds. The shop even contains a museum that explains how amber evolves, and how it is significant to Poland. For further information, visit www.jubilerschubert.pl
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Galeria Krakówska
In the mood for some retail therapy? Head to Galeria Krakówska, where you’ll both internationally recognised brands as well as some popular Polish ones.
www.poland.travel
Mariacki Spa
The Wieliczka Salt Mines 12. Steczko Dental Clinic
The Barbican
www.krakow.travel
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7. The Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum
C.K. Browar.
Popular with locals and visitors alike, C.K. Browar is a microbrewery with a lively bar and nightclub. Sample the microbrewery’s different varieties of beer, and when you get hungry, you can order Austrian-inspired dishes, including platters of grilled beef, pork and chicken. For further information, visit www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl
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Kraków in Pictures
Cutlure and the Arts Kraków provides the backdrop to numerous festivals and events that celebrate culture and the arts.
Wianki Festival Taking place every June, the annual Wianki festival is an acclamation of midsummer where bonfires are lit along the banks of the Vistula River and magical wreaths are floated downstream. The festival traces its roots to a peaceful pagan ritual where maidens would float wreaths of herbs on the water to predict when they would be married, and to whom. As well as the official floating of wreaths, there are musical performances, dignitaries’ speeches, fairs and fireworks by the river bank opposite the imposing Royal Wawel Castle.
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Bugle Call St Mary’s Tower Listen out for the bugle call from St. Mary’s Tower. The bugle call breaks off mid-bar, a tribute to the watchman who sounded the alarm to warn of Tatar attacks in the 13th century, but was fatally hit in the throat as he played the bugle to sound the alarm.
Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Kraków Old Town
Photography Courtesy of the City of Kraków
Kraków’s Old Town is steeped in history, with many fascinating places to visit, such as Wawel Castle on top of Wawel Hill. Meanwhile the Sukiennice, also known as Cloth Hall or Draper’s Hall, found in the centre of the Market Square, is also a popular attraction for visitors to the city.
Legendary Lajkonik Look out for the Lajkonik, a familiar character in the city of Kraków since the 13th century. The origins of this bearded man on a wooden horse are not clear, however some believe that the legend dates back to pre-Christian times. www.discoverpl.com
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Somewhere to Stay
Photography Courtesy of Hotel Art Niebieski
Whether you are an aficionado of luxury hotels, or prefer to make yourself at home in an historic town-house, there is no shortage of places to stay in Kraków, whatever your budget or taste.
Hotel Art Niebieski and Spa, one of Kraków’s most original boutique hotels.
Stay at one of Kraków’s original boutique hotels. Art Hotel Niebieski will be reopening later this month, with 38 individually designed and furnished rooms, including two deluxe suites. There will also be a panoramic terrace on the 4th floor, offering stunning views of the Vistula River and Wawel Castle, as well as a restaurant serving dishes prepared with organic produce and a spa offering a wide range of relaxing and rejuvenating treatments. For further information, visit www.niebieski.com.pl
Kraków’s Main Square is one of the most iconic sights in the city, though there is only one hotel situated on it. The Wentzl Hotel, which is a beautiful 17th century tenement, has been carefully restored and is now a luxury hotel adjoining the Michelin-recommended Wentzl Restaurant. Each of the 18 rooms have been individually designed to capture the essence of 17th century Kraków
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at the same time as providing facilities that one would expect of a luxury hotel, including air conditioning, mini-bar, telephone, flat screen television, home theatre, tea and coffee-making facilities, in-room safe, complimentary internet connection, bathrobes and cosmetic mirrors. For further information, visit www.wentzl.pl
Perfect for the business traveller, the Radisson SAS Hotel is a modern and spacious five-star hotel on the edge of the Old Town with 196 air-conditioned rooms including business class rooms and suites; each with a stylish interior and many offering magnificent views of the city. Standard rooms are equipped with a hair dryer, mini-bar, television, tea and coffee-making facilities and trouser press. There is also a comfortable desk space and complimentary internet connection. The Radisson SAS Hotel also offers some of the finest conference facilities in Kraków, with eight state-
of-the-art conference rooms on the first floor, all with natural daylight and a maximum capacity of 130 delegates. For further information, visit www.radissonblu.com
Hotel Krakus, in the SouthWestern outskirts of the city, is the perfect choice for anyone visiting Kraków on a budget. This clean and functional three star hotel has 199 en-suite rooms, each equipped with a television, radio and complimentary internet connection. Single rooms start from PLN 180 (approx. GB£ 39), making it outstanding value for money. For further information, visit www.hotel-krakus.com.pl
Immerse yourself in Kraków’s history at Hotel Senacki, another of the city’s delightful hotels. Located opposite the church of St. Peter and St. Paul and close to Wawel Hill, the seat of the old Royal Castle and the Cathedral, this elegant 500 year-old town house is a great choice for anyone who likes their hotel accommodation to have character. The hotel was renovated and restored in 2002, and now has 20 well-appointed rooms, each designed in the Art Deco style. For further information, visit www. hotelsenacki.com
Recently opened, the Conrad Hotel is the latest addition to Kraków’s selection of hotels. A modern three-star hotel, its 98 air-conditioned rooms are comfortable yet affordable, and offer complimentary internet connection, tea and coffee-making facilities, telephone and television. Its location is handy for the Wisła
Stadium, Jagiellonian Library, and Jagiellonian University. For further information, visit www. conradhotel.pl
Located close to the main railway station, the Old Time Hotel is a 19th century townhouse comprising of 24 rooms, each designed with more than a nod to art nouveau – look out for ornate period furniture and artwork. Rooms are also equipped with satellite television, complimentary internet connection, telephone and radio. The central location makes the Old Time Hotel is an excellent base for exploring the city’s many historic sights. For further information, visit www.oldtimehotel.pl
Want to feel more like a local? Why not rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel? Off White Business has eight luxury apartments in the heart of the vibrant
Kazimierz district, each with a striking black and white interior and stylishly modern furniture. Each apartment offers the same facilities that you would expect to find in a luxury hotel, but with the added benefit of extra space – perfect if you are staying in Kraków with a group of friends or on an extended break. For further information, visit www.offwhite.pl
Home & Travel also offers comfortable apartments in a peaceful neighbourhood that is less than a 15 minute walk from the Old Town. For further information, visit www.hometravel.pl
www.discoverpl.com
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Somewhere to Eat
Another of the city’s Michelin-recommended restaurants is Wentzl, which has become something of a Kraków institution. Founded by John Wentzl in 1792, the restaurant has consistently delighted generation after generation of diners with its beautifully presented traditional Polish dishes, such as rabbit stewed in horseradish sauce with lightly apple-scented beetroot and marinated herring rosettes on a bed of crispy onion with apples and sour cream. Dishes are complimented by an extensive range of wines. For
further information, visit www. wentzl.pl
Dinner at the Michelin-recommended Wierzynek Restaurant is more than just a meal – it is an entire experience, and will almost certainly be one of the highlights of your visit to Kraków. Two 17th century townhouses on the edge of the Market Square have been carefully preserved and converted into this luxury restaurant with elegant interiors which provide the perfect backdrop for traditional Polish cuisine which has been
prepared under the supervision of executive chef, Marcin Sołtys. Guests can expect traditional dishes such as veal haunch marinated in white wine, suckling pig marinated and stuffed, and beef roulade served with buckwheat groats and warm beetroot salad, and there is a tasting menu that starts at PLN 185 (approximately GB£ 37.90).The restaurant has attracted many high-profile diners over the years, including King Juan Carlos of Spain, President François Mitterand of France, and the film director, Steven Spielberg. For further information, visit www.wierzynek.com.pl
Kraków couldn’t be any further from the sea, however you can still enjoy fresh fish and seafood at Farina Restaurant, a stylishly renovated tenement in the Old Town. The atmosphere is very chic and lively, however it is the innovative dishes prepared by head chef, Monika Turasiewiecz that attracts diners to Farina Restaurant – in particular, the 12 different mussel dishes. For further information, visit www.farina.krakow.pl
Photography Courtesy of Wierzynek Restaurant
Photography Courtesy of Wentzl Restaurant
Whether you fancy dining out in style, or grabbing a quick bite to eat in laidback surroundings, Kraków’s got it all!
Kuchnia i Wino, or Cuisine and Wine, is the perfect place to soak up the buzzing atmosphere of the Kazimierz. Dishes are largely Mediterranean and Polish inspired, though there is more than a nod to Jewish cuisine. And as the name would suggest, there is an excellent wine list. For further information, visit www.kuchniaiwino.eu
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WITH A STRATEGY DESIGNED TO MAXIMIZE THE VALUE OF OUR CLIENT’S PROPERTY ASSETS Innovative, efficient and professional; our team of qualified property professionals offer a comprehensive management service tailored to suit our clients individual requirements. 42 November 09
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
The Ladies Clinic… not only for ladies! An oasis of calm and tranquility… relax and unwind as qualified beauty therapists take care of you… Ladies Clinic is where you can escape the stresses of the outside world. The Ladies Clinic has 6 comfortable treatment rooms, each equipped with modern and professional medical-grade equipment. An extensive range of treatments ensures that you can leave The Ladies Clinic looking your best:
Italian cusine is always popular, and if you fancy taking a break from traditional Polish cuisine, Aqua e Vino is a great place to enjoy classic Italian dishes expertly prepared using only the freshest ingredients, and complimented by carefully selected Italian wines. The restaurant has an adjoining lounge-bar, which makes it the perfect place to relax and catch up with friends. For further information, visit www. aquaevino.pl
Looking for somewhere that is a bit quirky but won’t blow the budget? U Babci Maliny, which means “Granny Raspberry” is a delightful basement restaurant that is popular with locals and visitors alike, who come to fill up on affordable Polish staples, such as hearty meat dishes and smoked cheese. For further information, visit www. kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl
Specialist Dental Treatment
▪ facial rejuvenation ▪ botox ▪ peeling ▪ dermal fillers and anti-ageing treatments ▪ pigmentation treatments ▪ non-invasive fat removal ▪ thread-vein removal There is also an extensive range of massages and treatments for the face, body, hands and feet.
Gentlemen, as well as ladies are of course welcome at The Ladies Clinic. For further information, visit www.ladiesclinic.pl The Ladies Clinic Cosmetic Medicine and Beauty Therapy Clinic Ul. Sienkiewicza 34, 30-033 Kraków Tel.012 631 91 26, e-mail:recepcja@ladiesclinic.pl
Dental Clinic
A team you can trust! Dental implants Prosthetics – full ceram crowns, bridges and veneers Canal treatment Under microscope if required Restorative dentistry and ozonotherapy Teeth whitening For more information: www.dentaltravel-clinic.com, email: office@dentaltravel-clinic
Kraków, 1c Krakusów St. Tel. +48 12 638 18 40 www.discoverpl.com
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Photography Courtesy of the City of Kraków
Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
Professor Jacek Majchrowski, President of the city of Kraków.
Kraków is One of the Most Attractive Places in the World to Visit Professor Jacek Majchrowski, President of the city of Kraków talks exclusively to Discover Poland. Interview by Alison Hope For somebody who has never visited Kraków before, please describe the essence of the city; for instance what is the most striking feature of the city?
The essence of the city? The atmosphere comes to mind... a stroll along the streets of the city is enough to feel it… amidst the wonderful historic buildings that are all around, among the people, living at their own pace, among the tourists relaxing in the cafés and pubs, or savoring dishes in the restaurants... along streets that are, depending on the time of day, more or less boisterous, but are always alluring. It is the sounds of the city, that for the residents are common44 November 09
place, but that are out of the ordinary for visitors — the bugle-call from St Mary’s church tower, the street performers, the accompanying bands, or the cultural events and festivals that are open to every audience, like the Festival of Street Theatre, The Festival of Operas and Operettas, and ArtBoom. Since joining the European Union in 2004, have businesses in Kraków witnessed an increase in trade with countries such as the United Kingdom and Ireland?
The fact that Poland’s accession to the framework of the European Union unquestionably had an inestimable impact
on the economic development of not only the country as a whole, but also of individual Polish cities. The benefits were felt also in the fifteen nations of so-called ‘old Europe’, including Great Britain and Ireland. By opening their markets to workers and companies, they enriched their economies with new skills and new services. As of May of 2004, young, educated people could get their first opportunity to polish their professional skills without going through a complicated process of getting permission to live and work abroad. That tide did not flow only in one direction, however. British
and Irish companies were interested in the tremendous market that Poland represented by 38 million people. The particular attractiveness of Kraków for investors from the United Kingdom and Ireland is demonstrated by the choice of the city for the offices of such firms as Tesco, which has its billing centre here, and BP. It must also be noted that these two companies have been at the top of the list of the largest companies in Kraków for several years. Tesco, in the number two position, has PLN 700 million (approximately £152 million) in capital investment, with PLN 9.1 billion (approximately £1.9 billion) in sales revenue, while, holding the top spot is BP with PLN 80 million (approximately £17.4 million) in capital investment and about PLN 9.2 billion (approximately £2 million) in sales revenue. As far as capital from Ireland is concerned, there is the airline Ryanair, which year by year increases its share of passenger traffic through Kraków’s airport. It is also worth noting that the most popular destinations are Dublin and London. Kraków lies at the crossroads of transportation routes, and that creates limitless possibilities for cooperation with virtually every country in Europe. Vital to the development of that cooperation are the institutions located in Kraków which support trade relationships. The British-Polish Chamber of Commerce (BPCC) is one such organisation. The activities and public presence of the chamber reflect the joint British-Polish character of the organisation and the vigorous expansion of PolishBritish relations, maintaining the highest standard of international business ethics. The BPCC works to, among other things, represent the member companies through promotional activities, facilitating professional, commercial, and socio-cultural contacts between Poland and Great Britain. It also provides services based in the knowledge and experience of the representatives of member companies and in the close cooperation with government agencies and commercial organisations in Poland and Great Britain. The British Council is also here, which is an institution that represents the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland in the field of cultural and educational collaboration. It helps to create contacts and facil-
Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
itate the exchange of knowledge, experience and ideas between Great Britain and other nations. It is currently active in over 100 countries around the world.
ecological preserve areas, the ‘Nowa Huta Meadows’, and the Zabłocie district, which was the industrial backbone of the city for many years. Zabłocie is particu-
Please tell us about any interesting projects or developments that are taking place in the city, for instance are there any parts of the city that are being regenerated?
Yes. There are dilapidated areas in Kraków which are undergoing revitalisation efforts. Those areas are indicated by the Kraków City Revitalisation Programme, which designates the revitalisation strategy of the city in a citywide, longterm context. In addition to this, there have been three specific development plans developed for areas which require revitalisation on a first-priority basis. These are the Old Town inside the boundaries of the ‘Kraków — Historic Monument City’ area, the area known as ‘old’ Nowa Huta, that being the set of housing estates which were part of the historic urban development along with their
2, 500 the number of companies registered in Kraków with foreign capital
larly interesting in this regard, as the efforts that have been undertaken with the aim of improving transportation access, for example, have attracted significant attention from investors. New office buildings are being built, as well as luxury apartment complexes
and lofts in the old ‘Ziarno’ Mill. Works are also being carried out to create a Museum of Place and a Museum of Contemporary Art in the buildings belonging to the former ‘Emalia’ Enameled Tableware Factory once owned by Oskar Schindler. The revitalisation works have resulted in Zabłocie becoming and increasingly popular neighborhood of Kraków and is gradually beginning to function independently within the city structure. Many people believe that within a few years, Zabłocie will be the most modern and most fashionable neighborhood in historic Kraków — a district to watch for the future. What unique factors make Kraków attractive to investors from the United Kingdom and Ireland?
Because of its geographical location, Kraków has always been a place where trade routes and economic interests came together: East and West, North and South. That is why the historic capital of Poland was located
here, which was known by all of the Europe’s important crowned heads. Kraków has always been a magnet for enterprising people, and indeed it continues to attract talent from all disciplines today. It is open to the world, home to the most modern of businesses, and is developing rapidly. The city, beloved by its residents for the quality of life and its charm, now aspires to become a metropolis of European scope and to do so by making use of its own resources. Our greatest asset is our marvelously well-educated, highly qualified population, whose thorough and specialised education is a guarantee for them. They are especially relevant to companies who decide to invest in Kraków. More and more foreign investment is coming into the city. At the end of 2008, there were 2,500 companies registered in the city with foreign capital. This is happening because, after analysing many potential locations, investors choose the place that provides the greatest po-
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
tential. The presence of companies like Google, IBM and Motorola demonstrates that Kraków is a prestigious address for business. Investment here finds itself in the best of company. Kraków was recognised as the European services capital in the Tholons Global Services ranking. There are 40 companies here providing a broad array of services for businesses, and they provide employment for sixteen thousand young, talented people. It is also worth knowing that Kraków is the second-largest academic centre in Poland, after Warsaw. The city can also pride itself on its young people’s excellent knowledge of foreign languages. While English dominates - two out of three young people with higher education speak it - there are speakers of every modern language available on the market. The skills of the people of Kraków are most appreciated by the prestigious foreign employers who have invested here. Along with investors, we keep the best of the best.
As was published in a report by PriceWaterhouseCoopers, the development potential of the city is a little uneven in character. The main asset of the city is its excellent public image; that of a wonderful city with high standard of living, and extraordinary intellectual and cultural resources. Kraków also has, by Polish standards, a well-developed infrastructure and efficient city institutions. What is the most common reason for visiting Kraków — business or leisure travel?
I think that it would be difficult here to distinguish one main, most common reason. Very often business travellers, enchanted by the city, extend their stays or return for a leisure break. On the other hand, because of the growing investment attractiveness of the city, the broad range of conference possibilities, the development of the airport, the religious tourism sector, and the highly advantageous transit loca-
tion on international and national transportation networks, Kraków is attracting more and more business travellers. We have the most beautiful market square in the world, but not just in the postcard sense. It is a place where locals and visitors can interact with each other – Kraków offers endless opportunities for recreation. Investors can count on highly educated workers, modern office space, and cooperation with Kraków’s educational institutions. There is no need to convince anyone of the benefits of joint initiatives between business and academia. They produce only positive outcomes for enterprises and universities, as well as for the students and graduates. As far as public image itself, Kraków’s situation presents itself superbly. It is the best-known city in Poland, largely thanks to its rich cultural and historical tradition. Confirmation of this was the 2006 BBC’s research on the attractiveness of Poland and Polish cities.
Among the BBC’s viewers Kraków was named the most popular tourist and recreational destination in Poland. Furthermore, as far as business attractiveness, Kraków was only exceeded by the nation’s capital. What attracts visitors to Kraków in the first place?
In first place among the tourist attractions indicated by tourists from Poland and abroad is the Main Square that constitutes a part of both the Old Town and the Royal Road. In second place is the Royal Castle on Wawel Hill with its royal chambers, the cathedral, the bell of Sigismund, and the dragon of Wawel. These are closely followed by the Kazimierz, or the Jewish Quarter with its synagogues, charming cafés and regular concerts, St Mary’s Basilica, the Sanctuary of the Divine Mercy in Łagiewniki, Nowa Huta, the Barbican and St. Florian’s Gate, the Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec, and Galeria Krakówska.
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LALALA: bistro-bar-guest house-wine hous In short - a hybrid, a place for mavericks who look for a charming, airy space, infiltrating calmly into their bloodstreams, pulsing delicately. Before your eyes there appears a tenement with a wooden patio, a little idyllic garden and a hammock, slightly out of the way, where time flows in another rhythm. An original reshuffle of styles and forms, of wine, wine and wine; genuinely smiling and imaginative service, informal vibe and a unique, not only as for Tricity, arthotel with rooms created by artists…
Price Includes: • 2 nights in a twin room standard (en- suite bathroom, WI-FI, TV, telephone, radio), extra charge for a single room - 50PLN • 2 buffet breakfasts • 1 lunch in a chosen restaurant in a historical centre of Cracow • 1 coupon to a trendy café in a city centre for a dessert and coffee • free hotel parking space, VAT
Hotel Krakus 35 Nowohucka Street Reception: Tel. +4812 652-02-02, +4812 652-02-23. Fax:+4812 656-54-78 recepcja@hotel-krakus.com.pl
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Kraków - Poland’s Capital of Culture
I strongly reccomend the National Museum, where you can find the famed work of Leonardo Da Vinci is found, the Lady with an Ermine in one of its wings. For those who prefer more active pursuits, Kraków offers endless possibilities, including cruises on the river Vistula, strolls along the Błonie commons or climbing one of the city’s barrows. With so many cultural and historical sights to visit in the city, what advice would you give a first-time visitor?
For the most part, the attractions that I have just mentioned cover the cultural and historic sights that a tourist visiting the city for the first time should see. Of course, everything depends on the amount of time the visitor has for his or her holiday and what kind of pace they want to explore the city. First of all, one should not miss the Main Square, though it would be impossible to miss it! This is the largest market square in Europe, with the Sukiennice or market hall at its cen-
tre and historic stone buildings and rows of enchanting cafés, where one can relax and observe ‘Krakovian life’, surround it. Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter, and Nowa Huta, a treasure trove of socio-realist history, are also very important points on the list of places to see, bringing visitors in close contact with or bringing to life certain historical events and certain stages in the history of Poland in the political and cultural context. With regard to culture, I recommend a visit during the two extraordinary festivals which have become well-known internationally; the first is Sacrum Profanum — an event centred around twentieth and twenty first century music, connected with and steeped in motifs of the sacred and the profane, There is also a geographical criterion: the music in a given year is based on a particular geographical region. The second is Misteria Paschalia — music connected to Holy Week and Easter performed in masterful interpretations by the
foremost performers of historical music. Equally interesting are the massive events that are intended for every listener and make a multitude of impressions, which are equally visual and auditory and allow direct participation, Wianki, the Midsummer’s Eve Festival,
Kraków lies at the crossroads of transportation routes, and that creates limitless possibilities for cooperation with virtually every country in Europe.
and New Year’s Eve on the Main Square. And finally... there’s the Jewish Culture Festival which takes place among the synagogues and charming stone buildings of the Jewish quarter, an extraordinary artistic experience guaranteed by fabulous performers from all over the world. Kraków regularly tops polls and surveys as one of the most attractive cities to visit in Europe — if not in the world. Why do you believe that is?
Firstly because it has so many cultural and historic aspects, which can be seen in its historic buildings, places, and the events that take place here. It is also its authenticity; in its historical images, which distinctly reflect particular periods, bringing us closer to them. The authenticity of the places and buildings. The city’s connection to history, and its ongoing development make Kraków one of the most attractive places in the world to visit.
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Lower Silesia’s Hidden Gems
John and Barbara Alaszewski, originally from London relocated to Poland, where they renovated and now run the Blue Beetroot, a boutique hotel in Bolesławiec. They tell Discover Poland why Lower Silesia is worth discovering. Text by John Alaszewski
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hen we first opened the Blue Beetroot Hotel in Bolesławiec, one of our aims was to attract British visitors to this beautiful part of the world, however this has been a bit of an uphill struggle as Lower Silesia is largely unknown as a holiday destination in the United Kingdom. If you ask most British people what they know about Poland they will probably mention Kraków and Auschwitz and then struggle to think of anything else. I think this is largely due to a lack of promotion. I’m not saying that there isn’t any promotion but not nearly enough to be effective and what there is mainly directed at neighbouring countries such as Germany. This is particularly true of Lower Silesia. I think another problem is that Polish people themselves do not
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see Poland as a holiday destination worth promoting, although the country is very welcoming to the visitors who do come here, there is a bit of an inferiority complex due to Poland having been behind the socalled iron curtain for so long when everything became a bit run-down and they only see the faults and not the charm of the place – the question we always get asked having moved here from England is “What made you choose Poland?” Fortunately for us there is one thing that Bolesławiec is known for, which is the stoneware pottery that has been made here since the 12th century. It is very popular in America and we receive a lot of American ladies that are based in Europe, who come here specifically to buy the pottery. Once they are
here they are amazed at all the other attractions that the area has to offer and will often come back for a longer holiday with their families as Bolesławiec is an ideal base from which to explore the area. So what is there to do and see? Well there are medieval castles, old towns each with their own distinctive character and architecture, lakes and rivers, woods and vast expanses of open countryside with an abundance of wildlife such as deer, wild boar and a wide variety of birdlife - for instance in the spring and summer you can see storks catching frogs in the fields and nesting on the top of tall chimneys and telegraph poles. And, as we approach that time of year, what about in the winter months? Well not far from us are
the Sudeten Mountains with two ski resorts, Szklarska Poręba and Karpacz with a wide variety of downhill slopes ideal for beginners and intermediate skiers, there is also an excellent cross skiing course at Szklarska Poręba which runs through some absolutely stunning scenery. The price of ski equipment hire and lift passes are far lower than in the better known European resorts making it a very attractive proposition particularly for people who haven’t skied before and want to give it a go. The towns in Lower Silesia become transformed when the snow arrives and look like scenes from old fashioned Christmas cards. Bolesławiec has a very picturesque town square and this year there is a Christmas market there from 11-
Photography Courtesy of the Blue Beetroot
Lower Silesia’s Hidden Gems
13 December 2009, where you can pick up lots of traditional handmade craft ware and food as well as the local pottery. Other annual wintertime events include the annual Christmas Fair in Wrocław, which is the perfect opportunity to buy Christmas ornaments, pictures and traditional Polish Christmas cards. This takes place at the beginning of December. The dog-sleging race at Jakuszyce, near Szklarska Poręba is another popular annual event which takes place at the end of January and beginning of February. Then there is the horn-sleigh race that takes place at Kowary, near Jelenia Góra in early March. This type of sleigh takes its name from the runners, which are bent upwards, in a shape similar to horns. These
were traditionally used by shepherds in the mountains, who used them to carry hay and transport building materials. Also in March is the ‘retro’ cross-country ski race in which everyone competes wearing old-fashioned wooden skis and dresses up period costume – it’s always a fun event, and popular with visitors and locals alike. Acitivities at other times of year include fishing in the lakes and rivers, cycling and mountain biking, and horse riding – in fact here at the Blue Beetroot, we have recently created our own stables, and will soon be able to offer carriage rides as well as horse, pony and donkey trekking for children. Picking wild mushrooms from the woods, panning for gold and searching for rare rocks and ag-
ates are also ways to spend time in Lower Silesia. Coming from London, one of the things that we appreciate is how accessible the countryside here can be here. If we go for a drive on a Sunday, there is usually very little traffic – just like England in the 1950s! It is true that some of the infrastructure does need to be improved in order to attract more tourists, there does need to be better signs and information in English for example. We do as much as we can to help our guests get as much as possible from their ‘Lower Silesian experience’ such as providing maps, information and a guide if they would like us to, and I think that everyone who has stayed here has thoroughly enjoyed it.
The Blue Beetroot To find out more about the Blue Beetroot, or to make a reservation, visit www.bluebeetroot. com or telephone +48 (0) 75 736 4420
Map
Bolesławiec
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Photography courtesy of Kuiavia-Pomerania.
Discovering Kuiavia-Pomerania Delicious ginger cakes… Gothic architecture… the canals of Bydgoszcz… Kuiavia-Pomerania has many attractive characteristics. Located between Gdańsk and Warsaw, the region is surprisingly easy to reach from the United Kingdom and Ireland, and offers so much to its visitors. Text by Alicja Kosicka
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oruń is a great place to start your tour of Kuiavia-Pomerania. Arguably one of Poland’s most beautiful cities on account of its atmospheric narrow alleyways and charming Old Town Square, it was founded by Teutonic knights in the 13th century. The ruins of the Teutonic Knights’ Castle can still be seen today, and are in fact one of Toruń’s most popular visitor attractions, with guided tours led by knights in shining armour who invite visitors to try their hand at archery or sample the famous ‘wine of champions’ in the castle’s cellars. You would be mistaken for thinking that the Teutonic Knights’ Castle was the only historic sight worth visiting in Toruń; its Old Town was one of very few Polish cities to escape the devastation of World War II, which means that its Gothic architecture has remained largely wellpreserved. The Old Town Hall, which was initially built in the 13th century, but later extended in the 17th century is considered to be one of the most monumental in Europe, and there is an abundance of ornate churches and monuments, including the ‘Tuba Dei’ or ‘God’s Trumpet’, Central Europe’s largest Gothic bell. It therefore comes as no great surprise that Toruń is one of UNESCO’s listed world heritage sites. In the same way that Malaga’s best-known son is Pablo Picasso, and the Danish town of Odense is forever associated with Hans-
Christian Andersen, Toruń too has its most celebrated figure - Nicolaus Copernicus, the astronomer and mathematician who proposed that the sun was stationary in the centre of the universe and that the earth revolved around it. A tall sculpture in the heart of the Old Town, the city’s planetarium and the ‘Nicolaus Copernicus University’ all pay homage to Copernicus, who was born in 1473. The city’s academic tradition is continued today, as Toruń is internationally recognised as a centre of academic excellence. A city that is steeped in history, Toruń is nevertheless a modern and vibrant city with numerous cafés, bars and restaurants, each offering a variety of different types of cuisine – what they all have in common is the fact that they are all served up with unmistakable Polish hospitality. After dark, the Old Town becomes particularly attractive as the subtly illuminated buildings become reflected in the waters of the Vistula River. As Toruń positions itself as a candidate for the title of European Capital of Culture in 2016, the city can look forward to a rich calendar of cultural and sporting events which will attract both locals and visitors alike. While you are in the region, another delightful city that is worth visiting is Bydgoszcz, with its waterside tenements and expansive network of canals. Water features largely in this city, as one of its most popular attractions is ‘Wyspa Młyńska’ otherwise known as ‘Mill Island’, which is just a short walk from the Old Town. It is here where visitors will find riverside houses and warehouses dating back to the 18th and 19th century,
all built in a distinctive red brick and connected by foot-bridges. A beautiful place for a stroll at this time of year, although some of the most inspiring views of the city are seen from a water-taxi. Just like Toruń, Bydgoszcz is also a thriving university city with no shortage of places to spend your free time; from shopping malls and well-equipped sports and recreation centres to cultural hot-spots including the Nova Opera and the Pomeranian Philharmonic, both of which attract a host of international performers. It also has numerous cafés, bars and restaurants -plenty to take your pick from. Kuiavia-Pomerania is a great destination for a twin-centre break, as Toruń and Bydgoszcz are two truly fascinating cities, however you should not limit yourself to the cities – be inspired! There are plenty of smaller towns and villages to explore, Kuiavia-Pomerania’s hidden gems.
Further Information For further information, visit www.visitkujawsko-pomorskie.pl
Map
Bydgoszcz Toruń
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Phgotography Courtesy of the Face and Body Institute, Krak贸w
Looking Good in Kraków
Looking Good in Kraków The Face & Body Institute is an aesthetic institute in the heart of Kraków that was co-founded by the British dermatologist, Dr Elisabeth Dancey who established the renowned Bijoux Clinic in London. Dr Dancey explains why she chose to establish a clinic in Poland. Text by Dr Elisabeth Dancey.
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he Face and Body Institute in Kraków was not set up by a British dermatologist; it as created by a young Polish lady with the help of a British dermatologist. I would never have done it alone. Paulina Pyka is a very mature young lady with a go-ahead attitude. It was entirely her idea to create the clinic and provide something very new to the Polish market – a cosmetic clinic based on my experience as dermatologist who specialises in cosmetic medicine. Paulina worked as a receptionist and later clinic manager at my clinic in London,
where she was impressed by the loyalty of the clients, as well as their desire to maintain their looks and the faith that they invested in my team of specialists. Every client was delighted with the treatment that they received at the clinic in London, and would always book their next appointment before leaving. Paulina could see that this was a clinic with a future. Technology was adding new procedures virtually every month, and this brought its own excitement and stimulus to follow development, select good procedures and be able to reject
those that were substandard. This suited Paulina’s youthful outlook and desire to be at the forefront of a new market; indeed to create a new market in the heart of her beloved Poland. Paulina, unlike many Polish, wanted to return to Poland and take something back. Thus began the Face and Body Institute. Finding a suitable location was easy; Kraków has many beautiful buildings. Paulina’s mother, Alicja, did a lot of the leg work for us and her knowledge of the Polish property market - not to mention her shrewd negotiating skills – allowed us
About the Author Dr Elisabeth Dancey is one of the original practitioners of cosmetic medicine, having trained and practised in Belgium and the United Kingdom. She has been at the forefront of aesthetic medicine, and has worked on several commercial projects associated with her early work on cellulite. She oversaw the consumer trial of Roc’s anti-cellulite cream and later assisted Vibrant Medical with their pilot study and launch of the Vibrotone cellulite reduction system. She is the author of
to find a beautiful location in Pilsudskiego, close to the city’s charming Old Town. The main challenge was to find suitable medical staff. Cosmetic medicine is very different from classical medicine, and we insisted on a completely new style of doctoring for our clinic. What is the difference? Cosmetic ‘patients’ are clients who have a choice. They do not need to have treatment, they choose to. This is an essential difference and one that drives the business. The relationship between doctor and client is very different too; it is very open. Doctor
Map ‘The Cellulite Solution’ and later produced the video, ‘Beautiful Legs’. Dr Dancey has also featured in the original television series ‘Ten Years Younger’ and regularly appears in the media.
Further Information Face and Body Institute Piłsudskiego 36/1, 31-111 Kraków Tel: +44 (0) 12 430-18-81 www.faceandbodyinstitute.pl
KRAKÓW
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Looking Good in Kraków
and client are equal, and there is an exchange of information between them. In many cases the client has done their research on the internet, and understands the science behind the procedure. It is the task of the doctor to ensure that the demands of the client match the expectations of the result. Furthermore, we needed to find a doctor that enjoyed treating people who were in good health, but who wanted to improve their appearance and well-being as well as their health. We needed our doctors
hind France. New ideas about the role of medicine had yet to reach Poland – something that we were discovering this fast. We also insisted in considering highly skilled individuals who were not necessarily academic. Exam results do not necessarily translate into a warm, caring personality with good interpersonal skills and high manual dexterity. These doctors tend to undervalue themselves and not present themselves for interview. How do you find a shy doctor whose skills do not show in an exam?
All of the staff are continually improving their skills, attending training sessions in both Kraków and London – wherever the best tuition is available.
to treat our clients seriously; to many Polish doctors, this was quite an unusual concept, and many of our interviewees failed at this point, though not as a fault of the Polish medical establishment. In terms of cosmetic medicine, the United Kingdom is ten years ahead of Poland, yet ten years be-
Recruiting suitable staff was our first challenge. The next challenge was to bring them to England and instil our mind-set into them. Again a difficult task, but nevertheless essential. We lost some staff at this stage. Attracting clients has never been a challenge – everybody wants to look great for their age,
and Polish people are no different to anybody else. Of course there are financial considerations, but we have procedures to suit just about every budget, so we have been able to cater for all. Paulina insisted on offering discounts and reward schemes to suit the Polish people. This is certainly not the British way, but it works well in Kraków. We have created a significant challenge for ourselves: not to be ahead with technology, because we are, but to conquer minds and ideas with our new technology. One of the problems that we face when introducing new treatments and procedures is making the market aware of the options that are available. Things that are commonplace in London take a lot of explaining in Kraków. One of our great successes has been the introduction of Mole Mate into the clinic. Mole Mate is a computerised dermatoscopy device that allows us to look at skin lesions in 3D, enabling us to make a diagnosis before cutting the mole out. In most cases, there is no need for a biopsy, in fact since we introduced Mole Mate to the clinic, we have saved hundreds of people from undergoing biopsy, and continue to provide immense peace of mind when it comes to moles, lumps and bumps. It has taken two years for the clinic to reach maturity. We can proudly say that we have a team of lovely, caring doctors who perform magic with their hands. They learn quickly and even try out new procedures on themselves so that they can then explain how things feel and how
long they take to work. This is true empathy. The Face and Body Institute offers effective treatments that combat the signs of ageing and enable clients to look and feel their best, including dermal fillers, skin rejuvenation, mesotherapy, lipotherapy, and peels. Minor surgery for the removal of moles and skin tags is also available, and we have also introduced other treatments, including massage for stress relief and to ease muscular pain, therapies to aid weight-loss, podiatry and advanced cosmetology. All of the staff are continually improving their skills, attending training sessions in both Kraków and London – wherever the best tuition is available. Through my clinic in London, we are able to access the best medicine from the across Europe, and indeed the world. Paulina remains firmly in charge of the Face and Body Institute, even though we have proudly added another member to our management team; Cosmetologist Agnieszka Gomolinska, who has recently been appointed onto our board of directors. She has already made a positive contribution to the clinic in the twelve months that she has been working with us. When we set up Face and Body Institute, we decided to use my experience as the solid base on which to build the business. From that base we planned to add Paulina’s youth and enthusiasm to drive the business forwards. Now, with Agnieszka on board, we have achieved more than we expected, and expect to achieve more. Watch this space!
We have a pleasure to invite you to enjoy the Patio Apartments in the heart of the Old Town of
more than a hotel
Gdansk. If you are looking for an apartment to take on hire for a short time or a long time we encourage you to make yourself acquainted with our offer. It is designed both for private persons, tourists and companies.
Contact: ul. Sw. Ducha 91/95/2 80-834 Gdansk Poland, tel/fax 0048 58 305 44 31, mobile +48 691 982 200, patio@parismusic.com.pl, www.patio.gda.pl 54
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’Tis the Season to Go Shopping
Pictures courtesy of Złote Tarasy.
November in Poland, like everywhere in Europe, is a time of excitement and preparation as cities kick off the pre-holiday season with a cacophony of symbolic decorations, religious pageantry and festive outdoor gatherings. It also is a time to dive head-on into the gift-buying mode and scope out ideas for those special someones on your Christmas list. Whether you’re shopping for a wine lover or a has-everything-already chic colleague, this guide to Poland’s trendiest boutiques, quirky shops and design emporiums will make the job easier. Text by Anna J. Kutor
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and accessories inspired by the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s. Colourful prints and thickset materials such as leather, plastic and wood dominate the wild array of chairs, tables, lamps and clocks (amongst others) at this bohemian den. If you get dizzy from all the wild designs, take a seat at the bar and refuel with a cup of coffee and a home-made vegetarian sandwich. While relaxing, take advantage of the free Wi-Fi and check out the offerings of Crème de la Crème, an online style hub with a pick-up point near the city centre, carrying a sizable selection of domestic and international chic and environmentally-friendly furnishings, accessories and knick-knacks, ranging from billboard-made bags from Ho.Lo to Kama Sutra cosmetics. The Kazimierz, the former Jewish quarter of the city, also has a handful of nifty shops worth seeking out. Akcent Gallery, just off the spry Nowy Square, is a new nest of contemporary fashion featuring amber-heavy jewellery collections, clothes and accessories designed by up-and-coming Polish talents. High-quality jewellery of sassier stripe can be found at Błażko Jewellery, a store chock-full of glittery rings, bracelets and earrings all united by the award-winning designer, Grzegorz Błażko’s signature style which he calls ‘black and white chessboard with a rusty dot in the middle of every square’.
Capital Cool
Whether you are on a whistlestop weekend tour of Warsaw or a lengthier sojourn in the ever-
Not to be outdone, Gdańsk also takes on a holiday look with large ornamented trees, twinkling lights and marvelous window displays. expanding capital, you will find plenty of places of commercial interest. The inner-city shopping malls, including Złote Tarasy, Arkadia, Galeria Mokotów are gift-dense marketplaces filled with everything from tech toys for the
gadget lover to high-end fashion labels. Built right behind the central railway station is the latest state-of-the-art shopping arcade, Złote Tarasy (which means Golden Terraces). Under a glass dome - one that looks like giant waves on the surface of the ocean - this sprawling new conglomerate gives home to 200 some-odd stores on five levels. It is the ultimate ladieswho-lunch shopping destination: hip fashion outlets such as Zara, Mexx, and Hugo Boss as well as family-oriented shops like Petit Patapon, Smyk, Games World and Forget-Me-Not Gifts. The facility also features a number of débuts to Poland, including the Stradivarious clothing chain, French fashion emporium Naf Naf, The Body Shop, van Graf and the American rock-themed restaurant, Hard Rock Cafe. Warsaw has enjoyed a strong design-centred awakening in recent years as upscale inter-
Pictures courtesy of the Arkadia Mall
owhere is the sparkle and spirit of the holiday season more visible than in Kraków, Poland’s cultural capital. Many of the visitors who travel to this southern metropolis around Christmas time come to enjoy the fairy-light lit stalls in the main market square, the hearty food and the inspiring artsy vibe that reverberates across harmonious rows of classical, gothic and baroque façades. Those who choose to explore the city’s retail offerings - and get a head start on ticking off the mustget gift list - discover a diverse mix of antique, modern, budget, lavish and everything in between. Contrary to what some might think, Kraków’s historic centre isn’t loaded with glitzy souvenir outlets on every street corner, but there are just enough shops to supply one’s wants. Among them is Este Curiosities Gallery (Galeria Osobliwości Este), a pavementlevel shop inside a fancy townhouse that deals in a cavalcade of curios, from antique furniture to fossils, Polish figurative art to fine jewellery. Beyond all the wondrous objects, this petite place launched in 1994 by the art-loving couple Katarzyna and Zbylut Grzywczów, also plays host to thematic and individual exhibitions of local contemporary artists, including the graphic works of Adam Hoffmann, Tadeusz Jackowski and Jerzy Skarzynski. Want to add some glitz to your home but not break your budget? Go to Miejsce, a zany interior design store specialising in furniture
Photography by Anna J. Kutor
’Tis the Season to Go Shopping
Warsaw’s Arkadia shopping centre looking festive. www.discoverpl.com
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Photography courtesy of Stary Browa
’Tis the Season to Go Shopping
Poznań‘s Stary Browar, where art and retail meet under one roof.
national and homebred interior and homeware designers and style setters are rushing to meet the rising demand of homeowners across burgeoning ‘New Europe’ markets. A shining example of this trend is Magazyn Praga, an industrial-style design store set up by art historian Łukasz Drgas in a corner pocket of the red-brick Koneser Vodka Factory. At the heart of Warsaw’s hipster hotbed, this jack-in-the-box boutique continually springs up avant-garde creations by bright young design talents from Czech Qubus studio, British Black+Blum and the
French Lexon and Atypyk brands, to name but a few. One of the latest go-to places for furnishing that achieve the ideal synthesis of aesthetics, functionality and creative edginess is Indivi. Part design boutique, part art gallery, this streamline split-level space adjacent the leafy RydzaŚmigłego Park was opened a few months back by a group of Polish art-lovers. They carry furniture, contemporary lighting solutions and home design apparel by bigname brands such as Naughtone, Established & Sons, Zero, Vitra and Artemide, alongside works by
HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFA
Hotel of Prince Joseph is a magic place featuring grandeur interior design. The mixture of handmade sculptures and luxury will surprise all visitors and provide to unrepeatable climate for rest and fun. The décor of the restaurant gives unique atmosphere for social and business meeting. The special dish of our cuisine is Masurian dainty according on 200 years old recipe.
Poznań, Ostrowska Street 319/393 58 November 09
many up and coming domestic designers. Spacestation is another popular gallery-like design store where funky forms, innovation and eccentric creativity hang out on a daily basis. Tucked away in the capacious rooms of an old armoury in Warsaw’s Żoliborz neighbourhood, this high-spirited showroom is a one-stop spot as far as fashionforward European interior design goes. The owner’s trend-sniffing nose is visible in each hand-picked item, from the transparent bubble chairs by Eero Aarnio to the green tree-shaped tables by Eero Koivis-
to and bright-hued lounge chairs incorporating geometric and organic themes fabricated by Danish designer Leif Jørgensen. Still stumped by what to get for that unconventional fashionista in your family? Pay a visit to the showroom of Green Establishment, a gallery-meets-boutique space in Praga, Warsaw’s evolving artist district that boasts authentic-looking apparel designed by Kamila Kancelrz and Kinga Kowalska, a budding designer duo. One-of-kind items of a more retro ilk can be found at Mufka, a splitlevel space closer to the centre that was set up by two young mothers in 2006. On the bottom floor, clothes hounds can buy statementmaking handbags, worn-once stilettos, hit-or-miss vintage clothes and eccentric necklaces, while the
Reservations on-line: www.hotelkj.pl
Phone: 0048 (061) 872-63-19
’Tis the Season to Go Shopping
minute mezzanine packs whimsical storybooks, furniture and fun games for the wee ones.
Treasures All Around
Not to be out-done, Gdańsk and the Tri-City area also takes on a holiday look with large ornamented trees, twinkling lights and marvelous window displays. For versatile lighting fixtures that add pizzazz to the dining room visit Koma, an interior design store with several outlets in the area. The sizable home-goods store Strzecha in Gdynia presents a larger variety of stocking-stuffers for kooky aunts and brother-in-laws that live on a different continent, including hand-made boxes, kitchen utensils, and picture frames. If there is an environmentalists or health-nut on your list, opt for Tajemniczy Ogród, a green-minded gallery-cum-boutique focused on beauty products, books and various massages. While Poznań does not appear to offer much in terms of
Shop Till You Drop
yuletide decorations and festive programmes, it more than makes up for in retail prowess, boasting some of the largest shopping malls in the country. A prime example of commercial success and urban renewal is Stary Browar (Old Brewery), a massive arcade occupying a formerly derelict 19th century brewery. Since 2003, the complex has given home to dozens of stores, from street fashion labels like Alta Moda, Cropp Town and Diesel to interior design outlets such as Almi Decor, Duka and Details Home. A 2009 addition to the roster of new-age shopping arcades is Galeria Malta, a 54,000 square meter megastore near Malta Lake - hence the name- which is situated in an outlying part of Poznań. A glass and steel structure with a squeaky-clean aesthetic, this sleek new shopping facility boasts over 170 commercial and entertainment venues: big-name brands such as Nike, Big Star, Zara and United Colors of Benetton.
Este Curiosities Gallery ul. Sławkowska 16, Kraków +48 12 429 1984 Miejsce ul. Zegadłowicza 2, Kraków +48 691 361 121 www.miejsce.sklep.pl Creme de la Creme ul. Mostowa 14, Kraków +48 12 430 0519 www.lifestory.pl Akcent Gallery ul. Olszanicka 12, Kraków +48 12 623 8151 www.akcent-galeria.com Blazko Jewellery ul. Józefa 11, Kraków +48 12 430 6731 www.blazko.pl Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, Warsaw +48 22 222 2200 www.zlotetarasy.pl
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Photography courtesy of Stary Browa
Magazyn Praga ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, Warsaw +48 22 670 1185 www.magazynpraga.pl Indivi Design Store ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, Warsaw +48 22 42 4096 www.indivi.pl
Spacestation ul. Filtrowa 68/49, Warsaw +48 604 456 104 www.spacestation.pl Green Establishment ul. Wilenska 13, Warsaw +48 22 670 2076 www.greenestablishment.pl Koma ul. Piastowska 13, Gdańsk +48 58 520 9890 www.koma.lux.pl Tajemniczy Ogród ul. Świętojańska 100, Gdynia +48 58 733 0811 www.tajemniczyogrod.net.pl Stary Browar ul. Półwiejska 42, Poznań +48 61 859 6050 www.starybrowar5050.com Galeria Malta ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka 8, Poznań +48 61 658 1022 www.galeriamalta.pl
Map
Strzecha ul. Świętojańska 18, Gdynia 58 661 84 79 Mufka ul. Solec 101, Warsaw www.mufka.blox.pl
Gdańsk Warsaw Poznań KRAKÓW
Chełmno - the City of Lovers® www.chelmno.pl
www.discoverpl.com
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Txns To xg
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Cuisine: Gourmet Warsaw There is no shortage of great places to eat in Warsaw. Don’t worry if you are unable to make it to the capital city this month, as Discover Poland brings you recipes from some of Poland’s finest chefs. This month, Sebastian Hołda, Executive Chef at the Polonia Palace Hotel in Warsaw shares his recipe for pierogi, a traditional Polish favourite.
Pierogi Serves 4 Ingredients: Filling - 6-8 large potatoes - 16 oz. cottage cheese - 1/2 onion, finely chopped - 1 egg, beaten Dough 2 cups plain flour 1/2 tsp. salt 2 eggs, beaten 1/2 cup of water
Filling 1. Boil and mash the potatoes and stir in the cottage cheese and finely chopped onion. 2. Stir in the beaten egg until the mixture is thick and sticky. The mixture can be added by adding more mashed potato and using less cottage cheese. Dough 3. Sift the flour into a bowl and add the salt. 4. Create a well in the flour and add the beaten eggs and water. Mix well and knead until smooth, then leave for 10 minutes.
5. Divide the dough in half and roll each half until it is 1/8” thick on a lightly floured surface. 6. C ut the dough into 3” squares or circles. 7. Place a spoonful of the filling to one side of the centre and fold the dough over, sealing the edges. Use fingers to crimp the edges for a better seal. 8. D rop each pierogi into salted boiling water and boil until they float to the top. 9. S erve with sour cream and butter, and season with salt and pepper.
Sebastian Hołda Executive Chef at the Polonia Palace Hotel in Warsaw
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Top 10 Festivals and Events Poland really is abuzz with festivals and events, concerts and gigs… so many things to see and do, but so little time… Discover Poland has rounded up ten unmissable events taking place across the country over the next couple of weeks. Compiled by Agata Zborowska
The International Film Festival of the Art of Cinematography Plus Camerimage 28 November – 5 December 2009, Łódź This is no ordinary film festival - Plus Camerimage is an alternative event that celebrates the technical and visual values of cinematography. The festival includes lectures, screenings and workshops, where you can learn the latest techniques in film-making. For further information, visit www.pluscamerimage.pl
The Joseph Conrad Literary Festival 3-7 November 2009, Kraków If you love literature, you won’t want to miss the Joseph Conrad Literary Festival. This inaugural event is a showcase of international talent from the literary world, bringing together best-selling authors and literary critics to the beautiful city of Kraków. There will be appearances by Roberto Calasso, Atiq Rahimi and Pascal Quignard. For further information, visit www.conradfestival.pl
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Mazowsze 5 November 2009, Warsaw Here is an opportunity to see one of Poland’s most popular folk groups, which brings traditional Polish music and dance to life through energetic choreography and vibrant costumes. With a repertoire of dances from 42 ethnographic regions of Poland, this performance is a must-see for anyone who wants to learn more about Polish folklore. For tickets and further information, visit www.eventim.pl
Placebo 19 November 2009, Warsaw Placebo - once voted one of the best alternative rock bands of all time - takes to the stage at Warsaw’s Torwar arena this November. Led by the front man Brian Molko, the band will be performing songs from their new album Battle For The Sun, released earlier year. It has been two years since Placebo has been in the Polish capital, and the gig is expected to be a sell-out. For tickets and further information, visit www.eventim.pl
Explorers Festival 18-22 November 2009, Łódź Ever wanted to conquer some of the world’s highest mountains, or face up to extreme conditions in the Polar Regions? Head to the Explorers Festival in Łódź where you can meet some of the world’s most intrepid explorers and find out more about the latest travel equipment. For further information, visit www.festiwalgor.pl
Top 10 Festivals and Events
One Love Festival 14 November 2009, Wrocław
Go Rock Festival 14, 21, 28 November 2009, Stalowa Wola
Taking its name from Bob Marley’s classic hit, the One Love Festival brings the sunshine of Jamaica to Wrocław’s Hala Ludowa. Enjoy tunes that evoke the sound of summer - both live performances and remixes by internationally renowned DJs. For further information, visit www.onelove.pl
Let it rock! If you fancy getting out of the big cities and checking out the future sound of Polish rock, head to the Go Rock Festival in Stalowa Wola in Southern Poland, which takes place at weekends throughout November. Expect to be entertained by bands from across Poland and beyond. For further information, visit www.gorock.pl
Christmas Market 1-24 December 2009, Kraków Take advantage of the excellent value against the pound that the zloty offers and soak up the festive atmosphere of Kraków in the run up to Christmas. The annual Christmas Market traditionally opens at the beginning of December and lasts until the Christmas Eve on the 24th of December. It is at its most festive in the week or so before Christmas.
Era Jazzu – Cassandra Wilson 3 November 2009, Warsaw
A-HA 17 November 2009, Łódź
Era Jazzu is an ongoing series of live gigs across Poland, with performances by some of the best-loved stars from the jazz scene. This November, make sure that you catch the powerful, yet rich vocals of Cassandra Wilson, who is in Poland for one night only. For further information, visit www.erajazzu.eu
In keeping with the current trend for all things 80s, the boys from Norway – better known as A-HA – go on tour with their latest album, Foot of the Mountain, which bears traces of the best-loved hits, including ‘Take On Me’ and ‘The Sun Always Shines On TV’. Catch them at the Arena in Łódź. For tickets and further information, visit www.eventim.pl
Photography Credits 1. The Joseph Conrad Literary Festival 2. Shutterstock 3. mazowsze.waw.pl 4. Getty Images 5. Shutterstock 6. One Love Festival 7. Getty Images 8. Shutterstock 9. eventim.pl 10. Shutterstock
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Photography courtesy of the Port of Gdańsl
The Port of Gdańsk Gateway to the World The history of the Port of Gdańsk, which spans at least one thousand years, is truly remarkable when you consider the turbulent periods of history that it has survived. The legacy of the city’s membership of the powerful Hanseatic League in the late Middle Ages, was badly destroyed during the Second World War, and was barely rebuilt during the days of Communism. Nevertheless, the Port of Gdańsk is today a thriving international hub. Text by Janusz Kasprowicz
T
o the crowds of visitors who flock to the beautiful city of Gdańsk, thoughts of the city as a major trading port and international gateway to Poland are probably far from mind, as they marvel at the Gothic and Renaissance architecture on the main street that runs through the heart of the city, or who explore the cafés and bars along the waterfront of the Motława River, however, they don’t have to look
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too far to see the evidence of the port’s history. The Gdańsk Crane – arguably one of the most iconic sights in the city – is on many visitors’ sightseeing itinerary. The fact that this wooden structure was the largest the largest port crane in Medieval Europe is a good indication of Gdańsk’s significance as an international trading centre. Ships from all over the world used to arrive in Gdańsk via the Motława
River, and would moor in what is known to day as the Old Town, where they would then get set up for traveling onwards through Poland, to Kraków via the Vistula River. During the golden age of the Hanseatic League, Gdańsk enjoyed excellent relations with other ports along the Baltic coast, including Klaipėda in Lithuania and Riga in Latvia, as well as with countries such as Hungary and Moldova, which exported their
products northwards and westwards. War and changes in the political landscape in the second half of the 18th century prompted the decline in Gdańsk’s significance as a port. One hundred years later, it was functioning as a German port. Technologies in shipping have of course changed since those days, and the Port of Gdańsk is now an expansive network of deepwater container terminals which plays a crucial role Trans-
European transportation, connecting the Nordic countries with Southern and Eastern Europe. This transformation was however not without some degree of risk. Congestion in the road and rail systems of Europe presented problems in transporting cargo to and from the port, and there was a desperate need for substantial roads and motorways. The Port of Gdańsk is in the knot of what
48.5 m tons of cargo are handled in the Northern Port
is known in the shipping industry as ‘Pan-European Transport Corridor VI’ which is one of the most significant in Europe – this enabled the construction of the A1 motorway, nicknamed the ‘Amber Motorway’ to be prioritised. This was followed by improvements in Gdańsk’s rail network and the opening of a 200 hectare logistics centre. This gave the Port of Gdańsk the infrastructure to support increased trade through its terminals. An excellent location and improvements to the infrastructure are all well and good, however it was the decision to add deepwater container terminals that really put the Port of Gdańsk on the map – this would eliminate the need for tug-boats, which add time and expense to the loading and unloading process. Ever since its launch, just over a year ago, the network of terminals, known as DCT Gdańsk SA, is gaining recognition within the shipping industry for its capacity and efficiency. International logistics group Maersk has selected the port as the principal port for its vessels since December 2008, giving ground to plans to expand the ports capabilities over the next couple of years. What makes a port attractive to a shipping company? Ultimately, the port’s ability to load and unload cargo efficiently and cost-effectively is one of the most
important factors, though a port’s capability to receive larger ships, its connections to the infrastructure on dry land and its safety records are also very important. The Port of Gdańsk is constantly analysing these factors at the same time as monitoring activity at other Baltic ports. It then adjusts its strategy in order maintain its position as one of the key ports on the Baltic coast – after all, if a port is losing clients, it will be losing them to another port on the same coastline. In May 2009, the Port of Gdańsk welcomed representatives of the European Commission. The delegation was led by Luis Valente de Oliveira, the European Coordinator of ‘Motorways of the Sea’, an initiative that encourages the use of combined maritime and rail transportation as a sustainable and economically efficient alternative to road transport. The purpose of the delegation was to consider the port’s future as a strategic hub on the transshipment routes between Europe and Asia, as congestion in many European ports intensifies as a result of increased traffic from countries such as China and Asia. Alternative ports are to be sourced, and Gdańsk – along with Stockholm and Copenhagen-Malmö – is considered as a strong contender to take on the excess freight that would traditionally have gone via South-Eastern Europe. While the Port of Gdańsk’s ability to combine maritime transportation with an excellent rail and road infrastructure is crucial to its development, one should not overlook the capabilities of the port itself. The latest technological systems have been incorporated into the construction of the port’s cargo terminals and in the development of the logistics centres. For instance, the transportation of empty containers has been completely eliminated, just one of many factors that make the Port of Gdańsk attractive to shipping companies and investors. For the first time in its thousand year history, the Port of Gdańsk is in a strong position to strengthen its connections within the Baltic corridor – not only as a distribution centre, but as a key link to the ‘Pan-European Transport Corridor VI’, which connects Scandinavia with the countries of South-Eastern Europe. Poland’s accession to the EU in 2004 brought further opportunities, as EU funds have enabled the expansion and modernisation of the www.discoverpl.com
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The Port of Gdańsk - Gateway to the World
The Port of Gdańsk: Facts and Figures Total Land Area: 653 Hectares Total Water Area: 412.56 Hectares Total Length of Quays: 21.2 km Warehousing Area: 106,300 m² Open Store Area: 548,000 m² Cargo Handling Capacity (Inner Port): 11.5 million tons Cargo Handling Capacity (Northern Port): 48.5 million tons Work 24 Hours a day in three shifts Ice-free all year long
Port of Gdańsk Gdańsk
Further Information For further information on the Port of Gdańsk, visit www.portgdansk.pl
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port’s infrastructure and improved its communications with national and international transportation networks. This simultaneously has a positive impact on other industries, and contributed to the overall growth and development in the region. As trade barriers have become more relaxed in recent years, the Port of Gdańsk has taken on the role of maritime gateway for land-locked countries in Central Europe, including Austria, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia. The port’s global reach extends much further than Europe however, as it sets its sights on developing relations with the Chinese market. In March 2008, the Port of Gdańsk launched the Chinese language version of its website, a sign that it has its finger on the pulse of global economic trends, and that it understood the significance of countries in Asia Pacific. Beyond merely publishing a Chinese language version of the website, the Port of Gdańsk is actively engaging with the Chinese logistics market in a bid to attract traffic from the East. In March 2009, the Port of Gdańsk signed an agreement of mutual co-operation with the Shanghai Municipal Transport and Port Authority, the aim of which will focus on building a develop-
ment and port management strategy, fostering a technological and commercial exchange, promoting maritime transport, improving turnover capacity and efficiency and also developing a competitive edge. It is also expected that the cooperation will involve investment projects as well as expanding shipping services. The Port of Gdańsk is certainly set to benefit from this co-operation, as almost 90% of freight imported from China is transported by sea due to the long distance from Europe.
For the first time in its thousand year history, the Port of Gdańsk is in a strong position to strengthen its connections within the Baltic corridor
The larger the vessel, the more economical the transportation on a 60 day voyage, and the Port of Gdańsk is well-equipped to handle the some of the world’s largest ships. In fact, when it comes to trade with China, Gdańsk is ranked 8th among EU ports based on their ability to load and unload Chinese ships efficiently and using the latest technologies. Of the recent members of the EU, it takes the top position. It is anticipated that the strong ties forged through shipping will have wide-reaching benefits on other aspects of SinoPolish relations. Initiatives that promote its growth and development are without a doubt helping to put the Port of Gdańsk on the map as one of the world’s leading transportation hubs. It is a member of the Baltic Ports Organisation (BPO) a body that united 42 world-class ports in 9 Baltic countries, many of which have seen considerable political changes in recent years that will have had an impact on trading conditions, including the abolishment of the Soviet Union and the expansion of the EU. Developments such as these have put the spotlight on the Baltic sea, and consequently the BPO found itself entering a new and exciting era – one that will undoubtedly see the Port of Gdańsk
Gxy: a Buxetite
200 200years yearsononand and Poland Polandstill stilldances dances Chopin ’s ’spolonaises... polonaises... totothe theF.F.Chopin
Music Musicwas washis hissecond secondlove. love. Poland Polandwas washis hisfirst. first.
www.poland.travel www.poland.travel www.discoverpl.com
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Life in Poland: Right Place, Right Time Iain Batty, International Legal Advisor and Head of the CEE Commercial Practice at CMS Cameron McKenna never imagined that Poland would become his home. His career path shows just how unpredictable life can be, and his story goes to show that being open-minded is the key to achieving one’s goals. Text by Paweł Poręba
I
ain Batty first visited Poland in 1995, when he attended a conference, though he remembers very little about this trip. He explains, “the first time I came here was in 1995. I arrived to speak in a panel discussion, though I would have never guessed that I would end up living in Poland” he says. “Poland wasn’t really an exotic
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place for me. I had already been working in Central and Eastern European countries since 1991, but Warsaw was the only capital in the region that I hadn’t been to. I had heard the usual stereotypes about Poland, which were reinforced over time, like the condition of roads! Other opinions I had heard proved to be untrue
and turned out to be very positive surprises, like people I met here and their philosophy of living” he adds. Two years later, Iain had a second chance to visit Poland, but this time the trip turned out to be the journey of a lifetime. He was instructed to advise the Polish government assist in developing
the Polish pension fund legislation. The Polish model of reform was later implemented in other CEE jurisdictions, which allowed Iain to gain a reputation as the top pension legislator in this part of Europe and quickly develop a strong regional role. “Every country is different,” explains Iain when asked for
Life in Poland: Right Place, Right Time
It is a question of spotting where the change are, where the demand is for new goods and services, and exploiting these opportunities. combination of local and international expertise.” Warsaw became Iain’s new home both professionally and personally. Poland opened new perspectives and opportunities for his development. He was over thirty and life started to accelerate rapidly. His close relationships with many multinational
corporations present in Central Europe were facilitated by the fact he was conducting business from Warsaw rather than London. Thanks to his knowledge and wide-ranging experience, Iain became well known to many companies investing on emerging European market. “I realised that this country is a good hub to develop a practice across the region and I wouldn’t find such dynamics in the UK. I was at the right place, at the right time. There was a gap to be filled in for high quality legal services on many areas of law. Even now, Poland is an exciting market and it gives me a buzz that I wouldn’t get in the UK, there are still many great opportunities to take advantage of and possibilities to grow in many areas. It is a question of spotting where the change are, where the demand is for new goods and services, and exploiting these opportunities.” Since it entered the Polish and Central European market in the early nineties, CMS Cameron McKenna has grown and evolved its practice. It is now the largest international law firm in the region with several hundred lawyers advising a wide range of businesses. Iain has seen his own practice grow and develop in the fourteen years since he first visited Poland. He has grown the businesses beyond its original pension fund roots and, by building up a team of expert lawyers, has moved the firm’s practice into diverse and growing areas. “There are still lots of areas, which I think are ripe to exploration and where businesses are not as developed as for example, in the UK” he says. “I still think that customer service in Poland isn’t as good as it could be. Businesses like ours need to provide customer service at the highest international level. This enables us to stay ahead of our local competitors - just like my passion for old cars. What I like about old cars is their quality and originality. You need to care about them more than you would a typical car, as all the materials should be true to the original. This way of thinking comes across in my vision of doing business: originality, precision and the best knowledge about what you do always sets you apart from the competition” he summarises.
Tips for Success in the CEE Market Iain Batty highlights the following points to consider when operating in the CEE market. The CEE market is more flexible than Western European markets and still changing rapidly. Even during the economic crisis, Poland is doing exceptionally well - and it is good to be where the changes happen. Markets, although now much more developed, are still subject to significant changes in this part of the world. Poland is a good base to exploring the region thanks to its convenient geographic location and travel connections. Many business ideas from the
UK and elsewhere can still be useful when imported into Poland. Customer service at the highest standard is always in demand and will always be appreciated by customers. Staff should be professional and well trained to provide toptier service. Join organisations like the British Polish Chamber of Commerce, as they can be helpful, provide professional business forums, and assist in many areas of doing business in Poland. For further information on the British Polish Chamber of commerce, visit www.bpcc.org.pl
Photography by Getty Images
hints about doing business in Central and Eastern Europe. “People tend to generalise about Central and Eastern Europe, and that’s an unwise thing to do. What I have found, is that Poland proved to be a great base. In this part of Europe, lawyers tend to be more flexible and less specialised, that’s why I have been able to work with a diverse range of governments, as well as local and multinational businesses for working on the other growing markets on the region. In the nineties, I found myself working on a developing market with the ability to suggest successful business strategies and solutions which I had already seen being implemented in other parts of the globe. From my base in Poland I started helping clients expand operations across the region and deal with issues in various countries. Often the problems our clients faced in Poland were not dissimilar to issues in Hungary or Romania. Our presence in the CEE enabled us to offer comprehensive legal solutions and, in particular, spot linkages between issues in different countries. By building up a strong team of Polish lawyers, we were able to offer to a strong
About Iain Batty
Iain Batty is a partner and member of the board of CMS Cameron McKenna, as well as the Head of the CEE Commercial Practice. He heads a team of approximately 100 highly specialised lawyers advising many
leading multinational corporations in Poland and in Central and Eastern Europe on a vast range of commercial issues. CMS Cameron McKenna is the pre-eminent provider of high quality legal and tax advice in Europe. As an organisation of nine independent law and tax firms which includes CMS Cameron McKenna, CMS offers deep local expertise combined with extensive industry-specific knowledge right across Europe. For further information on CMS Cameron McKenna, visit www.cms-cmck.com www.discoverpl.com
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Grxy: a Bxetite
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Poland’s Alcohol Market Poland’s alcohol market has been witness to many dramatic changes over the last couple of decades with the major trends now being led by the increasing consolidation and domination of major global players. Still, despite this, there is still room in the Polish alcohol market for small niche players who are banking on the success of traditional, high quality spirits some of which are seeing resurgence after many years. Text by Łukasz Liese
T
he Polish alcohol market was controlled by a state monopoly from the 1920s to the late 1980s and early 1990s when most of the industry was privatised. In 1991, the state-owned Polmos monopoly was broken down into 25 different entities with their many different brands divided between them. After that, a number of major events played big roles in shaping the market to what we see today. In 2002, the excise tax for imported spirits was lowered by 30% which resulted in increased popularity of whisky, gin and other spirits not traditionally popular in Poland. With Poland’s entry into the European Union, custom fees were abolished, putting Polish players in the alcohol market on a level playing field with other countries in Europe. EU membership also led to increasing disposable incomes in Poland, one result of which was that Poles began to travel more and subsequently, experienced new and different types of alcohols that they wanted to also be able to buy at home. Increasingly, the Polish taste for alcohol became more sophisticated and premium and super-premium products began to grow in popularity. Today, vodka continues to be the leading alcohol products in Poland however, other types of spirits such as whisky, gin and perhaps most surprisingly partly because it is not produced in Poland, wine. Poland has also quickly become a nation of beer lovers. On the whole, despite some setbacks caused by the global economic situation, Poland’s alcohol market continues to grow. Ac-
cording to a report by AC Nielson, the alcohol market in Poland grew 9.2% in terms of volume and 17% in value between November 2007 and December 2008 to PLN 25 billion (approx. £ 5.33 billion). In January 2009, an increase to the excise tax was introduced which may result in a decrease in the market once final figures for the year are made available, however, by most accounts, this will not be significant if at all. Within the industry, the overall trend in the Polish alcohol market is towards consolidation as multinational companies play an increasingly important role and become leaders on the Polish market through growth and the acquisition of Polish players. Companies such as CEDC and Belvedere which were established in Poland are also gaining an increasingly large share in international markets. The largest player on the Polish alcohol market is CEDC. Probably most known for its Bols vodka brand, the company produces over 9 million 9-litre cases of vodka each year in the four main segments of the Polish vodka market: top premium, premium, mainstream and economy. CEDC is also well known for its Absolwent vodka which is the best selling vodka in Poland and Żubrówka which is becoming increasingly popular in countries outside of Poland including the United States, Japan and England. In all, the company has a portfolio of over 700 brands and is the leading distributor of alcoholic beverages in Poland as well as being a leading importer of spirits, wine and beer with a port-
folio of over 40 brands of spirits, wines from 40 different producers and 8 brands of beer. The largest competitor for CEDC in Poland is the Belvedere group which is often associated with the well known Sobieski vodka brand which holds the seventh place in the world when it comes to sales in the premium segment. The group is present throughout Europe, Asia and North and South America. According to the company’s website, Belvedere group had record sales in 2007 of 1 042 million Euro – a rise of 35.5% over
¤ 1, 042 m sales made by the Belvedere Group in 2007
the previous year. Poland is one of the largest markets for the company accounting for a 40% share of the record sales. Aside from Sobieski, some of Belvedere Group’s other major brands include Marie Brizard which is available in 130 countries worldwide, William Peel whisky, and the well known Dutch vodka, Danzka. In Poland, the group is also very well known
for its Krupnik brand, which is the most recognised honey based liquer in Poland and Polonaise and Starogardzka vodkas. Other major players which are very active in Poland include global leaders such as Pernod Ricard which has some of the world’s most prestigious brands including Absolut Vodka, Jameson, Chivas Regal, Martell, Glenlivet, Havana Club, Ballantine’s, Malibu, Kahlúa and others and Diago, which includes brands such as Smirnoff, Johnnie Walker, Captain Morgan, Baileys, J&B, José Cuervo, Tanqueray, Guinness, Crown Royal, and the Beaulieu vineyard in its portfolio. A major player in the Polish beer market is Kompania Piwowarska (Brewing Company). Established in 1999 as a result of a merger of Tyskie Browary Książęce and Lech Browary Wielkopolski, Kompania Piwowarska, a subsidiary of one of the world’s largest global brewers, SABMiller, is the leading and largest brewer in Poland and is most known for its widely popular and award winning Tyskie beer, Żubr (Bison) which is the second largest Polish beer brand and Lech beer. Other brands in the company’s portfolio include Dębowe Mocne, Redd’s, Wojak and international premium brands Pilsner Urquell, Peroni Nastro Azzurro and Miller Genuine Draft. The other major player on the Polish beer market is Grupa Żywiec S.A. which is owned by Heineken. According to the company’s website, every third beer sold in Poland has been manufactured by the company. The most recognised www.discoverpl.com
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Poland’s Alcohol Market
brands of the group include Żywiec, Heineken, Warka, Strong, and Tatra. The group is also well known for some of its local brands including Królewskie (Warsaw and surrounding regions) and Leżajsk (South-Eastern Poland) and a brand of beer which specifically targets women called Freeq. Other brands of note include foreign beers such as the tequila flavoured Desperados, Paulaner, Murphy’s Irish Stout, Murphy’s Irish Red, Fischer, Kaper and Żywiec Porter. The third largest player on the Polish beer market is Carlsberg Polska which has three popular national brands in Harnas, Okocim and Karmi which is targeted at women to go along with three regional brands, Kasztelan, Bosman and Piast. Together, Kimpania Piwowarska, Grupa Żywiec and Carlsberg control 85% of the Polish beer market. The market for wine in Poland, which is quickly growing, is still largely fragmented with many small importers playing a significant role. However; importers such as Partner Center which imports and distributes over 500 72
November 09
different types of wines and Centrum Wina with over 700 different wines that it imports and distributes, are emerging as the leaders. The main challenge for the Polish wine industry will be to convince Poles that wine is not just a luxury product to be consumed on special occasions but a drink that can be
The main challenge for the Polish wine industry will be to convince Poles that wine is not just a luxury product to be consumed on special occasions.
enjoyed more frequently and even every day as is the case in many wine producing countries such as France, Italy and Bulgaria. What most people outside of Poland, and in fact many Poles as well, don’t know is that Poland has a centuries old tradition of producing flavoured spirits that are specific to the country. So called ‘Nalewkas’ have been produced in Poland since the 15th century, primarily for medicinal purposes in the beginning, are a flavoured spirit that is sweeter than a fruit vodka, with a similar alcohol concentration but not as sweet as a liquer. Where the Greeks have Metaxa, the Italians - Grappa, the Spanish - Porto and the Germans - fruit brandies, Poles have Nalewkas. Most Poles have forgotten that Nalewkas were traditionally a noble drink mainly because of a lack of an official definition of the drink. This resulted in lower quality alcohols which moved away from fundamental criteria of production of the drink being called Nalewkas. These fundamental criteria include the use of real fruits and 100% use of natural ingredients with no artificial colours or flavours, a spe-
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Poland’s Alcohol Market
cific maceration process and an aging process which should in most instances be at least one year. Nalewkas, besides tasting good, also have certain health benefits that many other types of alcohols do not. Nalewkas are said to improve digestion, increase circulation and as with red wine, help to destroy free radicals and are said to be good for the heart. During the past five to six years, a number of small private companies and entrepreneurs have gone back to producing Nalewkas in Poland with the hope of reviving this long Polish tradition. More recently, some larger players such as Toorank Polska and Polmos Lublin (part of Stock Spirits Group) have taken notice and also started producing Nalewkas. However, because of the labour intensive process (i.e. much of the work should be done by hand) of producing Nalewkas which are true to the tradition of the drink, production has for the most part remained in the realm of smaller players who generally have a true passion and are not necessarily out to make huge profits. One such smaller player who has emerged during the past few 74
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years in the niche Nalewka segment is the family owned Z. Kozuba i Synowie (Z. Kozuba & Sons). The company was founded by Zbigniew Kozuba and his sons Maciej and Jakub who previously produced Nalewkas for friends and family for many years based on family recipes that were passed down for generations. Seeing opportunity in this niche in the Polish alcohol market, the Kozuba family decided to make a business of it and started larger scale production in 2005 at a small production plant in Jabłonka, a village in Poland’s Mazury Lakeland. A year later, the company brought 20 000 litres to market and since that time, the company’s products have been gaining in popularity while winning several rewards for taste and quality along the way including silver and gold medals at the International review of Spirits which is organised by the Beverage Institute in Chicago. Not being able to compete directly with larger players on the Polish alcohol market by way of large advertising campaigns or on price, the company organised as many tasting sessions as possible.
“We knew that the only way to appear on the alcohol market in Poland was to allow as many people as possible to sample our products and we were convinced that by doing so, our Nalewkas would eventually sell themselves”, said Maciej Kozuba who is responsible for sales and marketing at the company, “So far, this has been the case as we have been seeing a steadily growing demand for our products and more people are beginning to recognize our brand.” The company has also begun tasting sessions outside of Poland with a very positive initial response and plans on exporting in the near future. Although Z. Kozuba i Synowie and most other small players on the Polish alcohol market will likely never grow to be as large as the major players on the alcohol market in Poland, there is and will continue to be room for them in high quality niche markets. The largest challenge, and in fact the key to survival however, will be in being able to convince consumers that it is worthwhile to sometimes pay a premium price for a quality product that is not conducive to mass production.
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Cross Cultural Business: Poland After Communism Poland’s economic growth and development are all the more extraordinary considering the more than forty years spent under Soviet domination. In this article Barry Tomalin and Anna Maria McKeever ask, “how has Communism left Poland?” and “how fast are the scars healing?” Text by Anna Maria McKeever and Barry Tomalin
I
f you go past the Polish Embassy in Berlin you will see a banner of the US film icon Gary Cooper in the movie ‘High Noon’. However instead of his sheriff’s badge he is wearing a Solidarity badge. And instead of a Colt 45 he is carrying a ballot paper. This is Poland’s way of saying, ‘Never mind the Berlin Wall. The revolution started with us.’ This year Poles celebrate the 20th anniversary of the historic talks during which Solidarity negotiated the first free elections in Poland. The date was 6 February 1989 when Lech Wałęsa, General Secretary of the Gdańsk Shipyard Solidarity (Solidarność) Labour Union began the talks which led to the Round Table Agreements. These created free elections to the Senate and 35% of the seats in the Polish Parliament. The Agreements also legitimised Solidarity and created the office of President. On 4th June 1989 Solidarity-backed candidates won a landslide victory, and in November of the same year, the Berlin Wall, a symbol of the Communist domination of Central and Eastern Europe, came down.
Today the Gdańsk shipyard is a metaphor for the Communist rust belt. Cranes are idle, the empty dry dock is rusting away, roads are potholed, and weeds flourish in the tarmac. Barely 2,000 workers remain of the 20,000 who supported Solidarity in the 1980s, and the shipyard itself is now owned by the Ukrainian Donbass industrial organisation. Solidarity may be a shadow of its former self (some Poles call it more Communist than the Communists!), but its foundation by striking workers in 1980 is considered by many to be the beginning of the end of the rule of Communism in Eastern Europe. Poland is an appropriate place for it all to start, as political observer, Adam Bromke pointed out in an article on foreign affairs, as long ago as 1962. Communist ideology failed to take any firm roots among the Polish people, partly because of the Poles’ fierce defence of their national identity against waves of German and Russian influence in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Wałęsa, a Nobel Peace Prize winner and former President of
Poland, described how the negotiations proceeded painfully and incrementally. “Only in stages, step by step, could you approach the communists and win with them,” he said. “Each link has a relevance to the entire chain. If it wasn’t for the Round Table,” he continued, “There would be no freedom of speech and communism could have lasted, as Cuba and North Korea show.” ¹ However, despite this, there are vestiges of Communism in parts of the country. In rural areas where economic conditions are sometimes particularly hard, some people even miss it. After all, it provided a degree of economic security, a home and a job, all of which may be at risk in the hard post-Communist world. Within Polish organisations, there are still traces of ‘communist thinking’, not so much in the political but in the psychological make-up of managers. “Many older Polish managers are still product oriented rather than market-oriented,” said one manager: “They think more about how to run their factory smoothly and produce their products reason-
ably efficiently, rather than adapt their products to the market and actively seek ways of making the process more efficient and more cost effective. In some ways”, he continued, “we are going through the process of enforced modernisation that you in the UK went through in the 1980s.” Along with this rather painful transformation comes a lack of confidence. There is a tendency, derived from command-andcontrol systems, for managers to be reluctant to take responsibility or show initiative - in former times it could lose you your job or worse. Maintaining the status quo is therefore safer and less stressful than adapting to change. That being said, a former Communist manager, despite his (or, to a lesser extent, her) limitations, still had experience of managing an enterprise and knowing how to keep it running, even if the wheels were quite literally coming off the operation. At the same time there is still much to be done in Poland in order to develop management training in skills such as basic as time
About the Authors
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November 09
Barry Tomalin
Anna Maria McKeever
Barry is the Director of Cultural Training at International House. He has previously worked as the Marketing Manager for BBC English and the BBC World Service. For further information about International House London, please call +44 (0) 207 611 2461
Anna Maria is the Director of the British Polish Business Club and a Polish Consultant at the Department of Culture and Communication Training for Business, at International House. For further information on the British-Polish Business Club, please call +44 (0) 207 193 6943
Cross Cultural Business: Poland After Communism
management and situational management, let alone the professional management of change. One legacy of Communist rule in Poland is the attitude to customer service. Customers were seen to be an unavoidable nuisance, to be ignored or to be treated indifferently or even rudely, depending on your mood. Standards of service in restaurants and stores have been slow to change, and the same is true of public service organisations. Two factors are working to change the traditional attitudes of Polish employees in these industries and in public administration. One is the experience of Poles overseas, who, on returning to Poland, demand the standards of service to which they have been used in the UK, the US or Germany. Another is the experience of the young Poles who went abroad in 2004, when Poland joined the EU. Working in bars, hotel receptions and shops, they experienced the standards of customer service demanded by local consumers and the fact that
their training, efficiency, charm and commitment was appreciated by their local customers. These are standards of customer service which they have brought
However, although much may remain to be done, an enormous amount has been achieved, not least the removal of the communist system itself.
back with them to Poland and are introducing into retail, public administration and the leisure and tourism industries in their own country. Poverty still exists in Poland, despite the development of economic regeneration zones and generous tax breaks to companies investing in these areas. This too will take a long time to resolve. One of the aspects of Communist rule which no one misses is corruption. The bribery of senior officials to make the simplest things work and the misappropriation of funds and equipment were common. This has largely disappeared but it will still take generations to eradicate completely throughout the country. Perhaps saddest of all is the feeling among many older people that neighbourly friendship and reliance on friends and neighbours has diminished. Facing adversity together bonded people into mutual self-help units. Independence and the mod-
ern lifestyle have led to greater loneliness is facing an uncertain economic future. However, this may just be a facet of the modern world. It’s not just people in former Communist countries who fear that family values and neighbourly support and friendship are being eroded. However, although much may remain to be done, an enormous amount has been achieved, not least the removal of the communist system itself. Now sixty-five years old, Lech Wałęsa, remembers: “Before Communism fell twenty years ago, I would never have believed the day would come when it no longer existed, when the Soviet Union no longer existed, when Europe would be united and no soldiers would stand between Poland and Germany. You would have had to beat me up to make me believe it,” he continues, “I would have been the happiest man in the galaxy at the thought.” ¹ Quotes from Mr Wałesa are from an interview in the National Newspaper, September 5th 1989, David Crossland, correspondent.
Hotel Willa Piast is the perfect place for a relaxing break. The hotel’s 29 rooms are both spacious and stylish. The restaurant serves up a fine selection of Polish and European cuisine, along with a selection of Asian dishes, and there is an extensive selection of drinks , including tea and coffee to wine, beer and spirits. Hotel Willa Piast tranquil garden is a pleasant place to relax during the summer months. For ultimate relaxation, there is the hotel’s spa centre, where a team of qualified therapists offer a wide range of relaxing and pampering massages and spa treatments. Aesthetic treatments for the face and body are also available.
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Law in Poland: Shareholder Rights in a Limited Liability Company Companies entering the Polish market often choose to do so by forming a joint venture company with a local business partner. One of the issues to be addressed is how to divide the shareholding amongst the joint venture participants. This article gives a general view of shareholder rights in a limited liability company, the typical corporate form used in the case of joint ventures. Text by Nicholas Richardson
U
nder the Polish Commercial Companies Code (known as the ‘code’), unless the articles of association provide otherwise, all shareholders have equal rights and obligations. It is possible for a company to issue preference shares with preference as to voting and to the payment of dividends. The preference privileges are limited to not more than three votes per share and to a right to receive a dividend not more that fifty per cent greater than the ordinary dividend. Each Polish company must have a management board which manages the company. In addition, a limited liability company may have a supervisory board. The supervisory board is optional unless a company has a share capital exceeding PLN 500,000 (the minimum share capital a limited liability company must have is PLN 5,000), and there are more than 25 shareholders. If a company does have a supervisory board, the articles of association may exclude or limit the exercise of individual a control by shareholders. If the company does not have a supervisory board, each shareholder may exercise a right to supervise the company. This right of supervision allows the shareholder, together with a person he so authorises - for example, a lawyer or an accountant - at any time to inspect the books and documents of the company, to draw up a balance sheet for his use or to request explanations from the management board. The management board may refuse to give explanations to the shareholder or to provide books and documents for inspection if there exists a justified concern that the shareholder
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may use them for purposes contrary to the interests of the company and as a result may cause material damage to the interests of the company. If the management board does refuse, the shareholder may demand that the matter be resolved by a shareholders resolution which must be adopted within one month from the date of the demand. The shareholder may also apply to the court for the management board to be obliged to make the information available if the resolution of shareholders is not adopted within this time limit. Resolutions of shareholders are adopted at general meetings. Resolutions may be adopted without the holding of an actual meeting if all the shareholders consent in writing to the decision to be taken or to a written vote. In addition to any matters that may be specified in the articles of association as requiring a resolution of shareholders, the code requires a resolution of shareholders for: The consideration and approval of the management board report on the operations of the company, the financial report for the previous financial year, and the granting of the approval of the performance of duties by the members of the management board. A decision on claims for redress of damage caused on the formation of the company or its management or supervision. The disposal of the business or part of the business of the company. The acquisition or disposal of real estate, unless the articles of association provide otherwise.
he repayment of additional T contributions to shareholders. The conclusion of a contract to manage a dependent company. The disposal of a right or the contracting of an obligation to do something of a value exceeding twice the amount of the share capital. Within six months of the end of the financial year, each company must hold an ordinary meeting of shareholders (in effect, the annual general meeting) which must: Consider and approve the management board report on the operations of the company and the financial report for the previous financial year. Adopt a resolution on the division of profits or financing of losses. Grant approval of the performance of duties by the members of the management board. These matters require a meeting and may not be dealt with by a written resolution. Turning now to individual shareholding thresholds, the following percentages of votes (either one shareholder or a number of shareholders acting together) are required: 10 %: To request that an extraordinary general be convened and that certain matters be place on the agenda for the next general meeting. The request must be submitted to the management board in writing not later than one month prior to the propose date of the meeting. The articles of association may grant this right to a lower percentage figure.
25% +1 vote: 25 per cent plus one vote to block a resolution on a substantial change in the objects of the company. 33.3% + 1 vote: A one third majority plus one vote allows the blocking of a resolution to: amend the articles of association, dissolve the company or transfer its business or to reduce the share capital. An increase in share capital will constitute an alteration to the articles of association unless the articles provide that increases up to a specified figure do not require an alternation of the articles in which case no further shareholder approval is needed. 50 % +1 vote: A simple majority is required for all resolutions for which the law or the articles of association do not impose higher majorities. This would include, for example, the appointment and removal of management board members. A right to apply to the court to expel a shareholder from the company if all the remaining shareholders representing more than half of the share capital so apply. 66.6%: A two third majority to pass a resolution to amend the articles of association, dissolve the company or transfer its business, to reduce the share capital. 75%: To pass a resolution on a substantial change in the objects of the company in the presence of shareholders representing at least half the share capital, to pass a resolution on merger. Under the code there are no quorum requirements – unless the articles of association provide otherwise a general meeting is valid irrespective of the number
of shares represented. As noted above, a resolution approving merger under the code requires a quorum of at least fifty per cent of the shareholders. The code sets minimum thresholds and it is possible to amend the articles of association to provide higher voting thresholds and thus protect the position of the minority shareholder in the joint venture. Indeed, a typical joint venture arrangement will involve not only ensuring that the joint venture company’s articles of association satisfy the requirements of all parties to the joint venture but also a separate shareholders’ agreement setting out how the parties will, as amongst themselves, deal with certain commercial issues arising out of their business relationship. A resolution of shareholders which contravenes the articles of association or good practice or which harms the interests of the company or which is aimed at harming the a shareholder may be challenged in a action to annul the resolution. The following persons may challenge a resolution (and holding one share is sufficient): Management board, supervisory board audit committee and individual members of those bodies. A shareholder who voted against the resolution and, following its adoption, requested his objection be recorded. A shareholder who without valid reason was prevented from participating in the meeting.
shareholder who was not A present at the meeting if the meeting was wrongly convened or the resolution concerned a matter not on the agenda. In the case of a written vote, a shareholder who was not included in the vote, who did not consent to a written vote or who voted against the resolution and lodged an objection within two weeks on receiving notice of the resolution. An action to annul a resolution must be brought within one month of the date of receipt of the notice of the resolution but not later than six month from the date of adoption of the resolution. In addition, the same persons may bring an action against the company for a declaration of the invalidity of a resolution of shareholders that is contrary to law. In a future article, we will look at other aspects of joint venture arrangements.
Nicholas Richardson Richardson & Partners
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79
Recession? What recession? Toby Beck is the owner of BSI, a Warsaw-based consultancy that assists foreign companies looking to invest in Poland. He examines the impact of the global economic downturn on Poland. Text by Toby Beck
A
showed the extent of economic collapse across the continent. In green, Poland stood out with the only country with a modest growth in the second quarter of 1.1%. Of course any politician worth his salt would jump at the chance of exploiting this good fortune. In reality, however, the relative good showing of the Polish economy has little to do with the government’s handling of the economy. The so-called anti-crisis package includes modest proposals to loosen the labour market but unfortunately no dramatic reforms. More saliently, the Polish
Photography by Getty Images
stroll around Warsaw is enough to convince even the most pessimistic economic Cassandras that the Polish economy is not in free fall - far from it. Judging by the quantity of luxury cars on the streets, continuing construction projects and the number of people in the city’s malls, the country is weathering storm pretty well. The economic statistics bear out this general picture. In contrast with all the other European economies, Poland has posted modest growth over the past two quarters. Unemployment has risen a bit and is currently ho-
Polish Prime Minister Donald Tusk (right) with Polish Minister of Finances Jacek Rostowski (left) at a joint press conferene at the Warsaw Stock Exchange in Warsaw.
vering just over 10% but this is a long way from the calamities elsewhere. Manufacturing output fell steeply in the first months of 2009 but is now roughly at the same level as this time last year. Retail sales also are also showing positive signs. Prime Minister Donald Tusk and his British-born finance minister, Jacek Rostowski, were of course the first to claim credit. The Prime Minister proudly gave a press conference against a back drop of a map of Europe which 80 November 09
economy has faired better, particularly than its smaller central European neighbours, because its relative size makes it less dependent on exports and therefore the depressed economies of Western Europe. During the boom years, the Polish financial sector was also maybe a little more conservative than others and has therefore avoided some of the fall out as the economy slowed. Most importantly, however, Poland has benefited from not joining the euro. This is an ironic
piece of good fortune as the government had made joining the euro as soon as possible a major political goal. As the economic crisis gathered momentum, investors chose to flee en masse from all currencies tainted with the emerging market label. From a high of 3.19 zlotys to the euro in July 2008, the currency plunged 50% to reach 4.82 in February of this year. As a result of government intervention the currency has since strengthened but remains 30% below its peak. The effect of this has been to simultaneously boost exports and hold back imports. As a result the trade deficit on the first seven months of the year is less than half what it was in the same period last year. The contrast with Slovakia could not be starker. Slovakia abandoned its korona and joined the euro zone at the beginning of the year. In typical style, the much of the Polish political establishment and the commentariat went into self-flagellation mode. Unlike its go-ahead southern neighbour, Poland’s failure to get into the euro zone was supposed to be another sign of Poland’s lack of collective will. In retrospect of course, 2009 was the worst of years to join the euro. Whist Poland has weathered the downturn relatively well, the Slovakian economy shrank 5.4% in the second quarter. Despite its relatively healthy position, the Polish economy has by no means out of the woods. Unemployment has risen by 1% over the past year and wage rises are starting to be nibbled by inflation. Nominal wages were up 3% in August year on year but inflation was up 3.7%. The level of individual debt delinquency has also risen dramatically. According to the National Bank of Poland, the amount of debt which is not being regularly serviced has risen by 50% of the past year to PLN 18 billion (approx. GB£ 3.9 billion). Another worrying sign is the fall in the index tracking industrial orders, which reached its lowest level this August. The number of bankruptcies is also rising, including high profile companies such
as Łódź-based apparel distributor Monnari. Despite planned budget cuts, state finances are also beginning to feel the heat. Due to falling government revenues and rising expenditures, the budget deficit is expected to widen dramatically next year to PLN 52 billion (approx. GB£ 11.2 billion) from a planned PLN 27 billion (approx. GB£ 5.8 billion) this year. More importantly, the structural problems which have long plagued the Polish economy remain as threatening as ever. Above all, there is the problem labour participation which at 52.8% is the lowest in the EU. Given an aging population and Poland’s extremely poor record of finding employment for its older citizens, this is a time bomb which will get worse unless the government finally finds the courage to do act. Still, by comparison with the rest of Europe, and indeed most of the world, Poland appears to have faired remarkably well. The government expects growth this year of 0.9%. The budget bill for 2010 envisages a growth of 1.1%. The National Bank of Poland is even more bullish with a forecast of 2%.
Toby Beck BSI Sp. z o.o. For further information about BSI Sp. z o.o, please call +48 (0) 22 626 07 90
Gxy: a Buxetite
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Grxy: a Bxetite
82 November 09
Gxy: a Buxetite
There are fewer and fewer shopping days left until Christmas, the time of year when we lavish gifts upon our loved ones. You can never go wrong with gold or silver jewellery, especially when it has been carefully chosen with the recipient’s taste in mind. Perhaps you’ll chose the festive period to ‘pop the question’ to the love of your life, and present her with a beautiful engagement ring…
From modern chunky designs to timelessly elegant pieces, the choice is endless. Natalia Gold offers one the best selections of beautiful jewellery in Poland; from traditional yellow gold and precious stones such as emerald, sapphires and of course diamonds, to more contemporary ranges that are created in multi-coloured gold and feature semi-precious gemstones such as garnets and topazes. Wearing jewellery is more than just a fashion statement – it is an expression of your personal style. Jewellery designers are constantly striving to create unique and innovative designs – Natalia Gold’s Jozef Czerniejewski is no exception – he keeps abreast of the latest trends in fashion, but is not afraid to be bold, and introduce his avant-garde designs. To views the latest collections, visit Natalia Gold’s website: www.nataliagold.pl
Head Office: 18 Kosciuszki Street, 05-500 Piaseczno. Tel: +48 22 57 09 98 e-mail: biuro@nataliagold.pl Openning hours: (Monday to Friday) 10am-6pm, (Saturday) 10am-2pm Silver Screen 15 Pulawska Street, 02-515 Warsaw. Tel: +48 22 521 51 97 Openning Hours: (Monday-Friday) 11am-7pm, (Saturday) 11am-2pm Auchan Piaseczno 46 Pulawska Street, 05-500 Piaseczno. Tel: +48 22 711 26 26 Openning Hours: (Monday-Saturday) 9am-21pm, (Sundays) 10am-20pm www.discoverpl.com 83
Grxy: a Bxetite
84 November 09