December 2009 Issue 20 www.discoverpl.com £2.99
HistoryIssue Cover Story: Poland’s historic sites on page 16
London | Warsaw
Business | Lifestyle | Travel
City Focus:
Tradition:
on page 28
on page 56
Tri-City Discover Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot
Celebrating Christmas in Poland
The Augustów Canal nd’s great One of Pola waterways
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Beauty and aesthetics in dentistry
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Ladies and Gentlemen, It is great honour and pleasure to invite you, on behalf of our entire team, to the Dental Excellence Clinic. My intention and simultaneously professional dream was to create a clinic providing complex services for its Patients. We offer them quality and long-lasting treatment effects. The joy and happiness of our Patients, who can once again believe in themselves, are the greatest satisfaction. Smile. You are in good hands!
Tel. +48 22 868 55 87
www.dentalexcellence.pl
From the first of November 2009 we change our location: 56 Jerozolimskie Avenue, 00-803 Warsaw www.discoverpl.com
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Photograph by Luke Smith
Welcome! Welcome! Poland is a country steeped in history - almost every city, town and village tells a story of bravery and triumph against adversity, which is why this month, Discover Poland visits some of the most popular historic sites, including the thirteen places of interest on the UNESCO World Heritage List that are found in Poland. This month, we also take a closer look at Tri-City; Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot – three cities that make up one fantastic destination that is well worth discovering. It is impossible to condense the many aspects of Tri-City into one edition of Discover Poland, but we did our best – let me know what you think! Perhaps you have some travel tips of your own? Why not drop me an e-mail a.hope@discoverpl.com As 2009 draws to a close, I would like to take the opportunity to thank everyone who has been involved in Discover Poland during the past twelve months. Unfortunately there are far too many names to list here, however one organisation that deserves a special mention is the Polish National Tourist Office in London, which has been relentless in its support of Discover Poland. Best wishes for the festive season – and all the best for the New Year,
Alison Managing Director Tomasz P. Kmiecik t.kmiecik@discoverpl.com
6 Chełmno in Pictures
Editor Alison Hope a.hope@discoverpl.com Contributors Weronika Bajduszewska, Mariola Biedrzycka, Aiden Brisland Iwona Golinska, Robert Jurkiewicz, Barbara Kaniewska, Anna J. Kutor, Łukasz Liese, Anna Maria McKeever, Nicholas Richardson, Barry Tomalin, Andrew Usowicz, Camiel van der Meij, Barbara Zaragoza, Agata Zborowska Graphic AdStudio.co.uk Manager Krzysztof Gackowski studio@AdStudio.co.uk Lead Graphic Designer Rafał Szmidt; Artworker Agnieszka Czech Advertising Manager Izabela Zajączkowska Marketing and Advertising Sales Executives Anna Trznadel: at@discoverpl.com Bożena Szul: b.szul@discoverpl.com
Poland’s ‘City of Lovers’
8 Discover Poland News 13 14 16
Historic Hotels of Poland
Kurozwęki Castle in Świętokrzyskie
News from the Polish National Tourist Office in London Polish Sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List
13 unmissable places to visit
Discover Poland is published by Fortis Media LTD with the cooperation of The Polish National Tourist Office
All correspondence and advertising enquiries should be addressed to: Discover Poland, Fortis Media LTD, 603 Cumberland House, 80 Scrubs Lane, London NW10 6RF Tel: + 44 (0) 208 96 444 88, Fax: + 44 (0) 208 96 077 37, Advertising: (London) + 44 (0) 208 96 444 88 ext. 401 (Warsaw) +48 (0) 22 219 55 48, (Cracow) +48 (0) 12 394 65 88, e-mail: sales@discoverpl.com, www.discoverpl.com
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
TT-COC-002452
Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel
All materials are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and dates are corrected at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Discover Poland are not necessarily those of Discover Poland. Fortis Media LTD does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owners’ risk.
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Magazine Contents: December 2009
28 22 Kraków’s Crazy Communist History Explore the city in a Trabant
24 The Warsaw Uprising Museum
46 Top 10 Festivals and Events
26 Top 10 Lower Silesia
48 Traversing Around Tarnów
28 Tri-City
53 Gourmet Warsaw
44 Augustów Canal
54 Top 10 Kuiavia-Pomerania
Where history comes to life
A small town that is big on charm
Things to do in southern Poland
Leg of duck comfit with red cabbage confiture
Everything you need to know about Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot
Good reasons to visit Toruń and the surrounding area
One of Poland’s Great Waterways
56 British and Polish Christmas Customs 62
Meet the UK Trade & Investment Team in Warsaw
66
Life in Poland: “I Believe the Future is Bright”
John Duckworth, Managing Director of property firm, Jones Lang LaSalle’s Central and Eastern European operations.
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70
New Connect
74
Law in Poland
76
Tax Capital Group in Poland Conditions, Advantages and Opportunities
80
Crisis Strategy and Telecommunications in Poland
Poland’s Alternative Trading Platform
Leases and Tenancies under Polish law
www.discoverpl.com
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Chełmno in Pictures Thinking about whisking your loved-one off on a romantic break? Planning to propose in the New Year? There is no better place to take your lover than Chełmno, located in Northern Poland. For further information, visit www.chelmno.pl
Charming Streets Often described as the Kraków of Northern Poland on account of its charm and allure, Chełmno is also known as the ‘City of Lovers’ thanks to relics of St. Valentine that have been housed in the town’s parish church for several centuries.
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Photography courtesy of the town of Chełmno
Chełmno in Pictures
Romantic Chełmno The romantic theme continues throughout the town, with a ‘lovers’ bench’, special bread rolls baked with lovage, and classical music concerts in the Market Square. www.discoverpl.com
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Subscription:
for dental and medial treatment, and paying much less than they would at home for a high standard of care. For many patients however, the prospect of travelling to Poland for treatment can be daunting, especially if they are visiting for the first time. Dental Tour is a new service in the beautiful town of Zielona Góra that offers a complete package for dental patients; from taking care of their travel arrangements and arranging their treatment with a highly qualified dental team, to advising on interesting places to visit in the region. Dental Tour has also partnered with Hotel Aura, a very comfortable three-star hotel. Bogusław Jedraś from Dental Tour said, “Zielona Góra is not only a beautiful place to visit, it is also where patients can make considerable savings on their dental treatment. One further advantage is the fact that Zielona Góra is close to airports in Berlin, Poznań and Wrocław, which makes it particularly accessable to patients from the United Kingdom and Ireland.”For further information, visit www.dentaltour.pl
Discover Poland November 2009
Issue 19 www.discove
rpl.com £2.99
WinterSportsIss ue
Cover Story:
Winter sports
in Poland on
London | Warsaw Business | Lifestyle | Travel
City Focus:
Everything you need to know about Kraków
page 16
Business:
Poland’s alcohol market
on page 28
on page 70
Christmas Shopping in Poland Get inspiration
on page 56
Winter Sports in Poland
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Never miss an edition of Discover Poland with a subscription. Get Discover Poland delivered to your door every month, for just £ 24.00 (£ 46 to addresses in Poland – please get in contact for the subscription rates to other destinations) - that’s a saving of over 20% of the cover price. To order your subscription, visit www.discoverpl.com or e-mail subscriptions@discoverpl.com. Don’t forget that you can also share Discover Poland with your friends. Discover Poland is available online. Visit www.discoverpl.com/epages to download the latest edition, and also browse previous ones.
temporary outdoor ice rink that has been set up in the gardens of Hala Stulecia, one of the city’s best-known land-marks. The rink is open to the public from 5pm to 10pm (closed for resurfacing between noon and 1pm), Monday to Friday and from 8am to 10pm (closed for resurfacing between 4pm and 5pm) at the weekend. For further information, visit www.halaludowa.wroc.pl
Hotels: Andel’s Hotel in Łódź Wins Three Awards
Medical Tourism: Dental Tour
Ice Skating:
Regular readers of Discover Poland will be aware of the phenomena of ‘medical tourism’ and the fact that patients from the United Kingdom and Ireland are heading to Poland
Hala Stulecia, Wrocław Embrace the magic of winter in Wrocław this month, by wrapping up in warm clothes and heading to the
the ‘Architecture of the Year – Conversion of an Existing Building to Hotel Use’ distinction at the 12th European Hotel Design Awards 2009 in London. In the same week, the first 4-star hotel in Łódź was named the ‘Best Hotel Development’ and ‘Best Development Overall’ by CIJ, the CEE real estate magazine, at a ceremony in Warsaw. In particular, the hotel was distinguished for the conversion of an existing historic building into a hotel and for its outstanding design. “These awards recognise of our efforts and of the excellent work of our architects. The Andel’s Łódź is one of our showcase projects; after all, as a hotel developer, it is not often that we have the opportunity to combine old with new in such a way. I am proud that we took on and successfully mastered the challenge and I thank each of the members of the jury,” said Dr. Franz Jurkowitsch, CEO of Warimpex following the awards. The Andel’s Hotel in Łódź is located in Manufaktura, a former mill on the edge of the Old Town that was established in 1878 by textile magnate Izrael Poznański. With its 278 rooms and suites and seven flexible conference rooms with a total space of 3,100 m², the Andel’s Hotel is one of the most modern city and business hotels in Poland. For further information, visit www.andelslodz.com
Half a year after its grand opening, the Andel’s Hotel in Łódź has received three awards in the fields of architecture, design and development. In early November, Warimpex Finanz- und Beteiligungs AG and Vienna International Hotelmanagement AG (VI), together with the architects Jestico + Whiles and OP Architekten, were thrilled to accept
The central location of the Apartments allows quick access to all cultural places and historical sites in Krakow.
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Nordic House Apartments are located in the very heart of the Old Town, only 40 meters from the famous Main Market Square. We offer some of the largest bedrooms in Krakow. If you are looking for a pleasent place to stay with a warm atmosphere choose our apartments.
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To contact us Visit our website: http://nordichouse.pl Our contact details: 5 Sw. Anny Street, 31-008, Krakow, PL Phone number: 0048 12 421 7380. Email address: nh@nordichouse.pl
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Discover Poland: News
Medical Tourism: Destination Health 17-18 April 2010, London
Poland’s leading private hospitals and clinics offering dental and cosmetic surgery will be exhibiting their services at Destination Health, a new health and medical tourism consumer show aimed at patients looking to travel abroad for treatment. Supported by ‘The Independent’, one of the UK’s leading national newspapers and Europe’s number one medical tourism website ‘Treatment Abroad’ along with media partners ‘Discover Poland’ magazine, Destination Health will take place at London’s Olympia Exhibition & Conference Centre. Destination Health is expected to attract up to 5,000 people from all walks of life who are actively planning to travel abroad for treatment. They will also have a unique opportunity to meet and discuss their medical requirements with a host of hospitals, clinics and consultants representing the world’s lead-
ing medical tourism destinations right on their doorstep’ said Event Director Nav Mann. Also expected to attend are healthcare professionals from the United Kingdom, who are looking for business cooperations with clinics in Poland. Exhibitors will be promoting a wide range of health and medical services including dental treatments, cosmetic surgery, IVF and other medical procedures. Exhibitors will also include medical spas, health resorts, insurance companies, travel agencies, intermediaries and medical tour operators. Visitors to the show will be offered free seminars, presentations and all the help and information they need to make their decision to travel abroad for treatment. Entry to the show is free if visitors register in advance. The price at the door is £12. For further information, visit www. destinationhealth.co.uk
Christmas: Gdańsk’s Christmas Lights, 5 December 2009 Did you know that Gdańsk was the first Polish city to adopt the tradition of switching on the city’s Christmas lights? What started in 1989 as a low-key affair of illuminating the Christmas tree in the heart of the city’s Old Town has now become a popular event with locals and visitors alike. Youngsters are encouraged to create Christmas decorations, with the best efforts being displayed on the city’s Christmas tree, and then everyone waits patiently for Santa Clause to arrive on the city’s famous Green Bridge. A fun evening for all the family! For further information, visit www.gdansk.pl
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Rynek Podgórski 15/2 30 -518 Cracow tel.: +48 12 263 00 06 mob: +48 695 46 51 55
www.wapdent.pl
www.discoverpl.com
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A unique place for unique people
Txns To xg Discover Poland: News
Tourism: Ů Hotel Ů Restaurant Ů Park Ů Conference Centre Ů Lezno Palace is an elegant 18th century palace set against the backdrop of landscaped gardens and parkland. It is perfect for anyone who appreciates the finer things in life, such as magnificent surroundings and attention to detail.
Lezno Palace restaurant is ideal for special occasions such as weddings and family gatherings thanks to its stylish interior, welcoming ambience and of course its beautifully created dishes and carefully selected wine-list. Lezno Palace makes it ideal for a relaxing break, yet it is not far from the Tri-city conurbation that comprises of Gdansk, Gdynia and Sopot, and there is no shortage of fascinating places to visit. Lezno Palace, 80-298 Gdańsk, ul. Leźno 45 tel. +48 58 523 20 90, www.palacwleznie.pl e-mail: recepcja@palacwleznie.pl or recepcja@ug.gda.pl
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Taxis Fly the Flag for Poland in London Next time you’re in London, keep an eye out for one of fourteen very special taxis ferrying passenger around the British capital over the next six months; they are branded in the logo of the Polish National Tourist Office, and are part of an ongoing campaign to promote tourism in Poland. Speaking from the Polish National Tourist Office in London, Acting Director Bogdan Becla said, “We are very excited about having these taxis on the streets of central London. What better way to raise the profile of Poland as a tourist destination, than on a fleet of taxis driving around one of the world’s busiest cities?�
Tourism: Sunshine World Scoops Midlands Focus Tourism Award for 2009
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For further information, visit www. poland.travel
Alan’s experience provides him with industry insight as to what people are looking for on their holiday on the slopes. Speaking from his office in London, Alan
Sunshine World, the tour operator that specialises in winter sports breaks in Poland has been selected as the winner of the Midlands Focus Tourism Award for 2009. The Directors of regional newspaper, the Midlands Focus were very impressed with the services provided by Sunshine World and, in particular, the entrepreneurial talents of Managing Director, Alan Garcia. So much so, that the publication’s hierarchy have voted unanimously in favour of presenting the company with the annual BA Award for Tourism. A qualified snowboard instructor, Alpine ski instructor and lawn tennis coach,
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Discover Poland: News
said, “It has been a great surprise and very welcome honour to receive this accolade from the Midlands Focus newspaper for our pioneering work in opening up new and largely unexplored travel and activity opportunities to the British travelling public. The entire Sunshine World team has been energised further to continue our efforts to deliver the very best and friendliest service in the travel industry while seeking to deliver the lowest prices in the highest value destinations we can find!” For further information on Sunshine World, visit www.sunshineworld. co.uk
Culture: Chopin 2010 2010 marks the 200 anniversary of the Fryderyk Chopin’s birth. ‘Chopin 2010’ is a 12 month celebration of the life and work of the great composer, which includes educational initiatives, specially created tours of Chopin’s birthplace, and of course an abundance of performances taking place across Poland. For further information, visit www.chopin2010.com
Website:
Centrum Stomatologii BM Jędraś ٠ Conservative dentistry ٠ Dentistry prosthodontics ٠ Orthodontics ٠ Various dental braces ٠ BEYOND, Teeth whitening www.centrumstomatologii.pl Zielona Góra ul. II Armii 30 Tel.: 00 48 68454 90 43 Tel.: 0048 605 997 559
www.karnet.krakow.pl It is not for nothing that Kraków is known as the ‘Cultural Capital of Poland’, as there are plenty of exhibitions, festivals, and performances taking place every day. Make sure that you don’t miss out on the city’s exciting cultural offerings - from the classical to the contemporary - by logging on to www.karnet.krakow.pl, which provides comprehensive listings in both English and Polish.
Enjoy and Take Advantage Welcome in Zielona Góra
www.dentaltour.pl Spa: Coen Spa’s Christmas Treats Give the gift of relaxation this year. The Coen day spa in Łódź is offering a range of special packages and vouchers for the festive season, as well as limited edition sets of Thalgo products, with something to suit every skin type. For further information, visit www.coen.pl
Aura Hotel, 15b Lesna Street 65-794 Zielona Góra, Poland +48 68 475 56 10, www.aurahotel.pl
HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFA
Hotel of Prince Joseph is a magic place featuring grandeur interior design. The mixture of handmade sculptures and luxury will surprise all visitors and provide to unrepeatable climate for rest and fun. The décor of the restaurant gives unique atmosphere for social and business meeting. The special dish of our cuisine is Masurian dainty according on 200 years old recipe.
Poznań, Ostrowska Street 319/393
Reservations on-line: www.hotelkj.pl
Phone: 0048 (061) 872-63-19 www.discoverpl.com
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Historic Hotels of Poland There are many historic places to stay in Poland, including majestic palaces and rustic farmhouses. This month, Discover Poland visits Kurozwęki Castle, in the southern region of Świętokrzyskie. Text by Barbara Kaniewska
L
ike many historic castles, palaces and stately homes in Poland, Kurozwęki Castle has had several owners over the centuries. Originally built in the 16th century for the Kurozwęcki family, which gave the castle its name, it was then owned by the Lanckoroński family. It was transformed into a Baroque and Neo-classical style residence by Maciej Sołtyk towards the end of the 18th century. Today, Kurozwęki Castle is owned by Marcin Popiel and his family; direct descendants of the Kurozwęki family, making it one of very few historic properties to come full circle return to the heirs of the original owners. The Popiel family has invested, and indeed continues to invest, in the reconstruction of Kurozwęki Castle, employing local craftsmen who take great pride in applying traditional methods and techniques to the process. While this may mean that progress may be slow, the Popiels are confident that patience will pay off, and that the end results will be worthwhile in the long run. One of the most impressive examples of the restoration work currently being undertaken is an ancient yet well-preserved mural in the Kurozwęki chapel. Kurozwęki Castle’s two annexes contain comfortable apartments, each with classically styled interiors. There is also a conservatory, a lounge
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and a banqueting hall. It is a great place for families to spend a short break – especially those with small children. There are sight-seeing trails that have been created with younger guests in mind, and there is even a small zoo, where pony and camel rides are on offer. A further attraction is a labyrinth carved in a field of maize. With a total of 4km of alleys, it is the largest of its kind in Poland, if not in Europe.
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oland Discover P n Competitio g a fantastic rin fe of land is Discover Po ts’ accomgh cludes 3 ni le prize that in for two peop d breakfast that te no modation an se ea i Castle. Pl at Kurozwęk ble for mak be responsi ill w r ne in win, To l. the w te ho e n way to th s ing their ow and addres l your name ai m ey pl with the sim om .c pl er @discov re to feedback subject befo RIC as the TO IS H d condid wor an s rm Te r 2009. 31 Decembe tions apply.
Further Information Kurozwęki Castle is a member of Historic Hotels of Poland – for further information on this organisation and to find out more about unique hotels across Poland, visit www.hhpoland.com
kUROZWĘki
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Paese Restaurant is a well-established Corsican Restaurant in Kraków that is popular with locals and visitors alike. Located in a enchanting and secluded street, yet still few steps away from the heart of Kraków’s main market square. Paese Restaurant is the ideal venue for romantic dining, celebrations, private events, and even business meetings. The menu features specialities such as Corsican bean soup, slices of lamb’s leg in a creamy garlic sauce, mixed fish platter with sea bream and sea bass, shrimps and calamari prepared with passion and pride by our acomplished chefs. For desert, there is a choice of Fiadone, Créme brulée, and nougat ice cream with caramel and mandarins.
for custome rs who will bring th is copy of Discover Poland
Paese Corsican Restau rant 24 Poselska Street, 31002 Kraków tel: +48 (012) 421 62 73 email: restauracja@pae se.com.pl Open Daily: 13.00 - 23. 00 www.paese.com.pl
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www.sklep-gemini.pl tel. 0048 15 86 12 066 www.discoverpl.com
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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
News from the Polish National Tourist Office in London IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel www.poland.travel
Christmas Message
from Bogdan Becla
Bogdan Becla is the Acting Director of the Polish National Tourist Office in London: “As one year draws to a close and another is about to begin, here at the Polish National Tourist Office we can look back on a busy 12 months, and look forward to an even busier 2010. Some of this year’s highlights included recapturing the secrets of the Enigma machine at Bletchley Park, our involvement in the Thames Festival, last month’s World Travel Market and of course the Polska Year events which helped to bring a little bit of contemporary Poland to the UK.
We expect to build on this year’s successes as we move into the new year, when a major draw for visitors to Poland will be the Chopin 2010 events. Poland will be celebrating the great composer’s 200th birthday throughout the year ahead and I can guarantee that it will be a great time to visit our country, whether you’re coming back to spend more time with us, or are considering your first trip to a very special destination. We’ve made plenty of new friends over the last year and built on many existing relationships. With that in mind I’d like to encourage our readers, advertisers and partners to make the PNTO and Discover Poland even bigger and even more successful over the next 12 months. And finally, on behalf of the Polish National Tourist Office in London, I’d like to wish readers, contributors and everyone at Discover Poland a very Merry Christmas and a prosperous and Happy New Year. Wesołych świąt i szczęśliwego nowego roku.” www.poland.travel
Poland Prepares for Christmas
Christmas markets make Poland a festive wonderland… Kraków, Warsaw and Gdansk will enter into the spirit of the season this December as all three cities hold their famous Christmas markets. Visitors will get the chance to experience a traditional Polish Christmas, sample festive food, enjoy Polish carols and warm themselves with hot mulled wine. And of course a white Christmas is
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always on the cards in Poland. Perhaps the country’s best-known Christmas market is the one held every year on Kraków’s Rynek, featuring handicrafts from across the Małopolska region, wonderful foodstuffs including bigos, pierogi and delicious oscypek cheese, and plenty of hot wine to help keep the cold at bay. The market gets underway on 7 December and lasts until after Christmas Day. Warsaw’s famous Jarmark, held in front of the Royal Palace, runs from 27 November to 23 December and features traditional regional produce as well as the latest fashions. It also comes complete with lashings of Polish food and tasty hot wine. The Christmas fair or Jarmark Gwiazdkowy in Gdańsk takes place between 5 and 23 December, promising a wide range of gifts from winter sports equipment to cosmetics. Poland is a special country at any time of year, but it really stands out at Christmas and the traditional Christmas markets bring an extra slice of festive magic to Poland’s wonderful cities - but Christmas in Poland isn’t all about shopping. A festive visit is always a great chance to unwind in one of Europe’s winter wonderlands, and it’s even easier to make the trip now that Aer Lingus is flying direct to Warsaw from London every day of the week.
Why Not Visit Warsaw? Full of life and vitality, Warsaw offers a whole host of entertainments to suit every taste and every pocket. Artistically, the city is rightly proud of its Polish and international art collections housed at the National Museum, the Royal Palace, Palace of Wilanów and Palace on the Island, as well as more modern collections at the Zacheta Gallery and the Modern Art Centre in the Ujazdowski Palace. Among the city’s many art-related festivals are
Chopin and His Europe, ‘Chopiniana’ – Chopin’s Days in Warsaw, the contemporary music festival ‘Warsaw’s Autumn’, the Mozart Festival and the International Stanisław Moniuszko Vocal Music Competition Warsaw has a wealth of events to suit all tastes. Perhaps surprisingly, Warsaw also has a rich jazz scene with the JVC Jazz Festival, Warsaw’s Summer Jazz Days and the open-air Jazz in the Old Town Festival setting
the International Biannual Poster Exposition and International Theatre Confrontations. Warsaw’s galleries and theatres are always happy to welcome visitors and guests and really excel when an exhibition is in town. Widely acclaimed as the City of Music, Warsaw also offers classical music enthusiasts a rich box of delights. There’s the impressive National Opera House, the smaller stage at the Cameral Opera House, the National Concert Hall, the National Theatre and the stages of the Roma and Buffo theatres which will impress even the most demanding connoisseur. Hosting a number of internationally-recognised music events such as the International Frederic Chopin Piano Competition, the Music Gardens Festival,
the city alight every year. The city also does modern music with chill out, salsa, hip hop and blues being celebrated in the city’s bars and clubs. The annual Orange Festival provides star-studded glitz and glamour and will undoubtedly impress with its staging and multimedia effects. Warsaw is also proud of its past and celebrates its heritage in a number of festivals, while acknowledging the devastation of World War Two and its darker days. The city is also keen to reflect its diversity and celebrates its Jewish heritage every September in the Singer Festival, one of the most important events in the city’s calendar. This variety and quality of experience will give Warsaw the edge to gain the title of European Capital of Culture 2016.
New Routes to Warsaw
Photography by Shutterstock
Polish National Tourist Office
Poland is now closer than ever before thanks to a new route opening between London and Warsaw. Irish airline Aer Lingus has launched daily flights to Warsaw from its new hub at London Gatwick. The Polish National Tourist Office is delighted with the extra flights which will put Poland on the doorstep of
thousands of British holidaymakers. Aer Lingus is committing itself to one flight each way every day of the week between the two capital cities scheduling flights seven days a week between London and Warsaw, which makes it even more accessible for people to visit Poland. For further information, visit www.aerlingus.com
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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
News from the Polish National Tourist Office in London IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel Polish National Tourist Office
www.poland.travel
Your Questions The Polish National Tourist Office’s Answers The Polish National Tourist Office in London regularly receives enquiries from people planning to visit Poland. Here are just some of the more commonly asked questions.
Your Questions. Chanukah celQ Isebrated in Poland?
and festivals will be celebrated. To find out more about Chanuka and other Jewish festivals in Warsaw, please visit www.warszawa. jewish.org.pl which provides information in both English and in Polish. Information on Jewish celebrations in Kraków can be found on www.jcckrakow.org, which also provides information in both English and in Polish. Chanukah Sameach!
Will shops be open during the Christmas holidays?
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usually at around 2pm, although you may find that larger stores – especially the supermarket chains, stay open a bit later.
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During the festive season, shops will be closed on 25 and 26 December. Shops tend to close earlier on 24 December,
Train travel is not generally a problem during the holiday season in Poland as there are often extra trains running. Do pay particular attention to the timetable though, as there may be a few changes to the timings. There may also be special fares during this time.
Photography by Shutterstock
There are thriving Jewish communities in the major Polish cities, and significant dates
Will there be a normal train service operating between Warsaw and Kraków during the holiday period?
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Museums in Poland There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to the opening hours of museums in Poland. Most are open from morning until late afternoon, and many tend to be closed on a Monday. Here are the opening hours for some of the more popular museums and galleries. The Royal Castle, Warsaw Tuesday to Saturday, 10 am to 4 pm Sunday, 11 am to 4 pm
The National Museum, Warsaw Tuesday, 10 am to 5 pm Wednesday to Thursday, 10 am to 4 pm Friday, noon to 9 pm Saturday to Sunday, noon to 6 pm
The Warsaw Uprising Museum Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 8 am to 6 pm Thursday, 8 am to 8 pm Saturday to Sunday, 10 am to 6 pm
The Museum of the Polish Army, Warsaw Wednesday, 10 am to 5 pm Thursday to Sunday, 10 am to 4 pm
Wawel Royal Castle, Kraków Tuesday to Saturday, 9.30 am to 4 pm Sunday, 10 am to 4 pm
The National Museum, Kraków Tuesday to Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm Sunday, 10 am to 4 pm The Archaeological Museum, Kraków Monday to Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10 am to 2 pm Thursday 2 pm to 6 pm
Contact the Polish National Tourist Office in London Polish National Tourist Office, Westgate House, Westgate, London, United Kingdom, W5 1YY Telephone: +44 (0) 8700 675010, london@poland.travel, www.poland.travel Join the Polish National Tourist Office community on Facebook by visiting www.polishWOWfactor.com or follow it on Twitter www.twitter.com.polishWOWfactor
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Polish Sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List UNESCO’s World Heritage List was established to protect the world’s most significant sites of cultural and natural heritage from destruction as a result of social and industrial development. In 1972, the UNESCO General Conference adopted the ‘Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage.’ After being ratified by twenty countries, the convention came into effect in 1975, and was ratified by Poland in 1976. 1 16 20.indd 16
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History in Poland
Centennial Hall Wrocław
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Wrocław’s Centennial Hall, built at the beginning of 20th century, is a classic example of creative and innovative uses of reinforced concrete in the construction of a building. Many of the methods and techniques used in the construction of Centennial Hall have since become common practice in the construction industry. The hall is a symmetrical quatrefoil with a vast circular central space, built in the Szczytnicki Park, as a part of an exhibition commemorating the 100th anniversary of the victory of European Allies over Napoleon. It is widely assumed that the design was inspired by the Roman Pantheon and Hagia Sophia Church in Instanbul. Centennial Hall is one of the largest reinforced concrete buildings in the world. Its axis is 152 m, the dome is 65 m in diameter and 42 m high, while its vast form remains strikingly light and airy.
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he object of the Convention is to recognise the significance of cultural and natural heritage to mankind, which is why the UNESCO World Heritage List contains both architectural monuments, monuments of nature and geological formations as well as historical sites; sites created jointly by the forces of nature and human effort. To be included in the World Heritage List, a site must be of outstanding universal value, and meet at least one of ten defined selection criteria. Any country that has a World Heritage Site is obliged to protect it, and ensure that it is preserved for generations to come to enjoy it. There are currently 890 World Heritage sites throughout the world. Thirteen of them are in Poland.
Primeval Forest Białowieża
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No other temperate zone forest in Europe can claim to be as well preserved as the Białowieża Primeval Forest, which has retained its natural characteristics. Following regulations outlined by royal property law, the grounds of the forest are limited to hunting, bee-keeping, and livestock grazing. Firewood can only be collected if it is deadwood, or if trees have fallen over in the wind.
Mannerist Calvary Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
The Białowieża Forest is home to many species that are extinct elsewhere, and many types of tree found there are almost unknown anywhere else. It is estimated that over 3, 000 species of fungus are found within the forest, including those that are unique to primeval forest conditions that have been undisturbed by modern forestry techniques.
Historic Centre Warsaw
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Warsaw’s Old Town is a unique example of the reconstruction of an historic centre, which also represents the rebirth of Polish culture, something that the Nazis had intended to destroy. The city first came into being at the beginning of the 14th century, and developed rapidly thanks to its location on the Vistula River. During the Second World War, the historic centre of Warsaw suffered extensive damage, as did many towns and cities in Poland. Almost 90% of the Old Town was destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. The reconstruction process started soon after the end of the war. During the period between 1945 and 1963, churches, palaces and private houses were reconstructed and restored to their former glory.
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The Mannerist Calvary is an exceptional example of an open space that incorporates a complex of mannerist chapels of the Passion of Christ and landscapes that resemble the historic site of Christ’s crucifixion. The pilgrimage tradition, still alive today, makes the Passion plays at the Calvary one of the most celebrated religious events in Poland. Here, the natural landscape and cultural attributes join together to create a unique spiritual experience, and it is this exceptional combination of sacred and the natural that makes Kalwaria Zebrzydowska stand out among other European calvaries.
Muskauer Park German-Polish Border
Churches of Peace Jawor and Świdnica
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The Silesian Churches of Peace are directly connected to the Treaty of Wetsphalia that ended the Thirty Years’ War in Europe in 1648. The Catholic Emperor of the Habsburg monarchy was forced to authorise the erection of three churches for the growing Protestant population in Silesia. The Emperor agreed to this, but issued a number of difficult conditions, namely that the churches had to be built exclusively of perishable materials such as wood and clay, and that they were to be located outside the city walls. Two of the three churches are still standing today, and they are considered to be among the most sacred timber-framed structures in Europe. Both bear testimony to the ancient tradition of wooden and half-timbered architecture. They are also an outstanding example of Baroque sacral art
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Conceived as a ‘painting with plants’, blending seamlessly with the surrounding country landscape, Muskauer Park is a landscaped park that sits along the Neisse River, on the German-Polish border. It was created by Prince Hermann von Puckler-Muskau, who wanted to pioneer new approaches to landscape design and influence the development of landscape architecture in Europe and America. Muskauer Park does not seek to evoke classical landscapes or some notion of paradise; instead it uses locally growing plants to enhance the existing landscape. The park also features a reconstructed castle, bridges and an expansive arboretum.
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History in Poland
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his own state, and had declared it as a cultural and economic centre on the trade route linking Western and Northern Europe to the Black Sea.
Castle of the Teutonic Order 8 Malbork
that coexists with Lutheran theology and ideology.
Old City Zamość
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Founded in 1582, Zamość is a rare example of a city that was created as a work of art. This greenfield project was based on Italian Renaissance theories of the ‘ideal city’. Despite later modifications, Zamość has retained not only its original layout and fortifications, but also a large number of original buildings. It therefore remains an outstanding example of architecture and urbanism. The city was established by Jan Zamoyski, a Polish-Lithuanian nobleman who considered it to be
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The fortified castle in Malbork, built by Teutonic Order is not only a remarkable example of Gothic architecture; it is the world’s largest brick-built castle. Construction of the castle started in 1274, and as the Order’s conquests in Pomerania and Prussia strengthened their standing, the castle became the capital of the Teutonic State in 1309, and was the seat of the Grand Master from 1324. The castle’s interior, which now houses an extensive collection of museum exhibits, is a marvel of architectural ingenuity. The Great Refectory and the Summer Refectory in the Grand Master’s palace, with its magnificent palm vaults, are the most impressive, while the reception Hall is one of the most elegant examples of 14th century interiors in Poland.
Salt Mine Wieliczka
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Deposits of rock salt in Wieliczka, not far from Kraków, have been actively mined since the 13th century, making it an exceptional example in mining history. Traces of the past, preserved deep within the mine reflect how mining technology has evolved over time. There is an exhibition of antique tools and machinery, as well as examples of the different
drainage, lighting and ventilation systems that have been used throughout the centuries. The Wieliczka Salt Mine has some 300 km of passages and over 2, 000 chambers on nine levels, each between 57m and 327m deep. The underground galleries contain scenic lakes, stalagmites, stalactites and other incredible salt crystal formations. Some of the abandoned chambers have been transformed into chapels,
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History in Poland
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with altars and statues sculpted from blocks of salt. St. Anthony’s Chapel is the oldest chapel, dating back to the 17th century.
Historic Centre Kraków
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Long considered the centre of artistic, economic and intellectual significance, Kraków is a truly remarkable city. Its cultural identity has remained intact for over one thousand years, and it has managed to escape the devastation of war that has blighted so many other Polish cities. Until the end of the 16th century it was the capital of Poland, the legacy of which can still be seen today; there many examples of 16th
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century Renaissance architecture, and there is a magnificent 14th century Gothic cathedral which adjoins the city’s Royal Castle. Of particular note is the Sigismund Chapel, which is considered to be one the most impressive works of Renaissance architecture in Central Europe.
Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp Auschwitz Birkenau, Oświęcim
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A creation based on Nazi ideology, it is very difficult to regard Auschwitz in terms of the cultural heritage of mankind. It remains, however, a part of our legacy, al-
Accession to UNESCO’s World Heritage List is considered to be a prestigious accolade
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though not as a cultural achievement, but as evidence of inhuman, cruel and methodical efforts to deny human dignity to groups considered inferior, contributing to their systematic murder. The preservation of Auschwitz serves as a warning to future generations. The camp was established in May 1940, initially as a concentration camp for Poles and later for Soviet prisoners of war. It later became a prison for a number of other nationalities, including thousands of Roma and Sinti. During the period between 1942 and 1944, it became the main mass extermination camp, where Jews were tortured and killed. In January 1945, the Nazis evacuated the camp, but they did not manage to destroy it. Barbed wire, platforms, barracks, gallows, gas chambers and cremation ovens were preserved, as well as the camp archives and the main gate with famous inscription that became a symbol: ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’. The personal effects of the victims segregated with precision, and terrifying in their authenticity, are often the only reminiscence of the people who lost their lives in the camp.
Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska Binarowa, Blizne, Dębno, Sękowa, Haczów, Lipnica
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The wooden churches of southern Małopolska, also known as ‘Lesser Poland’ represent the outstanding enclave of two cultures: Western Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox. They are exceptionally well preserved and are a classic example of the architecture of Gothic churches in the region during the 15th and 16th century in that they ate constructed using
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horizontal logs. These distinctly shaped structures blend harmoniously with the natural landscape, and their functional exteriors which protect against harsh winters conceal ornate and richly decorated interiors. The murals in the churches are particularly valuable, as they depict a variety of techniques and a high level of workmanship.
Medieval City Toruń
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The Medieval city of Toruń was founded by the Teutonic Order, which built a castle there in the 13th century as a base for the conquest and evangelisation of Prussia. It was granted city rights by the Grand
Master of the Order in 1233. Escaping damage during periods of conflict and war, Toruń is a remarkably well preserved town, which means that many original public buildings and private houses can still be visited today. Many of these buildings have retained their original features, such as ornate ceilings, wooden panels and mural paintings. One of the most famous houses in the city is the one that once belonged to Nicolaus Copernicus, the astronomer and mathematician who pioneered the notion that the sun was stationary in the centre of the universe and the earth revolved around it. Photography Courtesy of UNESCO
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UNESCO Accession to UNESCO’s World Heritage List is considered to be a prestigious accolade, and countries around the world are striving to have more of their historic sites added to it, as their tourism industries can benefit from the endorsement with such a highly regarded organisation. UNESCO is constantly considering new sites to add to its World Heritage List, as well as ensuring that current entries fulfill their obligations to ensuring that their sites will be around for generations of the future to enjoy. For further information, on UNESCO, visit www.unesco.org
UNESCO World Heritage Sites 1. Primeval Forest - Białowieża, 2. Historic Centre - Warsaw,
3. Centennial Hall - Wrocław, 4. Mannerist Calvary - Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, 5. Muskauer Park - German-Polish Border, 6. Churches of Peace - Jawor and Świdnica, 7. Old City - Zamość, 8. Castle of the Teutonic Order Malbork, 9. Salt Mine - Wieliczka, 10. Historic Centre - Kraków, 11. Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp Auschwitz Birkenau, Oświęcim, 12. Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska - Binarowa, Blizne, Dębno, Sękowa, Haczów, Lipnica 13. Medieval City - Toruń.
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Kraków’s Crazy Communist History Crazy Guides’ Communism Tours are not your average guided tour. With a little help from a ‘Crazy Guide’ driving around in a brightly painted Eastern bloc Trabant, visitors to Kraków are taken back in time to discover the city’s Communist history.
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“We try to make our customers understand and feel what the real Poland is about, and to show them things that cannot be found on postcards and in guide books”, explains ‘Crazy Mike’, founder of the now legendary tours of Kraków’s Communist past. Visitors are met from their hotel by a Crazy Guide, each of whom is carefully selected by Mike for their enthusiasm, their knowledge of history and their easy-going nature, and then driven around the purpose-built socialist district of Nowa Huta in a car from the Communist era. Each tour aims to give visitors to Kraków a unique insight into life in Communist Poland. Mike explains, “We almost always visit Nowa Huta, the so-called ‘Communist District’ which is kind of like a time-warp. We also take visitors to a milk bar canteen that hasn’t changed since the 1980s; this gives visitors a feel for how things used to be.” The Crazy Guides team has also recreated an apartment complete with authentic 1970s interiors – right down to every last detail.
Thanks to the guides’ in-depth knowledge of Nowa Huta and their enthusiasm for sharing the district’s history with visitors to Kraków, tours can be customised if there is somewhere that the visitor particularly wants to see. “Sometimes the guides take visitors off the beaten track and show them places like vegetable markets and tower block estates on the edge of the city that they probably would not have found on their own” says Mike. The idea of creating alternative tours of Kraków that brought the city’s Communist history to life came to Mike while he was studying law and working part time as a hotel receptionist. While he found the job dull, he enjoyed chatting to the guests, and would regularly have a beer with them during his night-shifts. One day, an Amercian couple asked if he could give them a two hour guided tour of the city. Mike turned up in his rather beaten-up Fiat 126, ready to take the couple around the city’s most
popular sights, but on realising that they already knew Kraków quite well, he decided to skip the usual tourist haunts and show them some of the city’s hidden gems that were a bit more off the beaten track. He drove them to the mounds and barrows on the edge of the city, and then took them to the bohemian bars of the Kazimierz Jewish district, before taking them back to his apartment and cooking them dinner. The couple thoroughly enjoyed themselves, and tipped him generously. As a bonus, Mike took them to Nowa Huta and filled them in on its crazy history behind the Socialist city. Over a few beers afterwards, they told Mike that they had enjoyed the tour so much that he simply had to set up his own tour company. So, with bags of energy and a large dollop of fun, he invested in an East German Trabant, made a few quirky modifications… and Crazy Guides was born, though nobody seems to remember where the name came from!
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Photography courtesy of Crazy Tours.
History in Poland
The Crazy Guides’ Communism Tours started out as an alternative tour to the run of the mill historic tours, but it has since become a popular fixture on most sightseeing itineraries. In recent years, the tour has been featured in the international media, including the BBC, Lonely Planet, Reuters, CNN Traveller, New York Times, Der Spiegel, La Republica among others. The original Trabant that Mike first bought is still going strong, although the fleet has grown to include Polish Fiats and Russia Ladas. Mike has since built up a team of energetic, young guides who are extremely knowledgeable about Communist history, and are passionate about sharing it with visitors to Kraków. Of course success breeds imitators, and there have been attempts – albeit unsuccessful ones – to copy the formula, however Mike maintains that the Crazy Guides’ Communism Tours are the original and still the best. Why? Mike concludes, “we have always done this for the love of it, for the good times, the memories and the smile on our clients’ faces.”
Communist Wheels Take part in the Crazy Guides’ Communism Tours, and you’ll find yourself cruising through Kraków in the legendary East German Trabant, which will seat up to three. One of the most ubiquitous vehicles during Communist times, it later became the focal point of U2’s Achtung Baby tour in the early 90’s. Or how about a vintage Polish Fiat 125 or a Soviet Lada 2107 instead? Both of these will seat up to four. Don’t worry if you are travelling with a larger group – the Polish bus from the 1970s will do the job. All vehicles meet EU standards.
Further Information For further information on Crazy Guides’ Communism Tours, visit www.crazyguides.com
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KRAKÓW
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History in Poland
The Warsaw Uprising Museum It’s a story of sacrifice and betrayal, national pride and pure evil. Ever since 2004, the Warsaw Uprising Museum has given tourists a new reason to visit the city. The fascination lies not only with the what of the Uprising itself, but with how the museum presents this history using hands-on displays, multi-sensory exhibitions, and the use of different media from letters to cinemas. Text by Barbara Zaragoza
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room has a table with colouring pens, paper, and a qualified childminder willing to take care of the younger visitors while adults roam through the exhibit. But this is no ordinary children’s room - it also contains teddy bears, helmets, and a sand barricade that remind us of how children also took part in the Uprising. Teenagers fought alongside adults while younger children served as mailmen, sewer guides, and carriers of the insurgent press. Once we’ve plunged into this extraordinary world, we enter the ground floor where a steel monument beckons us to lean into bullet holes and listen to gunfire, a heartbeat, and the songs sung on
1 August 1944 by 25,000 Polish Home Army soldiers who rose up against the Nazis in an attempt to take back Warsaw after four years of occupation. An initial elation hit the city and people burst forth with antiNazi communications. The museum doesn’t present exhibitions in a linear way. Instead walls, nooks, and rooms on three levels display radios, letters, and Polish mailboxes. On the first level, staff demonstrate how activists used different kinds of underground press machines to publish newspapers and posters calling on Poles to fight. In the middle of the museum, a large movie screen shows documentaries of how people lived during
that time. On the second level is a café, one of many established by the Pezetki ladies to provide respite for fighting men and women, and is where visitors can enjoy a selection of cakes and pies. Down the hall from the café lurks an oversized hammer and sickle. Polish insurgent leaders launched the Uprising with the assumption that Polish forces would fight alone for only a few days. The Soviet Army had crossed into Poland and, Home Army leaders reckoned, they would soon help liberate Warsaw. The Poles used mostly stolen arms and grenades that are today shown in display cases, their equipment making them no match against Nazi weapons, includ-
Photography by Shutterstock
ommissioned by the Mayor Warsaw to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Uprising, an old tram power plant was chosen to house the exhibition. The brick boiler from the early 1900’s still stands three stories high to one side of the museum. A team of three; a computer graphic artist, a modern designer and a stage designer took six months to build the exhibits in constant consultation with survivors. The result is a story that comes alive, attracting the old and the young, as well as an international audience thanks to the Polish and English language captions. To the immediate right of the museum’s entrance, the children’s
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History in Poland
Further Information
Photography by Barbara Zaragoza
The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79 00-844 Warsaw www.1944.pl
Warsaw’s Uprising Museum is housed in a former tram power plant (left). The Children’s Room (above) reminds visitors of the fact that children were also a pat of the Uprising. The Warsaw Uprising is also comemorated by the Warsaw Uprising Monument (opposite).
ing ‘cow missiles’ (heavy rocket launchers, which take their name from the characteristic sound that they make). When the Soviet Army arrived in Warsaw, they remained in the district of Praga across the Vistula River and refused to engage in the battle. The Nazis then launched a brutal campaign to kill every last remaining person in Warsaw and destroy the city. The most powerful part of the exhibition is a grey tent inside which a long and narrow table displays two sets of heavy glass tablets. The tablets contain protocols handwritten by Polish Red Cross officials after the war that document the Nazi slaughter of more than 40,000 civilians from the Wola. When it became clear to Varsovians that help wouldn’t come, civilians began to flee the city through the sewers. Next to the
tent, visitors can walk into a long chamber with pictures of Polish fighters along the brick walls and graffiti that says: ‘Watch out for Germans Above!’ A warning that Nazis crept above the manholes waiting to shoot people underfoot. In the basement, a black curtain hides the darkest side of the Uprising. Here, an exhibit contains metal flaps that cover and uncover the pictures of SS leaders. A niche off to the side from the main hall warns ‘Attention! Disturbing Scenes!’ Inside, a former German soldier on a cinema screen recalls the burning of civilians in Warsaw. After sixty days of fighting, 200,000 people lost their lives and the Nazis deported another 40,000 to slave labour camps in Germany. A Freedom Wall in the courtyard of the museum lists the names of those who died.
Once the city was cleared of people, the Nazis went street-bystreet, bombing and burning until almost nothing remained. Visitors can also take a glass elevator to the museum’s outlook point, where the Uprising’s legacy still blights the city. Not one building from before the war is discernable. The Palace of Culture stretches to the sky, reminding Varsovians that after the Nazis, Stalin introduced his rebuilding program. Emotional and human, the museum doesn’t give the visitor an encyclopedic knowledge of what happened, but rather an insight into daily life at that time. With so much to explore, it is no wonder that more than one hundred thousand visitors have already passed through. Unlike other sightseeing destinations, the Warsaw Uprising Museum turns history into an activity.
The Warsaw Uprising Starting on 1 August 1944, the Warsaw Uprising was the bloody struggle by the Polish Home Army to liberate Warsaw from Nazi Occupation during World War II. With the Soviet Army approaching the city, it was only intended to last for a few days; however the Soviet advance was halted on the edge of the city. The struggle against the German forces continued for 63 days until the Polish army surrendered on 3 October 1944. For further information on the Warsaw Uprising, visit www.warsawuprising.com
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WARSAW
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Top 10 Lower Silesia Discover the land of romantic castles and palaces, underground cities and magnificent mountain landscapes. There are lots of fascinating places to visit in Lower Silesia. Compiled by Agata Zborowska
Rock Climbing Sudeten Mountains Health Spa Resorts Lower Silesia has been a popular spa destination for centuries. There are several spa towns in the region, including Kudowa-Zdrój, Polanica Zdrój and Świeradów Zdrój, where you can find spa resorts offering a complete range of treatments. They are also a great place to relax and enjoy gentle walks in the fresh air.
Fortress Kłodzko Dating back to the 14th century, the fortress at Kłodzko is a unique fortification complex with a labyrinth-like network of underground chambers, dungeons and passages. The charming town of Kłodzko also has a system of underground tunnels, which were originally built by local merchants, but is now part of a sightseeing tour. For further information, visit www.klodzko.pl
Farm Life Agritourism If you are weary of city life, why not head to one of Lower Silesia’s 450 agritourism farms, where visitors can get close to nature and learn more about local produce. It is also a great opportunity for children to meet farm animals. For further information, visit www.agroturystyka.ig.pl
Rock climbing enthusiasts flock to the Sudeten Mountains, where there are many challenging rock formations set against breath-taking scenery. There are several climbing schools in the region, where experienced guides show climbers the best places to ascend and make sure that safety procedures are carefully followed. For further information, visit www.sudety.info.pl
Książ Castle Pearl of Lower Silesia With its beautiful location and ornate interior, it is no wonder that Książ Castle is often described as the ‘Pearl of Lower Silesia’. Wander through rooms that have been carefully restored in the period style, explore the landscaped grounds and discover the underground passages that were built by the Nazis during World War II. For further information, visit www.ksiaz.walbrzych.pl
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Top 10 Lower Silesia
Skull Chapel Czermna Yes – you read it right! The chapel in Czermna is a rather special visitor attraction, as the walls and ceilings are covered with over three thousand human skulls. The chapel was created in 1776 when the town’s priest discovered the bones of local people. Guaranteed to raise the hairs on the back of your neck… For further information, visit www.czermna.pl
Underground Fortifications World War II Learn more about the impact of World War II on Lower Silesia by visiting the underground Complex of Osówka, an expansive network of concrete tunnels, which was created by the Nazis– many believe that the complex was Adolf Hitler’s headquarters. For further information, visit www.osowka.pl
Lubiąż Monastery Lubiąż Monastery dates back to the 13th century when Cistercian monks arrived in the area and established their first church. The size of the monastery is really quite impressive – it is over two and a half times the size of the famous Wawel Castle in Kraków. Look out for the murals, many of which were painted in the 17th and 18th centuries – a definite must-see for history enthusiasts. For further information, visit www.lubiaz.pl
Winter Sports Sudeten Mountains Whether you are into down-hill skiing, or prefer cross-country, the Sudeten Mountains make an affordable alternative to better known winter sports resorts in Europe. Lower Silesia’s ski resorts are well-maintained, have great facilities and cater for all abilities. Warm up with a hot apple strudel and a hot chocolate after a day on the slopes. For further information, visit www.sudety.info.pl
Gold Mine Złoty Stok More than just a gold mine, Złoty Stok is a great day out for the whole family. Take a tour around the mine in a small train, have a go at panning for gold, then explore the deeper passages of the mine in a boat and experience the underground waterfall – the only one of its kind in Poland. For further information, visit www.kopalniazlota.pl
Photography Credits 1. Shutterstock 2. Shutterstock 3. Shutterstock 4. Shutterstock 5. Shutterstock 6. Shutterstock 7. Shutterstock 8. Borough of Głuszyca 9. Shutterstock 10. Stowarzyszenie Lubiąż
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Gdańsk The Amber City Poland’s largest seaport, lying close to the country’s wonderful northern beaches, Gdańsk is a complex and intriguing city. Long periods of Polish rule mixed with spells of German control and free city status have given the port a unique past. Today it enjoys its status as a top tourist destination and Poland’s gateway to the Baltic. Text by Aiden Brisland
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famous Hanseatic port, Gdańsk has a rich history extending back over 1,000 years. Today it is Poland’s fourth largest city, capital of the Pomeranian region and principal seaport, lying on the southern edge of the Baltic Sea’s Gdańsk Bay. The city forms part of a large conurbation with the popular spa town of Sopot
and the seaside resort of Gdynia, which together make up a metropolitan area known as the Tri-city or ‘Trójmiasto’, with a population of over 800,000. The city’s famous name is thought to originate from the Gdania river, the original name of the Motława branch on which the city is situated today. In common with many other Central European cities, Gdańsk has had many different names throughout its history. Known as Gyddanyzc, Kdanzk and Danceke among others in years gone by, perhaps the best-know alternate name for the city is the Germanic version, Danzig. Used by the German population as well as English speakers until the end of World War II, the city is once again known by its Polish name. But don’t be con-
fused by this startlingly regular change of name, it simply reflects the city’s rich past and culturally diverse make-up. Gdańsk was founded in the 980s, when a fort was built on the site that the city now occupies and in 1997 it celebrated its millennial anniversary, commemorating the day in 997 when Saint Adalbert of Prague baptized the inhabitants of the settlement on behalf of Boleslaw the Brave of Poland. Since that day in 997, Gdańsk has endured a turbulent and at times violent existence. The city’s control has passed from one power base to another over the years from Poland to the Teutonic Knights, to the Prussians and Germans and back again. Following World War I, the newly independent Poland hoped
that Gdańsk and its harbour would be placed under Polish sovereignty. However, in 1919 a census determined that the city’s population was 98 per cent German, and under the terms of the Treaty of Versailles it became the Free City of Danzig – an independent city state with its external affairs largely under Polish control. The Free City had its own constitution, national anthem, parliament and government. It even issued its own stamps and currency. All of that came to an end on 1 September 1939, when Nazi warships began to bombard the city, signalling the start of World War II. The first shots of the war were fired at Westerplatte by the SS Schleswig-Holstein and stiff Polish resistance was gradually worn down, plunging Europe
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Photography by Shutterstock
Tri-City: Truly Unique
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Tri-City: Truly Unique
Gdańsk at a Glance 997 - belonged to Poland 1308 - 1454 belonged to the territory of the Teutonic Order 1454 - 1466 Thirteen Years’ War 1466 - 1793 belonged to Poland 1793 - 1805 belonged to Prussia 1807 - 1814 was a free city 1815 - 1871 belonged to Prussia 1871 - 1918 belonged to Imperial Germany 1918 - 1939 was a free city 1939 - 1945 belonged to Nazi Germany
Tri City: Essential Facts Gdynia SOPOT Gdańsk
Tri City is the Conurbation that comprises of Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot. Population approximately 750, 000 Famous Figures: Lech Wałęsa, Jan Heweliusz, Daniel Fahrenheit Total Area of Tri City: 414 km² Key Industries: There are two maritime ports; Gdańsk and Gdynia with regular ferry connections. Yacht-building, energy, electronics, financial services, telecommunications, fisheries and fish-processing.
Average Rainfall:
Average Temperature:
Winter 2009: 36.6 mm Spring 2009: 46.6 mm Summer 2009: 48.3 mm Autumn 2008: 43.4 mm
Winter 2009: 0.6 ºC Spring 2009: 11.3 ºC Summer 2009: 17 ºC Autumn 2008: 5.6 ºC
Educational Institutions: 24 universities, colleges and academies Languages spoken: Polish is the official language, English is widely spoken by the younger generation. Russian is spoken by older people.
Visitor Information Gdańsk is part of the Trójmiasto, or Tri-City, a conurbation that also includes the coastal towns of Gdynia and Sopot. Gdynia is a port that has expended in recent years, and now offers its visitors excellent shopping and entertainment. Sopot is a spa town which is also worth visiting. Both resorts are particularly popular during the summer months, as holidaymakers head to the coast. Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot are served by an urban rail service, which provides a frequent connection between the three. To find out more things to see and do in Tri-City, visit www. shopandsee.eu
into over five years of war. A monument paying tribute to the fallen now stands on the windswept headland overlooking the spot where it all began. But despite – or perhaps because of – so many changes in the controlling elite, the city grew to become one of the Baltic’s principal ports and indeed much of its modern history revolves around the docks. In 1970, Gdańsk was the scene of anti-regime demonstrations which led to the downfall of Poland’s communist leader Władysław Gomułka, and 10 years later the Solidarity trade union movement or Solidarność was born in the city’s shipyards. The movement’s opposition to the Communist regime led to the end of Communist Party rule in 1989, and sparked
a series of protests that successfully overturned the Communist governments of the former Soviet bloc. Solidarity’s leader, Lech Wałęsa became Poland’s President in 1990 and Gdańsk native Donald Tusk became the country’s Prime Minister in 2007.
Sights
Gdańsk’s main sights owe much to the renaissance period and influence of the Hanseatic League, an alliance of trading cities and guilds that established and maintained a trade monopoly along the coast of Northern Europe, from the Baltic to the North Sea and inland, between the 13th and 17th centuries. The Hanse merchants and traders were wealthy men and wasted no time in displaying their opulence to others, constructing
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Picture Courtesy of the City of Gdańsk
fine town houses and wonderful squares. Most of the city’s tourist attractions lie along Long Street and Long Market, a pedestrian thoroughfare that is known as the Royal Way and serves as the cultural heart of Gdańsk. Flanked by beautifully reconstructed 17th century-style buildings, the route is guarded at both ends by elaborate city gates and takes you past St Mary’s Church – the largest brick church in the world, the reconstructed medieval Town Hall, the menacing Torture Hall and Neptune’s fountain, a renaissance masterpiece dating from 1617. Passing through the city’s Green Gate at the end of Long Street, you’ll find yourself on the banks of the Motlawa River. Gdańsk’s river front is a picture postcard scene
of life in this port city, but it’s the medieval harbour crane that dominates the scene. Europe’s oldest crane, it was built over 550 years ago and is a reminder of the city’s close relationship with the sea. Also along the banks of the river, you can treat yourself to some of the city’s famous culinary delights and seafood specialities. Thanks to Gdańsk’s history as a melting put for a number of cultures, it has led to the city gaining a deserved reputation for its food, with influences from across Europe and further afield. Traditional regional specialities include Kashubian potato pancakes served with sugar, cream or honey; Kashubian potato pâté made from a recipe dating back to the 18th century; Pomorskie-style duck stuffed with a pork filling; and Debrzno Sweet
Like many of Poland’s fine cities, Gdańsk boasts a cultural heritage par excellence.
String or the tasty Cherry Crescent Rolls for visitors with a sweet tooth. A walk to the northern edge of Gdańsk’s Old Town is also well worth the visit, because it’s here you’ll find the Gdańsk Shipyards. Formerly known as the Lenin Shipyards, the site is where the workers’ Solidarity uprising began in the 1970s, a movement that finally won governmental recognition despite severe persecution of its members. The workers’ struggle is commemorated with a huge monument and smaller plaques placed around the courtyard by the shipyard gates. But Gdańsk isn’t all history, monuments and impressive buildings. Lying just 10 miles from the city centre, the spa town of Sopot makes for a great coastal www.discoverpl.com
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How to Get There By Air
There are direct flights to Gdańsk from the following airports in the United Kingdom and Ireland: Birmingham, Cork, Doncaster-Sheffield, Dublin, Glasgow-Prestwick, Liverpool, Luton, and Stansted. A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost in the region of PLN 50 (approx. GB£ 10), alternatively there is the Airport Shuttle, which will transport you to the city centre for €4 (approx. GB£ 3.50) per person. For further information, see www.gdanskshuttle.com
By Train
If you plan to arrive by train, the chances are that you will be arriving at Gdańsk Główny, the main train station, which is very close to the Old Town. The station and many of its facilities are open 24 hours. For further information about rail travel in Poland in English, visit www.polrail.com
By Bus The main bus station in Gdańsk is located close to the train station. Information and timetables for bus routes - both national and international can be found on www.pks.gdansk.pl which provides information in both English and German.
By Sea
break. The Baltic’s beaches are a world away from the often tacky Mediterranean resorts and Sopot attracts thousands of visitors every year to bathe in its waters, take time out from the hustle and bustle and relax in the great outdoors. And if you’re in the mood for a stroll by the seaside, you can always walk to the end of Europe’s oldest wooden pier.
Culture
Travelling to Gdańsk from Sweden? There is a ferry between Nynäshamn (approximately 60 km south of Stockholm) and Nowy Port, which is roughly 7km north of Gdańsk. There are buses from the ferry terminal, though a taxi is the most direct route, and should take approximately 20 minutes and should set you back around PLN 20 (approx. GB£ 4). If you are driving to the city centre from the ferry terminal, simply follow the signs for ‘centrum’. For information on timetables, see www.polferries.pl
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Like many of Poland’s fine cities, Gdańsk boasts a cultural heritage par excellence. Its rich history of Polish, German and self rule together with a strong Hanseatic influence have invested the city with a rich tapestry of cultural highlights. But far from looking to the past, Gdańsk is keen to embrace the future.
The city will welcome thousands of visitors in summer 2012 when the European Football Championships roll into town. Poland is a joint host for the tournament along with the Ukraine, and Gdańsk is building a new 44,000 capacity Baltic Arena. Construction on the project began in 2008 and the finished design will represent amber, a precious resin that has long been extracted along the Baltic coast. Away from the lure of football and 2012, the city’s calendar is packed with music, theatre and maritime events and - come rain or shine - there’s always plenty to do in the Tri-city area. International music stars often wow audiences in the city while classical concerts are par for the course during the Gdańsk Musical Summer. Other
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THE WHITE LILY is the perfect place for both work and leisure, an ideal hideaway for those who love peace and quiet and who appreciate professional service. In our carefully designed interiors you will find everything you need to feel comfortable and secure.
The White Lily is situated in a terrace of apartment-houses: a perfect example of the Old Town’s unique atmosphere and character. It is located close to The Green Gate, one of the prettiest sights in town, between the Old and the New River Motlawa, in the vicinity of Gdansk Marina.
Picture Courtesy of the City of Gdańsk
WILLA BIAŁA LILIA 80-750 Gdańsk, ul. Spichrzowa 16, tel. (+48 58) 301 70 74, fax (+48 58) 320 14 73, www.bialalilia.pl • e-mail: bialalilia@bialalilia.pl
annual events include the International Festival of Street Theatre – a surprising, comical, and often surreal event where the lines between actor and audience are blurred, and Sail Gdańsk which forms part of an international Baltic regatta
44, 000 the proposed capacity of the Baltic Arena
and sees the city’s bay packed with magnificent sailing ships. And for visitors interested in history, St Dominic’s Fair is a must. One of the most prestigious events in Gdańsk, it stretches all the way back to 1260, when Pope Alexander IV granted the Dominican monks the right to hold a fair in the city. It’s one of the largest events of its kind in Europe and for 23 days from the last Saturday in July the city plays host to merchants and artisans from all over Europe. A city that enjoys a largely unique history in Europe and reflects its rich past with aplomb, Gdańsk is a wonderful destination for anyone looking to relax, unwind and take in the sights of one of Poland’s most impressive cities.
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Spending Time in Gdańsk Whether you’re in Gdańsk on business or for pleasure, we’ve picked out some of the best places to spend your time. See the sights and take time out to discover the highlights of the city. 1.
The Long Market Old Town
Długi Targ (Long Market) is a great place to take in the essence of Gdańsk. Not only is it where locals and visitors alike meet up in the many cafés, pubs and restaurants, it is also where you’ll find some of the city’s most noteworthy buildings. Look up and admire the ornate detail on the façades of buildings such as the City Hall, the Renaissance Ferber’s House, which dates back to 1560, Renaissance Lion’s Castle from 1569, and Schuman’s House with the statue of Zeus at the top.
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The Neptune Fountain
One of Gdańsk’s most iconic statues can also be found on Długi Targ. Created in 1615, the Neptune Fountain pays homage to the city’s maritime heritage. Marvel at the detail, including the magnificent fencing with gold crests of Gdańsk and Polish eagles that surround it. The best views can be seen from the side and the front.
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Long Bridge
The perfect place for a stroll, the Long Bridge is a long promenade along the banks of the Motława River. You can break up your stroll by stopping for a drink or a
bite to eat at waterside cafés and restaurants, or stop to look in one of the many boutiques selling amber jewellery. Also look out for Gothic water gates such as the Krowia Gate dating back to the 14th century, the Chlebnicka Gate from the 15th century, St. Mary’s Gate from the 15th century, and the Holy Spirit Gate which was reconstructed in the 1990s. The Long Bridge was destroyed in 1945, however it has now been restored to its former glory.
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The Medieval Crane
This imposing structure is the largest Medieval port crane in Europe. Dating back to 1442, the crane has served as a city gate, as well as being used to unload ships. The mechanism that enabled the crane to lift up to 5 tons of goods is quite a feat of engineering – to find out how it works, go inside to the visitors’ centre where everything is explained.
5.
St. Mary’s Basilica.
St Mary’s Basilica is the largest brick-built church in Europe, and the largest church in Europe. Be amazed by the spacious interior of this Gothic style church, and if you have the energy, climb the 400 stairs to the top of the tower for a marvellous view of the city.
6.
Mariacka Street.
Looking for somewhere to pick up some gifts, or souvenirs of your visit to Gdańsk? Head for Mariacka Street, where you can browse the many amber galleries along this narrow, atmospheric street. Once you’ve made your purchases, hunt out a small café or bar further along the street, or in one of the adjacent alleyways.
ence. The 18 day long strike, in 1980, which was finished on 31 August by concluding agreements between the workers on strike and the authorities, became a symbolic date signifying the beginning of the end of communism in Europe. Those events started the whole process of a number of nations liberating from the communist rule. For further information, visit www.fcs.org.pl
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The Amber Museum
Due the natural occurrence of amber along the Baltic Coast, Gdańsk has long been known as the amber capital of the world. Come and learn more about amber and its history, the role that it has played in Pomerania over the years – and of course marvel at the beautiful pieces on display. For further information, visit www.mhmg.gda.pl/bursztyn
8.
Solidarity Centre Foundation ‘Roads to Freedom’ Exhibition
The ‘Roads to Freedom’ exhibition concentrates on the history of Poland between 1956 and 1989. ‘Solidarność’, a political and social movement, was originated at the former Lenin Shipyard in Gdańsk in 1980. This movement gave Polish society hope of independ-
The Baltic Gallery
The Baltic Gallery is the largest shopping centre in Pomerania. Modern and spacious, it contains over 200 of Poland’s finest shops and showrooms. The ultimate retail experience! The centre also includes 15 restaurants and 1100 parking spaces. For further information, visit www.galeriabaltycka.pl
10.
Gdańsk Golf & Country Club
Whatever your handicap, why not head out of the city and play a round at Gdańsk Golf & Country Club, Postołowo? Beautifully laid out among hills and lakes with wide fairways and very large greens, the course is a true test of golf for all standards of players. For further information, visit www.golf.com.pl
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Picture Courtesy of the City of Gdansk
Tri-City: Truly Unique
Pomerania is one of the enchanting regions of Poland, and Tri-City, the conurbation that comprises of Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia is particularly special. The three cities that make up Tri-City are indeed part of the same metropolitain area, yet each has its own individual character. Text by Weronika Bajduszewska
W
hen it comes to locations for business meetings and conferences in Poland, Tri-City really takes some beating. There are direct flights from Gdańsk’s Lech Wałęsa International Airport to almost 30 European cities, including international hubs such as Frankfurt and Warsaw, making it completely accessible. As Gdańsk gears up for the UEFA 2012 European Football Championships, a new passenger terminal that will serve up to five million visitors per year is set to open next year. The media spotlight is often on Tri-City, and specialist business travel firms such as Konsultant are hoping that this will encourage more and more firms to hold their conferences, meetings and training seminars there: As the birthplace of the Solidarity movement and the hometown of Lech Wałę36 20.indd 36
sa, the winner of the Nobel Peace Prize, Gdańsk has already secured a place in the world’s consciousness. In 2008, a ceremony that marked the 25th anniversary of Wałęsa’s Nobel Prize was attended by a number of prominent figures, including the Dalai Lama, Jose Manuel Barroso, President of the European Commission, and President Nicholas Sarkozy of France. Another event that attracted world leaders to Tri-City was the 70th anniversary of World War II. A ceremony was held in Westerplatte where war broke out on 1 September 1939, and was attended by the German Chancellor, Angela Merkel, Russian President, Vladimir Putin and the Prime Minister of Ukraine, Yulia Tymoshenko. Regularly advertised as being ‘a spa bursting with life,’ Sopot is a cultural hot-spot and architectural
gem. It is a popular resort that offers a wide range of activities, including riding in one of Europe’s largest hippodromes, where experienced instructors can teach even the most nervous of novices to trot in less than an hour. There are also numerous spa centres, where guests can relax, enjoy therapeutic treatments and make the most of the comfortable surroundings. ‘Open city for open people’ is Gdynia’s promotional slogan. The youngest member of the Tri-City metropolis, it is a town that is experiencing dynamic growth. Gdynia has received numerous awards, including the first place in Forbes magazine’s categories for ‘most attractive cities for business’, and ‘foreign investors’ choice’. Aside from business and investment, Gdynia is the venue for one of Poland’s largest annual music festivals, the
Heineken Open’er, which brings together 60, 000 music fans from over 30 countries. Gydnia was also one of the hosts of the Cutty Sark Tall Ship Race 2009. For anyone planning a conference or corporate event, the selection of hotel accommodation available is a crucial factor in determining the destination. Tri-City has 57 hotels which contain enough beds for 7, 267 beds (source: Gdańsk Tourist Organisation, 17 June 2009), and differ in location, price-bracket and size. The range of conference facilities also range from basic and budget-friendly to impressive venues with the latest in audio visual equipment. Organisers can also take their pick from historic venues overlooking the iconic Neptune statue on Gdańsk’s Długi Targ street, or directly on the coast, at Tri-City’s Landscape
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Park. The region is constantly attracting large name hotel chains, and it is estimated that Tri-City will be able to accommodate more than 20, 000 visitors by 2012. In addition to good quality hotel accommodation, dedicated congress centres are emerging in Tri-City. This summer, the Sheraton Sopot Hotel, Conference Centre & Spa opened its doors, right next to the resort’s ever-popular pier – the longest wooden pier in Europe. This latest addition to TriCity’s convention offering features ten professional suites that can be adapted to event organisers’ needs and provides over 4, 000m² of places to meet. “Although our conference centre was launched only recently, we have already organised a large number of business events. Our booking calendar for 2010 is nearly full, and we are now accepting reservations for 2011 and even 2012,” explained Agnieszka Najberek, Sales and Marketing Director at the Sheraton Sopot Hotel, Conference Centre & Spa. Conferences, seminars and training courses always create opportunities for sight-seeing. Thankfully Tri-City has plenty to offer delegates looking to take a break from business. A tour of the Royal Route, an organ concert in the impressive Oliwa Cathedral, and night tours of Malbork Castle are just some of the attractions that can be added to a conference programme, as can more active pursuits, such as windsurfing and sailing. A true wonder of nature, amber occurs naturally in the region, and small pieces can be found on local beaches. The Amber Museum in Gdańsk is a popular stop for delegates en route to hunting out beautiful pieces of jewellery in the city’s boutiques and galleries. For some delegates, a conference goes hand in hand with a round of golf. Poland might not seem like an obvious place to play golf, however the sport is rapidly gaining momentum. Gdańsk Golf & Country Club in Postołowo is an 18 hole championship course that is set in peaceful surroundings and is possibly the longest par 72 courses in Europe – it is hardly surprising that it was voted as the best golf course in Poland by Golf Digest. The Sierra Golf Course is not far away either, in nearby Łętkowice. Both courses are popular with visitors and locals alike, and novices can also enroll in the golf academy which is open to both private and corporate players. During a three-hour session,
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they will learn the basic swings, rules and course etiquette: in short, everything they need to get started in this amazing sport. Less experienced players can also play rounds in the Academy’s 6-hole course. The process of organising a convention, a conference or a training course can be very timeconsuming. In order to ensure that services offered in the city meet the highest possible standards, the Gdańsk Convention Bureau which promotes the development of business tourism in the region, created the Professional Conference Organiser (PCO) certificate. “A candidate has to meet a number of formal and legal requirements to receive a PCO Certificate. The firm has to be enrolled in the Register of Tourism Organisers and Agents in the Marshal’s Office, it has to produce satisfactory references from clients and document its experience in organising large events. Konsultant was the first firm to be awarded this certificate, and we hope that its success will encourage other business event organisers bring their performance up to the required level,” explained Anna Górska, President of the Gdańsk Tourist Organisation, during the certification ceremony.
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About the Author Weronika Bajduszewska is the DP_366.indd Tourism Manager of Konsultant, a corporate travel firm which takes care of every last detail on behalf of visitors arriving in Poland. Konsultant’s services include making hotel reservations, arranging conference facilities, booking airport transfers and transportation, providing interpreters and translators and arranging gala dinners and sight-seeing excursions. For further information, visit www.spotkaniafirm.pl
Map Gdynia SOPOT Gdańsk
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Apartments in Sopot
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www.victus-sopot.pl Victus Apartments are located in the centre of Sopot, within easy reach of the main attractions, such as the cafés, bars and restaurants on the main street and the seafront, with Europe’s longest wooden pier. Whether you are in Sopot on business or enjoying a leisure break, Victus Apartments offer excellent value on long and short stays – up to 30% cheaper than other apartments of a similar standard in Sopot. As well as providing luxury accommodation, Victus Apartments also offers an event management service – whether you are planning a corporate event, or want to celebrate a special event in style. To experience sophisticated flavours of Italian cuisine we reccomend Tivoli Restaurant, one of the best in the Tricity.
Make yourself at home at Victus Apartments. Victus SC, 1/2 Dworcowa Street, 81-704 Sopot Ph. +48 58 710 89 17. Mob. +48 663 009 000 www.discoverpl.com
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Somewhere to Stay
Photograph courtesy of Hotel Gdańsk
Whether you are an aficionado of luxury hotels, or prefer to make yourself at home in an historic town-house, there is no shortage of places to stay in Gdańsk, whatever your budget or taste.
With its stunning views of the city’s marina, which are particularly impressive at sunset, Hotel Gdańsk is an historic granary warehouse that has only recently been converted into a four-star hotel with comfortable rooms and a restaurant and microbrewery that is popular with locals and visitors alike – make sure that you try at least one of the three different types of beer that are brewed on the premises. Spacious rooms decorated in warm shades of gold, crimson, orange and brown provide the perfect place to relax and unwind, whether you’ve spent all day in business meetings or have been on your feet all day, sightseeing and shopping. Every room is equipped with en suite facilities, satellite television, wireless internet access, safe, mini-bar hairdryer and complimentary slippers. For further information, visit www. hotelgdansk.com.pl Another four-star hotel along the waterfront is the Hotel Hanza, a tall, brick-bulit townhouse that is so typical of the Old Town. When it comes to the hotel’s interior, attention to detail is evident – the hotel’s 7 suites, 17 single rooms and 36 double rooms are stylishly modern, yet completely in harmony with the building’s historic façade and surroundings. Rooms are equipped with
the type of facilities that one would expect of a four star hotel, including en suite facilities, satellite television, wireless internet access, mini-bar and hairdryer. Hotel Hanza has welcomed many well-known figures from world leaders to Hollywood film directors. For further information, visit www.hanza-hotel.com.pl Why not stay in Sopot? From the outside, you’d never suspect that Hotel La La La was anything out of the ordinary, but step inside and you enter a treasure-trove of kitsch golden cats, origami figures and statues of Indian gods and goddesses. From the moment you enter Hotel La La La, you know that your stay will be anything but dull. Seven rooms tell seven stories, as seven different artists have let their imagination run riot, making the most of bold murals, stylish furniture and quirky finishing touches, such as faux fur wallpaper and chandeliers. Hotel La La La is more than somewhere to stay however; its bistro food and an extensive wine-list is popular with locals in the know. For further information, visit www.lala.lu Scandic Gdańsk makes a great base for exploring Gdańsk and the surrounding region, as it
is located in the heart of the city, and just a stone’s throw away from the main railway station. Scandic Gdańsk provides everything that you could possibly need on a visit to the city, including en suite facilities, satellite television, wireless internet access, mini-bar, tea and coffee making facilities and hairdryer. There is also secure parking next to the hotel and – for the more active – a fitness centre, which comprises of a fitness centre and sauna. Scandic Gdańsk is also a great venue for conferences, from small seminars and training sessions to much larger gatherings. For further information, visit www.scandichotels.com Willa Biała Lilia, which means ‘White Lily Villa’ is a delightful townhouse close to the marina, which makes an excellent base for exploring the city. Rooms have been designed with comfort in mind, and with double rooms starting at PLN 250 (approx. GB£ 50), Willa Biała Lilia can definitely be described as affordable luxury. For further information, visit www.bialalilia.pl
If you want to get away from it all, but still have the benefits of a big city nearby, Villa Angela is the perfect solution. Set in a quiet district of Gdańsk, a short taxi ride from the Old Town, Villa Angela is an elegant townhouse which is now a beautifully furnished boutique hotel. Attention to detail is evident throughout the hotel, and staff are dedicated to making sure that guests enjoy a relaxing stay. Look out for regular seasonal discounts and special offers. For further information, visit www.villaangela.pl
Want to feel more like a local? Why not rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel? There are plenty of short-term lets available in the city. Patio Apartments has a range of different places to stay in the Old Town, and can even arrange breakfast for you as well as guided tours of the city. For further information, see www.patio.gda.pl. Alternatively, Apartament Gdańsk has a selection of modern yet homely studio and 2 bedroom apartments in the Old Town. For further information, visit www. apartamentygdansk.com Staying in the heart of the city, at the centre of all the action often means having to compromise on space, but not so at the Amber Apartment on the Długi Targ. This luxury apartment with high ceilings and a distinctly art nouveau style interior, has two spacious bedrooms and is fully equipped – whether you’re staying for two nights or two months. For further information, visit www. amberapartament.pl If you’re traveling with family or a group of friends and need somewhere with a bit more room than the average city apartment, Royal Apartments has a selection of properties available to rent, including some palatial pads in central Gdańsk and Sopot that are suitable for up to six people. For further information, see www. royal-apartments.pl If you like the flexibility and freedom of a self-catering apartment, but would rather have some of the facilities of a hotel, Kobza Haus, just between the Długi Targ and the Green Gate, is just the ticket: 11 individual self-catering units under one roof, Kobza Haus aims to offer its guests the best of both worlds. For further information, visit www.kobza.pl
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Gdańsk - The Amber City
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Tri-City: Truly Unique
Somewhere to Eat
Photography by Shutterstock
Whether you fancy dining out in style, or grabbing a quick bite to eat in laidback surroundings, Gdańsk’s got it all!
You can always be sure of fresh fish in Gdańsk – and where better to enjoy it, than at one of the waterside restaurants, overlooking the Motława canal? Expect to be spoilt for choice at Tawerna, where you can sample dishes such as pike-perch steamed and served on a bed of leeks and mushrooms, sole baked with shrimps and mozzarella cheese, and filet of eel in dill and cucumber sauce. Don’t worry if you don’t eat fish, as there are plenty of other options, including pork, duck and vegetable dishes. For further information, visit www.tawerna.pl
Make sure that you don’t miss the entrance to Velevetka, which is located in a bright and cosy cellar just off the Długi Targ, because you really wouldn’t want to miss out on the flavoursome and hearty dishes that are served there. Much of the menu is inspired by Kashubia, a part of Pomerania, just outside of Gdańsk, so you can expect dishes such as herrings, mushrooms, goose and yellow turnip soup on the menu. For further information, visit www. velevetka.pl
where the menu features dishes such as herring with apples in cream, borsch, traditional Polish sour rye soup, and Polish pork knuckles with sauerkraut cabbage and potatoes served with thyme and mustard sauce. Zeppelin doesn’t limit itself to local fare though, as Spanish tapas, Italian pasta and a Swedish buffet is also available. For further information, visit www.zeppelin.gdansk.pl
With breath-taking views of the waterfront, and an extensive menu comprising of local fish dishes and international cuisine, it is no wonder that the restaurant at Hotel Gdańsk is popular with both locals and visitors. The restaurant is split over two levels, with more formal dining in the stylish restaurant on the upper floor, and a more relaxed atmosphere in the microbrewery bar on the ground floor. For further information, visit www.hotelgdansk.com.pl
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For a relaxed night out with friends or colleagues, you can never go wrong with a pizza. At Napoli on Długi Targ, you can indulge in one of 30 different types of pizza, piled high with lots of tasty toppings. There is also an extensive range of pasta and seafood dishes too. Dine al fresco and watch the world go by. For further information, visit www.napoli.pl
Vegetarians needn’t feel left out, as there is a branch of the popular vegetarian chain, Green Way right in the heart of the city, on the Długi Targ. Expect hearty meat-free fare, including Indian-inspired koftas, spicy Mexican-style burritos and a selection of salads that are more or less a meal in themselves in informal surroundings. For further information, visit www.greenway.pl
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Gdańsk - The Amber City
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Tri-City: Truly Unique
“Tri-City is the Complete Package, Offering Something for Everyone” Mieczysław Struk, the Vice-Marshal of Pomerania and Honorable President of the Pomeranian Tourist Board talks exclusively to Discover Poland. For somebody who has never visited Tri-City before, please describe its essence - for instance what is the most striking feature of the conurbation?
Tri-City surprises everyone with its diversity. On one hand, you have Gdańsk, the thousand -year-old, Hanseatic port and, the cradle of the Solidarity movement, then there is Sopot, the spa resort that is full of life, and last – but by no means least – there is Gdynia, a young port that is thriving as a business centre. Tri-City is the complete package, offering something for everyone, including cultural, sports and leisure activities. Its exceptional location on the Gulf of Gdańsk, with two marinas in Gdynia and Gdańsk, provides endless opportunities for water sports. When it comes to culture, there is an abundance of activities, including the Shakespeare Festival, the annual Film Festival, the Heineken Open’er, the Dominican Fair and festival of Song. Tri-City welcomes everyone, especially its younger visitors – Aqua Park and the Kolibki Adventure Park are perfect for children. Since joining the European Union in 2004, have businesses in Tri-City
witnessed an increase in trade with countries such as the United Kingdom and Ireland?
Poland has been in the European Union for just five years, and Tri-City has witnessed some dynamic development during this time. With regard to cooperation with Great Britain and Ireland, direct air links were initially opened to serve migrant workers, however each year, the number of tourists and business travellers are increasing. In 2008, Gdańsk’s Lech Wałęsa Airport served 1.95 million passengers. Many British and Irish companies, such as Fineos and Kainos Software have set up operations in Tri-City. Please tell us about any interesting projects or developments that are taking place in Tri-City, for instance are there any parts being regenerated?
Tri-City has undergone extensive development in recent years. This trend has been supported by EU funds, which have enabled some rather ambitious projects. We are also focusing on the transport infrastructure and the creation of conditions for business development. In addition to this, there are plans to improve the facilities that benefit culture and
tourism – in fact we cannot talk about new developments without mentioning the Shakespeare Theatre; the newly constructed theatre is an educational centre and conference venue as well, of course, as a place of culture and entertainment. The new Baltic Arena in Gdańsk is also being built especially for the UEFA 2012 Football
1.95 mln
the number of passengers who used Gdańsk’s Lech Wałesa Airport in 2008
Championships, and there are also new sports facilities in both Gdynia and Sopot. Gdańsk will be one of the host cities in the UEFA Euro 2012 – how is the city planning on making the most of the media spotlight?
It is a little early to start the promotional activity – let’s wait first for the World Cup in South Africa next year. Let’s not forget that Gdańsk, like Warsaw and Kraków, is one of Poland’s most popular cities with visitors to Poland, and we receive millions of visitors every year. As for the UEFA Euro 2012, Gdańsk is focusing on the construction of the Amber Stadium, which is a unique project, with the structure designed like a large piece of amber, as well as improving the infrastructure in the city so that the city is accessible to visitors. In time, everyone in Europe will realise that there is more to Gdańsk than just the football matches. What unique factors make Tri City attractive to investors from the United Kingdom and Ireland?
First and foremost, it’s the people. There are specific centres in Tri-City that are dedicated to science and technology. The transport infrastructure is also a significant factor thanks to the Tri-City Metropolitan Railway and current projects that improve rail connections between Gdańsk and villages in Kashubia, and there are also plans to expand a military airport near Gdynia and develop it into a
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Picture Courtesy of the City of Gdańsk
Truly Unique
Mieczysław Struk
civilian airport. Tri-City is on the A1 motorway, commonly known as the ‘Amber Highway’ and the major road running from northern Poland to the south. Then of course there are the two major ports of Gdańsk and Gdynia. Having strong transport connections are an absolute must when it comes to attracting investors. Pomerania also has a number of special economic zones, which offer preferential terms to new investors, while the Scientific and Technological Parks in Gdańsk and Gdynia inspire young entrepreneurs. With so many cultural and historical sights to visit in Tri-City, what advice would you give a first-time visitor?
Tri-City is exceptionally rich in cultural and historical sites, howe-
ver the following five attractions are perhaps the most unmissable on a first visit: Gdańsk’s historic Old Town. The Amber Museum in Gdańsk, which contains some magnificent examples of amber from around the world. St. Mary’s Basilica, the largest brick-built Gothic church in the world. The Musical Theatre in Gdynia, which shows an extensive range of musical theatre. The Polish Chamber Philharmonic concerts in Sopot – performances of the highest standard. Can you tell us about any future plans to encourage more visitors from the United Kingdom and Ireland to visit Tri-City?
Maximizing the number of flights to Gdańsk from cities across the United Kingdom and Ireland is something that we would like to see, and there will be a number of initiatives managed jointly between Tri-City and the airlines. This year, the region also had a strong presence at the World Travel Market in London, one of the most significant events for the tour operators and the travel industry, as well as at the Thames Featival in London which is a popular outdoor event for Londoners. Next year, there will be an intensive promotional campaigns organised by the Polish Tourist Organisation. 2010 is widely recognised as Chopin’s year, which will see a plethora of events promoting Poland in the United Kingdom – and Tri-City will very much be a part of them.
Mieczysław Struk is the Vice-Marshal of Pomerania and Honorable President of the Pomeranian Tourist Board, which promotes the region as a tourist destination
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The Augustów Canal One of Poland’s Great Waterways
T
he Augustów Canal was already flowing through dense primeval forest and meadows while its younger sisters, the Suez and Panama were still just a blueprint. The canal is a living relic to Europe’s turbulent history that has seen empires rise and fall. It was built in the early nineteenth century and Its raison d’etre was to bypass taxes at a time when the Polish kingdom was squeezed between two of Europe’s most powerful empires; Prussia and Imperial Russia. At that time, the city of Gdańsk handled most of Poland’s exports,
and in order to get there, goods travelling via the Vistula River had to flow through Prussian territory. The ruler of the day, Frederick the Great decided that Prussia needed to generate more income, so decided to impose heavy taxes on goods passing through his territory. In 1806, thanks to the French and Napoleon, the Duchy of Warsaw was created thereby giving the Poles a semblance of independence. After the demise of Napoleon and the Congress of Vienna, Poland once again became part of the Imperial Russian Empire, and the Tsar
granted permission in May 1824 for this project to go ahead with his own financial support. This is probably one of the greatest gifts that the Russians had ever given Poland. A young and talented Polish officer by the name of Ignacy Prądzynski was given the task of completing this ambitious yet politically sensitive project. Work began later that year and would continue for the next 15 years. The canal would join the Vistula River basin with the basin of the Niemen River, thereby allowing goods to be transported
to Baltic ports which were not located in Prussia. The Niemen River (Nemunas) is found today in Lithuania, and is in fact Lithuania’s longest river. While planning the canal, the young Prądzynski had other things on his mind as do most young men in their early twenties. He was impetuous and very patriotic to the extent that in 1826 he was arrested for being involved with fellow officers in a conspiracy against the Tsarist authorities. After returning from a three year long sabbatical, he returned to work – if only
Photography by Shutterstock
Images of the Suez Canal flowing through the desert and the Panama Canal weaving its way through dense jungle in Central America are known worldwide, however few people are familiar with Poland’s most famous man-made waterway, which is perhaps one of the oldest in Europe. Text by Andrew Usowicz
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The Augustów Canal - One of Poland’s Great Waterways
Photography by Andrew Usowicz
employers were so understanding nowadays! One sabbatical was not enough for this young engineer, and in 1831 with his fellow patriots, he decided to take part in the uprising against the Russians. Understandably his employer was to not too pleased this time, and his contract was terminated. He was sent to Russia, though he did return to his home albeit unemployed. The construction of the canal seemed to be a good idea at the time, though soon after it was finished, the Prussians had a change of heart and taxes were lowered, so the original plan of having a waterway that would be a transport corridor for the mass movement of goods was shelved. The use of railways to transport goods was starting to gain momentum at this point, and this also put paid to the future of the Augustów Canal as a major transport route through the region. All was not lost however; as the location of the canal, in one of Poland’s most beautiful and densely forested regions, ensured that it became one of the main routes for transporting timber from the forest to the ports. Even as recently as the late 1970s, it was always a thrilling sight to see timber logs floating down the canal waiting for the lock gates to open. There are still places called ‘Bindugi’ located along the canal side which were stopping places for the crews and the royal of town of Augustów had one of the largest sawmills in the country, which was still operating until quite recently. This grand old lady of canals had to live through numerous insurrections, revolutions and world wars
100 km the length of the Augustów Canal
and has survived. She became part of the front line in September 1939 when the Soviet tank regiments attacked Poland and the Germans in 1944 did their bit by blowing up three locks. All damaged locks in post war years were rebuilt and the most recent was Dębowo, which is regarded by many as the gateway to the Biebrza National Park. This lock, which was rebuilt faithfully to the original 19th century design, allows the waters of the canal to flow into the River Biebrza. If you are fortunate enough to visit this location, you will quickly realise why also this is seen as the most attractive locations for a local bus stop. The Augustów Canal is maturing into one of the most attractive canals in Europe. Flowing through the Puszcza Augustowska, Poland’s largest forest complex, you can easily canoe down this route during spring and autumn, and are more likely to come into contact with wildlife rather than other humans, as you paddle along the waterways. The canal does not form a continuously straight route with regular banks - it is unique in
that it flows through a variety of lakes, some large, some small, and that it continues its way through the royal town of Augustów and eventually onto the Biebrza National Park, forming part of the famous papal canoe route. The canal adjoins several nature reserves which form part of Natura 2000, a network of ecologically protected areas, which means that there is no disturbance from barges or mechanical water traffic. The lock keepers’ cottages, probably some of the most attractive in Europe, are listed buildings and are located deep in the forest. The canal is now settling down into old age with grace and beauty; it has been through war and destruction and now is the time to enjoy and explore it. There is however one final hurdle, or some may say ‘opportunity,’ to overcome as with most things in life: the canal is approximately 100 kilometres long and has 18 locks along its entire length; however three locks and about 2 kilometres of the canal are located in Belarus, and form the only border crossing in Europe which has been specially created for canoeists. This border is presently tightly controlled and a visa is required to travel further along the canal, though this may change at some point in the future. Belarus may eventually join the EU, which would mean that one could paddle all the way from Augustów to the Baltic via Belarus and Lithuania, and the canal will once again receive the international recognition that it deserves, and may even become listed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
About the Author Andrew Usowicz is the Managing Director of Frontier Poland arranges canoeing, kayaking and rafting tours in North Eastern Poland. He is a native English speaker who has extensive knowledge of canoeing and kayaking in the waterways of North Eastern Poland. For further information on Frontier Poland, visit wwww.frontierpoland.com or telephone +48 501 274 244.
Map
Augustów
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Top 10 Festivals and Events Poland really is abuzz with festivals and events, concerts and gigs… so many things to see and do, but so little time… Discover Poland has rounded up ten unmissable events taking place across the country over the next couple of weeks. Compiled by Agata Zborowska
Mikołajki Folkowe Folk Music Festival 11-13 December 2009, Lublin
Watch Docs - Human Rights in Film 4-13 December 2009, Warsaw Co-organised with The Helsinki Foundation for Human Rights, Watch Docs showcases the best documentaries on human rights issues from around the world. Touching and sometimes disturbing, the documentaries tackle issues such as feminism, homosexuality, and mental illness. For further information, visit www.watchdocs.pl
Chocolate Festival 3-6 December 2009, Gdańsk One for the chocoholics! Students from local art schools will spend three days creating magnificent sculptures from large chunks of chocolate, while pastry chefs compete to create the most sumptuous desserts, and there will also be a unique display of chocolate wrappers. Definitely a ‘sweet’ time to visit the Baltic city! For further information, visit www.festiwalczekolady.pl
Jacek Bierezin Competition 10-13 December 2009, Łódź Held in honour of the popular Polish poet, Jacek Bierezin, this annual competition will bring together talented young poets and writers, each competing to have their work published. There will also be discussions and workshops, as well as special activities for children. For further information, visit www.spplodz.pl
Think that folk music isn’t your thing? Think again! The energetic and lively tunes at the Mikołajki Folkowe folk music festival will have you tapping your feet and nodding your head. As well as performances of music from Central and Eastern Europe, there will also be dance classes, craft workshops and even a didgeridoo demonstration. For further information, visit www.mikolajki.serpent.pl
Ray Wilson and the Berlin Symphony Ensemble 2 December 2009, Wrocław The former Genesis front-man who has since made his home in Poland, Ray Wilson will be performing Genesis hits such as ‘Follow Me Follow You’ and ‘Land of Confusion’ with the Berlin Symphony Ensemble, taking the rock classics to a new dimension. For further information, visit www.eventim.pl
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Top 10 Festivals and Events
Festival of Christmas Carols 8 December 2009 - 10 January 2010, Będzin 7th Annual Mountain Festival 4-6 December 2009, Kraków If you are into mountain sports, make sure that you are in Kraków for the 7th Annual Mountain Festival. Whether you enjoy hiking, mountaineering, skiing or simply appreciating dramatic landscapes, you’ll be able to meet like-minded types at the festival, as well as take in exhibitions, film screenings and workshops. For further information, visit www.kfg.pl
Air 10 December 2009, Warsaw The masters of electronic retro-pop better known as Air will be playing in Warsaw this December, as the French duo continue to tour Europe, promoting their fifth studio album, Love 2. For further information, visit www.eventim.pl
If you find yourself in Southern Poland in the run-up to the festive season, make sure that you visit the Festival of Christmas Carols in Będzin. Choirs and music groups will be performing traditional Polish songs at this immensely popular annual event. Over twenty thousand people auditioned to take part in last year’s festival. For further information, visit www.ofkip.pl
Christmas Market 1-24 December 2009, Kraków The annual Christmas Market traditionally opens at the beginning of December and lasts until the Christmas Eve on the 24th of December. It is at its most festive in the week or so before Christmas. One of the city’s best-loved Christmas traditions is Szopki, or Christmas Cribs. These are not actually cribs, but large iridescent constructions of card and coloured foil. Traditionally, the szopki are placed under the Mickiewicz statue on the morning of the first Thursday of December. For further information, contact the Polish National Tourist Office in London.
Kayah 5-13 December 2009, Gdańsk, Warsaw, Zabrze, Kraków One of Poland’s best-loved contemporary singers, Kayah will wrap up the year with a series of acoustic gigs. Accompanied by the haunting sounds of cello and violin, her distinctly powerful voice is sure to make for an unforgettable performance. For further information, visit www.ticketonline.com
Photography Credits 1. Shutterstock 2. Watch Docs 3. Shutterstock 4. Shutterstock 5. eventim.pl 6. Shutterstock 7. ticketonline.com 8. Shutterstock 9. eventim.pl 10. Shutterstock
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Traversing Around Tarnรณw More laid back, less crowded but just as historically authentic as its better known sister city, Tarnรณw combines gentle, small-town charm and big-time attractions that are enough to occupy visitors for days on end. Text by Anna J. Kutor
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Photography by Anna J. Kutor
Traversing Around Tarnów
B
y rights, Tarnów should suffer from an inferiority complex. It is a charming city situated in the southeastern Małopolski province of Poland, just an hour and a quarter’s train ride east of tourist hot-spots like Kraków and Wieliczka. Overwhelmed by multitude of historical and cultural attractions in this area, most visitors see Tarnów as a convenient day-tripping destination, popping over only to get a glimpse of the beautifully-preserved Renaissance Old Town, Jewish heritage sites or sacral wooden architecture before returning to their Kraków-based chambers after sundown. In the
struggle to win the attention of domestic and international travellers, Tarnów seems like the lightweight who doesn’t stand a chance. Surprisingly, this compact city holds its own, and then some. While must-see sights and venues are all easily covered in a five hour stopover, there are plenty of reasons to stay in Tarnów for a weekend or even a whole week. Art and ethnography enthusiasts come to scrupulously scan over the myriad of sacred structures and museums in and around the city. Hikers and nature-lovers head into the nearby forested hills, filled with
trails, lush vegetation, a great population of wildlife and even a series of outlandish rock formations. Some worshippers of winter sport use it base camp from which to launch daily ski outings. Reasons aside, they all take advantage of the goodvalue-for-money accommodation and enjoy the town’s lack of pretence.
Historical Highlights
Tarnów pulls much of its appeal from its rich history. The city’s roots reach back to medieval times when the local Tarnowski family, Poland’s most ancient aristocratic clans,
claimed the area as their private property. Under their patronage, the town began to make rapid strides of progress in trade, architecture and culture, becoming an important trade hub on between Kraków and Kiev and a centre of education from mid 1500s. The stormy course of history halted the rapid pace of development in subsequent year, but trade picked up speed as the area came under the rule of the imperial monarchy. To this day, Tarnów’s raised central area radiates a Galician atmosphere, one that is at once noble, tranquil and welcoming. Ground zero for all sightseeing activ-
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Traversing Around Tarnów
ities is the Rynek, or Market Square, an immaculately kept plaza encircled by attic-topped Renaissance burgher houses. Built in the 16th century, these multi-hued buildings exhibit all the design characteristic of era - semicircular arches, rounded passageways, stone pillars and geometric patterns. They convey beauty, aesthetics and a sense of timelessness in both their overall appearance and in their details. Centre stage, the solid fortresslike City Hall commands immediate attention. The square-shape structure was erected in 14th century as the seat of city authorities,
a one-storey building consisting of two chambers and vaulted vestibules designed in Gothic style. Later, in the first half of the 16th century, it received a Renaissance face-lift under the guidance of Jan Maria Padovano, with the addition of a new floor, an extended clock tower and an ornamented roof. Almost completely ravaged by a fire in 1792, the building underwent a renewed period of reconstruction, which lasted a number of years. Evoking the distinguished elegance of former times, the hall now boasts a mixture of GothicRenaissance elements and functions as a museum, display collec-
Tarnów is also one of the country’s most ethnically diverse regions, a place where communities and cultures intersect.
tions of paintings, armory, foreign glass and porcelain artifacts and a biographical exhibition of General Józef Bem. Rising to the northwest of the square is the commanding, barebrick Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, a historical landmark highly emblematic of Tarnów. Dating from the 14th century, it was restored and renewed several times, taking on its present Neo-Gothic appearance around the end of the 19th century. From the outside, ornate stonework adorns the windows, elaborately sculpted holy figures coat the metal doors, and a grand, 72m high tower is
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Photography by Shutterstock
Traversing Around Tarnów
topped with a golden crown. Looking at the exterior is just stunning but the interior is even more opulent and impressive, boasting some of Poland’s oldest and most prized sacral artworks. Of note are the fabulously detailed altars - including the stone and marble neorenaissance altar of the Blessed Sacrament and the bronze altar of Our Lady of Sorrows ‘Pieta’, six sepulchral monument to the city’s founding Tarnowski family and a series of vibrant stained glass windows, some depicting contemporary events such as World War II and 1,000 years of Christianity in Poland.
In the backstreet behind the Cathedral is the Mikolajowski House, one of the oldest and most historic buildings in the city. Founded in 1524, the tenement house has functioned as the Diocesan Museum for over 120 years. It contains a priceless collection of ecclesiastic art from the Malopołska region: Gothic sculptures, religious cloths and an assortment of paintings on glass. The most unique piece is the original altar from the UNESCO listed Saint Leonard’s church in Lipnica Murowana.
Cultural Crossroads
Tarnów is also one of the country’s most ethnically diverse re-
gions, a place where communities and cultures intersect. For over 500 year, the city was home a burgeoning Jewish community (numbering over 25, 000 people by 1939), many of whom were members of the intellectual and cultural elite as prominent lawyers, doctors, industrialists and musicians, albeit living in poverty. There where many Jewish schools, cultural and social organisations and it was firmly established as a centre of religious life for both the secular Zionist and religious Hasidim communities with several synagogues and small prayer houses scattered throughout the
area. The German occupation of the city during World War II saw the annihilation of the community and the majority of their cultural monuments were razed to the ground. Despite the massive devastation, some relics of the city’s living Jewish past were preserved, including the synagogues, schools, baths and cemeteries. The winding narrow streets around ulica Zydowska and Wekslarksa preserve a few traces of the Hebrew community, including mezuzahs (a piece of parchment inscribed with Hebrew verses from the Torah) and the battered brick pillars of ‘Bimah’, the only fragment www.discoverpl.com
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Photography by Anna J. Kutor
Traversing Around Tarnów
left of the 17th century Old Synagogue. But perhaps the most moving and haunting memorial is the Jewish cemetery, a three hectare expanse located near the intersection of Słoneczna and Matki Bożej Fatimskiej Streets. The grounds - a place of mass murders of Jewish ghetto inhabitants during the Holocaust - are fronted by a monument assembled from the remaining columns of the New Synagogue and contain thousands of carved gravestones. Gypsies, or Roma as they call themselves, constitute another vibrant and dominating cultural force in the area. Not only is there a large Gypsy community but Tarnów also plays host to the only Ethnographic Museum in Poland - and in all of Europe, in fact - with a permanent exhibition on Roma history and culture from across Eastern Europe. Opened by the local government in 1979 in
an age-old wayside inn, this comprehensive display offers a chance to learn more about the Roma’s wandering past, traditional crafts and ongoing issues of tolerance. The museum’s collection is based predominantly on the work and documentation of its direction, ethnologist Adam Bartosz, who spent over a decade amassing information, photographs, everyday articles and artifacts of Gypsy life. Objects of interest include: folk musical instruments, garments, and a set of brightly coloured wooden caravans stationed in the courtyard of the museum.
Slice of Village Life
No visit to Tarnów is complete without spending some time exploring a few authentic and unpretentious villages, natural wonders and medieval castles outside the city. The Gothic-style knight’s residence in Dębno, situated some twenty kil-
ometres west of Tarnów, is a small defense castle erected in the 1470s by Jakub Dębiński. Four, two-story stone and brick buildings with corner towers make up the fortress, which fence in a cobblestone courtyard with a small wooden well. Converted into a museum, the interiors reveal historic facts and period artifacts - separated in rooms such as the chapel, treasury, Thegn Hall and even an old-fashioned kitchen - as one descends from one wing to the next. The fairytale-like milieu takes on distinctly medieval character during the annual jousting tournament, in which thousands of spectators come to watch knights in period costume show off their armed formations in the castle moat. To see possibly the most colourful corner of Poland that eludes the casual tourist, one must venture to the junction of the Vistula and Dunajec rivers, an enchanting ethnographic micro-region with Zali-
Further Information Tourist Information Centre Rynek 7 Tel. +48 14 688 9090 www.go-tarnow.com Tarnów District Museum (in City Hall) Rynek 20/21. Tel. +48 14 628 7250 www.muzeum.tarnow.pl
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pie at its core. Calling it a ‘painted village’ doesn’t quite do it justice, as almost every visible surface - including stoves, window sills, barn doors and even chicken pens - in the town is embellished with vibrant floral paintings. This custom of decorating dates back to the end of the 19th century, when women in the area decided to conceal their furnace-formed blackened walls with vibrant flower artwork. The house of Felicja Curylowa, Zalipie’s most gifted and prolific artist, has been turned into a museum filled with original furniture, cooking utensils, farming equipment and folk garments all festooned with a bewildering array of original plant patterns. But this decorative art form is far from being an extinct showcase: painting competitions are held each summer and women in the village regularly gather at the House of Painters to paint flowers on vases and souvenirs.
Map Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary ulica Kapitulna 2. Tel. +48 14 622 2450 www.katedra. tarnow.opoka.org.pl
Diocesan Museum Plac Katedralny 6. Tel. +48 14 621 9993 www.muzeum.diecezja. tarnow.pl Ethnographic Museum ulica Krakowska 10. Tel. +48 14 622 0625 www.muzeum.tarnow.pl
Tarnów
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Gourmet Warsaw There is no shortage of great places to eat in Warsaw. This month, Paweł Oszczyk, Executive Chef at La Rotisserie, the restaurant at Warsaw’s Le Regina Hotel, shares his recipe for leg of duck comfit with red cabbage confiture.
Serves Six Ingredients: Meat - 6 duck legs - 2 shallots - 1 clove of garlic - Zest of two lemons - Zest of two oranges - 150g sea salt - 40g crushed black peppercorns - Seasoning: allspice, bay leaves, caraway - Fresh rosemary, thyme, marjoram - 1.5l goose fat Sauce - 100ml dry white wine - 4g marjoram - 20g honey - 240ml demi-glace - 90g butter Garnish – Red Cabbage Confiture - 520g red cabbage, thinly shredded - 240ml dry red wine - 180ml orange juice - 60g honey - 5g caraway seeds - Salt and pepper - 80g sugar - Red wine vinegar - 60g fresh butter
Garnish – Roast Potato - 360g of potatoes, peeled - 30g clarified butter - Chopped parsley - Olive oil Method: 1. Place the duck legs in a bowl and cover with citrus zest, chopped shallots, garlic, sea salt, pepper, and herbs. Marinate for two days. 2. Remove the duck legs from the marinade and place in a roasting tray. 3. Coat the duck legs in hot goose fat so that it coats most of the meat. 4. Roast for 2 hours at 140oC. 5. Prepare the sauce by infusing the marjoram in white wine and honey. Reduce by a half. 6. Add the demi-glace and simmer until the mixture has reduced by a half yet again. Add butter and season with salt and pepper. 7. Marinate the red cabbage in red wine, orange juice, honey, caraway, salt and pepper. Cover and place in fridge for 24 hours, then strain the juice from the cabbage. 8. Add the sugar to the remaining juice and reduce by one third.
Photography Courtesy of Le Regina Hotel
Leg of Duck Confit with Red Cabbage Confiture
9. A dd the cabbage to the mixture and simmer for 40 to 50 minutes. Add vinegar and butter to taste. 10. B oil the potatoes in salted water, then mash and pan fry in clarified butter until light brown in colour. 11. A dd chopped parsley and a few drops of olive oil, then form into quenelles – two per portion. 12. Assemble the dish by placing the cabbage confiture in the middle of a plate, with the duck leg on top. Place the quenelles on the side. Pour sauce around the dish.
Paweł Oszczyk Executive Chef at La Rotisserie, the restaurant at Warsaw’s Le Regina Hotel
www.discoverpl.com
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Top 10 Kuiavia-Pomerania Kuiavia-Pomerania offers something for everyone – Discover Poland has rounded up ten good reasons to visit this beautiful region in Northern Poland. For further information, visit www.k-pot.pl Compiled by Alison Hope
Medieval Toruń A visit to the Medieval Old Town of Toruń should be on the itinerary of every visitor to Kuiavia-Pomerania. Arguably one of the most beautiful cities in Poland, it became one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites in 1997 and is best-known for being the birth-place of Nicolaus Copernicus.
Visitor Attractions As well as the historic city centres, there is a wealth of fascinating places to visit in Kuiavia-Pomerania, including the prehistoric settlements in Biskupin and the graduation towers in Ciechocinek. There are also numerous manor houses, palaces, and parks that are also worth visiting.
KuIAVIA -POMErAnIA
Location Kuiavia-Pomerania Kuiavia-Pomerania is easy to reach. There are direct flights from the United Kingdom and Ireland to the region’s airport in Bydgoszcz. There are also excellent road and rail links with other cities in Poland.
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Shopping Centres
Hotel Accommodation
Both Toruń and Bydgoszcz are great places to go shopping. Not only do they have large shopping malls, they also have an excellent selection of small boutiques in the city centres. Whether you are looking to treat yourself, or are looking for gifts to take home, you certainly won’t come away empty-handed.
There is no shortage of places to stay, with hotels and guest houses to suit every taste and budget; some of the historic buildings in Toruń and Bydgoszcz have been carefully restored and are now luxury hotels offering a high standard of hospitality. There are also low-cost hotels and hostels offering affordable, yet comfortable accommodation.
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Top 10 Kuiavia-Pomerania
Active Pursuits Sport is very important to KuiaviaPomerania. The region has a good reputation for athletics, basketball and football among other active pursuits. Speedway is particularly significant, as Toruń and Bydgoszcz are the only places in the world where the Speedway Grand Prix takes place twice a year.
Culture Festivals and Events Kuiavia-Pomerania has an extensive cultural calendar, which includes the prestigious opera festival, modern art exhibitions and even events that celebrate the region’s waterways.
Nightlife and Entertainment When it comes to cafes, bars and nightclubs, visitors to Kuiavia-Pomerania are spoilt for choice – from upbeat to chilled-out, there is something for everyone. Many late night venues are found in historic buildings which add to the very special atmosphere in the regions towns and cities after dark.
Delicious Delights
Agreeable Climate
Photography Credits
Kuiavia-Pomerania is well known for its regional delicacies – one of the most popular is the delicious ginger cakes that come from Toruń. In the Wisła Valley, where organic agriculture is widely promoted, visitors can enjoy locally produced honey and preserves. A festival that celebrates the region’s cuisine is held every year in Gruczno.
No need to pack an umbrella - KuiaviaPomerania is the least rainy region in Poland. Temperatures can exceed 25oC during the summer months, and generally the best time to visit is between April and October, though the towns and cities can be quite atmospheric during the winter months.
1. Map 2. Region of Kuiavia-Pomerania 3. Region of Kuiavia-Pomerania 4. Shutterstock 5. Shutterstock 6. Shutterstock 7. Region of Kuiavia-Pomerania 8. Region of Kuiavia-Pomerania
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British and Polish Christmas Customs With the end of year holidays approaching, Barry Tomalin and Anna Maria McKeever spread a little Christmas cheer as they compare Polish and British Christmas and New Year holiday customs. Text by Barry Tomalin and Anna Maria McKeever
I
t’s September in the United Kingdom, and already the first shops are putting up their Christmas holiday displays, giving new meaning to the slogan: ‘Shop early for Christmas’. The commercial imperative means that the Christmas sales season starts immediately after everyone has gone back to work after the summer holidays. Christmas is one of the major commercial festivals as everyone builds up to buying cards, decorations, presents and food and drink for the festive season. The British are becoming ever more inventive in their ways of ‘selling’ Christmas. We now have a Christmas exhibition at one of our major London exhibition centres and have even adopted the Christmas market from Germany, where, as we will see, many our Christmas customs originate. The Christmas rush really starts in early November, when London’s two central shopping streets, Ox-
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ford Street and Regent Street, have their festive street lights switched on, usually by a minor celebrity, and crowds still flock to do their Christmas shopping and see the lights. This is now copied by High Streets all over the British Isles. “But what ever happened to Christmas as a religious celebration,” we hear you ask? Well, it was, in a sense, swamped in the commercial rush but it’s still in there. The British celebrate Christmas on the 25th of December (the traditional date for the birth of Christ), and the following day, Boxing Day, the 26th of December, is also a public holiday. On Christmas Eve, the 24th of December, shops usually close early in order to allow staff to prepare for the Christmas holiday. Shops open again on the 27th of December, and this is usually when ‘the January sales’ start, and continue throughout January and February. Everything stops again
for New Year’s Eve, on the 31st of December, and another public holiday on the 1st of January. Scotland is, however, different. The main holiday there is not Christmas but New Year’s Day, known as Hogmanay in Scotland; and in Scotland, both the 1st and 2nd of January are public holidays. In Poland, by comparison, September is still very much a summer holiday period, and the Christmas festive season is a long way off. Once All Saints Day on the 1st of November (a public and religious holiday in Poland) is over, Christmas decorations start appearing gradually in the shops and shopping centres and the Christmas promotions are on their way! However, Poland is a Catholic country, and the Advent period is a quiet time, traditionally connected with the religious aspect of preparations for Christmas. At the end of November or beginning
of December, people usually avoid organising or attending balls, huge parties or even weddings, and November, in particular, is traditionally regarded as an unlucky month in which to get married. This is part of a more widespread superstition that one should not marry in month which does not contain the letter ‘r’. In this case the name of the month is ‘listopad’ in Polish. By the end of November, commercialisation is slowly taking over, and large Christmas shopping centres start bursting with customers. Luckily, Poland still is one of those countries in Europe in which the religious aspect of the Christmas period is an important factor and creates an unforgettable atmosphere running up to one of the most important days in the whole year for all Poles regardless of their religious beliefs: Christmas Eve, on the 24th of December.
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British and Polish Christmas Customs
24 Shopping Days to Christmas
In the United Kingdom, children start to open their Advent calendars. Advent is the month of preparation for the Christmas festival and is marked by cards with little windows with ‘Christmassy’ pictures, and you open one every day until the big day itself. You start buying your Christmas cards and hope that there won’t be a postal strike. The Post Office announces the final date on which you can post your cards in order to ensure that they arrive in time for Christmas. People start stocking up the presents and hiding them in cupboards away from the children, who are becoming really clever at working out exactly what they are getting without actually opening the box. Thrifty shoppers have already ordered the traditional Christmas meal. Roast turkey is the most popular dish, served with chipolata sausages, stuffing and bacon, and garnished with bread sauce, cranberry sauce and, sometimes, chestnuts. Parents dust off their Christ-
mas cookbooks. The most popular television chef at Christmas is probably Delia Smith, known to one and all as ‘Delia’. The vegetables, depending on individual taste, often include roast potatoes and Brussels sprouts, and the main course is followed by a plum pudding, known as Christmas pudding. In Poland, the 6th of December is a special day for Polish children, as this is the day on which St Nicholas – not to be confused with Father Christmas - visits children’s bedrooms at night to leave presents. On the evening before, all Polish children clean their shoes and place them neatly in rows (usually next to their beds) for St Nicholas to come at night when they are asleep and to stuff the shoes with sweets, put advent calendars next to them and leave small presents. As parents point out each year, naughty children receive nothing! Parents order the sweets and little presents well in advance – the tricky bit is for St Nicholas to place them in the children’s shoes without waking them up!
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At the beginning of December people usually start buying Christmas cards, although the younger generation sometimes prefers to send them in an electronic format. Sending Christmas cards is a very important custom in Poland and an opportunity to write letters to relatives and friends.
Twelve Shopping Days to Christmas
Visit a major station or public area in the United Kingdom, and you will find a group of people standing there singing Christmas carols and religious Christmas songs, and collecting money for charity. You may also hear kids singing carols outside your door. When the knock on your door comes, they’re collecting money for presents! Meanwhile in Poland, it is time to find out from members of the family the kind of present they would like and also time for Polish children to write letters to Father Christmas with a special list of presents they hope to receive. The list of presents is usually accompanied by pictures,
and in some cases drawings which help Father Christmas to get the right colour or size. Needless to say the lists are always very long! Adults start their hunting trips to shops and shopping centres to buy presents. Children count their pocket money to determine how much they can spend on presents for different members of the family.
Ten Shopping Days to Christmas
It’s tree time in the United Kingdom. For weeks, the garden centres and pavements in some towns have been littered with pine trees of various sizes to buy, bring indoors and decorate as Christmas trees, another 19th century German import. The decorations are going up. Trees are decorated with coloured glass balls and ‘fairy’ lights, and the walls are adorned with paper chains and other decorations. Some people even illuminate the outsides of their houses – you can sometimes see them from the air as you fly in to London airport! Holly is a popular decoration, as is a sprig
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British and Polish Christmas Customs
of mistletoe over the door. Kissing someone under the mistletoe brings your relationship luck. Every shelf, every bookcase, every flat space begins to fill up with Christmas cards sent by family and friends. Blank spaces with no cards can induce serious bouts of anxiety and depression, “No one loves me!” In Poland, Christmas trees for sale are slowly appearing on the streets: it is time to buy Christmas decorations but not a Christmas tree as yet - Polish people usually buy them a day or two before Christmas Eve. Time for children to entertain themselves and to make some Christmas decorations at home. Some of these are done at schools as part of the preparation for the festive season. Christmas cards are sent and on their way to relatives and friends, and now it’s time to rush out and start buying food.
Two Shopping Days to Christmas
“Oh, my God, we forgot to get something for Gran!” Shopping in the United Kingdom reaches a
frenzy as those last minute purchases are made. Stealthily, the SALE notices are beginning to go up, as stores let you know that the January sales season is almost on us. And then suddenly, magically, at about 4pm, the shops close and Britain breathes. It’s Christmas and for an evening, Christmas Eve; it’s quite lovely, peaceful and quiet, as people go to their families for the festive day. Poland experiences the last frantic shopping expeditions and then it’s time to wrap up the presents and hide them until Christmas Eve. Time for the famous traditional Polish Christmas cooking to begin; this very often involves three different generations of a family cooking together in one kitchen – often using recipes passed down from generation to generation, including cooking, boiling, frying and baking. Time to buy a traditional Polish dish for Christmas – a carp (usually alive and kept alive until a few hours before Christmas evening supper). There was recently a widespread campaign in Poland to dispose of this unnecessary habit of
In some households people still put a handful of hay under the tablecloth in the centre of the table, which evokes Christ being born in a stable.
causing suffering to carp, but judging by Polish attachment to tradition, things are not going to change quickly.
Christmas Eve
In the United Kingdom, many families go to midnight mass at their local churches, but anyone with children has to put the kids to bed and place a Christmas stocking at the end of the bed or on the mantelpiece above the fireplace for Santa Claus to leave his presents for the children. Santa arrives in his sleigh, pulled by four reindeer and comes down the chimney to leave the presents. How he does this and still gets back to Lapland by dawn is one of the grown-ups’ best kept secrets! One of the most important days of the year in Poland, if not the most important! A family and religious day at the same time. Hectic preparations start early in the morning, when the Christmas tree is put up by the adults and decorated by the children, and it is time to make the famous live carp
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British and Polish Christmas Customs
into a dish. Polish families eat Christmas Eve supper quite early, some of them starting as early as 5pm. Children often look for the first star to appear on the sky, which usually signals the time to sit around the table for the supper. There is a wafer placed in the centre of the Christmas table, from which every family member takes a part and goes around the table to wish other members of the family Happy Christmas. There is a very special custom in Poland: the lady of the house always puts an additional plate on the table, should somebody who is alone and without a supper knock at the door and unexpectedly join the family. Traditionally, there should be twelve dishes on the table, all of them, in theory, part of a fast – there is beetroot, mushroom or fish soup to start with, different kinds of fish, sauerkraut, mushrooms and various dumplings, and the traditional drink is a compote made from dried fruit. The are a few popular customs associated with the Polish Christmas Eve, one being to count the number of people sitting at the table; an even number will bring prosperity and health to the house, but an odd number could mean that somebody in the family circle might die next year. In some households people still put a handful of hay under the tablecloth in the centre of the table, which evokes Christ being born in a stable. After supper, families who have ‘booked’ Father Christmas in advance (it could be a friendly neighbour) wait for him to come, and before giving out the presents, he usually asks the children if they were good and might ask them to sing a carol. In some cases, the parents or other adults simply place presents under the Christmas tree after supper, and the next few hours are usually spent enjoying unwrapping the presents, singing Christmas carols and attending midnight mass.
25th of December
Thus begin what is traditionally known in the United Kingdom as the twelve days of Christmas, which end on January 6th, the Christian feast of the Epiphany. The children have been up since dawn opening stockings and enjoying the presents Santa has left them. The turkey is in the oven (‘Delia’ has given precise timings), and the family is off to church or wherever it is they go. Fewer than 10% of British people go to church regularly, and the peak attendance is at Christmas and Easter. Then it’s time to eat. People sit down to Christmas dinner at different times of the day, but there’s one Christmas tradition we haven’t mentioned – crackers. These are paper tubes which two people hold, one at each end, and pull. There is a snap as the cracker inside explodes, and whoever has the longest bit of the tube wins the prize. Don’t get excited though - the prize is a paper hat which you are expected to wear, a small present (the quality depending on the cost of the crackers) and a riddle or a joke (always bad!). Example: “When is the sun like a jelly? When it sets.” People read these out to groans all round. Finished eating? No, you haven’t. Christmas tea follows with a Christmas cake, along with a fruit cake decorated with marzipan and icing sugar. But what about the presents, we hear you ask? Well, it’s a matter for negotiation, but in our family all of the presents are placed under the Christmas tree and we give them out and open them around the tree after lunch. In Poland, everyone gets up rather late after the exciting day before, which included midnight mass. Time to start eating. Christmas breakfast followed by Christmas dinner (at lunchtime). Families usually arrange well in advance who is visiting whom, as it’s a time for more relatives to arrive to give
more presents, to watch television together and to eat, eat and eat! Polish families usually eat chicken with potatoes and various vegetables in addition to the famous bigos (traditional Polish hunter’s stew) and cakes: cheese cake, poppy cake and ginger biscuits are the most popular. Polish people traditionally go to mass in the morning or before lunchtime.
There is a wafer placed in the centre of the Christmas table.
mass. Polish churches are beautifully decorated inside, with Christmas trees and Christmas lights, and are also famous for nativity scenes during the daytime on Christmas Eve. Many families visit their parish churches specifically to look at the nativity scenes, and some people even travel to town centres to visit a few churches to compare them.
New Year’s Eve 31 of December
For most of us in the United Kingdom, it’s parties, and the toasting of a ‘Happy New Year’ as the clock chimes twelve, and often gathering in a circle to sing a traditional song, ‘Auld Lang Syne’. For the Scots, however, it’s the celebration. As the clock chimes midnight, many Scots go ‘first footing’. To bring good luck to the house ‘a tall dark man’ should place his foot over the threshold of the house as soon as possible after midnight, carrying a piece of coal, some shortbread, salt, a black bun and a ‘wee dram,’ which is a small glass of whisky. As in Britain, parties and New Year celebrations are very popular in Poland. With ladies spending time at hairdressers and spa centres preparing for a big night, there is last minute shopping for fireworks, and more cooking and baking, to celebrate New Year with a big bang.
The Epiphany 6th of January
Boxing Day 26th of December
People need Boxing Day, the holiday on the 26th of December to recover. Boxing Day was traditionally the day for giving Christmas presents or boxes but nowadays it’s mainly devoted to sleeping late to get over the excesses of the previous day. In Poland however, it is another day of visiting different family members or perhaps hosting another dinner – which means more Christmas food on the table! Another day to go to church and attend
Unlike many of their European neighbours, the British do not celebrate the feast of the Epiphany, when the three wise men brought gifts to the infant Jesus Christ. Poland, as a Catholic country however, celebrates the 6th of January, with Christmas trees and decorations remaining. In some cases, if you are lucky enough, your Christmas tree can survive until the end of January. In Britain, there is one interesting superstition. If you haven’t taken your tree and decorations down by ‘Twelfth Night’, as it is known, it is a sign of bad luck. You have been warned!
About the Authors Barry Tomalin
Anna Maria McKeever
Barry is the Director of Cultural Training at International House. He has previously worked as the Marketing Manager for BBC English and the BBC World Service. For further information about International House London, please call +44 (0) 207 611 2461 or visit www. ihlondon.com
Anna Maria is the Director of the British Polish Business Club and a Polish Consultant at the Department of Culture and Communication Training for Business, at International House. For further information on the BritishPolish Business Club, please call +44 (0) 207 193 6943 or visit www. britishpolishbusinessclub.co.uk
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Advertising Feature
Śrem Hospital
Śrem Hospital is located close to Poznań, in the region of Wielkopolska. It offers a wide range of medical services across its 13 departments, 7 laboratories and 3 clinics.
F
ollowing recent restructuring initiatives, the hospital is considered to be one of the most dynamically developed in the region. Orthopaedic surgery is the most rapidly developing department in the hospital, and considerable investments have been made in order to ensure that it is equipped with the latest technologies and the most advanced forms of medicine. The capabilities of the orthopaedic department include: diagnostics, operational and post operational treatment connected with illnesses and injuries of upper and lower limb joints and spinal column. The Orthopaedic team is led by Dr. Grzegorz Szperzynski who discovered Śrem as the ideal location for his medical team to develop their skills and experience. His team continues to follow the philosophy and methods of Professor Tadeusz Trzaska ,one of the most highly regarded orthopaedic specialists in Poland who is renowned for his minimally invasive techniques of knee-joint arthroplasty. The range of procedures available at Śrem Hospital includes: a rthroplasty a rthroscopic anterior and posteriori cruciate ligaments procedure a rthroscopic meniscal procedures a rthroscopic cartilage procedures p atellofemoral procedures s ynovial knee procedures a nkle and achilles tendon procedures s houlder procedures s pinal surgery h ip procedures p eripheral nerve compression syndromes f oot procedures c orrection of axial deformities (upper and lower extremities)
long waiting lists at a larger clinic in Poznań. This procedure has since become a routine procedure. By implementing the latest diagnostic technologies and treatment methods as well as the highest possible
the highest possible level of service is confirmed by the fact that it has gained the ISO 9001:2000 Quality Management System certificate. This enables Śrem Hospital to stay ahead in the field of orthopaedic surgery.
Orthopaedics and Traumatology the hospital in Śrem Department in Srem Specialistic orthopaedic treatment First class personnel Wide range of orthopaedic procedures:
٠ arthroplasty ٠ arthroscopic the anterior hospital inand Śremposteriori cruciate ligaments procedure ٠ arthroscopic meniscal procedures ٠ arthroscopic cartilage procedures ٠ patellofemoral procedures ٠ synovial knee procedures ٠ spinal surgery ٠ ankle and Achilles Tendon procedures ٠ shoulder procedures ٠ hip procedures ٠ peripheral nerve compression syndromes ٠ foot procedures ٠ correction of axial deformities (upper and lower extremities) The above mentioned procedures are only part of the procedures available in the orthopaedics department.
In April 2009, Śrem Hospital introduced a shoulder joint operation involving an endoprothesis implant that is normally performed exclusively at clinical institutes. Until this point, patients from Wielkopolska had to endure
For more information: www.szpital-srem.pl e-mail: b.barbukow@szpital-srem.pl Poland, Śrem, 1 Chełmońskiego St. Tel. +48 797 188 004
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quality medical devices, the highly qualified and experienced medical team can assure each patient a quick and complete recovery from their procedure. Śrem Hospital’s dedication to offering its patients
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Meet the UK Trade & Investment Team in Warsaw British Embassies, High Commissions and Consulates in around 100 countries worldwide have commercial teams. These offer services to British companies wanting to do more business overseas and to overseas companies thinking of investing in the United Kingdom. Text by Mariola Biedrzycka
T
he commercial team in Warsaw deals with around one thousand British companies each year, providing essential information and delivering tailored services to help companies explore and take advantage of business opportunities overseas. For readers not familiar with us and our work, here’s a brief insight into the work we do and the people who make up the UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) team in Warsaw. To start with, a few words about the Embassy we are proud to work in.
The British Embassy in Warsaw
A British legation was first established in Warsaw in 1919. During the Second World War, the British Embassy moved to Romania and then France, returning to premises in Warsaw in 1945. From 1945 to 2009, the Embassy occupied a beautiful nineteenth-century building on Aleje Roz plus space in the Warsaw Commercial centre on Emilii Plater where the UKTI, visa and consular teams were sited. In July this year we made yet another move – relocation to
a new, state of the art Embassy in Warsaw’s Kawalerii Street. The building was officially opened on 16 October 2009 by former Polish President, Lech Walesa and Her Majesty’s Ambassador, Ric Todd. It houses all 90 or so staff in mainly open-plan accommodation.
source of up-to-date market and contact information, business opportunities, country-specific sector analysis and advance notice of forthcoming events.
OMIS – the Flagship Service
Overseas Market Introduction Service (OMIS) is a chargeable
UK Trade & Investment, Poland - the Embassy’s Commercial Section
UKTI is the British government organisation’s which helps British based business to succeed in international markets. For every £1 that UKTI spends, £16 is generated for the UK economy. UKTI’s estimated total financial benefit to British business is around £2 billion per year. UKTI has a wide range of tools that businesses can use to gather information on target markets and also helps to match British products with the right overseas buyers and partners. The first port of call is our website www.uktradeinvest. gov.uk, which provides content tailored to the chosen business sector and market. This is a great
We pride ourselves on offering a professional and impartial service, tailored to your individual company’s needs.
package of bespoke services designed to support British-based companies wishing to enter the Polish market as well as British companies that already operate in Poland. OMIS is usually commissioned via local international trade teams in the United Kingdom and is delivered by UKTI teams worldwide. Through this service, the Embassy’s Trade & Investment Advisers in Warsaw, who have wide local experience and knowledge, can identify and provide the support and advice most relevant to the a UK company’s needs in the Polish market. This flexible service can include: providing market information, validated lists of agents or distributors, key market players or potential customers in the Polish market establishing local interest in working with British firms arranging appointments with potential partners in Poland We can also organise seminars or other events for the British firms to meet contacts or promote their companies.
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Meet the UK Trade & Investment Team in Warsaw
Last year, the UKTI team in Warsaw delivered OMIS services to 92 customers.
Meet the Team
The Team in Warsaw consists of 17 officers: our Director, Liz Basing, plus 16 Polish Trade and Investment Advisers. Between us we have specialist knowledge
Further Information UKTI Team Warsaw ul. Kawalerii 12 00-468 Warszawa Tel: +48 22 311 0000 Fax: +48 22 311 0316 warsaw.commercialsection@ fco.gov.uk www.uktradeinvest.gov.uk
Success Stories There are numerous cases where the UKTI team in Warsaw has played a part in helping British businesses to expand into Poland. Here are just a few examples: Jumbotugs, the UK’s leading manufacturer of zero emission airport tow tractors, is enjoy-
and contacts in almost every sector of the economy and we have clocked up a total of 173 years experience working for UKTI Team Warsaw. We have varied backgrounds in educational disciplines ranging from European studies, engineering, economics and cultural and educational animation to
ing significant sales in Poland, following a successful trade mission. The British Embassy in Poland played a key role in arranging meetings for Jumbotugs with airport operators and airside ground handling companies across the country. It has resulted in sales totalling approximately £400,000 of over 25 units to airports in Warsaw, Gdańsk, Kraków, Poznań, Szczecin and Wroclaw. Embassy support for Jumbotugs included help involving airports in the trade mission, plus marketing and translation support. The Jumbotugs airport tow tractors, or tugs, are 100% battery powered, helping to reduce airport emissions, particularly carbon dioxide. They are used for a variety of ground handling and aircraft maintenance roles, but principally for towing baggage trains. Roger James, Sales Manager for Jumbotugs, said: “The British Embassy
topic professionally, imaginatively and effectively. Of course we have lives outside work, and here our interests are varied too. Mountain hiking is high up on the list for Marzena, Halina, Slawek, Sylwia, Kasia and Robert. Ania, Trade & Investment Adviser and PA to the Deputy Head of Mission, has a virtual menagerie at home with two parrots, mice, a rat, hens, ducks and cats. Kasia, our OMIS Manager and team Deputy, has lived in Egypt and Agnieszka in Malaysia, while Malgorzata spends weekends and holidays travelling in Europe. Darek takes pleasure in reading Remarque while listening to chillout music. Hala likes shopping at Marks & Spencer. Monika and Mariola enjoy embroidery, Sylwia can organise the best parties and Paulina is an interior design enthusiast. Iwona’s gardening and Robert’s and Mariola’s culinary skills have had prizewinning results and, last but not least, Liz is developing a taste for opera.
applied linguistics. Many of us have worked in the private sector and among the team we have a Chevening scholar, an MBA and a qualified pilot as well as tertiary level and postgraduate qualifications in a range of subjects. This combination of skills, experience and knowledge enables us to deal with almost any
We pride ourselves on offering a professional and impartial service, tailored to your individual company’s needs. Get in touch with us now to find out how we can help your business develop in Poland.
not only opened doors for us in Poland, but provided a high and extremely focused level of logistical and practical support. ‘The resulting sales we achieved speak volumes about the success of this mission for us.” The UKTI team in Warsaw has also helped Notts Sport, a leading UK supplier of artificial turf surfaces, to enter the Polish market. After commissioning OMIS services in 2007 and 2008, Notts Sport appointed several Polish distributors. One of them, Hemet, has placed orders with Notts Sport worth €20,000, with a further €30,000 of business expected to follow within the year. Andy Carter, CEO of Notts Sport, has praised the support provided by the UKTI team in Warsaw, saying,“the work of the embassy team over the last few months in connection with our OMIS project has been exemplary. We would strongly recommend
other organisations to use their service for market access research and organisation in Poland.” Haskell Engineering, manufacturers of high pressure liquid gas and equipment, commissioned a market research report with the UKTI team in Warsaw. The UKTI team delivered a report that included warmed-up lists of potential endusers, potential distributors and key competitors. Paul Harrison, System and Distributor Manager at Haskell Europe Limited, had this to say about the services he received: “We commissioned OMIS reports in Poland, the Czech Republic and Russia. The UKTI teams provided an excellent, professional service in all three markets and the reports they did for us helped the company make some key business decisions. I would recommend this service to any company looking for impartial advice on entering a new overseas market.”
Helping to Grow Your Business
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Gxy: a Buxetite www.istebna.eu ٠ DISTRICT ISTEBNA ٠ ٠ JAWORZYNKA ٠ KONIAKÓW ٠ Where is this place? You could say: Far, far away behind the mountains, behind the endless woods, behind seven rivers - and you would not be wrong because this country truly lies behind hills and forests in the heart of The Beskid Sląski Mountines in Poland. Administrative district Istebna consists of three villages: Istebna, Jaworzynka and Koniaków and is situated in the southern part of the Silesian province, where Poland is bordered by the Czech Republic and Slovakia. It is the very place where you can encounter live folk music. Local inhabitants – Highlanders still wear regional outfits and the local cuisine is as delicious as it was a hundred years ago. Picturesque countryside, plenty of walking and ski trails, cycle tracks, as well as the local hospitality guarantee your relaxation in the area. Another example of appreciating traditions is the custom of lace making (Koniaków). The commune is developing its tourist infrastructure. Modern hotels, pensions, shelter-homes, private lodgings and lodgings on a farm are ready to accommodate over 2500 tourists. Tourist Information +48 33 855 61 58
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Life in Poland: “I Believe the Future is Bright” John Duckworth is the Managing Director of property firm, Jones Lang LaSalle’s Central and Eastern European operations. He has been living in Warsaw for just over a year, and tells Discover Poland why the pace of life in Poland is perfect for his young family. Interview by Alison Hope How did you end up relocating to Poland?
Prior to arriving in Poland I worked in London and Paris for property firms Jones Lang LaSalle and King Sturge. My roles were primarily working with a large variety of international clients across the European, Middle East and African markets on a number of real estate related projects and
relationships. The international nature of the work enabled me to gain deep experience of working across widely differing cultures and business practices, something which has enabled me to transition to new markets. Last year Jones Lang LaSalle asked me if I wanted to head up our business in the Central & Eastern Europe (CEE) which consists of Poland,
the Czech Republic, Hungary and Romania. After thinking it over with my French wife Celine, we decided to take the opportunity. Our arrival in Warsaw coincided with the Lehman’s crash and subsequent credit crisis. Central and Eastern Europe was clearly heavily impacted so initially the experience was a rollercoaster ride, however we are now settled and
loving the experience - so much so we are expecting our third child in March! Before arriving in Warsaw, did you have any preconceived ideas about life in Poland?
I had previously visited Poland through my work and my father had wide experience of visiting and working
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Life in Poland: “I Believe the Future is Bright”
Another impression was around the people. Our welcome to life here in Warsaw has been great. After an initial engagement period where there was plenty of ‘getting to know one another’, I now increasingly appreciate the Polish character. In particular, my working colleagues are the most capable, dedicated, humorous and interesting team of people I have had the pleasure to work with. Most are under 35 and I believe represent an incredibly vibrant future for this country. How settled are you in Poland?
We are very settled. Firstly, family life is good. With a third
Warsaw is a great city for young families. Living here is straightforward and safe. John Duckworth is enjoying family life in Warsaw
with the Poles in his career. I therefore had some ideas about what to expect. Some of these were frankly stereotypical, such as the cold winters and challenging architecture, but also I knew about the depth and character of the people and their profound belief in the future of the country. All of these ideas have been challenged and either turned over or reinforced. I am pleased to say the negative stereotypes are the one to have been turned over. What were your first impressions of Warsaw, when you arrived in Poland for your new role?
We arrived in glorious warm sunshine in September of 2008. Within two weeks it was as if the lights were flicked off as the
start of an early wet winter began. This was a challenge, but then again we knew that a move to a new country would not be without them. The first thing that struck me was the potential of the country. With a population of 38 million in the heart of Europe and in a key strategic location, Poland clearly has a big future, yet it is underdeveloped in terms of infrastructure and the built environment. I was highly impressed by the Warsaw skyline, something that sits comfortably alongside most large provincial German or American cities. However the roads and rail systems now need to benefit from a systematic and determined level of investment if the country is to grow to its full potential.
child on the way we are clearly comfortable with our life here. Our two boys, Oliver and Charlie, are at the French school, which is part of the French Lycée Internationale network. We have a nice network of friends and our social life is busy and varied. We live in a lovely part of town with plenty of green space whilst still being accessible to the city, for work. Warsaw is a great city for young families. Living here is straightforward and safe. Travelling around is fairly easy and there is plenty to do with the kids at the weekend. Have you faced any challenges as an expat in Poland?
The number one challenge has been the language. Being a
relatively decent French speaker, I naively thought I would be able to turn my ear to Polish. This was simply not the case and the Slavic structure of the language has been tough. I am slowly picking it up, but ultimately it seems highly likely that my children will be much more fluent than I ever will be. I will keep trying, though... What do you like about life in Poland?
The pace of life is perfect. You can accelerate hard and push things along when you need to, or step off for a while and take things easy. For a young family this is a good rhythm, and one that we enjoy. We also love the climate. After a relatively benign climate in London, we now experience proper weather. Minus 20 ºC to plus 35 ºC is a fair range over the year and it tends to define your life out here in terms of how you dress, feel, work and play. This is good and enriches the experience.
Do you envisage living in Poland in the long term?
Much depends on the family and the job. I can see us being here for a good while. Expats come and go, but there needs to be a meaningful period of several years to get the most out of it and to contribute to others. What excites me is about the future potential of this country. Even during 2009, it never lost its faith in growth borne out by its unique GDP. With continuing plans by companies to grown and invest in Poland together with commitments to the UEFA European Championships in 2012 and other large infrastructure projects, I believe the future is bright for the country. Couple this with the drive, energy and skills of the people then it will be a difficult place to leave for the foreseeable future.
Further information For further information on Jones Lang LaSalle, visit www.joneslanglasalle.pl
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New Connect - Poland’s Alternative Trading Platform Poland is home to a large number of innovative start-up companies with high growth potential, but without enough capital to reach it. At the same time, there are many investors willing to take higher risks of investing in companies with a shorter history, provided they see an opportunity to make higher returns. Text by Łukasz Liese
I
n order to help bring together investors who are more tolerant to risk and companies which are seeking capital for growth, but do not yet have a long and proven track record, the Warsaw Stock Exchange (WSE), in 2007, introduced a new regulated market called New
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Connect as an alternative trading system providing new sources of financing and a trading platform for start-ups and young companies with high growth potential. This new trading vehicle is in many ways similar to the AIM platform introduced by the London Stock
Exchange to help smaller and growing companies raise growth capital. Today, New Connect has over one hundred companies listed with a market capitalisation of PLN 2,387.43 million. New Connect was conceived to serve the high-tech sector; how-
ever, today, the list includes companies from a wide range of industries such as IT, electronic media, biotechnology, alternative energy, modern services and so on. Companies looking to be listed on New Connect must have stable revenues and should, at least in theory,
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seek capital injection to be able to grow, although some applications come from brand new companies with little more than an idea for a business. According to Michal Szukalski, partner at M&M Doradztwo, a business consulting firm and New Connect Authorised Advisor with several successful placements, “entrants that have the greatest chance of raising capital through New Connect are usually not the start-ups, but companies in the early stages of development, able to convince investors that their investment will translate into profit in a relatively short period of time.” He continues, “innovative companies in biotechnology, IT and those with interesting and innovative ideas are held in high regard by investors.” To be listed on New Connect, an applying firm must first of all be a joint stock company (or a joint stock limited partnership company) with unlimited transferability of its shares, cannot have been declared insolvent or be in the process of an ongoing liquidation proceeding. Also, in the majority of cases, the company must be willing to co-operate with an Authorised Advisor and a Market Maker. The Authorised Advisor – it can be an investment company, legal firm, auditor or financial advisory company – assesses whether an applying company is ready to introduce its shares to the New Connect market in a private placement, supports the applicant in its preparation for entry and co-operates with the company for at least the first year of trading. A Market Maker is an investment company which will support the company for a minimum of two years, mainly by ensuring the liquidity of its shares. A single investment company can
act both as an Authorised Advisor and as a Market Maker. New Connect has less stringent entry requirements than ‘fully fledged’ markets, which undoubtedly lowers the cost of capital for those deciding to use it. There are two ways in which a company can raise capital on New Connect: through a private placement with up to ninety-nine investors, and through a public offering. The private placement takes less time (usually two to three months) and admission to trading is based on a short information document prepared by the Authorised Advisor. A public offering, on the other hand, involves the same steps as those required in getting listed on the WSE, takes approximately the same amount of time - six to nine months - and has more stringent information requirements. Aside from the main benefit of being able to raise relatively cheap capital, there are a number of other advantages for a company getting listed on New Connect, such as increased exposure to the press – it is always keen to spot a future giant – increased credibility, improved liquidity of company shares whose value most of the time remains steady in comparison to similar unlisted firms. Investors, on the other hand, enjoy easier access to growth companies, low transaction costs and security of trading. So, is it worthwhile for investors to invest in companies listed or looking to be listed on New Connect? In general, the answer seems to be ‘yes’, since many applicants as well as many companies already listed become very successful and continue to show lots of potential in the future. One example includes a company called Hotblok, one of the
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New Connect - Poland’s Alternative Trading Platform
plants. Foreign investors can and do invest in companies on New Connect. They can either invest before a company goes on New Connect, through a private placement, or buy shares once a company has been listed. Foreign investors can also have majority shares in companies listed on New Connect. For example, a company called Virtual
85%
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of companies in New Connect have seen share value increase
most innovative firms in the building materials sector, whose assets include a patent that is unique on a world-wide scale: a system of building blocks made of lightweight concrete, with a foamed polystyrene insulation insert, which, among other benefits, significantly increases the energy efficiency of buildings. Another example is a company called Orzeł. It sells tyres through the internet and through physical locations in Poland. More interestingly, the firm is in the final stages of gaining EU funding for what
will likely be the most modern recycling plant in Europe. Thus far, the vast majority of companies on New Connect and their investors have been Polish; however, foreigners as well are starting to take notice. Currently there are two foreign companies on New Connect, both of them from the Czech Republic: Photon Energy, which develops solar panel installations (ground and rooftops), and BGS Energy Plus, also from the sector of renewable energy sector, which owns, designs and builds biogas-fired power
Vision (M&M is its authorised advisor) has a main shareholder that is registered in Germany. One of the main strategic goals for the exchange will be to attract more foreign investors the near future, with a main focus on those from the CEE region. On the whole, the shares of majority of companies initially increase in price: approximately 75% of shares since the inception of New Connect have gone up in value during their first day of trading following an IPO on the exchange. More recently, in 2009, the shares of approximately 85% of companies have gone up following an IPO. However, it is important to keep in mind that, despite the significant potential for a very high return on investment, there
is also a large degree of risk which needs to be carefully managed. Also, like all the world’s stock exchanges, New Connect has experienced tough times due to the recent economic crisis. According to Szukalski, during the first months of the crisis, the New Connect index fell by approximately 40% and the number of new entrants, with only four new listings in the first quarter of 2009, also decreased. Still, Szukalski goes on to say, things have improved noticeably as compared to what was observed in the past year. There has been a noticeable increase not only in the number of companies interested in once again raising more capital through New Connect, but also in the demand on the part of investors looking for interesting projects. As the economic situation continues to improve, not just in Poland but also abroad, investors who have capital to invest and are not afraid to take on a bit more risk than with investing on the traditional market will continue to be drawn to the innovative companies listed on New Connect. They can have a good chance of getting a very high return on their investment. The key to success for all involved will be the ability to diversify risk effectively. Of course, the overall economic climate will also have to continue to change for the better.
Further Information For further information on New Connect, visit www. newconnect.pl
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Leases and Tenancies under Polish Law This month, Nicholas Richardson, Managing Partner at Managing Partner of Richardson & Partners in Warsaw examines the key differences between leases and tenancies under Polish law, and highlights the ways in which they are different to contracts under English law. Text by Nicholas Richardson
I
n England, tenants rent property from landlords and the document they sign is a lease. If we think any deeper about it – and few of us do – we might draw a distinction between a tenancy agreement which may imply the renting of residential premises and a lease which may imply the renting of commercial premises. We might even draw a distinction between such a lease and a long leasehold interest – typically 99 years – in land on which we may develop buildings of some sort. But generally, we are not too troubled by any of this - as long as the document does what we expect, everybody is happy. Companies entering the Polish market will, however, be interested to learn that there is a difference between leases and tenancies under Polish law. Both provide the tenant with a contractual right to occupy premises in exchange for rent but each has different characteristics which affect the relationship between the landlord and tenant so it is as well to know what these are. Under the Polish civil code which governs most civil arrangements in Poland, a lease is a contract whereby the landlord grants to the tenant the right to occupy premises for a certain time in return for the payment of rent. A tenancy is also a right to occupy premises or land for a certain time in return for the payment of rent, but in addition allows the tenant the right to collect ‘fruits’ from the premises rented. Clearly, this might make sense in the case of agricultural land where there is an interest in harvesting crops but what about normal commercial premises? Typically, office space or a unit in a shopping centre would be rented under a lease agreement whereas a free standing warehouse or factory unit might
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be rented under a tenancy agreement, especially if the occupier of the factory was gathering the fruits of his machinery. But surely this was not really the reason for using a tenancy agreement in the nonagricultural sphere? Yes, there was a better one. And the better reason was that under the civil code a contract of tenancy is valid for up to 30 years whereas a lease agreement was, before the changes to the civil code this year, valid for up to 10 years. What this meant in practice was that if a lease agreement was signed for a term longer than 10 years, the agreement was deemed to be an agreement signed for an indefinite period and thus terminable on a maximum of three months notice. This was particularly unhelpful to developers who needed longer leases to be able to finance development projects. The tenancy agreement with a fixed period of up to 30 years was much more useful, although it could not be used in every case. Now a lease agreement may also extend to up to 30 years before it is deemed to be an agreement for an indefinite period. Of course there are some other differences as well. Generally speaking the repairing and maintenance obligations under a tenancy agreement are more extensive than those under a lease agreement. Under the former the tenant has to maintain the premises in a non deteriorated condition whereas under the latter the tenant is typically responsible for minor repairs only with landlord remaining responsible for major structural repairs and maintenance. However, much turns on the negotiations between the landlord and tenant and it is certainly possible in Poland to have a lease which is close in effect to a full re-
pairing and insurance lease under English law. It is normal under a tenancy agreement for the landlord specifically to require the tenant to pay those costs normally associated with ownership of the property such as property taxes and usufruct fees. In the case of a lease agreement, these costs do not normally appear as a separate item but are included in the rent or as a component part of any service change so the tenant does not avoid them whatever the arrangement. When it comes to terminating the agreement, there are some minor variations depending on whether the agreement is a lease or a tenancy. If a lease agreement is for a fixed term, the landlord may terminate it on one month’s written notice if the tenant fails to pay the rent for two consecutive payment periods. A tenancy for a fixed term may be terminated on three months’ written notice after the tenant has failed to pay the rent for two consecutive payment periods. The subtlety here is that if a tenant pays rent quarterly, for example, then the notice may be served after six months and not two months. Where either form of contract is concluded for an indefinite term, that is no termination date is specified in the agreement, either party may terminate the agreement as provide in the agreement or, if nothing is provided, on up to a maximum of three months’ written notice. There are certain exceptions, for example in the case of agricultural land, where the periods differ, but the general principle remains. Of interest to all parties is what happens if the premises are sold by the landlord to a third party during the term of the agreement. Put simply, the new owner may terminate the lease agreement
or tenancy agreement subject to complying with the statutory notice periods which are typically three months. The new owner may not terminate the existing agreement if it has been concluded for a definite period and the date of the agreement was certified by notary (yes, they crop up everywhere) and if the premises have been delivered to the tenant. If this certification is missing, the new owner may terminate the agreement. Inevitably given the differences there are similarities too. The landlord, subject to one or two exceptions, has a statutory right of pledge on any movable property brought onto the premises by the tenant to secure the payment of rent. Once the property is removed from the premises the pledge drops away unless the landlord has opposed the removal. So, in a nutshell, we have the main differences between leases and tenancies under Polish law. In practical terms in most cases the differences will not be significant but is as well to be aware of them for those cases when it does make a difference.
Nicholas Richardson Richardson & Partners
For further information about Richardson & Partners, please call +48 (0) 22 653 6900 or visit www.rrolegal.com
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Tax Capital Grouping in Poland Conditions, Advantages and Opportunities Often, a company’s business activity is carried out by creating various, related group companies, each having a special purpose within the group. There are good legal and business reasons to do so. Camiel van der Meij and Robert Jurkiewicz from PriceWaterhouse Coopers in Warsaw examine the different options. Text by Camiel van der Meij and Robert Jurkiewicz
H
aving various separate legal entities, such as ‘Sp.zo.o’ or ‘SAs’ in one group is often the mere result of successful acquisitions made in the past. From a tax perspective, each corporate entity is a separate taxpayer, both for Corporate Income Tax (CIT) and Value Added Tax (VAT). Having various separate companies in one group is not always the most tax efficient way of conducting business though. This is because, among other things: Transfer pricing issues. No losses with profits compensation. More than one separate tax returns (compliance). Tax consolidation is the answer. Corporate income tax consolidation is provided for many European tax regimes. Also in Poland, there are special provisions that give a group of respectively related companies the possibility to form a fiscal unity (a tax capital group) and benefit from common settlement of their corporate income tax liability. Based on the data provided by the Ministry of Finance, in 2008 there were only 15 tax capital groups in Poland. They declared taxable income in the amount of PLN 3, 559, 776, 000 and paid PLN 665, 401, 000 corporate income tax (Source: www. mf.gov.pl, information concerning settlements of corporate income tax in the year 2008). Bearing in mind the above, one could ask a question why there are so few tax capital groups in Poland? Below we present conditions which must be fulfilled by a group of companies to become the tax capital group. Moreover we will try to indicate both major opportunities and advantages but also threats which might be involved with creating a tax capital group in Poland.
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Conditions for setting-up a tax capital group in Poland A tax capital group is created upon signing of a tax capital group agreement by its members in the form of a notary deed and registering of the agreement with tax authorities. This agreement has to be concluded for at least 3 years and filed to the relevant tax office, at least 3 months before the beginning of the tax capital group’s fiscal year. According to the Polish Corporate Income Tax Act (Corporate Income Tax Act of 15 February 1992, consolidated text of 14 June 2000 Dz.U. No. 54, item 654) a tax capital group can be created only by limited liability companies (Sp. zo.o’s) or joint stock companies (SA’s), all of which meet the following requirements: The average share capital per company in the group equals at least PLN 1 million. The parent entity or ‘holding company’ in the tax capital group holds directly at least 95% of shares in each subsidiary or ‘sister company’ being part of the group. Subsidiaries within the tax capital group do not hold shares in sister companies within the group. The companies forming the tax capital group have no tax arrears, or outstanding tax liabilities. The above conditions should be fulfilled at the moment of a registration of the tax capital group and, with the exception of the last one, should be maintained during the entire duration period of the tax capital group agreement. The CIT Act provides also three additional conditions which have to be met after the tax capital group is registered by the tax authorities. The companies created the tax capital group cannot benefit from any CIT exemptions based on legal acts other than the CIT Act (e.g.
Calculation 1 - no tax grouping Taxable income/loss Tax rate Tax liability
Company A
Company B
(+) 100
(-) 50
19%
19%
(+) 19
0
Capital group
(+) 19
Calculation 2 - tax grouping enabled Taxable income/loss Tax rate Tax liability
Company A
Company B
Tax Capital group
(+) 100
(-) 50
(+) 50
19%
19%
19%
0
0
(+) 9,5
the companies cannot be operating in a special economic zone, and enjoy a tax exemption). The companies in the tax capital group can only conclude transactions with other related companies at arm’s length. The tax capital group has to maintain a minimal 3% tax profitability ratio (i.e. taxable income / total turnover).
Advantages and Threats
The main advantage of creating fiscal unity is the possibility to offset losses incurred by one company in the group with profits earned by another company in the group. As an example, let’s have a capital group consisting of only two companies. Company A earned, in a given tax year, the taxable income (+100) and Company B incurred, in the same tax year, the tax loss (- 50). Below we present two calculations. Calculation 1 shows the income tax burdens of the capital group in case the companies constituting this
group calculate and pay their CIT liability separately. Calculation 2 shows the income tax settlement of the same companies creating a tax capital group. The simple example in the table above illustrates that the total CIT burden of a capital group might be considerably lower in case it forms a tax capital group compared with the situation in which these companies would calculate the CIT liability on a stand alone basis. A second advantage in creating a tax capital group is that the risk of losing the right to carry forward a tax loss incurred by a company included in the group is reduced. This is because, according to the general CIT rule the amount of the loss incurred by the company in the tax year may be deducted from income generated by this company only in the next consecutive five tax years, with the proviso that the amount of the deduction in any of those year may not exceed 50% of the amount of this loss.
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Tax in Poland
A third advantage is that according to CIT Act the transfer pricing requirements do not apply in case of transactions between companies making up a tax capital group. Last but not least, a fourth advantage of setting up the tax capital group is that it only need to submit one annual CIT return to the tax office, i.e. only the representative company from the group filing consolidated income and CIT liability. It should finally be noted that, in case of a tax capital group, a donation constitutes taxable revenue for the receiving entity and, at the same time, when made within the tax capital group, it also constitutes a tax deductible cost for the donor. Therefore, from the perspective of the tax capital group donations are CIT neutral, which is not the case in a group of companies not making up the tax capital group. The above possibility enables the companies creating the tax capital 78 20.indd 78
group financing each other without any tax on civil law activities’ burden, as donations are not taxable activities within the meaning of the Polish Civil Law Activities Tax Act. In such a case also the thin capitalisation restrictions would not find application, as there will be no interest paid on donation. The threats concerning a tax capital group are mainly connected with a potential failure to meet the conditions and thus losing the status of a consolidated CIT taxpayer. According to the CIT Act, if a member of a tax capital group performs an act that will lead to a change of factual or legal status resulting in failure to meet the tax capital group conditions, the tax capital group, as a rule, loses the status of a consolidated group on the day that such action is concluded. This day is also the last day of the tax group’s fiscal year. There is one exception from the above rule, e.g. if the condition of 3% profitability ratio is not achieved, the tax
capital group loses the status of a CIT taxpayer on the last day of the month in which the annual CIT return was filed. It should be emphasised that losing the status of a CIT taxpayer by the tax capital group will not result in an obligation to correct the CIT settlements of a particular member for the period in which such status
The tax capital group offers valuable planning tools, and therefore needs to be properly studied.
was enjoyed by the group, in other words; there is no “claw back” to the period before the break-up of the tax capital group. On the other hand the most noticeable risk connected with the tax capital groups is that tax loss incurred by it cannot be covered from taxable income of individual companies if the duration of the agreement expires or if the tax capital group loses its status. As an example, let’s assume that the tax capital group incurred loss in a given tax year. In such case, the tax capital group will first lose its status and second the loss incurred by it could not be settled up in the future.
Conclusions
The current regulations do offer groups of companies the real option to consolidate their income, file one tax return, offset losses with profits in the group, and limit the transfer pricing exposures. The tax capital group offers valuable planning tools, and therefore needs to
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be properly studied and considered by tax directors, finance directors, and others dealing with the tax affairs of the group. The regulations concerning tax capital groups in Poland first appeared in 1996. From that time the conditions of forming fiscal unity in Poland have been gradually liberalised. It seems that this process will be continued in near future, especially in the light of the conference ‘Comprehensive Reform of Income Taxes� organised by CDSP, KIDP and Lewiatan which took place on 26th June 2009. At the conference, de lege ferenda postulates were presented concerning desired changes of current regulations regarding tax capital groups (amongst others, necessity of decreasing the 3% profitability ratio). Should even only a part of the proposed changes be introduced this will mean that the option of forming a tax capital group regime in Poland needs even more consideration.
Camiel van der Meij
Robert Jurkiewicz
For further information about PriceWaterhouse Coopers, please call +48 22 523 40 00 or visit www.pwc.com www.discoverpl.com
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Crisis Strategy and Telecommunications in Poland
Photography by Shutterstock
Iwona Golinska, Regional Director for Poland and CEE with billing provider Intec examines the impact of the global recession on Poland’s telecoms market. Text by Iwona Golinska
I
n times of crisis, most Telco operators in Poland seem to focus purely on cost cutting. The largest, such as Polkomtel have introduced over 300 cost-cutting initiatives, whereas, others, such as TP/Orange Group and T-Mobile Poland have reduced their costs by using global brand synergies, international access to cheaper resources as well as outsourcing entire business operations to cheaper - but not necessarily better - system integrators. The overall impression is that the operator’s first reaction to the economic downturn was to cut costs. It is understandable that this strategy may be desirable on a tactical level and it does work in the short term. However the long term strategy must also involve other issues, in particular quality and new revenue streams that come from advanced services such as third generation, better known as 3G. Today, voice as well as 2G and 2.5G data services do not pose any more technological concerns for operators in Poland, who are fiercely competing in those vertical markets. But the possibilities offered by
3G and 4G/LTE services, combined with content from content creators, offer new revenue streams. These markets are as yet untapped by the Polish operators. This becomes more obvious when we look at the competitive landscape of the Polish Telco market. The established operators will now have to consider new competition from virtual operators (MVNOs) who are predicted to have over three million customers by the year 2012. The success of these operators will largely depend on finding a specific market niche and addressing a very specific group of customers. MVNO operators were meant to win the market by offering cheaper connections. One thing that is now obvious is that cheap connections will not be the way to win customers in the future. What may work however is adding value services and introducing co-operation between MVNOs and well established operators to win new clients. However the delivery of these new services and the cooperation between operators will not be enough. Behind the new services
lie a variety of OSS (Operations Support Systems) and BSS (Business Support Systems) solutions that provide operators and service providers with the support mechanisms to create and commoditise their offering. For the Polish telecoms companies to be able to capitalise on new services, a new focus on OSS/BSS infrastructure is required to deliver the functionality to support the new services, in real-time, via automated interactions and efficient management options. The issue for Polish operators will be making the strategic decisions by choosing the right OSS/BSS technology that will enable them to capitalise on new services. One such strategic decision, that was based upon the quality and flexibility of new services, was the signature of a multimillion contract between the largest and the most profitable Polish operator Polkomtel and Intec – a global supplier of OSS and BSS. The subject of this contract is the second phase of NBS – New Billing System. The first phase, focused only on pre-paid customers, was finalised successfully with
great commercial impact. In a period of under one year the number of pre paid subscribers in the Plus network in the Singl.eView system from Intec exceeded 2.5 million. Thanks to the implementation of the high technology from Intec, the operator could introduce a few innovative services – such as Chill Bill. In the second phase, Polkomtel operating Plus network, will connect to Singl.eView also their post paid customers. The greatest benefit for this operator in many aspects including organisational, technological as well as financial is the fact that they will have one convergent and flexible billing platform. All of their services will be settled in one billing system which will be ready to deal with any future services. Because of the synergy effect, costs of this investment are easily recoverable and the quality benefits of all services under one roof reinforce the market position of Polkomtel in the Polish market.
Iwona Golinska MBA Intec Poland
For further information about Intec Poland, please call +44 (0) 1483 745916 or visit www.intecbilling.com
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