DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 2023
“The 2023 crop was generous, but not overly so. It was in immaculate condition, making sorting almost superfluous.”
GUILLAUME D'ANGERVILLE
The cover of this year’s brochure shows the phases of the moon, taking inspiration from the biodynamic practices that Guillaume d’Angerville introduced shortly after taking over this fabled estate in 2003. The domaine was certified biodynamic in 2009.
Often regarded as an extreme form of organics, biodynamics in fact predates the organic movement by a couple of decades. It sees a vineyard as a self-sustaining organism in which, among other things, lunar movements are key.
The great domaines of Burgundy have adopted biodynamics in growing numbers over recent decades. In Guillaume’s experience, “The wines are more spherical as a result of biodynamics.” It shows a holistic respect for terroir and the resulting wines.
Team C&B tasted at the domaine last November. The 2023s are confident wines of precision and archetypal
Volnay elegance. Wines for real Burgundy lovers, with long lives ahead of them.
Guillaume has been joined by his daughter Margot, pictured here, meaning the family’s fifth and sixth generations are now working side by side. The other key team member is Régisseur François Duvivier, who joined the domaine in 2005.
Beyond the domaine, Guillaume is president of the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne, which successfully applied for the vineyards of the Côte d’Or to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015.
The notes in this offer are from our tasting in November 2024. Having added the family’s Domaine du Pélican in Jura to our roster of exclusivities last year, we look forward to an ever-closer relationship with this dynamic team.
GUY SEDDON, HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYING MARCH 2025
HISTORY
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville has been owned by the same family for more than two centuries and, over the previous three centuries, by the Dukes of Burgundy and Kings of France.
The first record of the estate, in the village of ‘Vollenay’, was in 1507.
In 1804, Baron du Mesnil acquired the Clos des Ducs and the surrounding plots — Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans — which, in the 12th century, had formed part of the famous holdings of the Dukes of Burgundy.
In the second half of the 19th century, the estate passed to Baron du Mesnil's son, Eugène du Mesnil. On his death in 1888, Eugène without direct heirs, bequeathed it to his nephew and godson, Sem, Marquis d’Angerville, then aged 15.
Sem took possession almost 20 years later, after the phylloxera crisis that ravaged the region at the end of the 19th century. From 1906, the recently renamed Domaine Marquis d’Angerville began to reconstruct its vineyards, replanting them with what are now the prized Pinot d’Angerville clones.
Sem d’Angerville was an early adopter of estate bottling and exports, which initially focussed on the United States. He was also a founding member of the National Institute of Appellations of Origin, the INAO. When he died in 1952, his son Jacques took over the domaine.
As quality driven as his father, Jacques d’Angerville expanded the domaine’s reputation and did much to raise the image of Volnay. He held positions on several Burgundian bodies, including as chairman of the BIVB (Bureau Interprofessionel des Vins de Bourgogne) predecessor. He died prematurely in July 2003, leaving behind 52 vintages and a magnificently maintained estate.
Jacques’ son Guillaume d’Angerville took over the domaine in 2003.
THE 2023 VINTAGE, IN THE WORDS OF GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE
“Thankfully, the vines resisted the rather extreme conditions of July... Are they naturally adapting? Probably. Is modern, nature-conscious viticulture helping? Certainly.”
Mild winters are no longer a surprise or a disappointment in Burgundy. We have become used to them. The cold, continental winters of the ‘60s and ‘70s seem to be gone for good. Hence, the 2022-2023 winter was in the same vein as the previous year’s: mild and dry. Temperatures were two degrees above average in January, and we started the year with a 50mm rainfall deficit.
So, at the beginning of 2023, the talk of the town was “here we go again”, all over Burgundy. 2022 had been the warmest year ever recorded, and we faced another extraordinary season in 2023.
Looking back, 2023 was indeed very hot and very dry, breaking new records in terms of sun hours, but, overall, not quite as hot as 2022. Monthly temperatures were higher than the 30-year historical averages in every month except April. Unsurprisingly, budbreak occurred in early April, around Easter weekend (9th April), when we sprayed our traditional Easter horsetail preparation (prêle de Pâques). In that same week, we saw some negative temperatures which had no impact on the vegetative cycle but caused us some anxiety.
May and June were very dry, with rainfall significantly below historical averages, contrasting with 2022, when June was twice as wet as normal. Is that evidence of weather disruption? In our books, yes. We sprayed our first 500P (manure-based, for the soil) and 501 (silica, for the vines) preparations in early and late May respectively. Flowering was underway at the beginning of June, and we estimated the mid-point around 6th June. This meant an early September harvest. The first signs of a generous crop were already visible.
We continued to suffer from the rainfall deficit through July, which saw temperatures above 35°C. Rain finally arrived in August when Volnay received approximately 85mm, significantly above average for that month.
Véraison (when the grapes turn red) started in late July and continued in early August. Similarly to 2022, mildew pressure was controlled, but oidium was a worry for a little while, between the end of June and mid-July.
Thankfully, the vines resisted the rather extreme conditions of July, as they had in 2022. Are they naturally adapting? Probably. Is modern, nature-conscious viticulture helping? Certainly. Whatever the explanation, we saw virtually no scalding of the grapes in July when the nasty hightemperature-drought combo hit.
Then, as we were finalising our preparations for the harvest, another heatwave came, which impacted the crop. It’s not over until the fat lady sings. At the end of August and early September, temperatures rose to unprecedented levels for that period, reaching close to 40°C on 24th August. September’s average temperature was 19.4°C, 3°C above 2022. We could only helplessly watch the rise in potential alcohol levels and declining acidity. We hurried to start the harvest on 4th September but had to adapt the workday to stop at 1pm every day, as afternoon temperatures were too high for picking.
The crop was generous, but not overly so. It was in immaculate condition, making sorting almost superfluous. The grape musts immediately seduced us with their beautiful aromas. Fermentation was uneventful, as was élevage.
As we write this report, the wines are still in barrel but will be prepared for bottling soon, a little earlier than usual, as we consider their barrel time is complete. They are fresh and transparent despite the slightly higher alcohol levels, and they are immediately approachable thanks to their beautiful fruit and crunchy texture. Yet again, we were surprised by the vines’ resilience in difficult climate conditions. We produced typical Volnay wines, with marked differences between terroirs.
THE VINEYARDS
“Historically, the domaine was a late picker. Now, we are among the earliest — biodynamics has made for shorter seasons.”
GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE
The Marquis d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes. These make for a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and so rich tannins, affording the wines a natural substance and presence.
The domaine’s holdings were replanted following phylloxera by Guillaume d’Angerville’s grandfather, Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906.
A century later, in 2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture. It has been certified biodynamic since 2009.
Meursault 1er Cru Santenots
20-25
Volnay Village 0.49 60-65
Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus 0.38 replanting
Volnay 1er Cru 0.97 20-25
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles
Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets
Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets
Volnay 1er Cru Champans
Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
30-35
30-35
Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru Monopole 2.15 40-45
THE VINEYARDS IN NUMBERS:
The domaine has 16.5 hectares (ha) of vines …or 6% of the total 280ha in Volnay
Of these, 12.9ha are premier cru
…which is 12% of Volnay’s total 110ha premier cru vineyards
THE CELLAR
“The wines are still in barrel but will be prepared for bottling soon, a little earlier than usual, as we consider their barrel time is complete.”
GUILLAUME D'ANGERVILLE, MARCH 2025
The grapes are 100% destemmed and transferred to vats. They are cooled before fermentation, which lasts 15-18 days, with a gradual and controlled rise in temperature, reaching a maximum of 30-32°C. Extraction focusses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching down).
Once fermented, the must is gently pressed and the wine descends by gravity into oak barrels, in the cellars directly beneath the cuverie. The maximum proportion of new oak has declined and is now around 20% for the premiers crus.
The wines remain in barrel for around 18 months; a little less for the 2023s, as per Guillaume's quote opposite. The malolactic conversion occurs in the spring or early summer following harvest.
Several weeks before bottling, the wines are transferred to tank to blend and settle. Fining and filtration are only used when absolutely necessary and only ever on a small proportion of the wine. The wines are bottled using corks from Trescases.
2023 VINTAGE TASTING NOTES
WHITE WINES
CORNEY & BARROW BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ
2023 is the fourth iteration of this special C&B bottling, which comes from 0.6 hectares of Aligoté vines below the village of Volnay, in Monpoulain. Apple and pear skin aromas herald a juicy palate of tactile orchard fruit. Pithy and quintessentially Burgundian. Bottled in June 2024, following fermentation and ageing in stainless steel.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2027
£175/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY
The domaine’s Bourgogne Chardonnay comes from clay-rich terroir beneath the village of Volnay. It offers juicy white peach and pear fruit, with a frisson of chalky minerality. This is a real over-performer in 2023, giving the Meursault a run for its money. It receives 12 months of ageing in 350 litre barrels and six additional months on its lees in vat, the second winter in the cellar bringing out a little extra richness. Bottled in early 2025.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2028
£240/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU SANTENOTS
This is from the lieu-dit Les Plures, the largest section of Santenots, which may be labelled Volnay for Pinot Noir, or Meursault for Chardonnay. The vines here are just over 30 years old. A juicy, tactile Meursault, with a building sense of chalky tension and sherbety pops of energy. Lemon zest persists on the palate, which has a long, fine, focussed, salty finish. Fabulous verve. Bottled in early 2025.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029
£695/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
As for the Bourgogne Chardonnay, the Bourgogne Pinot Noir comes from a plot on the other side of the Route Nationale, opposite the village of Volnay. These are clayrich soils. Pretty raspberry and rose petal aromas. The palate is pure and focussed, the crystalline red berry fruit sustained by fresh acidity, all framed by very fine tannins. Lovely wine. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029
£240/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOLNAY
The domaine’s village Volnay comes from Les Grands Champs (below Mitans) and, just to the south, Les Pluchots. The two plots combined cover less than half a hectare. Darkly appetising aromas of plum and bitter cherry, with roses and powdered cocoa. The raspberryfruited palate is violet-infused, with resonant energy — a voluminous and extrovert wine. No new oak is used here.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2036
£390/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU
This is a blend of two premier cru parcels, the powerful Mitans (0.65ha, of which 0.32ha are being replanted) and the sloping, free-draining Pitures. As is to be expected, this is more tightly wound than the village cuvée, offering greater intensity on the nose. The palate is classically proportioned, the dark cherry and violet flavours framed by fine, firm tannins and lifted by juicy acidity. No new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2036
£450/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DES ANGLES
Produced since 2008, the triangle-shaped Clos des Angles (hence the name) sits beneath premier cru Frémiet. It is just over a hectare in size, of which half has been replanted. There is at least a metre of clay and ferrous oxide-rich soil above the limestone here. Sweet dark berry aromas, with a lick of cedar. The palate is pure and immediate, the svelte blackberry and raspberry fruit framed by lacy, delicate tannins. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039
£580/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU FRÉMIET
Frémiet has just one foot of limestone-rich topsoil over the bedrock — which perhaps explains its intensely mineral nature. It is a mid-slope site, just above Clos des Angles, bordering Pommard. This tends to capture the more structured side of Volnay. Sweet aromas of blackberry and wild strawberry, with a frisson of chalky limestone minerality. The palate continues in the mineral vein, the pure dark berry fruit shot through with limestone tension, reinforced by fine tannins which exert a filigree grip. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2031 - 2042
£660/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£690/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS
This is a 0.62-hectare holding in Caillerets Dessus, at the top of the hill. A small, recently purchased plot is currently being replanted. It is the most southerly of the domaine’s vineyards and can have a distinctly mineral aspect, tending towards the ‘intellectual’. Dark, minerally aromas lead into a palate of seamless blackberry fruit, with a bitter cherry lift. Wonderfully poised freshness counterbalances the cool dark fruit, which builds on the mid-palate. 15% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2043
£760/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU TAILLEPIEDS
Taillepieds is a high, exposed slope to the south of the village. Its white marl sub-soil makes for wines of mineral tension, whilst 30cm of brown earth lends a certain delicacy. Lifted bitter cherry aromas herald a tightly packed palate of blackberry and cassis. Always inscrutable at this early stage, its quality is apparent in its filigree tannins and a gentle flair on the finish. Guillaume has likened Taillepieds to J.S. Bach — you have to work to understand it… “The wise man of the range, even a little austere at first sight.” I love it. 15% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2043
£760/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£790/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU CHAMPANS
The domaine is the main owner of Champans, with four hectares in two plots, separated by just 100m. This is also the domaine’s largest holding. The soils at the top resemble the mineral-rich Caillerets, whilst at the bottom, they are deeper and more ferrous. Quite shy aromatically when tasted in November 2024, like Taillepieds, letting the palate’s wonderfully fine, chalky tannins do the talking. So mineral-rich, it leaves a trail of extract behind. With time, the perfumed, peacock side will emerge. I don’t doubt it will blossom into the benchmark Volnay of its reputation. 15-20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2043
£760/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£790/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DES DUCS
Entirely owned by the domaine, the 2.15-hectare monopole Clos des Ducs stretches away behind the domaine buildings on a steep south-to-southeast-facing slope. This is a warm site of reflective white marl soils, whose underground springs provide water. An array of perfume — red, black and everything in between — with sweet-fruited elegance. The palate is ineffably fine, a crescendo of raspberry-fruited aromas framed by filigree-fine tannins. Such elegance, underpinned by mineral tension and fine texture. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2045
£730/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£510/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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