With autumn colours on the trees, Burgundy season is just around the corner By early November, we had visited around two-thirds of our producers in the region with the remainder scheduled for the end of the month We have saved some of the great na-
mes for last, so what follows is a first impression rather than the final word on the vintage
I am hugely excited about the 2024s, which are elegant and fresh. The cooler season has made for a traditional style that will appeal to Burgundy lovers seeking aroma, verve and fresh drinkability I can see ‘24 Pinot Noirs being enjoyed before the denser ‘23s The whites deliver chiselled citrus fruit with an impressive acid backbone The best examples will rival the 2014s
For those puzzled by the title, Burgundy’s 2024 spring and summer were wet This caused coulure (poor fruit set) and then mildew, which hit yields, particularly of Pinot Noir in the Côte de Nuits Some in the mildew epicentre around Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges lost 50-90% of their crop Domaine de l’Arlot’s Nuits-Saint-Georges 1 Cru Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges yielded a mere 3hl/ha – less than a tenth of normal By contrast, the hardier Chardonnay crop saw near-normal volumes in places, albeit with notable exceptions in Chablis, due to frost and hail, and parts of Puligny-Montrachet Domaine Leflaive has made around half the volume of the abundant 2023
What can we expect from the 2024
vintage? Guy
shares his initial thoughts
Max Edge offers his reflections on the Burgundy market
Aaran Eccles examines the rise of a new wave of Burgundy winemakers
Discover what Corney & Barrow has to offer this winter
er
Although the challenges were even greater than in 2021, sustained spells of sunny, breezy weather in August and September kept botrytis at bay and brought ripeness within reach, aided by the lighter crop load As Elsa Matrot at Domaine Matrot said, this ultimately saved the vintage Comparisons with 2021, as the most recent ‘cool’ vintage, are inevitable, but the 2024s I have tasted have shown greater density and panache
Jean Orsoni, at Domaine du Puy de l’Ours, spoke of September’s conditions resulting in unexpectedly high phenolic ripeness: “What we didn’t expect was having something very complete in terms of phenolic maturity ” (This despite losing 80% of the Pinot Noir crop and 40% overall)
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Equally as important as frequent vineyard treatments was rigorous sorting at harvest time Édouard Labet said they practised ‘positive’ sorting at Château de la Tour in 2024, whereby good grapes are set aside, rather than the usual ‘negative’ approach of discarding substandard berries
At some domaines, traditional hand triaging is now enhanced by automated optical and density sorters Christophe Perrot-Minot sorts whole clusters manually, whilst destemmed grapes pass through an optical sorter What a difference the technology of today’s winemakers would have made to the wines of their parents Vintages like 2024 are much the better for it
Natural, or potential, alcohol at harvest tended to fall just short of 13% abv, bolstered by the lighter crop on the vines A small amount of chaptalisation adding sugar to the grape juice or fermenting must was therefore widely practised
Acidities were higher than in 2023, both tartaric and malic. Nadine Gublin at Domaine Jacques Prieur said they had 6g/L tartaric acidity at harvest, rather than the usual 5g/L This, she said, “makes a difference” Malic acid turns to creamier lactic acid during the malolactic fermentation, whilst tartaric acid precipitates during élevage on lees The result is wines with fresh zip that will develop texture during ageing in barrel
There was less whole-bunch fermentation in 2024, due to the effect of mildew on the stems Nicolas Rossignol at Domaine Rossignol-Trapet destemmed everything for the first time since 2004 (is there some pattern to vintages ending in ‘4’ ?) However, here also, there are exceptions: Domaine Georges Glantenay has marginally increased its use of whole clusters in 2024 Our organic producers largely stuck with organic practices, out of pragmatism rather than dogma Once the full extent of the mildew became apparent, it was too late The chemical option holds real allure in such vintages: synthetic treatments circulate within the vine,
while organic sprays are washed off by the next rain shower One grower who will resist especially firmly is Pierre de Benoist of Domaine de Villaine, who introduced himself to a colleague as “very organic”
As Paul Chéron at Domaine du Couvent philosophically put it, we have had “two generous vintages working with Mother Nature also means accepting her difficult years ” Which, with thanks to Paul, leads me onto the market Much as we feel for our friends in Burgundy, a short crop in the current market is perhaps not entirely unwelcome What customers will find hard to swallow, however, is price rises As we saw in the 2021 vintage, using lower yields as justification for higher prices doesn’t wash Even more importantly, the values of comparable previous vintages should inform new release prices I say this with some awareness of the squeeze on margins for producers as well as for merchants But bottles stuck in the supply chain are no use to anyone They are made to be uncorked
At the right prices, Burgundy 2024 will be a vintage to dive into. Low yields have ensured there will be stiff competition, in particular for the top reds from the Côte de Nuits There are already plenty of wines to get excited about, and we can’t wait to taste the remainder Look out for our first release, Domaine Leflaive, out in December
Throughout our Burgundy en primeur campaign, we will be sending communications about the 2024 vintage, including offer releases If you are an Instagram user, join our Broadcast Channel to receive updates from our campaign straight into your DMs
ALL ROADS LEAD TO VOSNE
MAX EDGE SHARES HIS MARKET NOTES FROM A QUIETER SEASON
As winter settles in, the release season pauses and party season rushes in A wine merchant’s world rarely quietens, but it’s a kind of chaos we secretly relish Soirées demand Champagne, restaurant cellars need refilling, and somewhere inevitably someone is searching for a special bottle for someone even
more so Yet beneath the festive clatter, another current hums quieter, but unmistakable Burgundy approaches, and its gravitational pull tilts attention back to the Côte
There was a time when Bordeaux spoke for the fine wine world almost entirely one region, one benchmark, one reference point for an entire market Burgundy’s ascent changed that and changed the culture around wine with it
As global interest grew, so did the appetite for nuance: precision over power, terroir expression over template A broader wine world blossomed Champagne, Rioja, Napa, Tuscany, the Rhône each carving out space and a share of the conversation And yet, amid that widening map, Burgundy became the emotional apex With its intricate patchwork of vineyards, its emphasis on place, patience, and the deft touch of the vigneron battling against Mother Nature’s meanness Burgundy’s story resonated The region grew into significance a place people arrive at not by accident but by evolution and those who arrive often never leave.
For a while, Burgundy was the market’s fever dream scarcity turned spectacle New producers were unearthed, quality soared and demand outpaced reason Allocations became competition, and bottles once destined for dinner became commodities of curiosity, traded more often than they were opened
That heat couldn’t last and hasn’t The market has softened, and with it, the narrative of eternal scarcity has been quietly questioned Prices have corrected, though not collapsed Some may not have fallen enough to reawaken the market, but there are corners where a sense of equilibrium is returning accessibility, whether in availability or price, has crept back into view
“Buyers have been afforded patience. They still care deeply about Burgundy, but they’re buying with intent rather than impulse”
Buyers have been afforded patience They still care deeply about Burgundy, but they’re buying with intent rather than impulse taking time, weighing worth and looking again at vintages or producers that had slipped from view The frenzy may have faded, but the fascination has not
Even in a calmer market, all roads seem to lead to Vosne Long the aspirational destination for many enthusiasts’ “wine journey”, this small village remains Burgundy’s heartbeat an elusive mix of perfume and power, grace and gravity Its ten Grands Crus, four of them monopoles, and a constellation of Premier Crus, give VosneRomanée a mythology all its own Generations of legendary winemakers past and present have only deepened its pull
Confidence in the very top names remains unshaken In fact, as broader market prices have softened, followers have quietly circled back to these most revered vineyards Where some wines may be stranded at high market prices, Vosne has, in its way, reasserted equilibrium the epicentre drawing its orbit back in And when markets turn, the road to Vosne will surely become a well-trodden path once more Yet the pattern of everrising release prices not just in Burgundy means not everyone is chasing that same journey. Increasingly, it is the idea of Vosne instead the purity, the poise, the emotional pull that guides people in their search for great wine, wherever they can find it Vosne remains the philosophy; the map just keeps widening
After years of frenzy and a couple of soggy seasons, there are signs of steadiness Confidence in Burgundy feels firmer; prices are finding their level, and buyers are coming back to the table The chase has eased into more of a conversation
In that dialogue, relationships and provenance remain the anchors There are wines that will always attract attention, but far more that are better off in a decanter than a warehouse The market may have softened, but the wines haven’t Drinkers still want the best bottles in their cellars, and producers continue to refine, whatever nature throws at them Release prices may continue to spark short-term debate, but Burgundy doesn’t do short-term The best bottles prove their worth slowly to those who think, and drink, with patience Before a new year brings fresh tastings, vintage previews and the next wave of en primeur offers, it’s worth pausing to see why all roads still seem to lead here: a region rebalanced, a market regaining its rhythm, and wines reminding us that fascination doesn’t fade When it comes to Burgundy, there’s always something to talk about
A VIEW FROM THE EDGE
IN SEARCH OF VALUE
Some argue that Burgundy and value can’t reasonably appear in the same sentence unless it’s a sales pitch for another Pinot Noir region But in fine wine, value is more than a low price It’s proportion the balance between what a wine gives, what it asks, and how long its story lingers once the cork is pulled.
As merchants, we love bringing the best forward guiding customers towards bottles that deliver clarity, character and charm Burgundy will always have a price, and perhaps value here is better framed as worth
What makes a Burgundy worth it? All of the above, certainly, but also a movement towards sustainability, lower yields, respect for nuance, a dash of hype and, topping the lot, sheer deliciousness
Sometimes that worth lies in recalibrating expectations: trading up in producer but down in hierarchy A Bourgogne Rouge or village-level cuvée from a great domaine can show more truth and texture than a grander wine from a name chasing its neighbour Access to old vines, meticulous farming and the quiet confidence of great winemakers can turn socalled “entry-level” bottles into some of Burgundy’s most rewarding expressions
Other times, it’s not about chasing It’s about finding the vignerons who’ve quietly earned their place among the region’s most consistent and compelling voices their wines still speak clearly, even if their labels don’t shout Then there are the communes that were once insider choices, now finding a wider following: Savigny-lès-Beaune, Marsannay, Nuits-Saint-Georges all rewarding the curious and reminding us that great Burgundy doesn’t have to mean grand prices
In the market, there’s plenty of value to discover: for whites, back vintages like 2018 and 2015 are gaining in personality and stepping out from the long shadows of the much-hyped ’14s and ’17s They may not be built for the ages, but the market still undervalues them
For reds, 2017s are graceful, balanced and readily available 2011s from the Côte de Nuits are finding their stride, their once-green edge now largely dissolved And for pure, immediate pleasure, 2007s remain open, charming and ready to pour
Max Edge is part of Corney & Barrow’s Fine Wine Broking Team With a close focus on the secondary market, Max brings insight to inform colleagues and customers
BURGUNDY’S YOUNG GUNS
Idon’t think it will come as a surprise to anyone that we are Burgundy lovers at Corney & Barrow We are forever keeping our ears to the ground and eyes
family story behind it, and therefore it is great to highlight the best of the new and young(ish) faces that are making us so excited about the new era The wines have ascended to a new level and it’s a joy to be able to shout about how delicious they are!
DOMAINE DU COUVENT
Based in Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Chéron family were joint owners of Domaine des Varoilles before absorbing the holdings in 2020 to form Domaine du Couvent Paul Chéron has increasingly taken over the reins from his father Philippe from 2020 and the wines have unctuous fruit and haunting perfume. Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux is a plot which used to form part of Henri Jayer’s Vosne-Romanée Village, so this is quite hallowed terroir above Richebourg! Paul believes whole bunch ferments should be dialled down on limestone soils as is the case here, leading to mineral-driven, pristine blackberry fruit
DOMAINE
DU PUY DE L’OURS
Juliette Puyperoux and Jean Orsoni gave up city life in 2019 to establish Puy de l’Ours in Savigny-lès-Beaune Juliette is from Burgundy and her family retained their estate’s vineyards and rented out the land from 2004, before the 3 5 hectares were reclaimed by Jean and Juliette and the domaine started to take shape The Pinots are bright and cherry-laden with Clos des Godeaux being totally destemmed, this is pure fruit Pinot and sappy tannins, everything delightful Savignylès-Beaune should be Louise Lachaux helps design the couple’s label ideas artfully
DOMAINE TRAPET
The domaine of Gevrey-Chambertin I am most excited about Three generations are actively involved at the estate presently, with Pierre and Louis Trapet being the bright young presences advising their father, JeanLouis The holdings of the domaine are as good as it gets in Gevrey, all the way from village to grand cru, but there is a maniacal dedication to quality with the domaine spending over a million euros in the vineyard recently to convert the vines to echalas staking The wines are magnificent: luminous fruit and soaring perfumes with textured tannins
DOMAINE GEORGES GLANTENAY
Sarah and Guillaume Glantenay represent the fourth generation of a domaine that traces its roots back to the 17 century The family have vineyards across Volnay, Pommard and Chambolle-Musigny and are mostly focussed on reds, with 90% of the vineyards planted with Pinot Noir. The Volnay Vielles Vignes is where I see the sustainable methods the brother and sister use gaining traction, old vines being carefully cultivated to give a Volnay of depth, with black and red fruit and fine, fresh acids Volnay and Pommard are always so underrated so it’s a joy to see this family showcasing the villages th
DOMAINE JEAN-BAPTISTE BOUDIER
A new addition to our range from Pernand-Vergelesses, Jean-Baptiste took over his family domaine in 2017 and has 6 5ha around the hill of Corton Jean-Baptiste makes some wonderful Grand Crus, but the Savigny-lèsBeaune is a perfect starting point to see his style of winemaking Black forest fruits, supple tannins, fresh acids a lovely drinker for the table!
BUY OUR BURGUNDY YOUNG GUNS SELECTION FOR £300 INSTEAD OF £347
2024: WE HAVE LIFT-OFF
As you’re reading this article I will start with a bold assumption you like Burgundy Whether you drink it with keen passion, have a favourite grape
or have even delved into the world of production methods, you’re in the right place But when terms like en primeur in conjunction with a clustered map of the Côte d’Or come around, confusion abounds I m not surprised! Understanding the intricacies of each village from this most famous of wine-producing regions is no easy feat! But do not despair In this brief guide I will attempt to shine a light on these terms and make a positive case for buying Burgundy en primeur
To start, grape varieties make it somewhat easier for us to get to grips with the region, as the vast majority of Burgundy’s crus are dominated by either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay Although encountering the world of terroir and microclimates is intimidating, when choosing a particular village or sub-region to focus on, just follow your nose (and tastebuds) there are no
If you generally prefer white wines, welcome to Côte de Beaune! Here you will find some of the world’s most renowned white wine vineyards (think Montrachet and co ), with perennial favourites like Domaine François Carillon, as well as outstanding value in the hidden slopes of Saint-Aubin, or vineyards encircling the historic town of Beaune Moving further south, don’t discount the Aligoté grown in Côte Chalonnaise, where some of the finest producers devote a huge amount of attention to this ancient variety none other than Aubert de Villaine was instrumental in creating an Aligoté-only Bouzeron appellation, with his passion for this variety represented in Domaine de Villaine
If red wine tickles your fancy, a great place to start is the Côte de Nuits Marsannay a small village whose vineyards border the outskirts of Dijon is at the
northern end of the appellation Interesting fact Marsannay is the only village appellation in Burgundy allowed to produce rosé wines (look out for Domaine Joseph Roty and their Marsannay rosé) With its northern location, reds from Marsannay often offer fresh, redfruited wines of elegance Great-value sites such as Domaine du Couvent’s Clos du Roy are of 1er Cru mint in all but name (and yet can be found for around £200 IB per case of 6!)
Rather fortunately, the 2024 vintage has the benefit of being a great place to start It follows a warm, yet outstanding 2022 and an almost “goldilocks” growing season in 2023 Whilst it’s hard to play down the challenges producers faced in 2024, the fact that the wines produced are generally fresher and more approachable in their youth creates an opening for an under-the-radar vintage that delivers charm and character. Whites are leaner, characterful and supported by strict acidity, making for a perfect introduction to the homeland of Chardonnay
Volnay Vieilles Vignes Domaine Georges Glantena
AARAN ECCLES LOOKS AT A NEW GENERATION OF BURGUNDY WINEMAKERS
Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux Domaine du Couvent 2022
WHAT DOES EN PRIMEUR MEAN?
What does en primeur actually mean? It is a way of accessing new releases at the first instance. As soon as Corney & Barrow receive their allocation for the UK market, we offer the wines to you It also means that the vast majority of these wines are still maturing underground in their Burgundian homeland Another benefit is that, thanks to our ability to store the wines In Bond, you don’t have to pay duty and VAT until you take delivery Usually, wines from the 2024 vintage will start to arrive in the UK in the summer/autumn of 2026, up to early 2027 So, where should you start when deciding whether to take the plunge and buy Burgundy en primeur this year?
1 Read Guy Seddon’s excellent vintage report summarising the 2024 growing season
2 Have a look at Aaran Eccles’ spotlight of Burgundy’s Young Guns stirring the waters
3 Don’t hesitate to get in touch with us! Our sales team is always on hand to share the offers as they come out, making sure you don’t miss your favourite producer, or the chance to try something new
4 When the offers are released, pick what you like! It’s great to start with a regional or village staple For example, a red Volnay from Domaine Georges Glantenay or Bourgogne Côte d'Or Chardonnay from François Carillon
5 If you have no space to keep the wines once they arrive in the UK, don’t despair, we
store them for you until you decide to pop the cork
SPECIAL OFFER
DOMAINE DE LA JOBELINE 2019
Domaine de la Jobeline, with its exceptional vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1957, was recently acquired by legendary Burgundy producer, Domaines Leflaive A glowing endorsement if there ever was one
Following extensive soil analysis, Domaine de la Jobeline’s previous owners spent more than 12 years renovating and replanting their vineyards This unwavering commitment to quality is set to continue under Domaines Leflaive, with the estate now being converted to organic and biodynamic agriculture
MÂCON-VERZÉ "EN PRÉVISY" 2019
Joyful apricot and orange blossom aromas lead into a ripe palate of fleshy yellow peach fruit and grapefruit Nice tactile bite to the finish Fermented half in stainless steel tanks and half in oak barrels of varying ages with regular bâtonnage
Bottle £27.50 £23.37
Case of 6 £165 £140.25
USE CODE HALFFULL15
THE BURGUNDY CROSSWORD
3 The most northerly sub-region of Burgundy, famed for its Chardonnay (7)
If you’d like to find out more about the en primeur system, we have compiled a handy guide with answers to frequently asked questions, tips, and storage info Scan the QR code to read our guide
