Domaine Trapet, 2020 Vintage En Primeur

DOMAINE TRAPET

DOMAINE TRAPET 2020

This is a ‘late release’ of the 2020 vintage which, as of last year, is how the domaine’s wines are now offered. An extra year in bottle makes the wines easier to assess and ensures they finish their barrel ageing in as unhurried a manner as possible.

The family-run Domaine Trapet is thriving, with three generations actively involved at present, following the recent return of Jean-Louis and Andrée Trapet’s sons Pierre (born 1992) and Louis (1994). Keeping a watchful eye on them all is patriarch Jean Trapet.

The domaine’s holdings are about as good as it gets in and around Gevrey-Chambertin. Delve below the grands and premiers crus and you find the beating heart of this biodynamic estate: village Gevreys and Marsannays of luminescent fruit and soaring perfume.

The tasting notes in this offer are from a tasting at the domaine in March 2022. Adam Brett-Smith and I visited Jean-Louis for what is, for me, one of the standout tastings of the year. The proportion of vines trellised on single poles, or échalas, continues to grow across the estate. An interesting cellar innovation this year is a glass ‘wine globe’ ageing vessel, which the team are trialling.

Whole-bunch fermentation continues to be used to great effect at the domaine. This now involves the hugely labour-intensive technique of removing the central stem from each bunch, to avoid extracting the more astringent phenolic components. Along with the strict adherence to biodynamics, this is an example of just how much hard work goes into the ‘effortless’ elegance of Domaine Trapet.

We are proud to represent Domaine Trapet in the UK.

Next in the lineup of C&B Burgundy releases is the much-loved Domaine Trapet, whose wines we have imported since the 1960s.

THE 2020 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE TRAPET

TRAPET,

Jean-Louis Trapet told us how harvest in 2020 was drawn out over an unusually long period of three weeks. Picking started on 26th August and finished on 14th September, with the Aligoté. The average alcohol level at the domaine in 2020 is 13.5% abv.

Here is Jean-Louis’ description of the 2020 growing season…

While the whole world was confined to their homes and life was put on hold, the vine remained constant and majestic, continuing its unabated development.

2020 was marked by a historically mild winter, breaking records and confirming the trend set out in 2019. The slightly low water tables from the previous year were able to recover quickly, as a wet winter ensued.

Driven by such mild conditions, the vines jumped into life early and the first buds started to appear towards the end of February. The precocious nature of the season was made evident in April, a memorable time for all as sunny conditions persisted whilst in Covid isolation. May could have been mistaken for June with its balmy weather, save for the occasional but welcome shower. Flowering was uniform and well underway by mid-May and on 25th May, the distinct, heady fragrance of the inflorescences started to fade, signalling the start of fruit-set. There was little-to-no pressure from downy or powdery mildew. For the time being, it all felt quite serene.

June, however, provoked a sense of anxiety as storms passed over Meursault and one closer to us in GevreyChambertin. The summer was hot and dry, and véraison commenced at the beginning of July. At last, the first longawaited berries, the fruits of the year's work started to appear, offering themselves to the contemplative eye. The month of July recorded 320 sunshine hours, compared to an average of 150, with temperatures on average 1°C higher than normal. These hot, drought-like conditions made for differences in maturity from plot to plot.

The heatwave of the week of 19th July forced us to organise our work differently, and we opted to start work early “in the cool!” Finally, on 22nd August, there was a saving rain in which the vines (and we) delighted. Everything comes to those who wait... and for the sensitive winegrower, now came the time of waiting, meticulous checking and analysis.

Each year we have a family ritual of heading into the vineyard in small teams to taste our beautiful grapes from our different plots. Moving from South to North, “chewing” the blue sun-drenched grapes, we start to develop a taste and feel for the vintage by the texture of the tannins, sweetness of the pulp and astringency of the pips.

“The taste of the Gevrey Chambertin grapes seems to have changed," Pierre and Louis remarked... prompting Jean Trapet to contemplate the real question at hand: “to harvest early or to harvest late?"

Eventually we began harvesting on Wednesday 26th August with some of our newer parcels in the Côte de Beaune. We also decided to spread out the harvest, only picking on certain mornings to keep freshness and capture the tannins at their optimum maturity.

The signature of 2020 is the “Burgundian” acidity, which brings relief and freshness – this natural tension is the unmistakable mark of these wines and of this extraordinary vintage. As an extension of the particularities of its birth, the élevage of this 2020 is slow and regular, allowing for a harmonious development of its amplitude and complexity.

Bottled between the end of May and June 2022, the wines are ample and show a broad aromatic range that will be admired by many. For us as winegrowers, the story of this vintage is crowned by the work of patience which exalts us.

«Une année qui marquera les esprits! »

“A year that will mark the spirits!”

JEAN-LOUIS

APRIL 2022

Chambertin

Latricières-Chambertin

HECTARES PLANTED

Grand Cru 1.90 1919*

Grand Cru 0.75 1938*

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 0.60 1945*

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur

Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Gevrey-Chambertin

Premier Cru 0.40 1965

Premier Cru 0.40 1965

Village 3.00 1913*

Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea Village 2.50 1913*

Marsannay Rouge Village 1.50 1979

Marsannay Blanc Village 0.50 1979 Bourgogne Bourgogne 3.85 Various

* Refers to original date of planting, although due to the age of these plots, a significant number of vines have been replanted.

TASTING NOTES

White Wine

MARSANNAY BLANC

This comes from a lieu-dit called Grasses Têtes, towards the south of Marsannay, one of the contenders for premier cru status once this is introduced. 87% Chardonnay, 13% Pinot Beurot (the Burgundian name for Pinot Gris). A wine of stony minerality, with yellow flower perfume and ripe peach fruit, a sure bet for early drinking.

Corney & Barrow Score 17

Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2026

£180/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Tasting Guide

Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

Red Wines

BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAINS A MINIMA

Like the Marsannay Blanc, this comes from the lieudit Grasses Têtes, just outside Gevrey-Chambertin. 50% Gamay and 50% Pinot Noir. Planted in 1965 in two separate parcels by Louis and Jean Trapet, Jean-Louis’ grandfather and father respectively. A wine of purity and minimal intervention. Ripe, sweet dark fruit aromas –raspberry coulis and bitter cherry. The palate is crunchy and so pure, with a sweet pliancy and very supple tannins. Jean-Louis says this costs more to produce than he makes from selling it – so you must buy some!

Corney & Barrow Score 17+

Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2028

£105/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

BOURGOGNE ROUGE

The domaine’s Bourgogne Rouge comes from a selection of parcels, including in Marsannay and Gilly-lèsCiteaux, alongside a holding of Christophe Roumier, which produces very small millerand berries. Darkly fruited, with a briny focus and dark peppery spices. 40% whole bunch fermented and bottled just before the 2021 harvest.

Corney & Barrow Score 17

Recommended drinking from 2023 -2026

£135/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES LE MEIX FRINGUET

This is a 0.40 hectare holding, just to the north of the Gevrey boundary, on the border with Brochon, almost a monopole. Apparently, ‘Meix’ means a garden alongside a house. It has been made by the domaine for around a decade. Aromas of violets and blue flowers. The medium bodied palate is upbeat and peppery, with raspberry fruit and delicate dried spices. No new oak: this is aged in 2-4 year old barrels.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+

Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2030

£175/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY

The domaine’s Marsannay comes from three parcels, 60% of which are in the would-be premier cru zone. Marsannay has a little more clay than Gevrey-Chambertin, explaining this wine’s more assertive, supple style. An aromatic delight in 2020 – soaringly red-berried and open, with forest fruits and sous-bois herbaceousness. The palate is juicy and almost chewable – so succulent – with ripe raspberry and plushly fruit-coated tannins.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2028

£175/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN

The Trapet family’s village-level holdings in GevreyChambertin cover four hectares, with ten individual parcels dotted across various terroirs. Pure blackberry aromas, with fine earthy minerality and dark peppery spices. The palate is refined and finely detailed, with perfume lingering on the long finish. 50% whole bunch fermentation. Fabulous wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2032

£335/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE OSTREA

Ostrea is a cuvée made from two hectares and 50 rows, spread over four parcels in the north of Gevrey, towards Brochon. The oldest vines, having been planted before the First World War, in 1913, contribute a core of intense Pinot fruit. More perfumed, playful and red fruited than the regular Gevrey, this has an extra layer of flair. 100% whole bunch fermentation in 2020.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+

Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035

£395/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE 1859

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, originally planted in 1859. Pierre and Louis Trapet, the sixth generation of Trapets in Gevrey, wanted to pay homage to their ancestors with this cuvée, now in its second vintage. This abounds in ‘whole-bunch’ spicy lift and verve, with aromas of small red berries. The palate is saline and defined, with supple raspberry fruit. 100% whole bunch fermentation, the bunches’ central stems having been painstakingly removed by hand.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5

Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035

£495/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE

This is a 0.4 hectare parcel in Petite Chapelle, which lies just beneath Chapelle-Chambertin. Raspberry compote aromas, with cedar and sweet spices. The palate is juicy and succulent, gourmand and generous, with salty-mineral definition. A linear, fine finish. The spicy whole-bunch character, from 70% whole cluster fermentation, makes for a particularly elegant, attractive Petite Chapelle.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18+

Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037

£750/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS PRIEUR

Clos Prieur is a stony vineyard, the continuation of MazisChambertin. This 0.4 hectare holding, which consists of two plots, was purchased by the domaine in 1893. Finely perfumed, violet and rose petal aromas. The palate is both densely fruited and white-peppery, with an aromatic lift and sappy spices. 70% whole-bunch vinification.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038

£750/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CAPITA

A 100% whole-bunch super-cuvée, made from two premier cru parcels: Les Corbeaux (just south of the town) and Hergots/Ergot (part of Petite Chapelle). The total holding is 0.6 hectares. This was first made in 2003 and appears only when conditions permit. The name Capita comes from the Latin for ‘head’. This is the final Capita: from 2021, the plots will be vinified separately. Sweet spices, greater maturity of fruit and volume, this is a higher-octane style of Gevrey, with power, grip and drive.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2040

£750/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A stone's throw from Clos de Bèze, there used to be a small chapel here, built in 1155. Fine clay and limestone soils make for fine, rich, expressive wines. Only two thirds of the domaine’s 0.6 hectares in Chapelle-Chambertin are currently in production. The vines are nearly 60 years old on average. Sweet, cedary spices, with white pepper and a bright, assertively red-fruited profile. Luminous.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5

Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040

£2,575/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

The heart of this 0.75 hectare parcel was bought in 1904 by Jean-Louis’ great-grandfather, in the year of his son’s birth. It was the first of the domaine’s grands crus, in which the oldest plantings date from 1938. Latricières is fabulously sited on gravelly soils, close to the Combe Grisard, from which cool air flows. This makes for a longer growing season which, in turn, can enhance intensity and complexity. Violets and dark cherry fruit herald the darker, more sauvage side of Gevrey. The palate is saltymineral and with firm grippy tannins – a wine of stature.

Corney & Barrow Score 19

Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040

£2,575/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

Bought in 1919, this enviable 1.9 hectare holding in the great grand cru of Gevrey consists of three parcels. At the bottom of the slope, there is limestone and marl, then fine clay and, higher up, white marl, which slows down the growing cycle. Sweet ripe dark berry fruit aromas, cossetting and luxurious, with violet and crushed rose petals. The palate is transparent, with that Trapet luminosity of fruit which permeates the wines from the A Minima to this grandest of grands crus. Crushed rose perfume on the long, tapering finish.

Corney & Barrow Score 19+ Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2045

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