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bimonthly magazine ● vol.58 ● May-June 2017

Pic kt Pe he r fe ct ai r


patented scale technology (now available as an option on the strada av)

• know the precise dose in the cup • • program the dose on the basis of weight in the cup rather than volume • • visualize the time (in seconds) and weight (in grams) on the display while brewing • • provide a great educational tool when training baristas •

www.lamarzocco.com


Content 06 Editorial

COFFEE ADDICTED

TEA AND ICED

CATCH UP

54 Cover Story

94 Tea

08 World News

A Primer on Tea Pairings

Dancing Tea

12 Product

54

COFFEE LIFE 14 Who to follow 16 Coffee & Five Sense · Taste 22 Design 23 Cafe Around World

102

Coffee & Food: Match Made in Heaven

What Grows Together Goes

How to Buy Tea

Together ●

26 Cafe Hopping

Cafe Dinner Party

From Russia With Love

Rising Moscow Coffee Scene

THAIFEX 2017

Coffee Meets Vietnam

London Coffee Festival 2017

68 Trade Show

106 Iced ●

Open A Gelato Shop in China

Gelato Recipe

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38 People ●

Nguyen Tuan Dung :Vietnam Specialty Coffee Pioneer

76 Management ●

Essentials of Coffee Service

49 Latte Art 50 Drinks

80 CTI Class ●

D.I.Y Extraction Tasting

52 Special Report ●

110

Girl Power

Father’s Day: Say “Thank You” With Coffee

Ice Cream From All Around The world

84 Origin ●

New Level of Myanmar Coffee


Editorial

With summer coming we decided to do something fresh and dedicated this issue to food pairings. As people tend to pair food with wine, we wanted to show that food is the perfect match for coffee and tea; starting with the very beginning of coffee&food pairing and traditional matches and ending with our own little experiment, we wanted to show that taste is a very subjective feeling and you are free to mix and match as much as you want and cook with coffee. Moreover, food pairing is important not only for our taste buds, but also for managing a coffee shop as customers want more than just a good coffee nowadays. Talking about the coffee shops, we were lucky to witness rising coffee scene of Moscow City, cold Russian capital welcomed us with warm cup of coffee and interesting coffee places that we are ready to share in this issue. This time we did not want to forget to congratulate your loved ones as Father’s and Mother’s days are coming, so our team prepared a very special gift list for your parents or for anyone else, we hope you like it as we do. There are also tea and ice cream articles that we plan to explore even more to bring you brighter experience. Finally, we are happy to inform that now Coffee T&I is available in Australia, Indonesia and south Korea and we are glad to be growing and bringing you the best of coffee. Dasha Kartasheva

I would love to hear your ideas for next issues and we are always open for new contributors: cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com Make sure you follow Coffee t&i on Facebook and Instagram /CoffeeMagazine and @coffeeteaimag

Managing Editor Sam Tanadej Kamonchan sam@blueskybooks.net Coffee t&i ( China ) Chief Editor: Nicole Ou English Editor: Dasha Kartasheva Chinese Editor: Echo Lou Editorial Team: Faye Hu, Cindy Ning, Yazmin Su Graphic Designer: Hanna, Hailong Fang Blue Sky Books Team Bodin Amornpattanakul Thitiwat Deeyuadying Sutdrip Jenny Wang Vachapon Thisadeeruk Publisher Coffee t&i (China) RM1103B, No.222 Huaihai Zhong Rd., Huangpu District Shanghai, China Tel: +86 21 6333 9299 Email: cti@coffeetimagazine.com The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher

Contributors Leo Huang Founder of Chiangmai Rainforest Coffee project; Specialty coffee person, focus on cross-culture coffee education program Qiaowen Wu CTO of HiangKie Coffee training school

To update Coffee Society news, please visit

Michalis Dimitrakopoulos 2016 World Coffee in Good Spirit Champion Keith Pech Certified Arabica Q Grader & Manager Yiping London based baritsa and column writer, full-time fun seeker Matthew Perger 2012 World Brewing Champion; Founder of Braista Hustle

www.facebook.com/CoffeeMagazine

Mikhail Sebastian Origin explorer, who has visited coffee farms in Rwanda, Ethiopia, Cuba, Ecuador, Brazil, Panama, Guatemala, and El Salvador Love Chan Tea expert from Taiwan Fei Liu Tea Master from Fujian Province

www.youtube.com/coffeetandi


World News

The first colorless coffee We all know that to have a perfect natural smile we need to sacrifice something, like drinking less tea or coffee. While we have green tea, it was quite a problem to say ‘No’ to coffees. Luckily, we all live in a 21st century and scientists have done a lot for keeping our teeth white, including new Clear Coffee, which is the first colorless coffee drink in the world. The innovation claims to be made out of high quality Arabica coffee beans and pure water. One more thing no one thought could be possible! www.clrcff.com

Loring signs exclusive distribution agreement with Shanghai fortunecaffe co. March 28, 2017, Loring Smart Roast Inc. announced that Shanghai Fortunecaffe, Co. is now the exclusive distributor of Loring coffee roasters and accessories in China and Hong Kong. With this new relationship, Loring looks to strengthen its position in Asia’s growing specialty coffee industry by offering high quality, efficient and eco-friendly roasting products. In addition to sales, Shanghai Fortunecaffe will provide support services to customers in China and Hong Kong utilizing factory trained technicians. “The China market represents an exciting opportunity for us,” said Dennis Vogel, Director of Marketing and Sales for Loring Smart Roast. “We expect that the growing interest in specialty coffee will translate into increased demand for precise and efficient coffee roasting machines. ” www.loring.com

Starbucks reserve coffee bar opens in Singapore The first Starbucks Reserve Coffee Bar opened in Singapore. Where guests can enjoy coffee from all around the world brewed in any way: Nitro Cold Brew, Chemex, Syphon and of course espresso from Black Eagle machine. If you are in Singapore do not miss the opportunity to try the best of Starbucks.

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The perfect brew ratio

www.victoriaarduino.com


World News

Ice cream museum opens in LA First Ice Cream Museum opened earlier this year in NYC. This time LA version will be four times bigger and according to museum officials it will have be made up of mostly completely new installations: the interactive exhibit, which includes an ice cream scoop teeter-totter, wall of waffle cones, immersive chocolate room, and swimmable pool filled with sprinkles. Created by 24-year-old Maryellis Bunn and 36-year-old Manish Vora, the exhibit sold 30,000 tickets in just five days at the original location across from the Whitney Museum in NYC. Yeah, that’s some serious action in a short amount of time. And make sure you have Instagram at the ready — those neon signs and rainbow sprinkles are far too photogenic. www.museumoficecream.com

Coffee market : weakening due to high exports and increasing inventory levels

the market remained well supplied as export levels in the period October 2016 to February 2017 were higher than the year before. In combination with an increasingly positive outlook for the 2017/18 crop, the market currently lacks any strong signals to reverse from its current gradual decline.

In March, the ICO composite indicator price fell slightly. While Robusta remained stable, Arabica prices were under pressure. Despite the poor Robusta harvest in Brazil and Vietnam, Market weakens further due to high exports and increasing inventory  levels    In  March,  the  ICO  composite  indicator  price  fell  slightly.  While  Robustas  remained  broadly  stable, Arabica prices  were under  pressure. Despite the poor Conilon/Robusta harvest in  Brazil and  Vietnam, the market remained well supplied as export levels in the period October 2016 to February  2017 were higher than the year before, while inventories in importing countries continued to grow. In  combination with an increasingly positive outlook for the 2017/18 crop, the market currently lacks any  strong signals to reverse from its current gradual decline. 

Brighter future for coffee production

Lastly, it  should  be  noted  that  at  its  119th  Session  held  from  13  to  17  March  2017,  the  International Coffee Council appointed Mr José Dauster Sette of Brazil to the post of Executive Director  of the ICO for a five‐year term from 1 May 2017. 

A new coffee variety called Starmaya may dramatically shift prospects for coffee producers. It was developed through a collaboration between coffee-industry leader ECOM and French Agricultural Research Centre for International Development (CIRAD). Starmaya is the first variety of its kind: An F1 hybrid that is propagated by seed, rather than through costly biotechnology, it means that most of the farmers will be able to access an elite class of varieties that could reshape the industry.

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Choose Experience. Choose BUNN.

Your beverage menu requires equipment that is consistently reliable and precise. bunn.com


Product

WEGA Light Up Your Coffee With The Polaris A product with character, capable of lending personality to any location, it is one of the most reliable in its category when it comes to mechanics. The new Polaris boasts a streamlined and futuristic body, back-lit keypad systems which lend elegance to the front controls, and a mesmerising play of white or RGB LED lights on the side panel. It couldn’t be simpler: all you have to do is take your machine’s remote, turn it on and press the “mode” button. The first few clicks will change the rhythm of the lights in different settings, after which the machine will start to follow the bass notes of the music sample that the integrated microphone picks up in the background. Light up your coffee! www.wega.it

LADETINA Ferrari FT3 After the development and innovation in the past ten years,Ladetina launched new FT3 to lead the intelligent trend for its technical breakthrough. FT3 takes inherit the Ferrari sport car design, black and white panel buttons reminds touching piano keys. The multifunctional touch screen gives barista all data in real time to offer customer the best espresso. The display for each group shows barista the temperatures of the steam boilers, coffee, the delivery time and the amount of liquid in the cup. Besides, the “Cool- Touch” wand guarantees barista to avoid burning and also includes brewing light, hot and cold water outlet, steam control valve setting and boiler insulation.

UNIC New TANGO ® ACE The super-automatic TANGO® ACE by UNIC has the strength of a great performer: precise Ditting grinders, patented TANGO® brew group calibrated and controlled via the 7” color touch screen, letting you create up to 48 drinks menu. With its effective auto-cleaning program, and appreciated professional assets such as a built-in cups storage space, TANGO® ACE is the perfect multitasking machine for coffee chains and corners.

www.coffeedz.com

www.unic.fr

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Who to follow

Beans

Beans

gordi.id

Coffee curation service. Delivering variety of selected.

Equipment

chemexlove Chemex Coffee lovers community.

Equipment

Foodpairing

food52 Very visual food blog

addictedtodates Plant based recipe blog

Coffee curation service. Delivering variety of selected.

milklabco CAn Australian Milk ColLABoration

caffeinecouture Coffee and Patisserie Around the world

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20mlespresso Fortch Renda- Disave Espresso Equipment.

Foodpairing

Lifestyle

A green coffee importer located in France, and coffee just like wine, is an art that is accomplished with passion.

Equipment

Foodpairing

Foodpairing

3temp

thecoffeebean

foodpairing Food pairing project, helping chefs.

Lifestyle

mrvahn Blog of coffee, food and everything in between


Coffee & Five Sense Story/ Qiaowen Wu

F I V E

S E N S E S

O F

C O F F E E

TASTE In previous 2 issues we explored the role of senses of touch and smell in coffee tasting. Comparing to these senses, taste may be the most important one. This time we will talk more about the role of the gift of taste.

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Feeling the world by every breath When we talk about coffee tasting, many people think it is very far from his/her daily life. Actually, it happens almost every second in our lives. For example, in order to survive, we need to absorb essential substance by eating or drinking. This tasting process has been repeating itself, which is something we all take for granted. Do you still remember last time that you enjoyed your breakfast? The moment without any interruption for cellphone, television or magazines, but concentrating on having a meal in different dimensions - smell aroma, experiencing the moisturizing feeling from egg white by biting the fresh fried egg, feel the crispy, salty and vegetable green by chewing the cornichon…A simple taste leaves you a wonderful impression. Of course, sometimes it happens that you are late somewhere and chew something very fast while working in a hurry, checking the news unconsciously, surrounded by the incessant vehicles. The flavor of food is there, but you just eat it very quickly without tasting.

sweet aftertaste”. From these, we can notice that there have been done a lot of studies on wine and tea, professions like Chief Sommelier and Tea Taster were also created long time ago.

BITTER SOUR

SOUR

SALTY

SALTY SWEET

Everyone is able to taste In sensory tasting world, coffee is the least discovered topic, compared to wine and tea. Even if we are not experts in this, we always hear somebody talking like “this wine is rich in tannin” or “this tea has a long

But let’s come back to coffee. Coffee by itself has fruit acid inside! Frankly speaking, during my 8 years’ working experience in specialty coffee, the first reaction of 80% people who heard acid is “ what do you mean, I want bitter coffee, I think only bitter coffee is the real coffee!” People who are interested in the topic, can always look it up in the web using words “specialty coffee cupping” and “specialty coffee”. Hope information about flavor wheel, aromas’ bottles, TDS, extraction ratios etc will not scare you away. In my teaching career, around 95% of students started their self-introduction by saying “I am not that expert like you, so…”, I am not sure whether it is a spontaneous expression or it is because they want to find an excuse for unexpected results by giving a “warning” in advance. Here, I want to emphasize that

Everyone has the tasting capability.

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Coffee & Five Sense

Cupping & flavor description first approach of coffee taste

Subjective vs. Objective Sense of taste is a relatively subjective feeling. Actually we notice a reality in every cupping test or competition rating form that participant should describe their current feeling honestly, all descriptive vocabularies and quantization degrees should be defined neutrally and observed in all directions. Most of the people can feel lost at the first time of cupping. According to their experience, drinking a cappuccino in a beautiful café while enjoying chat with a friend is a normal thing. But here, in a quiet and closed environment, they need to perform cupping with a spoon and a loud slurp! In addition,wine and tea have special processing.For instance, while stored in different barrels and fermented to various degrees, coffee beans will taste naturally, as they are suppose to taste (discussion here excludes coffee beans baked with different spices). This is to say that the features of coffee in terms of fragrance, flavor and sense of touch is a little bit weaker than

In professional coffee world, cupping is the major method of tasting. Here, I try to explain this concept in simple words.

1 Definition of Cupping Cupping is a way that practitioners judge coffee’s quality. Though a SOP (standard operation process) – in a quantified container, put certain ratio of coffee powder and water (proper grinding degree and fixed water temperature) and soak for a while, then extract floating coffee grounds. Grade this coffee objectively based on its features (dry aroma, cup aroma, sourness/ flavor/richness/balance through sucking). By following this SOP and avoid human intervention coming from different brew methods, tasters taste the coffee based on their own sensory experience, score the coffee in all dimension rather than personal preference.

wine and tea. It is really very hard for one person to figure out the difference of coffee beans cultivated in different regions and processed in different ways. First of all, we need to make it clear there are distance and difference between the features of observed objective and your feeling of these features. For example, 80% of non-trained tasters described washed Yirgacheffe as a light and sweet coffee at the first time of tasting. If I ask, was it sour? 70% of them would say that it is not sour. The fact is the acid degree of Yirgacheffe is not low. The reason of their feeling is the acid degree of Yirgacheffe, which is similar to a fresh fruit (similar to citrus), some high quality beans even have flower fragrance. The after taste of caramel is also very good, all of which makes tasters think it is not sour. However, if they are trained in related topics, tasters will become very sensitive to acid degree and can tell different sourness from each other, which helps tasters to enjoy the sweet and sour feelings of coffee and one more time proves that:

After practicing,

TASTE

everyone can taste coffee.

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Training taste – from average to professional Most people’s sensory capabilities start from a same point, the gap is formed mostly by ‘conscious tasting’. It is influenced by your preferences and daily habits. It is like girls are more familiar with aroma of lavender and rose, or you are very sensitive to apple’s sweetness and sourness because you like to eat apples,the more you like something, the more you are going to experience it. Time and time again, this enhance your familiarity of this kind of flavor and you can guess it immediately during cupping. This is a series of reactions and it is also basics of coffee

2 Flavor description Flavor description is a difficult point for coffee newcomers. Newbies always have feeling like coffees are similar. Unless coffee beans have a certain outstanding feature that recall your memory of previous tasting experience, for example, sun processed coffee vs. dried pineapple, it will make it hard to describe its flavor. Actually, flavor description is not an answer that appeared suddenly in your brain. First of all, you need to enhance your sensory experiences in daily life so that you can enlarge your sensory-feeling scope and try to understand and describe what you are drinking. If you think something is sour, try to tell out which kind of sourness, sort of fruit? Which kind of sweetness, caramel? Then you try to analyze your feeling and improve your understanding of tasting. The definition of flavor by SCAA (Specialty Coffee Association of America) is the features represented majorly by coffee, and comprehensive impression of tasting by tongue and smelling by nose. So, when you describe a flavor, you need to take fragrance strength, quality and complexity into

tasting training. This is also why it is very important to learn cupping form and score tables,we need to understand words’ meaning, what stands behind them. We can start to look for flavor description examples in life: for example, the level of sourness of pure lemon juice is too high, but if we add some honey to it, the strength of sourness remains the same but quality of sourness is getting better and milder (accompanied by proper sweetness). In this way, we need to be open to different flavors, don’t be afraid of your first impression. In the meanwhile, you should figure out the coffee beans features in an objective and serious way. Only by combining two ways, we can make right flavor description.

consideration. If you want to learn systematically, you can start with some professional tools, like flavor wheel and coffee nose… it is not hard to find that the flavors in the wheel have great relationship with our daily meals and life. When you have these tools, remember to practice and practice again, make use them to the fullest!

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Coffee & Five Sense

TASTE

flavors, which means you know how to make a good coffee or how to adjust the brewing conditions. Even in coffee roasting, if a roaster starts losing tasting ability, he cannot estimate and ameliorate the balance between baking and caramelization , as a result, he cannot show different features of coffee beans.

In the systematical training of special coffee tasting, we should be open and keep rigor. Besides practices of sensory capabilities, we should taste more kinds of food to enhance our flavor pools. It is also very important to set up the baseline of tasting sense. We suggest to follow these 3 steps:

1 2 3

Understand the definition Practice and practice again

Keep exchanging opinions with others, no matter with your family memebers or friends, even big names in coffee industry. You can share your feelings about taste with them, listen to their opinions and understand the difference between each other.

Besides, try to avoid strong stimuli, like smoking, over-consuming alcohol etc. Stable daily habits can help to improve your sensitivity. At last, be patient during training process. Because, like every other educating program, this process takes long time to

ABOUT AUTHOR

master, from several days to 2 months. During these years of teaching coffee trainings, I find the most popular course is coffee brewing. But in my opinion, tasting training course is the basic of the basics. If you can enhance your sensory capabilities, you will improve the ability of differentiating

Qiaowen Wu CTO of Hiang Kie Coffee Training School

A fan of coffee, 8 years working experiences in coffee industry, several times jury of coffee competitions.

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D IsCOveR

why the wORLD ’ s best ROast

MasteRs aRe ChOOsING

L ORING ™ R OasteRs .

» Reduce fuel costs by up to 80% compared to conventional roasters » Achieve true consistency with agile digital controls and repeatable roast profiles » Conserve space with the smallest footprint in the industry

NEW! Destoners

loring.com/destoners

LORING.COM


Design

Customize your latte art in Carrera Café

In September 2016 brother and sister team, Kia Illulian & Kathy Illulian, opened their Carrera Café, a charming European style place with delicious coffee and Italian subs, on Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles . The name comes from the very opulent marble that is used on the counter tops of the cafe, Carrera Marble which comes from Carrera, Italy. Interior design was done in house by Kia and his wife Jessica Illulian, inspired by their trips to Paris and New York. Given that Illulian’s have some Italian roots, they decided to give the cafe an Italian theme. Carrera Cafe uses high-end commercial Nespresso pod system for all of their espresso-based beverages. Carrera Cafe’s specialty is to do customized foam art on lattes. The custom latte art comes by way of a proprietary machine that can take any image and print it on the top of foam. It works just like an ink jet printer does but on foam. Customer can choose images from our preselected options that changes monthly or they can download the “Coffee Ripples” app and send custom images. The picture can be anything, however it has to be in black and white in order to make the design come up darker on the latte. It’s that easy and makes your coffee feel much more personalized. Carrera’s art wall is Instagramfamous all over the West coast, it is a unique place for local artists to express their skills on meaningful images

that will engage customers and offer them a nice back drop for a memorable photo opportunity. The wall has gone 4 transitions since inception, the most famous for now are “Hello” and “La La Land” murals and one more amazing work by MRBRAINWASH will be coming in the next few months. Melrose Avenue has always been hip and trendy, which is why the owners chose Melrose for Carrera. The famous Paul Smith Pink Wall is also across the street which is a big plus. Carrera Cafe has increased the foot traffic to the commercial stores by 10 fold since it’s opening. Bloggers, Fahionistas, Instagrammers and tourists all stop by to take their picture at their mural, taste delicious espresso beverages, lunch or nibble on our decadent pastries and photo worthy waffles. All of these people get to experience the joy of outdoor dining and shopping in one of LA’s coolest neighborhoods, “Melrose Heights”.

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Cafe Around World

Sweets by CHLOE 185 Bleecker Street B, New York, NY 10012

Mon-Fri 11:00–23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00–23:00

@eatbychloe

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Cafe Around World

Nem Coffee&Espresso Minamiazabu 4-Chome 5-6,

Mon- Fri 8:00 - 18:00 Closed Every Tuesday and 1st&3rd

Tokyo, Japan

Mondays of the month

+81 3-6886-4777 @NemCoffeeEspresso

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Elephant Grounds Shop D-L, 8 Wing Fung Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

Mon - Thu 8:00 - 21:00 Fri 8:00 - 22:00

+852 2778 2700

Sat 9:00 - 22:00

@elephantgrounds

Sun 9:00 -21:00

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Cafe Hopping

From

Russia

With Love

Coffee is the second most popular product in the world stock market after petroleum. As we all know, Russia has no lack of petroleum, but we also know this cold country cannot grow coffee trees due to its climate; nevertheless, each year Russians consume more and more coffee beans. Instant coffee still has the most of Russian market; even so, coffee in beans is getting popular due to big cities’ fashion to gather with friends in cafés or to order coffee to-go. In recent years, specialty coffee shops have been popping around big cities like mushrooms and we interviewed some of them to understand how exactly coffee works for Russian market.

70,100 tons to 125,500 tons, where 74% goes for instant coffee and only 26% for beans, which are sold mainly by cafés and restaurants. Among these 26%, specialty coffee does not exceed 5%. Nevertheless, small coffee shops that decided to highlight high-quality coffee and use it as their main point of different influence the market and set the trends.In 2012, two teams of young coffee lovers opened LES and Cooperative “Black”, where at that time started to use unusual for Russian customers Chemex, Hario, Aero Press and so on. Two coffee shops became pioneers of specialty coffee in Russia and started to educate customers about beans’ difference and what ‘specialty’ actually means. “At that time we had to go abroad by ourselves to look for good-quality raw beans as all the big importers were bringing only commercial coffee into the country,” says Oleg Polovnikov,founder of LES, “Today Russian market has these companies that bring specialty coffee here. “And they achieved it due to the relatively low price: “Specialty coffee shops try to set their pricing same level as mass-market not to scare the customer away, but taking into consideration that our beans are much more expensive, this pricing strategy does not seem fair,” says co-founder of Cooperative “Black”, Artem Temirov.

Mass & Special The volume of the Russian coffee market reached $ 3 billion, percentage of Russians regularly consuming coffee has remained consistently high over the past years: 76-77%; and up to 30% of all coffee sales in Russia are made in Moscow and St. Petersburg. According to BusinesStat analysis, the supply of coffee in Russian market in 2009-2014 increased by almost 80% - from

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Challenges One of the main challenges for further development is considered to be high price for rent; due to high cost of specialty beans and low contribution margin, specialty coffee shops are not ready yet to rent bigger spaces in more popular and convenient spots of the city. And indeed, why would someone cross half of the city to get their morning-before-work cup of coffee when they have MacCafe, McDonald’s or Starbucks next to their apartment. However, Artem Temirov sees it in more positive way: “As we saw many times on American specialty coffee shops’ examples, we should not try to delight customer all the time. For example, Stumptown Coffee Roasters did not try to change coffee culture to be like Starbucks, pleasing the customer in every little thing and predicting their wishes. When your clients feel that they need good coffee and they cannot go back to lower quality, it won’t be important anymore how far from a subway station your café is.” What is more, educating local consumer can also be seen as a sphere to work at. “Two years ago we started an educational campaign to explain people that coffee is actually healthy to drink and what specialty coffee is. And we realized that people did not know anything about it; people started sharing our posts in Faceb o ok a nd commenting that they did not know that quality of a coffee bean itself can actually affect a cup. What we did not expect at all was reaction from our Russian readers, as they started to claim that coffee is a drug and we were promoting drugs, basically they opposed our facts due to lack of knowledge on the subject. They blamed us for promoting coffee just to amass a fortune as we sell it or there was also a funny idea that we were FSB (successor of

29

KGB) agents pushing people to buy drugs to put them in jail after,” said Artem Temirov, “Now the group of interested people has already googled everything they did not know, and they just circulate in between same specialty coffee shops, which is not big at all. But the rest still do not know that coffee is a berry and not an actual bean, that coffee can be sweet without any additives and so on.”

What’s Next If you have been following the news you might hear “Russia” pretty often, as Crimean crisis promoted a number of governments to apply sanctions, which were approved by EU and USA, against individuals, businesses and officials from Russia, and of course it influenced Russian economy as euro to ruble exchange rate almost doubled, leaving people, including café owners, with twice less money that they had a day ago. “Local cafés during crisis do not suffer that much,” says Oleg Polovnikov, “We used to have our peaks and valleys in terms of amount of customers, but now the number keeps being more or less same. In times of crisis, people tend to become more picky as they need to think carefully what they spend money on.” “For most of Muscovites a cup of coffee for 200 rubles (3,57 USD) is considered to be expensive, especially if you drink coffee every morning. We(owners of cafés)need to sell more cups of coffee instead of just raising the price for it. The main factor of specialty coffee development in Russia is the population income level,” explains Artem Temirov, “Specialty coffee in Russia can become a flourishing market or disappear, but for now it is hard for most of local specialty coffee shops to earn more.” According to survey made by Koloro Agency, 96% of Moscow coffee drinkers tend to consume it at home and only 20% drink it in coffee shops. “If every big Russian city will have at least two specialty coffee shops, you can say it is a success,” says Oleg Polovnikov. “There are already nice specialty cafés and roasters out of big cities, which means that demand for good coffee grows also outside of Moscow.”


Cafe Hopping

Rising Moscow Coffee Scene

pecialty coffee is relatively new to the people of Moscow, nevertheless we should not underestimate the potential of the city and desire of its people for a good cup of joe. Little by little people here start to replace sweet espresso-based drinks like Raf by black filter coffee and ask more and more questions about beans, roasting and brewing methods. Earlier we already talked about how specialty coffee is making its way in Moscow and now it’s time to name those coffee shops, who work hard every day to keep Moscow coffee scene flourishing.

Address Metro Tel Opening Hours Keywords

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LES Coffee Rozhdestvensky Blvd, 10/7,1

Chistie prudy

9:00-22:00; weekends 11:00-22:00 Single origin, roasters

LES coffee have already opened 5 cafes in Moscow and it does not see that they are planning to stop growing. We visited 2 of their outlets: the original one on Rozhdestvensky Boulevard and one in the Muzeon Park of Arts. Interiors of the two cafes use a lot of wood: solid panels for the floor, wooden bar and chairs; honey color of the wood reflects sun with this golden shine filling the spaces with even more light. Of course, LES Coffee, located in the park, feels much more airy as 2 out of 4 walls are windows, that let you observe Moscow River and surrounding park. Nevertheless, original LES Coffee on Rozhdestvensky Boulevard with same honey-color wood, white brick walls and soft armchairs to sit on will make you want to stay longer than just for one cup of coffee. LES Coffee on Rozhdestvensky Boulevard also collaborate with the project called Meet&Greet, where people gather to cook together and then eat what they cooked together, creating community not only of coffee lovers but of all Moscow foodies.

Double B Coffee & Tea Bolshaya Dmitrovka street, 9/1

TeatraInaya

8:00-23:00; weekends 10:00-23:00

Double B is one of the pioneers of Russian specialty coffee scene, now you can count over 60 Double Bs not only in Moscow or Russia, but also in Georgia, Prague, Riga and Barcelona. The outlet that we visited is located on Bolshaya Dmitrovka street, 9/1, walking distance from all the tourist attractions like Red Square and The Bolshoi Theatre. The

Champion store, well-known cafĂŠ

coffee shop is not that big as they share space with newly opened Uniqlo, nevertheless, we took the last free seats and ordered Brazilian coffee in Chemex, thay also do Aeropress or V60. The prices for specialty coffee are reasonable, while their signature drink Raf, that people from Moscow adore, has different variations like Lavender Raf and Citrus Raf.

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Cafe Hopping

Cooperative Cherny Pokrovka Street, 31 weekends 10:00-00:00

Chistie prudy

8:30-23:00;

Indie, roasters, Sunday cupping

Cooperative Cherny (in Russian means ‘Black Cooperative’) started as a real cooperative of 5 people working hard together on this coffee project. Now it has 2 co-owners, who realized that to build a real coffee community they do not need to participate in any competitions, but what they do need is to sell good coffee and educate people on what is specialty coffee is and why they should drink it. That’s is why, every Sunday coffee shop organizes coffee cupping and every last Friday of the month they serve coffee for free as they do not want to work with old beans. So for them it is better to share good coffee, which they also roast, for free before it goes bad, than to sell bad coffee. And as it seemed to us the business is going fine as Cooperative Cherny recently celebrated its 5th anniversary. The place is not that easy to find, it does not have any shield or placard saying about Cooperative’s existence on the street so you have to be very careful looking for it. This place is great for coffee, but if you are looking for a snack also you might look somewhere else, as guys here decided to focus on the coffee only.

West4 Coffee Ostozhenka Street, 3 14,

Kropotkinskaya

8:00-23:00; weekends 11:00-23:00

Roasters

WEST4 was opened in 2014, right after one of co-founders came back from NYC, where he studied, inspired by the local culture, so as it is not hard to guess they named the café after Manhattan address West4, they even have a map of New York City so you can easily find this spot in the city. This loft-like space took its design from owners’ trips to the US: high ceiling, wooden floor and redbrick walls with pictures of owners’ favorite city, NYC. Vinyl records, warm light and smell of freshly brewed coffee makes WEST4 best place to spend some time working as there is a lot of space and coffee beans, which are also roasted by WEST4. You can order all kinds of espresso-based drinks as well as locals’ favorite, Raf coffee, also you can ask for Aeropress, V60 and Chemex.

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Chelovek i Parohod Mytnaya Street, 74 Roasters, Trendy place

Tul'skaya

8:00-21:00

Chelovek i Parohod (Man and the Steamboat) was open in October 2015 in the Danilovsky Market, which is a very popular gastronomy area. The market used to be like any otherselling fruits and vegetables, but after renovation this place became must-visit place for every foodie in town, this gastronomy centre gathered many interesting restaurants and independent projects such as Chelovek i Parohod. As ChiP (short for Chelovek i Parohod) is a part of the market, its design is perfectly matching with the rest of the place: wooden bar, that you can see right after you enter the Danilovsky Market and VA Black Eagle Gravitech machine with 2 VA Mythos grinders. If you fancy to drink your coffee inside and not take it to-go you will have to find your seat somewhere around the market as every café and restaurant share their sitting places. Firstly you might feel a little awkward, but then you really appreciate to be able to enjoy great coffee and at the same time walk around and experience different things like Moroccan food, Turkish and Georgian sweets etc. and your sit does not limit your opportunities. ChiP also does green buying and roasting so we tasted their coffee called ‘Curry&Lemon’ on beans from Guatemala, the taste was interesting and exciting as you try to understand all the flavors in the drink.

Talking about specialty coffee, Moscow still has a long way to go, but that is exactly what makes Moscow interesting as coffee culture here feels very young, vibrant and creative. People are open to new flavor combinations and experiments as well as they tend to keep everything natural and do not add any artificial sweeteners. Almost every specialty coffee shop in Moscow does not serve food, except for rare packs of nuts, maybe it is because Moscow is still learning how to appreciate good coffee and does not want to be distracted by food. Everything comes with time and we hope third wave will take over Russian capital in no time.

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Cafe Hopping Story/ Leo Huang

Coffee meets

ietnam

Born to be an integral part of life

the world, following Brazil. Its whole year production is 2 times higher than 3rd ranked country, Colombia. Based on Chinese customs data, among all the coffee importing countries, Vietnam is the No.1 country from where Middle Kingdom imports the most coffee beans. It is up to 24,600 tons for only 2015, accounting for half of the whole year’s total imports of green coffee. Specialty coffee lovers might be very familiar with coffee from Brazil, Colombia, Indonesia and Ethiopia. However, as the 2nd coffee production country, we can hardly remember ourselves enjoying Vietnamese coffee. And we have to admit it is a dark horse of coffee industry: what is the mysterious force behind Vietnam coffee? Rambling on streets of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, you can find traditional Vietnam

Every time someone speak of a country with the strongest coffee culture in Aisa, we all think about Japan. But after visiting Vietnam, I think this country should be ranked number one in the list. Coffee in Vietnam is born to be part of people’s daily life, just like eating pho. There is even a saying that what coffee is to Vietnamese is same as hot dry noodles to Wuhan citizens,Yum Cha to Guangzhou people and shengjianbao (pan-fried bun stuffed with pork) to Shanghainese. Vietnamese has countless reasons to drink coffee every day, that is why cafes are always occupied by guests, chatting and drinking their favorite drink. According to the latest data released by WTO (World Trade Organization), Vietnam produced up to 1.65 million tons of coffee beans in 2015-2016, ranked the 2nd place in

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cafes at every corner, with small tables and stools just on the sidewalk. In the morning, a group of men either watch news or check their cellphones with a glass of coffee in front of them. In the daytime, they go to cafes to drink one more cup when in need of energy. In the afternoon, they prefer to meet friends in coffee shops, drinking and chatting on the road for a while. Even if it is a big family, they would like to chat and play at coffee shops’ tables, ordering coffee or lemon tea for everyone. While in other countries people enjoy various types of coffees, here in Vietnam, they are all magically replaced by condensed milk ice coffee. You can see traditional cafés almost anywhere: on the streets and lanes, in run-down buildings, next to Starbucks, on a roof or on a balcony; sometimes several stools at the entrance of alley can be considered as a café, too. These traditional cafes seem to be vital for the country: a cafe is the beginning and the end of the day in

Vietnam, while coffee could also be the beginning and the end of everything. Drinking coffee is not a posh habit in Vietnam, the average price of a coffee in cafés is 35,000-45,000 Dong (about 10-13 RMB) and price can go lower if you buy a cup in a street café. Traditional Vietnam coffee, dark roasted Robusta, made with the help of local coffee pot, Phin, is the most popular drink around here. Put a layer of condensed milk at the bottom of glass, then add ice to the coffee, stir with a bar spoon; this is why waiters serve coffee with a spoon in the glass – to stir. The condensed milk ice coffee seems to be very heavy for foreigners, however, it is regarded as the real coffee by Vietnamese. It seems that heavy flavor of peanuts together with bitter Robusta taste are an integral part of Nam’s people lives. Specialty what? Most of Vietnamese people do not really understand this definition, some even don’t think of specialty coffee as a real coffee. The traditional Robusta coffee with condensed milk seems to be the heart and soul of coffee culture in Vietnam. One more magical place in Vietnam coffee scene are roasted beans’ shops, where only tiny half of a shelf is occupied by teas. The beans are displayed in transparent jars or cabinets and sold by weight. It is very similar to a selling-teas stand in China: low price, simplicity, transparence and big variety. Customers come to buy several kilos of beans so casually as if they are buying eggs for breakfast. Balconies seem like a symbol of unknown and interesting world, which is deeply constructed in local reality. Walking on the main road, raise your head and look at the balconies: it seems like people have been enjoying their coffee surrounded by green trees forever. Due to being the second biggest city and economic center, Ho Chi Minh City is always mistaken for the capital of Vietnam, although Vietnamese prefer to call the city Saigon. French culture influenced local cuisine and coffee culture a lot, and as a result you will find European-style gastronomy almost everywhere. Thanks to our local friends, who helped us to look for traditional cafes, we were lucky to visit some rare Vietnamese specialty coffee shops, most of which are very young. But as young people in every country are same, willing to try new things and stay open, Vietnamese specialty coffee can always count on them in developing new coffee scene.

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Cafe Hopping

The Workshop 3/F p. q. 1, 27 Ngô Đức Kế, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam

Hidden treasure This café is not easy to find as its banner outside is also not obvious. At the beginning we even thought that we were lost, walking through dark and narrow passages, climbing not-looking-friendly stairs. We were wondering till the very moment when we opened the door on the 3rd floor that leads us to the modern Vietnamese coffee world: on the right side of the entrance there is a big roasting machine, the bar is very hip and it is placed in the way to let guests and barista interact with each other. The café looks very elegant as the windows bring so much sunlight which reflects from walls creating this golden-light effect. You won’t be disappointed by the menu, so be brave and order anything that look attractive to you, like soda coffee. The sharp contrast that this modern coffee shop gives you by simply being a part of the traditional building, shows you how different Vietnam can be. The Workshop Coffee is the first specialty coffee shop, which is also the alma mater of 2017 Vietnam Barista Championship silver medal winner, TẠ THÙY LINH. Even though it is hard to find, the place is packed during the weekend, people come here to enjoy high-quality coffee and just to hang out and meet friends. Moreover, the shop holds annual meetings of coffee producers, roasters and customers to introduce new crops. Bringing the community together is exactly what the owner, Dung, is aiming for.

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Cong Ca Phe 26 Lý Tự Trọng, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam

Fast growing café chain You might notice that this café is very different, first of all, from its name, Cong Ca Phe. Of course, its pronunciation is similar to coffee in Chinese (which is similar to the rest of the languages as ‘coffee’ is a loan word). This street is full of people: young, old, couples with kids – everyone enjoys this traditional street with its stools on the sidewalk and coffee in a cup. The traditional Vietnam coffee is made in Phin. The most popular Vietnam coffees are: iced black coffee (Ca Phe Den Da) and condensed milk ice coffee (Ca Phe Sua da), Sua da refers to the condensed milk in Vietnamese.

The Cupping Room 40 Mạc Thị Bưởi, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Ho Chi Minh City 700000, Vietnam

Passionate and unrestrained creator This café also has a second name, The Klasik Coffee. Muscular store manager/owner is always at the store, attracting new customers and sharing his passion for coffee. He was born in Vietnam, grew up in Australia, and then came back to open this own café, he seems so active and curious to open new things every day, that is why he invent his own coffee equipment.

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Cafe Hopping

Shin Coffee 13 Nguyễn Thiệp, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam

Fast growing café chain You can find Shin Coffee right at the corner of the Saigon Coffee Roastery building. It is a new high-quality chain of coffee shops, the one we visited has opened its doors 2 years ago and since then it has been attracting customers not only with a big variety of drinks (even a list of decafs) but also with its piece and calming vibes, moreover, the walls of two-floor building are full of murals that describe everything about coffee: from bean to cup.

Saigon Coffee Roastery 151/5 Đồng Khởi, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam700000, Vietnam

A compromise between specialty and traditional coffee This specialty coffee shop found its home in a corridor of one old building close to theatre. Passing through narrow passages, stepping into the old house of last century, walking through the dark old and seemed-to-be abandoned corridors, you will find this special place. The decoration is pretty minimalistic, in order to keep the space clear and airy.It turned out that the coffee shop is just one year old, Phap Vo, the owner of the newly opened place, worked in illy coffee company 10 years and can bring a lot of experience into business. Phap Vo says that Vietnamese people tend to think that specialty coffee is too light to be called a coffee, but he likes specialty coffee much more. At the same time, he loves to talk about traditional coffee, because it seems to be the essence of Vietnam coffee; so in order to fulfill local customers’ needs, he uses a big-sized Phin to prepare the dark roasted coffee for the daytime.

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The latest Monte-Carlo espresso machine from Conti features unique LED lights and exceptional multi-boiler system that guarantees precise and consistent water temperature throughout the brew process. The Monte-Carlo also comes equipped with user-friendly touch screen and the pre-infusion feature for the highest quality cup in every menu.

Eco mode for excellent energy saving

7 colour LCD touch screen for extra personality and easy control

Cool touch steam wand

Teflon portafilter for easy cleaning

Small time and water volume display for each group head


People

Nguyen Tuan Dung Vietnam Specialty Coffee Pioneer

This February we were lucky to visit Vietnam Coffee Festival and see how this coffee-producing country has been developing specialty coffee scene. Vietnam is a really special market for specialty coffee as its share jumped from 0.1% to 20% in just 30 years, what made Vietnam the world’s second largest coffee exporter for Robusta.However,Arabica was introduced to Vietnam by French colonials in 1856 and, in the late 1990s, Vietnam first announced plans for starting to expand the production of Arabica coffee. As for today, Vietnam has increased the production of Arabica to over 1.2 million 60-kilogram bags. Meanwhile, Vietnam does have Coffee Association, sponsored by the government, as it is seen as a cash crop for local people.

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Having rich coffee history and big opportunities, Vietnam specialty coffee scene have people to thank for bringing and developing the concept in Nam. Nguyen Tuan Dung is Vetnam specialty coffee pioneer, who not only brought this concept to his home country, but also is working on creating a coffee community. Dung has been always in love with coffee and drinking gallons of it while traveling gave him new prospects after he decided to quit his business development and consulting job back in 2012. He always admired coffee scenes of Australia, Singapore and Hong Kong and after traveling to these coffee-lovers destinations he decided to open his own place. Workshop was opened in Ho Chi Minh City in 2014, before that it was really hard to find a place to sit and work while having a good cup of coffee. That is where name ‘Workshop’ originates, Dung and his team wanted to create a place where you can come any time to work and enjoy an excellent service, of course they do understand that nothing can be perfect but they try to improve every day. Workshop’s customers are mainly in above-25 age group, as the cafe is located in the centre area these people move around a lot.


We need to focus more on bringing out the best in people . research and development in coffee cultivation and processing in Vietnam, also building a community of people (coffee business owners, coffee specialists, barista etc.) who share the same ideas and principles in specialty coffee, so it is never just about money. And it’s not short term either, we’d like to see it in 5 and 10 years term, or more,” says Dung. In fact, Workshop holds annual New Crop Celebration, where coffee producers and farmers gather together to meet customers, introduce new crop, drink coffee and participate in some small competitions, it is like a New Year party but for coffee. Moreover, Workshop provides basic barista classes, cupping classes and brewing classes just for customers, where they tell everything about coffee from bean to cup plus coffee history to teach students how to appreciate coffee even more. Talking about their plans, Nguyen Tuan Dung says that, they would love to open a new shop, but most importantly, they need to work even closer with coffee producers, investing in their own people for personal development and encourage baristas to compete to improve general skills. “If you want to earn a lot of money, don’t do coffee.” says Dung, “We need to focus more on bringing out the best in people and improve them personally.” As the Workshop is the first specialty coffee place in Vietnam it also took a leading role in this country to promote good coffee and educate customers what coffee can be, how it can taste .Workshop created this atmosphere not only for people to work but also to gather and celebrate coffee culture by creating a whole community.

“We let our customers try new things, the food and drinks that we serve reflects creative lifestyle of our customers; they are willing to try something different from Vietnamese food and coffee that they are used to drink,” says Dung, “But of course, It is hard for local people to change their coffee drinking habits as they tend to stick to what they are already used to, which is traditional coffee; we aim for the customers who never had coffee or good coffee before, trying to build a new habit.” Every day Workshop uses at least 7 kg of beans and during the weekend it is much more, of course, as the coffee shop gets pretty packed; every month they also roast 210 kg of coffee and 75%-85% of it is domestic, vietnamese coffee. “At least 60% of our turnover is from coffee”, shares Dung, “We try to keep same prices for coffee for the last 3 years, even though we have high rent, but we do not want to rip customer, instead we want to sell more cups of coffee and be more productive than to raise prices for one cup.” “In Vietnam specialty coffee scene we have people who are interested in improving coffee culture and people who seek commercial success; the thing is we all need to balance between quality and business, it is not possible to contribute anything when you are interested only in quality but have no commercial success. We try to build successful specialty coffee shop in order to build a foundation, on that foundation we will able to do further

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LOOKING FROM A DIFFERENT ANGLE

People

GIRL POWER

During World Coffee Championship 2016, there was one more coffee event, Re;co forum, where everyone paid special attention to the topic of gender and women in coffee industry. In fact, coffee production chain and even the whole system take a great care of women role,their independence, gender equality, which already became a symbol of 21st century, not without controversial disputes and discussions, of course. In this issue we will focus on women in coffee business to hear their voices and opinions.

Talor Browne Unexpected struggle Talor was one of the speaker in Re;co forum this time, former roaster in Tim Wendelboe, she has been in the business for over 15 years, even though she has already tried different roles in the coffee industry, her participation in the forum was accidental. In March 2016 Talor questioned Coffee Championship, saying “When people tell me that more women aren’t winning barista competition because they don’t enter, perhaps we haven’t realized that the structure of the competition favours certain personality types to enter and therein is the problem”. Right after it was published, her opinion attracted hot debates. Polarized comments made Talor to think it over: so what actually people from coffee industry think about gender bias? (Gender bias - unequal treatment in employment opportunity ,such as promotion, pay, benefits and privileges, and expectations due to attitudes based on the sex of an employee or group of employees.)

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People Gender Pay Gap in Different Countries 40 35 30

I used to be very

25 20

quiet and obedient, now it is

15 10 5

time to be brave!

0

NOR

JP

FIN

CAN

AU

USA

UK

DEU

KOR

*Gender Pay Gap: The average difference between

Sensitive topic

a man's and a woman's wages or salaries.

In today’s era of free speech, gender equality, feminism and other sensitive topics always rise active discussions. Let’s leave aside personal disputes and take a look at data: according to World Economic Forum report on gender gap in 2015, women’s current level of salary can be equivalent to what men had 10 years ago. Data collected by Talor and also survey made by Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) showed that among 712 baristas, women who had higher education get $7000 less than their male colleagues with the same level of education. And Talor can relate to this; she lives in Oslo (Norway), where salaries are not low at all, being a head of roaster and having a big industry experience, she still gets only 42000 dollars/year (3500 dollars/month); “Even going to work in MacDonald’s will give you more than this” – said Talor. That is what encouraged her to start “Specialty Coffee Industry Gender Discrimination” survey.

Rough coffee road Even in 2002, when Talor just started working in the industry and growing to become the head of Tim Wendelboe roastery brand, she was interested in where women stand in the coffee business. She found out that specialty coffee industry treat female workers more traditionally, and often women themselves do it, too. In 2009, Talor won the third price in some coffee competitions in Victoria region, which led her to participate in national competition, but, after doing everything by herself and facing “male environment”, she decided to give up. Several years after, when Talor said that she was unable to accompany another female contestant, her competitor used similar reason to give up. And only at that point, judges realized the real reason of it. In her career, Taler is braver and braver each day, studying how to roast coffee beans, which made her top female roaster. Mastered her knowledge of the business, Talor created her own brand, Talor&Jørgen, and, in September in 2015,she also opened a roastery: “I used to be very quiet and obedient, now it is time to be brave!” , said Talor.

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Let the boys speak After the forum, lots of people were inspired and ready to set wage transparency system in their own companies. Talor was very pleased by the fact that so many people care about the problem, especially men. She said: “If every World Barista Champion pays more attention to the matter and speaks up, we will make a great progress.” In her further career, Talor also sets an example of hiring women according to their abilities, and, seeing two thing of same quality, she prefers to by one, which was made by a woman, hoping to make everyone pay more attention to women abilities. And we cannot help but wonder, what is an actual women’s place in every step of coffee industry? Let’s figure it out together.


FIRST STEP ︳PRODUCTION the speed of a conveyor is the more carefully women pick the beans. In Central America there is a relatively big number of women, who are involved in testing and roasting. When I went to El Salvador to be one of COE international judges, I met Anny Ruth; Anny is one of the managers of coffee farm, where modern technologies are used to plant coffee. Being proficient in English and Spanish, she did her studies in USA and then studied all about specialty coffee in Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA). She visited a lot of farms in Central America to introduce concepts of organic planting and to review current use of sun and honey process of washing with the help of technologies, that she discovered in her farms. And from our conversations I also got to know that their farms’ picking team mostly consists of women, too. She told me once: “Women, that pick cherries, are more careful and patient, they can do a lot of work, that needs extra care.” This way of management support women’s labor.There are also women cooperatives, like the one we collaborate with, Indonesian Xiaguang female cooperative. Due to the political situation, many women are widows and single mothers; this cooperative try to help them by providing work places and accommodation. Those women cherish the opportunity, that was given to them, and as a result, they provide even better coffee than standards ask for.During my trip to Colombia, I was honored to receive award for the achievements in Asian coffee industry from an Indian cupping judge, Sunalini Menon, who made an incredible contribution into the world of specialty Robusta plants; Sunalini’s dedication to work and researches inspired me a lot. During the conference, we always had breakfast together, and after all our conversations I felt that if we have more outstanding leaders like her, one day coffee world will recognize that women’s knowledge and work are equal to men’s.

Qinru Gu

Coffee at its origin is the female kind of work

Coffee is mainly grown in so-called “coffee belt”, which includes numerous small coffee farms, treatment plants, rain forests, from where coffee is originally from. As a professional cupping judge and member of international jury, I think that the main activity in my work is to go to the farms to check them and taste the coffee. Because of coffee I fly around the world to Africa, America, Asia and even Central America. Of course, during my trips I can notice that, as cities and cultures are different, level of gender equality is also different in every place.Before becoming a cup of warm drink: coffee tree planting, taking care of it, collecting cherries and filtering – all of the steps cannot be separated from women’s labor. According to statistics, in every kilo of coffee beans, 70% of it comes from woman’s hands. But only 15% of land and product ownership rights belong to women. October 2015, I was very honored to receive International Women Coffee Alliance (IWCA) invitation to go to Colombia to participate in annual meeting and give a speech on behalf of China emerging market. During this conference I met coffee industry women from all around the world and got a deeper understanding of production situation. In every coffee growing country women do very different jobs and can achieve different positions. For example, in some African and Asian countries women are only involved in cherries handpicking, it is very boring and mechanical work. Processing factories usually use belt type conveyors, controlling how fast beans move, women sit on both sides of the conveyor and continuously pick beans with any defects; the slower

We just do not need to pay that much attention to gender differences and then we can start talking about equality.

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People

SECOND STEP ︳BARISTAS Every time you go to buy your coffee, there is always a barista. It seems they are everywhere, telling you stories about the coffee that you drink. In this male dominated industry, it is rare to see a female barista. Women, that we already interviewed, always play multiple roles: barista, roaster, housewife, wife, husband… This time we chose to talk about those girls, who stand behind the counter and prepare your favorite coffee, baristas.

Charlotte Malaval

France

Aren’t we supposed to rely on our strength and not gender?

If you have been paying following the recent years World Barista Championship, then you definitely know “French rose” Charlotte. Shirt and high ponytale, her simple and tidy look let her repeatedly become the only female among six best baristas. Looking at Charlotte moving so confidently in her coffee journey inspires us a lot. Before entering coffee industry, she studied cultural anthropology, but since she got in touch with coffee she could not stop it, so she quit university to focus more on coffee and becoming a barista. Coffee let Charlotte see its infinite diversity, every day she finds something new about it: visiting farms, going to different coffee shops, meeting new people and, finally, taking part in World Championship. Although it is her second time of being in Top 6, but she still feels pressure, competition intensity; in short, it is a wonderful journey. Talking about female place in coffee world, Charlotte demonstrates amazing confidence: “Every time I see feminism overload, I feel like it is hijacking of morality.” Charlotte says that, according to some research, women do not participate in competition because they do not like to compete.

“If we always focus on gender differences, then we cannot pay any attention to the event itself. I am tired of people always comparing men and women, making a fuss and not paying any attention to the real problems like farmers income, female labor, child exploitation etc.” Although, male domination really exist in many industries, but Charlotte would never create a problem out of it, because she always has supporting people by her side. “Your success has nothing to do with your gender, we can find a lot of outstanding women; for example, this year I am coaching the team, half of which are women.” She also said: “Do women really need to rely on same gender leaders to build themselves? If we always have experienced and knowledgeable example in front of us, then we cannot feel confident enough, but I think that is the reason to stay modest and keep learning; as for the competitions, confidence, pressure, workload, risk of failure etc., there are all the things that we can face anywhere. If you want to compete, find the reason and fight for it, no one can stop you from pursing knowledge and self-confidence.”

The most important thing is to do

It seems like even society wants

your best.

male winners to apologize for their victory.

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Mikaela Wallgren Finland Cute girl from Finland has just won second price in World Brewing Championship, but she first started to brew during her summer break when she was a part-time in a café, where she also studied how to create an excellent coffee. Before she returned to coffee circles in 2011, she studied hotel and restaurant management and worked in hotel industry for some time. This also gave her the chance to have a double role in Danish,the Coffee Collective as an HR and barista.According to the report of World Economic Forum 2015 on gender equality, out of 145 economies in the world, Scandinavia has the leading position. And that is the reason why Mikaela maintains an optimistic attitude: “If you really face gender prejudges, I suggest you to keep your work level high and fight for equal rights and salary at the same time it might be a good idea for coffee shops/HR departments to create a new system of quality standards.” Coffee industry is very diverse: you can work as a barista, manager and then grow to be a roaster or a head of staff, but the most important thing is to find your passion, that will keep you going. Last year Mikaela partici-

pated in the event called Women-Focused Barista Connect, which gathers together women of coffee industry and invites people with different backgrounds to share their professional opinions. Mikaela met there a lot of like-minded friends, who share her opinion that any competition is a healthy way to try yourself and promote your career.

At the end of the day, sweating and working hard is always worth it!

Eden-Marie Abramowicz

USA

tions as an example, it may be easy for a female competitor to get scared if she already failed couple of times, but for the outside world being a woman seems as a competitive advantage. But if you ask us, the most important thing is to do your best, which seems like an obstacle for any breakthrough, but I believe, that we can overcome it. In January 2016, Eden founded training and consulting company, Bastet Coffee, where she started to be a trainer, and she dreams about attracting more and more coffee lovers like she is. Eden admitted that there are always debates on the question of male and female different career opportunities; for male barista and female barista mentoring techniques are also different: “The criteria for female baristas is more strict: their voice tone, their dress – everything can influence guest’s view of them. I hope female baristas will be more confident; there is no need to be scared of competition or sexism, just need to do your best. This is girls’ coffee power.” Series of changes did not stop Eden from developing herself in the coffee world: in April, she was invited to Atlanta to be in SCAA Expo (Specialty Coffee Association of America) Latte Art Tournament one of the judges, at the same time she focused on developing a coffee machine for Sanremo brand. Being surrounded by men, Eden keeps her unique charm and hopes to compete again to make her coffee dream come true.

Those, who have seen “Barista” movie, will definitely recognize Intelligentisa Coffee former coach, Eden-Marie, who looked so beautiful and confident in front of cameras during South-West Barista Championship 2013. She spent her childhood in a village close to Atlanta, where she after became a barista, gradually fell in love with it. In search of bigger stage, Eden left her small town for Los-Angeles, where she joined one of the specialty coffee shops, Intelligentsia Coffee. Thus, step-by-step she made her way from a dishwasher to being the main coach and coffee bean buyer. Although USA is one of the leaders in specialty coffee, but in recent years coffee industry changed dramatically: if in the past not so many people knew who barista was, today, with the growth of coffee consumers, there is also a growing demand for professional baristas and there are much more male baristas than female. Eden shares: “As a female barista, I can totally understand what difficulties and challenges other women face in this business. Let’s take competi-

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People

THIRD STEP ︳COMPETITION

Cerianne Bury World Barista Championship is widely known to be the shortcut to prove yourself in coffee world. Since the very beginning in 2000, great number of baristas took part in it, but at the same time everyone views the championship differently. Cerianne Bury is one of the speakers in Re;co conference, majoring in political science and gender studies; she also took part in championship herself, as a coach, part of jury team etc. and this time she focused on female participation in the competition.

woman

they do have a team, this team consists of friends and family members; while male teams often consist of industry professionals, thus, we can see that women teams basically have weak professional support.

Self-expression & social prejudice Talking about the competition, participants’ speech and performance are also very important for a final score, and, of course, social perception of men and women have affected some of female contestants. “Since the early childhood we are taught how we should be, these kind of regulation affects personality a lot. For example, things, that I do, can be done by other women, too; but even if they do it the best way possible, there are still some people who will subconsciously think that men can do it better,” said Cerianne. Society still has tags for men and women: Asian femininity, Western women serenity. There are a lot of prejudices connected to this, moreover, it can lead to objectivity deviation: some people do not like hostess’ voice, so they leave rude comments in her Facebook, which can be considered as a personal insult. So when it comes to scores for impression, it is really hard to say how to do it fairly.

man

According to Cerianne’s research, in the past 15 years, average female participation rate is only 17%; and even if per 6 contestants there is one female contestant, there has never been a female winner in the championship history. This is what got Cerianne’s attention, how come this international competition has such a low female participation rate? In this regard, she summarized her thoughts:

Competition structure All these cannot help but make us think about the structure of the competition. There are also many baristas, participants, who ask: if in the whole story of WBC there was no female champion, so maybe there is something wrong with the competition itself? Or, perhaps, women and men should be seperated into 2 different competitions? So former judge and coffee coach, Cerianne suggests to add gender training into judges training. She will continue doing researches on the competition, she also hopes women can be more brave and directly express their demands, not be afraid of asking for help and sponsorship , so they can focus on the competition itself and find suitable way of expressing themselves.

Self-confidence & spirit of adventure According to the same research, female participation is 25% lower than male, and generally show less self-confidence, anxiety; moreover, there is this “follow the crowd” phenomenon, which is something like “if other women do not participate, then I will not participate, too”. There is one more problem: lack of spare time, most working women give their free time to their families, kids, housework… Thus, in comparison, men have much more time to prepare for the competition. That is why a lot of women gave up their hopes.

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The composition of team competition ● Independent

●Family&Friend

● The Professional

● Others

One more crucial factor is a team support. Women in earlier competitions are usually independent participants but if

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over”. Referees need to set a benchmark, which will examine how baristas can work with 4 senses and show their skills in 2 techniques, and in case of anything unpredicted, to insure competition’s order. “Every judge is an industry’s professional, that is why it is hard not to have different scores from different judges. According to the competition rules and regulations, every year organizing committee reviews or adjusts some rules,” says Charlotte. Championship can be glamorous, but it also has the other side , which is bitterness. Charlotte says:

Being a judge is very hard, you always need to

Charlotte Wang

pay attention to what you eat and

The first female head judge in the world barista championship

ensure to rest well.

Since earlier we talked about the competition structure, we decided to interview first Chinese female head judge of WBC, Charlotte Wang. Among 48 international judges, this 31 year-old from Xiamen is the youngest in the team.

before the competition we need to start a diet to keep our professional knowledge fresh.” We can only imagine the pressure and how difficult it is. For Charlotte the way to make it easier is to learn: “Every time when I am a judge, it can lead me to new fresh thoughts, inspire me. This makes me see clearly where and how to lead baristas to grow professionally, so we all can keep improving coffee industry.

Way to head judge 2014, Charlotte first time step on WBC stage. There were 50 referees from all around the world, and only 30 could be chosen to participate in the actual championship after trials; Charlotte was the only Chinese to participate in semi-finals. She seems distant on stage, but in reality she describes herself as a “funny face”; what makes everyone to like her is

Female participants Coffee industry develops very fast and has a lot of talented people. Even though there are much more men in the industry than women, but in recent years there are more and more outstanding female baristas, Charlotte also admitted that she likes such a change. Chinese contestant Ying Hu, French participant Charlotte, German barista Erna Tosberg made a big impression this year. Charlotte supposes that female baristas need to use their strength, patience to improve their service skills and help each other to gain better results. In addition, they also need to think about improving customer experience. After all, barista is a bridge between customers and coffee, so she needs to spread and promote coffee, deliver unforgettable coffee experience and new information on coffee, so customers can understand and even fall in love with coffee. Charlotte Wang will continue to spread coffee culture, besides continuing being a judge,last May she became an official China representative in SCAE, and in August Charlotte Wang reopened her own coffee shop, hoping that it will become coffee experience exchange point, so that more people love coffee.

exactly her liveliness, she has new ideas every year.

International trials

Written test

Practice

Current year competition’s

Review of used utilities,

rules and coffee knowledge.

coffee-making techniques, cupping knowledge etc.

Every year WCE holds trials in different countries, everyone, who has at least 2 years experience in their domestic coffee competitions, can participate. Charlotte shares, “WBC semi-finals gathers the best of the best baristas from every country, which means that there is also a huge amount of information, that judges need to quickly absorb and think

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People

FOURTH STEP ︳THOSE WHO WITNESSED HISTORY

Erna Knutsen Coffee for life A life of successful women usually looks like this:neutral clothes and makeup, wide thinking, fast speaking, bossiness, career became the main part of life, personal feelings are always seen as pointless. These seem to become Chinese characteristics of a “successful woman”. But on the other side of the globe, people have a totally different perception of success. Successful women there can still have feelings and combine work and family. Known in coffee world as the mother of specialty coffee, 95-year-old Erna Knutsen, is exactly this kind of woman. USA during 60s and 70s were not like today with gender and racial equality. In coffee world, women were locked in tasting rooms and behind the factories’ doors, and the only reason was: “What do you, women, know about business?” Erna experienced this kind of sexism herself. She was born in Norway, then moved to the United States, but in a male dominating coffee world, with her model look, she could only find a job of a secretary. This kind of rudeness and shallow judgments made Erna to show what she was worth. One day, she came across people, who were bringing Mandheling coffee beans from Sumatra to the US, then she had a brilliant idea to invite those people to roast their beans and those beans tasted amazing, so she decided to buy the whole container (around

300 bags); unexpectedly, in a bit more than a month, she sold it out, and this was the moment when she broke the glass ceiling of coffee industry and Mandheling became her favorite sort of beans. Those coffee industry men who looked down on women in the workplace were jobless after Erna bought their company. This story seems like a TV-script: 30 years ago, when Erna was 65 and had achieved everything she ever wanted in the industry, she was already divorced, living with her daughter; one night she went to a party, where she met John Rapinchuk, and even the two had 30 years gap, it did not stop them to become life partners. While they were interviewed by CTI, they both seemed like love birds, making jokes all the time, and after all these years you could still see how affectionately Erna looked at her husband.

She had a brilliant idea to invite those people to roast their beans and those beans tasted amazing. utsen

n Erna K

• One of the organizers of SCAA • Founder of Knutsen’s Coffee • First person awarded with SCAA Lifetime Achievement Award. • First who proposed the concept of specialty coffee.

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Latte Art

CRAB

By Narodom Onsri Omnia cafe, 6th of Thailand Latte Art championship 2017.

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Drinks Recipe&Picture/ Michalis Dimitrakopoulos

Eastern Dreams ·20ml Bombay gin ·15ml sugar syrup ·10ml lychee liqueur ·1 double shot of espresso (45 gr, I prefer the ethiopians coffee because of the floral characteristics) Shake with ice. Serve without ice in a moulin rouge glass!

Cold Brew Negroni ·15ml Campari ·15ml Jin Bombay ·40ml cold brew ·5ml sugar Stir in a mixing glass with ice. Serve with an ice block in a old fashion glass. With a wedge of orange as dressing (Because I love negroni)

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CTI Inspiration ·20ml whiskey ·20ml vanilla syrup ·10ml grand marnier ·1 double shot of espresso Shake with ice. Serve without ice in a champagne glass.

Three Best Boozy Father’s Day Gifts

About Michalis Dimitrakopoulos

It is Father’s Day coming up fast and we need to realize that good old adult beverages will make a nice compliment to your father. That is why CTI

2016 World Coffee In Good Spirts Champion. “I am working as a barista from 2009!I am 28 years old and I am working as head barista and barista trainer at The Underdog (home of three world champions). 2016 was my first time competing and I took the first place as well. I love my job and my team, and training barista to become better and better!”

asked Michalis Dimitrakopoulos, 2016 World Coffee In Good Spirits Champion, to share his signature drinks so we can impress our parents or our loved ones, in case if you are a parent yourself. No time to waste! Make your dad a drink!

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Special Report

Say ‘Thank You’

with Coffee

From being a baby to becoming an adult, fathers give us the most of their unconditional love. Sometimes it might seem that they are too busy working, but as we grow we start to understand how busy and chaotic life can be, so we cannot blame our parents. As all of us are children of some great parents, CTI decided to say ‘Thank you!’ through coffee and prepared a list of coffee gifts to make these upcoming holidays even more memorable for our moms and dads.

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For curious and adventurous dads If you are a barista, your father will more or less curious about your job. They may even ask a coffee recommendation or if you have good beans at work. In this case, we suggest to get some equipment as a gift and teach your dad how to work with it: spending time together while studying coffee equals double fun. Drip-coffee maker Sometimes we all wish to have our lives on autopilot, especially when you just woke up and need a fast energy boost to start your day. Exactly for days like that some good man invented drip-coffee maker! Rules are simple: open, put coffee, pour water, wait for a bit and voilà –your dad’s (or your) coffee is ready.

This machine is a three in one: it can make espresso, Americano and tea. Your father and you will enjoy it as it adopts dual grinding way and suitable for coffee powder and capsules and easy to wash. The machine can be easily carried in the bag or suitcase and can be even used in the car! Another option is a very seasonal gift – Ice brewing coffee pot. It is also light and can be carried almost anywhere, which lets happy owners to enjoy ice brewed coffee everywhere they go.

For Fathers with less interest in coffee If your father is not the biggest coffee fan then there is always classic Father’s Day combo: ties & socks! And here is how you can mix it with coffee…

French Press

www.zazzle.com/coffee+ties

In terms of convenience, nothing can compete with French Press. This simple and easy-using tool will be adored coffee or tea loving fathers. Moreover, you can carry it around the house to enjoy your drink while working at the computer or in the garden, watching TV or just with an afternoon snack.

Commodity like ties and socks Tie is the first choice for Father’s day that never goes out of fashion as well as socks and shavers. What’s more, a tie designed with coffee elements will suit every trendsetting dad.

Cups Goat Mug seems as a great present for any man in your life. Its design reminds a horn covered in leather, which is a gift after day-long hunting. The cup can be easily carried or hanged on a lather strap. If your dad loves to travel, that would be a very stylish cup that will keep him comfortable anywhere. One more good option is the Sleek keep cup. It is great for coffee and tea and loves to travel!

Clever Coffee Dripper Clever Coffee Dripper combines the advantage of French Press and Drip Kettle – simple, convenient and user-friendly. Within 5 minutes, no matter your father is a coffee brewing expert or newbie, he can easily get a high quality coffee.

Coffee Pros If your father is more than just a coffee amateur, why not consider to send him some professional coffee equipment to make his knowledge even more deep and Basetto Portable Espresso Coffee Machine might be the right choice.

All in all, let’s wish together a happy Father’s day for all our dads!

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Cover Story

COFFEE

& FOOD

PICK THE PERFECT PAIR Food pairing is usually seen as something related to wine, but basically we can pair food with everything we consume: coffee, tea, wine etc.. We all from time to time crave a little food with our coffees as coffee and food are a match made in heaven and people discovered it long time ago.

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H istory Coffee and food pairing is not something new, they have been paired for a long time now almost since the very beginning of coffee drinking. At the very origin, Ethiopia, people tend to eat something sweet or something salty with coffee as well as just add sugar or salt. We all know Turkish coffee and Turkish sweets like rahat lokum, and it is no surprise that these two (and rest of Turkish delights) are paired to ease the bitterness of Turkish coffee. On the other hand, in Europe, traditionally, coffee has been always consumed with milk, sweets or pastries: French cafĂŠ au lait with croissant, Italian espresso with chocolate or cappuccino with buttery pastries, Dutch stroopwafel and Swedish kanelbule, both are sweet pastries perfectly suiting coffees.

Traditional food pairings usually offer a combination of coffee and available, popular or socially accepted products in Those traditional pairings are known and loved by lots of people, as they remind them of good old times and their culture. And that is exactly the case of traditional food pairings: they usually offer a combination of coffee and available, popular or socially accepted products in these regions, but do not really represent the whole variety of food pairings in those countries. As we all know, tradition does not welcome experiments. For people seeking new combinations we suggest not to be scared and remember that food can be paired with anything that we consume and coffee is no exception here, but in addition you can use Flavor Wheel that will help you to differentiate coffee’s flavor. Especially as we are all into the third wave of coffee, which allows us to play with it as much as we want, pairing chocolate pastries or beef with beans from Guatemala, Columbia or Brazil.

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these regions.


Cover Story

Pick some food to complement and enhance the aromas of that particular coffee bean and brew style.

brunch) with coffees to make it more suitable for consumers. What is more, nowadays consumers need to be surprised, that is why new coffee & food combinations should be on the menu of each coffee shop, which will make the competition between them even more interesting. To step out of comfort zone as well as comfort-food zone and try new pairings you should focus on training your palate and use Flavor Wheel to complement your coffee with nice food: experts suggest that having similar or complementary flavors together helps to emphasize each flavor. If you have been wondering what to pair your coffee with, you should not stick to traditional pairings like breakfast or desserts; instead we suggest you to concentrate on tasting your coffee and pair it with matching flavors, for example, if you feel strong fruit notes and acidity in your coffee try to match it with some berries, fruits or even fruit pies; if your coffee has a light body then cheddar or any other type of hard cheese will be perfect for the pairing. At last, try your coffee with chocolate and pastries: dark chocolate will be perfect for dark roasted coffee as both flavors are strong, milk chocolate should be tried with every coffee, but the best combinations are with Kenyan, Ethiopian and Colombian coffees, and, finally, white chocolate goes better with coffees from South America as they have mild flavors.

All for one perfect cup of coffee However, talking about organs responsible for tasting and pairing food, only 20% of our flavor experience is due to an actual sense of taste, far more important is our sense of smell, according to FoodPairing.com. As much as 80% of what we call taste is actually aroma. Once you understand this it will be much easier for you to pair coffee and food. Not to mention, coffee beans also have different flavors and it affects a final cup and the food pairing, of course. The rules are pretty simple: pick some food to complement and enhance the aromas of that particular coffee bean and brew style. But how can you do it without good old experiment? No reason to be scared, as Van Lin, founder of GABEE. coffee shop, told us, the worst pairing for coffee is green vegetables, as they will highlight the bitterness, and the rest of the coffee&food matches should be explored: so let your feelings work together to discover the beauty of food and coffee together. Moreover, food at coffee houses is becoming a strong part of the menu as not every customer who comes to the coffee shop is all about coffee. And in fact we all know that coffee is seen as a daytime product, that is why Van Lin suggests cafĂŠ owners to think about pairing daytime kind of food (breakfast, lunch,

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Flavor Wheel: Understanding Your Coffee

Let me make a remark here: we are not talking about artificially sweetened or flavored coffees, most obvious reason for what is beans’ low quality. Two coffees might both earn 88 points but taste very different from each other. That’s I why it is especially important here to understand all the flavor “notes” or “attributives” to bring and use a new tool that can equally use everyone else as it is a common lexicon. The reason for updating the flavor wheel is that a lot has changed in 20 years: climate change, that forced farmers to develop heat-, drought-, disease-resistant coffee varieties, and growth of coffee industry, that brought more attention and people into the field, and of course science development. Of course, there’s a subjective aspect to all of the senses, and how people report what they see, taste, feel, smell and hear is often influenced by different factors like culture and memory. But the more researchers turn their attention toward the ways in which groups of people report and categorize those sensory experiences, the better sense scientists can make of them. So next time you get a coffee, pause after you sip and think about what you taste: if it is sour, roasted, fruity, sweet or vegetative and here is a practical guide how to get even richer experience from your cup of joe.

Thanks to our parents and their parents, we can differentiate flavors in food, like that chicken tastes like chicken and milk is milk. Besides that, we can also say if the taste is good or bad and if a product is still fresh. Unfortunately, not everyone of us develops their palette to feel the whole range of flavors in one product, for example, coffee. For most of the people coffee tastes like just a coffee, while it can taste like peanuts, chocolate, coconut, grape, rose and even rubber and petroleum – depending on the quality, place of origin, plantations’ environment and so on. To depict those flavors people from coffee business around the world needed some kind of lingua franca to be able to understand each others’ conclusions. For this reason the Coffee Flavor Wheel was created in 1995 (first flavor wheels were created for beers and wines) and updated almost 20 tears later, last year in 2016. Updated Flavor Wheel is the brainchild of coffee researchers and the Specialty Coffee Association of America (now SCA), more science went into the project than you might think: sensory scientists from Kansas State University created something called the World Coffee Research Sensory Lexicon, a common language for people to describe different coffee attributes, while the flavors are based on identifiable chemicals in coffee

To step out of comfort zone and try new pairings you should focus on training your palate.

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H ow to 1

Take a sip of your coffee.

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Enjoy it.

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When we talk about food and beverage pairings, first thing that comes to our minds is wine with fine food, but in reality it is not the only option. Coffee as anything else that we consume can be and should be paired to other food to bring out new flavors and sensations. As we are used to seeing coffee as a morning drink and pair it with pastries and breakfast, we could try to change the angle and pair it with whole range of dishes: meat, vegetables, fruits, chocolates, dairy etc.. And that is where we understand that coffee and food are meant to be together as they compliment and bring each other for a whole new level, making our taste buds sing out of pleasure.

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Try to understand what does this coffee taste like. Do you like the flavor? Does the taste remind you of anything? Does it taste like anything else? Take a look at the Flavor Wheel, start at the beginning with the biggest flavor groups, going to the sides as you discover more unique notes in your coffee. Is it sweet or sour? Fruity or floral? Does it remind you of tobacco or berries? Brown sugar or citrus fruit? Then we can go even deeper and name what our coffee tastes like. Is it hazelnut or almond? Or maybe it tastes more like whiskey or grapefruit? You can also feel raspberry, coconut, pomegranate, lemon, cinnamon, maple syrup and many more flavors if you will just swirl your coffee all around your mouth for a moment and with time and practice you will be able to appreciate your coffee even more, just by itself, with no additives. But as any feeling is subjective you can use Flavor Wheel to practise, but it should not limit you as there are much more flavors your palate can feel.


Cover Story

What gr o ws t og

Story&Picture/ Keith Pech

h et

e

.. . r

A coffee & food pairing experiment There is an idea that comes from French wine culture that local dishes made from local produce pairs best with locally made wine. Thus, we get the food-pairing proverb, “what grows together, goes together.” Since my recent move from Boquete, Panama to Bordeaux, I have been working with Arthur Audibert the founder of L’Alchimiste. L’Alchimiste is considered to be the leading specialty coffee roaster in Bordeaux. They offer many great single origin

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and single estate coffees and recently opened a boutique in downtown Bordeaux. Since both Arthur and I are food, wine and coffee enthusiasts,we decided to try a food pairing experiment with single origin coffees. The idea was to pair coffees with different fruits and products that can be found growing on coffee farms. So we began to design a small experiment that would take a few hours of an afternoon.


Our first step was to choose the coffees that we were going to use for the experiment. After a small discussion we decided to use three coffees: Marabou (an Ethiopian Sidamo), Peña Blanca (a Guatamala Huehuetenango), and Finca Deborah (a Panamanian Natural Geisha). All of them are great coffees that express themselves well in a Hario v60 pour-over and they all have very different taste profiles. The Marabou, is a delicate floral coffee with notes of chocolate, caramel and brown sugar. The Peña Blanca is a mix of the coffee varieties bourbon and caturra from a very high elevation farm. The coffee is complex with notes of lemon, chocolate, roasted almonds, mandarin and a round milky body. Finally the Finca Deborah, is an outstanding natural Panamanian Geisha that outshines almost any coffee that we both have ever encountered. It has a vibrant mouth feel with floral elements and tea-like flavors that sing of ripe raspberry and strawberry, but is equally balanced with lingering dark chocolate and caramel notes. Overall we had a great selection of specialty coffees and we felt they would lend themselves to an interesting experiment. Next was to choose the different foods that we would use to pair with. Since the L’Alchimiste roastery is located at the new grassroots concept known as Darwin, we had a variety of great organic and high-quality produce to choose from the market “Magasin General”. Of course not all the ideal products were available, but we had a large enough selection to do the experiment. We decided to use the following products: Brazilian nuts, dark chocolate, dry banana chips, hass avocados, table oranges, grapefruit, honey, and yellow lemon. The format of the tasting was relatively simple. It was a rating between 1 and 10, where 10 meant being completely compatible and 1 being not compatible at all. The tasting would follow a basic procedure: first select a small piece of the food, eat it, chew a bit, take a sip of the coffee and score the pairing.

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For the experiment there were three of us since Arthur invited his friend, Sebastian, to participate. We started with the Marabou. It took us about seven minutes to prepare the v60 and to wait until the coffee was cool enough. Then we began to eat and taste. The Marabou provided interesting results, because even though Arthur and Sebastian came up with similar results I had different ones. We had similar conclusions that the chocolate, the dry banana and the honey were great matches. However, we differed on the grapefruit and the lemon. I felt that the lemon and the grapefruit overpowered the coffee with their acidity. On the other hand Arthur felt that the acidity of the grapefruit and the lemon really complemented the coffee. This could have been contributed to the fact that we were from different cultures and that we enjoyed certain pairings more than others. The next pairing was the Peña Blanca. This coffee also provided enlightening results, because for the most part we came up with the same results. The dry banana, the honey, the grapefruit and the lemon were great pairings. However, we all concluded that the chocolate did not pair as well as it did with the marabou, it was still good just not as good as before. Overall it seemed that most of the pairings improved from the first tasting and we all agreed that the honey was a very elegant pairing. We were all very excited to try the Finca Deborah, because we were having great results with the previous coffees. Given that the Panamanian natural geisha is such a complex coffee we felt that it could lead to some interesting palate combinations. Fortunately it did not fail to beat our expectations. The overall trend was that everything scored a higher pairing score with the Finca Deborah, with the hands down winner being the honey. The honey presented a next to perfect pairing because it complemented the structure and balance of the geisha. For me the second best pairing was the dry banana, while Arthur and Sebastian preferred the citric fruits (lemon, orange and grapefruit).


Cover Story

We must have open minds when it comes to food and coffee pairings.

The whole experiment not only proved to be a fun tasting exercise, but also provided some interesting conclusions: Everyone has different tastes because of cultural differences or simply because of personal tastes, which demonstrates how personal food and coffee can be. The more complex and higher scoring the coffee is, the more likely it will pair better with various foods. (From an Arabica Q-Grader the Marabou was about 84 points, the PeĂąa Blanca about 87 points and the Finca Deborah about 94 points.) This could be because that with more notes the more complex coffee has higher chances of pairing well. We must have open minds when it comes to food and coffee pairings. I was not sure that certain foods would pair well with the coffee; however, once I tried the pairings I was often pleasantly surprised. The best way to find if something pairs is to TRY.

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Overall it was a great experiment that not only was fun for us to conduct and could prove interesting for cafes and roasters worldwide to conduct in order to engage customers in new coffee experiences. We can conclude that - what grows together does go together!

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Keith Pech Certified Arabica Q Grader & Manager Damarli Estate Boquete, Panama keith@damarliestate.com www.damarliestate.com


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Coffee Dinner Party With the Mother’s and Father’s days right around the corner, it’s the perfect time for throwing a dinner party for your loved ones. We all love gather with friends and relatives and what is better than cooking for them and sharing the meal? As Virginia Woolf said, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well”, and this one more time proves that dinner parties bring out the best in us. Sure, many of us love a morning cup of joy, but coffee is much more than the best part of waking up. In the previous issue we have already discussed how coffee is good for your memory and boosting metabolism, it can also lower the risk of developing Alzheimer’s disease, type 2 diabetes and heart disease. Of course, there are still some restriction on consuming any product, including coffee, in order to take only the best out of your diet. Talking about nutrients, coffee beans are loaded with antioxidants, which, as we all know, help us to fight aging. Moreover, studies from Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry claim that coffee leftovers, especially from French press, tend to have more antioxidants than fresh grounds. And as we are all here coffee lovers we suggest you to use this full-of-goodness product and use it for preparing dinner party’s dishes. Simply put, it’s a flat out fun ingredient to cook with.

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cooked meal as much as something more gourmet. When I’m in need of some culinary inspiration, I always open Pinterest for some simple and yummy ideas and here are our suggestions for this special event.

Starter Root vegetables (like potato) pair well with coffee, as they sweeten when you cook them, and the coffee helps to intensify that natural sweetness. Try to roast or slowbake some beets and carrots with coffee for a colorful dinner side.

Veggie Burger You can make a veggie burger as a starter because you want the hamburger experience without the meat as we will have meat as a main dish. The very same green, floral and herbal type of aromas found in both coffee and eggplant match perfectly. Pesto, great asset for every dish, here will highlight freshness and eggplant-coffee combination to tickle your taste buds.

Drinks Sticking with wine and some signature cocktails keeps things simple and classy. If guests ask you if they can bring anything, have them bring along their favorite bottle of anything.

YOU WILL NEED

tamarind & coffee sauce: 25 g Tamarind (paste) 50 g Freshly ground coffee (35 g grounded coffee – 6 dl water) 80 g Liege Syrup

Crispy South Designed by Sebastián García YOU WILL NEED

60 ml Rum 30 ml Lime juice 15 ml Coffee 3 slices Green apple 30 ml Spiced Honey ½ White egg

HOW TO

For this burger recipe, we lacquer our eggplant whilst baking it in a sweet tamarind & coffee sauce. Start by dissolving your tamarind paste in the warm fresh coffee and sieve. Mix 40 grams of the tamarind-coffee mixture with the Liege Syrup. Cut your eggplant in thick slices (imagine they will serve as the hamburger). Bake until tender in a layer of hot olive oil. Remove all leftover oil and add some tamarind - coffee sauce. Make sure your eggplant rounds are lacquered on both sides. Season with pepper & salt and finish off with grated lemon peel for a fresh citrus touch.

HOW TO

Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake. Strain in a glass. Garnish with crunchy apple and nuts. To make the cookie, you blend banana with sunflower seeds and bake this mixture in the oven on a low temperature (39 degrees) for about 18 hours.

Dinner Make sure that you’ve asked all of your guests before cooking if they have any food allergies or dietary restrictions. You don’t want anyone to be hungry or feel awkward refusing food. Also, stick with dishes that are easy to prepare, no time-consuming experiments or complicated fusion dishes that you have seen in Chef’s Table on Netflix, let’s just keep it simple. Your guests will appreciate home-

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Cover Story

Main Dish Coffee makes for an excellent ingredient in a steak rub: something about the rich and savory coffee flavor goes perfectly with the fresh meat. And while nothing beats a good beef steak, the strong flavor of coffee rub will pair well with any meat.

Sauce Pea Pesto YOU WILL NEED

230 gr cooked peas 40 gr olive oil 2 gr basil 4 gr mint, finely chopped 5 gr grated Parmesan cheese HOW TO

Bring all ingredients together in a bowl and mix for a few seconds. We do not want to obtain a real paste, the structure and shape of the peas should be left intact. Season with pepper and salt.

YOU WILL NEED

1 Steak 1/4 cup ground dark roast or espresso coffee 1/2 tbsp freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp dark brown sugar 1/2 tsp chili powder 1/2 tbsp granulated garlic 1 tsp sweet paprika 1 tsp coriander 1 tsp oregano 1 tsp sea salt HOW TO

① Allow the steak to come to room temperature while you prepare the rub. Mix all above ingredients together and rub all over roast, you will have leftover rub. Cover and marinade for 1 to 12 hours. ② Heat the grill over medium-high heat. ③ Add the seasoned steak to the grill and cook for 6-8 minutes, or until steak is well-browned, then flip and cook an additional 6-8 minutes, until steak reaches almost 71 degrees Celsius. ④ Allow the steak to rest on cutting board for 5 minutes to cool it down a bit before serving. ⑤ You can add some rosemary for a nice mix of smells at the end.

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Dessert HOW TO

Don’t forget about dessert! To ensure that your dinner will end on a sweet note we suggest you to prepare a coffee caramel ice cream, as some people prefer not to drink coffee after lunch. For me, dessert is just as much about presentation as it is about taste, so you can put your ice cream into coffee cups and put some cookies on a side. You can always pair it with some coffee, more tea or wine, that you or your guests prepared.

① Firstly, you will need to prepare the caramel: mix 1/4 cup cream, 3 tbsp butter, and sweetener and cook over medium-low heat. Stir frequently until thickened and slightly browned. Remove from the heat and add the salt, instant coffee, remaining 1 tbsp butter, and 2 tbsp cream. Stir until smooth and let cool to room temperature. ② Put the ingredients for the ice cream base in a blender all together and blend until smooth. Pour into an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions or just try to mix it till looks smooth. Then mix 1 tbsp instant coffee with 1/2 tbsp water until to form a paste. You can add just a tiny bit more water if necessary. When the ice cream looks done put in the freezer and add the coffee paste to the remaining ice cream and churn for an additional five minutes. Gently swirl the two ice cream flavors together. Pour the caramel sauce into the crevasse. Gently swirl a little more. Put it on the freezer till it’s time for the dessert.

Coffee-caramel ice cream YOU WILL NEED

Caramel Sauce Ingredients: 4 tbsp butter 1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp heavy cream 3/4 cup honey 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp instant coffee Ice Cream Base Ingredients: 2 cups heavy cream 1 1/2 cups unsweetened almond milk 1/2 cup honey 3 egg yolks 1 tbsp vegetable glycerin

With all that hustle and bustle of big cities we live in, sometimes we forget about the closest and most loved people in this world, our parents. That is why this time CTI suggests you to celebrate them and throw this little dinner party. Or maybe you are a parent yourself and there are even more reasons for a festive mood. We hope you and your family will enjoy these special days and this very special party meal.

Coffee Paste Ingredients: 1 tbsp instant coffee 1/2 – 1 tbsp water

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World of Coffee Budapest 13 to 15 June 2017, Budapest, Hungary Taking place in the stunning city of Budapest, World of Coffee is a very special event on the European coffee calendar — featuring over 200 of the world’s most innovative coffee industry suppliers, three full days of competitions, seminars, educational workshops, and a packed social and networking programme, as well as Re:co Symposium. This truly is the most exciting coffee event on the European coffee calendar. Celebrating its 17th anniversary, World of Coffee attracts the industry’s most influential producers, suppliers, and professionals who gather at the event to meet existing and potential buyers, promote their products, and learn about the latest trends and developments in the coffee sector. Following the overwhelming success of World of Coffee Dublin, SCA is looking forward to bringing the event to the Hungarian capital, a spectacularly beautiful city. This event is all about strategic development within the industry, leading innovation, and high level

We find a twist for any

discussions. There is a full programme of activities in the pipeline,includingRe:co Symposium, where leaders & thinkers gather to engage with coffee’s biggest opportunities and challenges. The World of Coffee event is one of the premier events within the industry, which brings thousands of coffee professionals and those from beyond the core coffee community from across the globe together for a three-day

Our business approach is simple: to be the best quality partner for quality partners offering quality brands. Starting with reliable sourcing, we deliver an astounding variety of premium teas, fruits, herbs and their extracts – produced and refined in-house. According to our very high quality standards and overseen by our experienced tea experts. Our broad scope for innovative product creation and turnkey manufacturing allows us to offer the benefits of a true onestop shop. From tailored recipes to packaging. Whatever your needs, we find the right twist for you.

The world of tea under one roof www.haelssen-lyon.com

celebration of coffee each June.


May

CAFÉ CAMBODIA

May 4-6,2017 Koh Pich (Diamond Island) Convention and Exhibition Center, Phnom Penh, Cambodia www.cafe-cambodia.com

September

MALAYSIA COFFEE FEST 2017

Food and Hotel Thailand 2017

May 5 - 7, 2017 Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC), Malaysia www.mycoffeefest.com

September 6-9, 2017 Bitec, Bangkok www.foodhotelthailand.com

HOFEX

HOSFAIR GUANGZHOU

May 8-11,2017,Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre,Hong Kong hofex.com

September 8-10,2017 hungexpo, Budapest www.hosfair.com

Bakery China 2017

SCAJ 2017

May 10-13, 2017 Shanghai New Intl’l Expo Center, China www.bakerychina.com/en

September 20-22, 2017 Tokyo, Japan www.scajconference.jp

THAIFEX-WORLD OF FOOD ASIA/WORLD OF COFFEE & TEA

Food&Hotel Malaysia

May 31 – June 4 , 2017 Bangkok, Thailand www.worldoffoodasia.com www.world-of-coffeeandtea.com

September 26-29, 2017 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.foodandhotel.com

June

October

SCAE WORLD OF COFFEE EVENTS

AgriFood Cambodia

June 13-15,2017 hungexpo, Budapest www.worldofcoffee-budapest.com

October 19-21,Phnom Penh, Cambodia www.agrilivestock.net

Host 2017

July

October 20-24, Milan, Italy www.host.fieramilano.it

CAFE SHOW CHINA

July 6-9,2017 ,China International Exhibition Center, Beijing, China www.cafeshow.com.cn

November

TRAFS 2017

MYANFOOD

July 13-16, 2017 Bitec Bangna, Bangkok, Thailand www.thailandhoreca.com

November 2-4, 2017, Yangon, Myanmar www.myanhotel.com

Seoul Café Show

August

November 9-12, 2017,Seoul, South Korea www.cafeshow.com

MIFB

Food&Hotel China

August 9-11,2017,Putra World Trade Centre, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia mifb.com.my

November 14-16, 2017, Shanghai, China www.fhcchina.com

HK Tea Fair 2017

Taiwan Tea,Coffee&Wine

August 17-19, 2017,Hong Kong Convention ,Hong Kong www.hktdc.com

November 17-20, 2017,Taiwan www.chanchao.com.tw/coffee

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Trade Show

THAIFEX World of Food Asia 2017 Following the rapid population growth and mass urbanisation in Asia in the last decade, the traditional demand for food in the region has changed drastically. Not only does the Asia-Pacific region have some of the fastest growing F&B industries in the world, with projected year-on-year growth rates averaging 11%, there has also been increased attention to healthier living and demand for better labelling and packaging. Visitors can expect a mega show congregation of at least 45,000 industry professionals, 2,000 exhibitors and representation from over 40 countries across the five-day event.

Widen Your Business Network Leveraging Thailand’s position as a hub for regional connectivity, THAIFEX-World of Food Asia serves as a strategic access point for businesses around the region, especially with the establishment of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC). Furthermore, Thailand’s close proximity to emerging Asian countries like Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam – ASEAN’s hotspots for investments – provides international exhibitors participating at the event with unique opportunities and an enhanced competitive edge. THAIFEX-World of Food Asia serves as ASEAN’s window for F&B enterprises from all over the world. “We are excited to introduce new and exclusive features at this year’s edition of THAIFEX. With an additional 13,500m2 of event space, we expect not just a growth in participant and exhibitor numbers, but also visitors of varied profiles and nationalities from the Asia-Pacific region and beyond. Being in the heart of the ASEAN region provides our exhibitors with unparalleled access to emerging markets in Indochina, especially Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar,” said Mathias Kuepper, Managing Director at Koelnmesse Pte Ltd, organiser of THAIFEX-World of Food Asia 2017. At the same time, ASEANS’s leading F&B trade fair also provides access to the very best of what host country Thailand has to offer.

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Highlights will also include

F&B entrepreneurs and SMEs to improve their competitive edge in the regional marketplace. It also creates an avenue for businesses to showcase their offerings and innovation, keep in touch and be up -to-date with important happenings on the world F&B stage,” said Mr. Supapat Ongsangkoon, Deputy Director-General of the Department of International Trade Promotion.

Celebrity Coffee Bar (CCB) Location: Challenger 1

Whet Your Appetites As the ASEAN F&B industry’s one-stop trading platform, THAIFEX-World of Food Asia provides the expected 45,000 visitors from the entire region exposure to F&B products from all over the world. The 2017 event will showcase 15 specialised product segments, shedding deeper insights into 11 trending food topics, as well as three specialised trade fairs for Coffee and Tea, Food Service and SeafoodThe stellar line-up of 2,000 exhibitors is headlined by a strong showing of national group participations from countries such as Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Singapore, South Korea, Turkey, and Scotland, to name a few. This is being complemented by an impressive representation of Thai companies, including industry leaders such as CP Food, Malee Enterprise, Mitr Phol and Seavalue. There will also be more than 60 thematic and pavilions to promote both international and local food products, as well as the Thai Select certification.

Thailand Ultimate Chef Challenge (TUCC) Location: IMPACT Hall 1 & 6

Witness evolving F&B Trends In partnership with Innova Market Insights, THAIFEX -World of Food Asia has identified 11 key industry trends for 2017. On top of the sustained interest in veganism and vegetarianism, another identified trend set to make waves this year is organic foods. In Asia-Pacific alone, it is expected to grow with a CAGR of 14.81% through 2022. Visitors to THAIFEXWorld of Food Asia will receive in-depth insights into these and more. “We’re seeing growing demand for premium Scottish products in the ASEAN market, especially Scottish salmon, seafood and red meat as well as craft beer, bakery and premium grocery items. Participating in THAIFEX-World of Food Asia this year will allow us to showcase these products to key players within the local industry as well as allow us to gather feedback and insights into local consumer trends in Thailand and the wider region,” said Neil McInnes, Head of Southeast Asia, Scottish Development International. To further cement the show’s commitment to the industry and the region, this year’s edition will feature a newly instated ‘THAIFEX Innovation Zone’. The zone will set out to showcase the wide range of innovative food products and product designs from the region. On top of that, the most innovative products showcased will be

identified based on criteria such as being the first of its kind in the world, uniqueness in taste and packaging of the products, the type of ingredients used as well as overall presentation. Visitors will also have access to three exclusive conferences where key business decision-makers are expected to attend and network: ·World of Food Safety Conference (01 - 02 June 2017) ·Asian Food Franchising Forum (01 June 2017) ·IFU SGF Juice Workshop (01 June 2017)

For more information: www.worldoffoodasia.com

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Trade Show Story/ Yiping

The Weekend

London Was

High On Caffeine April in London has not been this sunny and warm for quite a few years. Between the 6th and 9th, it saw London getting high on both the glorious sunshine and the joyfully fed caffeine. It marked the highest temperature so far this year on Sunday the 9th; it was also the come back for the largest of its kind, as well as the ever getting better annual event which brings the whole city to celebrate the black gold that so many of us are in love with, the London Coffee Festival (LCF). Once again the LCF transformed The Old Truman Brewery in Shoreditch into a three-level coffee wonderland. Room after room, section after section, the maze-like space was filled with food and drink stalls alongside interactive workshops, talks, live shows, and the Coffee Master (CM) competition. Some facts in a nutshell: more than 250 artisan food and drink stalls, over 35,000 visitors expected, first latte art live show on LCF, CM 2017 UK winner was James Wiise from Treves & Hyde.Sailing one’s way through the crowd inside The Old Truman Brewery, it was not too dif-

ficult to tell that a considerable amount of visitors were tourists. Becoming more and more like some renowned UK music festivals for which many people travel from all over the world, the LCF is now not just serving its role as to celebrate the shared passion with coffee lovers, but also to exhibit London’s coffee scene proudly while taking advice from the rest of the world . We saw the grand areas to celebrate the 90th birthday of La Marzocco where in one festival goers could play with Linea Mini the domestic espresso machine, while in another a U-shaped coffee bar displayed the oh-so-beautiful new Strada AV constantly pulling perfect shots; we saw the UK debut showcasing of O2, the world’s first smart full-automatic milk frother; we saw Gwilym Davies the WBC 2009 champion hosting the CM; we saw coffee oriented experiments happening from food to drink, butter to beer. That said, this year’s LCF did illustrate one of the current trends in the London Coffee Scene clearly, the integration of good coffee and good food.


Specialty&Healthy

① La Marzocco booth ② Cold brew ③ Automatic brewing system ④ Let’s brew.

However, serving average food has been vetoed from almost day one. It is not difficult to understand the mindset of specialty coffee shop owners on this point, someone who cares the customers’ coffee experience enough to only serve premier quality specialty coffee will hardly lower his/ her standard on the customers’ food experience. Therefore, in most independent cafes known for its specialty coffee, one can expect to find a healthily enticing food menu with an expensive humbleness. Moreover, the dishes on offer are somehow interesting in a highly unified fashion, which is heavily influenced by Mediterranean, Asian, and Oriental cuisine. 75

For originally specialty coffee focused cafes, the advanced traditional cafe model, which is a level-up from serving coffee and food to exceptional specialty coffee and artisan healthy dishes, is adopted increasingly. A rising number of independent specialty coffee shops in London are now out of the bakery only zone when it comes to selling something with a much higher profit margin than coffee. Even though many passionate baristas would be more than happy to run a coffee-only shop, it is a shared knowledge that the difficulties a coffee-only business model will face is tough. Eventually the lovely coffee geeks realised that in order to fund their coffee dreams, they would need to learn from the business model of traditional cafes in Europe, simply because time told us it works.

These factors are probably the combined result of a growing appreciation of the value of small-scale handcraft production and the deeply rooted hippie culture in East London, where the Capital’s specialty coffee scene took off around ten years ago.During the LCF 2017, the above mentioned trend has evolved into an elegantly presented three-course meal with coffee paring done by the roastery/cafe, Grind. On top of this, it was also reflected in the promotion of a healthy focus without compromising taste by the majority of food stalls, which ranged from frozen yogurt (Bee Me) to energy snacks (Kind, The Primal Pantry, etc.), peanut butter (Pip & Nut) to biscuits (Nairns).


Trade Show you went out for other reasons in central London, big chance that you would end up with a cup of surprisingly good coffee. The density of places serving high quality coffee during daytime in central London is catching up with that of places serving great booze at night. Caffeine and alcohol, day and night, savoured rather than gobbled by 8.6 million Londoners together with over 30 million tourists annually; have grown into a unique culture which nurtured this flourishing city shining in endless crazy colours. The London coffee industry has been growing wildly in recent years, and it is still booming. The birth and expansion of LCF could be one way to demonstrate it. However, given all the positive development and feedbacks, there are issues underlying yet to be thought about. London’s, even the UK’s coffee industry, seems to face a decreased diversity in many ways. The style of food served in London’s independent cafes, the way to roast beans, and the recipe used to extract espresso shots, are getting highly alike from one to another. Though a more competitive market environment will naturally filter out the problematic businesses, a lack of innovation and diversity is by no means healthy for the development of the industry. As a commodity trade, coffee industry has been around for hundreds of years. The so called specialty coffee movement, or the third wave, should be seen more as the progress of a specific branch of the whole industry rather than something new born from the old. From this angle, maybe LCF could think twice of how it promotes itself as the celebration of the love for coffee. It is not the love for caffeine; it is the love for high quality, expensive, and luxury specialty coffee. A big part of the coffee market, the other end of the spectrum, with price conscious customers and poor quality cheap coffee served in many more places across the country, was nowhere to be seen on LCF. It is true that specialty coffee has successfully transformed itself into a new wave of culture in London, influencing millions of people, and changing their daily habits. Nonetheless, no matter how exclusive and special this newly grown branch is, it will not survive without taking its root, the whole coffee industry into account when thinking of the future. And hopefully, with the effort made by everybody involved in the industry, the future for both coffee and specialty coffee is a bright one.

The growing accessibility of specialty coffee The other trend that could be picked up on the LCF was the growing accessibility of specialty coffee. Once upon a time, for someone who dedicatedly looked for a cup of specialty coffee, very likely it meant a bit of travelling unless the destination was lucky enough to be in the neighbourhood. A decade has gone by, the situation now has changed drastically. Not only there are 333 cafes recorded by London’s Best Coffee and 245 by The London Coffee Guide, but also has it made Central London one of the best locations in the world for coffee lovers to visit, to cruise, and even better to reside. Alongside the expansion of independent cafes and micro chains, the explosion of the coffee culture in London has also started to find its way into other lifestyle aspects. The one-Michelin-starred restaurant, Lyle’s, has included extremely high quality coffee from the very beginning of its business; Ace Hotel, keeping its way of coffee appreciation in the US, introduced the lobby cafe Bulldog Edition with the renowned Square Mile team behind to manage; as the national library and the second largest library in the world, British Library brought Origin, specialty coffee roaster and cafe, into its main entrance; and for art galleries, they seem to take a step further, with both the Tate Britain, who was on LCF this year, and South London Gallery, starting to roast their own beans. The same development could also be seen in the ready-to-drink market. There is a rapid growth of bottled and canned cold brew coffee in the UK, their choice of stockist has also widened from only independent shops and high end department stores to quality supermarkets. The cold brew gang on LCF conveyed a shared goal for their industry, which is to make this affordable luxury more accessible to public.Those developments have all made London THE place to enjoy coffee. If you went out with the purpose of tasting a really good cup of coffee, then you’d be spoilt by choices of which cafe to go to; if

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THE BARISTA CHOICE

WITH THE STELLA DI CAFFÈ DCL Multi-boilers machine with dual command on the same machine, lever for the skilled barista who wants to further control its shots and electronic volumetric control for the beginner barista to deliver consistant cups during rush hours.

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UNIC espresso machines


Management Story/ Michael Munroe

ESSENTIALS OF COFFEE SERVICE

78


t’s Saturday morning. The all-powerful sun lights up the day, bringing life to the radiant blue of the Melbourne spring sky. Birds are singing, cars are starting and the bustle begins as the city dwellers go about their day. For me it’s a rare weekend day off and, as any barista would attest, it begins by enjoying a morning coffee prepared by someone other than oneself. I remember this morning from a number of years ago so vividly. I was treated with a simple, yet unforgettable experience and began to truly realise the importance of quality service. I was walking to a cafe that had been recommended to me by a colleague, I had heard a number of other positive things about this particular institute so I was both excited as well as slightly apprehensive, hoping that the experience would live up to the hype. As I describe the events that unfold they will no doubt read oh-so simply, and in essence they are in fact just that simple, but the execution of these fundamentals are unfortunately so rare in daily service interactions that their impact can be extraordinary. I arrived at the establishment only to be greeted by what can be best described as a mecca of coffee klatsches. In typical Melbourne coffee culture style, every table was full and waddles of caffeine hungry patrons gathered outside, patiently awaiting for their takeaway drinks. Skeptical of my chances for a table I entered the building and stood by the ‘please wait to be seated’ sign. I hadn’t had chance to glance the glorious space when a server, arms full of plates, had appeared out of nowhere to great in me passing, assuring that I would be seen shortly. I only had chance to quickly catch sight of the brew bar and espresso bar, watching the baristas shift coffees, whilst still engaging with inquisitive customers, before I was greeted by a smiling host who showed me to a small table for one. General chit-chat masked the actions of the server, a menu was placed in front of me and a water glass was poured, then as per my request, I was left to peruse the options now before me. Like I said, this all seems quite simplistic, but I couldn’t help remember the amount of times I had been to other places and been lost in the chaos of a busy morning service, being rushed to a table and left with a menu without as much as some eye contact. Comfortable in my surroundings, I felt that the team was there to aid me in getting the most out of my visit and this was confirmed when the server returned to help with my coffee order. Clearly and concisely the available offerings for espresso and filter were riddled off, including origin, farm/region and a few tasting notes, all conveyed with enthusiasm and some welcome bias. Again I reminisced on previous encounters, times where servers had no idea what alternate coffees were available and any descriptions of flavor were solely from the barista. All of this went unnoticed at the time, I was so swept out of regular mind state(default) and instead just enjoying the present moment, it was only until after as I recalled on this experience, that I realized how poignant it was.

The power of great service was revealed to me, when harnessed it can be used to coax a customer into comfort, bliss and an increased perception of quality.

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Management

To achieve a desired quality of service each person will have their own list of criteria to monitor themselves by, needless to say this will differ person to person given individual (person or business) goals of service. These goals first need to be laid out, prioritised, and then distributed amongst the service teams. What I have noticed when discussing ideas for service with peers and colleagues is that most points are agreeable, after all we tend to think quite alike and have the same end goal in mind; differences in opinion however, in my experience, have been found when placing the importance of each ‘service criteria’ on a spectrum. This spectrum I refer to helps to prioritise techniques and actions (least important - most important) in the service space when accommodating customers. Having a great team is essential for creating these systems for service as you can really debate and subsequently nail down the most efficient and effective way to award the best service possible, all the while engaging the team in the decision making process and creating shared goals. Whoever thought your high school teacher was speaking wisdom as they constantly harassed you to write down your goals for each year? Molding service to the wants of each customer can be difficult and takes practice. Right from the moment a budding coffee enthusiast walks through the door, or a caffeine hungry zombie clambers into the space a good service team will assess the subject like a meticulous TSA agent quickly deciphering the needs of the customer and tailoring their interaction accordingly. Being effective in this analysis can create personability with each customer and this can be the deciding point for their future return. Like any first impression, greeting a

customer can really set the course for the remaining engagement, that is why it is essential evoke affability and professionalism. This of course will shape how you want to carry out this ‘welcoming stage’, causing one to think of spacing or ‘staging’ right through to even a common language that would be best adopted by the team.

Quality and consistency is imperative, which is why creating these systems with a team can be more effective. This same adaptive service style must continue throughout the remainder of a customers visit, watching to see if customers are engaged in conversation amongst themselves or seem intrigued by the menu for example will require two very different interactions. This brings me to the nitty-gritty of coffee service, in particular, communicating the coffee menu and relevant information. This is the main reason for writing this piece in fact, as over the last few months I have really noticed a lack of service quality in this area. In the case of a specialty coffee venue, if a barista doesn’t know the process of the coffee they are serving or the composition of the blend they are using, or a member of the service team doesn’t know what the single origin offer is

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today or tries to sell the Kenyan offering as an extra hot soy something, then this is simply not good enough. And let’s be honest, it is not hard to get this right, is it? It’s not as if we are requesting the same level of intensity as wine servers, who need to have knowledge on an entire menu including reds, whites, sparklings, regions, varietals, oak levels and flavours. If we want to be aligned at the same professional standard as the wine industry, then we better lift our game. So what is essential information for coffee service? Again we first must refer back to my previous point regarding a tailored approach to each customer, understanding that some customers just want their caffeine fix. This is more than ok, the last thing this aforementioned customer wants at 6:30am is a barista chirping on about jasmine aromas; instead nurture them into the cold reality of morning, giving them what it is they most desire, a damn fine coffee. Equally so, we must be alert to the inquisitive coffee enthusiast who wants to explore, learn and converse. Encouraging this sort of conversation with customers is essential for spread of specialty coffee, but far too often this discourse is conflated with pretentiousness, elitism or, on the other end of the scale, a lack of knowledge on the part of the barista. Baristas need to be well versed in the coffees they are

replacement in the pursuit of coffee communication. Servers (or waitstaff) in specialty coffee shops have a responsibility to understand the product they are selling. Such an in depth understanding is not as necessary as for a barista, but being able to understand what coffees are available, where they are from, how they taste and how they would be best enjoyed is imperative for good service. In many establishments, servers are not baristas and vice-versa, therefore the service team is responsible for the making customers feel comfortable, uniquely cared for (through tailored rapport) and opening up initial conversations about coffee, all in all the service team, in many instances, is the face of the establishment. It would be fair to say that coffee, in it’s current iteration, is tasting better than ever. Specialty coffee can be found in every major city and even in most large townships. Through advancing technology, coffee quality will continue to get better and as it does sloppy service will no longer suffice. Even now it is clear that quality alone is not enough to keep customers coming back for more. Great service has the ability to provide customers with a home away from home, to engage in discussions about coffee with people at various stages of their coffee journey and to showcase our industry at the forefront of progressive, culinary experiences. So let’s do it properly.

It’s a hard knack to grasp, but getting customers excited about coffee is an effective step in creating strong relationships that will result in better business. serving, not only understanding their own choices as a barista but also processing type of each coffee and an ability to communicate the difference in processes (what each entails and how this effects cup character). Amongst this knowledge a barista should also understand how the terroir of each coffee being served might effect flavor, how roasting has been used to bring certain qualities forward and of course some information on sourcing, to ensure conscious consumers of a sustainable purchase despite the lack of certifications. Needless to say this information need not be riddled off in excess to a point of nonsensical drab, but rather, a barista can condense it into key points to help a customer understand more about their complexity of coffee production, the source of flavor and help with the choice of coffee. You may have noticed recently, your daily coffee being served accompanied with a little card companion. Their general aim is to easily convey terroir background and flavor profiles, providing the customer with the comfort to digest information at their will. Although I think this is a great idea in allowing customers to engage at their preference, it can unfortunately lead to laziness in the staff involved. These cards, beneficial as they are, should be used as an aid rather than a

ABOUT AUTHOR Michael Munroe, Instagram: @michaelmunroe.coffee, www.michaelmunroe.coffee

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CTI Class Story/ Matthew Perger

Extracaction D. I . Y

TA

STING

The very first post on Barista Hustle was about understanding the taste of extraction. Now I’d like to share a simple experiment that will allow you to taste those differences in extractions side by side. All you’ll need is coffee, scales, a grinder and an espresso machine. An important part of a Coffee Professional’s development is the opportunity to regularly taste coffees side by side. Consumers rarely get to taste different coffees simultaneously, which makes it incredibly hard for them to develop their palate. Professionals often get to taste like this multiple times every day which can make the process of palate training incredibly swift. Unfortunately, the act of tasting coffees next to each other doesn’t necessarily make it useful. You need to know why they’re different, otherwise your brain won’t be able to match the proper variables with the effects they produce. Extraction and strength are two variables that are inherently linked and difficult to separate. This experiment is designed to allow you to forget about strength and just taste the difference in extractions.

You can run these experiments with any coffee and grinder. In fact, using your usual coffee and equipment – no matter the quality – makes it infinitely more relevant to you and your typical coffee-tasting situation.

CTI

CL

AS

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S


STEP 1

Espresso

Start with your typical espresso recipe – it’s probably delicious and balanced so it will be the middle of the road for the experiment. If you’re familiar with espresso recipes, that’s great! If not, you’ll need to measure your dose and yield. Dose = The weight of coffee in the portafilter in grams. Yield = The weight of liquid espresso in grams. Don’t worry about the shot times. As long as your grinder is calibrated to make your usual recipe taste great, grind size and time don’t matter for our purposes here. Once you know these variables, you can type your typical espresso yield into the calculator①. It will figure everything out for you. You can use this calculator right now and run the experiment, but I highly recommend understanding what’s going on first. You’ll be making 7 espressos with the same dose and different yields. Those yields will sit above and below your usual recipe in intervals of 4 grams. For example my typical espresso yield is 40g, so the the 7 espressos will look like this: Espresso Yields

1

Grind, weigh, distribute and tamp your usual dose into the basket. Be as accurate as possible with the dose weight.

2 3 4

Tare your cup on a small set of scales.

Start the espresso shot and place the cup and scales beneath the spouts. As the espresso progresses, the weight will increase. Stop the shot when the scale reads 2-6g less than your target yield to allow for some drips to exit the portafilter.

5 Less Extraction

More Extraction

More Strength

More Strength

Once again, don’t worry about changing grind size, dose, or monitoring shot times. They’re not important right this minute.

Follow this process for all 7 espressos, aiming to be within 1-2 grams of the target yield (weight) each time. At this point, you have 7 espressos with different extractions and strengths. The next step will dilute those espressos so that they all have a very similar strength.

STEP 2

Dilution

The longest espresso shot will also be the weakest, so we need to dilute all of the other espressos down to the same concentration. Unfortunately we can’t make espresso any stronger, so this is the only way to achieve parity. The shortest shot will be the strongest, so it will need the most water. The amount of water needed will reduce as the yield of each espresso increases. The calculator below will tell you exactly how much water to add. Here’s the amount of water needed with my example recipe. Dilution Amounts

Less Extraction

More Extraction Same Strength

① https://baristahustle.com/blogs/barista-hustle/strength-calculators

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CTI Class

STEP 3

An important part of a Coffee Professional’s development is nity to regularly taste coffees

Tasting

You now have a neat flight of espressos with different extractions and similar strengths. It’s time to taste. Firstly, divide your espressos into 5 sections: 1 & 2: Aggressively under-extracted 3: Mildly under-extracted 4: Correctly extracted 5: Mildly over-extracted 6 & 7: Aggressively over-extracted Tasting Yields

side by side.

Taste the coffees, and record anything that comes to mind. There’s no such thing as an incorrect descriptor. Whatever your mind and palate recognizes as a flavour is perfect. The more honest you are about a flavour the easier it will be to recognize it upon the next encounter. Write down your thoughts in the form on the experiment page. The espressos will be weaker than you normally drink, so try to disregard mouthfeel and body. Instead, focus on flavour, sweetness, acidity and balance.

STEP 4

Pattern Match

Hopefully after this experiment you’ll be much more in tune with the tastes of your espresso extractions. Experiments like this are extremely valuable for palate development and speed up the pattern matching process like nothing else. The more readily you can identify faults in a coffee, the faster you can fix them! If you have enjoyed reading this and want to enjoy delicious coffee with the rest of the community.

About Barista Hustle Barista Hustle is an online blog, community for baristas founded by Matt Perger, World Brewers Cup Champion 2012. It is well known amongst Baristas worldwide as a source of advanced information and equipment for coffee making, and for the ultra premium coffee bean subscription.BaristaHustle.com

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CY

13-15 June 2017

CMY

K

e e f f o C f o d l wor

Budapest with THE SUSTAINABILITY FORUM and EDUCATIONAL SEMINARS

WOC17_CCI add v2 fa.pdf

1

19/12/2016

11:47

Explore new coffees, check out top European roasters and watch the best compete in 5 World Coffee Championships

Don’ t miss Europe’s

COFFEE EVENT

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Origin Story/ Mikhail Sebastian

NEW LEVEL OF

MYANMAR COFFEE PART 1

“You may not think about politics, but politics think about you”. The quote was stated by Aung San Suu Kyi, Burmese politician and Nobel Peace Prize winner, portrayed by Michelle Yeoh in 2011 film “The Lady”. Republic of the Union of Myanmar is an independent state in Southeast Asia that went from Imperial rule controlled by the King to occupied British colony that was annexed in 1886 to its independency that run from 1948 to 1962. From 1962 to 2011 Myanmar was under ruthless military rule

that due to economic mismanagement and political oppression turned country into the less visited nation with sanctions imposed by the world’s leading powers. Today Myanmar is the most vibrant and colorful country with more tourists entering this nation in order to learn the mystic past and modern present of this Buddhist dominated nation. Besides jade, gems, oil and natural gas, Myanmar recently went on the map of specialty coffee scene when the first samples were introduced back in 2016 cupping gathering at La Colombe in Philadelphia with collaboration of Winrok International, Atlas Coffee Importers, USAID, and CQI represented by Andrew Hetzel.

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Before coming to Myanmar I knew little about this country situation after political climate shifted to more milder and approachable way of discovering the nation that rapidly went from poverty into modernization on the global scale. Yangon as former capital of Myanmar is very hot and humid and makes it very unpleasant to wander around not to feel sweaty and tired, nevertheless, lovely and welcoming to be mesmerized by gorgeous pagodas surrounding the former capital.

1930 Roman Catholic missionaries brought Arabica coffee that was planted along the Southern/Northern Shan state and Pyin Oo Lwin district. According to the 1940 report from the Department of Agriculture of Burma, 95 tons of coffee were exported from Burma between 1932-1936. Previously, before USAID initiated project Myanmar coffee were mostly exported to China and Thailand for very cheap price where buyers won’t pay more than $2 per kg what I was told.

Specialty coffee market of myanmar

Farm vsit

My main goal was to understand and learn from the first hand about the specialty coffee market of Myanmar, its present and future, and efforts implemented by Winrok International along with USAID to change the practice of better agricultural development, and the initiative to help local coffee farmers to earn more and produce the best out from the industry Myanmar could offer. After spending 2 days in Yangon, I booked myself an express bus to Mandalay, former royal capital located in the north of Myanmar with about 9 hours comfortable bus ride. From Mandalay I had to take a two hour taxi ride further north to Pyin Oo Lwin, a scenic hill town in Mandalay division, located in the Shan highland where most of great Myanmar coffees come from. The place is absolutely picturesque, lovely, with cooler climate then Yangon, peaceful with charm of former British rule. I got in touch with major coffee producer in that area, Sithar Coffee that were kind enough to embark with me on the journey of discovering the best of Myanmar coffee. I met with Sithar Managing Director, Min Hlaing who was with me throughout of my stay in Pyin Oo Lwin area to allow me to observe as much as information I could to have a better picture of work involved around coffee estates of the region. What exactly happening in Myanmar coffee industry? According to Winrock International the USAIDfunded Value Chain for Rural Development project integrates smallholders and poor rural household into competitive commercial value chains to increase productivity and achieve agricultural growth. It is a five year project that started in 2014 and ends in 2019. The main goal is to improve the way coffee picked, processed and eventually marketed in order to attract broader international audience with purchasing ability for coffee to be exported around the globe. Improving quality from production and processing through cupping, with the goal of producing high value specialty coffees for global market is one of the main goal of organizations like Winrock and USAID to be part of the revolutionized industry that previously left unattended due to political instability. Coffee was introduced to Myanmar by missionaries in 1885, mostly Robusta but in

My first visit was to Sithar Coffee farm, Myanmar’s crop to cup coffee expert located on the elevation about 3,500 feet above sea level. The main varietals grown at Sithar are SL34, Catimore and S795 with Coffee Quality Institute’s cup Qscore above 83. Sithar is the largest investor of Mandalay Coffee Group (processing plant and USAID sponsored cupping lab that serves as exporter of Myanmar coffee as well. It was built with an efforts from local coffee farm community. Amy Van Nocker of the US is current General Manager for the next two years of contract deal) and closely collaborating with Winrock, USAID, CQI, exporting green coffees to Japan, Europe, and recently to the US. Sithar promotes women’s group in coffee industry of Myanmar and employs industry’s top notch roasting technology from Dietrich. Besides producing coffee on its own plantation (40 acres with 40,000 coffee trees planted), Sithar buys coffees from other smallholders and resell it in domestic market for coffee shops across Myanmar. The proper picking is paramount for Sithar where only ripe cherries handpicked in order to preserve the aroma and taste of the terroir. Sithar uses fully washed process with natural and honey process initiated as well to highlight flavors of the origin. Fermentation process is carefully monitored to avoid any undesirable off flavors where after the fact they are naturally sun dried to moisture level of 11-12%. The most interesting fact I found in Pyin Oo Lwin area is most coffee farms have shade grown coffee which is the most important factor for proper cherry maturation and preservation of ecosystem and biodiversity. Sithar’s farm natural forest serves as shade


Origin

MYANMAR COFFEE

protection for coffee trees while only bio-fertilizers are used without any chemical impact. The perfect climate of Pyin Oo Lwin makes it a most desirable place for Arabica coffee to thrive with an optimum daily temperature of 68F and rainfall of about 55 inches per year. When I had an opportunity to cup this year cupping competition winners of Myanmar at Mandalay Coffee Group I was shocked and more than surprised to find out that such varietals like Catimor and S795 that usually performed poorly in cupping table changed my perception of cultivar and hidden treasures behind certain varietals we know less about. Nobody argues that growing environment and varietals used to plant coffee tree will have the huge influence on cup quality and the yield. What I’ve heard here was that the yield of Myanmar coffee is low but the farms I visited in Pyin Oo Lwin area did not complain much about the yield rather than being happy of the production they receive every season.

About author Mikhail Sebastian started in specialty coffee in 2010 after discovering coffee from Ethiopia’s Yirgacheffe region. He has visited coffee farms in Rwanda, Ethiopia, Cuba, Ecuador, Brazil, Panama, Guatemala, and El Salvador. He worked with processing experiments in coffee farm in Puerto Rico. He’s trained baristas in Ecuador, has judged the U.S. Latte Art Championship, and was a technical judge at Puerto Rico’s Barista Championship and Coffee in Good Spirits Championship. Based in Martha’s Vineyard island, Massachusetts, USA where he manages coffee bar and works as barista as well.

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Brand

Barsetto

®

120 years of Italian coffee tradition In recent years as the world has been swept up in the third wave of fine coffee culture, more and more coffee merchants have been eager to try new concepts, such as nitrogen coffee, coffee beer and other endless variations. However, at the same time, there have been many brands that have consistently adhered to Italian coffee traditions and faithfully immersed themselves in building their businesses. One of these is the Italian coffee brand Barsetto, which was visited by a group from CTI. In this edition, we will tell the story of the 120-year history of “Barsetto”.

All for one perfect cup of coffee Barsetto originated from the “Barsetto Café”, which was founded in 1898. This old café from the ancient city of Rome has a history of 120 years. Its name also has a long meaning, as it is a combination of the Italian words “barista” and “perfetto”, which translates as “perfect barista.” From coffee bean processing, blending, roasting and packaging to machine technology research and development, design, and manufacturing, all products are from Barsetto’s factory and coffee research institute in Turin, Italy. As Michael Kowk, general manager of Asia Pacific, said: “This seemingly obsessive adherence is a com-

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mitment to delivering authentic Italian coffee flavour in every cup.” We can feel the appeal of Barsetto, not only from its more than 100 years of professional experience, but also its strong global supply system, which has a strict inspection and testing system for raw beans and has implemented the FTO (Fair Trade-Organic) cooperation program for the benefit of coffee farmers. Every detail in the chain is meticulously overseen, from the supply of raw materials to logistics and delivery.

Barsetto Asia-Pacific business aims to create an urban coffee ecosystem. Building on inheritance, continuing the innovation In shaping the urban coffee ecosystem, Barsetto is striving to achieve a very ambitious goal: to get Italian coffee to where it is wanted. It is easy to see that Barsetto is happy to explore and shape the future of Italian coffee development with an innovative model. Focusing on a strategy of differentiation and personalized products, Barsetto will continue to inject new vitality into traditional Italian coffee culture in the hope of attracting more young people. Last year the company launched the Tripresso portable capsule coffee machine, and this year they are expanding the range of accessories, which includes the portable Tripresso PACK and accompanying insulated cup. This range of accessories makes taking Barsetto Italian coffee with you out the door even more easy and convenient.

A global vision, a strategy of urbanization As an integrated supplier of Italian coffee, Barsetto specializes in manufacturing and selling coffee machines, coffee beans and coffee accessories. “Currently Europe, China, Southeast Asia, North America are the key areas of our business, while we are actively moving into emerging markets.” Michael Kowk said in an interview that Barsetto will implement a global strategy of urban differentiation based on the characteristics of different cities. Localization of the business will begin based on local conditions and the company will strive to become a global brand by working with the local communities on sustainable development. Unlike the main individual coffee consumption markets of Europe and America, which are already mature and where coffee drinking is ubiquitous, Asian people’s enthusiasm for coffee drinking and the pace of growth in demand has presented Barsetto with a different opportunity. In 2012, Barsetto entered the Asia Pacific region for the first time, with OCS & HoReCa commercial coffee serving as the focus of development in the region. Greater China Brand Manager Jacky Chen said: “The vision of the Barsetto Asia-Pacific business is to create an urban coffee ecosystem. We hope that in the next 3-5 years, Italian coffee will penetrate into Asia’s first and second-tier cities, covering the whole industry, all channels, and even the whole lives of people living there, so that more people who pursue taste and fashion can conveniently enjoy authentic Italian coffee.”

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Brand

HEYCAFÉ Smart grinding, made in Asia. Ilan Maimon is an engineer by profession and a committed coffee enthusiast by heart. In 2006 he decided to combine both and founded the coffee grinder manufacturing company HeyCafé. As a visionary managing director, he leads his enthusiastic team in Changzhou, China, and dedicates his work to the innovation and production of grinders for customers from the Asian region and from all around the globe. New inspirations from industry events as well as recent local requirements from coffee shops get evaluated and then translated into either product updates or into an entirely new grinding solution. Creating high quality coffee grinders to improve and enhance the user’s experience is the everyday motivation for Ilan Mainmon and his team. Whether is it a dispensing, on-demand, bulk, domestic or built-in grinder: HeyCafé coffee grinders overtake their competitors when it comes to providing the best value for money. Every machine is assembled with exceptional care and devotion – but without leaving cost effectiveness behind. While the materials as well as the operating cycles have been chosen and designed with efficiency kept in mind, they do comply with any major international security and quality standards and certifications, at the same time. This is how HeyCafé makes smart grinding available for everyone.

Efficiency is key HeyCafé is a shining example of China’s spirit to move innovative technology forwards without losing efficiency out of sight. The skilled and experienced engineers make use of the most recent insights and tools to design HeyCafé’s grinders according to the customers’ needs with a strong focus on what is truly necessary. To assure the most efficient warehousing, the company relies on its approved resource management system. Computer controlled processing machines produce all grinder components with unmatched accuracy, avoiding discards or mismatches. Finally, at the assembly lines, every single HeyCafé grinder is put together by a team of qualified technicians following optimally streamlined workflows.

The HEMRO Group The Swiss umbrella company HEMRO AG unites the unique coffee grinding expertise of the 4 international brands Mahlkönig, Ditting, Anfim and HeyCafé within one group of companies. The comprehensive portfolio of the group contains domestic grinders, espresso and shop grinders as well as industrial grinders and furthermore provides individual built-in grinding solutions for

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OEM projects for any class of performance. The more than 250 co-workers at the branches and sites in Germany, Switzerland, Italy and China all feel united by the shared great passion for good coffee. The constant and close contact with their customers and the awareness for their individual requirements motivate likewise engineering and production as well as the marketing and sales departments of all members of the group. The HEMRO Group owned engineering hub and the in-house grinding disc production,

both contribute to the exceptionally high quality standards of the HEMRO Group. Another key factor to the great success story is the utilization of synergy effects through internal collaborations. The development of visionary product innovations is only one good example of how the complementary competencies of the members of the group can impressively work together. And the mutual international distribution network has overtime become both: a unique global distribution platform as well as a reliable regional service network for the customers of each brands of the group.

HEYCAFÉ – THE YOUNGEST MEMBER OF THE GROUP. HeyCafé joined the HEMRO Group as a strategic partner for the Asian region in 2016. The high quality coffee and espresso grinders of the Chinese manufacturer enhance the product range of the group perfectly. In close cooperation with the dedicated team of the HEMRO Group Asia, the regional sales headquarter in Shanghai, HeyCafé focusses on providing grinding solutions for the continuously rising coffee industry in Asia.

The most recent highlights of HeyCafés portfolio :

2

The HC-880 – your reliable & convenient shop grinder. This heavy-duty constructed grinder is the per-

fect reliable assistant when it comes to providing your customers with freshly ground coffee for their preparations at home from Turkish fine to French press. Trust your beans on the grinding discs made out of specially hardened tooling steel and don’t worry about handling up to 16 kg coffee beans per hour easily. The indexed scale helps you finding the perfect setting for your beans. All you need to do is to choose the colour option that fits your store design best, start grinding and amaze your customers!

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The HC-123 - your individual powerful line-up.

3

Shop owners looking for a versatile grinding

The HC-600 - espresso grinding for Asia.

solution with an ultimate compact space require-

The passion for espresso beverages

ment, are welcome to take a look at the brand new

has conquered the Asian markets during the

HC-123. Thanks to its modular construction, an

course of the past decade and the number of

unlimited number of grinders with a footprint

cafés rises continuously throughout the re-

of 130mm 2 can be assembled side by side as

gion. For coffee shop owners seeking to im-

one single operating unit. Its grinding discs with

prove the workflow at their coffee bar with

64mm diameter can be set to grind for any brew-

a matching set of functionalities, HeyCafé’s

ing method from Turkish fine up to French press.

HC-600 is the ultimate choice. This robust

The actively air cooled belt drive grinder saves the

espresso grinder handles higher workloads

coffee’s aroma and produces a minimum of noise.

up to 9 kg per hour and is available either

A line-up with the HC-123 coffee grinder is no

with a smart dosing unit or as an aroma sav-

less but the perfect combination of efficiency and

ing on-demand version.

functionality.

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Brand

LA MARZOCCO INAUGURATED La Marzocco China on occasion of hotelex in Shanghai and custom GS3 models. Entertainment-wise, the La Marzocco booth incorporated a DJ set as well as presented a ludic signature Foosball table space.

La Marzocco, a leader in the production of handmade espresso machines since 1927, with headquarters near Florence, is pleased to announce the opening of La Marzocco China, with longtime local partners Gordon Chang, Douglas Chang and Ivy Yuan.

LA MARZOCCO 90th anniversary

LA MARZOCCO at hotelex 2017

In addition to the booth displays and workshops, offsite the team launched the second international date of the La Marzocco 90th Anniversary World Tour Format in the company of international management representatives and local specialty coffee professionals. The 90th Anniversary World Tour is an itinerant event format exported around the globe to convey the “handmadein-Florence” story, traditions and innovations, by means of an iconographic pop-up installation at dedicated locations, including Shanghai. The format included a replica model of the Fiorenza within a historical café setting, as well as involved an “ambassador”, stylishly dressed in a manner typical of the 1920s, who became part of the temporary café concept to nar-

The branch opening coincided with the Hotelex tradeshow in Shanghai (28-31 March), where La Marzocco, situated at booth number E6D60, celebrated its 90th Anniversary and showcased a variety of innovative espresso equipment, such as the Strada AV with Auto Brew Ratio technology, the 1-group Strada EP, the La Marzocco Reverse Osmosis water treatment system and the Modbar. The booth was divided into theme-focused areas, aimed at illustrating the journey from bean to cup. Different activities took place, including a cupping, a roasting demo, a tech session, a water filtration workshop and a La Marzocco Home brewing experience with the Linea Mini

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rate the story of the company from the early beginnings until today: ninety years of heritage, technology and design, with people, the worldwide specialty coffee community and the future placed at the center. With the introduction of novel cultural projects, initiatives and innovative products, both near Florence and around the globe, La Marzocco seeks to disseminate a new industrial humanism and coffee renaissance in 2017. While the company has experienced significant expansion in the past decade, it has not lost sight of its aim to express the values upon which it was founded 90 years ago by Giuseppe and Bruno Bambi: meticulously persevere the manufacture of the finest in class specialty coffee equipment, while encompassing people, heritage, technology and design. At the same time, La Marzocco prides itself on its keen desire to connect with local communities and build relationships to enrich the lives of others. La Marzocco China’s office and showroom is located in Tong Ren Road district, in the Silver Tower of Jiu An Plaza 258, and run by a team of industry professionals who - through dedicated initiatives, events and education - work to promote and support the local specialty coffee movement across the nation.

“Since my debut as a La Marzocco partner, I have always expected from myself and my company to act as a La Marzocco branch. I have always preached the team to pride itself in being part of the La Marzocco family, and upheld the importance of nurturing relationships throughout the local community. La Marzocco China is definitely the next step we have been looking to take, and through our years of experience, I believe we shall succeed as a whole.” – Gordon Chang, General Manager at La Marzocco China.

“This branch opening symbolizes the beginning of a new era, where specialty coffee is ready to take on the mass market coffee brands that are currently dominating the Chinese market……Being 90 years old may seem ancient, but La Marzocco is a young brand at heart thats never afraid of pushing the boundaries in all areas, be it tech development or marketing strategies. I am honored to be able to participate in shaping its next 90 years, especially in a rapidly developing market such as China” – Douglas Chang, marketing manager at la marzocco china.

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Tea

PRIMER ON TEA PAIRINGS

The art of tea pairing, much like wine pairing, is a sensory experience that explores the dynamic between the aromas and flavors we find in teas and food. The right tea will balance and even accentuate the flavors in your food.

The art of tea pairing Like wine, teas possess their own distinctive scents which are key to our experience or perception of their flavors. By analyzing the unique aromatic properties of various teas, our research has determined that certain ingredients are more compatible than others. Currently, we have analyzed the profiles of 20 different teas, which can all be found in our Foodpairing® ingredient database. Below you’ll find some helpful information for green, black and Darjeeling teas to help get you started on your own tea pairing journey.

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Zucchini

Black tea pairings The majority of the black teas consumed today come from China, India and Sri Lanka. Known for their reddish infusions, these teas are derived from both the Camellia sinensis plant and its assamica varietal. Unlike green teas, black tea leaves have been cured and are therefore fully oxidized, resulting in a somewhat more astringent taste, together with malty and woody, roasted flavors similar to bread. Black teas also have a naturally complex aromatic profile that includes the fermented, fruitier scents of banana, apple and pear, along with the more herbal aromas of cooked potatoes, zucchini and eggplant. Black Tea pairing ideas: Try experimenting with ingredients such as strawberry, raspberry, banana, pear, zucchini, cooked eggplant, sweet potato and pumpkin.

Pumpkin

Pear

Eggplant

Sweet potatoe Strawberry

Seabass

Banana

Darjeeling tea pairings

Seabass Seabass

Clam

Rose

Cucumber

Tahitian Vanilla

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Darjeeling tea is a black tea varietal, grown across the famed Golden Valley mountain district of Western Bengal. A Chinese tea tinged with Indian terroir, Darjeelings are prized for their delicate smokiness reminiscent of oat flakes,  roasted caramellic notes  and  bright green fatty cucumber-like notes. These nuanced teas also boast of honey and violet-like floral notes and citrus orange notes. Darjeeling Tea pairing ideas:  Darjeeling has a natural affinity for ingredients such as honey, vanilla, apple, rose, cucumber and coriander, but it also pairs well with elderflower, bergamot, clams and sea bass. Who would have thought?Or ingredients such as honey, vanilla, apple, rose, cucumber and coriander.


Tea Rum

Green tea pairings Tomato

Green teas are characterized by their green or golden tones when brewed, resulting from processing methods such as steaming, baking, paning or dry-roasting the leaves to preserve their light color and prevent oxidation. Harvested solely from the Camellia sinensis plant, green teas like Japanese matcha tend to have more pronounced apple and rose-like floral notes, along with certain green, fatty cucumber-type aromas. Green Tea pairings ideas: The bright flavors we find in green teas pair especially well with other vibrant ingredients like lemongrass, ginger, saffron, apple, pineapple, apricot, tomato, artichoke, cashews, anchovies, bacon and rum.

Pineapple

Anchovies

Bacon

Artichoke Lemongrass

Apple

Other tea pairing considerations As with coffee, there are many other factors that can directly affect our experience of teas. For example, brew methods (hot vs. cold) will cause certain aromas to intensify, due to the differences in temperature and steeping time which affect the oxidation of tea leaves. Be sure to consult your tea sources for proper brew times and temperatures to ensure proper extraction of the right flavors.It’s important! Texture is another element you’ll want to take into account since some teas have a more astringent mouth feel, while others may leave you with a more buttery impression.

Author Bernard Lahousse Scientist, food aficionado and Foodpairing® founder Bernard develops a scientific approach to food innovation and offers his knowledge to chefs and bartenders all around the world.

Credit foodpairing.com blog.foodpairing.com The Food & Beverage Matchmaker Copyright Foodpairing® 2017

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PESADO 58.5 CONTROL YOUR COFFEE

www.pesado.com.au


Tea Story/ Fei Liu

DANCING TEA There are many different kinds of green tea in China: fried, roasted, steamed, sun dried, etc. Because these methods are not the same, the quality of the final tea is also different. Some people say Queshe has the freshest bud, in fact the freshness of the bud is divided into types: Zisun, Qiya, Queshe; these types of green tea not only need abundant natural environments, they are also very challenging for the artisans to roast. Among them, the legendary Zisun tea has its own story to tell. Why it was named the best quality tribute tea in the mankind history? We are very fortunate to see its glory since it got put back into production in 1978 after it was rediscovered. Zisun tea is a type of half roasted

green tea, it is located at Mountain Guzhu, Changxing county, Zhejiang province. Since the place is close to Taihu lake, it has nice humidity, good amount of rain and enriched soil. Because the tea bud shows purple color, and the leaves curl together like the bamboo shoots, looking from the bottom, the leaves looks like an orchid. When brewing, these tea leaves become alive, seems like they dance in the glass. Each year around April 5th, the farmers only pick one single bud and one leave as standard. As the opening of the Classic of Tea, written by Luyu, says “the tea leaves need to live in the wild and also having a forest to cover it would be nice. It also says that purple buds are better than the green ones, also the one shooting from the root is better than a bud growing on top of the tree, curled leaves are better than

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process. It’s more about the experience, this unique method of stirring passed down from generation to generation. A lot of tea lovers like to soak the leaves in the cup for a long time, drink it, then add hot water repeatedly. However, for a better result, you need to adjust the water amount depending on the freshness of the leaves, for fresh buds small amount of water would be fine, while for aged buds more water is needed; moreover, you need to control the water temperature, try to avoid brewing the green tea using boiled water, you can let it chill for a minute or cool the tea with room temperature water or use drinking water while preparing to avoid the bitterness. Today, we are brewing two kinds of tea, Zisun and Biluochun, both with different freshness of buds.

extended. Also it is not suitable for tea leaves to grow in the shady valley, as drinking tea made from these leaves may cause diseases.” The tea legend Luyu discovered Zisun’s potential when he was researching in Changxing. After his recommendation, Guzhu Zisun was officially listed under the tribute tea in 770AD. It held the longest record in history of serving the royal palace, since it continuously served for over eight hundred years. As more tea leaves were needed, they built a first enormous royal tea factory at Mr. Guzhu called tribute tea palace. Stirring tea with your both hands in the iron pan under the high temperature, makes you combine soft and hard power. The artisans focus their mind and control the whole

1

Zisun tea

Approximately water a mo u nt * 1 . 5 % = Te a a mo u nt (depends on the freshness of the buds), brewing temperature is 75℃. After brewing, you can see the leaves are dancing up and down in the glass, tea is green, crisp and clean, the clarity is good, vivid and sweet, nice aroma with a hint of floral smell. Half roasted method brings Zisun tea a nice sweet taste, half stir fried method draws out the original aroma of the tea leaves, then you take a sip, this best Chinese tribute tea helps you relax and eases your feelings. Biluochun, a snail-shaped g re e n te a , a l s o i s ve r y we l l known in the history. The local called it “nice weird smell”, because of its unstoppable aroma. One day, the Emperor Kangxi drank it and liked it so much that named it “Biluochun”. People start picking Biluochun when the s p r i n g co me s , t hey a l s o p i ck single bud and one leave as standard, the bud is called Queshe.

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Tea

C

M

Y

2

CM

MY

Biluochun

CY

CMY

K

One of the reasons Biluochun tea has such strong aroma is the stir fried process, that it’s been through. When brewing, you can choose to use a porcelain capped bowl because the density of porcelain is so high that it’s easy to reveal the aroma and also makes it easier to smell the aroma and extend tea leaves better. The amount of tea needed is about 1/4 of the bowl, temperature is 80℃ ◊ First brewing time is about 40 seconds ◊ Second brewing time is about 20 to 25 seconds ◊ Third brewing time is about 50 seconds ◊ Fourth brewing time is about 75 seconds

You can extend the brewing time in order to fully penetrate and achieve the full release of the tea’s potential. The leaves are not fermented so the tea has a bright green color. The color of the tea not only relates to different meth-

ods of brewing, but also it depends on the freshness of the leaves. Observing the tea is a very important part of the tea leaves identification: tea color is divided into normal, split and fade. When it comes to green tea, the normal color is usually yellowish green, split color means the tea shows yellow to red color, maybe because of its improper processing, thus the leaves become stale, the fade color means the tea shows the color of grey yellow or cloudy, this maybe because the leaves are aged and not fresh. During the review, the brightness and clarity of the tea are the key elements to consider. While you are brewing at home, why not try to test your observation skills, look closely and feel the connections between you and the tea, maybe you will find out something new and exciting about your tea. While appreciating tea, we need to focus on our feelings to be able to taste it carefully. If brewed the right way, the tea will be vivid and sweet, the aroma will be especially mild and soft. No matter if you are tasting a cup of tea or brewing one, the process can surely calm you down.

PS: When you feel the tea is too strong, you can mix it with room-temperature drinking water, in order to reach the right level of concentration for you.

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www.world-of-coffeeandtea.com

BREW THE BEST

IN ASIA

31 MAY - 04 JUNE

PRE-REGISTER BEFORE 26 MAY 2017!

2017

Stop by the Celebrity Coffee Bar to see (and taste) some masterpieces by our champion baristas! SCATH will present a sampling of over 30 Thai specialty beans at World of Coffee & Tea, graded by SCATH Q Grader Cupper team. Concluding this sensory experience will be a first-of-its-kind coffee auction at Celebrity Coffee Bar.

Challenger 1

4th International Trade Exhibition for the Coffee and Tea Industry in Asia Powered by Koelnmesse Pte Ltd Ms. Jennifer Chiah Tel: +65 6500 6738 Fax: +65 6294 8403 j.chiah@koelnmesse.com.sg

IMPACT Exhibition & Convention Center Bangkok, Thailand Jointly organized by

The Thai Chamber of Commerce


Tea Story/ Love Chan

HOW TO BUY TEA? 104


When it comes to buying tea, we usually wonder how to read labels to understand what exactly we are buying. Not to mention there are various kinds of tea being sold on the web, it can simply make you feel dizzy when you just look at the labels. It’s true that the method of searching by keywords becomes a disaster when it comes to product information. For example, if I want to buy Gold Choice black tea, the search results will come out “Tong Mu Guan all yellow buds gold choice black tea Sauchong kind”, this won’t be the one that I want and the information is incorrect. Inside of Tong Mu Guan, there are no tea with all yellow buds, the Gold Choice black tea needs single bud and the Sauchong needs one bud with maybe two or three leaves, the materials are all different, how can it be the gold choice black tea and the Sauchong at the same time? As we can see, this keyword search is doing nothing but putting some interesting words together and mixing them to increase the chances of views. Once you drink tea, you want to know more about it. It is fun to know the origins of the tea leaves, that’s where the essences lie. If you want to buy tea, you should at least know some of the language, in order not to get tricked easily when doing business. First things first, what you need to know is that Tie Guan Yin is not a green tea, Dahongpao is not a black tea and the Gold Choice black tea and the Sauchong tea are different teas.Once you clarify that, take a look at the information on the labels again, and try to understand the connections between this information and the prices.

1. Genuine Yuqian West Lake longjing / 正宗雨前西湖龙井 Picking Time: Before the rain (雨前), which is around April 5th Origin: West Lake (西湖) region Type: Longjing (龙井) green tea The prices of green tea vary differently basing on its picking time. The prices reach the highest before April 5th, then it gets lower and lower. No matter it is before April 5th or before the rain, once the green tea is over a year, it becomes worthless. The West Lake means the West Lake district in Hangzhou, if the tea is not from this area, it can’t be called the West Lake Longjing. It is wrong even if the name says West Lake Longjing but the origin is from Xiaoshan, Shaoxing or any place other than Hangzhou. However, Longjing is a word to describe the appearance of green tea, once it matches this appearance, it can be called the Longjing green tea, even if it is not exactly from West Lake region.

2. 2016 fall anxi tieguanyin orchid smell tea / 2016年秋茶清香型安溪铁观音兰花香 Picking Time: Fall 2016 (2016年秋) Origin: Anxi (安溪) Tea: Tieguanyin (铁观音) oolong tea Type: Soft, mild For most of teas, the price for spring kinds is higher than for other seasons, however, Tieguanyin is the exact opposite. Well, it depends on your choice, either spring ones or the fall ones, some people like fall kinds because of the enriched aroma, others pick the spring kinds because they like the taste. The genuine origin of Tieguanyin is from Anxi. Other places such as Nanan, Zhangzhou, Putian and Sanming also produce Tieguanyin, but the qualities are not guaranteed, they can’t be called the genuine ones except the ones from Anxi (it’s the same reason as the West Lake Longjing). Orchid means the Tieguanyin has a natural floral type smell, “Golden Osmanthus” is an oolong tea with an osmanthus smell, it doesn’t mean that someone literally adds orchid and osmanthus in the tea. This type of orchid smell appears mostly in the mild kinds of Tieguanyin. There is another type of Tieguanyin which has a stronger roasting smell than the mild floral kind. If you like to drink green tea, you can try the soft and mild kind, on the other hand if you like drinking black tea, the ones with the strong aroma are more suitable for you.

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Tea

3. Top grade dahongpao Wuyiyan rougui Tea & Wuyiyan Dahongpao Laozong Shuixian Tea / 特级大红袍武夷岩茶马头岩肉桂 & 武夷岩茶大红袍老枞水仙

Left: strong aroma type; Right: soft and mild type

Left:Wuyiyan Dahongpao LaoZong Shuixian Tea Right:Top Grade Dahongpao Wuyiyan Rougui Tea

The important information about these two kinds of oolong tea may seem a bit complicated. Wuyi Yan Tea is one kind of the oolong tea, Yan Tea has many kinds such as Dahongpao, Cinnamon and ShuiXian. Because Dahongpao is very famous, in northern region of China, Dahongpao is a substitute for all kinds of Wuyi Yan Tea, which means cinnamon and ShuiXian can also be called Dahongpao. So what is MaTouYan and LaoZong? Not only a nice topography is essential for Wuyi Yan Tea, the locations of the trees can bring different flavors to the tea. MaTouYan is the name for a farm, it’s like French wines, the more accurate places you choose, the higher level of wines you can get. LaoZong means the age of the tree, similar to the grape vines, LaoZong means the leaves are picked from trees aged at least fifty years and up. Trees that aged at least fifty years old and up are mostly ShuiXian, some are LaoZong Cinnamon. LaoZong, like aged grape vines, has a unique flavor compared to the new ones, the flavor is more like a moss or wooden. The Chinese people are very nostalgic, it is very understandable thinking about how ancient Chinese people were so fond of Taihu stones and bonsai plants. Yan Tea is picked only once a year, mostly in spring, so the product information sometimes is not always fully relative. This knowledge may seem useless, but it is a pursuit of life. Every time when you appreciate tea, it will be a brand new experience, so let your senses take you to where the journey ends.

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n O pe ing a

PART 1

Origin of Chinese Ice Cream Chinese ice cream was invented to satisfy the ancient emperors’ desire for refreshment and thus has ancient origins. During the winter, huge blocks of ice would be stored in the cellars of the imperial palaces and then used to make cold foods to serve to the emperor during the heat of the summer. This was the first form of ice cream/gelato in China. However, as far back as the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the practice of simply storing ice to chill food was supplanted by a technique that was without doubt cutting-edge for its time. The discovery of gunpowder dates back to the Tang Dynasty: the Chinese made it using saltpetre, a substance which the Chinese quickly learned to make use of saltpetre’s endothermic properties in making ice cream/gelato. Then it was during the Song Dynasty (960-1279) that the first chilled drinks appeared, very similar to today’s sorbets, made by mixing ice with fruit or fruit juice, while during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), for the first time, it was decided to add milk to the mixture of ice and fruits, thus making a very similar product to today’s creams.

This is the first ice container in China.

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Legend has it that the then Chinese Emperor Kublai Khan, a great admirer of ice cream/gelato, forbade his courtiers from revealing the ingredients and directions for making it, and that it was only when Marco Polo came to China that the secret finally came out. He brought the knowledge (today we would say “know-how�) with him back to Italy, and this may be one reason why Chinese consumers regard hand-made Italian gelato as one of the best in the world.

Chinese Market Growth The history of the ice cream/gelato industry in China has experienced slow but steady growth, both in terms of quantities production and of technical improvements. After 1979, however, the Chinese ice cream industry entered a phase of rapid growth, accompanied by increasing consumer appreciation for ice cream/gelato products. Around the time of this reform, numerous manufacturers of cold drinks and ice cream/gelato, especially from Japan and Hong

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Kong, were exporting state-of-the-art technologies and machinery for the production of various types of ice cream/gelato, thus making a significant contribution to the development of the sector. Over the past 30 years, ice cream/gelato has become an extremely popular product in China and over that period, production volumes have increased about 25 fold. C u r re nt s a le s volu me s amount to around 3,800,000 tons a year and, so far in 2014, 73% of Chinese people have eaten at least one ice cream/gelato. When you consider that the Chinese population is made up of approximately 1.4 billion people, it is clear that the ice cream/gelato market offers tremendous opportunities for anyone looking to invest in the sector. Due to its low cost, industrially manufactured ice cream has become the biggest seller, taking a market share of around 72%; soft ice cream has about 21% of the market, while the share for hand-made gelato is around 7%.Chinese consumers are ever more aware of food quality, so they realise that mass production and packaging require the use of the additives and preservatives found in industrial ice creams and that soft ice creams, because of their elaborate production process, are poorer from a nutritional point of view. The freshness and excellent quality of the products used to make hand-made gelato has therefore led to it gaining an increasing market share, reducing the gap with similar products. Coupled with the consideration that China is the country with the largest number of potential consumers and given the rapid economic growth in whole new areas of the country, this makes China an extremely interesting place for anyone thinking of starting up a gelato parlour. Chinese consumers are ever more aware of food quality, so they realise that mass production and packaging require the use of the additives and preservatives found in industrial ice creams and that soft ice creams, because of their elaborate production process, are poorer from a nutritional point of view. The freshness and excellent quality of the products used to make hand-made gelato has therefore led to it gaining an increasing market share, reducing the gap with similar products. Coupled with the consideration that China is the country with the largest number of potential consumers and given the rapid economic growth in whole new areas of the country, this makes China an extremely interesting place for anyone thinking of starting up a gelato parlour.


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Opening a gelato shop in China: Getting Started It is therefore definitely advisable to register your brand right from the outset, both in English and Chinese, with the local Chinese Trademark Office. Registration is quick and inexpensive and also ensures good protection against all forms of illegal trademark use by a third party.

The decision to open a gelato shop in China involves a series of steps: choosing your premises and registering your trademark.So, first of all, let’s look at where to open your gelato parlour. If you are looking at a first-tier city such as Beijing or Shanghai, these are excellent locations for a foreign investor and can provide spaces in fashionable districts, aiming at a far more mature consumer audience, accustomed to Western lifestyle and with a bigger salaries, and yet these cities do have their drawbacks. To start with, rents for premises in first-tier cities may be two to three times higher than in other cities. Secondly, the cost of labour: an employee’s salary in Beijing averages twice as much as in a second-or third-tier city. Finally, there is the problem of getting your brand known. In fact, in a very competitive market such as in first-tier cities, already saturated with investments in the food & beverage sector, you will be competing with a number of gelato parlours which have already been up and running for several years. Therefore, it might be a good idea, to open a gelateria in a lesser-known city which offers lower start-up costs and greater growth opportunities.

Trademark As for the trademark, it is important to emphasize how it can help your gelato products stand out from those of your competitors and thus grow your business, in direct proportion to the number of consumers who recognize (and like) your brand.

www.italiangelato.info

the website is sponsored by the italian association of food indutries (gelato ingredients).

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Gelato Amarena Yogurt Gelato Ingredients

· · · · · · ·

Fabbri 50CF base powder 35g Fabbri plant fibre 30g Skim milk powder 30g Sugar 135g Milk 560g Cream 170g Fabbri yogurt powder 40g

Instructions ① ② ③

④ ⑤ ⑥ ⑦ ⑧

Add milk into the Pasteurizer and turn it on. Mix all the dry powders proportionally. Add all dry powders into milk when it is warmed up to about 40 ℃ . Add into cream when the mixture is about 45℃ . Cool down the mixture till 4℃ and aging for at least 6 hours. Mix the milk base with Fabbri base yogurt powder. Pour the milk base into the ice cream michine. Shape the gelato quickly and mix with the Fabbri amarena marbling. Put the gelato into the blast freezer for 15 minutes to harden the surface and ensure the shape. Decorate the gelato Fabbri amarena and put it into the cabinet or freezer.

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ICE CREAM

FROM ALL

AROUND THE WORLD

Summer is getting closer which means that temperature is getting higher and higher. Is there anything else that can refresh you during the dog days like ice cream does? We are all so used to our favorite type of this ice delight, but have you ever wondered how do it look like in different corners of our big planet? Let’s find out together.

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Spaghetti-Eis Germany

German ice cream looks and sounds like actual spaghetti so you need to double check before buying. This dessert started to becoming popular back in 60s and is also known as German Sundae. At the place of its origin, Germany, this icy treat is available in various flavors and, of course, in traditionals ones like vanilla and strawberry. Spaghetti-Eis was created by Dario Fontanella, the third generation of the Italian famous gelato making family Fontanella, in Mannheim, Germany, in 1969. After Dario immigrated to Germany in 1932, this Italian boy wanted to make his family proud by serving gelato in a fresh new way. After some experiments, he finally discovered a method of pressing vanilla ice cream through a potato ricer to create “noodles�, he used strawberry sauce to substitute tomato sauce, and at the same time coconut or white chocolate shavings to play the role of Parmesan. A very cute Sundae that every one of us dreamed of when we were kids.

Mochi ice cream Japan

Mochi means rice cake in Japanese. Mochi ice cream is a small, round dessert ball consisting of a soft, pounded sticky rice cake formed around an ice cream filling. The ice cream flavors the confection while the mochi adds sweetness and texture. This dessert combines both eastern and western specialties. Mochi is a must during every Japanese New Year celebration. Because of its round shape and amazing filling, mochi has a meaning of everlasting happiness. An early predecessor form of this dessert Yukimi Daifuku, was originally produced by Lotte in 1981. The company first made the product by using a rice starch instead of sticky rice and a rice milk instead of real ice cream. In 1993, handmade mochi ice cream started to appear in the U.S. market, since then it began its journey into the world.

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Clotted Cream United Kingdom

The Golden Clotted Cream with waffles and strawberries, that’s a must-have side dish for the genuine English afternoon tea. The clotted cream is created by steaming the full-cream milk to get rid of the extra water within, then by cooling the milk, it becomes the clotted cream. During the process, the cream content rises to the surface and forms clots, that’s where the name came from. The taste of the clotted cream is nutty and a bit roasted, the grainy and nutty feeling comes from the clotted milk fat from the surface. The average milk fat of the clotted cream reaches up to 66%.

Gelato Italy

Gelato is famous for being low fat, fresh and healthy. It is not only the key component of the delicious Italian cuisine, but also ruins the myth that healthy food is not tasty. Anyway, there are two kinds of gelato, one with either cream, milk or fresh fruits as the main ingredients, the other one is sorbet which has hardly any milk in it.

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History: It is believed that clotted cream was brought to the United Kingdom by Phoenicians in BC 500. Right now, Cornwall and Devon are the two biggest clotted cream producer regions in the UK. The clotted cream from Cornwall has a unique color, which comes from the local vegetation enriched with beta-carotene. The preservation of clotted cream is very short, which becomes a problem for international shipment. In 1998 the term Cornish clotted cream became a Protected Designation of Origin(PDO) by European Union directive, as long as the milk is produced in Cornwall and the minimum fat content is 55%.


Dondurma Turkey

Dondurma maybe the most chewy ice cream among all of them, sometimes you even might need knife and fork to help you eat it. Dondurma’s ingredients include milk, sugar, salep and mastic. The main purpose of salep is to increase the stickiness of Dondurma, to stretch it longer without breaking. History: Dondurma is believed to originate from the city of Maraş . The city is surrounded by mountains, sheep farms and salep orchids. The locals mix these special ingredients together to make Dondurma. As now the salep orchids are becoming rare, the amount of 250 salep orchids to make one kilograms of salep paste is almost impossible. The reason why Turkish ice cream is so popular is that the seller interacts with customers while he is making the ice cream. Even in 2016, Chinese pop singer Jay Chou created a song named after the Turkish ice cream, the song describes the fun of this unpredictable interactive game, just like Jay Chou’s music.

Besides those ice cream that we already described above, there are many more other kinds of ice cream that represent each country, such as Ais Kacang from Malaysia, Mihimihi made with the best quality milk cream from New Zealand, Tartufo from Italy and Akutaq appears almost everywhere in Agentina and famous in Alska, etc.. With each ice cream, you buy not only a sweet treat, but also history and culture blended together by people who created the original recipe.

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Australia Andrea Dolegna 428 johnston street,Abbotsford VIC 3067, Melbourne, Australia +61 0448 696 844 andrea@dolo.net.au

Indonesia Hendri Kurniawan Ruang Seduh Kemang, Jl. Kemang Raya No. 8B (Belakang Toko Aksara), Jakarta 12730 Indonesia +62 819 266 5758 kulikopi@yahoo.com

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Coffee tea&i Magazine #58 EN  
Coffee tea&i Magazine #58 EN  
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