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sW I m su I T I s su e

may/June 2017 vol. 12 > no. 3 CenTral CalIfornIa surfInG maGaZIne


May/June2017 3


VENTURA: Sat., May 20th San Buenaventura State Beach 11:30 am/12:30 pm - 5 pm

CARPINTERIA: Sat., Aug. 12th






JUNE 2-4, 2017 JUNE 2ND | Surf Movie Night Kick off this 3-day event with our Surf Movie Night: Big Waves on the Big Screen at the historic Fremont Theater in San Luis Obispo. The legendary Chris Burkard will be premiering his movie “Under an Arctic Sky!”

JUNE 3RD | Rabobank’s Barrel to Barrel Held on the ocean front lawn at the Cliffs Resort in Pismo Beach, this event features live music by Joe Koenig & the Homewreckers, over 40 visiting wineries & breweries, local cuisines, and our Wine, Waves & Beyond themed auction! *This event sells out – purchase tickets early.

JUNE 4TH | 805 Surf Classic Presented by Still Frothy Contest heats offered at Pismo Pier for Longboard & Team Shortboard, Challenged Athletes, and Winemakers & Brew Masters. Alongside the Surf Contest, will be the 805 Classic Beach Party & Vintage VW Display. Enjoy a free concert on the beach with Live Music by Boomer Surf Band and Shane Stoneman, a festive Beer Garden featuring Firestone Walker Brewing Company, and delicious tastes from local food trucks.

May/June2017 5

First guy out - r incon. P h o t o by : D a ViD P owD r e ll

January/February 2017 Vol. 12 > no. 1 Central CaliFornia SurFing Magazine

General InquIrIes & submIssIons: (805) 684-4428

owned & operated by rMg Ventures, llC Carpinteria, Ca 93013 DeeP Surf Magazine assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. DeeP Surf Magazine is a registered trademark.





Chuck graham

branden aroyan Justin Cochrane glenn Dubock broc ellinger Chuck graham Craig hamlin Michael Kew brent lieberman tom Modugno David Powdrell David Pu’u Jon reis ryan taylor william tovar luke williams @Canstock Meadow rose Photography @wSl

Christian beamish Craig Comen nicole De leon Derek Dodds glenn Dubock Carrie Flack, MS, rDn Chuck graham Craig hamlin Daniel hamlin Michael Kew brent lieberman David Pu’u Shawn tracht Megan waldrep

Copy eDITor Christian beamish proDuCTIon & DesIGn Kristyn whittenton aDverTIsInG sales Drew Merryman andres nuño Shawn tracht supporT Peter Dugré rockwell Printing

publIsHer: Mike VanStry assoCIaTe publIsHer: gary l. Dobbins

May/June2017 7

Mi C ha el K ew

Cr a i g h a Mli n

52 SurViVing texaS CanS toCK

63 Diet For SurFerS b re nt l i e b e rMan

16 untolD Story: PiSMo

30 Photo eSSay: winter

InsIde thIs Issue

CoV e r Ph ot o by Dub oC K.CoM

Sage erickson has ridden countless waves all over the world but when she is home for the holidays her fluid style plays out best on her home waters..


12 22 24 26 28 38 41 58 60

newS oCean View gone SurFing with laDieS rooM reFleCtionS Center Stage SwiM Suit iSSue boarD traChting green rooM

62 67 68 69 71 78 80 82

CoMen SenSe ShaPer’S bay northern exPoSure MoVie reViewS SurF CaMP CaSCaDian rhythMS DroPPing in on Final FraMe

Go Vintage. 805.456.9834 @brodytravel

May/June2017 9

Photo by: Peter Kappen

Van, Truck & Trailer • Sourcing & Renovations

who’S on boarD?

P h o t o : w i l li a M toV e r

ToM MoDugNo PhotograPher

where in goleta DiD you See the biggeSt iMPaCt leFt by thiS PaSt winter’S rainS? the most dramatic impact was definitely at el Capitan Canyon. A gentle creek turned into a car shredding monster in a matter of minutes, and all but destroyed an entire campground.

Carrie FlaCk, MS, rDN regiStereD Dietitian

go-to Meal beFore or aFter SurFing?

FRoM the edItoR summer is nearly upon us and I have to say I’m still holding onto winter as evidenced by the throng of images inside this issue of deeP from the wettest winter in at least a decade. I reasoned there’s no sense in prolonging the potential of another surf-starved summer and instead cling to the good waves over the last winter. You’ll find a winter photo essay inside revealing just that from the likes of Brent Lieberman, Glenn dubock and tom Mudugno. Also inside is a story by nutritionist Carrie Flack about eating right with the surfer in mind. Whether we enjoy it or not, surfing becomes more of a challenge as we grow older, but one way to combat that impending obstacle is simply eating healthy as much as we can. there are many terrific 10

options out there right now so there are really no excuses, especially if your goal is to stay in the water. speaking of staying in the water, that might difficult to do if you’re a surfer from texas. even so, travel writer and long-time deeP contributor Michael Kew recently found himself in the Lone star state making the absolute most out of the dribble in the Gulf. Reading it and looking at his pictures made me appreciate the south and Central Coasts that much more. enjoy. Chuck Graham

My go-to meal after surfing is grilled fish tacos with lots of guacamole!

luke WilliaMS PhotograPher

where Do you liKe Shooting FroM the MoSt? the water or beaCh? I like to shoot wherever I’ll get the best shot. If the waves are pumping though, I prefer to be in the water.

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MOUNTAINAIRSPORTS.COM Photo courtesy of Hobie, Carve, Sperry, Merrell, Thule, Teva

May/June2017 11


P h oto: © w S l / Ce S tari


o ff a n D run n InG by Ch uCK g ra h a M

It’s always interesting watching the World surf League (WsL) begin a new year in Australia. there is a lot of anticipation as to how the local contingent will fare. It’s those early round debacles that need to be avoided, but there are a lot of talented surfers out there on the World Championship tour (WCt), so it’s not realistic to think that the 805 surfers can dodge those first and second round hiccups as they compete across the globe. santa Barbara’s Conner Coffin surfed solidly in the first two events garnering 9th place finishes in both the Quiksilver Pro on the Gold Coast followed up by the drug Aware Margaret River Pro in West Australia. It was the Rip Curl Bells 12

Beach Pro where Coffin couldn’t elude a second round defeat, the kind that can fester throughout the year. nevertheless, Coffin finds himself rated 15th following the Australian leg of the WCt. Ventura’s sage erickson and santa Barbara’s Lakey Peterson are both off to what are arguably their best starts of their careers. each found a groove with Peterson reaching the final (2nd place) of the Quiksilver Pro and the semifinal at Bells. erickson earned a 3rd in pumping Margaret River and a 9th at Bells. heading out of Australia Peterson finds herself rated 5th and erickson 10th. on to Rio.

JUNE 2-4, 2017 JUNE 2ND | Surf Movie Night Kick off this 3-day event with our Surf Movie Night: BigPhoto: Waves ©onwthe S l /Big b a r r i PP Screen at the historic Fremont Theater in San Luis Obispo. The legendary Photo : © w S l / S l o a n e Chris Burkard will be premiering his movie “Under an Arctic Sky!”

JUNE 3RD | Rabobank’s Barrel to Barrel Held on the ocean front lawn at the Cliffs Resort in Pismo Beach, this event features live music by Joe Koenig & the Homewreckers, over 40 visiting wineries & breweries, local cuisines, and our Wine, Waves & Beyond themed auction! *This event sells out – purchase tickets early.

JUNE 4TH | 805 Surf Classic Presented by Still Frothy Contest heats offered at Pismo Pier for Longboard & Team Shortboard, Challenged Athletes, and Winemakers & Brew Masters. Alongside the Surf Contest, will be the 805 Classic Beach Party & Vintage VW Display. Enjoy a free concert on the beach with Live Music by Boomer Surf Band and Shane Stoneman, a festive Beer Garden featuring Firestone Walker Brewing Company, and delicious tastes from local food trucks.

WIne Wav es a n D beyo n D three days of rocking good times are coming to Pismo Beach with the Wine, Waves, and Beyond event running from June 2 through June 4. surf Movie night kicks off festivities Friday, June 2 with the Central Coast’s own Chris Burkhard premiering his film, “under an Arctic sky” at the Fremont theater in san Luis obispo. on saturday, June 3 rd, on the oceanfront lawn at the Cliffs Resort in Pismo Beach, Joe Koenig and the homewreckers will play live while over 40 wineries and breweries and local restaurants serve up their best offerings. the Wine, Waves, and Beyond auction will also be held and the event sells out each year, so get tickets early. Finally, on sunday, June 4, the 805 surf Classic runs at Pismo Beach Pier with divisions for Longboards, team shortboards and Challenged Athletes, as well as Winemakers and Brewmasters. Running concurrently, the 805 Beach party and Vintage VW display will keep things lively shore side. the Boomer surf Band with shane stoneman will play and the brews will be flowing in the Beer Garden with selections of Firestone Walker Beers and local food trucks to choose from. For more information and tickets, visit -Christian Beamish May/June2017 13


Cole robbins, evan trauntvein, Chad Marshal, t roy Mothershead from left to ri ght.


P h oto: w i lli aM Stone

T I p TIme aT s u rfer ’s poInT

Cole robbins P h oto: w i lli aM Stone

T He p rol oG u e sI nG le f In l on G b oa r D e v en T W ra p u p

sunny skies and clean, reeling waves greeted competitors in the Prologue singlefin Longboarding event on sunday, April 2nd at Ventura’s C-street “surfer ’s Point.” some of southern California’s best longboard riders gathered for the pre-event dinner/party on saturday night before hitting the surf in sunday’s competition, where the emphasis wasn’t so much on cut-throat winning, but rather a display of classic longboarding style. An award was given out, for example, for “Best shared Wave,” that went to tommy Witt and Jared Mel—two stylers of growing reputation in these circles worldwide. still, for all the appreciation of the surfers’ rides there was one man in first place at the end of the day, and that man was santa Barbara’s Cole Robbins, who’s style has developed on the clean point waves of his home stretch of coast. troy Mothershead (who has, incidentally, won in Joel tudor ’s duct tape Invitational in Australia—which the Prologue was modeled on) took second place. Malibu’s Chad Marshall came in third, evan trauntvien came in fourth, and heston Jordon, Joe Rickenbraugh, sam Mclennen and Josh seeman finished equal fifth and sixth, respectively. -Christian Beamish

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The UnTold STory of

Pismo Beach worDS + Ph otoS by Craig haM lin

the dog days of summer


i love when Kilian g arland is out, good things happen.

May/June2017 17

Pismo attracts all kinds of people even acrobats.


was recently looking through some of my old surf magazines and came across an article in the June, 1965 edition of surfing Illustrated about a visit to Pismo Beach by members of the popular Malibu surfing Association. the article described Pismo as having “well formed waves rolling to the beach,” that stayed glassy after hours of surfing—one of the most “outstanding surf areas north of Rincon.” now that is a huge statement, as it leaves out places like hammonds, Campus Point, el Capitan and the Ranch, just to name a few. there is some irony here with a story in Central Coast folklore. the story tells of a visit Kelly slater made to the Central Coast around winter 2005. the story reports that slater surfed this part of the coast and liked Morro Bay, and a highly localized reef break, but stated that Pismo Beach was one of the worst waves he has ever surfed. now I am not going to try to make a liar out of slater, but I would like to make a case that there are many faces to Pismo and I have tried to select some photos that will make my case (a picture is worth a 1000 words). I have been photographing Pismo since 1996, and I have seen surf conditions change within a matter of minutes. there are no kelp beds at Pismo and wind conditions are critical—even more than

austin neumann, a solid up and comer who rips the Pier, is a w alt Cerny protege.


although garland doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t live in the area anymore, when he comes north you can usually find him at the Pier.

May/June2017 19

Pismo’s boardwalk and shops

walt Cerny, one of Pismo’s most noted surfers, helps promote surfing through his sponsoring of an annual contest with an air show.


most breaks. the City of Pismo Beach is a classic California beach town—home to five surf shops, lots of unique eateries, a real “boardwalk” and of course the 1,370-footlong pier. If you walk up and down the pier twice you will have walked a mile and many residents of Pismo use walking the Pier as their daily exercise. Between santa Barbara and santa Cruz, Pismo serves as the hub of the Central Coast surf community. the pier is home to Walt Cerny and Billibong’s annual surf contest, “still Frothy After All these Years.” the contest features an air show with surfers like tim Curren, dane Reynolds, nate taylor, Killian Garland, and Kalani Robb showing up to be launched into waves by the use of a jet ski. once a year there is a disabled Veteran’s surf day that draws 20 to 30 disabled vets who learn to surf despite their disabilities. In october the City of Pismo puts on a Fall Festival that includes a halloween costume contest, and on that day you can see anything from Wonder Women to darth Vader walking the Pier there are days when Pismo’s waves can hold their own with any of the Central Coast

gems. It can produce long rides, barrels, and sometimes you can see someone shoot the pier. It can get crowded, but it is not localized like other spots. (the rest of the story of slater at the notorious localized reef finds him walking out to his car to discover that his tires had been flattened. there are some regulars at the pier: Walt Cerny (Pismo’s unofficial mayor), eric and Jason Knowles, the soderquist brothers, Robbie dominques (esteem surf shop), dan hamlin and Rick Gannon and up and coming grom Braden Jones to name just a few. the fall and winter usually produce the best waves, however, summer swells can produce powerful lefts. Crowds are directly impacted by what’s happening at Cal Poly, and thins out considerably during summer and winter breaks. Finals week is also generally less crowded. I first surfed Pismo in 1963. At that time, there were maybe 30 surfers in the area. today, well over a thousand patrol this part of the Central Coast. the surf culture is fully embraced by the City of Pismo and although it will never be surf City (huntington Beach), on some days it’s a close second. ♦

Pismo is home to a large population of long boarders. Danny wilson hangs ten.

when fishermen have fish too small to keep, they toss them to an eager bunch of seals.

walt Cerny, Pismoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unofficial mayor, laying down a rail retro-an annual contest sponsored by esteem Surf Co.calls for retro 1970 boards and costumes to match.

walt Cerny local billiabong Pro

May/June2017 21

oCean vIeW

W e aTHer C Hanne l


worDS + P hoto by DaViD Pu’u

ast August I stood on a ridgeline at Figueroa Mountain, which overlooks the santa Ynez Valley, with Blue Wolf and tatacho. the sun was beginning to drop into the West. We had been looking at the droughtravaged trees in the area, which is home to the remarkable place tatacho has built on the mountain, where people come to learn about adobe mud-building construction from a man who has mastered the craft. A light westerly breeze blew the scent of the baking valley, up to us on the mountain. I was there to shoot some of the goings on at tatacho’s place, but I also had a question to ask my friends, both of whom I consider to be men who are literally a part of the natural order of things, right where we were standing. “hey you guys, I have been studying ocean temperatures and wind patterns in the Central Pacific and equator. A lot of meteorologists seem to be passing around the story that this winter season we are going to experience a La nina weather event in the Pacific and the drought is going to continue. I am just not seeing that. I suspect it is going to be just the opposite. It is like these people are all playing a game of telephone and no one is really looking at what is right in front of us all in the data resources. I think we are going to experience a water re-set in California. What do you think?” And this is what they both said. “oh yea, flood year. You can see it coming. this has happened before” As winter passed, what we had talked about on the mountain came to pass. once more up at tatacho’s land to do some night sky timelapse work, we drank in the heady mix of scents and pulse of the place. It occurred to me that within surf culture, where we live according to the rhythm of weather and water so we can be where surf happens, that maybe the most intelligent voice in the room with regard to our planet, is our own. the image this month was shot during a three week spell of perfect light and weather for my wave work. I knew it would not last long, so I hit it hard and built over 500 A-list images. It pays to stay connected to the ocean. ♦


one of over 500 a list images shot over a 3 week period the weather set in and surf got miserable. t he bar is water work, and i wait for the entire year to shoot in a 3 month window of perfect light. this year it was 3

before high in narrow weeks.

May/June2017 23

Gone surfInG WITH… the Channel islands restoration crew from right: Field Manager, Daniel hart; head ecologist, elihu gevirtz; and Project Manager, Kevin thompson. P ho t o: SubM i t t e D

Go ne sur fIn G WITH D anIel H a r T


by Ch ri S t i a n be a M i S h

t might sound kind of cheesy,” daniel hart told me the other night over a couple of beers at Island Brewing Company in Carpinteria, “but when I saw Laird hamilton get spit out of that barrel at teahupo’o in Step Into Liquid, I knew what that felt like and I wanted to surf.” this was many years ago in Cleveland, tenn., where hart had spent most of his life (his family with deep roots in Appalachia, going back many generations). now 38-years-old, hart and his wife Amanda (also from Cleveland, also with family roots deep in that soil) have been living and raising their children in Carpinteria for ten years—moving out west primarily for the waves. A friend of theirs lives in south Pasadena and even if not a surf town, the harts were visiting on every holiday, daniel trekking out to surf the LA beaches. Also, back home in tennessee, they would make the ten-hour drive to the outer Banks once surfing became part of daniel’s program. But as any surfer knows, you can’t just surf “sometimes.” It’s a pursuit that takes day-in, dayout dedication for mere proficiency. Bad traffic one day had daniel pull off the road in Carpinteria, and one look at the town—Linden Avenue, the shops, the mountains just back from the coast, the beaches and proximity to Rincon, the schools–made him think “this was the place for us.” he said it reminded him of their hometown. so they made the leap, Amanda staying behind with their four kids (at that time) until daniel could establish a home base. With a degree in Landscape design and a minor in horticulture from the university of tennessee, he’d long been managing projects and over the past number of years he has been doing restoration work as an operations Manager.


More on that in moment, but for now, consider the pull of surfing that would have a man move his wife and four children to the opposite side of the country, away from the networks of friends and family. And it’s not that Cleveland, tenn. is a terrible place, either. the town might not have a world-class point break five-minutes away, but those Blue Ridge Mountains hold magic of their own in the ancient forests and creeks, hidden hollows, and the turning of the seasons. still, you need an ocean if it’s surfing you’re after. the harts don’t complain, that’s not their style, but we talked about how surfing gets—the entitlement some of us “native” Californians feel, the aggressive vibe in the water sometimes. they don’t want to come off as being critical, but it’s been hard for them to understand the guarded feelings they encounter occasionally when people make a point of stating the number of generations their families have been in California—the subtext being ownership, possession. My words here, not the harts’: But California and the infrastructure that makes living and working here possible has been subsidized by warfare, indigenous subjugation, and the Federal Government since statehood, so “claiming” the region—either outright or by implication—entails a thick gloss over an unsavory history. “the way I see it,” daniel told me as Amanda brought us another round, “there are givers, takers, and keepers: ‘Keepers’ keep to themselves, ‘takers’ just take, and ‘givers’ give.” Consistently working in recent years with the Carp skate Foundation, a nonprofit group of mostly born-and-raised Carp skater/surfers, the harts are committed to seeing a public skate park built in the city. the city council is on board, and the project is in the planning phases

with a proposed site near the sheriff’s substation on the east end of Carpinteria Avenue. the harts’ 14-year-old son is a skater/surfer like dad, who has always been into the life since early in his youth in tennessee and Georgia, the reach of skateboarding being even greater across the country than that of surfing. the restoration work hart does has an impact on the land that begins to move in the direction of restoring balance. As the operations Manager for Channel Islands Restoration, hart is currently at work in the hammond’s meadow, eradicating invasive plant species as the first step towards developing a planting scheme to re-establish California natives, both for the sake of the plants, but for the habitat they create as well. Chumash from the Barbareño band are consulting on the project, and CIR’s stated goal is to “return the meadow to a state that would have existed when the Chumash lived there.” the weed eradication is being achieved with a non-toxic spray of orange peel, cloves, and cinnamon. the poet Gary snyder has written about the notion of “new natives”—people here in the West who have begun to see the land and the creatures on it as a unified and sacred whole in the way



T He T oWn mIG HT n oT Hav e a W o r l D-Cla ss poInT br eak f Iv e -m I nuT es a Wa y , buT T Hose b l u e r I DG e moun TaI n s H ol D m a G I C of T HeIr oWn In THe a n CIen T f oresT s a n D C r e e ks, H IDDen Ho lloWs…

of native Americans. As if the land itself—the spectacular quality of the watersheds and western shore—transforms the rational, calculating mindset of settler culture. to be fair, I don’t know if the harts have a latter-day indigenous worldview. My sense is that Amanda and daniel just go to work raising their children and restoring impacted areas like the Goleta slough, hammond’s meadow, and Cosca way out in Ventura County, where daniel has also been involved in spreading soil with a strain of native estragalas native that was thought to have gone extinct, without a lot of theorizing. And their kids? there are six of them: a 20-year-old son, graduate of Carp high and now in college in tennessee; a daughter 17 at Carp high; a daughter 16 at Carp high, the 14-year-old skater/surfer at Carp high, a four-year-old son, and a two-yearold daughter. “We were inseparable,” Amanda says of herself and daniel, who became a couple in high school. they married soon after graduation, and lest anyone think that’s what all the kids did in Cleveland, tenn., the harts told me that they were the only ones out of their circle of friends to do that. their children have come, with the ten-year gap between their 14- and four-year-olds, out of the love they share, and the harts almost seem amused by the mystery of it—the unique personalities of each son and daughter, and the way their parents have been baffled by so many offspring. But who better to bring the next generation in than two committed people, clearly connected for the long haul and connected by work on the land and a crazy draw to the sea? ♦



laDIes room

all smiles when you pull off surf sessions together when the kids are small.

mak InG sou n D CH oICes


words b y Nicole d e l e oN • Ph ot o by Jus t i N coch ra N e

hile I strolled the beach, gazing longingly at a perfectly angled swell at the Queen of the Coast, this was a new challenge for me. You see, I was about to become a mom for the first time, and at six months pregnant it was also the first time in 22 years that I wasn’t able to paddle out. For anyone, man or woman, who has sacrificed something they’ve loved and cherished as much as surfing, they know even the most dignified the reason, it is not always easy. For myself and many others, surfing is so much more than just a “sport” or “hobby” that can transiently come and go throughout our lives. Because surfing encompasses so many facets of who we are, having to “opt out” for any significant period of time can be quite distressing. there are, of course, many good reasons throughout our lives when surfing simply cannot be first priority, and I believe these are important and humbling experiences. surfer parents have all gone through this at some point. For example, when mom is pregnant and can’t paddle out, or our children’s activities


require one or both parents to miss that glassy morning session. so I interviewed local surfer moms heather hudson, Lynn Cochrane, and Rebecca Frodsham to clue us in on how they balance surfing and parenthood.

h ow DiD M oth erh ooD Ch ange y our out looK on Su rFi ng?

lynn: Being a parent definitely changed my outlook on surfing, especially in the early stages. For one, I really appreciated being in the water, no matter what the conditions! Becky: no matter what the conditions are like, I’m just happy if I have any free time to get in the ocean. I sometimes feel like the crazy person running down the beach, speed paddling out to the lineup, trying to catch as many waves as possible in an hour then jamming out of there. Heather: I learned to appreciate my surf time even more! When you have kids, your life is not your own anymore, and you are responsible for these amazing little beings.

lynn: Being a surf mom is great. If you’re lucky enough to have a friend who has the same crazy beach stamina to meet you for surf trades, the benefits and rewards are astronomical. Heather: Finding the time to surf was the biggest challenge. having kids isn’t easy. It’s a 24/7 job. surfing was my “alone” time & my exercise. so I just had to put surfing on the back burner for a while and enjoy pushing the stroller to the park and hanging out with my boys.

wh a t ha V e S o Me o F t h e b en eF i t S b een ?

lynn: eventually, you’ve turned your baby into a surf kid and your job is done, destiny set! now all your family vacations are geared around surfing and your life is complete. Becky: the number one best benefit is sharing my love of the ocean with my children. It’s also been great connecting with other surfing parents and having super fun beach days with everyone.

Ca n yo u r e M e Mb er a S P e C i F i C t i M e wh en balanCin g S u r F in g a nD P a r en t h o o D C a Me t o a h eaD?

Becky: I’ve had to skip some epic days due to kids being sick, but last year I missed a call from the preschool when I was in the water telling me that my daughter was really sick. When I finally arrived to pick her up I felt like the absolute worst parent ever. Heather: oh my, it happens all the time. When I’m not surfing


I Was ab ouT To b eCom e a m om for THe fIr sT TIme, a n D a T s I x monTHs pr eG nanT IT W a s a l s o THe fIr sT TIme I n 22 y e a rs T H a T I Wasn’T ab l e To pa D D l e ou T .


wh a t ha Ve b e en S o Me o F t h e Ch a l l engeS th at ha Ve a C Co M Pan i eD b ei n g a Sur F er anD a Fi rSt tiMe P a r e n t?

I’m thinking about surfing, so it’s best not to get frustrated when I can’t go. Back then, I just had to settle in and focus on what was important in my life at that time.

Do y ou h aVe any Su ggeSti onS For ot he r S urF e r Par entS on h ow to Stay leV el h eaDeD whe n you D on’t alw ay S get th e w ater ti M e y ou ’r e uSeD t o?

lynn: Let’s get real—it’s impossible to stay level headed all the time, so even strolling down to the beach and getting in the saltwater with baby helps. Becky: Always remember—no pain, no gain! even though it may not feel like it at the moment, being a parent is so much bigger than surfing and kids do grow up really fast. Heather: Looking back now that my boys are in their 20’s, those early childhood years fly by in the blink of an eye. My advice to any surfer who has to sacrifice this time is to know that you’ll never get those years back, and your kids need you to nurture, love, and guide them. ♦

Santa Barbara Surf Adventures Surf & Water Safety Summer Camp

Camps from June 12 through August 18 Each Session 1 Week • Located at Leadbetter Beach Santa Barbara Surf Adventures Leadbetter camp is a one week surf camp geared towards first-time and beginner surfers. All Instructors have CPR and First Aid Certification. Recommended for Ages 8 years and up with basic swimming skills.

$62 daily or $310 a week Call (805) 963-1281 or visit Signup ONLINE or at the Beach House Surf Shop 10 State St., Santa Barbara

Wetsuits & Soft Surfboards Provided. FREE t-shirts and hat. Daily lunch & drinks from Shoreline Cafe. May/June2017 27

Reflections worDS + Photo by brent lieberMan



rIn Con ClIffH ouse

went straight to the dMV on my birthday in 1966, as all teenagers did back in those days. to my surprise, I passed the first time and got my license, which I knew would open up a whole world of surf exploration to my friends and me. When my mom and I got home a couple of hours later, two lawyers in suits knocked on our door to tell me that they were delivering a car that I had inherited from a great uncle, who I had met three years earlier when he came out for about a week to stay with us for my Bar Mitzvah! how stoked was I, a near-new 1955 oldsmobile? Gas was 25 cents a gallon and the door to the world just flew wide open. My mind was racing to all those places I had been reading about in the surf magazines for years—places like san diego and Baja. shortly thereafter, I sold that trusty oldsmobile and purchased my first of many econoline Vans. First thing I did was build surfboard racks inside to hold two boards up near the roof, and the second most important item, a bed. these improvements made it much easier to ditch school and go surfing, now that my folks couldn’t see my 9’6” in the house anymore. the racks and bed also made it perfect for going on long surfing trips from Baja to the northern most points that felt like Alaska in those days. My first econoline was a 1961, which had such a small engine that I could slide a brick over the gas pedal on the freeway for cruise control. the brick would keep the van topped out at around 60 mph, except for the Conejo Grade, which it could do at around 35-40 miles per hour. this image is from one of those trips north to Rincon in 1967 to camp out for the weekend. driving by and seeing Little Rincon un crowded like this was fairly common in those days. It was a good sign that we were going to score at Rincon. For many years you could camp right on the 101 next to your favorite break and not be hassled by anyone. those were great times to be a teenager! ♦

Long-time photographer Brent Lieberman takes a long look back at the 1960s and ‘70s along the central and south coasts during the days before leashes arrived and those dreaded cell phones too.

“little rincon” aka rincon Cliff house-1966 low tide no one around.

May/June2017 29

a Photo eSSay

A Winter it Was

y ou know the surf is pounding when it creates itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own salty fog bank P h o t o : D u b o CK.CoM



worDS by ChuCK g rahaM

read the article in the Los Angeles times last fall. It was a story about the strong possibility of a La niña episode bearing down on Central and southern California for the duration of the winter of 2016–17. La niña events typically follow el niño winters, but the winter of 2015–16 was a weak el niño episode producing very little rain in southern California. so when I read that article about an impending La niña, I’ll admit my heart sank a little. dry conditions were not what I wanted to read about, considering the persistent drought conditions plaguing the Golden state. however, in october 2016, it rained three times and the surf was fun and relatively consistent. the same could be said of november. then december arrived and rainy days increased, although the surf slacked off until the last week of the month. Just like that, January was upon us and it rained a lot and the surf was there. Could February keep pace? It felt like winter was on a roll. It was a soggy month with steady rain keeping things wet, and then February 17 and 18 proved to be the apex of the winter, an all out deluge slamming the state. Creeks and rivers that had been dry for years were flowing again feeding the ocean with silt and storm debris. surf spots that rarely break turned on and even marginal locales mutated into otherworldly. the following pages reveal some of this past winter ’s best days from photographers Glenn dubock, Brent Lieberman and tom Mudugno. sure there was that much needed rain to put at least a dent into the drought, but we always need surf.

backyard creeks that are usually a quaint little trickle, suddenly transformed into raging torrents of water, mud and debris. P h oto: t o M M o Du g no

ryan higginbotham is a young charger, who is not afraid to take off Deep and Steep. P h oto: b re nt l i e b e rMan

May/June2017 31

rain gauges that collect dust most of the year became the centerpiece of excited conversations, especially when they got filled up overnight! Pho t o : Mo Dugn o

aboVe, the mellow blur of another surf day in a relentless season of swells P h o t o : D u b o CK.CoM

“i’m bailing.” bare in mind this is an 11-foot board. Cactus Point firing. P h o t o : l i e be r Ma n


time to suit up and partake of the feast! P h o t o : D ubo CK.CoM

May/June2017 33

a rare moment of organization at goleta pier, on an otherwise turbulent day of storm surf. Photo: MoD ugn o

Shawn tracht on a frigid off shore morning. Photo: l ieb erM a n

a solitary surf check is the perfect way to cap off the day Photo: Dub oC K.C o M


there are many sneaker sets at Cactus Point; the water outside the break is very deep. P h oto: li e b e rM an

May/June2017 35

y oung Jade Morgan surfed these treacherous waves for two hours all by himself. P h o t o : l i e be r Ma n


a steady diet of waves increases the opportunities to experiment. Photo: Dubo C K . C o M

the w inter equation = weigh the potentials vs. the probabilities before paddling out. â&#x2122;Ś Photo: Dubo C K . C o M

May/June2017 37

Center Stage


there is nothing so potent as the strong jolt of a winter swell and the envious gaze of 40 eyeballs to elevate your surfing senses. P h oto: Du b oCK. C o M

May/June2017 39

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surviving texas Fi e l d N o t e s t o C o r p u s C h r i s t i


a $12 parking permit is probably cheaper than what he’s writing that ticket for.


w orDS + P ho to S by M i Ch ael Kew

asically have seen no police. the road seems to keep repeating itself. I keep seeing the same overpasses, the same beige space, cell phone towers, bushes, chaparral, alternating between low hills and little valleys. texas Peco trail. Living on subway, Mcdonald’s, beef jerky, Red Bull, and coffee. “Bubba shot the Jukebox,” “dixie on my Mind,” “santa Monica,” “Cowboy Beat,” “honky tonk heros,” “navajo Rug,” “Ring of Fire,” “Beer for Breakfast” on the radio: talk of combining Austin and san Antonio into one city. $3.67/gallon of regular unleaded gasoline. Cases of West nile Virus reported; 2012 has been the worst year yet.

Padre island national Seashore—sometimes surfable, always serene.

there is a radio station called KooK-FM (93.5 FM), a country music radio station licensed to Junction, texas. After segovia, the road descended from the plateau as a hay truck passed. “Just Good Ol’ Boys”

a b il l bo a r D :

9/14 Jackson landgraf & lane nobles Champion bull riders will be on hand Signing autographs at billy bob’s western wear and we have a Few other guest like bull Fighter larry “wildman” gandy - bertram, tx bull Fighter Kameron “backflip” warren - hillsboro, tx Funnyman Darryl titman - Seguin, tx Free bar-b-Q! From g & h bar-b-Q while Supplies last! 2nd annual buckin’ For boobs rodeo, 9/15 in robstown benefitting the american Cancer Society.

Rain up ahead, skies darkening, sunshine is gone. Major downpour at 4:43 p.m. hard to see, pulled over in a parking area, raining too hard, low visibility, dangerous. near Mathis, the roads were dry, so the storm is coming from the west. “Whiskey Wrote this song,” “You Ain’t Much Fun” heavy rainsqualls en route to Corpus, minor road flooding, drivers pulled over. I didn’t know Corpus was this industrial. Big Citgo refinery, car dealerships, hotels, small houses, dingy looking suburbs. I-358, 6:05 p.m. on the road’s right side are freshly plowed cotton fields. overpass bridges have paintings of swordfish and embossed shells and stars. Lots of traffic. strip malls, big box stores.

b uMP er S ti CKer on a P i CKu P : real men work in the oil field.

driving over the Park Road 22 connects Corpus Christi to north Padre Island. Beginning at sh 358 in Flour Bluff, PR 22 crosses the JFK Causeway to the island, ending at the entrance to Padre Island national seashore. several pickups were parked on the bay beach aside the road. Guys fishing. sheet glass, golden lateafternoon sunlight. Lots of palm trees. First morning on the coast—rainy. I drove from the motel, downing a tuna sandwich from subway and headed out to Bob hall Pier. Campground here. everything is wet; palms wind-torn. A few people on the beach. Puddles, gulls, surf was small and junky but rideable. Met with Wayne Maroney, who’d texted me the night before. We surfed Packery Channel. Waves May/June2017 53

Su mmertime gulf of Mex ico windswell ain’t pretty, but it’s warm and it’s fun.

were actually pretty fun—clean, some fast, lined-up lefts, shorter, punchier rights that were really crowded. Water was 82°F and brown; sky partly cloudy, sun not too much of a factor but still intense. I ended up south of the main pack, which was much less crowded. Fast and clean. Borrowed a thruster longboard from MdC surf shop. the beach was a line of trucks and cars, people drinking and partying, a saturday. drunk redhead in a pink bikini with her drunk friend as I was changing out of my wet trunks: “I’m watchin’!” then: “I’m a redhead and I’m tanner than you!” I told her I surfed in a wetsuit almost all year and didn’t much care for bronzing. Wayne, 32, grew up right on the channel, basically, in a condo. he was a boat captain and didn’t really get into surfing till his 20s. Born in Corpus. People have always said he doesn’t sound texan because he doesn’t have even a slight accent. he works at MdC but is getting his teaching degree in psychology. he told me how lucky I was about the 54

unusually cool weather in West texas. normally, cars overheat all the time; air temperatures can reach 115°F and higher. “You would’ve died out there, man!”

ranDoM Q u ote:

the thing about southern hospitality is you only know that they’re being nice to your face. serious fishing around here. Lots of people fishing from the jetty, fishing poles poking from truck beds, rod racks on the front bumpers. Felt great to get some saltwater on my skin after being possibly the farthest I’d ever been away from an ocean, which was probably back in new Mexico. the culture here seems humble, nonpompous, friendly, down-to-earth, laid back. they didn’t have the tsA comp today, but they should have. Book signing and film showing at MdC

redfish trophy, South Packery Channel Jetty.

the Port of Corpus Christi, which is the fifth-largest u.S. port and deepest inshore port on the gulf of Mexico, handles mostly oil and agricultural products.

have a cold l one Star beer between your left-wedge surf sessions.

May/June2017 55

Moisture from the remnants of h urricane Miriam streamed into South texas, causing heavy rainfall and flooding.

wayne Maroney: Corpus Christi surfer/ sailor/musician/whataburger aficionado.


g otta get it while you can.

on 9/15. Characters showed. scuttlebutt Bar after the event, had a few $2 pints of Lone star. had Whataburger around 1 a.m. with Wayne. First Whataburger restaurant was founded here in Corpus Christi, 1950. Wayne said Whataburgers in Corpus are the best, and that the employees are proud. Crashed on Wayne’s couch; woke with sore back. didn’t rise until late morning. Borrowed Wayne’s white subaru Forester to go surf Bob hall Pier. Water was much bluer and clearer than Packery’s. smelled fresh with a tropical zing; waves waist-high and fairly punchy on the inside. Padre Island national seashore. the road is ruler-straight and flat, nobody around, grasslands, ominous rain clouds to the west, mud flats, dunes. Parked at Malaquite Beach—birds, dune grass, desolation. the peace was surreal. Very tranquil. sandpipers. A few trucks were parked up the beach—families fishing from the sand, sitting in chairs. oil platforms offshore. Looked like it rained hard a little while ago, the sand pockmarked with countless little rain holes. thunderstorms and thunderheads offshore. I remembered Wayne telling me how the storms accelerate as they pass down from Mexico’s mountains and head north. Approached by a park ranger. nice guy. he thought I was lost (California license plates). I asked about the barrier and he said it was to protect four miles of beach from humans and their cars and dogs and fishing poles and noise. the park’s entrance station had perhaps 20 cameras pointing in all directions. Apparently the cameras aid authorities who recognize the stretch of coast as being vulnerable to exploitation by smugglers of drugs and undocumented immigrants. drove back to Corpus to go barbecue with the doyles. “hell Yeah I Like Beer,” “hicktown” september 17, Monday: hwy 77 north out of Corpus, rain, clouds, cool temps—stayed up till 3 a.m. hanging with dusty and tre, Marine Corps vets who’d just returned from Afghanistan. I left the house around 7:30. Lots of farmsupply stores, tractor dealerships, tool shops. scenery off the 77, near Victoria: acres of green that soothed my soul. Louisiana in my sights. ♦

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boarD TraCHTInG tracht, scooping off the bottom and projecting towards freedom P hot o: li e be r Ma n

JI ve su rfboarDs


wo rDS by S h a w n tra Ch t

esiding up the magical little path up from Rincon, ells, his bride, and his new daughter sit atop the Casitas Pass with 360-degree views of empty, old California. In a humble little abode, the ells family is committed to simplicity and the living dream of family first, thus leaving the material life somewhere down the line of caring. the Fun Zone surfboard model, like the ells family, is free and easy in its calm-yetdetermined path to jive smoothly and passionately against the grains of the common.

Sha Pe r ’S t a K e :

I wanted to make a board that when you saw it, you thought, “eh, that looks fun!” If you thought that, then a big part of just getting your head wrapped around the board was done, and you would likely have a good session on it. I have been shaping hulls, fishes, mid-lengths, your odd shortboard, and weird stuff for awhile, and wanted to make a super-approachable surfboard. not a shortboard, because most of the time that’s just not the right board. the mid-length is the underrepresented size, really unfamiliar to most people, and is the funnest thing in the water most days. I wanted a board that a beginner could jump on and have fun because of the length and volume, but also be the board 58

that an experienced surfer would gravitate towards when looking for those super special lines and sensations that mid-lengths bring, which can still be real performers in good surf. so, the Fun Zone was manifested. It combined myriad characteristics of the boards I had been working on over the years, and all the intentions detailed above. I usually make this board between 6’7” and 7’10”, 20” to 21” wide, and around 3” thick. the board is foiled in a way that you wouldn’t know it had that much volume. holding it in your arms it has an agile feel to it: a foiled thin nose and tail, with a rail that is pulled thin, somewhat down from the deck, but not pinched—an easy, flowing rocker on the flatter end of the spectrum, providing for maximum trim. she’s also got belly for transcendent stylesurfing, good feel and flow. I run different bottom contours out the tail depending on the surfer and tail shape. When shaped shorter, running side fins and a smaller center fin adds tons of drive and makes for a really zippy, rip-able board. When longer, running as a single fin, you access super-trimming sensations and high vibes. Always hand-shaped.

Su rFer’ S taKe:

Single Fin With experimentation in mind, I rode this board with eight

Jacob e lls holds his single fin creation. artistic gyrations P h o t o: J on ri e S

different single fins. I hit the jackpot once I took a chance with the huge 9” Greenough stage 6 hatchet-looking fin. Because the fin is so narrow at the base, you can fade your entry and easily scoop back into the pocket. Moreover, the hatchet square at the tip of the fin, combined with the flex in the middle, is like a boomerang paddle blasting the rider out of a cannon. during bottom turns and roundhouse wrap-arounds, the fin in conjunction with the thin rail line, mid-weight and length, and flip of tail rocker had the Fun Zone whipping around, up and down, like a 6’3” shortboard, yet with the glide and flow of a smooth 7’0” single-fin. each wave is a ride through the generations: old mid-weight single-fin surfing and new-school roundhouse cutbacks. I had multiple friends ride the board and the commonality of each ride was a giggly smile whether they were cresting a high-line runner without a single turn, or carving this board in the pocket, life slowed down, cares washed away, and a free, hippy, hue of light permeated their persona. Finless? With a long, straight rail line and thin rails, this board rides really well finless. It holds its line high in the wave face and also slides out when you want it to for controlled slides and 360 rotations. I used tiny Bonzer side bites for a little control. It’s crazy how much positive glide and scary sensations you can get on a wave going finless. the fact that the Fun Zone rides so well finless is a major bonus with this board! In summation, Jacob ells jives. he’s just mellow, inspired, and intent on living life pure. this board defines that lifestyle, and truly exerts that energy to the surfer on every wave. ♦

J a C o b e llS J Iv e s ur fb oa r D s sHaper: Jacob ells label: JiVe SurF loCaTIon: Santa barbara ~ up the hill from rincon boarD moDel: Fun zone sInGle fIn: i recommend the 9’0” george greenough Stage 6 (see the red fin in the photo above)

fInless: don’t be scared! take the fin off this board! TraCHT normal sHorTboarD: 5’10” x 18 x 2“ TraCHT orDereD THIs boarD: 7’2” x 21 1/2 x 3“ boarD’s speCIalTy: Fun. no stress, no trying. you’ll laugh with all your friends, show off some great single fin style surfing, spin 360s finless, and smile from ear to ear. boarD Is perfeCT for: novice to expert. the mid-length has enough length and width for a novice to learn on, but can challenge an expert on the good days to become a style-master or a finless slider. sHops CarryInG JIve surfboarDs: trim Surf Shop:Santa barbara, esteem Surf Shop: Pismo beach, Sawyer Supply:Santa Cruz, Mollusk:San Francisco sHaper’s ConTaCT: 805-680-8143 WebsITe: • InsTaGram: @jivesurf • surfer: @surfwanderer

May/June2017 59

Joel after Pipeline

Green room

P h oto: b roC elli ng e r

aloH a or eGo?


worDS b y De re K DoDDS

n all honesty, I live a very selfish lifestyle. Maybe it’s because I grew up an only child or perhaps it’s the way I am wired. In fact, most of us are wired to look after number one. enter the ego. Yep, there it is again, peeking out from the inner realm of my existence. the ego hides behind the “I” and “me” in those declarative thoughts and statements about my identity. It is what drives many of my actions and thoughts. I’d suggest it’s the same for you. According to sigmund Freud, the ego is the part of our personality that mediates the demands of reality. It is the thing calling most of the shots. It’s the voice inside your head that gets pissed when someone snakes you on a wave. essentially, it, the ego, drives the anger bus and controls any emotion that has to do with self-preservation or feelings of insecurity. the ego is in control. true dat (sic). What does the ego have to do with being, or not being, ecologically minded? I know that is what you are thinking. My


answer: pretty much everything. here is the deal, contemplating a worldview beyond our tiny existence is the first step towards learning to care about something outside our selfish sphere. I know, it’s a bit harsh, but there is just no beating around the bush with this one. Isn’t it me against the world? It sure feels like it sometimes, and that feeling usually leads to the selfish venting of greed and envy. My wave. My beach. My break. My city. My country. But is it really? If you take my wave, I might punch you in the face. If you insult my country, I might go to war with you. If you come to my local spot, I might call you names and chase you out of the water. It is difficult for the ego to reject this identification with “my belief” that these things are inherently mine and not yours. Yet we seem to shed greater responsibilities that require a bigger calling, a deeper resolution—a truly selfless expression. Whose planet is it? Whose ocean is it? Whose trash is it?

“not mine,” echoes the ego. I am not sure where this is all leading us but it’s not looking good. one result of the ego’s insensitivity is the island of trash in the pacific ocean. the environmental Protection Agency reports, “the primary source of marine debris is the improper waste disposal or management of trash and manufacturing products, including plastics (e.g., littering, illegal dumping).” nobody knows how large trash island is exactly, some estimate somewhere between the size of texas and as large as the entire united states. either way, it’s not a good thing and “we” are all responsible.



a folk eTymoloGy ClaIms THaT THe WorD aloHa DerIves from a CompounD of THe HaWaIIan WorDs alo meanInG “presenCe”, “fronT”, “faCe”, or “sHare”; anD Ha, meanInG “breaTH of lIfe” or “essenCe of lIfe”.

Although this all appears insurmountable, we need to stay positive and know that every day is a new day to give a damn and to silence our ego and embrace the aloha spirit inside all of us. Aloha. spirit. I always knew that aloha was a magical word, but not until researching its meaning did I come to understand its significance. Aloha in the hawaiian language means affection, peace, compassion, and mercy. the word aloha derives from the ProtoPolynesian root qarofa. It has cognates in other Polynesian languages, such as Samoan alofa and Māori aroha, also meaning “love”. Affection. Peace. Compassion. Love. A folk etymology claims that the word aloha derives from a compound of the hawaiian words alo meaning “presence”, “front”, “face”, or “share”; and ha, meaning “breath of life” or “essence of life”. Presence. Front. Face. share. the ego is shaking in its boots at the utterance of these words. Breath of life. essence of life. ok, now we have entered another realm—one in which we have affection for each other in and out of the water, we feel peace while surfing and compassion for ourselves and our fellow humans (and animals). We love to pick up trash when we see it. We don’t throw trash on the beach. We are present to this world and watch the swells of the ego arise with sensitivity. We face our responsibilities from the front (head on) and share everything we are and have. We breath in life. We are the essence of life, and we understand that everything is also made of this essence. We care. Aloha or ego. Which do you choose? ♦ Derek is founder of Wave Tribe and a local surfer. He can be found spreading kindness and taking his friends to waves in and around Ventura. Write him at


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Comen sense

the Central California Coast, no one out, blown out and closing out. t he columnist’s go to. P ho t o: ChuCK gr a haM

role moDels


w orDS by Cra i g CoM e n

t’s amazing how time passes and changes. Am I really going to turn 56 in 12 days? Looking back I can now see a little more clearly at the events that shaped my life, the influences along the way, the so called role models and ones I looked up to. there were different segments, some etched in time, some geographical, but each one stands out as a benchmark, an energy burst of formation. Growing up at Point dume was a perfect scenario, friends and family around, a trail directly to a perfectly lined up wave. Gentle swells, mild weather, and not a care in the world. My brother and father groomed me in the line-up, my friends drafting in the wake of my progression, and sometimes the other way around. Guys like Kirby Kotler, Billy Barker, of similar age, but seemingly older and more mature in many regards including wave riding. I looked up to them, watched and studied, as they must have been doing with the older generations, such names as Jojo Perrin, the Ballard brothers, Bigelows, daniels, and newmans. Who knows who these guys were emulating, but I am sure now that they were surfing other breaks in addition to “the Point”—checking and refining their craft and style in the southern California of the early 70s. My age held me to the select rides at the Point, and in doing so, kept my influences to a minimum. next stop the Central California Coast: Cambria and Cayucos, cold, rugged line-ups, hard to reach for a young teenager. All my peers washed away so to speak, all my input on hold as I had to adapt to a new environment and way of life. It was no longer the surf/skate culture below Point Conception, rather a lonely type of introverted silence. It was my skateboard, my dogs and a few new friends who knew nothing of the ocean or surfing. A 3-year void of the very thing that I had grown up with, what every cell of my being knew warmly. that is until my sophomore year in high school, when I met


the Parmenter brothers. now I had two regular footers to spur me along, motivate me to be better, stronger, more creative and faster. I discovered surf magazines, and soon my new heroes were the new world champions—the Aussies and south Africans that were turning heads and changing the way waves were ridden, the young afro-wearing hawaiians who were radical, different and flowing all in one. this was my new definition of culture, surf and lifestyle—the way I wanted to grow up and be. And sure enough when you focus on something so fiercely, you become it. All along the way my parents also played a part in my way of living. I loved reading, and writing, music and plays and films. It may not have shown much, but their influence was key in my growth—at least potentially—and still is, I hope. other factors were music of the times, from tull and Zeppelin, to honk and Pablo Cruise. Any song or tune that would bring forth a desire to surf a wave harder, rip more turns, or lift my spirit to become better than I was. the soundtracks to surf films, the surf stars themselves, names like tom Carroll, occy and Curren, Wayne Lynch and Jim Banks—many names, many masters so to speak, and generations from which to draw. As I moved to southern California and chased a professional career in the surf and surfing industry, my mentors became the likes of wetsuit company owners like Wayne Brown, surfboard shapers like Rusty, and clothing marketing experts like the tomsons and Instinct’s Lista sagnelli. the lists go on, just like time, and now I find myself having to look up to even more elders, as I become one. I need inspiration from them to age gracefully and become the model that others will need in their times of youth. of course, I still get excited to see the modern day acrobatics of the top athletes in any sport, but especially the one I have followed since birth. May the ride continue, may we all find the path we seek and most desire. ♦

P h oto: CanStoCK

Four Keys A to a Successful Diet for Surfers

balanced diet is essential for health and for fueling your surfing performance. surfing is an athletic endeavor and is very demanding on the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s energy stores. If you regularly fuel with healthy foods, your body will respond by keeping your energy high for surfing and healing quickly from injuries. A solid nutrition plan also helps prevent injuries and will help you restore the energy you expended while surfing.

Follow th e 8 0 / 2 0 ru le:

the 80/20 Rule is simply to make 80% of your food intake from healthy foods like fruits, vegetables, whole grains/high fiber starches, healthy fats, and lean proteins. Limit foods high in refined sugars, unhealthy fats (fried foods), and processed foods to 20% of your dietary intake. Following is a further explanation of what foods fall in each category.

th e 8 0 %:

worDS by: Carrie FlaCK, MS, rD n

lean protein: organic chicken & turkey, wild caught fish, free-range eggs, beans, lentils High-fiber starches: brown rice, quinoa, sweet potatoes, whole grains (sprouted), oatmeal, winter squashes May/June2017 63

Cayden edman paddling out to dash into the sunrise on a beautiful winter morning. P h o t o : D a ViD P u’ u

Pho t o : C a n S t o C K

Healthy fats: olive oil, coconut oil, avocado, raw/sprouted nuts & seeds, chia seeds, hemp seeds Fruits: acai, blue berries, cherries, blackberries, strawberries, dragon fruit, goji berries, pineapple, papaya, mango Vegetables: spinach, kale, collard greens, cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts), carrots, cucumber, celery, tomatoes, garlic, onions

th e 2 0 %:

Refined white cane sugar, high fructose corn syrup, and foods with more 20g/serving of added sugars unhealthy fats: refined vegetable oils: canola, safflower, sunflower, etc; trans fats (“hydrogenated fats or oil” on food label ingredients list) refined white starches: white breads/pastries, sugary breakfast 64

P h o t o : C an St oCK

cereals, doughnuts, desserts, candy, etc. High-fat and/or processed meats: red meat, pepperoni, sausage, hot dogs, deli meats Following this method of eating reduces inflammation that is created by exercise and is inherent to the daily functioning of our bodies. this will ensure that your body is at its peak health, energy and performance at all times. You will likely get sick less frequently and have an overall feeling of revitalization. If peak performance and health is your top priority, I recommend aiming for a dietary intake of 90% healthy foods and 10% from other foods.

Cho o Se you C a n


w h en

Choosing organic foods is one way to ensure you are getting the most nutrition out of your diet. Meats, dairy, leafy green vegetables, and fruits without peels are the best foods to spend the extra money and purchase organic. Look for “freerange”, “usdA certified organic”, and “grass-fed”, on food labels, which indicates a higher quality, more nutritious product. It may not always be convenient or cheap to purchase organic foods, but the nutrient payout is worth it.

it’s all about the glide and never looking back. P h oto: w i lli aM t o Ve r

May/June2017 65

e a t a “ S u Pe r Fo o D ” eVer y D a y

the term “superfood” has been used by the media and marketing to sell many over-priced exotic foods, but there is merit to including these foods as a part of balanced diet. the definition of a superfood is a food that has been shown to contain significant amounts of a nutrient that denotes a health benefit, most often antiinflammatory. examples include acai, kale, dark chocolate, hemp seeds, coconut oil, goji berries, chlorella, golden berries, and raw honey. Adding a superfood to your daily intake is a great strategy to boost nutrient density of your diet and improve recovery.

Ma Ke a Pl a n & S t i C K to it

When it comes to executing a healthy diet, a little forethought and planning goes a long way to accomplishing that goal. It is difficult to follow through with making healthier food choices if that food is not readily available. Meal planning and preparing meals ahead of time is

unidentified throwing his fins on a rainy day at the Queen. P h o t o : l u Ke wi lli a M S


the key to making changes to your diet and making those changes long-term. taking the time to create a meal plan for the week, grocery shopping to that plan, and having those healthy foods available will help ensure you stick to a healthy diet. I recommend sitting down once a week, gathering recipes and writing out a meal plan. Meal preparation can be done once or twice per week depending on how much variety you prefer. Mealboard is a great smartphone application that allows you to meal plan, import recipes from the web, keep track of what is in your pantry, and generate a grocery list from your meal plan. happy & healthy surfing! For custom nutrition plans and more healthy tips, follow Carrie on Instagram at @swellnutrition, or book a session at ♦

sHapers bay pyZel surfboarDs THe GHosT

sHapeD by Jon pyZel 5’10” x 19” x 2.44 V 27 wave type - beach break, reefs and points. wave size - Chest high to well overhead. the ghost is designed for riding hollow, more powerful types of waves, and is great for reef breaks, and pulling into draining dumpy beaches. it also excels in long, drawn-out point waves. its refined outline has the wide point pushed a bit forward of center, keeping the nose area down to help fit into a tighter curve. the ghost is a great travel board, and could be considered a one board quiver for any surf trip with good, hollow waves on the menu.

beach House

1 0 s ta te s t., s a nta b a r b a r a 8 0 5 -9 6 3 -1 2 8 1

CHannel IslanDs surfboarDs TWIn fIn

sHapeD by brITT merrICk 5 ’ 7 ” x 1 9 1 / 4 ” x 2 3 / 8 ” 2 7 .6l the twin Fin has a retro 70’s feel, with updated performance qualities. Comes with two Ci Futures fins, perfectly tuned for the design, and an all-new Ci trailer that we hand shaped and foiled at the factory just for this board. ride the twin Fin 2” to 4” shorter than you are tall; 1/2” to 1” wider, and 1/8” to 1/4” thicker than your normal shortboard

C h a n n e l I s l a n d s su r f b o a r d s 36 a n a c a p a st . (sa n t a b a r b r a )

May/June2017 67

norTHern exposure

a ustin n eumann is sure to have plenty of hometown support in the inaugural Pismo beach open. w ith a rail game like this he’s bound to turn a few heads as well. P ho t o: J o n re i S

p I smo b ea CH open


worDS by: Da n i e l h a Ml i n

or those old enough to remember the 80’s, the Bud tour was a domestic contest series that provided a platform and starting point for surfers with dreams of making it to the international tour. the tour held a number of contests all over California that would draw some of the best talent in the country. It even had a stop in Pismo Beach. After the Bud tour went away there were a few attempts to revive a domestic professional tour with little success. As a result, most aspiring California pros have to hit the road on a relentless travel schedule to lower-level events in pursuit of points to build a high-enough seed to someday enter the events that offer enough points for qualification. It’s no easy task, especially when you add travel costs to the equation—so a lot of talented Californian’s never even give it a shot. Pismo Beach’s Andy McKay used to do a bit of competing himself. When his nephew Austin neumann embarked on the Qs last year, Andy went with him to a number of events as coach and support staff. Andy quickly realized the uphill battle that Californians trying to qualify for the tour face—especially those lacking major sponsors. so he decided he would try to do something about it. he is working on bringing the World surf League to the Central Coast by creating the Pismo Beach open. his goal is to help facilitate a way for California hopefuls to make it to the Championship tour, or at least provide a stepping-stone to do so. not since the Bud tour has the Central Coast hosted an event sanctioned by the governing body of professional surfing. It will provide a great opportunity for Californians on the Qs 68

looking to gain points as well as provide them with some potential exposure. Andy seems like a natural fit to take on such an endeavor. he owns a business in downtown Pismo (surfside donuts) and is a former competitor himself. he knows what a successful event held in Pismo Beach could mean for California’s Qs warriors, as well as for the city of Pismo Beach. But most of all, Andy is just a surfing fan. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen him running down the street in his wetsuit, board under arm on his way to go surfing. If you happen to stop by surfside donuts while a WsL contest is live, there is a good chance it will be streaming on the shop tV. Andy says, “I just love surfing, and I’d love to see more Californians on tour. I always cheer for Californians—so if I can help make that happen that would be great.” the Pismo Beach open will be held november 17-19, 2017 at the Pismo Beach Pier. It will be a World surf League Qualifying series 1000 event and will be broadcast live via webcast. Andy is still looking for help with sponsorship, so if you or your business is interested in partnering to make the Pismo Beach open a success, go to to learn more. ♦

movIe reViewS Ace and the Desert Dog

yea r on e –

Co nne r Co ffIn’ s f I rsT le ap InT o THe bIG l eaG u es r e Vi e w by gl e n n Du bo CK

b a n ff mo unTaIn f I lm fesTI val reView by ChuCK g rahaM

It only takes a couple of seconds to be thoroughly captivated by the Banff Mountain Film Festival World tour. It begins with the same awesome theme song and clips from all the movies and the amazing athletes and expeditions that took place over the past year. Last February 28 and March 1 was the 26th year the film festival has graced santa Barbara, and uCsB Arts & Lectures as always does an excellent job of presenting the diversity of films to sold out audiences at the Arlington theatre. some of my favorite films included Ace and the Desert Dog, about Ace Kvale the long-time adventure photographer taking his dog, Genghis Khan, on a 60-day backpacking trek in utah’s epic canyon country on Kvale’s 60th birthday. Another enthralling flick was Four Mums in a Boat. It’s about four middle-aged working moms from the untied Kingdom rowing their race boat in the talisker Whiskey Atlantic Challenge. And I was blown away by Danny MacAskill’s Wee Day Out. there are a lot of amazing athletes out there, but I couldn’t believe what this guy was pulling off on his mountain bike without appearing to exude much effort—all of it within the breathtaking scottish countryside. For more information visit and

Right out of the gate, I have to admit that I have always been impressed with the way the whole Coffin family handles themselves in and out of the water. Watching the brothers Conner and Parker grow up from bumbling little groms to ripping young men has been a pleasure and one of the key privileges of living on the Central Coast. even though this film is primarily about Conner ’s insights and observations on his rookie season at the highest level of professional surfing, he makes it clear that it is a family journey, and that anyone he comes into contact with becomes a part of his extended family. By the time the story is winding down, thanks in large part to the skillful captures and editing of his uncle Jason Baffa plus the longstanding relationship with superb videographer Ryan Perry, you feel like a part of this ever-growing tribe. Conner mentions some santa Barbara trailblazers like former neighbor and freethinker George Greenough and master shaper Al Merrick. Riding Al’s progressive shapes and seeking out the power center of each wave like George are two things that have served young Conner well. he also talks about the early influence of tom Curren–it’s evident throughout the short film that they both share a love for a firm back foot on the bottom turn, a knife-blade sharp cut back off the top and a keen understanding of not forcing your style on the wave at hand. As we follow Conner through the wins and losses, the triumphs and even one nagging out-of-character mental error in this opening year campaign, a broader picture emerges of a young man on the very edge of a destiny that he has designed. ♦ P h oto: ry an tay lor

May/June2017 69


SURF CAMPS Beginning to Intermediate

TRAVEL CAMPS Intermediate to Elite

Team Rider Tyler Chiarappa

Monday - Friday 9am - 3pm Ages 4-17, Santa Claus Lane

Monday - Friday 9am - 3pm Ages 8-16 Surfing the counties best waves, Expert Coaching, Video Analysis



V e n tu ra



S a n ta

n tu S u rf a d v e b a rb a ra

2017 SurF CaMPS re s

by M e ga n walD r eP

i t ’ S t i M e F or F un i n the Su n. Sc ho o l’ s o u t fo r su mmer and al l that ex t ra t ime mea ns figur i ng out what to do w it h t he k ids. Don’t wor r y . we’ve go t yo u c o v ered. Sur f camps ar e c a lling a nd w e’ v e r ound ed up the b est o f t he b est fo r y our l i ttl e s ur fer or su rfer-in-t ra ining. and wi th a r ange of t ea c hing t ec hniq u es and good ti mes , yo u ma y w a nt t o sign up for them al l . w e get it . w e w a nt to hop on boar d , t o o . So t ell t he k id s to put d own the iP a d, gra b a su it , and s l ap on s ome su nsc reen. i t s t ime for fun i n the s un.



tu re s Su rf ha pp en s

Ph ot o: br an Do n ar oy an

o rn e M a ry o sb

May/June2017 71

Santa barbara SurF aDVentureS leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara 805-963-1281 • @santabarbarasurfadventures Just North of the Santa Barbara Harbor. Camp sign-ups through Beach House Surf N’ Wear at 10 State St. Santa Barbara

D iD y o u a tte n D S ur F C aM P a S a K i D ?

I originally learned how to surf from my dad and continued to improve in the summers when I attended this same camp at Leadbetter beach.

wh a t’S a tyP i C a l Da y a t C aM P l i K e?

A typical day at camp starts with a run and stretch before hitting the water for our morning surf session. After having lunch from shoreline Cafe we usually play a beach game before heading back out in the water to surf and do other water activities. With our downtime, waiting for appropriate tides or wave conditions, we have a number of beach and water activities that are all coupled with marine safety and education.

wh a t g o a l Do y o u h o P e t o r ea C h ?

the goal for our camp every year is to spread marine safety and education through the sport of surfing. safety, fun and learning are our priorities.

a re the r e a n y Pr er eQ ui S i t eS ?

Participants of the camp are expected to have basic swimming


skills and a willingness to play in the ocean. surfboards, wetsuits, sunscreen, a camp t-shirt and lunch are all included in a day at camp. Campers only need to bring the basic beach essentials: bathing suit, towel, something warm to wear, and maybe a snack.

h ow Do y ou Di FFer FroM oth er SurF Ca M PS?

santa Barbara surf Adventures is different from other camps in that we have a schedule everyday which will vary based on conditions, but is always filled with organized surfing sessions and other beach and water activities with constant supervision from our group of professional instructors, and educators. there are periods of free time, however the majority of the day our campers are interacting in structured group activities with specific learning outcomes based around surfing and our ocean. We are also located right next to downtown santa Barbara and the harbor at the best beginner surfing spot in the santa Barbara area.

w h at’ S y ou r Ca MP Motto?

exceeding expectations while building a lasting relationship with the ocean environment.

w h en i S th e D eaD li ne to regi S ter?

Registration is always open, based on availability. We can even accommodate morning of sign-ups at the beach, provided camp is not full for the day already. We recommend signing up as soon as possible, especially for busy weeks in the middle of the summer, as they do usually fill up. Campers are welcome to come for just the day, or the entire week. We recommend the whole week as the camp is set up for each day of the week’s learning topics and activities to build off the previous day.

SurF haPPenS SurF CaMP

run by Santa barbara’S PreMier SurF SChool SinCe 2000 805-966-3613 • @surfhappens Summer Surf Camps are located on the southern shores of Santa Claus Lane. Office 13 East Haley, Santa Barbara

wh a t’S yo u r l e a r n - t o - Sur F S t o r y ?

Raised on a boat in the santa Barbara harbor, I learned the fundamentals largely on my own through trial and error and watching a ton of videos. My step dad at the time was a surfer and then a family friend, father figure, and former world number two steve Bigler introduced me to the lifestyle, complete with getting fit, meeting girls, traveling, and took me to Rincon for the first time. I attended davey smith’s surf Academy when I was 13 and wanted to learn how to do airs like him. I was further introduced to advanced coaching by Mike Lamm who gave me tips that helped me to excel in contests and technique.

wa l K u S thr o u gh a D a y a t y o ur C aM P.

As kids arrive in the morning, we play dodge ball or use on land balance trainers to warm up. We then take a half mile jog followed by sunscreen application and hydration, beach games, and surfing specific warm ups, and the daily surf lesson. All students are categorized into skill level, experience, and goals. each level is color coded with evolutionary growth like a martial art. our unique method really helps those that wish to improve in relatively short times. We hit the water and surf from 10-noon. Lunch time follows with surf stories, and then we hit the line up again.

wh a t g o a l w oul D y o u l i K e t o r ea C h ?

our goal is to share as much fun and stoke with our students as humanly possible and to keep evolving the camp each year. We

have an amazing team of instructors who are trained in surfing specific first aid and our patented methodology. We are partnered with hurley for wetsuits and apparel so all students are geared up and warm with new suits each season. Channel Islands surfboards takes care of us with amazing Grom designed demo boards and this summer they are launching soft boards and hybrids (part soft, part hard) of some of their top models so that kids have the best equipment from their first steps until they reach the elite level.

Do Su rFerS neeD to bri ng any thing ?

All students must be able to smile. For those that are nervous, we ask that they trust us until they learn to trust themselves in the water.

w h at are a Few S P eCi al Q u ali ti eS oF your Ca M P?

our teaching structure, staff, and experience as well as track record of producing athletes from the recreational to world class. We have eighteen years in the game and the majority of our instructors went through the camp or contests that we run in their youth and take great pride in sharing all that they know. We coach beginning to elite through our day, travel camps, and continue to mentor and guide the next generation towards their dreams.

iF your SurF CaMP haD a Motto, what woulD it be?

step into a smile and you can make your dreams real. Passion and commitment will allow you to achieve any dream you may conceive.

any SP eCi al regi Strati on DateS t o not e ?

early bird registration is through May 15. space allowing, students may register all summer long. Camps are generally filled to capacity with a waiting list so early registration is encouraged to guarantee students are enrolled the week(s) of their choice.

P h otoS : b ranD on aroy an

May/June2017 73

Mary oSborne SurF CaMP 805-973-SaND D iD y o u l e a r n to Sur F a t C a MP ?

I didn’t go to surf camp to learn to surf due to the fact I had three amazing older brothers that all surfed. however, my first job was with the Paskowitz Family surf Camp in san Clemente at age 15. I was a counselor and instructor for several years with the Paskowitz family. I learned a tremendous amount about surfing and business. I was so lucky to have worked for that fabulous family.

D e SC r ib e a w e e K a t M. o . S ur F C a M P .

My kids’ daily camp runs Monday to Friday, 9-12pm everyday. We start with introductions, beach and safety warm ups, then the rest is out in the water. Friday is always the most fun for kids because we have a giant pizza party on the beach with games.

wh a t’S yo u r Ma i n g o a l Fo r C aMP ?

Yes, every summer my goal is to make sure each child is safe and falls in love with surfing. My main concern is safety. I don’t want anyone ever getting hurt so I staff my camps extremely thick.

wh a t D o C a M Per S n eeD t o b r i n g?

the surfers don’t have to bring anything. each parent will fill


out an information form and disclose any medical issues or concerns my staff should know. once we have that, just show on up, and have the best time ever. We provide all equipment and life vests for our tiny campers.

w h at MaKeS y ou r Ca MP S tanD out ?

I run my camp 9-12pm daily which allows for each student to learn the entire day in the water. I also staff my camp according to age levels, abilities, disabilities, and swell size. every student is different and if someone needs one on one attention they always get it. M.o. surf Camps also run overnight teen “surfari” camps for girls ages 12-15 years old. these surfari weeks are a 4-5 night program with surf, education, celebrity speakers and local adventures. the week is really designed for young girls to build self confidence, awareness and make life long friendships.

Do y ou h aVe a M otto?

My motto is: Live, Love, Be Inspired

Do y ou oFFer Day -oF regi Strati on?

We love when surfers sign up at the beginning of the year in May-June so we can staff our weeks appropriately. however, we understand parents and life gets busy so we accommodate day of sign ups, too.

oCean aDVentureS by a-FraMe SurF ShoP

are th ere any P rereQ u i Si teS or D o CaM Pe rS ne e D to bri ng any th i ng?

3785 Santa Claus lane 805-684-8803 • @oceanadventures_camp

no prerequisites required. no equipment required. We recommend campers bring a change of clothes, a towel, and a water bottle or cup for water.

ho w D i D yo u l e a r n t o Sur F ?

w h y Ch ooSe y ou r Ca MP ?

My older brother taught me how to surf around age 10.

D e SC r ib e a Da y a t C aM P .

our camp is all about fun! We don’t just surf. We also include hot lunches from our neighbors here on santa Claus Lane.

surfing, boogie boarding, kayaking and stand up Paddling with some dodgeball and lunch from Padaro beach grill and Borello’s pizza!

i F y ou r Su rF CaMP h aD a Motto, what woulD it be?

D o yo u ha Ve a C a MP g o a l ?

Do y ou h aVe a regi S trati on DeaDline ?

only goals are for everyone to have fun and to advance campers ocean activity skills.

surf, Paddle, Play – It’s all about having Fun!

no deadline. early registration discount ends May 15th. drop in’s welcome! May/June2017 75

Ventura MaKoS SurF CaMP 149 West Center Street Ventura 805-426-0765 • @venturamakossurfcamp ho w D o e S yo u r S ur F S t o r y b egi n ?

I learned to surf at junior lifeguards watching the other kids. Back then the BZ was a thicker stronger modern wave storm, a giant boogie board. since boogie boarding was my thing it came pretty naturally.

exP lain a D a y at Ven t ur a Ma K o S S ur F C aMP .

A typical day at camp is a slow easy start with check in, wetsuits on, colored jerseys for added safety, and tons of fun. Kids will have a chance to surf one on one with the instructors, biggie board, and try the new daily skill on their own. Making new friends and playing in a natural environment away from electronics is a huge part of it. We have multiple designated times for water and sunscreen breaks, and lunch is always followed by a beach game.

wh a t’S yo u r C a MP g o a l ?

our goal each year is to hit our capacity of course, and we do that by always improving the programs safety procedures and 76

education each year. It is to have the most positive well trained staff on the beach.

any th i ng th e Ki DS neeD to K now be For e hanD?

Prerequisites like knowing how to swim and being comfortable in the water are a must. All campers should come with a lunch, water, sunscreen, towel, a sweatshirt for the breezy days, a beach bag to put everything in, and a good attitude.

h ow DoeS V MSC S tanD ou t F roM ot he r S?

the big difference I have heard from campers, and why they like coming to Makos, is that we do more than take you surfing or watch you surf, we are constantly coaching, encouraging, and teaching new techniques to get the surfer to their next level.

w h at’ S y ou r M otto?

our motto is surf, share, and be kind. our camps are about learning personal confidence and ocean safety through the art of surfing. there are plenty of waves for everyone if we share and are kind.

w h en Sh ou lD CaMP erS Si gn u P?

same day drop-offs are prohibited, but you can sign-up, if room allows, 24 hours in advance. ♦

Share the Stoke

Weekly Summer Camps at Santa Claus Beach Ocean & Beach Activities including Surfing, Paddle Boarding, Kayaking, Volleyball & Beach Games Lunch provided by Padaro Beach Grill CPR & First Aid Certified

Call to Register (805) 684-8803

LESSONS & RENTALS Surf / Stand Up Paddle Clothes • Swimwear Accessories • Sunglasses Sandals • Wetsuits New & Used Surfboards

(805) 312-0713

3785 Santa Claus Lane (805) 684-8803 May/June2017 77

CasCaDIan rHyTHms

it’s it at it r eef

IT reef


worDS + Ph ot o by M i Ch a e l K e w

von Chouinard told me about it. We were yakking about travel, eating sashimi, drinking hinano on a yacht in the tuamotus. Founder of Patagonia, Inc., Chouinard saw much of the tropics—surfing, sailing, exploring, bonefishing— but he hadn’t surfed the wave we discussed. “somewhere I’ve always wanted to see,” he said. “untouched nature, lots of reef passes, no surfers, good surf. All you need is a local fisherman to take you out.” “Why haven’t you been there?” “Probably because there aren’t any bonefish.” Chuck Corbett of tabuaeran, to where Chouinard once sailed, later confirmed the claim to me through email. A longtime merchantman and an expatriated American on his own atoll of idyll, Corbett had seen and surfed more Pacific obscurity than anyone. “Would you like an insiders tip?” he wrote. “Buy a small Japanese truck for around a grand or less, then buy a 10-foot aluminum boat with a 15-horsepower outboard. ship from san Francisco. You will find epic, world-class surf—up to giant sizes, too. When you’re finished, you can sell the car and boat. nobody knows the island sits with tahiti in waves because the surf is a minimum of a few miles out, on a barrier reef.” I was on-island at 3 a.m. after four flights, with two bags, two surfboards, and no expectations, not even for sun. the terminal was a dim concrete room with flaky paint and a foul restroom, a small sign glued above the sink: Please keep our airport environment clean and fit to work in, especially our restrooms. At the curb outside was an old brown sedan, an orange light 78

on its roof, which made me think it was a taxi. It was, though its driver was asleep—as was the pregnant middle-aged woman in the back seat. Both of their jaws bulged with betel nut, a natural sedative enjoyed with great vigor on the equator. I tapped on the driver ’s window, startling him. “taxi?” I grinned, showing him some cash. the driver stared blankly through the windshield. “Where you going?” “Palm hotel.” “Palm hotel? okay. We go Palm Motel.” he started the car. About a mile on, he pulled over in front of a small store festooned with cheery but faded beer posters and advertisements for the latest food shipment from hawai’i (New York Steak just in! and Now Fresh California Iceberg Lettuce!). the driver eyed me in his rearview mirror, his face sweaty and fretful, like he was going to faint. “sir, I stop here.” “do you need to buy something? the store looks closed.” “no. But I not drive you to hotel.” he put a finger on his cheek. “Very tired.” “so you’re dropping me here?” “Yes. I call new taxi.” We sat in the car and waited. the road was dark. nothing moved. the air was thick and muggy. I was grimy. the driver lowered his head, tilted the seat back, and dozed off. Rain began to fall. I closed my eyes, listened to the jungle crickets, and thought: Two days ago I was in a down parka and driving 80 mph on a Los Angeles freeway. then came bizarre color visions of a rodeo I’d never seen, cow-


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a l on GT Ime merC Ha n T m a n an D a n ex pa TrIaTeD a m e rIC a n on HIs o Wn a To l l o f IDy ll, Co rbeTT H a D seen a n D surf eD m o r e pa CIfIC o bsCurITy T H a n a n yo n e.

the air smelled of plumeria and moss, rain and ripe fruit. the silence was deep. eventually a clerk led me along a ferny path to my room—actually an old wooden bungalow, full of insects and geckos—where I showered and slept till noon the next day, awakened by an errant rooster and croaking toads. And, somewhere in the distance—Chouinard’s “it.” ♦

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May/June2017 79

DroppInG In on

Doug y artz lays out the days shaping lesson for student ryan hale of l ompoc.

f IrsT Cu Ts –

T eaC HI nG T He arT o f surfbo arD s Hap In G


worDS + Ph ot oS by g l e n n DuboCK

ost surfers are content to ride waves with whatever watercraft is under their feet. they may have a certain brand loyalty, preference to length, choice of fin set-up or color scheme, but beyond that, whatever is looking good off the rack with the available funds at the time of purchase is going to be the ride they glide. A small percentage will meet with a shaper, sometimes one they have had an ongoing relationship with, and continue their dialogue about design and desires as one’s abilities hopefully progress to higher levels. there exists another subset amongst our species – the one’s that possess unbounded curiosity towards all things related to foam, fiberglass and resin. Working in rooms with glowing beams of florescent tubes that underlight the crude blanks they will transform into nautical crafts of speed and grace, they


endlessly toil, mowing foam until they are ultimately satisfied that the canvas of aquatic art before them is worthy of their signature somewhere next to the stringer. these artisans shall forever be known as Custom surfboard shapers – and with the onslaught of computer shaping machines and overseas production factories – they are a dying breed. Ray Lucke is a large and friendly man, with massive hands that were built for manual labor. he looms over a surfboard blank like Paul Bunyon over a redwood stump and yet he seems to float around the shaping bay as he dispenses pearls of wisdom from his decades in the industry. “I shaped my first board when I was 14 years old in my own garage with a good friend. It looked like a piece of crap but it rode well. I was stoked!”

ray lucke casts a watchful eye over his shaping class student g rant whitman as he makes his first marks on foam.

I went to see Lucke at his combo surf shop/surfboard factory adjacent to the lettuce fields of Camarillo. he had invited me to sit in on a shaping lesson he was giving to a young man from the area. When asked why he was willing to share this treasure trove of knowledge Lucke replied, “I realized that the surfboard industry had been fading off people wanting to learn how to make surfboards. the art of surfboard making was dying. I wanted to get everybody involved.” Lucke has passed his passion onto about 70 people, ranging in age from 13 to 60 years old, both men and women. Lessons run about 2.5 hours each with a total of about 8 hours. Within 30 minutes of templating the board, they are cutting it out on their own. over at surf Country in Goleta, a homegrown product of the area is passing on his considerable skills in a shaping room just off the showroom floor. doug Yartz was born and raised just a few blocks away and rode his first waves just down the street at Goleta Beach. “once I started surfing, I wanted to know everything about it. I started fixing boards in my garage for my neighbors. I met dan Wozniak at a garage sale and I bought my first true longboard from

him. he later taught me how to shape. the first board I shaped was a short board for a childhood friend.” Watching Yartz teach a student that came in from Lompoc, I could see that he was getting just about as much from the lesson as the pupil was. With over 100 lessons under his sanding belt, Yartz has fined tuned his approach to cater to the inherent tool knowledge of each participant. “Pulling the curtain back on how boards are made is exciting for surfers; most people feel like it is a secret so sharing how it is done is super fun.” Lucke and Yartz both share a gift for making people feel comfortable with tools, techniques and even philosophies that may be quite foreign to them. Yartz recalled one student in particular. “I had a lawyer once that didn’t know how to use a single tool; it was challenging and scary for me. he was so stoked after the first lesson and completed board that he came back and shaped two more with me.” With fine mentors like Lucke and Yartz passing on the torch of surfboard crafting, perhaps our tribe will not lose it’s artful history. ♦ May/June2017 81

Final FraMe

Dropping in and taking off; surfing and flying are both such a sublime mix of heightened physical and mental concentration that, when done well, appear to be effortless. P h oto: Du b oCK. C o M



SPECIAL THANKS TO John Welch, Vince Felix, and Carla Rowland for extra help DJ Matt Nadsidy at Clay Wagner for Art Work and Awards Andy Malmin for web designs

Finalist Evan Trauntvien Photo: William Stone


DEEP - May 2017  

Swimsuit Issue

DEEP - May 2017  

Swimsuit Issue