STORIES FROM THE EAST CAPE
UNLOCK THE WONDERS OF THE EAST CAPE
with
FOUR SEASONS RESORT & RESIDENCES LOS CABOS AT COSTA PALMAS
Plan your next stay at fourseasons.com/loscabos
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EAST CAPE ADVENTURES
A yacht charter to Espíritu Santo on the Sea of Cortez anchors a host of thrilling Aventura excursions exploring the best of Baja California Sur. BY JACKIE CARADONIO
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FEATURES
Contents PREMIERE ISSUE | 2022 | VOLUME 1
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THE BOUNTY OF BAJA
From rainbow carrots to winter squash, local ingredients that grace Costa Palmas’ menus are the product of a rich agricultural tradition.
HORSE AND JOCKEY: TOM BOUYER; OPPOSITE: JACKIE CARADONIO
BY SHIVANI VORA
48 ROOTED IN THE RACES
On the rural tracks of Baja California Sur, the patriarch of a local stable helps keep Mexico’s horse-racing heritage alive and kicking. BY CECILIA ESCRIBANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM BOUYER
DEPARTMENTS
Ricardo Medina
SENIOR DIRECTOR OF MARKETING
Costa Palmas Magazine Lori Bryan
MANAGING EDITOR
Rufus Agbede
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Hunter King
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Dora Dalton
COPY EDITOR
Contents
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5 Founder’s Letter 6 Stories from the East Cape
P U BLI S H E D BY
9 East Cape Intel 4 | 5
CONTR IBUTORS
Samantha Brooks, Jackie Caradonio, Cecilia Escribano, Bruce Morser, Celeste Moure, Maria Shollenbarger, Shivani Vora, Michael Williams
A Mozza made for Baja, Aman’s latest oasis, a quartet of family fun, and much more.
Bruce Wallin
56 Costa Palmas Home
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Private docks link the striking new Four Seasons Marina Villas at Costa Palmas directly to the Sea of Cortez.
CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER
bruce.wallin@candrpr.com candrpr.com
BY SAMANTHA BROOKS
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES BY MITTERA GROUP
68 Club Life
Highlights from La Carrera Invitational Golf Tournament and more.
72 esCAPE
ON THE COVER
Soaking up the atmosphere at Sol de Mayo waterfall.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICARDO RAMOS
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Set at the edge of the Sea of Cortez, Costa Palmas is a dramatic landscape, a private marina, a village to stroll, a golf course to master, and a home. Spread across the resort are organic farms, orchards and an estuary, the Beach & Yacht Club, the Marina Village, and a Robert Trent Jones II golf course and club. costapalmas.com
Founder’s Letter
illustration by bruce morser
➻ THE EAST CAPE is an extraordinary destination, blessed with spectacular natural beauty, unparalleled opportunities for adventure, and an easy-to-access location. There’s truly nowhere else like it in Baja—and beyond! Over the last six years, we’ve watched our members and guests discover—and fall in love with—the East Cape. We’re proud that Costa Palmas has introduced this incredible place and everything it has to offer to so many people. We’re also proud of what we’ve built at Costa Palmas, and we’re excited about what’s next: new opportunities and amenities at the Beach & Yacht Club and a significant focus on elevating and expanding our Marina Village. In 2022, the village will begin to realize its potential as a lively place where our community comes together. We can’t wait to share these new developments and many other future plans with you. In the meantime, we hope this premiere issue of Costa Palmas magazine inspires you to discover even more of what the East Cape—and the incredible Sea of Cortez—has to offer. Here’s to another year of making beautiful memories and building a lasting legacy together at Costa Palmas!
Jason Grosfeld
Chairman and CEO, Irongate
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welcome to the EAST CAPE
THEY CALL IT the Sea of Cortez; we call it the sea of dreams. Beneath, marine life that took Jacques Cousteau’s
breath away. Above, a sapphire sky. Between sea, sky, and the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, you and yours—in the calm embrace of the waters, in a fierce encounter with a marlin, in a state of wonder at a coral reef’s infinite marvel. In a day at the races and by night around a bonfire under the Milky Way. In your element at last.
Reflect more than style.
A bespoke collection inspired by nature Open 7 days a week | Hannah Artwear | Four Seasons Resort Retail Shops
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EAST CAPE
DEBUTS | INSIGHTS | INSPIRATION
Mozza Comes to Mexico Nancy Silverton brings to Costa Palmas her quintessential California style—with a Baja twist. ➻ Nancy Silverton has had a soft spot for Baja since she first visited the peninsula as a child on a road trip from her hometown of Los Angeles. “My dad packed my sister, mom, and me into a VW van and drove all the way down to Cabo San Lucas,” she says. “What an adventure!” It fits, then, that Silverton—the James Beard Foundation Award– winning chef behind the acclaimed L.A. eateries Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza, and chi SPACCA—chose Costa Palmas as the setting for her first restaurant in Mexico. She and her director of operations decided to expand her mini empire south of the border after visiting the resort last year. “We fell in love,” she says. “Baja is tranquil for me. It is so unlike Los Angeles.”
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FAMILY ADVENTURES P.12
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COFFEE TEQUILA TURTLES & MORE ➻
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Mozza Comes to Mexico
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Turtle Return
10 | 11 Mozza’s Nancy Silverton
Simply called Mozza (mozzabaja.com), her newly debuted restaurant at Costa Palmas is in the courtyard of the Marina Village. Diners can enjoy a culinary experience that combines the best of Silverton’s L.A. eateries with a distinctly Baja flair. A handmade wood-fired pizza oven is a fixture, but the menu changes depending on the current bounty of seafood, grain-fed pork, produce, and other ingredients from small farmers and food purveyors in and around the East Cape. “We will for sure take advantage of the superb seafood from the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean on the other side of Baja,” says Silverton. Examples include red snapper, wild mussels, and totoaba fish, which is native to the gulf. Silverton’s fans, of course, can also enjoy some of her most famous dishes: Nancy’s chopped salad, meatballs al forno, fennel sausage pizza, and a diet-bedamned butterscotch budino are all part of the lineup. Cult classics, delicious pizzas, and freshly caught seafood from a celebrity chef with Sea of Cortez views? With her new Mozza, Silverton guarantees an adventure for the senses. —shivani vora
➻ A concerted effort by conservationists, scientists, and Baja California Sur locals has helped bring turtles back to the Sea of Cortez. Costa Palmas, in partnership with the Cabo municipality, launched a program to protect miles of beach—from Cabo Pulmo to Leonero— that serve as nesting sites for olive ridley sea turtles. During nesting season, from June to December, Aventura team member and La Ribera local José “Pepito” Manriquez collects the eggs and keeps them safe at Costa Palmas. They hatch after about 45 days, and during hatching is when the magic happens for guests every day at sundown. Guests gather at the beach for the liberación, or release, of the newborns, witnessing the magic of the tiny creatures crawling along the sand toward the sea. The program releases almost 50,000 olive ridley hatchlings per season, and in 2021 organizers began releasing baby leatherback turtles for the first time. — celeste moure
➻ EVER SINCE Ana Holschneider Gómez and master artisan María del Socorro Gasca Chalqueño founded Caralarga in 2014, they’ve been elevating textile waste—scraps, discards, and other leftover materials—into fashionable wares. Now the brand is applying its sustainable approach to a capsule collection of 11 pieces inspired by Costa Palmas and the Sierra de la Laguna mountains. The handmade line includes breezy blouses and tailored dresses, as well as statement hats, woven bags, and jewelry—all in a monochromatic palette reflective of the desert landscape, with soft neutrals and hints of lush greens and calm blues. The collection marks the second collaboration between Caralarga and Costa Palmas, following the raw-cotton wall-hanging in the reception area of the Four Seasons Oasis Spa. Pieces are available for purchase at the spa and via the Caralarga website (caralarga.com.mx). — samantha brooks
Elemental Fashion
HIKING TO SOL DE MAYO: This easygoing waterfall hike begins in an ecological park in Santiago, a 40-minute drive from Costa Palmas. “On the way there, we stop for a quick visit to a natural oasis surrounded by palm trees,” says Magaña. “The locals refer to it as a mirage because it’s such an unusual sight in the middle of the desert.” Once at the park, guests continue the excursion on foot, hiking to the Sol de Mayo cascade and its blissful swimming hole. “It’s the perfect spot to take a refreshing break from the desert heat.”
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SNORKELING AT CABO PULMO: A 30-minute drive from Costa Palmas is this national marine park famously dubbed “the aquarium of the world” by Jacques Cousteau. Guests can snorkel or scuba dive and, depending on the season, see humpback whales, orcas, Mobula rays, turtles, and schools of jack fish. “Because these animals are protected and don’t feel threatened, you can experience a real close connection to them, whether you snorkel or dive,” says Magaña. “We can get quite close to a community of sea lions, and it’s not unusual for them to swim right up to a snorkeler’s face.”
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4 for Families ➻ FROM A HIDDEN waterfall at the foot of the Sierra de la Laguna mountains to a kaleidoscopic reef at Cabo Pulmo, the East Cape is a playground for adventurers of all ages. Here we highlight a few favorite family excursions, as chosen by Aventura’s Maria José Magaña. — celeste moure
GOING OFF-ROAD: Outside the lobby of the Four Seasons, riders put on helmets, goggles, and bandanas, climb aboard utility terrain vehicles, and drive off into the desert. “Guests get the feeling that they’re doing a tiny version of the Baja 1000,” says Magaña, referring to Baja’s annual 1,000-mile off-road race. Other off-road tours include the Sol de Mayo waterfall and, for a traditional farm experience, El Refugio. “Guests arrive at a working ranch and are greeted by a local family for a lunch that includes a demonstration on making tortillas and salsas,” Magaña says. “It’s really special and a chance to meet people from the community to learn about their way of life.” FISHING AND BOATING: Costa Palmas offers shore fishing, spearfishing, inshore fishing, and deep-sea fishing, and guests can choose from a fleet of luxury boats and yachts. “This is a completely curated experience according to what families want,” Magaña says. “Some people are really into fishing, but others just like the idea of going out on a boat, maybe catching some fish but also maybe catching sight of whales or other marine life—and, of course, jumping in the water and snorkeling or just sunbathing on the boat.”
Game On
SCORE BIG AT COSTA PALMAS’ SPORTS COMPLEX. Home runs, touchdowns, three-pointers, and aces are all part of the fun at Costa Palmas’ Sports Park, where you’ll find everything from a full-size baseball field to courts for pickleball and tennis. Win or lose, everyone can cool off in the grotto-style pool and refuel at Jimmy’s, an old-school soda fountain. Coming soon to the Sports Park: a new BMX pump track for bike riders of all levels. — c . m .
Aman CEO Vladislav Doronin on why the East Cape is ideally suited to the brand’s Mexican debut.
AGAZINE BRANDING
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ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
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➻ SINCE OPENING ITS first resort on the Thai island of Phuket in 1988, Aman has earned a fanatical following among the world’s most discriminating travelers. With Amanvari at Costa Palmas currently under construction, the company is advancing its plan to bring its singular vision to Mexico. The resort will comprise a hotel and a collection of four- to sevenbedroom residences (shown) set along freshwater estuaries and the Sea of Cortez. A main pavilion will include three restaurants, a library and lounge, and a 90-foot infinity pool flanked by four hot tubs. Aman’s chairman and CEO, Vladislav Doronin, spoke with Costa Palmas magazine about Amanvari and what drew him to the East Cape. — shivani vora
How would you describe your vision for Amanvari?
To create an otherworldly sanctuary in a dramatic desert landscape enveloped by the gentle waters of the Sea of Cortez.
photo credit goes here
An Aman Oasis
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photo credit goes here
➻
An Aman Oasis
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The Aman experience in Baja—what does it look like? 16 | 17
Hallmarks of Aman will be the same: our generosity of space, exceptional locations, unparalleled service, privacy, and peace, plus world-leading architecture and interior design. Yet, we design our properties in keeping with their natural landscape. Amanvari will be no different. With Amanvari’s design, you’re not just close to nature—you’re immersed in it. The resort sits along freshwater estuaries that provide nursery grounds for native vegetation and marine life. The low density means that each residence is embedded within the natural environment, giving the indigenous palms and succulents plenty of breathing space. This will extend beyond the property itself to also encompass the experiences offered, which will be drawing inspiration from the local culture and environment.
ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
520.850.3769
hunter@vonderkingcreative.com
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What are some of Amanvari’s standout amenities?
The main pavilion and the spa pavilion. Our forthcoming properties will be equipped with a holistic offering, which will include spiritual wellness, nutrition, physical training, and the spa. I believe strongly in the value of health and wellness, and my experiences at Aman properties have helped to shape my daily practices of qigong, meditation, and yoga.
What drew you to the East Cape?
There is something in the raw landscape. The location set below the mountains— on the edge of the dunes within a palm oasis, which has panoramic Sea of Cortez views—felt fitting for Aman’s first destination in Mexico.
Which activities are you most excited about? I love water sports, so I’m very much looking forward to frequenting the Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club and chartering a yacht to explore the Sea of Cortez. When I was last at the East Cape, I tried a dune buggy for the first time, and I loved it. I can’t wait to jump in a dune buggy again.
East Cape in a Bottle ➻ IT TOOK 73 tries to craft the perfect profile for what would become Costa Palmas’ signature tequila. Appropriately named, CP73 Joven is made with hand-selected blue agave grown in the mineral-rich hills of Amatitán, Jalisco, and slow roasted in traditional brick ovens. The newly launched spirit is a blend of a blanco tequila and a 48-month-old añejo tequila aged in oak whiskey barrels, which add a subtle sweetness and complexity. The result? A spirit that, no matter where you sip it, can transport you to a serene beach on the Sea of Cortez. “Inspired by the setting and experience of Costa Palmas, this tequila, when you enjoy it at home, will bring back great memories of your time and adventures on the East Cape,” says Ricardo Medina, Costa Palmas’ senior director of marketing. CP73 is available to members at the Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club and can be purchased at East Cape Co. in the mercadito at the Four Seasons resort. — celeste moure
A Common Goal
“Conserva Collective’s sargassum project is based on the idea that if we align ourselves with fishing communities by seeking out alternative sources of income, we can become more impactful in our solutions to relieve pressures on fishing while empowering the next generation of these communities.”
An Ingredient for Good
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Coming Clean
ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
520.850.3769
hunter@vonderkingcreative.com
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Studying the Source
“In Bahía de La Paz, there’s an ecological retreat and working investigation site aligned with the university in La Paz, and it’s one of the places where sargassum washes up. We bring students, tourists, professors, and as many different types of people as possible to the site to raise awareness and interest in how partnering with local fishing communities can have an impact.”
illustration by bruce morser
➻ STOP BY CASENA in the Marina Village, and among the boutique’s curated selection of home goods, apparel, and pantry staples from artisans and designers throughout Mexico, you’ll find handcrafted soaps by Conserva Collective. The local company collects the sargassum that washes up along the beaches of Baja and puts it to good use. Conserva’s founder, Brandon Rus, explains how harvesting seaweed for soap can help rehabilitate ecosystems and inspire future generations. — celeste moure
“Sargassum can work as an exfoliating ingredient in natural bar soaps, but the seaweed can also be used in composting, and in adobe as one of the binding ingredients to make structures. This is already being done in the Yucatán, and we’re working on doing it in Baja.”
Looking to the Future
“The idea has always been to focus on the next generation and to expose them to these communities. We’ve started a school, and we take students ages 9 to 13 on field trips to learn techniques from the communities. In La Duna, we’ll work with a professor in identifying marine organisms, harvesting sargassum, and learning what we find in the sargassum. The goal is to touch upon things like what sustainable harvesting means and how we can share the local knowledge from the community to inspire the next generation.”
BACK TO NATURE Brandon Rus’s Conserva Collective gathers the sargassum, or seaweed, that washes up along Baja’s desert beaches and uses it not only as an exfoliating ingredient in its natural bar soaps, but also as a way to help support local ecosystems and communities.
Seaside Splendor
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Residences at Costa Palmas bring home the best of Baja living.
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➻ ACCORDING TO MICHAEL RADOVAN, managing director of Costa Palmas, there’s a simple explanation for why the community is the ultimate base for yacht owners in Baja California. “You can own a villa on the sand with unobstructed Sea of Cortez views and a 100-foot dock at your front door with a boat sitting right there,” he says. “That’s hard to beat.” The new Four Seasons Marina Villas (see “On the Waterfront,” page 56) are especially alluring for boaters, but Costa Palmas offers a range of residential options for every lover of the East Cape. Four Seasons residences begin at $2.9 million and include everything from two- to four-bedroom condos to beachfront villas. The new Aman resort, Amanvari, features 46 lots that start at $6 million and are located on the beach, golf course, or a ridge 50 feet above the water. “Amanvari is an opportunity to create your dream home from the ground up and have the Aman brand behind it,” says Radovan. Behind every residence, of course, is the Costa Palmas community, which is home to an oceanfront Robert Trent Jones II golf course, a family sports complex, a beach club, and the new heart of the resort: Marina Village. The village itself will soon see the debut of yet another can’t-be-beat amenity for boaters: the Costa Palmas Yacht Club, scheduled to open in 2024 with multiple restaurants, bars, and activities for seafarers of all ages. —shivani vora
Harsha L’Acqua The Saira Hospitality founder on the importance of a community-first philosophy. ➻ AS A GIRL, Harsha L’Acqua was immersed in her father’s philanthropic work alongside Mother Teresa. So it was only natural that L’Acqua, a graduate of Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration, would set out to make a difference. Her nonprofit, Saira Hospitality (sairahospitality.com), combines her passions for philanthropy and travel by offering hospitality training in underserved communities. Based in Todos Santos, Saira has placed more than 250 graduates at top resorts and developments, including several staff members at Costa Palmas. Here she shares her thoughts on community development and the Costa Palmas Foundation (comunidadcostapalmas.com), the newly launched nonprofit focused on environmental, social, and economic programs in La Ribera, surrounding villages, and the Sea of Cortez.
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Harsha L’Acqua
What impact do you hope to see from the Costa Palmas Foundation?
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Your company, Saira Hospitality, was recently nominated for “best new concept” by the Awards for Hospitality, Experience, and Design (AHEAD). What’s new about your concept and why is it important now?
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Saira Hospitality is a nonprofit transforming the way hotels engage with local communities through education. We target the unemployed and underemployed workforce that hasn’t had access to hospitality-skills training, and launch pop-up and permanent schools globally, giving them the knowledge, skills, and education they need to build careers in the hotel industry. I don’t know that what we do is, or even should be, considered “new”—why is it a “new concept” for the hospitality industry to build relationships with local communities, to give education, and to offer opportunities? This talent is the heart, soul, and lifeline of our industry, and we need to start thinking out of the box to source and celebrate this talent.
How has this approach worked at Costa Palmas?
In 2017, we produced a seven-week program to educate and train locals from the La Ribera community for positions at Costa Palmas. We interviewed over 100 locals for 70 spaces in the program, which translated into 60 jobs for graduates overall. In addition to equipping students with the skills and knowledge needed to excel in their roles, we also organized excursions to luxury hotels and restaurants where students could experience high-level service firsthand.
We believe that the Costa Palmas Foundation— which focuses on the needs of the community first, whether it be education, agriculture, or infrastructure—will be able to elevate and celebrate its local community and lead the way for other hospitality organizations to do the same. We feel it will send a message to local communities that our industry can do so much more than put heads in beds—that we genuinely care about our neighborhoods and the people in them. I see the foundation as a force for good, something to inspire hope, excitement, and a sense of relief that change is coming, but this time it’s positive change.
You recently moved to Baja. Of all the places to base Saira Hospitality, why here?
Saira Hospitality officially started in Baja, when we did our first school in Todos Santos in 2016. There’s a lot of potential for Saira in Mexico, and we are currently fundraising for our first permanent school in San José del Cabo. Ironically, on a personal note, there was one week, toward the end of our first school in Todos Santos, where I fainted at dinner, stepped on a blowfish, and got stung by a wasp. One of my students, Teresa, said to me, “You know what this means, Harsha? Todos Santos has decided you will not leave this place. This is your home.” Five years later, it pulled me back to where it all began.
What’s your personal favorite thing about living in Baja?
The energy resonates with me; it is an intense energy where you’re thrown into the natural elements—the sun, the dust, the wind, and the storms. Yet the beauty of the landscape, the mountains under the stars, the turquoise of the seas, and the precious sunrises and sunsets are hard to find anywhere else. Each day, as the sun sets, it feels as though the entire town stops to watch, to take a minute, to celebrate another day, and to say thank you for the magic that we are so lucky to have on our doorsteps.
The Costa Palmas Foundation focuses on environmental, social, and economic programs in local communities. comunidadcostapalmas.com
GROUNDED IN COMMUNITY Projects that put local communities first—through infrastructure, agriculture, and the like—are the focus of Harsha L’Acqua’s Saira Hospitality and Costa Palmas’ own nonprofit, the recently launched Costa Palmas Foundation.
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➻ THE STREETS OF downtown San José del Cabo are replete with the architectural vernacular, and the spirit, of an older Baja. Which is why it’s a bit of a surprise to find Coffee Lab—with its soaring ceilings, white-on-marble palette, and urbane patrons pecking away at their laptops or chatting over flat whites and breakfast sandwiches—right at the city center. Though on the surface it suggests San Francisco or Sydney as much as it says San José del Cabo, Coffee Lab packs plenty of Mexico in the details— which is exactly the way owner Gerardo Rivero Valencia likes it. Trained as an architect (his firm, RIMA, has designed everything from residences to breweries and cultural centers in Baja California Sur), Rivero founded the brick-and-mortar Coffee Lab in 2015 to furnish his clientele with much more than just a good cappuccino. “It’s a cultural hub, a place that’s a platform,” he says. “And that’s what I always wanted it to be.”
Baja Coffee Culture Gerardo Rivero Valencia’s Coffee Lab serves up an enticing blend of caffeine and local color. BY MARIA SHOLLENBARGER
You might find a show of new work in the gallery space, hear a talk by a Mexican architect, enjoy a DJ performance in the courtyard, or all three. BREW MASTER Gerardo Rivero Valencia (left) has whipped up much more than a coffeehouse with Coffee Lab, mixing contemporary culture and Mexican coffee, which also is served at Costa Palmas’ Casena (far left and below).
On any given day at Coffee Lab, you might find a show of new work in the gallery space, hear a talk by a Mexican architect, enjoy a musical or DJ performance in the courtyard, or all three. At night—particularly on Thursdays, during San José’s weekly Art Walk—Coffee Lab extends its hours to become a bar, serving up specialty cocktails with the tunes until 1 a.m. Still, at its heart, Rivero’s retreat is about coffee—Mexican coffee. “We bring in beans from Oaxaca, Chiapas, Veracruz, and Guerrero states,” Rivero explains. “All Mexican, but the notes you find are unique: some are fruity, some nuttier, some more citric.” All are roasted on-site. A straight medium roast is the Coffee Lab house style: “It lets you really taste every one of those notes,” he says. Rivero’s roasts can also be found at Costa Palmas’ Casena, which exclusively serves coffee made from Coffee Lab beans. The first retail space to debut at the Marina Village, the coffeehouse is next door to Mozza at the waterfront destination’s heart. Guests who arrive by foot, bicycle, golf cart, or yacht can enjoy freshly baked bread along with a perfect cappuccino or latté made by a Coffee Lab–trained barista. Like Coffee Lab, Casena is fast becoming a gathering spot in the evolving cultural destination of Baja’s East Cape. “I feel like the architecture here is booming; it’s becoming more contemporary,” Rivero says. “And people are moving here from all over the world. It’s an exciting time to be here.”
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➻ IF THE MEASURE of a golf course is whether you can replay each hole in your head, then the Costa Palmas Golf Club is a crowning achievement. Every hole of the course—designed by acclaimed golf course architect Robert Trent Jones II—is a universe unto itself, offering memorable angles, lies, vistas, and moments for golfers of all stripes. That said, it’s the way the course comes together as a whole that makes it such an ideal venue for the modern game of golf. Instead of a typical out-and-back 18, Costa Palmas’ layout has been shaped by a landscape whose features informed three six-hole sections. The first loop runs near the ocean; the second extends across the barrancas up into the highlands, looking toward the mountains in the distance; and the third stretches along the marina and the clubhouse near the sea. “You can play six holes or 12 holes, in any order you want,” says Jones. “You can even start in the middle if you wish.”
Modern Golf on the East Cape Costa Palmas’ one-of-a-kind course is perfectly suited to today’s game—and the way it’s meant to be enjoyed. BY MICHAEL WILLIAMS
Everyone can find the game they enjoy— from a six-hole jaunt with a cocktail in tow to a challenging 18-hole test of skill.
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The on-course Lucha Libre (left) serves up spectacular tacos and a range of mezcals, tequilas, and more.
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Jones’s play-as-you-like layout is perfectly suited to this beautiful stretch of grass, sand, and marshland on the East Cape, where the focus is on the joy and camaraderie of golf. “The only rules we really emphasize are to relax, have fun, and enjoy all the aspects of the experience the day brings,” says the club’s general manager, Chris Martinez. Most modern golfers would agree on those rules. It’s an exciting time for the sport, with participation and interest levels rising. The many new golfers have brought with them their own approach to the game and the golf experience, but this new mindset need not preclude healthy competition. At Costa Palmas, everyone can find the game they enjoy—from a sixhole jaunt with a cocktail in tow to a challenging 18-hole test of skill.
PRACTICE IN PARADISE The only work some of us want to do on vacation is on our golf game, and the practice area at Costa Palmas is a stunning place to improve your skills. There’s an expansive range with various targets and a huge accompanying short-game area with an artistically undulated complex of putting greens. The entire practice area, in fact, can double as a short course. “You can take the practice range and turn it into a kid’s fun course. You can also turn it into a par-3 fun course for adults,” says Jones. “The putting green is designed so that it can be a huge social green for after-golf games and contests. It’s very flexible for all skill levels, from beginner to advanced, and it provides challenges and excitement for all.”
BILL HORNSTEIN
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STATION TO STATION The Costa Palmas Golf Club takes the concept of comfort stations to another level. Finding a way to hang out at Bouchie’s open-air café (above) from sunrise to sunset—eating delicious food, practicing your short game, going back for afternoon drinks—is easy. “Golf at Costa Palmas is accentuated by a concierge service component from beginning to end, highlighted by a start at Bouchie’s for drinks or a bite and stops at Lucha Libre along the way,” Martinez says. Lucha Libre first appears at hole No. 8 and again, wonderfully, at No. 13 (left: a food truck at No. 19), and it’s well worth stopping twice. One of the greatest outdoor restaurants in the middle of a golf course anywhere, Lucha Libre serves up delicious tacos and a range of drinks, including dozens of mezcals and tequilas.
Costa Palmas is walkable—a rare feature among Baja courses—and with challenges from the back tee and more forgiving play from the front tees, there’s something for every golfer.
PURE GOLF Golf at Costa Palmas is different from what you find elsewhere on the Baja California peninsula. The course can be demanding and at the same time forgiving, depending on the experience you desire. “There are multiple tees, so from the back tee, the expert player faces all they can chew on, and from the front tees, [anyone] can play and have a good time,” says Jones. Another uncommon attribute of a Baja course: Costa Palmas is walkable. “Its general characteristics don’t have any strong three- dimensional hikes up and down hills,” Jones says. “It’s near the sea—a desert by the sea— and therefore the fresh breezes cool you down and are a part of the strategy of each hole. It’s a sandy site, and it’s the only walkable golf course in the Cabo area.” Costa Palmas’ walkability is another piece of the club’s modern-day makeup. The course is a place for everyone—the highly skilled golfer and the fun-loving, casual player alike. There’s a relaxed, beach-style dress code, and the emphasis is always on maximizing enjoyment— whether it be through great golf shots or fine mezcal with family and friends.
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An Escape to
ESPÍRITU An epic Sea of Cortez sailing with Aventura reveals the magical scenes—and sounds—of an island paradise. BY JACK IE C A R A D ONIO
LIFE OFFSHORE Chartering a yacht to explore the marinelife-rich waters near Costa Palmas—just 50 miles from the marina—opens up a myriad of possibilities, from epic snorkeling and spearfishing to soaking up magnificent sunsets.
First you see Los Islotes. Then you hear Los Islotes. It’s difficult to say which is more dramatic: the vision of the rocky island in the middle of the Sea of Cortez, with royal blue waves lapping all around, or the sound of the hundreds of sea lions that call it home, their barks and grunts bellowing in one long, continuous chorus. The most dramatic part, actually, is when you feel Los Islotes as you drop into the shimmering water and snorkel through overlapping schools of colorful parrotfish, angelfish, and sergeant major fish. And then, coasting through them like giant, whiskered torpedoes, the sea lions swim and twirl around you, leaving in their wake a burst of bubbles that bounces off your goggles and softly rises to the surface. opposite : jackie caradonio
The craggy landmass of Los Islotes sits just off the coast of Mexico’s Espíritu Santo, an uninhabited island some 20 miles as the crow flies from La Paz—and about 50 miles from the marina at Costa Palmas. Out here, there are no restaurants or crowded bars, and hardly any roads—only pristine beaches, clear blue water, and plenty of sea lions to share the spectacle with.
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ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
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jackie caradonio ; opposite : map illustration by hunter king
An Escape to Espíritu
Marco Peña, director of Costa Palmas’ activities team, Aventura, has been coming to Espíritu Santo for decades. Despite the island’s isolated location, there are plenty of ways to get to it, he tells me, from rustic fishermen’s pangas to zippy catamarans. But few are as refined as the one he’s taken me out on—the 98-foot yacht Princess II, managed by Princess Yachts Mexico. With five bedrooms and bathrooms and a crew of six (including a private chef), it is part of a fleet of luxury yachts available to those looking to experience attentive service and a curated program while sailing on the Sea of Cortez. Charters can last up to five nights, but it’s also possible to see the best of Espíritu Santo and surrounds on a onenight itinerary. Regardless of the length of the trip, guests can enjoy snorkeling, jet skiing, and other water sports, as well as hyper-fresh meals paired with wines from Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe. After snorkeling at Los Islotes, Peña joins me for lunch on the aft deck of Princess II as we sail to the northern tip of Espíritu Santo. “What’s that one called?” I ask about a flawless beach he points out along the way. “No hay nombre,” Peña responds. “And that one?” I point to an especially perfect crescent of gold sand where a couple of sailing yachts have gathered just offshore. “No hay nombre,” he says with a smile. The point is made: around here, you don’t name your beaches, because there are no roads to get to them, and besides, if you named them, they wouldn’t be much of a secret anymore, would they? When Princess II drops anchor near a beach on nearby Isla Partida, I’m surprised to discover that this one does have a name: Ensenada Grande (aka Big Cove). That’s because it’s listed as one of the most beautiful beaches
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in the world by nearly every travel magazine on the planet—and yet, it’s entirely empty. Nary a beach umbrella or sandcastle to be found, just like every other stretch of sand that we pass as we leisurely sail around the island and back southward. Peña is the kind of person you want by your side for this (or any) expedition. A 20-year guide and lifelong explorer, he has done just about everything an adventurer can do in Baja California. There was the time he cycled 100 kilometers in Ensenada, and once he caught a 40-pound amberjack while spearfishing at Costa Palmas. He’s hiked the entire mountain range of the Sierra de la Laguna and has been scuba diving up and down the coral reef at Cabo Pulmo. You can also find him kitesurfing— another popular local sport—in the waters around Costa Palmas. “The East Cape is known for outdoor activities because of the diversity of ecosystems we have here. You can very quickly go from ocean to desert and into the mountains and forest,” he tells me. “What I love most about it is the sense of remoteness and raw nature.”
36 | 37
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Kitesurfing The East Cape offers ideal kitesurfing conditions (December to February is the best time), thanks to consistent winds from the north in winter and spring, and come summertime, east winds also create the right environment. Peña brings guests to some of his favorite spots in Los Barriles and, closer to La Paz, La Ventana, widely known as the best kitesurfing location in all of Baja. Perfect winds can also be found in certain months right at Costa Palmas.
Mountain Biking Seeing Baja on two wheels is as exhilarating as it is gratifying. Some of the region’s best mountain biking trails are located just 20 minutes from Costa Palmas, allowing for half-day rides that can include intense climbs, technical sections, and thrilling descents where you’ll take in the natural beauty of the East Cape at a heart-pounding speed. Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, there’s a local trail full of challenges and rewards that’s right for your skill set.
Overnight Hiking Aventura’s one- to three-night private treks into the Sierra de la Laguna mountains show off the many sides of Baja, taking guests from tropical deserts to fertile valleys and pristine coastline. On guided trips, guests can visit a ravine where a swim in an ice-cold spring awaits, summit peaks on the Baja California peninsula, climb to the crest of a canyon waterfall at Rancho Ecológico Sol de Mayo, and sleep under the stars at a base camp where a chef cooks breakfast and dinner. “The views are amazing,” Aventura’s director, Marco Peña, says of the Sierra de la Laguna. “The air changes, it gets cooler—and you’re exploring so many different places in such a short time.”
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MAKING A SPLASH A fiery Baja sun sets on the Sea of Cortez.
An Escape to Espíritu
That raw nature whizzes by as Princess II continues south toward Costa Palmas. The sun is due to set in about an hour, and the captain has promised us a show for the occasion. When the yacht finally slows down, the taste of salty spray is faint on my lips. I sip Champagne and watch from a chaise on the bow as a little cove, Playa Balandra, slowly comes into view. There, on the beach, a rock formation that resembles a giant mushroom sits on the edge of the shore. Behind us, hovering over the aft deck, the fiery sun takes one last bow before slipping beneath the horizon. All is still, and then I hear it: this time it’s not the grunts of sea lions, but the thumping of Princess II’s sound system setting the mood for an impromptu dusk dance party before we sail into the night. Jackie Caradonio is the former travel director for Departures magazine. Her work as a freelance journalist and photographer has been featured in Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Town & Country, National Geographic, and The New York Times.
Contact Aventura for a custom itinerary to explore the Sea of Cortez by yacht.
Spearfishing A popular pursuit in Baja, spearfishing is an incredible way to see the varied marine life of the region—and maybe even bring home a fresh catch. Aventura guides take guests to the Pacific Ocean on this two-hour excursion, for an education in the basics of shooting the spear plus techniques for spending longer periods of time underwater. “We mostly spearfish for snapper and grouper,” says Peña. “You can catch anything, from something you could take home and put on your plate for dinner to a massive beast up to 50 pounds.”
Surfing Baja is world famous for its waves, and some of the best are just a short drive from Costa Palmas. Peña and his guides know all the top breaks, and on six-hour surfing safaris they introduce novice and advanced surfers alike to spots you’ll only find with an in-the-know local. In winter, the best swells are in the Pacific, while spring through early fall brings incredible waves to the East Cape. No matter which side of the peninsula you surf, Peña guarantees the same amazing experience: “It’s remote, it’s not overcrowded, and the waves are perfect and friendly!”
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The BOUNTY of
BAJA
The East Cape’s rich agricultural traditions and modern organic farms offer up all the ingredients for a one-of-a-kind culinary destination. BY SHIVANI VORA
The BOUNTY of BAJA
SIMPLE ABUNDANCE Costa Palmas’ organic garden owes its prolific yield to talented farmers like Tony (opposite), who tends to the plot’s planting and harvesting.
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THE BAJA CALIFORNIA PENINSULA
is world renowned for its beaches, moun-
tains, and outdoor pursuits, but the region is also an ideal setting for something you won’t see in most tourist brochures: farming. Indeed, Baja’s abundance extends to a rich agricultural heritage that is thriving today along the East Cape. Baja’s farming traditions date to the 18th century, when Jesuit missionaries first settled in the region. “The Jesuits started planting crops in their missions as a way to feed themselves,” says Fabiola Rodriguez, Costa Palmas’ agriculture and community affairs manager and a Baja native. “It’s a practice that carries on today.” The East Cape exemplifies Baja’s modern- day farming culture, and Rodriguez says that there are at least 100 small organic farms near Costa Palmas alone. In years past, the produce that local farmers grew was mostly exported to the United States and Canada. While this is still the case today, local produce has become more of a mainstay at many Baja hotels, restaurants, and residential communities, Costa Palmas included. “As tourism has picked up, international chefs have moved in and are looking to local ingredients for their cooking,” Rodriguez says.
The BOUNTY of BAJA
FARM TO TABLE Thanks in part to the Baja region’s several microclimates, Costa Palmas’ organic garden (opposite) produces a wide range of seasonal crops, from citrus and avocado to arugula and squash, and much of this produce finds its way into dishes that members and guests enjoy at the resort community’s restaurants.
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Baja’s farming season runs from September through March, when milder temperatures allow crops to thrive. Rodriguez points out that the region has several microclimates that promote favorable growing conditions for a wide variety of seasonal crops—everything from heirloom tomatoes and rainbow carrots in gorgeous purples and reds to peppery arugula, avocados, summer and winter squashes, guavas, papayas, and mangoes. East Cape locals celebrate the bounty of their homeland with festivals throughout the harvest season. The town of La Ribera, where Costa Palmas is located, is home to a sweet-potato festival. Another village, Santiago, hosts one for mangoes where chefs and residents proffer specialties with the fruit, including
jams, puddings, ceviches, dried mango sprinkled with chili powder, and hard candies. For Costa Palmas, the advantages of having such a thriving farming culture close by are clear. Local and seasonal agricultural products—as well as meats and seafood—not only are fresher than ingredients shipped in from elsewhere, but also promote sustainable eating and are more environmentally friendly because they don’t require significant carbon emissions to travel to their final stop. Costa Palmas even has its own farm, which cultivates a myriad of herbs—cilantro, parsley, mint, and Thai and purple basil among them. Rodriguez and her team are expanding the plot to 18 acres that will eventually include a nearby restaurant being developed by culinary director and executive chef Gonzo Cerda.
Cerda says that the culinary program for his restaurants at Costa Palmas is built on the philosophy that the dishes members and guests enjoy must be made mostly with Baja ingredients. Ideally, these should be sourced from the East Cape. “My main goal as the culinary director and chef is to rely on the abundance of food producers around us for everything we create,” he says. One of Cerda’s go-to farms is El Tiky, run by the Verdugo family. The organic-certified business has three orchards in different areas of Baja of varying elevation, terrain, soil type, and temperature. “El Tiky was one of the first farms to sell to local restaurants and hotels,” Cerda says. “They’re able to provide us with the best seasonal vegetables throughout the year because of their different microclimates.”
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Eduardo Verdugo, the family’s patriarch, attributes much of his farm’s success to respecting nature. “We prepare our own compost that nourishes the soil, and we understand the changes in the microclimate of each place,” he says. Costa Palmas’ local-first approach extends to the sea. Julio Obando, a supplier who has worked in Baja for nearly 20 years, sources Costa Palmas’ seafood from local fishermen who use only small boats called pangas and a fishing rod and line. Their catch—tuna, snapper, mackerel, abalone, and more—is delivered straight from the dock to Costa Palmas daily. When it comes to meat and poultry, ranches near La Ribera provide Costa Palmas with pork, lamb, and chicken. “These animals roam free and are fed 100 percent organic food,” says Cerda. A bevy of artisanal food producers—for cheese, tortillas, and sweets—also figures into Costa Palmas’ supply chain. “Most are located in small towns no more than 20 or 30 minutes away, such as Miraflores and San Bartolo.” The access Cerda has to such high-quality ingredients gives him and the culinary team freedom to create flavorful, bright dishes for guests. At Pavilion—a beachfront restaurant that’s a lunchtime favorite and emphasizes light food with Mexican flavors—the best-selling item is a cobb salad with corn, beans, romaine, avocado, and peppers from El Tiky. A ceviche with green mangoes, onion, cilantro, and Obando’s best fish of the day is another popular pick. Costa Palmas’ Beach Club restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine with Mexican influences. The menu includes a slow-roasted pork chop, whole-roasted chicken with poblano sauce, and grilled fish of the day with a salsa of tomatoes, capers, and olives. “Each ingredient is local except for the high-end olive oil from Tuscany that we use to finish the dishes,” Cerda says. At Lucha Libre, on the 13th hole of the golf course, the toppings for the pizza al pastor— such as pork, grilled pineapple, serrano chiles, cilantro, and mozzarella-like asadero cheese— all hail from the East Cape. “We don’t need to look far to make delicious food for our guests,” says Cerda. “Rather, we need and also want to show the world how incredible the agriculture and food traditions are in Baja.”
HARVEST TIME In addition to Costa Palmas’ own growing operation, the resort benefits from Baja’s thriving farming culture—some 100 small organic farms are located nearby.
Flavors of the East Cape Gonzo Cerda, executive chef at Costa Palmas, shares two of his favorite dishes featuring East Cape ingredients.
Cortez Sea Scallops in Yuzu-Serrano Aguachile
San Bartolo’s Lamb Shank Quesabirria
Serves 2
Makes 6
Ingredients
Ingredients
8 Cortez sea scallops (pen shell scallops)
Aguachile
1 tbsp. bottled yuzu juice 1 serrano chile, chopped, divided ½ cup lime juice 1 tbsp. fresh cilantro, chopped ½ small unpeeled Persian cucumber, chopped ½ cup water Salt and fresh-cracked black pepper to taste
Garnishes
1 avocado, sliced into wedges 1 tbsp. red onion, chopped 1 small Persian cucumber, thinly sliced 1 small red radish, thinly sliced 1 tbsp. green mango, chopped
STEP 1: Clean the scallops well by removing the outer membrane, and cut into thin slices (two to three slices per scallop). Reserve in the fridge.
photo credit goes here
STEP 2: Make the aguachile. Place the ingredients, using just half of the serrano chile, in a blender and process until it becomes a green liquid. Add salt and pepper to taste. The flavor is acidic, and the level of spiciness can be adjusted according to preference by gradually adding the remaining serrano pepper in small quantities. STEP 3: Place the scallop slices on a plate as if it were carpaccio, pour the aguachile on top, and marinate for five minutes. Decorate with garnishes. NOTE: This dish is only cured with aguachile for a few minutes, so the scallops should be as fresh as possible.
1 lamb shank 1 white onion, finely chopped 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped ½ small leek, white and lightgreen parts only, chopped ½ head garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tbsp. bay leaf powder 1 tbsp. whole black peppercorns 1 tbsp. fennel seeds 1 tbsp. coriander seeds
2 cloves 1 tbsp. cumin 1 tbsp. smoked paprika Salt and pepper Olive oil 6 corn tortillas 12 oz. asadero cheese 1 small red onion, finely julienned 1 small bunch cilantro, chopped 1 serrano chile, chopped
STEP 1: Season the lamb shank with salt and pepper, then sear on both sides in a hot pan with a little olive oil. Remove and set aside. STEP 2: In the same hot pan (without cleaning—it is important to keep the remaining flavor of the lamb shank), sauté all of the vegetables until nicely golden brown, then add a little cold water and gently scrape the bottom of the pan surface with a wooden spoon to get all flavor left by the ingredients (do not add salt and pepper at this stage). STEP 3: In a medium-size pot, place the shank, vegetable mixture, and remaining ingredients, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add cold water until it just covers the ingredients. Cover the pot and cook at the lowest possible temperature for approximately two hours. Make sure the ingredients are always covered by water; as the water evaporates, add more. STEP 4: Once the shank is cooked, remove it from the water and shred it completely. The meat should be very tender and easy to remove from the bone. STEP 5: In a medium-size pan over high heat, sauté the shredded meat with a little olive oil until it is lightly browned. Set aside. STEP 6: Use the medium-size pan to heat each tortilla on one side, turn it over, then place the asadero cheese on top; let it melt slightly. Add lamb on top of the cheese, followed by other toppings. Close the quesadilla in half and turn to finish browning on the other side.
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The East Cape’s rich equestrian traditions come to life at the cuadras and tastes in Santiago and beyond. BY CECILIA ESCRIBANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM BOUYER
✦ ROOTED IN THE RACES
AND THEY’RE OFF! At the taste, or track, in Santiago, locals look on as horses from the stables of Baja’s East Cape compete in the day’s contests. Alejandro Cota Montaño (opposite), patriarch of the Cuadra la Misión stables, entered two horses—El Tronador and La Marea—in the events.
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It was just after 2 p.m. at the Santiago racetrack as Alejandro Cota Montaño made his final preparations. Cota Montaño, patriarch of the nearby Cuadra la Misión stables, was entering two horses, El Tronador and La Marea, in the day’s contests. His face revealed a youthful passion for what was to come—and the wisdom of a lifetime spent in the stables of Baja’s East Cape. Cota Montaño was soon joined in the stable by his son Federico, his assistant, Jhosep, and the legendary jockey Edgar Garayzar, aka “El Carrera.” They washed and rinsed the horses, then El Carrera saddled them and led them to the gates. Cota Montaño stood by the door to make sure El Tronador was in the right position for the first contest, and then they were off! He watched as the races unfolded, rooted in the rites that have been in his family for generations.
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Horse racing is a time-honored tradition throughout Mexico. In rural parts of the country, these social, recreational, and economic events take place in open-air tastes, or tracks. The parades of horses and jockeys bravely heading into competition embody the unconquerable spirit of Mexico. Here, horses are symbols of strength and endurance, representing the race and struggle of life. In Baja California Sur, locals gather at the tastes in Santiago, Migriño, Todos Santos, and San Pedro. Anywhere from two to 10 races are held in the region per year, but there’s no fixed calendar or schedule. Instead, the owners of the cuadras, or stables, organize and plan the events as they go. Locals—and visitors—can attend the races for a small cover fee, coming to see the horses and jockeys like Jesús “Chuy” Armenta Chirusa, a renowned competitor who has been racing for nearly 40 years. Bets are informally made among the attendees—not official, in the tradition of horse races of years past—
and the most sizable wagers are among the cuadra owners. Located about 30 minutes from Costa Palmas, in Santiago, the Cuadra la Misión stables have been in the Cota family for decades. The patriarch, Alejandro Cota Montaño, was born and raised in Santiago, and the land, community, and local horse-racing tradition are his birthrights. The oldest of nine children, he comes from a long line of racers: his grandparents competed against each other in the legendary Cota versus Montaño races. His parents married in the 1940s and made their home at Rancho la Misión. “Horses are my life,” says Cota Montaño, who began training racehorses from a very young age. “Horses back then were wild, not pure like the horses we have today. We used to play de a raya with them: we would draw a line on the ground from where we would have to start, but the horses would never start the race at the same time.”
SPIRIT OF TRADITION Federico (opposite top), son of Cuadra la Misión’s Cota Montaño, learned to care for horses from his father—a gifted horseman—and helps carry on the family’s legacy. Others keeping Mexico’s tradition of horse racing alive include those from Cuadra los Socios (opposite bottom) and Cuadra de las Vinoramas, with Bandido on the racetrack (above).
✦ ROOTED IN THE RACES
HANDS-DOWN WINNERS Legendary jockey Edgar Garayzar (opposite, astride Marea Negra), aka El Carrera, of Cuadra la Misión, has known many a victory, and on this day at the Santiago track, the team from Cuadra de las Vinoramas (below) has that winning feeling, too—with Bandido claiming a first-place finish.
Cota Montaño and his fellow competitors introduced a starting gate, or sistema de puertas, to the local races in the 1970s. Through the years, he made his mark on the equestrian community in other ways, too. The gifted horseman began caring for horses outside of his ranch after others saw how he whispered to his own animals. “I started taking care of other people’s horses, taming them and preparing them for races,” he says. Those horses—like his own—started doing well. And this is when the legend took hold. “It’s not that our horses are the best,” Cota Montaño says. “In fact, there are great horses everywhere. Instead, it’s the way we take care of them that makes the difference.” The way he takes care of his horses has been passed down to his sons, Federico and Eric. The family suffered the heartbreaking loss of Eric, but his brother and father carry on his, and the Cota clan’s, legacy. There’s a saying in Spanish: “Hazte fama y échate a dormir.” Essentially, first you work hard to build your reputation, then you can rest. This seems to be the mantra of Cota Montaño and his family. Both his reputation and that of Cuadra la Misión are highly esteemed in the horse-racing community. They are, in fact, the team to beat. “My dream and goal is to always win,” Cota Montaño says. “But sometimes I lose. One must always know how to lose gracefully.” That day at the Santiago racetrack, his horses El Tronador and La Marea won and lost, respectively. But regardless of the results, there was pride in the process. Today, the spirit of Baja’s horse-racing traditions is alive at Cuadra la Misión—and throughout the region—thanks to the passion and persistence of Cota Montaño.
To inquire about visiting a cuadra in Santiago or attending local races, please contact the Costa Palmas team. 54 | 55
photo credit goes here
C O S TA PA L M A S H O M E
On the
Waterf ront Perched on a peninsula in the Marina Village, Four Seasons Marina Villas at Costa Palmas offer a seamless connection to the Sea of Cortez. Here, Brendan Guerin of Guerin Glass Architects provides a firsthand view of the new private residences. BY SA MA NTHA BROOKS
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ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
520.850.3769
hunter@vonderkingcreative.com
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On the Waterf ront
Backyard Bliss
C O S TA PA L M A S H O M E
➻ The New York–based archi-
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tect Brendan Guerin has helped shape Costa Palmas’ aesthetic from the start. In 2016, he created the temporary beachfront bungalows that gave prospective buyers a taste of the future resort; later, he designed the Four Seasons hotel and condos, as well as the members’ private beach club. Now he is leading the next phase of Costa Palmas living with the design of the new Marina Villas neighborhood. “The idea for the entire Marina Village was to create something that would normally take a couple hundred years to evolve, with the villas being the residential element,” Guerin says. “Right away, you can see that the most unique element is that each has its own private dock that can accommodate a boat—or two—within just steps of the residence.” Each of the 4,000- to 6,000- square-foot residences, the first of which broke ground at the end of 2021, links to its private dock (previous pages) through a backyard that can be customized with a sunken pool, outdoor living room, outdoor kitchen with barbecue, and firepit. “The weather here mimics that of Southern California, and winter evenings can get a little bit chilly,” says David Waller, Costa Palmas’ director of development. “It’s great to be able to roast marshmallows at night and then wake up and be able to swim at the beach.”
ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
520.850.3769
hunter@vonderkingcreative.com
vonderkingcreative.com
C O S TA PA L M A S H O M E
On the Waterf ront
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ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
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The Marina Villas further Costa Palmas’ architectural vernacular in a neutral palette inspired by the desert landscape.
On the Waterf ront
Desert by Design
C O S TA PA L M A S H O M E
➻ The Marina Villas further
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Costa Palmas’ architectural vernacular, using cast concrete, rough stone, a range of stuccos, teak siding, and ceramic tile, all in a neutral palette inspired by the desert landscape. “The overall aesthetic is contemporary but very much influenced by mid-century design and what you would have seen being built in places like Palm Springs, Acapulco, and Los Angeles then,” says Guerin, who adds that the site’s four-meter elevation above the water allows for uninterrupted sea views, even when boats are parked outside. Interiors follow the mid- century influence, with lush materials in neutral hues. “We have two furnishings packages that we offer; they’re flexible for each buyer, but nothing is ever pretentious or cookie-cutter,” Waller says. “Buyers can also design their own homes, but we’ve cut out a lot of time and hassle with our own offerings—in a style that will be relevant for years to come.”
ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
520.850.3769
hunter@vonderkingcreative.com
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C O S TA PA L M A S H O M E
On the Waterf ront
AGAZINE BRANDING
TION
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ure is only for the purpose of the Recipient’s evaluation to determine its interest in the commercial exploitation of the Information. ure, sell, deal in, or otherwise use disclosed Information in any way whatsoever, including but not limited to adaptation, imitation, ther individual other than Designer, Hunter King. To continue review of this document, Recipient agrees that this Agreement shall f both parties..
nnon Dr Phoenix, AZ 85028
520.850.3769
hunter@vonderkingcreative.com
Light & Easy
vonderkingcreative.com
➻ Waller calls the versatile interiors “crisp, modern, functional, cozy, and not overly trendy.” OpFor additional information on the initial release of Four Seasons Marina Villas, contact the on-site real estate team for a presentation or email info@ costapalmas.com.
tions for four to six bedrooms, plus open living areas for a kitchen, living room, and den, provide spaces for relaxing and entertaining. “And,” adds Guerin, “we’ve maximized all of the opportunities for privacy.” Master baths have a balcony terrace that offers a quiet space over the front of the home. Elsewhere, the emphasis is on the sea and natural light. “When it came to the living areas, we modeled everything after the way people actually live,” Guerin says. “Kitchens have an open plan, and we incorporated a lot of integrated appliances along with an open bar area near the dining room.” Of course, living here also means taking full advantage of Four Seasons’ premier services. Owners have access to a director of residences, concierge services, on-site security, housekeeping, and more, all of which free up time for residents to enjoy their homes as extensions of the spectacular location. “These are really for families that like to get out and be a part of the action,” Waller says. “There’s such a wide offering of water activities you can do on the Sea of Cortez. There’s a saying that the Sea of Cortez is the world’s aquarium, and it’s all just within steps of where you can live.”
YOUR HOME. YOUR BEACH. YOUR ADVENTURE.
Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas is located on two miles of calm, swimmable beach on the spectacular Sea of Cortés. Those who call it home can become part of the Beach & Yacht Club that offers the joy of belonging and the promise of adventure in the untamed nature of the East Cape. Now is your chance to enjoy a home of elemental luxury and join us on the sea of dreams.
Turnkey residences from $2.9 million. Custom villas from $5 million. COSTAPALMAS.COM Four Seasons Resort and Residences Los Cabos at Costa Palmas™ are not owned, developed or sold by Four Seasons Hotels Limited or its affiliates (Four Seasons). The developer, Desarrolladora la Ribera, S. de R.L. de C.V., uses the Four Seasons trademarks and trade names under a license from Four Seasons Hotels Limited. The marks “FOUR SEASONS,” “FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS,” any combination thereof and the Tree Design are registered trademarks of Four Seasons Hotels Limited in Canada and U.S.A. and of Four Seasons Hotels (Barbados) Ltd. elsewhere. Renderings and maps represent an artist’s conception and may differ from the finished product. This is not an offering for sale in any jurisdiction where the project is not registered. E.&O.E. WARNING: The California Bureau of Real Estate has not examined this offering, including, but not limited to, the condition of title, the status of blanket liens on the project (if any), arrangements to assure project completion, escrow practices, control over project management, racially discriminatory practices (if any), terms, conditions, and price of the offer, control over annual assessments (if any), or the availability of water, services, utilities, or improvements. It may be advisable for you to consult an attorney or other knowledgeable professional who is familiar with real estate and development law in the country where this subdivision is situated.
COME HOME TO FOUR SEASONS. Owning a Four Seasons Private Residence at Costa Palmas opens up a world of exceptional moments—whether you choose a Private Residence on the golf course, the beach, or the marina, or design your custom Private Villa. Rest assured, we’ll make coming home to the East Cape effortless.
FOUR SEASONS BEACHFRONT PRIVATE VILLAS Artfully integrated into the rolling dunes of the East Cape, just a few steps from the inviting Sea of Cortés, Beachfront Private Villas embody the spirit of elemental luxury. Choose from a selection of home designs, engage with the Costa Palmas Home team, or bring in your own design team to create a bespoke sanctuary on the sea of dreams. A limited number of beachfront homesites are still available for purchase at Costa Palmas.
Pricing available upon request
MARINA PENINSULA PRIVATE RESIDENCES Offering scenic sights of the vibrant Marina Village, verdant golf greens and towering mountains, this collection of homes is steps from a private swimming pool and resort swimming cove. Discover how special life on the water can be, with close proximity to all of Four Seasons’ amenities and experiences, as well as easy access to the vibrant and bustling Marina Village.
2 , 3 & 4 bedrooms available | Starting from $2.9M
MARINA PRIVATE RESIDENCES Absolutely exceptional and completely private, these Residences with a view offer a perspective on luxury that is elegantly casual, textured and sophisticated. Choose from a selection of ready-to-move-in turnkey residences—each enhanced with signature services from Four Seasons, each designed to make life a true pleasure.
3 bedrooms available | Starting from $4.95M
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Made for Members ➻ THE STRICT RULES and formalities of a traditional private club wouldn’t make sense on the East Cape. Here, at Costa Palmas, it’s all about fun—creating long-lasting memories with your family and friends by exploring the range of adventure, cultural, athletic, and social activities that appeal to all ages. “I like to say that at Costa Palmas there’s something to do for everyone—whether they’re 2 or 92,” says Michael Radovan, managing director of Costa Palmas. “But you can also sit by the pool or beach and do nothing at all.” Whatever your passion, life as a member at Costa Palmas is rooted in the spectacular surroundings—made all the more enjoyable by the club’s full-service approach. “The stars of the show are the East Cape’s gorgeous setting and the caring and incredibly warm staff,” says Radovan. Benefits of Costa Palmas membership include its vertical model, whereby your parents, children, and grandchildren all become members when you do and can enjoy the club’s amenities for life. Among these is the one-of-a-kind Aventura team, which leads members on excursions that
Costa Palmas members flock to the Beach Club (left) for family fun, and when the Yacht Club (above) makes its debut in 2024, it will feature various food-andbeverage outposts, a pool and fitness center, educational activities, and more.
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explore the diverse offerings of the East Cape. Riding ATVs in the desert, spearfishing, kitesurfing, scuba diving, snorkeling, horseback riding, and visiting villages and farms are just a few of the many options. Back at Costa Palmas, the Beach Club is a hub of social activity and family fun, with its swimming pool, gym, movie theater, restaurant, bars—and beachfront pavilion with another restaurant and bar. Down the street, there’s a family sports park with a baseball field and pickleball and tennis courts. Costa Palmas’ newest amenity distinguishes the community from any other in the region: the Marina Village. This scenic spot is home to celebrity chef Nancy Silverton’s Mozza restaurant, a
store selling goods from local artisans as well as international brands, and a coffee shop. Four more restaurants are in the works, and spring will see the debut of a nightclub designed by interior architect Martin Brudnizki. Members can arrive at the village in style by boat—their own or the water taxi that travels to and from the Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas. Of course, there’s more to come at Costa Palmas, with the Yacht Club debuting at the Marina Village in 2024. The club will serve as an anchor—visually and programmatically—for the village and community at large, offering food-and-beverage outposts, a pool and fitness center, educational activities, and more. “The club mixes informal spaces for day-to-day
Costa Palmas’ forthcoming East Beach Club (left) will offer various dining venues and amenities, including an Aventura outpost that will orchestrate land- and sea-based adventures.
routines—a workout, grabbing lunch, an after- work drink—with more formal areas like an upscale dining room,” says Brendan Guerin of Guerin Glass Architects, which is leading the design of the Marina Villas. “Ultimately it will give this growing neighborhood a central place for connecting and building community for years to come.” Also in the works is the all-new East Beach & Marina Club, which will be a gateway between the sand, Sea of Cortez, and Marina Village. Currently under design, the club will provide a host of food-and-beverage venues and other amenities, including an Aventura outpost to facilitate adventures on land and at sea. All of this guarantees that the fun will never stop at Costa Palmas. —SHIVANI VORA cp
Costa Palmas Beach Club
LA CARRERA ON THE COURSE ➻ Inspired by traditional horse races in local communities (see “Rooted in the Races,” page 48), Costa Palmas’ La Carrera Invitational Golf Tournament takes place every fall at the club’s Robert Trent Jones II course. The tournament is a chance for Costa Palmas homeowners and members to gather and enjoy some friendly competition—and fantastic food and drink. The second annual La Carrera took place over Halloween weekend in 2021. Participants and their families competed, relaxed at the Four Seasons resort, and otherwise made the most out of a beautiful couple of days on the East Cape. Players competed in three six-hole matches to determine eight flight winners. These teams then took part in a “carrera” of their own, with all eight teams teeing off and teams being eliminated hole by hole until just one remained—a fast-paced stakes match reminiscent of the local horse races. —cecilia escribano
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➻ AS THE DAYLIGHT FADES, you retrace your steps in the sand, flutter kicks through the water, vistas from the yacht. You’re adrift on the Sea of Cortez, warm wind skimming your shoulders, as the seemingly candlelit shoreline and desertscape come into view. The blazing-orange Baja sunset is imminent. Still, you have time for one more dip before this idyllic day ends—and the promise of tomorrow’s adventure on the East Cape begins.
PA N T R Y S TA P L E S , CO F F E E & E SS E N T I A LS Sourced from artisans & designers throughout Mexico OPEN EVERY DAY COSTA PALMAS MARINA VILLAGE
