Costa Palmas Vol. 2

STORIES FROM THE EAST CAPE

WHERE BEDSIDE IS OCEANSIDE

Your getaway starts here. An award-winning Resort within the exclusive community of Costa Palmas on Baja’s East Cape, Four Seasons Los Cabos at Costa Palmas epitomizes laid-back luxury where spirited adventure meets blissful relaxation.

BEYOND THE HORIZON

On a three-day trek through the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, Esme Benjamin discovers a rugged side to the East Cape— and herself.

co n tents

46

NEW WAVE

Surfers have been making the pilgrimage to the East Cape for decades. Jen Murphy joins pro Matt Lindsay on a hunt for the best (and top-secret) local waves.

THE TRIUMPH OF EL TRIUNFO

At this historic town in Baja California Sur, writer Cecilia Escribano finds a past—and a present—as victorious as its name suggests.

54 IN LIVING COLOR

Costa Palmas brings on top talent for two new design-forward projects—nightclub Chiki and boutique resort residential development Casa Blake—rooting both in authenticity and luxury.

DEPARTMENTS

7 Joie de Vivre

At Delphine, Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s new beach club, the French Riviera comes to Baja California—along with plenty of rosé.

10 Par Excellence

Legendary golf architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. reveals the treasures that await at his 18-hole course at Costa Palmas Golf Club.

12 Come Sail Away

At Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club, there’s a marina full of luxe pleasure cruisers ready to take you on an exclusive Sea of Cortez sojourn.

16 Close Encounters

Getting to know the Baja California Peninsula’s largest residents, from humpback whales to orcas.

18 Hecho en México

Meet the craft artisans leading Mexico’s contemporary design scene.

22 Seeing to the Sea

For two documentary filmmakers, capturing the beauty of the Baja California Peninsula’s marine life is the first step in protecting it.

24 Natural Wonders

Ria Vogiatzi of architecture firm Elastic unveils an exclusive first look at the Amanvari Golf Villas.

63 Club Life

The latest happenings at Costa Palmas, from the debut of the first-ever Salud Wellness Retreat to the myriad ways you can give back with the Costa Palmas Foundation.

72 esCAPE

Ricardo Medina

Cecilia Escribano

COSTA PALMAS MARKETING

Costa Palmas Magazine

Jackie Caradonio EDITOR

Emily Kehe

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Hunter King

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Nikki Prange

COPY EDITOR

CONTRIBUTORS

Robin Barwick, Esme Benjamin, Mary Holland, Paul Jebara, Jen Murphy, Sarah Nechamkin, Hannah Seligson

PUBLISHED BY

Bruce Wallin bruce.wallin@candrpr.com candrpr.com

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES BY MITTERA GROUP

Set at the edge of the Sea of Cortez, Costa Palmas is a dramatic landscape, a private marina, a village to stroll, a golf course to master, and a home. Spread across the resort are organic farms, orchards and an estuary, the Beach & Yacht Club, the Marina Village, and a Robert Trent Jones Jr. golf course and club. costapalmas.com

Sailing the Sea of Cortez

BY RICARDO RAMOS

Founder’s Letter

➻ WELCOME TO THE SECOND ISSUE of Costa Palmas magazine, your inside look at Baja’s most extraordinary destination. It’s been an incredible journey to see our community grow over the last nine years, and I’m so proud of all that we have built in this spectacular piece of paradise.

As Costa Palmas continues to evolve, I’m pleased to introduce you to the people, places, and experiences that make our East Cape home so special, all of which we highlight in this issue. In our Intel section, we check in with legendary golf architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. to find out what makes his championship golf course at Costa Palmas Golf Club a thrill to play time and time again. We also hear from Michelin-star chef Ludo Lefebvre about his new Delphine Day Club and set sail on the latest luxury yachts at Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club. Diving deeper into the heart of Costa Palmas and beyond, our features take you on authentic adventures from the sea to the mountains, and introduce you to exciting new projects like Chiki, our spectacular nightclub in the heart of Marina Village, and Casa Blake, Costa Palmas’ first boutique resort residential project.

Of course, Costa Palmas is first and foremost a community, and our Club Life section shares all the special moments of the last year that have brought us together—with nature, with each other, and with our greater East Cape neighbors. The wonderful people, beautiful places, and memorable moments on these pages once again prove what I know to be true: There truly is no place like Costa Palmas.

Jason Grosfeld Chairman and CEO, Irongate Group

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DEBUTS | INSIGHTS | INSPIRATION

JOIE DE VIVRE

At Delphine, Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s new beach club in Costa Palmas, the French Riviera comes to Baja California—along with plenty of rosé. by Sarah Nechamkin

➻ Chef Ludo Lefebvre has been working in Michelin-starred kitchens since he was 14. Though he’s classically trained by French masters from Alain Passard to Guy Martin, his gregarious disposition and stack of beaded bracelets speak more to his current home of Los Angeles, where his small empire of modern fine-dining restaurants has received nods from both the James Beard Foundation and the Michelin Guide. For his latest venture, Delphine Day Club, Lefebvre is coming to Costa Palmas—and bringing fresh seaside flavors of the Côte d’Azur with him.

Perched along the Sea of Cortez, Delphine will “bring the South of France lifestyle to Costa Palmas—a real French beach club experience,” Lefebvre told Costa Palmas magazine in an interview from his home in Los Angeles. “People go to the beach club to have fun, forget all their problems, have a good day on the beach, get burnt a little bit, and dance wherever they want.”

Delphine’s classic Riviera fare will be making taste buds dance as well: Salade Niçoise, crudités, whole fish (with roasted fennel, olive oil, and saffron-infused aioli), and socca (a chickpea flour pancake served on the streets of Nice) all make an appearance on the menu. Still, says Lefebvre, “It’s nothing too fancy—just good technique and good ingredients.”

Those ingredients are key. Though the dishes themselves are undeniably French, the fresh fare behind them—from locally farmed honey to just-caught scallops—comes straight from Baja California. This isn’t the first time Lefebvre has presided over the blending of French and Mexican flavors: At his Silver Lake restaurant, Trois Familia, dishes like the beet tartare tostada and French bean burrito were a perfect marriage of national cuisines. At Delphine, you’ll find a similar union in the tequila crème brûlée. “We don’t do spicy in France, but I’m going to sprinkle some chili somewhere for just a little touch of Mexico,” he says. “I’m very excited to bring something new and different to Costa Palmas.”

Mozza’s Nancy Silverton

From Chef Ludo’s Kitchen ➻

Red Beet Gazpacho with Goat Cheese Sorbet

RED BEET GAZPACHO

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS:

1 pound red beets, scrubbed

1 plum tomato, seeded and diced

2 1/2 ounces whole-grain bread, crust trimmed, bread cut into cubes

1/3 cup shelled raw pistachios

1/2 small green bell pepper, seeded and diced

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar

(at least 8 years)

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Fleur de sel

Freshly ground black pepper

ACCOMPANIMENTS:

Goat cheese sorbet (see recipe below)

12 fresh violas

2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar (at least 8 years)

PREPARATION:

Place the beets in a large pot and add enough cold water to cover the beets. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until a skewer can easily glide through the center of each beet (about 30 minutes).

Drain the water and set the beets aside until they are cool enough to handle, then peel the beets and cut each into quarters. Combine the beets, tomatoes, bread, pistachios, bell pepper, oil, water, vinegar, and mustard in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Transfer the beet mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. If you need to, work in batches.

Season the gazpacho to taste with fleur de sel and pepper. (The gazpacho can be prepared one day ahead and kept refrigerated.)

GOAT CHEESE SORBET

MAKES ABOUT 1 1/2 CUPS

INGREDIENTS:

8 ounces goat milk

4 ounces soft fresh goat cheese

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon xanthan gum

1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

PREPARATION:

Combine the milk, cheese, sugar, and salt in a small, heavy saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking very well to blend. Using an immersion blender, gradually sprinkle the xanthan gum into the milk mixture and puree until dissolved.

Transfer the mixture to a bowl, then cover and refrigerate until very cold. Transfer the chilled goat cheese mixture to an ice-cream maker and process until thick and icy. Serve immediately.

ASSEMBLY:

Pour 1 cup of red beet gazpacho in each bowl. Top with a quenelle of goat cheese sorbet and garnish with a touch of balsamic vinegar and 2 flowers for each serving.

PAR EXCELLENCE

Robert Trent Jones Jr., legendary golf course architect and mastermind behind the championship course at Costa Palmas Golf Club, reflects on the creation of what might be the game’s most valuable hidden treasure. by Robin Barwick

Golf.com describes the Costa Palmas course as “resplendent,” and your design as “artful.” What do you think? Costa Palmas is simply one of my favorite places in the world, and we are delighted with the rave reviews. The property is remote, and once people find Costa Palmas, they fall in love with it.

How did you ensure the course would embrace its stunning natural landscape?  Golf architecture is an art form that is carried out over a broad space. Rather than impose our will on a landscape, we listen to the land and follow what it tells us. Costa Palmas has been sculpted into the natural setting, with three distinct environments, like three movements of a symphony. Golfers first head toward the sea and into the sand dunes, then they turn inland and cross the barrancas, and finally they move up into the highlands, with the mountains in the distance.

Is the course too hilly for walking golf? No, the golf course is low-lying, with gentle elevation changes, and every tee is close to the green that precedes it. Costa Palmas is an exotic answer to how the game was played 500 years ago.

What kind of golfer was Costa Palmas designed for? This course challenges golfers of all levels, as all the best courses do. Golf is a sport you can carry with you from youth to old age, and Costa Palmas gives every golfer on that journey the chance to shine. We have multiple tees to cater to different skill levels and a huge putting green for children. An insider tip is that they serve terrific ice-cream milkshakes there.

How does the course remain interesting to those who have played it many times? The strategic school of course architecture is what the Joneses do—this is what I inherited from my father. We ensure that there is more than one way to play any given hole on any given day. It engages the golfer’s mind. Golf should be a bit like playing outdoor chess, and golfers need to think ahead. Ultimately, a great golf course is where golfers come off the final green and want to book their next tee time as soon as possible.

Come Sail Away

➻ GRAB YOUR SUNSCREEN and pack your hat: At Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club, there’s a marina full of luxe pleasure cruisers ready to take you on an exclusive Sea of Cortez sojourn. Our fleet cheat sheet helps you choose the right charter for your next expedition. —SARAH NECHAMKIN

Rule No. 1

LENGTH: 130 FEET

STATEROOMS: 5 (1 PRIMARY, 2 VIP, 2 TWINS)

CREW: 7

For the boredom-averse with a taste for luxury, the Rule No. 1 offers every kind of water sport imaginable—from free diving and Jet-Skiing to Seabobbing and spearfishing—plus glamorous living spaces aplenty. Island-hop or stay water-bound all day, taking chef-prepared meals on the open-air upper deck and unwinding in the hot tub. If far-flung adventures are on your bucket list, you can easily turn your day trip into a proper cruise; the five generous staterooms accommodate up to 12 guests for overnights.

Capella

LENGTH: 116 FEET

STATEROOMS: 4 (1 PRIMARY, 1 VIP, 2 TWINS)

CREW: 7

One of only three Azimut Benetti vessels of its kind, this superyacht was built for entertaining, with an expansive open-air design plan and spacious social areas made for group gatherings. A large outdoor bar and sitting area with hot tub promise a party for up to 20 cruising guests (or 10 overnight).

Ready to explore? A tender with tons of water toys—including stand-up paddleboards and Jet Skis—is at the ready.

Out of the Night

LENGTH: 65 FEET

STATEROOMS: 3 (1 PRIMARY, 1 VIP, 1 TWIN)

CREW: 4

Sueños

LENGTH: 53 FEET

CREW: 3

True to its name, this day boat is a dream for anglers, with a large center console that allows for seamless balance even at high speeds. An expansive bow area pulls triple duty as a sun pad, dining area, and fishing platform, while inside, a queen-size berth, galley kitchen, and full bathroom offer places to rest and recover after a day at sea.

This English-built Sunseeker Predator day boat can cruise up to 35 knots for jaunts to Baja’s most remote islands. For even more adventure, a jet tender makes getting to ultra-private beaches—many inaccessible by yacht—possible. Deep-sea explorers rejoice: There’s also snorkeling and diving equipment to round out a day of seafaring pursuits for up to 12 passengers.

Tranquila

LENGTH: 35 FEET

STATEROOMS: 1 CREW: 3

The Tranquila is the “everyboat”—the ultimate yacht for everyone, whether you’re eager for a daylong fishing trip or a snorkeling jaunt amid flourishing coral reefs. Whatever floats your boat, bring up to seven of your closest friends and expect plenty of stunning vistas amidst a sunny coastal breeze.

Alamar

LENGTH: 72 FEET

STATEROOMS: 4 (1 PRIMARY, 1 VIP, 2 TWINS) CREW: 4

Live la dolce vita in Mexico on this agile pleasure cruiser designed by architect Filippo Salvetti of Italy’s top yacht builder, Ferretti. Best for day trips of up to 15 passengers, the fully equipped yacht can also accommodate eight for overnights. On board, it’s all about the open sea, with a sleek, minimalist design that includes a grand primary suite with leather details and wood paneling.

Tender Skorpios

LENGTH: 29 FEET CREW: 2

A carefree craft for adventurous snorkeling outings, this is the little yacht that can, powering up to a cruising speed of 34 knots and offering a telescopic table for up to eight passengers. For those who’d rather stay on board, a bow sun pad provides plenty of opportunity for soaking up some rays.

Skorpios

LENGTH: 54 FEET

STATEROOMS: 3 (1 PRIMARY, 1 VIP, 1 TWIN)

CREW: 3

Two sun pads, an outdoor salon, onboard snorkeling gear, and an optional tender make this zippy cruiser ideal for exploring the Sea of Cortez’s many treasures. With a capacity of 10 passengers, the Italian-built Baia yacht can reach up to 40 knots in most sea conditions, allowing it to comfortably travel 100 miles in just a few hours.

Porta Visione

LENGTH: 65 FEET

STATEROOMS: 3 (1 PRIMARY, 1 VIP, 1 TWIN)

CREW: 4

Refitted in 2023, this sleek 65-foot Ferretti accommodating up to 15 passengers beckons for ambitious day trips.

The yacht is outfitted with all the extras for undersea enthusiasts: snorkeling, scuba diving, and even spearfishing gear. Leather banquettes and smooth mahogany interiors make staying aboard perfectly luxurious too.

Close Encounters

➻ CALLING COSTA PALMAS HOME means calling the largest mammals on Earth your neighbors: The Baja California Peninsula is a haven for several species, offering protected lagoons for breeding and birthing, prey-rich waters for hunting, and a warm escape during the cold winter months up north. “Being able to exist in such close proximity to these massive animals is one of the most special things about living in the East Cape,” says Jorge Bengoa, a Baja local and expert guide for Costa Palmas’ Aventura team.

“It’s common to see them—and yet every time, it is still an amazing spectacle.”

illustration by Cassandre Montoriol

THE ORCA Commonly known as the killer whale, this toothed predator is the largest member of the oceanic dolphin family and a regular sight in the Gulf of California, no matter the season. “That’s because they hunt manta rays year-round,” Bengoa says. “They do everything here: reproducing, feeding—some of them spend their entire lives in the Sea of Cortez, so we get to know them really well.”

THE BLUE WHALE Recognizable by their enormous size and relatively small dorsal fin, blue whales migrate from colder climes for mating season and can be viewed in Loreto Bay in the Sea of Cortez (the latter of which is often referred to as “the aquarium of the world”). Sightings are possible January through May—and, Bengoa says, they are always unforgettable. “These are the biggest animals on Earth—they can reach up to nearly 100 feet long.”

THE HUMPBACK When Bengoa takes guests snorkeling or fishing in nearby Cabo Pulmo National Park, he always keeps an eye out for this majestic mammal, which migrates from Alaska for the winter season to reproduce. “Normally, they travel in groups and small families, and it’s common to see calves,” he says. “They often play on the surface, giving us an incredible view from the boat.”

Hecho en México

➻ MEXICO’S CONTEMPORARY CRAFT SCENE is a rich and colorful tapestry weaving together age-old techniques with modern design—and you can find the best of it at Costa Palmas’ Casena marketplace. A prime gateway to discovering local artisans and designers, the shop is filled with a curated collection of handmade goods and fashions, from antique-inspired jewelry to pedal-loomwoven pillows. Here are six brands to look out for on your next visit. —MARY HOLLAND

Baní

This Oaxaca-based textile atelier produces everything from statement-making dresses and tasseled handbags to decorative cushions and place mats. The common thread? It’s all woven using locally sourced, recycled cotton on pedal looms. The brainchild of textile designers Mariana Peralta Balzaretti and Fernanda B. Pérez, the brand works with a community of roughly 90 generational artisans to create pieces that are as luxe as they are distinctly Mexican.

Eduardo Sanchez

A descendant of multiple generations of jewelry makers, Mexico City–born Eduardo Sanchez studied in Florence and Paris, working with luxury jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels in the latter city. As such, his inspirations for his own highend jewelry are many, ranging from the craftsmanship of his ancestors to the art and architecture of his favorite European cities. Silver chains with jeweled skull pendants, chunky rings in oxidized silver and gold, zodiac cuff links, and earrings molded from antique coins—all of Sanchez’s pieces for men and women are handcrafted in his workshop in San José del Cabo.

Agua D’ Mar

Started by sisters Adriana and Sharon Hans, Agua D’ Mar creates a wide range of structured straw bags woven from natural fibers by artisans in Mexico City and the state of Guerrero. While the techniques and materials are purely ancestral, the pieces themselves are undeniably modern, incorporating pops of color, vibrant fringe, and even Swarovski crystal detailing.

Olivia Cerámica

La Paz–based designer and self-taught ceramicist Olivia León first fell in love with clay on a trip to Oaxaca. After much trial and error, she launched her brand in 2013, and today hand-fires playful collections of plates, vases, and cups, either unglazed or delicately finished in dreamy pastel shades and artistic motifs. Made from different clays, which León sources from all over Mexico, the one-of-a-kind pieces take on unique hues and textures reflecting the terroir.

Corazón Playero

What started as a hobby for stay-at-home mom Isabel Andrade has since grown into a full-blown accessories brand based out of San José del Cabo. Today, Corazón Playero (which translates to “beach heart”) employs an all-female team of 30 artisans who weave, stitch, and embroider hats and bags made from natural palm leaf fibers and dyed yarn. The beach-ready styles are bright and colorful, with embroidered flowers, evil eyes, and even college football team logos in colors like hot pink, lemon-yellow, and sea blue.

Pawuamba

This shoe atelier founded by a mother-daughter duo was born of a desire to create new opportunities and financial independence for women and artisans across Mexico. The brand’s earthy sandals in inky black and flax are fringed and knotted from natural local materials like jipijapa palm fiber, cotton, and linen. Every stylish piece is the result of a fair-trade agreement with allfemale embroiderers and weavers throughout the country, from Chiapas to Yucatán.

SEEING TO THE SEA

For two documentary filmmakers, capturing the beauty of the Baja California Peninsula’s marine life is only the first step in protecting it. by Hannah Seligson

This page: Marine biologist and filmmaker Erick Higuera has documented and researched orcas and oceanic giant mantas in the Baja California Peninsula. Opposite: Underwater cinematographer Johnny Friday has devoted much of his career to documenting and protecting the region’s hammerhead shark population.

➻ In the mid-1990s, filmmaker Johnny Friday used to fly small planes out of California into the Baja California Peninsula. On one of these trips, he says, he looked down and saw “a bunch of whales blowing in a lagoon.” As it turns out, he was over the San Ignacio Lagoon, one of the most remote places on Earth where gray whales can be found. The discovery was a eureka moment that inspired Friday to create Campo Cortez, a whale-watching destination and research center located on the edge of the lagoon. “The gray whales come right up to the boat like a puppy wanting to be pet,” he says.

As an underwater cinematographer, Friday has worked on National Geographic documentaries such as Great Migrations and Kings of Baja, but creating Campo Cortez has allowed him to pursue another area of his undersea passion: conservation. “The Sea of Cortez is a marine lover’s paradise, where you can find everything from dolphins to many species of whales, sharks, manta rays, and, at least for now, untouched reefs,” Friday says. Thirty years after relocating to the Baja California Peninsula, the opportunity to give visitors access to that wildlife in an environmentally responsible way feels like a fullcircle moment.

“I came down here because it was one of the top places to see hammerhead sharks,” Friday says. Alas, the number of the species has steadily declined since: “Now it probably doesn’t even make it into the top 500 places.”

That fact alone has been a major impetus in the cinematographer’s shifting focus to preservation activism. In addition to creating Campo Cortez, he has also partnered with the nonprofit Sea Watch to document the dwindling hammerhead population in hopes that his advocacy will spark government regulation to protect the species that initially drew him to Baja. The impact of saving any species, he says, cannot be underestimated. “The seas worldwide are being depleted of small fish, which means every type of marine life, all the way up to the whale population, is dwindling significantly.”

Erick Higuera is another local Baja filmmaker whose documentary projects have been a gateway to conservation efforts. While working as an underwater photographer and cinematographer, he began partnering with marine scientists to collect data on the Baja California Peninsula’s sea life.

“I started analyzing my videos and transforming them into scientific data,” says Higuera, who is also a marine biologist. His credentials in both the science and film industries have made him a double threat: his marine biology background is key to obtaining scientific permits that grant access to conduct research in marine protected areas, which he in turn films for research projects and papers, as well as educational documentaries, including a recent episode of BBC’s widely acclaimed Planet Earth III series, narrated by David Attenborough.

One of Higuera’s most impactful projects to date is a series of photographs of oceanic giant mantas that has been used to identify two different populations, one in the Revillagigedo National Park and another in the Gulf of California. The resulting report has been vital to efforts to help create protective corridors for marine wildlife, as well as codes of conduct to ensure tourist experiences are respectful of their natural habitat.

For Higuera and Friday, connecting filmmaking and environmental advocacy is the basis of a new frontier in protecting the Baja California Peninsula and beyond. “I have been documenting some of these animals, like the orca, since 2015, and it sometimes feels like growing up alongside a brother or neighbor,” Higuera says. “I feel so fortunate that I can do something to help these creatures that I’ve known for so long.”

Natural Wonders

Ria Vogiatzi of architecture firm Elastic unveils an exclusive first look at the Amanvari Golf Villas.

➻ Framed by the Sierra de la Laguna mountains and Baja’s golden sand dunes, Amanvari will soon bring a tranquil new escape to the Costa Palmas community—especially for those who call the resort’s luxurious Golf Villas home. Embodying the spirit of the Aman property’s name, which derives from the Sanskrit words for “peace” and “water,” the residences will claim an enviable location on the edge of the Costa Palmas Golf Club’s 18-hole course “in a profound connection with nature,” says Ria Vogiatzi, founder of Elastic, the Athens-based architecture firm leading the design of the homes. “The villas will serve as front-row seats to the golf course and the East Cape’s magnificent landscapes.”

Designed with east-facing exposures for maximum privacy, while remaining just steps from resort amenities such as the Costa Palmas Yacht & Beach Club and Aman Spa, the Golf Villas are true manifestations of their singular setting. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the golf course, while lush gardens and outdoor

terraces with private pools, hot tubs, and daybeds that Vogiatzi says “resemble secluded islands” reflect the coastal surroundings. Taking that seamless connection to nature even further are modern interiors with clean lines, minimalistic detailing, and sleek finishes like warm wood and subtle sandstone. All of these elements come together like brushstrokes painted on the natural canvas of the East Cape scenery.

Each of the Amanvari Golf Villas will feature four bedrooms; some will also include two additional stand-alone guesthouse casitas—all of them serving as “cocoons of exclusivity” for homeowners, says Vogiatzi.

“We intended to create havens that resonate with a wide spectrum of residents, capturing the imagination of not just golf enthusiasts but also those who value a lifestyle that perfectly balances luxury, leisure, and connection with nature.”

For more information, contact Michael Radovan, mradovan@costapalmas.com.

Overlooking the 18-hole course at Costa Palmas Golf Club, the Amanvari Golf Villas will be “cocoons of exclusivity” with panoramic views of the green and the Sea of Cortez.

Soaking up the views from the top of Baja California’s highest peak, El Picacho.

Esme Benjamin discovers a rugged side to the East Cape—and herself.

The final push to the summit of El Picacho.

➻ On a three-day trek through the Sierra de la Laguna mountains,

photography by NURIA LAGARDE

THE RATTLESNAKE IS SO still and perfectly camouflaged that we almost don’t see it.

Lurking on the edge of the trail, obscured in the shade of underbrush, it coils around itself, tongue flickering in the air. Judging by its distended middle, it’s currently in rest-and-digest mode—and, fortunately for us, too lethargic to care about sharing the trail with a few interloping hikers. Still, two more careless steps, and our adventure might have been over before it properly began.

“Aren’t they supposed to rattle their tails as a warning?” I ask, my voice slightly shaking. “Isn’t that their whole thing?”

We are only 30 minutes into a three-day trek exploring Baja California’s southernmost mountain range, the Sierra de la Laguna. Designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the 277,835-acre protected area is a sanctuary, providing fresh water to nearly 70 percent of Baja California Sur’s population, along with dozens of endemic and threatened species—including our slithering new acquaintance. Already, I can tell I’m in for an adventure.

Our goal is to summit Sierra de la Laguna’s highest peak, El Picacho, which stands at 6,507 feet above sea level and rewards hikers with views stretching from the Pacific Ocean all the way to the Sea of Cortez. Reaching the peak will be a true backcountry adventure, one that most visitors to the region never experience.

“It’s going to challenge us mentally and physically,” says Marco Peña, director of Costa Palmas’ Aventura excursions department. Peña has hiked this route on 10 separate occasions and to hear him tell it, the awe of the experience never dulls. “It’s a fantastic way to find yourself. The first time I went up the mountain I thought, ‘Why isn’t everyone doing this?’”

We cross the valley’s dry shrubland, weaving between spiny columns of cacti and dormant fruit trees awaiting the chance to blossom with spring’s first rains. Though it is technically the cool season, which runs from November through April, this part of the trail is hot and arid. In our backpacks, we carry three liters of water each, along with warm clothing, which feels somewhat preposterous in the present heat but will be essential come sundown, when temperatures can drop as low as 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

Our camping gear has been loaded onto three mules, which are currently being led by Chayo Rosas, a local park ranger, to our first campsite: a shady, palm tree–lined ravine known as Poza de Pepe. There, Peña tells me, we will find pools fed by a river so clean and clear you

Above: The mountain trails of the Sierra de la Laguna, once used for transporting livestock. Opposite: At the top of El Picacho, with views stretching from the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Cortez.

can drink from it as well as swim in it. This is the image I hold in my mind as we make our ascent into the mountains.

Soon, the terrain becomes more challenging. The scenery is surprisingly lush compared to the valley floor, with oaks and aspens that gleam green against the parched mountainside. But the soil on the trail remains bone dry. Dust dunes make uphill sections laborious and downhill sections treacherous. Spraining an ankle now would be a disaster, I think to myself, eyeing the turkey vultures circling overhead. It’s comforting to know that Peña is carrying a satellite phone, a first-aid kit, and a GPS tracker with an emergency button monitored by his team at Costa Palmas.

Plus, Peña reminds me, we are in expert hands with Rosas. His family has lived here for more than 100 years, raising and managing cattle on their ranch, El Refugio, and taking care of the reserve in various government-appointed roles. The trail we are hiking was created for the transportation of livestock before Rosas’s father, a legendary ranger named Don Catarino Rosas, began taking tourists on adventure trips to the Sierra de la Laguna shortly after it became an official biosphere reserve 30 years ago. The Rosas family has a deep understanding of these mountains, their trails, and the flora and fauna that exist here.

Four hours and many miles later, tired and covered in dust, I’m relieved to hear the sound of a rushing river. We’ve made it to the cold, clear pools of Poza de Pepe. While Peña and Rosas set up our tents, I peel off my sweaty clothes and go for a dip. The icy water is an instant tonic, soothing my sore feet and replenishing my energy.

As I towel off and pull on some warm layers, the smell of dinner wafts into my tent. I follow my nose to find Chef Alex Cocío, from the Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club, preparing sautéed vegetables, chicken, and refried beans over the campfire. After devouring as much food as my stomach will comfortably fit, I retire to my tent and, limbs heavy and mind calm, drift off to the comforting chorus of nocturnal frogs.

Opposite: The cool, clear pools at the Poza de Pepe campsite, where weary hikers can cool off with a swim. Above: Chayo Rosas, a local park ranger, transporting camping essentials on his three mules.

The following morning, we hit the trail early. It’s barely 8:30 a.m., but the sun is already scorching as we tackle the steep climb out of the ravine. Despite the heat and the lactic acid burning in our legs, there is something innately satisfying about this kind of physical feat.

“We humans like to set challenges for ourselves, and this is a constant reminder that small steps can lead to big achievements,” Peña says, somehow echoing my inner thoughts. “And no matter if you live in a mansion or a little house, coming to hike and camp out here connects to your primal instincts.”

He’s right. In the Sierra de la Laguna, everything is stripped back to simple needs and goals: Put one foot in front of the other. Stay hydrated. Don’t stray from the trail. Staying present is refreshingly easy with no distractions, no obligations, and no cell phone signal.

Later that afternoon, after a nap and pasta salad lunch at our campsite, it’s time for the final push to the summit of El Picacho and the famous views I’ve been promised. We pull on our backpacks and hike through the valley, startling a wild boar and her piglet, who disappear into the vegetation with a squeal. I’m tired and eager to reach the peak, but the trail seems never-ending, and thick tree cover makes it difficult to gauge our progress. Just as I’m starting to feel frustrated, we finally arrive at the top.

I hold my hiking poles aloft, basking in the warm glow of success. Golden light illuminates the mist-swathed mountains below. In the distance, the Pacific Ocean melts into a moody, overcast horizon. The awe of this moment makes all the effort worthwhile.

As the sun sets, we make our way back down the mountain, headlamps and moonlight illuminating our way. When we arrive back at camp, Cocío is waiting with sizzling fajitas and bowls of warm, nourishing soup. We gratefully tuck in, while Rosas—who made his first hike into these mountains at just 6 years old, with only his 8-year-old brother for company—shares tales of the trails, including a few of lost hikers and harrowing rescue missions. It’s a reminder that this place is wild, beautiful, and certainly not to be taken lightly.

The following morning, Peña and I bid Rosas, Cocío, and the mules a fond farewell, and begin to retrace our steps back through the mountains. It’s a long and arduous day, but spirits are high, and when we finally arrive back at El Refugio, I’m overcome with a mix of joy, exhaustion, and triumph. Gulping down an ice-cold Coca-Cola, I think back to our rattling surprise encounter at the very beginning of our long journey. At the time, I had wondered if perhaps it was a bad omen, but now I see it differently: In some cultures, a snake crossing your path is said to represent personal transformation. After the last three days, I believe it.

Above: A delicious meal cooked over the campfire by Chef Alex Cocío. Opposite: Views of the sunset from the summit of El Picacho.

The El Triunfo Triumph of

El Triunfo translates to “The Triumph,” and while, at first glance, this 300-person town in Baja California Sur might seem more vacant than valiant, writer Cecilia Escribano finds a past—and a present— as victorious as its name suggests.

photography by NURIA LAGARDE + STEPHEN SMITH

Throughout the 1800s, in the wake of the California Gold Rush, El Triunfo and its surrounding communities

drew miners from throughout Mexico and the United States, all looking to cash in on the region’s abundant gold and silver. In its heyday, it was the largest—and by far the most prosperous—town in Baja California Sur, a vibrant industry hub home to roughly 10,000 residents. But when the mines were shut down in 1926, most left to seek opportunities elsewhere. While the town returned to its sleepy origins, what remains has become one of the best-preserved mining towns in North America—a portal to a more wild past, when vaqueros once roamed streets quite literally paved with gold.

I had heard the legends of El Triunfo for years: its colonial architecture and Mission-style churches, and its thriving cowboy culture, which still lives on today. It always seemed a world away—eons removed—and yet, the town is just an hour away from Costa Palmas. So, when I finally made the westward drive along Highway 1, I couldn’t help but feel like I was trading worlds, the East Cape’s sparkling coastline receding in my rearview mirror, while lush mountains and dusty, wide-open roads spread out before me.

Once in El Triunfo, it didn’t take long to meet my first vaquero. Dressed in a cowboy hat, leather belt, faded blue jeans, and sandals with socks, he looked as much a part of the town’s landscape as the adobe buildings he moseyed past. His eyes blue, his face tanned and lined

Right: A replica of a mine-loaded train wagon at the Museo Ruta de Plata. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Miguel, a local vaquero; fresh cheese and compote at El Minero; one of El Triunfo’s many historic facades; authentic vaquero attire at MUVACA. Previous spread, from left: An enlazador at MUVACA; El Triunfo’s 18th-century Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe church.

with deep creases—the hard-earned marks of a cowboy’s very existence—Miguel, I discovered, had spent his entire life here. At 83 years old, he was himself a living relic of the town’s rich history.

“¿Adónde vas?” I asked him. Where are you headed? He gestured uphill. “To the ranch,” he replied in Spanish. “To give water to the cattle.” Though our exchange was brief, I immediately felt as if Miguel was a link—connecting me, an outsider, to this place so rooted in a time long before my own.

Baja’s vaqueros are direct descendants of the Spanish soldiers who arrived in the 18th century, having been granted autonomy of the region by Jesuit missionaries in exchange for protecting it. Hailing mostly from North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula, they had great ranching and agricultural skills. When the Jesuits were ousted from the land, these “soldiers of leather,” as many called them, took over. While the image of the cowboy is practically synonymous with Southwestern American culture, it was in fact the Mexican vaquero who pioneered the lifestyle. (The word “buckaroo” is the Americanization of “vaquero.”)

Today’s vaqueros live almost completely off the grid, roaming roadless ranges without passports or email addresses. It’s perhaps because of their remote living, not in spite of it, that their culture has remained so intact. Vaqueros like Miguel still travel the unpaved El Camino Real along Highway 1 by horseback, raising their livestock for subsistence.

Though it was evident to me that the best way to learn about El Triunfo’s cowboy culture was from those like Miguel, I soon found even more history—300 or so years of it, in fact—at the Museo del Vaquero de las Californias, or MUVACA. Opened in 2022, the museum is home to a treasure trove of local artifacts: saddles, traditional clothing, and beautiful examples of local tanning methods. Among the exhibits, I studied a map showing the route of the leather and tallow trade, which traveled as far as New England. In the mid-1800s, merchants in Boston even used the cowhides as currency, which they called “California banknotes.”

After watching an interactive video showing the mesmerizing courtship dances of colonial-era fandango, I stepped outside to MUVACA’s courtyard to find a dance of a different kind taking place. There, Orlando, a skilled enlazador, or roper, swirled his lasso, while explaining the art of lassoing. In his hands, the thick rope seemed to take on a life of its own—twirling, twisting, and slicing through the air as if gravity were merely a suggestion. His display of skill and passion reminded me of the heritage celebrated in the charreadas, or rodeos, originating from Mexican ranches. Inside the museum, I had just read an excerpt that seemed to explain exactly what roping meant to Orlando—and, I imagined, countless others

Lining the streets of El Triunfo with vibrant banderas for a weekend exhibition.

who call El Triunfo home: “Being a vaquero is a question of culture and tradition; it’s a matter of having it in our blood.”

My next stop was just a few steps away—the Museo Ruta de Plata, a museum dedicated to El Triunfo’s rich mining history. Established in 2018 by Christy Walton, whose family is best known for the retail chains Walmart and Sam’s Club, the museum is part of an ongoing effort to stimulate the local economy and preserve the natural resources of the broader Baja California Sur region. The idea for the museum, which is housed in an old tannery and surrounded by former mining and milling sites, came to Walton during a visit of her own. Seeing children playing on the former mining grounds inspired her to establish iAlumbra, an organization that aims to preserve El Triunfo’s distinct culture for younger generations, among other lofty missions.

At the Museo Ruta de Plata, I wandered among exhibitions that drew me deeper into El Triunfo’s history: a life-size statue of Manuel de Ocio, the first Spanish soldier to begin mining silver in the area in 1748, and interactive stations that shared stories of the silver route’s glory days. I glimpsed tools used by miners to excavate—and, with some luck, come into their fortune. In Margery’s Tea Room, the riches of those who were most successful were on display. The Victorian-style drawing room was adorned with beautifully preserved furnishings, including a Steinway piano, and other exquisite art and antiquities. On weekends, the room comes alive, with the museum welcoming guests to sip tea and nibble finger foods from original china while live music is performed.

Below: Sculptures, tools, and other artifacts on display at Museo Ruta de Plata. Opposite: The view of El Triunfo, including the iconic La Ramona chimney, from the top of El Mirador.

At El Minero, Museo Ruta de Plata’s courtyard restaurant built on the ruins of an old cantina, the culinary offerings were far more modern, though no less satisfying. “La Ramona” homemade sausage, regional cheeses accompanied with compote and honey, and a green seasonal salad with goat cheese all showcased fresh ingredients sourced from nearby ranches. (I discovered they also paired wonderfully with a local beer.) From my table, the real La Ramona—the 154-foot-tall chimney that is to El Triunfo what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris—was just in view, casting a long and graceful shadow in the afternoon sun. Completed in 1890, it was an integral part of the mineral refining process, and the final step before transporting ore, gold, and silver via steam railway throughout North America.

After lunch, I ventured up a path to the El Mirador lookout for a view over La Ramona, El Triunfo, and the surrounding mountains. Below, the narrow, cobblestoned streets connected all of El Triunfo’s historic structures. I picked out Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, the 18thcentury baroque church that miraculously endured two fires, and nearby, MUVACA, Museo Ruta de Plata, and a stone-lined alley decorated with hundreds of colorful banderas.

If I looked closely, I could see the telltale signs of modernity—the museums’ historic adobe structures freshly painted with vibrant green and blue trim. But viewed as a single frame, like an aerial postcard, it occurred to me that El Triunfo likely looked nearly the same as it did when Miguel was just a young boy, and perhaps even earlier, when this pueblo was still a thriving gold rush metropolis. Suddenly, I saw the town of legends completely differently: Not merely a vestige of the past, frozen in time, but a place that, centuries later, remains wonderfully the same in spirit—full of promise and charm for all those who visit.

Above: An interactive display at MUVACA. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Cowboy hats hang on the wall outside MUVACA; Margery’s Tea Room at Museo Ruta de Plata; a vintage car on the street in El Triunfo; a shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Surfers have been making the pilgrimage to the East Cape for decades. JEN MURPHY joins pro Matt Lindsay on a hunt for the best (and top-secret) local waves.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Nuria Lagarde

IT’S LATE MARCH, and surf season has just kicked off on Baja California’s East Cape. Reports of an incoming swell have wave-starved locals buzzing with anticipation. Matt Lindsay, the Australian founder of LUXSurf Travel (luxsurftravel.com), a San José del Cabo–based surf guiding company, picks me up from the Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas just as the morning’s first blush casts a soft glow across the cacti-studded landscape.

I have surfed along the Baja California Peninsula’s Pacific Coast before, between Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos, but as we drive along a short stretch of smooth Highway 1, Lindsay assures me this will be entirely different. We’re headed to a surf spot called Nine Palms, a gloriously long right-hand point on the other end of a dirt road so cratered that I abandon any hope of finishing my coffee. “When conditions align,” Lindsay says, “you can catch a 90-second ride.” Even in these wee hours, his excitement is contagious.

An hour later, swirls of dust settle into a thin veil across the pickup’s dashboard, beyond which an arc of golden sand is lapped by perfect sets of turquoise waves. The scene looks like a mirage. Lindsay increases the speed, leaving towering cardon cacti in our dust as we drop down to the coastline. Cell service dwindles, then disappears entirely. Wild donkeys wander the roadside.

A handful of people are already in the water at Nine Palms, dancing across perfect peeling waves. The vibe is reminiscent of Malibu—minus the throngs of surfers. Before I left, a friend had told me the East Cape feels like Cabo in the 1960s. Now I understand what he means: The rawness of this landscape is a stark contrast to the landscaped Costa Palmas we left behind.

Lindsay has brought a quiver of boards and suggests I start on a performance longboard. “This wave is slow and doesn’t have a lot of power,” he says as he coats our boards with wax. “It’s a dream for beginner and intermediate riders.” From the beach, he points out the break’s three takeoff spots and the rocks that I should use as markers in the water.

At LUXSurf Travel, Lindsay works with everyone from beginners to experienced clients like me. I’ve surfed for years but am always looking to progress my skills, and when I visit a new destination, I arrive with a beginner’s mindset. Tips—like being cautious of urchin on the rocky ocean floor—and local etiquette are invaluable in the water.

As we paddle out to the second takeoff zone, a whale shoots up a shimmery spout just a few hundred yards away. I quickly shift my attention back to the set rolling in. With a little coaching from Lindsay, I immediately catch a wave and ride it all the way to shore. I quickly decide that Nine Palms is my Goldilocks wave. The long rides and mellow takeoffs make it easy to absorb Lindsay’s pointers as I try to master the art of walking my toes to the nose of the board.

After a few hours, we paddle in for a coffee break at the area’s lone café perched on a hill above the beach. Over French-press coffee and fresh-squeezed juice (the latter a delicious blend of nopal cactus, spinach, pineapple, coconut water, and ginger), we watch the surfers below. All the while, Lindsay gushes over why the East Cape is so special.

Originally from Burleigh Heads, a wave mecca on Australia’s Gold Coast, Lindsay surfed competitively before coaching pros like Alana Blanchard and Kanoa Igarashi. He’s traveled the globe chasing waves and guiding celebrities and A-listers, such as Rob Lowe and Mark Zuckerberg. After a two-year stint in the Maldives, he relocated to Los Cabos in 2020 and fell hard for the variety of waves, laid-back lifestyle, and remote beaches that still feel undiscovered.

The East Cape is blessed with waves from late March through the end of November; in winter, the surf moves to the Pacific Coast. Unlike some hard-core surfing destinations, there are waves to satisfy every level of experience in the East Cape. “It’s an incredibly user-friendly place, unbeatable for progression,” Lindsay says, adding that he recently helped a client score his first barrel, at age 65.

Above, from left: The winding dirt road that leads to La Fortuna and epic waves; palm trees dance in the wind at La Fortuna; boards for rent at Costa Azul surf shop in Nine Palms; Matt Lindsay, the Australian founder of LUXSurf Travel.

Previous spread: Scouting the surf at Nine Palms.

Even on a weekend, the beaches of the East Cape remain crowd-free.

Opposite: Lindsay shows off his skills at La Fortuna.

Matt’s East Cape

WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, AND RENT BOARDS ALONG THE COAST

AZUL CORTÉS

This open-air Nine Palms restaurant overlooking the surf is Lindsay’s go-to spot for excellent coffee, fresh-pressed juices, and healthy breakfasts like vegan cinnamon pancakes and avocado toast.

ZAI SUSHI SURF BAR

Enjoy some of the freshest fish on the East Cape at this open-air restaurant perched above La Fortuna beach. “The sushi is so good, people make the 30-minute drive from San José del Cabo,” Lindsay says. Lunch and dinner reservations are a must.

LATERAL LA FORTUNA

This new beachfront outpost has glamping tents and the best tacos around. Lindsay’s order: Baja fish tacos and the ceviche de pescado valente.

LA FORTUNA SURF SHOP

Opened in 2023, this shop perched above the beach rents and sells boards and carries all your surf needs, from wax to fins.

Though I could easily surf Nine Palms until sunset, by late morning, we load up our boards and drive south, checking out a few not-to-be-named secret spots en route to La Fortuna, a sleepy seaside town with a handful of surf breaks. Once in the water, Lindsay shows off his dynamic surf style on the punchy, right-hand wave that breaks just off the beach. He’s a devoted shortboarder and puts on a show, throwing stylish cutbacks and popping airs.

I, on the other hand, am a bit slower to find my rhythm. To handle the faster breaks, Lindsay has me riding a shorter, more buoyant board. After a few wipeouts, I get used to the quicker pop-up and begin to feel steadier. When my arms feel like they can’t paddle another stroke, Lindsay encourages me to go for just one more wave. “I’m a big wave count guy,” he says. “I want my clients to nab as many rides as possible.”

Just then, a set looms in the distance, and Lindsay yells for me to start paddling. I repeat his tips in my head like a mantra: Eyes up. Strong strokes. Quick to my feet. When I feel the water surge beneath the board, I pop to a low crouch and zoom across the face. While longboarding is a graceful dance, this is a pure adrenaline rush—and a perfect way to end the day.

An hour later, we’re celebrating at Lateral, on the beach of La Fortuna. We chow down on ceviche and fish tacos from toes-in-the-sand seats, while Lindsay marvels how just a few years ago this town felt as off-the-grid as Nine Palms. Now, there is a new cocktail bar, and his buddy recently opened a surf shop up the road. I ask if he’s worried the East Cape will start to get too popular. He finishes off a guac-loaded chip and smiles. “This coast has so many mystery waves,” he says. “That gives me hope I’ll always be able to find an uncrowded spot—even when the secret gets out.”

Above, from left: Lindsay and the author read the waves at La Fortuna; the East Cape’s resident wild donkeys; the line-up at Nine Palms; chocolate clams at Azul Cortés.

Artist Celso Gonzalez’s enchanting murals spring forth from the walls of Chiki’s bar, corridor, and lounge.

Living In Color

Costa Palmas brings on top talent for two new design-forward projects—nightclub Chiki and boutique resort residential development Casa Blake—rooting both in luxury and authenticity.

By Paul Jebara<

For the creative minds who have sculpted Costa Palmas’ most soulful corners,

genuine connections to the Baja California landscapes always come first. That’s especially true for Martin Brudnizki, the London-based architect behind two spectacular new East Cape projects: Costa Palmas’ dramatic private nightclub Chiki and the forthcoming Casa Blake residential development.

“Authenticity is at the heart of all our projects,” Brudnizki says. “It’s crucial that a project—be it a hotel, restaurant, bar, or club—feels like it belongs to its location and adds to the wider cultural narrative.”

While his portfolio spans a wide range of hospitality projects, Brudnizki—who was recently named Hotel Designer of the Year by the UK’s House and Garden—has made a name for himself in the nightlife scene, weaving his magic from the sultry rooftop of Nubeluz by José Andrés in New York City to the decadent flourishes of London’s Annabel’s members club. Now, he’s bringing his singular vision to the East Cape, once again proving his unmatched ability to set the scene.

images courtesy douglas friedman

Chiki

A new club awaits those in the know.

Discreetly tucked away in Marina Village, just past the artisanal Casena marketplace and Mozza’s oceanfront dining pavilion, Chiki was conceived by Brudnizki as a modern spin on Mexico’s oldworld cantinas, inspired by artist Frida Kahlo’s color-soaked La Casa Azul in Mexico City and reimagined as a magnet for Costa Palmas’ cultured crowd. It’s a magical universe built around a central courtyard and garden in the spirit of traditional Mexican homes like Kahlo’s.

At the heart of Chiki is Puerto Rican artist Celso Gonzalez’s mosaics depicting tales of celestial bodies, wild spirits, and ancient folklore. According to Brudnizki, Gonzalez’s masterpiece— installed in a corridor linking the bar, lounge, and dance floor—became a pivotal chapter in Chiki’s design story, making the club a space that “truly belongs to a wider context.”

Gonzalez’s suns, moons, and mystical creatures draw guests into the prismatic bar, which, swathed in hand-woven textiles and crackle-mosaic details, feels like an intimate retreat unto itself. Overhead, a constellation of chandeliers casts an ethereal glow on patterns and polychrome details reminiscent of Mexico’s iconic alebrijes figures. Equally dreamlike are the bespoke cocktails stirred and shaken behind the bar, from the El Rey (a stately tipple featuring home-aged Santanera tequila with pink peppercorn) to the Diablito (which lives up to its fiery name with mezcal, baked pineapple, and spicy chamoy).

Opposite: Chiki’s courtyard is a vibrant reinterpretation of the traditional Mexican casita with nods to artist Frida Kahlo’s legendary La Casa Azul. Right, from top: Martin Brudnizki; the nightclub’s dazzling lounge with mosaictiled nooks.

Casa Blake

Brudnizki’s second act takes place nearby in the heart of the Marina Village.

Set across 1,500 waterfront acres with spectacular views of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains and Sea of Cortez, Casa Blake will be the first boutique residential project in Costa Palmas— and the next step in the designer’s mission to craft an authentically stylish experience. To do so, he collaborated with JSa, the acclaimed architecture firm whose projects include Mexico City’s Hotel Carlota and Chef Enrique Olvera’s Michelin-starred restaurant Pujol.

“We wanted to honor the landscape and create open space for observation of the marina and the sunset behind the mountains,” says JSa partner Benedikt Fahlbusch, echoing Brudnizki’s emphasis on nature. The result is an unconventional—yet ingenious—building shape, designed at a diagonal to maximize interaction with the landscapes and offer prime views of the sea’s endless spectacle from every window.

Inside, Brudnizki has envisioned a collection of residences, ranging from studios to three-bedroom units, many with balconies and private plunge pools, and all melding Costa Palmas’ effortless elegance with a deep reverence for the East Cape’s natural riches.

“We drew from our immediate environment and culture to ensure seamless integration,”

Above: Casa Blake takes advantage of its spectacular waterfront site with a diagonal configuration that maximizes the views.

Opposite: Brudnizki’s design sketches showcase bright yellows and Tiffany blues, along with natural materials like rattan, ceramic, and wood.

Brudnizki says. That plays out in a jubilant color palette of bright yellows, Tiffany blues, and persimmon oranges that celebrates the Sea of Cortez and the surrounding sunbaked desert. Vibrant painted concrete and chic rattan furnishings add natural materials to this colorful backdrop, while ceramic inlaid tabletops and intricately carved wooden accents combine local craft with high-style functionality.

JSa’s designs for Casa Blake’s public areas, meanwhile, were inspired by the East Cape’s desert canyons—and the Edenic springs and lagoons often found within. “Our vision was to emulate these natural retreats by crafting a courtyard that serves as a tranquil oasis, shielded from the wind and fostering a unique microclimate,” Fahlbusch says, adding that this concept extends to the design of Casa Blake’s amenities, which include a spa, fitness center, pool, garden, restaurant, and coffee bar.

It all comes together flawlessly: JSa’s organic architecture, Brudnizki’s dazzling designs, Costa Palmas’ laid-back lifestyle, and Casa Blake’s one-of-a-kind location surrounded by water. “We think of it as an integration by contrast,” Fahlbusch says. “We create a slick frame that gives Martin total freedom to create something exceptional.” And Costa Palmas takes care of the rest.

Clockwise from above: Casa Blake’s check-in lobby and resident lounge; a corner residence; the expansive pool terrace overlooking the marina.

Coming Home to Casa Blake

A blend of inspired design, casual glamour, and playful sophistication, Casa Blake will be the new soul of Costa Palmas, set on the edge of the Sea of Cortez, in the heart of the Marina Village. Breaking ground this year, it will be home to the Marina Village’s first full-ownership turnkey residences, ranging from studios (measuring 535 to 562 square feet) to three bedrooms (up to 2,388 square feet).

Casa Blake residents will find themselves in the midst of a lively community, gathering at new restaurants—including a vibrant lobby bar and the beachfront Delphine Day Club with access to the Sea of Cortez—and reveling in exclusive amenities like a spa, fitness center, and infinity pools. A dedicated arrival and check-in lobby building puts personalized service at homeowners’ fingertips. Ownership also comes with an invitation to join the Costa Palmas Beach & Yacht Club.

To learn more about becoming a part of the Casa Blake community, contact casablake@costapalmas.com or 800.319.6447.

club lif e

FAMILY | WELLNESS | COMMUNITY

ALL ACCESS

The Costa Palmas social calendar is always full. Here’s a look at the recent events that made a splash.

Swinging into Spring

In April, Costa Palmas residents, guests, and friends gathered at the Costa Palmas Golf Club for the third annual La Batalla tournament. Over the threeday weekend, contestants engaged in 36 holes of play and lively rounds of tiebreaking shoot-outs. In between, they relaxed, recovered, and indulged with massages, tequila tastings, live music, and dinners at Lucha Libre, Mozza, and Nursery.

Sunday Funday

Easter was a celebration for “everybunny” this year—especially Costa Palmas’ littlest ones, who were delighted by a pastel party hosted by the Aventura team on the Costa Palmas Golf Course. Balloons, bunny hops, picnics, and egg hunts were all part of the extravaganza, which culminated with an appearance by none other than the Easter Bunny himself.

From Sea to City

Costa Palmas hit the road, from California to Texas, with a series of events bringing the East Cape lifestyle north of the border. In April, the Sea of Cortez met the Pacific Coast at the Newport Beach International Boat Show, where Costa Palmas hosted glamorous events with partners like Clase Azul on a 130-foot yacht. Then it was on to Dallas, where the social scene included a cocktail party at the Park House members club and a trunk show at the Conservatory fashion boutique in Highland Park Village.

Take the Cake

Can a dessert change your life? On Easter weekend, James Beard Award–winning chef Nancy Silverton invited an intimate group of Costa Palmas members to her Mozza restaurant in the Marina Village to answer just that question—and the result was an emphatic yes. At the event, Silverton led a cooking class featuring some of the sweet and savory delights from her new cookbook, The Cookie That Changed My Life, including rosemary and olive-oil cakes and twice-baked croissants.

NEW BALANCE

Costa Palmas’ first-ever Salud retreat brings expert wellness to the East Cape—with more to come. by Esme Benjamin

➻ Ensconced in a nest of pillows and clutching a hunk of citrine—a yellow gemstone believed to bring success and joy—I meditate to the hum of Himalayan singing bowls and lapping waves. Eva Ullmann, cofounder of the wellness company Aureo, moves among the group of 12 students, gently stimulating our chi with tuning forks while, somewhere in the distance, a whale spurts water into the cobalt sky.

This is my introduction to Salud Wellness Retreat, Costa Palmas’ first annual well-being weekend. Over the next four days, experts from the worlds of yoga, fitness, nutrition, longevity science, skincare, bodywork, and mindfulness will share their knowledge, skills—and, in many cases, their calling—with members of the Costa Palmas community.

Of course, wellness comes naturally at Costa Palmas; simply arriving feels like a giant exhale. But that’s amplified this weekend, as my fellow attendees and I get up-close, VIP access to people like Forma Pilates founder Liana Levi—whose classes are so exclusive, the Los Angeles Times dubbed her studio “harder to get into than the Magic Castle”—and Max Lugavere, author of the New York Times bestseller Genius Foods. Over nutritious, family-style meals, Shira Barlow, M.S., R.D., tells us that eating with your non-dominant hand helps to slow down, thereby “encoding meal memories that initiate satiety cues.” During a lecture, Nike Master Trainer Joe Holder explains that, when it comes to health, knowledge is power. “Track a few things that are important,” he urges, “and

realize that the simple things add up.”

In between guided sessions, we relax with facials, acupuncture, and massages in serene beachfront cabanas, and get to know each other at social gatherings such as “Longevity Happy Hours” and live music performances.

As the weekend draws to a close, all the simple things I’ve learned—breathing, moving, eating, meditating—do start to add up. My takeaway? Wellness is a journey, and while we are all works in progress, we’re also masterpieces just as we are. Salud is an opportunity to dabble in new modalities, absorb expert perspectives, and decide for ourselves what truly makes us well.

The next Salud Wellness Retreat, slated for spring 2025, is open to all Costa Palmas members and friends. To book, speak to the Costa Palmas member services and VIP team.

Better Together

On a mission to make a better East Cape for all, Costa Palmas Foundation is opening doors and bridging communities.

➻ The Costa Palmas Foundation was founded on a simple yet powerful premise: to be a good neighbor. “We have become part of an amazing community that has been very kind and generous to us,” says Ruth Díaz, who has served as president of the nonprofit organization since 2022. “It was a natural progression for us to want to find meaningful ways to give back to them.”

Thus, in 2021, the foundation was established as “a bridge,” Díaz says, connecting the Costa Palmas development to nearby communities through a range of environmental, educational, and social initiatives. Since then, it has touched virtually every aspect of East Cape life, such as preserving natural habitats and cleaning up beaches, supporting local sports and cultural events, funding new educational programs, and expanding health care accessibility.

Critical to much of the foundation’s success, says Díaz, is the support of Costa Palmas’ residents and guests. “The outpouring of interest, whether through donations, volunteering, or getting involved in other ways, has been the key to us being able to open so many new doors.” Here, a closer look at the foundation’s recent achievements—and how you can get involved.

SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE

Collaboration plays a crucial role in establishing the Costa Palmas Foundation’s many social programs.

“We let the community guide us in determining how and where our efforts will be most beneficial,” Díaz says. Oftentimes, that comes as a request from local educators and healthcare providers in need of additional resources to meet the needs of the community at large.

Public schools throughout the East Cape have become the focus of many of the foundation’s collaborative efforts. In nearby La Ribera, the local junior high school was updated with fresh paint—including an original mural by the Mexican artist Ileana Kotasek Bonilla—plus renovated bathrooms, new desks, and other vital classroom equipment. New technology has given high school and advanced students access to higher education through a remote technical program in sustainable tourism supported by the Autonomous University

of Baja California Sur in La Paz. “We are so happy that there is now a place for local students to learn about environmentalism and tourism, and potentially pursue that field as a career one day here in the East Cape,” says Díaz.

In 2023, the foundation played an integral role in the establishment of La Ribera’s East Cape Health Center, a private clinic making widespread health care more accessible by introducing 24/7 responders to the area, along with on-site lab work, women’s reproductive care, and procedures like ultrasounds and MRIs that previously required long drives to major cities.

Other infrastructure efforts have improved local parks and sporting facilities, such as Parque Santa Cruz, a beloved public space whose transformation included new walkways, lighting, landscaping, public restrooms, and playgrounds.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFORTS

“Given the rate at which Baja is growing, it is so important for everyone to understand how to protect their environment,” says Díaz. Topping the list of priorities is turtle conservation. In conjunction with the Los Cabos municipality, the Costa Palmas Foundation monitors more than 15 miles of coastline, identifying the nests of vulnerable leatherback sea turtles and incubating the eggs until hatchlings arrive, after which locals and Costa Palmas residents and guests gather to help them return to the sea. So far, the results have been impressive: “In 2023 alone, we protected 942 nests and released more than 45,000 turtles,” says Díaz.

Other campaigns have included pop-up animal clinics to spay, neuter, and immunize household pets and stray cats and dogs, and a beach cleanup in which more than 150 volunteers—including Costa Palmas guests, residents, and employees, as well as local government representatives and citizens—participated.

SOCIAL DEVELOPMENT

Bettering the lives of those who reside throughout the East Cape—including in the towns of La Ribera, Miraflores, and Los Barriles—is an ongoing mission that spans advancement for locals of all ages. With the help of Costa Palmas employees and residents, the foundation has hosted career days for students at the local university. Public primary education has also improved with the expansion of curriculum through tele-education courses, made possible by a new computer lab. Continuing education offerings also

extend beyond school-age students, with the recent launch of free English classes, which more than 150 community members—ranging in age from 6 to upward of 50—have joined. “We are also hoping to launch programs that give aspiring students an opportunity to intern or apprentice in our own Costa Palmas community,” adds Díaz.

More community support has been lent via donation campaigns such as blanket and holiday toy drives. (The latter collected gifts for more than 150 children last year.) Other programs help locals build entrepreneurial skills and foster new talents: A knitting group in La Ribera empowers women to master a profitable trade, while sporting events that partner Costa Palmas families with local students continue to build deep and mutually beneficial bonds between the East Cape’s communities.

Get Involved

DONATE  All donations to the Costa Palmas Foundation are tax-deductible through the organization’s CAF America accreditation and fund everything from ongoing maintenance of public schools and parks to educational programs and community campaigns that benefit all ages. Donations for annual toy, food, and blanket drives are also an impactful way to lend a hand. Make a contribution by visiting fundacioncostapalmas.com/en/donate

VOLUNTEER “Even just a few hours can have a big effect,” says Díaz. Help paint a mural or clean up a local beach. Inspire students at a career day or participate in an environmental education program for children. “We can even build a volunteer experience around your interests,” adds Díaz. Find volunteer opportunities at fundacioncostapalmas.com/en/volunteer

CELEBRATE Dress up—or tee up—to make a difference by attending one of many Costa Palmas events throughout the year that supports the foundation in a big way. “Our first dinner and auction alone raised $40,000,” says Díaz. “That was a major reason why we were able to accomplish so much last year.” Other events like the annual La Batalla golf tournament and La Carrera Invitational raise valuable funds as well. Find out more by following @fundacioncostapalmas on Instagram

Opposite, from top: Volunteers release young sea turtles into the Sea of Cortez; local children at the grand reopening of Parque Santa Cruz. Left: Volunteers paint a mural at the junior high school in La Ribera.

HOME IS WHERE THE YACHT IS

When you live at Baja’s first luxury marina, your yacht is on the doorstep and the marina village is steps away: shops, Nancy Silverton’s Mozza, the Chiki Club and other delights are your neighbors. Best of all, you’ll come home to where your heart is—your very own perch on the water at Four Seasons Residences or Casa Blake.

es CAPE

➻ HOME IS HERE. For everyone: the master sailor, the avid golfer, the beach bum, the adventurer, the gourmand, the sand castle architect, and the little explorer alike. Here, on the edge of the Sea of Cortez, nuestra casa es su casa. What’s ours is yours. And every memorable moment, every meal shared, every milestone passed at our East Cape paradise becomes another chapter in our collective book of Costa Palmas. Together, we’ll fill volumes.

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