Sales: Tony Clemenger tony.clemenger@clemengermediasales.com.au
Design: Southern Bear Creative Solutions
Contributors:
Nick Edards, Jared Misic, Tony Downs, Heather Ellis, Bob Wozga, Geoff Kendall, John McLennan, Christine Fisher Keeble, Roadtrip Motorcycle Tours (UK) Keith Miller, Nigel Morris.
Photographers:
Half Light Photographic, Bob Wozga, Heather Ellis, Jared Misic, Geoff Kendall, Tony Downs, John McLennan, Christine Fisher Keeble, Nigel Morris
Australian Motorcyclist magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Level 1/397 Chapel Street, South Yarra VIC 3141, Australia.
This publication is copyright. Other than for the purposes of research, study, criticism, review, parody or satire and subject to the conditions prescribed under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted without the prior written permission of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily represent those of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. No responsibility is accepted by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd or the editor for the accuracy of any statement, opinion or advice contained in the text or advertisements. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions tailored to their own interest.
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GUEST EdiTOr
We are a quarter of the way through the 21st century and already seeing vast changes to the way we traditionally did things. the way we work has changed, physical work has given way to officebased jobs, some of now are mostly done from a home office, menial tasks have been replaced with automation. even ordering a coffee is done on your phone. Ironically, this hasn’t lessened our daily stress levels, to some degree, it has increased them. We have become used to getting results at the click of the enter button, food heated within seconds in the microwave oven and sending emails expecting an immediate response as opposed to waiting for the snail mail to be sent, delivered, read, pondered on, replied, re-sent, delivered and read. Just to get a yes or no answer. People were frightened to speak on the telephone back then too.
Print media has also seen rapid changes. In some instances, the changes are good, other instances, not so much. There is much more information available at your fingertips, however, not all of it is accurate. With the algorithms used by search engines, you could find that the wiring fault you are getting is caused by “aliens.”
The advantages of print media, ie magazines, are that material is checked for its quality, appropriateness for the intended audience, is well structured, is fact checked and above will be interesting for the reader. This of course is done by the editor and their trained staff to give the best possible quality of stories. If the magazines have poor
quality content, no one will buy them, and advertisers won’t advertise in them bringing a rapid decline in the magazine’s life. Printed magazines are tangible, you can hold them and turn a page while having a cup of coffee on a lunch break. They are also a good source of information regarding new products that are road tested by real people that ride and not just snippets copied and pasted from the products website.
The magazines also allow readers to give their input into places to visit whether it’s a day ride or longer. It’s always more accurate to get information on road conditions and places to stay in different parts of the country from someone who has been there than from a website advertising accommodation. Can always pick up an old magazine and re read it or find an article that triggered a memory. On the net, due to the amount of information stored, it is sometimes difficult to find a particular item you are looking for or you get distracted and spend half an hour looking at something else.
The magazines always need new stories about places to visit, organized rides, club rides. Not everyone will agree with your point of view and that’s just the way life works. I was recently on a short break at Byron Bay exploring the surrounds. I thought the place was brilliant with far too much to do and see in 3 days. Some I know, think Byron Bay is overrated and they’d never go back. It’s all about perspective.
Don’t be discouraged from submitting your stories to the editor. Some people can hold an audience by being animated
Congratulations to Ken rutland as Winner of issue 126 photo Competition.
Cheers for the photos Ken. You win $50. Please email: tony.clemenger@clemengermediasales.com.au for your prize.
when verbally telling a story about their ride. Others can hold an audience by writing about their experience and showing their photographs. Everyone has different talents. Also, don’t be discouraged if after showing someone what you have written they tell you “I would have written it differently.” Their style may not be engaging enough to be printed. I was told by a lecturer years ago to think outside the hexagon and look for angles to stories that others haven’t tackled. Sometimes even the mundane can be interesting or make you chuckle.
Digital has of course, the advantage that the whole magazine is in the palm of your hand. You are possibly reading this now, whether on your phone, tablet or PC. Greatest advantage of digital print is you don’t need to look for a newsagent that sells a particular publication. Recently, waiting for a flight, I noticed the majority of people were reading their phones. When in the air, they were on their devices. Some would be reading the news, some would be reading on-line magazines such as this one, some would be watching Aircraft Investigations and trying to get their offsider to watch. The magazines are already transitioning to the digital world and will probably move from written content to short video clips entertaining and keeping us up-to-date date with new products in the motorcycle world. The one thing that won’t change is the need for interesting content - People’s experiences and views.
There’s lots to see in this world with lots of differing experiences and points of view. Don’t be shy to share them.
NOW WIth NeW mOtOgp-INSpIRed aeROdyNamIc WINgLetS
Yamaha has announced key updates to supersport models aimed at further enhancing aerodynamic performance, handling and braking.
The new carbon fibre winglets not only add to the R1’s sleek, aerodynamic look, they create additional downforce for enhanced front-end feel when braking or cornering.
2025 yzF-R1 tOp FeatuReS
Q New carbon fibre aerodynamic winglets
Q New fully adjustable 43mm KYB front fork
Q New radial-mounted Brembo Stylema monobloc front calipers
Q New Brembo master cylinder
Q New seat cover texture
Q Advanced 998cc CP4 engine with crossplane crankshaft technology
Q Variable Yamaha Chip Controlled Intake (YCC-I) System
Q Lightweight titanium muffler and heat shield
Q Compact, stacked 6-speed transmission with close-ratio gearing
Q Advanced assist and slipper clutch
Q Ride-by-wire Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle (YCC-T) System
Q Six-axis Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU)
Q Lean-sensitive Brake Control (BC) System
Q Three-level Engine Brake Management (EBM) System
Q Four-level Power Delivery Mode (PWR)
Q Lean-sensitive Traction Control (TCS)
Q Four-level Slide Control System (SCS)
Q Four-level Lift Control System (LIF)
Q Three-level Launch Control System (LCS)
Q Integrated GPS data-logging enabled through Yamaha Communication Control Unit
Q Quick Shift System (QSS) with three settings
Q Slim, compact aluminium Deltabox frame
Q Dynamic Öhlins Electronic Racing Suspension (ERS)
Q Öhlins gas-charged NPX fork
Q Radial-mounted 4-piston front brake calipers with braided stainless steel lines
Q Premium 10-spoke cast magnesium wheels
Q High performance Bridgestone RS11 tyres
Q Advanced, 4.2-inch full-colour TFT display
Q Full LED lighting
Q Polished aluminium swingarm
Q Exclusive R1M colour scheme
cOLOuRS, aVaILaBILIty & pRIce
The 2025 YZF-R1 will be available in Team Yamaha Blue or Matt Black at $32,999 inc GST ride away, while the 2025 YZF-R1M will be available in Carbon Fibre at $41,499 inc GSt ride away. availability for both models will be from February 2025.
yz F-R1 m
Jett LaWR e N ce m ake S hIS t ORy at aN ahe I m 1 Supe R c ROSS
On 21st of this month, at Las Vegas Motor Speedway, Team Honda HRC Progressive rider Jett Lawrence successfully defended his premier-class SuperMotocross World Championship by racing his 2025 CRF450RWE to 1-1 moto tally and a first-overall result in the SMX Final.
Last year saw the Australian earn the first-ever SMX crown by topping two of the three rounds, and he did likewise in the series’ sophomore year. (His teammate and older brother, Hunter Lawrence, topped round 2 and finished second this evening and in the series; the two actually
tied on points, but Jett got the nod by virtue of winning two rounds to Hunter’s one.) It was a lucrative day for the Lawrence family; for winning the SuperMotocross crown, Jett earned $1 million, while Hunter took home $500,000 for second place.
Just 21 years old, Lawrence has raced for Honda’s factory team since 2021 (a year after he turned pro with the Honda-supported Factory Connection squad). In that brief four-year period, he has already collected eight professional championships, including this year’s 450 AMA Supercross title. An injury
Wa L cha
Would any year be complete without the Walcha Motorcycle Rally. It’s a great time to see bikes from tiny to bagger and riders from all walks of life. take the High road
Fri 15 Nov 2024 - Sat 16 Nov 2024
Walcha Showground 159N Derby Street
Walcha NSW 2354
Come and join us in fabulous Walcha for a weekend of great country hospitality, good times and friendly catch-ups. Throw in over 300 twists and turns on the mighty Oxley Highway, along with 590km of gravel roads for adventure riders, and you’ll experience some of the Australia’s best motorcycling country. For more information visit www.walchamotorcyclerally.com.au
prevented him from successfully defending his 2023 AMA Pro Motocross Championship this year, but he returned for the first SMX round and picked up right where he left off.
“It means a lot to the team and my family,” said Jett, a native of Landsborough, in Queensland, Australia. “It makes it extra special with Hunter getting second—I always want to see him do good. I got a good start, and he was right there—I couldn’t make any mistakes. The injury in the outdoor season wasn’t ideal, but I think I actually needed it for a little break. It’s great to get the ’25 bike its first championship; I think this just shows how much input we had in developing the bike and how good it is to race.”
Contact: Walcha Visitor Information Centre P: 02 6774 2460
E: tourism@walcha.nsw.gov.au Follow us on: Facebook & Instagram
mOtORcycLe RaLLIeS IN NOVemBeR
tRO ut Ra LLy 2023
tumut VaLLey RIdeRS mc INc.
The Tumut Valley Riders Motorcycle Club inc.are holding their 21stAnnual Trout Rally at Jounama Creek.
(About 4km est of Talbingo) opposite Talbingo turnoff
Fri 3rd, Sat 4th & Sun 5th Nov 2023
Always held 1st Saturday in November
Q Firewood & water available at site.
Q No bad attitudes, glass or cars on site.
Q Saturday night raffle. (Smoked Trout, Bike accessories, Fishing gear, etc).
Q Fishing Comp. with prizes. (Bring your fishing rod and license).
SR500 cL u B a u S t R a LI a aNNuaL cLuB RaLLy (22-24 NOV 2024)
Q Start date: Friday, 22 November 2024
Q End date: Sunday, 24 November 2024
Q Come join us for our annual, national Rally at the Bethanga
Q Recreation Reserve in north-eastern Victoria!
Q Bethanga is about 20 km east of Albury/Wodonga, making it reasonably central for NSW, ACT, and Victorian members!
Q Entry is only $15 pre-paid (in our PO Box by 25th October), or $20 on-site.
Q As usual, everyone is welcome, so feel free to bring friends & family!
Q Rally-goers from Melbourne are invited to meet at Yea at 9.00am on the Friday, to ride en masse to Bethanga (via
S aW m ILL R a LLy 2024
17th November 2024
EVENT LOCATION
Sawmill Rally will be held in the Mansfield State Forest. The nearest town is Mansfield.
Get yourself to Mansfield, proceed through town and turn right at Mt Buller-Jamieson sign. (route: C-320). Follow the signs to Mt Buller. (route: C-320) on the Mansfield - Mt Buller rd. Turn left into Carters Rd just out of the Sawmill Settlement, drive up Carters Rd and turn left at Buttercup Rd, then follow the signage.
Please obey the parking officials.
Start and finish at Buttercup camp No 4 AREA
Do not turn down Buttercup road, use road prior to reaching Sawmill settlement (Carters Rd) as you will be heading against traffic.
Q This is a B.Y.O. rally (No catering).
Q Free Tea/Coffee on arrival.
Q Presentation of Trophies on Saturday night.
Q To purchase a badge: $20 AT THE SITE. Or on www. trybooking.com/CCDCS
Q Please register attendance on trybooking.com or use the QR code below
registration on try booking will help us to book camp sites with NPWS
PRE-ORDER Badges At: TUMUT VALLEY RIDERS MC inc. P.O. BOX 583, TUMUT N.S.W. 2720
E-MAIL: tvriders@hotmail.com
Tolmie, Whitfield, and Beechworth).
Q Evening meals Friday will be available at the Bethanga Hotel and in the sports pavilion at the reserve.
Q Evening meals on Saturday, and breakfasts Saturday/Sunday will be available in the sports pavilion.
Q Saturday night entertainment: TBA
Q AGM: The Annual General Meeting will be held at 8.30am on Sunday 24th, where there will be the presentation of the 2023/2024 Annual Financial report, and an election of committee members for FY 2024/2025.
Q To download an Entry Form for the Rally, click here.
For more info, email the Club at: sr500clubau@gmail.com
EVENT SCHEDULE:
Q Carpark opens: 6.30AM
Q Breakfast: 6.30AM (Available at entrants own cost)
Q Scrutineering and sign in: 6.30AM
Q Raffle: 8.30AM
Q Riders briefing: 8.45AM
Q Ride begins at: 9.00AM
Q Lunch: Once loop is complete
RIDE:
This year ADMCC have decided to change the ride format Main loop (80km approx) + Optional mid loop extension (35km approx)
For registration, go to: www.admcc.com.au/sawmill-rally
ADRIATIC MOTO TOURS,
A European tour operator, is introducing a new tour in 2025, following the roads through some of the most legendary landscapes in the heart of Europe –Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and France. We’ll ride along the German Alpine Road, explore the famous Black Forest, detour through the Austrian and Swiss Alps, and spend time in the French Alsace region, known for its wine cultivation. This tour could easily be called The Best of Europe, and it will take place in early July 2025.
amm
WHAT DO YOU GET when you combine the last MotoGP race of the season with a motorcycle route from Barcelona to Malaga? Motorcycle excitement at its fullest!
This tour zigzags between mountain ranges and coastal roads along the Mediterranean Sea. In Valencia, IMTBIKE has reserved the best seats at the racetrack. Feel the atmosphere as fans cheer their favorite racers. Enjoy amazing hotels and savor traditional Spanish cuisine. This tour has all the elements of a fine feast. Come join us!
eNFIeLd cLaSSIc mOtO tOuRS
S
O uthe RN Spa IN
“ENFIELD CLASSIC MOTO TOURS offer trips that range from two - eight days and cover various regions of Andalucia from Almeria to Cadiz, details of which can be found on their informative website at www.enfieldclassicmototours.com
With highly experienced tour guides who have been in the area for over 30 years and their knowledge of the most breath-taking scenic roads in Southern Spain, it comes as no surprise that every review rates them 5 stars out of 5 with many guests re-booking time and time again to enjoy more thrilling trips into the mountains.
Enfield Classic Moto Tours firmly believe the routes they have chosen are some of the best biking roads in the world and they look forward to sharing these road trips with their guests!”
ceNtuRy eVeRRIde pOWeRSpORtS BatteRIeS
CENTURY BATTERIES RECENTLY UNVEILED their new range of everride Powersports batteries - combining reliability, innovation, and exceptional performance to power your next ride.
Featuring an extensive range of 42 different battery fitments, Century EverRide is available in Heavy Duty AGM sealed maintenance free (SMF), Hi Performance SMF, Maintenance Free AGM, and Conventional battery types to ensure there’s a battery to suit the majority of Powersports vehicles in Australia today.
To ensure they’ll perform at their best when you need them most, the entire EverRide range has been subjected to stringent testing to ensure they meet the standards for product performance and quality you’ve come to expect from Century Batteries. EverRide products exceeded
requirements by delivering 400+ cycles with no loss of performance and were also vibration tested to an exceptionally high standard – withstanding 7G forces for a total of 2 hours.
Better yet, all Century EverRide batteries are produced using Sulphation Reducing Technology (SRT), an additive which significantly reduces the build-up of sulphate crystals on the internal plates. Sulphation is the enemy of all lead-acid batteries – helping to maximise battery life.
With the backing of Australia’s largest battery manufacturer and a network of over 7,000 resellers across the country, Century EverRide offers a compelling range of powersports batteries which are perfectly suited to Australian conditions, whilst also providing exceptional value and dependable performance.
WhO tO cONtact? For more information on the Century EverRide powersports range, contact your local Century retailer on 13 22 87 or visit centurybatteries.com.au
NEW PrOdUCTS
6
6
6
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It’S NOt OVeR ‘tIL It’S OVeR
WORdS aNd phOtOS: – NIck edaRdS, haLF LIght phOtOgRaphIc
THE WORLD SUPERBIKE CHAMPIONSHIP
report in the previous edition of AMM brought us to the conclusion of round Five of the twelve round series.
Since then, three more rounds have run and whilst series leader Toprak Razgatlioglu, on the ever-improving RoKiT BMW Motorrad M1000RR, completely dominated Rounds Six (Autodrom Most, Czech Republic) and Seven (Autódromo Internacional do Algarve, Portimao, Portugal), winning all six races, things went a little pear-shaped in Free Practice 3 at Round Eight (Circuit de Nevers Magny-Cours, France). A fast but largely innocuous front end lose had Toprak sliding on the damp infield but clipping a
retaining wall and sustaining a chest injury that ruled him out of racing for the weekend. No racing means no points. The good news is that, despite the injury, Toprak walked away from the incident and was back at track over the weekend to support his teammate, Michael van der Mark from pitlane.
Let’s wind the clock back and have a look at the Czech and Portuguese rounds before we see how the French Round, where Razgatlioglu wasn’t the only rider to have to sit out races, changed the championship picture.
A quick reminder of the series format. Each Round consists of three races. Full length Races One and Two on Saturday and Sunday afternoon and a ten-lap Tissot
Superpole earlier in the day on Sunday. So, there’s a possibility for three wins over the course of a single weekend. And that puts a possible 62 points on the table for the victor (25pts from each full-length race, 12pts from Superpole)
Autodrom Most was a Raztgatlioglu masterclass. He was never headed in Race One, running away to a near six second win.
Beaten away from the start by Aruba. it Ducati teammates Bulga and Bautista in the Tissot Superpole Sprint Race, it only took a handful of laps for him to take
the lead and hold it to score his 50th WorldSBK victory.
Biding his time in Race Two, it was five laps before he passed Bulega and that was all she wrote. Another victory.
Bulega was strong in the early phase of Race One but faded to a disappointing, for him, sixth with independents Petrucci (Barni Spark Racing Ducati) and Iannone (GoEleven Ducati) taking the other podium positions and Bautista, starting from tenth after a penalty, did well to battle this way through to fourth aided somewhat by Alex Lowes (Kawasaki Racing Team) falling whilst the two of them were skirmishing.
Bulega and Baustista fought it out over second in the Superpole race, but it ended badly for the current World Champion with a fall from which he remounted but then retired before the chequered flag. Bulega held on for second, Lowes third and Petrucci, a real dark horse in the series now, taking fourth.
Bautista’s weekend went from bad to worse in Race Two with Petrucci going for a gap which may or may not have been there and then being forced wide into a space that was occupied by Bautista. Both went down, neither were hurt but neither remounted. Bulega got his head down for another second-place finish and Locatelli (PATA Prometeon Yamaha), not having the season he might have hoped for, would have been grateful to secure the last podium spot.
Coming away from Round Six, Razgatlioglu (303 points) had
Left: Razgatlioglu aboard his BMW
Below: Razgatlioglu and crewchief Phil Marron
extended his championship lead to sixty four points over Bulega (239pts) who held a forty point lead over his more storied team mate Bautista (199pts). Lowes on 179pts and Loca on 145pts rounded out the top five. Iannone on 86pts held a three-point lead over Petrucci as the top independent rider. This flattered Iannone a little as Petrucci had missed the Assen round as a result of nasty injuries sustained in a training accident. His comeback from which has been little short of remarkable.
Round Seven at Portimao had the races running much later in the day than usual. Still in daylight but significantly cooler than it would have been had they been run at the heat of the day.
Toprak wasn’t quite as dominant but
regardless, the wins kept coming. Race One saw Lowes and Petrucci hold the lead at various points until the final third of the race when Toprak came on through. That victory saw him equal Bautista’s record of eleven consecutive wins. Bautista looked to have found form again in Race One, falling back to thirteenth but really getting his head down to finish less than a second behind Toprak at race end. But sixth in the Superpole race and another fall, on Lap 15, in Race Two would hammer the last nail into his slim hopes of holding on to the #1 plate at the end of the season. Petrux’s third place finish jumped him ahead of Iannone, who could only manage an eighth-place result, in the independent rider placings.
Gerloff’s (Bonovo Action BMW) fourth
Above: Álvaro Bautista
Left: Bautista’s Ducati
Below left: Garrett Gerloff.
was the highlight of what so far has been a lacklustre season. Holding out Lowes, Michael van der Mark and Bulega was no mean feat.
Superpole saw Razgatlioglu take another emphatic win, and it was Petrux who scored his first ever Superpole race podium with a second-place finish. Behind him, Lowes and Van der Mark slugged it out and whilst it looked like VdM was going to finally get back on the podium, Lowes pulled off an impressive move in Turn 8 on the last lap, made it stick and crossed the line two hundredths of a second ahead of the Dutchman.
Race Two was full of moves early on, none closer than when Toprak lost part of the M1000RR’s fairing aero after he clipped the back of Alex Lowes Kawasaki
on Lap 6. The impact didn’t seem to unsettle either rider too badly although the unbalanced aero did give Razgatlioglu problems in the longer corners. There were eight lead changes during the race, and it marked the first time VdM had held a race lead since 2021 although he was unable to hold on to it and finished eighth after battling with Petrux and Rea (PATA Prometeon Yamaha). Bulega pressed on after Bautista’s fall and was just three hundredths of a second behind Razgatlioglu at the flag. Lowes was also a major beneficiary of Bautista’s crash as it elevated him to third. Iannone took out fourth, ahead of Petrux but it still wasn’t enough to regain the lead in the independent riders’ points.
Jonathan Rea continued to plug away with the R1 and Portimao has in the past been a very happy hunting ground for him but the highlight for the multiple world champion would be sixth in Race Two following on from fifteenth in race One, where his progress was hampered by a tech issue, and tenth in Superpole.
Points at the end of Round Seven saw Toprak (365 points) hold a ninetytwo-point lead over Bulega (273pts) with Bautista (223pts) dropping away and fifty points adrift of his teammate. Lowes (213pts) is still in touch for a top three series finish, Loca (155pts), Petrux (147pts), Iannone (129pts) are well adrift of the top four but still have plenty to fight for, especially Petrux and Iannone in the context of the independent riders championship.
Come lights-out at Portimao, Toprak held a new record with thirteen consecutive wins and looked untouchable and likely to run away with the series.
And then Magny-Cours happened.
The Razgatloiglu crash. He was lucky. His hit on the padded end of the
placed retaining wall saw him take the impact on the side of this body. Had it been arm, a leg or his head, the injuries could have been significantly worse. Former MotoGP and WorldSBK star Marco Melandri noted that concerns had been raised about the placement of the wall years ago although it does serve a genuine purpose, probably more for cars than bikes, to stop out of control cars re-crossing the track. The impact did mark the end of the weekend for the Turk as he was ruled medically unfit to continue. That he walked away from the crash unaided and was able to come to the pits on race days was a major relief. By the time you read this, the Cremorna round, two weeks after Magny-Cours, will be history and we’ll know if he had to miss any further rounds or, if he returns, whether his injuries have affected his riding. This piece was written just a day after the conclusion of the Magny-Cours round so his recovery timeline is unclear
but his mobility suggests that two weeks could be enough to allow him to race at Round Nine and he was quoted as saying he thought it would only take a week for him to get over the contusions.
So, with Toprak out of action, could his rivals chew into his lead? Bulega needed to capitalize more than anyone but he blew his chances of gaining ground by crashing in Race One but regrouped to win both the Superpole and full length Race Two. Race One was a major challenge for riders as the weather was very unpredictable and the tyre choice dilemma had two phases. Slicks or inters on the grid and then when to switch to full wets as the rain hammered down mid race. Early in the race, it looked like Gerloff’s choice of inters on the grid was going to put him in the box seat and he stretched out a lead of more than forty seconds but then the increasing rain caught him out and put him on the ground. He was able to remount, still
awkwardly
Right: Danilo Petrucci.
Bottom left: HRC.
Bottom right: Andrea Iannone’s front fairings.
in the lead, but he’d lost so much ground that the inevitable pit-stop for wets dropped him back to twelfth and last spot. Yep only twelve riders finished, ten didn’t. Lowes crashed whilst in leading. He remounted but then was black flagged because of loose bodywork. Rea crashed and ruled himself out of the weekend with a thumb injury. Bautista got his head down and came home second but it was Van der Mark who took out the win, giving something for BMW to smile about given their main man was sidelined. Redding (Bonovo Action BMW) gave BMW more cause for cheer by coming home fourth.
Sunday’s Superpole race, won by Bulega, was where Bautista’s weekend fell apart with a heavy crash on lap one costing him a broken rib that ruled him out of Race Two. Lowes was denied the win by fractions of a second with Petrucci and Redding fighting it out for the third step of the podium. Petrucci, who was perhaps lucky to escape penalty after a clash with Locatelli, held off the hard charging Brit but Redding would be pleased with his performance, a podium would’ve been nice but fourth was a good showing, backing up his similar finish in Race One. Vierge (HRC Honda) rounded out the top five which demonstrated that Honda have made progress this season.
Race Two was Bulega all the way with Petrucci some two seconds behind at
the flag with the following group another two seconds adrift. Gerloff scored himself a well deserved podium, his first since 2022 and his first on the BMW, and Lowes fourth place bellied an incredible mid race run by the Brit as a technical glitch dropped him to 19th on lap one and his charge back through the field was unlucky to not end on the podium but, in the end, he ran out of laps and probably ran out of tyres as well as his pace through the field would’ve cost him precious tyre wear.
At the end of the weekend, Toprak’s lead had been trimmed to fifty-five points by Bulega. Which could’ve been worse, for the Turk if Bulega hadn’t come away from Race One empty-handed. Bautista is
still in third spot but lost significant ground and is now well within range of Lowes who trails him by just eight points and is showing his best form in years. Petrucci’s consistency, he was the top point scorer of the round, sees him in fifth place in the championship and forty-six points ahead of Iannone, whose form has drifted somewhat, in the independent riders’ standings.
With four rounds to go and a decent lead in the points, Toprak is realistically still favorite to take out the championship assuming he’s back on deck for Cremorna. Bulega has impressed from the start of the season and let’s not forget that this is his first year in Superbikes having taken out World SuperSport title
Above: Jonathan Rea on his Yamaha.
Right: Michael van der Mark.
Top right: Alex Lowes.
Far right: Nicolo Bulega.
in 2023 but he’s going to need some more luck if he’s to reel in Razgatlioglu. Bautista is genuinely under threat from Lowes for third place and Petrucci is giving Barni Spark the season they deserve and looking on-course to take out the independent rider’s championship. And let’s not forget, Petrux still isn’t fully fit after his pre-Assen training accident which broke him quite badly. Looking ahead, we’re now at that point of the season where rider line-ups for next season are becoming clearer. Toprak’s intentions are still uncertain. Swirling rumours of a move to MotoGP won’t stop but the availability of seats that might appeal to him, and his manager Sofuoglu, are dwindling and if he doesn’t switch series, it’s certain that he’ll see out his contract with BMW and stay with them for 2025.
Rumours of Bautista’s retirement or departure were premature, and he’s signed with Aruba.it Ducati, alongside Bulega, for at least one more season. Bonovo Action BMW’s exit from the series left Redding and Gerloff at a loose end. Redding’s plans are still uncertain although he could end up as an independent Ducati rider as the team that fields bikes for Bonovo Action is still hoping to continue next year but with
a manufacturer switch as BMW have confirmed that the only M1000RR on track will be the BMW Motorrad team bikes. Garrett Gerloff has been confirmed to switch Puccetti Kawasaki for 2025 which could end up being a really good match. If you recall it was Puccetti where Toprak started his WorldSBK career so they can deliver with the right rider although they’ve not been able to repeat the form that they had when Toprak was their man.
Petrux has signed on for another year at Barni which will come as a surprise to no one given that he’s put Barni right back in the spotlight with regular top five finishes
along with a well-deserved handful of podiums. Vierge and Lecuona are staying with Honda and whilst the team’s not where they would want to be yet, they are definitely showing signs of improving and having the continuity that comes from sticking with the same rider lineup will be of value to them.
There you have it. An exciting record (and bone) breaking three rounds with four more to come. The last four rounds give little time for recovery with all four running across a five-week period from late September. Final round is at Jerez, final race is October 20th. And then we’ll know… amm
LET’S GO, SHALL WE?
July 2024 was a highlight on this writer’s calendar, with an invitation to the Gold Coast to test ride the new 2025 Scout range from Indian Motorcycle Australia.
Let me start with a disclaimer or spoiler alert: I’ll try my best to give you as much info about each bike as I can. As a cruiserloving, long-distance rider, these Scouts are a different breed for me—agile, fast, responsive, and at 1250cc, nothing small about these. They are built for both performance and a relaxed ride. By the end of the day, I was convinced that a
smaller, more agile motorbike might have to be added to my stable.
tOp OF the LINe: ScOut
101 aNd SpORt ScOut
The Scout 101 and Sport Scout are the flagship models, both equipped with the Limited Plus Tech package as standard. This includes extras like a touch screen display, keyless start, and a USB port. The remaining models start with the ‘Limited trim’ and can be upgraded to this package.
Among my colleagues from various
dealerships and publications, the new Scout 101 was clearly the favourite. Designed in honour of the traditional and original Scout 101, it’s a beautifully crafted design loyal to the brand. Though it wasn’t my favourite—perhaps because I only rode it on the highway out of town—I just need to spend more time with it. The reach and lean-forward position were different from my usual seated style, and I felt muscles I wasn’t used to working.
This is not just an appearance package. Top horse power, suspension, brakes, Inverted forks to name a few standouts,
makes this a bike to really tear up the road with ease.
What SetS the INdIaN ScOut 101 apaRt
1. Heritage and Legacy: The Scout 101 is a modern tribute to the original model from 1928 to 1931, celebrated for its exceptional handling, reliability, and performance.
2. Design and Aesthetics: Combines classic styling with modern elements, featuring a sleek, low-slung profile reminiscent of its predecessor but with updated materials and finishes.
3. Performance: Equipped with a powerful, modern liquid-cooled V-twin engine, offering smooth and responsive performance.
4. Advanced Technology: Incorporates advanced technology such as electronic fuel injection, modern braking systems, and updated suspension.
the ScOut BOBBeR
I love the look of Bobbers—very cool, although I’m not a huge fan of the mirror being underneath (but they can be flipped up). The Bobber blends modern performance
Left: Christine rides the Scout Classic. Right: The Super Scout. Right middle: The Scout Bobber. Bottom right: The New Scout 101.
with classic design, offering features like two-into-one pipes, a slightly larger tank, extra 5 horsepower, and lower suspension. I felt very centred on this model. It’s a compelling and the most affordable choice for riders who appreciate the classic bobber aesthetic with a slightly sinister look. The paint detail on the side of the tank is a nice touch, and my seating position was more comfortable with the Bobber.
the ScOut SpORt
The Scout Sport offers a similar riding position to the 101, with a longer reach. It differentiates itself through performance-oriented enhancements, sporty design, improved suspension and braking systems, aggressive ergonomics, advanced technology, and customisation options. These features create a more dynamic and exhilarating riding experience while maintaining the classic
Scout appeal. This model is designed for a more aggressive and sporty riding experience and, along with the 101, sits at the top of the range in both engineering and cost.
the ScOut cLaSSIc
This one has my name on it too. There’s something I love about tradition and classic lines. The colour for me is red, which got all the wolf whistles from the
public. The Scout Classic evokes the styling cues of iconic Indian motorcycles from the past, featuring flowing fenders, a teardrop fuel tank, wire-spoke wheels, and abundant chrome details.
the SupeR ScOut
I’m giving this model my award. It’s comfortable for my riding style and positioning, perfect for long-distance rides. The Super Scout shares modern features with slight variations, mainly in aesthetics. It comes with a windshield,
Above: Christine Rides the Scout Sport
Below: The 2024 range
bags, an extra seat, and is generally a more specced-out touring model. It’s a beautiful bike to ride, and I’d consider trading down from my 1800cc Vintage to this size.
IN SummaRy
The all-new Indian Scout range will tick many boxes for a variety of riders and styles, from performance enthusiasts to laid-back cruisers like me. I can see why the 101 and Scout Sport are capturing all the attention. With interchangeable accessories and upgrades that work with all models, I could have some serious fun customising anyone of these models.
For this rider, I still have a soft spot for the Classic, Bobber, and Super Scout. Look, to be honest, I just want them all. I filmed a review/story on the days experience . Here is link https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=9I7md5EchwY&t=42s
Left: The Scout Classic. Above: The Scout Super Sport. Below: Scout Classic – Sunset Red and Metallic beauty.
eLectRIFIed! urBan riding With a tWist
WORdS: NIgeL mORRIS
“SO, THE FORECAST LOOKS good, I’ve got a hall pass from the family and we need a shake down run before our weekend away next month. Wanna hit the National Park and spend a few hours in the saddle?”
Sound familiar? For many of us grabbing opportunities to slip a Sunday ride in is just the reality of life – and even a short ride is better than no ride.
Like me, my two riding buddies lead busy work and family lives and most weeks a bit of commuting is the best we can hope for. Our bikes share similar drive trains and power, although Ed’s is a dual sport and Thomas and I have sports cruisers.
With around 100 hp on tap we all have plenty of power for a trio of old blokes. Our machines are all late model bikes, so they feature a bunch of rider aids and compared to many bikes are pretty sophisticated and bristling with electronic features.
The standard Sunday ride schedule is followed. Navigate through city traffic to the designated meet up point – in our cases only 20 to 30 minutes or so each. A bit of commuting to start the
“ With around 100 hp on tap We all have plenty of poWer for a trio of old blokes. ”
day but our bikes are all renowned for being exceptionally smooth, quick off the line and we all make the most of what is otherwise boring territory.
We meet at a convenient coffee shop and carefully scrutinise all the latest mods on each other bikes. It’s been a few months since we met so all of us have some stories to tell about the latest accessories, new tyres and to hear about Ed’s big outback adventure.
With the day starting to warm up, we lock in our plan. We decide to take in a few laps of West Head National Park which is renowned for low speed limits, potholes and plenty of bumpy sections also makes a great testing ground for any motorcycle. If you can get your suspension and tyres working right here you can feel confident your bike is set
up well enough to cope with a weekend trip away.
We take every road and detour available to us and settle into our groove warming up our tyres and listening for rattles or anything untoward. Before long, a quieter section featuring a series of nicely cambered tight bends see’s the pace quicken with a hint of youthful abandon, if you know what I mean. A big smile spontaneously emerges inside my helmet, my adrenaline is flowing the world has faded into the background and I’m back, baby. “Damn, I love riding, why don’t I get out more?” I think to myself.
We head through the lower section of the park along the water enjoying the day, taking in the sound of the bush and nodding to other riders sharing our vibe. The road then starts to climb up the hill
side with some great 25kmh and 35kmh bends, perfect territory for the virtually linear 85ftlb torque curves our bikes have.
As every motorcyclist knows, precise throttle control and linear power delivery is the key to predictable, smile inducing fun and we can all flip modes to program throttle response. Out of all the 40 + bikes I’ve owned, nothing comes close to my current ride in terms of predictable power delivery and my tyres are working sensationally.
We hit the 80km section up to West Head and fortunately, its reasonably quiet. Our bikes are all a bit on the porky side at 250kg so we aren’t going to pass any virile R1 riders on a mission, but in this section full of long sweepers the inherent stability of heavier bikes works to our advantage. We know the road well and carefully choose the right locations to roll in to our favourite corners at appropriate speed and drive out hard and fast enough to start feeling the tyres working.
Despite our plumpness, the unique drive trains we all share will propel us to 100kmh in around 3 seconds, so you have to have your wits about you and Waze warnings fully engaged.
With a photo stop or two we complete our lap and head back to Akuna Bay for breakfast returning down the same tight and bumpy uphill section we revelled in, this time working the braking capability of our bikes much harder. I have mine set up so that I can literally roll off the throttle with a superbly progressive “engine braking” feel that washes off a lot of speed, only reaching for my brake lever into aggressive corners.
The rest of our ride day follows the standard course of events that any bunch of mates on motorcycles experience. Good friends, some adrenaline and a shared passion for two wheels no matter where, what or how you ride.
There is of course one subtle and unique difference in our case and it’s that we are all riding fully electric bikes. Ed’s ride is an Italian Energica Experia dual sport and Thomas and I both ride
“ despite our plumpness, the unique drive trains We all share Will propel us to 100kmh in around 3 seconds, so you have to have your Wits about you. ”
the juxtaposition on two wheels otherwise known as a Harley Davidson Livewire.
Whilst long distance high kilometre travelling is challenging on our bikes, it’s entirely possible as Ed has proven many times on his adventures. But where they shine is in the real world for most average riders.
Commuting is of course the perfect territory for electrics with their gearboxless power delivery, inobtrusive nature and a range of more than 250km. And a spirited 85 km Sunday ride like we did will get you home with more than half a tank to spare and a fuel bill of about $1.50.
My buddies and I get away for weekend rides a few times a year and typically cover 700-800km on a typical trip. We spend a bit more time talking crap at charging stations rather than petrol stations, but outside that it’s the same experience.
Electrics motorcycles aren’t everyone’s cup of tea but if you are an average human, keep an eye on this space because the technology is getting better almost every day and ultimately, they provide the same good times as any other bike. amm
The Pando Moto SHELL UH03 base layer shirt can be worn instead of your bulky hot motorcycle jacket for cool summer riding.
aRmOuRed BaSe LayeR ShIRt:
is this the solution to safe and
Cool summer riding?
WORdS aNd phOtOS: heatheR eLLIS
WITH ARMOUR AND ABRASIVE resistance
already part of safety-rated motorcycle jackets, under what circumstances would you consider an armoured base layer shirt? The answer lies when riding on a hot summer day when you’re drenched in sweat. And in city traffic you pray for a string of green lights otherwise you’ll turn into a melted blob. Or worse, you live in the warmer states, and you’ve ditched safety long ago in favour of a T-shirt. Last summer, I bought a light-weight textile jacket in a bid to beat sweaty summer riding. But even with this jacket unzipped and all panels open, being synthetic, it was about as breathable as a plastic bag. So when European-founded brand Pando Moto asked if I’d review their SHELL UH03 unisex armoured base layer shirt, I knew I was onto a good thing. Not only would I have a cool ride, but this could well be my solution to armouring up my beloved vintage Belstaff waxed cotton jacket with its thin, almost non-existent, padding on elbow and shoulders. And it has no back protector and no panel to insert one. With summer fast approaching and predictions it will be a hot one, an armoured base layer shirt may well be the solution to safe and cool summer riding. Reading up on armoured-base layer shirts, our American friends are all over this latest trend in motorcycle protective
riding gear with a growing following here in Oz, especially in our northern warmer states. The idea is the base layer replaces your jacket and you’d either wear it alone or with a T-shirt, a flannel, hoodie (depending on the temp.), or a cotton long sleeve shirt over the top.
The Pando Moto base layer shirt is AA rated and this second highest level
of protection is well suited for touring riders with a relatively high abrasion resistance so says the AA rated classification. For me, I can see the base layer shirt my go to for my occasional commute into Melbourne in summer. On longer rides, and especially while zipping through the corners on Victoria’s mountain roads, I personally would feel safer in an armoured motorcycle jacket. But this is just because the Pando is so light, I’m kinda not convinced I’d be protected in a slide: I just have to trust the specs and the many crash test reports posted by riders on the Pando Moto website.
For those riders from warmer northern states and especially the tropics, who prefer to stay cool rather than opt for any type of protection at all, an armoured base layer is better than nothing. But the Pando Moto SHELL UH03 is far from nothing. It offers impact and abrasive protection, without the weight of a motorcycle jacket. It is reinforced where it counts on arms and back with BALISTEX stretch fabric, which is apparently 15 times stronger than steel and keeps armour in place. The shirt is also long and I love that it fits down over the top of my hips and doesn’t ride up.
A snug fit is critical and I opted for a size Medium in the unisex shirt even though the sizing chart recommended I order the size Large. A snug fit is
at 165cm (5’5) and 67kg, the Size M fits me perfectly. In unisex sizes (which are actually designed for men), I’m usually a Small, but the Pando Moto base layer shirt would have been too tight. The sleeves, however; are way too long, which means the armour doesn’t align with my elbows and sits low on my forearms. It also means the thumb tags, which stop the sleeves riding up, are way too big, but this is easily fixed with a sewing alteration. For the guys, the sleeves and thumb tags would be perfect. Unisex sizes are really men’s sizes and men have longer arms than women. It just means dusting off my sewing machine to do a slight adjustment. I could have opted for the women’s base layer body suit, which has those fiddley clasps you do up at the crotch. The sleeves would then be the right length for me and the elbow armour would sit where it should be, on my elbows. But I really don’t want to relive the 1980s body suit era every time I want to pee!
The elbow and shoulder armour is SAS-TEC TripleFlex CE Level 1, and while it is thin and feels flimsy, it has an AA level of impact protection. The secret to this armour, which moulds to you via your body heat, uses carved tetrapod-like studs to absorb and dissipate impact energy. The back armour is sold separately, which is baffling unless you opt to use the back
Although, it might not fit in the panel, as the Pando Quatroflex back armour is quiet narrow. This high tech armour including the shoulders and elbows makes the base layer nearly invisible under your shirt and is so light-weight it feels like you’re not wearing any armour at all. A few of my motorcycle mates (guys and gals), join the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride every year, but with a Pando armoured base layer under their tweed suits, no one would know. It’s that light.
However, you do sacrifice the highest level of impact protection and I know all about how that feels! I recently hit the ground hard on my chest while riding a dirt bike, but fortunately I was wearing motocross armour. And while it made me look like Robo Cop, I survived with just a few bruises and sore ribs. But while I’m still feeling the aftershocks, it would have been far worse if I’d only been wearing the Pando base layer under my motocross jersey as there’s no chest protector. So maybe it’s not the best choice for off-road riding unless you add a chest protector over the top. Most of the guys on that ride when I stacked it, wore no armour at all so something like the nearly invisible Pando Moto base layer might be an option for those riders who reckon they never come off and armour is only for amateurs.
At the time of writing, it was still rather chilly down here in Victoria so I didn’t get to test out the Pando armoured base layer on a hot day, but with its lighter Spandex panels on the sides under the arms and abrasion protection everywhere else, I can tell it’s well ventilated and would keep me cool. The Pando blurb boosts that the bi-stretch fabric, which keeps armour snuggly in place, is also highly heat-conducting so it moves heat away from your body quickly
for maximum breathability. But it’s black and that means it would suck up heat like a lizard drinking when you’re stopped at the lights. To reflect the heat, I’ll wear a light coloured cotton shirt over the top on those hot summer days. For instant air conditioning, you can also pour a bit of water down your front or tie a wet bandana around your neck. Once moving, the air flow will keep you delightfully cool and fresh. I’ll wear a wicking fabric top under the base layer, which won’t leave me soaked in sweat and my own l’odeur, when I pull up for lunch or reach my destination and peel off the body armour shirt.
I’m in the early days of planning my South American motorcycle adventure, and I can see the Pando base layer with a collared hiking shirt over the top being my go to when the riding gets hot such as in the Atacama Desert and the tropics of Central America. I’ll still have my bulky adventure jacket with its thermal liner and water proof layer for when temperatures drop in places like Patagonia or riding over the Andes. But with the light-weight Pando Moto armoured base layer shirt underneath, I’ll also have another layer of protection.
Ben Buckler Boards is the official australian distributor of Pando Moto protective motorcycle gear. www.benbucklerboards.com.au
The Pando Moto SHELL UH03 unisex armoured base layer shirt (back armour sold separately): $469 or the women’s body suit: $519
Pando Quatroflex back armour: $89 Visit www.pandomoto.com for their full range of motorcycle protective gear including jackets, jeans, armoured base layers, boots and more… (check out the crash test reports posted by riders who have slid down the road in Pando gear).
Heather Ellis is the author of the two bestselling motorcycle travel books: Ubuntu: One Woman’s Motorcycle OdysseyAcrossAfrica and Timeless On The Silk Road. To read more about Heather and to purchase her books visit: www.heather-ellis.com or Amazon. amm
TOUR DATES
SEP 6 - 21, 2025
SEP 22 - OCT 7
COUNTRIES
Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey
ONe Bad accIdeNt
OFFICERS FROM THE MAjOR Crash Investigation Section are seeking information regarding a serious crash in Waeel, between Meckering and Cunderdin, today, Sunday 8 September 2024.
Hello team , I am writing this email about the Navman write up in the latest copy of your great magazine and wish to share a near death experience I had because a stupid peanut driver .
I was heading home after a very pleasant day riding in the countryside on my beloved Ducati DS1000 SuperSport. I’d had the bike from new and it was now 10 years old and I clicked over 20,000 kms on the odometer.
During this ride, I was heading home along Great Northern Highway towards Midland in WA, stuck in a long line of very slow-moving traffic due to a very ignorant car and caravan set up that was dawdling along doing around 70kms per hour in a 110kmh zone. This couple were completely oblivious to the line of traffic behind them and didn’t even appear to care either.
Just outside of the town of Bullsbrook, there was a long overtaking lane , so me and about five other cars took our chance to use and get around the slow-moving car and caravan.
As the six of us are starting to overtake the car and caravan and I was going about 80kph, when the two cars in front of me decided to stop in the overtaking lane leaving me with little time to react and swerve to miss the rear of the second car without being cleaned up by the line of traffic in the normal traffic lane!
WORdS aNd ImageS: tONy dOWNS
Well, I clipped the rear left-hand side of the second car which caused me and the bike to virtually do a somersault due to the impact with the now two stationary cars.
I got thrown from my machine and went face first into the bitumen and finished up in a twisted heap on the road. In the milliseconds that past, my thoughts turned to the possibility of being run over by the cars that were following me and that was going to be the end.
Thankfully the car following me saw the two cars brake lights come on and had started braking, but they ended up about five feet from my body lying on the highway. Thank goodness for that!
In the commotion that followed one of the drivers showed up and asked, “So, is he dead or what?” When I informed her I was alive but badly injured, and we were told the police and ambulance were on their way, she left without giving her details or anyone getting her car rego etc.
I suffered two broken fingers on my left hand , all my fingers in both hands
were dislocated when I went face first into the road, both my knees suffered bad damage from when I hit the bitumen, and I suffered soft tissue nerve damage in my arms and legs and couldn’t walk unassisted for 6 weeks.
It could have been a lot worse had I not been wearing the proper riding gear, which saved me from very serious skin damage from being scraped along the bitumen, and if I wasn’t wearing a fullface helmet, my face would have been ripped off.
This accident put me off riding for four years, and I still get very anxious when I am following cars in overtaking lanes, which I now try to avoid doing if possible.
A footnote to this story, while I was lying in a heap on the road with the first responders looking out for my safety, I asked the one of the drivers why they stopped in an overtaking lane.
Their response was, “We missed our turn off and wanted to do a u turn”.
Goes to show there are some real ignorant people out on the road.
IF It’S gOt WheeLS, RIde It
ANEW-TO-ME MOTORCYCLE WAS RECENTLY purchased from Newcastle dealer, a plan was soon hatched to
retrieve it with a road trip and a friend.
Lovely other suggested I trailer it, to which I replied, “If it’s got wheels I’m riding it”
Contracts were sorted, or, so I thought and the wheels were in motion.
“ haven’t you seen Weather? ”
A few days in my lovely other asked, “Can you freight it?” and again I replied, “It’s got wheels babe, I’m riding home”.
Unsure if she was worried I’d get lost, lonely or squashed - I could not be convinced.
Upon picking up my retired friend I noticed he’d not bought a helmet, jacket or pants to share the riding as discussed. “Haven’t you seen weather?” he replied.
Within my darling’s sporty diesel wagon, we left Albury and with a 1100km range, fuel stops were not required. All good….
Until the dealer rang near
Goulburn and said the finance hadn’t settled yet. But, we’d booked accommodation and it was too late and we were on a mission!
To solve I had to sign an amended contract on the roadside as I’d added warranty, resend and hope for the best.
Arrived at dealer at 3 pm and we were good to go, salesmen asked where our trailer was parked as he knew we were from out of town, I replied again, “If it’s got wheels I’m riding it”.
Overnight stop in Goulburn about 90 kms; dinner, laundered wet clothes and listened to rain all night.
Early start Friday a 560km day
WORdS aNd ImageS: JaRed mISIc
heading south, heavy rains zero visibility, bulk traffic and vehicle debri on the M1 meant the only piece of riding in twenty plus years that’s really worried me. Compared, the Sydney tunnel is a welcome relief.
Rained until Kiama, saw blue skies for about three minutes and it started again.
Oysters for lunch in Batemans Bay for my fourth time in four years and onto Narooma for the night.
Local news showed sand bagging and suggested do not travel unless you have to, but with a birthday dinner booked Saturday night, riding the storm out (pardon the pun) wasn’t an option.
Saturday morning about a 460 km day saw heavy duty garbage bags purchased for under touring jacket and pants.
I also doubled them up.
Retired friend asked, “Show me how to drive the heater in lovely other’s car?” To which I mumbled, “I doubt I’ll invite you again”
Set off for Kosciusko direction, water taking thirteen minutes to reach every part of my body.
Coming into Cooma, about a third of the way home, I thought, “Will I stop shaking and will I ever ride again?” (In the end turns out I rode the Sunday, Wednesday and Friday after my adventure was over).
Spotted the highway patrol near Browns Mountain, but with my confidence in wet weather on a new-to-me bike I doubt I topped out the 60 kmh posted limit.
Retired friend in the diesel wagon was faster than me over Kosciusko, finally saw sun almost in Tumut, and the world was a better place.
With a splash of fuel in Tarcutta I was on the home straight.
Home early arvo safe,1100kms on the new-to-me bike, wet and cold when a few thoughts come to mind:
Q Weather apps are optional
Q Trailers are for fire wood
Q Memories are not made by sitting on your hands
Q If it’s got wheels, ride it.
Over and out. amm
deVIL WIpeS Bugs Be gone With
WITH SPRING AND SUMMER in southern states, comes bugs… lots of bugs. riders in the north, no doubt, deal with bugs year round. and there is nothing worse than the ooze of a splattered bug and/or the specs of lots of bugs on your visor. My answer to this dilemma was pulling into a servo and using the dirty windscreen water and then wiping my visor dry with paper handtowel, which may or may not be available. I won’t even think about how many tiny scratches I’ve put in my Shoei helmet visor in the process. A replacement, by the way, costs $110.
Devil Wipes founder and rider Mick Spiller did the same until he thought there had to be a better way. So when he sent me the gift of four packs of Devil Wipes, cleaning my visor would now be instant (no putting up with bugs until I passed a servo); actually do the job properly; and not damage my visor. Each handy slim resealable pack of eight wipes fits snuggly inside my jacket. And at around 70 cents per wipe you can reuse depending on how many squashed bugs you’ve wiped off your visor. The secret to Devil Wipes is the non-woven porous fabric soaked in de-ionized water. The wipes are safe for use on poly carbonate and tinted lenses and don’t contain chemical cleaners and are free of abrasive, alcohol, ammonia, and petrochemicals. So no smears either. And to honour the ‘Devil’ name, 10 cents from each pack is donated to Save the Tasmanian Devil Program.
Devil Wipes are only a temporary fix to cleaning a dirty visor so once home, you still need to wash your visor with a soft cloth and mild soapy water and rinse with clean water.
WhO tO cONtact?
You can buy Devil Wipes online at: www.devilwipes.com Or ask at your local motorcycle shop.
hIppO haNdS mOtORcycLe haNd cOVeRS:
the solution to Cold hands and Wet gloves for touring riders and Commuters
WORdS aNd phOtOS: heatheR eLLIS
MOTORCYCLE HAND
COVERS OR muffs as these are often called, saved my hands from freezing winds and icy rain while working as a motorcycle courier in London in the mid 1990s. Despatch riding was how I topped up my travel funds after my ride through Africa on my Yamaha TT600. Fast forward to 2024 and while I ride year round in Victoria and sometimes in rain, which means wet gloves, I don’t use muffs. this is because getting caught in a downpour only happens occasionally, and once home, I can
Above: Hippo Hands ‘Backcountry’ has a sturdy waterproof outer shell but need to be fitted over hand guard protectors like Barkbusters.
Left: Hand covers saved my hands from freezing rain and icy winds while working as a London despatch rider in the mid 1990s.
dry out my gloves before my next ride. But when touring in Oz or on an overseas motorcycle adventure, this is not always possible. and no matter how high the waterproof rating, all gloves will get wet in a torrential down pour or hours of riding in rain. If you’ve found a pair that stays dry, please let me know. Water gets in and saturates gloves eventually. and wet gloves mean cold hands.
In London, my handlebar muffs kept my hands, encased in winter gloves, warm and dry during the year I was a despatch rider including a long wet and very cold winter. I can’t remember the brand I used back then, but today there are many brands selling various styles to suit different bikes and riding styles. I was recently asked to try out a pair of Hippo Hands ‘Backcountry’ motorcycle hand covers and what impressed me
Right: Hippo Hands ‘Backcountry’ has padded insulation and a narrow opening to keep hands warm and dry, but aren’t too bulky for standing up when riding off road. Middle right: Hippo Hands come in 3 different sizes. Bottom right: The Backcountry features a front reflective panel for higher visibility in low light situations.
at first was how light weight but robust these are. Hippo Hands is a US brand and have been around since the 1970s. It all started when founder Craig Vetter, while on a long chilly ride with freezing hands, wrapped his sleeping bag around his handlebars using duct tape. Today, there are three models Rogue, Alcan and Backcountry, all for different climatic conditions, bikes and riding styles. All are black and need to be fitted over handlebar guards such as Barkbusters, which secures the muffs in place with several velco attachments. This makes fitting and removal quick and easy. The smaller Backcountry model, with reflective panels on the front, is best suited to enduro, mid-sized adventure, dirt bikes, Harleys and commuters. The 23cm depth, means you can easily stand up with the muffs not getting in the way while riding off-road.
I’m in the early days of planning my South America motorcycle adventure, and was recently chatting to a friend who had just returned from her own solo ride from Peru to Argentina. ‘I wish I had a set of those in Patagonia,’ she’d replied when I told her I was reviewing the Hippo Hands hand covers. Icy winds and freezing rain are all part of an adventure ride in the far south of South America, even in summer, she told me. While the muffs are light, these are rather bulky, and when I reached warmer climes further north, I’d need to be strategic about packing in the bottom of my panniers. Space is at a premium on any adventure ride.
Remembering my courier days during a London winter, muffs don’t really keep your hands toasty warm at slow speeds. Cold air is still going to circulate inside the opening as the Hippo Hands Backcountry doesn’t have a cuff like the Alcan model so I’ll still definitely need winter gloves. But combined with heated gloves or heated grips, you’d be very toasty indeed while touring. It’s at highway speeds when muffs work best to cut down wind chill. But, by far the biggest advantage of muffs is keeping gloves dry when it’s raining. Wet gloves mean cold hands and wet gloves take ages to dry out. While touring or on an overseas motorcycle adventure, you may not always have somewhere
to dry gloves for the next day’s ride. All Hippo Hands models have a waterproof outer shell with layer of padded insulation inside. The Backcountry is the smallest model (23cm length), with a narrow flat opening, so rain is not getting in easily, but you can still see the controls. But water will run down your arms and into your gloves if not tucked into your jacket. The thing I also like about the Backcountry model is it feels very sturdy like it would stand up to a few tumbles and being bashed against branches on narrow dirt tracks. The Hippo Hands Backcountry even kinda fits in with the
bike. But muffs aren’t something I’d have as a permanent fixture on my everyday bike unless life suddenly went pair-sharped and I found myself as a door dasher. However, for touring over several days or weeks when rain was expected and when on an overseas motorcycle adventure that can last months to years, I’d definitely pack my new set of Hippo Hands.
Hippo Hands Backcountry hand covers retail for $249.95 www.hippohands.com and click on the link for australian orders
amm
FaLcON LeatheR aVIatOR Jacket and Boss-dyn-01Jeans
WORdS aNd ImageS: BOB WOzga
RECENTLY, I WAS PRIVILEGED enough to be given a pair of Boss-Dyn-01jeans and a Falcon Leather Aviator jacket supplied by Pando Moto, an apparel company based in Lithuania.
Don’t be misguided by the fact that Lithuania was part of the old Soviet Union and so the style and quality will be second or third rate. They are a leading motorcycle brand in Europe. Their origins go back to 1936 where riders were hard and their pants and
jackets were harder, Pando has used European design and engineering to create premium motorcycle clothing concentrating on safety, quality and durability. They cover everything from gloves to boots, armor and everything in between.
When opening the box, my first impression of the jeans and aviator jacket was the weight. They are heavier than my usual jeans and jacket I usually wear. The Boss-Dyn-01 jeans are heavy good quality
denim with solid stitching. They come with padded inserts for the knees and thighs and when fitted into their pockets, they don’t protrude making you look like you’re wearing floaties about to go into the Bondi surf for the first time. They have a European style, and I found them to be a very comfortable fit. Some riding jeans I’ve tried in the past just didn’t fit right, sag where they shouldn’t sag and length that seemed too short. The outer layer of the jeans is made of Cordura Denim which is a blend of military grade nylon, 606 staple fiber and cotton. The inner lining is made of ultra- high molecular weight polyethylene which is light weight but extremely strong.
The material has been thoroughly tested and given a AAA rating which gives you a drag time of 6.7 seconds or 71 metres whichever comes first. That is a long way to skid along the Hume Highway. I must admit that I wasn’t prepared to test and prove otherwise. I will confirm that they are very comfortable, deep pockets, being stretch jeans, they don’t deform after riding for a day, and I didn’t feel any uncomfortable temperature changes in my legs with wind chill when riding from Sydney to the Southern highlands where the temp changed 6 or 7 degrees. This makes them a good year-round pair of jeans to wear.
The Falcon Leather Aviator Jacket is again a heavier motorcycle jacket that I’m used to wearing but is very comfortable and fits well with a good length of sleeve and the rib around the neck does not choke when zipped right up. The Aviator Jacket may seem a little old school, but it still looks cool. Tailored from 1.12mm goat semi-aniline leather that makes it very durable and soft enough that it doesn’t hinder movement while riding and the oil content in the goat leather gives it water resistant properties. The jacket is stylish enough to be worn anywhere and the quality of the jacket is evident as soon as I unpacked it from the box. The side pockets are deep and easy to zip and unzip. The inner waterproof pocket could be a little bigger to fit your wallet and phone. An inner quilted liner unzips easily and is only a vest, this is a good thing and prevents your hands getting trapped, pulling the arms out if they are damp. With and without the inner liner, I didn’t feel any uncomfortable wind chill on the expressway with the temperature change riding to or from the Southern Highlands. The jacket comes with ultra-thin elbow and
shoulder armor that does not protrude and the back has pockets for optional Quatroflex Motorcycle Back Armor. It is recommended to purchase the back armor for extra protection if you happen to skid along the Hume. The Jacket has a AA rating which gives it a drag distance of 35m or 4 second drag time. I was not prepared to do a crash test to prove them wrong. The jacket is breathable enough to make it ideal for both summer and winter riding.
I was impressed with the quality and fit and style of both the Boss -Dyn-01 Jeans and the Falcon Leather Aviator Jackets. A lot of thought has been put into producing a product that focuses on the delivery of high- performance protective clothing for motorcycle riders.
Both the jeans and jacket have come with the option to extend the warranty to 3 years and can be accessed by
scanning the QR code that come with the product tags.
They produce protective gear for both male and females.
Pando products can be purchased online at https://pandomoto.com/ products/all/men/?gender=men
Their website is easy to follow and has made the arduous task measuring sizes simple, alleviating the frustration of sending back clothes that don’t fit.
The Australian distributer is https:// www.motoest.com.au/collections/ pando-moto
Boss-Dyn-01 jeans retail for $351.00
Falcon Leather Aviator jacket Black retails for $505.00
Quatroflex M-XXL- Motorcycle Back Armor (Optional) retails for $50.00
Thank you to Pando for sending the jeans and jacket to do a review. amm
mOtORcycLe tOuRINg in the uK
WORdS: keIth mILLeR
RIDING A MOTORCYCLE AROUND the Country is one of the best ways to explore the United Kingdom and to experience the diverse culture of the place. the climate is temperate,
and the weather is rarely extreme; by and large the road surfaces and the signage are good. What makes the United Kingdom especially well-suited to motorcycle touring is that the distances between the many thousands of places of interest are not too great. If you plan the right routes, the riding is consistently scenic and entertaining, indeed some of the rides in the remoter parts of the Country are truly spectacular.
At RoadTrip Motorcycles, we meet a couple of hundred international riders every season who come here from all over the World to rent and ride our premium motorcycles and tour all over the UK, Ireland and continental Europe. Being in Woking, a market town in the busy southeast of the country, close to Central London, the airports and the Channel ports, makes RoadTrip an easy starting point for their tours.
The riding season in the UK is quite long – at least five months, from May through to September, and
for us it begins on fine days in March and runs through into October. June is the busiest month in the rental calendar. Many bikes are pre-booked the previous year by British and international riders planning to ride up to attend the Isle of Man TT races, where the practice week begins on the last weekend of May.
Each year, we welcome dozens of riders from ANZ who look to us to set them off on a memorable motorcycle tour. For some it is an annual event, for others it is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Some join organised tours or ride with friends, some ride alone, and some ride two-up with their partners. Some bring their own riding gear, and others we kit out with everything from SatNavs with pre-programmed routes to intercom helmets, clothing, and gloves. Every motorcycle has its own luggage system, which includes soft liner bags for ease of packing. At RoadTrip we take great pride in our fleet of top spec. BMWs, Triumphs, Ducatis and Yamahas and we supply each rider with chain lube where required, as well as robust security locks and chains. Every rider receives a full briefing on their machine before they set off; and seat heights, levers and shifters are all adjusted to ensure that the ride is
as safe and comfortably personalised as it can be.
What’S ON OFFeR
Organised motorcycle touring in the UK, as in many parts of the World, falls into one of two categories: self-guided and guided. Guided, or escorted tours, as they are sometimes called, are group tours arranged by specialist motorcycle touring companies, usually of between 10 and 25 riders with one or two guides accompanying them. These are popular
with riders who look forward to the company of others, both on and off the road, and who prefer to tour with experienced guides who have local knowledge. Depending on the organiser and the tour location, these tours may be accompanied by a support vehicle as well. Guided tours include pre-planned routes, pre-booked accommodation and their departure and return dates are pre-arranged many months in advance.
Self-guided motorcycle touring takes a more flexible approach. Routes are
planned and programmed into Satnavs for each rider, sometimes with optional alternatives, and accommodation is pre-booked. Many self-guided tours are offered by touring companies alongside their programme of escorted tours and will follow the same itinerary. Some companies, like RoadTrip offer a more bespoke arrangement. Self-guided tours are unaccompanied and offer a choice of departure and return dates. Self-guided tours suit individuals, couples or small groups of riding friends who prefer their own company and wish to set their own schedules.
WheRe tO RIde IN the uk
Although a relatively small island, Great Britain, which consists of England, Wales and Scotland, is blessed with many and varied landscapes. For visiting overseas riders this presents a wide range of opportunities to explore each region in turn. We advise riders that to take a leisurely look at most of what the Country has to offer they need at least a fortnight. If riders want to extend a grand tour to take the ferry across the Irish Sea and explore Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, we suggest adding
another 10 days. We believe that the best motorcycle touring days consist of good miles, and not necessarily the most miles. Depending on riding styles, 200 miles in the UK can be a very long day indeed, particularly if you are riding coastal roads in northern Scotland or winding along picturesque roads and lanes across the moorlands of Devon and Cornwall in the southwest of England.
the SOuthWeSt OF eNgLaNd
Often referred to as the West Country, the region comprises all the land south of
built villages and rugged upland passes makes for a wonderful transit between The Snowdonia National Park in north Wales and the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Yorkshire with its dales to the West and moors to the East, is criss-crossed with magnificent motorcycling routes and itself serves as a route to the Lake District National Park and on northwards into southwestern Scotland.
ScOtLaNd
It takes at least two days riding from southern England to reach the Scottish border, and from there the distance to the north coast, as the crow flies, is the same again – but why rush? Much is written about the North Coast 500, a five-hundred-mile coastal loop northwards from Inverness, and certainly the western section of the NC500 is an unmissable treat for motorcyclists who have the luxury of time on their side. In our view though, the northeastern coast is less interesting than the inland roads which traverse the mountains and moorland of this northernmost part of the British mainland. But before riders bolt straight up to the NC500 it is worth remembering that there is so much magnificent riding and territory to cover which is south of Inverness. From the rolling hills and rugged peninsulas of southwest Scotland across to St. Andrews in the East Neuk of Fife and up through the Central Highlands and Cairngorm mountains, these riding roads are well known by bikers as some of the finest in the Country.
WaLeS
amm the Bristol Channel all the way to Land’s End, together with the counties of Gloucestershire and Herefordshire which border southern Wales. From wooded hills and prosperous farmland to the last English wilderness of Dartmoor and the rugged Cornish coastline, there is excellent, varied riding and fine hospitality on offer. Our advice though, is to avoid the peak holiday season on mid-July through August – too many caravans and too few passing places, even for motorcycles.
There is some spectacular riding in Wales. From the mountains of Snowdonia in the north to the Cambrian mountains and Brecon Beacons in the south, there are sweeping bends and grand vistas all the way. With the exception of the southern city belt of Newport, Cardiff, Bridgend and Swansea, this is one of the least densely populated regions of Great Britain with some of the finest blacktop. Wales, with its own distinctive national identity, culture and language, has many of the dramatic highland and coastal features which attract riders to Scotland, yet it is only half a day’s ride across country from London and the southeast.
eaSt aNgLIa
The roads less travelled, East Anglia is an ancient feeling part of England, comprising the easternmost counties of Norfolk and Suffolk. Predominantly flat and rural, the riding is nonetheless spirited, and the villages and old market towns of the region have a distinctive charm.
The Peak District, Yorkshire, and the Lake District
A motorcyclist could spend many happy days exploring the hills and dales and lakeland of northern and northwestern England. The Peak District National Park with its fine, stone-
So, if you and your friends are considering taking a motorcycle touring holiday in the UK, our advice is to book your bike early to avoid disappointment and to plan on taking your time to explore and savour some or all of our neck of the woods.
a ghOStLy SpRINg
RIde tO WaLhaLLa
WORdS: heatheR eLLIS phOtOS: heatheR eLLIS aNd daVId haNNah
Above: Walhalla is always a popular day ride for the Moto Guzzi Club of Victoria.
Below: Pocket-sized historic Walhalla was once a bustling gold rush town. Photo: David Hannah.
ride to Walhalla
THE HISTORIC TOWN OF Walhalla nestled in a steep narrow valley in Victoria’s Gippsland, is a two- or three-hour ride east of Melbourne, depending on your route. It’s both an easy day ride or a weekend get-away where you can really soak up the gold mining history. One of australia’s richest gold mining towns, Walhalla was founded in 1862 and had a population of around 4000 at its peak in the early 1890s. Today, Walhalla is very much a ‘living museum’ with only about 20 residents, but is often overrun with tourists on weekends. But when they leave, late afternoon and evenings this pocket-sized town goes quiet and you really do feel as though you’re on own. this lovingly preserved town with its restored historic buildings takes you back in time as you wander its quiet streets. With maybe a ghost or two by your side. Yes, its haunted and you can even join an evening ghost tour.
Walhalla has been popular with motorcyclists since the 1920s and for good reason. Even back then, they discovered it’s the journey and not just the destination. Avoid the Princess Freeway, and instead head out to the Yarra Ranges turning off a Yarra Junction, which will
take you to Noojee. There’s no fuel here until you get to Rawson, but stop at the Red Parrot for coffee and chat to other riders as there’s always a few hanging out enjoying the warm morning sunshine. You’ve got a choice from here. Either the scenic narrow and winding Mt Baw Baw Tourist Road via Mt Baw Baw or turn off at Icy Creek if you don’t want to ride 16kms of gravel. I’d take the road to Mt Baw Baw and stop for lunch at the Mt Baw Baw Alpine Village. The 5km ride in is worth
it for the steep climb and some very nice corners on the smoothest of black tarmac. Lunch at the Mt Baw Baw Village Central Restaurant affords stunning views out over Gippsland all the way to the ocean on a clear day. Once back on the road to Walhalla, you’ll be on South Face Road and about half the 30km to the Walhalla turn off is gravel but its graded and road bikes will handle it easily. Might be a few corrugations. If you’re a little precious about dust and prefer to stay on tarmac,
take the turn off at Icy Creek and follow the signs to Rawson and on to Walhalla. If you’re staying overnight, you’ll get to Walhalla early afternoon and plenty of time to explore the heritage-listed historic buildings (some are open as mini museums), then head to the Warby Pub for dinner. Make sure you pre-book a Ghost Tour, which run every Saturday night at 7:30pm or 9:00pm during daylight saving. Also, pre-book the Long Tunnel Gold Mine Tour, which you could do Sunday at noon before heading back to Melbourne after strolling around the village in the morning. There’s also the historic cemetery, the Walhalla Goldfields Railway and the 26km winding road to the Lake Thomson dam wall (if you take the Walhalla Road north of the village, about 17kms is unsealed).
There’s a few options for accommodation in Walhalla from free camping at North Gardens with drop toilet at the far end of the town or paid camping at the Chinese Gardens with amenities and hot water. There’s also a number of hotels and B&B cottages, but my absolute favourite is the historic Windsor House B&B. And yes, it’s definitely haunted! While the bathrooms are shared, the bedrooms, lounge and dining room all furnished with antiques, is just like staying in a museum. It has a self-help bar for you to enjoy an afternoon drink in the front garden which is a very pleasant way to end a day’s ride.
If you love all things historical, a weekend or even a day ride, to Walhalla is a must do this spring. But it’s just as stunning in summer and autumn. While autumn brings stunning colours, roads, especially at the end of autumn and into winter, can be damp, even green in many places, particularly on those bends where filtered sun struggles to reach. My last ride to Walhalla was late autumn when the road was littered with bark, branches, sticks, and leaves, but no matter what time of year, there is something quite mystical about riding through tall mountain ash forest and giant tree ferns to arrive at historic Walhalla where, almost forgotten, it sits nestled in a narrow valley in the foothills of Mt Baw Baw.
Right: It’s not just the destination, but also the journey. A ride to Walhalla has some magic roads.
Top left: Turn back time in Walhalla.
Left: Spring time in Walhalla.
Top right: The Wally Pub is popular with motorcyclists on weekends.
Photo: David Hannah
Photo: David Hannah
that RemINdS me OF…
LOOK ON ANY MAP and you’ll see side roads to venture down. Dots on a piece of paper or on the screen of your tablet, some pint to names you can’t pronounce. Some symbols on the phone show places of interest like a knife and fork that show a place to check how good their barista is.
You can always put on your Indiana
Jones hat and Jacket as you rumble through back block coffee houses searching for the perfect coffee and barista goddess or travel around with a leather satchel carrying a dog-eared notebook and towel telling baristas you’re a journo gathering info for travelling guide. As you travel from place to place and town to town, often a soundtrack plays
in the background and is subliminally etched to sights and experiences. Later, the piece of music evokes memories of places and people met on your journeys. It releases dopamine and creates a sense of joy and nostalgia. It might be a piece of music from a juke box in a bar, radio in a café, a busker playing a cover on a street corner or the sound of a currawong while relaxing by a campfire.
Heading down the M5, the Eagles’ “Journey of the Sorcerer” plays while cars dart past and oncoming traffic is populated by drivers with glum faces heading toward the city. The Go Betweens’ “Cattle and Cane” plays through the speakers, as I veer right at Narellan Road and drive through historic Camden. Stopping at any of the many cafes for a coffee and donut and watch the crowd to see if anything interesting can be used for a story. Re-joining the old Hume highway at South Camden to travel over the Razorback Range. C.W McCall sings “Convoy” as I enter the rest stop and monument laying here to remember the 1979 Truck Blockade. Part of a nationwide fight over fuel taxes, 200 trucks stopped here blocking supplies of fuel, produce and other goods entering Sydney from Victoria for 9 days. A little further is a lookout where on a clear day has a great vista of the Sydney Basin.
It’s even more spectacular watching a thunderstorm rolling in.
Down the hill and around the bend is Picton. Ray Parker Jr sings “Ghost Busters” as I roll down Argyle Street. For those that love the unexplained, supernatural or superhero movies, Picton is regarded as the most haunted town in NSW. Sightings of ghostly children playing in the church grounds, orbs in the old mushroom tunnel, thought to be the ghost of Emily Bollard killed by a train in the 1800’s as well as ghostly voices at the abandoned swimming hole near the viaduct are just a few of the town’s residents. Personally, I’ve only seen a couple of pasty looking people wandering the streets. For movie buffs, a brief shot of buildings along Menangle Street can be seen in the movie Wolverine.
Heading further along the Hume Highway the Police sing “Message in a Bottle” and “Walking on the Moon” while I cruise through Tahmoor and Bargo. A diversion takes me to Nepean and Avon Dams. Both dams were built to supply Sydney and the Illawarra of the precious commodity during the 1920’s and 30’s. They are heritage listed, have adequate picnic grounds and are interesting places to investigate to understand where Sydney drew its water before Warragamba Dam was completed in 1960.
Rolling into Bowral, Paul Kelly sings about Donald Bradman. Bong Bong Street is lined with cars and people strolling browsing through shops. Not far from the main street, a white picket fence surrounds the cricket pitch and a statue of Bradman stands beside the cricket museum. Late last century, the cricket pitch was made famous by a young pig that mustered sheep.
Elvis sings, “Jail House Rock” through speakers and I head toward historic Berrima. Once a major town in the district, it held a courthouse, two churches, post office and goal. The gaol held German POW’s during WW1 and was later
Top left: Looking into Camden. Left: Razorback Memorial.
Above: Bowral.
Above right: Donald Bradman.
Right: Ed’s Bar Picton.
used as a correctional centre until 2011. It reopened in 2016 as a Women’s prison. Losing importance to the district when it was bypassed by the railway, it was nevertheless a major stopping point on the Hume for travellers to and from Canberra, the ski fields and Melbourne.
Berrima is still a popular tourist town offering gift shops, cafes, artworks and picnic areas and a cooling ale on a hot summer’s day.
Phil Collins smashes at the drums as the old Hume highway meets the new Hume Motorway heading south.
Left: Collector Wines.
Below: Old Hume.
Above: Marulan, The Americans have Ice T, we have Billy Tea.
Passing wineries near Sutton Forest the landscape looks like a watercolour of greens and browns. Remnants of the old highway are found to the side of the motorway, chopped in sections and now overgrown with weeds and scrub reclaiming the old track.
Marulan creeps up as John Mellencamp sings “Rain on the Scarecrow”. Once a major truck- stop and weigh station, it is now bypassed. However, if you take the detour and follow the Old Hume through the town, you will find Georgian buildings resurrected as cafes, antique and gift shops. On a good day, heritage plated Fords and Holdens can be found parked at the curb resting after a run on the expressway. A welcoming pub marks the towns major intersection and as you survey the street, you find yourself standing in the only town in the world built on 150° meridian. Here, during the equinox, the sun rises and sets at precisely 6am and 6pm. A sculpture at the southern end of town marks the sun’s rays as it rises and sets.
“I was only 19” by Redgum streams
through my helmet as I pull into the Derrick VC rest area to pour myself a cup of tea and stretch my legs. There are 23 memorials dedicated to Victoria Cross recipients. 19 are rest areas on
the highway and remaining 4 are in the Australian War Memorial. As I waited for the water to boil, I discovered this rest stop also has remnants of the Towrang Stockade. The site of a major
penal settlement from 1836 to 1842 to build the Southern Road. Holding 250 convicts in its time with 10 men to a cell, it was known for its harsh conditions and numerous floggings. A weir
across the creek, a sandstone bridge and stone culvert mark the original road. The Pretenders sing “Back on the Chain Gang” as pull I out onto the highway.
Paul Kelly sings “From St Kilda to
Kings Cross” as the dotted lines mark the Hume through Goulburn. Home to numerous heritage- listed buildings, Goulburn is our first listed inland city. Still the major commercial centre
for the region, the wide streets and ornate architecture show it was once a prosperous city. Some people think Goulburn is only known for its gaol, police academy and giant ram, but they
have not discovered the car racing at Wakefield, blues festival and adventure sports in Bungonia National Park.
Veering off the Hume Highway, toward Canberra, Bob Dylan sings “Knocking on Heavens Door” as I glide into Collector. A monument to Constable Samuel Nelson is erected beside the Collector Hotel. On the plaque reads, “Joined
the Police force on 1857. He lived with his wife and 8 children as the lock-up keeper in Collector. In 1864 and 1865,
bushrangers were active in the area and on 26/01/1865 Bushrangers Ben Hall, John Gilbert and John Dunn were
Left: Marulan shop.
Below left, above, right and below: Some of the classic buildings around Marulan
robbing the Kimberley’s Inn. Constable Nelson was alerted and armed with his carbine with attached bayonet, he remarked to his wife that would simply “have to do his best”. Upon reaching the Inn, the constable was shot by Dunn who had hidden behind a fence post. The blast struck the constable in the chest. Dunn fired again, striking the constable in the head, killing him. The entire incident was witnessed by two of the constable’s sons. Bushranger John Dunn was later
hanged in Darlinghurst Gaol for the murder of constable Samuel Nelson. The Nelson family continued to receive support from the Collector community. It is worth sitting down and having a beer for a man that was doing his job protecting the town.
Across the road is the Dreamers Gate Sculpture. Made of chicken wire and
concrete in the late 1990’s it has seen better days. You can make your own mind as to whether it’s a dream or a nightmare. At the southern end of town, you’ll find the best sausage rolls this side of Bass Straight in the Some Café. Next door, Collector Wines have very good reds while a short stroll further along the old Hume is Helen Stephens Gallery. A resurrected farmhouse, it supports local and regional ceramics and prints as well as hosting exhibitions of prominent artists. It is well worth the drive for the sausage rolls, red wine and browse of the gallery. Once home and you’ve packed away your Indiana hat and jacket, you can always pull out the fine vinyl and kick back while sifting through snapshots of old rides while seeing what song or piece of music evokes memories of these places and look at your notes to see if you has recorded where that barista was. It can be said, the soundtracks alter your mood for the better. It can be reminder of a valued experience, creating a sense of youthfulness and to some degree, increases optimism and a meaning for life.
amm
Far left: Police Memorial Collector.
Left: Meridian Marulan.
Right: Ram Raid.
Below: Off the rails near Goulbourn.
Take a break especially after a long section of technical riding.
nodding off
WhILe the WheeLS aRe tuRNINg
t he S ta Rt OF a FO u R -day V I ct ORI a N hI gh cO u N t Ry RI de N ea RLy e N ded IN t R agedy a S m I c ROSL eep S a FF ect m O t OR cyc LIS t S t OO .
WORdS aNd phOtOS: heatheR eLLIS
RIDING THE SWEEPERS, CORNERS and hairpins of Victoria’s High Country with a group of like-minded friends is one of my favourite weekend get-aways. With summer fast approaching one of the best times to hit these roads is the weekend before Christmas. While the rest of australia is not yet on the move or is still battling the crowds as they feverishly do last minute shopping, as motorcyclists we have these high country roads to ourselves as well as the free camping sites.
Our group of six rode over Mt Hotham, the Mitta Mitta road and back over Falls Creek. It was over dinner at the Blue Duck Inn at Angler’s Rest on the first night that I announced I’d had my first microsleep. Yes, it surprised me too for I thought this was something that just happened to drivers. There was silence followed by calls of ‘Impossible. Not on a motorcycle’.
Then one of our group said yes, it’d happened to him. It was years ago, in his twenties when he often stayed up late but now in middle-age he’d slowed down and was always well rested before getting into the saddle. The evening took on the mood of
“ i’d had my first microsleep. yes, it surprised me too for i thought this Was something that just happened to drivers.”
a group therapy session, but out of the six of us, we discovered only two had suffered the phenomenon. Mine occurred mid-afternoon on our first day riding from Melbourne’s outer
east. I was on my Triumph Thruxton on a 30km stretch of straight road between Milawa and Myrtleford as we headed to the High Country. I’d been tired behind the wheel of my car before but always managed to push through the yawns and shake off drowsiness, which by the way is a warning a microsleep is imminent. But I’d never felt even the tiniest bit tired while on a bike. In fact, I buzz with the thrill of it all, my brain taking on the mannerisms of a supercharged computer as it assesses risk, potential hazards and the line I’ll take through the next bend as it rapidly scans through the trees for any oncoming traffic. My brain performs a multitude of complex tasks simultaneously. So seriously, just how could one nod off while one’s synapses fired like a Gatling gun under enemy fire. But sleepy roads, those straight stretches, are different. In my denial that microsleeps don’t happen to
The free campsite at Jingellic beside the Murray River in NSW offers peace and quiet during a long weekend ride.
motorcyclists, I continued to ride at the constant drone of 100km/hr even though I was yarning and shaking my head vigorously. Then for a second or maybe longer, I nodded off. One moment, I was awake in control and then blackness. Seconds later, I woke up with the front wheel on the edge of the tarmac, the Thruxton about to head off into a field. It was only the change in ground surface that woke me up. Fortunately, the camber pushed me off the road rather than into any potential ongoing traffic.
A microsleep can last from three seconds to 13 seconds and happens when you’re so fatigued that the brain takes over and momentarily shuts down. We’re more susceptible during times when we’re biologically programmed for sleep. Researchers call this our low circadian periods, which are from midnight to 6am and 2pm to 4pm. But a microsleep doesn’t happen without warning. First there’s loss of concentration followed by yarns and droopy eyes. When this happens, you need to
“ first there’s loss of concentration folloWed by yarns and droopy eyes. When this happens, you need to stop immediately.”
Above: Strapping a comfy sleeping kit and tent to your bike ensures you’re well rested for the next day’s ride.
Below: On long rides or when pushing it hard on High Country roads, take a break to rest and re-hydrate to avoid fatigue and loss of concentration.
Top right: To ensure a good night’s sleep, some riders prefer to book a room and they’re also not loaded down with gear.
STOP immediately.
Caught up finishing a last-minute communications work project the night before our weekend ride, I ignored all the advice about an early night before a long ride. Coupled with a 5am start to tie up loose ends, pack and be at the departure point by nine, it all lead to the ‘perfect storm’– disaster was inevitable. But I was one of the lucky ones; I woke up and avoided tragedy. Some motorcyclists have not. I was once a member of the Victorian Government’s former Motorcycle Expert Advisory Panel, a group tasked to advise the government on ways to make
motorcycling safer. There was always concern about the number of single motorcycle fatalities on some of Victoria’s straight stretches of highway. But there was no mention that a microsleep might be to blame. While fatigue is a serious issue with drivers and an estimated 20 per cent of driver fatalities nationally said to be caused by microsleeps, the phenomenon is rarely discussed in motorcycling circles.
Still shaken by my own microsleep experience, I brought up the subject at ‘Shed night’. As the guys and gals played darts, I asked if anyone ever had a microsleep on a motorcycle. There was silence and then a single voice called out: Yeah, I have. Happens all the time. It came from the rider of a cruiser-style motorcycle with heated everything, a large plush seat, a wide screen–even cruise control. His microsleep affliction was understandable as researchers have reported that the likelihood of a microsleep is linked to the level of comfort of the vehicle, which includes motorcycles. As he threw the dart, I whacked him on the shoulder horrified he’d let it happen more than once. But he agreed it was dangerous and should never happen again.
Motorcycle road safety advocates
nationally are also concerned the ignorance about riding when fatigued will lead to riders not being adequately warned about the very real dangers of suffering a microsleep.
As our lives get busier and busier and we are asked to work longer and harder,
Sleep is the only cure for fatigue, which can lead to a microsleep and can be fatal. But a microsleep doesn’t come from out of the blue because there’s always warning signs telling you how sleepy you are.
If you’re feeling tired, pull over. Your
mates will see you’ve dropped back and come looking for you. It’s not worth the risk to push through the fog that is fatigue because a microsleep affects motorcyclists the same way as drivers but with more severe, often fatal, consequences.
we invariably become more and more sleep deprived. So, the next time you get the yawns on a sleepy road, don’t push through it. Pull over before its lights out. Better still, get a good night sleep before that much anticipated and well-earned motorcycling weekend away.
While the best remedy to avoid a microsleep is a good night’s sleep before your ride, pulling over and having a snack will get you out of trouble in the short term. Even a break of just five to 10 minutes combined with a snack such as a muesli bar and energy drink can help. But this is just a band-aid approach as a rest break does not mean you’re safe.
There are other factors that contribute to fatigue and not just lack of sleep for motorcyclists. Weather, dehydration, vibration, noise and riding for extended periods in a fixed position, which leads to muscle tiredness, all result in errors of judgement, especially if you’re doing some technical riding as you push through those tight corners.
And there is some evidence that more riders crash during the low circadian period from 2pm to 4pm, particularly on weekends and riding on long stretches or what road authorities call ‘sleepy roads’ during early afternoon.
A good night’s sleep is the only way to avoid a deadly microsleep such as this quiet spot at Anglers Rest free camp site in Victoria’s High Country.
SpRINg caRt FaRm
WORdS aNd ImageS: BOB WOzga
IN LATE 2024 BOB took a small group to Spring Cart Farm. this is a great reminder of what a good ride this is from Sydney and how great the property is for riding and camping.
One of the best times of year to go on a road trip is May. It can be considered the “Goldilocks” time. Not too hot, not too cold, not too wet, not too dry. The Autumnal colours paint the fields and trees. The days are not too long or too short. It’s just right.
I was fortunate enough to be asked by Adventure Rider Magazine to take a group of riders to Spring Cart Farm at Weabonga, near Tamworth. A working cattle station owned by Paul and Sara Rumble, it also hosts farm stays. Groups can stay in the old shearing shed
overlooking the 3-acre dam. It has toilets and showers. Sleeping areas are wherever you want to spread out your swag in the shed or pitch a tent outside. Surrounded by rolling hills with wedgetail eagles gliding in the thermals under clear blue skies and the sound of cattle and goats echoing in the distance, it’s a very peaceful setting to set up camp for a night or two and escape the hustle and bustle of city life.
Heading out of Sydney on a Friday morning with drizzle covering my goggles to the sky north looks to be clearing with patches of blue, stopping at Mooney Mooney Boat ramp, the designated meeting point I wait for Phil on his V-strom and Craig in his Prado. As we have our coffee, an old rusty Federal Ute
with a long tray carrying an ancient truck motor and the shell of another truck mounted on a trailer behind pulls in for a coffee. To the average person, these are just pieces of junk to be discarded in a scrap yard. In reality, it’s Lance from Truck Hunters Australia. He stops for a chat and talks about his show. He’s just collected his new project and is on his way up the coast. Amazing who you come across on rides.
Continuing north, we rode the bitumen to the Singleton turn off. Having arranged to meet Greg, Joc and Keryn at Nundle around 2pm. We want to get there with ample time to stretch out our legs and have a look at the town. The drizzle clears and with the Eagles’ “Journey of the Sorcerer” playing in my head, we
Near Limbri
stop at Aberdeen to get some fuel. Joc had told me earlier of a scenic stretch of road from Aberdeen to Nundle via Timor. Thankfully we don’t need to have our passports nor need to worry about pirates along this Timor straight. The road starts as bitumen and soon becomes a very well-maintained gravel road. Sweeping past horse studs, polo fields through the village of Gundy and other hamlets, there’s numerous places to pull over to take photographs. My eyes divert from the road a few too many times following the Isis River as it cuts through the valley. Winding through Crawney Pass National Park, there weren’t too many straight sections. The sun filters trough the trees and along one section a colony of black boys have planted themselves over the hill side. I don’t ever remember seeing so many grass trees growing in one place. It makes for a spectacular looking native
garden. At 950m reaching the top of the pass, facing the opposite direction, a caution sign alerts us that we had just traversed a very slippery road and 4x4s are recommended. We were thankful it wasn’t raining here today. Running well behind schedule due to the slow run through the pass, we arrived at Nundle about 90 minutes late.
Meeting Joc and Keryn on the main street of Nundle. A historic mining village that saw its heyday during the 1850’s goldrush. Travelers still come to Nundle to fossick in the Peel River for gold and gemstones, partake in the novelty dog races. I’m not sure what a novelty dog race is – maybe it’s a race between dachshund and Afghans. Others come to visit the artesian shops in town. We slip through the saloon doors (yes, saloon doors) of the Peel Inn for a quick drink, half expecting to see people wearing
Left: Willow Tree.
Below: A tour of the farm.
Right: Spring Cart Farm.
Bottom right: Setting up camp.
ten-gallon hats playing poker with a guy playing rag time on a piano in the corner. Joc and Keryn have travelled down from Armidale and have been waiting a little while for us. Introductions are made and it’s decided we best refuel and make our way to Spring Cart Farm as it’s still a little over an hour till camp and the sun is beginning to set.
Fortunately, Joc knows this area of the New England region very well and leads us past Chaffey Dam, through Woolomin, Dundowan, Ogunbil, Weabonga and to Spring Cart Farm. Without his knowledge, I’m certain I’d still be roaming around the country side lost. Reaching the farm, an easy crossing through Swamp Oak Creek greets us before getting to the front gate. Paul, Greg and Serg are already waiting for us at the house with a beer in hand wondering if we have taken a wrong turn and are heading towards the west coast. More introductions are made, and we are led to the shearing shed to get ourselves set up before dinner. For this weekend Paul had organized the catering. You can’t beat a wholesome BBQ after a long ride. Over dinner, the conversation goes from the history of the surrounding region with its various gold mines, bushrangers whose descendants still live in the area, places we have all travelled to and roads we’ve explored both here and overseas. Maps are pulled out to set the agenda for tomorrows ride. Serg is a familiar face at the farm, knowing the tracks around the paddocks and hills, he will take us for a tour before Joc takes us on the back roads to Bendemeer for lunch and depending on time and weather conditions other lesser-known roads. As the night darkens, the sky lights up with stars. Constellations are identified and satellites cross the sky.
The following morning, clouds begin to roll in and after a hearty breakfast of eggs and bacon that Paul has provided and Joc had cooked, the bikes are organized and refueled before Serg leads us up one of the mountain trails. I’m the first to admit, I’m terrible at single trails. With Keryn shooting past me on her little 250, I follow in her tracks and quickly lose traction, stall, slide backwards and put my bike down. Up ahead, Serge has also put his Ducati down. He gets a hand getting his upright and Joc helps me get mine back
up. Two minutes later, I’m down again when I stalled when I dodged a rock. This time my DR refuses to start and the battery goes flat. With the help of Greg, I get the DR back to camp and find the battery still not wanting to give enough voltage to fire the engine. Fortunately, Paul has a charger in the shed, so I get that to restart the bike and let it idle for a while. As a side note, it’s worth investing the $150 or so and keeping it in your kit when on rides.
Everyone else comes home safely with huge smiles on their faces. Phil is blown away by the sight of a wedgetail eagle flying past him at eye height while parked on the peak of the mountain. After a short break we head out to Bendameer before the rain starts. Heading out of the farm toward Weagonga, I keep a lookout for Australia’s only Roman wall. During WW2, Italian POW’s were “guests” of the Australian government and interned on the neighbouring property. The paddock is still called “The Italian camp.” Ok, it’s not strictly Roman but Romans are Italian and the Italians built it, so it may
as well be a Roman Wall. Rolling through Weabonga, the village showed remnants of a larger town. Mining gold, manganese and rhodonite, in the 1890’s it had three stores, several boarding houses, a blacksmith, two butcheries and a bakery. It was large enough to establish a police station and court of petty sessions. As with most mining towns, it declined as the resources dwindled. In 1944, the police station was closed. Now a private house, it still has the lockup attached to the house. Imagine the stories those walls could tell. Joc leads us along spectacular roads from Weabonga to Niangala through Aberdalbie Nature Reserve into Woolbrook. Places most of us have never heard of let alone able to pronounce. A light drizzle falls wetting the goggles and bringing out the colours of paddocks and rock outcrops. Following the tyre tracks of the bikes ahead, I’m still amazed at the isolated places people have built their houses. Some have been abandoned decades ago, some look recent. You need a particular personality to survive and thrive in these places.
The rain gets heavier as we race from Woolbrook to Bendemeer before the kitchen closes for lunch orders. Dylans “Shelter from the Storm” play in my head as we come into town. The heart drops as we pass the fuel stop to find it is closed and I hope I’ve got enough fuel to the next open service station. Shelter from the storm is found under the awning of an abandoned shop opposite the Bendemeer Pub. The carpark is full and thankfully, the kitchen is still taking orders. The chili chicken is recommended. Country pubs have so much more character and charm than suburban establishments. An old style pub that has a welcoming atmosphere and after a cool rainy ride, a perfect place to dry out. Illustrations on the walls by renowned artist Stephen Dobson in the style of early century commercial illustrations, you can have a beer and walk around admiring the artwork. Stephen Dobson is also known for Dobsons Distillery at Kentucky NSW. These places are always worth a visit and with the right company, even more so. With the rain still lingering and
Craig
Photo
light failing, we make a move to Moonbi to refuel, pick up some provisions and head back to the shearing shed. Craig and I leave to the other riders to try and get some photos while low clouds shroud the hills, making for some good photographic opportunities. Don’t be afraid of taking photos in low light and drizzle.
Reaching the Spring Cart farm upon dusk, the others made themselves comfortable in the shed having a drink in the shed listening to the rain on the corrugated iron roof while watching the ducks in the dam.
The following morning, the sun seeps through the clouds and the fog begins to lift bringing a clear blue sky for the day. After another wholesome BBQ breakfast provided by Paul, we said our goodbyes and thankyous and set off home. The 24km of gravel to Limbri is easy with the nights rain filling potholes preventing dust flying behind us and leaving a trail of where we have been.
These road trips are a terrific way of meeting other people with the same interests. It doesn’t matter if you have a large bike or small, your riding abilities don’t really matter, I’m crap on singe trail. It doesn’t matter if you ride like the wind or ride like an old fart. It doesn’t matter if you are male or female, it doesn’t even matter if you ride or take a car. The important thing is to get out there and explore places no one has heard
of, sit around with great company, great conversation and banter.
Thanks to Paul and Sara for the hospitality and extra photographs. Phil and Greg for the lame dad jokes, Craig as vehicle support and extra photographs, Harry the dog, Keryn for the insight in uni life and soccer refereeing, Joc for the local knowledge of the region – we’d still be lost in the hills and Serge for the tour of the farm.
Below: Phil and Greg.
Bottom: Heading home
A special thanks to Susan at Adventure Rider Magazine and Mike Ferris at World On Wheels for coming up with the idea of organizing these rides.
For those that saw the advertised rides and missed out, maybe we’ll see you next time.
amm
Stays can be booked via Hicamp www.hipcamp.com/en-AU/land/new-south-wales-spring-cart-farm-swamp-oak-creek Costs are $30.27 per night take out what you bring in. Pets are allowed on a leash – it is a working farm.
Above: Breakfast at the farm.
Spring Cart Farm is at 2381 Limbri Weabonga Rd, Weabonga NSW 2340
Photo Paul
deVIL WIpeS tWo further perspeCtives
THAT’S A NICE PACKET to find on my doorstep on a late Friday evening after work. While riding home in the dark with street and car headlights reflecting off bugs and finger marks on my visor, it’s a tossup between finding a servo to clean my visor (traffic light windscreen cleaners don’t work at night) and riding with lens flare or simply keep riding home with the visor up being blasted by icy night air until I get home an may be wash my visor.
Reaching home, I found a parcel from Devil Wipes on my doorstep. After ripping apart the package, I find a sample pack of wipes and a cloth specifically designed for cleaning helmets, visors and goggles. Just what I needed an hour earlier. The wipes come in re-sealable pocket size packets holding 8 moistened wipes and easily fit in your jacket pocket or storage space on your motorcycle. Giving my visor a clean down to see how good these wipes are, the bugs easily came off and fingerprints cleaned off. A small polishing cloth supplied in the sample pack cleaned off any residue. Result, a nice clean visor.
Speaking to Mick Spiller from Devil Wipes and thanking him for sending the sample pack to try out, he informs me the products genesis was from riding through Tasmania and passing roadkill that attract clouds of insects that then covered his visor. Having
d e VIL W I pe S
JOhN mcLeNNaN
returned to motorcycle riding after 16 years he had the same predicament of looking for somewhere to clean his visor, he thought he would tackle the problem and find a solution, thus a packet of visor wipes.
Mindful of harsh chemicals in cleaners, Mick has produced the wipes with a 100% biodegradable solution that is free of ammonia, alcohol or abrasive solutions. This makes it safe for poly carbonate and tinted visors. The cloth is non-woven pearl grain fabric that reduces abrasion or scratching of the visor or goggle lens. Mick recommended keeping a dry wipe, after it’s been washed and used as a polishing cloth to remove any residue from the wipe. He is quick to advise that the Devil Wipes are not a magical cloth that are the only thing to use for keeping your visor clean, they are a temporary solution for any rider regardless of road or adventure/ trail to enable you to pull over and clean your visor goggles or even glasses regardless of where you are. Nothing worse than being blinded by the afternoon sun on a dirty visor. The wipes are also handy to clean dead bugs off your headlight and screen stopping spiders from making a home in your bike, treating it like an arachnid meals on Wheels.
Are they a good idea as a temp solution on the hot dusty road when visibility is poor – you bet ya.
Mick also advised that if you mention AM or ADV magazine when making a purchase, he will throw in the polishing cloth or Devil Wipes key ring. The key ring allows you to put in a name and contact number in case you put your bike down somewhere.
Devil Wipes can be purchased at numerous independent motorcycle stores in Tasmania as well as in Victoria. In NSW, QLD and SA, AMX stores are the main distributors.
You can purchase them online. A 4 pack costs $20 +$4 postage and 8 Pack $40 +$6 postage. Website https://www.devilwipes.com/buy-online/ 10 cents of each packet sold goes to “Save the Tasmanian DevilAppeal” that does research into Devil Facial Tumour Disease.
They are good! I used them on my visor, my sunnies, my go pro and they work really well! No streaks, and I am ocd about my vision. Highly recommended.
WORdS aNd ImageS: BOB WOzga
hImaLayaN mOtORcycLe adVeNtuRe
GEOFF, A SLIGHTLY CORPULENT but still largely functional 62 year old man, was convinced by a friend to undertake the “trip of a lifetime” way back in 2018. It was billed as “A little ride in the Himalayas” on a classic Royal Enfield – sounds easy enough, right? Geoff had been to India several times before and so knew that road safety was not a high priority there, but he liked the food (a lot). He also had the vivid memory of his father’s voice in his much younger teenage ear giving strict instructions NEVER to ride a motorcycle on the road. So clear was that voice that Geoff waited until his father passed a few years ago before he was comfortable enough to cheat a little on his promise by getting a Vespa GTS300 scooter to ride to the shops and back. Hardly a ride through the Himalayas, but the skills acquired avoiding huge 4WD’s on the school run, combined with his childhood experience on a Yamaha aG100 on the tracks at the old Menai brickworks in Southern
Sydney, had Geoff convinced that he had it covered. If not now, when? Of course, it was several (too many) pints of pale ale that actually convinced him he had the skills…but such is the power of booze when applied to a weak mind.
Despite drunkenly agreeing to join the ride under intense peer group pressure, COVID intervened to ensure a few more years of life could be enjoyed before the trip finally happened this year. Over that time some of the weaker members of the original group came to their senses and dropped out, leaving 6 hardy old fools.
Given it was Geoff’s “maiden voyage” there was all sorts of equipment to be sourced – riding boots (Forma, which proved as awesome as advertised), a proper jacket (donated by good friend Greg Jansen of Rocky Creek Designs as he had shrunk so much that it was now useless to him and only just fitted Geoff), riding pants (last super-sized pair on the rack and purchased for the deeply discounted price of $50), rain jacket and pants (we were heading into monsoon season after all), helmet (full face adventure helmet, also fantastic), gloves (waterproof, see monsoon above), compression socks (the guys at Saint in Melbourne had medical backgrounds and recommended them strongly for long rides, which turned out to be great advice), a few funky MotoX long sleeve T-shirts that were on sale at Saint and made Geoff look like a shit-hot young MotoX whizz (in his mind’s eye) and some thermals for the days the group would be at high altitude (bloody freezing) compared to time at lower levels (insanely hot). Add to that the medical kits, vaccinations and myriad other bits and pieces on “the list” and Geoff had everything he needed (except for anything he would need that wasn’t on the list).
tRaVeLOg (BIkINg)
day 1 – deLhI tO ShImLa
Although we arrived in Delhi, the motor biking bit didn’t start until Shimla, sensibly avoiding the need to learn how to ride in the madness of Delhi’s killing fields. Oh, and the weather you ask? Mid 40’s with 93% humidity in Delhi and monsoon floods in the North where we were heading. A traditional welcome to India.
Getting to Shimla was an awesome experience in itself, riding the famed heritage Toy Train for 5-hours of stunning vistas and involving a variety of interactions with locals and tourists alike. Well worth it, although it was sadly put out of action soon after our trip by the deadly monsoons hitting India.
Shimla is an architectural and visual marvel. Apart from the construction of the Toy Train railway (incredible engineering) to get there, all the houses are built on near vertical mountainsides. It was built so the Government could escape the heat of Summer and govern from high in the mountains. That brought all the toadies and other hangers-on, and Shimla was born.
It is impossible to capture the scenery in a photo that gives you any real idea of the grandeur of the Himalayan foothills. You’ll just have to put it on your bucket list.
On arrival at our hotel we met our motorbike guide, Keku, who showed us our bikes - we got upgraded from old Royal Enfield Bullets to near new Royal Enfield Himalayans. Let’s hope they stay near new
Off to bed for an early night before our first ride tomorrow. The final countdown
day 2 - ShImLa
First day on the motorbikes for a test run around Shimla before we hit the road to go higher. Well, actually hitting the road is something I want to avoid. The biggest bike I have ridden to date is my Vespa to and from Manly, so navigating the Himalayas on a bigger bike is going to be interesting. Now add a shitload of traffic, random animals (one of which is Holy) and a fucktonne of potholes on generally shitty roads… What could go wrong? Luckily we got upgraded to nearly new Royal Enfield Himalayans instead of the original Bullets. They are much better for this kind of ride. My odds of survival
just went up significantly.
Our guide Keku referred to Shimla as being at “sea level” given it is at “only” 2,200 metres – the same height as our highest peak Mt Kosciuszko. We have actually been a bit lucky with the weather as the clouds and some light rain has kept things cool enough to breathe and continue living.
Anyway, our “test ride” took us up some fabulous switchback roads to a temple, and then back through the crazy traffic to the Viceroy’s original shack. Built over 4 years in the late 19th century on the top of Observatory Hill, it is a grand old pile in
the style of a Scottish Manor. I can barely walk in the heat, let alone drag all the stone needed to build this place. It was where the British started to negotiate the handover of India in 1945-6. Nowadays, it is a centre for 35 PhD students to live and do their research. Nice gig if you can get it.
In the middle of the afternoon the skies opened as the monsoon decided we’d had enough fun for one day. We scampered into an undercover car park and went off for lunch in the hope the deluge would subside. It got worse. Clouds completely obliterated our
Left: Toy Train Delhi to Shimla. Top right: Train Friends.
Right: Shimla to meet our Royal Enfield Himalayas.
view of the city as swimming pools of water were dumped down.
So first day riding was a relative success. No one lost a limb, especially me. Early night tonight as it gets real tomorrow (assuming the roads didn’t get washed out).
day 3 – ShImLa tO tIRthaN VaLLey
Well, I popped my motorbike cherry good ‘n proper! Just had first real day riding and it ended up being significantly longer than planned due to a landslide caused by the monsoon
we are riding through!
Absolutely awesome ride through all kinds of magnificent scenery from Shimla to the Tirthan Valley via the Jalori Pass. A million things on the road trying to take us out, including buses, trucks, cars, potholes, cows, yaks, mud, etc.
It all started easily enough. The sun was out and we had a “simple” ride through insane traffic to get out of Shimla. If there’s one noise burned into my memory it is the sound of a million vehicles going nowhere while honking their horn. A honk here is different to an Aussie honk. Here it just means “I’m here and don’t want to kill you” so as to give you a fighting chance. Unlike Australia where cars consciously aim at bikers (both push and motor), the drivers here are very aware of riders. Doesn’t mean they won’t hit you, just that they don’t want to. There may be new skid marks in my Kevlar undies. Some very hairy moments!
After the city exit we hit some easy roads to gather our thoughts and head towards Jalori Pass at 3,100m. After a few hours we stopped at a roadside cafe for some sugary tea and sugary snacks in an effort to replace some of the energy spent sweating in the heat and avoiding death by bus bumper. The views down the valley were, as expected, fabulous.
After another short ride we arrived at our lunch spot. A tiny little hole in the wall painted bright pink on the inside. The chairs struggled under the weight of Westerners, particularly this Westerner. Lunch was like a roulette wheel of goodies. Daal, chole (my new favourite), curd and a few other vege treats. All for $2 a head, including bottled water.
The weather, despite predictions of another monsoon deluge, was perfect. Until the monsoon deluge arrived. Out of nowhere came another attempt to take out Noah and cleanse the planet. By the time we stopped to put on our wet weather gear there was no point.
This was just as we were riding up what would be referred to in Australia as a bush track, but this track still had buses and trucks hurtling around blind corners. As we neared the top after some time we were halted and told to turn around. There had been a landslide. The only option was to go all the way to the bottom and take an even smaller and more dangerous track that had been superseded by the one we had just been navigating.
This track was way more “interesting”, with certain death just to the side of you at all times. Not much traffic, so that was a win. It was like riding up a steep riverbed in the pissing rain. Ideal conditions for a near first-time rider. I could feel my testicles growing
Left: A view of Shimla. Right: Tirthan Valley hotel.
in stature, although that was probably because I had water sloshing around in my shorts from all the rain.
A quick stop for tea in a shack by the track and then it was off to continue the climb to Jalori Pass. Of course it was stunning, but all I could think was “what goes up must come down”. Sure enough the descent was somewhat hair raising. That was primarily because our guide said, “do not use the brakes too much as they will stop working if you burn them out”. Excellent news. At least this road had bitumen on it between the cratersized potholes.
After 9 hours we arrived at our destination in the Tirthan Valley. A huge river runs through it, swollen from the monsoon rains. We arrived at our hotel to find that we had to cross a bit of the river to get to the path to the hotel, but that had been totally consumed by the river. Happy days. We walked the last bit in our soggy gear. Splash splosh squelch…
Our “Boutique” Hotel was, obviously, right on the river surrounded by mountains (again, obviously ). As with most things in India, there was plenty of work left to do. Reo bars everywhere trying to skewer us. Buckets of water to “shower” in. Worst of all…our Twin Rooms in fact only had a double bed.
I guess twins could sleep in it, but the looks on our faces must have been priceless. Sleeping in the same room as snoring, farting friends is bad enough, but in the same bed as my brother?!? My brother was clearly more traumatised than me as he set out to find a separate room at any cost. He convinced them to clear out the staff bedroom which had two beds for roughly 40 staff. Good enough, despite the inch-thin staff mattresses.
A fine meal by the river with warm Tuborg Strong beer capped off a fabulous day. I could sleep anywhere right now. Except in a bed with my brother
day 4 - tIRthIN VaLLey
tO maNaLI
After our monster day yesterday we opted for a slow start. The riverside setting made for a lovely hour or two just sitting and wondering how we survived the ride yesterday.
It’s only a short ride to Manali today as a new highway has opened to replace the Tunnel of Death (a 3km long tunnel with no lighting, no fume extraction and no road markings or barrier between vehicles going in opposite directions). Now when I say “highway” please understand there are still cows walking the wrong way down any lane they want. So the surface is
Left: Tirthan Valley tea stop.
Bottom right: The road from Sarchu to Tso Kar.
good, but the obstacles remain.
Finally got out of 3rd gear and above 40kph. Had a stop at another little roadside stall that served Siddu - a dough covered paste made from walnuts and other things that vegans eat. A dip into the chilli sauce ensured it didn’t matter what it was made of.
We also stopped at a castle built in the 16th Century using piled slate and huge timber beams. At one stage the “king” who lived in it swapped it for a gun. He shall be known henceforth as the “Idiot King”.
Our hotel tonight was the home of the owner of Himalayan Saga, our bike tour company. He built a beautiful series of guest houses just in time for COVID to pull the rug out from under his business. We are one of the first to get back in the saddle, so he was delighted to host us and kept us very entertained with stories of wild men on bikes. Endless amounts of food magically appeared. The mango smoothie was basically a million mangoes squeezed into some milky goodness. Apart from traditional curries, they Indianised some Western favourites (what is that spice?). A simple touch of spice makes all the difference, as is the case in the bedroom (I’m told).
day 5 – maNaLI tO keyLONg
HolyPostcards, Batman! What a glorious ride we had today with some of the most magnificent scenery I’ve ever seen. Starting through a forest of tall pine trees as we climbed out of Manali towards the new Atul Tunnel at the Rohtang Pass, the scenery continued to impress with its lushness. Sadly the authorities have closed Rohtang Pass so it was straight through the 9km tunnel for us. Apart from the water leaking in, the tunnel was very impressive. Not sure I’d contract them to build an underwater tunnel, though
As soon as we emerged on the other side it was like chalk and cheese. The lush greenery had turned into a stoney desert landscape. The monsoon doesn’t hit this side apparently. The mountains are still snow capped with long waterfalls of melted snow running down to the river way, way below.
The ride just got better and better, with roads varying from dusty dirt tracks to brand new roads.
We stopped for a quick sniff around
at an “English Wine Shop”, which is a generic term here for a bottle shop. It is an odd brand name and I guess no one has told them that English Wine sucks. Inside was a tiny space with a very eclectic mix of whatever made it up this far. We grabbed a few Indian red wines (that had probably been sitting in the sun for a few years), a bottle of local whiskey (a blend of 1 part malt whiskey and 99 parts “Indian grain spirit”) and a few other bits and pieces.
Lunch was at another little hole in the wall, but this time it was $3 a head! Word must have got out that we are big eaters. We sat and watched the locals carry various things that were 5 times their body weight to and fro.
Along the roads were a series of signs to encourage good driving. They included gems like:
v Don’t gossip; let him drive!
v Safety on the road means a Safe Tea at home!
v You in a hurry, your family worry!
v You are on duty so you can enjoy the beauty!
v Don’t be a Gama in the land of the Llama! (note: a Gama is essentially a corpse, so a cheery little message)
Our hotel tonight is a little more rustic. Doors are locked by padlocks, like 19th Century asylums. The TV on the wall is smaller than my iPhone screen. Even funnier, it has a plug hanging down but no socket to plug it into. In any case, the beer is cold (a surprisingly rare thing in these parts) and the food good enough to eat.
day 6 - keyLONg tO SaRchu
Nota great night’s sleep last night. The mattress was thin and the bed
cover was like a thick mattress, so it compressed me like a sandwich press. In addition, my brother and I had a snoreoff where each was convinced they didn’t snore but the other snored like a wildebeest with a blocked nose. Anyway, the night finally ended and so it was up for an early breakfast and a roam around town before our 10am departure.
A group of (mostly) Aussie Buddhists had also stayed at the hotel. They were on a pilgrimage and had just come from where we were heading (Leh). They told us tales of impossibly bad roads covered in places by raging floods and couldn’t believe anyone would be stupid enough to ride a motorbike through it all. At least we were very experienced, right? I told them I had 3 days’ experience. They prayed for me. One gave us her WhatsApp address
so we could send her confirmation we made it, and she presumably could divert her prayers to bigger issues.
As an aside, one of the best things to do in India is get a haircut. Haircut, beard trim, head massage and a moisturise(!) for $1.50. Locals were lining up to watch this spectacle. I was like the bearded lady at the circus. The whole spectacle ended with group photos and much “namastaying”.
Having had an amazing ride yesterday I was worried the trip may have peaked. Nope. Today’s ride was grander, higher, and full of innumerable photographic moments that couldn’t be photographed as we were too busy dodging buses, trucks, and cars to take photos.
Nevertheless we grabbed a few, but once again it was impossible to
capture the essence of the Himalayas - they are simply mind blowing and constantly changing.
The highest we reached today was 4,850m at Baralachala Pass. Obviously the temperature had dropped significantly now we were at snow level, having ridden through sections covered in water from the melting ice.
Lunch was a mutton curry in a cool (not) tent that converted to a group sleeping situation if required at night. Given we were camping tonight at 4,200m (I should have read the itinerary more carefully) we grabbed a bunch of Nepalese woollen hats, mittens, everything. Fashionable and functional and will make a great gift once they have served their initial purpose of keeping us alive.
We arrived at our tents around 4pm. Middle of fucking nowhere. Miles from Arsewipe. Not even on the same map as Bumfuck. We were on a large flat empty plain with zero animal life or any
sign of vegetation (other than a few tiny little alpine flowers peeking out of the cracked Earth). Just loads of tents on one side of the road only. Apparently there is some long running dispute between two neighbouring regions as to who owns the other side. Frankly, I don’t understand whether they are fighting to keep it or force the other region to take it as there was nothing on it of any discernible value, other than the beginning of the next Grand Canyon running along it.
It will get down to -5C tonight. The tents have a separate toilet, but it wasn’t at all clear where it flushed to. I am reliably told it goes straight to a hole outside. I checked and they do. Everything on full display. Thankfully we are at the beginning of the season, so the holes weren’t full.
The beds were once again covered in mattress size duvets on paper thin mattresses. Someone should really show them the right way around.
Dinner was done and beers consumed by 7.30. Time for bed, but the high altitude made it hard to breathe, especially lying under a mattress on a hard board. Hence I am typing this with frozen fingers as I listen to the dulcet tones of my dear brother chopping enough wood to last the whole Winter…. I may well be found frozen to death with this as my last missive. Shame there’s no signal so I can post it but if you’re reading this, I made it.
day 7 – SaRchu tO tSO kaR
Have you ever been on a boys’ tour in a high-altitude tent after the consumption of a largely spiced vegetarian menu washed down with beer? Don’t.
Sadly these tent villages will probably disappear as their primary purpose was a stop for truckers who couldn’t drive the whole way to Leh because the roads
were so bad. Now the roads are improving there will be no need for the tents other than for stupid tourists.
Once again, I thought yesterday would be hard to beat, but the Himalayas just keep impressing. It changes constantly. A glorious sunny day combined with beautiful new roads made for a perfect combo to tackle two high passes, including my first one over 5,000m.
The new roads soon turned to the familiar shit roads full of potholes and a variety of switchback climbs that presented truck drivers with myriad opportunities to kill tourists on motorbikes. The Gata Loop was fantastic, with 21 hairpin bends winding its way up to Nakeela Pass at 4,800m. Halfway up there was an odd sight. A rubbish bin (odd in itself in the middle of nowhere) surrounded by thousands of empty plastic
water bottles. Apparently a truck driver crashed and died as he feinted from lack of water. Legend has it that his ghost knocks on truck windows at night asking for water, so now truck drivers throw bottles of water to appease the ghost.
We then hit Lachungla Pass at 5,080m, popping my 5K cherry. Only 3,000m more to get to Everest’s peak! Once again the scenery completely changed. Soon after lunch we found ourselves on a huge desert plain. More potholed dust tracks with loads of army trucks barrelling along them led us to another brand-new bitumen road that let us open the throttle and cruise along flat roads towards our destination in the distance. One minute we are trying to survive and the next we are flying along perfect roads amongst endless scenic joys.
Covered in dust and sweat after another
great day, we arrived at our Eco Hotel in Tso Kar around 5. So “Eco” that it has no WiFi, no shower spout (just a bucket of cold water) and basically nothing other than a magnificent view over a highaltitude lake to the mountains we had just crossed. I can cope with a cold wash (tits, pits, and bits) instead of the hoped-for hot shower in exchange for this view. At least the beds had mattresses this time.
Time for beers. A local favourite is Godfather beer which, at 8%, soon takes away any aches and pains and activates the male gibberish function. Especially at high altitude. Lots of tall tales, some true. Dinner was the usual vege selection - soup, daal, potatoes and a mixed vege dish with rice and roti. All delicious. I could convert if all vege food was this good
Above: Overnight tent village. Right: Road signs are made to last.
day 8 – tSO kaR tO Leh
Watching the full moon pass over the mountains followed by the early morning light was a great way to spend those parts of the night when I couldn’t sleep. A dripping toilet, snortling brother and high altitude all helped ensure I was awake and could enjoy these sights.
We set off for Leh at 7.30 and forgot we were still at 4,300m. It was bloody freezing, but the scenery warmed us up pretty quickly. Another climb above 5,000m ensured my fingers were ready to snap off. A quick descent was hampered only by a million military trucks labouring up the mountain. Unlike every other truck and bus, the military are familiar with death and are, in fact, trained to inflict it wherever they can. Including tourists on motorbikes. They did not give a shit or an inch leeway.
As the sun started rising overhead and we descended down the mountain, all body parts started to thaw until they were suddenly boiling hot. Once again all the scenery completely changed. Now the mountains were purple with “rock fins” where the rock layers had been pushed to vertical and then bits wore away leaving these insane “fins”.
Arriving in Leh we were reminded how mad city traffic is, especially after a few days in the mountains. We had set off early so we could have an afternoon at leisure in Leh. Although it took some finding, we got to our hotel only to find it was a “dry day” so no beers until after dark. Whaaaat?
day 9 – Leh tO aLchI
Had a great sleep in a comfy bed with a fully functional bathroom. Bliss. For long and complex reasons, we had to change our motor bikes in Leh. Basically the locals hate seeing motor bikes registered in another region and now demand that they get a piece of the action. Our guide and 2 mechanics spent ages checking the local bikes and swapping out the dud ones. So the keeneyed amongst you will notice I am now on a silver bike, not a white one.
An additional team member, bringing us to 7, turned up in brand new biking kit, just like a kid who arrives at school in new bright white sneakers. He had to be grubbied up immediately given we had all been through monsoons and along dusty roads for days.
It was a short day of riding to Alchi to blood our new rider in, with a few temple visits to fill in the gaps. It was a little overcast, but still 40o C when we left around 10. Trial by fire
Once again, the scenery was completely different but just as striking. The Indus River flows through Ladakh on its way to keep Northern India and Pakistan watered. There was an abundance of greenery along the river on the valley floor, surrounded by barren mountains of all shapes, sizes and geology. It looked like a series of oases.
Now I am generally of the “Not Another Fucking Temple” view, but the first one we visited was out of the ordinary. High up above the river amongst the bare rocks was a temple founded in the 16th
Left: Just another temple. Right: Finally warming up after dropping down out of the mountains.
Century. After a million or so steps up we got presented with a stunning view but, more importantly, one of the most beautiful little temples ever. A large Buddha stood on one side, with its huge feet on the ground and serene head several stories up through the ceiling. Surrounded by artworks and other temple paraphernalia, it was simply divine.
The next temple was different again. A large Buddha stood outside, unlike the first one, with several temples and a museum nearby. Before hoofing it up the stairs, we started with a light lunch of Tibetan momo’s and noodles.
As I then wandered through the various temples I felt that all too familiar tummy gurgle. Oh shit. Literally. A bathroom was needed - fast. Quickly. I did the familiar cheek squeeze shuffle to the bathroom in the temple. It was a hole in the floor. Not even a squat toilet. Even with the anal sirens blaring, I couldn’t aim sufficiently to be sure. So it was a hurried shuffle all the way back down to the entry area where the toilets had (praise be to Buddha) a real toilet. With a seat. Without going into unnecessary detail, it was a spiritual moment.
The look on my face must have been enough to convince the guide we could skip the next temple and head straight to the hotel. As it turned out, it was a single performance and so arrival at our lovely little gem of a hotel was celebrated with beers, a walk around town (with a row of prayer wheels around the whole town) and another fabulously tasty vege dinner
across the road. So it was a prompt walk home after dinner. I will have to sleep in my waterproof undies with one foot out of the bed just in case… I have mentioned before about the risks of motor biking in the Himalayas. I neglected to mention the flying bugs and bees. One mate got a bug up his nose and had to squeeze his nose to kill it and then snort it out all while dodging traffic. A beautiful moment. I had one fly into my helmet and crawl around my hair until it found its way out again. Another rider had a bee hit his face and sting him under the eye. All good fun.
Tomorrow is another cruisie day riding along the river, with my only concern being the distance between (good) toilets. I have two rolls of TP in my backpack just in case I need to squat behind a rock.
My hopes of returning to “3 brown bears” status were cruelly dashed in the middle of the night. System cleansed in a way only a vegetarian diet in India can do.
We gathered for breakfast in the al fresco area of the hotel. A beautiful morning but breakfast was kept to boiled eggs in the hope they could stem the flow. The ride through the Zanskar Valley was, thankfully, not disrupted by a desperate search for a comfortable rock. I did visit a local toilet early on to check on things and it scared my system into semicompliance. Another simple hole with evidence that many who visited did not have good aim. Going forward I took some of the advice of Jack Nicholson in Bucket List - never trust a fart. However, I ignored his second piece of advice as I was happy to pass every public toilet. As for his third piece of advice thankfully sharing a room with my
brother meant it was not relevant.
I’ve previously mentioned how diverse the overall ride has been. Every day brings differences in scenery that are striking. Today was no different. The Zanskar Valley has several rivers running through it, including the mighty Indus. The fastflowing water is a magnet for river rafting, so there are a number of opportunities to float down icy water as it tries to kill you. The geology surrounding the river is a combo of purple (various shades), green and grey rocks - some shiny, some slate, some huge river stones. The forces at play to create this geological marvel must have been quite something!
It was just a leisurely ride, so it was fitting that we stopped for tea in a town called Chilling. When I say town, I mean a single café, and when I say café I mean an unfinished structure that served little besides black tea, instant coffee, and Maggi noodles. We chilled there regardless.
Sadly a short way further along the valley they had closed the road to enable them to work on it over the Summer. We had seen plenty and so we meandered back to Leh. After the leisurely pace of the Zanskar Valley, the return to the traffic of Leh was a jolt. Leh is largely a military area so there are sections of road where military vehicles do whatever they want. Even the airport is a military airport that only allows a few civilian flights in. We fly out in a few days so I’m hoping there isn’t any conflict before then.
We were back at the hotel by 2pm and this time they planned for us by chilling a lot of Kingfisher beer. I was on the soda water as I didn’t want to wake the anal demons. They had permitted me a great ride and...hang on…was that a rumble? Sadly, the demons had already been woken, so a visit to the facilities was followed by a deep afternoon nap while others consumed beers on the kitty money. Damn.
Whilst still nervous, I couldn’t resist the delicious Nepalese vege soup and a few other items for dinner. Let’s see how that works out for me, as tomorrow is a big ride up to 5,800m. Full thermals required. That could prove tricky if the bum demons rage.
day 11 – Leh tO NuBRa VaLLey
Sadly
last night’s dinner did not want to stay with me for very long. Once again, a nervous night fearing every twitch may lead to a disaster that I’d have to explain to housekeeping. Thankfully
there was no further unwelcome activity and so a glimmer of hope appeared for the day’s ride. Hungry, but not willing to risk having breakfast. Even my great love, a dosa masala, could not lure me onto the rocks with its deliciousness…
After another hectic traffic experience getting out of Leh we arrived at the ubiquitous police check. The guy running it was about 15 and wearing casual clothes. Never seen an undercover “border patrol” guard what’s the point of going undercover? Waved through after the usual red tape, we started the long climb up Khardungla to 5,800m. For many years this was the highest motorable road in the world. It has recently been pipped by some South American roads, but Khardungla pass was engineered a long time ago and is still the sentimental favourite, if a road can be such.
As we climbed, the views back over Leh and the valley were fabulous as expected. The clouds were covering the nearby peaks as well as the one we
were climbing. The temperature was dropping by a degree or so every 15 minutes. As we got to the cloud base, it started snowing! Going on a motorbike ride from stinky hot to snowing is a sartorial challenge. Glove change, layered clothing, jacket fully zipped.
As we arrived at the peak of Khardungla the temperature had dropped to around 9 or 10 with a much lower wind chill factor. About -175o Celsius by my rough calculations. We were roughly around the same level as Everest Base Camp, so oxygen was at a premium. Just walking
Left
was a bit of an effort. New respect for Sir Edmund, although he wasn’t an old fat bugger whose idea of exercise is walking to the car to go to a restaurant
The whole peak was swamped with cars, buses, trucks, motorbikes, and people. It was pure havoc as only India can do. Vehicles from either side hooted and honked their way through and people jostled for selfies by the famous sign. So much for the serenity of nature. I was tempted by the toilets at the top just to say I had abluted at that height, but I thought best to let “sleeping bears” lie. And I’m sure the plumbing was at its usual high standard - a hole in the ground. I did see someone peeing from outside the toilet so that was enough of a sign for me to hang on.
We started down the mountain to the Nubra Valley to stop the frost bite before we started losing appendages. Whilst the roads going up the mountain from Leh were pretty good, the ones going down the other side were diabolical! So much so that I managed to slightly misjudge a turn and ended up riding through chunks of broken up rock along the side of the road. I nearly made it through but ended up being bounced into submission and came off the bike (at fairly low speed, thank goodness). Worse, our fearless leader had to lay his bike down to avoid running over me.
All the clothing I either borrowed or bought did a remarkable job and I walked away with no injuries whatsoever. Well, I had a tiny scrape on one of my fingers that I’ll escalate into a life-threatening injury when I tell the story back home. Unfortunately my good mate was pinned under his bike and so I pulled the bike up enough for him to get his leg out. In my story that will become me single handedly lifting the bike above my head to save him. Luckily he was fine, but I had caused his first bike drop, so I doubt I’ll be invited on future tours. Given the size and number of the rocks we fell on, it really is amazing we didn’t hurt ourselves. I hurt myself falling into bed nowadays.
My bike needed some running repairs, but nothing major. Just a whole new handlebar… The mechanics in the support truck leapt out and whipped off the handlebar and did various other things to get my bike up and running. All very embarrassing, but at least no injuries. The cost? $3. For a whole new
handlebar, installed in the middle of nowhere while I waited.
The road just got worse and worse, with long queues of cars trying to pass each other while honking their horns at high volume. The Nubra Valley eventually appeared and, as has been the case every day, was completely different to other areas we had seen. A vast riverbed with sandhills (sandhills? How did they get sandhills here??) which is also famous for having Bactrian camels. I’m sure you know what a Bactrian camel is, so I won’t go into detail here.
The ride was hard. Very hard. We stopped for a late lunch and I fell asleep sitting up. I cautiously nibbled a momo or two and had a Coca Cola to get some sugar into my system. We eventually found our accommodation after a few
attempts, and I basically collapsed into bed (without hurting myself) immediately after an early dinner. A great, but challenging day.
Apparently tomorrow’s ride is even harder. The road has been closed to 4WDs and so we may not even be able to go to our next destination. That would mean climbing over the Khardungla pass again. Oh well, that’s tomorrow’s problem.
day 12 - NuBRa VaLLey tO paNgONg tSO
On the bright side, I woke up to another fabulous view of the mountains. Birds tweeting, sun shining, it’s gonna be a great day (if I can keep my bum shut while riding). No aches and pains from my little lie down on the roadside yesterday. I might wear my
motorbike gear everywhere as I get older. The Hundar Valley was wide but only had a relatively small river through it. We didn’t have time (or inclination) to see the camel colony. We had 200km to cover. We had heard that the main road was closed to 4WDs, but it wasn’t clear if bikes could still use it. Nope. Closed to all traffic so we had to use the secondary (shit) road. Holy Jehoshaphat, what a day of riding challenges. Once again, the scenery was different but there wasn’t much chance
to admire it. Complete focus required as there were any number of things trying to kill us.
Next we had to descend into another valley. The rock formations looked like purple marble with steep walls and sheer drops. There were loads of cars parked on the side of the twisting road, which was unusual. We zipped past them and then found out the reason at the bottom of the valley. It was an Indian standoff (like a Mexican standoff but
with no Mexicans). The company that constructs the roads (BRO) had two trucks loaded with toilet blocks trying to come up the road. The problem was simple. The toilets were wider than the road. So everything came to a standstill. I would have thought someone in the BRO bureaucracy would have done the maths first, but apparently not.
This sort of thing happens all the time, and it is just a matter of time before someone sorts it out. We had wound our
way to the front of the huge line of traffic and just waited, enjoying the views of the purple valley walls. Eventually they moved one of the trucks just enough for motorbikes to squeeze past. So, take heaps of motorbikes and stuff them through a small access point and what do you get? Chaos! Despite the deep influence of the British, the concept of an orderly queue simply doesn’t exist in India. Eventually the backlog filtered through the gap and we were back on our
way. I suspect the cars were stuck there for days
Not much further on we came to one of the ubiquitous “Bailey Bridges”, old WWII bridges that could be set up easily and then moved easily as required. On the other side was another classic Indian moment. A fuel tanker was trying to pass a truck and they both got stuck between the rock walls. No one could get off the bridge. Much yelling and screaming until someone managed to help them get unstuck, but then neither could move because the bridge was full and there were cars backed up behind the trucks on the other side. Once again, enough space was made for motorbikes and so
we managed to get through, worrying only that the fuel tanker might explode if there were any sparks generated when separating the two trucks.
So a few “Indian Inconveniences” in a relatively short time. Then it was time for a few life and death moments along the dustiest, potholiest, most corrugated “roads” I have ever seen - and I live on the Northern Beaches of Sydney, so I know a shit road when I see one.
In one section the dust was thick, but I managed to see a black car hurtling sideways across the road at me. The driver was young and was going too fast and was now out of control as he rounded a bend. He looked as terrified as me as I had nowhere to go. I am not sure how the car didn’t hit me, but there is probably
Left: Road safety isn’t always the main priority up here.
a stripe of silver along his car from my motorbike that matches the stripe of brown in my undies. It was close.
Onwards towards our destination, a beautiful Alpine Lake. Unfortunately there was still a lot of teeth chattering, body shaking corrugated roads to navigate. I think a dentist could put up a shingle along this road and build a nice business.
Then it was sand. Sand is hard to ride through and usually results in arms and legs waving around like those roadside advertising “balloon people”. Just hang on. Just hang on. Just hang on. Made it! It was as if someone had been commissioned to set up a challenge for bikers. After the dust, the seemingly endless corrugation, and the sand came the water crossings. The challenge with these is you have to go fast enough to not get stuck, but you can’t see the rocks underneath. Things may be going swimmingly (no pun intended) until a larger rock basically knocks your front wheel enough to knock you off balance. Further, this particular crossing was not
just a crossing. It was a whole section of river so went for a few hundred metres. Cars got stuck, people got wet, but we all got through unscathed (well, mentally scarred but no physical injuries).
Great, then what? Bumpy, rocky, sandy climbs behind cars that would just stop. Our newbie rider dropped his bike when the car in front just decided to stop for a moment. Really slow speed, so no damage or injury, but another member of the Dropped Bike Club.
After another 50 or 60km of corrugated road we finally arrived at the lake. Whilst I’d like to say it was worth it, I can’t. It was beautiful and the setting sun made the surrounding mountains create a constantly changing backdrop, but it was just a lake and the last 200km was bloody hard work!
Our hotel was a little place in the throes of renovation. It was functional but pretty basic. The staff, however, were 6-star. They ensured we had enough beer to emotionally block the day’s experience. As it turned out, the more beer we drank, the bigger the stories became and the
more fun it was in hindsight. Beer is a beautiful thing. Combined with the views and the setting sun it suddenly all became worth it.
We were at 4,300m, so breathing was a bit laboured. Once asleep it was fine, but most of our gang had a difficult sleep. The sunrise reflecting off the clouds was gorgeous to watch from 4am given we were all awake anyway. It was the beginning of our last day on the bikes
day 13 - paNgONg tSO tO Leh
Last day on the bikes. We woke to the news that we had to start early and backtrack for an hour or two to then turn off to the 5,300m crossing that would get us back to Leh. Backtrack? Over all that shit again?
We saddled up at 7 to try and beat some traffic (traffic = dust + danger). It was pretty nipply up that high at this time, but my personal arctic blubber coating has kept me alive thus far. The return trip along the dusty, corrugated, potholed, etc roads was no more fun than it was
yesterday. In fact, it was even worse given my fingertips were frozen and my right arm dead from all the vibrations yesterday.
After around 90 minutes we turned off and headed up to Chang La pass at 5,300m. A herd of yak wandering around in their showy woollen coats indicated we were getting close. We got to the peak and it was far less crowded than Khardungla but no less cold. The air was thin and even getting on and off the bike was like running a 10k race, not that I would personally know what that’s like so I’m guessing a little here.
Traffic was starting to build and getting down the other side of the pass had a few muddy and difficult moments. Passed a truck that was carrying a smaller cement truck that had become stranded at a dangerous angle when a concrete calvert cover broke. I have absolutely no idea how they will fix that problem, but I’m sure they will.
There was the usual array of army trucks, including a crane truck that blew so much white smoke out of its exhaust that I couldn’t see the 3 riders in front of me. Totally coated in fumes. This one truck produced as much pollution as Australia. Every other army truck blew out huge quantities of black smoke, usually timed to perfection for when you were passing it. Cough, splutter
We finally hit the outskirts of Leh and were promptly reminded that all the danger climbing up over mountain passes was nothing compared to city traffic. At one stage there was frenzied beeping behind us. One of the gang gave the offender the bird and tried harder to block his car from passing. Eventually after increasingly frenzied beeping it turns out it was a police car escorting some dignitary, so we were all waved off the road by a very angry cop.
Most of us had a variety of near-death experiences as we wound our way back to our favourite hotel in Leh. The waiter there saw us arrive and predicted exactly what we needed - beer, chicken tikka, chips and poppadoms. This was the same waiter who, on our first arrival in Leh, told us curtly that it was a “dry day” and we couldn’t have a beer until 7.30pm. He’s come a long way since then.
One of the strange things about Northern India is that each place we stayed had no cold beer, even though they knew 7 thirsty Aussie bikers were
arriving. It was a constant shit fight to find any shop that would sell beer, most of it warm. Of course we eventually trained our support vehicle to try and sort the problem, but it was never easy. So having a fully trained waiter and being greeted with cold beer was one of our greatest cultural achievements on this trip.
So the time came to bid farewell to our guide Keku and his mechanic and driver. Our newbie rider donated his near new, only worn on one trip to the Himalayas, riding gear to Keku who was well chuffed. Tips were handed out, hugs all round, etc before Keku headed off on a 12-hour drive to his home.
So I made it (almost) without a scratch! Some loose bowels perhaps, but that was nothing compared to the possibilities of death or injury I had dodged. A huge adventure in the
Himalayas for a bloke who had never ridden anything other than a Vespa on the roads around my home. I’m hooked. Next trip? Already in the planning…
WORdS: BOB WOzga
Bob Wozga NatIONaL paRkS Why all the rage?
THE WARMER WEATHER IS just around the corner which means it’s time to blow the dust off the box storing the camping gear, air out the tent and sleeping bag. For some, time to get into the bike maintenance, fix those niggly things from the beginning of winter that you promised to do. It’s also time to start looking at places to ride to and prospective places to camp.
One of the things that I hear at BBQ’s, dinners and even on social media sites is “Why are National Parks always closing sections off parks, blocking or closing tracks, even putting locks on tracks to prevent the public from entering with their 4x4’s and bikes. It’s a public park for the public so accessing these places is our given right as taxpayers and no one is going to tell us what we can and can’t do or go”.
Or “It can’t possibly be hard to look after a National Park, what do these people actually do to earn their money?” Often, I must roll my eyes after giving a short explanation and knowing I’m not getting anywhere and need to walk away. They can find it difficult to understand places and tracks are closed for good reasons and the neighbour over the fence generally does not know the answers.
So, let’s try for a better explanation.
Managing 895 national parks in NSW with 4 World Heritage-listed sites covering 7.6 million hectares is no mean feat. Added to that, the provision and maintenance of picnic areas, boardwalks lookouts and tracks as well as protecting culturally and historically significant sites takes a tremendous amount of planning and management. Project managing the renovations of a house can be difficult and frustrating enough. When you consider that Australia has the unenviable claim to having the highest mammal extinction rate in the world, you can understand the importance research, fire management, eradication of invasive plants and animals have not only on National Parks but on the country as a whole. There is method in the madness with how the National Parks NSW are managed.
Tracks and trails are blocked or closed due to a myriad of reasons such as bushfires, just think of 2019 – 2020. National Parks work closely with the Rural Fire Service. The back burning window is becoming smaller each year creating a greater risk as time goes by. The complaint often heard that the RFS can’t access areas due to locked gates is incorrect because the RFS has keys or the combination to open the locked gates. Tracks can be closed due to flood damage making them impassable due to rockslides, washed out creeks and fallen trees. Tracks can also be closed to prevent the public from dumping cars and garbage in these areas. There is nothing worse than finding a burnt-out car and scattered garbage in a pristine location. This also has the psychological effect on you as to whether it is a safe place to stay with your motorcycle unguarded.
Tracks can be closed for the regeneration of sensitive vegetation and to curtail soil erosion. Trailbikes cutting tracks can have a lasting impact on the area that can take years to recover. Tracks can also be closed to conduct research.
With in excess of 1100 plants and animals being threatened with extinction, much needed data is required to identify the distribution of threatened fauna and flora and to direct efforts for their conservation. Maintenance and upgrading of infrastructure may also cause for tracks to be closed.
It should also be noted that not only do you risk a fine, but your insurance can become void if you have an accident or need to be rescued from closed tracks and prohibited areas.
You can ride your motorcycle on public roads, formed vehicle trails and fire trails – the motorcycle is required to be registered and ridden by a licensed rider.
I was recently at Cape Byron Lighthouse to photograph the sunrise and spoke to the park ranger as crowds were walking up the road in the darkness to witness the birth of a new day. The public are generally well behaved however you still get the few that climb over barriers to get their view. One of the things that they must keep an eye on are flying drones around the lighthouse in the early hours. You may ask what risks drones pose, and why you can’t
fly them in these areas? Apart from being a restricted flying area and you are not permitted to fly them within 30m of people nor fly them in the dark, they also create a risk to the bird population. Nesting birds see the drone as an apex predator and can abandon nests. A permit to fly drones can be applied for from National Parks NSW to fly in certain areas.
National parks NSW has a comprehensive website that details alerts for parks whether they are open or closed and reasons for closures. It’s always good to prebook a campsite or cabin and the website so you don’t get caught out turning up somewhere with nowhere to stay.
The National Parks NSW website is www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Each state will have their own website to check out.
The Forestry Corporation has similar policies and information can be found on www.forestrycorporation.com.au/ visit/activities/four-wheel-driving-andtrail-bike-riding
There is always a reason for everything.
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