Adventure Rider Issue #64

ISSUE #64

Adventure Rider Magazine is published bimonthly by Clemenger Media.

CEO

Tony Clemenger

Managing Editor Susan Plunkett

Contributors

Heather Ellis, Andy Strapz, Tug McClutchin, Bob Wozga, Colin Whelan, Lala Barlow, Graeme Sedgwick, Tony Downs, Alan Moon, Marc Hoyler, Sunny Motographer AND others

(If you would like a chance to have your adventure in print = please email susan.plunkett@clemengermediasales.com.au)

Photographers:

Andy Strapz, Heather Ellis, Bob Wozga, Graeme Sedgwick, Lee Boller, Tony Downs, Colin Whelan, Alan Moon, Mark Hoyler, Sunny Motographer, Lachlan Elder

Design Danny Bourke Southern-bear@bigpond.com.au

Subscriptions

Phone: 1800 995 007

Website: www.advridermag.com.au

Copyright Adventure Rider Magazine is owned by Clemenger Consulting –Clemenger Media Sales and published by Tony Clemenger. All material in Adventure Rider Magazine is copyright and no part may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical including information and retrieval systems) without written permission of the publisher. We welcome ALL contributions but reserve the right to accept or reject any material. While every efort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information, Clemenger will not accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for any consequences arising from reliance on information published. The opinions expressed in Adventure Rider Magazine are not necessarily the opinions of, or endorsed by, the publisher unless otherwise stated.

© Copyright Clemenger Consulting, 2024

Articles

All articles submitted for publication become the property of the publisher. Editors reserve the right to adjust any article to conform with the magazine format.

L1 397 Chapel Street South Yarra 3141

P: +61 1800 995 007 tony.clemenger@clemengermediasales.com.au www.clemengermediasales.com.au

Be your own storyteller

It’s important that this magazine refects the Adventure interests and experiences its readers get involved in.

To this end, we value your stories and contributions and ask you all to send more in, no matter how ‘simple’ they may appear to you.

When I frst became editor, I was made super aware that some Adventure riders don’t consider certain trips and bikes as ‘adventure’.

Now I see adventure motorcycling as not being about the bike, nor necessarily the journey, but the mindset.

When I’ve talked to John McLennan about his wonderful Vic trail rides, I get the same energy, passion and keen readiness for ‘what the day will bring’ as I experienced with Lala Barlow and her journey into South America (p. 74 this issue).

For someone who has serious issues that now prevent riding a ‘usual’ adventure bike, getting on a four-wheeler or other variant

Dirty Weekend Rides

In this issue is a story about DWR. The name is utilised by others on and of so please note this is a company that holds the events both in Australia and overseas. Check out a story from them in this issue on page 9.

becomes an adventure –often exhilarating and full of joy.

For Adventure Rider, we urge you to send along your hi-res photos and ride stories. We’ve not had anything from the Northern Territory for a while so, anyone been there recently or heading that way?

For Australian Motorcyclist we seek your favourite urban rides. I’ve mentioned it before but I used to love rides through national park areas close to the city. A Sunday, a interesting winding road hearing bird calls, great pub or café midway. Bring your stories to light, see yourself in print, and share what adventure ideas you have.

Contributions please send to: yourview@clemengermediasales.com.au

Their upcoming rides include:

19 - 23 Feb in Morocco (concluded)

25 - 27 July UK

March / April 2025 in Victoria (Taggerty) To obtain more details, please contact: www.the-dirty-weekend.com

Honda Ramps It Up

Hot on the heels of Jett Lawrence winning just about everything there is to win in American Motocross and Supercross in the last year, Honda has decided that rather than rest on their laurels, they will ramp things up for their customers in a considerable way.

To their credit, Honda has not sat back and assumed customers would simply buy their bikes because Jett is winning everything, they have decided to make the bikes that customers can buy even closer to what Jett is racing.

To ensure that the CRF Performance range continue to lead the category, the CRF250R, CRF450R and CRF450RWE all see major changes to the frame, suspension, engine, and serviceability areas.

The CRF performance line also includes, for the frst time ever, an all-new CRF250RWE (Works Edition) model to complement its bigger brother in the CRF450RWE.

An all-new model for the 2025 model year, the CRF250RWE brings the premium componentry used by Team Honda HRC to the quarter-litre category for the frst time. Inspired by the factory race bikes of Jo Shimoda and Chance Hymas, this special edition (Works Edition) ofers high-level performance right out of the box, with a wide range of race-proven upgrades

This is the kind of shizzle you don’t normally get unless you spend another $5k after you buy the stock bike.

There are fork upgrades, A Yoshimura exhaust with stainless headers and titanium mufer, hand-polished ports, rear shock upgrades, adjusted ignition and injection mapping, and that doesn’t include the sexy stuf that adds to the good looking aspect of things. Naturally, everything comes in red. Because Honda. And that is as it should be.

See your local Honda dealer for details.

CF MOTO 450MT MAKES WAVES

It’s not that long ago that we laughed at Chinese motorcycles coming into the Australian market. Now that CF Moto has well and truly embedded itself into the Australian market, and sales of its bikes are at credible numbers, there is no more laughing.

The new 450MT is very much a case in point, with some dealers having in excess of 20 deposits for pre-orders before the bike was even available. That is simply extraordinary for such a new brand in the Australian market.

The 450MT has been keenly awaited by those looking for a lightweight adventure bike, and many were prepared to put their money down sight unseen to get their hands on one of the frst bikes available in the country.

This says a lot about how far the brand has come in the minds of consumers, no doubt aided by the link to KTM, its part owner.

We will have a 450MT on test soon, and we’ll let you

SUZUKI V-STROM OFFERS

Asif it wasn’t already good enough value, Suzuki has upped its game on the V-Strom 800DE. The new twin cylinder engine machine has turned heads since its introduction and this latest injection of value will make it hard to resist for riders looking for something in that mid-capacity engine range.

The new V-Strom 800DE comes with some awesome upgrades, such as a bi-directional quickshifter, radiator guard, wider bars, gravel mode, and the ability to shut down the ABS on the rear wheel. Add in the Rally Pack and you get a set of barkbusters handguards, a genuine alloy skidplate, and a set of Pirelli Scorpion STR tyres.

See your Suzuki dealer for more info.

know if it lives up to the hype.

For now, get into your CF Moto dealer and have a look for yourself.

2024 Yamaha Ténéré 700 Rally

The2024 Ténéré 700 Rally was another ripper event for owners of Australia’s most popular ADV bike. The fve day ride that started and fnished in Cofs Harbour covered every imaginable type of terrain in all weather conditions. At one stage the route went from slick clay to dusty gravel within the hour… on the same road.

The event kicked of with a presentation and dinner on the Cofs coast which included prize giveaways from event co-sponsor Dunlop as well as a Yamaha goodie bag. The Dunlop team ftted the new Dunlop Trailmax Raid tyres to a selection of machines – their frst test in Aussie conditions.

Rain had lashed the local area but day one started out bright and sunny as 30 Ténéré 700 owners picked up their GPS from event organisers RideADV and aimed for Evans Head the long way round. Several slippery red clay sections kept riders alert, then just before Brooms Head the trail disappeared under water… which meant plenty to bench race about over dinner.

2024 FINKE DESERT RACE

Day two took the group from Evans Head to Tenterfeld – where a treacherous boghole provided some fun before rolling into the home town of entertainer Peter Allen.

Day three saw the group ride from Tenterfeld and back in a big loop… and then onto Inverell via the iconic Rocky River Road.

Day four was the big one – a cruise way out west in the big farm country from Inverell to Walcha. The fnal stretch included a river crossing that caught out one unfortunate rider who took an early bath. But it was all smiles as riders lined up at the Apsley Arms for a fnal feed and prize giving, where people’s choice Steve Parrish who was on his 20th RideADV event was recognised for his frequent fyer status.

The last day from Walcha to Cofs also copped a bit of weather which meant a longer stretch along the Oxley Highway than originally planned. But the group was not fased by the detour and all arrived back with wide smiles. Wally the

There’s something special about Finke. Sure, there’s other desert races, like Hattah, which is also supremely cool, but nothing quite captures the imagination like Finke.

The Finke Desert Race has long been dominated by Toby Price, but with his absence this year it was a race for the ages, with David Walsh taking the win on his KTM 500 EXC-F in a total time of 3 Hours, 38 Minutes and 12.583 seconds.

Callum Norton fnished 2nd, also KTM mounted, with Korey McMahon fnishing 3rd on his Gas Gas, less than 2 minutes behind the winner.

wombat was handed around in good humour – an award for the rider who does the dumbest thing each day.

“The 2024 Ténéré 700 Rally was super fun. The trails had a bit of everything to keep riders focused but best of all it was an opportunity to ride an awesome bike and hang out with a great group of riders over the fve days. Can’t wait for the next one,” says YMA Marketing Manager Sean Goldhawk.

‘‘We have now covered well over 500,000 accumulated kms on both standard and World Raid Ténérés,” says RideADV organiser Greg Yager. “And we have not had any major mechanical issues. In fact we have not even had to adjust a shim or change a spark plug on any of our bikes. This model really has proven to be reliable, which makes our job as tour operators so much easier,” continues Yager.

Keep an eye out for the next Ténéré Rally in 2025 by checking out www.yamaha-motor.com.au/ownership/ blu-cru and www.rideadv.com.au

It’s been 24 years since the FIM World Motocross Grand Prix visited Australia, but next year it will take place in Darwin, thanks to an investment from the Northern Territory Government. The deal with MXGP rights-holder Infront Moto Racing was announced recently, and sees the event locked in at Darwin from 2025 until 2029.

The FIM Womens MX World Championship will also be held at the event.

The racing will take places on a purpose-built track at the Hidden Valley Raceway in September.

“This is big. The MXGP is an incredibly popular and high-profle major sporting event and to be able to host it here in the Territory is a real coup. It’s also incredible to be showcasing the women’s event, which has never before been held in Australia,” said Northern Territory Major Events Company CEO Suzana Bishop.

Motorcycling Australia CEO Peter Doyle said: “Motorcycling Australia is delighted to see the FIM Motocross World

MXGP HEADS FOR DARWIN

Championship make its long-awaited return Down Under. Motocross racing at the highest level is electrifying, and I can’t wait to see the world’s best riders battling it out with Australia’s emerging ProMX stars in Darwin.

“It will be fast and furious from start to fnish, with local and international fans in for an absolute treat. I’d like to congratulate the Northern Territory Government’s Northern Territory Major Events Company and Infront Moto Racing on forming this new partnership, with Motorcycling Australia providing all the support it can to make the MXGP round in Darwin a resounding success.”

The top local talent will have the opportunity to compete as wildcards in all three championship classes, taking on the likes of superstars Jorge Prado and Romain Febvre, as well as New Zealand’s incredible Courtney Duncan in the ladies class. We’re looking forward to seeing young Queenslander Charli Cannon take her on.

You can keep up to date with the championship at www.mxgp.com

SUPER DEAL ON CFMOTO 800MT

Looking for an incredible deal on a new mid-sized adventure bike?

CF Moto’s 800MT is gaining traction in the local market, and to spice things up a little they are ofering over $2,000 worth of goodies if you buy one before July 31.

Every model in the 800MT range is included and scores a free Expedition Essentials Accessories Bundle, and the extras on ofer will help owners push the touring abilities of their bikes to the maximum. What every adventure rider needs is some good quality soft luggage, and goodies available include Hussar soft panniers, dry bags, a Hussar Dufel bag, a pair of Ranger Wilds side bags, CNC oversized alloy footpegs,, a side stand extension plate, and other goodies.

Like all great ofers, time is limited, so see your CF Moto dealer before the end of July.

ANDY’S NEW STRAPZ

The team at Andy Strapz hasn’t redesigned their famous luggage strap in 20 years, and there’s a very good reason for that. Since they frst came out and made the vile, eyeball-pulverizing occy strap obsolete, they have been the pinnacle of luggage planning for riders. If you want to strap something to your bike, you use Andy’s stuf. Simple. Or you don’t, and sufer the indignity of luggage failure and being laughed at by your friends who know you should have used the famous green straps. Regardless of all of that, they have now decided to design a new strap, on the premise that in order to make it worthwhile it needed to be stronger, more adaptable, easier and faster to use, and just plain sexier than the old ones.

And so the Adapta Strapz was born. Still made here in Australia with its trademark stretch webbing, the new strapz have quick release side-release buckles, and they make access to your luggage a snap. They are a breeze to release and re-tention, meaning you can get into your gear and then strap it back up in a jify.

Available from www.andystrapz.com for $63 a pair plus postage.

AUSSIE FLAT TRACK NATIONALS KICKS OFF

With the incredible success of the Aussie Flat Track Nationals (AFTN), the 2024 instalment of the newly developed series will now see winners crowned as Australian Champions after Motorcycling Australia appointed Championship status to the fast-growing segment of the sport.

Back-to-back AFTN Series winner, Michael Kirkness: “I’m proud to have played a part in getting the series of the ground, and to get the sport to this point. We’ve got long races that encourage race craft, and enough races to allow the cream to rise to the top without local knowledge being as big a factor. My win last year came through consistency, and making sure that I scored points in even my worse races. I didn’t even win

the most races this year, but I was there when I needed to be. Dirt track has been a breeding ground for Australia’s best racers and the AFTN is only going to help continue that tradition with Flat Track.”

Despite strong growth over the two seasons to date, 2024 will see a year of consolidation for the series, once again having six rounds across three weekends at Appin, Brisbane and Gunnedah, with a continued focus on track time for entrants and a spectator-friendly schedule at each event.

Series organiser Dave Maddock said. “Although we’ve had overwhelming support from both the riders and the industry in general, we are looking to build the AFTN in a sustainable way for all stakeholders, including the riders, our event partners

PRE-ORDER YOUR BENELLI

There’s some words you may never thought you’d hear, but Benelli dealers are currently taking orders from riders wanting to be the frst to throw a leg over the new TRK 702 models.

According to Benelli, these two new additions to the Benelli line-up embody the essence of Italian design and engineering excellence, ofering unparalleled performance, comfort, and style. We will wait until we throw a leg over them before we sign of on that, but there’s no doubt the quality of the motorcycles Benelli have been producing has imprived over the last few years.

With introductory pricing of $12,990 ride away for the TRK 702 and $13,590 ride away for the TRK 702X, both models come with a factory backed 2-year unlimited KM warranty and 2 years of roadside assistance, and will start arriving into Australian dealerships from late May.

The TRK 702X takes the adventure to the next level, with a host of premium features such as spoked wheels, engine protection bars, handguards, and LED fog lights. It’s the perfect bike for of-road enthusiasts and adventure seekers

and ourselves, so we have chosen to consolidate in 2024, running a very similar season to 2023. This gives everyone the beneft of knowing what to expect in the season ahead. With the current fnancial climate, it’s difcult to fnd additional fnancial partnerships and we’re motivated to reward our entrants for their eforts as much as possible. Additional rounds will require additional funding that we’re actively working on securing, with an aim of growing once again in 2025.”

The 2024 Aussie Flat Track Nationals will kick of on July 27 & 28 with the support of the Macarthur Motorcycle Club at Appin who are proudly celebrating 50 years since the club’s inception in 1973.

With bikes running 19” wheels on American style fat track tyres, riders are able to race over two diferent formats, the traditional fat track style oval and a TT circuit, which includes an alternate layout with a jump included.

In only its third year, the series is rapidly gaining in popularity and creating a resurgence in fat track, and proving extremely popular with riders and spectators alike.

The big twins class also provides a lot of entertainment for spectators, and is expected to grow in competitor numbers this year.

who demand the best in performance and functionality. It’s the ultimate adventure partner engineered for versatility and agility, and ready to conquer any terrain, from asphalt to of-road.

Contact your Benelli dealer for more info.

DIRTY LONG WEEKEND

Sydney to Taggerty, Vic on 2 wheels

Words and Images:

Marc Hoyler

Intro

What makes a great moto adventure? If you’re reading this magazine you’ve probably got your own well crafted checklist…

For me there are a few essentials: First and foremost I’ll need a reliable and familiar motorcycle to get the job done. Ideally I’m heading to a destination I’ve never visited before, with a loose timeline that allows for the occasional wrong turn or unscheduled pit stop and fnally something to look forward to when I’m counting down the kilometers and trying to ignore numb body parts. Riding to The Dirty Weekend delivered on these in spades (another essential tool to put on the list if you’re camping…)

Having ticked the above of I packed and strapped a mountain of less essential items to my trusty Triumph Scrambler and hit the road - destination: Taggerty, Victoria, 800km from the safety of my Sydney garage. u

AboutAt this stage anyone who’s taken on the monotony of the Hume Highway is probably wondering what could possibly make this journey worthwhile, and rightly so.

A few weeks earlier, during some mindless phone scrolling I’d stumbled across a post for Australia’s inaugural ‘The Dirty Weekend’ A trail riding experience focused on good times, good food, and good people - the brainchild of moto adventurer Henry Crew. Not only does Henry hold the world record for the youngest person to circumnavigate the globe on a motorcycle,

he’s also a top bloke who I’d met on the London moto scene a few times over the years. He now calls Melbourne home and having run The Dirty Weekend all over the UK and Morocco he decided Victoria’s High Country was next on the list. Long story short - I had to go.

After some marital negotiations with my very understanding other half I planned out a 5 night round trip that would get me to Taggerty on Friday in time for registration, explore the trails for 2 days and head back to Sydney with a couple of overnight stops.

1

Thanks to a stellar weather forecast and the spirit of adventure (and a tight budget) camping seemed like my best option, so after a quick look at Hipcamp.com.au my frst nights accommodation near Gundagai was booked. Beeline kindly sent me their brand new Moto2 navigation device to road test and after a quick and easy set up it was mounted to the bars, paired to my phone and programmed with my route.

2 petrol stations, 1 meat pie and 400+ uneventful highway

kilometres later, I pulled onto the Old Hume Highway, racing the sunset towards Karoola Station, my home for the night. After endless farm tracks and a few focks of nosey sheep I fnally arrived at the Karoola Lagoon site just in time to unroll my swag, gather enough frewood to heat up my dinner and pile on the layers before it got dark.

With zero light pollution and clear skies the stars put on a cracking show and 5 minutes after zipping up my swag and listening to the river fowing by I was out cold.

SPARK PLUGS

u

DAY 2

After a blissful sleep, a punchy cup of cofee and a little perimeter check ride around the property it was time to pack up the bike and get back on the road.

Thanks to a friendly trucky’s tip of, I headed back into Gundagai to fuel up. Carrying the swag and the rest of my gear dropped the bike’s range to about 200km per 16 litre tank so to combat fuel anxiety I was averaging about 150km stints between stops. With the turn of at Benalla and the prospect of some twisty B roads in site the highway few by.

When I fnally hit the B300 the twistys did not disappointbeautiful country, immaculate roads and barely a car in sight. The higher I climbed, the better it got and with the highway monotony all but forgotten I thundered into Taggerty grinning from ear to ear just in time to register at The Bonfre Station Microbrewery, The Dirty Weekend’s HQ for the next few days. After a quick briefng with the event crew and a bit of paperwork, I rode the last few k’s to the nearby campsite to set up and meet my fellow riders.

While a caravan park may not sound like a taste of the wilderness, Big 4’s Taggerty location sits on the Acheron River and has all the facilities you could ask for, including a bush camping section at the far end - perfect for a bunch of noisey blokes (and one brave lady) on motorbikes. Having done the obligatory lap and drooled over some serious bikes and camping rigs I set up beside the river.

A quick walk around the camp revealed riders from far and wide - and bikes of all shapes and sizes. From lean, bush bashing enduro machines to heavy duty adventure bikes and my somewhat unsuitable Triumph pretty much every manufacturer was represented. It was great to see a real mix of bike loving individuals in attendanceclearly The Dirty Weekend has something for everyone. u

THE DIRTY LONG WEEKEND

DAY 2pm

Intros done and bike gear stashed The Dirty Weekend minibus whisked us back to the Bonfre Station for some liquid refreshments and a hearty feed. Live music from Melbourne based Nick Anderson, a well stocked bar and a couple of roaring fres warmed everyone’s spirits setting the tone for an epic couple of days ahead.

The idea behind The Dirty Weekend is simple - a weekend of ofroading, camping, delicious local produce and meeting like minded folks. GPS coordinates for tracks catering to all abilities and bikes are shared in advance and routes are unguided so riders can choose their own groups and set their own pace.

Of road experience isn’t essential but I’d recommend a set of decent knobbies if you’re planning on staying uprightespecially on some of the more advanced trails. That said a couple of brave individuals arrived and survived on a pair of stock Honda posties.

DAY 3am

With the smell of 2 stroke and bacon in the crisp morning air 50+ bikes and riders eagerly listened to Saturday’s briefng. Local experts All in Dirtbike Adventures were on hand to answer questions and explain fuel drop locations for the day.

As well as local knowledge the All In boys were on hand with a trailer full of spare parts and would sweep the tracks to make sure we all made it back in one piece.

Shortly after 8am, full of breakfast and excitement we set of to put our bikes, nerves and balance to the test. The main ADV route was made up of 120kms of fre trails, gravel tracks, logging roads and a couple of stretches of winding bitumen. Plenty of smaller tracks of the main route provided ruts, hill climbs and rocky descents to challenge the more adventurous riders and get the adrenaline pumping.

DAY 3pm

Safe to say the riders I managed to catch up with were having a blast and for anyone who got too carried away the All In crew were quick to help out with trail-side repairs.

Apart from bottoming out the rear shocks and a few close calls (entirely my own fault) the Trumpy conquered everything in its path. With a hot shower and a cold beer calling I rolled back into camp, my rowdy neighbours had beaten me to it and the next few hours were spent regaling the day’s heroic / hair-raising moments.

The Bonfre Station’s catering team pulled out all the stops with a spit roast pig and all the trimmings, the boys pulled out all the stops with banter and tall tales and good times were had by all until the early hours of the morning…

DAY 4

Feeling rather dusty the next morning I met the two postie riders during breakfast and after a quick chat about route planning I decided to join them. This turned out to be an excellent idea as they were both great company and their leisurely pace suited me just fne. We spent the morning exploring the beautiful ridges and valleys of Cathedral Range State Park before heading back to camp to go our separate ways.

Thanks to an amazing tip from one of the locals, I heard about a free riverside camp in the King Valley a couple of hours ride away which would get me a bit closer to home and avoid the highway. Not only was the camping spot perfect, the C521 mountain pass road from Mansfeld to my destination in Edi ofered up some of the most breathtaking scenery and engaging riding I’ve been lucky enough to experience here in Australia (and a damn fne place it is too).

Soup for dinner next to another river and another fre were the order of the evening and I couldn’t have been happier. u

THE DIRTY LONG WEEKEND

DAY 5

With about 600 kms to Sydney ahead I spent a fnal night camping in Yass. The ride from Edi was mostly highway but a couple of highlights included Moyhu Motor’s, a fully restored 1960’s Ampol garage showcasing period race cars and an excellent fat white across the road at Ineeta Cafe. A big thank you to the guys at Blacklock Motorcycles in Albury who gave my chain some much needed love, squeezing me in free of charge with no notice.

If you happen to be passing through Yass

make sure you stop in at the old petrol station on Laidlaw street. Part museum, part workshop this ultimate man cave belongs to brothers Phil and Paul Dunstall who have been collecting, restoring and racing bikes and cars since day dot. They also love a good chat and showing of their toys - well worth a visit.

The fnal stretch to Sydney came with the inevitable peak hour trafc and made me appreciate the last few days even more.

THE MOLONG TT

DAY 1

Woody runs the TT every year. 2023 was to be the tenth. The frst was, I think, the Tarana TT; then came Oberon. I’m a latecomer: I’ve only attended the Woodstock TT, the Blayney TT, and the Milthorpe. They always run for three days and start the day after Boxing Day. Day one, get there. Day two, ride in company. Day three, get home.

Woody got sick before Christmas 2023 and needed surgery, and I was elected Clerk of the Course. Well, more “appointed”, actually. Guy said “Al, you’re Clerk of the Course”, and everyone else was too drunk or couldn’t be bothered arguing.

I left Sydney at 10:00 Wednesday. My frst stop was Tarana, at around noon. A few years back I met an old guy in Brisbane who grew up in Tarana. He said his family, the Webbs, had lived in Tarana since the 1800s. He said I should check the war memorial for the name

Webb. The Webbs were always ready for a fght, he said, and an overseas trip with a fght at the end spoke to them deeply.

I parked the Kawasaki outside the pub and walked down to the war memorial. Two Webbs didn’t come back from World War I, and two didn’t come back from World War II. I took a couple of photographs, and walked back up to the pub. I had a beer for lunch and drank to their memory.

I went back outside. There was a sweet looking MT-07 and a custom Harley-Davidson parked near the Ninja, and a greybeard looking at them. “Which one’s yours?” he asked.

“The green one”, I said.

He read the fairing. “A thousand cc”, he said. “You’ve done all right for yourself”.

I said I reckoned I had.

“Last bike I rode was in the eighties”, he said. “Great big half trail bike thing.”

“What model?”

“Honda. Four ffty.”

“I remember them”, I said. “They had torsion bar valve springs and it was really easy to scrape bits on the ground when you went around corners.”

“That’s the one”, he said.

Then it was O’Connell, The Lagoon, and the back way west of Bathurst through Rock Forest and Emu Swamp.

Don was waiting at the pub. He lives down south of Bathurst, and he’d driven up on his BMW R75/5 outft. I had a beer or two with him and waited for the others to turn up. Mark, Guy and Steve from Queensland were frst.

Gus, Mitch and Young Gus from Port Macquarie were next. I’ve ridden a fair bit with Gus, and it’s always hilarious. He’s quite deaf. I’ve had long conversations with him and found out later we were talking about totally diferent subjects, and when he’s stopped for

Top: Molong TT Day 1.

Below: The Webbs and the Big One.

Words and Images: Alan Moon

an interview with the highway patrol they can’t understand him and insist on testing him for every drug they have a test kit for.

Mike and Katy from Sydney arrived shortly after. I did a head count. Ten. Good turnout.

We drank a few beers. The only place that served food was the Chinese, so we went there and formulated the Order of Battle. This was, in essence, to meet at the only café open at 08:00 for breakfast and leave afterwards to take the route I had planned.

The company endorsed this plan, so we went back to the pub and I shared a hip fask of Speyside scotch with the whisky drinkers.

DAY 2

Thommo met us at the café. He was riding from Victoria to visit his parents in Queensland and had decided to drop by and say hello. We had cofee and food and mounted up.

It was an eclectic selection of motorcycles. There were three KTMs, two Ducatis, a Suzuki GSX-R, two Triumphs, a Kawasaki and the BMW outft.

Don took the direct route. The other nine of us ¬headed out of town to the west, through Manildra and then down to Canowindra, where we cut across to Woodstock for morning beers.

The Woodstock pub wasn’t open. We stopped there anyway to stretch our legs and cool down. We agreed that the Manildra road was pretty good, and the bit from Canowindra to Woodstock was great.

From there it was up the hills to Wyangala for fuel, and then the Reg Hailstone Way south through Frogmore and Rugby. It’s a fantastic road with a fantastic name. If I had a son I would like to have called him Reg Hailstone. I took a photo of the sign.

Below: First stop: the pub

Top left: Tarana Hotel parking lot. The green one. Above: The Reg Hailstone Way begins at Wyangala. Bottom left: Molong TT Day 2.

with no beer.

THE MOLONG TT

We stopped at Crookwell for more fuel and lunch and beer at the Criterion. The Port Macquarie guys enthused over the road. I told them they ain’t seen nuthin’ yet.

Lunch done, we headed north through Tuena to Trunkey Creek. It’s a TT favourite and everyone except the Port Mac guys knew it. I spent a diverting half hour or so chasing Young Gus’s Desmosedici through the tightest bits. We stopped for afternoon beers at the Trunkey Creek pub. We decided that we would fnish up by cutting a lap of the Mount Panorama race track on the way back.

There was a highway patrol car on the back straight, because of course there was. We completed a slow lap. We took the back roads north of the Great Western Highway to Molong, through Rock Forest and Emu Swamp again.

The pub kitchen was open this time. We dined and repaired to the frst-foor verandah to drink the leftover takeaways. I shared a bottle of wine with Mike and Katy.

I went back to my room and checked up on Woody online. He said his surgery was a complete success and he came close to getting the bike out and coming down from New England to join us.

DAY 3

I left a bit before 08:00. I took the Icely Road for the third time in three days. It’s better heading east. Even the scenery is better. I stopped and took a photo of it.

I went back pretty much the same way I came up. I got home and unpacked a bit before noon Friday. I checked the news to see what had been happening while I was away.

A fair proportion of Queensland was still under foodwater. The prime minister in that state’s hour of need was picking songs for the ABC Hottest 100 radio show. The next council over had decided to pay some Aborigines to drive of evil spirits before the New Year’s Eve freworks on Sunday.

It was good to know that the same people were running the joint.

Top right: Don outside the Criterion at Crookwell. Middle right: Guy chases Al over the top of Mount Panorama.

Right: The scenic Icely Road.

Adventure Riding in Walcha NSW

New England High Country

Walcha sits at the crossroads of two of the best riding roads in Australia, the Oxley Highway and Thunderbolts Way. It’s the southern gateway to New England High Country and some of Australia’s most spectacular scenery and an adventure riders dream.

At 1067m above sea level, there are

great hills and winding roads to get there and hundreds of kilometres of dirt roads to explore across the Great Dividing Range.

To put Walcha frmly on the map for two-wheel adventuring, the town hosts an annual motorcycle rally, attracting riders from across Australia. Organised adventure rides, run by locals with local

knowledge, are held both days. There’s onsite camping, trade exhibitors, postie bike events, enduro x, barrel racing, live music and much more. It’s a great opportunity to celebrate all things motorcycling in a relaxed rural setting, with great comradery.

This year’s program includes attendance by several special guests; including Wendy Crockett and Ian McPhee who hold the Guinness World Record for the Longest journey on a motorcycle in a single country (US) in 2022 and Victorian based adventure skills trainer, Miles Davis, who is one of the most recognisable identities in the Australian adventure-riding fraternity. Early bird tickets and info at www.walchamotorcyclerally.com.au

Images: Bugsy Plowman Photography

New Version

AWords and Images: Bob Wozga

s with all things in this world you cannot hide or get away from evolution. As much as we try and as much as some deny, evolution occurs. Often brought on by innovation. Some innovations are ahead of their time like the light globe that a few worried would have adverse health efects. (Mind you, the early electrical wires in houses had no insulation, causing numerous electrocutions). Some innovations look odd, taking time to catch on,

like the Microsoft tablet that was 10 years ahead of Apple and other innovations were downright ridiculous like a DVD Rewinder. Can – Am is one of these innovative companies that look outside the box with their designs of on and of-road vehicles. Born from the vision of Joseph-Armad Bombardier, the Canadian invented the frst tracked snow mobile in 1937. This led to the creation of BRP - innovations Bombardier Recreational Products.

80 years later, they are a world leader in the design and manufacture of Ski-doos, Lynx snowmobiles, Sea-Doo watercraft as well as Can-Am ATV’s, Side by sides (SXS), of road motorcycles as well as 3-Wheel Vehicles. These 3- Wheeled vehicles may at frst look odd. They may at frst look impractical, however, with all innovations, there is method to the madness. They are a hybrid between a motorcycle and a sports car. Designed specifcally

for those that want to be diferent, those that dream of riding into the great unknown where the sky is eternally blue with the wind in their faces, but are not comfortable on two wheels, they maybe of an older age and feel awkward on two wheels. It’s for those that are worried about pinning themselves against a petrol bowser after slipping on oil or mastering the use of a clutch and gear changes. They are designed for those that may fnd it difcult to throw a leg over the saddle and worry they’ll topple over. The Can-Am Ryker is a perfect alternative for those that may have a dicky knee or poor sense of balance that prohibits them from being on two wheels but still have an adventurous spirit. Above all, they are designed with safety and stability as primary focus enhancing the rider’s confdence. It’s specifcally designed for all demographics – see, method in the madness.

Being a company that specializes in recreational vehicles, it was only natural that BRP would integrate the Ryker into the of-road realm utilizing the technology already employed in their side by side and quad range.

Speaking with a rep from Western Motorcycles, one of Sydney’s Can-Am dealers, at the recent demo day, he tells me the Ryker Rally was introduced in 2024 with the Rotax 900cc engine giving 61.1kW @ 8000 RPM. It has been given increased ground clearance, beefed up front protection, reinforced rims and rally tyres mud faps, skid plate, adjustable handlebars and foot pegs for increased comfort as well as handguards and enhanced lighting. In appearance, it stands out from the standard and sports Ryker.

Beneath the exterior, BRP have added

beefed up suspension and KYB HPG shocks with remote adjustment giving an extra 25mm of play. This allows you to change the suspension settings to your needs depending on whether you are on bitumen or gravel. BRP has also introduced 3 riding modes, Eco mode, Cruise control and Rally mode. The Rally mode limits the traction control allowing you to drift around bends on gravel roads. The automatic CVT with reverse function transmission takes care of gear changes for you giving a smooth ride over rough roads.

The Ryker Rally is not designed nor

Top left: Ryker and Spyder. Above: At the track.

Right: 13 year old Spyder.

marketed as a dirt bike to ride over logs and into tight places, it’s a hybrid between a buggy and a motorcycle and built to be a load of fun. Let’s face it, most people that have adventure bikes mostly ride on highways and gravel roads, sometimes through state forests. The Ryker Rally delivers what it promises.

Being the innovators that they are, BRP have collaborated with Stay Upright and Transport NSW to initiate a licensing scheme for riders who wish to ride 3-wheel vehicles. This scheme, introduced in April 2024, is intended to make it easier to obtain a rider’s license. Piloted in NSW with the intention of being extended to other states will enable new riders

to obtain a license specially for 3-wheel vehicles. The certifcate will have X125 accreditation. This allows you to ONLY ride a 3 Wheel vehicle. Similar to obtaining a drivers’ license in an automatic car prohibits you from driving a manual car. Previously, you needed to get a 2 wheeled riders license that may have made people shy away from looking at the Can-Am’s. You still need to do the pre-learner riding course, pass the Rider Knowledge test and get your learners license where you have 12 months to get your P’s, but it is much easier.

The pre-learner training conducted by Stay Upright which is an accredited motorcycle training and testing

organization in NSW, QLD, Vic and the ACT. A training booking can be made on 1300 366 640 or on the website https://www.stayupright.com.au/events

The Pre-learner course with Stay Upright costs $107:00 and is highly recommended. If you need to hire a 3-wheel vehicle, this can also be organized through the Stay Upright website. This course takes 6 hour that is conducted at the Rouse Hill site.

I recently attended the Can-Am x Stay Upright Demo at Rouse Hill hosted by BRP, Arrow Vane and Stay Upright to get a rundown of how the Government initiative will work.

The pre-learner training takes you

through the motions of familiarizing yourself with the controls. Training was done on the Ryker which is a 600cc Rotax engine. It covers learning to start the machine –yes, there is a short process. Learning to go forward, getting used to the accelerator and brake. Learning to manipulate the accelerator while going around bends, learning to ride in reverse (yes, ride in reverse) and do 3-point turns. We did not get a chance to practice reverse hill parking. The Ryker is automatic with only a foot brake and manual reverse leaver on the left side of the trike that can be manipulated with your foot or by hand. There is a park brake lever on the left side of the trike. An alarm will sound if you try to move without releasing the handbrake. I did fnd it odd not having neither a clutch leaver nor front brake lever on the handlebar. The trike is also driven instead of the traditional ride that most of us are used to. The Ryker, not having power steering, does need a bit of force applied to the handlebars and a bit of lean to get around corners, but this adds to the fun of riding it. A 6-hour training session is ample for a novice to become confdent on the Ryker.

Left: Ryker Sport. Above: Park Brake on the Ryker. Bottom left: Reverse lever on the Ryker.

Once you have obtained your L’s you are ready to head out into the big wide land of grassy plains, eucalypt forests, sandy coastlines neon lit streetscapes. (OK, the neon has been replaced with LED, but you get the drift).

Speaking to Michaela Scott from Arrow Vane marketing representing Can-Am Australia, she informed me that the X125 condition on NSW riders licenses has been efective since November 2022. This was implemented to allow more people to ride 3 wheeled vehicles. Stay Upright has been helping BRP in their discussions with Transport NSW and played a key role in changing the regulation. This in turn makes for safer riding on our roads. Every life saved is a plus.

The range of Can-Am 3-wheeler vehicles are the Ryker – with a 600cc Rotax 2-cylinder engine giving 37.3 Kw @7300RPM, automatic CVT transmission with reverse function. Double wishbone front suspension and a Multi-link mono swing arm in the rear. For safety and security, it has SCS – stability control system, TCS –traction control system, ABS –Anti-lock braking system, HHC – hill hold control and DESS – digitally

encoded security system for its anti-theft system.

As a LAMS approved vehicle, it is a very capable machine. It sits low to the ground, which does make you feel hidden in the trafc. A bit like sitting in a go-cart, ergonomics are comfortable, and the brakes and independent suspension work well making you feel confdent behind the handlebars. Coming from a 2-wheel perspective, I did fnd it unusual to steer the 3-wheeler instead of riding it and found myself going for the clutch and handbrake while riding and I needed to keep an eye on the front wheels to ensure I wasn’t crossing the center or edge line. The revision mirrors reminded me of the Royal Enfeld revision mirrors – They shake to the point where it’s difcult to gauge distances of cars to your rear. It is a trike that you feel you are driving and controlling as opposed to something you sit on and just steer.

The Ryker Sport has a 900cc in-line 3-cylinder liquid cooled engine delivering 61.1 KW @ 8000 RPM.

Above: Red Spyder. Left: Spyder - innovative design.

Top right: A comfortable Spyder. Right bottom: Spyder and Ryker.

Automatic CVT transmission with reverse function. Double wishbone front suspension and a Multi-link mono swing arm in the rear. For safety and security, it has SCS – stability control system, TCS –traction control system, ABS – Anti-lock braking system, HHC – hill hold control and DESS – digitally encoded security system for its anti-theft system. It has the additions of sports-style trims and fnishes, Cruise control and sports mode.

When you want to go out touring, the Can-Am Spyder F3 Limited is the way to go sporting a Rotax 1300cc Ace 3-cylinder liquid cooled with electronic fuel injection and electronic throttle control delivering 85.8KW @ 7250RPM and 6 speed semiautomatic transmission with reverse function, it has ample power to get you along the highways. Front suspension is double A-arms with anti-roll bar and a swing arm in the rear. For safety and security as with the Ryker, it has SCS –stability control system, TCS – traction control system, ABS – Anti-lock braking system, HHC – hill hold control and DESS –digitally encoded security system for its anti-theft system. Other features are cruise control, handlebar control module, integrated hard-side luggage top case with integrated passenger back rest and super sport grille.

You really notice the diference in riding the two variants. The Spyder feels like you are sitting in a chesterfeld with a class of bourbon and a Cuban cigar while you

watch the world go by. The power steering efortlessly glides around bends and the suspension ensures you won’t spill a drop. You could easily ride a Spyder for 7 hours and not feel tired.

All the Can-Am’s can be custom built to cater for their individual colour schemes and individual needs. As an added incentive, customers who purchase a CanAm Spyder or Ryker after completing the rider course will receive a refund on their course fee and unit rental fee (up to $287) and up to $1250 worth of BRP Accessories and a complimentary tank of fuel.

Will the Can-Am gain traction in the Australian market – quite possibly. With today’s social media, community groups of like minded travellers will get together and hold rallies such as the Spyder and Ryker Muster in Bathurst 6th to 8th September 2024. The Spyders will nest and build a web of social contacts around the state and country.

Is the concept of the X125 condition on riders licenses a good idea? With an aging population that is young at heart? Yeah. Is the Can-Am the right choice for everyone – probably not. Just as an adventure bike is not the right choice for everyone. Is the can-Am enjoyable to ride – you betchya.

Is the Ryker Rally a good alternative to a large adventure bike that doesn’t get used to its potential? For those that want to enjoy a ride of the highways -of course.

Is the Spyder an alternative to large tourers such as the Harley Road Glide and Electra Glide, or BMW R1250 or K 1600?

For some people – yes.

Ryker starting at $19,899

Ryker Rally starting at $25,599

Spyder F3 starting at $40,749

Spyder RT starting at $46,349

Thanks to BRP, Stay Upright, Can – Am and Arrow Vane for organizing the day.

heated riding gear Embrace winter riding for year-round fun with

ve never considered heated riding gear, even heated grips, for I had mostly perfected the art of keeping warm on a motorcycle whilst motorcycle couriering in London during the winter of 1994/1995. Layering with merino wool thermals and a denseweave polar feece and thermals under leather pants; a wet weather jacket over my Belstaf to cut down wind chill; wool socks and Gore-Tex sock liners inside motocross boots and winter waterproof leather gauntlet gloves inside handlebar mufs kept me ‘relatively’ warm. But did I feel like the Michelin Man? You bet I did. And my fngertips always sufered on those really icy days so much so that I ended up with chilblains (the stage before frostbite), which left my fngertips, even to this day, extra sensitive to cold.

Fast forward to winter 2024 and when Melbourne-based motorcycle heated clothing distributor Zarkie ofered me the Venture Heat jacket liner (from the US), and Komine EK-200 Protect Carbon heated gauntlet gloves (from Japan), I couldn’t believe my luck. The jacket liner and gloves arrived just in time for a string of cold mornings for my commute into Melbourne from the Yarra Valley when the temperate had dropped to a chilly 1°C on one of those early frosty and foggy mornings. For my day job in communications, I usually work from home, but there are times when the ‘powers-that-be’ say enough to Zoom meetings. Rain, hail, shine; winter and summer, I always ride into the city to save time, the fun of fltering and the convenience and cost-saving of footpath parking (the only Australian state where this is legal). So, the ofer from Zarkie was perfect timing.

Setting up the battery harness to my Triumph Thruxton 900 to power the jack-

et liner and gloves was easy with clear instructions in the Venture Heat manual. After connecting to the bike’s battery, you just run the cable under the seat and using cable ties, secure it and take up any slack so it can sit snuggly to where it’s plugged into the power cord on the bottom of the liner under your motorcycle jacket. The Komine heated gloves came with two converter leads to connect to the cables on the sleeves of the Venture Heat jacket liner making the two diferent brands compatible. If your bike has a power accessory port, you can also plug

Left: To get the most from the heat, a snug ft is critical with heated jacket liners.

Below: The controller for the Venture Heat jacket liner sits just under your jacket. It goes from high to medium after the frst fve minutes, but low ‘green’ kept me warm enough on those chilly mornings.

both the liner and/or the gloves into that. The kit comes with a set of diferent fuses with the manual instructing which one to use for various combinations of heated gear. You could buy the lot: jacket liner, pant liner, gloves and sock liner and be totally wired and totally warm for those long commuters and touring riders. If you just want the gloves, these are also battery powered and come with two rechargeable battery packs that ft snuggly inside a pocket on each glove at the inside of the wrist so you don’t even feel the batteries are there or you can buy the extra cable to plug into our bike if you have that function. The batteries give you 3.5 hours of heat at the low setting (30°C). It would be more than enough for my one hour commute and I could even run on high or medium for a bit, easily turning down the heat by pressing the control button on the end of each glove, which are touch screen sensitive.

On those few chilly days riding into the city with the liner and gloves powered on, I had been a bit worried about the drain on the bike’s electrics, especially while moving slow as I fltered through trafc and the stop go at the various lights. I’d checked the Thruxton’s manual and its electrics had more than enough amps to support the liner and gloves. But just to be sure, I ran the liner and gloves on low most of the time and still felt warm. It was all I needed once I’d reached the city’s fringe.

My leather jacket is a Belstaf-look-alike with a belted waist and once I’d warmed up the bike and then plugged in the jacket liner with gloves plugged in on each sleeve, I immediately felt the warmth ooze into my torso and hands from the heat circulating around the gloves. The built in pre-heat function in the jacket liner

Words & Photos: Heather Ellis

HEATED RIDING GEAR

means if you start of on high, after fve minutes, the liner automatically goes to the medium setting. It also comes with Bluetooth App control so you can operate it from your phone attached to the bike’s handlebars. I skipped this step; it’s just not for me. With my leather jacket belted around my waist, I had a snug ft meaning the heat from the liner was close to my body, but I didn’t get this same warmth radiating down my arms and around the back of my neck. I chose the men’s size small. There are no women’s sizes. Same with the gloves, but with my long fngers, the men’s small ftted perfectly. While the liner fts like a jacket should, it is not snug. And after reading a few reviews on heated jacket liners, these do need to ft snug to work so that the heated carbon-fbre panels are close to your body. Sizing then is critical.

To ensure the jacket liner was properly put to the test, I wore my leather jacket with the liner over a lightweight knit jumper for work. And textile pants with liner over jeans. My usual winter riding gear is a textile jacket with its thermal liner, a dense-weave micro-feece and merino wool top. This combo had always kept me toasty on many a winter ride in the past. On my chilly morning rides into Melbourne that week, once at the ofce, the jacket liner and leather jacket came of as one. On the way home, it was still warm enough that I didn’t need to power up the heated liner and gloves. The liner is also wind resistant and without its powered heat was surprisingly warm. The gloves were just like wearing winter gloves but without the bulkiness. There’s no indication that these are heated gloves and it took me back to my motorcycle couriering days with my beloved Frank Thomas gauntlets, but the Komine gloves are just so much more silky smooth and soft. I didn’t get the chance to try the

Right: It’s easy to change the temperature settings on the Komine Gloves, even while riding.

gear in rain, but both the jacket liner and gloves are water resistant and safe to wear in the wet.

Little did Zarkie know that I had been, for a few winters now, hunting high and low for my ideal gauntlet gloves to replace my Frank Thomas’s, which have lasted nearly 30 years up until recently. They’ve taken quite the beating and while there’s still some warmth there, the waterproofng membrane has long since disintegrated. Unfortunately, UK brand Frank Thomas sold out to the Chinese and gauntlets are no longer part of their range. I’ve checked in many a motorcycle accessories shop for the perfect replacement. Enter the Komine EK-200 Carbon Protect heated gauntlet glove and I was absolutely beside myself. I have this theory that whatever you wish for in life as long as you wish long and hard for it (‘be absolutely committed to your wish’), it will materialise. It is just a matter of time. Even before I turned on the heat, when I slipped my hands into these oh so smooth and silky-feeling gloves, I knew I was onto a good thing. With knuckle protectors and palm sliders, a windproof outer layer and thin insulation inner layer plus a waterproof breathable liner, a secure velcro fastener around the wrist and another at the top of the glove as well as an inside tightener cord, I was one very happy motorcyclist. Once I powered them on, the heat radiated via a carbon-fbre element around my hands, fngers and fngertips. And all was now right and perfect in my motorcycling life.

Those few rides into the city were just over an hour commute with the afternoon ride being warm enough to ride without the powered heat. I needed a longer, much colder ride and so the real test came

Whyearly one chilly Sunday morning long before Melbourne’s weekend riders had stirred. I headed up Lake Mountain in 5°C and a wind chill factor much lower and it felt well below freezing when I reached the top. The things we do in the name of research!

Before my Sunday morning gear test ride to Lake Mountain, a motorcycle mate pointed out it was best I not turn of the bike when up ‘in them thar hills’, just in case the heated gear had sucked the battery of its power and I was left alone between a rock and cold place. Halfway on that chilly ride, I turned both the liner and gloves from medium to low ‘green’, just in case. By now my body and hands were warm as toast and with warm blood pumping to my extremities, I felt no chill in my legs with my Kevlar jeans and thermals and feet in thick wool socks inside my boots. But I didn’t want to remove my helmet, which meant I couldn’t see the built-in controller on the jacket liner and used the bike’s mirror to make this adjustment. Maybe, I should have set up my phone for the Bluetooth App control? As I was riding, I easily changed the settings on the controller on each glove and tried it on high to low at various times. But once my hands were warm all the way to the fngertips, the low setting was more than enough.

The night before at ‘shed night’ over beers with my motorcycle mates it seemed everyone had an opinion on heated motorcycle gear. One couple who tour regularly including Tassie, had used the Venture Heat jacket liner for three winters and absolutely loved it and never ride without the liner on cold days. Most of my friends had heated hand grips on their bikes and advised that’s all you need

heated jacket liners are the perfect partner for leather jackets

It was one of those icy cold winter days riding the Yarra Ranges. Despite the cold, the sun shone down from a cloudless blue sky in all its glory devoid of heat of course. I remember it well. Rugged up in layers under my textile jacket with its thermal liner, I was cozy warm, although the tips of my fngers were chilled to the bone. I was in the zone laying into each tight bend but soon noticed my friend had dropped further and further behind. I pulled over and waited and when he did not appear, I back tracked. He’d pulled over and I found him standing next to his bike, his arms hugging his body. He was experiencing the frst signs of hyperthermia and is it any wonder dressed in jeans, a

as if your hands are warm, everything else feels warm. ‘But are your fngertips warm?’ I’d asked. The question was avoided as none had ever tried heated gloves and the conversation had turned into this ‘fors and againsts’ kinda discussion. It was later, that one friend whispered the answer: ‘No’. What a revelation the heated jacket liner and gloves has been for my winter motorcycling, especially with my hands, all the way to the fngertips, comfortably warm. While I’ve been warm in my usual winter riding gear, the Venture Heat jacket liner means I can cut down on the bulk. I can also now wear my beloved leather jacket in winter. I see so many riders in leather jackets and just a hoodie underneath. They must be bloody freezing. For some die-hards (and I was one of them back in the day), we just put up with the cold, but staying warm means a lot more concentration for a lot longer and that means more control… and more fun. Winter can be long and cold down here in the southern States, and in recent years, a lot drier too. So far this autumn and winter, there’s been a good many days where we’ve been blessed with glorious sunshine and clear blue skies. The mountain roads are dry except for those bends in perpetual shadow (stay clear of the green stuf!), and with heated gear there’s now no need to say it’s: ‘too bloody cold for the bike’.

Venture Heat Bluetooth 12V motorcycle jacket liner: $299

Komine EK-200 Carbon Protect battery heated gloves: $319

Both available from Zarkie. To order online visit: www.zarkie.com.au

hoodie and leather jacket that was somewhat loose around his waist. Light weight summer gloves did not help either. He’d lost concentration and had wisely pulled over knowing a crash was imminent if he’d pushed on. We back tracked to the closest pub, which had an open log fre and over lunch, he thawed out. He’s now moved to Queensland, but I thought of him when I tested out the Venture Heat jacket liner and Komine heated gloves. I also thought of all the other riders I regularly see on the road in jeans and leather jackets riding in winter. Maybe they are made of tougher stock than me. Maybe I’m just getting old and soft. Riding in sunny bluesky days in the dead of winter in our southern states can be deceiving. And in these conditions, it’s the wind chill that is the killer.

Products

ZARKIE HEATED-MIDLAYER-SHIRT

Venture

Heat’s Men’s Nomad Heated Mid Layer is now more efective with its upgraded 7.4V heating system. Carbon fber heating panels on the chest and back target the core. Ofering 3 to 9 hours of heat with USB charging.

Bluetooth HeatSync™ connectivity provides up to 10 temperature settings via your smartphone, plus three standard settings on the built-in controller. Enhanced wattage makes it suitable as a base or mid layer, with heat intensifying under additional layers.

Made from a synthetic blend, it wicks moisture, allows full movement, and is machine washable. This innovative, easy-to-control heated layer is a must-have for winter.

SRP $219.00. www.zarkie.com.au/product/ mens-heated-midlayer-shirt-with-heatsync-black

FÜSPORT ADVENTURE BOOTS; SIMPSON X MOTOZ AND GIBSON X MOTOZ

The Füsport Simpson x Motoz and Gibson x Motoz Boot combines the comfort and fexibility of a road boot with the protective features of adventure boots.

The Simpson is full height, while the Gibson is a low-profle design. Both excel as light duty dual-sport boots, combining of-road features with lightweight construction to enhance rider agility and bike control.

At the core of the Füsport Simpson X Motoz and Gibson X Motoz boots lies its standout feature - the Motoz sole. Motoz, a name synonymous with high performance tyres in the of-road world, has brought their expertise in traction and durability to this unique collaboration.

The sole incorporates their famous Tractionator RallZ front tread at the toe and the signature Tractionator RallZ rear tread at the heel for maximum grip on and of your bike. Additionally, it comes with an increased control contact patch to improve feel on the controls when pushing your machinery of-road.

Equipped with a vintage PU leather fnish and a waterproof, breathable NextDry™ membrane, the Füsport Simpson X Motoz and Gibson X Motoz Boots keep your feet dry and fexible. This motorcyclist-specifc solution ensures breathability and windproof protection, allowing you to stay focused on the road. The double-density sole provides excellent grip on the bike and comfortable traction of it.

A great collaboration between 2 proudly Australian brands

Exclusive Motoz Tractionator RallZ sole!

Improved traction when on the trail or out adventuring

Plastic gear pad protection

PU leather upper

Waterproof and breathable lining

Adjustable VELCRO® brand closures

Adjustable buckles

Extra soft polymer padding with memory foam

Integrated TPU inserts ofer impact protection, and durable buckles keep you secure even during falls.

Embark on your next adventure with confdence and style in the Füsport Simpson X Motoz and Gibson X Motoz Boots, designed to keep you protected, comfortable, and always ready for the journey ahead.

Internal moulded plastic protections (Gibson) Ankle reinforcements Anti-bacterial replaceable foot bed.

Colours: Black or Brown

Sizes: 40 – 48

Shin and ankle TPU moulded plastic protections (Simpson)

RRP: Simpson $219.00, Gibson $189.00 Web: www.fusportboots.com

ANDY STRAPZ RELEASES A NEW STRAP SYSTEM ADAPTA STRAPZ

The crew at Andy Strapz HQ have been banging their heads together, attempting to not to reinvent the wheel and bring us their frst new strap in 20 years… ‘Cause they should.

They set themselves a few parameters, any new strap had to be more adaptable, more adjustable, quicker to use and stronger than their current range.

Enter Adapta Strapz, a cunning combination of Aussie made, thread-through Ladder-Loc and quick release SideRelease buckles and their trademark stretch webbing, Adapta Strapz will ft almost any load on any bike. Access to luggage is almost instantaneous after tension is released and equally quick to re-join and re-tension. Hand made in Australia from the highest quality inputs (what else would we expect from this mob). “The days of $2 eye gougers are long gone, our gear is much too valuable to risk. Not only did I want super secure straps, I wanted fexibility and adjustability as well”. Say’s Andy

Price: $63 a pair plus post

Contact details: ph 03 9786 3445 e mail - info@andystrapz.com

Crossroads

Above: There are quite a few scenic lookouts an all the routes in and out of Jindy. Below: A very slight elevation makes Deon’s Lookout on the Birdsville Developmental Road an ideal place to appreciate the isolation.

Jindabyne, NSW

Australia’s not known for towering mountains and forbidding, snowpacked alpine passes, but the mountains we do have ofer some superb riding for riders on bikes of all types.

Jindabyne, on the NSW side of the Snowy Mountains, is a great example.

At around 900 metres above sea level, it’s no Everest, but the town, built around what is now Lake Jindabyne, is about as scenic as Australian towns get. The air is crisp and clear all year round, and lake and its village are glorious beacons for hikers, mountainbikers, waterskiers, kayakers and anyone who wants to leave the bustle of city life behind them for a while.

No matter which way a rider approaches Jindabyne, the riding is fabulous.

Riding in from the northeast on Koszciuszko Road means rumbling along between the immense grassy paddocks,

Above: It’s hard to beat a blast up onto Kosciuszko on sunny day when there’s snow around.

Left: Lots of Ghost Gums, and the dirt is quite often wet with snow melt, even on sunny days.

Top right: McKillop’s Bridge makes for a good leisurely day ride from Jindabyne. Crossing the bridge and heading through the Deddick Valley, Bonang and Delegate is awesome, as well. It’s a much longer loop, but a good one.

studded with granite outcrops, so beloved by sheep. There’s a great deal of Australian sheep-farming history on show throughout the area, and towns like Berridale are well worth a stop for cofee and a yarn.

As the road begins to climb it begins to wind, until the descent into Jindabyne itself is not only a great, swooping strop, but the views of the lake with its restful promise are sensational.

Approaching from the north and west generally means a run along Alpine Way,

a bitumen road which comes within an ace of the NSW/Victorian border at Tom Groggin – not as bike friendly as it used to be, but still ofering a good campground –just south of Khancoban and ofers fabulous lazy riding alongside various parts of the Snowy scheme.

From Tom Groggin the road sweeps west through Kosciuszko National Park and some stunning alpine scenery, past the Crackenback resort and into Jindabyne itself.

There are some good campgrounds along Alpine Way. Grab your map and have a look. If camping doesn’t suit, there’s plenty of accommodation in Jindabyne, but it’s all relatively expensive – it’s a tourist town, after all.

Probably everyone’s favourite approach to Jindabyne is Barry Way.

The wide, well-maintained, mostly dirt road heads up from Jindy, above the snow line and into the real Man-FromSnowy-River stuf. Ghost Gums line the road in places, the lookouts are awesome, and the riding, while not challenging, keeps a rider’s mind on the job. Once on the dirt the road is often wet with snow melt, especially in the heavily forested areas, and, even in the Summer, a cold snap can sneak up on an unwary adventurer.

Barry Way changes its name to Snowy River Road when it crosses the NSW/ Victorian border, and heading south, takes

in Suggan Buggan and its historic schoolhouse, and gives access to McKillop’s Bridge, another adventure-riding bucket lister. At the T-junction at the southern end of Snowy River Road, take a hard left and hang on. The road down to the bridge can bit a tad hairy on a big bike and downright wild on a small-bore (turning right at the T-junction begins a fabulous run into the heart of Victoria).

Jindabyne to McKillops Bridge and back makes for a great leisurely day ride and should be comfortable on a single tank for most bikes, and the other routes highlighted here can make for excellent short runs, or give headlong thrusts to some other great destinations.

Grab a map and have a look That’s what maps are for.

Not tough enough?

For those keen for a challenge, rock into Jindabyne in Winter.

We don’t recommend it, and it’s no place for riders without a strong survival instinct and the intelligence to listen to local authorities, but even scooting along Kosciuszko Road to or from Cooma will ensure a frosty hypothermia for anyone who hasn’t properly prepared.

The rewards for the adventure rider are huge, though. Especially on a sunny day where there’s good snow cover.

It’s the kind of setting adventure-riding dreams are made of.

Arkaroola, South Australia

There’ll be plenty of readers shaking their heads and wondering where the hell Arkaroola is.

Snuggled in a hollow surrounded by forbidding rock formations about 600km north of Adelaide, the full title of the place is Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, and there should be some emphasis on ‘Wilderness’ in the title.

It sounds good already, doesn’t it?

It is good. For adventure riders it’s way better than good. It’s genuine, heartbreaking Aussie Dreamtime in the heart of the Flinders Ranges, and it sits in the midst of some of the rockiest, most unforgiving red-dust desert this country has to ofer. Arkaroola is an oasis which gives hardy – but not foolhardy –adventure riders the chance to experience the sphincter-puckering challenge of serious terrain without having to cut themselves of entirely from civilisation.

Purpose built

The village at Arkaroola kicked of in the late 1960s when it was set up as a headquarters for conservation in the area. That remains a huge part of the village’s function, and since then ‘roads’ and tracks have been created which give access to some of the most mind-blowing and eye-boggling scenery the Flinders has to ofer…and that’s saying something.

The store/accom/servo/workshop complex is the centre of everything, and the staf there are full-bottle on giving good, sensible, up-to-the-minute advice to the steady fow of adventure riders and four-wheel-drivers who make their way to the place.

Their advice needs to be heeded, because the terrain is unforgiving, and even short distances can create big problems for injured riders and damaged bikes out there.

But the scenery! And the riding!

The harsh rock, sand and dust make for challenges in any direction for those who want them, and the rock wallabies can swarm the roadsides at dusk and dawn. Water is scarce, and time, in general, seems move very slowly. It’s easy to stop and begin thinking about the

Top: Arkaroola. A haven in the stark Flinders terrain. Below: Well maintained dirt roads criss-cross the area around Arkaroola and there’s truly enjoyable sightseeing in all directions.

Above: The village headquarters has everything most riders will need, but the costs are in line with the site’s isolation.

Above right: There’s not a lot to see at Lake Frome unless you fnd a gazillion square kilometres of salt lying on a dry lake bed fascinating. The ride there and back can fll a very pleasant day, but there’s some short sections of deep sand near the lake itself.

vastness of the country and clear, infnite sky, only to fnd an hour has gone by, seemingly in an instant.

That’s Arkaroola.

Out and back

We’ve fudged a little including Arkaroola in this list because there’s no way we

know of to get there which isn’t a huge adventure in itself.

But that’s only a bonus, right?

We’re going to be a little vague here because there’s too much risk in giving specifc advice. Once a rider arrives at Arkaroola, the frst action should be to check in with the staf at the village, and then ask their advice on every travel idea. Current knowledge of track conditions and pending weather changes is vital.

As rough guide on what to ask about:

A run to Lake Frome, a salt lake which is well worth a look

A visit to Leigh Creek and Copley Mine sites, lookouts and trails around the village, and Blinman.

Blinman is incredibly popular with riders and with good reason The snack treats available in the stores are justly renowned – especially the Quandong jam – there’s

accom and historical sites, and the main access on North Flinders Road is well maintained dirt and an easy 250km or so cruise.

But there are some other great, lessfrequented dirt-road options as well.

Do your research and ask the local staf

We’ve made Arkaroola sound like it’s no place for beginners, but getting there from Adelaide can be an easy eight- to 10-hour run up RM Williams Way, which is comparatively safe and low stress, and the unspoiled grandeur of Arkaroola makes the ride completely worthwhile.

It’s the terrain and country around Arkaroola itself which need to be treated with respect (a little awe wouldn’t be out of place, either).

Camping, dongas and fash rooms are available at the village. Call before you head out there to make sure you’re expected.

Birdsville, Queensland

Most riders will have visions of Birdsville born of pics from the Birdsville races and, lately, the Big Red Bash, a music event set against the backdrop of the Simpson Desert.

That is about the state of things. It’s a tiny settlement on the eastern edge of the Simpson Desert, just north of Sturt’s Stony Desert, and on the corner where Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory meet. Visitors should be sure to acknowledge Birdsville is in Queensland when visiting. Being mistaken for South Aussies or Territorians has some locals grinding their teeth.

Birdsville is another of those locations where there’s no way to get there without some level of adventure.

From Queensland riders can track through Longreach – a great stopover –and then choose north-around via Winton and Mount Isa, or south-around through Stonehenge and Windorah

(look at the map and you’ll see what we mean).

Coming up from NSW in the south ofers Innamincka, Cordillo downs and, for the lionhearted, Cameron Corner, the Strzelecki Track and the Birdsville Development Road – around 900km of fabulously rewarding desert, fairly hardpacked dunes and 400km stretches with no fuel or services – while those coming up from South Aussie can elect to visit Maree and Mungeranie, both great locations with good accom and plenty of history to share.

But for most riders Birdsville is the gateway to The Simpson, and the much talked about dune, Big Red.

“Test! One, two!”

We’ve included Birdsville as a great place to drop anchor and set up for a few days because although it seems like there’s not a lot of anything in the town – apart from a superb bakery, a pub, airstrip and some tourist attractions – getting there will take a fair bit of starch out of a lot of riders. But it’s a great place to take a breather and have a look at The Simpson. There’s motel, hotel and camping accommodation on ofer, and if the heat gets a little overbearing a visit to the airconditioned visitor information centre is a good bet. The staf there welcome adventurers of all kinds and are happy to share information on local conditions and trafc in the desert. The dune, Big Red, is about 35km west

of town. Just head out past the police station, being careful not to allow the excitement to manifest itself in excessive speed or, worse still, wheelies, and look for a right turn once the sand begins. It’s sometimes signposted, but souvenir hunters mean you can’t rely on that.

Big Red isn’t really a day ride. It’s probably more like a morning or afternoon fun ride. Head out there and try your luck. Who doesn’t want to be able to say to a gathering of awestruck friends, “Yeah. I had a crack at Big Red. Got up there on the third try.”

Or not, as they case may be.

In fact, for those with experience in u

CROSSROADS

enduro or sand riding in general, Big Red isn’t really much of a challenge.

Of course, a heavily loaded adventure bike is a far cry from WR250F.

The Simpson

Having paid the dues at Big Red, a rider can head back to the T-junction and continue on to get a taste of The Simpson and its dunes, and this is the real paydirt from a ride to Birdsville.

Real care needs to be exercised. Even though a rider will only be around 35km from the town at the start, every turn of the wheel out into the desert ramps up the risk, and the difculties of recovery for bike and injured rider increase

exponentially with every kilometre.

But still, heading out to goof around on big Red, then maybe tackle 40km or 50km into The Simpson and be back in time for a hot shower and a camel burger (a Birdsville delicacy), is a great way to spend a day that will never be forgotten.

As always, make sure someone knows you’re going, when you expect to be back, and don’t go alone. Also, watch out for four-wheel-drives on the dunes. The slopes are steep and carved out by a surprising amount of trafc, so visibility on the dune tops is very limited. The road is mostly only a car width, and an unlucky rider can fnd himself facing an oncoming bullbar with nowhere to go.

The four-wheel-drivers are mostly great people who love to have a chat and share information, so say hello and make friends as often as you can.

Development

The Simpson isn’t the only attraction for riders at Birdsville. The Birdsville Developmental Road is sensational for those with the right temperament. It’s about 400km, and mostly a rocky, fat dirt road that allows some fast travel through limitless desert which is so fat it feels as though the curve of the Earth is visible. Deon’s Lookout is about halfway along and probably rises about 20m or 30m above the plane, but after grinding

through the rock and dust for a couple of hours, it seems like a mountain retreat.

Pinch fats and rim fat spots are badges of honour for riders who tackle the section, but taken at a steady pace, carrying enough fuel to do the 400km with the throttle open, it’s a great day ride from Birdsville to Windorah, and where The Simpson might be overwhelming for some, the Birdsville Developmental Road can be enjoyed by any rider disciplined enough to keep the speed sensible. There’s no real technical challenge, and the desert experience is unique and satisfying.

Windorah’s not over large, but there is fuel and accom there. Make sure to phone ahead and check availability of both.

Designs born from a life on the road.

Most of all, as your lips crack and dry, the airflter clogs, the tears stream down your cheeks as dust gets thicker and heavier and the odometer seems reluctant to click over the next 0.1 of a kilometre, remember why you’re there: you chose a life of adventure, and it doesn’t get much better than this.

(03) 9786 3445

Left: One of outback Australia’s most recognised towns and gateway to The Simpson.

East to Western Australia and Back

Power Trip Sydney To Perth 2024

Words and Images: Sunny Motographer

PowerTripSydneyToPerth 2024 saw yours truly, Sundeep Gajjar (aka MotoGrapher) and Manan Chaturvedi (aka Shuttervedi) ride across Australia: from Sydney to Perth and back. The machines of choice this time were the world’s fastest production motorcycle, a 2017 Kawasaki Ninja H2 and a 2022 Aprilia Tuono V4 Factory 1100.

Route

While we have ridden in Australia a fair few times, it just has so much to ofer that there’s always something left. So, while charting out the route this time, we decided to touch upon a lot of places that we have not been to before. We crammed as much as we could in these 12,000 km. From bustling cities like, Sydney, Canberra, Melbourne, Adelaide, and Perth to the isolated Nullarbor, Pinnacle, and Iron Knob, this road-trip proved to be everything a rider can ask for.

As you can probably tell from the map alone, it was a heck of a trip and we hope our story and images inspire you to take a similar journey to ours. u

Day From To Via

Day 1

Sydney Canberra Via Royal National Ppark and Lawrence Hargrave Drive

Day 2 Canberra Jindabyne Via Snowy Mountains and Charlotte Pass

Day 3 Jindabyne Lakes Entrance Jindabyne Lake

Day 4 Lakes Entrance Melbourne Great Alpine Road, Omeo, Alpine National Park,

Day 5-6

Day 7

Melbourne

Melbourne Warrnambool Great Ocean Road, 12 Apostles

Day 8 Warrnambool Adelaide Border Village, Coleraine Town in Australia

Day 9-10

Day 11

Adelaide

Adelaide Wudinna

Day 12 Wudinna Nullarbor Pengong, Lake MacDonnell

Day 13 Nullarbor Perth Ironbutt

Day 14-18 Perth Servicing, Two Rocks, Pinnacles

Day 19 Perth Augusta Gnomesville, Australind

Day 20 Augusta Albany Cape Leeuwin

Day 21 Albany Esperance Sterling Highway, Bluf Knoll,

Day 22 Esperance Norseman Tiger Jetty,

Day 23 Norseman Madura Australia’s Longest Straight Road

Day 24 Madura Nullarbor Great Australian Bight

Day 25 Nullarbor Ceduna

Day 26 Ceduna Port Augusta Murphy’s Haystack, Streaky Bay, Eliston

Day 27 Port Augusta Yunta Dawson Ghost Town

Day 28 Yunta Broken Hill Silverton

Day 29 Broken Hill Cobar Barrier Highway

Day 30 Cobar Mudgee Wellington

Day 31 Mudgee Sydney Katoomba

SITES and SIGHTS!

Waverley Cemetery

The most beautiful cemetery in Australia? That is what the Waverley Cemetery is often considered to be. One of the shot locations of the song ‘Tanhayee’ in DIl Chahta Hai, which was also one of my favourite movies, this cemetery goes right to the edge of Australia in Sydney.

Established in 1877, this cemetery is counted as one of the most signifcant in Australia, especially for New South Wales since it has many important personalities buried here, including the famous Australian poet, Henry Lawson.

The Newtown suburb of Sydney has been for long one of the most densely populated with artworks. There are designated areas for street artists and the residents take pride in the colours and importance of these artworks.

Sea Clif Bridge, Wollongong

This is the Lawrence Hargrave Drive in Australia, originally constructed in the 1870s as Lower Coast Road, later named after the aviation pioneer Lawrence Hargrave, home to the iconic Sea Clif Bridge. Nestled between the clifs and the Tasman Sea, this engineering marvel stretches 665 meters, ofering views that are nothing short of spectacular. But it’s not just the view; it’s the ride. This road is a ribbon through history and adrenaline, a must-ride for every bike enthusiast passing through this area.

The famous 665-meter-long and 41 meters in height Sea Clif bridge on Lawrence Hargrave Drive was originally built in 2005, so the piers and bridge deck are well away from the rock fall hazard.

Canberra Parliament House

Canberra is the capital of Australia. It is considered to be a relatively boring city but in 2024 it has been ranked to have the second highest quality of life in the world. And that is saying something! This is also the political capital of Australia. The Aprilia Tuono V4 can be seen against Capitol Hill which also has the Parliament house. The fag seen is the largest in Australia measuring a cool 21ft x 41ft atop an 81-meter fagpole! If you are passing through here like us on a much bigger ride, try riding to the Black Mountain which also has the Telstra Tower that rises 195 meters from the summit of this mountain.

Snowy Mountains Highway and Scheme

The Snowy Scheme: Described as one of the civil engineering wonders of the modern world, the Snowy Scheme consists of sixteen major dams, nine power stations, two pumping stations, and 225 kilometres (140 mi) of tunnels, pipelines and aqueducts that were constructed between 1949 and 1974. Just 2% of the construction is visible above ground.

This is the largest engineering project ever undertaken in Australia. This project generates electricity and also provides water for irrigation at the same time. It utilizes the water of the Snowy River. Two towns Khancoban and Cabramurra were constructed for the scheme itself. In fact, Cabramurra is Australia’s highest permanently inhabited town at 4882 feet. It is spread over 5100 sq kilometres and took one hundred thousand people from

over thirty countries to fnish it.

But the direct benefts of this massive engineering project to a couple of motorcyclists like us? Good asphalt roads like the Snowy Mountains Highway and the Alpine Way!

The Snowy Mountains Highway (B72) is a 333-kilometre-long road, starting near Bega Valley in the east and ending at Mount Adrah.

Blowering Reservoir

This is the Blowering Dam Reservoir. It is one of the biggest dams in the state of NSW. It is also famous for being the site for the world water speed record in 1978 when a speed of 511.10 km/h was set by a boat named ‘The Spirit

Top left: Wollongong Bridge. Above: Snowy Mountains. Below: Charlotte Pass.

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

of Australia’ built by Ken Warby in his Sydney house backyard!

Charlotte Pass and Mount Kosciuszko

Mount Kosciuszko is mainland Australia’s highest mountain peak. It is at 2,228 metres above sea level. If you are used to riding in the Indian Himalayas or the European Alps then the Australian alps might underwhelm you but it is still a beautiful area; worthy of a ride visit. Charlotte Pass is the closest village and snow resort to Mount Kosciuszko. It is also the coldest location in Australia with a record low of 23 °C. It is a one-way toll road which means trafc is minimal if you go in the summer months at the right time and the tarmac is amazing!

Jindabyne

Jindabyne Dam is also part of the Snowy Hydro Scheme. Jindabyne is a town that lies on the foothills of Mount Kosciuszko National Park and also has the beautiful Jindabyne Lake which is a popular sailing and fshing destination.

The Alpine Way starts in Jindabyne and ends after 122 km at Towong. You can do these two in a loop, but you cannot really go wrong with any of the roads in this region. In the winter months, many of these roads will not allow motorcycles and cars must have snow chains with them.

“ The danger of hitting Kangaroos and other wildlife such as wombats, is very real on roads like these at dusk. ”

Snowy River Way

There are many beautiful roads in the NSW high country, and many of them are named like in a fairy tale story. The Snowy River Way is one of them. This 108 km stretch starts from Jindabyne and ends in Bombala in New South Wales with many

Left: Great Alpime Road.

Below left: A quick blast around Albert Park.

Below right: Melbourne city lights.

Right: Heading west.

great corners and open country like this. Windmills are also abundant on this route with tall golden grass swaying in the wind completing the dreamy look. The tarmac quality in some places is not good, but nothing to seriously hamper the overall riding experience unless you have a suspension tuned for the racetrack!

The Great Alpine Road is a road that runs from Bairnsdale to Wangaratta in the state of Victoria, for a total of 300 km. It is one of the most famous mountain roads in Australia that has some amazing tarmac and views and is one of the highest all year accessible roads of Australia. However, we did not do its entire length as we joined it while coming from Jindabyne. Dinner Plain, which is at 1570 meters, is one of the highest points on this road with the section at Mount Hotham, just a few kilometers from here being the highest at 1840 meters. Dinner plain is also the highest permanently inhabited freehold village in Australia and it is called so because a weekly horsedrawn coach service operated in the summer months around 1900. They would stop for a midday meal here. The danger of hitting Kangaroos and other wildlife wombats is very real on roads like these at dusk. The risk multiplies in the mountains since these animals come out earlier than sunset since its cooler must faster. A good sized Kangaroo can easily kill a motorcyclist and even veer a big car of-track! So, you can never be too careful.

Lakes Entrance

Lakes Entrance is so named because it was the entrance for ocean-going vessels to access the Gippsland Lakes which are

the largest navigable inland waterway in Australia. This is a town which most people won’t visit but serves as a good stop with many staying options. Also, as you can see in the inset photo, Australian police are serious (and creative) about reducing road accidents and the fnes are high, so you would do well to stick to the speed limits if you value your money.

Melbourne

Melbourne is the second largest city in Australia and the capital of Victoria. It is also considered to be the knowledge and cultural capital with many museums and open-air art districts. One of the best things about this city are its many roadside cafes and the fact that you can park your motorcycle on the pavements unlike Sydney which is relatively bad for accommodating two wheelers like this.

The main photo has the Ninja H2 with the famous Bolte bridge over the Yarra river. Melbourne has many such waterfronts that look beautiful at sunset and beyond it because of the colorful lighting.

The smaller inset photo shows the Melbourne skyline, which surprisingly has

the highest number of skyscrapers, with the total standing at almost 80.

Oakwood Premier Melbourne

Melbourne is also home to many amazing hotels. We stayed in Oakwood Premier, which had amazing facilities like in-room laundry, kitchen and more while afording some amazing Melbourne skyline views. The hotel is also located almost in the

heart of the CBD (Central Business District) so it has all the amazing building vistas around it.

Albert Park, Melbourne

Albert Park is famous for being the venue for the Australian GP on the F1 calendar, which happened just a weekend before we reached Melbourne. This meant that many of the scafoldings and set up for u

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

the GP were still there since this was actually a public road circuit. And I took this chance to ride the whole circuit and even did some slow-speed knee-downs with all the stuf on the bike.

Hosier Lane, Melbourne

Melbourne has a very vibrant outdoor grafti scene. Hosier Lane is one of the hotspots where you will fnd many murals and even live artists as well. The city also has an amazing array of architecture. In inset on the opposite page, Flinders Street railway station is one of the most beautiful buildings in Melbourne. Below it is the Melbourne Parliament where a few movies have also been flmed. The Princess’s Theatre is also a magnifcent building that you should not miss.

The Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road is perhaps the most globally famous road in Australia.

This has been marketed quite well and its proximity to Melbourne and the length of 240 km makes it a good week-long drive for many tourists. This means that it is not really to enjoy motorcycling as tourist trafc can be a lot over weekends and holidays. But motorcycles can flter through the lanes of trafc that one encounters, so it is much less harrowing to do than in a car.

Having said that, the road quality is very good and the vistas are also worth a drive. But for us, this was simply on the way to Perth, so it was a no-brainer. Another downside is the relatively lower speed limit posted in many sections of the road due to tourists.

The photo on this page shows the ‘London Bridge At sunset. There are many such rock formations all along the coast. The bridge itself collapsed in January 1990 leaving just the arch beyond and leaving two tourists stranded on the arch. They

Left & below left: The Great Ocean Road.

Above: The Kawasaki Ninja H2 on the fy.

Below right: Port Augusta.

Right: The road to Wudinna.

Right bottom: Lake MacDonnell.

had to be rescued by a helicopter.

The Great Ocean Road is 240 km long and starts from Torquay in the east (near Melbourne) to Allansford in the west, which is near Warrnambool. It is the world’s longest war memorial. WWI veterans built the road from 1919 to 1932, the dedication to which can be seen at the start of the road (inset photo).

Great Ocean Road

The road passes through diferent kinds of terrain including rain forests. There are a lot of beaches and limestone and sandstone formations, due to which erosion has created some interesting formations to look at like the London Bridge and rugged clifs.

This is called The Baker’s Oven, perhaps named because of the oven-like hole in the island. It is one of the quieter spots on the Great Ocean Road and is great for

watching a sunset! In the inset photo, you can see the 12 Apostles, perhaps the most famous of all rock formations on this road. However, only eight of them remain as the rest fell due to erosion.

Enroute to Adelaide

As you go further towards Adelaide, the landscape starts getting more stark, with fewer greens and more browns and reds. I am quite fascinated by the kind of leafess trees you can fnd from here and in general all over Australia, giving it a very eerie otherworldly look.

Adelaide

Adelaide is Australia’s ffth largest city. It is also sometimes known as the twentyminute city, due to its rather compact nature compared to the previous two metropolitan cities of Sydney and Melbourne. The rolling hills and beaches also provide some great vistas. It also has decent grafti and street art along with some radical lighting on buildings.

Bumbunga Lake

Lake Bumbunga is a salt-lake that also turns pink in spring. There’s also a huge fbreglass sculpture depicting the Lochness Monster.

Port Augusta

Port Augusta is also called the crossroads

of Australia because it is at a strategic position at the junction of three major Australian highways. From here your choice will take you to either Darwin, which is a cool 2700 km away up north, or Perth on the Eyre Highway at 2300 km away, or back to Sydney on the Princes Highway which is 1500 km away! This is also the gateway to Flinders Range. Horrocks Pass Road is a great mountain road that feels right out of a movie. There are also a lot of windmills around here.

Wudinna and further west...

The name ‘Wudinna’ literally means ‘The Granite Hill’ in aboriginal language. This town is known for its interesting rock formations, especially Mount Wudinna which is the second largest monolith in Australia, after Uluru.

Australia is a huge country. It has got huge farms which require machines like these, a Hardi Saritor 7000, which is a sprayer powered by a 300 bhp motor. The feature list reads out of a sci-f u

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

movie - “GeoSelect, the manufacturer’s selective spraying technology which was frst launched at last year’s showcase, and which uses drone mapping of weeds rather than on-machine cameras that add weight.” This looks more like a transformer than a farming machine!

Iron Knob

Iron Knob obtained its name from its proximity to large deposits of iron ore and is also known as the birthplace of the steel industry in Australia. It provides for a MadMaxish kind of landscape from the road level and is just very cool to see.

Penong

Penong is a small settlement at the eastern edge of the Nullarbor with a population of less than 250 people. This has a windmill museum that stands out on this route, giving it MadMax vibes. They also claim to have Australia’s largest windmill (traditional) called the Comet or Big Bruce.

Insert above: Early morning start to our IronButt run to Perth.

Above main: Early morning fog across the Nullarbor. Right: Ariving in Perth 1624 km later.

Top right: Then north to see the Pinnacles.

Lake MacDonnell

Lake MacDonnell is a salt-lake near the Nullarbor plains. It is just 13 km near the town of Penong and worth a visit because of its otherworldly landscape. It is now the largest gypsum mine in Australia on the largest gypsum deposit in the southern hemisphere. Salt is still mined but as a secondary product.

There is also a pink lake here, Lake MacDonnell. It gets its colour from the algae that crop up during the harsh summer months acting as sunglasses to the harsh light!

The Aprilia Tuono V4 Factory 1100 is one of the most capable bikes I have

ridden. Seen here is it traversing one of the many of-road excursions that we took in this region to explore places like Lake MacDonnell.

Into the Nullarbor

Nullarbor literally means ‘zero trees’. It is a huge area that starts in Norseman in Western Australia and fnishes in Ceduna in South Australia. Crossing the Nullarbor is considered to be one of the most spiritual roadtrips in the world. The nothingness beckons you to think about how insignifcant one is. But it is far from boring, the treeless plain section itself feels surreal, especially if you manage to

see it from a drone’s eye. It is the largest exposure of limestone bedrock in the world – an empty expanse that stretches over an area of 200,000 square kilometres. We will revisit the Nullarbor a bit more when we are making our return journey.

The Nullarbor plains can be an incredible place to witness the golden hour. There are over 100,000 camels that are said to roam in the Nullarbor, but we somehow didn’t even see one, even though we traversed it twice on this very roadtrip.

One of the most beautiful sights is to watch the sunrise on the Nullarbor. If you look carefully, you will see a blanket of mist that can prove to be dangerous early mornings.

En route, we also came across a lot of straights and Australia’s longest straight road as well which is 146.6 km straight. However, it doesn’t mean that one can just twist the throttle and go fat out as it is going to cost you a lot more fuel for the same distance and hardly makes a time diference in the end. This means more fuel stops. At every fuel stop, you have to take a photo of the receipt with the timestamp along with the odometer.

Road trains are an integral part of most

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of Australia. They are beautiful man-made creatures, gentle giants and a sight to behold on the roads. They range from 28 to 60 meters. Just for the record, pun intended, the world record for the longest road train was set in the year 2006, one year earlier than my frst ever Australian big lap (that was done in 2007). The road train was 1475 meters long and had 113 trailers.

Overtaking a road train on a motor-

cycle can be dangerous at times. Vacuum and sudden wind blasts upon crossing one can throw the motorcycle of in the other direction and of the road shoulder. Sometimes the road trains are going close to 100 km/h. At night it is sometimes difcult to judge if a road train is coming from behind if it has its top lights switched of, which they do to protect you from their incredible brightness and glare. u

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

When you are parked on the side of the road, and you see a road train that’s going to cross you, hold tight to the bike and your belongings as the wind blast is incredible!

The RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Service) is a non-proft charity organization that provides emergency medical and primary health care services to anyone who lives, works or travels in rural and remote Australia. In August 2020, a plane had to land on the highway at Eucla on the Nullarbor to save a man from a stroke. They did save the man because of this, considering the nearest hospital is 500 km in the town of Ceduna! There are around four widened sections of airstrips on the Nullarbor that are part of the main highway. Another thing to consider is that the Eyre highway is the only road linking

South Australia and Western Australia, and that makes it an extremely important road in Australia.

This is me with the Australian Motorcyclist Magazine which had a contest run to spot me and with 1000 AUD. It was but a perfect moment to get a photo clicked with these fne ofcers in the middle of Nullarbor.

We also used the ADV Worx fuel bladders a couple of times during our IronButt run. If you are looking to get rid of the bulky jerry cans without worrying about not fnding fuel, Fuel Bag from ADVWorx Australia is the way to go about it.

The IronButt almost always involves riding from sunrise to sunset, unless of course, you are doing it in the summer months above a particular latitude where

the sun doesn’t set! Watching the sunset again on the Nullarbor on the same day was a gift!

We did complete the IronButt in a total saddle of time of just 15 hours for 1650 km; from the nothingness of the Nullarbor Roadhouse to the most isolated megacity on planet Earth - Perth.

This was the most beautiful Ironbutt so far out of the four that I have done and one of the easiest for us, even though we lost almost three hours due to a leaky valve in the rear tyre of the H2!

Perth

Perth is a beautiful city. It is hard to imagine how isolated it is. The closest neighbouring city with all facilities that’s not a small village is 2100 km away and it is Adelaide in South Australia. It was founded just 200 years ago, yes, it is that new! It is closer to Singapore than it is to Adelaide. The time diference between India and Perth is 2.5 hours while between Perth and Sydney, it is 3 hours in summer! The time zone of Perth and Singapore is the same!

Above left & above: Mill Brook State Forest.

Left: Stirling Ranges.

Below: The end of another long day.

Top right: Stop for a qiuck photo at Esperance.

Right: Norseman Hwy to Madura.

But once you are in Perth you will forget how isolated it is, it has just fve skyscrapers (buildings that reach a height of at least 150 meters), compared to Melbourne which has 77.

Duxton Hotel

Duxton is a fve-star hotel located in the centre of Perth that has all the facilities that you could want. They were also kind enough to let our bikes be parked right outside the main entrance under the watchful eye of the door usher and the CCTV cameras, even though Perth is considered to be a relatively safe city compared to other big cities.

Supercars meet

The last thing we expected to see was a supercar meet in Perth. This was an open event where kids, families and petrol heads came together in a vineyard in the Swan Valley near Perth. But it was extremely hot!

MOTOGRAPHER’S 4TH IRONBUTT

IronButt is an association based in the USA that started in the 1980s to test man and the machine’s endurance. The most famous of these certifcates is the SaddleSore1600, where we have to do 1600 km in less than 24 hours. So far I have done three IronButts, the details of which are in the inset photos on the right.

My fourth (successful) attempt was on this ride. There’s a detailed video on my YouTube channel that you can watch by scanning the QR code on this page about this attempt. There are a lot of considerations before you attempt something like this, but I will not delve into it for now.

The route was from Nullarbor Roadhouse to Perth for a total of 1624 km. We started at 6 AM in the morning from the Nullarbor roadhouse when it was pitch dark and close to zero degrees. I wore rain gear on top of my leathers that protected me from the icy cold winds. The fuel station hadn’t opened up yet, that’s why we took a witness form from a roadhouse attendant last night at check in. And this was verifed by the IronButt volunteers while assessing my application.

The Ultimate Ironbutt Guide!

The 4th Ironbutt

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

6000 km service

Perth was the end of our frst leg before we had to take a turn back towards Sydney. This was also a good point to do a preventive checkup and service with more than 6000 km done. We got fresh Castrol POWER1 ULTIMATE in both the bikes and a fresh set of Vredestein Centauro NS tyres.

Two Rocks

Two Rocks is a small town en route to the Pinnacles desert, it is worth a visit for its beautiful and rugged coastlines and white beach.

Omeo Wreck

Omeo shipwreck as seen from above. This was a trading ship that was driven ashore in 1905 and has been there since then. This is just 30 km south of Perth and ofers an amazing sunset too!

The Blue Boat House

The Blue Boat House is perhaps the most photogenic spot in Perth. This is actually a boatshed that was built in the 1930s over the Swan River. This river is one of the cleanest inner-city rivers in the world.

The Pinnacles

The Pinnacles is a must-visit if you are in Perth and even remotely, pun intended, interested in photography and a roadtrip. This will give you one of the most surreal backdrops for your machine as you can drive through this section of the Nambung Desert with any road bike. It is 190 km north of Perth and can be done in a day. They are 30000 years old limestone outcrops.

The Pinnacles marked the end of our leg 1 of #xBhpPowerTripSydneyToPerth

Left: One of many Australian trucks out here called Road Trains.

Below left: The Great Australian Bight.

Below: Another early start.

Right: ShitboxRally cars crossing the Nullarbor.

Far right: The Nullarbor Plain from above.

Heading East...

From Perth we start riding back towards Sydney, but from a diferent route. We went down south via the coast and en route we hunted for the Giants of Mandurah, which are giant outdoor installations made from recycled wood to celebrate the extraordinary beauty and the importance of protecting our natural world. Then there was Gnomesville, in the middle of nowhere at a roundabout, thousands of gnomes placed by thousands of people.It is quite an interesting sight.

We saw a sign saying Australind and immediately thought something was going on. And as we suspected it did turn out to be a name amalgamating the two, which was chosen due to the belief that the area could be used for breeding horses for the British Indian Army.

Mill Brook State Forest

Millbrook State Forest and many other forests are en route to Augusta in this area. There are inroads that you can take to really take in the wilderness.

Lake Clifton Thrombolites

Lake Clifton is in the beautiful Yalgorup National Park. At the edge of Lake Clifton, rock-like structures called thrombolites (similar to stromatolites) can be seen, built by tiny micro-organisms believed to resemble the earliest forms of life on Earth. Scientists have suggested their

presence here may be due to upwellings of fresh groundwater high in calcium carbonate. (Source Wikipedia)

Augusta

One of my favourite towns in Western Australia is Augusta. The Augusta boat harbour is a great place to go with a motorcycle, you can go right to the end of this pier with the bikes.

Augusta Cape Leeuwin Light House

It is beautiful and Cape Leeuwin is a landmark that should not be missed if you are on such a roadtrip. It is the most southwestern point of the Australian continent, beyond this there is just Antarctica in the south or Africa in the west.

Albany

Close to the city of Albany is the Torndirrup National Park which has rock formations over 1300 million years ago! At the place called the Gap, you can literally feel something supernatural with those vertical dramatic clif drops, and the layers of rocks packed into columns with the water violently splashing down below. It is insane and one of the best coastlines I have ever seen.

In Google satellite view you can see a plane and a windmill in this unbelievable resort in the middle of nowhere. In both of these people can stay at a hotel. This was quite unexpected and made for an amazing backdrop in this area.

Stirling Ranges

The Stirling Ranges National Park was a welcome surprise. We went a few kilometers inside on unsealed roads but the

whole approach and place was dreamy.

Bluf Knoll

Nearby you have the highest mountain of this region - Bluf Knoll, at 3600 feet above sea level. A ride to the summit is one way and highly recommended.

Esperance

Esperance is one of the most beautiful towns we came across on our roadtrip. It has some of the most beautiful beaches in Australia with turquoise water, pure white sands and extremely dramatic rock formations and coastlines. But the best part about this town for motorcyclists is The Great Ocean Drive…

But before we move on to the best part, we want to thank Hospitality Esperance SureStay for a wonderful stay at their hotel. Our rooms were also facing a tank that was donated by the Australian Army. This Leopard tank was used to train the army and never actually participated in any wars.

Great Ocean Drive

The Great Ocean Drive near Esperance can be mistaken for the Great Ocean Road which is thousands of kilometers away in Victoria. This is actually a 40 km loop, but in these forty kilometers, you will see incredible winding roads, beautiful coastlines rivalling its bigger namesake, dramatic coastlines and some of the best beaches and rock formations in all of Australia.

From Esperance head to the Twilight Beach road towards the west that turns into the eleven-mile beach road crossing by the Pink Lake (that unfortunately doesn’t turn pink anymore) and u

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

eventually ends back in Esperance. If you do this on a sunny day with a slight breeze and fews clouds like we did then prepare to come close to riding nirvana. Just try and skip weekends or public holidays.

Mad Max country

This photo from near Norseman on the Eyre highway sums up Australia through the sealed outback. It shows the next very rest stop where you have a table and maybe a couple of trees. In between there will be nothing.

The road train is probably hauling something from a quarry a few thousand kilometers away. The wind draft from this is enough to blow the helmet of a motorcycle from the other side. In the inset photo you can see a double- decker livestock hauler which is a typical sight for this country.

The road quality is mostly very good, without any potholes for thousands of kilometers unless there has been an accident. This is critical since repairs in these areas would be extremely expensive and any accidents due to potholes can cause huge losses to the government’s reputation and wallet if sued and proved in court.

The cloudless sky with the harsh sun is on point with the reddish soil completing the rustic look.

The Great Australian Bight

And then there is the Great Australian Bight, which is a huge open bay just south of the Nullarbor. In some places, it comes very close to the road itself ofering spectacular views and very high clifs that just drop into the southern ocean. The Great Australian Bight came into existence

Left: Traveling through Ceduna.

Below: Enjoying the view from the Elliston Clifftop Drive.

Right: the amazing road through Horroks Pass Port Augusta.

about 50 million years ago when the supercontinent Gondwana broke apart, separating Antarctica from Australia. You can also spot whales if you come here in the right season.

Even though it is not recommended we more often than not ended up riding through dusk and into the night risking colliding with animals big and small. This is not a joke as there are plenty of horror stories of motorcyclists and car drivers getting into a big soup. We even had a

“ If you do this on a sunny day with a slight breeze and few clouds like we did, then prepare to come close to riding nirvana. ”

couple of road trains swear at us for riding in the night due to the dangers posed by these seemingly cute postcard animals. Out of these Kangaroos and Emus can be the most dangerous as they will often cross you and they are incredibly heavy and strong. A big fun fact - none of them

can walk backwards, so the only way for them is forward even if they are afraid of you. And both are national animals representing how the country is supposed to move ahead and develop.

The Shitbox Rally

We encountered something unbelievable on the Nullarbor. It was a convoy of more than 200 incredibly quirky cars. This was the Shitbox rally which is an annual charity event held in Australia where participants drive old and “shitbox” cars across some of the most remote and challenging roads in the country. The rally raises funds for cancer research and support services.

It’s not just about the journey; it’s also about the creativity and fun participants have with their cars, often decorating them in outrageous themes. It’s a unique way to combine adventure, philanthropy,

and a sense of camaraderie among participants.

Each person has to buy a car for just 1500 AUD and then spend some more money on mods and safety and drive it to raise funds for charity. It was truly a unique experience that reminded us of MadMax!

FURTHER EAST…

Murphy’s Haystack

Murphy’s Haystacks are a unique geological formation located on the Eyre Peninsula in South Australia. These impressive granite rock formations have been sculpted over millions of years by erosion, resulting in large, rounded boulders that resemble haystacks or piles of giant marbles. The story goes that someone saw these rocks from a distance and thought they were haystacks. The land then was owned by

a man called Murphy. Hence the name! Unbelievable, right?

The photo in the inset shows another solo adventurer in a self-sustaining van that was going around Australia.

The Eyre Peninsula

The Eyre Peninsula is not on many people’s lists when going across Australia on a motorcycle. Even though I have done the big lap three times this was the frst time I planned to visit and see a bit of this. It has close to 2000 km of coastline, which is a lot, so I was restricted to going down to the town of Elliston and then cutting across towards Port Augusta.

One of the most stunning drives that we came across on the trip was the Cliftop drive, though this is just 12 km drive just north of Elliston, the insane rugged and dramatic coastlines make you feel that you are in a Game of Thrones movie.

SYDNEY TO PERTH & BACK 2024

The massive sculptures on the clifs lend a very diferent feeling to this whole area. Elliston Jetty is also a very picturesque place to visit and take photos of. It is also very fascinating and has lots of wonders to discover.

Australia’s abandoned sites

Goyder’s Line is an important demarcation in South Australia, identifed by George Goyder in the 1860s, which delineates the boundary between areas suitable for agriculture and those better suited for pastoral activities due to low rainfall. This line, extending in a rough arc across the

state, marks a signifcant climatic threshold; regions south of the line generally receive sufcient rainfall for cropping, while areas to the north experience arid conditions, making them more appropriate for grazing livestock. Goyder’s Line remains a critical reference for land use planning and agricultural practices in the region.

Dawson is an abandoned town in South Australia that serves as a poignant reminder of the challenges faced by settlers in the early 20th century. Established in 1882 during a period of optimistic agricultural expansion, Dawson

was part of a broader efort to settle and cultivate the arid lands of the state’s interior. However, the town’s location north of Goyder’s Line made it prone to drought and unsuitable for sustainable farming. Despite initial growth and development, persistent water scarcity and poor crop yields led to its decline. By the 1930s, Dawson was largely abandoned as residents moved away in search of more viable land and opportunities. Today, the remnants of Dawson stand as a testament to the harsh realities of farming in marginal environments.

We had to ride around 40 km one way on unsealed roads without seeing even one single soul to visit this place that had two churches and a town hall. All abandoned.

Yunta, the barrier highway

Yunta, on the Barrier Highway, was one of the most unexpected night stopovers for us on the remote Barrier Highway. We got very late because of some valve issues in the H2 and we had to fnd a stopover, luckily we somehow reached this small town with just one motel and two fuel pumps. The motel was full but we were helped by getting a lodge in worker’s

Above: Dawson Ghost Town.

Left: The Silverton Hotel, the land of Mad Max. Top right: Barrier Highway, Broken Hill.

Far top right: On the road to Mudgee.

Right: The last day of the trip, to Sydney through the Blue Mountains.

rooms which were also decent and only 10 AUD for a night! This money went to the Royal Australian Flying Doctor service as a charity, we were told.

But since we had nothing to do in this town, we shot some night photos and watched the Milky Way. We also got to know that Yunta doesn’t have main electricity from the grid but uses a series of diesel generators to support itself!

Barrier Highway, Broken Hill

This is the Barrier Highway near Broken Hill. In the inset on the left page, you can see strange things like trees with soft toys. This could be as a memorial to being just something so that the visitors remember their town. You can fnd such trees in a few places in remote NSW. On the right inset photo, you can see the Broken Hill Solar Plant.

Silverton

Most of the Mad Max movies were shot around Broken Hill in remote NSW with places like Mundi Mundi Lookout that you can actually still ride to. Silverton’s connection to the “Mad Max” franchise has made it an iconic destination for motorcyclists, ofering an exhilarating blend of cinematic history and thrilling riding experiences. The town’s rugged landscapes, featured in “Mad Max 2: The Road Warrior,” attract motorcyclists like

me, eager to traverse the same terrain as the movie’s characters.

The Mad Max Museum, with its extensive collection of flm memorabilia, including iconic vehicles and motorcycles, provides a unique immersive experience. Additionally, Silverton’s frequent “Mad Max”-themed events and the dramatic, open roads of the surrounding outback create a sense of adventure and community, making it a must-visit for fans and enthusiasts seeking to embrace the spirit of freedom and excitement epitomized by the flms.

If you are lucky, you will fnd some quirky vehicles based on the MadMax movie here as well. We got late and just reached when the sun was about to set, otherwise we would have shot a lot more at this iconic location.

Cobar

Cobar is Australia’s largest producer of copper and this is the Cobar mine from a bird’s eye view Mining is one of the most important industries of Australia and the size of this mine is incredible, at 1.9 km deep!

The last day

The last day saw us ride through the Blue Mountains and into Sydney, concluding our cross-continental roadtrip. The last day was a contrast to the days earlier, having lots of clouds and mountains. Australia is truly a vast country with a lot of variations, but the huge distances make it something to remember for a lifetime!

Pub of the Month Steampacket Hotel Nelligen’s

Words and Images: Colin Whelan

Right at the start, let’s get the ‘g’ in ‘Nelligen’ sorted. The name’s apparently based on phonetic versions of the indigenous moniker for the locality and in the very early days was known variously as Nellican and Nellikeng. So the ‘g’s pronounced hard like the ‘g’ in ‘gonad’ and NOT soft as in ‘vagina’.

As I’ve written previously, if it’s good enough for David Attenborough to treat an ants’ nest as a single organism, it’s good enough for me to occasionally treat a pub and its community as a unifed entity. This is one of those times.

So I’ll get to the pub – which is no longer in the village - in a bit but if you’re coming west on the Kings Hwy up from that roundabout just north of the Batemans Bay bridge, just as you cross the Nelligen bridge you’ll see the village on your left. Just take a swing at the frst on your left and it’ll wind down to the township.

If it’s a weekend or Wednesday, there’ll be a swarm of bikes parked along Wharf St, from out front a low slung grey place with a sign under its bull-nose announcing it as the “Old Steam Packet”. The line-up’ll stretch here from the Nelligen Café on the bridge-end corner and it’s the café that brings the riders to town.

For the last three months it’s been owned by a Thai immigrant Ratcha (or ‘Bull’) and her husband. They arrived in Nelligen ten years ago and she got job in the kitchen of the pub. Things were going great until the pub changed hands and she and the new owners didn’t quite mesh. She quit and was out of work until

her previous boss told her the café was hiring so she applied, got the job and fell in love with the vibe and the custom.

Six months ago the café went on the market, Ratcha and her husband mulled it for a bit, put in an ofer which was accepted and by the end of February it was theirs.

In the warmer months it’s open 7 days but over winter closed on Tuesdays and Ratcha works ever day it’s open.

“I love it. That’s why we bought it, I love the café and I love working here with all the people. Especially the weekends and Wednesdays when the bike riders come. Without them we wouldn’t have a business. We wouldn’t survive. They come from Canberra and Nowra and from down south and we always serve them with a smile and

Bottom

Top left: Meals going out.

Below left: Steampacket Kids’ Corner.

Bottom right: Steampacket Table Tennis Beer Garden.

happiness. They look after our business,” she adds, “so we must look after them.”

Riders at the next table, who’ve been listening with lazy ears, call over and vouch for the job she and her crew are doing. Up until the 1960’s the main queues in Nelligen out front of the Café or the Steam Packet weren’t from customers. They were trafc waiting for the ferry across

the Clyde from ramp out front of the pub. When a new bridge was proposed the township banded together stronger than a termite mound to have its location shifted. The original proposal involved the removal of an old burnt-out gum at the end of town and the locals weren’t about to stand for that.

Just shy of a century earlier the Thomas and John Clarke led a bushranging gang that preyed on the locals from Braidwood to Moruya. In 1867 they were captured and chained to this same tree until a ferry arrived to take them on a cruise to Sydney where they were all hanged in Darlo Gaol in June.

Anyway the locals won. The bridge was shifted and it opened in 1966. Problem was, the foundations were shite and it was soon found to be unsafe. So new geniuses designed a new one which opened to trafc in Feb ’23 but much of the approaches on the down-river side are still works-in-progress.

The Old Steam Packet down in the village is the third iteration of the village’s

The frst was put up in 1861 but was demolished by its owners at the turn of the 19th century and replaced by “an imposing two storey timber” building. In the 19 teens they leased to one William Priddle who managed to get some nation-wide publicity for the hotel and the township.

In early March 1917 he was hit with a list of illegal trading charges and Priddle was summonsed to appear in the town’s own Police Court. Back then local Justices of the Peace could elect at their leisure to sit on the Bench for hearings alongside the Police Magistrate. Priddle obviously used his time judiciously because when his case came up, four of his JP mates crowded onto the top table.

The cops cried ‘foul’ but the quartet refused to vacate. The prosecution announced an adjournment but the Justices insisted on hearing the case. No prizes for guessing that Priddle, who ran the only place in town where the Justices could get a drink when they knocked-of, was found not guilty.

hotel.

Above: Nelligen Steampacket.

left: Jake in Bar.

The Crown sought to have the verdict annulled on the grounds that the justices were “bias(ed)….. that the Justices were personally incompetent … (and) that the … orders were procured by the wrongful, indecent, and fraudulent conduct of William Priddle and others acting in his interest and on his behalf.”

Papers from Townsville to Melbourne to Perth covered the story. It was, the Crown argued, “a pure case of stacking the Bench.” Well of course it bloody was!

The appeal in what became known nationally as the “Nelligen Case” was heard by the Chief Justice of NSW in August and by then Priddle and his Justice mates had all their stories sorted and the licensee escaped scot-free. Another great victory for a small town that sticks together.

The Old Steam Packet Hotel was sold in 1925 to a Mrs Neate who flled the place with ‘cedar furniture treasured in her

family since the 1830s.” Reports said, “it was indeed a fne hotel”, but then on “the disastrous night of June 29, 1925 … it burnt to the ground in 20 minutes.”

Mrs Neate didn’t waste time mourning and took over the former cheese factory just down the street and soon opened it as the Old Steam Packet Hotel, version number 3. She kept it for over 40 years but the opening of the bridge (iteration number 1) spelled doom for the pub in the village so she auctioned it of on December 10th 1966 and, ever the business woman, used the funds to build iteration number 4 a mile up the road. It’s that version that still stands as a private residence opposite the old wharf in Wharf St in the Nelligen village just down from the café.

Steampacket 4.0 has had a few owners since Mrs Neate opened on the new site in 1967 but in November 2022, after fve

years of giving it a crack, the couple with whom Ratcha had trouble working, put the place on the market. The following January it was bought by the Meem Collective, a company headed by Ben Johnston and Kalina Kolof which’d owned a few pubs and currently has the Dickson Tavern and the Old Canberra Inn in the ACT.

One of their frst moves was to headhunt Jake who was hard at work reviving a pub in Vietnam. One of his frst moves after starting on July 1st ’23 was to get rid of all the gambling in the pub and on a Saturday arvo which is promising to shift from busy to manic, Jake pulls up a stool and takes up the pub’s story.

“It was closed for nine weeks after we took over as we stripped it back, made changes to suit our vision and it’s still a work in progress. Next step is reopening the accommodation rooms upstairs.

With the Big4 across the road there’s a bit of a captive market and with that we have responsibilities. We’re hyper aware that many people travel with their children. So we have an obligation to provide a safe, enjoyable and welcoming space for everyone from solo bike travellers to groups of families to grey nomads travelling in groups.

The company’s central ethos is we are gambling-free, family-friendly and safe, we value our relationships with our staf and with our locals, plus of course our

Above: Steampacket Bar.

Left: Jungle Room.

Top right: The busy beer garden.

customers all of whom keep us in business.”

For riders that extends to things like welcoming mud-spattered dirt riders to the main bar where the foor of locally sourced grey stone covers ‘a myriad of sins’. In addition to the smoking area out front and the huge beer garden at the rear, there’s the ‘jungle room’ ftted out with chesterfelds you’ll sink into and a

Somewherefoor of polished timber only discovered when Jake was ripping up the old carpet and intending to replace it. Your muddy boots are best left out of this part.

Food and music are two foci dear to Jake’s heart and the upscaling of the menu is a delicate balance of fner food whilst continuing with more staple

along the way, the Steam Packet became the Steampacket but let’s not bitch about the disappearing space.

Its new owners are missioned with making the pub as friendly to every demographic as possible apart from pokie addicts and gamblers. Planned additions are going to turn this place from Motorcyclist Friendly to full on Motorcyclist catering and that’ll take it comfortably into 5 helmet category.

There’s a dozen beers on tap with GN at $8.50 a schooner and others stepping up to 11 bucks for the range from Capitol Brewery. The food is top shelf but unpretentious and everyone working in the place seems to genuinely enjoy it.

For character I have it 4/5 and for value, without accommodation being available just yet, 110 where 100 is benchmark.

For Motorcycle Friendly, it’s a solid 4 helmets but stay tuned.

Steampacket Hotel

oferings. First night I had 3 cheese aranchini, crispy eggplant, gochujang with sesame and chicken wings in a jalapeno and maple dressing. Very damn fne. Second night it was local Clyde River oysters followed by house-crumbed schnitzel. Equally good.

There was live music in the bar both Friday and Saturday nights and when u

963 Kings Hwy, Nelligen, NSW 2536

(this, of course) means it’s 9.63kms from the Princes Hwy)

T: 02 6421 1092

www.steampackethotelnelligen.com.au

F: Steampacket Hotel

The River Café 1 Wharf St, Nelligen T: 02 4478 1153

Open 8.30 – 3.30, Closed Tuesday until Summer

RATED 4 OUT OF 5 HELMETS RT

Steampacket Hotel

963 Kings Hwy, Nelligen, NSW 2536

(this, of course) means it’s 9.63kms from the Princes Hwy)

T: 02 6421 1092

www.steampackethotelnelligen.com.au

F: Steampacket Hotel

A top class place to kick back before or after your ride though with the support they get from riders, maybe a visor cleaning kit wouldn’t go astray.

Big 4 Caravan Park 970 Kings Hwy, Nelligen

the weather warms, larger ensembles will be in the beer garden on Sunday arvos and of course the landmark Nellijam will be back next January.

With its massive carpark which’s seldom empty of a bike trailer, Jake’s looking at installing gear lockers and secure parking for bikes. He’s open to suggestions of just what riders are after so when you’re there, have a quiet word.

Nelligen’s (remember ‘gonads’) fourth iteration Steampacket Hotel is in the good hands of grounded, knowledgeable and capable visionaries who’re doing a great job already but who’re destined to make this place even more of a go-to rest place and destination.

Disclaimer: Contrary to general industry practice, I didn’t seek any payola or special treatment but Jake insisted on shouting me dinner and two wines the second night. His generosity hasn’t clouded my comments in this article.

Around3ish on Saturday arvo the riders start fling into the pub’s carpark. I’d chatted with Jakob and a few mates in the morning before they headed out to ride the trails north of the Kings Hwy starting at Old Nelligen Road.

They’re semi-regulars who’re down from Canberra and’ll be heading back tonight. They’re members of a Facebook page and a post’s gone up that someone’s planning a ride down here so they’ve just rocked up as a

change from riding Cotter and the Brindabellas.

They’ve had a top day, and obviously headed into most of the muddy bits that I’ve been riding around. The mud’s caked on their engines and frames. Normally would stop by the pub but they have to be back in Canberra tonight so they get changed in the carpark and head out.

They’re soon replaced by Lachie and his mate Tom who’ve been riding other trails and river crossings. Tom’s folks have a holiday home down at Bateman’s and have come up to buy them dinner a bevy at the pub before they split. They too love the place, It’s Lachie’s frst time but already he’s itching to get back.

As the sun sets many of the trailers

have gone and those left are loaded and waiting as their owners warm themselves in front of the pub’s fres and mull they fun they’ve had.

Then they drift of, replaced by two AFL women’s teams who’ve played down the road and are now flling the beer garden whilst inside locals pack the bar and the Jungle Room.

The Steampacket, is a true community hub but one which makes all visitors, all riders feel like they’re the special guests of the day.

Above: Camping of Clyde bend

Top left: Nelligen riders in bar.

Top right: Dirt Bikes at the Steampacket. Left: Jakob pre-ride. Right: Nelligen Boots and Fire.

The Rides to Nelligen

There’s any number of great rides, both hard top and soft around this pub. Years ago I did the Braidwood-AraluenMoruya-Nelligen-Braidwood loop but any info I have from that ride is way out of date, so here’s a comfortable, scenic and varied way to get there from further up the coast.

Might sound strange but before you try this, check the tides for the south coast. If it’s been raining heavily or the tide’s going to be anything over 0.6 metres an hour after you leave Milton, you might want to consider your options.

Heading south on the Princes, go through Milton and take a right at the Old Bakery south of the town. Decent food here but it no longer takes cash so if that’s an issue keep going because not far up at Woodstock - don’t google this because you’ll get the other Woodstock in NSW - you’ll see the Milk Haus on your right. It’s closed Mondays and Tuesdays but it serves small-footprint food built around home-grown vegetables and eggs and sourdough bread from the Kraken bakery up at Woollamia. Check that place out next time you’re at Jervis Bay.

Soon you’ll pass Kenny’s Rocket on your left. Built by the inimitable Kenny Sperring, a true local character with whom I’ve shared a few good times and to whom this month’s article is dedicated. Kenny passed away March and his send-of was as memorable as the man.

The bitumen lasts for 16kms until the turn-of for Clyde Ridge Road. When this track to the west is closed at Native Dog Creek Bridge, there’ll be a fairly reliable sign posted at the intersection. I kept on ahead until, about 4kms further, Brooman Rd branches to the right, signposted Nelligan.

This is a good option if you have time otherwise stay to the left onto Monkey Mountain Road which leads back to the highway. I wanted to drop in to the East Lynne Store for cleanser and some oysters but turns out they’re closed at the moment. “Taking a Break” said u

Above: Braidwood Nelligen Loop. Below: River Road. Bottom left & below right: Typical road & bridge crossing.

PUB OF THE MONTH

the signs out front and “Check FB for re-opening”. Damn.

So a quick right onto the Old Pac Hwy – very diferent to that weekend refuge of Sydney’s shackled working riders – and then climb up to where it bends left into Barkshed Rd for a pleasant stretch down to Shallow Crossing. This is where the tide warning bit comes in. If the Clyde is in food or the tide is over 0.6 the water at the crossing is going to be over 0.3 metres. If it’s fooding then there’ll be a strong fow but if it’s not and you time it for the top of the tide, then it’ll be deep but bereft of current.

This marks the highest navigable point for the old steam packet boats and I spent a decent half hour searching without success for signs of the 1919 public wharf where they’d tie up. If anyone has any clues, please let me know.

The causeway’s topped with good rough aggregate giving good traction and is mostly moss free. Across the fow is the Shallow River Camping Ground where you’ll be welcomed by signs advising it’s private property and “No Motorbikes”. Ignore the sign and ring the number. It’s there to weed out the dopes who cut up the camping surface and all non-idiot riders are welcome. Good showers, cooking and other amenities including frewood.

The road’s now changed to “The River Road” and it kisses the river a couple of times before an intersection with Black Flat Rd of to the right and up a decent climb. Your choice here, as they say all roads lead to …..

Black Flat is about 7kms longer to the Kings and you get there further from the pub. The River Rd is, for mine, prettier, touching the River 3 or 4 times, and with another causeway crossing before running alongside for a stretch. Both times though, just turn left on the highway when the public servants escaping Canberra let you in and then just keep heading til you see the pub on your right, Big 4 Camp on your left. Rolling bitumen, easy gravel, picturesque river crossings stunning giant trees, plus a couple of options for decent feed. What’s not to love? Time for a cold one.

Above: Milton to Nelligen via old Pac and Shallow Crossing Below: River Road crossing food debris.

Above: Nelligen Village. Above right: Ratcha from Nelligen Cafe. Below left: Cafe Menu. Below left: Nelligen Old Ferry Wharf and bridge.

Above left: River Road creek crossing. Above right: Monkey Mountain Rd. Below left: Milton Bakery. Below right: River and Black Flat intersection.

Adventuring South America Solo

Part 1 : Bolivia : Escape from the World’s Highest City, Are You Sure this is Fuel? and Camping on the World’s Largest Salt Flat

Words and Images: LaLa Barlow

This was my worst nightmare. One of the situations I`d dreaded from the comfortable confnes of my cozy bedroom back in Melbourne Australia, whilst I sipped on a Chai Latte and thumbed through yet another ‘Motorcycling in South America’ blog. This moment. Right now. Expensive beverages and exhaustive blogs are great but they don’t prepare you anywhere near adequately enough for the moment you fnd yourself on your side because your engine has failed, with your motorcycle on top of you, in the middle of heinously steep road, amid the morning trafc pandemonium in La Paz in Bolivia whilst attempting to fnd an exit out of the deep cavernous valley of the world’s highest city whilst keeping up with your two new riding buddies, whom you can no longer see in front of you.

No.

I was not adequately prepared but how could I be?

As always, direct experience is proving to be the most masterful teacher when traveling on the road long term, on a motorcycle.

It had been 43 days since I left Huanuco in Peru, overwhelmingly overloaded on my 250CC Chinese Moto, launching into

the adventure of a life time; riding South America solo for one whole year. Four years of drooling and dreaming, two years of meticulous planning and hours upon hours of imaging myself in the wilds of Patagonia and saving every ounce of money possible had culminated in this; my solo quest from Peru to Ushuaia and beyond! I’d already navigated the rustic roads and high passes of the Andes and whilst she was very slow, my moto, endearingly named the Ladybug, was handling well. My fuel injected, water-cooled, almost exact copy of a Honda CB500 was proving she had adventure riding chops and every day I was growing in confdence, resilience and skillset. With only three years of riding experience behind me and the mechanical prowess of a waterlogged ball of hair, I was under no illusions that there would be situations throughout my year where disasters would strike, breakdowns would occur and I’d be forced to plant my feet in the dust and wave my arms to the motorcycle gods for help.

So far, whether luck or lack of time spent on the road, the Ladybug was purring with a consistent and reliable contentment and traversing the Andean altitudes of Peru for two months, was truly the stuf dreams are made of.

Right: First day of the Salkantay Trek in Peru and I found myself at 4000m overlooking the majestic Humantay Lake. More mirror than lake, more another planet than earth. How many times can I say WOW in a minute. u

Left: The famous Dakar Monumnet at the Salar de Uyuni. Home to the world’s largest salt fat and obligatory stop off point for anyone visiting this vast, otherworldly and mesmerising location.

Even when my frst day of riding demanded I ascend almost 5000 meters to the altiplano of Cerro de Pasco and down to Tarma, I took a deep breath and hit the accelerator. The challenges starting out were relentless and yet they were peppered with a terrifc hailstorm of perpetual gratefulness that this everyday adventure, this full throttle sensory soup, this everlasting deep breath of abandonment, was now my life? Yes, it was. I wondered many things inside my helmet as I made my way across the Andes yet again, from Nazca towards Cusco. Notably, where were all of the other foreigners traveling overland on motorcycle? Almost two months on the road and I’d not sighted a single one. I pondered this question for a series of weeks and then the universe answered my prayers. After braving the slippèry cobblestoned streets of Cusco and hiking the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, a delightful duo on motos fagged me down enroute to Lake Titicaca and suggested we join forces to navigate the dicey border into Bolivia. Gabi, a 57-

Above: Another high Andean Pass on the road, and it’s raining but I’m grinning like a lunatic. Stopping for a big smile and a photo atop Abra Chaucha at 4727m near Huancayo Peru.

Top right: Overwhelmed by Peruvian drivers, overloaded, inadequately hydrated, and about to climb over Cerro de Pasco at 4300m. A casual frst day on the road of my year long adventure!

Right: Two faces I will never forget! Gabi from Germany and Jack from South Africa.... Or ‘mum’ and ‘dad’ as I affectionately called them!

year-old wild hearted woman from Germany, and Jack, a 65 year old seasoned traveller from South Africa, were all I’d been praying to the motorcycle gods for. Gabi had also purchased a Chinese JCH Tarki 200Cc from Around the Block Moto Adventures in Huanuco and shared my anxieties about the border, as she was also a foreigner traveling on a Peruvian bike, which according to the ‘letter of the law’ in Peru, was let’s face it, illegal. She was traveling for 6 months and her brand new little JHC was named Llama. Jack had purchased a Hero XPulse 200 (actually an Indian bike assembled in Colombia) and was on his way to Buenos

Aires. The two had collided endearingly in Cusco and hit it of. In fnding me, we baptised ourselves ‘Los Tres’ and The Three Musketeers was born. Humorously, many locals and travellers would incorrectly assume us to be a motorcycling family as we roamed on our collective six-wheel trifecta. “Yes, I am their daughter” I’d smugly reply with a cheeky grin as I nudged ‘dad’ in the ribs and gave ‘mum’ an afectionate shoulder squeeze. The ‘border buddies’ successfully passed into Bolivia, enjoyed three vacation-esque days in Copacabana and then journeyed into the belly of the World’s Highest City, La Paz. We braved death road, marvelled

been

for

Above: A destination I’d

dreaming about

four years. With two signature llamas and an unbeatable grin atop Rainbow Mountain in Peru at 5200m.

Below: My frst interaction with a local mechanic complete and proud of my basic interactions entirely in Spanish!

at the scope of this sprawling metropolis on the Teleferrico and delighted in the worlds cheapest and tastiest trucha (trout). Gabi and I also braved peak hour in La Paz (which I can confrm, is all day long) and went in search of a reputable mechanic. My forks had been leaking since Cusco and the Ladybug was also in need of an oil change. Navigating La Paz on moto can be summarized in two words: unbridled chaos. I’d sooner liken it to playing a video game or being a hyper-cafeinated character inside one of those virtual reality headset games. I’d pinch myself as a reminder that this was life, but there’s barely time to react to hazards, let alone reach for an available and willing skin-tag. When arriving in La Paz and bringing up the rear of our trio, I stupidly hesitated for a millisecond too long as I was crossing the intersection, which hilariously resulted in my becoming wedged in between a Herculean truck transporting livestock and a ‘Mr Bean’ looking vehicle that had a lounge suite dismally strapped to the top. The Ladybug has two very useful however fairly wide rear racks and my hesitancy resulted in a pickle of pickley proportions. In the words of butt-tastic Beyonce, I hollered for a local to hoist my backside ‘to the left, to the left!’, as the furious driver of the truck waved his fannelette fst at me, a dozen chickens few through the air overhead and I saw my life fash before my eyes! Was I really

u

Above: After a month and a half of riding alone and not seeing a single overlander on a motorcycle, I was thrilled to happen across my ‘border buddies’, Gabi and Jack.

Left: Leaving Peru and entering Bolivia! My lovely Ladybug overlooking beautiful Lake Titicaca.

Right: Somewhere, who knows where, on the dusty highway in Bolivia heading towards the Salar de Uyuni. We’d escaped La Paz that same day. The relief was indescribable!

going to die here wedged between a road-train and mobile sofa? A 60 something year old bowler-hat brandishing Bolivian woman AKA ´my hero´ fashed me a priceless toothless grin whilst she grabbed my rack and heaved it a magical centimetre. I accelerated away, whooping for joy and flled with a newly spiking adrenaline. I will never ever, ever forget the cheeky rapture in that woman’s triumphant smile.

Five days later, a mechanic had been found, my forks no longer leaked and it was now time to ´sink or swim´ our way out from the bottom of the world’s highest fshbowl. Which brings me to my current predicament. On my side, on the ground, holding on to my moto on an angle hairier than a Scottish Highlander, attempting desperately to fnd an even remotely navigable way to leave La Paz. No sight of Gabi and Jack. Three men are running toward me and shouting. There´s a mule carrying six children stumbling towards me. I exhale, unaware that I’d been holding my breath. Who knows how long for. I release my grip on the handlebars for a moment and my Ladybug starts sliding backwards.

Help.

An hour later, after being hoisted upright by three men and Gabi and Jack had returned, we´d managed to wrangle some assistance from a local on a motorcycle who graciously led us the ´secret’ way out of La Paz. My Zongshen was coughing and spluttering like a teenage boy being told he has to watch Bambi on repeat, and it was at this point that I began to realise that Bolivian fuel may be lacking substantially in quality. The journey over the next few days took us along the vast, windswept and dustilly barren roads where we stayed a night in Challapata, before arriving in Uyuni; home to the famous and eerily Instagrammable home of the world’s highest largest salt fat. The roads weren’t terrible by any standards but the poor quality fuel was playing havoc with my Ladybug, and she relentñessly resisted sitting into second and third gear as I patted her gently and whispered uplifting mantras. Throw a couple of weeks riding at 3500 meters plus into the mix and you´ve got a nice recipe for a temperamental moto. As Jack and I stood by the side of the road with our plastic home-made funnel, pouring yet another container of dubious post-mix fuel that smelt like bongwater into my fuel tank whilst three mangy dogs snifed around my exhaust, I smiled at the rustic charm of riding Bolivia. The difculty in obtaining fuel (let alone, quality fuel), the uninhibited pandemonium in cities, the severity of the altitude, the complete vastness of the landscape, the primitive and slightly reserved charm of the Bolivian people and the overwhelming sensation that I was here living my dream, had me stifing a tear or two….. If only I was hydrated enough for my tear ducts to produce water.

Upon arriving in Uyuni and checking into a nice hotel with one of the best breakfasts of the trip so far, I foated an idea to my riding companions; let’s go and camp on the salt fat! Rumors and iOverlander recommendations had spread of a famed cactus

Top left: Tents up, hot water for noodles on the boil, thermals on, gloves at the ready and unbeatable company. Settling in for an evening of stargazing at 4000m. An unforgettable evening in Bolivia.

Left: Are you sure this is fuel? Jack (dad) and I tempting fate with an expensive and murky roadside top up from a smiling local. Could my motorcycle run any less sluggishly if this wasn’t fuel? Probably not. Let’s do it.

Top right: After meeting Yoni from Panama and Marlene from France who are riding 2 up, we decide to camp together at Isla Incahausi in the middle of the salt fat. Now we just need to fnd it!

studded island located 80km from the Salar ´entrance point´ and I was hooked on the idea. My compatriots didn’t require much convincing and soon we were loaded up and riding along the glistening surface of a huge lithium salted battery. Dry season meant that the risk of wet salt corroding the engine, electrics and unleashing mechanical mayhem on my Ladybug was minimal, however I´d read many a story of the risks associated with riding on the salar, wet season or dry! In the end, the desire to camp on a location not dissimilar to the moon won.

The ride along the honeycombed hexagonal expanse of hard packed snowy zest was up there with the most memorable moments of my 38 years on earth. If this moment were a song, it

would be Nessun Dorma. Engine purring. A gentle throttle. Lungs fying high at 4000 meters. The magical ´fow state´ fooding your veins that only straddling a motorcycle can generate. Nothing to the horizon but three fgures (we picked up Marlene and Yoni, a couple riding two-up at the Dakar sign), synchronistically intertwined in the same elemental transcendence that defes the everyday mundanity of life. Adrenaline. Peace. Dopamine. Magic. And yes, in case you were wondering, the next morning, I stripped bare naked for the perfect social media content. The Salar endearingly gifted me with heatstroke. Cute. Did you even visit the Salar if you didn´t prance around in your birthday suit?

Muchas Gracias

Words by Graeme Sedgwick.

Pictures by Graeme Sedgwick and Lee Boller.

After more than twenty days and almost 5000 kilometres riding with a bunch of global characters who shared an irrepressible singlemindedness for a motorcycle adventure, I felt forever changed.

From our 360 degree view high above Santiago in the glorious Sky Costanera, we raised a glass and barked Muchas Gracias to an extraordinary journey that had stretched and rewarded.

Thanks to Compass Expedition’s Juan Farias and Agustin Yaconis who gave us a life time of unforgettable storytelling.

Roll back three plus weeks.

After a familiarization ride that immersed us into the Chilian coastal locality of Iquique’s trafc mayhem, we certainly found that our lead rider Agustin - who quickly became known as ‘Gus’ to his newly inherited comrades from Canada, Germany, United Kingdom, United States and Australia - could ride!

Our adventure shot south down an expansive coastal highway of sweeping bends for 250kms fanked by the massive uprisings of the Cordillera de la Cosa mountains and the wilds of the South Pacifc Ocean under a cloudless blue sky to Tocopilia.

As we rode, we could sense how special this adventure ride would be.

Away from Tocopilia eastward, our frst rising up the Cordillera progressively revealed the hauntingly beautiful Atacama Desert’s landscape where we rose further toward the Cordillera Domeyko foothills that form a part of that unbroken rampart called the Andes. That stretches almost 9000 kilometres from the continent’s southern tip to its northern most on the Caribbean.

It was a fantastic wheel chasing afair across moon like expanses where we’d been told it hadn’t rained for over 400 years and then

Left: START: Riding south from Iquique fanked by the massive uprisings of the Cordillera de la Cosa mountains and wilds of the South Pacifc Ocean.

Below left: Glass Tower Sky Costanera - Santiago.

Above: San Pedro - Accommodation.

Below: Enroute to Ollague.

we were plunging between stark rock formations enroute to the wonderful adobe village of San Pedro de Atacama. Archaeologically recognized as the capital of Chile, our accommodation brought food and libations and much camaraderie and laughter among the group.

An intriguing outpost, San Pedro de Atacama sits immediately west of the

inactive volcano Licancabur which rises close to the border of Chile and Bolivia. It’s a sort of hippy town, spotted with markets and a myriad of accommodation, together with many great places to eat. In sum, an evening atmosphere that’s alive, unthreatening, instantly peaceful and ideal if one feels the want to sip Pisco Sours.

The Pisco Sours cocktail is comprised of a type of brandy, lemon juice, sugar syrup and egg white that’s prepared by being vigorously shaken in a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. The drink is then poured into an old- fashioned glass garnished with Angostura bitters and served straight

up without ice. A refreshment Chile and Peru claim ownership of as the originators, with Bolivia having its own variant.

Away from San Pedro, our passage scooted well-paved roads northward through the Atacama towards the former mining town of Ollague at 3990 metres above sea level. This passage boasts stunning plains surrounded by snowcapped peaks and volcanoes that delivered massive sensory overload together with no shortage of reasons to pause for picture taking opportunities. As we moved between dramatic peaks incorporating the composite volcano of San Pedro - historically one of the world’s highest active volcanoes at 6000 plus metres -intermixed with del Azufre at 5849 metres and Palonana at 6023 metres

Left: Ollague ‘Hold-Up’.

Below: Other riders at Paso de Jama Border.

Below right: Picnic for Kings.

Right: Return to San Pedro.

enroute. Today Ollague is not much more than a remote border crossing, freight rail-line interchange, sitting before its own name sake’s peak rising above 5800 metres.

On the other hand, Ollague, to the unsuspecting, immediately assumes the perfect streetscape location for a Harry Alonzo Longabaugh shoot-out (think Sundance Kid outlaw and a member of Butch Cassidy’s Wild Bunch). Where we overnighted was a rustic, picturesque homestay that held an eerie feel of those could-a-been wild-west days.

Little did any of us expect dawn’s arrival would present a Hold-Up that would belittle anything Butch Cassidy’s wild bunch could match. Yes! A Border-HoldUp complete with ofcials questioning the authenticity of our documentation as well as our Spanish speaking leaders Juan and Gus credentials. Both these led to Border Ofcials refusing the group’s passage from Chile into Bolivia.

To suggest the situation in the moment was an underwhelming bureaucratic nightmare is an understatement. The patient diligence Juan and Gus applied to try to avert the predicament was breathtaking.

The aftermath brought forward plenty of opinions as we were forced to re-ride

the proceeding passage in reverse providing a second and diferent viewing of volcanoes and snow-capped peaks enroute back to San Pedro de Atacama. However, this was a blessing for some who’d found their frst encounter with the efects of rising altitude a little more breath snatching and debilitating than they had anticipated.

Back in Australia, the Compass Expeditions brains trust were madly conferencing with their on the ground crew Juan, Gus and another long serving colleague Tomas who upon learning of the inconvenience of being turned back at the border had jumped on one of his bikes to knock over a few hundred kilometres to be in San Pedro to assist sorting a re-routed journey. A ride as it turned out that would entail a lengthy day in the saddle and have us rising further over the

Chilian landscape’s bisecting the Andes through Argentina which wasn’t originally part of our itinerary into Bolivia.

In all hardly a challenge for a bunch of irrepressible riders buoyed by the new journey briefed by the all-nighter’s who had created the remap: a ride that could only be described as a riders best deal with the inclusion of Argentina. Spirits and enthusiasm reinvigorated and keen to conquer what lay ahead over almost 700 kilometres, departure was swift toward a new border crossing via the Paso de Jama Mountain pass through the Andes into Argentina at an elevation of 4200 metres (the highest and northern-most border crossing between Chile and Bolivia).

A picnic ft for kings followed, courtesy of everyone pitching in to prepare an assortment of cold meats, cheeses, crusty bread, tomatoes and greens

complemented by fresh fruit and cold drinks. This was thanks to the support van driver and tour leader Juan. One could be forgiven for asking - Does life get any better? Here we sat perched on stools eating and enjoying new sights and sounds.

Picnic paraphernalia re-packed, a spectacular salt fat crossing spilt by our passage’s ribbon of pavement came and went before arrival at a policed blockade which signalled the beginning of an ofroad detour to circumnavigate a massive landslide. A challenge this bunch took to like ducks to water. I mean what’s a little sand, rocks, shale and a splash in the overall scheme of what’s to be accomplished. And who cared about the series of never ending dramatic mostly safety barrier-less paved-roadway hairpin bends? Nonetheless whilst experience u

counts for more than this story allows, many issues happened. For example, accomplished rider Australian self-made business creator Territorian Adrew Boller sufered misfortune when he attempted to change his sandy direction catapulting himself and equally adventurous pillion and dear wife Lee skyward.

And then, ‘The Avoidance’ by Australian Lance Mottram, who Lost-it and Regainedit, whilst bouncing, hands clenched hard around grips in anticipation of the worst. Lance managed this together with Canadian Robert Beecroft who’s ridden more enduro and trials bikes than he’s created antibodies and peptides for the NASDAQ listed enterprise Immuno Precise Antibodies he founded.

A strategy Elliot Graham, who became known as the Minnesota ‘Wow-Man’ valiantly embraced but still came to kissing the fesh-fesh before remounting for another love-in.

In the face of such entertainment, the inevitable fall of light to horizon became

the push’s greatest motivator running on empty along the Quebrade de Humahuaca mountain valley into a refuel beneath the soft pastel colourations of the blues, purples, yellows and orange dusk’s arrival brought.

Refuel and rehydration dances completed together with the stufng of energy bars into mouths, lead rider Gus quickly briefed the ensuing night-fall’s wheel chase to day’s end point La Quiaca, a further 200 kilometres northward. Although for some the night-ride loomed as daunting, at least the running was essentially straight and signifcantly, the group understood one another’s pace and quickly morphed into a sort of conga-slip-stream-line invisibly attached to Gus’s riding rhythm.

Even so the ensuing ride’s conclusion couldn’t come soon enough unfortunately and particularly for Andrew and pillion wife Lee who hit a cavernous rut that immediately defated and bent their 1250 beamer’s front wheel. Meaning

they and their bike arrived into La Quiaca with Juan in the support van. Not perfect given everyone at some point during the night’s ride had unavoidably collided with ruts.That boasted an atrium stairway that cork screwed arrivals to their rooms upon the eve of Palm Sunday.

Breakfast was a simple relaxed afair complemented by a peaceful gathering of beautifully attired families coming together outside Hotel Crystal and the adjacent civic square gardens to celebrate Palm Sunday. A pace-less interlude that witnessed locals focus upon celebrating their gratitude for life, family, friends and beliefs.

After observing the festivities, we refuelled and lined up to exit Argentina into Bolivia. We enjoyed a peaceful, undulating meander over some 270 odd kilometres punctuated by shallow canyons, roaming lama, sheep, wandering dogs and rocky outcrops toward Uyuni and an appointment with the Salar de Uyuni.

A vast expanse of white glistening salt stretching 10,582 kilometres across the Andes Altiplano covering 10,100,954 square kilometres (or 3900 sq miles). The natural wonder is the world’s largest salt fat and natural mirror when covered with water where layers of salt have become sandwiched between sedimentary deposits that reach below to depths of 10 metres and more.

The fat represents a salt farm of no less than 11 billion tons from which salt is extracted daily to use locally and ship internationally. This makes the Salar de Uyuni a signifcant part of Bolivia’s Lithium wealth essential to make batteries to power vehicles, smart phones, computers and more. Uyuni’s salt fats are also a signifcant chapter within Dakar’s race history. When a couple of epic timed stages around the Uyuni Salt Flats detrimentally efected bike and vehicle electrics and the rarefed atmosphere brought forward levels of competitor exhaustion, Dakar organizers have not since revisited.

On the other-hand Uyuni is a deceptively curious place due to the large number of unfnished buildings. A situation we later learnt whilst enjoying what’s got to be some of the best wood fred pizzas imaginable at the Minute-Man restaurant within Hotel Tonito. Apparently only

completed buildings draw tax. North from Uyuni our pace amped up along the western fanking of the Cordilleras de Azanaques mountains. We passed through numerous small villages to a city more than 3800 metres above sea level, Bolivia’s capital - La Paz. This city owns the highest elevation of any in the world thanks to its location in the AndesAltiplano plateau. Siting within a sort of crater littered with a mesmerising juxtaposition of buildings pressed hard together, the city boasts the world’s longest and highest public cable car transport system, the extension of which has become on-going to assist its bursting population of more than 1.9 million.

Named Nuestra Senora de La Paz in 1548 meaning Our Lady of Peace before renamed La Paz 1825, the place boasts a dramatic setting below the towering snow-capped Mt. Illimani. But it will be the baptism into La Paz’s insane outskirts

Top left: Full-Front Rise Up & Down Andes. Left: Landslide Detour Conquered. Above: ‘On the Road Again’.

Right: Uyuni’s endless Salt Flats L to R: Robert Beecroft/Andrew Boller/Bernd Nerger.

via its spider web of streets, alleyways and movement to its epicentre that will forever have me romancing the notion ONCE! Our Lady of Peace!

The trafc can be explained as ‘its-everyman-for-himself’. Try, if you will, to imagine yourself leading your newest mates blindfolded through a swarming writhing

Above: Memorial to Death Road’s deadliest accident, when a bus plunged killing more than 100 people in 1983.

Above right: Lake Titicaca ‘Plank’ Ferry. Below: Crew: Juan Farias & Agustin Yaconis. Below right: L to R: Hear No Evil (Lance Mottram) See No Evil (John Passfeld) Speak No Evil (Beak Murray).

minefeld overfowing with every conceivable type of vehicle, wobbly contraption and on foot entrepreneurs. All prepared to chance ‘To Go’ countdown trafc lights! All eager to seize any gap to advance themselves within an atmosphere’s potency where preciseness is nothing more than wafer thin. And your mind’s eye will have a glimpse into how thrilling the riding was and why our lead rider ‘Gus’ will be forever a character deserving of legendary status having led all of us through no less than three and half hours of anticipatory refexology to ride safely into and out of La Paz.

Trafc, sight-seeing and markets aside here we had the opportunity to ride down

what is regarded as the world’s most dangerous road. From its start point La Cumbre, 4643 metres above sea level its approach was powerful. Locally known as the North Yungas Road and once the only passage connecting the administrative capital La Paz with the Amazon Basin, it’s passage once saw more than 200 trucks daily navigate its way with goods, livestock and others carrying anywhere between 30 to 100 passengers until an alternative route was created and the road then closed to buses and trucks in 2007. Plunging 3443 metres from La Cumbre via Coroico to Yolosa, a mere 1200 metres above sea level, Death Road is barely 3 metres wide, just enough for a car let

alone much else. Its narrow clif faced way comprised of 34 kms of very ordinary asphalt with its upper most section of 33 Kms presenting as an exposed surface of stones, rammed earth, mud, harsh bends and abrupt rutted downs surfaced with large protruding smooth hazardous stones some wetter than others. Walled one side by a skyward vertical rock face opposite equally vertical 600 metre plus drops into the abyss without catch-rails that descends under waterfalls. After beginning our descent in a fog mist caused by warm air from the Amazon meeting the Yungas colder air mass, it is an awesome ride that could have easily been a gentleman’s stroll if compared to the real death road that is experienced navigating the pressure cooker that is La Paz’s trafc press.

La Paz behind our ride took a spectacular switch back course toward,

above and around the shores of Lake Titicaca backdropped by great views of more snow-capped Andes in the distance. We boarded a planked ferry ride across an inlet of Lake Titicaca that extends in a northwest-to-southeast direction for a distance of 190 kilometres covering some 8,300 square kilometres. Titicaca is watery expanse of mind-blowing peaceful proportions and was a ftting location to enjoy a great luncheon interlude. Later there was a lengthy border stop that pushed the day’s remainder of riding head long into a setting sun along an ordinary paved road frequently spotted with roadworks and a range of obscure detours as night enveloped our passage to Puno.

Puno is an intriguing Peruvian city set on the shores of Lake Titicaca Puno is ringed by peaks. It is a curious place to enjoy food and drink and holds a surprising assortment of architectural

styles. You can remain engaged in history if the idea of a boat trip to the foating reed islands of Uros doesn’t excite.

Rejuvenated from our Puno stop over, the adventure continued northwest through the town of Juliaca high into the Andes crossing the 4,319 metre pass at La Raya, before reaching the beautiful city and Incan capital the world knows as Cusco, or what the Incans call the naval of the universe. This is a city built on still visible ruins of Incan fortresses. Cusco is a fantastic mix of Incan and Spanish cultures and thankfully our accommodation had us smack bang in the middle of the action. Close to the city’s main plaza, the impressive Plaza de Armas where choices for a drink or meal become plentiful, if the legendary

Above left: Priscilla’s Mud-Bathed Bike. Above: Through Quagmire to Gravel running.

biker’s bar, that is the Norton’s Rats overlooking the Plaza hasn’t enough attraction. Leaving Cusco, our passage to where we parked bikes at Ollantaytambo travelled the expanses of the Sacred Valley, dissected by the silt-laden Urubamba River, dotted with Incan ruins dating back millennia. Ollantaytambo was literally the end of the road forcing us to catch a train to Aguas Calientes, the base for the legendary Machu Picchu.

A switchback bus ride next day took us from Aguas Calientes up to the world heritage site Machu Picchu, a site of astounding history and breathtaking wonderment. We then retraced the Gringo trail to Cusco. Beyond Cusco through stunning mountain and Altipalno scenery, our journey headed to the more remote Espinar, or Yauri as it is known. A chaotic place if that could be possible after La Paz. Our arrival allowed enough time to wander to fnd somewhere to chill and refect upon the journey’s escalating raft of memorable encounters before calling it a day.

Awake, reluctantly I didn’t want to pull back the curtain only because the magic was soon to come to an end. I felt so

fortunate, why couldn’t this adventure not end? I survived where others had fallen, missed as many lama, sheep, dogs and deep ruts as the best, only to collide with ‘one’ sucker that severely reshaped my front wheel’s diameter.

Standing guard, the ever-present Andes are awesome. Ahead Chivey became the next destination to enable easy access to one of the world’s deepest canyons so named Colca Canyon where the giant Condors live. And again, the riding before was magnifcent because it is through these very mountains the mighty Amazon River fows. But we soon found ourselves striking out along an unmade course that immediately got everyone’s engagement. In fact, the further we rode the more things became interesting. Particularly as the sky became laden with dark rain clouds passing between Lama also who’d also sensed the atmosphere’s changing chill.

Further ahead the surface eventually turned into a sort of brownish corduroy black. Ahead someone was already down, another of for a mud-bath. Then a second. All around the landscape appeared gloomy for a feeting moment

Above: Turn Right to Chivey.

Below left: Enroute to see Flight of Condors. Below: Ride Leader ‘Gus’.

Top right: The view during our 20km descent. Right: All Riders & Crew at the ‘End’.

seeming more like that of Wales. Up, down across another brow and then ascending and descending through another series of switchbacks and hairpins eventually onto paved roadway to the day’s end and unwind in the village of Chivey’s hot springs.

An early start next day was rewarded with magnifcent up-close sightings from lookout ‘Cruz del Condor’ of the amazing Condors gliding the canyon’s thermal drafts. A sighting of wing spans and fight that had to be seen to be appreciated. We then retraced passage to ride further south along the spine of the Andes through endless valleys around countless curves and more hairpins through small Peruvian villages to the next overnight in the southern Peruvian city of Arequipa. This was a place no less surprising architecturally than Cusco. Its city square Cathedral amongst many other buildings

was a sight to behold upon dusk’s soft illumination.

Hitting out next day Tacna, formerly a part of Chile, although siting frmly within Peru’s geography, became day’s end after 330 odd kilometres chasing across the Cordillera Occidental high plains western branch of the Andes. This was a ride that at one point presented a descent of sweeping curves that extended for no less than 20 kilometres down from one plateau to the next. It was truly spectacular.

This was the group’s fnal overnight in Peru before crossing back into Chile; to arrive 374 kilometres later before the onset of a breathtaking fall to dusk across the South Pacifc Ocean where the coastal destination of Iquique and this whole mischievous motorcycle adventure had commenced.

The days ride from Tacna across the

vegetation-less stark and arresting Atacama Desert landscape became an enduring and expansive bookend to an adventure none of us in our wildest imaginations could have anticipated.

A wheel chasing adventure that literally had it all, irrespective of how one might choose to slice and dice its magnifcence as much as that moment which had

necessitated a re-route that had opened a bigger adventure.

Compass Expedition’s so named Trail of the Incas motorcycle adventure etched many indelible story-telling moments, laughs and memories. My heart-felt thanks to all involved and especially Juan and Gus who ensured our adventure was truly one in a million.

Heather Ellis

The Painted Pothole Project

Words and Images: Heather Ellis ‘Penis’ Image: Geoff Upson

Have you noticed paint circling potholes in your state? In Victoria, I’ve only ever seen these painted potholes at the top of the Reefton Spur. It sparked the ‘road safety advocate’ fre in me and the ‘painted pothole project’ was born. As adventure bike riders, pot holes are just part of the course on the dirt, but we also ride on a fair bit of tarmac to reach the dirt. Hitting one of these buggers can still throw you of, especially when the shadows make the unmarked potholes virtually impossible to see until too late. In an ideal world, all potholes would be flled and repaired ASAP. But while we wait, the next best thing is to mark every pothole that posed a risk. The painted potholes I’ve seen have a ring of yellow and pink paint. Why this colour combination? Both can be seen in various degrees of light and shadow.

The Reefton is a very popular road for motorcyclists. In fact, along with the Black Spur (Healesville to Narbethong), the Reefton Spur, is included in the list of the world’s top motorcycling roads. The painted potholed section I’m referring to is just after the Lake Mountain turn of and along the Lake Mountain Road too. Some of these pot holes (and not all are marked), are HUGE. I frst came across these painted potholes in February, but on my most recent ride on the Reefton in late May, ‘lo and behold’, the potholes were still there. Back in February, I praised the road crew for encircling the potholes with paint. At least us motorcyclists can see the bloody things and avoid a crash until the potholes are repaired, which I’d assumed given the proliferation (and popularity of this road with riders), would be as soon as possible. Not so; and as we are now in winter it is unlikely the potholes will be repaired until spring. Apparently, our road authority in Victoria in their vast knowledge of the habits of

Above: One of the many painted potholes on the Reefton Spur. At least we are forewarned until repaired. Unfortunately, after months we are still waiting.

motorcyclists, assume we don’t ride up in ‘them thar hills’ in the winter. Wrong, especially on those sunny days.

My latest ride on the Reefton, the still unflled potholes coincided with me reading about a new motorcycle rider safety App called MotoSafe. You may have read about it in your previous issue of Adventure Rider mag. This free mobile app was created by the University of the Sunshine Coast with a grant from the ACT Road Safety Grants Program in Canberra (individuals are also eligible). I eagerly downloaded it and was somewhat disappointed to see only 22 incidents, which includes accidents and near misses, had been reported. And this is national so sign-up folks. The idea is that if enough data is collected this will help infuence motorcycle road safety policy in every state to make our ride safer. And this, hopefully, includes repairing all those potholes, especially on popular motorcycling roads.

When I frst saw the painted potholes, my mind raced with possibilities after all I am a motorcycle road safety advocate. As I often ride the Yarra Ranges, I could purchase spray paint (environmentally friendly, of course), and paint all those yet unmarked potholes and hopefully save an unlucky rider from injury or even death. I would, of course, park my bike safely on the side of the road and ensure I did not myself become a fatality when standing on the road busily spray painting. If you’re concerned, the paint would be removed as part of the pothole repair process. Yes, I’ve reported to Victoria’s road authority many a pothole in the past, especially those huge ones. But I’m now getting a little angry as I see these same potholes go unrepaired, unmarked and growing as potholes do.

But with the need to paint so many potholes, would I need to take out a second mortgage to pay for all my environmentally-friendly road safety spray paint. We have a lot of potholes down here in Victoria! Bright idea number two: I’d start a Go Fund Me page as I am sure I would have the support of hundreds if not thousands of motorcyclists. Some may even join me and take up arms making this a nationwide painted pothole project. I recently did a ride to NSW, and there’s some doozies up there as well.

On further research, I discovered, my

painted pothole project idea was not new. Road safety campaigners, in frustration, the world over have taken matters into their own hands after the failure of their own road authorities to repair potholes. In New Zealand, after the inaction of road authorities to repair potholes around Auckland, road safety campaigner Geof Upson became known as ‘the penis painter’ after encircling each pothole with a penis painted in green. Road authorities launched legal action. But undeterred, he was back with rubber ducks, which he places in potholes, most of which are flled with rainwater. You can check him out on Facebook. The UK also have their fair share of ‘pothole painters’, which road authorities have labelled ‘pothole vigilantes’ and have also threatened legal action. Painting around potholes is grafti and illegal in the UK and most other

countries I expect. I contacted Victoria’s road authority to ask this question: after all I am a law abiding citizen. I just wanted to help my fellow motorcyclists avoid a crash or even death. But at the time of writing, I’m yet to receive a response. However, in Victoria there was no need for me to morph into a ‘pothole vigilante’ and I emailed the Victorian Government’s Motorcycling Community Engagement Panel, which is made up of volunteer motorcyclists. I asked if they could take on the ‘painted pothole project’. Funds collected by the Motorcycle Safety Levy are already used to pay for road repairs on roads used by motorcyclists so why not paint all those yet unmarked potholes on popular motorcycling roads awaiting repair. You all pay this levy ($78.10) as part of your annual registration fee (on only

HEATHER ELLIS

one bike you own). This is assuming your bike is over 125cc. I’m also a former member of this panel back when it was called the Motorcycle Expert Advisory Panel. Among the many motorcycle safety projects funded by the levy that we devised and were adopted was the ‘200 popular motorcycling roads maintenance and repair’ project. These 200 roads were to be targeted for special attention for maintenance and repairs using some of the now $9 million collected by the levy annually. Since the levy was introduced in 2002, a reported $100 million has been spent on motorcycle safety projects. Most has been on repairs to popular motorcycle roads, which are used by all road users. So, this leaves around $35 million unspent according to my calculations. As the unspent amount is not reported, this is not an exact amount. But putting my rubbery fgures aside, there really are no excuses why the proliferation of potholes on our popular motorcycling roads in Victoria can’t be fxed. To me the whole ‘vibe’ of that unspent motorcycle safety levy money is wrong. And so, to take a line from the classic Australian movie The Castle: ‘In summing up. It’s the Constitution. It’s Mabo. It’s justice. It’s law. It’s the vibe.’

If you want to get involved in motorcycle road safety advocacy visit: www.mraa.net.au

Heather Ellis is the author of the two bestselling motorcycle travel books: Ubuntu: One Woman’s Motorcycle Odyssey Across Africa and Timeless On The Silk Road. To read more about Heather and to purchase her books visit: www.heather-ellis.com

Share Local Ride Tour

The Many Ride Opportunities in the Western Australian Wheatbelt.

Hi guys and ladies , I have just picked up a copy of your wonderful magazine and I thought I would write to you about a local ride I enjoy.

It has all the characteristics of a great ride - around 200 km - and that is hills and lots of bendy curves. Very good roads for the region.

I started the day at a café in Toodyay, a lovely town in the wheat belt, and from there, I made my way into the heart of the wheat belt going through towns, such as Goomalling, Whylekatchum, Dowerin, Yelbini and then into Trayning where I turned of and headed back to Kellerberrin where I currently live. As each town is only about 50-60 kms

Story and Images: Tony Downs

apart, there’s heaps of opportunity to rehydrate and stretch the legs along the way as you go through the abovementioned towns. There are also multiple side roads and opportunities to

divert of your ride to go to other places. The roads are well maintained and are as wide as a standard main highway and, in my opinion, in better nick due to much less trafc.

Above: The Commercial Hotel is in Dowerin. Below: The Mill is in Toodyay where Tony had breakfast.

Adventure photos Adventure Rider Magazine’s photo competition.

Winning Entry

Mark Bayley submitted this lovely photo for “Touring” on Australian Motorcyclist. Mark will be sharing a story with us all soon.

Last issue’s winner - Lachlan Elder

On a 2800 km dirt ride from Brisbane to Cairns, a little mishap occurred when riding in tandem and coming in too hot into a very slippery creek crossing at Nearum (80km inland from Bundaberg). It was so slippery the hardest part was picking our bikes up!

Lachlan please get in contact re a prize.

Andy Strapz

Warranty Shmarranty

Iwas ensconced in my loungeroom recliner throne the other day, neck oil in one hand, TV remote in the other. I hate the ads and fick around channels avoiding them, pissing of my fellow watchers as I go.

The tail end of a car ad had 10 YEAR WARRANTY emblazoned across the screen. “Whoa, why are cars ofering ten years and some bike manufacturers only two?” I blurted out, spraying a particularly nice IPA over my ‘moccies’.

The best we can hope for, is fve years from others. Most no longer limit kilometres travelled but have enticements to stick with ofcial dealers for servicing by ofering extended warranty if you do.

Like insurance it pays to read the whole warranty document. A quick review of the car world’s warranty had me wandering through bumper to bumper, powertrain and perforation (whatever that means) headings.

The issue of who services your bike is often a thorny one and gets a little grey –

One manufacturer puts it this way –“You are free to have your product serviced by any suitably qualifed mechanic and this will not afect your statutory warranties, however, failure by the owner to have the recommended servicing carried out by an authorised … dealer means that you cannot take advantage of the … limited warranty”.

Naturally, you must have service performed on time and to the correct schedule AND keep records if outsourced to your local shop if they are not an ‘Authorised Dealer’.

If I mention concerns about a bike at a service, I like to ensure it is followed up by a written trail in case I have to refer back to it down the track. “Nah mate, they’re all like that” - Could be true or a three-point shot for the ‘too hard basket’.

It’s no secret that Adventure riding is tough on bikes and ‘wear and tear’ clauses in warranty are set out to protect manufacturers from the obvious. It all gets a bit complicated though when that’s what the thing was designed for

ANDY STRAPZ

in the frst place. Muddying the waters a little more is the legal concept of Express Warranty. Technically, if the salesperson tells you “maaaate… these things are un-killable” and you go out and kill it, there is some legal recourse. The legal bill will probably be bigger than the value of the repairs so it’s a moot point. Having said that, an Adventure Bike, through the lens Express Warranty should be made in such away as not to fall to bits in that environment.

Complicating it further, the concept of reasonableness is always tucked into the legal blurb somewhere. As Aussie Adventure power slides toward large bore Enduro, what is reasonable in Berlin compared to Back’o’Bourke is likely to be as far apart as both places.

Most dealerships and manufacturers are well aware that there’s no mileage (or is that kilometerage?) in unhappy customers and many go above and beyond. However, like insurance, there is bound to be moments that turn adversarial as both sides push a diferent barrow.

I guess as rider/owners, we need to be reasonable, keep records and put it in writing. And hope that if our steed is to shit itself, it does it in a reasonable manner... during the warranty period.

It’s encouraging to see bike manufacturers’ warranty periods starting to extend out to meet the car world. We can only hope they continue to extend themselves. There’s still a big gap between two, three or even fve when that bloody ad comes back on… Bangin’ on, telling me that a ten-year Hyonbitsdia warranty is something that will make me look ten years younger.

As Nero said – “Caveat Emptor… where’s my violin?”

Words and Images: Andy Strapz