EXPLORE NEW HORIZONS
Designed to meet the demands of both on- and off-road Adventure Touring, the Harley-Davidson® Pan America™ 1250 Special is engineered to explore and endure, no matter what turns you take.
Adventure Rider Magazine is published bimonthly by Clemenger Media.
CEO
Tony Clemenger
Managing Editor Susan Plunkett
Contributors
Tug McClutchin, Holly Fields, Heather Ellis, Ethan Fisher, Dan King, Boris Mihailovic, Chris Keeble, Col Whelan, John McLennan, Pete Vorst, Andy Strapz AND others (If you would like a chance to have your adventure in print = please email susan.plunkett@clemengermediasales.com.au)
Photographers:
Heather Ellis, Ethan Fisher, TF, TBG, Bugsy Plowman Photography and Wilkinson Photography. Dan King, Matt McIntyre, Chris Keeble, Col Whelan, Tug McClutchin, John McLennan, Motohead, Blood Bikes Australia
Design Danny Bourke Southern-bear@bigpond.com.au
Subscriptions
Phone: 1800 995 007
Website: www.advridermag.com.au
Copyright Adventure Rider Magazine is owned by Clemenger Consulting –Clemenger Media Sales and published by Tony Clemenger. All material in Adventure Rider Magazine is copyright and no part may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical including information and retrieval systems) without written permission of the publisher. We welcome ALL contributions but reserve the right to accept or reject any material. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information, Clemenger will not accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for any consequences arising from reliance on information published. The opinions expressed in Adventure Rider Magazine are not necessarily the opinions of, or endorsed by, the publisher unless otherwise stated.
© Copyright Clemenger Consulting, 2024
Articles
All articles submitted for publication become the property of the publisher. Editors reserve the right to adjust any article to conform with the magazine format.
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Your Stories – Your Magazine Issues 62 and 63 have published many informative Australian-based ride and experience stories.
Reader contributions are invaluable because they represent the key interests of adventure motorcyclists.
Thanks to the interests of Holly Field, in this issue we are reminded of the great work being done by the BLOODBIKESAUSTRALIA organisation (p. 62) and there is a solid selection of Victorian and NSW rides that you may find inspiring. Please note that I actively encourage submissions and would appreciate hearing from riders in all states and territories. There
are some fabulous riding trails in WA and Qld for example. Let’s share your latest experiences in those areas – and beyond! Day rides, weekend rides, we-go-homewhen-we-want-to rides. These pages are for you.
We do need hi-res photos but often, a decent smartphone will produce just that.
To get in contact and discuss what you would like to submit, please email: susan. plunkett@clemengermediasales.com.au
Cover Image: John McLennan
ADRIATIC MOTO TOuRs
With 20 years of experience in the travel industry, and with detailed knowledge of the countries they provide tours into, AMT is a key ‘go to’ for moto tours into countries such as France, Greece, Corsica, Switzerland, The Balkans – and so many more.
When you hear the words “Black Forest”, you can envision your ride through the most glorious, old world forest landscape, and note, lots of hairpin bends! This particular tour enjoys lots of clicks as riders seek more information about the excitement awaiting them.
With AMT you can select from guided tours or, to head out on a journey of personal, independent discovery. You can rent bikes from AMT! It’s really a one-stop tour shop!
Check out their tour calendar: www.adriaticmototours.com/calendar
Adriatic Moto Tours appreciate your questions about their tours. Please contact them and get further information about your overseas tour choices for the remainder of 2024 and 2025.
TOUR DATES
SEP 1 - 15, 2024
AUG 31 - SEP 14, 2025
COUNTRIES
Italy, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia
Dack and Ahearn inducted to Hall Of Fame
The Australian Motorsport Hall Of Fame has two new motorcycling inductees, the late Jack Ahearn and Motocross legend Craig Dack.
Younger readers may not be aware of Jack Ahearn, who passed in 2017 at the age of 93. Jack came second in the 1964 500cc Grand Prix Championship to the all-conquering Mike Hailwood. Jack rode a Manx Norton, which was completely outgunned by Hailwood’s MV Agusta, but it didn’t stop Jack winning the GP of Finland, becoming only the second Australian to win a 500 GP race.
Before becoming a Grand Prix racer, Jack was a pilot in WWII, and headed back to Europe to pilot a different kind of machine in 1954 as a racer.
Jack also held an Australian land speed record, and won three Australian TTs.
After retiring from racing, Jack opened a bike shop in Sydney, before eventually moving to Lismore with his wife Betty and their family. Jack was represented at the ceremony at the Australian F1
Grand Prix by his daughter Vickie.
Craig Dack needs little by way of introduction, but we’ll give him one anyway. He is a four-time Mr Motocross champ, and five-time Australian MX champ, and he is still an integral part of the sport as owner of CDR Racing, which he started as a rider when he switched from Honda to Yamaha, and his team continues to run Yamaha’s factory supported effort to this day.
As a team boss, he has mentored riders such as Craig Anderson, Dean Ferris, Chad Reed and numerous others. But it is as a rider that many of us will always remember him, banging bars with the likes of Glen Bell, Jeff Leisk and Stephen Gall in what were the halcyon days of motocross.
Ahearn and Dack now join other motorcycling identities such as Mick Doohan, Casey Stoner, Phil Crump, Mat Mladin, Kel Carruthers, Leigh Adams, and Top Phillis, to name but a few, as Motor Racing Hall Of Fame inductees.
AN APP TO MAKE US SAFER?
The University Of The Sunshine Coast has developed an app designed to enhance motorcycle safety. Called MotoSafe, the mobile app is intended for use by motorcyclists nationwide for reporting incidents that they experience, whether actual crashes or near misses.
The University then intends to analyse the information gathered, to try and identify incidents by location and causation, in the hope of informing future road safety policy.
Like any resource of this kind, it can only ever be as good as the data that is collected, so they are encouraging anyone involved in road motorcycling above the age of 18 to download the app from the various app stores, and check it out.
Above: Craig Dack and Vickie Ahearn (on behalf of Jack) receive their inductee medallions from Dick Johnson.
NEW ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN
The original Himalayan turned up with some excitement, but failed to deliver what many prospective owners were hoping for. It was let down by build quality and an asthmatic 400cc engine.
You cannot accuse Royal Enfield of not listening though, as the latest incarnation has arrived, still at an exceptional price, but with almost 50% more power, and substantially improved build quality. And before you scoff at the new model’s 29.44kW power output, bear in mind that the Kawasaki KLR650 punches out slightly
CF MOTO PLOTS NEW COURSE
They’ve been playing in the midsized adventure space for a couple of years now with their 700MT and now 800MT range of bikes, based around the KTM designed parallel twin motors, and now CF Moto has launched the 450MT to fire an assault at the lightweight end of the market.
The 449cc parallel twin powerplant provides 32.5kW of power at 8,500 RPM, and 44Nm of torque at 6250RPM. Not the kind of numbers you’ll get from the endure-style 450’s like Yamaha’s WR bikes, but you also won’t have the expensive maintenance schedules that come with the high powered 450 singles either.
We’re yet to throw a leg over one, but those numbers are competitive in the market that this bike where compete.
The 175kg dry weight will please many prospective owners too.
It is equipped with KYB suspension offering 200mm of travel at both ends, and it is fully
less and weights quite a bit more, and the KLR is a mainstay of the adventure bike world.
It also comes with a bunch of extras that you’d probably pay extra for with most other manufacturers, such as luggage rails, centre stand, adjustable seat height, tank crash bars, etc.
It has a slightly larger tank over the previous model, and the new gearbox has a 6th gear, which the old one lacked.
For less than $9,000 ride away the bike will obviously have its limitations, which is only fair and reasonable. But for plenty of riders wanting an introduction to adventure riding on something easy to deal with that looks
adjustable. The bike is fitted with a 21 inch front wheel and an 18 inch rear for proper off-road handling, and has a seat height of 820mm, which can be reduced to 800mm with an optional linkage mount change. That will please those riders with a shorter inner leg.
The ABS is switchable on the rear as you’d expect, and the 5 inch TFT display connect your phone to the bike via Bluetooth.
The 450MT will also have it’s warranty extended from 2 years to 3 years if the bike is serviced by your CF Moto dealer. And at $9,490 ride away, it will certainly peak some interest for many riders.
a bit cool and will do an admirable job, it’s a whole lot of bike for the cash.
Visit your local Royal Enfield dealer for more info.
Held Madoc Gore-Tex Gloves
Worth
a look from Held Motorcycle
Fashion is the Held Madoc Gore-Tex gloves, for the fantastic price of only $200. They’re full of that wondrous Gore-Tex waterproofey goodness, and the elastic knitted cuff helps keep dust and rain out.
The palm is tough but supple goatskin, and shell on the back of the hand has some stretch to it for added comfort. Reinforced knuckle protection and a rubber visor wiper are added bonuses.
They even have special leather on the fingertip which allows you to use your mobile phone’s touch screen without taking your glove off.
The Madoc gloves come with a 5 year warranty and are available now from
AORC HEATS UP
The 2024 Australian Off Road Championship is 4 rounds old now, with rounds 3 and 4 recently completed at Mount Misery in Victoria, and the class in each field is beginning to rise to the top of the championship standings.
The conditions were cold and dusty, and the technical tracks took a toll on the field, with many riders finishing the weekend a little sore.
Wins for the weekend were had by Korey McMahon (GASGAS Australia, Motorex) in E1, Daniel Milner (KTM Australia, DM31 Racing Team) in E2, Riley McGillivray (Shepparton Motorcycles, KTM) in E3, Danielle McDonald (Yamaha JGR Ballard’s Off Road Team) in EW and Jett Yarnold (Yamaha Motor Australia, Yamalube) in EJ.
Meanwhile, the main championships are being led by Kyron Bacon in E1 by only 1 point from Korey McMahon, Daniel Milner leads E2 with 4 wins from 4 rounds, E3 is being led by Riley McGillivray, and Jess Gardener leads the ladies EW class by 2 points from Danielle McDonald.
Rounds 5 and 6 will be held at Edenhope in Victoria on May 18-19.
Barkbusters® Handguards New Fitments
Australian made Barkbusters® Handguards have been leading the world in hand and lever protection for motorcycles since 1984. They are proudly designed, developed, tested and built in Australia.
The ever-growing range of model-specific hand guard kits has expanded even further, allowing discerning riders to switch out OEM offerings with the best quality hand protection on the market.
Barkbusters® have added new bike specific fitments to their range including: New Handguard to fit BMW F 900GS ENDURO (’24 ON)
BHG-115 includes Two Point Mount hardware for impact protection.
Bike Specific Hardware kit to fit:
TRIUMPH Tiger 1200 GT (23 on)
TRIUMPH Tiger 1200 GT PRO (23 on)
TRIUMPH Tiger 1200 Rally Pro (23 on)
BHG-102 includes Two Point Mount hardware for impact protection.
Bike Specific Hardware kit to fit CFMOTO 450MT (24 on).
BHG-089 includes Two Point Mount hardware for impact protection.
Features of new bike specific fitments mentioned:
l AUSTRALIAN MADE – “Aussie Made Aussie Tough”
l Designed specifically for each bike with OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) specifications
l Two mounting points secure the full wrap around aluminium design
l Heat treated aluminium backbone for added strength and impact protection
l Easy installation
l Compatible with JET, VPS, STORM or CARBON guards (each sold separately).
Available from all good motorcycle shops. To find your closest dealer, visit www.barkbusters.net
SO YOU LIKED THE 2023 KTM RANGE?
Then here’s your chance to get one cheap. That’s the beauty of this time of year, the stragglers of the 2023 range still hanging around dealer showrooms need to get the boot, so the prices come down. There’s a limited number of 1290 Super Adventure R and S models heading out the door for more than $4,000 off the regular price, as well as some 890 Adventure and Adventure R’s for more than $1500 off.
You’ll also find great deals on the 690 Enduro R which has been reduced by $2300, and the little 390 Adventure is almost a grand off the usual price.
Obviously stocks are limited, so contact your KTM dealer.
KTM AND TOBY SPLIT
It was a marriage that looked as though it would last forever, but KTM recently announced that it would not be renewing its contract with Toby Price for this year.
Toby joined KTM in 2010 after winning the Australian Off-Road championship and the Australian 4 Day Enduro in 2009 on a Kawasaki.
After switching to KTM he contested the Finke and Hattah Desert races at his first attempt in the 2010 season.
His time with KTM has produced multiple victories at Finke, Hattah, The Australian 4 Day, and he has represented Australia numerous times at the International Six Days Enduro, with excellent results.
Toby is known for being one of the hardest men in Australian Motorcycle racing, having suffered neck fractures in 2013, and numerous other injuries that have side-lined him at various stages of his career, but he is also known for racing through injury. He suffered a broken foot and ankle just days before the 2015 Finke Desert Race, yet went on to qualify first in the prologue and win both days of the race.
But Toby is probably most famous for becoming the first Australian to win the famous Dakar Rally in 2016 by over 40 minutes, and he backed it up with another win in 2019 while riding with a broken wrist. He’s also finished on the podium a number of times.
More recently, Toby has been racing in the cars category in the Finke Desert Race, and is the only competitor to win on both two wheels and four, competing in the cars class, then boarding a light aircraft to fly back to the start line so he could ride the bike leg. He’s won the Finke 9 times on a bike, and has won the last 3 events in the cars category.
In 2023 Toby finished 2nd in the World Rally Raid Championship and was also 2nd in the Dakat, only 43 seconds behind the winner, so it’s not as though Toby’s ability or competitiveness on a bike is waning. This only makes the decision by KTM even more curious.
Toby hasn’t let on at this stage what his plans are for the future, other than looking to continue racing off-road in the car class, but we hope he continues on two wheels for a little while yet.
Honda has been pushing to win in the rally space to help boost sales in the off-road market, so maybe we could see the big fella on a red bike soon?
THe BesT PHOTO WILL WIN $250
In Issue 64 we will be running a photo competition under the theme of “touring”.
Please send your best photo (no more than two entries per person per competition) to yourview@clemengermediasales.com.au along with a paragraph explaining the ride you were on and where you took the photo. The BEST photo will win $250. Two runners-up will win $50 each. Judging by Nick Edards, Tony Clemenger and editor.
Adventure Riding Gear for the World Motorcycle Traveller
By Heather Ellis
Top right: Heather Ellis.
Above: Crossing into Lesetho, I chat with the border guards. This red and blue Gore-Tex jacket was purchased sight unseen in Sydney in the early 1990s. It was perfect for Africa… until it was stolen in Kinshasa.
Top far right: Dainese D-explorer 2 adventure gear Waterproof, breathable and ventilated Gore-tex pants and jacket.
Right: Klim Carlsbad jacket and pants.
Adventure riding gear is a vast topic that could fill an entire issue of Adventure Rider magazine, so for the benefit of space, we will focus on jackets and pants.
Most, if not all, adventure riders I see on Australian roads are in one of those ‘adventure suits’. And as I am in the early stages of planning the third leg of my world motorcycle adventure from south to north America, I am curious. These suits are available from a variety of manufacturers in a variety of styles, colours and prices – from the top end to the not so top end. But all these suits share one common factor: weight. Some are heavier than others. But this is the price you pay for protection and water proofing. While I am unlikely to wear one of these suits on my Americas ride, I am in the market for an adventure suit for my off-road adventures in Tasmania and Australia’s High Country (Victoria and NSW), where I’m certain to face both cold and wet weather. Riding off road when it rains, means mud, which means the odd tumble so I will quickly be reminded why my adventure suit is important, especially with all its built-in armour.
But riding overseas on an adventure of a lifetime to Africa, Asia, the Americas and everywhere in between, there are other factors to consider? Much depends on who you are as a traveller; what you’re searching for; how off-road you’ll go; what part of the world you’re in and whether or not you’re chasing the sun. You may also want to ask yourself, ‘do I want to live in my rather cumbersome adventure suit every day for the next 2, 6, 12 months or longer.’
Adventure riding gear has come a long way since I took off on the first leg of my world motorcycle adventure in the 1990s. When I was planning my ride across Africa, it was before the internet. I was a mine worker in the remote Northern Territory and my only option was to phone a motorcycle shop in Sydney. I told them I was riding Africa and purchased, sight unseen, a red and blue Gore-Tex jacket. I loved this jacket: it was fairly unassuming and light (this was before built in armour and removable thermal and waterproof liners). It had
big pockets, and being Gore-Tex was breathable (vital in hot climates like most of Africa). Being Gore-Tex, it was also adequately waterproof for the few showers and odd downpour I found myself in. I was devastated when my beloved jacket was stolen in Kinshasa, DRC (formerly Zaire). With no motorcycle shops my only option was a navy Burberry Trench purchased at a local market for a few US dollars. Someone had once paid a small fortune (around $3000) for it, but the Burberry worked well in north Africa. This is Muslim Africa and I blended in quite nicely topped off with my black headscarf. Navy and black being the colours of the Tuareg nomads. As a shorter woman, the coat also covered me from neck to knee adding another level of respect for local customs.
My riding pants for Africa were a pair of black Levis (just about all motorcycle travellers wore jeans back then), and my boots, were my steel-cap mine work
boots. I don’t know how, but I also hiked, in no discomfort, to the top of Mt Kilimanjaro in these boots, plus the Gore-Tex jacket (before it was stolen) and my Levis.
Before my ride across Europe, Central Asia and China (by train), I had access to London’s motorcycle shops and rode off in a Belstaff waxed cotton jacket (still no built in armour), jeans (no knee, hip or abrasive protection), and Sidi motocross boots (every bit of protection).
But for nearly 30 years now, I’ve been a road rider and over this time, I’ve accumulated an assortment of riding gear for an assortment of riding conditions. I’m in Melbourne and ride year round. The benefits of filtering and footpath parking are not lost on me, but on my occasional commute into the city, our tribe are but a few… even in summer.
In these early stages of planning the third leg of my world motorcycle adventure from South to North America,
Above: Held Mojave top is another high-quality riding jacket.
Left: In North Africa (I am in Mauritania), this navy Burberry trench coat replaced my stolen Gore-Tex jacket, and allowed me to ‘blend in’ with the locals. Just about every world motorcycle traveller wore jeans back in the 1990s.
Right: Riding through Turkey to Central Asia, my Belstaff waxed cotton was cool and comfortable in the desert heat. I added warm layers in the cold and a rain jacket for the occasional storm.
I look at my assortment of riding gear and question what will work and what won’t. There can only be one jacket and one set of pants as space on your motorcycle is limited and weight needs to be kept at a minimum. Life, and how your bike handles, especially off-road, is just so much easier.
I must admit, I have never ridden in an adventure suit, but I have tried one on and two things come immediately to mind. ‘This is super heavy and when do I board the space shuttle’. But with everyone else wearing these adventure suits, am I missing the point? And with so much choice of adventure riding gear on the market, I do feel overwhelmed. But I believe this is because I’m a little stuck in the 1990s when life was simple and safety, even when you had a fall, was an afterthought. I had one set of clothes for the bike and one set when off the bike. I lived in my bike riding gear; I sat quite comfortably in it when invited into a mud hut, Bedouin tent or yurt for a meal, or when wandering around a market and even hiking Kilimanjaro! I’d like to say, I blended in.
My Americas adventure is still a few
years away, and I am sure the technology of adventure gear will have advanced and that super heaviness will be ‘so 2024’. But what if it is not?
For now, I turn to my assortment of motorcycle riding gear (some of it generously given to me by manufacturers), and consider what could I comfortably wear every day in every weather condition living life as a nomad: as a world motorcycle traveller.
From my present riding gear, all could work or be made to work. All is designed for motorcycle riding. All has built-in armour, but would I be comfortable? Would I blend in if I found myself in a remote village in the high Andes? Will I have air flow riding across deserts in Chile and Peru, and be warm and dry while battling icy winds and pounding rain in southern Argentina?
Any jacket can be made cool by undoing the zip and letting the breeze in, but bugs too! Any jacket can be made warm and waterproof by layering and a good quality motorcycle rain jacket, which also cuts down wind chill. As a hiker, I’d
also be carrying a down jacket, which would work just as well if not better than the thermal liner that comes with most motorcycle jackets. For me, there is no space to carry both. Also contrary to what adventure gear manufacturers tell you, thermal liners do not make a ‘rather fetching casual jacket off the bike too’.
I recently purchased a pair of the women’s BMW PaceDry touring/enduro pants for yikes $700 (no manufacturer gift here). This is my first experience of anything BMW and reading up on the technical aspects of these pants, the pores of the fabric, the ‘BMW climate membrane’, opens in response to heat and close when it’s cold. Unbelievably, this actually works. These pants are light, comfortable, give great protection and are in no way cumbersome. And look good. However, there are no big pockets. These pants would work perfectly for the Americas, where I would face heat, cold and wet weather. For those really hot days, when the BMW pants might get a bit sticky, I could carry my pair of Draggin Jeans cargo pants using with knee protector inserts
from the BMW pants. I’ve had these cargos for 20 years and other than replacing the zip, are still going strong. These cargos look good both on and off the bike and are wide enough to go over my motocross boots. Unfortunately, Draggin Jeans now only makes a straight leg version of these cargos. But re-dying my old cargos would freshen them up like new.
While BMW do make a matching PaceDry adventure jacket, I really would be ready to board that space shuttle. While my Belstaff waxed cotton is way past its use by date, a new one is an option and the Belstaff worked well with layering and a rain jacket while motorcycle couriering in a London winter before my summer ride across Central Asia. I’ve also a leather Belstaff look-alike jacket and a summer textile jacket. Neither are contenders for South America.
So while I’m set with my adventure riding pants, I’m still in need of an adventure jacket. Fortunately, the adventure motorcycle market is booming and manufactures are listening. u
AdvENturE rIdINg gEAr for thE World MotorCyClE trAvEllEr
Adventure Riding Gear
– ‘What Works, What Does Not’ – from four adventure riders
These four adventure riders share their thoughts on what works and what does not with adventure
Lala Barlow –South America
Asoloride in an Ixon Eddas Ladies adventure suit from deserts to icy winds of South America
The suit I chose about two weeks before I left Melbourne for Peru was the Ixon Eddas Ladies. Designed in France, it fitted like a glove when I tried it on and I felt immensely comfortable in it. I’m a short girl and often feel like I swim in motorcycle gear, but this suit fitted me perfectly. Due to my budget, initially I hadn’t planned on buying a proper ‘adventure motorcycle suit’ and was going to take my Blackbird Moto Nubuck Leather Jacket and Fuel Captain Pants, which I already had and loved wearing. Hindsight is a beautiful thing. Now six months in, I recognise the troubles I would have had if I’d gone with my original gear. Its complete lack of
motorcycle riding gear. Lala Barlow, from Melbourne, is presently riding solo through South America. Alain Despatie,
pockets, lack of ventilation, lack of waterproof capacity (on the pants), its lack of versatility and just lack of overall comfort. My instinctive niggle to lash out and
from California, spends a good amount of time each year riding Australia’s outback. Bec Fox and Dave Pidcock recently returned from an 8-week ride on a KTM 890 and a Suzuki DR650 through South East Asia.
invest $1000 in proper adventure gear two weeks out was a wise call indeed! It’s paid dividends.
The Ixon Eddas Ladies Jacket has been
Bottom left: Lala has taken a year off from showbusiness to ride South America solo.
Left: Somewhere in Patagonia: Lala chose an Ixon Eddas Ladies adventure suit.
Right: Lala Barlow, from Melbourne, is currently riding a Zongshen 250cc around South America.
incredible. From the heat in Huacachina Peru to the Atacama Desert in Chile (where I was able to remove the thermal winter lining), I’ve been very happy with this jacket and the ventilation has been excellent. It has a multitude of pockets which are endlessly handy for stashing cash, tool bits, muesli bars, hair bands and bandanas. It’s kept me warm in Southern Chile and Ushuaia, at the bottom of Argentina, where icy winds rear up. It’s kept me cool when I’ve had to cut back some layers in the north. Nice touches on the jacket that I’ve found useful are the anti-flap hook on the collar and the thumb sleeve on the Lycra lining. Plenty of armour to feel safe in and the ability to whip it out easily without feeling like you’re wrestling a crocodile. Very appreciated! Whilst the jacket is supposed to be waterproof, I’ve found after a few hours of rain, the thermal inner layer is starting to get damp….. and once that occurs, the jacket does take some time to dry. But I don’t often ride in rain so it’s not been a huge issue for me.
The Ixon Eddas Ladies Pants have been similarly excellent. Again, they fit my 157cm frame perfectly without me feeling like I’m wearing my dad’s work pants, they have a removable thermal layer, ample zip and Velcro pockets for storing everything and more and velcro at the bottom to fasten the cuff of each leg tightly against my boots to keep warm and secure. I also love the velcro around the waist to tighten or loosen. I still like to feel somewhat ‘stylish’ on the road but find that so much moto gear for females is ‘blocky’, ‘ugly’, all black with the only feature colour being fuchsia and doesn’t make me feel particularly feminine. This suit ticks all the boxes for me. However, it is heavy but only when I’m out of it. While riding, I hardly notice the suit’s weight.
After six months of use, my suit is looking like it’s had six months of hard wear on the road, but still retains its sharp aesthetic and cleans up wonderfully, when I get the chance to give it a good wash. Another reason I went with this suit, is because it’s somewhat colourful and not ALL BLACK. I don’t wear black and love dressing colourfully, and the palate of army green, beige, brown with little hints of fluro yellow satisfy me endlessly! If I’m going to be wearing it for a year every day, I want to love it!
During my six months, I’ve seen other adventure riders wearing a variety of types of gear and brands, from jeans and Vans sneakers to full BMW space suits. If someone’s on a BMW, they usually tend to be in a BMW suit or a KLIM suit and I’ve noticed that KLIM tends to be the most popular brand worn by European adventure riders and Rev’it is worn by a lot of Americans. I’ve met quite a few people still getting around in basic jeans and no armour, which shocks me but whatever works for you! Still a lot of people (mostly local adventure riders from South America), wear the standard ‘leather’ jacket as a staple with jeans. The continent is so vast with so many climates, you really do see every possible combination.
Bec Fox and Dave Pidcock
– South East Asia
handles the dust, mud, humidity, rain and heat of Asia
I’ve had KLIM pants and jackets for several years for adventure riding and Dave has for even longer. My old KLIM winter jacket with matching pants are amazing for Toowoomba’s winter months and my many offs in the dirt! However, it was not going to work in 38-degree heat and 90 percent humidity on our twomonth ride around South East Asia.
After hours of trawling through limited online reviews for women, I decided that KLIM was probably my best option, so I headed into Adventure Moto for a fitting. Yes, the price can be a bit alarming, but it was worth it. I walked out with a pair of black KLIM women’s Gore-Tex Altitude pants that fitted perfectly with great protection in the hips and knees, good ventilation and pockets. Being made for women, the pants allowed a little extra room around the hips. A red jacket had also caught my eye. It was the women’s
KLIM Avalon Jacket “highly vented for hot environments” and engineered to provide exceptional airflow. To my surprise it was super light, mostly mesh, breathable and had the same protection as my winter jacket. It fitted like a glove. Plus it had an easy glide zipper and good pockets. I also
love the adjustable elbow and knee protection in KLIM gear. For the rain, I added a fluoro XL rain jacket. I grabbed some lightweight skins and exercise singlets for the undergarments. Easy and light to wash in the evenings and quick dry – so essential!
Left: Another “off” in deep ruts while exploring the back roads in northern Cambodia.
Bottom left: Dave and Bec receive a helping hand from these electrical powerline workers while riding the back roads in northern Cambodia.
Above: Bec stands out in a flouro rain jacket in Thailand. A must in city traffic in the rain. Bec rides a Suzuki DR650 and Dave a KTM890, which they shipped from Queensland to Mayalsia.
Coupled with water-proofed brown leather Forma adventure boots, my worn in ALDI gloves and my KLIM helmet, I was set.
The gear did not disappoint, nor did my trustworthy DR650R or Dave’s KTM 890. We travelled through four countries, crossed five borders, rode over 9,000kms, came unstuck in mud, had about a dozen offs and played in Bangkok and other crazy big Asian cities. We had a blast.
Having used many different brands of motorcycle riding gear over the last couple of decades, five years ago, I decided to buy my first KLIM jacket and pants: the KLIM Badlands Pro. They have now protected me for over 100,000 km of riding in Australia and other parts of the world. It’s well designed and form fitting, has a kidney belt and plenty of water proof pockets. There isn’t anything that’s part of the jacket or pants that’s not practical or can’t be put to good use. They are warm in winter, have good ventilation for the inevitable summer heat, and the Gore-Tex waterproofing has never let me down. The only negative that I’ve had with the Badlands Pro is its weight. It is quite heavy and you feel it in hot weather or slower, tight riding. That said, whenever I take a tumble and drag myself to my feet with a helmet full of leaves and dirt, I’m more than pleased with the money I’ve spent.
be even more advanced than the one I bought all those years ago. But the current Badlands Pro has barely changed. I was surprised and gratified at the same time. For the South East Asian ride with my partner Bec Fox, riding over 9000km over eight weeks with a lot off-road conditions in heat, humidity and rain, I kitted myself out in a KLIM Baja S4 jacket, which is designed for summer and highly breathable. Our gear was perfect in these riding conditions and delivered everything we needed and hoped for.
About Bec Fox and Dave Pidcock
Below: Bec swears by KLIMs Avalon Jacket and Gore-Tex Altitude pants for adventure riding in South East Asia’s heat, humidity and frequent storms. u
We rode through thunderstorms; flooded villages; and crossed rain-swollen creeks. For many days, we rode untamed dirt roads as we explored the lesstravelled paths experiencing incredible scenery. We slept and ate with villagers and with both of us on such ‘huge bikes’ compared to what’s in Asia, we were quite the spectacle.
Best of all, we got muddy, filthy and hot, with the gear not letting us down. After a solid two months riding, the gear came home with our bikes like new.
I absolutely LOVE KLIM gear and couldn’t recommend it highly enough. It’s difficult to find comfortable and practical gear for women and KLIM has always come through with the goods. Here’s Dave’s thoughts on KLIM.
With KLIM being as progressive as they are, I thought that a jacket today would
Bec has been riding for about seven years after meeting her soulmate Dave who is far a more experienced adventure rider. Their mutual love of wilderness regions has them adventure motorcycling throughout the world with many trips planned for the next decade. Look out for the book about their Asian motorcycle trip “Dirty Adventures” by Dave Pidcock and Bec Fox. Coming out later in 2024.
Alain Despatie –
Outback Australia
Afew words on protection, comfort and visibility… and how to avoid nasty odour issues
On my last trip in the outback, I was wearing a BMW adventure suit and arrived at a small town. I needed to do my washing but when I walked into the laundromat, there was this god-awful smell. People moved away and then I realised it was me. Months of accumulated sweat oozed out of that jacket. So now I’m not so sure about synthetics and these suits are not easy to wash.
Three things come to mind with the gear you chose for adventure motorcycle
travel whether it is overseas or in Australia or where I live in the United States. These are protection , comfort and visibility. Protection is critical. On one of my outback trips, I had a minor crash wearing a KLIM suit and the D3O armour, which is flexible and moulds to you, saved me. I landed on my side and back and when I took the jacket off, the armour had broken so I had hit the ground pretty hard. I’d have suffered a serious injury without that armour. However, Mosko Moto, who specialise in adventure riding gear in the US, is taking a different approach to protection and selling the jacket without built-in armour as they assume riders will buy their own. This makes sense as a body armour shirt fits more securely and women can get body armour that’s contoured for their shape. I think this approach to body armour also gives better protection, as built in armour can move around in the jacket. I know a lot of riders wear jeans when travelling, and while motorcycle jeans with Kevlar give you some protection and you can insert knee pads inside, this protection varies depending on quality.
Comfort is also critical because if I’m riding 8 or 10 hours a day, and I’m not comfortable, I’m not focusing on the road. That’s when I lose concentration. Even the smallest thing will annoy me, so my gear must be comfortable. What I wear under my jacket and pants also makes a difference to comfort. I always wear 100% merino wool as a long sleeve top under a cotton T-shirt and long pants. Merino wool regulates temperature and it is only on a very hot day, I’d just wear a cotton T-shirt. Coupled with wool socks, all this helps cut down on those nasty odour issues.
There’s two ways to look at visibility. When riding through a city, you need to be visible and a lot of adventure suits give you this visibility. However, you could always carry a hivis vest, but it is no guarantee that drivers will see you. On a world motorcycle adventure, you live in your riding gear and when you show up to someone’s house, you stand out. In developing countries, you can also look like you’ve got money and this creates a divide. So sometimes wearing something that makes you look normal helps break down the culture barrier. But in Outback Australia, this doesn’t matter as often no one is around to see you.
When considering the riding gear for adventure travel, you can save yourself a lot of money. Instead of paying for an adventure suit with all its armour and waterproofing, how about just carry a rain jacket to put on over your jacket for that occasional downpour. This means, in dry weather, your jacket is more breathable without all that built in waterproofing.
It’s a fine balance with what adventure riding gear to buy. You can focus your trip so much on the technical aspects of riding gear and forget about why you’re travelling. For some of us, it is about being with the people. We don’t want to stand out and look like ‘business’. When in developing countries, you want to blend, but you also want your gear to protect you if a cow steps out and you go sliding down the road. So, it is a fine balance.
Designs
Left: Alain Despatie somewhere in California. Alain often returns to Australia to ride the Outback on his Yamaha Tenere.
Ducati Desert X Unravelling the
A Day of Adventure, Mishaps, and Lessons Learned
and
Words
Images: John McLennan
In the realm of adventure motorcycles, there’s a niche where rugged design meets unbridled beauty. In this domain the Ducati Desert X proudly claims a spot at the table, boasting a perfect blend of style and performance. That said, Ducati has indeed been a pioneer in introducing electronic riding aid systems into the motorcycle industry. These systems, including features like traction control, anti-lock braking systems (ABS), electronic suspension adjustments, and various riding modes, have become standard on many modern motorcycles across different segments. Ducati’s
commitment to innovation and continuous improvement has contributed significantly to enhancing safety, comfort, and performance in motorcycling over the years, and the Ducati Desert X has emerged as a force to be reckoned with!
My encounter with the Ducati Desert X began like any other review—a sense of anticipation mingled with a dash of apprehension. I picked the bike up from the dealership the evening before the ride! A group ride of around 14 or so adventure bikes was planned the next day. Things might get interesting I thought, the ride would be around
u
Above & top right: The Ducati Desert X is certainly a beautiful machine!
Right: The dry roads were like ball bearings
350km’s, all off road.
The Ducati Desert X I was to review, was brand new, stock standard and had never been ridden! After quite a few text messages with a mate, it was decided that this group ride would be an excellent forum in which to provide a raw bone, no holds barred, unbiased, and very public test of what this bike can do and what accessories/protection it would need. It would also provide an excellent opportunity for the other riders to go right over the bike at close range and give honest opinions without the restrictions of being in a dealership with a salesman.
I quickly found myself immersed in the ride as the Desert X’s potent engine roared, propelling me forward with an intoxicating blend of speed and agility. And once we hit the trails, this formidable machine proved to be a capable companion, effortlessly conquering whatever obstacles lay in its path. When it comes to adventure bikes offroad, I am an admitted KTM fan, however the Ducati Desert X is easily comfortable in this esteemed company.
On the Road
While the Ducati Desert X has formidable off-road capabilities, on road it is extremely comfortable for the commute! The road manners of the Ducati are impeccable. Smooth, comfortable, and excellent wind protection from the fairing with exceptional handling in the tight twisting asphalt turns, and then handle a rough, steep, and rocky track with ease.
Back to the ride, and as I expected, the pace was fast, especially near the front of the pack. At one stage I noticed a rider glued to my hip. On the next stop he asked if it was OK as he was avoiding the dust. I replied that it was OK if I knew he was there. This would come back to bite both of us later! However, as any seasoned adventurer will attest, the path to glory is fraught with challenges—and it wasn’t long before I found myself pushing the limits of the Desert Xs Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR tyres capabilities, perhaps a tad too far. In a heart-stopping moment of miscalculation, the front end hit a clay pothole I did not see until too late due to the dust of the other bikes, and slipped from beneath me, sending me sliding along the ground in a cloud of dust and debris. I felt like it was in slow motion and remember having time to think, oh no, the
Above: The Desert X comes standard with Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR Tyres 21 inch at front and 18 inch at rear.
beautiful new Ducati! Then I was run over by the rider sitting behind me, by both wheels, and found myself finally stopped with a DR650 sitting directly on top of me.
‘Get it off’ was all I could manage to say as I could not breathe from the weight. The poor rider was trying to lift it off me with a broken wrist; he managed to lift it enough for me to slide out.
As I dusted myself off and assessed the damage, I realised my ride was over. After the rider had run me over, he had T-boned
the brand-new Ducati Desert X, hitting it right in the mid-section! And there, our ride was cut short, and we headed back to civilisation. I should point out that the bike had survived the slide along the track from around 40km’s an hour remarkably well, with just a bent brake lever and a couple of scrapes such as footpeg and fairing. Relatively minor scrapes and scuffs until the freak accident of being run over by a DR650!
Later, I couldn’t help but reflect on the
lessons learned from this unexpected mishap. First and foremost, among them was the importance of having the right equipment. I had mostly road focussed tyres, no robust hand guards, and no engine protection.
Equally crucial was the necessity of donning proper protective gear, including a high-quality helmet. In the aftermath of the crash, I couldn’t help but feel a profound sense of gratitude for the quality helmet that had shielded my head from harm, underscoring the importance of investing in top-notch safety equipment. My head and my elbow both hit the ground first. My body armour saved me from serious injury.
Below left: DesertX is the first modern Ducati with 21 inch front wheel and 18 inch rear, long stroke suspension and a new frame designed specifically for the off-road experience. Below right: The versatility of the DesertX is also reflected in its Riding Modes. It has 6 modes, 2 of which are specifically dedicated to the off-road riding experience.
Displacement: 937cc
Power: 110 hp (81 kW) @ 9,250 rpm
Torque: 92 Nm (68 lb-ft, 9.4 kgm) @ 6,500rpm
Seat Height: 875mm
Wet Weight No fuel: 210kg
Warranty: 24 months unlimited mileage
Maintenance Service Intervals: 15,000kms/24 months
Valve Clearance Check: 30,000kms
Fuel Tank Capacity: 21 litres
Above: Everyone was a bit shellshocked after the spectical they just wintenssed.
Right: Riders excitedly retelling the story of the crash!
Bottom right: Minor scrapes until the Ducati was T-boned by an errant DR650.
Conclusion
The Ducati Desert X review took an unexpected turn, but the lessons learned added a valuable layer to the overall experience. I was disappointed to have to take back a damaged bike. I felt that I had let the dealership down as they had showed faith in me! However, their main concern was for my welfare first and bike second, which was greatly appreciated. And choosing the right tyres, wearing protective gear, and investing in a quality helmet are non-negotiable aspects of off-road riding. While the crash provided a stark reminder of the risks involved, the highlight was the immense enjoyment that comes from riding a machine like the Ducati Desert X. So, gear up, choose your route wisely, and let the adventure begin!
Big thanks to Aiden and the crew over at Blacklocks Lavington for hooking me up with the stunning Ducati Desert X!
The Great snowies:
A ride for the bucket list
Words and Images: Ethan Fisher
place to clear my head, to relax and unwind….. Something for myself!
Above: Ethan and Dean just outside Khancoban. Top right: Ethan and Dean just outside Khancoban. Bottom right: A quick stop at Tathra pub.
For as long as I can remember, the dream has been to ride with my dad. For some this may be a simple task, for me a little harder. My father lives in Brisbane, myself the NSW south coast. When I was young my dad always had a motorbike, but due to certain things he sold up, bought a car and the rest was history. Throughout the years he’d always teased his motorbike return and recently, at the ripe age of 63, he’s back behind the handlebars.
About four or so years ago I needed a break from everything. I’ve never done anything for myself up to this point, my own company wasn’t something I enjoyed and wasn’t something I went out of my way to have. But life seemed to decide for me.
The snowy mountains always appealed to me as a ride worthwhile doing, so I jumped online and booked a room at Thredbo. From there, I planned the trip. My trip was just what I needed, the
The Snowies is glorious during the autumn and I told myself there and then, I’d be back. So, every year (except during
covid) in autumn I’ve returned, each time I’ve had more people along for the ride. It’s turned into something special for me and for my friends.
This year has been more special, more
Left: Father and son Ethan and Dean about to set off from Batemans Bay.
significant.
My dad has come along for the ride, my lifelong dream had become reality! After what seemed something impossible, I had the chance to see my dad, my hero, on a bike right next to me!
The morning we set off it had rained all
night; the drizzle was still in the air and the clouds still present.
Batemans to Tathra is my usual go to, with its glorious, magnificent views, and corner after corner, a worthwhile stretch of road! But the rain forced us to keep it safe and head straight to Bega down the
Left: The best lodge in Thredbo - The Denman. Below: Thredbo - bikes, ski lifts, beautiful.
highway. While not the twists and turns we were looking for, a lovely ride it still is. From there my usual trek began!
Bega to Candelo, a quiet little town full of charm and a great spot to stop for a coffee.
From here Myrtle mountain followed by the climb up Mt. Darragh. Words to describe this stretch? Just one! Gorgeous!!
Twists and turns, ups and downs, scenery and farmland. A bikers dream!
Up to Bombala for some lunch at the local club before setting off through Dalgety, farmlands and flats as far as the eye can see, winding up the hills through the middle of winds farms, fabulous! Reaching Jindabyne before our last stretch to Thredbo!
During winter, Thredbo is a winter wonderland, during summer, a mountain bikers oasis and a motorbikers pit stop paradise.
The views from my lodge at “The Denman” are magnificent, and the Kosciuszko on tap while looking up at Kosciuszko can’t be beat. But it’s the second day of my annual trip that is the
Left:
reason why we we do it and the reason why having my father with me makes it the reason why, I will continue to do this every year.
The snowy mountain loop! A day journey through some of the most wonderful, spectacular, gorgeous land our amazing country has to offer! Countryside, mountainside, lakes, dams, rivers, peaks and valleys! This ride has everything an adventure rider could ask for.
Twists, turns, straights, clean fresh air, sights to see and places to stop and stare. The loop we run is all tar but for the more adventurous of riders, the dirt, off roads tracks are endless.
Thredbo, Jindabyne, Berridale, Adaminaby. Cabramurra where the massive Snowy Hydro 2.0 is being constructed, Khancoban for a late lunch.
Then the last hour and a half push back up the phenomenal snowy mountains to Thredbo for a well-deserved beer and wood fired pizza!
In the years past, alone and then with friends, I’ve done this road, in an all manner of ways, on more than one bike. But as the legend is told, superstition beware, do the loop backwards (clockwise) and
Above left: Pipers Lookout, Brown Mountain. Above: Thredbo Snowy Creek.
Day two route - the Snowy Mountain loop (anti-clockwise).
you’re bound to get wet!
This year I will hold so close to my heart, because at my side, in my rear-view mirror, and leading the way, I had my dad. The man, my life guide and role model. Along for the ride that meant so much to me. The ride I now hold so dear because of him.
Day three is our journey home and back to normality but not without another great ride first.
We set off after a filling breaky at our lodge, not before saying our goodbyes to the best of all Hostesses Judy “see you same time next year”.
Thredbo to Jindabyne, this time to Cooma down the highway and then across to Bega via the illustrious Brown
Top left: Dean looking over the Tumut Pond Dam. Above: Thredbo to Batemans Bay via Brown Mountain and Tathra/Bermagui. Left: Tumut Pond Dam lookout.
Mountain ride! The day was bliss so we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to add in what we missed on our way up! Tathra to Bermagui!! Oh Yeah!
A quick zap around Tilba Tilba then through Narooma and our last stop at Moruya Waterfront Hotel for our last beverage of the trip together with an unmatched view of the river. With the 2024 ride done and dusted, I find myself looking towards 2025 with a new found energy and a new found love of what this ride gives to me and now many others. A ride that defines the reason I love to ride, but one that completes me in a way that only I can now understand. I’ll never forget the ride I got to share with my dad, the first ride that we had together after 36 years. The ride we will continue to do together every year for as long as we can as father and son.
Above: A couple of Kosciuszkos at Kosciuszko. Below
Lunch at Bombala.
DOING IT IN sTYLe
Words and Images: Tug McClutchin
“You meet the nicest people on a Honda”.
I can’t vouch for the veracity of the statement, but it was one of the most successful advertising campaigns from any motorcycle company in my memory. People still remember the phrase today, and the ads haven’t run for decades.
And while I’m happily prepared to say you also meet your share of arseholes on a motorcycle, there tends to be something particularly enjoyable about spending time away with friends who share your passion for bikes.
The thing about bike trips with a group of people is that it’s not just about the
Left: The Husky Pub is right by the sea, so you’d expect great seafood.
Above: Matt Moran outside his Rockley Pub.
Below: Bathurst National Motor Racing Museum.
things you do at your destination, it’s about the getting there part too. You’re not cocooned in a car, cut off from the people in the other cars. You’re on your bikes, sharing the experience of travelling with other riders.
But we know that. That’s all good and well.
So, I got to wondering, until I met my lovely wife who also rides a bike, most of the trips I did with other riders were with blokes. Why was that?
It’s not as though there aren’t girls who ride. You only have to look at the success of groups like Girls Ride Out and some of the other female social ride groups to see that.
Then I thought about the kinds of trips I used to do, mainly with other men (and the odd girl here and there). They were trips that generally involved riding a lot, then staying in a pub, or some other average lodgings, and eating and
u
drinking at a pub at some little town.
That’s all fine when it’s just a bunch of blokes who want to sit around a salubrious shithole getting drunk and talking about the crap that drunk blokes talk about. But I can see why not many girls wanted to go on those trips. Girls are
usually a bit more sophisticated than that.
Sure, they’ll put up with a trip like that once in a blue moon, and probably even enjoy it on some level, but in reality, most of them want a little more from a weekend away than that.
The more I thought about it, I couldn’t
even think of a time when one of the male riders even brought their partner as a pillion on one of those rides. That could be for a variety of reasons. Maybe their partners didn’t like going on the bike at all, or maybe the guy just wanted to ride by himself.
Or maybe it was just that the trips were boring as batshit for a lady with a little class.
I asked my lovely wife about my developing mental conundrum. Her response was simple. She is happy enough to go on rides with people that just end at a pub for the night, but probably only a couple of times each year. But to go on more of these adventures, she would like to do some “interesting” things along the way.
Which leads to the obvious question, “what the fuck does interesting mean?”
So, I began to hatch a plan for a trip that would appeal to a crowd made up of equal parts men and women. No, not as any kind of motorcycle Tinder thing, but a trip that would make couples want to go on a group ride together. Maybe the ladies have their own bikes, maybe they’re riding pillion, or maybe the blokes are riding pillion on their lady’s bike, whatever, but I wanted it to be a trip that would appeal to a couple as something they might both enjoy.
Top: The Huskisson Hotel had been tastefully renovated. Left: Plenty of undercover eating space at the Husky. Top right: Huskisson is a great place for a sunset vino.
Good riding roads are a vital requirement for a great bike trip. of a great bike trip is a given requirement. Nobody wants to go on tour on the freeway. We like some bends, some elevation changes, some nice scenery to look at along the way. That’s non-negotiable for any motorcyclist. Some of us like some dirt, and even a creek crossing or two. Whatever floats your riding boat is all good by me.
But what to do to make it more appealing in a couple-friendly kind of way?
I thought about what my lady and I do when we want a nice weekend away that doesn’t include the bikes. For us it is often a trip to the city for a nice dinner, maybe some theatre or a band, and a night in a nice hotel.
So, the plan began to evolve. If we were to appeal to couples we needed good food, not an overcooked schnitzel with chips and salad limper than my cousin Nigel’s handshake. It must be proper food, well prepared, by someone with skill and care in that regard. We needed a little entertainment of some kind, some culture thrown in, and nice digs. Chicks don’t
generally like crappy pub accommodation with a dozen reprobates all sharing a bathroom.
Neither do I when it comes to it.
And don’t get me wrong, it’s not just the ladies who like nice food and decent lodgings. Most guys do too. We’re just happy to forgo our self-respect a little more cheaply than the fairer sex.
Eventually the trip came together. This would be a three-day ride, lacking dirt, as half the crew were on road bikes, but still full of adventure.
It was Number 1 and me, plus three other couples, and it was shaping up to be a fun weekend. The weather gods were smiling, and although one couple had to pull out just before we went, the remaining six of us met at Windsor on Sydney’s outskirts on a Saturday morning.
There was Glenn and Cate aboard Glenn’s Ducati Multistrada Enduro, and Clare and Andrew, riding a Yamaha Tracer and Kawasaki ER6F respectively. They were joining my sainted wife on her KTM 890 and myself on my Ducati Multistrada. None of the couples had
met before, but everyone hit it off immediately. It was apparent quickly that this would be a fun crew.
We headed west over the Blue Mountains to the sleepy gold rush town of Sofala.
After a poke around there for a bit (and chuckling at the very low door heights on the old buildings), we took the often forgotten and enjoyable road to Hill End, another historic gold rush town, to take in the sights and enjoy some lunch at the café.
Hill End is a lovely town that probably all adventure riders in NSW know of, as it sits at the end of the famous Bridle Track. If you haven’t ridden it, put it on your list.
We then steered for Bathurst via Turon for a quick obligatory lap of Mt Panorama and a nose through the National Motor Racing Museum.
Whilst I have very little interest in car racing these days, I was a big Peter Brock fan as a kid, and seeing so many cars from that era in there brought memories flooding back. There was a Torana there driven by Colin Bond, who I met as a u
child as my grandmother somehow knew him. I’d completely forgotten about it until I saw the car sitting there.
There’s also some cool race bikes from the past that are worth a look.
The Motor Racing Museum gets 3 dented fenders out of 5, or maybe 4 out of 5 if you’re a real petrolhead.
Then it was off to Rockley for a night in the Rockley Pub.
Yeah, I know, I said no pubs. But this one is a little different. The sleepy hamlet’s only waterhole is now owned by famous chef Matt Moran. The pub has been substantially renovated, with even more work planned. The food is as good as you’ll see at a pub, as you might expect given it’s owned by the chef who also runs restaurants such as Chiswick, Chophouse, and Aria in Sydney.
Rockley is close to the Moran family
and
The menu is a mix of some restauranttype meals like confit duck, or a pork chop with poached seasonal fruit (which was delicious!), plus some pub favourites such as burgers and steaks that have been given a chef’s makeover. There’s no short-order cook stuff here, it’s all top class.
And I know I said pub accommodation was off the menu for this trip, but the accommodation upstairs at The Rockley is fully renovated and quite lovely. The handful of rooms are cosy and warm, with ensuites to most rooms. Guests also have exclusive access to the upstairs balcony overlooking the little town and the park.
The pub lets you park the bikes on the grassed area behind their side gate overnight, so you don’t have to worry about
Left: Wayne Gardner’s NSR500.
Right: The National Portrait Gallery will give you pause for thought.
Below: Some of the bikes in the Bathurst National Motor Racing Museum
Bottom right: The food at The Rockley Pub is first class.
them disappearing for use as paddock bashers by the local kids, which is nice.
We scored The Rockley Hotel 5 sucked clean t-bones out of 5. It’s a top little place for a weekend away.
The heavens opened while we were having dinner, but by morning the rain was gone, and the air was crisp and fresh.
Andrew was the smart one who brought a towel down from his room, and by the time I arrived with my luggage he had already wiped dry the seats and tanks on everyone’s bikes. What a lovely fellow. You don’t get that shit on an all-bloke tour. Having girls around seems to bring out the best in us. Who knew?
We headed south through Tuena and were delighted to find the bends just before town have been beautifully resurfaced. Then it was on to Crookwell for brunch and a much needed coffee at Café Zesst, which is well worth a visit. We awarded the café 4 out of 5 caramel slices. Crookwell is also the home of former NSW politician Duncan Gay, who was the Roads Minister who legalised lane filtering for motorcyclists in NSW. He’s a top bloke, so buy him a beer if you ever see him in the pub there.
From there it was on to the boulevards of power in Canberra, where we spent a couple of very interesting hours wandering around the National Portrait Gallery. Half a dozen dirty motorcyclists wandering about the halls of the gallery
farm, where they raise beef, lamb,
pork for use in their restaurants.
probably isn’t a regular occurrence there, but the place is fascinating and well worth a few hours of your time.
While we enjoyed the gallery, the slow food and eclectic service in the café wasn’t quite so up to scratch. We gave the cafe 2 Whiteleys out of 5, but the gallery gets a full 5.
Then it was a couple of hours on the road via Braidwood and Oallen to Nerriga for a quick beer at the pub. Braidwood to Nowra via Nerriga is an underrated piece of road. We weren’t heading for Nowra though - we turned off for the coast before that and arrived around 5pm at the Huskisson Hotel on beautiful Jervis Bay.
The place has had a major makeover since I was last there about 25 years ago, and the rooms upstairs are quite nice, and some have ocean views for you to wake up to. Food is good, and there is often entertainment on the weekends. A solid 3.5 swallowed fishbones out of 5 there.
The next morning we ate breakfast and made our way back towards Sydney, via the roadworks-infested Kangaroo Valley and the obligatory stop at the pie shop at Robertson. I opted for my traditional sausage roll with sauce, while Number 1 had the pleasure of indulging in her first ever Portuguese tart. How she managed to get through her life until now without discovering their sweet, curdy goodness I will never understand.
We said goodbye to Glenn and Cate who were headed to Sydney for that evening’s Ducati launch, and Andrew and Clare joined Number 1 and I and headed for Mittagong, where they too left us and headed for home.
It was certainly an extremely different sort of motorbike trip to what I am used to. Three couples, all meeting for the first time, having a few days away riding bikes, eating great food, and having an
absolutely hilarious time. It was at least as much fun as any trip I’ve done with a group of blokes. But there was noticeably less bravado and bullshit. Not that there’s anything wrong with bravado and bullshit. Everything has its place.
I’ve been on trips across deserts, tours across multiple states, and all sorts of other excursions with fellow motorcyclists, but this is the first trip I’ve done where
everybody had their partner with them. And we all had a blast. I’m sure it won’t be the last time we all catch up for a ride. When you get great people and bikes and a road trip and mix them all together, you’re generally guaranteed a memorable time will be had. I guess the lesson is that maybe, if we plan trips that are a little more classy than usual, our better halves might come and join us as well.
HeLD HAKUNA II JACKeT
Words and Images: Tug McClutchin
The Hakuna II is rugged, but comfortable and well made.
After over 9 months and getting on for 20,000km of use in all conditions other than snow, I can happily advise you that the Held Hakuna II is the best motorcycle jacket I’ve ever owned.
In the past I’ve generally had three different jackets. A light textile jacket with substantial venting for summer (which has always left me ponderous as to how they’d hold up in a crash), then generally a leather jacket for use on rides in moderate weather, and a winter jacket for the teethchattering days.
Actually, I lied, make that 4 jackets, as I’ve always needed a wet weather over-jacket for use with any of those.
Lately all I’ve worn is this Held Hakuna II, in all types of riding other than when I’m at the track.
I rarely write product reviews, as usually that means a supplier gives you a product, you use it a couple of times, take some pics, and write some lame shit based on their marketing material. I have little time for that. If you see me write a product review it will usually be a product I paid for myself and have used pretty extensively.
That is the case here. Yes, Made In Germany who imports Held products into Australia advertises in this magazine occasionally, but I bought my jacket myself and they did not know I would review it. I reckon that’s the best way to do it. At least you know I didn’t get anything for free in return for flowery words.
So, back to the jacket. It’s suitable for on-road and adventure riders, and I have used it accordingly. That’s why it’s a bit dirty.
The outer shell, which comes in a few colour choices, is made of DU PONT Cordura, a familiar fabric in the world of highquality riding gear. It has a Coolmax inner lining which is very comfortable and allows air to flow freely to your skin when you choose to allow it to.
The outer shell has multiple ways to allow air into the jacket in warm weather. There are zips at the chest that allows substantial roll-down panels to disappear inside the jacket, exposing a mesh layer that allows air to flow in while riding. The zips that go almost the full length of the inside of your arm open up to allow even more air in.
Then there are large zip-open vents at the back of the arms to allow that air that has come in the front of the jacket to flow around your body and exit the rear of the jacket.
It works better than any venting system I have tried on any other similar jacket. You really notice it on a hot day when you stop for fuel and start sweating a little. As soon as you get moving again you immediately feel the cool from the air drying your sweat, which is just as things are meant to be. That’s why we sweat, after all.
While I haven’t crash tested the jacket, I’m not exactly known for treating my gear with kid-gloves, and it has stood up to my abuse brilliantly. There’s not a pulled thread, sign of abrasion, or sticky zip to be seen anywhere.
Waterproofing duties are handled by a clip-in liner, which both keeps the water out with supreme diligence and warms things up a bit. On really cold days I leave it in, inclement weather or not. It still breathes a bit, and turns the Hakuna II into an effective winter jacket. On days that are merely cool rather than cold, say 15 degrees or a little more, I can happily ride with the vents zipped up, the liner left out, and nothing but a tee shirt underneath.
Above: The fold down vents in the chest work brilliantly. Below: The arm vents allow plenty of airflow.
If it’s colder than that I add the liner. If it’s really cold, maybe 5 degrees, I’ll add a thin jumper underneath, just like you do with any winter jacket.
In terms of its water repelling abilities, it excels. You might eventually get wet in very heavy rain as it will always get in somewhere no matter how good a jacket is. It might get in down your neck, as seems to have been my life-long affliction. But no jacket is perfect in a torrential downpour. You have to be realistic. I have ridden in normal heavy rain and remained completely dry and warm for hours in this jacket. It is much better than I expected.
If I’m out for a single day ride and it’s wet, I will let the Hakuna II do it’s thing as it is. The way these types of jackets with waterproof liners work is that the outer shell will get wet and allow water through, but the inner clip-in liner keeps the water away from your skin.
That’s fine if you will be getting home at the end of that day and can hang the jacket out to dry before your next ride. Though if I’m riding again the next day, then I will throw a light outer rain jacket over the top of the Hakuna II to make sure the outer shell stays dry, just so that I have a nice warm dry jacket to put on again in the morning. Otherwise you are starting the next day with a heavy, wet, cold jacket, which is never pleasant. That’s not a criticism of this garment, it’s how all these types of jackets work.
The outer shell will keep a lot of water out if the rain is light, but eventually it will get wet. I have sprayed mine with a waterproofing spray, which while not doing what it says on the can, does help a little. But the waterproof liner is where it’s at in terms
It has a handy waterproof pocket for your phone, and I find the pockets at the bottom on either side at the front very handy for my wallet and other bits and pieces.
The built-in armour is soft and comfortable, and meets the usual Euro standards. There’s also optional upgraded armour that you can order if you want to. I also like the soft neoprene-like fabric on the neck strap. It’s very soft and comfortable on your throat, and helps keep water from entering. The sizing runs small, so you’ll need to order a size larger than you would normally wear. Don’t be offended, it’s ok to admit you need a 3XL.
The best compliment I can make is to say it has become my go-to, everyday use jacket in all weather conditions. My old summer jacket didn’t get used at all this summer, and I will not need anything else besides this one for winter either. I’ve not discovered anything negative to say about it.
It really is a do-everything jacket for the road.
And I’ve never said that before about any jacket in my 30+ years
The Held Hakuna II starts at $750 and is available from: www.migmotorrad.com.au
The rear of the jacket has large vents across the back, as well as in the back of the arms.
Crossroads
There’s plenty written about incredible destinations. Here’s a few great places to start or base a ride.
Images: TF, TBG, Bugsy Plowman Photography and Wilkinson Photography
The mountain roads and trails in the Bright region are world class.
Bright, Victoria V
ictoria must be one of the world’s most blessed locations for spectacular scenery, historic settings and just fantastic riding. The riding is good for the enduro and off-road racing set, but for adventure riders it’s heaven. From the deserts and grasslands of the Hattah region south of Mildura to the Otways and the famed Great Ocean Road on the southern coast, it’s all scenic and glorious with plenty to challenge the gung-ho brigade and gorgeous, WFO dirt roads for the sightseers.
Bright, around 300km northeast of the Melbourne, sits on the Ovens River, and for a definition of ‘picturesque’, a dictionary could do a lot worse than show an image of this town.
Ready and waiting
Bright’s a destination for adventurers of all types: hikers, mountainbikers, abseilers, paragliders and, of course, riders, both on- and off-road, and a big part of the appeal of the town is the variety of terrain available in all directions.
Hotham, with its extremes of weather and sensational alpine views is only about 60km to the east. The bitumen climb above the snow line can be a breathtaking experience in itself, and continuing east from the alpine village takes riders through places like Dinner Plain and onto Omeo with its justly renowned bakery and coffee shops.
Around Bright itself are endless dirt roads heading up into mountains and going, who knows where?
A trip to the tourist information centre –well and truly geared to helping adventurers fulfil their dreams – will reveal a great deal, and a call or visit to Touratech headquarters at nearby Carboor, about an hour’s ride to the northwest, will tell a great deal more. Very few people know the riding in the area better than Touratech Australia and Safari Tanks main man, Robin Box. If you’re looking for the best rides in that part of Victoria, Robin’s ‘The Man’.
There’s sensational riding in every direction from Bright. Mount Beauty and Falls Creek are to the southeast, Myrtleford and Beechworth to the north, and Lake Bufflao to the west is not only spectacular viewing, the dirtroad riding in the area is huge and varied. For those craving a little urban bustle, Wangaratta is about 80km to the northeast.
Sit and enjoy
That’s assuming anyone would want to leave Bright itself, of course. We’re not sure why anyone would. With its excellent restaurants, brewery, ice creamery and country pubs, it’s an absolutely superb place to sit, relax, and plan the next day’s ride.
Tip: Accom in Bright tends to be expensive. About 20km to the south, on the road to Hotham, is Harrietville, a quiet, pleasant village with good services. Accom costs can be half the price of Bright.
Right: Not too many people know the riding around the Bright area as well as Touratech importer and Australian Safari Tanks owner, Robin Box. Grab him a pastry from the Beechworth bakery on your way in and he’ll put you onto some of the best riding Victoria has to offer.
Below: All kinds of adventurers fulfil their dreams in the mountains around Bright. It’s very much a hub for thrillseekers of all varieties.
Cairns, Queensland
There’s a hell of a lot of Queensland.
To try and cover the state itself as a destination would be a tricky one. The vast deserts of the west and up into the gulf country would take a lifetime of exploration on their own, and there’s not much of the coastal strip that isn’t pumping along with growing populations and buzzing commerce.
But far north Queensland…now there’s a part of the world time has passed by in the best possible way. There’s still saltwater crocs basking on public causeways, vast, unpopulated jungles, people living as people lived 100 years ago in isolated pockets of paradise, beaches to have dreams about, and, best of all, it’s all available to anyone with the courage to go find it.
Be prepared
‘FNQ’ – far north Queensland – is an adventure rider’s Nirvana, and for those dipping their toes in the croc-infested waters of riding the truly fabulous and prehistoric majesty of the region, Cairns is an excellent base.
The large and bustling city of around 160,000 offers accommodation from backpacker hostels through to the biggest international budget-blasting resorts, and
Main: The twisting, climbing, mountain road up the Macalister Range is a sensational ride with a lookout part the way up.
there are plenty of long-established bike shops. For most riders the bike shops are important, because from just about anywhere it’s a long ride to Cairns. The city’s about 1700km north of Brisbane, 1000km north of Rockhampton, and about 350km north of Townsville.
Those are the places a rider will have to look to for specialist parts and bike tech they can’t find in Cairns.
From a rider-in-need’s point of view, there’s nothing north of Cairns. Some places may stock tyres and tubes, but any rider contemplating heading north should do their best to be self-sufficient once they leave the city.
Awesome
The reward for venturing north?
A seemingly impossible, glorious, unmatchable tropical wilderness. Oysters to be knocked off rocks and eaten truly fresh. Barramundi paddle aimlessly through rivers and billabongs, apparently searching for a well-presented lure, and riding which varies from the incredible Bloomfield track to wild, heart-stopping blasts down beaches lined with white-crystal sand, palm trees and
offering transparent water tinged with blue. The Daintree, Cape Tribulation, old gold mines and fabulous riding are on offer in all directions for bikes of all sizes and riders of all abilities.
There’s very little regulation north of Cairns and riders can set up camp pretty much wherever they please, but for those looking to return to the relative safety and mod cons of Cairns each night, there’s still a wealth of sensational riding on offer.
Grab a map or log on to Google maps and find Black Mountain Road. It leaves Highway 1 just north of Cairns and is the main run up to Kuranda, a popular tourist destination near the top of the mountain. The twisting, climbing mountain road up the Macalister Range is a sensational ride with a lookout part the way up, and Kuranda itself is worth a visit. But there’s a couple of dirt roads which head north to the small town of Mount Molloy, where adventure riders are always welcomed and where the chips and steak sandwiches are of behemoth proportions. It’s only about 100km or so from Cairns to mount Molloy, but the dirt-road options, well suited to big adventure bikes, will add
some time and offer superb rainforest scenery.
The run back to Cairns can be done on the road for those who prefer it, and would round a great day trip.
Adventure on
A good 350km or so north of Cairns is the incredible Cooktown, steeped in history and giving awesome views across the reef from a lookout on the edge of the small town. There are a few coffee shops, a servo, a couple of pubs and a maritime museum in the town itself, and accom ranging from country pubs to a reasonably flash resort.
But just south of Cooktown is Rossville and The Lion’s Den Hotel.
The Lion’s Den reportedly holds Australia’s longest-running liquor licence, and is a must-visit for adventurers and travellers from around the world. Bikes are welcome and the accom is basic but excellent, ranging from camping to dongers and the canvas-walled, tin-roofed cabins near the swimming hole, ideal for groups of riders. The menu features plenty of pub standards and the servings are huge.
It’s a great day run from Cairns to The Lion’s Den to stay overnight, maybe including a visit to Cooktown.
From Cooktown heading north things get a little more serious, and riders need to ensure they’re competent and well prepared.
A couple of tips: get local advice when riding in FNQ. Talk to bike shops, tour guides, the tourist information centres and other travellers. Conditions change very fast. Creeks can rise and fall several metres in a few hours and tracks will become unpassable in about the same amount of time. Croc threats are real, and locals will often know of sightings on popular roads. Plan any visit to the area between about May and September. The insane topical rain in the summer makes most of the region unrideable.
Above: The Bloomfield Track is a mix of dirt and bitumen skirting along gorgeous tropical beaches and includes a few interesting sections. It’s very popular with four-wheel-drivers who love to watch the bikes have a go.
Below: The Lion’s Den Hotel at Rossville. An excellent stopover after a day’s ride from Cairns.
Top: Cooktown, steeped in history, offers awesome views across the reef from a lookout on the edge of the small town.
CroSSroAdS
Walcha, NsW
Walcha
is a bike-friendly town, there’s no doubt about that.
About 425km north of Sydney, the very small town is at one end of the road-bike guys’ wet dream, the Oxley Highway.
The town itself is small, with a couple of servos and food places, and an amazing hotel which seems to be built around bike memorabilia. It’s also the gateway to the Northern Tablelands and offers access to a big selection of the hard-packed dirt roads with the light covering of sand or granite crystal which gets the big-bike adventure riders so excited – it’s blueribbon riding of the most fun variety.
The big deal about Walcha for the adventure-riding fraternity is really the Walcha Motorcycle Rally – or more specifically, the supported adventure
rides offered over that weekend. Severalhundred riders on everything from Ural sidecar outfits to the latest and greatest high-tech race bikes show up and strut their stuff, and quietly, amid all the high-octane exhaust fumes and burning rubber, the Armidale Adventure Riders put together a few loops which show off the beautiful scenery and awesome riding of the area. There’s camping available at the showground – the headquarters of the event – and pubs and motels in the town and the surrounding area.
The atmosphere of the weekend is incredible. Log on to walchamotorcyclerally.com.au for all the details and mark the weekend of November 15 and 16.
But aside from all the excitement of the Rally weekend, the riding and camping throughout the region for adventure riders is excellent and offers the kind of time away from the hustle and bustle most riders crave. There’s the strop along The Oxley, dodging mad-as-maggots road riders doing their boy-racer thing and sweating on the highway patrol being around the next corner (they usually are), or a wander along the many forest roads which spear off to the east and west. Pick one. To get you started, Cells River Road, a few kilometres west of the Gingers Creek roadhouse and a favourite of the locals, would be a good choice. ‘The Cells’, for those who choose to ride its whole length, becomes Cells Road and emerges back onto the tar at Nowendoc, another amazing and interesting place to stop for fuel and coffee. Make sure you start with a full
tank and take a map or GPS. There’s a few ambiguous forks in the road on the way.
The forest roads in the area are all good. Staying on the bitumen will take a rider through the Cottan-Bimbang National Park and its myriad dirt-road opportunities, and on to bike-friendly Gingers Creek, Long Flat and Wauchope, all of which will usually have riders keen for a yarn.
Less frantic is Thunderbolt’s Way, heading to the northeast. It’s an inland highway, but has some interesting historic sites to visit, mostly signposted and along short dirt roads. A quick look at an NRMA map or Google maps will show a nice dirt-road run through Gostwyck and Mihi. The main dirt roads to look for are Gostwyck Road and Linfield Road. As always, speak to the locals to get the good oil on the best approach and state of things, but it’s rideable pretty much all year round.
The dirt-road run would make a nice, leisurely rumble to Uralla, where there’s excellent coffee shops, pubs, motels, and which is in itself and junction offering lots of possibilities. It’s also the headquarters of Ural Australia, one of the friendliest companies in the country. Drop in on Matt and Clare and make sure you tell them we said hello.
From there it can be an easy tarmac run back to Walcha, or on to Armidale and the fabulous New England region…very much a story in itself.
The choice is all entirely yours, and that’s the very best part of adventure riding.
Left: The hard-packed dirt roads of the NSW Northern Tablelands around Walcha beckon to riders of big adventure bikes.
Below left: ‘The Cells’ is popular with locals, and with good reason. It runs through and over some truly beautiful old-growth forest, historic bridges and for those who appreciate such things, incredibly ancient trees. Make sure of your navigation before you go in.
Below: There’s plenty for the spectators and riders alike at the Walcha motorcycle Rally.
Bottom: The Walcha Rally in November is an annual highlight for riders of all types of machinery.
Image: Bugsy Plowman
Greetings fellow riders, Dan King reporting in from DK ADV. If you’re an adventure enthusiast like me, you’ll appreciate the thrill of exploring the untamed terrains of the Victoria High Country. It’s practically my backyard playground! Today, I’m excited to share my journey of transforming my trusty Husqvarna 701 Enduro into the ultimate lightweight adventure machine. Join me as I delve into the intricate details of the modifications I’ve made, each carefully selected to enhance performance and endurance for those epic long-haul rides. And for those who
prefer a visual feast, head over to my YouTube channel where you can catch the video companion to this article.
Fuel Range
One of the first upgrades I opted for in my quest to extend the fuel range of my 701 Enduro was the Rade Garage fuel tank. Boasting a 5.9-litre capacity, this front tank significantly beefs up the bike’s endurance, offering approximately 50% more fuel capacity and stretching my riding range to a comfortable 350 km. For me, this sweet spot aligns perfectly with the rugged landscapes of the Victoria
High Country and the fuel stops doted through the mountains.
While larger fuel tank options exist on the market, I find the 300 km mark best suits my needs for venturing into remote areas without compromising the bike’s front-end balance. Instead of bulkier safari-style tanks, I prefer to carry additional fuel using fuel bladders if required to venture further. This helps the bike maintain its agility and handling.
Installing the auxiliary fuel tank necessitates removing the factory air box, which Rade Garage also supplies in the kit. I add a foam filter air sock to help
protect the air box from Australian dust. One thing to note with this airbox mod is that you do need to change the air filter after most rides as the dust protection is not on par with the factory one. (I found out the hard way)
For added peace of mind when travelling with other riders, I always pack a spare filter in my kit for extended journeys, ensuring I can swap it out effortlessly midway through the trip.
One common issue with the 701 is the factory fuel cap. I replaced the original fuel cap with a Vanasche Motorsports fuel cap, eliminating the risk of the key getting jammed or snapped—a mishap I’d rather avoid. Additionally, the new cap’s enhanced design features a protective lip, preventing dirt from infiltrating the fuel tank. This is a simple yet crucial improvement for maintaining peak performance. One point to note is that you will lose the ability to lock the Vanasche fuel cap. There are some other options on the market that have a keyed option.
Protection
Now, let’s talk about beefing up the protection on the trusty steed. First up, a
non-negotiable for me on any of my bikes is upgrading the handguards. Opting for Bark Busters with VPS guards, along with some handy risers, not only shields my hands from wind and rain but also adds a robust layer of defence.
“ I replaced the original fuel cap with a Vanasche Motorsports fuel cap, eliminating the risk of the key getting jammed or snapped - a mishap I’d rather avoid. ”
These bad boys have repeatedly proven their durability, enduring multiple hits without so much as a scratch on my clutch or brake levers. If reliability and durability are what you’re after, Bark Busters come highly recommended.
Above: Rade Garage auxiliary tank and airbox.
Moving down the bike’s side, I’ve fortified it with Outback Motortek crash bars. Besides offering added protection, especially for the radiator nestled just behind the plastics, these bars safe-
Left: The finished bike loaded up with luggage ready to ride.
guard against unforeseen mishaps on rough terrain. Coupled with a Rad Guard radiator guard, they form a formidable barrier against rocks and debris that could otherwise spell disaster for one of my off-road escapades.
Beneath, I’ve installed the AXP Racing skid plate, crafted from sturdy eightmillimetre high-density polyethene plastic. Not only does it provide ample safeguarding against impacts, but its unique design also minimizes vibrations and the annoying clattering of stones against metal plates. The AXP skid plate
has been a steadfast companion, proving its worth without fail.
To further fortify the engine’s vulnerable areas, I’ve added triple clamp engine case covers, offering an extra layer of defence against potentially damaging impacts. And for peace of mind, I always carry epoxy resin in my kit, ready to patch up any potential leaks on the fly.
Protecting the ABS sensors is paramount, which is why I’ve opted for Nomad ADV guards. These nifty accessories ensure that pesky sticks and debris don’t interfere with vital cables, keeping the ABS system
intact even in the harshest terrains.
The stock 701 Enduro has exposed header exhaust pipes! To prevent unintentional burns to my gear, I’ve fitted Wings carbon exhaust pipe heat guards. Their sleek carbon fiber finish provides excellent protection and adds a touch of aesthetic flair.
Ergonomics
The thumping single cylinder of the 701 Enduro, with its 74 horsepower, produces some vibrations, which travel up the handlebars, so I’ve just put on some universal hand grips.
When you’re dealing with all those ponies to help dial down the discomfort during those long hauls, I’ve fitted Grip Puppies universal hand grips—an affordable yet effective solution. These puppies not only provide a welcome cushion for my hands but also shield the handlebar grips from premature wear and tear, ensuring a smoother, more enjoyable ride.
Another must-have upgrade for adventure bikes is double-take mirrors, and the ones I’ve installed have proven to be fantastic without breaking the bank. To better suit my taller stature, I’ve added Vanasche Motorsports bar risers, elevating the handlebars by 30 millimetres for a
Above: Vanasche Motorsports Fuel Cap. Left: Bark Busters always come highly recommended. Top right: Outback Motortek Crash bars, AXP Racing skidplate, Triple Clamp Engine Protection & Steg Pegs. Right: Wings Carbon Exhaust Guard.
more ergonomic riding position.
I’ve incorporated a Scott steering damper for enhanced stability, especially during highway cruising and windy conditions. This has made a noticeable difference in taming those unwanted wobbles in the sand and the snotty stuff.
Turning our attention to comfort, I’ve swapped out the stock seat for a Seat Concepts Comfort XL. This wider seat provides superior cushioning, allowing me to stay in the saddle for extended periods without discomfort. To fine-tune the ergonomics further, I’ve opted for a Hammerhead shift lever, which offers customizable length options to accommodate larger boots.
Upgrading the brake lever to a Vanasche Motorsports rear brake pedal enhances durability and allows for personalised adjustments, catering to my larger boot size. Pairing this with the Rade Garage large aluminum footpegs ensures a solid foothold and improved control.
A game-changer in terms of ergonomics is the addition of Steg Pegs. These ingenious contraptions provide invaluable support during grueling climbs in the high country, allowing me to lock my boots against them and alleviate strain on my arms. In sandy desert conditions, they offer added stability, enabling me to find my footing and navigate tricky terrain with ease.
Luggage
Embarking on any grand adventure requires careful consideration of the equipment and gear you’ll need to carry along. For me, the choice of luggage was paramount, and I’ve found the Mosko Moto Reckless 80 V3 system to be an absolute game-changer. These versatile bags offer a hassle-free installation, perfect for those who prefer not to fuss with side pannier racks. Designed with the Husqvarna 701 in mind, accessing the fuel filler cap is a breeze—simply pop off the beavertail and remove the top bag. With ample space to stow all my camping gear and provisions for multiple days, the Reckless 80 ensures I’m well-equipped for any adventure.
However, it’s worth noting a potential issue with the side straps that attach to the heel guard. I’ve had one sheer off due to friction from my boot during extended rides. Thankfully, Mosko Moto’s exceptional customer service promptly resolved the issue under warranty,
highlighting their commitment to customer satisfaction.
To enhance the Mosko Moto bags’ functionality, I’ve upgraded the top rack with a Perun Moto rack and added an extension plate, providing additional tie-down options for securing the load. For quick access to essentials like camera gear and spare batteries, I rely on the Enduristan Sandstorm 4X tank bag—an invaluable companion for on-the-go filming sessions.
Another handy addition to my setup
is the Giant Loop Zigzag handlebar bag. While it’s water-resistant, it’s not fully waterproof, so precautions should be taken in heavy rain. The Enduristan fender bag also serves as a convenient storage spot for a spare tyre tube and essential tools, freeing up space in the main luggage compartments.
Performance
When it comes to performance enhancements, I’ve kept it minimal because frankly, the 701 Enduro is u
huSqvArNA 701 ENduro
Below: Dan King from DK ADV on
already a beast straight out of the gate. Off-road, this machine is a force to be reckoned with, capable of sending shivers down your spine if you’re not prepared!
One common modification riders undertake, is swapping out the original exhaust pipe, which is essentially dead weight. Weighing in at a hefty 6 kilos and housing the catalytic converter, it generates excessive heat, posing heat problems for luggage. Opting for the Wings titanium exhaust has been a game-changer for me, not only shedding weight but also adding a satisfying growl to the bike’s soundtrack. Plus, for those who prefer a quieter ride, the exhaust offers optional baffles to dial down the volume without sacrificing performance.
To fine-tune the bike’s gearing for technical climbs, I’ve switched to a
14-tooth front sprocket. This slight adjustment provides me with more versatility in my rev range, particularly in challenging off-road scenarios where maintaining momentum is crucial. With this setup, second gear feels like a dream, effortlessly powering through obstacles with newfound confidence.
Investing in professional suspension
tuning was a no-brainer for me, and it’s a recommendation I extend to all adventure bike owners. Working with my local suspension expert, I had stiffer springs installed front and rear, meticulously tailored to my weight and gear load. The transformation in handling and control has been nothing
Right: Rade Garage Footpegs & Vanasche Motorsports Rear Brake Pedal.
YouTube.
short of phenomenal, instilling a sense of confidence both on and off the beaten path. While it may require a bit of upfront investment, the dividends it pays in terms of ride quality and performance make it a worthwhile endeavour.
Electronics
I’ve taken steps to enhance the lighting setup on my Husqvarna 701, recognising the need for improved visibility, especially during night-time rides. Upgrading from the stock headlight, I’ve opted for the Cyclops LED headlight, a costeffective solution delivering solid performance at around a hundred bucks. This choice was deliberate, as I’m still undecided about pursuing the rally tower route. After 2 years of riding, I find myself content with my current setup, appreciating the added illumination without committing to a hefty investment. The Cyclops headlight’s performance has been commendable, providing ample brightness without breaking the bank.
Adding functionality to my dashboard, I’ve installed a tachometer from the Berotec company, based in Germany. This simple yet invaluable accessory allows me to monitor engine and ambient temperatures, aiding in outfitting appropriately for varying climates encountered during my travels. Additionally, it provides essential data from the bike, enhancing my overall riding experience.
In line with modern convenience, I’ve integrated an extra USB charger directly wired to the battery, equipped with a voltmeter and convenient on/off switch. This budgetfriendly find from eBay has proven durable, standing up to the rigors of off-road riding. With the demand for charging multiple camera devices, this additional USB port ensures I stay powered up and ready to capture every moment of my adventure.
Tyres
When it comes to tyres, I’ve been riding on the stock TKC 80 on the front, patiently waiting for it to wear down. With only 5000 km on the bike, there’s still some life left in it. While I haven’t found the TKC 80 to be too shabby, I’ve decided to explore other options for my next front tire. Instead, I’ll be leaning towards an 80% off-road and 20% road style tire, considering the plethora of choices available in the market.
On the rear, I’ve equipped the Motoz Adventure Tractionator, and I must say, it’s been nothing short of impressive. During my recent winter escapades, including navigating through heavy clay terrain alongside my riding buddy, this tire proved its mettle. In fact, it held its own against his Dunlop 606, providing ample grip and performance. If you’re in the market for a reliable and versatile tire, I can’t recommend the Tractionator enough—it’s truly a standout performer.
If you’re considering the Husqvarna 701 Enduro, let me assure you—just go for it! These machines are truly exceptional. With my insights into my setup and experiences, I can confidently say that the 701 is an adventure lover’s dream ride. And if you’re seeking inspiration for High Country exploration, be sure to swing by my YouTube channel. You’ll find a wealth of trip ideas and motivation to gather your mates, gear up, and hit the trails. I look forward to crossing paths with you out there on the trail. Cheers, Dan - DK ADV
Bloody Good Riders
You may have noticed motorcycles running about with a ‘Blood Bikes Australia’ logo on their luggage or bike. They aren’t a newly formed motorcycle club but a volunteer group helping to fill some gaps in the health care system.
BBA was inspired by a similar Bloodbikes organization in the UK and Ireland. The Australian organization offers a last resort, free service transporting blood and medical supplies to wherever it is needed. It is important to note, that it is only used when the regular services are either unavailable or
overwhelmed, it’s not out there to compete or take work from other services. No money is exchanged, not even donations. The motorcyclist volunteers their time and pays for their uniform vest, equipment, and all bike expenses. They undertake a certified national training program for transporting blood and initial mentoring before qualifying.
In 2019, BBA founder Peter Davis set up in Brisbane, starting small transporting blood and grew to 9 volunteers transporting an array of pathology, medicines, and equipment. At the time I spoke with Peter, his band of volunteers had
Words: Holly Fields Images: Blood Bikes Australia
Above: Paul Malcolm and Carolyn Byrne.
Top right: Robert Christomalidis Victorian Co-ordinator and Peter Davis BBA Founder.
Right: Volunteer Brian Lacey.
Left: Bloodbikes logo.
expanded nationally with 326 volunteers, servicing 66 healthcare providers in all states and territories, both in metropolitan, regional, and rural areas. Distance is no barrier occasionally doing a relay of up to 3 riders. Last week alone they covered 6,292 km nationally. To date, they have completed 6,720 deliveries covering 691,234kms.
Contrary to its name, BBA transports more than just blood which amounts to only 5% of their deliveries. During COVID-19, as the regular services became overwhelmed with the demand for PCR testing, BBA was kept busy bolstering the healthcare system by transporting the extra samples for processing. This included supporting the local and international film industry to stay functioning by transporting their mandated PCR tests each day from the restricted sets.
In Melbourne, the volunteers transport from a hospital that harvests critical eye components to facilities providing implantation services.
Far right: Victorian volunteers with Lions Eye Bank staff.
Left: Bill Dusting and bike.
Right: Tim Stevenson.
Below: Paul Malcolm Brisbane Co-ordinator with volunteers.
Before BBA assistance, the staff from these facilities transported the components in their own time after a full day’s work. BBA is filling the gap, thus giving the health professionals their well-deserved time back, plus expediating delivery.
BBA also delivers vital medicines and immune therapies to house-bound patients. The service also transports clinical trial tests, biopsies, stem cells, paperwork, and even personal items accidentally left behind during discharge. They hope to soon aid in transporting donated breast milk.
It isn’t all routine either. Late on a Christmas Eve, a doctor in a regional town, a good 6-7 hrs away from the city, made contact. The volunteer was returning home after a delivery and was asked if he could go back into the city to collect the urgently needed medication from a children’s hospital, he had only a short time to get it to the airport to a waiting aircraft. It was well coordinated, with hospital staff waiting for him, the security guards at the airport ready to direct him to the aircraft, and a baby receiving critical care when services were shutting
down for the Christmas period.
Speaking with BBA members Paul Malcolm, Carolyn Byrne, Brian Lacey, Brian Quintal, Bill Dusting and Tim Stevenson, all state they enjoy volunteering their time. The common theme is they appreciate being able to help the community while incorporating something they love doing. It’s a win/win.
BBA as they expand is looking for more volunteers. you can commit as much or as little of your time in a very supportive environment. Information can be found at www.bloodbikesaustralia.com.au.
Explore
The Yarra Ranges
Healesville via Donna Buang Road, Acheron Way, Marysville to Reefton
Words and Images: Heather Ellis
TThe Yarra Ranges Explore ride Experience on 24 March 2024 was one of six rides offered by Adventure Rider Magazine and Australian Motorcyclist in concert with World On Wheels. If you just grabbed a subscription, this means that with the pub lunch thrown in thanks to World On Wheels, it was a pretty good deal in the present ‘Costa Living Crisis’. When you account for the lunch, it made six mags on a yearly subscription just $26! Plus they had me and the ‘black princess’ (aka Triumph Thruxton 900cc with tyre pressures dropped a bit to handle the dirt), as their trusty tour leader! With my
“ Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, Adventure Rider Magazine – with the generous sponsorship cooperation of World On Wheels - came together to offer 6 Explore ride experiences in the first half of 2024. ”
Yamaha TT600 in for its rebuild with Vince at Just Dirt Bikes in Derrimut, VIC, I’ll soon no longer be using my Thruxton for my off-road exploits.
My proposed Yarra Ranges day ride is one of my favourites, which I have ridden many times over the past 20+ years I’ve lived in the area. And I was keen to show it off. At first, I had five riders, but there were only three of us on the day, a perfect sunny 24C. We were also blessed that the entire planned route had just been opened. Land slips had closed the Donna Buang Road (for over a year), the Acheron Way (several months) and more recently the Reefton Spur (road works were
finished two days before our ride). And with the dirt recently graded, and most people not realising these roads were opened, traffic had not yet embedded the dreaded corrugations.
The ride started in Healesville with Kathy from Dandenong on her BMW GS 1200 and Bruce from Rosebud on his Triumph Tiger 900. We headed up Don Road curving through the bends and
Left: Donna Buang Road - a single lane track winds through Mountain Ash forest.
Above: YarraRanges route map.
Below: The Acheron River close to the road on the Acheron Way.
hairpins as we climbed Mt Toolebewong to Panton Gap. Here we hit our first stretch of dirt on Donna Buang Road, a single lane track, which skirts around Mt Donna Buang for 15kms. I love this road as it winds through some of the most stunning and tallest mountain ash in the Yarra Ranges. But with the road recently opened, a few 4WDs have discovered it as a cut through to Healesville and at a photo stop, we realised we really were blessed when a 4WD touring a caravan blasted past. ‘Good thing we didn’t meet that on one of those hairpins,’ I said
voicing Kathy and Bruce’s thoughts. Being so close to Melbourne, you’re always likely to find some traffic on the Yarra Ranges back roads so looking through the bends is second nature for any adventure rider. After a stop at the Mt Donna Buang Observation Tower, we headed down the mountain a bit before taking on the Acheron Way and about 16kms of dirt with a photo stop on the Acheron River at a swimming hole perfect if you come up this way in summer.
For our coffee stop in Marysville, I took Kathy and Bruce to Freshly Blended, a
quaint little café (and where all the locals go). Access is via the car park behind the Marysville Bakery or a narrow laneway from the main road. With seating in a stunning outdoor garden, in winter, it’s the perfect spot to soak up the sun while sipping on your latte and munching on a freshly baked muffin (I recommend the raspberry and white chocolate).
The last leg of our Explore Ride was down the Reefton Spur for 44kms to the historic Reefton pub and lunch, which was included thanks to World On Wheels. With new owners and a modern Australian
menu including a few Thai options with good sized servings, it was thumbs up from us all to a delicious lunch. I’ll be back for the Thai Beef Salad for sure. To end the ride, I threw in a copy of my first book Ubuntu: One Woman’s Motorcycle Odyssey Across Africa, with Kathy wining the draw.
If you’re looking for a relaxing day ride to the Yarra Ranges away from the maddening Melbourne crowd, you can’t beat this ride. When Kathy, Bruce and I shared photos after the ride, we all commented just how refreshed and ready to tackle the work week we were after our Sunday ride. We started at 9:30am and said our goodbyes at 3:00pm even though the ride is just 120kms and takes just over two hours with no stops. But stopping and soaking in the forest is what it is all about when you’re deep in the Yarra Ranges.
To read more about Heather Ellis and to purchased her books visit: www.heather-ellis.com
Top left: After a long closure due to a land slip, few have discovered Donna Buang Road is now open.
Bottom far left: Freshly Blended café, a hidden gem in Marysville, just behind the bakery.
Bottom left:Lunch at the Reefton Pub compliments of World On Wheels. Thank you. It was delicious.
Right: Stopping to admire the forest is a must. Below: A quick stop for mountain spring water on Donna Buang Road.
Bottom right: Kathy wins the draw for a copy of Heather’s first book Ubuntu.
Fascists
The Ural is arguably one of the most capable adventure vehicles ever made. That it was built on the mouldering bones of fascists only makes it ever more so appealing…
Words: Boris Mihailovic Images: Matt McIntyre
On the bones of I
love this thing. I cannot help myself. Look at it. How can a man not smile when he beholds such a creation? This is absolute function over form. If it had “I go bloody everywhere”, written on it, no-one would be in any doubt. It even comes with a goddamn shovel.
The Ural outfit makes utter sense when you want to ride across the endless Russian steppes, its boundless taiga forests, fording mighty rivers, and wondering if the bears will eat your head first or last. And you thought that shovel was just for digging, huh?
So, if it makes sense in that environment, then it makes just as much sense here in Australia – where we have far fewer bears, and the temperature doesn’t quite get
to minus-60 in the winter – but we have enough rugged outback to make a Ural a smart choice.
So let’s get a few things out of the way first, shall we?
It is pronounced “Ooh-rhal”, not “You-ral”, and the name is taken from the Ural Mountains in Russia, which stretch north-south from the islands of Novaya Zemlya in the Arctic, all the way south to the Ural River in Kazakhstan. This is the range that is traditionally viewed as the geological separation of continental Europe and Asia.
I’m only telling you this so you’ll sound like you know what you’re talking about when someone asks you about your vintage outfit – which is not vintage at all.
What it actually is, is stupidly capable of getting you to places and along roads you might very well not have the skill to ride a bike to or along.
And after all, this is not a bike, is it? There is no counter-steering involved and when you stop, you don’t have to put your feet down because it will just sit there.
It handles differently in left-handers than it does in right handers. Pushing hard in right-handers can be a full upper-body work-out. There’s lots of traction, some crabbing, but if you plan your exit and entry, you should come out the other end. Left-handers are very different. The sidecar will lift quite easily if you enter the bend sharpish, and several things may then occur.
The best scenario is that you will float the boat majestically and skilfully, safe in the knowledge that it will not tip all the way over, and that you “have this” – which admittedly comes with practice.
The worst scenario is that you will shit yourself, button off, try and put your feet down, and the whole extravaganza will crash to the earth, tearing off one of your legs, and death-wobbling you into a tree.
Not like a motorcycle at all, huh?
Then there is the two-wheel-drive aspect of it.
A simple lever on the right-hand side engages the sidecar wheel via a dogclutch set-up, and if you thought onewheel drive was pretty good in the rough stuff, prepare to be amazed. On sealed surfaces, just leave it in one-wheel drive and you won’t be fighting its tendency to want to overtake itself.
Nothing happens quickly in terms u
of acceleration. There are 41 horses and 57Nm of torque. There are only four gears and a reverse (also activated by a lever on the right-hand side of the bike), and while it will sit on 100-110 all day, it takes maybe until lunchtime to get there. Yes, they will do 120-and-a-bit, but they are not happy at those speeds, and neither will you be.
At the speed limit, they are relatively neutrally behaved in a straight line, and you’re not really fighting it so much as keeping a guiding hand upon the tiller as it were.
Of course, it really is about the dirt –and this is where the Ural shines. Mud, ruts, rocks, steep descents and ascents, and trails which you would never
IT’S RUSSIAN, RIGHT?
Well, yes. And no.
The first Ural was modelled on a BMW sidecar called the R71. Legend has it five of these were secretly purchased by helpful Swedes and brought to Russia in the late Thirties. In all likelihood, the Germans (ironically, as it turned out) simply supplied their Russian then-allies with the drawings.
In any case, Soviet engineers created or reverseengineered the Beemers, and in 1941 showed Papa Stalin the Dniepr M-72 – one of which still exists in the IMZ-Ural factory in Irbit, Russia. IMZ stands for ‘Irbitsky Mototsikletny Zavod’ (Irbit Motorcycle Factory).
But where is Irbit?
It’s a few hundred kms north of Kazakhstan in the Sverdlovskaya Oblast region of Russia – which is sort of in the middle there. If you get to the town of Alapayevsk from Yekaterinburg and turn right, you’ll find it. If you hit Verkhnaya Sinyachikha, you’ve gone too far.
The Ural factory was there because that’s where Stalin moved it to so it would not fall into German hands as the Nazis advanced into Russia. And it was left there after the war. Probably in case the Germans ever decided to come back for another crack.
So, the state-owned IMZ was transformed into a private entity in 1992, then in 1998 it was bought by a RussianGeorgian businessman called Kakha Benukizde, and promptly started going broke. Production stopped in 2000. Benukidze sold the company to the current CEO, Ilya Khait, a Russian-born American and two of his mates, and after some major restructuring, Ural was back in business, focusing entirely on building sidecars.
When Russia’s Special Military Operation in the Ukraine kicked off, the resultant sanctions forced Ural to relocate its assembly facilities to Petropavl in Kazakhstan, some 600km south of Irbit.
And here we are today.
even attempt on a bike, are the Ural’s meat’n’taters. The ease with which the outfit manages off-road work is truly brilliant.
But be prepared to ride it and engage with it. The laws of physics remain constant, and in rough terrain, you are required to abide by those laws and understand the whole sidecar paradigm.
It is very unlikely something will go pear-shaped, but if it does, understand it will be on a scale you could scarce believe possible. With any luck, you will be crushed and maimed, and death will be quick.
But like I said, this is highly unlikely. You are far more likely to brutalise yourself on a normal bike out on the scrub than you are on one of these.
As you might expect, change and development on the Urals is glacial –and much of it is governed by emission laws – which will explain the beaut steam-punk look of the exhaust system.
The seat is very comfy, but it has a gel-layer on the top. This gel turns into lava when you leave the bike in the sun, and does move under your arse in spirited riding, which is initially off-putting, but you get used to it and just go with the squirming effect.
There are no ride-modes, but there is a hand-brake.
The headlights work…but
you really have no business riding around at night in the wilderness because something may well eat you. Let’s just say the lumens are legal, and be at peace.
The blinkers and lights are all vast and may well be seen from space if they were brighter.
The tank holds 19 litres, with around four in reserve, and that is good for more than 300km.
It is shaft-driven – as is the sidecar wheel when you decide to engage twowheel-drive, the shocks are Sachs, the brakes Brembo, and the knobby tyres are German Heindenaus, a company which specialises in rugged off-road hoops, perfect for the Ural.
It has a huge boot in the back of the sidecar, a very extensive tool kit, a jerry can to carry extra fuel, the anti-bear shovel I mentioned earlier, and a spare tyre and wheel which replaces any of
the three wheels you might destroy in your travels. There’s even some touchup paint.
There have been some marked improvements this year, with better casting and more precise machining of the all-new crankcase. The two-piece front-bearing housing has been redesigned and comes with a bolt-on oil-squirter, and there’s new rubber seal between the case and the rearbearing housing.
The flat-head tappets have been replaced with roller tappets, which has reduced wear, and permitted more consistent adjustment of the valve-clearances.
And all the U-joints on the side car have been replaced with CV-joints.
So it is a better mousetrap.
The over-arching feel of the Ural remains one of serious robustness. I have seen these things ford fastrunning Siberian rivers submerged to the top of the petrol tank, and emerge the other side with the rider hooting and laughing. They are uncomplicated, very ruggedly- made and able to cope with a fair amount of extremely trying conditions and roads.
It is very much the ultimate kind of Adventure vehicle, but it is not for everyone, and nor should it be. And what’s not to love about that?
THE PEOPLE SPEAK
Childrenwave at you when you ride this this. People stare. Motorcyclists of my vintage smile and pore over every detail – and there are lot of details – and wonder how such a thing is still made in this day and age.
The reaction of passengers varies. And I know this because I once worked as a side-car-driving tour-guide for tourists keen to experience the sights of Sydney inside the Ural’s rather roomy boat.
My clientele varied from over-fed matrons, still jet-lagged and drunk from the plane, to starry-eyed couples keen to try something new while their tattooed tour-guide yelled at them to sit still and keep their arms inside the sidecar.
And you can take two people – one in the boat and one on the back of the actual bike.
The whole outfit weighs 331kg, but it can happily chug along, fully loaded, at 600kg. The operative word there you will note is “chug”.
My wife, Lynette, hates being a side car passenger. She says it terrifies her, and while she is quite happy to sit behind me at 200km/h on a normal bike, her time in the sidecar is an exercise in naked fear.
Mates I’ve carted around usually laugh. When I float the boat (lift the sidecar into the air), this laughter either increases or stops, depending on the mate.
So, you either like it or hate it.
I took Aaron’s young daughter, Maisie, for a spin around the bloke, and she kept telling me to go faster, as if the poor child imagined that was any kind of option available to me.
In terms of riding such a thing…well, you can either do it or you can’t. I have seen experienced motorcyclists like Aaron hop on, and almost immediately get the third wheel into the air on left-hand turns. I have also seen experienced motorcyclists wobble around paddocks for ten minutes before hopping off, trembling and swearing they would never attempt such a thing ever again.
The Ural is, by any measure, an acquired taste.
The A to Z of
Aussie towns
After her 3-month adventure across the USA and Canada in late 2023 and bringing home 3 awards from Sturgis including a ‘People’s Choice’, Chris resumes her exploration of Australia with a new Series. “The Best Town
in Australia” from A to Z.
The quest for the best town in Australia becomes a delightful challenge for Chris, as she seeks out the hidden treasures of small, quirky places. With six towns already explored and twenty more awaiting discovery, the anticipation builds, especially for the elusive letter X.
So far Chris has visited Walhalla, Clunes, Maryville, Timboon, Violet Town, Hill End and Fish Creek! Places full of character and characters! And only 20 characters to go in the alphabet!
Ever the community-minded adventurer, Chris continues her tradition of offering free makeovers to local legends, infusing her adventures with laughter and camaraderie. Documenting, filming, and editing her own content, she invites viewers to join her on her journey through her YouTube channel, @barberingbiker, where playlists offer easy access to her diverse range of content. For example, the USA / Canada 3-month adventure is there and with 2 episodes a week being released until episode 70 is
Images: Chris Keeble
done will take that viewing till August 2024. There is Japan, New Zealand, Makeovers, and more.
For those eager to join her on the road or nominate a deserving local legend or the best town in Australia, Chris extends an open invitation to reach out to her via her website or social platforms. As her adventures unfold, she embodies the spirit of a cheeky, feisty grandmother on two wheels, weaving together facts, fiction, and endless trivia for all to enjoy.
Chris is also looking forward to taking charge of another bike for the shed with a new Royal Enfield Himalayan yet to arrive in Australia. That will open up some tracks the Chief can’t take her.
Regarding her 3-month adventure, Chris captured and filmed the entire overseas adventure and has produced 70 episodes from the early planning
stages to the final wrap up.
While her vlogs are naturally motorbike centric and capturing the roads. Chris’s content captures many more points of interest. Her fascination with history,
people, mysteries and ‘The Bush Telegraph’ brings a certain variety element to her content.
chris@barberingbiker.com
Her website is: www.barberingbiker.com.
selected Facebook followers Aussie town sign photos pp. 98-99.
Golden
Hills
The trip to Hill End offers Sydneysiders everything an adventure rider could possibly want.
Words: Pete Vorst Images: Motohead
The journey from Sydney to the historic gold rush town of Hill End has become a popular route for adventure riders, and for good reason. The scenery for much of the way is gorgeous, and the terrain isn’t terribly difficult unless you want it to be. Plus, Hill End is just the right distance from Sydney for a dirty weekend away. With a tickle in my throat that would no doubt morph into a chronic case of Friday-man-flu and a Harley-Davidson Pan America sitting in my shed, I felt this incredible urge to get away. I decided it was best to chuck a sickie and head to Hill End. The fresh air, good riding, and liberal splashes of bourbon at the Royal Hotel would no doubt have me shipshape for
work on Monday – after all, alcohol is a disinfectant!
Hill End lies approximately 270km from the heart of Sydney and was a booming gold mining town in the 1860s. These days, it’s managed by the NPWS and offers a glimpse into life during that era. The town is populated by an assortment of local characters, struggling artists living off government support, and on the weekends, a liberal dose of adventure bikes and their riders.
My planned route, which keeps dirt under one’s wheels for a solid portion of the trip, saw me taking the beautiful corner-infused tarmac of The Bells Line of Road from Sydney’s northwest over the Blue Mountains. I then hung a left onto Old Bells Line of Road at Clarence, saying goodbye to the tarmac until the Blackfellows Hand Trail popped me out onto the bitumen of Wolgan Road.
The Blackfellows Hand trail can be rough, mainly due to the weekend 4WD warriors tearing it up. There are also a few sandy corners and huge water-filled craters in some sections, but it is worth the trip if only for the high sandstone pagodas rimmed u
with bright green ferns as you near Wolgan Road. It is an amazing place, just a little bit creepy, and it’s worth going for a walk to check out the ancient Aboriginal hand paintings while you’re there.
The trail crosses Wolgan Road and transforms into the Bicentennial National Trail. The climb up to the ridgeline is steep, rough, and rocky, but once you’re up there, the riding is solid, and the views are spectacular.
The trail emerges onto the Castlereagh Highway at Ben Bullen’s now-abandoned railway station. From there, it’s a short 11.8km of sealed road run before turning left onto Turon Gates Road toward Sofala, leading onto some of the most brilliant adventure riding roads you’ll find. This scenically spectacular section is 99% dirt and mostly fast and flowing, following the Turon River for much of the way. There are a few creek crossings and causeways to conquer, but the riding isn’t particularly challenging if you have half a clue.
After the historic town of Sofala, it should be a fast and fun 35-kilometre sealed road run to Hill End. The kangaroo population along this stretch of road is frighteningly u
large, so proceed with caution around dusk and dawn.
My planned route should have taken me just over five hours. However, with a stop to fix a flat tyre at the top of the National Bicentennial Trail climb and having to creep along at 60km/h for the last 30-odd kilometres of the trip to avoid being hit by an Eastern Grey kangaroo, the trip took just over seven hours. Due to my leisurely departure time, I rolled into Hill End at night, with frayed nerves, exhausted, scared out of my wits from being aimed at by kangaroos, and very, very thirsty.
After spending a very relaxed weekend catching up with old mates and getting to know Avon, the very interesting bartender at the Royal Hotel (ask him about his book if you have a few hundred hours to spare), I headed home via the Bridle Track. Established as a route between Bathurst and Hill End for those seeking their fortunes on the gold fields of Hill End back in the 1860s, the track can look like it hasn’t been serviced since it was built, depending on when you come along.
The track follows the Turon and Macquarie rivers, and the whole stretch is as close to adventure bike heaven as you can get. Although closed for many years due to a landslide, that has been rectified now. There is evidence of the gold rush everywhere, and the land is pockmarked with long-abandoned diggings. There are some wonderfully interesting artifacts along the route if you’re willing to slow down and take it in.
It is 66km from Hill End to Bathurst, and due to a sore head and another late start, once I reached Bathurst, I opted to highway it back to Sydney. However, there are a million ways to get back to the big smoke from Bathurst that are far more interesting, but I don’t have the word count to run through here; perhaps another time.
Chuck Me Farley!
Words and Images: Andy Strapz
This little tinted, feathered water bird was putting together an adventurous ride in the US.
An offer of a bed, a feed and a DR650 was too good to let go through to the keeper!
One doesn’t embark on such a sojourn without getting health insurance wrapped up tightly. If you end up on the wrong side of the tyres in the Good ‘Ole US of… in fact, anywhere OS, a band-aid might cost you your house.
As it was the Land of the Long White Litigation, I spent time reading the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). What a minefield! We now live in a time of just ticking the T&C box and ploughing on. I must put my hand up to that approach on the interweb most of the time.
Over there, the ambos feel for a wallet before a pulse! The resuscitation acronym over there is: IABC - Insurance, Airway, Breathing, Circulation.
With that in mind I felt I had to get a very strong handle of just what I was and wasn’t covered for.
Some policies would only allow me to ride a hired bike, I was planning to loan a mate’s DR. But… they would require it to be hired from a formal hire company with a proper contract. My gear was only covered ‘in transit’ and $500 per item, but, that was after depreciation, if you have your great grandfather’s immunisation record and original receipts. Nothing… bugger all… SFA, is covered if it is pinched off the bike, locked or not. Stiff bickies if it gets damaged for any reason other than if the baggage handlers trowel it.
My head near exploded the more I dug, it seemed to be there are more escape routes than a Dreamliner sans door... More maybes than a politician’s promise.
To try and narrow things down and create some clarity, I set out a list of must includes.
Coverage when riding a motorcycle – loaned not hired.
An ambulance trip and treatment in a hospital. A pair of new specs in a hurry if mine go through the back wheel.
And, crucially, repatriation home if the wheels fell off in a big way.
I was planning to head into the northern states and should one of those nasty natural disasters the US seems to excel at stuff my plans I thought it wise to be across what they’d do to help. One paragraph went like this – “ if you cannot travel because a natural disaster has caused your travel service provider to cancel your pre-paid service and does not provide an alternative. (This is only applicable if you have purchased the Natural Disaster upgrade option and this is shown on your policy schedule. This does not include those which were known at the time of purchasing this insurance.)”. Note the travel service provider cancelling the pre-paid service. That’s a moto ashtray if I’m wandering on me Todd!
Vague email replies such as the one below were common when I asked specific scenario questions – “It would depend what you are wanting to make a claim towards. The Natural Disaster cover is a blanket coverage for the whole policy. So, if impacted by a natural disaster you
can claim towards the section in the policy which was impacted. It would also depend on what you are out of pocket for. If the storm had prevented you from attending a certain tour then we may provide cover”.
It’s all made worse by the seeming inability for anyone to read a whole email these days. It seems most recipients can only deal with one simple topic at a time. I went back and forth in a game of email tennis.
I guess like all insurance, it’s akin to financial services piracy. Sure, I get it, there is no shortage of dodgy punters who’d write off their granny if they could wangle a pay out, unfortunately, that stuffs the rest of us up. But… insurance is such a distrusted industry that many feel that they are fair game.
When it comes to bike insurance OS, OMG, you want complex! It seems to me that the only reason to have it is if the bike is written off or pinched. If you think through claims process, repair times and language complexities, we have to be prepared to walk away from the bike…
ANdy StrApz
kiss it goodbye. Unless we have the luxury of sitting about for weeks waiting for it to be fixed.
Being injured OS is no trifling matter, as much as we whine and moan about our health system, it’s probably still one of the best in the world. ‘Self-insuring’ with excellent gear, thoughtful riding and a generous dose of luck are likely to ensure we don’t need to end up in a sticky predicament in the first place.
Reading the PDS and shopping around to get the best possible coverage is imperative. As the bolshy, lefty actress said the bishop – Caveat Emptor…
Morven The Way to
Words and Images: Col Whelan
Was a dead ‘orse that brought me to Morven.
Not just any old dead ‘orse but one of our greatest ever horses before it became dead in America and no it wasn’t Phar Lap. But many experts reckon he was just as good. My dad first told me about this amazing
horse, one of the first five inducted into our Racing Hall of Fame and how he lifted the spirits of a nation in the days after WW2. Slowly over the last few years I’ve been collecting pieces of the jigsaw which was the horse’s extraordinary life.
Bernborough was bred at Rosalie Plains a bit north of Oakey by a bloke named Harry Winten, the great grandson of a pair of convicts. Harry, whose limited patience with red tape and bureaucracy, saw him in more than his share of problems, (and which in part endeared him to me) had no progeny of his own (he died three months before the foal that became Bernborough was born).
The dam and foal were bought at Winten’s dispersal sale by a grifter named Fred Bach who would’ve had trouble lying straight in bed. He’d been disqualified for life by the QTC for doing a ‘Fine Cotton’ and winning races with a rung-in horse. Bernborough, because he was owned by a disqualified
u
Left: Morven Hotel Sadleirs Waterhole. Above: Morven -- 4 of the couples.
person, was banned from all racetracks in Australian except Toowoomba and so lost his best racing years.
In 1946 he was sold to a spiv named Azzalin Orlando Romano and once free to run, won 15 races straight including the Doomben 10,000 (as it’s now known) and the Doomben Cup in successive weeks. Down to the involvement of Bach and his band of shadies, plus the colour of “Dazzlin” Azzalin Romano (who still has the best pub in Wagga Wagga named after him) Bernberough is the subject of the first chapter of my next book on the great shonks of our past, both deep and recent. Yes, I’m mining a rich vein.
So, when I hear that Harry’s great-greatgrand-nephew lives in Morven and has had more than a bit to do with the local pub, I figure it’s time to take Super Ten on a 5,000km ride to check it all out.
First night is camping out at an old favourite, the Byrock Waterholes after a
good feed and yarn with other travelers at the Mulga Creek pub. Then it’s a shorter day of 5 hours up to the Angellala Bridge about 25kms south of Charleville.
Might as well get this sorted now, it’s pronounced “Ange” (as in Postecoglu) – “e” (short as in egg) – “lala” (that bit’s easy)we’ll be mentioning it again a bit later, and it was the site of the biggest transportation explosion in Australia when, in 2014, a truck carrying 53 tonnes
“ It was destroyed by fire and for the first time in 160 plus years, the town formerly known as Waterholes, was without its watering hole. ”
Above left: Morven Burnt Pub.. Above: Gidgee Camp Morven. Below: Morven Sadleirs Waterhole entrance.
of ammonium nitrate blew up when diesel mixed with the load.
It measured 2.1 on the Richter scale and was equivalent to 15 tonnes of TNT. Spans of the adjacent railway line were vaporized and have never been replaced. It’s a chilling monument complete with detailed information boards and well worth a stop even if you’re not overnighting, There’s a decent spot to camp at the bottom of the turning circle of the pull-off area on the eastern side of the highway.
Next morning it’s Saturday lunch at the elegant Corones Hotel in Charleville where, for 3 hours I’m the only customer in the bar and then end up staying the night so I can wash some gear and enjoy
a bed rather than heading out of town to the Rock Pool just off the south side of the highway some 10 kms out of town.
Next day it’s an easy ride east to Morven. About 3kms before you get there, there’s a T intersection with the Landsborough highway on your left heading up to Barcaldine. If you pause here and look at all the land to your left, you’re overseeing the sheep pastures on Victoria Downs Station.
Alfred Percy Lord, the grandson of convict-turned Sydney-based sharp operator Simeon Lord bought this 30,000 acre property in 1906 and one of his sons, Robert took the reins in 1922. It was Robert Lord who imported Peppin merino stock and formed the foundation of a legacy which sees Victoria Downs still one of the pre-eminent merino studs in Qld. And right now, in the wake of extraordinary rains, the country’s looking stunning.
But back then the station didn’t just have sheep. In the late 1850’s part of the huge property – around fifty acres adjacent to a curving billabong known
after the first white passer-through as Sadleir’s Waterhole -- was excised and reserved for public use. A bit of a town sprang up, centering at first around a Cobb & Co changing station and then of course a pub.
Seems the Waterhole was no more
refined than other part of the sticks. In 1875 the postman sued the publican’s wife with attempting to drag him from his horse, and assault him with a large rock whilst using ‘language more expressive than elegant’ – a habit which the newspaper noted was ‘an u
Above: Morven Hotel at night.
Right: Morven steak and chips.
accomplishment which the ladies about Sadleir’s Waterholes excel’.
The Lord family had been in the area for a decent few years before buying the sheep station and around this time one of ‘em was the publican, and he must’ve felt right at home. A year after the postiepublican’s-missus brawl, Lord was hauled before court at Charleville charged with using ‘language which is perfectly shocking from the tongue of a snob.’ He was ‘mulet’ (nice bit of old slang) five quid and again the local rag noted, “Mr Lord has recently been bought out by his partner, (at the Sadleir’s Waterholes Hotel) and judiciously so”.
The pub was known as the Victoria Downs Hotel. It survived all the vicissitudes and was still going 25 years later when the Lords took over Victoria Downs.
It may’ve originally been down beside the waterholes and moved at some stage to its current position on the east-west highway but even as the town shrank and other shops closed, it kept going, right up until 2016.
When it was destroyed by fire and for the first time in 160 plus years, the town formerly known as Waterholes, was
without its watering hole.
A local fella bought the disaster site and the licenses for both liquor and the pokies but, despite great intentions, he couldn’t make a go of it and the place languished. With no-one coming into town for a drink and a feed, the small general store also shut down. The place was on its knees.
By July 2019 the locals had had enough of watching with parched throats as their social fabric frayed so in July that year a meeting was called at the Morven Race track and around 15 families turned up. It was decided to form a company and eventually 8 of them stayed the distance and bought equal shares in the venture.
The aim wasn’t to create a communityowned pub, it was to create a new hotel, to get it up and running and then to sell it.
Which they did.
Above: Hotel urinals.
Top right: Engine Sauce.
Bottom left: Morven Pick a Box.
Below: Morven Hotel Motel unit.
In 2021 they sold it. In return for their 5 figure investments, each director reaped a profit of $2.40. Not quite enough for a 7 oz.
When I rock up on a hot Sunday arvo there’s a knuckle of blokes on the deck who’ve just finished loading a demolished corrugated iron shed from out the back onto a truck. They’re all in those blue or green long-sleeved shirts of bush workers and it turns out one of ‘ems Pat, who’s in the process of buying the pub. The rest are locals who’re bogging in to help him put his mark on the place.
Pat reckons that rather than being charitable, they’re all working off their bar
Left: Morven Motel room.
tabs, and they reckon the only reason he’s come back to town from the Sunny Coast is guilt for stealing the town’s best looking sheila back in the day.
The banter on the deck continues as inside a group grows around the pool table where the Sunday pool comp with a $300 prize is ramping up and then more locals rock up including Dave Winten and his sister.
“ The aim wasn’t to create a communityowned pub, it was to create a new hotel, to get it up and running and then to sell it. Which they did. ”
I switch tables and we get Bernborough out of the way first. Dave can’t remember when he first learnt that his great-greatgrand-uncle bred the champion, or for that matter, when he learnt he was descended from a convict. It’s always been in his mindset, always been something he’s been quietly proud of. He remembers driving through Oakey when the highway split the town and pausing at the horse’s statue out from of the Council Chambers, heading up to Rosalie Plains and visiting the old homestead and stables.
He gives me some tips on places to go, where Harry Winten is buried and the contacts of the family genealogist in Toowoomba to visit when I’m there.
And then we get on to saving the pub.
“Eight families, sixteen directors with
Onthe wall just inside the main door there’s a plaque honoring the saving of the pub and listing the 8 families. At the bottom is the line:
“We achieved what we set out to do, we built the pub in town … and it stands proud as a reminder of what can be achieved when like-minded people set their minds to a task”.
This sense of pride in what the town did is tangible throughout the pub. You won’t get from the door to the bar without a cheery, welcoming face and although this wasn’t and isn’t a community-owned pub, the feeling exuded by the staff and all the visitors is akin to it.
There’re six beers on tap and a well-stocked fridge. A schooner’s going to cost you $8.60 which is pretty standard in these parts.
The meals are standard with a prevalence for deep-fried but there are regular themed days of pizza, pies and peas, bottomless pasta, curry etc., and their cost is damn reasonable.
The pub’s on a huge block which includes an old house whose days are numbered, and the Pick a Box Motel. But all the rooms are configured for two or more people and there’s no discount from the $150 a night for single riders. No undercover or lock-up parking. If you’re after a room, much better value at Corones back at Charleville but if you’re camping there’s a few options.
Just head down the side of the pub, past the Waterholes then take the right into the Recreation Grounds where you can throw your tent or swag close to the water or undercover if it’s wet. Amenities are open 24/7 and your 5 buck payment can be slipped into the honesty box. This is easy walking back to the pub for meals. There’s also Gidgees Bushcamp 1km west along Roma St (T: 0407 620 360).
Value of Money (excluding accommodation): Good Unique Character: 5/5. Its story and its friendliness are top shelf Motorcycle Friendly: With the lack of single accommodation and no special bike facilities: 3 Helmets
A tremendously enjoyable hotel. Don’t pass it by.
Sadleir’s Waterhole Hotel
Warrego Hwy, Morven Qld
T: 07 4654 8058
FB: Morven Hotel –Sadleir’s Waterhole Open every day from 10.00am.
RATED 3 OUT OF 5 HELMETS RT
Sadleir’s
Waterhole Hotel
Warrego Hwy, Morven Qld
T: 07 4654 8058
FB: Morven Hotel –Sadleir’s Waterhole
Open every day from 10.00am
zero pub experience. Was a recipe for disaster but we hardly had an issue. Did it all on consensus and created little committees: fencing, kitchen, interior decorating…” His wife Louise at this point insists I check out the urinals.
The afternoon passes out on the deck talking about the saving of the pub and the good rains – that type of stuff. The language of the women seems to’ve cleaned up a bit since 1875. Every new arrival, local or blow-in, is greeted and acknowledged and when I ask Pat if he’s going to change much, he swallows a mouthful of steak sanger and smiles wryly and replies, “Why would I?”
That night I’m in Blackall and see some oil on the road under Super Ten so I walk over to the tyre place where Will tells me to bring it over. He reassures me that it’s overflow from the top, but my oil is down.
He only sells oil in 40 litre containers but there’s an old tomato sauce bottle in the tea room that’s empty so he cleans that and then fills it for me.
At Buledelah on the way home a nosey Grey Nomad is amazed at me topping my oil from a tomato sauce bottle but I assure him that sauce is great for engines and works fine in an emergency. He says he’ll keep that in mind.
Dunno how old mate went, but when I finally make it to my garage, I smile at the irony of some dead horse getting me there and some other “dead ‘orse” getting me home.
Top left: Morven Kerosene tin hut.
Above: Kerosene Hut internal.
Above left: Sadleirs Waterhole Hotel crane.
Left: Morven corrugated sheep.
Below left: Sadleirs Waterhole warning sign.
Below: Sadleirs Waterholes Morven.
A sweet ride of 150 kms.
Head
west from the Morven Pub and take the first right which is before you get to the Kerosene shed. Cross the railway line (it’s a live track), past the cemetery on the left and keep going north-north west on what’s Killarney Rd. For the next 50kms it’s mainly grey dirt with a bit of red. Ain’t much fun when it’s wet. After 50kms you’ll see Angellala Station on your left which is where Dave and Louise Winten are based.
Then keep going for another 50kms and you’ll get to a sweeping left onto Mt Tabor Road. Head west and after around 45kms on the you’ll see the new Burenda Woolshed which was built to replace the one burnt down in the 1891 Shearers’ Strike. Beautiful structure.
From here it’s a bit under 20kms to Augathella where the BP is staffed by very friendlies and the Ellangowan Pub’s just down the road. Accommodation upstairs or camping across the road. I prefer camping down at the racecourse. Much quieter.
Top: Grey Dirt twin track. Above: Grey Dirt. Left: Morven to Augathella map.
Below: Burenda Shed.
Thisroad has been complained about since at least 1875 when the local bullockies petitioned the Council to fix the bloody thing up. It’s way better now but still a decent adventure.
Load up with drinking water and fuel for 300kms.
Turn north off the highway just west of the roadside reserve at the Tambo lake at the eastern edge of town and continue across the Barcoo River. The first right turn, signposted for the Racecourse, will lead you to the Stubby Bend Free Camp area. If you’re camping this is a top spot and it’s an easy walk back to savour the Chicken Racing at the Royal Carrangarra Hotel. (Give my regards to Ben!).
Top: Springsure Virgin Rock at night. Below: Tambo Chook Races.
Above: Tambo to Springsure Map Right: 1871 Tambo Springsure Road.
Keep heading north on what is the Dawson Dev Rd for around 42kms where it takes a right with straight-ahead leading to Alpha. Just on 90kms east you’ll find the Thomas Mitchell cairn where Cungellala Road sweeps in on your right. Another 60kms will get you to the old Tresswell State School which is closed but still has rainwater tanks fed from the roof. If you’re tuckered out, this is a decent place to camp the night.
About 280 kms from Tambo and 12kms west of Springsure you’ll see a brown sign pointing north to the Wills Graves. Even if you don’t visit this site on the way in, it’s worth returning the next day. The site
is about 20kms in from the Dawson Dev Road and is the site of the biggest massacre of whites in the frontier wars. It was the party of Horatio Wills, father of Tom who was one of only two survivors.
Tom Wills returned to Melbourne where, two years before leaving, he co-wrote the laws for a winter game which became Aussie Rules. If you follow the game, this is a pilgrimage you should make.
If you’re camping at Springsure – a town beautifully described in 1878 as resembling every dog “in that it’s had its day” - the Virgin Rock free camp is the go, but if you’re hankering for a bed, Dooley’s at the end of town has the best accommodation and best staff.
Left: 1875 Tambo - Springsure Road. Right: Barcoo River Scrubby Gums Camp.
Adventure photos
Kosta Karis
Chris Crowther
Dale Tolcidas
Mark Youdale
Scott Lawson
Darren Goulder
Brad Murray
Henry Willersdorf
Kosta Karis
Jess De Gouw
Dan Dust
