We have circumnavigated and crisscrossed NZSi, to ensure you not only experience the best combination of on and off-road adventure riding, but we’ve also programmed time to view and enjoy the best this glorious country offers. We’ve taken care of everything for you; all you need to do is fly in and out.
The event is limited to the first 50 tickets sold, the maximum number of adventure motorcycles we can secure. If you’re ready to take your adventure riding to the next level, with fresh trails and tonnes of visual landscape candy, this event is for you.
The event is limited to the first 50 tickets sold, the maximum number of adventure motorcycles we can secure. If you’re ready to take your adventure riding to the next level, with fresh trails and tonnes of visual landscape candy, this event is for you.
ROUTE TYPE
The most exciting, scenic, twisty, 5 STAR, sealed and gravel public roads
RIDER SKILL LEVEL NEEDED
Intermediate skilled suitable
AVERAGE DAILY DISTANCE
350 kms
PRICING
Request info kit for all pricing and accommodation options
INCLUSIONS
Seven days Eight nights
Quality accommodation
Welcome and farewell dinners
Motorcycle hire
Mechanical support
Luggage support
Verified routes
Full details within info kit
Issue #61 Contents
16 On the Chain Gang: Aaron Clifton.
20 Sandraiders: David Marvier.
22 Between Two Mountains: Boris Mihailovic.
32 Walcha Rally: Col Whelan.
40 Mechanics Mim Style: Mim Chook.
44 Woomargama: John McLennan.
52 Never Never Ride: Tadhg “Tiger” MacCarthy.
62 Complete Guide to Transporting an Adventure Bike: Ed Burton.
64 My Motorcycling Journey: Matt Best.
70 Our Community Cape York Motorcycle Interview: Shaun Terblanche.
72 Wolverine in the Helmet: Tudor Codreanu.
82 Adventures of Apache in Caucasia: Sunny “Motographer”.
98 Andy Strapz Column.
Cover Image: Photo: With permission Sylvain Cattier.
ISSUE #61
Adventure Rider Magazine is published bimonthly by Clemenger Media.
CEO Tony Clemenger
Contributors
Boris Mihailovic, Mim Chook, John McLennan, Matt Best, Sunny, Aaron Clifton, Tudor Codreanu, Shaun Terblanche, Sunny “Motorgrapher”, Andy Strapz, Col Whelan, Ed Burton.. AND others
(If you would like a chance to have your adventure in print = please email susan.plunkett@clemengermediasales.com.au)
Photographers:
Mim Chooks, Midori Conure, David Marvier, Tadhg “Tiger” MacCarthy, Lydia “Flo” Cobham, Sunny “Motographer”, Col Whelan.
Design
Danny Bourke Southern-bear@bigpond.com.au
Subscriptions
Phone: 1800 995 007
Website: www.advridermag.com.au
Copyright Adventure Rider Magazine is owned by Clemenger Consulting –Clemenger Media Sales and published by Tony Clemenger. All material in Adventure Rider Magazine is copyright and no part may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical including information and retrieval systems) without written permission of the publisher. We welcome ALL contributions but reserve the right to accept or reject any material. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information, Clemenger will not accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for any consequences arising from reliance on information published. The opinions expressed in Adventure Rider Magazine are not necessarily the opinions of, or endorsed by, the publisher unless otherwise stated.
All articles submitted for publication become the property of the publisher. Editors reserve the right to adjust any article to conform with the magazine format.
To kick off 2024, this edition celebrates what most of us love; the roads, tracks and by-ways of regional Australia.
Sylvain’s Cattier’s gorgeous cover photo was one of the most popular photos we’ve ever posted on Facebook – 100’s of responses. The little story behind it makes me so proud of the thousands of riders out there who marvel at, and protect, our environment.
The general ride story is offered in Woomargama: John McLennan but here is the snippet that captured me. The riders came along the track and saw the KTM there and stopped. KTM had a decent growl and ‘stood’ its ground. But the riders were aware some people were racing around the area in 4WD’s so chose to stay and protect the Koala until it decided to move away and climb a tree.
In such cases Adventure riders can be the guardians of our trails and tracks. They are also some of the luckiest Aussies to spend the time they do exploring the varied beauty of this land.
Please consider adding your most recent adventure story ride to our publication. Make initial content to me at susan.plunkett@ clemengermediasales. com.au
“ KTM had a decent growl and ‘stood’ its ground. ”
Anyone taking longer rides in 2024 or heading overseas (Regan Rides and Rocky Creek Deigns are two of those), we’d love to hear from you. Sunny ‘Motographer’ will be undertaking an extensive Aussie ride we will preview in edition 62.
Ride safely. Susan
Below: Blake Husselmann recently went up from a SX65 to a WR250F and wanted to clear the last of the table tops on his new bike. It’s almost 50ft in length and eventually did it. Dad Riaan took the photo with the parts of the Blue Mountains in the background.
Our VIews wOrds frOm readers and fOllOwers
Like to add your own responses? Send to yourview@clemengermediasales.com.au: Who got into adventure riding because a parent rode (and still may be riding!)?
OnFacebook we have discussed venues that welcome riders and that offer locked sheds and special services for riders and their bikes. While our focus is on Australia, we welcome suggestions from other countries.
Bushrangers Inn, Uralla. They even have buckets and cloths outside the room to clean your bike seat and windshield!
Rocky Creek Designs
The Crown Hotel at Urbanville!! Amazing food, beautiful rooms, and they have undercover parking out the back. Very nice and super friendly people.
Jess De Gouw
I can recommend the Alpine hotel on Cooma and the Australian in Young Both have lock ups for bikes.
John Beattie
Can recommend Glen Innes motel. Friendly staff. Reasonably priced. Under cover off street parking for the bikes. Clean and comfortable with a decent brekky thrown in for free.
Luke Mango
We would love to develop a spreadsheet of suggestions so please send in your favourite venues to: yourview@clemengermediasales.com.au
Bendemeer pub. Great tucker, great service, good rooms, old stables to lock bikes up.
Ian Mallet
Chill Chill, Grill & Ride Inn
Maryborough Qld.
Jock Adams
The Pub in the Paddock in Tasmania www.pubinthepaddocktas.com.au
Midori Conure
The Pub in the Paddock | A Tassie Icon
The Pub in the Paddock is the best place I ever stayed at also.... www.pubinthepaddocktas.com.au
Glen Cochrane
Handlebar Haven
Jock Adams
Kickstart Saloon
Jock Adams
Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge in North Carolina
Awesome owner and THE best facilities I’ve ever seen
There is one set of Barkbusters (not carbon version) on offer to one lucky subscriber. In under 50 words – and you can include a photo – please explain why you would welcome a set of Barkbusters.
STAY HYDRATED
Endura sports hydration
MATTHIAS WALKNER OUT OF 2024 DAKAR
Factory KTM rider, Matthias Walkner, has been sidelined for the 2024 Dakar Rally, following surgery to an injury on his left leg, which he sustained while training in America. The Austrian rider is said to be recovering well, however, the damage is enough to rule him out of competition for the 2024 Dakar rally.
Matthias was out training with the team in early December, and fell from his KTM 450 breaking his tibia, fibula and ankle joint. The 2018 Dakar champion was flown to Palm Springs where he had surgery. Matthias will require further surgery which he hopes will be able to be carried out back home in Austria.
The summer months are upon us, so out comes the summer gear as we set out to survive the heat. But as much as you can prepare with summer gear and attempt to keep as cool as possible, hydration is a key factor when faced with the possibility of severe fatigue and even heat stroke.
Endura sports hydration is scientifically formulated to keep you hydrated during physical exercise, with electrolytes like sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. It contains 20-grams of carbohydrate per dose, recommended for intense exercise and contains a patented form of magnesium (Meta Mag) to ensure a high rate of absorption. It comes in a range of flavours, lemon lime, raspberry, orange, and pineapple, and is also free from gluten, dairy, eggs and nuts. Well worth a try if you’re doing hot rides. www.endura.com.au
TRIUMPH’S MX ASSAULT
Triumph, the largest UK-owned motorcycle manufacturer, has recently revealed the latest addition to its already impressive lineup.
The TF 250 is Triumph’s all-new, and very impressive motocross bike. It’s been fully developed by Triumph in collaboration with AMA motocross and supercross champion, Ricky Carmichael.
The TF250 is race-ready, according to Triumph. Built with the best components on the market, including forged aluminium pistons,
WURTH PTFE DRY LUBE
titanium valves, magnesium engine covers, and an Exedy Belleville hydraulic clutch.
Triumph left no stone unturned with this bike, offering Brembo brakes, and KYB suspension with 48mm forks as standard.
The engine mapping and tunability are all in your hands with the MX Tune Pro App, featuring selectable mapping, engine sensor dashboard with diagnostic functionality, and a programable
engine-management system.
The TF250 weighs104 kgs and boasts the best power-to-weight ratio in the 250cc class.
Triumph also offers race accessories, which include an Akrapovic exhaust, an XTrig hole-shot device, an Athena LC-GPA launch-control module, an MX tune Pro Wi-Fi module, a Grippa seat, and a body-works kit.
There’s no doubt Triumph means business with the new TF250.
The name sounds oxymoronic, doesn’t it? How can it be dry and how can it lubricate at the same time?
Witchcraft? Sorcery? It’s like talking about a one-ended stick. But regardless of the fact the lizard brain struggles to understand the concept, the PTFE Dry Lube from Wurth actually works. And as a matter of fact, it’s a fantastic product for all types of motorcycles. It’s great for off-road use because it’s not sticky and does not attract dirt and create that horrible dirt paste that sticks to your chain. In road-bike applications, again its not-stickiness it does not create the horrible black gluggy mess all over your back wheel and under the rear of your bike. And it’s also 100 per cent safe and recommended for drive-belts, so those with drive-belts can safely lubricate them. Wurth Dry Lube goes on wet and in around 60 seconds is dry to the touch. It does leave you wondering how in the hell it is even affective as a lubricant. But it is. You’ll notice once its dry your chain even sounds quieter, and drive belts will last notably longer. Try it for yourself. www.eshop.wurth.com.au
CLEAN AIR
Motul air filter wash-kit
Getting dirty is never desirable, except for that one time when you met her and…well, that was a long time ago...
And it is also said that dirty dishes are the sign of a well-enjoyed meal, but the clean-up is horrible. Just like dirty dishes, a dirty filter may be the sign of a good ride, but there is not a soul on the planet who likes cleaning air filters. That’s where the champions at Motul come in. Motul, a French company which has been making industry-leading oils and lubricants for 160 years, has put together a foam air-filter cleaning kit that makes cleaning your filters very easy.
The kit comes in a bucket with airfilter oil, filter cleaner, grease, a container to oil your filter once it’s clean, some rubber gloves, and a separation screen. All you need to do is remove all the components from the bucket, then simply place the
separation screen in the bottom, empty the filter cleaner into your prepared bucket, place your dirty filter into the cleaner, and wash it. The separation screen allows the dirt and sediment to settle at the bottom allowing you to re-use the cleaner repeatedly. After you’ve washed your filter in the cleaner,
rinse with water, remove the screen from the bucket, as this doubles as a drying rack, then once dry, oil the filter in the provided container, grease the sealing surface of the filter, and fit to your bike – simple and easy. Check this product out at www.mxstore.com.au
KEEP COOL
Evans waterless coolant
Summer is here, in Australia we experience heat, almost like a taste of our pending eternal damnation. Your engine also gets a little taste of Hell’s fiery wrath during the summer months. Have you considered Evans Waterless Coolant? When thinking about coolants, the key concept is heat transfer. Evans Waterless Coolant boasts a much lower freezing point and a much higher boiling point than regular water-based coolants.
Will this mean your engine will run cooler? No. This liquid brew does however “transfer heat” from engine components much more efficiently than regular coolants.
When temperatures get high, water-based coolants create a vapour in the cooling system right before it reaches boiling point. This vapour causes the coolant to lose contact with engine components, reducing its ability to transfer heat and accelerating the overheating process.
Evans Waterless Coolant, as the name implies, is not water-based and will not create vapour. This allows the liquid to keep 100 per cent contact with engine components and heat transfer remains very efficient, even at high temperatures. Worth a look if you ride during the warmer months. www.turbotechqld.com.au
SUPERSPROX STEALTH SPROCKET
Riding your bike is always better than working on your bike, right? And how often do you give your bike a quick check, glance at the chain and sprockets and think: that will need replacing soon…
Then the procrastination always begins.
The Supersprox Stealth understands this. It is the original bi-metal sprocket and is designed to outlast religion. It has steel teeth on the outside and a lightweight aluminium core.
The pocket and paw method gives superior strength not just against the driving force from the engine, but also from side impacts as well, which is a huge advantage when you’re off-road riding.
The teeth themselves are made with a zinc-nickel alloy, which is harder and less corrosive than materials used by competitors. And on top of this, it also has what’s called “black passivation” to make it even more resistant to wear, and is also pleasing to the eye.
And once it’s on your, bike procrastinate all you like. This thing will outlast your procrastination. www.supersprox.com/
Adventure rider MAgAzine, AustrAliAn Motorcyclist MAgAzine – with the generous sponsorship cooperAtion of world on wheels – Are offering 6 eXplore ride eXperiences in the first hAlf of 2024.
You must be a subscriber to apply for the rides. Participants will be chosen based on a draw if numbers are high.
The currenT rides:
Victoria:
VIC Ride 1: Day ride tour of Mornington Peninsula with Andy Strapz. www.andystrapz.com Your lunch is included (exclusive of alcohol). Date to be announced.
VIC Ride 2: Day ride tour of with Heather Ellis (Sunday 24th March). We will ride Don Road over to Don Valley. A short stretch of dirt on this section. Then through Warburton and up to Donna Buang and the tower then down where we take the turn off along Acheron Way then through Marysville where we can stop for coffee before tackling the Reefton Spur then to Reefton Pub. From there every one makes their own way home. Your lunch is included (exclusive of alcohol). Sunday 24th March 2024. A copy of Heather’s first book Ubuntu: One Woman’s Motorcycle Odyssey Across Africa will go to one lucky rider via a ‘helmet’ draw at lunch. Maximum of six bikes.
nsW:
NSW Ride 1: Weekend ride to Wiseman’s Ferry with Mike Ferris (24th and 25th February), 30-year experienced international tour director of World on Wheels. Starting out from the Northern Beaches with several join-up points along the way, Mike will lead riders via Mt White, Peats Ridge, Bucketty, Perrys Crossing and St Albans to reach Wisemans Ferry on the Saturday afternoon, 24th Feb. Accommodation at the Wisemans Inn, ask Mike about accommodation prices. Rocking to Mike’s handpicked live band, with dinner and (some!) drinks on WOW. Sunday morning will see various options for the return run home. Numbers are limited!
NSW Ride 2: Weekend ride to Southern Highlands with Tug McClutchin (Sunday March 3rd). as he tests a bike for one of the magazines. Tug will take you on a guided tour of some of his favourite roads in the NSW Southern Highlands for a day. Lunch at one of his favourite pubs will be included. (Alcohol excluded). Ride will start at Pheasants Nest, an hour Southwest of Sydney. It will be a fun day, where you will get some inside info on what goes into testing a bike, and get to pick Tug’s brains, ‘for what that’s worth’. Maximum of five bikes (pillions welcome).
NSW Ride 3: Weekend ride to Spring cart Farm with Bob Wozga (3rd, 4th and 5th of May). Camping fee and a BBQ dinner included (exclusive of alcohol). Road bikes aren’t suitable for this ride. Numbers are limited.
NSW Ride 4: An EXPLORE bike review ride experience with Boris Mihailovic. Ride your bike along with Boris as he repeats the same section of road 10 times while the photographer snaps. Learn what it takes to write a bike review. Lunch included (alcohol excluded). SINGLE RIDER ONLY Date to be announced.
NSW Ride 5: An EXPLORE photography experience with Nick Edards as he snaps Boris’ bike review (see above). Perfect for someone with interest in photography who would like to know more about taking publishable, professional motorcycle images. Date to be announced. SINGLE RIDER ONLY. Lunch included (alcohol excluded). Date to be announced.
Please send
On the Chain Gang
Tips on Chain Health and Maintenance
TText: Aaron Clifton Images: Aaron Clifton and Facebook Followers here really aren’t many discussions or constructive conversations had about chains; odd considering that they are such a fundamental component of a motorcycle.
That’s not to say you’re not mindful of the chain from time to time. After every wash you grab the old can of Dub-Ya-dee
Fordy (WD-40), or whatever variation of possum piss you use to drive out the water and prevent rust. And maybe before you ride you hit it with some lube and check the tension on the odd occasion- we all do, or at least we all should.
So, what is good or bad when it comes to chains? There are many variations of
chains, so, which is best for your application needs? What is good chain maintenance? How tight is too tight? How loose is too loose? What is a good chain lube?
It all seems rather basic and maybe you’ve got things down pat and you’re all good. If so, that’s great, but I’ll be the first
to admit that there’s always something I don’t know and can learn.
When it comes to chains there’s a few different types, the standard roller chain, O-ring chain, X-ring chain, and an endless chain. BMW have a so called “maintenance free chain” however maintenance free is not exactly maintenance free.
Ohh, and by the way, do you want a steel sprocket, an alloy sprocket, or a bi-metal sprocket? And what gearing do you want?
So, after all, there are a few elements to consider.
When the need arises to replace your chain and sprockets, the question is, “What bike do you ride and what type of riding are you doing?”
The same goes for lubes, sprockets and chain tension; it all centres around the application. For instance, a motocross or supercross rider will quite often run a standard roller chain and a lightweight alloy sprocket purely for saving weight. Even on a 450 that produces enough power to remove your arms from their sockets for you on the whack of the throttle, the rear wheel doesn’t spin at speeds like that of a MotoGP bike.
With the bike and rider combined, the total weight carried on motocross bike might nudge somewhere between 180-200kgs, but that load and torque stress on the chain is not the same as you will get on a much heavier multi cylinder road bike, so weight can afford to be saved and lighter chains and sprockets are used.
Take now a 1000cc sports bike, 200 plus horsepower, huge amount of torque, and huge torque stress on the chain and sprockets.
Bike and rider combined can potentially weigh over 300kgs, and that torque load is carried through the drive line for a long duration, particularly when accelerating out of long corners with a sticky tyre, and reaching speeds of 300kph.
No doubt this will require something more robust and durable than the lightweight requirements of the motocross bike.
Those are two examples at each end of the spectrum.
Considering I don’t know what you ride or where you ride, I’m going to have to give some generalisations, but hopefully I can at least briefly cover the bases for you. All chains when brand new will stretch for a little while and you’ll have to do some re-tensioning in the beginning. It should settle down but as it wears toward the end of its life, you will notice that it will need adjusting more frequently.
Below: Excessive movement.
and get the most out of a chain is to look at the sprocket wear, I clean my chains every time I wash my bikes and I have a quick glance at the sprocket. We all know what a severely worn sprocket looks like with the teeth sharp and laying over or “hooking”, if your eye is keen enough to be able to spot a wearing sprocket before it gets to the point of hooking, most of the time you can get away with only replacing the sprocket- however it is considered good practice to replace both together.
When I’m cleaning the chain, I do three things, here’s where a keen eye and attention to detail comes in.
v Give the wheel a quick spin and check for tight spots, you’ll notice the links don’t fall loose as they spin off the sprocket teeth (and sometimes make a clunking noise as you spin the wheel).
v Grab the chain on the rear sprocket, move it along the length of the sprocket and see if there’s any excessive movement of the chain between the teeth. u
On the ChaIn GanG
v Grab the chain with two hands either above or below the swing arm and see how much sideways movement there is.
So, let’s assume you’ve found that the chain isn’t right. You pull it off the bike and you can confirm that the chain is worn out with two simple checks:
v There is vertical movement in the links, meaning you can almost stretch the chain length ways.
v You can bend the chain into a boomerang shape laterally or in a sideways direction.
Then comes the question, what is the best replacement chain and sprocket? The correct answer to that question all depends on what you ride and where you ride, but if you take the illustration I gave earlier between the motocross bike and the 1000cc road bike, maybe that can form a point of reference for you.
When it comes to road bikes, its straightforward in my mind, an O-ring or X-ring chain with steel sprockets, cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted properly and you should get good life out of your chain: a kind of “look after it and it will look after you”.
When it comes to adjusting a chain and more specifically in this case a road bike chain, always check manufacturer specifications - some manufactures used to put decals on the swing arm with this
information on it. I like to go on the looser side of those specs, a chain on the looser side is always better, less load causing premature wear and in extreme cases where you see chains as tight as piano wire, this can even interfere with suspension operation as the rear shock travels through its stroke.
If that chain is pulled tight on the centre stand, sure as hell when you drop it down
Left: Chase Cuthbert (age 12) working on his motorcycle chain. He had noticed it was loose and did everything - including lifting the bike into the stand - by himself.
Below: Fresh chains also look cool.
Right: Always check guides, guards and rubbing blocks.
and start riding, it will be pulled like a corset string and put unnecessary load on everything including the rear suspension so, don’t do this.
When it comes to off road chains, depending on exactly what and where your riding, I tend to mix it up a bit. If I’m running an adventure bike here’s what I would do.
If most of my riding is on the tar, a good O-ring or X-ring chain and a steel sprocket is the go, but if I’m getting more serious off the tar, I would run the same chain but with a BI-metal sprocket, where the centre of the sprocket is aluminium but the teeth are hardened steel. They seem to weather the harsher environments like sand, water, bull dust etc., a lot better. If you can imagine grains of sand make for a very abrasive surface for your chain running around your sprocket and the hardened steel teeth will give you longer life in this environment provided you keep it clean, lubricated and adjusted.
On one of my motocross bikes I actually ran an O-ring chain with a Bi metal sprocket. O-ring chains in motocross racing are frowned upon, not for any
proper reason just because they’re heavier and can in theory sap horse power. I defy anyone to feel this on track…but the life I got out of that chain and sprocket combo surprised even me. It hardly needed any adjustment and no wear on the sprocket. I actually found myself replacing engine parts like piston and rings at 100hrs, and still my chain and sprocket had no visible wear. So much like other things in life, it’s all about cleanliness and lube, and it truly is when it comes to chains.
First thing I clean on my bike is always the chain, for the standard roller chains I’ve got on my current dirt bikes I use some brake and parts cleaner, then after I’ve washed it, a nice coat of Dub-Ya-Dee Fordy. Then when it’s all clean and dry I like to use a lube made by Wurth called HHS2000. I don’t know what herbs and spices are in this stuff but its magic. It’s sticky enough to make a great lubricant but it’s the only stuff I’ve used for off road chains that doesn’t attract dirt. Almost every other lube I’ve used has caused the dirt to stick to my chain and this creates a grinding paste that ruins chains and sprockets better than an American president ruining the international reputation of the USA.
When it comes to an O-ring or X-ring chain, some manufacturers recommend cleaning with kerosene, however, I’d rather use the old Dub-Ya Dee. It cleans very well and I know it’s going to be safe on those rubber O-rings in the chain. I certainly wouldn’t be using anything like degreaser.
Once clean and dry, on a road bike chain another Wurth product is PTFE Dry Lube. As the name suggests, it won’t leave that horrible oily mess all over your bike.
This dry lube stuff, obviously brewed by witches, warlocks and sorcerers, goes on wet so you can see that you applied it and dries in a matter of 60 seconds, leaving your chain lubricated and noticeably quieter, the beaty of this stuff is that it can even be sprayed on rubber drive belts, and so its guaranteed not to hurt O-ring or X-ring chains.
Chains are something so fundamental, yet easily overlooked and taken for granted. And don’t forget to check the chain guides either, wear on them is obvious; you’ll see deep grooves in the rubber.
You can check out any of the Wurth products here eshop.wurth.com.au/en/GB/AUD/
And it’s also worth looking at the Bi-metal sprockets I mentioned, I used Supersprox brand check them out here www.supersprox.com/
sandraIders - PhOtOGraPhY
Images:David Marvier
BETWEEN TWO
MOUNTAINS
The riding between Mt Hotham and Mt Buffalo in Victoria is stunning, made all the more so by the 2023 BMW K1600 GTL, which is hands-down, the finest touring bike on this earth.
WORDS AND
IMAGES BY BORIS MIHAILOVIC
No-one cares to read how utterly vile it is riding down the Hume Highway, no matter what you’re on. The horror is largely mitigated by a bike such as the GTL, but it’s still like watching paint dry, albeit in supreme comfort. The only possible way the Hume could be interesting is to ride it at 200km/h. But that’s not gonna happen anytime soon because we are not a civilised country like Germany.
Which is where the GTL is made and where you will find it searing along autobahns at 200-plus on any day of the week, or carving alpine passes with aplomb.
So, let’s never mind about the Hume. Let’s assume my journey began in Holbrook, NSW.
Yes, Holbrook is the town with the submarines. And yes, it is weird to have two submarines (one real, the HMAS Ottway, and one a one-fifth scale model, the HMS B11) in
u
a town in the middle of NSW.
It was not always called Holbrook. Explorers Hume and Hovell could not decide between calling it Friday Mount and Camden Forest in 1825, so they used both. Ten years later, the town was known as both Therry’s (after the Reverend John Therry) and Billabong (after a billabong that is manifestly no longer there). Two years later it was known as Ten Mile Creek. And in 1858 it was christened Germanton, perhaps because there was a preponderance of Germans in it at that time. No-one knows. But two years later, the locals re-named it Kings after the local
pub, King’s Public House, despite it still being officially called Germanton. That all changed in 1915 when all things German were the enemy and the town was named after the submarine commander Norman Douglas Holbrook.
I picked it to spend the night because it boasted a glorious steak menu at the Holbrook Hotel, and it would give me an easy jumping-off point for my next day’s mountaineering ride.
I hate staying at pubs, and always have. I far prefer motels or a swag in a field. I know people wank on about sleeping in beaut Aussie pubs, but sharing a bathroom with truckies, long-term locals with nowhere else to live, and fellow drunks, while listening to shit bands booming through the floorboards, is not my idea of a restful night. You might enjoy walking along a musty-smelling hallway in the middle of the night to empty your bladder, and that’s fine. I like my bathroom to be near to my big double bed, which is bathed by air-con, or just using the nearest tree if I’m swagging it.
I stayed at the Town Centre Motor Inn. I’ve stayed in worse. I’ve stayed in better. It was clean, but the air-con rattled like a bastard, and the water-pressure was iffy.
The courtyard was also covered in white gravel which might affright the more tentative rider.
The pub, Holbrook Hotel, was pretty good though. It had been modernised and gentrified. And it had a dry-aging fridge full of lovely-looking meat. Which was subsequently priced to appal you with its pretentiousness, and disappoint you with its flavour.
When I am asked to pay $70 for a 400gm dry-aged T-bone, that T-bone better taste like the price being asked indicates it will. It didn’t. Putting two medium-sized prawns on it and a small
Churches always look haunted at night.
harrIetVIlle
tub of Gravox-based pepper sauce by its side did not help. I did add some “corn ribs” to the meal, mainly through curiosity at what this actually was and why it cost $12. I should have known better. I got half a cob of corn, quartered length-ways, and deep fried, sitting atop that vile aioli splodge every cook who thinks he’s a chef inflicts upon each of his “signature” dishes. So, the steak, corn, two glasses of crappy local house red, and a nice helping of pretence, set me back $102. More fool me. I have no issue paying for great food. I do it gladly. But I do not enjoy being fleeced by whatever tourist-trap mentality seems to have gripped so many of these newly-refurbished hostelries that have sprung up all over the place.
I walked dinner off, took a picture of the church, which looked great in the evening light and pleased me because it was clearly not all that well-maintained, which indicated the locals were less enamoured of Jesus than they maybe once were.
The next morning, I set off, slabbed another bit of the Hume, and just as the will to live was about to desert me, I turned left before Albury at Thurgoona and headed for the high country.
Now once you hit Lake Hume, you can turn left and enjoy the swervery that awaits you at Granya Gap, then loop back
to Huon via Bullioh and Tallangatta, or you can turn right and go to Huon via Bonegilla and Ebden.
I try and pay my respects at Bonegilla each time I’m in that part of the world because both my parents spent some time there when they came to Australia in the early 50s. The camp is now called the Bonegilla Migrant Experience, and you need to pay to get in and walk around this hugely sad and depressing place, which reminds me in no small way of Dachau Concentration Camp in Munich.
Sure, Bonegilla doesn’t have the guard towers and crematoria, but it has almost
the same shitty barracks to house the inmates/migrants, and it is a good deal dustier and far less green than Dachau. Going there and imagining my mother and father, and thousands like them, traumatised beyond belief by the horrors of WWII, living inside those barracks, makes me ineffably sad. Australia in the 50s and 60s was not a welcoming place for European migrants, then officially called DPs or Displaced Persons. They were also called wogs, dagos, and spics,
Above: Only a bear would make it more hipster. Below: Mount Buffalo has no buffaloes.
spoke little or no English, and were expected to be insanely grateful to be here (and my parents certainly were), and get about the business of making a new life for themselves as quickly as possible. To their immense credit, they did just that. And it all began for so many of them at Bonegilla.
But, like much of Australia’s cultural heritage, bugger-all effort has been put into making the Bonegilla Migrant Experience actually worth a visit or even an experience worthy of the name. Nailing some corrugated iron to a few boards is not memorial “sculpture”, and planting a few very staged black-and-white images of “happy” and industrious migrants along the fence-line as you come into the place is simple failure. It looks shabby and second-rate – and not all worthy of the thousands of people who lived there for a time.
But I go there because it connects me to my past, and it’s usually empty so no-one notices my tears.
I continued onto Huon, and chose to ride the Gundowring Road on my way to the legendary Tawonga Gap, rather than the Kiewa Valley Highway, which
runs largely parallel to it. My reasons were simple. I like to ride fast and the chance of cops being on the Gundowring Road are much smaller than the more heavily-trafficked Kiewa Valley route. So I can ride much faster. I just have to watch out for cow shit (especially if it’s damp) because that’s like smelly olive-green ice if you hit it at a bad angle. But the vistas are gorgeous; very green and beautiful no matter which road you choose, and strewn with dairy farms either side of the road.
You’re in the Kiewa Valley, surrounded on both sides by steep hills (they’re not really mountains, but we like to call them that) and it’s so worth a look if you’re riding bikes.
I’d stop to take the odd image, and flies would descend on me like the plague. Dairy farms attract flies. You understand why. The sky was also very grey and threatening, and rain was promised, but thus far all I had encountered was the odd damp patch. The road surface was generally pretty good, and the GTL made quite a rapid meal of the road.
“Damn this thing can bang,” I’d mutter to myself, as we hurtled along. Which is what I mutter to myself each time I re-visit the GTL. It really is the ultimate in motorcycle touring in so many ways.
I crossed the Kiewa River I’d been riding alongside at Mongans Bridge, rejoined
Above: Yes, because rust is part of the ‘experience’. Below: There’s a whole town under that water.
the Kiewa Vallet Highway and minded my manners for a few kays until I got to the Tawonga Gap turn-off.
If I had continued on, I would have come into Mt Beauty and then u
continued onto Falls Creek. But my destination was Bright and then Harrietville, and then onto Mt Hotham, so I turned right.
Coming this way, Tawonga Gap starts tight with lots of hairpins, crests the ridge, then opens up on the run into Bright. If you stop at the lookout, you can behold the less-than-epic majesty of Mt Bogong on the other side of the valley. At 1986metres, it is the highest mountain in Victoria, and the place where every now and again, plague-amounts of bogong moths venture out and smear every well-meaning motorcyclist with their innards until he is blind and unable to ride on, and his bike is encrusted with their corpses and will never be properly clean again.
The surface is pretty good, though you do need to mind yourself on some of the hairpins which have been corrugated by large vehicles standing on their brakes, and there’s sometimes a bit of gravel around. But it’s almost all fine.
It’s only about 20kms from one end to the other, so you’re in Bright before you know it.
And Bright, which was once a jewel of a town both scenically and in ambience, has gone utterly to shit. It has disappeared so far up its own arse in terms of sheer pretentiousness, it would seem to attract only the very worst kind of people. Most of whom are righteously getting in the way of vehicular traffic by riding pushbikes everywhere. Some are doing it on the cycleways, praise be. Others are pelotoning along the road two and three abreast. The place is full of wank-rich galleries, underpants-smelling microbreweries, over-priced cafes and eateries where gluten is the work of the devil
and veganism is the Jesus.
But is has petrol. And I needed petrol. The GTL carries 26.5-litres, which is good for almost 500km, and I had forgotten where I last filled up. I was also planning
to ride to the top of Mt Hotham, and I knew there wasn’t any petrol up there or in Harrietville, which sits at the base of Mt Hotham and is some 20km away from Bright. A man should always have enough
Far left: The publican and the bartender.
Left: The sign says it’s waiting for a tow truck. It’d been there since October.
Bottom left: The lovely Harrietville Hotel.
Top right: The summit of Mt Hotham is just beyond that rise.
Bottom right: Great views no matter where you stop.
petrol to make his escape, which is what riding in Hungary taught me. And while I was in no danger of being murdered by Magyar vagabonds in these lush, green valleys (and this part of the world is so stupidly green it’s like Ireland), one never knew what the vagaries of the road might bring. Always fill up when you can.
The run from Bright to the start of the climb to the top of Mt Hotham is stunning. You run through Freeburgh and Smoko, and then Harrietville, which is a more substantial village, then almost immediately encounter a badly corrugated sharp left and commence the 30-odd kay run to the top.
You should mind yourself here. There is almost no Armco and the plunge into the valleys below is very far. The surface gets better the higher you go, and the road gets incrementally wider as well. But for the most part, its tight and there are always idiots you will encounter cutting corners. And you will encounter pushbike riders. Yes, in your way. Yes, that is their right. Just as it’s your right to get around them without spooking them and sending them to the bottom of the valley in a cartwheeling pedals-akimbo spectacle only they will briefly witness, because it would have happened behind you and you would not have seen it.
I got to the top without incident, and the views are pretty special up there. Once you get past the ghost forests of snow gums, you’re up past the tree-line and it’s nothing but impossibly beautiful vistas in 360-degrees to the horizon.
Like all Australian ski-resorts, Mt Hotham is stupidly expensive, a fair way up its own arse, and largely closed in summer –which mercifully spares you from having to encounter the Aussie Ski Twat in its natural habitat. Our ski-pits are certainly no Kitzbühel, Cortina d’Ampezzo, or Courcheval, but that doesn’t stop them from imagining themselves to be (and charging accordingly) on the same level. I took a bunch of pictures, then aimed myself down the mountain, taking
great care not to affright the dozens of pushbike riders that bedevilled the road.
Less than an hour later I was in the Harrietville Hotel, enjoying a delicious meal, which while steeply priced, was not outrageous.
Rossco, the publican, was hugely welcoming, and my room, out the back of the rather beautiful stone-walled pub, was splendidly appointed. The bed was raised upon a pedestal, which looked great, but can catch a man out in the middle of the night and send his knee spearing into his thigh if he’s not sprightly on his feet and has consumed too much black vodka the publican kept foisting upon him.
Rossco and his family bought the pub a few years ago and have spent a quarter of a million dollars refurbishing the accommodation, and it shows. Lovely place. The village itself has a killer bakery, a café, and even another pub at the other end of the town.
WHY THE 2023 BMW K1600GTL IS SO DAMN GOOD
Itdoesn’t have a seat. It has an act of kindness and comfort instead, which can be heated for both you and the pillion if circumstances demand.
The electronic screen is the size of a boogie-board, which means when it is full deployed, you’ll sit in a bubble of peace, quiet and calm. And actually, listen to music up until you’re doing more than 130. In which case you shouldn’t be listening to music. But I rode the whole trip – some 2000km – with the visor on my helmet up. Not a single bug hit me in the face. I could hear myself singing. It even rained some on me, but not quite enough to make me wet. The protection offered by the GTL is next-level.
No matter how comfortable the seat and riding position, you need to be able to move and stretch on a bike if you’re doing long stretches in the saddle. The GTL shines here as well. The stand-up ergos are spot-on. I’d stand and stretch my legs on the boring bits, and felt just like Kate Winslett standing on the prow of the Titanic, though far less doomed. When other bits needed stretching, you can perch your arse on the pillion-seat and arch forward for a few kays, giving your back a nice stretch and pretend you’re riding the world’s biggest café racer.
The engine-suspension package is sublime on every level. The GTL handles with a precision that belies its size. It’s 358kg wet, but it doesn’t feel like that when you’re carving twisties. Bad suspension and a lifeless engine add greatly to rider fatigue. That does not
happen on the GTL. It can be ridden as a weaponised monster, or you can just waft along and enjoy the sights.
The entire panoply of rider aids is available on the GTL. Everything from hill-assist to reverse, with the full array of rider modes. The luggage capacity is a magnificent 113-litres, and that 1650cc six-cylinder engine makes 180Nm of torque in such a glass-smooth fashion, the ride is indeed effortless. Hell, it’s downright omnipotent.
Left: Great roads in every direction. Right: That’d be Mt Bogong over there.
There’s even a food van which sells amazing sausage rolls and decent coffee early in the morning, but you have to walk over a short bridge straddling a legitimate babbling brook to get there. Everything is lush and emerald-coloured, and the air is stupefyingly clean.
There are lots of roads to ride if you plan on staying there a few days. If you continue over Mount Hotham, you can make your way to Omeo (great ride), or Bairnsdale (just as good), or you can do the incredible Mitta Mitta Road. Pretty much anywhere you point your headlight, the riding is spectacular, which goes with the scenery. Head the other way, and you can belt through Bright, then into Porepunkah, and have a look at Mt Buffalo. There are no buffalo, but it’s a pretty awesome ride to the top of that prominence.
It’s quite easy to kill a whole week riding in that part of Victoria, and not regret the time at all. The scenery, when not breathtaking, is certainly pleasing. The roads, by and large, are in pretty good shape. There is no shortage of corners – all sorts, from fast sweepers to technical hairpins.
Be aware that the weather can be markedly different from the bottom of any mountain to its summit. If it’s 25 in Harrietville and dry, it can be ten degrees and raining sideways 30km away at Mt Hotham.
This is a very pretty part of Australia. You should ride it as often as you can.
INTRODUCING ALL NEW GRIPS
Rally Walcha
Words and Images: Col Whelan
EDITORIAL COMMENT: As a brief introduction to Col’s Walcha article, I wanted to say how impressed I am with Walcha Tourism and their management of the Walcha Rally event. That group has been thorough, consistently marketing the event and reaching out and drawing in interest warmly and with grace. Walcha has good reason to be proud of this event and I for one got a lot of pleasure watching the parade and various events on Facebook and seeing everything from postie bikes to the big road beasts. I loved everything I saw and look forward to supporting again in 2024. Susan
Iof tickets for his Walcha Motorcycle rally went into voluntary liquidation – how I love that phrase. It was just three weeks out from the planned event.
Trouble was, Walcha’s a proud town, full of good people and they were looking forward to hosting all the riders so the community bogged in, volunteers streamed forward, a committed cobbled together and that year they hosted a band-aid event which, from all accounts, was a festival of goodwill and loud pipes.
The next year, the Council and its Tourism Arm stepped in and things got serious. So, this year’s was the third and the 1700 who came through the turnstiles was up 40% on last year’s.
I rocked up at noon on the Friday and things are in full swing. Marshalls at the gate point where to park and as I’m backing the blue bird into a spot, a gaggle of blokes goes
sprinting past. A mob of Harley riders had come in just after me and one of ‘em had dropped it on the grass and it was all hands-on deck to lift the thing up.
On the fifty metre walk back to the registration tent it’s like back in my small hometown with everyone coming the other way saying ‘hi’ or ‘g’day’. And I’ve gotta tell you, this persuasive friendliness didn’t dissipate the entire weekend.
The last of the three rallies I’d ever been to was back in probably 2009 with the Ducati crowd to Sheba Dams where they all arrived, sat around talking bevels, timing belts and pilgrimages to Bologna. That did it for me and rallies.
It’s soon evident the Walcha Motorcycle Rally is a different fish. More for people u
Tina and Dan Chat
In the sea of black vests and beards, the hardcore adventure riders stand out, and I figure I should be able to track down what I call, if you’ll pardon my French, a few of the hard coeur for a chat. But Andy, who’s the chief wrangler for the adventure side of things at the rally, tells me to hang in the marquee and he’ll round up some suspects and I’m not waiting long before he’s herding a couple of serious lookers my way.
He is Dan, a retired Swiss engineer and she’s Tina retired construction supervisor from Estonia. They met on the Gold Coast not long after she arrived a few years after he did in 2009. We relax onto the grass, seeing as there’re no seats, and I ask them how they ended up here.
Dan: “A year and a half ago we were touring around on our GS’s and we came to Walcha and we were looking at the information board and this fellow came over to us and it was Andy (the same Andy) and he asked about our travels. He said he also rides Adventure and his wife was working in the Tourism Information Office and he told us to go there to get information on all the back roads which we did. And he also said you need to come to the rally and so we came and it was fantastic.”
He was riding a Harley, she was riding a Malvern Star. She rode pillion for a trip to northern NSW, then in 2019 for the second time, Dan rode the Harley around Australia this time with Tina on the back.
By 2021 Tina had her own Street Glide and they took off for another lap but the Covid Cops stopped them in Mt Isa so they headed up to the Cape.
Tina: “I wanted to ride right to the end but you can’t really take a Harley up there. The tool didn’t fit the job and so we started to think Adventure bikes and we had some friends who were riding adventure and we talked to them. We’d seen pretty much all the good roads and now we wanted to see the
not so good roads and of course the places they would lead us to.”
Dan: “We checked out all the options, the KTM 690s, the BMW’s and then I U-tubed it and got onto the GS Safari Rally and wondered why so few people are riding 850’s and everyone is riding 1250’s. So Tina bought the GS Triple Black and I got the GSA Triple Black.”
Tina: “I was so scared, it was a monster bike, I couldn’t reach the ground almost and so we did some training with BMW and we went to the tip, then west to Karumba and we were on the lookout for gravel roads and then down to Alice Springs and McDonnell Ranges. Uluru and then to Adelaide for a service, back to the Flinders and then across the Birdsville track and then, 15,000ks later we were back on the Gold Coast.”
The big machines were great but they struggled in the sand. Again, they had a new job but not the right tools. So, they sold the Harleys and got a pair of KTM 890’s.
The first outing for the KTM’s was to Lake Dunn, Tibooburra, Cameron Corner, Arkaroola, Flinders Ranges and back home via Broken Hill. It’s these bikes that they’ve brought to Walcha.
They ride about 300-350 kms a day, prefer to stay in a decent hotel but carry tents, sleeping gear, food and all emergency equipment. Between rides they do serious push-biking to stay fit.
They’re not sure where they’ll ride in the next 12 months but they’re sure they’ll be back at Walcha next year for what both agree is “just a fantastic experience. The best rally we’ve been to.”
who ride but who’re also interested in how other people ride, and how they do other things besides - more a rural show built around a twowheeled theme.
For riding displays and activities there was the full gambit from the skills of trials, through enduro, adventure/trail, street rides, a wheelie bike and of course the burnout comps. The activities started with strider bike races for infants, dirt bike barrel races for Under 8’s and up to a Demolition Derby (cars, not bikes – relax!) which was won this year by the cop from Nowendoc.
Then there was a display by the Back Track Youth-Works people who pair troubled youth with working dogs to instil meaning and purpose into the kids. u
Christina and Korrina Chat
For the last ten years, these two’ve been besties originally brought together through love of riding in Armidale where they both live. Originally it was hard-top riding. For Catherina– who looks 24 carat R.M. Williams country – you know the collar up and cashmere pullover over her shoulders, sleeves crossed in front type queen - on her Triumph, and Korrina – she of wild, fiery eyes, who reminds me of an excited horse behind a fence just wanting to get out and run - on her Yamaha, but then a bit over two years back things changed.
Korrina: “The stingy government only gives me 13 points on my license and, well, my riding habits aren’t all that conducive to me keeping them. I’m always low on points so I figured there’s not too many coppers hiding behind bushes on dirt trails and so I can ride like I want and keep my license. That’s the only reason I went dirt. So, I could satisfy my adrenalin addiction.” Catherine’s switch was a bit different: “There’s an off-road trek in Mongolia that I dreamt of doing and I looked at some videos and I said there is just no way known I could do that on my street bike so I figured if I wanted to do Mongolia I had to learn dirt. Then Covid came around and I wasn’t allowed to go into work and I wanted to do something and I had time so I thought this is the
opportunity to learn a new skill by riding a dirt bike around our 13 acre hobby farm outside Armidale.”
On the Friday of the Walcha Rally, they rode their road bikes down from Armidale but today, Saturday, they’re on their 250cc dirties. And they have no real preference.
In October Catherine took a seven-day ride with Trapp Tours (“Eddie, Robbo and Steve were brilliant”) from Cairns to the pointy bit, then flew home, worked for three days and jumped on her Street Triple for a ride to the MotoGP, doing 3,600km round trip.
Christina: “Every time I get on the road, I think road riding is my passion and every time I get on the dirt on my dirt bike, I think adventure riding is my passion.”
This was their first Walcha Rally and they loved it. Best bit was (and I took their word for it) the ladies’ bathrooms complete with vases of flowers, ornate mirrors and sunscreen. Otherwise the Enduring riding and the barrel racing were up there.
They reckon adventure riding has opened real and virtual horizons to them. Christina’s not sure she’ll ever get to Mongolia, and Korrina’s not certain how long she’ll keep her license, but they’re both certain that their bikes, dirt or street, won’t be gathering cobwebs any time soon.
Organised group rides for both road and off-road were held both days but timing of Saturday’s adventure ride meant the riders missed the street parade through the Walcha town, but this was probably down to a serious off that one of them had.
Food vans of every descriptionalthough I heard a couple of comments that a few more salads and veges options wouldn’t have gone astray –as would’ve more ice (the frozen water type) in the town.
After two days of photographing, riding
and talking with good folks, I follow the music to where the band’s started up.
As the campfires light up in the camping areas, I turn right and head into the bar where cans of beer are just 5 bucks. It’s time for some voluntary liquidation.
Mechanics
Mim Style
Words and Images: Mim Chook
“I
t sounds like a blender full of teaspoons! ...maybe we should put it on the trailer”.
Me: Nah... It’s come this far (my bike and I had just travelled around Australia) and we’ve only got 120kms left to go, it’ll be fine.
400 metres down the road... Well, sh*t, that didn’t go well! Seized. My dream of circumnavigating this country on my trusty little 250, just went up in a plume of oily smoke and mangled metal.
Welcome to my tale of detonation and redemption, where
I reluctantly embark on the painstaking journey to resurrect two worn out bikes and returned them to their former glory.
There’s no denying I asked from my little trail bike the same one would expect from a much larger adventure bike. For thousands of kilometres around Australia I rode it gently, and I maintained and tended it lovingly. But then I demanded from her all that that motor had to offer on that last spectacular ride up to Cape York... after that, there was just the home run. So, in my impatient eagerness to prove we could ride around Oz together, I wrung every last bit of power out of her that she had to give.
Okay... it’s a while since I’ve dabbled with engines, and I’m a bit rusty, so time to draw on my old school knowledge, pull out the spanners, and see how bad the damage really was.
We dropped the motor out and
removed the tightly jammed head and barrel... and it was real ugly. The piston skirt was missing altogether, and it looked like it had rolled over in the barrel. The impact of seizing had damaged the head bolts and it was all pretty twisted out of shape. A bit of online searching for parts made it clear that repairing this motor was too costly, not to mention how much unseen damage might have occurred throughout the bearings and gears...and somewhere in there was the
missing bits of piston!
We put the word out into the online community, and within a week a friend had found a used motor. I downloaded and printed a workshop manual, mainly just to make sure we torqued everything up just right, and then set everything up to spec, and in another week I had it fitted and ready to ride!
But not long after...
“Slow down, I can’t go that fast any more”. Now we took two of these little bikes up
to Cape York... we pushed those two, little 250’s to the brink of what they could do and so not long after changing out that first motor, I was tasked with looking at the other. She was tired. Compression was down. Time for a top end rebuild. Drop the motor. Carefully and methodically, I pull it down as per the manual, and inspect for damage. The piston was deeply scored and the rings badly worn. Now and then I take photos of parts before I pull them off, and lay them out across the table in order, just to make sure I put them back just right (I’m not going to assume I can remember every tiny detail). I send the head and barrel off to be resurfaced and honed, and the valves cleaned up and reseated. We order a top end gasket kit, piston, and timing chain, and in the space of a week it’s all in the garage and waiting for my attention again. Then I pop it back together just the way the manual says to do it. No shortcuts, and no “she’ll be right” attitude. A life relies on this bike being perfect, and it’s a responsibility that can’t be understated. I take the time to do up every nut and bolt to specs, and pay special attention to setting the timing u
which appears to require having one eyeball on each side of the motor vehicle while simultaneously using at least three hands to hold and adjust the chain so the timing marks align. Years ago, I’d seen the result of poor workmanship when putting on a timing chain (camshaft sprocket backwards and the timing out by two teeth). Lucky if you don’t end up bending valves! and at best it would run and sound like a tractor.
So, all up, I spent one weekend pulling the motor apart and ordering parts, a second weekend lining the shiny new bits up and doing anything I can to distract from the job at hand, and the third weekend putting her back together again.
There is nothing so nerve wracking as having an audience when you first start the motor after putting it back together again. The bikes owner, very excited about getting her wheels back, decides to video the cranking of the “new” motor. Then the neighbours over the road come for a look, the couple next door turn up, and the people walking their dog down the road take an interest too. In the time it took me to push the bike onto the driveway and put the fuel in, I amassed a small local audience to witness what could possibly be one of my most humiliating moments as a somewhat capable backyard mechanic.
This is how I found out the exhaust wasn’t bolted on yet.
The symphony of thunderclaps that emanated from that small motor quite possibly tested at least two pacemakers, made birds scatter in a panicked flight of leaves and feathers, and the dog won’t come anywhere near our house again.
However, I’m pleased to say... once again our small and mighty bikes are both back in full adventure mode, running beautifully, and ready for more adventures.
Woomargama National Park Ride
Words and Images: John McLennan
North East Victoria is a mecca for adventure bikes, there is some magnificent riding in the region!
With the Alpine National Park at our doorstep, many of our rides revolve around the countless opportunities to explore that exist in the High Country. We sometimes tend to overlook some of the lesser-known areas, especially towards inland Southern New South Wales. The Woomargama National Park is located approximately 30km northeast of Albury, and covers more than 24,000 hectares.
Woomargama National Park is a personal favourite of mine, having grown up in this region, and I was keen to introduce the park to some of the local riders who haven’t yet been through, or even had it on their radar! I put word out on the Facebook Group page for Northeast Victoria and Southern NSW Adventure Bike Riders, and a group of ten riders turned up all different skills, bikes and abilities, in anticipation of the 300km round loop starting from Wodonga.
Left: This obstacle was deceptively deep! We discovered the hard way that the right-hand rut was the safest option.
Above: The ‘Wambariga Lookout’ overlooks Yambla Range, Tabletop Reserve, Benambra Nature Reserve and out to the plains of the Riverina.
Tin Mine Trail traverses the heart of the Woomargama National Park, and was our first destination, though there are plenty of unsealed trails throughout the park to explore. On the way we aimed to check out a brand-new look out that has just been completed.
Heading off early to try to beat the main heat of the day, we cruised on to Lake Hume, and crossed the Bethanga Bridge on route to the Wymah Ferry Murray River Crossing. As we boarded, no one
appreciated my humour as I warned them enthusiastically not to pay until we got to the other side. We needn’t have worried as the Wymah Ferry is free anyway! The river road was dusty, however very scenic as Lake Hume was full to the brim! As lead rider I saw plenty of snakes crossing the road headed for a drink, in the very inviting water. Once we reached Tunnel Road, we headed west to the Yambla View ‘Wambariga’ Lookout
The Yambla View ‘Wambariga’
Lookout is a brand-new look out, and is located near the start of the Tin Mine Trail on Hanels Road and is definitely worth stopping by! The lookout has a long, raised steel walkway which leads to views of Yambla Range, including Table Top and Benambra Nature Reserves and out to the plains of the Riverina. There are also toilet and picnic facilities. From there it’s only a couple of minutes to the start of Tin Mine Trail. The trail begins winding
through bushland before coming into open pine forest. Having recently been deforested, it was open and barren. Last time I had come down this way the forest was thick and fully grown with wallabies jumping across the track with no warning. After the pine forest we reached the beautiful bush of the Woomargama National Park. The track is well maintained and wound through the bushland on the way to our next port of call, Norths Lookout! u
Main: The River Road follows the shoreline of Lake Hume towards Tunnel Road
Top right: Located in the heart of the Woomargama National Park, the newly opened Wambariga Lookout has toilet and picnic facilities, and a bespoke metal walkway that leads to magnificent views!
Middle right: Norths Lookout offers scenic views towards the Snowy Mountains and across the Murray Valley.
Right: Jason enjoys the tight twisting trails on his CRF 300 Rally.
Far left: Fruitless attempts to pull this bike out only led to it sinking deeper!
The track is big bike friendly, and I can recall seeing a video on Youtube of some guys taking a side car through Tin Mine Trail. Norths Lookout offers views across the Murray Valley, Snowy Mountains and the Riverina. It’s a great place to stop and enjoy the company of your fellow riders as we were all chatting, most of us not knowing each other before the ride. Adventure bikes are a great way to meet like-minded people!
From Norths Lookout the track winds through the beautiful green bush, and has the added fun factor of graded washouts where you can launch your bike into the air. It felt like it was in the air anyway. It’s hard not to get involved in a race on this track. It’s important to remember at my age to just trail ride. I don’t bounce like I used to! Enjoy the scenery, the company, and the sound of the Akro pipe on the mighty 1090! The next point of call arrives after about 20 minutes of riding and a small creek crossing through Basin Creek brings you to Tin Mine Campground. This camping area has pit toilets, picnic tables and fire pits. It’s inviting green open spaces make it a great spot to overnight in the cooler months, however having been through here in Summer, I don’t
Woomargama National Park Facts
Woomargama
National Park is located around 35kms north east of Albury/Wodonga
The Park has two campgrounds with fire pits, tables and toilet facilities. Camping is free, although bookings are essential, and a $6 booking fee applies. Come well prepared as these campgrounds are remote.
There are spectacular views from Yambla and Norths lookouts.
The Hume and Hovell Walking track passes through the Park.
The park is approximately 24,000 hectares in size.
Access to Woomargama National Park is well signposted. From the township of Woomargama, just off the Hume Freeway, travel along Tunnel Road for around 10km to a parking and a picnic area at the park entrance, with the Samual Bollard Campground just a few hundred metres further into the park.
Main: We all underestimated the depth of this mysterious quicksand bog!
Left: The mighty 1090 to the rescue with the legendary Andy Strapz ‘Tugger’ tow rope.
wOOmarGama natIOnal Park rIde
think it would be as inviting it was hot and dry when we came through, though I believe it would be reasonably cool right next to Basin Creek which runs through the campground. Just past the Tin Mine Campground there is a left turn that takes you to a hut well worth a look, however there was a massive quicksand bog that caught us by surprise! This 890 went in very deep, and when you moved the bike, it just got deeper! Still, we had to make sure we counted everyone when we finally got the bike out, as people can disappear in that bog and never be seen or heard of again. They would just sink and be gone before they could let anyone else know they were going under! Not your ordinary everyday mud puddle. After extracting the 890 with a 1090 and an Andy Strapz legendary ‘Tugger’ rope, we headed back to Tin Mine Track and eventually to Jingellic and then lunch and refuel at the Walwa store. I highly recommend the hamburgers at the Walwa store! From here one or two riders peeled off and we moved on towards Shelley Forest and a fun track called Firebrace Track. This track passes by the Conic Range rock formation, looks to be full of deer, and eventually brought us to the Granya Gap. This track takes you up to Mount Granya, and the fire lookout that is on top. Awesome views across to Jarvis Creek Regional Park, our next destination. A side track brought our somewhat weary group down onto Jarvis Creek Road, then up onto Plateau Road to traverse the Jarvis Creek Park. From there through some more back roads out in the small township of Bethanga right in front of the pub! Unfortunately, the Bethanga Pub was closed, we had been looking forward to washing the dust down with a quiet one and debriefing from the days ride, but it wasn’t to be. It was very warm by now and our water supplies were low, so we parted ways and ended a magnificent ride, and gained many great memories and new mates!
Top: Basin Creek flows through Tin Mine Campground. Above: Jason charges through another mud obstacle on his trusty CRF 300. Below left: Walwa General Store hamburgers are highly recommended. Below: Enjoying the views over Lake Hume from Bethanga Lookout.
Dirk von Zitzewitz
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If you never never go…
At the end of the seventh annual Perth Adventure Riders Midwest or Bust ride in 2022, Craig Holt hatched a plan to turn it up a notch for 2023. His better half Simone, riffing on Darryl Summers’ 1994 NT tourism ad, came up with the name, and the Never Never ride was born.
Words: Tadhg “Tiger” MacCarthy
Photos: Tiger, Lydia “Flo” Cobham & others
Craig and his merry crew of support drivers Peter Jacobs, Andrew Johnstone and lead rider Mike Littlefair got to planning, planning and more planning; and that was just to ensure the beer supplies would be sufficient; with twenty-five riders and two support drivers not a trivial task.
The goal was to start from Perth and take in the old Gunbarrel Highway, one of the iconic locations in WA. This would mean a round trip of approximately 3,500kms over 9 days. Big days in the saddle, tougher more remote terrain, no rest day. How many notches did you say Craig?
Bullsbrook to Koorda (300kms)
After many weeks of preparation, buying just one more thing, the start day dawned on Saturday 12th of August. It was a cool 6C and overcast as I rode out the gate, the weather matching my mood as there was some not insignificant trepidation at what was to come.
The group convened at our starting location of Bullsbrook, about 50kms from the Perth CBD. Today we would have a relatively
Left: “Never Never again!” Right: Never Never Ride 2023
u
short run of 300kms, traversing the wheatbelt to Koorda.
We had a size 42DD pink bra to be donned each day by the person deemed not to have not been keeping, ahem, abreast of things. This bra would gain notoriety in the country pubs of WA before the trip was out. John Tuckett became the first recipient, as he almost turned up twenty-four hours early for the ride, saved by a last-minute call to Craig Holt.
With recent rains, the wheatbelt turned on a show with the patchwork green and gold of the wheat and canola fields. This turned out to be a good omen for the Matildas as they would see off the USA in the World Cup that evening.
An eventful day, Neal Allen missed the first corner of the trip and had to be chased down, and Jason “Oggie” Ogg’s WR450F gave up the ghost 13km or 0.37% into the trip. Multiple days of valiant diagnosis could not revive the WR.
A diversion along a railroad track turned into a recreation of Disney on Ice with many binning it in the slimy mud. Frank McGrory “sprained” his ankle but soldiered on for the rest of the week. Old road racers are made of tougher stuff.
The cold beers, hot meal, and warm bed for the latte sipping non-campers at the Koorda hotel was a welcome end to the day.
Koorda to Sandstone (470 kms)
We woke to a sleepy, cool, foggy Sunday Koorda morning. Bags were packed, gear was donned, instructions were dispensed, and we were once again into the wheatbelt gravel roads with flocks of pink and grey galahs rising from the roadside. The fog was heavily moisture laden which mixed with the rising dust and created a fine mud which made visibility low and riding difficult for the first couple of hours. The fog and temperature eventually lifted, but the skies remained overcast as we made our way to Paynes Find for a fuel and food top up. A fast-approaching rainstorm from the west had us bid a hasty retreat east from Paynes Find to our destination of Sandstone via the tourist spots of London Bridge and Cave Brewery. We rolled into Sandstone, and, oh look, another pub. A cold beer after a long day in the saddle – heaven on a stick.
Sandstone to Carnegie Station (550 kms)
Once again, the day dawned to overcast skies and low visibility due to fog. It took until late morning for standard WA programming of blue skies to return. A bit of a marathon day today as we had 550 kms to punch out. We hit Wiluna after 220 kms, fuelled up bikes and bodies to make the 330 kms trek due east to Carnegie Station. Beyond Wiluna, the remoteness becomes more evident.
At one stop, lead rider Mike Littlefair’s DR650 sounded like an old Ducati; that is, an explosion in a spoon factory. The diagnosis was terminal, and the DR was loaded onto the trailer. Mike had somehow managed to kill his second unkillable DR650. Life on the rev limiter can be punishing.
Not far out of Carnegie, a massive young bull ran out in front of me, stopped, squared me up, thought about it for a while then went “Yeah, nah”, before trotting off with his sizable mangoes swaying in the wind. A young jackaroo at the station later confirmed “He’ll go ya,” as well as supplying the anatomically correct term of mangoes.
The young crew at Carnegie station were very friendly and welcoming, and put on a big feed for us that evening and regaled us with mustering stories. We finished the evening around the
campfire, wondering what lay ahead.
Carnegie Station to Carnage (300kms)
This is what we came for, the old Gunbarrel Highway was on the agenda today. The lead up to today was merely transport, the special test was about to start.
Temperatures were up, which was pleasant. My anxiety was also up, not knowing what to expect, which was not pleasant. I should have stuck to the mantra, just ride what’s in front of you.
The track got rougher as the morning wore on. Some longer red sandy stretches came into play and the carnage began. The victims’ names have been suppressed to protect the injured from further
Some bike shuffling saw our lead rider DRKilla Mike on a KTM500, Neal Barnes jumping on a Pat Devahasdin’s T7, with Pat opting for a day in the car.
Above: Lunch-stop on the way to Carnegie Station. Bottom left: Mike Littlefair and his soon to be dead DR650. Bottom right: A camp dog, a campfire, and a camp man in a pink bra…
scrutiny from less than happy partners.
At the end of one sandy stretch, victim number 1 went bush, got taken off his bike clothesline style by a tree branch, and surfaced UFC style with a broken nose and black eye.
Before you could say “slow down!”, victim number 2 hit two square edges and took a trip over the bars. He reckons he could have handled one square
SUZUKI DRZ400
edge. Some broken ribs served as a painful reminder.
Victim number 3 who had been in the car since the 13km mark on day one, took Alan McDonald’s DRZ for a spin and being too eager, binned it after twenty minutes and emerged battered and bruised but luckily with nothing broken.
Not to be outdone, victim number 4 took a tumble and scored a broken
Above: No point falling off without an audience, Neal Allen bins it for the crew.
shoulder. The 4WDs were beginning to resemble homeless shelters with an ICU ward. We really need to have a medical support vehicle in tow!
With all these delays, it was clear that we weren’t going to make the original camp and the plan was changed to camp
60km sooner than planned.
I was a lone cornerman for a long time and used the setting sun to hone my suspect photography skills. As dusk set in, I decided I had waited long enough for the stragglers and made it to camp just before dark.
After darkness settled, the three remaining stragglers arrived with tales of unplanned spinifex excursions, hasty rescues, and riding in darkness.
Soon after, our very own Florence Nightingale appeared. The young
Cobham family Ben, Lydia with kids Harry and Zara in their 4WD with trick home built camper trailer arrived at our campsite. Our medical support vehicle had arrived! Lydia, a trauma nurse not wasting even two minutes to eat her noodles, set up an A&E triage next to the campfire and tended to the wounded. What a star! The people you meet make the difference and make the trip.
The support crew cooked a slap-up BBQ dinner and we sank a few coldies around the fire, crawled into our tents to
rest, recuperate and contemplate doing it all again the next day.
Gunbarrel Camp to Tjukayrla (430kms)
It was a beautiful dawn over the campsite, the temperature was perfect. The Gunbarrel jitters were over; this was the best day of riding for me. The Gunbarrel continued to track through spinifex country; no photo could capture the beauty and remoteness of the place. The track then turned to seemingly endless rutted, sandy, 4WD tracks that kept you on your toes but were super fun at the same time.
Far top left: Nigel Schofield & Husky 701 on the Gunbarrel Hwy.
Top left: Big Steve Gernhoefer & KTM500 on the Gunbarrel Hwy.
Above: Bored cornerman honing his suspect photography skills.
Right: The Cobham family: Ben, Lydia “Florence Nightingale”, Harry & Zara.
Below: The three stragglers still on the trail as the sun sets.
Too soon we turned off the Gunbarrel on to the Heather Highway and the track changed again; this time to deep, rutted, pea gravel. Challenging riding as the bike just followed whatever rut you were in.
We came across a couple in a 4WD and caravan who had been broken down for a day and a half, a reminder of the remoteness of the area. We would deliver their location to the police and their family once we hit Warburton to enable a rescue, but first we got to sample the Great Central Road which seems to be a popular graveyard for vehicles, another reminder of the remoteness.
We made it into Warburton for lunch and met up with the Cobhams again with Lydia doing another check of her patients.
Lenny Hicks rode in looking to speak to James Filear about setting the sag on his suspension on his DR650 as “it seemed a little squirrely” when he sat down. A quick inspection revealed that the bottom bolt of the rear shock was missing, and the rear suspension was ultimately non-existent. James and fellow mechanics were quickly on the case, using the dead DR on the trailer for spare parts and suspension was soon restored and we were on our way to Tjukayrla or Chooka as it is known locally. We finished the day with a challenging ride into the sun with an increasingly chilling wind. 430 kms punched out today and the special test was complete.
Left: Lydia “Flo” sees off her patched-up patients. Middle & bottom left: The notorious skimpy impersonator Lenny Hicks is finally apprehended in Leonora.
Right: The crew outside Margaret’s Grand Hotel in Kookynie.
Bottom right: Jamie Kelly – smiling under his helmet.
The transport home (1,655 kms)
With memories for a lifetime from the old Gunbarrel Highway banked; for the next four days we reverted from special test mode to transport mode.
Another chilly morning, our destination for today was the mining town of Leonora, via Laverton after a big 430 kms. The night in the Leonora pub was one of the highlights of the trip. Lenny “suspension guru” Hicks was donning the bra and got collared by the local constabulary that scuppered his promising new career.
Next morning, we hightailed from Leonora to Sandstone. We took in the goldrush era ghost town of Kookynie that refuses to die. James Filear had a great chat with Margaret (no need for surnames in Kookynie) the proprietor of the Grand Hotel and resident for 34 years. They spoke of their shared friends, Janice Cook and her uncle Bill Bright. Janice originally moved to Kookynie from Perth in her self-built sulky. A true adventure rider. Bill Bright, a WWI veteran, was a long-time resident and a local legend. Wonderful to hear these stories of the past brought to life by Margaret.
Our lunch stop was Lake Ballard, an ephemeral salt-lake, home to an open-air art gallery containing 51 sculptures of local Menzie residents by artist Anthony Gormley. The sculptures give the lake a spiritual dimension that captures the Indigenous connection to country.
After another big day of 430 kms, we arrived for our second visit to Sandstone and a stay in the well-appointed primary school. The crew was somewhat subdued that evening, maybe a little weary after seven days on the road.
Next morning, as the crew prepared for the off, Gary Turner was in a flap having lost the keys to his 690. James Filear was quickly on the case, setting up a pluggable hot-wire system just in time for Gary to find his keys in his backpack. Guess that sorts who’s wearing the pink bra today.
Another 400-plus km today with our
destination and last night in the town of Perenjori, from the Aboriginal word “Perangary”, meaning water hole.
We quickly retired to the water hole that is the Perenjori Hotel for a night of celebration and frivolity, with the highlight a music quiz curated by Jason “Oggie” Ogg with a song for each member of the crew.
All good things come to an end, and we woke up to the reality of a hangover, the Matildas out of the World Cup and the trip coming to an end.
Back to our starting point of Bullsbrook today and the worry of how to reintegrate into society after an epic nine-day trip with twenty-six of your closest mates. Thanks to all who made this possible, you
know who you are.
Post-script: Nearly nearly didn’t go…
Young Jamie Kelly had multiple bike problems prior to the trip, that is, multiple problems with multiple bikes, and he made the correct call to bail out of the trip. Frank McGrory entered the fray and offered his well set up Honda CRF300L to Jamie. It took some convincing, but finally Jamie gratefully accepted the offer. He proceeded to smile his way through nine days of riding, showing the capabilities of the little 300. People make the difference and make the trip; Frank’s generosity was above and beyond and certainly made Jamie’s trip. You do meet the nicest people on a Honda.
A Complete Guide to Transporting an Adventure Bike
dventure riders want to spend as much time as possible in the saddle, but what happens when you need to transport a bike?
It may be when you’re buying or selling, or perhaps you are finally journeying to that out of state adventure riding weekend with mates, which has been months in the planning, and want to save time and bike wear by linking part of the route without riding.
For whatever reason, there are sound principles that apply to save your frustration and cost. To assist in making the most informed decision, we’ve compiled a guide to aid you in securing stress-free bike transportation.
We’ll take you through the advantages and potential disadvantages of the various options, whether you are doing it yourself or using a specialist moving company. With this guide you can avoid common mistakes, confidently prepare your motorcycle for transport and save money at the end of it all.
Do it yourself or use a transport company?
These are your two options, and below, we’ll break down each.
Do it yourself
If you own a ute, van or a vehicle with a tow hitch, you can transport a bike yourself. This can be an excellent solution for shorterdistance trips if you have experience securing a motorcycle and driving with the extra weight. Remember that you may also have limited visibility at the rear as the bike may obstruct your view.
If you’re using a ute, rigging your bike into the tub is easier with a single-cab, with adequate space and tie-down points to rig and secure a bike without opening the tailgate flap. But on a dual-cab ute, you might be tight on space, having to rig your motorcycle with an open tailgate.
If you’re not confident getting the bike up a ramp and into position, ensure you have a few extra pairs of hands to support. This may seem excessive, but the motorcycle suddenly gets unbalanced when
you’re at an awkward angle. Moving a bike yourself may seem like a cheaper option, and it can often be for shorter distances. However, if the move is interstate or a long distance, a motorcycle transport company will usually work out more cost-effective as they’re moving multiple bikes simultaneously.
Using a transport company
The good news is that there are several motorcycle moving companies across Aus; however, ensuring you use a reputable and reliable one is more challenging. There are a few things to help you make a decision and watch out for:
3Read their reviews, both on the website and on Google
3Get multiple quotes to make sure you’re getting a fair price
3Check they have insurance
Tip: If all this feels a little daunting, you can use a website that can source multiple quotes from vetted and trusted motorcycle transport providers in one request; it’s called
Word and images: Upmove (Ed Burton)
Upmove www.upmove.com.au/ motorcycle-transport.
When moving a bike over a long distance, outsourcing the move usually makes sense cost-wise as it saves you fuel and multiple days on the road going there and back.
Preparing your bike for transport
Routine cleaning and mechanical hygiene apply to your pre-transport preparations, but there are a few additional things you need to do.
Once you’ve washed and dried your bike, thoroughly survey any damage or scratches, document these, and take images with your phone as corroborating evidence. Adventure bikes are prone to cosmetic damage, therefore, it’s essential to verify the condition of your bike before it is transported.
All those bolt-on accessories that adventure bikers value need to be removed for transport. Get out the tools and remove all non-OEM accessories, categorising bolts with their mounting accessories into marked plastic bags or containers to prevent frustration when reattaching them.
Be mindful of how much fuel you’ll need at the delivery point. If you are transporting for an adventure ride or event, make sure the tank is adequately full to ride on arrival.
Do you need additional insurance?
Even the most reputable bike transport companies can suffer an unfortunate event or issue en route. The cost of escalating your insurance coverage for the few days involved in bike transport is negligible, especially compared to the payment for uncovered damage.
Before any bike is loaded, ensure that your coverage has been comprehensively
updated for any eventuality. It’s always best to be over-insured for transport damages instead of having to quibble when something has gone awry after the fact.
What to avoid when transporting yourself
Ratchets and looping points can be tricky for the inexperienced, and although rubbing or vibration issues are never present when loading a bike, that doesn’t mean they won’t happen once you get moving. At cruising speeds, a few hours into the journey, you could suffer a flailing ratchet strap end, creating a lot of avoidable cosmetic damage to your bike.
Don’t use covers if your bike travels on the back of a ute or is exposed to the elements on a trailer. Most bike covers are designed for static protection when your bike is parked. Bike covers will suffer wind buffeting, make a noise,
and potentially scuff your bike at highway cruising speeds; therefore, avoid using them.
Dropping your bike is a nightmare for all riders, and no matter how confident you feel, don’t overestimate your ability to control a bike for loading or rigging if it’s something you do irregularly. When in doubt, wait for a mate or someone else to assist. This is especially important when loading onto a high surface.
In conclusion
Distance and personal experience will influence your motorcycle transport choice. For closer destinations, it can be cheaper to do it yourself. But the benefit of using a motorcycle transport specialist becomes real when your motorcycle needs to journey out of state, or vast distances within a state.
Discovering a reliable motorcycle transport company to partner with your requirements is easier than ever before.
Ed Burton
a Tale of Many Bikes My Motorcycling Journey, or
Words and Images: Matt Best
Being closer to 50 than I care to face, I’m a relative newcomer to the world of motorcycling, besides irresponsibly belting around the streets on mates’ bikes in my youth. That’s not to say I wasn’t keen to continue riding, albeit in a more responsibleand licenced - manner, other things got in the way. Although the desire remained, I never followed through.
However, when I relocated to Newcastle in 2019 my daily 200 km commute in the Tasmanian winter was replaced with a much more civilised 8 km drive to work. This was my cue to pull my finger out and join the two wheeled world. I dutifully fronted up to the motorcycle course, having not ridden a motorbike - or even a pushbike - for over 30 years, and managed to wobble my way to success. Just to give you an idea of how impressive I was, the instructor reminded me that additional one-on-one training was available should I need it before progressing to my P’s.
Where It All Began
Armed with my newly minted Learners Licence I went on the hunt for a suitable set of wheels to enjoy my newfound freedom. However, I wasn’t keen on over capitalising on something which might scare the pants off me - riding in a major city is a bit different to hooting along the back roads of Tasmania when you’re young and bulletproof. So, I decided a scooter was a cheap, low risk option, and I managed to find just the thing. A 2013 Sym Classic 125 scooter with only 2,500 kms on the clock. Sounds like a pretty sweet deal I hear you say, but before you get carried away with envy, the $400 I paid for it should be a solid indication of the condition it was in. Like I said, I was after a cheap, low risk option.
Left: I guess you gotta start somewhere. Right: Suzuki GSX-S125. Can definitely recommend.
After a big night on the tiles to celebrate my birthday, my son and I dragged our extremely hungover bodies out to see the scooter in person, and through blurry eyes decided it would meet my needs. There was a catch though. The scooter was unregistered, and my son didn’t have his car licence, so the only option was to squeeze it into the back of the Pajero. Assisted by the previous owner and his ramps, we managed to make it fit and headed home. Upon arriving home, we opened the back of the car and was faced with the challenge of getting the bloody thing out - with no ramps. After about half an hour of struggling, swearing, and a few crushed fingers, we got it out, both of us bathed in sweat which reeked of the sins of the night before.
The best way to describe the scooter was ‘adequate’. I did my best to pretty it up, but it was still a $400 scooter. Overlooking the faded paint job and torn seat, the rear drum brakes merely provided the suggestion of stopping, and the centrifugal clutch had the tendency to slip if you were too aggressive taking offwhich, considering my 100kg frame, was a bit of necessity. Performance was unsurprising, with the throttle mostly either wide open or closed, to the point I was considering replacing it with a switch. Having said that, it served me well and never let me down. I ended up selling it for the price I bought it for, so I can’t really complain.
The Bug Has Set In
My first ‘real’ bike was a 2017 Suzuki GSXS125, which was an absolute ball tearer as a learner bike. It went well, had a bit of zip, and looked pretty darn fine. I rode the pants off the bike, taking it out and about in the Hunter Valley on day trips, covering a variety of surfaces. Spending a day on a 125 which screams if you want to go over 80 kph sure is character building, especially on a seat harder than a breadboard. I never had a bad ride on the bike, and although it’s long gone, I still look back on it fondly. It also became my son’s first bike when he started riding. I soon outgrew the GSX and needed to find something more suitable to my body type and intentions. My off-road excursions reignited my love of gravel
roads, so I looked for something which was better built for exploring, as well as being a good commuter. After looking around for options, I decided the Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 would fit the bill. The only problem was the local dealer didn’t have one in stock, but promised one was only a couple of weeks away. Two weeks turned into four weeks, which then became six, with another couple to wait. Getting tired of the wait, I opted to change my order to the more cafe racer styled Vitpilen 401 which they had in stock, and I rode it out of the dealer a couple of days later.
The Vitpilen was a great bike, with its unique styling and a variety of features such as quick shifter and switchable ABS.
It was quick and very manoeuvrable, but had an aggressive riding stance, giving the sensation of flying with little bike visible to you. I put a lot of kms on it very quickly, and enjoyed riding it, but eventually the stance caught up with my old and unfit body. I started to suffer chronic forearm and shoulder aches, and no matter how I shifted my weight, anything more than 10 minutes on the bike became an exercise in endurance.
This meant that as 2021 began I had to face a harsh reality, that, despite my best efforts, I was no longer 25, and needed something more in keeping with my ageing and ‘robust’ frame. Plus the Vitpilen isn’t what you would consider ‘off-road capable’ despite me taking it
down the occasional gravel road. A local dealer had a 2013 Honda CB500X for sale and I thought I’d check it out, just to see what else was out there. Coming from a single cylinder cafe racer, the CB500X was a luxury. Upright riding stance, soft, wide seat, and a smooth and quiet parallel twin. I was sold and I had officially entered the age of the ‘dad bike’.
Dad Mode Engaged
I loved the CB500X. It ticked so many boxes, it was comfortable, reliable, and more than suitable for touring, both on and off road. That didn’t stop me from putting my own touches on it, fitting more off-road suitable tyres, heated grips, luggage, and a couple of USB ports. As I was getting sillier in my ambitions I also fitted BarkBusters, crash bars, and a bash plate, just so I could be sure my occasional brain farts didn’t have expensive consequences.
Trips around the Hunter Valley were a pleasure, and although no trip lasted longer than a day, they often started early in the morning with no plan other than
That was the plan anyway…
It wasn’t long before the TransAlp became my daily rider whilst the CB500X sat watching. The feel of the V-Twin engine and the sound of the aftermarket exhaust enticed me, and the heft of the bike was comforting. It was old, had its faults, and it didn’t seem that the previous owner had given it the care and attention it deserved. The TransAlp still remained relatively short on bling; the only additions I made were replacing the bent OEM bars with Protaper EVO Adventure bars, complete with BarkBusters, and fitting a USB port to the dash. I also replaced the front sprocket with a Super Pinion from Italy due to the tendency of these bikes to chew out counter shafts.
A three day trip on the TransAlp around the Blue Mountains and Bylong Valley pretty much set the fate of my beloved CB500X. After spending so long on the TransAlp, the CB felt light, underpowered, and somewhat underwhelming, despite being the newer and more sensible choice. So it too was sold, but not without making sure that it was going to a good home. This now meant we had
to ride, and ended with me returning home after dark, with both the bike and myself dirty and exhausted. Continuing my luck with bikes, the CB500X never let me down, despite my ambitions often outstripping my ability. The clock was ticking though and I could see the point approaching where I would get too silly and do some real damage to my pride and joy.
It’s at this point the TransAlp comes in. Recognising I was running a risk of pushing the CB500X too far, I started looking for a cheaper, second bike I could use for my more adventurous adventures, and keep the CB500X for more civilised touring. I found a 2005 Honda XL650V TransAlp for sale locally at a good price, and having long been a TransAlp fan I brought it home. Now, the TransAlp was going to be my second, cheaper bike, with no expensive farkles, merely a workhorse to save my real bike from abuse.
Top left: Husqvarna Vitpilen 401. Young and nimble need only apply.
Bottom left: CB500X. This from one of my early trips to Barrington Tops.
Above: Ironing out the traces of previous owners.
Right: My beloved CB500X heading off to a new owner and adventures.
returned to a two bike household - my son having his MT07 - which made my wife very happy.
For a while at least….
Now as much as I loved the TransAlp, it was never going to be my forever bike. With rumours abounding in 2021 that Honda were going to rerelease the TransAlp, or a baby Africa Twin at least, I considered it to be merely a stop gap until Honda pulled their fingers out and gave me the bike I really wanted. Unfortunately the end of year bike exhibitions came and went, with nary a whisper from Honda, and I’d resigned myself to another 12 months of waiting. In the meantime, Ducati announced the Desert X, Aprilia announced the Tuareg 660, and there was always the Ténéré 700 in the mix. So I made the decision, against my better judgement, to look into things further. Let’s face it, the TransAlp was getting old and was reaching that tipping point where upkeep was going to start to become expensive - it already had an intermittent immobiliser issue and a slight leak from the water pump, among other minor inconveniences.
The Era of the Mighty KLR
So, once again, I convinced myself that another new bike day was approaching, I just didn’t know the bike nor the day. Although both the Ducati and Aprilia tickled my fancy, and the wait for them would be long enough that by the time they arrived I could convince my wife that I was due for another bike, a dose of realism kicked in. Considering my love of disappearing over the horizon, should anything go wrong miles from home, finding a workshop or parts for either of these would be problematic. Let’s not even mention my riding capabilities, or lack thereof. So maybe I needed to temper my expectations a little.
And temper them I did, settling on the 2022 Kawasaki KLR650 Adventure. Although it didn’t have the bells and whistles of the competitors, it provided just what I needed. Simple, reliable, with no chance of setting the world on fire, and in an extremely economical package. But
Left: Out and about on the TransAlp. Below:Rebuilt TransAlp.
Top right: New. Fresh from the crate. Traveling on the KLR.
like all of my bikes, it wasn’t long before I was spending money ‘improving’ thingsand then gradually taking them back off as I realised sometimes stock is better.
New KLR. Fresh from the crate
That was February last year, and surprisingly there’s been no other changes to my
garage - well, that is if you don’t count the 2002 Aprilia Leonardo 150 scooter I bought for a bargain price to do short summer rides on. The KLR has now got 18,000 kms on it, including a nine day solo trip out to Mildura last year, as well as other shorter adventures around the place. I think I’ll keep the KLR for a while, and it’s not because my wife says I have to, no sir. I look forward to one day sitting in my rocking chair telling the Gen 5 KLR owners about the great doohickey wars, and how they just don’t know how good they’ve got it.
As for the TransAlp the bike which I said was becoming uneconomical to maintain, and I was struggling to justify. Well, I just spent a few months giving it a complete rebuild, replacing all the bearings and seals, as well as fixing the niggling issues it had. With a fresh new paint job, it’s like a new bike that’s a real risk of pushing the KLR off its mantle. A recent five day excursion to Lighting Ridge on it cemented its credentials as a Rally Tourer in my mind. But temptation always beckons. The new TransAlps look pretty good. Maybe I should replace the KLR with a
DR650. I’ve always wanted an Africa Twin. It goes on…
Considering my main reason for buying a bike was more convenient commuting, I think I’m well and truly down the rabbit hole. In five years I’ve owned seven bikes and no longer own a car. Any opportunity to jump on the bike and disappear for a few days is taken advantage of.
And the ironic thing is I’m always hearing of people going to ride the amazing roads of Tasmania. Whereas I didn’t start riding until after I left the Apple Isle, and I’m riding longer and further than I ever could have imagined.
Our Community
Name: Shaun Terblanche
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Bike(s): BMW R1250GS Adventure
IS THERE A BIKE YOU WOULD LOVE TO EXPERIENCE, THAT YOU’VE NOT HAD A CHANCE TO YET?
If I get the opportunity to ride a BMW R80G/S I’d grab it with both hands, this bike is the father of all things GS and adventure riding. Another bike I’d love to throw a leg over is the 2023 Bike Of The Year - The BMW M1000R.
YOUR
STAND-OUT
MOTORCYCLING MEMORY
There are many and it’s hard to pick one, but the day I qualified as one of the three rider team to represent Australia at the international GS Trophy in 2020 is a moment I won’t forget!! The Qualifying event, held at Dargle in NSW, was the culmination of 16 months of intense training! When I set my goal to participate at the GS Trophy I was pretty new to the adventure riding scene (and motorcycling in general) and I knew I had my work cut out to gain the skills required to make the team. The task at hand seemed near impossible, but that was never going to stop me from chasing the dream, it made me more determined to make it happen! If you don’t know what GS Trophy is, do a search on YouTube and check it out.
THE TOP 5 THINGS YOU NOW KNOW ABOUT MOTORCYCLE RIDING THAT YOU DIDN’T KNOW WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED
1. Off road training is very underrated and the learning never stops! You can watch all the videos you want but having personal feedback from a coach who watches you ride and providing real-time feedback on the spot is invaluable! And practice the things you learn, often. Just because you’ve done something in a controlled environment a few times at a training course doesn’t mean you can bank the skill and it will be muscle memory when you need it out on a ride.
2. Spend your money on quality and appropriate riding gear. Boots are often overlooked as most people want a ‘comfortable’ adventure boot… They’re not of much use, nor very comfortable for that matter, when things don’t go as planned.
3. The community is amazing!! Before I started riding it was mainly the idea of riding with my brother and a few mates that appealed to me, but as I spent more time on bikes and joined BMW Safari as a customer on a couple of their events, I quickly realised that those who ride are like extended family! We look out for each other and spread the joy of what we do. We are always excited to meet new people and it’s great to see old faces again!
4. Social media – there are a lot of experts, but the real experts rarely engage there, so if you want to know something, take the comments on Facebook with a pinch of salt and approach someone with real
credibility! We’ve all seen some things, I could mention an endless list of good and bad experiences, so when someone in the industry tells you something it’s generally backed by our experience and we’re saying it in your best interest.
5. Ride smart – adventure riding is more than simply being able to ride the bike, it’s about making smart decisions, riding within your limits (leaving some up your sleeve), not getting sucked in or pressured into doing something you don’t feel comfortable with or riding at a pace that is too fast for your experience and skill level, especially when unsupported! Manage your energy consumption and drink more water (and take electrolytes) than you think you need. Sometimes making smart decisions means watching other riders go through, up, or down something that may push the limits of your comfort zone, if it means helping each other through a water crossing or sitting down and walking a bike through a rut or mud it’s not considered a fail, it’s a smart way to reduce the risk of crashing and damaging a bike or injuring yourself.
APART FROM A MOBILE PHONE, IF YOU COULD ONLY TAKE ONE PIECE OF KIT ON A RIDE, WHAT WOULD IT BE, AND WHY?
My backpack – it contains the essentials!! Water, snacks, electrolytes, Garmin InReach, waterproof liners and a few other
bits and pieces. If you get caught out there your survival is most important!
IS THERE ANY RIDE YOU’VE NOT DONE THAT YOU WANT TO?
There are many but one track that is quite high on my bucket list is Blue Rag in the Vic High Country. Another is a tour through South Africa, where I grew up. I never had the opportunity to ride there and it’s such a beautiful country with endless tracks and destinations!
FOR A VISITING MOTORCYCLIST TO OUR COUNTRY, WHAT TOP 3 RIDES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND AND WHY?
1. A Flinders Ranges loop from the Barossa Valley in Spring. Starting off in the Barossa you ride through green farmlands and the canola fields colour the landscape with their bright yellow flowers! Over the following days the landscape gets more barren and rugged, but the wildflowers are everywhere and add colour to an otherwise very harsh environment. The riding through the Flinders varies from flowy tracks to rocky riverbeds and everything in between, it’s an amazing part of the world!!
2. Tassie!! The little island that has it all, from beautiful twisty bitumen roads to dirt tracks that take you to lookouts with the most spectacular views, Tassie never stops surprising! You can spend weeks travelling Tassie and there will still be more to explore! Make sure you pack your Gore-Tex liners
3. The Aussie Outback. There’s no feeling like riding across the vast open spaces of the Outback and passing through small towns where each community has its own vibe, and depending on where you go you may find some swimming holes to relax and refresh in!
WHAT MOTORCYCLING ACTIVITIES/ PROJECTS ARE YOU INVOLVED WITH?
I am one of the head coaches at BMW Off Road Training Australia and staff member on BMW Safari and GS Tours. I started off as a BMW Safari customer in 2017 and was hooked straight away, I couldn’t get enough of the Safari experience and the people! I made it my goal to get more involved on the events and after a helping out on a few events I finally packed up and moved from Perth to Brisbane in April 2022, and since then have been involved with nearly every event on the calendar! It’s a massive privilege to be able to work
with the Safari and ORT team and it’s one of the most rewarding feelings to see excited riders leave our off road riding courses much more relaxed and confident compared to their arrival.
WHAT IS THE BEST RIDER TRAINING EXPERIENCE YOU’VE HAD?
I completed my first course as a newbie in 2017 at the Pre-Safari training in Perth and followed it up with some more training the following year. I don’t think there is one stand-out experience for me, I always learn something from my instructors and mentors and there are key components to take from every course. You could take the same course two or three times and walk away with a different skillset every time, as some core skills become second nature you are open to absorbing new information and work on new skills! Urk (Chris Urquhart), (Boothy) Shane Booth and MD (Miles Davis) have certainly been my biggest mentors and I just got back from Spain where Skip (Adam Schipper) and I completed our BMW International Instructor Academy Certification.
YOUR FUNNIEST MOTORCYCLING RELATED EXPERIENCE
Turning up to a track day on an R1200GS with Karoo 3’s fitted… The faces and comments are priceless, especially before the riding starts. When you come back into the pits after a few laps there’s always a buzz around a GS and when the other riders then realise you’re on dirt oriented
tyres the confusion is clearly visible on their faces!
ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO ADD?
Although BMW Safari are BMW-only events, our BMW Off Road Training courses and GS Tours are open to all brands motorcycles.
The Adventure Skills course is perfect for riders with zero dirt riding experience, those who have had a break and would like a refresher, or perhaps someone who feels like they would like to cement the core skills before participating in a BMW Safari or GS Tour, or before signing up for an Adventure Expert course. The Adventure Expert course is not for highly experienced riders only, we do focus on refining the core skills, precision, and accuracy, placing the bike where you can maximise traction and ride more efficiently. Therefore, we suggest you have completed an Adventure Skills course and practiced those skills before signing up for our Expert course.
Our BMW Safari and GS Tour events are fully supported tours, GS Tours are smaller format (up to 20 riders) and we carry your luggage. Our staff consist of lead and sweep riders as well as marshals ensure everyone knows where to go and help out should you have any mechanical problems, or if any medical issues arise we have a doctor or paramedic on all our events.
We have a few awesome tours coming up in 2024, head to www.gsoffroad.com.au for more info.
In The Helmet Wolverine
Before you read this story let me ask you something.
Do you ever find yourself arguing with different voices, or voice tones, in your head?
Even if it’s, “Should I go right, or left? Go right as the track has creek crossings, go left and you have a km beach run….”
Or, ever fallen, and for a few moments a whole scenario plays out in your head like a piece of theatre?
Or, got to the end of a long day’s ride and wondered if you are almost hallucinating?
If you know what I mean, then maybe you’ll understand the voices I talk about in this tale of adventure.
‘Do you know Wolverine?’
A little voice pops out of nowhere in my head.
Maybe six hours of continuous rattling of the brain box on corrugations is starting to take its toll on the general working status of its internal grey matter. Since there are still a million more corrugations to go over before the next stop at the Mount Barnett Roadhouse, I figured I had time to answer the question...
Don’t expect an instant answer though. I find adventure riding can cause all manner of distractions.
As said, there is a lot of helmet time riding your motorbike across the Gibbs River Road, on the way to Adelaide through the Tanami,
Alice Springs, and Coober Pedy. ‘Yeeees?’
A memory cog moved in my brain and some inner light shone over some distant memory of claws coming out of clenched fists.
‘Good! So – the little voice continued - you know his superpower is self-healing, right?’
Righto! Wasn’t about claws then! Another image comes to life replacing the red road ahead –Wolverine’s many skin cuts closing by themselves with a slurping sound. ‘Yes, I know!’ I rememb… Wolverine disappears as quick as his wounds healed and the image is again replaced, this time with nothing but red from the
bull-dust hole which I have just hit. While I really mind, the bike doesn’t, and makes short work of it.
Seems that somebody else didn’t mind either… ‘Hello?... Still there?... Yes?... Good! So, you see, I think that his superpower is not reeeeeally a good one to have!’
OK. So, a few seconds ago, I was just about the make myself acquainted with the dirt so I decide to be rude and maintain the silence hoping it will go away. It takes a lot of strength to keep silent when someone is talking to you. I am weak… I give in: ‘Why is that?’ The answer came lightning fast: ‘Because he cannot lose his head, since it will just grow back’.
Is this a ‘to be or not to be’ question prompted by the bull-dust encounter?
Top: Left to right, Mark, Colin, Werner and yours truly (King Leopold Ranges, towards Imintji) Above: Ready for the RFDS pick up. u
Am I rambling now? (It’s been a long ride.)
I had to defer the answer as King Leopold Ranges’ Mount Barnett Roadhouse came into view. A welcome sight, a good meal (no beer), fuel… the little things that make a good end of a day’s ride. Colin, Werner and then Mark pull in just after me. Somewhere behind their red-dusted faces there is a grin only stopped by their ears. We pay our camping stay fee, refuel,
Top: Entering the Tanami track from the WA side. All looks good (and smooth...).
Far left: Stencilled in iron, the Aboriginal proverb that transcends all religions and beliefs, as welcoming as the Gibb River’s Home Valley Station which lies behind it.
Left: The very sign marking the border between WA and the NT. Right: Emptiness ... silence ...
replenish our water tanks, buy the obligatory sticker and get ready for the last 7 km to the camp site. I see Mark coming out of the shop with a long piece of wire and starting doing something to his bike’s front fork-handlebar assembly. We all gather around him and see that the welding has gave up the ghost. Normally not a huge issue but the bush repair would need to resist what was still to come… over the next 2000 km of track. Without vocalising, I am sure however that all of us had our own thoughts on the matter but, too tired and worn down, we decided to set up camp first, then see what’s what. We all nod in agreement while pouring copious amounts of sweat under the relentless sun and heavy riding protection gear, put the helmets on and start in convoy. Me, Colin, Werner, Mark. The 7km proved to be a rather tortuous bush trail - the
kind you cannot keep a straight line of sight to your buddy in front or at the back -, not too narrow, not too wide, with just a bit of sand here and there. We make it to the camp, dismount, start setting up. Werner arrives after 5 or so minutes. Waiting for Mark… another 5 minutes, another 10, another 15… We start to get worried…Quick recap – he signalled ‘OK’ when we left, he is carrying one of the radios, Werner saw him starting behind him, saw him riding behind him, then lost him in the myriad of corners… A truck enters the campsite and drives to us: ‘Are you waiting on another guy? He has fallen
on the track and cannot get up’. Immediate change to our mind set. Grab radio and try to contact – nothing. Mobile phones are useless – no signal. We allocate tasks – Werner goes back with comms, we stay back and await a radio report as we might have to get help from other people in the camp. A few minutes later a SITREP is radioed back by Werner: Mark has fallen on a small sandy stretch in the middle of a corner, he is pinned under his bike, the bike looks rideable but is leaking fuel on Mark… and the foot points to a very wrong direction compared to his ankle’.
We decide that Werner will stay there to
direct traffic away from the crash. We grab one bike and join them. We all help to free Mark and get him and the bike away from the puddle of fuel which now starts to form around. Even with the motocross
Above: Cockburn Range lookout. Approximate coordinates: -17.11151, 125.13852. Other than the sheer beauty, the only place on the Gibb where a Telstra phone may connect in an otherwisde Optus fiefdom.
Bottom left: A moment frozen in time.
Below: Dreaming of the shower that never came for Mark at Barnett Road House.
bike boot on, the foot-ankle-skin combo does not look right. Obvious fracture, angulation, and rotation. Mark does not make a secret of it either as he describes a mighty crack as his foot got caught between the bike and ground during the fall. But he does not feel his boot filling with blood, which is a positive sign. Quick Airway-Breathing-Circulation assessment is satisfactory, with his air entry and breathing being judged competent even from 10 metres away considering the flow, intensity and decibels of the cornucopia of the expletives coming out of the respiratory system.
The Mount Barnett roadhouse and cattle station is owned by the Kupungarri community. The Derby Aboriginal Health Service (DAHS) operates the nursing station within the community (about 100 people, 20 houses, a school, and 300 km East of Derby). We found one of the wonderful, long time serving resident nurses. She lends us the nursing post’s 4x4 Landcruiser and a stretcher to retrieve Mark. Small logistics problem: the stretcher did not fit in the back of the car. Nevermind! Got Mark out of his fuel-soaked jacket, and supported him to the back, leg strapped and wedged between whatever straight implement we could find.
Werner went with him while Colin and I returned with Mark’s bike to the camp, then regrouped at the nursing post. When back, we found a smiling Mark with his leg now in cast, loaded with painkillers and fluids, smiling, and looking in better spirits although we knew fair well that his mind was far from being happy with the situation. His two-years of waiting, one year of planning trip finished abruptly on day one of the track trip!
Two hours later, close to sundown and with the RFDS ETA of 30 minutes, we find ourselves performing duties which we have never thought of doing. My job, for example, was to shoo cows and kangaroos off the landing strip and then light up 2 fires to signal where the strip was ending… The RFDS fixed-wing turbo-prop plane arrives, manoeuvres and comes to a halt some 40 m away from us. The plane cannot come closer to us, and the ‘ambulance’ cannot approach the loading belt in case one mistakes one’s car pedals and damages the plane…Colin and Werner need to push the wheeled trolley from the Landcruiser through the bush with a 6ft 3” Mark hanging on for dear life… Ah well! With a deluge of last photos taken, and a long litany of farewells, good wishes for speedy recovery and promises to u
look after his bike and gear, the turboprop door is closed, and the plane departs.
Still not quite understanding how it happened, next day we get back to the crash site to re-examine Mark’s bike tracks and piece together the sequence of events. None of us three had made any mental note about that particular corner, the amount of sand was not something that we would have written home about (except that now we have!), the bend was not a surprise, there was no shade, no rocks, no ruts, no stray animals… The only thing we could think of was that Mark’s
mind was not in the right place at the time. Straight from work to holiday-adventure-travel mode, a long day’s ride in full sun, a less than ideal previous night sleep in a noisy Derby campsite, the first day on track / sand / bull dust / corrugations, maybe too little hydration, the promise of a final short ride to the campsite and, what I think tipped things over, was the recent discovery of the bike mechanical
problem. Knowing Mark from previous trips, there is no way that he was not deeply preoccupied by this last discovery. The corner might not have come as a surprise to him, but very likely the sand
Top left: The obligatory iconic photo demonstrating we did it, and still dry.
Above: One of the many crossings on the way to El Questro.
Below: On the way to Emma Gorge. Even the meerkats asked to stop to take in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges.
did, and, judging by the tracks left in sand, he tried to over correct, and when the rear tyre bit the newly found hard packed dirt, threw him snake-like forward. He lost balance, then control, and ended up pinned under the bike. It could have happened to any of us! Lack of heat acclimatisation and adequate hydration during strenuous and prolonged physical activities, rapid changes in circumstances, the sight of the near-by arrival goal posts, and a premature relaxation just before reaching them are all contributing to the mental and physical fatigue in difficult and hostile environments. Our preparations comprised everything we could have thought of, with enough self-sufficiency and redundancy for 4 days, we are all seasoned bike riders, with Mark having been around the world on his previous bike! Personal physical and
mental endurance is … personal but affects the entire team.
After Mark’s RFDS evacuation that evening, our mood took a big dip and the usual evening banter was cut very short. The anti-climax of the day was truly sobering and certainly dented our spirits for the rest of the day and has come to be felt duirng the entire trip for this was not what we have planned for, had in mind, and expected it to be. Our thoughts were obviously with him and his journey to and through surgery, with the ‘repatriation’ of his bike and belongings (his insurance company was ‘not interested’ since his bike was still rideable and not significantly damaged!), the changes required to our journey plans, shared equipment, convoy rules etc. We decided not to ride on until all that was on our minds was sorted out so that we can concentrate only on the corrugations ahead. On the ‘other’
Left: The long road between the van and the aircraft. Small trolley wheels are not made for bush tracks!
Below left: A thumbs up before RFDS departure from Mt. Barnett.
Top right: Kupungarri Community Health Centre: Heart Foundation Australia poster. Below & below right: Due to the nature of the fracture, Mark was initially airlifted to Derby, then Broome and finally Perth. He was operated a week later and made a full recovery.
side of the Gibb River
It took 2 days to find the 3 companies which would daisy-chain transport his bike to Perth (nobody would take it another 200km to his home in Busselton), see his bike on the trailer and wave it good-bye with the obligatory photo sent to Mark as promised proof. Returning the Nursing Post’s 4x4 to its owners, we thanked them again for their help, mounted our bikes, and left Mount Barnett towards the East.
Mark does have self-healing powers, albeit not the Wolverineinstantaneous type. But there is a deeper question - are the titanium plates and bolts warmly buttressing his tibia enough? Our collective guess is ‘no’, because ‘something’ was lost on that track, and the only way to get it back, and fully heal, is to get back up there, and finish the journey as it was always meant to be.
Note: All photos are published with consent.
This is the pedestrian Bridge of Peace in the center of the capital city of Tbilisi.
Adventures of Apache in Caucasia
Riding an Indian brand motorcycle that is completely made in India around the world has a special sense of pride and accomplishment in it. We embark on a journey with the TVS Apache RR310 that will lead us to our 65th (Georgia) and 66th (Armenia) countries on motorcycles. u
Photos, text and rider : Sunny ‘MotoGrapher’
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Caucasia is majorly referred to as the trinity of countries of Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia. With a bit of Southern Russia thrown in, but that’s a separate beast altogether, if you get what I mean. For a long time I was eyeing this region in a bid to ride the whole world, a few countries at a time ever since doing my first country of India in 2006 and my first out of India in 2007, Australia.
Since COVID, this ‘conquest’ has slowed down considerably, with my last new country being Iceland in 2022. That was an unforgettable experience. You can download the digital version of the October November 2022 issue of the xBhp print magazine from Magzster if you missed the hard copy.
My 65th country was destined to be Georgia. It is mildly irritating that the USA state of Georgia crops up more than the country itself if you do not specify it explicitly, I guess that is what marketing does and we all know how good the USA is (was) at that. Just be aware of the fact to save a bit of time and embarrassment should you book hotels and flights or even research roads to ride.
Most of the countries that I have done so far have been on large capacity motorcycles, but since 2019 that has been changing a bit, especially when the manufacturing and buying power has been shifting towards the Indian market. Not only mid segment (400CC) bikes are more relatable but it is a matter of pride to be able to ride an Indian motorcycle out of the home turf.
TVS has been a company in the forefront of racing in India. It has not only been regularly investing in racing but has had a substantial contribution as much more than a catalyst to embedding the racing culture in at least one generation and it continues to do so.
Above: Seen here is yours truly, read to ride with the TVS Apache RR310 from the TVS Georgia service center and showroom in Tbilisi.
Left: Rynox riding base layers, custom wrapped AGV AX9 helmet and custom wrapped Point65sweden Boblebee backpack.
But like they say, Race on Sunday, Sell on Monday - this philosophy cannot be more true than with TVS especially with the Apache series that has been a great success with the youth of India ever since it was launched in 2006. The flagship of the Apache series today is the RTR 310 with a plethora of electronics but much before that the Apache RR310 took our breath away with its supersport styling, great handling and punchy enough motor. And most importantly affordability and serious VFM.
TVS has a great distributor and a loyal
Above left: This is Levan from TVS Georgia driving me around in a Dodge Charger in Tiblisi. Georgians really love their cars!
Above right: Levan with the TVS Apache RTR 200 at Mtatsminda park.
Below: This is the Mother of Georgia Monument in Tibilisi. In her left hand she has a bowl of wine for her friends and the sword is for her enemies! This is entirely made of Aluminium and rises 20 meters high.
fan base in Georgia. The Apache series is seen as a very capable motorcycle there (and rightly so). Georgia is a relatively new country as far as motorcycling culture is concerned. You won’t find too many motorcycles for leisure running around. Much like India, unless it is a weekend and you go the routes where the main hangout cafes are. But of course the general traffic is much lesser in Georgia as compared to India.
Cars are very popular in Georgia. As a petrolhead you are expected to drive a car rather than a motorcycle. In fact in the capital of Tblisi (Bi-li-si) you will get a hint of the craze they have for nice cars, especially G Wagons. It is no surprise since Georgia was part of the USSR from around 1920 till 1991 when it seceded. The cars here are driven fast and with a fervor that you only sometimes see in movies. Drifting while taking turns, the wheel spins off a red light and zooming past just in time to avoid a redlight. Heck even driving on pedestrian pavements to bypass traffic by a G wagon! All this and more was my introduction to why big cities and Georgia in general is considered to be an ‘unsafe’ and wild west for motorcyclists. The cars just don’t expect two wheelers on the road. Not until long ago did a lot of delivery guys on scooters kept crashing because of cars, only very recently car drivers have become somewhat aware of the species on two wheels. And that brings to another fact that two wheeler insurance, especially big bikes, including RR 310 is extremely expensive in Georgia, and that is why most do not bother to take it.
Also, believe you may, TVS Ntorq is one of the hottest selling scooters both for deliveries and enthusiasts in Georgia!
Ride Preparations
Route : This is the most important part of any ride. In all of my rides I start with the budget in hand that dictates the number of days I can invest in a country. Of course, it also depends on the size of the country. Australia has been my biggest one so far, followed by the USA. My longest single continuous ride has been from Delhi to Singapore (and Sri Lanka ). In comparison Georgia and Armenia are tiny. I start by identifying the capitals then category two cities and then the points like highest mountain and ‘best roads’. Also, unique buildings and sights to see in a country.
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When plotted on a map it will show you basic route to follow
While making the route I had provisioned the possibility that you will be denied entry into Azerbaijan due to the closed borders as stated above. Also I wasn’t 100% sure of how easy entry into Armenia would be from Georgia. Then there are a few regions to be avoided like South Ossetia which is internationally recognised as part of Georgia, but is a separatist state occupied by Russia. And that is one of the reasons why Google Maps will go around this seemingly perfectly normal looking area leaving you in bewilderment unless you Google it up.
I will give a route map at the end.
Visas: Georgia is a visa on arrival at the airport if you have a valid US visa. In fact, they just stamped their passport and it did not cost any money. It was the fastest ever immigration into a country. And the cheapest. I guess they are really pro USA for obvious reasons.
I applied for an Azerbaijan e-visa which cost me 26 USD and it came in 2 working days. (evisa.gov.az/en/).
The Armenia e-visa cost me 7.5 USD and it also came in 2 working days. (evisa.mfa.am).
It is a good idea to get a prior e-visa for
any country that you aim to cross via a land border, even if it has a clause that you will get a visa on arrival basis on a valid visa of another country (like USA) that you may have. I found this out on my ride, and was thankful for my decision.
Money: Last year Iceland was a surprise. I did all of it without using any cash at all, anywhere. However, it is mandatory for you to carry cash in Georgia and Armenia. Once you are in the countryside sometimes even the fuel stations won’t accept cash. And definitely not the smaller food joints that you may chance on in the countryside.
Luggage: I took Rynox Nomad saddlebags which are good for bikes with an upswept exhaust like the Apache RR310. The Navigator tank bag is the appropriate size with 12 L and 15L (expanded). It is particularly good for non-magnetic tanks with a mounting harness that stays on the bike making it extremely convenient to fill fuel or to take the bag as a backpack.
Above & right: The Chronicles of Georgia overlooking the Tbilisi Sea. In the inset you can see some parts from inside the Chronicles. Bottom left: The Orbeliani bathhouse.
With Location Share+, you can automatically share your location and breadcrumb trail on a map with up to 5 contacts. You can choose to send these updates at regular intervals ranging from every 6 minutes to 4 hours.
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My backpack was from Point 65 Sweden Boblbee range which also doubles up as a certified back protector and is also weatherproof.
Creator Equipment: I have been using an Acer Swift 5 laptop since last year. It debuted on my Iceland ride and ever since I have been a fan of this powerful 1 KG thin laptop with touch screen and a great battery life. A GoPro 11 helmet setup and an Insta 360 X3 with a Canon R5 with a versatile 24-240mm lens completed the setup. An iPhone 14 Pro Max was the chosen device for shooting off the bike most of the time without the need for a gimbal (thanks to the cinematic mode). A cheap bluetooth remote control helped me click selfies with the bike using the phone mounted on the flexpod. Two 20000 MaH power banks were also taken with a 65W Baseus GaN charger, a multiplug powerstrip and a travel adaptor.
And how can I forget the DJI Mini 3 Pro. Just remember to check in your drone in a hard case and keep the batteries and remote in the carry on luggage.
Riding Gear: I took a Dainese Antarctica suit that is water resistant, with an AGV AX9 helmet with Dainese Dyno Pro D1 shoes which are not waterproof so I used the Rynox H2GO EVO waterproof socks. Underneath I wore Rynox Vapour Pro base layers.
The Bike: I got the bike from TVS Georgia, however you can rent a bike in most countries. For Georgia I got the original bike documents and a power of attorney using which I could cross over the border to Armenia. So check with the bike rental companies before you make plans to cross any borders anywhere else in the world.
Let us start with Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia.
After setting up the Apache RR310 at the TVS Georgia workshop where looking familiar two wheelers and riding gear was a proud feeling I set out to discover a bit of the capital city. I was accompanied by Levan from TVS Georgia who was riding an Apache 200.
It is Hot at the end of August in Tbilisi. Temperatures of around 35 degrees are not uncommon and it can get very
Left: En route the mountain town of Dilijan in Armenia.
uncomfortable in the city.
We started with Chronicles of Georgia that comprises 16 pillars of height averaging 30 meters each. They record the history of Georgia and are still not complete.
The Tbilisi Sea is actually a manmade reservoir to supply Tbilisi with water but also serves as a recreational area.
Mtatsminda Park is a hilltop where you can get amazing views of Tbilisi and it generally has much lesser temperature than the city down below.
Georgia is actually considered to be the oldest wine making country in the world, dating back to 8000 years, and despite that I did not have even a single glass of wine here!
You can also spot a lot of unique modern architecture like the Bridge of Peace which is a bow shaped pedestrian bridge over the Kura River.
Aside from this a visit to see the ‘baths’ is mandatory. In fact Tbilisi literally means the place of warmth, and this is derived from the fact that the city was founded because of the discovery of numerous sulphuric hot springs.
Next day I decided to head to the Georgia-Azerbaijan border (Red Bridge Customs Post) that is just 60 kms from the center of Tbilisi and a 1 hour ride.
As expected I was turned back from the border, but the best part about this was that I had a backup plan of going to the Georgia - Armenia border (Sadakhlo) which was just 40 kms away!
The roads are generally well maintained though some potholes and single lane roads demand more attention than usual, especially while nearing the borders. By this time I was getting used to the dynamics of RR310 with the two saddle bags and a tail bag (that was unplanned and added at the last moment due to a lot of luggage).
While crossing over to Armenia from Sadakhlo, first I had to get export documents prepared at the Georgian side which was made possible with the power of attorney I had for the bike attached with my passport. After that I emigrated and crossed over the brief no man’s land to the Armenia immigration where they checked my bike documents, my passport and the e-visa. Overall the whole process took around 1 hour. After crossing over to
the Armenia side you have to immediately get insurance for the bike that costs a few USD to be eligible to ride in Armenia. Here I also got a local SIM card, but I always get international roaming on my Indian SIM card that works in most countries.
From the border I rode the Apache RR310 down south into Armenia until the third largest city of Armenia, Vanadzor before ending the day in Dilijan, which is also referred to as Armenian Switzerland. If you land up here on the weekend then expect a crowd from Yerevan, the capital of Armenia and its associated traffic.
There are a lot of forests (around 34,000 hectares) around here as part of the Dilijan National Park. I also visited the 13th century Haghartsin Monastery near Dilijan the next day. This was the first taste I had of riding the Apache RR310 in the mountains saddled with stuff to the hilt. And despite that the riding dynamics were good. I use a lot of engine braking in the mountains and usually start riding hard when I get comfortable. With a 310 CC motorcycle that is as good a handler as this and not an overwhelming amount of power I think I enjoyed a lot more compared to 1000CC superbikes that I have often ridden in the mountains.
After Dilijan I decided to go to Lake Sevan, which is the largest body of water
in the Caucasian region and one of the highest and largest freshwater lakes in Eurasia at 1900 meters above sea level, it makes up for around 1/6th of the total area of the country of Armenia! It is extremely beautiful and you can find a lot of resorts along its long shoreline and interesting things like abandoned buildings and colorful fishing boats.
From the Haghartsan Monastery I rode a bit more through the mountains to the town of Chambarak and cut south to the village of Shorza on Lake Sevan. Then I followed the road hugging the shoreline towards north west via Drakhtik beach
Below
Top & above: Some landscapes en route Vanadzor in Armenia.
left & below: The Haghartsin Monastery near Dilijan, Armenia.
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down to Sevanavank Monastery before climbing onto the M$ motorway to Yerevan, the capital of Armenia!
After Dilijan I decided to go to Lake Sevan, which is the largest body of water in the Caucasian region and one of the highest and largest freshwater lakes in Eurasia at 1900 meters above sea level, it makes up for around 1/6th of the total area of the country of Armenia! It is extremely beautiful and you can find a
lot of resorts along its long shoreline and interesting things like abandoned buildings and colorful fishing boats. From the Haghartsan Monastery I rode a bit more through the mountains to the town of Chambarak and cut south to the village of Shorza on Lake Sevan. Then I followed the road hugging the shoreline towards the north west via Drakhtik beach down to Sevanavank Monastery before climbing onto the M$ motorway to Yerevan, the capital of Armenia!
The capital city of Yerevan is one of the
oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It has a long and rich history, however you won’t find yourself overwhelmed when trying to cover it in a day like I did. Of course you can spend a lot of time visiting a lot of nooks and crannies but if you have just one day then this is where I went. There are a lot of hotels. But as always I call up to ask if there is a secure parking spot for a motorcycle and then proceed to booking it using an app or just land there in case I can afford some time to explore a few hotels in a vicinity. Yerevan was also hot, just like Tbilisi, it is easy enough to navigate using two wheelers as I could just lane filter and park freely on pavements. I went to the Cafesjian Center for the Arts which has
Above & below: Lake Sevan
Right: Chiesa Church in Ttujur Village, Armenia en route Lake Sevan. Far right: Make sure you have cash as a lot of places wont accept your international credit card or debit cards. Fortunately I found ATMs whenever I needed them.
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a lot of street art with a giant cascade of 572 stairs ascending 302 meters. It is a place where people just hang out in general as well. This was followed by Republic Square and the Armenian National Opera. You can also explore a bit of Swan Lake that has some sculptures. After this a ride through the ultra narrow lanes of the Kond Graffiti Area in the Kond Historic District, which is the oldest place in Yerevan and dotted with murals. It is surreal to ride through it, try and not take a heavy bike or a bike with panniers through this.
After lunch, evening is the time where you definitely would want to be at Mother Armenia Monument in Victory Park. It has some military vehicles that you can take a motorcycle upto and shoot photos. It is also a little elevated than the rest of the city so you can get a great view, especially at sunset. It is a great place to be and end your day in Yerevan!
A special mention must be made about the fact that Armenia was the first country in the world to adopt Christianity as a state religion in 301 AD! And that is also
why you can see the oldest cathedral in the world : Etchmiadzin Cathedral, built in the early fourth century, I visited this the next day while going towards the town of Gyumri in Armenia.
The ride from Yerevan to Gyumri had various landscapes. You can start from Yerevan towards Garni Gorge where you will get some amazing views and hair pin bends. After this the Azat reservoir is a very beautiful and peaceful place to go before you head back on the busy roads.
You can also see Mount Ararat on the way on a clear day. It is the tallest peak in Turkey and Armenian Highlands (16,000 feet above sea level ) and is also visible from Yerevan on a clear day! This is a sacred mountain to Armenians even though technically it is in Turkey.
After Azat Reservoir you can visit the Etchmiadzin Cathedral that I mentioned previously.
The M1 motorway is under construction in some places but later on it gives way to some fantastic tarmac that can rival some of the best constructed roads in the world. I went full gas on this for many kilometers
Bottom
and with very less traffic.
Gyumri is the second largest city in Armenia. One peculiar thing about architecture in this city is the use of black and red tuff in making the buildings, which gives it a very different and many times an eerie look.
From Gyumri I decided to ride over back to Georgia, but from another border this time. The Bavra border is less than an hour away from Gyumri and once I crossed over it was a smooth ride to Lake Parvani, one of the most beautiful places in Georgia probably. It is a high altitude lake at 680 feet above sea level. After riding around here a bit I traced a bit back to the village of Ninotsminda and rode on the E691 road.
The E691 road is beautiful with it running
Above: The capital city of Yerevan. Below: Military Vehicles at Victory Park.
Right: The amaz-ing hair pin bends in Garni Gorge. Far right: The M1 motorway has fantastic tarmac that can rival some of the best constructed roads in the world.
right: Lake Parvani.
parallel to the Paravani river a lot of times. I also saw the Khertvisi Fortress which is very beautiful and intriguingly perched on top of a hill at the confluence of two rivers, Parvani and Kura River. Interestingly the Kura river flows all the way to Tbilisi and through the center of the capital city as well! In fact it is 1500 kms long starting in Turkey and finishing in southern Georgia. After Akhaltsikhe I started riding towards Batumi, which is the second largest city in Georgia. It is also referred to as the Las Vegas of the Black Sea. The ride day from Akhaltsikhe to Batumi was one of the most horrible in my entire life. There was an unbelievable amount of car traffic. And only cars. Coupled with a lot of under construction roads, single carriageways and heat. A true hell for any motorcyclist! But since I was on a two wheeler I was able to filter, ride on the shoulders, something that the cars were not able to do. I could not believe that so much traffic could exist in a country like Georgia. But then after knowing that Batumi is a party city, it all made sense over a weekend. But this much traffic throughout my ride was unexpected and unbelievable ! The buildings and general vibe of Batumi matches that of Gold Coast in Australia or Las Vegas in the USA. However it is an important slice of Georgia and if you want to get some cool urban shots and just hang out, this is the place for you. Moreover it sort of comes on the way to the Svaneti region of Georgia, which is absolutely beautiful and a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Batumi.
Batumi to Mestia is 260 kms and is a u
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delight to ride through. Mestia is a small town located in the Svaneti mountain region and is also an important tourism center, especially for mountaineering. The road to Mestia is also very beautiful and you will find a lot of great landscapes to photgraph.
A wooden bridge over the Patara Enguri river en route Mestia. Lot of such small interesting things can be found as you ride to Mestia and beyond. The more time you have, the more you can explore. If you are my type of person that enjoys extreme solitude and isolation then this day is for you. From Mestia I rode to the
village of Ushguli, which is the highest continuously inhabited village in Europe and Caucasia. Mestia to Ushguli is only 46kms but it will take you around one and a half hours thanks to the terrain, especially if you are on a road bike. But that is the beauty of this place. The roads are bad in technical terms but that is how we enjoy it in these regions. It adds to the isolation and inaccessibility of this region. Ushguli is located at 6900 feet and around 200 people live here. It is completely cut off from the rest of the world for six months in a year due to snow. It is famous for its watchtowers that
Top left: Batumi, which is the second largest city in Georgia.
Above: The E691 road is beautiful with it running parallel to the Paravani river.
Below: Overlooking the Patara Enguri river en route Mestia.
Below: The road from Ushguli to the town of Ambrolauri.
Top right: A wooden bridge over the Patara Enguri river.
were made between the 9th to 12th centuries. Interestingly the very towers that were built to ward off visitors are the main attraction! This place has a
surreal feel to it, almost supernatural.
The road from Ushguli to the town of Ambrolauri is 150kms but will take around 4 hours. The first 40 odd kilometres from Ushguli will test you and your bike to the limit, especially if you are on a road bike. But the scenery is amazing and out of the world. After that it is smooth sailing with some amazing corners and tarmac all the way to Ambrolauri.
My last leg of the Caucasia ride involved me riding from Ambrolauri to Stepantsminda and then to Gergeti Trinity Church which is very near the Russian Border. On the same day I came back to Tbilisi for a total of 510 kms making it the longest ride day of my Caucasian ride.
The road from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda is part of the Georgia Military Highway. It is beautiful but is clogged with a lot of cars and truck traffic that might put a dent on your ride experience. A couple of sections are also one way due to construction and can cause wait times.
This is a one-way road back to Tbilisi unless you want it to cross over to Russia. But overall, it is worth doing once if you are here.
The TVS Apache RR310 performed exceedingly well throughout he ride. The 33 BHP might seem less on paper but the way it is put down with the bike is what matters. The engine is relatively more relaxed than at a compression ratio of a little less than 11. As a photographer I found the RR310 to be a delight, instantly elevating the photos to a new level, especially the one in red. Throughout the ride I used engine braking u
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quite a lot since Georgia has an insane amount of mountains and sinuous roads. Reaching Europe’s Highest village settlement and crossing borders on an Indian thoroughbred motorcycle. The only necessary modification I recommend is using the JEM handlebar riser and GPS bar mount that made a lot of difference in riding comfort for long distances and
bad roads. On the highways I touched 167 kmph with the panniers and all the luggage and it can cruise all day long at 120 kmph without getting stressed. In the end a special mention must be also made about the handling characteristics of the bike, I do some pretty hard riding in the mountains when it’s empty and Tarmac is good, and I never felt a lack of
control. The use of top-quality rubber and components also matters. The next obvious upgrade for the RR310 is adopting the suite of electronics in the recently launched RTR 310.
Overall, it was a surreal experience to ride in the Caucasian region, especially visiting the Europes highest village and the first Cathedral in the world.
Above left & above: Mestia to Ushguli is only 46 kms but it will take you around one and a half hours thanks to the terrain.
Left: The road from Ushguli to the town of Ambrolauri.
Below: Gergeti Trinity Church.
Two
The
Next Wave
Words: Andy ‘Strapz’ White
Geez, remember when we’d snear at ‘Jap-crap’. While they were usually more reliable and cheaper than the Euro bikes, they didn’t seem to capture the essence of motorcycling. Maybe it’s that ‘Jap’ bikes of the early years didn’t have a history behind them. Maybe it was that they were built to achieve a somewhat more saleable ‘product’. Maybe we just had a WWll racist hangover.
What a few short years ago seemed as a tilt at the lucrative, small capacity (what the majority of the world rides, which needs to be third-world cheap) market, is starting to peek over the fence as a serious player of the future. Word is that they will be having a crack at Moto GP in the not too distant future.
How history repeats! China’s motorbicycling offering seems to improve monthly. Masters of the knock off, China has long purloined, parleyed or pur-
chased anything they’ve seen selling in the west. As with their neighbours, early offerings bordered on cheap and nasty. However, seemingly less conservative than the glacial Japanese, the Chinese seem willing and able to move in leaps and bounds.
We don’t need motorcycles like the majority of our northern neighbours. The West has long lost the utilitarian approach to motorcycling. What used to be a poor person’s transport became a poor person’s sportscar, eventually ending up a rich Western’s toy. Like the SUV, us, predominately white, rich (in the world scheme of things at least), aging, males, subscribe to the old adage ‘There’s no substitute for cubes’.
So, for a manufacturer of motorcycles, it needs to be worth the effort, likely to turn a profit. To turn a profit, they need a product that appeals, competes. Be that on price, functionality or style.
More likely, they have to tick off option: e) All of the above.
Apart from fuel range (which probably only matters in a minority of marketsours) Chinese motorcycles are ticking boxes faster than other manufacturers would like. What are optional extras on Euro bikes are standard features on many Chinese offerings. Quick shifter, cruise control, switchable rear ABS and heated grips are bog standard on many. Finish quality steps up each new model and they offer a serious value for money proposition.
So far, most of the Adventure bikes we are seeing are in the ADV sub-category ‘Scrambler’ or ‘Tourer’, probably to offer to the rest of the world that rarely get them dirty. I’ve ridden a few of them now and they are showing up the established names in many areas of the score card… And price, well, there’s a lot of internal bang for buck in ‘em.
Korean brand Hoysung seems to have come and gone. Was it because they couldn’t or wouldn’t push through the 650cc ceiling? Do the Chinese need to push through the litre threshold? Will Chinese bikes hold their value? How will they last? Will they rust, detonate or deteriorate over time as a result of input cost control? Will motorcycle collectors in decades to come drool over a Chinese made bike? Will they produce the Lion’s share of bikes in the future?
Change is as inevitable as sunset. Most of us won’t finding out where it all ends up. History and time are of course, intertwined. All we can do is ride ‘em and smile.
And say... Xie Xie.
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