Adventure Rider Issue #35

Photos: Alessio Barbanti, R. Schedl

It’s we what do

Tom Foster - Editor

here’s a subtlety to bike testing that never gets discussed. I never stop hearing about how lucky I am to be flying all over the world at someone else’s expense, riding new bikes and, supposedly, being offered all kinds of enticements by bike manufacturers to say good things about their products.

TLeaving to one side the reality of economy-class international travel and the other challenges of that scenario, there’s a scary and oppressive obligation to get it right.

Think about it.

Last issue it was the KTM 790 Adventure, the BMW 1250GS and the Triumph Scrambler.

At each of those bike releases there

would’ve been somewhere between 10 and 20 journalists riding the bikes to offer their opinions to a loyal following (if they didn’t have a loyal following of some magnitude, they wouldn’t be there. These things are measured very closely these days).

So I pull on my riding gear, climb on the bike and start work.

At the end of the session, which might be a couple of days or might be a week, I trundle back to my desk and start writing. I include as much fact and relevant opinion as room allows, and information I believe the readers of Adventure Rider Magazine want to see. I believe readers of this magazine want to know what sort of engine and mechanicals make up the bike, and

I believe they want to know what it feels like to ride.

So I write that.

But what if I write an opinion on a bike saying it’s the best thing ever, and then find other journalists from the same model release say it’s a complete bag of poo that should never have been built in the first place?

I don’t have the great race resumés of some of the Aussie regulars. There are couple of guys with world championships and a few with very big reputations. What if my opinions don’t agree with theirs?

“As much as the bikes live and die on the reviews, so do the reviewers.”

Image: Toby Price

I’d be left looking like a complete goose. It’s worse on an international launch. It’s not unusual, especially in Europe, to find a MotoGP or SBK rider or two in the bunch, world-rated off-roaders are as common as muck, and at the KTM 790 launch in Morocco last issue I was a little embarrassed at having never competed in a Dakar. It seemed like everyone else there had.

You might think, ‘Just talk to the others and ask them what they reckon.’ That wouldn’t be a bad idea, but of course the journos, while they get on well enough, aren’t keen to give away what they all assume is their keen insight.

So there’s considerable pressure to come up with sensible, credible views on a bike. Adding to the pressure is those views possibly not aligning with personal choices. A bike can be a fantastic proposition but still not be suited to the reviewer’s personal riding style or, even more so, fit the bill for what they personally want from a bike. Flawed opinions will see the reviewer unemployed in fairly short order. What should you readers take from all that?

There’s lots of possibilities, but one in particular has stayed with me since I started writing bike tests over two decades ago: do the majority of readers ride like a MotoGP rider or a world champion? Or do they ride more like someone who relies on a love of bikes and riding far more than worldclass talent? And being a gifted rider doesn’t necessarily make for someone who’s good at sharing information and ideas.

As much as the bikes live and die on the reviews, so do the reviewers.

BMW Motorrad

Adventure Rider Magazine is published bi-monthly by Mayne Media Group Pty Ltd

Publisher Kurt Quambusch

Editor Tom Foster tom@maynemedia.com.au

Group Sales Manager Mitch Newell mitch@maynemedia.com.au

Phone: (02) 9452 4517

Mobile: 0402 202 870

Production Arianna Lucini arianna@maynemedia.com.au

Design Danny Bourke art@maynemedia.com.au

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Following Dakar

In issue #33 we watched Toby Richardson and his father drop everything and bolt to Peru to tag along watching Dakar. They left in a hurry. Toby ties up this story this issue.

Words and images: Toby Richardson u

Main: The sun bounced off Peru’s seemingly boundless sea of dunes, exposing every shade of orange imaginable. Insert: Every day chasing the Dakar was a game of catch up. It’s difficult to find out where the route is going and be in time to see the bikes.

Following Dakar

“SAfter seeing many locals almost wiped out, we’d left the bikes as far away from the track as possible, but one of the trucks had taken an entirely new line and we watched a rapidly approaching Kamaz running wild. Luckily, it just barely missed taking out four bikes, two HiLuxes and a group of stunned onlookers.

It was just another day of the Dakar.

Airports

If you read the article in issue #34 you’ll know just how much of a painstaking effort it was for us to simply get to the Dakar and hire bikes. Although that was no walk in the park, those issues weren’t nearly as frustrating as the constant obstacles we faced in Peru.

By the time we’d made it through security in Arequipa we’d been travelling for nearly four full days, and despite notifying the bank we’d be in Peru, it chose to flag and deactivate our cards when we tried to make a purchase inside the country. That meant we were unable to pay for the hire bikes, so we missed an entire day of riding as the Dakar start loomed closer and closer.

After sorting the issues with the bank

Top: Living the dream. Author Toby (right) and father Andy.

Above right: Following Dakar meant travelling the length of Peru.

Right: The hired KLRs waiting for the start of the adventure. u

Following Dakar

and paying for the bikes, we finally took off on the KLRs a few hours before sunset.

Under way

We hit the Pan Americana highway to head north towards Lima. It was two-anda-half days until the Dakar start and we had, at the very least, two-and-a-half days of riding to do. Traffic was hectic through the city and riding on the opposite side of the road was strange at first, but after finding our bearings the whole ordeal became normalised, although I still feel there’s a slight hint of diesel smoke and exhaust fumes on my breath almost a month later.

We got the first hint of just how incredible the riding was to become as we left Arequipa. There were huge cliffs and twisty, winding roads working their way up and over mountainsides. The raw, red dirt was vaguely reminiscent of the Pilbara and was the first of what would seem like 100 different landscapes.

With very little daylight left, we gave up looking for a road that might take us to a decent campsite and pointed the bikes off the highway onto a random patch of desert and had our first encounter with the fesh fesh. A millimetre-thick crust of sand concealed what seemed like a bottomless pit of talcum powder. Our only realistic option was to hold the throttle open and go wherever the bike took us, whether we liked it or not.

No matter what happens on fesh fesh, you can’t stop. If you do, you might end up stuck for quite a while.

After our escape, we had to camp, and our first campsite was under an incredible desert sunset. As we rested there, the sun bounced off Peru’s seemingly boundless sea of dunes, exposing every shade of orange imaginable.

Totally worn out, a good night’s sleep seemed inevitable. But we’d camped only a few kilometres away from the highway and sound travels amazingly over the desert.

The good night’s sleep didn’t happen.

At last

The pressure of having to get to Lima started to take away a lot of the fun. We fell further and further behind schedule the next day as the Pan Americana had us navigate through all sorts of dunes and even parts of the Andes. With the first day of Dakar being a ceremonial start and the competitors

Top: Chairs were the most divisive items when discussing packing. Above: Definitely overpacked, but that was due to carrying a large drone, eight cameras, full-sized tripod, 40 memory cards, two dozen batteries, external hard drives, a laptop, numerous battery chargers and an inverter. Below: The trucks ran wild.

Following Dakar

only doing a liaison stage, we decided we’d intercept the rally in Pisco for the first bivouac and the start of the first special.

We stopped in Nazca to find an internet connection, booked a hotel in Pisco, then did a 10-hour day on the highway to get there.

We had a lay day in Pisco, and it proved difficult to find any information on the Dakar route or the bivouac. We eventually decided we’d just ride along the highway and look for activity. We then hit the beach to sample the local beers.

Eventually our path led us to where we wanted to go. In fact, the next day it took only five minutes to get right into the thick of the event.

As we pulled up on the Pan Americana, competitor trucks, cars, side-by-sides and bikes blasted past. The entrance to the bivouac was unmistakable, and half of Pisco had shown up for the spectacle. We pushed through the bulldust, past

hundreds of parked cars and up through some dunes until we found a spectator point full of action.

Risky

It was from there, perched on top of a gargantuan dune, the well-organised appearance of the Dakar disintegrated. Trucks and cars screamed down dunes in all directions, some would even turn around and backtrack along the course to make sure they hit their GPS waypoint. As competitors crested the dunes, spectators ran in all over the place, as if they’d forgotten they were standing in the middle of the track for the world’s biggest desert race. Seeing that helped me understand why this event averages a handful of spectator deaths each year.

Rally round

Halfway through our first day we found ourselves bogged to the point of needing assistance.

But our timing was good. As the crowd dispersed, a DR650 went flying past at full noise, stopping only at the top of the dune. Ian, a typically ginger Irish bloke, helped by his American mate Taylor, also on a DR, helped drag us free. It turned out the two guys were camping nearby, and within 30 minutes we were all enjoying a meal and some beers at a local pop-up food shanty.

Later, four other riders from Ecuador showed up. Ian and Taylor had met the Ecuadorians competing in a rally there, and through their warm welcomes I had my first glimpse of how hospitable adventure riders can truly be. A night of camping with the guys soon turned into a week. u

Above: A truly authentic and wonderful experience. Below: The landscape was constantly changing. Below right: The bikes parked safely well away from the edge of the track.

Following Dakar

Plenty to see

After assuring the guys from Ecuador we’d go riding with them if we were ever there, they left on a six-day ride to get home. But our new friends Ian and Taylor stayed with us.

Everyday chasing the Dakar was a game of catch up, and we were lucky if we were ever in time to see the bikes. It’s difficult to find out where the route is going and the Dakar app only publishes one or two spectator points per day, and they’re usually near the bivouac. While I would’ve liked to have found more places away from the spectator zones to watch, it was still a lot of fun to be caught up in the atmosphere at the busy locations.

Race results

The magnificence of camping atop a hill at sunset was amplified by the fact the Andes were behind us, and in the far distance we could see the sun cross the horizon and set on the Pacific Ocean. The total solitude and peace of the desert was almost as humbling as the coastal sunsets, and it would’ve been easy to forget deadlines while trying to chase the race, but there were two things driving us: the desire to see the most gruelling of all races and to witness the sheer spectacle of the Dakar; and being there for a Toby Price victory we were hoping against hope would really happen.

Toby’s steady approach to getting through the event, coupled with his broken wrist, seeded just enough doubt to leave us wondering. Making his way through the ranks in the final days and being in first place with a lead of only one minute was gripping to say the least. I’d waited less anxiously for important medical test results.

Stuck

By the last day of the event we were no longer with the race. We’d followed it down the length of Peru and had already been to all the bivouac towns twice by the time the rest day arrived. Taylor and myself got quite sick on the rest day, so Dad and Ian travelled out from Arequipa to see the marathon-stage bivouac where only the bikes were present.

Ian travelled from there to Bolivia, but

Dad got sick on his way back to camp and returned in much worse condition than he’d left. The Dakar route left Arequipa after the rest day to travel back north, through all the same towns and bivouacs we’d already visited, finishing in Lima. If we’d followed it, we would’ve covered the same towns on the same stretches of highway for the fourth time. We would then have to go back south to return the bikes. Due to my illness I wasn’t very interested in doing 6000km across 1000km of busy, poorly constructed highway.

We parted ways with the Dakar and stayed in Cusco. We were set to leave on the last day of the race but couldn’t bring ourselves to get on the bikes, so we waited for the final results instead. It was far too early for a beer and we still had 600km to ride when the results came in, but it still became a bit of a party.

Best-laid plans

It had been an incredible trip, but something changed when Toby won the 2019 Dakar. It somehow felt more worthwhile knowing our favourite actually took the win.

With that said, in the end I was also a bit sad it was over. After having spent every dollar we could muster, and enormous amounts of time and effort on planning and undertaking the trip, it was over. Worse still, we had no plans for the first time in over six months.

We had thought to visit Macchu Pichu after the event, which is why we were in Cusco. As chance would have it, we wound up at the same hostel as Ian and Taylor and formed a plan over a few beers.

The plan was, the next morning we’d take a forest track for five hours of flat-out riding to Hydro Electrica.

Above: More of Peru’s stunning landscape. Right: Atacama desert camping.

From there we’d haul our sorry arses by foot up the mountain for three hours to Aguas Caliente. Then, the following morning we’d spend another two hours hiking to reach the one place I had always wanted to see most: Macchu Pichu. It was a great plan, only to be ruined by soup.

After a soup-and-pizza dinner – more common than you’d think in Peru – I woke up feeling not too flash, and Dad was a write-off, and we had to give up on our plans.

It could’ve been the most incredible ride of the trip, and Ian and Taylor went on their way as a duo once again.

Back to Arequipa

The last few days of riding were nice and scenic, but rather boring by comparison to what we’d already done. We rode through more hail storms along snowcapped mountains at 4600 metres, and then back into the warmth. That cycle repeated itself at least once each day.

We used one of our last remaining days on the bikes to get to Puno to see Lake Titicaca. It was pissing down by the time we got

there, so heavily we didn’t even bother seeing the world’s highest navigable lake.

Coming away from it all

It was absolutely a hell of a trip. It was different in every way to what we’d imagined, but a truly authentic and wonderful experience.

I have a whole new understanding of adventure riding and a bunch of new mates.

I’ve since learned Ian had a catastrophic engine failure which ended his trip one year and two continents early. He’s now back in Ireland planning his next move, though he’s still putting out stellar photography on his Instagram page @Ianhoranphotography.

The bastard even has a photo of himself and Toby Price at a fuel bowser, shot the very day after leaving us!

navigating Peru

Accommodation

The iOverlander app, used at Taylor’s recommendation, found us somewhere cheap and bike-friendly almost everywhere we went. Puno was the exception, and the few listings of hostels with parking were out of date.

The most frustration we had trying to find a place to stay was in a town called Espinar. We were travelling from Arequipa to Cusco, and the persistent bucketloads of ice landing on us put us off camping. When we got there, all the iOverlander listings were out of business or just not open. Even the waypoints for hotels on the GPS we’d hired took us somewhere no longer there.

Eventually we folded and wound up overpaying for the coldest room I had ever stayed in. We parked the bikes in a sort of garage that smelled of blood and bleach. The bikes were surrounded by open crates of raw chicken thighs that were left overnight and well into the next day.

I still can’t imagine how we got sick so often on this trip...

Maps and GPS

We used a hired GPS which got the job done, but was very inflexible for choosing route options, so we often turned to Dad’s phone, for which we’d bought a local SIM card. We compared options to Google Maps, which would be far more accurate than the GPS.

Once again, Ian and Taylor were a step ahead of us in their preparation. They had handlebar mounts for their phones and one of them led while using Google Maps for directions. Although I do prefer using basic tools and my own internal compass to ride at home, I’ll be doing it that way next time I’m riding overseas.

Above: Always on the lookout for a good spectator position.

Right: The photo of Ian and Toby Price after the group seperated.

Ian Horan photography

Following Dakar

the reFineD anD uPDateD gear list

Riding Gear

I recalled speaking to the staff at Adventure Specs about the gear I would need for this trip, and remember scoffing at the ridiculous variation in jackets, boots, and other equipment they expected me carry. I was an arse. All the gear they suggested helped me avoid frostbite, heatstroke, and any number of other temperature-related ails.

Here’s a rundown on the layering system from inside to outside:

8 Adv Spec underlayers, like a high-end compression garment

8 Over the under-layers, we could wear the Baltic Hybrid jacket if it was cold. These also look awesome, so doubled as my normal jacket off the bike, saving luggage space

8 The Adv Spec Mongolia mesh jacket was the main riding jacket and abrasionresistant layer. These are honestly the greatest jackets I have ever worn. They’re stupidly comfy, while being almost entirely mesh except for the shoulders and elbows

8 As soon as moisture became involved, we went to the Klim Goretex waterproof outerlayer. I was skeptical of the durability of these until my dad’s jacket came undone and got wrapped around the tyre, sent through the brake caliper and was still being pulled against the hot exhaust, but there were no tears or marks on the Goretex. I was bloody impressed

8 We also had Klim Goretex insulated gloves to swap out for the normal enduro style ones. I didn’t think we’d use them at all, but I think I would’ve had frostbite without them. The left glove even has a little rubber squeegee on the back of the thumb.

Camping and cooking gear

We had to go very budget on the camping gear, but we didn’t have anything compact and lightweight enough to take on the bikes. The rule seems to be that for every 20 per cent decrease in size or weight, the price doubles.

We spent $140 each on OZtrail tents instead of $600 each on MSR. The tents were actually the same weight and packed size, but much smaller when erected.

This didn’t really cause much of an issue, as the only reason I’d like something bigger would be so that I could fit my riding gear in at night. Fortunately, the Atacama doesn’t have too many dingoes. Instead of the MSR or Soto multi fuel/ unleaded stoves for $250 which were recommended by nearly everyone, we bought a second hand Coleman for $50. It worked fine and would cook quite quickly, but they’re a lot bulkier than the others. They don’t pack down small and ours is now sufficiently bent.

We spoke to Xander from Overlander in Midvale (Perth) who sells everything adventure-riding related. He spent about two hours walking us through every choice available to us. He warned us about getting Jetboils or other gas stoves, because the thread for some of them is different in South America. Pressurised canisters aren’t allowed on planes, so that could be a problem.

Beds? $20 from Kmart. I had my doubts about their durability, but they lasted. The attached pillow on mine gave up about halfway through, but I’d bought an extra from Kmart at the same time. This set me back a bank-breaking $2.00.

The Sea To Summit ones seem a lot

better, being comfier, smaller and lighter, but are also $60.

We got away with cheapish sleeping bags, comfort rated to zero degrees. They were a lot bigger and heavier than a comparable down sleeping bag, but they were also $500 cheaper, so that will be a big factor in a purchasing decision.

Finally, in the luxuries department, we took chairs with us.

Packing to the size of a shoe and weighing only 800gm, they were a bargain at $59 from BCF.

These were easily the most divisive items when discussing packing and/or bringing too much gear with other riders. I’d definitely overpacked, but that was due to taking a large drone, eight cameras, full-sized tripod, 40 memory cards, two dozen batteries, external hard drives, a laptop, numerous battery chargers and an inverter.

We also had a bucketload of tools.

Ian claimed he would never be able to justify room for a chair. He was able to find space for his own laptop, drone, DSLR camera and extra lenses though.

Taylor also thought it was an unnecessary item. Two days later, I had coffee from his AeroPress and hand-held coffee grinder, which he takes everywhere. Chair or coffee? The choice is yours.

If we were busy cooking, you’d have found Ian and Taylor in our chairs eating their dinner.

I’ve uploaded many more images from the trip to my Instagram account: @travellingminimalist where I’m also happy to discuss the trip with anyone who’d like to connect. I’ll also be posting details of when the film will be out.

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2019 Ténéré Tragics: High plains run

What’s a Ténéré devotee to do while twiddling his thumbs, waiting for a new 700? Get out and ride with the Ténéré Tragics, of course. Andrew ‘Clubby’ Clubb took a big drink from the fountain of the famed Ténéré spirit.

Words and images: Andrew Clubb

Main: The ninth Ténéré Tragics was a five-day, 2000km romp from Cessnock in the NSW Hunter Valley to Thredbo in the NSW Snowy Mountains.

Insert: The High Plains Run drew a sold-out pack of 80 riders.

Patience is a virtue, right? If you’re a Ténéré Tragic, patience is ingrained into your DNA. It’s been the best part of a decade since a new model Ténéré hit the showroom floor and Tragics have been going spare waiting for the much-hyped 700 to become a production reality. Plenty of Tragics will be at the head of the queue for the CP2-powered, twin-cylinder adventure bike when it arrives in Australia in December – woo-frickin’-hoo!

But the waiting has been painful, no two ways about it. At least we Tragics have been able to share the pain, getting together each March for the annual Ténéré Tragics run.

This year’s ninth annual festival of Ténéré goodness, dubbed the Ténéré Tragics High Plains Run, drew a sold-out pack of 80 riders for a five-day, 2000km romp from Cessnock in the NSW Hunter Valley to Thredbo in the NSW Snowy Mountains. And despite the wait for the seventh heaven of the new 700, everyone enjoyed a rip-roaring good time.

In at the deep end

It goes without saying the Tragics are a keen bunch. They’re brought together by the Ténéré spirit that can trace its origins back to 1983, when the first XT600ZL Ténéré was unveiled to the world. Based on Yamaha’s much modified XT550/600 Dakar Rally race bikes of the day, the fat-tanked Ténéré struck a chord with overland touring riders across the globe and tales of Ténéré travels are these days the stuff of legend.

No less than five Tragics lined up for this year’s High Plains Run aboard first-model ZLs, a newcomer to the ranks being Shane Johnston from central Queensland, who registered for the Run without actually having a Ténéré in his shed.

A few months out from the ride, with the assistance of Toowoomba Yamaha dealer Mark Counsell, Shane tracked down a very original ZL and it was love at first sight. “That’ll do me fine,” Shane pumped as he grabbed the red-and-white classic by the horns, created a perspex screen for wind protection, sorted out his luggage load, and then just went for it. The old banger might have rattled his bones and shaken every filling from his teeth, but there was no wiping the smile from Shane’s face all week long. That’s tragic.

Another Tragic virgin was Tony de Oliviera, who was talked into making his Tragics debut by his brother, Joe. But like Shane, Tony didn’t have a Ténéré either, so when an XTZ750 Super Ténéré popped up on Gumtree, Sydney-based Tony leapt on it – even though it was a 1000km away in Queensland.

With just one dirt ride on the 750 under his belt before fronting for the Tragics Run, Tony was left shaking his head at the end of day one in Bathurst and pondering, “What the hell have I done?!” And then when he ran out of brakes on day three, the thought of bailing out and heading for home came to the fore. A detour into Canberra for new brake pads, and more words of encouragement from his brother, had Tony back in the game and the sweet-sounding blue-and-purple twin thundered on all the way to the finish of the Run in Thredbo.

Nice job, Tragic.

The 100-per-centers

While Shane and Tony were among the dozen or more virgin Tragic starters this year, there were 10 riders who had ridden all nine Runs to date. These blokes are truly Tragic, many of whom have multiple Ténérés stashed in their man caves.

They’re blokes like Col Hayden from Dubbo, NSW, who has so many Ténérés in his fleet he’s threatening to bring them all to next year’s tenth anniversary and ride a different Ténéré on each day of the Run. Now that would be cool.

Dave Harrison from the NSW Blue Mountains, another 100-per-center, has Ténérés big and little, old and new. He rode a sweet-looking blue 3AJ 600 this year, leaving his 750 and 1200 Super Ts at home, much to the chagrin of one of his riding buddies, Lithgow Bike Stop Yamaha dealer Dave Wilson, another 100-percenter. For whatever reason, the 600 saw

Below: Dakar

more flats than a typical day at a Bob Jane T Mart and poor ol’ Wilso was Johnny-onthe-spot with the tyre levers to help with the tube swaps every time. There’s that Ténéré spirit – again.

Sweep rider Troy Mattson is another Tragic with a perfect scorecard of nine Tragics Runs. The Victorian rider, who loves stretching the throttle cable on his 1200 Super T, started out as ‘just’ a member of the Tragics pack. But in the second-ever Tragics Run – in southern NSW in 2012 – Troy leapt in at the deep end, literally, at a washed-away bridge near Dalgety and rode, pushed, carried and bulldogged dozens of Ténérés across the flooded section. It was a truly Tragic effort and Troy’s been a crew member ever since.

The stories behind the Ténérés

While every Tragic has their own story, the bikes have tales to tell as well.

Another first-time Tragic this year was Gary Benn, who works as a head technician for Aussie motocross legend Craig Dack’s CDR Yamaha Monster Energy MX team. Before that Gary was Yamaha’s international GP MX team boss in Europe, and in those years helped stage Yamaha Europe’s Spirit Of Adventure Ténéré rides in Africa, America and Australia when the XTZ750 Super Ténéré was new on the scene. Gary’s had a 750 in his shed at home in Victoria forever, and this year the planets aligned for him to make his debut Tragics outing. Gary’s 750 is more than a little special, being littered with factory parts from Yamaha’s Dakar Rally efforts many moons ago when he was based in Europe. And believe it or not, Gary’s bike is one of two Yamaha Australia supplied to Michael Goddard to race in the Australian Safari in the early 1990s. Yeah, the stories that bike could tell. South Australian Charlie Fearon

Top: A sunny day at Dark Corner.

Above: Lithgow Bike Stop Yamaha dealer Dave Wilson, a 100-per-center, and awarded the 2019 Truly Tragic gong for never ceasing to help out his Tragic brothers.

competitor Rod Faggotter (left) and Gary Benn, head technician for the Aussie CDR Yamaha Monster Energy MX team.

fronted on a tidy looking XT600Z 3AJ that he described as a ‘labour of love’ for the previous 12 months. The fruits of his labours looked ripe, nevertheless…until we discovered him in the main drag of Cessnock the day before the Run, looking perplexed at why the baby-blue beast wouldn’t fire into life. Uh-oh. Thankfully sweep rider Clive ‘The Professor’ Ward diagnosed loose battery terminals and the classic twin-headlighter was back to its best in no time.

Star-powered Tragics

Regular guests on the Tragics Run in recent years have included Yamaha dirtbike legend Stephen Gall and Aussie Yamaha factory Dakar Rally racer Rod Faggotter.

Gally kicked off proceedings for the High Plains Run with a half-day Yamaha bLU cRU adventure-riding skills session in Cessnock, which saw 23 Tragics grab the chance to learn from the master.

Meanwhile Rocket Rod jetted in from Longreach to join the Tragics for the final two days of the Run, and can you believe it? His first job was to act as ‘water boy’ for Gally and break out the tyre levers when the Tragic trainer copped a flat in the Brindabella Ranges.

From there the Yamaha duo enjoyed plain sailing to Cooma, where that afternoon they staged an exclusive Q&A session at the Alpine Hotel that had the Tragics on the edges of their seats.

When Gally and Rocket talk, the Tragics listen.

That’s a wrap

After four days that had seen the Tragics run the back of the Great Dividing Range from Cessnock to overnight stops in Bathurst, Goulburn, Tumut and Cooma, the fifth and final day to Thredbo was blessed with overnight rain that made conditions perfect in the morning.

While most Tragics expected to be

hitting The Barry Way and McKillops Bridge on the final day, bushfires in Victoria put paid to those plans. Instead, the Tragics spent day five dropping down off the ranges to near Bega on the NSW south coast for morning smoko at the timeless hamlet of Candelo. They then climbed back up through the forests to Bombala and across the vast Monaro High Plains to the finish in Thredbo: a 400km finale that ranked as Ténéré gold. And then it was on to the bar at the Thredbo Alpine Hotel, where the Ténéré spirit flowed free and long…and the wait for a mighty new Ténéré 700 continued – but at least now, finally, it’s so close the Tragics can taste it!

Top left: Shane Johnston from central Queensland registered without actually having a Ténéré, but tracked down a very original ZL in time for the event. Top right: Dave Harrison, from the NSW Blue Mountains, rode a sweet-looking blue 3AJ 600 this year, leaving his 750 and 1200 Super Ts at home. Below: Tony de Oliviera grabbed an XTZ750 Super Ténéré from Gumtree in time to join the Tragics.

reaD the story, see the movie

If you like the Ténéré Tragics story, get ready to see the Ténéré Tragics movie. Accomplished Aussie adventure-bike film maker Dave Darcy rode the event to film a docco on the Tragics and gain an insight into the renowned Ténéré spirit. Look out for Dave’s film on his ‘Motorcycle Adventure Dirtbike TV’ channel on YouTube.

hit the web

Got a Ténéré and keen to ride with the Tragics? Hit the web and check out www.teneretragics. com.au, or search Tenere Tragics on Facebook and Instagram for details of future Runs.

BMW F850G s A

For tighter trails and off-road tomfoolery, the 850s are excellent. For serious adventure riding which includes that type of terrain, the F850GSA is on our very short list of ‘best options’.

We gave a fairly in-depth view of the new F850GS and its engine in issue #33, but as a ring-in on the R1250GS release, BMW Motorrad chucked in an F850GSA. We took the bike for a day, and while we thought the 850GS was good, it seemed the Adventure model was made for us.

To recap the important points of the F850GS, it has an 853cc, parallel-twin, water-cooled motor with a 270-degree firing order. We felt the motor was big on ‘fun’ in the best possible way. Where the F800GS was precise and smooth and everything a 798cc twin should be, and we liked that, the 850 has a stack more character and was an absolute hoot to ride. BMW offered the F850GS as its ‘most off-road capable’ bike, and we agreed wholeheartedly. It’s a riot on dirt and trails while still

being a weapon on the road. How could it be better?

Hard core

The F850GS Adventure – the GSA – is everything we already loved about the 850, but, naturally enough, has a massive fuel range, firmer front end, superb lighting, a little more ground clearance, world-class electronics and the look and feel to send an adventure rider’s heart racing. As BMW itself says, the F850GSA is: ‘For people who think no destination is too far

and no distance too remote.’

The tank holds a healthy 23 litres, which on paper gives a range of somewhere around 500km, and 95 horsepower is serious mumbo. The bike weighs 244kg but doesn’t feel heavy to ride…and we admit to having to pick it up once and didn’t find the lift a struggle.

Each to his own

The range and variety in BMW’s new line-up is fairly staggering. From the GS through the Rally,

Images:

Rally X, Tour and on to the GSA, there’s so many OEM accessories and variations available for each model it’s hard to know how to pin down a particular model and set of accessories to suit a given rider or task. Why would anyone choose the GSA over the others?

For us the biggest single factor is the fuel range. The extra lighting and some of the other bits and pieces are available to be fitted to any of the other models, but that whopping tank, and the appropriately firmer front end mean serious hard-core adventure is within the rider’s reach.

The motor is everything we discovered on the other 850s. It’s a lot of fun to ride and very easy to live with. The modes allow setting up for just about any situation – our test bike had the dongle fitted, so the Enduro Pro setting was available –and even with a full tank handling is good and braking superb. Clutch and gearbox are as good as everything else on the bike, and in our opinion it even looks a little hornier than its stablemates.

But that’s just us. You might think differently. Whatever.

Bugger

There’s a stack of great options available in electronics, luggage and protection, and overall, we thought our prayers had been answered with the 850GSA. We were pounding through the bush, crossing rivers, scaling hills and living the dream.

Then BMW made us give it back.

Damn.

s P e C s bmw F850gsa

Web: www.bmw-motorrad.com.au

Recommended retail from:

$21,280 including GST, plus ORC.

Engine: Water-cooled, two-cylinder, four-stroke engine with four rocker-arm operated valves per cylinder, two overhead camshafts and dry sump lubrication

Capacity: 853cc

Bore x Stroke: 84mm x 77mm

Rated output: 70kW (95hp) at 8250rpm

Maximum torque: 92Nm at 6250rpm

Fuel consumption per 100km: At WTMC 4.1 litres

Fuel type: Unleaded, 95 RON (option 91 RON)

Transmission: Constant-mesh, six-speed

Clutch: Multiple-disc wet clutch (anti hopping), mechanically operated

Start: Electric

Tyres front, rear: 90/90 21, 150/70 R17

Front suspension: Upside-down Telescopic fork Ø43mm

Rear suspension: Cast aluminium dual swing arm, central WAD spring strut, spring preload hydraulically adjustable, rebound damping adjustable

Suspension travel front/rear: 230mm/215mm

Brake front: Dual-disc brakes with floating discs, front (Ø305 mm), double-piston, floating caliper

Brake rear: Single Ø265 mm disc, single-piston floating caliper

Wheels: Cross spoke wheels

Rims front/rear: 2.15 x 21/4.25 x 17

Wheelbase: 1593mm

Seat Height: 875mm (OE suspension lowering kit: 815mm, OE low seat: 835mm, OE comfort seat: 875mm, OA rallye seat: 890mm)

Usable tank volume: 23 litres

Unladen weight, road ready: 244kg

Jordi Viladoms

At 39, the Rallye Team Manager of the Red Bull/KTM Factory racing team has 10 Dakars to his credit as a rider and a wealth of racing experience. Adventure Rider Magazine sat with the mildly spoken Spaniard to find out a little more about the man Toby Price singled out as his mentor.

Image: Tom Foster u

JV: First of all I need to say thanks to Toby, because he never said this directly to me. It’s nice to hear. He was one of the guys that, from the beginning, came to my place in Spain. We were practicing the navigation and everything. And I had the feeling I put something of myself into his thinking. It’s good to know he felt it, too. AdvR: You have 10 Dakar finishes. That’s a pretty big effort. How did you get into Dakar racing in the first place?

JV: I was racing motocross, mainly in the Spanish championship, and I was doing well. But at the same time my father was pushing me for my studies. I was runner-up in the Spanish championship as a junior, but then I went to the university and did a degree as an electronics engineer. By then it was too late to do something in motocross because I was already 22 or 23.

But anyway, the deal with my father was, once I had my degree, I could do one year only training on motorcycles and see what happened.

I never went to work again as an electronics engineer.

The first year, 2004, I started to get good results in motocross and I finished

fourth in the Spanish championship. I was teammates with Garcia Rico, one of Spain’s best motocrossers. He finished second in the MX3 world championship.

“The deal with my father was, once I had my degree, I could do one year only training on motorcycles and see what happened. I never went to work again as an electronics engineer.”

In 2005 I rode as a professional rider on the Telefónica Movistar team and we shared a manager with the Repsol/KTM team. One of the Repsol/KTM riders, Jordi Durán, was injured in October and was not sure he would be able to ride Dakar in January 2006. At the last moment the team asked, ‘Do you want to come with the team to Dakar?’

I went, ‘Whoa!’ It was really the last minute.

Durán recovered well and the plan was to run a junior team with he and I, but then he was injured again, and his place was taken by Australian rider Andy Caldecott.

In December I went to Morocco for a week’s training, then I started the 2006 Dakar and I realised rallye was fitting much better with my mentality and my skills than motocross. I had good results from the beginning.

Andy was fatally injured during that event and it was a big shock for everybody. It was hard to lose my teammate in that way, and in my first Dakar.

AdvR: Have you always been with KTM?? JV: I did six years in the factory team with Marc Coma, then left KTM to go to Yamaha. In 2014 I came back to the KTM factory team and picked up second place. I did two more years with the factory team and when I decided to retire KTM offered for me to be the Sport Manager. At that time it was more or less necessary, because they were thinking about Coma to do the job, but suddenly Marc announced he was going to be the Race Director for the Dakar Rally itself. At that time there was Marc and myself in the team who were

Marcelo Maragni/Red Bull Content Pool

| Art. 6450 Touring jacket with clever details and over & under membrane.

H-E1 Adventure | Art. 7855 Flip-up helmet with sun visor – the multi-tool of helmets.

Torno II

GORE-TEX

experienced in rallies, and the rest of the guys had only a year’s experience. Toby was one of them, so was Matthias Walkner and Sam Sunderland.

So they asked me to try and pass on my knowledge to the younger generation, and it’s been a really, really good experience. I’ve enjoyed it a lot.

I guess if I’d started working with guys who had a lot of experience in rallies it could’ve been difficult. They might’ve thought they knew everything already. But with this team it’s been really nice, because they were fresh and didn’t have bad habits.

“ You go to the personal sponsors and promise them you’re really good and will finish in the top three or top five, and as soon as you sign all these contracts they say, ‘Okay. Now you need to do it.’ ”

AdvR: When you were a rider and coming up to an event, there must’ve been a great deal of stress. What’s the stress like now you’re the team manager?

JV: It’s a different kind of stress. I don’t know if I’m saying this correctly, but as a rider I think there was more pressure. As a manager there’s more stress.

As a rider you have the pressure to get the results. You know you’re in the factory team, and you know if you don’t get good results you’ll be out. But you go to the personal sponsors and promise them you’re really good and will finish in the top three or top five, and as soon as you sign all these contracts they say, ‘Okay. Now you need to do it.’

That means a lot of pressure. When I jumped from Sport Manager to Team Manager it’s even more stress. After so many wins, if we don’t win, for sure they will point to me. And when you’re team manager you have to take care of 40 people in the team, so it’s big numbers, big responsibility and big stress. We have eight riders, and we have four riders in a position to win the race…

u

JorDi vilaDoms

I was not expecting so much stress. The good thing is the team members have a lot of experience, so people are doing their jobs well without me directing them. And everyone in the team is doing a brilliant job.

AdvR: We all know the main riders: Walkner, Price, Sunderland and Sainz. Is it a happy group?

JV: Yes. They are really nice, and they respect each other a lot.

This is really important. If you compete, but you have respect, then everything is possible.

They can fight on the course, but as manager I try my best to keep everything calm. They behave nicely and joke at dinner, but the next day they fight hard against each other, and at the moment I’m happy because I know in some teams it’s not like this. They are not only good riders, they’re nice people.

AdvR: Right now the Red Bull/KTM team is incredibly strong. But the Yamaha guys are always threatening and the Honda guys are coming up fast. What will you do as manager to keep the team moving ahead?

JV: Of course, every time the other teams are closer, because at the end experience is important, and from every mistake people learn, so they are faster next time. But the thing is, for us, okay, we win, but we never relax. We will push in all things where it is possible to push. We try to

improve the bike every time, every test we bring new material. We train as much as possible with the riders with the navigation. We go to places like Abu Dhabi because the dunes there are similar to Peru. We really try all the time in all ways to push the maximum.

The year we lose the race we will say, ‘Okay. The other team won because they did better than us,’ but we will always arrive at the start knowing we’ve done our best and our 100 per cent. At the moment that’s working. We push a lot and we work a lot.

AdvR: We’ve seen the race set within a single country now, and that country changing year-to-year. Where is Dakar headed in the future?

JV: With the politics in all the different countries it’s really difficult. A race this big can’t stay in one place.

The situation in the world is like it is. We’re lucky the race is flexible and the main people stay the same. The crowds, the sponsors and the family of this circus have to find places for us to play and deserts to bring the show to the people. Saudi Arabia looks likely in the future.

Best job in the world

Cape York Motorcycle Adventures was looking for a new sweep rider. Adventure Rider Magazine put out the call to help find the right person. From nearly 40 applicants ready to drop everything and sign on as guide and sweep for one of Australia’s longest-running and most professional tour services, a short list of three were flown to Cairns and put through their paces. The aim was to find out who would get the Best Job In The World. The lucky rider? Read on and find out…

As the rain hammered on the roof of the Cape York Motorcycle Adventures’ (CYMCA) substantial workshop just north of Cairns the riders paid close attention.

Mostly they paid close attention to the dinner from the incredible spit roast the CYMCA folks had laid on to welcome the riders, but main man Roy Kunda continued on with his briefing anyway, seemingly happy with how things were going.

Adventure Rider Magazine wiped the delicious, fragrant grease from its chin and asked Roy to outline what it was he was

looking for in a sweep rider.

“Obviously a good sweep has to be able to handle themselves on a bike,” said one of Australia’s most experienced tour leaders, “but they don’t have to be a world champion. They’re here to guide people, assist them through any difficult sections and be helpful.

“The sweep doesn’t need to be a mechanic, but they certainly need to be willing to learn and to get their hands dirty,” he continued while we wondered if there was any ice cream.

“The mechanical side obviously includes dedrowning bikes, flat tyres and the usual things that

can happen on these types of rides. The DR-Zs are very reliable, but even for a mechanic, some of the things the sweep has to deal with would be new and unique to our situation. So we teach that.

“The same goes with the cooking side of it, and what to look for with riders who might be having

Above: River crossings are a big part of any ride in FNQ, and with rain leading up to this ride river currents were strong. The candidates, along with Graeme Blake, made it look easy.

Below: Every beach on a CYMCA ride seems to a be a pristine paradise, but Cape Flattery is right up there with the best in the world.

FEATURING TERRAIN-TESTED SUSPENSION, A SPORTY STANCE AND DUAL-PURPOSE TYRES, THE HIMALYAN IS BORN OUT OF DECADES OF RIDING EXPERIENCE IN SOME OF THE HARSHEST TERRAIN ON EARTH.

Granite Sleet Snow

best Job in the worlD

trouble. It’s important to be able to read the riders’ abilities.”

That sounded fair enough, and the three candidates all looked as though they fitted the bill.

Looks were all well and good, but how would they stand up to the deep-water crossings, the heat, the silt, and, in this case, the continuing rain.

Each was a given a brand-new DR-Z and the trial began.

A helping hand

There were a couple of ring-ins on this particular ride. Roy’s son, Jordan, grabbed his brand-new KTM 500EXC-F and joined the crew. Graeme Blake, an ex-CYMCA sweep rider who returns to ride for the pleasure of it whenever he can, loaded up with tools, spares and a big-bastard machete and jumped on a DR-Z to help out a bit. As the rain continued to fall the riders headed up the mountain road toward Kuranda, Black Mountain Road and Mount Molloy.

Unfortunately, the slippery wet clay on Black Mountain Road caught Jordy

unawares and flicked him off the KTM, putting an early end to his ride. The other riders, with Jordy’s plight in mind and therefore proceeding carefully, continued on to a sensational lunch before heading off to get their feet wet.

River crossings are a big part of any ride in FNQ, and with rain leading up to this ride river currents were strong, river banks were very soft and silty, and, much to everyone’s relief, conditions were entirely unsuitable for saltwater crocs…that’s what Roy said, anyway. He said it from standing high up on dry land and looking cautiously in both directions before signalling the others to start crossing.

Graeme’s help was awesome. He not only knew the tracks, he had boundless energy and seemed to thrive on wading out into fast-flowing deep water, getting swept downstream as he attempted to swim back, and then dragging himself up onto the bank and spluttering, “No worries. We’ll get across.”

Roy occasionally took a more conservative view. Not too often, but sometimes.

In any case, the three potential sweeps had plenty of opportunity to show they could cope, and all three did well.

The missing link

There were a couple of ‘mechanical issues’, the type of thing typical on any ride, u

Above: River banks were very soft and silty.

Below left: Jeremy Coatman, 26, from Hobart, didn’t have a lot to say most of the time. When asked what he was looking for in the job, the welder replied, “Adventure and customer satisfaction, I suppose. Giving people a good time.” Here he’s demonstrating his ‘croc-killer’ face.

Below middle: Richard ‘Buster’ East, 53, from the Gold Coast, is a motorcycle mechanic by trade. “People have a lot of fun and are nice to get along with when they’re enjoying themselves,” said Buster. “I enjoy helping people out. And riding is fun. That’s why we do it.” He felt the sweep’s job would use all his experience built-up over the years.

Below right: Geoff ‘Sully’ Sullivan, 49, a firefighter from Myrtleford in Victoria, was thrilled to be included in the final three. “This surely is one of the last parts of true Australia,” he told us. “I’m still pinching myself today that I’m here.”

KINETIC

KPA

which emerged and allowed the hopefuls to strut their stuff.

First was a worn chain joining link letting go on Graeme’s DR-Z. It was the only bike on the ride which wasn’t new. As everyone stood around contemplating the chain lying on the road about 60km south of Cooktown – the overnight stopover was The Lion’s Den – a bloke jumped out of the thick jungle which ran right up to the road’s edge and said, “I was wondering what the dogs were barking at.”

Nobody seemed in the least surprised to find a barefooted, shirtless person in such a place, and Graeme, as though it was the most natural thing in the world to say to a recently appeared bushman, asked if he had a joining link for a 520 chain.

As if!

But the bloke, being a DR-Z owner, thought he did, and went off…somewhere…to see if he could dig one up.

The rest of the group was sent on and was relaxing with a cold drink outside the pub when Graeme was towed in.

Fancy that Tarzan-looking bloke not having a 520 joining link, eh?

The next morning it was all hands on deck as bumbags were searched for a chain link that would get the bike into Cooktown. While that was going on, a cracked header pipe was removed, welded and replaced.

So that all went well.

By the time the ride headed out for the second day all candidates were looking well-suited to the job.

On the beaches

The second day’s ride included a run through historic Cooktown and then a squirt along some incredibly beautiful beaches. Sand didn’t present any problems to any of the riders, and there was time for some fishing, breaking a few oysters off the rocks for a snack, and some beachcombing. Roy’s found a lot of very interesting flotsam and jetsam over the years, and all these activities form part of every Cape York Motorcycle Adventures tour. Fishing is especially popular, and while Roy didn’t land any whoppers, he did keep intact his record

of never finishing emptyhanded.

The sweeps were encouraged to flick a lure around – once Graeme and Roy were sure the barra weren’t going to bite – and a very pleasant day finished with a run back to watch the sunset from Cooktown’s Grassy Hill and then pizzas back at The Lion’s Den.

And the winner is…

A late start on the final day had the crew making its way back along the Bloomfield Track and Cook Highway to CYMCA headquarters. Huge, industrial quantities of pizza and cold drinks were laid out for a celebratory, end-of-ride dinner and everyone nervously awaited Roy’s decision. Who would be the lucky rider who would spend the coming tour season riding through some of the world’s most beautiful and exotic terrain, fishing,

Top: There’s plenty of scenic, open riding between the challenges.

Below left: Some water crossings weren’t even rivers or creeks. They were just fricken big puddles that had no real reason to be there.

Below: Getting into the rivers could be hard work, never mind getting across and out again.

dodging crocs, eating like a king and, of course, being paid for it?

The envelope, please… Jeremy Coatman.

“It was a tough call,” said Roy. “All riders stepped up to the plate, but taking it all into consideration, Jeremy pulled forward”.

The young welder from Tassie will soon be living the good life, and Adventure Rider Magazine hopes he remembers the part we played in getting him the job next time we’re stuck on a river bank and ask him to ride the bike up for us.

Below: The Chosen One.

Top right: Even when the sun wasn’t beating down the humidity made a quick swim feel good. There’s lots of opportunities for goofing off on these rides, and this crew made the most of every one of them.

Below right: The end of the road. Sort of. It was the Cook Highway back into Cairns, but it marked the end of the ride.

Temujin Mongolian crossing

Mineral-rich Mongolia is awakening and the time is right to experience that magnificent vast and silent land as it is, rather than what it will be in the not-too-distant future. Michael Burton and Mid Life Adventures took a group to ride across the empire of Genghis Khan.

Words and images: Michael Burton u

Main: For those who made the effort, it was an adventure of a lifetime. Map: Across Mongolia, east to west.

The world has changed significantly since I started adventure riding nearly 22 years ago. But preparing for this trip across Mongolia and the experience gained would be exactly as it was when Genghis Khan ruled that nation. I had little doubt, if we were to make the same journey in 20 years, the difference would be that the showers would work and the toilet wouldn’t be a hole in the ground in the middle of the steppes…and we’d be riding electric bikes, not firebreathing KTMs and Huskies.

UN likely

Mongolia is on the move. The capital city, Ulaanbaatar, is starting to become a city of skyscrapers as the Chinese infiltrate from the east with treasury loads of Yuan to establish a foothold, just as they’re doing in many other nations.

Outside of the city though, the nomadic way of life remains the domain

of humble, welcoming families who treat Mother Earth with dignity and respect. This was the Mongolia we 10 adventurers had come to see, and before long the eager young Austrian ponies were on the dirt heading southwest across the steppes, past the armoury and platoons of the United Nations who use the area as training grounds, to the overnight camp at Elsen Tasarkhai, part of the Mongol ELS sand dunes.

We arrived in the early evening to a welcome, warm, thirst quencher, a great meal in the dining ger and a hot shower.

On line

On only the second day of the ride we all felt as though we’d been away from our loved ones for a month. We’d spent a few days in walking the Great Wall and taking in other Beijing highlights in China before crossing to Mongolia, but we hadn’t jumped on the bikes until we arrived in Ulaanbaatar. That made it seem as if we’d been away even longer.

The dunes echoed with the sound of rev-limited EXCs, particularly from one

Austrian, on an Austrian, who pursued the ‘unusual’ noise from his engine while the rest of us waited for the ‘pop’.

After a photoshoot with hunting eagles and a banquet lunch at a local pub we passed through the ancient city of Karakorum and were soon in deep, green valleys. The incoming rain filled the creeks which crossed our route and tested out the electronics on the modern machinery.

Fortunately the rain skirted our camp and allowed the ‘Slaughter Of The Lamb’ ceremony – our dinner – to be the main event for the evening, followed by an incredible light show in the western sky. Some chose to cast a line in the river rather than watch the butchery, but with little angling success.

Above: From left: Rob Moffett, Bob Moffett, Mike ‘Goldie’ Golden, Neville Kelly, Ben Pope, author Michael Burton, Lars Hyltoft, Dan Ballantyne and Siggy Strauss.

Below: Sandy tracks and grassy fields became skid pans.

u

Spring time

The stopover at the Ulaan Tsutgalan waterfall on the Orkhon River, a UNESCO World Heritage site well attended by tourists, gave one of the guides the opportunity to show his piloting skills as his drone buzzed within spray distance above the cascade.

The previous evening’s storm had added a new dimension to the ride. Sandy tracks and grassy fields became skid pans and trickling brooks became raging torrents, one fierce enough to dislodge Tony and cause instant death

to his Austrian mate. While the crew attempted to revive the dead, the rest of us sat in the hot springs enjoying not the medicinal herb tea of the area, but rather hops and Cuban cigars.

It was a fitting way to end the day.

Sunset delight

As the skies transformed from deep shades of grey to brilliant blue, the riding style changed, becoming more aggressive as the tracks dried. Ben found just the right black, muddy puddle to launch a premeditated move into the middle, roosting the black porridge metres into

the air and landing on Yours Truly following behind.

An early stop in a local town where black-market traders sold from shipping containers gave us a chance to stock up on treats before we lunched, again on ‘fatty’ meats, at the Serpent Head Rock, a tourist hotspot where the riders attempted archery, a ‘yonnie’ throwing contest won by the tour operator, and a ‘tame’ jaunt on two of the more attractive llamas proudly led by their herder.

Arrival at the White Lake in the late afternoon allowed time to climb the adjacent rocky lookout for a magnificent view over the camp and the lake as the sun settled down for the evening.

Smack down

With early-rising German tourists crowding the showers, Mike ‘Goldie’ Golden hit the lake for a scrub. I don’t think the soap even touched his skin before he turned brittle with the cold.

This was a transport day and the knobby tyres didn’t make for a comfortable ride, so we were glad for the opportunity to get off the tar and into the deep sand surrounding Telmena Lake. It was our overnight camp, and the image of Dan’s head sticking out from the remote dunny still brings a laugh.

Our tour leader had clearly been working out in preparation for the Naadam Games and threw down the idea of a wrestling match. The challenge was quickly taken up by WA gentlegiant Nev and lead rider Boggie, only to be declared a draw after several rounds of competitive grasping,

Top: Riders were glad for any opportunity to get off the tar and into the deep sand.

Top left: A Mongolian ‘ger’ is an octagonal tent with a skeleton of struts and a skin of yak hair woven into a blanket tied to the frame with ropes. Lars Hyltoft checked out his accom.

Left: A fitting end to another day.

Above: The image of Dan’s head sticking out from the remote dunny still brings a laugh.

Below: The effect of the 12-per-cent Bear beer quickly kicked in and the wrestling concluded as warriors stumbled and fell.

gasping and groaning like two wounded sumo wrestlers. The effect of the 12-per-cent Bear beer quickly kicked in, on some faster than others, and the wrestling matches concluded as warriors stumbled and fell with little assistance.

Fishys

The next day was the biggest – 400km – and an early start meant early lights out…if there’d been any lights. Fortunately the summer days in Mongolia are long, with the sunrise around 5.00am and sunset after 9.30pm. It was just as well, as the next day Nev’s bike refused to co-operate, providing inconsistent fire to the belly of his KTM. The rocky ground also took its toll on the support ’Cruiser’s tyres.

With the spark problem traced to a loose terminal (after MLA’s mechanic dismantled half the engine) and the tyres repaired, it was full steam ahead through the deep sand to Khyargas Lake, the biggest in Mongolia and, as we quickly found out, a home for many species of fish, some which ended up on our breakfast plates after a successful 15 minutes with a spinner.

Suckers

Everyone was feeling great the next day as we headed back through the sand dunes around the lake towards our final destination of Ulgii, 350km to the south, tucked away u

temuJin mongolian Crossing

between the borders of China, Russia and Kazakhstan. Everything was going along smoothly until I realised my tethered camera was no longer tethered. It meant either forgetting 2100 photos of the trip and moving on, or backtracking 10km to the likely spot where the last photos were taken. I was elated at finding the red case of the camera glittering in the sunshine and half buried in the coarse sand on the lake’s shore.

The backtracking in deep sand meant excess fuel use and an engine expiry, and that resulted in a 40-minute delay and late arrival in to the Eagles Nest Hotel.

It also meant a delay in the evening’s first warm beer.

A better name for the hotel would’ve been The Mosquito’s Nest. The suckers waited at the door for feeding time and we were dinner.

Piece of cake

The plan for the rest day in Ulgii was to take a short ride to a nearby valley to locate Aisholpan, the female star of the The Eagle Hunter, a docco which tells of a young girl who rescued an eagle chick and trained it to hunt. We found her and her nomadic family in the late after-

noon, much further up in the valley than we expected, with the help of another nomad. It left us with a tough, 30km ride through bone-jarring rock. Riders slalomed skilfully but recklessly over and around the rocks in a triumph of temperament over common sense.

The unexpected banquets in the valley, first with the directing nomad and second with Aisholpan’s family, almost put an end to Bob Moffett’s birthday celebratory dinner, complete with birthday cake, which had been arranged in the ger of a Ulgiiarian native. More than one of us would’ve been content to drink the warm beer at the hotel among swarming mozzies instead. But a team is a team, not a collection of individuals, and off we went to engage in banquet number three for the arvo.

A real world

That day marked the end of the ride component of the adventure, but not the end of the tour. A two-hour flight back to the capital had us at the gates of Ulaanbaatar Stadium for the Naadam festival – The Three Games Of Men.

Above: Nomadic herders still depend on nature for survival, and the wide-open spaces, untouched wilderness, fresh air and water are cherished dearly. Left: Aisholpan, the female star of the The Eagle Hunter.

Top right: The previous evening’s rain had added a new dimension to the ride.

The games are Mongolian wrestling, archery and horse riding, and are held throughout the country during midsummer. From a distant past the Naadam festival gathered the nomadic and local people not just for competition but also to barter, sell goods and gossip. The activity is in and all around the central stadium and is embraced by the whole nation.

We had experienced the best of Beijing, ridden across Mongolia east to west and attended the second-oldest games in history, The Naadam festival. During the course of our adventure we were welcomed wherever we stopped by the Mongolian people who were helpful, friendly and as warm-hearted as their vast valleys.

Land-locked Mongolia is a fascinating country and the motherland of the great Genghis Khan who built the mighty Mongol Empire back in the 13th century. It’s a vast and historical land with thousands of years of ancient culture, and has existed and thrived thanks to its heroic and patriotic ancestors. We had had the pleasure of travelling through the pristine landscape for 10 days, and the nomadic herders still depend on nature for survival, and the wide-open spaces, untouched wilderness, fresh air and water are cherished dearly by the nomadic Mongols.

It can be a challenge to ride, but for those of us who made the effort, it was an adventure of a lifetime.

Outside the main cities the landscapes are still respected by the Mongolians.

miD liFe aDventures

Mid Life Adventures offers likeminded ‘explorers’ who are not into racing point-to-point the opportunity to tick items off their own bucket lists. The goal is to provide unique life, culture, gastronomic and ride experiences, and it’s about the journey not the destination.

MLA is not a commercial tour operator, it’s a facilitator supported by offshore affiliates who supply accommodation, machinery, nourishment and support to give unique experiences at an affordable price. See more at midlifeadventures.com.au

Ducati Adventure Tour

Sled heads and Multi maniacs

Ducati Australia And New Zealand recently kicked off its first-ever brand-supported adventure ride. Adventure Rider Magazine was invited to tag along. We admit to having enjoyed ourselves way more than was right when we were supposed to be working.

Images: Nick Fetcher and TF

Image: Nick Fletcher

Left: The ride kicked off from a Hunter Valley winery.

What a way to start a day.

Above: Even behind all that exotic machinery the Ducati truck stands out.

When the Mutlistrada 1200 Enduro hit Australia a few years ago, Adventure Rider Magazine was in awe of what a fabulous job Ducati had done with its first attempt at a serious adventure tourer. After the 1200 came a few variations which we also liked, and a range of Scramblers which looked horn, but we thought were more about image than adventure riding. But when we rode the Desert Sled variation, it turned out to be a capable dirt-road runner and a whole lot of seriously good fun on and off the road.

Having established the Multistrada range and Scrambler stable, Ducati has taken another bold step and offered owners an adventure ride tailored to suit the Italian marque’s off-roaders.

A good start

Maschine was chosen to run the ride, and Nick and Trudi Selleck, as usual, ran a firstclass event from start to finish.

The accommodation, cuisine and, most of all the route, were spectacular. All of those things were ideally suited to both bikes and riders. As an added bonus, Tasmanian trout-chaser and all-around top bloke Chris Wharmby jumped in the driver’s seat of the support ute and blazed a fourwheel-drive track through the terrain behind the bikes.

From the brand’s point of view, Ducati sent along it’s awesome truck, manned by super-tech Chito Centino. Chito proved to be a happy and incredibly helpful tech who never seemed to work up a sweat or end up grotty. It didn’t matter if he was changing tyres, helping with basic maintenance or carving up the landscape on a Desert Sled, he always seemed to end up clean, well-presented, and smiling. Also in attendance from Ducati was Marketing Manager Simon Leplaw. Simon punted around a ‘Multi’ with authority and was often in the right place at the right time to help push

Top: A group determined to have a good time. From left: Ian Kirby, Simon Leplaw, Jim Laftsidis, Captain Mike Cook, Chris Hartshorne, Greg Helps, Paul Kousinis, Trudi Selleck, (back) Adrian Morris, (front) Nick Selleck, Aron Berkery, Nigel Pratt, (kneeling) Chris Mifsud, and Mike Gilbert.

Left: Ducati tech Chito Centino was always smiling and clean, no matter how fast he rode or how much maintenance he did for riders.

Right: Jim Laftsidis summed up the first

Adventure Tour.

a bike or grab a pic.

The final factor behind a hugely successful first adventure ride was the attitude of the riders themselves. There can’t have been too many groups around as happy and willing as this lot.

Just right

Kicking off from the Hunter Valley, Nick and Trudi set a course of bitumen and sensible forestry dirt that had everyone roosting north to the NSW mid-north coast. At just over 400km the first day’s ride included a bit of everything and was well measured to let everyone settle in.

Although Ducati offered the choice between road and dualsport routes, none of the 15 starters asked for the bitumen, so after an early start to bank some photos, then a luxurious breakfast, the whole show blasted off through Dungog, Gloucestor, Comboyne, and into Port Macquarie with very few hold ups. Even with some high spirits on show

Ducati

Image: Nick Fletcher

Image: Nick Fletcher

Image: Nick Fletcher u

shredding through the leafy, premium forest trails, it was still just on dusk when the tired, but clearly very excited, riders dragged their sweaty, grinning selves into the plush Sails resort to tidy up and prepare for the night’s briefing.

That set the tone for the entire ride.

Looping

The next morning dawned clear and warm, and with everyone still buzzing from the first day, the show headed northwest to clear a loop which had been promised to include a few challenges, some amazing scenery, a couple of beachside villages and, for those so inclined, an optional sand section at the end of the day.

“Who likes riding sand?” called out Nick Selleck at the briefing. The sullen silence which followed was probably the only sullen silence from any rider

“Absolutely superb dualsporting, including an incredible stretch of forestry twin track and some hardpack farm roads. ”

during the whole three days.

As it turned out, after 250km or so of absolutely superb dualsporting, including an incredible stretch of forestry twin track and some hardpack farm roads which let the Ducatis show their performance pedigrees, most of the riders fronted up for what turned out to be a very challenging 20km or so to finish the day. The sand was deep and soft, and once that was conquered there were still several kilometres of seriously rough,

hard-edged potholes to negotiate. The late-afternoon light was dappled and the potholes hard to see, so the bikes copped a savage pounding.

This section highlighted the difference between the Desert Sled and Multistrada riders. In the sand, the Sledders with their smaller, lighter bikes danced on through and snickered quietly behind their hands as the big Multis slogged through the same terrain. A few of the big bikes needed the help of fellow riders to keep them moving.

But when the potholes and ruts started, the Multi riders made the relevant selections from their electronics’ menu and powered on through. The Sledders, fiercely proud of their oldschool, ‘real’ motorcycles, hacked, bashed and smashed their way along a singularly unforgiving section, then pulled up to tighten up flapping

Left: Not part of the route. Just loving the Desert Sled and what it can do.

Top right: Some of the forest twin track was challenging, especially on the big bikes. Greg Helps made light work of the tight going.

Right: “Who wants to ride sand?” was asked at briefing. “Nobody!” came the answer. But by the end of the day most riders had decided to have a crack. Thanks to some great teamwork everyone made it through.

Image: Nick Fletcher

mirrors and make dental appointments.

Competition between the factions was good-natured, and one of the most uplifting facets of the whole Ducati Adventure Tour was the brotherhood and mutual support between riders, including staffers. Help was guaranteed, no matter where or what bike.

The day concluded with a sunset ferry ride across to the resort and a big seafood feast.

Among the gum trees

The final day meant leaving Port Macquarie and heading back to the Hunter Valley. The plan was to take in more forest dirt roads, see some great sights and stop at the motorcycle museum at Nabiac for a bit of a look-see.

By the third day everyone had settled in, and coarse, good-humoured challenges were being thrown out right, left and centrestand. The pace – let’s be honest – was up.

Inevitably someone came unstuck on a gritty forest turn. That triggered some hairy moments for the riders behind and before anyone had time to blink there were a couple of big Multis on their sides and riders looking a little bemused and befuddled.

Image: Nick Fletcher

Image: Nick Fletcher u

Luck was in everyone’s favour. Not only was no-one injured, but the bikes, well-protected with crash bars and Oggie knobs, had no real damage. The worst seemed to be a cracked beak on Chris Mifsud’s Multi. Somehow Chris had managed to get the big bike up a steepish bank, into the forest edge, and run it nose-first into a stonking great gum tree.

No koalas were alarmed, folks. It was a very environmentally friendly incident. With everything back in balance and enthusiasm under control, the riders headed into Nabiac for lunch and to see how much their stories of amazing saves and incredible speed could be exaggerated. But between the time lost in the forest and a flat tyre, there was no motorcycle-museum visit on this trip. That’ll be something to look forward to on Ducati Adventure Tour 2: Rise Of The Sled Heads

About the only challenge the group hadn’t faced and conquered was rain, but, almost as if it’d been factored into the ride, it belted down on the last afternoon.

Those with open-face helmets had that stinging sensation of being shot in the face by a dozen spud guns at once as they tried to squint through the curtain of thundering water to see where the hell the twisting mountain road was heading.

“Nabiac for lunch and to see how much their stories of amazing saves and incredible speed could be exaggerated. ”

Those with dualsport helmets weren’t much better off. They weren’t being pelted in the face with rain, but they couldn’t see much either.

Nick and Trudi regrouped everyone at a servo in a village called Booral, and in a master stroke, Nick decided to ‘let the weather pass’.

The bedraggled and saturated group

Above: Any time the trails opened out the scenery was awesome.

Left: Ducati’s Simon Leplaw – at the front of the bike –seemed to be in the right place at the right time all the time. He and Ian Kirby helped Chris Mifsud get his Multi out of the bush and back on the trail after on off-track excursion.

Right: A stop at Booral to let the weather pass.

didn’t look too hopeful, but Nick was right: after about 30 minutes the rain had all but stopped and there were patches of clear sky in the direction everyone hoped the ride was headed.

First place

The final section did in fact head into sunshine and warmer temperatures and everyone cheered up immensely… just in time for one last lashing from Mother Nature about five kilometres from the finish.

So it was a wet and very happy and satisfied crew who high-fived and cheered around the Ducati truck that afternoon. They’d ridden rocks, water, sand, clay, forest, ridges, valleys and awesome twisting bitumen. They’d stuck together and conquered some tough and amazing terrain, consumed heroic amounts of Atlantic salmon and wagyu sirloin, and they were justifiably proud of themselves.

Let’s hope there’s more adventure rides to come from Ducati, because this one was a belter.

2019 Scrambler Desert Sled

Ducati Retailer.

Deadhorse

It’s 10,000km from Vancouver, Canada, to Deadhorse in Alaska and back again. Ian Macartney took it on.

Words and images: Ian Macartney

After shipping a mixed breed of nine bikes, including two R1200GSs, to Vancouver, we arrived after a 13-hour overnight flight from Auckland to prepare our steeds for the 30-day adventure planned and supported by fellow Kiwi, Rosco Pennell.

We had a wee unplanned tour of the city as we rode north through Vancouver (we got lost following the support truck) until my GPS got us back on track to Williams Lake for the night. It was a big, 650km first day filled with spectacular mountains, scenery and excellent riding.

This really became the standard for the whole trip: sublime roads and stunning scenery.

Bear essentials

A lot of British Columbia is just huge spaces filled with endless trees, rivers, lakes and mountains. Temperatures were between 25°C and 35°C for the first two weeks, so the riding was comfortable as well as spectacular.

We pushed on to Prince George and New Hazelton where, as guests of the accom owners, we enjoyed a special barbeque of fresh wild salmon. The rich colour of this fish had to be seen to be believed, and the taste was nothing like NZ salmon. It was a special treat.

Next we rode to Stewart, a quirky little place which sits alongside the tiny outpost of Hyder in Alaska. Two of us headed 30km up a mountainous gravel road to view the

Top right: First Nation Village in British Columbia.

Below: The massive hunting and fishing store in Cabelas was almost a destination in itself. It had hectares of outdoor everything. u

Left: The Campbell Highway, Yukon, Canada.

Above: Vancouver to the Arctic Circle and back.

massive Salmon Glacier from a high pass, and on the way down we stopped at Fish Creek, passing within metres of a black bear in a clearing. I later met a First Nation politician at breakfast in Fairbanks who was wearing a necklace made from bear claws. These are seriously long, 100mm-plus talons. It sort of stays in your mind as you’re riding and it’s amazing how vulnerable you suddenly feel on a bike when you do see a bear.

There was an enclosed viewing deck nearby to see the salmon spawning in the shallow river and also the bears scooping them up at their leisure.

Smoke on the water

In Australia you have to watch for ’roos, emus and wombats popping out of the bush. In Canada and Alaska it’s a whole different ballgame watching for bears, moose, caribou, bison and wolves – which we saw at close range on several occasions. Generally we stopped well back and watched. There was rarely time to get the camera out for a pic, plus we were mainly thinking of a 180-degree escape plan.

“In Canada and Alaska it’s a whole different ballgame watching for bears, moose, caribou, bison and wolves. ”

At Dease Lake on our fifth night the settlement was blanketed in smoke from wildfires which destroyed 36 homes at Telegraph Creek further up the road. The next morning the smoke didn’t clear for 80km, which we thought a big deal, but was nothing compared to the last week of the trip where we rode for four days and over 2000km in dense smoke and rain, all at eight degrees.

A traction

It was great riding over the next few days on a good surface to Whitehorse, Tok and Fairbanks, a fair sized city. We also visited the small settlement of North Pole and Santa’s House. This was a big setup selling Christmas decorations by the truckload.

In Fairbanks we prepped for the push 400km north to the Arctic Circle and Coldfoot Camp.

Next day a mate and I rode the last 400km to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, on the Beaufort Sea. Our support vehicle, a HiLux, followed behind with spare fuel, although as it happened we didn’t need it. I’m not sure how much supporting it would’ve done if we’d needed it anyway. There were five passengers on board and the rear was full of luggage.

Those of you who’ve watched Ice Road Truckers will be familiar with the infamous Dalton Highway. Even in summer it was still unpredictable. The gravel roads, plummeting temperatures, snow, rain and

Above: Rocky the bear rode pillion across the Yukon. Below: In Australia you have to watch for ’roos, emus and wombats popping out of the bush. In Canada and Alaska it’s a whole different ballgame.

mud proved to be an extreme challenge at times for both Kel on his ’03 Africa Twin and myself on the 1200GS. Fortunately we ran TKC90s up front TKC70s on the rear, and they gave a bit of much-needed traction and steerage.

Tough

We still sledged, shimmied and skated around, and it was bitterly cold for the last 300km after the 1530-metre Atigun Pass. There was absolutely nowhere to shelter from the elements – not a tree, building or hill. Nothing. Plus, we had several 30km sections of road works where we had to follow a pilot vehicle. We just had to guts it out. Three pairs of gloves, heated grips, five layers of clothing, a balaclava and rain jacket were barely enough protection for nine hours in the saddle at those latitudes.

We were knackered when we arrived at Deadhorse Camp accommodation in Prudhoe Bay. Warm buildings, hot coffee, a shower, a down jacket and a hot meal were the order of the day and soon restored our spirits, even though it looked like the end of the world outside.

All food had to be removed from our bikes as polar bears came into the area

at night and the soft panniers were no match for their appetite. As we dried our gear Kel was thinking about the ride back and the grim weather we might find.

Swim team

It was a chilly four degrees Celsius and overcast as we boarded the tour bus for a guided trip around the oilfields and out to the Beaufort Sea the next morning. The ocean was a bracing two degrees Celsius when I changed into my togs for a wee swim, along with Brad from Texas and Christy from Costa Rica, the only ones game enough to do it. What a hoot. My feet were numb, but the blood rushed back to heat my body…or maybe it was the site of Christy sporting a racy bikini in the middle of nowhere.

Everyone else was trussed up like Eskimo Nell.

We three received Arctic-swim certificates as proof of our madness 500km north of the Arctic Circle.

Good day

Deadhorse has a population of 3000 oil workers.

The oil is pumped from 3000 metres below the permafrost and is at 60°C

when it reaches the surface. It’s then pumped, unrefined, 1300km through the Alaskan pipeline to Valdez, from where it’s shipped around the world. We paid US$5.00 per gallon for petrol up there as it had to be trucked in from Fairbanks or Anchorage. Further south it was US$3.43 per gallon.

After fuelling up we checked out the Carlisle Trucking Depot to see if we could see Lisa, Pork Chop or Rick from Ice Road Truckers, but no luck. They must’ve been on the beach in Hawaii.

We kitted up for battle and headed south. Amazingly the weather just got better and better. The road was dry and the temperature a tropical 11°C.

That was a day to savour. Stunning views of the snow-capped Brooks Mountain Range, the pipeline, huge rivers and green valleys were everywhere. After the hell ride the previous day we certainly appreciated it.

Mountain pass

Coldfoot Camp was our stop for the night, then we slogged over 400km of gravel back to Fairbanks and washed the bikes. They were caked in a cement-like coating of silica mud. After a Chinese meal

Left: The author above the Salmon Glacier near Hyder in Alaska. Above: Alaska is frontier country.

and an ale or two it was all good. Denali was our stop for the next night. It was tourist central and included a top group meal in a Croatian restaurant. The accommodation was right up there –flash as, bro! – and set us up to cope with the heavy rain of the next morning. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see the 6190m Mount McKinley/Denali, the highest mountain in North America. Two kilometres behind me Kel had an amazing experience when a full size male moose crossed the road in front of him. He was still buzzing when we stopped for brunch.

Back in time

We rocked into Anchorage looking forward to our first day off, which we spent visiting the BMW dealer to check out the bikes, and Cabelas, the massive hunting and fishing store with every kind of previously beautiful, but now stuffed, animal on display. It was sort of a dead indoor zoo. We then wandered downtown to watch a jaw-dropping film on the Aurora Borealis. From Anchorage we headed east on a figure-of-eight journey towards Copper Centre, passing the massive Matanuska Glacier.

Copper Centre was as quirky as they come. The accommodation was left over from the pipeline construction days, an unusual collection of stitched-together buildings with a large model railway wending its way around the property –I kid you not – and there were some excellent Alaskan ales on tap, competitive pool, 1970s music and the night was a ripper in the middle of absolutely nowhere.

The split

Another day’s ride took us to Tok, then the famous Top Of The World Highway to Dawson City.

Wow!

About 300km of hard-packed gravel across the ridge tops gave big, sweeping vistas until the ferry across the very fast-flowing and mighty Yukon River to Dawson City brought an end to a magic day’s ride.

Dawson City is as it was in 1898: dirt roads, boardwalks and beautiful, original buildings. It was a great place and we had a rest day planned for the following day, so we were able to take in some of the sights. Another day would’ve been good, though. I didn’t take part in the

Above: The weather was fine 600km from Deadhorse at Prudhie Bay. It changed drastically after the Atigun Pass.

Below: The infamous Dalton Highway south of Prudhoe Bay heading to Coldfoot with the 800 mile Trans Alaskan Oil Pipeline in the distance.

Sour Toe Challenge in the Jack London Bar, where for a fee a frostbitten toe is placed in a glass of whiskey. You drink the whiskey and touch the toe with your lips, if you accidently swallow the toe you get a $1500 fine.

At over 4900km long the Yukon River was an integral part of the Yukon goldrush history, and we rode alongside the waterway to Carmacks Hotel where we split into two groups. The road riders went one way and the three adventure riders and the support ute, carrying spare fuel, went down the remote Campbell Highway. This day was 650km, including 450km of gravel, and what a day it proved to be.

Ring of fire

Top roads and scenery, blue, blue skies, lenticular clouds, trees, lakes and more trees – then a puncture for me 145km from our planned overnight stop in Watson Lake. My two riding buddies had carried on without looking behind or checking the status of their teammate. Thanks, bros.

After 90km the situation changed big time for me. Wildfires closed the road ahead and behind. It was spectacular to see a 30km fire front up close, with dense smoke and massive fireballs exploding 60m high and moving at speed, having already jumped two rivers.

“ After 90km the situation changed big time for me. Wildfires closed the road ahead and behind.”

We turned the ute and bike around and found a road-workers’ camp in a huge gravel pit where they kindly took us under their wing, fed us, gave us a room each and let us use their minimal WiFi to get a message to the others we were safe. The road workers said choppers would haul us out if fires got any closer, but fortunately they didn’t.

Smoky bandits

Next morning after a four-hour wait we were escorted through the five-kilometre long corridor of dense smoke and flames.

We were happy to reach Watson Lake and catch up with remainder of the crew.

That night after dinner I presented my riding buddies with the Special Condom Award, including a small condom each, to protect anyone else from catching the insidious Jack’s Disease – as in ‘I’m alright, Jack’. (I’d found the complimentary condoms in a hotel restroom)

Fortunately, in this case it was only a flat tyre, not a crash or medical issue, but they had no idea what had happened behind them and continued on for 145km without checking,

I’d made my point.

The next four days and 2300km were spent riding in heavy smoke as the fires continued raging all the way to Kamloops, through what should have been some of the best scenery in the Canadian Rockies.

All done

The final day’s ride from Kamloops to Vancouver was 550km of sun, blue skies and winding roads down the Thompson and Fraser River valleys.

The last 60km into Vancouver was hectic motorway traffic. It wasn’t fun, but had to be done. We cleaned the bikes meticulously and rode them to the freight yard to be loaded into our container.

The final-night group dinner was good fun and a fitting end to a well-run tour, thanks to Rosco’s Rocky Road Adventures. It was great to ride with old friends, new friends and experience top riding and scenery.

A ride like this may seem daunting to some, but if you have enough rest days and are well prepared, it’s a great experience.

Above: A 1600km run on the Dalton leaves a hard, crusty, concrete-like substance behind. It takes a bit to remove it. Right: A major milestone.

Laos Destination:

Col Bayman, the pied-piper of the Perth Adventure Riders, decided it was time for a new destination. A map was commandeered and a dart thrown. “South-east Asia,” said Col. Tiger MacCarthy signed up and packed his kit.

Words: Tadhg ‘Tiger’ MacCarthy. Images: Oggie and Mark Freeman.

Attilio, our token Italian, had been to Laos many times with the Jules Classic Adventure touring company, so Col contacted their tour leader, French ex-pat, Jean Louis.

Col: “What’s the best time to go?”

Jean-Louis: “November or December.”

Col: “Okay, let’s do it in March.”

Col: “What’s the best number for a group?”

Jean-Louis: “Six or so.”

Col: “Okay. Let’s cap the numbers at 18.”

Jean-Louis: “Mais oui! No problem.”

They don’t call him Col ‘The More The Merrier’ for nothing.

Down Hill start

The calendar ticked down, preparations were made and finally the departure date was upon us.

Before any ride, and even more so a foreign ride, the big fear is, ‘What will I forget?’ Visions of turning up without boots or helmet turns a double check into a quintuple check. Unless, of course, your name is Andrew ‘Hilly’ Hill, who, struggling to differentiate AM from PM, arrived at the airport 12 hours late. His Queensland education had let him down, but his Queensland nous still got him to the start line in time, albeit via Sydney.

For the rest of us, bedecked in our matching PAR Laos 2019 shirts courtesy of Andrew Johnstone, it was plain sailing to our starting point in Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

Who pays the ferryman Mekong River? u

Destination laos

Hilly’s story provided plenty of ribbing opportunities as we hung poolside at the hotel, sipping Beer Laos and waiting for a start.

It’s on!

Tour leader Jean-Louis and his trusty support crew of Yee, Mark and Touy arrived early to transport bodies and gear to the starting point. The laggards in the group – like Stephen Fern – got to travel in the back of the utes with the gear.

The next six days riding blended into many visceral experiences that ranged from busy urban to remote rural landscapes, and from the ancient and unchanged to the rapidly developing driven by the unrelenting march of progress. At each stop, as we recounted events, Col would shout, “Put that in the magazine!”

We decided it would need a book to fit it all in. Here’s the abridged version.

Get blessed and ride on

The ride started with a traditional Baci monk’s blessing ceremony to wish us good luck on our tour; the blessing was signified by a white-cotton wrist band for all. After a recent shoulder operation Col was unfortunately support-vehicle bound for the

trip. He looked on enviously as the rest of the group, including his brothers Roley and Pete, suited, booted, and rode out the gates.

With such a big group, Mike Littlefair took the role of lead rider behind Jean-Louis, with Andrew Johnstone as trusty sweep in front of our local Lao sweep, Yee. The PAR boys and sole girl Sue ‘Suze’ Trappitt employed the corner-person system to the letter, and the big group flowed well on day one and beyond (mostly). Mark Freeman captured many great shots along the way, some of which will surely go straight to the poolroom.

Out of Vientiane, we rode west on bitumen for 40km along the banks of the Mekong before heading off-road into the mountains, through rural villages, and on to our destination: the tiny village of Muang Fuang.

After a hot day on the trails, the cold Beer Laos served by the support crew was like an elixir matched only by a cool, refreshing dip in the fast-flowing Nam Lik river.

Back to school

The next day began with a short ferry ride across the Nam Lik river to the Kiengxieng primary school

Above: The Luang Prabang Motorcycle Club offered well-deserved ice-cold Beer Laos.

Right: The Perth Adventure Riders’ Facebook group headed to Laos. These guys – and girl – ride some premium international locations.

Below: Roads turned to gravel, then four-wheel-drive tracks, then truly rural countryside.

and its 24 pupils. As arranged, each member of our group had brought gifts of clothes, pens, books, toys and sports equipment. The kids were beautifully turned out, super wellbehaved, and accepted the gifts with a mixture of awe and disbelief. It was a privilege to spend some time in their remote community.

We were soon bound for Sayaboury via the 2000-metre summit of Kasi mountain. Bitumen mountain switchbacks brought the road-riders to the fore, namely Neil Barnes and Jason ‘Oggie’ Ogg, who relished pushing the little 250s along MotoGP style.

Near the summit and close behind a couple of big trucks we rounded a switchback where, without warning, the bitumen abruptly ended and was replaced by fesh-fesh reminiscent of the Dakar. A quick switch to Toby style (but more Toby from Neighbours than Toby Price) and we ploughed through, wondering what new surprises lay ahead.

We were to experience this terrain switch many times. Surely it’s only a matter of time before George Miller and crew turn up to film Mad Max: Laos

Whizz-bang, Luang Prabang

From Sayaboury our destination was Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of Laos and a UNESCO World Heritage city on the banks of the Mekong.

By this stage we were accustomed to the riding conditions: hot, humid and dusty as Laos approached the end of

Above: Dirk following the pack. Below: Oggie the big kid in primary school.

Destination laos

Above: A peaceful stop at the Nam Lik River. Below: A full smorgasbord of riding.

its dry season. Each day would typically start riding in busy urban conditions which heightened all the senses. It seemed chaotic, but it seemed to work all based on one simple factor: attitude. All road users are happy to share. We didn’t hear one angry horn blare during the trip. It was something we westerners could learn from.

To add to the mix, cows apparently have right of way regardless of location, and they roamed freely.

Urban landscapes opened out to the countryside, dotted with Chinese-funded infrastructure projects. Further afield the roads turned to gravel, and, as we ventured further, to four-wheel-drive tracks then truly rural countryside.

Highlights were passing through village settlements where chickens scattered, ducks quacked, goats were nonplussed, cows indifferent, kids waved and smiled and adults looked on. Oggie, the big kid in our group, was laden with lollies which he dished out to kids in each village. JeanLouis duly dubbed him ‘Pere Noël’ – the French version of Santa – but in his riding gear he looked more like Darth Vader than Father Christmas and caused some kids to run in the opposite direction.

After another day with a full smorgasbord of riding we reached the Luang Prabang Motorcycle Club for well-deserved ice-cold Beer Laos and settled into our comfortable hotel on the banks of the

Mekong. It was to be home for the next two nights.

Waterfalls or trails

Many took the opportunity for a rest day on day four and headed off to sample the highlights of Luang Prabang with a visit to the iconic waterfalls.

Others were there to ride, so a smaller, multi-cultural group of ‘Attilio’ Mara (Italian), Neal Allen (Pommy), Dirk Saunders (Zimbabwean), Tiger MacCarthy (Paddy) and our token Aussie Oggie took to the trails under the guide and support of Jean-Louis, Yee and Mark.

The smaller group allowed more time in the little village settlements. One remote village was home to a quite elaborate Buddhist temple dating back to the 1300s.

A regroup back in Luang Prabang allowed a debrief over a steamboat dinner on the banks of the Mekong.

An eventful day

Day five proved eventful.

By this point confidence was high in urban traffic. We left the hotel and cruised through the morning streets of Luang Prabang taking in the sights. For me that didn’t include the sight of a cornerman, so I duly got well and truly lost. Our ever-resourceful sweep Yee found me negotiating with a confused Tuk-Tuk driver to guide me back to the

Destination laos

hotel. Back with the group, I was presented with the fairy wings for the day, despite my protestations I was merely exercising my Irish gypsy rights to go walkabout.

The urban landscape led us to familiar

bikes

Made across the border in Thailand, the little Honda CRF250L was the perfect choice for this tour. Light, but somewhat underpowered and undersuspended, it handled the bitumen sections with aplomb and was happy to cruise at an indicated $1.20 or more. Given that around any corner could be any form of agricultural beast or vehicle, there was no need for anything more powerful.

post-apocalyptic riding before finally hitting the rugged, rural, off-road trails.

The mercury hit 40 degrees on this day, and Yee had to fix five punctures. Coupled with the lost Irish gypsy that seemed eventful enough for most. Not so.

On one trail descent which dog-legged left over a creek at the base, Suze overshot the corner and her TTR250 was airborne and bound for the waterway. With some quick-thinking she bailed but landed heavily on her elbow. She put a brave face on it, but it was clear medical attention was required.

This is where being on a professional tour came into play. Suze was quickly in the second backup vehicle with constant companion Neil and driver Touy off in search of a nearby hospital. The resulting bill was US$29.

Our destination that night was an elephant sanctuary resort which, with its African feel, had Dirk dreaming of his Zimbabwean home. Piers Yates-Round, with his quiff, coiffured moustache and plummy accent was only missing a pith helmet and safari suit to fit the bill as an entitled Pommy sergeant-major from

Above: Passing through village settlements was a highlight.

Below: Suze overshot the corner.

the glory days of the empire. With a few Beer Laos on board he was heard shouting Blackadder-style “Mugambo! Get me the 12 gauge immediately!”

And so it ends

Too soon the final day’s riding arrived and we made our way back towards base in Vientiane. En route, Jean-Louis discovered a large illegal banana plantation under development. We had lunch on the banks of the 370-square-kilometre Nam Mgum dam and briefly followed a white ute belching out black smoke as the sign on the back proudly read ‘Green Discovery Eco Tours’. It was a brief example of the many glimpses of life in Laos.

By tour’s end:

8 The unspecified relationship status of constant companions Neil and Suze had been proclaimed as ‘married’ by Lao Mark

8 Our Gero dero and Yamaha devotee Merv Martian had convinced a local dealer to sell him a huge Yamaha banner that was hand delivered to the hotel by some local Yamaha brass, and

8 Our final day included a sobering and sombre visit to COPE, a stark reminder of the ongoing legacy of war (see the sidebar – ed).

Thanks to Jean-Louis and crew we had many memories from an all-too-brief visit to the beautiful country of Laos.

helP laos CoPe

Laos is a landlocked country in southeast Asia bordered by Vietnam to the east, Thailand and Myanmar to the west, Cambodia to the south and China to the north.

Since the mid-20th century Laos has suffered a civil war, been embroiled in the Vietnam war, gained independence and become, and remains, a communist country.

Of most interest to a westerner is what has become known as ‘the secret CIA war’ waged in Laos during the Vietnam war. Over a nine-year period, the US dropped in excess of two-million tons of bombs on Laos, which now has the unwanted distinction of being the most bombed country per capita in the world. It’s estimated 80 million unexploded cluster bomblets are still strewn across the Laos landscape.

Fatalities now run in excess of 50,000 people and the slow work of clearing this man-made problem continues. See copelaos.org for more details.

Puncture

Pliers, rasp, needle insertion tool, knife and 5 pre-glued plugs, all in a handy pouch. 1 Remove offending item from your tyre.

Use the rasp to clean out the hole. 3 Thread needle with plug, push into the hole and pull out. 4 Separate the knife from tool and cut the plug flush with the tyre. The knife slides off the

Tasmania 2019 KTM Adventure Rallye:

Words and images: Danny Wilkinson

Main: Daniel Milner leading the way up Jacob’s Ladder on the new 790.

Right: The star (mechanical) attraction made an appearance on top of Ben Lomond.

Below right: Even hail couldn’t dampen Alexander Scanlon’s enthusiasm on the west coast.

It’s funny how things change as time passes. When I started adventure riding at the ripe old age of almost 17, the big appeal was freedom. Freedom to explore, to not be bound by time constraints and the conventions of modern society.

As I progressed through the next few years, a big part of this involved riding isolated areas, often on my own, as I thrived on the sense of achievement and self-reliance. I’m not going to lie, I got in over my head on quite a few occasions and some of my navigational choices were just plain dumb.

Fast forward and the tables have turned. The quality of an adventure these

days is generally determined by those around me and I’ve been incredibly fortunate to travel with an amazing collection of riders. And finally, (much to the editor’s relief) that’s where the story of the Tasmanian KTM Rallye kicks off. Not with the rain, hail and snow of the wild Western Explorer. Not with the incredible coastal scenery around the Bay Of Fires or the craggy heights of Jacob’s Ladder on a sunny day. Indeed, the story of this Rallye, and many events like it, is it acts as a gathering place. Even when life gets in the way and you don’t get to catch up as often as you’d like, you can look forward to that one week in the year when you get to ride,

chat, mock and generally have a good time with friends from all over who share a common interest.

Standing around shivering in the rain seems more fun when someone has fallen off in the mud. With the Rallye on its fourth running in Australia a great sense of community has developed among familiar and first-time faces.

Catching cold

Cradle Mountain is a spectacular location to kick off a multiday motorcycle adventure, but it’s prone to cold weather many Australians aren’t equipped for –the kind of cold that has riders wondering if their heated grips are still working

u

Top left: Craig Brown and Dan Barker enjoying themselves on the Jacob’s Ladder descent

Bottom far left: Glenn Chidgey proved the 4WDs didn’t have all the fun south of Hobart.

Bottom left: The art of synchronised rock climbing.

Above: Part of the crew that works tirelessly behind the scenes. (L to R) Racesafe Medic Dr Michael Thumm, Cliff Grech, Rod Dyer, John Cadman, Rosie Lalonde, Chris Page, David Woods, Brett Downey, Troy Daley.

Below: For a small State, there’s still plenty of room to roam in Tasmania.

ktm aDventure rallye

and what it would be like to hang out with Ray and Mark Barnes in the 4WD support vehicle for the day. Luckily, these thoughts were rendered moot – yes, moot – as the route disappeared into the scrub. The slick, red clay kept everyone working and raised core temperatures considerably.

By lunch the crew had ventured onto the Western Explorer that floats over alpine plains before descending into lush, green rainforest, crossing the Pieman River via the Fatman barge at Corinna.

Range finder

Day two started wet and cold with some of Tasmania’s famed winding bitumen keeping everyone’s knobbies on high alert out of Strahan. There was a tangible sense of happiness as the sun made an appearance towards the east coast and the final breakout route through

Above: Naxos Rally organiser Efthymis Albertis made the trip across from Greece.

Below: There was potential for chaos in the Swanston Track but it was handled well by the riders.

Below left: Paul Noppean making his way down the hill to Swansea.

Right: Craig Frazer enjoying the single track near Derby.

Far right top: Trailblazing around fallen timber.

Far right bottom: Events like this don’t operate without a quality crew. Greg (Grego) Terry and John (Sprocket) Povey are among the best in the business.

sneak Peak

The impending arrival of the 790 Adventure on Australian shores was a hot topic amongst Rallye participants this year.

A lone 790 was airfreighted into Australia and promptly smuggled across Bass Strait in time for the penultimate day. The keys were handed to ISDE World Champion Daniel Milner well before dawn so he could blast the bike to the top of Jacob’s Ladder and greet surprised Rallye goers.

Following a trail of increasingly longer slide marks up the hill, Jeff Leisk’s advice at the top was typical of his unassuming wisdom; “Now Daniel, you do

realise you can steer a motorcycle with the front wheel.”

Mind you, Jeff’s path didn’t look a great deal more conservative.

The reaction at the top was awesome, with grown men clambering over the bike like a new piece of playground equipment. Luckily, I’d gotten this out of my system a little earlier so I could maintain a degree of professionalism on the day.

the mud-filled 4WD trails southwest of Hobart made for a great afternoon.

“Make sure you stay on the correct side of the fence or risk becoming a sniper target”. Nick Selleck’s warning during the briefing was an ominous one for day three’s breakout route along the Swanston Track that runs parallel to a military training area. In all honesty, the loose rocks and challenging ascents caused more issues than any camouflaged intervention, but we were all careful to stick close to the track. Golden sunshine and a cool sea breeze filled the KTM Rallye headquarters at Swansea that afternoon and there was a real buzz in the camp after a great days’ riding.

High lights

The northeast corner of Tasmania really is a haven for off-road activities. The riding just kept getting better and by the final day everyone was railing loamy single track with grins like split watermelons.

These are the times you realise just how good the 1190cc machine is underneath you and wonder what kind of voodoo magic they waved over it at the factory to make it so natural on trails. Adventure riding isn’t just about the quality of the riding though, and it was great to punctuate it with the awe-inspiring scenery of Ben Lomond, the Bay Of Fires and Mount Barrow.

Combined with the slick organisation and excellent overnight venues, this was definitely a Rallye to remember.

BMW GsSafari

For its 25th anniversary BMW’s owner-ride phenomenon once again set a high, luxurious and beautifully managed standard.

Just a tad over 250 bikes and riders packed out the Crown Plaza Hotel at Windsor, on the Hawkesbury River to Sydney’s northwest, to celebrate what must surely be one of the great success stories in Australian motorcycling.

BMW’s GS Safari hasn’t just endured the years, it’s grown to an astonishing degree. The annual ride is often sold out within 48 hours of going on sale and usually sports a lengthy waiting list of hopefuls keen to nab a spot.

This state of affairs is no accident, of course. The event is superbly managed and administered, given huge support from BMW Motorrad, and, best of all, has been run by some wonderful people over the years.

In 2019 there’s been a changing of the guard, and after a brilliantly successful run by Grant and Sophia Evans – as Adventure Rider Magazine readers would know –

for the first time this year, off-road training instructors Shane Booth and Chris Urquhart took over the running of the Safari and its associated events.

Adventure Rider Magazine pulled on a spiffy new Rallye suit, climbed on to a new 850GSA and joined the throng.

Not the Safari Enduro

From a dualsport point of view there are two BMW rides each year. The Safari Enduro is aimed at GS riders comfortable with off-road terrain suited to the bikes. The days tend to be longish and the destinations are usually ‘epic’.

BMW loves the word ‘epic’.

The Safari, the ride which started it all, isn’t as demanding as the Safari Enduro. It’s designed to allow the GS range to show off at its best, and there’s usually plenty of twisty bitumen to get hearts racing, there’s always sensational scenery,

and there’s always some ‘off-road bits’. It’s these off-road bits that can make or break a GS Safari. If those sections are too tough bikes will be damaged, people possibly injured, and there’ll be fewer smiles at the end of each day. If the offroad bits are just right, the entire field is challenged during the ride, but packs in to the bar each night to relive the day, benchracing and bragging, but most of all, enjoying the fulfillment of conquering a tough but sensible ride.

As the riders left Windsor, nobody was really sure what to expect from the new organisers, but by the time Adventure Rider Magazine had completed its twoday run it was clear Shane and Chris had hit the sweet spot first time out.

The right people

Staff on these rides play a huge part in the overall atmosphere, and, as always,

Images: Luci Luci and TF

BMW had the best. Tech, medical, photo and video, tyre-changing, sweeps and hospitality staff were all first class, and it showed. All those things were tested and covered during the first couple of days, and every challenge was met and dealt with. Catering was, as always, superb, as was the accommodation.

Best of all was the feeling among the riders. It doesn’t get much friendlier and happier than at a BMW Safari.

Left: A rogue’s gallery. The journos swapped around through a selection of Beemers and looked to be having a ball.

Above: Jerrick Heng tried a sidelong look at the photographer. It worked. Here he is in the mag!

Right: Opening night of what must surely be one of the great success stories in Australian motorcycling.

Below: A tad over 250 bikes and riders and a waiting list as long as your swingarm. The GS Safari sells out fast.

Scenic

The route threaded its way through some familiar ground: Wisemans Ferry, St Albans, Laguna, Wollombi, Freemans Waterhole and on to the Hunter Valley for the night. The high-viz arrows which have been in use for several years marked the route, and a supplied route sheet and GPX files made for back up. Those arrows were a good thing. Somehow Adventure Rider Magazine became a little geographically embarrassed and rode into Laguna from the wrong direction. Seeing the arrows in the rearview mirror was the heads-up to the mistake.

Most off-roading on the first day was hard-packed dirt road. It was wide, comfortable, and even if the gritty surfaces sometimes made traction a little iffy, it was smooth, flowing riding.

There was ‘the off-road bit’, however. This was a sometimes rocky, sometimes muddy bit of track that included a washed-out bridge which then moved on to a section marked on the route sheet as ‘! Steep erosion mounds’. They were steep, too. Edgy bastards as well. In the dappled light of the forest they weren’t that easy to see, and, as made very clear at the rider briefing, they were likely to catch out a rider or two.

It happened. A broken tib and fib was the result, and the rider was a tad unlucky. He was riding sensibly, but even for riders doing the right thing sometimes it can go wrong.

Aside from that incident, soon dealt with by BMW staff, the day was uneventful.

Glorious, but uneventful. u

Image:

Luci Luci/Dean

Image: Luci

Luci/Dean

Baldy

On a warm, sunny, Hunter Valley morning, the second day kicked off with the promise of an off-road section in the afternoon that would slow riders down.

‘Gravel’ was repeated often at the briefing, along with ‘crowned trail’ and ‘off-camber’.

A 400km day started with a bitumen run to Dungog and had everyone settle before once again hitting the hardpacked dirt roads through to Barrington, Gloucestor and Lansdowne, where the gravel road started and was all the organisers had promised. For this day Adventure Rider Magazine had swapped to a 1250GSA, and to say life was good would be the understatement of the year so far. With the bike constantly working its way to the trail edges, continually threatening to understeer on the loose surface, roosting like a rocketship at every possibly opportunity and generally

Top: To say life was good riding the 25th GS Safari would be the understatement of the year so far.

Top right Wisemans Ferry to St Albans is familiar ground for Adventure Rider Magazine, and with good reason. The riding and scenery is sensational.

Middle right: Most off-roading was hard-packed dirt road. It was wide, comfortable, and allowed for some pace for those who wanted it.

Right: The Safari isn’t as demanding as the Safari Enduro. It’s designed to allow the GS range to show off at its best.

being a pleasure to pilot through the challenging section, we arrived at the Port Macquarie resort with a huge smile and not much tread left on the rear tyre.

It was fantastic.

It’s no mystery to us this ride is still going strong after 25 years.

So we heard

Leaving the GS Safari after only two days was bummer. The BMW team had promised some fantastic sections for the remaining three days, and hinted at a very special event in Armidale. The rumour was a street was to be closed off and a stunt rider would be given free rein to go wild in the city centre on a Beemer.

That would’ve been something to see.

Aside from spectacles of that nature was the promise of several days’ riding in the New England region, and Adventure Rider Magazine rates the area as one of

Australia’s

Still,

Top right: The ferry across to Port Macquarie was chocka with GS riders and bikes.

Right: Awesome views are a big part of any BMW ride.

Below: History on wheels on an historic occasion. Nice.

Green Valley Farm looked better than ever on a recent preride and visit.

Congregation 2019

Australia’s biggest, best and most popular adventurerider’s gathering is set for another huge weekend. No wait…it’s set for two huge weekends in 2019!

It’s all kinds of good news for the Adventure Rider Magazine Congregations this year.

As Erf-shattering as a straightthrough pipe on a TT550, the first revelation is that the WA Congregation is back.

Outstanding!

The west will once again reverberate to the crackling sound of campfires, the gentle murmurings of wellbehaved campers and the applause of appreciative riders as skills demos, presentations and superb trails are offered to all in attendance. Petra, Howard and Jason at Motorrad Garage are steering the Western Congregation this year, just as they did in 2017, so it’s guaranteed to be the biggest thing to happen in WA since Alan Bond

looked at Kalgoorlie, scratched his ’nads and thought, ‘I wonder if there’s gold out there?’

The Western Congregation happens on October 12 at Aroundtu-it caravan park at 9892 Muirillup Road, Northcliffe.

Plans are still being made, but you can stay up-to-date with info at advridermag.com.au or check the Motorrad Garage website.

Meanwhile

For the NSW Congregation the venue is, of course, Green Valley Farm (GVF) at Tingha, near Inverell in NSW, and the date is September 21.

It’ll be the fourth year in a row the Congregation has run at GVF, and that’s simply because the venue and location are so unbeatable.

The camping, catering and facilities are excellent, the Vickery family – owners of GVF – treat everyone at the Congregation like long-lost friends, and the riding throughout the whole New England area is absolutely fantastic.

Why would the event go anywhere else?

On a recent recce Adventure Rider Magazine found the New England region to be in a bit of a dry spell, but GVF itself was in fabulous shape. A quick blast around the area took in a few of the regular sights, like Copeton Dam, a visit to Vince Strang’s dealership in Inverell and a sensationally smooth coffee at Bundarra store. All those things will be available to

NSW Congregationers in 2019, as will a jam-packed program of events, including the usual skills demos, talks from industry bigwigs and, of course, a bigger-thanall-outdoors gymkhana.

That’s for those who want an active Saturday. There’s plenty of time and space for those who want to just sit around talking about bikes and adventure riding.

That’s the point of the gathering after all.

In case you missed the details, the NSW Congregation is on September 21 at Green Valley Farm, Tingha, NSW. The cabins are booking fast, but you can cross

your fingers and try your luck when you register – because to attend the 2019 NSW Congregation you must register with Green Valley Farm before the event. To do that, call GVF on (02) 6723 3370, or email on vickeryclan@activ8.net.au.

Get all the updates and important bits and pieces at http://www.advridermag. com.au/congregation-events-2019/ or on the Adventure Rider Magazine facebook page.

Top left: Cabins are booking fast. Ask about availability at registration. Remember, you must register with Green Valley Farm before the event. Call GVF on (02) 6723 3370, or email on vickeryclan@activ8.net.au.

Below: Copeton Dam is a gentle 60km or so from Green Valley Farm and well worth a look.

Bottom: Motorrad Garage is in charge in West Aussie again, so it’ll be the highlight of 2019 for sure.

Rainbows and unicorns

Sean Goldhawk grabbed his camera and hit the dirt for the RideADV Women’s Only Adventure Ride.

There are more similarities than differences between a standard adventure ride and an all-women event. A police detective, aboriginal services officer, insurance dispute resolution specialist and lawyer, among others, lobbed up at Timbertown’s Bago Tavern on the NSW mid-north coast for pub grub and a rider’s briefing.

New friends were quickly made over a schooner or three and talk turned to bikes, gear and previous rides. It could’ve been any run-of-the-mill adventure ride – with one obvious key difference.

A good run

Killer scenery and epic trails are hallmarks of the area, but what lingered in the

memory longest was a trip to the beach where dirtbike boots and adventure suits were favoured over bikinis and towels as riders ploughed their bikes into the thick coastal sand north of Port Macquarie. The sand challenge – or Rainbow And Unicorn Alley as it was dubbed –formed part of the second Women Only Adventure Ride (WOAR) organised by

Words and images: Sean Goldhawk

Greg Yager and his capable RideADV crew. The optional sections offered a challenge even for bush-hardened veterans – as sweep rider Chicken found out when he binned his Ténéré 660 in the sand. Ali also went down in the soft stuff on her XT250, tweaked her leg and required a trip to the hospital, but that was the only incident during the 600km ride.

Good company

So far, so familiar. We needed to know more, so having already run one women-only ride, we asked Yager about the differences he’d noticed.

“No egos is the big one,” said Greg. “There are no races to be won and the girls just get along at a fair pace. And they listen better than blokes. If we warn them there’s a tricky section and the bigger

bikes might prefer to ride around, everyone on a big bike rides around.

“Riding within your limits is something women understand better too. So running these women-only rides creates less stress than the standard adventure rides we organise,” explained Yager. “The women cover big distances with no fuss. But it’s a bit more difficult getting them started after a coffee-and-cake stop,” he joked.

You can add to that an even greater spirit of mateship. Camaraderie is a feature of a standard RideADV ride, but

on these women-only events the warm-and-fuzzies multiply. Shouts of encouragement help each other through the technical sections, followed by excited debriefs at the regroup. The bench-racing game is strong. And the pace is fast...if not furious. Skill levels are mixed but generally high, trail etiquette is impeccable and the average speed ends up the same as a standard RideADV tour. No-one overcooks a corner or spears off into the bush, no doubt because many have received some level of formal adventure-riding instruction, whether it’s with BMW GS u

Off-Road Training (Becky) or Yamaha’s Academy Of Off-Road (Joann).

Tall stories

From a rider’s perspective, the advantages to riding in an all-girl group are many, although to most it comes

down to one factor: fun.

Sure, there’s no requirement for anyone to finish first or to clear a hillclimb, so the pressure is not only off, it’s never on. As RideADV’s motto states, ‘it’s your ride and your adventure’.

Tall riders are generally unaware that

seat height is key for those less endowed in the leg department. This ride saw a few XT250s – with an 810mm seat height – taller WR250Rs which included two RideADV hire bikes, a Honda CRF250 Rally, a Husky 701, a Suzuki DR650 –ridden by Adventure Rider Magazine

what to exPeCt on a women only aDventure riDe

8 Bystanders staring in amazement. Yes, women do ride dirt bikes

8 Waving at children. A lot

8 ‘Comfort stops’

8 ‘We brake for cake! And coffee!’

8 No egos or ‘bigger and faster is better’

8 Respectful and considerate riding

8 Dancing corner-woman system

8 Assistance, encouragement and co-operation

8 Rainbow And Unicorn technical sections – renaming helps conquer the fear

Check out www.rideadv.com.au for details for the next WOAR.

columnist Karen Ramsay – and a collection of BMW F650/700GS twins. Yager specialises in kitting out adventureready WR250Rs and if he sees a rider struggling on a bigger bike will offer his own ride to sample. Becky took up the offer and swapped her BMW F700GS for most of the second day, refusing to give it back.

“Even for more capable riders, the smaller, lighter 250Rs are fun in the bush,” explained Yager. “They can go harder for longer, and when the inevitable happens they are so much easier to pick up.”

However, out of the crate the WR250R has a tall 930mm seat height, and arriving at one stop Becky’s legs made her seem like a sleeping dog chasing a rabbit as she searched for the WR’s sidestand.

Great riding

The lighter bikes came into their own as the ocean loomed into view and the trails turned soft. In the true spirit of adventure, most gave the beach access a red-hot go and either made the short hop to the wet sand or fell, laughed, got up and gave it another go. If

encouragement alone could’ve got them through, they would all have cleared it on the first attempt.

The Rainbow And Unicorn sections were eventually mastered – or mistressed – and no doubt will prove a popular feature in future WOAR rides. As Kat said: “The challenging sections are what

really build your confidence. I just want to keep riding them to really get the hang of it. Then I want to learn how to drift the back end...”

With more events like this, good skills are guaranteed to get better. If there’s a better way to spend the day than adventure riding, let us know.

‘backin’ it in’ Late braking and

Learning how to brake effectively is a massive part of riding a bike. It’s a skill that takes a long time to learn and can be the difference between keeping the bike upright or not.

Riders with a very high level of front-brake control can brake later and harder, and with a little bit of technique some can drift the back wheel sideways into a corner to get the bike turned early. ‘Backing it in’ is spectacular, a lot of fun and it can be a very effective way of controlling a bike into corners in specific situations. For sure, many new bikes come with ABS, which is a nice safety net for beginners but also for experienced riders in emergency braking situations. But having your own internal ABS

system tuned to a high level is a very important part of riding, especially high-performance riding. Most people learn how to skid the rear wheel early on and have a bit of fun in the process. The front is another story, and many people’s first front-wheel lock up turns into a pretty sudden stack. Bikes loose stability very quickly when the front wheel locks. The handlebars start turning, balance deteriorates and it can be a very sudden impact with the ground soon after.

Developing skills

In my 20 years coaching riders, teaching braking control is one of the most important and fun aspects of any training. Developing the skill of locking the rear brake and controlling the bike in various situations is always fun. Then, learning how to lock the front wheel at quite low speeds while maintaining control can be quite daunting, but it’s surprisingly achievable for most riders, even those who may initially think it’s beyond their skill level. Once

Right: You can use timing and precise throttle control to turn the braking drift into a powerslide to finish the turn.

Left: ‘Backing it in’ is spectacular, a lot of fun, and it can be a very effective way of controlling a bike into corners in specific situations. Miles raced a bit of supermoto, including a national championship and as a wildcard in the world championship round at Broadford almost 20 years ago. u

Miles turns a corner.

miles Davis

miles Davis

you can lock either wheel you can also understand better how to not lock the wheels. Like anything, practice makes perfect, so don’t stop fine tuning your braking skills. It could end up saving your life.

Grip levels

Understanding grip levels is another huge part of controlling a bike and this again takes a long time to master. Dirt, gravel, road, clay, grass, dry, wet…it can be so easy for riders with less skill to get it wrong, and even with a lot of experience you really need to be on your toes. When you’re close to the limit, having a high level of braking skill and experience is a huge benefit.

Corner entry speed

I’ve already mentioned ABS. The technology has been around for a long time, but like any technology it continues to improve. But it doesn’t matter if you have the best ABS, if you go into a corner way too fast you’ll be in trouble. My point is, you can’t go fast around a slow corner, so picking your corner

entry speed is a hugely important skill. Once you get good at reading corners and setting a safe entry speed you can start dancing with the devil to see if you can brake later and harder. The best place to learn this is doing laps of a grass track or motocross track on a smaller bike. Lap by lap you can play with your braking markers and if you get it wrong the consequences are not as bad as on dirt or tar roads.

Backin’ it in

Once you have your braking skills at a high level you may choose to start to

explore the mysterious technique of backing the bike into the corner. Some riders get it wrong and lock up the back wheel. That isn’t what it’s all about. For sure you can lock up the rear at low speeds to manoeuvre, but at higher speeds more finesse is needed to get the bike to drift into the apex. It really helps when the surface is nice and consistent, like many dirt roads with a layer of fine gravel. If the surface has a mix of embedded rock and patches of gravel it’s really difficult, so learn to understand where the technique makes sense and where it doesn’t. You need to turn off the ABS for the rear wheel, or all together, depending on your bike.

The art

A lot has to happen seamlessly for the bike to back in smoothly. The following points are what I think are the key ways to under-

Above: Developing the skill of locking the rear brake and controlling the bike in various situations is always fun.

Left: The best place to learn is doing laps of a grass track on a smaller bike.

stand how to piece it together:

8 Braking late and hard will provide a strong weight transfer onto the front wheel, which makes the rear of the bike nice and light. Your body position can be standing or seated depending on the situation. When the braking forces are high you need to brace yourself into the ’bars

8 Line selection is a big part of the art. Picking the time, while braking quite hard, to steer and arc into the apex is key to letting the unweighted rear wheel step out and drift the bike sideways into the corner

8 Downshifting is part of the art. Use the gearbox to give a nice engine-braking effect

8 Clutch control is part of the art, sometimes feathering the clutch between downshifts (not just letting it out all the way in one motion). This can smooth things out and help avoid hopping that can happen on grippier surfaces

8 Using the rear brake very precisely is part of the art, too. It combines with engine braking to get the back wheel to drift without locking the wheel, and

8 Trail braking is part of the art, learning how to very gradually and precisely reduce front-brake pressure all the way to the apex.

You can play on gravel surfaces or you can play on the road where grip levels are high (but so are the consequences). It’s a balance of being confident, aggressive in terms of the lateness of braking, but also very smooth and precise in combining the above points.

Locking up the back wheel doesn’t have the same effect because the bike becomes unbalanced and doesn’t drift smoothly. Executed properly, the back wheel is both turning and skidding at the same time (bike speed is higher than rear-wheel speed), so having great rear-brake feel is crucial.

It’s not for everyone

Learning and developing braking skills is important. Learning how to back it in isn’t so important, but it’s a nice challenge and a bit of fun for riders with a very high level of brake feel. Its also an effective way to control/slow down a bike when confronted with a tight corner, or a corner with a decreasing radius. To get a better visualisation get on Youtube and watch some dirt track or supermoto races. There are also some Moto2 and MotoGP riders who back it in.

But wait, there’s more!

Once you’re consistently backing it into corners to get the bike turned early, you can use timing and precise throttle control to turn the braking drift into a powerslide to finish the turn.

For me, this is one of the ultimate feelings on a bike. You can do this on any bike, but I have the most fun on a 1200GS in prime conditions. The torque of the boxer engine and the low centre of gravity can provide a huge amount of feel and you can sometimes back in the bike 10, 20 or 30 metres before a corner, then use the grunt to purr the big machine out of the corner sideways. Keep practicing the basics and keep it safe!

facebook.com/andy.strapz

II

Australia’s saddle bags continue to evolve

Run what yer brung adventure

Does the bike define the discipline? Andy’s not so sure.

Ithink I’ve spent too much time inside my own helmet lately and allowed my few remaining neurons to wander into odd philosophical concepts.

Is there a difference between a motorcycle taken on an adventure and an ‘adventure bike’? Can adventure bikes lose the title if used to commute? And vice versa; does a commuter bike taken to Birdsville necessarily then become an adventure bike?

I’ve seen Postie bikes way out past the black stump. That has to be an adventure. Banging along on a heel-and-toe-change rattler that, wrung flat out, might reach 80kph is certainly adventurous (or mad).

Ponder this: is the eccentricity of the rider and bike directly proportional to the unsuitability of the mount? I’m sure most of you have met Claude and his ancient Matchless. He pops up everywhere.

Top: Heath Botica’s entry in the Oreti Beach Races in Southland, NZ.

Left: Is the eccentricity of the rider and bike directly proportional to the unsuitability of the mount?

Right: Banging along on a heel-and-toe-change rattler that, wrung flat out, might reach 80kph is certainly adventurous (or mad).

A few years ago we set up a young P plater on a small sports tourer who did the Birdsville Track and the Flinders Ranges as part of a grand tour. No problem!

Riding a 125cc ‘UAM’ (Ubiquitous Asian Motorcycle) in Hanoi traffic is wildly adventurous, and in the ‘Viet bush’ it’s sublime.

At the other end of the spectrum is Old Mate ‘All Gear No Idea’ sat at the café with his riding buddy ‘Spray-can Mud’. They have massive ‘Adventure Bikes’ worth a king’s ransom with matching suits and helmets, and there’s not a scratch to be seen. But, who’s to say their adventure is any less valid than ‘Hi-Speed Simpson’ and ‘DR Scruffy’?

Looking back, the old tank-change clunkers must have spent most of their time on dirt roads, and as there was no other alternative, no one made any

distinction between what sort of a ride they were on…if they started!

Our Euro ’lations are buying adventure bikes by the lorry load and rarely get to ride roadworks, let alone dirt roads. As they’re the major market, we get what they want to some extent: very roadbased bikes in the main. To the designer’s credit they’ve been able to create bikes that do an admirable job both on black top and rough, unsealed goat tracks. What I’m getting at is the ancient motorcycling concept of ‘Run What Yer Brung’ – a creed that started the dualsport then adventure-riding sub-specialties, spawning famous events like the TTT Rally. I used to beg, borrow or blag a different bike each year for some time. I rode a Harley, a CX650, a Honda 4, my beloved Cagiva Elefant and an old R100 before we’d coined the term adventure bikes. The road in these days is much more civilised than the early days, and riding an ETZ 250 MZ in was always an adventure

The point is, surely, it’s the activity we engage in not the bike we do it on. What place does style over substance have in our adventure-riding world?

Have a look at the pic of Heath Botica’s entry in the Otreti Beach Races in Southland, NZ, this February just gone.

Definitely a ‘Run What Ya Brung’ situation!

Does the bike define the discipline? Is Andy right about the activity being more relevant than the bike?

Email: tom@maynemedia.com.au and we’ll make sure Andy knows what you think.

Good thinking

Karen Ramsay

innovates, adapts and overcomes.

Words: Karen Ramsay

For all the people spending on farkles, repairs and accessories there’s just as many going with DIY options. Some may call it penny pinching, others might call it problem solving, but whatever name you give to it, ‘hacks’ can be pretty ingenious.

Basically hacks are solutions or work-arounds and can be divided into four main categories: necessity, innovation, multipurposing, and tightarse. From simple ones like rolling your clothes instead of folding them or carrying a moisturiser that also doubles as sunscreen and can be used to lube the tyre when you get a flat, there’s so many amazing ideas out there we should be sharing them.

I’m not recommending you try any of these hacks; I just wanted to share a small snippet of the ingenuity of adventure riders.

Spilled milk

The first hack falls into the penny-pinching category.

Dave and I keep saying one day we’ll get ourselves some good-quality pannier bags, and the main reason we haven’t is probably because our hack is working really well.

What we have is a 20-litre Aldi dry bag which sits in a 20-litre, square-based oil drum cut on the diagonal and bolted to the pannier racks. It’s tied on with a strap and a couple of occy straps and is simple, cheap and works well. They’re quite resilient and waterproof, and I’ve tested them with a number of drops in various conditions – rocks, rivers, sand –and they’re still going strong.

Friends Kylie and Greg have been riding for years but are fairly recent converts to adventure riding. They have a number of hacks, including a common one

Above: Karen’s luggage rig made up of Aldi bags and plastic drums.

Below: Kylie’s multipurpose wire rope. It’s about three metres long with a loop and a good-quality carabiner at each end. It can be used to lock up bikes, as a clothes line or, in the event of a breakdown, a tow rope.

involving panniers and containers. They’ve got Andy Strapz bags and they’ve put a 20-litre plastic jerry can with the top cut off and a rope handle in each. The genius in this is when they pack the

jerry cans at home, they then pop them into the panniers knowing they’ll fit every time. It also means when they’re setting up camp or staying in a pub they can grab the containers out of the panniers

and have them handy without having to take off the entire bag. They double as a bucket and can help protect things if the bike has a lay down…although that theory apparently didn’t work on a particularly rough track with a packet of biscuits and a litre of longlife milk.

Fun and games

Some hacks are as simple as multiple uses for a single item. Left: Cutting the handles off a trolley left a grid which zip-tied over the DRZ rack and kept the panniers off the exhaust.

Kylie and Greg have another great hack that qualifies on that front. They carry a length of stainless-steel wire rope on their trips. It’s about three metres long with a loop and a good-quality carabiner at each end. They can use it to lock their bikes up, as a clothes line or, in the event of a breakdown, a tow rope. When she started to tell me how they use it in their tent I had to stick my fingers in my ears and go to my happy place.

Saw point

Necessity is the mother of invention and I’ve heard about a couple of hacks that fit that bill.

While Marty (aka Big Dog) was travelling in Nepal, he picked up a pink, double-plugger thong he saw laying on the road. Who knows why, but he reckoned it might come it handy. Guess who had the last laugh when his rack broke halfway into his trip? He simply cable tied the thong under the rack to keep it level and continued the journey. Meg had a problem with her bags touching the exhaust on her DRZ400. She bought one of those hand trolleys, hacksawed off the handles and wheels, then cable tied it to the bike rack. The base of the trolley sat between the exhaust and bags, stopping them from burning.

Bootful

My final hack stemmed from an embarrassing incident involving a wet day, undressing and a couple

of grunting men.

At the end of a particularly rainy day, as you do, I went to remove my drenched bike gear. When I got to my boots, it proved difficult. Wet boots are always a bit hard to get off – they seem to create some sort of vacuum.

‘No problem,’ I thought. I’d just try a bit harder. Still no luck.

I persevered for a while. Asking for help to remove boots felt a bit hopeless, but finally there didn’t seem to be a lot of alternatives. I attached myself to a verandah pole while Dave grabbed hold of the boot, shoeing-a-horse style, with no success. Before Dave dislocated my hip, Nigel came over to lend a hand. By then I was beginning to get a bit anxious I’d have to either cut off the boot or wear it for the rest of my life.

Which is how I came to find myself on my back with two grunting men. They were both pulling on the boot and levering against my nether regions while I wasn’t sure whether to laugh or cry. It was like some sort of anti-Cinderella moment. “Quick! The stepsister has jammed the glass slipper on her foot! Get it off before the prince comes!”

When it did come off we found that, as well as being wet, the lining

in the boot was all torn around the heel. That was the reason it was so hard to get off.

I needed a solution so I could ride the next day. All sorts of ideas were put forward then Nigel suggested a plastic bag. A shopping bag slipped into the boot allowed the inning and outing of my foot with ease. The whole foot doesn’t go in the bag, it sits at the back of the heel in the same position you’d put a shoe horn. This happened quite a few months ago but I’m still using it because it’s working fine and the money I’m saving on new boots is money I can spend elsewhere.

If you don’t know someone who has an adventure-riding hack using lawnmower handles, legs off fold-up chairs or a tin can, it’s time to get out more.

what i’ve learned

R You never know what might come in handy

R Nobody wants to know what Kylie and Greg do with their wire and red-light headlamp in their tent

R Just about everyone has a great hack

R Laying on your back saying, ‘Pull harder!’ isn’t always rude

R Money saved with hacks = money for fuel and more adventures

Got any great hacks to share? Email your ideas, with pics, to tom@maynemedia.com.au and we’ll share them.

Above and right: Andy Strapz bags with cut-down 20-litre plastic jerry cans with rope handles. Good protection for the luggage, and the jerries mean not having to remove the Expedition Pannierz for overnight stops.

Checkout

More comfort. More safety. More Adventure!

Premium Dr650 Polyurethane Drive cushions

Excessively worn dampers can cause the cush-hub bearing to fail which can ruin the DR650 sprocket carrier.

R Fits DR650 1996 to current

R Polyurethane has a higher abrasion-, cut-, and tear resistance than rubber

R Better resistance to chemical breakdown

R Longer life and better damping compared to the rubber counterpart

R Sold as a set of six rubber dampers

RRP: $79.95 plus postage

Available from: Adventure Bike Australia Web: adventurebikeaustralia.com.au

macna imbuz jacket

Waterproof and styled to impose.

R Super comfortable, abrasion-resistant, 500D polyester

motoPressor cliP-on 90-Degree valve extension

Attach the chuck to the Motopressor pump hose for easy access to tyre valves.

R Remove valve cap

R Press the silver lever on the chuck

R Push it firmly onto the tyre valve and release the lever

R Inflate the tyre

R Press the silver lever and the chuck will pop off

R Don’t leave the valve extension on the valve as it will unbalance the wheel

RRP: $19.95 plus postage and handling

Available from: Rocky Creek Designs and all good motorcycle stores through Pro Accessories Web:

R Comfort mesh with detachable Raintex, 100-per-cent waterproof membrane liner

R Shoulder Safetech CE level 2, elbow Safetech CE level 1, CE back-protector prepared, fitted with 12mm EVA foam back pad

R Hoody holder, air vents chest and back, rear belt loop, Zipgrip, straps on waist and cuff, coat hanger loop and easy cuff light

R Available in blue/yellow or green/black

R Men’s sizes S - 3XL.

RRP: $429.95

Available from: Selected stockists Web: macnaridinggear.com.au

x. WeD2 helmet

Awesome new colours for one of the editor’s favourite helmets.

R Now with new DUNA graphics

R Available in three different sizes (shell 1: S, shell 2: M-L and shell 3: XL to XXL)

R New peak with more air flow, less noise and less vibration

R Top ventilation with three positions, easy to operate with gloves on

R Upgraded emergency-release cheek pads

R Chin windstopper with more secure fixing

R New chin vent

RRP: $649.95 – $699.95

Available from: Bike shops

Web: ctaaustralia.com.au

anDy

straPz bmW F850gs

soFt-Pannier

suPPort Frames

Made specifically for Avduro Panniers where the seat supports the weight.

R Carefully webbed and braced

R Light – frames and fittings 1.7kg

R A doddle to fit

R Designed to look like they belong to the bike

R Made from mild steel

R Powdercoated satin black with stainless bolts

R Will work with other soft panniers

RRP: $385 plus freight

Available from: Andy Strapz

Phone: (03) 9786 3445

Email: info@andystrapz.com

Web: andystrapz.com

gPr stabilizer

Take control of the side-to-side motion of the handlebars.

R Lightweight mounting brackets and all in-house prototyping ensure a proper fit

R Bolt on application – no drilling into top clamp or frame

R The V4 Prokit option has the lowest profile damper set-up on the market

R Shorter fluid ports, new valving, quicker reaction to high speeds

R Compact and slim design

R Billet-aluminium, machined ‘bar mounts and machined-steel frame mounts with stainless-steel pin

R Pro Kits have black, anodised, machined triple clamp

RRP: Starting from $770

Available from: Bike shops and GPR

Web: gpraustralia.com.au

rukka stretchDry

For both on and off road.

R 100-per-cent breathable, windand waterproof Goretex twolayer laminated to polyester shell fabric

R Abrasion-resistant 500D cordura reinforcements on shoulders and elbows

R Goretex Flex2Fit panels

R Ventilation openings with zipper and mesh inserts

R Two lower pockets with zippers

R Timecard pocket with zipper on the left sleeve end

R No protectors included

RRP: Jacket $570. Trousers $510

Available from: Innotesco Web: innotesco.com.au

Whites Portable tyre inFlator

For emergency tyre inflation and handy to have around the garage.

R Accurate tyre-pressure gauge

R Power: 100W

R Maximum pressure: 100psi

R 0 to 35psi in 10 minutes

R Three-metre cable length

R 110mm hose length

R 132mm x 114mm x 46mm

RRP: $34.90

Available from: Your local dealer Web: whitesmoto.com.au/ View-A-Product/ID/30306

motoz tractionator rallz

Now available in tubeliss and tube type, 10 per cent road/90 per cent off-road.

R Based on the popular Tractionator Adventure but with more aggressive off-road traction in all weather extremes

R Off-road performance with reasonable on-road manners

R Tested and proven construction and compound for adventure and rally use

R Self-cleaning and self-sharpening tread pattern

R Designed in Australia for dependable performance in a wide variety of conditions without the need to change tyre pressures between off-road and on-road

R Excellent choice for outback desert to coastal forests and fire trails

R Hybrid compound with Silica for optimum grip in mud and snow

R RallZ also available in a range of tubetype adventure sizes for lightweight adventure bikes

RRP: Tubeliss fronts $159. Tubeliss rears $269.95.

Tube-type front $139.95.

Tube-type rear $169.95

Available from: Your local dealer

rev’it! sanD 3 gloves

Designed to align with the Sand 3 adventure suit.

R Tanned leather made from goatskin is extremely durable

R Air stretch mesh fabric combined with a stretch yarn

R PWR shield knit gives cut-, tear- and abrasion resistance

R TPR flexible ventilated knuckles

R TPR palm slider

R Connect fingertip developed specifically to operate touchscreens

RRP: $149

Available from: REV’IT! Australia

Web: revitaustralia.com.au

zac sPeeD comP2 backPack

Light weight and minimal construction.

R CoreFlex dynamic expansion race harness

R YKK zips

R Two-litre and three-litre options

R Fully CONFIGR8 compatible

R Neoprene insulation bladder carrier

R Low-profile Hydrapak bladder system with magnetic hose-attach mount

R Quick-release hose

R Moulded EVA back panel

Email: Info@zacspeed.com

Available from: www.zacspeed.com.au

Web: www.zacspeed.com.au

touratech zega evo Panniers

The new generation of Touratech’s legendary aluminium pannier system.

R Combines the robustness of its predecessors with more convenient handling

R Completely new mounting mechanism

R Made using high-strength, 1.5-millimetre thick aluminium

R World-first terrain-proof mounting and locking mechanism

R Rounder design of fasteners

R Pre-installed fastening hooks on the inside of the lid

R Outside of the lid is equipped with high-strength attachment eyes

R Available in anodised black or silver in 31/38/45 litres

RRP: From $1150 Web: www.touratech.com.au

rev’it!

sanD 3 jacket

Ready for adventure.

R Seeflex level 2 CE protection

R Prepared for Seesoft CE level 2 back protector insert – type RV

R Detachable Hydratex 3L, breathable, 100-per-cent waterproof liner

R Long and double short connection zipper

R VCS zips in strategic positions

R Zipped venting offers excellent air flow

RRP: $739

Available from: AdventureMoto

enDuristan blizzarD saDDle bags

Fits any enduro or adventure bike and doesn’t need a rack.

R Two rows of cargo loops to attach additional gear

R Two interfaces to attach fender bags (size M and L only)

R Deluxe shoulder strap available separately

R Easy fastening, quick removal

R Distance between bags adjustable

R Fore-aft placement fully adjustable

R No flapping straps

R Washable and easy to clean

RRP: $407

Available from: Motorcycle Adventure Products Web: motorcycleadventure.com.au

nitro mx670 uno Dvs helmet

Tailored for adventure riders looking to travel distances in comfort.

R Latest ECE 22.05 standard compliant

R MPT (multi poly tech) constructed MX shell

R Adjustable DVS (dual visor system)

R Fully adjustable chinbar and top ventilation

R Dual rear exhaust vent

R Injection-moulded 3D visor with anti-scratch coating

R Ultra comfort fit fully removable and washable liner

R Anatomic luxury fitted cheekpads and comfort lining

RRP: $199

Available from: All leading motorcycle dealerships Web: nitrorider.com.au

venture heat heateD jacket liner

Reduce all those layers and control your body temperature with electric heating panels.

R Six heating panels

R Three temperature settings

R Built-in controller

R Control your heat from the ’bars with the optional wireless controller

R Plugs into the bike for endless heat

R Pre-wired cables in the sleeves for heated gloves

R Lightweight and slim to fit under any jacket

R Soft, flexible heating panels

RRP: $259

Available from: Zarkie and stockists Web: zarkie.com.au

o’neal sierra WP boots

Developed for enduro and adventure riders.

R Waterproof and water-resistant

R Full rubber outsole with special anti-slip design

R Shock-absorbing, nine-millimetre, EVA insole with anti-perspiration fabric

shaD Pin system

Secures the tank bag to the motorcycle in a safe and easy way.

R Original fuel cap screws are replaced with the discrete ‘pins’

R Installation very simple and done in only a few minutes

R Engineered to integrate a light and thin mounting mechanism inside the tank bag

R Compatible with over 180 motorcycles

Full-grain cow leather upper material, reinforced with thermoplastic and non-woven material

Kevlar microfibre laminated with six-millimetre EVA

Available from: Moto National Accessories Web: shadaustralia.com.au All Held Goretex gloves come with a five-year warranty

RRP: $290

Available from: Held Australia Phone: (02) 9719 8890 Web: heldaustralia.com.au

alPinestars c-1 v WinDstoPPer glove

Another of the editor’s favourites.

Convenient for urban riding and commuting.

R Lightweight, windproof and water-resistant city riding glove constructed from a Goretex Windstopper main shell

R Incorporates extended full‐grain leather reinforcements on palm and thumb

R Over-moulded hard knuckle protection

R Integrated foam padding on fingers and thumb

R New cuff with hook-and-loop closure

R Touch-screen compatible fingertip on index finger for use with GPS systems and smart phones

R CE-certified (CAT II Level 1)

R Sizes: 56 – 66

RRP: $99.95

ovix kzi-150 cable With Disc lock aDaPter

A barrier against theft. Stainless-steel adapter 150cm steel loop cable Perfect for helmet and luggage lock-up

Compatible with Kovix KAL6, KDL6 and KAZ10 disc-lock series Original Kovix accessory

Available from: All motorcycle stores Web: monzaimports.com.au

raD guarD 2019 bmW r1250gs anD gsa raDiator guarD set

An essential aftermarket part.

R Easy to fit

R Allows adequate airflow in the radiator’s core, so cooling temperature is not compromised

R Made from aircraft-grade aluminium

R Available in black and polished alloy

R Three-year worldwide warranty

R Australian made

RRP: $259. On special for $184

Available from: Rad Guard Phone: (02) 6658 0060

Web: radguard.com.au

RRP: $29.95 including GST

Available from: Pro Accessories Web: proaccessories.com.au

komine jj-003 mesh touring jacket

High-end touring jacket from a company with a 70-year history.

R CE-certified elbow and shoulder protectors

R Air through honeycomb back protector and chest guard

R Add a waterproof and/or insulated liner –optional neck brace

R 3D mesh where protectors are to reduce sweat

R Men’s and women’s sizing

R Made in Tokyo

RRP: $465

Available from: Zarkie

Web: zarkie.com.au

airoh commanDer helmet

New Duo graphic now available. Particularly suited for an all-terrain, all-round riding experience.

R Two different configurations: with or without peak and visor

R High-performance composite (HPC) shell in two sizes

R Extra-wide visor with integrated Pinlock lens

R Three-point ventilation system

R Aerodynamic peak

R Retractable sun visor

R Opportunity to connect Bluetooth systems

R Available in sizes S-XXL and colours: matt black; carbon red gloss; carbon yellow or carbon orange

RRP: From $599.95

Available from: AdventureMoto Web: adventuremoto.com.au

b&b aFrica tWin luggage racks anD Plates

Quality aluminium racks to satisfy the personal needs of adventure riders.

R B&B rear luggage plate and mini rear rack

R B&B Big Tour luggage plate with maxi rear rack

R B&B maxi rear luggage plate

R B&B rear luggage plate mini

R Racks/plates are made from quality, fivemillimetre aluminium 5083 plate

R Tough kit that will serve well over the long term

R Finishes are in polished aluminium or powder-coated black

RRP from $90 to $250

Available from: Adventure Motorcycle Equipment Phone: 1300 883 908 Website: www.adventuremotorcycle.com.au

DririDer c2 men’s aDventure boot

DriRider’s always good gear at a great price.

R Full-grain leather and water-repellent suede upper

R Waterproof and breathable lining

R D3O internal ankle protectors (CE EN13634)

R TPU gear-change pad

R Antibacterial, replaceable footbed

R Antitwist and puncture-resistant midsole

R Adventure all-terrain vulcanised rubber sole

R Available in black or brown. Black sizes 40-48. Brown sizes 39-48

RRP: $259.95

Available from: Your local motorcycle dealer Dealer enquiries phone: McLeod Accessories 1300 300 191

Motorrad Garage BMW F850Gs

BMW’s 850GS is whooping serious freckle. Motorrad Garage has some top-shelf kit for the new midweight adventurer. Log on to www.motorradgarage.com.au to grab the gear and to search Motorrad Garage’s stock of great gear for all the adventure bikes.

Pack Your Gear On The Rear

ION S/M/L (7L - 50L)

• New ION rear bag range, available in 3 sizes

• Universal fit, easily straps to the rear of most bikes

• Use of durable cam buckles and loop straps

• Anti-slip base gives bags good grip

URBAN ABS (16L - 29L)

• Light weight, but robust top case

• Available in a strapped or mountable version

• Lockable, fits a helmet when expanded

ADVENTURE TOURING AND BEYOND

Lightness, comfort and adaptability reach the highest technological level.

4 different configurations possible, simply by removing the redesigned peak and the ultra-panoramic visor.

The lightweight construction of the Carbon+Aramid+Glass fiber shell provides AGV ultimate safety standards.

Moisture wicking and water-resistant premium interiors enable unlimited comfort for the entire journey. Follow your path, ride beyond it.