Introducing the heritage-inspired Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 and Continental GT 650, with an all new parallel twin engine. So pick your play. from $9,790 ride away
SOUTHERN
IBN BATTUTA
Editor Stuart Woodbury
Contributing Editor J Peter Thoeming
Sales Manager Ralph Leavsey-Moase ralph@ausmotorcyclist.com.au
Photo Editor Nick Wood
Designer Amy Hale
Photographers Nick Wood Photography, Half-Light Photography
Contributors Robert Crick, Jacqui Kennedy, Robert Lovas, Boris Mihailovic, Chris Pickett, The Possum, Colin Whelan, Bob Wozga
Australian Motorcyclist Magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066 Phone 0412 220 680.
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We encourage you to keep or recycle this magazine.
EDITORSPEAKS Support
THE
FIRES
ACROSS THE
country have been devastating to say the least, but as you’ll read in this issue (thanks, Bob) we need to get out there and help these communities rebuild. As motorcyclists we’re pretty good at getting out into a lot of the areas that have been affected by fire. The roads are mostly fine and now is the time to get out there to spend some money. Every little bit helps – a sandwich at a café, some petrol and maybe a wander around the town you’re visiting to see if anything takes your fancy in the variety of shops. If you’re one of those affected by the fires, let us know, I’m sure there are plenty of our readers willing to give a hand if needed.
It had been quite hard to get out for a ride, but now that most of the roads are back open thanks to that liquid stuff falling from the sky – what’s it called again? - it’s time to enjoy that beautiful two-wheeled machine sitting in your garage. I recently headed up to Grey Gum Café which was luckily saved from the fires, everything around it was burnt, which makes for an eerie ride along the Putty Road. Kim did an amazing job at looking after all the emergency services throughout the period of the fires, as I’m sure there are many other wonderful stories from all of this devastation.
Now onto a more delightful note.
As you know, we try to focus a lot on travel. This issue looks at the Southern Hemisphere and the wonderful places you can go and experience on a motorcycle. If you’ve been somewhere in a car and revisit by motorcycle, you’ll know that it is a completely different way of seeing things – much more enjoyable if you ask me.
Three of my most memorable trips have been to the South Island in New Zealand. Thanks to Paradise Motorcycle Tours I was lucky to escort a full 11-day guided tour (our first AMM tour), then sample their hire-bike system and do a self-guided tour to the Burt Munro Challenge. The third time was with Metzeler doing their ‘Grand Tour’. The roads, the planning and ultimately the people whom I met on these rides are lifetime memories – thank you Paradise Motorcycle Tours and Metzeler.
NEWS
WHAT A CHAMPION!
The beginning of the year always marks the time when Dakar Rally kicks off. Held in Saudi Arabia for the first time, the 42nd edition of the event saw many challenges for all competitors.
Aussie Toby Price claimed an impressive third-place finish at the close of the final stage. With two stage wins during the course of the event, the outgoing champion showed outstanding pace, resolve and compassion, having come across the devastating crash of friend and competitor, Paulo Goncalves (who sadly died) and staying with him until he was airlifted out, causing Toby to lose a lot of time. Toby rode on with a heavy heart and made up time, being 24min 6secs from the lead after the final 12th stage. After following the event on the Dakar Rally website, we can say that Toby is the man of the meet for sure.
An amazing ride on his KTM 450 Rally machine.
WIN BIG!
Shannons is offering motoring enthusiasts the chance to win a 15-day trip for two to the 2021 Le Mans 24 Hours, one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious endurance car races. Plus, you’ll score an all new Indian FTR 1200 S motorcycle. All you need to do is get a quote and you’re in the draw, or take a new policy to get more entries! Jump onto shannons.com.au or call 1800 562 268.
40 YEARS STRONG
R race helmet to the cause. The helmet sold at auction for a staggering $18,000 with 100% of the proceeds going to the Bushfire relief fund.
It’s not often that a race helmet worn by a MotoGP superstar is made available,
For 40 years, Edelweiss Bike Travel has been traveling on two wheels and exploring together with its international guests the most beautiful corners in the world. In 1980, out of an initially crazy idea, the company Edelweiss Bike Travel was founded with much enthusiasm and commitment by Coral and Werner Wachter.
Of course, they cannot let this occasion go unnoticed. From the 24th to the 27th of September 2020 in Tyrol, and also from the 1st to the 4th of October 2020 in California, Edelweiss is holding two special tours. Aptly named – “40 passes
tour in the Alps”: 20 – 28 September 2020, and “Seeking curves in Death Valley in the USA”: 29 September – 07 October 2020, hurry and book your spot! worldtours@edelweissbike.com
MONEY WELL SPENT
With the bushfire crisis being felt right across Australia, MotoGP superstar Jack Miller donated his 2018 AGV Pista GP
and Jack Miller’s legion of fans were lining up for their chance to own this amazing piece of sporting memorabilia. Bids came from all over the globe, with Jack more than happy to sign the helmet or make it out to the winner, and provide photos of the helmet being worn during the MotoGP race at the Red Bull Ring in Austria.
The $18,000 raised has been donated to the NSW Rural Fire Brigade. Well done and thank you, Jack.
MORE MONEY WELL SPENT
And the amazing MotoGP memorabilia didn’t stop there, Casey Stoner auctioned off his first race winning suit, worn at Aragon in 2010, his first win of what was a difficult season, and a race at which he turned his fortunes around – something he hopes the money raised can do for Australia, with all funds raised donated to the Australian Red Cross.
“This suit, it’s pretty special to me, because there are a few suits that I want to keep to myself, and this one was worn at the circuit I went undefeated on, and it wasn’t one I was going to give away, but through the circumstances, for the people of Australia and everything they’ve gone through the last months, it’s definitely something I want to help out
with,” Casey said. Auctioned off through Pickles, the winning bid came in at $25,700. Well done and thank you, too, Casey.
BE UNIQUE
Want to be treated like a rock star at every track day you go to? Well, Kawasaki Motors Australia has very limited stock available of the racetrack only H2R for you to buy. This collector bike has huge levels of power and technology, and not to mention an aural
delight like no other. Race to your local Kawasaki dealer or email marketing@ kawasaki.com.au so they can direct you to the right person nearest to you.
SHARPEN
UP
The Adventure has begun for yet another year. If you would like to sharpen your skills and build your confidence, come and join Shane Booth, Chris Urquhart and the BMW Offroad Training Team at a course near you. Whether you would like to improve your skills and technique or build your knowledge on the amazing features that your adventure bike has to offer then this is for you. The team at BMW Offroad Training has worked hard to
fine tune all of the courses to suit your adventure riding needs.
UPCOMING COURSES:
February 20-23 Adventure Masterclass // Mt Seaview NSW $1695
February 25-26 Adventure Skills // Coulson QLD (Queensland Moto Park)
February 25-26 Adventure Expert // Coulson QLD (Queensland Moto Park)
February 28 Adventure Prep // Broadford VIC
February 29 - March 1 Adventure Skills // Broadford VIC
March 6 Adventure Prep // Dargle NSW
March 7-8 Adventure Skills // Dargle NSW
March 7-8 Adventure Expert // Dargle NSW
April 18-19 Adventure Skills // Bright VIC
April 24 Adventure Prep // Burleigh Heads QLD
April 30 Adventure Prep // Adelaide SA
May 1-2 Adventure Skills // Harrogate SA
May 3-4 Adventure Expert // Harrogate SA
May 14 Adventure Prep // Gundaroo NSW (Canberra)
May 15-16 Adventure Skills // Gundaroo, NSW (Canberra)
May 17-18 Adventure Expert // Gundaroo NSW (Canberra)
May 30-31 Adventure Sand // Noosa QLD
June 4-5 Adventure Sand // Pacific Park NSW
June 27-28 Adventure Expert // Bright VIC
For more information, jump onto gsoffroad.com.au
SAND OR SNOW
Triumph is pleased to announce two new very special Tiger 1200s, the Tiger 1200 Desert edition and Tiger 1200 Alpine edition. Inspired by some of the world’s most thrilling motorcycle adventures, these new motorcycles incorporate a unique high specification set-up and dedicated paint schemes. Apart from the great features, both bikes have a distinct colour -
‘Sandstorm’ paint scheme with dedicated ‘Desert Edition’ graphics for the Desert Edition, and ‘Snowdonia White’ paint scheme with dedicated ‘Alpine Edition’ graphics for the Alpine Edition. See your local Triumph dealer to order yours.
BE A PRO
Two new versions of the Ducati Scrambler 1100 are on their way. The Scrambler 1100 PRO and 1100 Sport PRO, both with unique character. 1100 PRO stands out for its new two-tone “Ocean Drive” colour scheme, combined with a steel Trellis frame and rear aluminium subframe, both black. The aluminium covers are also black. A new right-side dual tailpipe and low-slung plate holder ensure distinctive rear-end styling and, together with the new livery, give the bike a coiled, compact look. Another
hallmark is the framed headlight; inspired by the protective adhesive tape used back in the ‘70s, a black metal “X” has been incorporated inside the headlight -- a detail that makes the bike instantly identifiable, even with the lights off.
The Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport PRO is the beefiest version in the Scrambler family. It features all the styling details of the PRO, but also a unique equipment set with Öhlins suspension, low-slung handlebars and Café Racer rear-view mirrors. The 1100 Sport PRO also features a Matt Black colour scheme, complemented by side panels sporting a painted 1100 logo.
See your local Ducati dealer to place an order. D
In the tracks of Neil Young, the Bear takes a politically incorrect look at motorcycling in our hemisphere WORDS/PHOTOS the bear
Why take an organised tour?
If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.
South AfrIcAn proverb
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
Some years ago, we ran a survey to find out just which destinations really revved your engines. With one exception, the places you voted for were in the northern hemisphere; the exception being New Zealand. At the time, I didn’t think much of it. After all, the traditional motorcycle destinations like Route 66 and the Pacific Coast Highway in the US, the Alps, the Isle of Man and the Norwegian fjords were all up there. It was reasonable to find them the most popular. Since then, however, I’ve found so many wonderful destinations down here south (or nearly south) of the equator that I thought we’d better put together a bit of a feature to highlight them. Some will be familiar to you,
some may not – but they all offer a memorable experience. Let’s take a look at a few of the ones I have visited either off my own bat or with tour operators.
South AfricA
Let’s start with the most distant destination – southern Africa. It will take you a bit over 14 hours to reach Johannesburg, and there are connecting flights from there to just about anywhere else in southern Africa. There is a wide range of tours available in South Africa itself, which is the only place I’ve been over there –although Namibia is definitely on my bucket list. For one thing, they brew the best beer in southern Africa (possibly in all of Africa) in Windhoek called (not unreasonably) Windhoek Lager. There
are several other notable brands of brew from this small country, making it the home of brewing in Africa. The reason is simple – Namibia used to be a German colony so brewing was initially set up by the nationality (except probably the Czechs) who do it best. I’m getting sidetracked? Really? Sorry. South Africa itself offers a wonderful selection of scenery and riding. The Cape is an obvious choice with its cliffside roads, wineries and history. Both the Garden Route, which runs north along the eastern coast, and the inland desert tracks provide wonderful
Refreshment is where you find it. A coconut quenches your thirst better than a soft drink.
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
SOUTH AMERICA
examples of both riding and scenic travel. And of course you should take the opportunity to see the Big 5: elephants, lions, hippos, rhinos, leopards and buffalo. Wait, that’s six. Not hippos? The most dangerous big animal in Africa and it isn’t included? Sheesh.
The next furthest destination in the southern hemisphere which you can reach in one non-stop flight is South America: Santiago in Chile to be precise. Direct flights take about 12½ hours, but there are others which stop in Auckland, adding a couple of hours. Santiago makes a good base, and since Qantas has reorganized its flight times, you now arrive at a civilized hour for
connecting flights to just about anywhere else in the continent. I have seen quite a bit of Peru on a wonderful Compass tour which showed me not only the exciting road network – both tar and gravel –but also examples of both ancient and more recent (Spanish) historic places. Among other places we visited Lake Titicaca, Machu Picchu, Colca Canyon and the classic town of Arequipa which would have to be one of my favourite places in the entire world. This is where I first encountered a southern (not just South) American phenomenon: the supermodel policewoman. They’re just as tough as other coppers, but anyone interested
A winery in Franshoek, near Cape Town.
Scratching in the South African bush. Watch out for baboons.
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
in female beauty won’t mind being booked. Yes, yes, all right, I know I’m probably being sexist but what the hell. Back to the nitty gritty. You may well have an idea of the many attractions of South America, but believe me, there’s nothing quite like being there. Trying to breathe at nearly 5000 metres, for example, is an experience that you can’t really convey in writing.
SABAH (I’M CHEATING HERE)
Yes, Sabah is north of the equator but only a bit. And it’s part of the island of Borneo, which in turn is partly in the southern hemisphere. Can I get away with listing it here? Oh, thanks. Sabah, one of the states that make up Malaysia, is the original land of contrasts. It is a wealthy place, something that is reflected in the excellent road network (there’s also a terrific dirt track network) and the modern capital, Kota Kinabalu.
But there are remarkably traditional settlements over the Crocker Range from the western coast and many of the people live in relaxed, semi-tribal ways. Meanwhile, this Muslim state seems to have more catholic schools than Italy.
The abovementioned Crocker Range offers much of the excellent riding, and when you get tired of that – not likely, in my experience, but nevertheless – you can see orangutans in a rewilding park or smell the world’s most noxious flower. What
Batman is a bit down on his luck. He now runs a threewheeler taxi in Puno, Peru.
It’s hard to believe sometimes that the landscape was formed naturally
more could you ask for? I’ve explored Sabah with my friend Bryan Wade at Borneo Biking Adventures, and not only enjoyed the riding but also put on weight from the wonderful food.
PeNINSULar MaLaYSIa
(CheatING aGaIN)
It’s just north of the equator, but it’s also a cheap and easy destination with flights to Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, and offers everything from the MotoGP at Sepang to the trails of the Cameron Highlands and the north. Malaysia has quite a few superhighways: but while you’ll be pleased to note that bikes use them free although they’re toll roads, the back roads are still better if you’re on a motorcycle. Traffic can be a pain, but mainly in towns and if you look at it as part of the fun you’ll be alright. There is little traffic in the countryside.
The so-called ‘resorts’ along both coasts often offer reasonably priced accommodation and security for your bike, but please note that in the northeast especially, it’s going to be difficult to get a beer. Many Malaysians take their Islam seriously enough to refuse to not only drink but serve alcohol. Given Malaysia’s predominantly hot and humid climate, that’s a bummer.
SrI LaNKa
(and again – does this man have no shame?)
I’m including Sri Lanka for two reasons – firstly because it fits in with the other destinations listed here, being relatively close to Australia and accessible by the same sorts of flights in similar times, and secondly because I can. Who’s robbing this coach, you or Mr Kelly?
My trip to Sri Lanka with my friend Michael Rohan Sourjah showed me the advantages of travelling with a local. Rohan was born and raised in Sri
1. Sabah has excellent roads, even though they’re washed away every now and then.
2.The food is simply wonderful, with fresh ingredients and skillful use of spices
3. Look, motorcyclists!
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
Lanka, and is something of a legend as a rugby player there. His Serendib Motorcycling Adventures will give you an unequaled insight into this amazing place which has seen a grim civil war but come up smiling. There are many wonderful places to see and roads to ride; most are in good shape, but there are a few (leading to some of the best views) which need some care.
We dropped in on one of Rohan’s school friends who runs a tea plantation in the highlands, and I had the best cup of tea I’ve ever drunk. Adding sugar, milk or (my peculiarity) lemon juice would have been sacrilege. The food is varied and interesting, the people are universally welcoming (even the cops) and where else can you take a chance on being trampled by an elephant?
Just kidding; Rohan will keep you safe.
New ZealaNd
Australia’s favourite overseas motorcycle destination probably doesn’t need an introduction, especially since there are so many options including shipping your own bike over there with Get Routed. One of these days I’m going to take Dave Milligan up on sampling his service with one of my bikes.
In the meantime, let me just say that I keep going back, and finding new roads to ride and things to see. As this issue hits the newsagents or your mailboxes, I will be there once again riding a bike borrowed from Te Waipounamu and exploring the very north of the South Island. Flights from Australia vary depending on your destination, time of year and day of the week but given the intense competition on the route they’re going to be affordable.
Ever since the Kiwis stopped preparing all of their food (including, say, lamingtons) with the addition of
2.
3.
1. On tar or dirt, Rohan’s 350cc Royal Enfields do the job more than adequately.
Waterfalls present excellent opportunities to shower.
Wherever you stop in New Zealand it’s worth pulling out the camera.
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
lamb (lamb-ingtons, see) the New Zealand cuisine has improved in leaps and bounds. Mostly. Last year I took a turn around East Cape, and I must report that some of the objects offered up there as ‘food’ are actually building materials. Oh, all right, just kidding. After all, I want to go back.
Tasmania
I don’t think I need to tell you much about Tassie, except for a couple of warnings. First, don’t go down there with the attitude that you’re going to ‘do’ the place in a few days or even a week. Tasmania has an amazing amount to offer; riding, sightseeing, food and experiences are all there for the taking. Some places will need a bit of finding, but the effort will be worthwhile.
Second, don’t be put off by the cost of the ferry. On the one hand you can fly down and rent a bike instead of taking your own, and on the other you can… well, you can pay the exorbitant cost of shipping it across Bass Strait. The problem is that Australia is a relatively wealthy country, and even despite government assistance TT Line faces high costs. Fact of life, and if you don’t like it you can always move to, say, the Philippines where fares are low but so are income and safety. Sorry, that wasn’t meant to be quite as harsh as it came out, but still. You gets what you pays for, where you pays for it.
mainland ausTralia
Should you prefer to not pay for either flights or ferries, there is always another destination, even closer for most of us, and that’s mainland Australia. I’m not going to go into any details here – we write about this magic place all the time – except to appeal to you to put bushfire-affected localities on your destination list.
And so, let’s see what some of our friends in the industry have to offer you! D
1. Yes, it’s Tasmania.There are references to the ‘old country’ wherever you go.
2. This one doesn’t really need a caption, does it?
Photo by Barnabas Imre
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
SOUTH AFRICA
RIDE THE WORLD MOTORCYCLE TOURS TOUR
10 Days - Royal Enfield South Africa Tour - Cape Town round trip.
DURATION
11 days in total
DATES
9 May 2020 and 19 September 2020.
COSTING
1 Rider / 1 Bike / 1 Room: From AU$ 5,950.00 per person
2 Riders / 2 Bikes / 1 Room: From AU$ 5,490.00 per person
Price for Pillion Passenger - From AU$ 2,745 per person
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
Explore the Cape Peninsula, South Africa on a Royal Enfield Bullet. Starting in Cape Town we ride along the coast on Route 44, visiting ‘Shark Alley’, Cape Agulhas, Route 62 through the Little Karoo, Meiringspoort. Try cage diving with sharks. Spend a night in a tented game lodge with an afternoon game drive. Ride over the Swartberg Pass staying in a village in the Great Karoo.
NEW ZEALAND
SOUTH PACIFIC MOTORCYCLE TOURS TOUR
12 Day Burt Munro Challenge 2021 Fully Guided Tour
DURATION
12 days in total, three rest days so you can enjoy the Challenge
DATES
February 2021. Exact date depends on the timing of the event
COSTING
Get a quote from South Pacific now on +64 3 312 0066
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
Explore Storms River where the Tsitsikamma Forest and Storm River Mouth take centre stage. Ride along the ‘Garden Route’ as we return to Cape Town.
CONTACT
http://ridethe
http://ridethe worldmotorcycle tours.com
The only Motorcycle Tour exclusively endorsed by and co-developed with our good friend John Munro (Burt's son!). This exciting tour includes tickets to most Burt Munro Challenge 2021 events, as well as exceptional unique additions listed below. Join us on this epic adventure to the Motorcycle Mecca of New Zealand to enjoy the thrills and spills of the Rally as well as touring stunning New Zealand with a great bunch of like-minded bikers. We look forward to meeting you on this once-in-a-lifetime motorcycle touring experience in 2021 - Only with South
Bullets on the road in South Africa.
There is some brilliant riding on desert gravel roads.
Tour group ready to set off for New Zealand’s wonderful roads.
That’s the original, the World’s Fastest Indian, on display for you.
Pacific Motorcycle Tours, and only if you book quickly!
CONTACT
http://ridetheworld motorcycletours.com
DURATION 15 days
DATES
17th November 2020 to 3rd December 2020
COSTING
SOUTH AMERICA
From AU$10,146 (BMW F700 GS)
COMPASS EXPEDITIONS
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
15 days of Adventure in Chile and Argentina: A motorcycle adventure through the breathtaking landscape of ancient forests, tree-lined fjords, lakes,
Some scenic grandeur is just so… grand that you can’t find words for it.
Wild Patagonia
No, I’m not going to burn my bike. Just collecting wood for the campfire.
Argentina’s
towering volcanoes of Patagonia.
After being closed to the outside world
until the early 80s the 1240km / 775ml Carratera Austral, or Ruta 40, is fast becoming renowned as one of, if not the best road trips in the world, a huge claim indeed. This immense ride will take in the very best of the Carratera Austral, deep within Patagonia, & also the legendary Chilean Lakes District, Ruta 40 & the vastness of Argentina’s pampas. If towering snow-capped peaks, perfect conical volcanoes, hanging glaciers, rare pristine forests, legendary roads, mighty fjords
and a vastness virtually unmatched anywhere else on earth then "Wild Patagonia" is your thing.
CONTACT
www.compassexpeditions.com/ tours/wild-patagonia
28 Sept - 17 Oct 2020 not best of the Carratera
SOUTH AFRICA
WORLD ON WHEELS TOUR
Spectacular South Africa
DURATION
20 days
DATES
How’s the weather up there? Giraffes are not among the Big 5, but are still amazing.
South Africa’s roads are generally excellent, and even the gravel tracks are good
COSTING
US$7,500 (Rider) and US$6,500 (Pillion)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
We start this tour in Cape Town, enjoying the famous Stellenbosch wineries before taking a half-day boat trip to the famous Robben
Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated. Then we head south to the Cape of Good Hope, then even further south to the wild southernmost tip of Africa, before striking east along the coast to join the famous 'garden route' before riding a couple of beautiful mountain passes on our way through the mighty Karoo. Continuing on through the vast interior, we traverse the remote and delightful land-locked nations of Lesotho and Swaziland, to arrive at the incredible Kruger National Park, where of course we enjoy an unforgettable early morning game drive and breathtaking encounters with the Big 5 and many more! Finally, we fi nish up in Johannesburg and try to convince you to hand then southernmost on interior,
back the keys of your BMW.
CONTACT www.worldonwheels.tours
SOUTH AMERICA, TASMANIA AND MAINLAND AUSTRALIA (!)
NEVERMIND ADVENTURE
TOUR/s
Great Ocean Road, Tasmania, Patagonia
DURATION
From one day tours on the Great Ocean Road up to 18 day tours
DATES
We operate all year round
COSTING
From $295 for domestic tours and from $4990 for international tours
Motorcycle Shipping
TO EUROPE AND NEW ZEALAND & BACK
Organise your next european or new zealand bike shipment with dave at get routed... Your bike is our priority
Ship your motorcycle to New Zealand and don't miss out on the Burt Munro Challenge, the BEARS Sound of Thunder and Classic racing at Pukekohe and riding the best roads EVER!
All right, fellas, are we ready to tackle this?
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
Old School Adventure Motorcycling exploring the world. Would you like to sit around the pool of a five star holiday resort and talk to your buddies about accessorising your custom built cafe racer while sipping on cocktails and scrolling through your
Facebook feed on your spy phone? Then this may not be for you. We “organise” motorcycles expeditions to some of the last remaining wilds of the planet. Let us share with you these beautiful countries and their
CONTACT
www.nevermindadventure. com - admin@ nevermindadventure.com
NAMIBIA
MOTORRAD TOURS
TOUR
African Odyssey: South Africa and Namibia
DURATION 16 DAYS
DATES 26 September – 11 October 2020
COSTING
From £7,995
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
Starting in Cape Town and fi nishing in Windhoek, this trip is a true blend of the varied culture and scenery Africa has to offer. The winelands and the Cape of Good Hope start the trip off, before we head north through the Cederberg Wilderness and on to Namibia. A surreal ride through an abandoned 1950s mining town, its buildings reclaimed by the desert, reminds you that nature is still in charge here. Stunning roads thread their way through some incredible scenery, with mountains and sand dunes dominating the landscape. Rivaling the landscape for space on your camera is a game drive in people.
Somewhere in Rajasthan…
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
On the road through South Africa’s wineries to Stellenbosch.
the Etosha National Park, home to elephants, rhinos, giraffes, lions
and even leopards. A photographer’s dream, Namibia is the backdrop for the most incredible sunsets giving the perfect ending to each riding day.
14 days in total, 12 days riding DATES 8 November 2020
COSTING from US$8510
You might almost think you were riding through a garden sometimes.
Sunset in Namibia. There’s nothing like a desert backdrop.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
New Zealand offers everything you could possibly look for in a holiday destination with an interesting indigenous culture and the friendliest people you can imagine. New Zealand is heaven for motorcyclists, because the roads are beautiful, well-maintained, and mostly empty.
This motorcycle tour will introduce you to all the major highlights of New Zealand: the Sky Tower in Auckland, the hot springs in Rotorua, the Art Deco district in Napier, museums, the most beautiful corners in Wellington, the ferry-cruise across Cook Strait, the spectacular Queen Charlotte Drive, the wild West Coast, the rainforest and the glaciers which run through it, the amazingly beautiful Milford Sound and the breath-taking view to Mount Cook, New Zealand‘s highest mountain.
Want to stay longer? The tour extension starting in Auckland will take you further North up to Cape Reinga and from there back to Auckland.
This spectacular combination of rugged mountains and stunning coastal roads will satisfy the real rider in you, giving you some of the most invigorating riding in Europe. Breathtaking scenery, roads to die for and rich history will make this trip a truly magical experience.
11 Day Adventure 15 - 25 May 2020 NZ $7,500 Attend MotoGP Mugello, Italy on 29-31 May
us for the ride of a lifetime in northern Thailand. Experience the most incredible, scenic and challenging motorcycle riding you’ll ever have! Our tour on sealed back roads will satisfy the most ardent corner loving road rider. Come and have a blast with us!
Riding the Southern Hemisphere
No report on W0W’s South American rides would be complete without a salt lake pic!
DURATION
20 days
DATES 2 - 21 Nov 2020
COSTING
US$8,000 (Rider) and US$7,000 (Pillion)
southern Peru, we head inland across the Andes and into Bolivia. We visit the highest city in the world, Potosi, to visit their notorious silver mines, before crossing the world's largest saltpan, the Salar de Uyuni.
BRIEF
DESCRIPTION
After visiting La Paz with the option of riding the notorious "Death Road", we return to Peru to visit the wonderful floating islands of Lake Titicaca.
Heading north we visit the ancient Inca capital of Cusco, before discovering the famous citadel of Machu Picchu. We then head across to the mysterious Nasca Lines before striking south and finishing up in Arequipa where it all started 3 weeks earlier. CONTACT
surrounded by majestic volcanoes in
On this exhilarating motorcycle tour through Peru and Bolivia, we cross the world's longest mountain chain, the Andes, in both directions, from west to east and then back again. Starting in the beautiful 'white city' of Arequipa, surrounded by majestic volcanoes in
www.worldonwheels.tours
You have to take the train to get there, but you shouldn’t miss Machu Picchu.
New Zealand’s many lakes make for exciting riding on the roads that follow their shorelines.
NEW ZEALAND
PARADISE MOTORCYCLE TOURS
TOUR
21 Day North & South Island
DURATION
21 days
DATES
4 – 24 January 2021; 08 – 28 March 2021
COSTING
From NZ $16,640
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
Bike across New Zealand and see the best our country has to offer and feel as if you have visited six different
continents in three weeks. From tropical rainforests and idyllic beaches, to glaciers and snowy peaks. You will see Saharan-like sand dunes, volcanoes and primeval fiords along the way. Ride through New Zealand roadscapes that most motorcyclists only dream of. Take on the Rimutuka Ranges, Milford Road, Lewis Pass and Lindis Pass as you bike around New Zealand. Haast Pass is called "Motorcycle Heaven", most cameras can't capture the beauty of this incredible ride! and around
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Much of the South Island is dominated by its mountainous spine.
Big Bore Hero WORDS Ralph PHOTOS NICK WOOD CRE aTIVE
LeT’s go WITH THe facts first. The empirical hardtorque ones, the put that in your pipe and smoke ’em ones. In the Milwaukee corner, if you opt for the new 118ci, 1923cc, 169.4Nm engine vs the Wisconsin-made Indian Thunder Stroke 116ci, 1890cc, 168Nm powerplant - then you add the slip-on accessory mufflers ($2000) and freerflowing air filter ($800), which includes a retune you get a claimed seventeen percent more American grunt dished out in the lighter Indian package. Yes, you can feel the extra kick in the butt despite the minuscule capacity difference.
Now you may feel that size and tugboat-like pulling power isn’t the first port of call for buyers in the cruiser market? Better think again because just like Hollywood power couple George and Amal Clooney – both looks and clout count. And isn’t that what the cruiser market is all about with some big hitting offerings from America, Japan and now Germany again with the BMW R1800?
Presence in the carpark or on the road is just as important and to obtain that you will need a wind deflecting fairing with a built-in sound system and colour-matched panniers. Long twin exhausts are called for as well. In Indian’s case it is also creating the connection with the ‘once was’ by using the ‘here now’. The company offers the market something similar and familiar but in an alternative package. Some folks are sure to think ‘give me the Indian any day’ and here’s why.
Once past the gleam of chrome and highly polished surfaces and beyond the deep metalflake paintwork, the Chieftain is a machine with character and a bucket load of personality. Especially the way it emerged straight out of the pre-delivery area on my first day. Fitted with the loud factory performance pipes and high-flow air filter and the ‘Limited’ signature graphics and wheels meant that everywhere I was planning to go, I was sure to be seen and heard. First up, it shakes a little more than the rubber mounted H-D’s I have
been on in the last couple of years but it is just plain easy to ride. Weight is north of 360 kilograms which means, as a ‘kick sand in my face weakling’, I always going to punt for the lighter Indian. And man o’ man does it kick some sand! The big Vee is louder than a cracking February thunderstorm and fortunately most of the ruckus is left well behind and hidden by the excellent panniers and the act of pure and forceful acceleration. You can hear a lot of sucking going on around the left knee just as you roll on some throttle from the unrestricted well -breathing air filter. Sometimes there will be a slight hesitation and the computer has to consider how much air the cylinders can take in one hit. Then bang, it hits hard. I’m not sure whether there was a tiny bit of
wheelspin or just the take up of the Kevlar drive belt but you can feel the extra kick after the first split second. The assertive thrust is impressive. So are the clutch and the gearbox once I started to break them in a little. As the first five hundred kilometre clicked by, the front brakes improved markedly. You need them if you explore more
All in the family
The Indian motorcycle family breakdown is quite easy to work out and the ‘Limited’ we rode sits near the top of the tree.
The Scout range is the entry point with an 1183cc water-cooled V-twin starting from $19,995 for the Scout and Scout Bobber.
The exciting 1203cc FTR 1200 jumps up a little at $20,995 although there is a run-out special at $17,995 at the moment (2019 stock in February 2020). The FTR S is worth every cent of the extra $2000.
Kicking up a class and starting from $30,995 is the Chief cruiser range of the Dark Horse and Vintage, both running the 111ci Thunder Stroke donk. Baggers are next and starting from $34,995, running the 111ci engine are the Springfield, the Springfield Dark and our Chieftain Limited and the Dark Horse (116) with an asking price of $38,995. You will need to stretch your budget substantially to straddle the range-topping Chieftain Elite at five bucks under fifty big ones!
Dedicated touring duties are taken care of by the same air cooled 116ci engine in the Roadmaster, starting from $41,995, while the new Challenger series runs the 1768cc liquid-cooled Dark Horse and Limited ($39,995) for 2020. All these prices are ride away.
TEST
than the casual 2,500rpm which you rarely need to exceed.
I sadly wasted half my time on freeways but when the time came for rolling hills and valleys the sharper steering (compared to the H-D Road Glide of similar specifications that we had in #79) and the cast aluminium frame made for a better and easier handling cruiser. I was putting less energy and more importantly concentration into stop-start riding as well as bend-swinging around Jamberoo and up and down the Putty Road. Easy, yes and relaxing yes and providing you go out of the ‘Sport’ engine map and stick with the Tour or Standard settings. The hard-edge Sport setting should be called ‘hangover cure’ because it will assault almost every sensory organ going and realign the planets. It was about now I was missing the heel and toe gearshift which my brain is wired for on this style of motorcycle. There isn’t enough clearance against the primary case in this model. Did I mention the more integrated looks of the Indian appeal to me? Your eyes, and ultimately your mind are going to feast for hours (if not years) on the way the re-invigorated brand tackles the market with balls and finesse. The powerplant is splendid in bulk, lines and chrome. From the top of the cast cylinder-head covers down to the mirror finished cases you will be staring at your reflection and contemplating the hours that will be spent gratifying a compulsive cleaning disorder. If you haven’t spent at least thirty minutes checking out the detailing then punish yourself with a Saturday morning at the Bunnings sausage sandwich stall. For just under $40,000 you get a reasonable amount of technology built into a bagger. The remote keyless system works well, locking the panniers as well as the steering. Lighting it up is Indian’s version of infotainment called Road Command. The 7” screen is easy to use and clear and offers navigation, radio, Bluetooth to mobile and even control of the three engine modes on offer. There is plenty of information displayed on the touch-screen which is nicely positioned inside the oldschool analogue clocks for speedo
and engine revs. Buttons and screen swiping controls the screen for road information, GPS and various settings. Although all the tripmeters and even elevation don’t compensate for the lack of fuel consumption readout. The compass and control of the brightness of the screen are a bonus. The Chieftain really needs cornering lights to match the already super-bright LEDS headlights. It is disconcerting to have the road in front of go almost black. We are getting spoilt these days. The front area of the front frame downtubes houses the oil cooler and filter and the rectifier and they are the only things that look out of place and almost vulnerable.
The sound system’s performance and outright quality are a little step down from other brands we have sampled recently. An open face helmet helps as well as playing with the movable screen height which is a great feature. The short screen it can be raised with a switch on the right-side switchgear and makes a huge difference. The range of height is enough to go from plenty of fresh air to wind (and noise) rushing over your eye level. Even on our stifling 40C plus days the cockpit had enough air circulating for me not to complain. In traffic the heat from the rear cylinder is noticeable and it takes at least ten minutes of cooler air at a reasonable speed to reduce the heat.
This is a motorcycle, if you aren’t in the target spotlight, that needs a big adjustment to really engage and like. The Limited has real presence and attitude but if comfort is measured by suspension compliance then it won’t measure up the standard of real tourers. Cruisers need to carry their weight and length by offering really firm suspension, but great ergos and comfy seats claw back some all-day comfort. This means most cruisers would never meet my ‘if you could only own motorcycle’ list. This won’t matter to someone smitten by the genre or the Indian’s quality and especially their traditional looks in a modern incarnation. This one motorcycle that has the earth-shattering presence of a stage one booster rocket and is fun every time you go 10, 9, 8 ,7…1 blast off. D
Specs
2020 INDIAN CHIEFTAIN LIMITED
PRICE: $38,995 Ride away
WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance
SERVICING INTERVALS: 800km, 4000km, 8000km then every 8000km or 12 months
ENGINE: V-Twin cylinder, 4-stroke, air-cooled, 2-valves per cylinder
BORE x STROKE: 103mm x 113mm
DISPLACEMENT: 1890cc
COMPRESSION: 11.0:1
POWER: N/A
TORQUE: 168Nm @ 2800rpm
TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, belt drive
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.0 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 416km
COLOURS: Thunder Black Pearl, Radar Blue and Thunder Black Pearl with graphics
VERDICT: THUMPINGLY AMAZING!
THE GEAR LEGENDS ARE MADE OF.
LC1/LC2 Available in Black or Brown
The Saddle Strap provides a convenient “throw-over” system for Legend Gear Saddle Bags LS1 and LS2 and may be fitted to standard passenger seats making them a great option for most bikes.
If your machine is classic, vintage or retro there is a range of luggage designed to perfectly complement your ride.
Legend Gear from SW-Motech is inspired by the traditional materials of leather and canvas but updated with today’s technology to bring you a suite of luggage that is as tough as it is timeless.
The Legend Gear range of soft, robust luggage includes tankbags, saddlebags, tailbags and many more accessories to make your ride legendary.
“Universal” mounting frames serve as a base allowing you to construct a custom frame that will suit your bike and mount Legend Gear Bags LC1 and LC2.
The “Black Edition” is available for a selection of bags including the LR2 Tail Bag pictured above, the LT1 Magnetic Tank Bag and the LC 9.8L and LC 13.5L frame mounted Saddlebags.
yamahaSuper Ténéré
Yamahas big boy adventurer, the Super Ténéré has been around for a number of years and most recently been given the electronic suspension treatment. We have ridden all versions over the years but never really gelled with it…until now.
I always felt the Super Ténéré lacked feel in the front end and this was compounded in the dirt, where feel is almost everything. I was fortunate enough to live with the Super Ténéré we tested here for over a month and finally worked out what was needed to give me a good feeling and really be comfortable riding the Super Ténéré on all surfaces. The simple answer is that the front suspension was softened off. I played with the electronic settings quite a bit to feel what they all do but in the end I had the rear set at rider plus luggage and the damping set at Soft. This was
enough for the rear to stay jacked up a bit and the damping allowed the bike to handle all surfaces and most importantly allow the front end to move around and give good feel. From a maintenance point of view the Super Ténéré would be a popular choice with many riders. Shaft drive keeps things clean and easy to look after. You do get a bit of backlash through the drive but it doesn’t take long to adjust to it.
Retaining the established parallel twin format of the old XTZ750 Super Ténéré, the 1199cc parallel twin features double overhead cams and four valves per cylinder and a 270-degree crank to create a parallel twin ‘crossplane’ engine. As with the crossplane R1, Yamaha claims this firing order reduces inertial torque to give better drive, making it ideal for off-
road riding and I tend to agree – you have grip off slow switchbacks whereas many other adventure bike engines will spin the tyre. It doesn’t make the riding as exciting as being sideways all the time but from an all-day perspective it does help keep you relaxed. Within the engine, two balancers shafts not only reduce vibrations, but the front one also drives the oil and water pumps while the engine itself has a dry sump with the oil tank located inside the crank case, helping to reduce the motor’s height and stop the bike becoming too top-heavy. When you are packing a 23-litre tank, this is an important feature: being too top heavy is a killer in the dirt. Speaking of the tank capacity, the parallel twin is reasonably fuel efficient. I achieved 5.03L/100km which gives the Super Ten a theoretical range of 458km, which isn’t too shabby.
The electronically adjustable suspension is not semi-active, but can have its damping altered while on the go to one of 84 different combinations of damping settings through four preload and three damping force settings – there’s a combination in there that’s right for you.
The Super Ténéré is a tall bike, but thanks to its narrow waist it isn’t as intimidating as you might expect. The riding position is typical adventure bike comfortable and thanks to a fourposition manually-adjustable screen and hand guards as standard, weather protection is good. It’s a genuine all-day comfortable bike. Pillions will appreciate the Super Ténéré’s comfort levels too, especially with a top box to lean up against. It’s a great pillion bike, however if you’ve got short legs (as the rider) you may struggle a bit with the added weight as a pillion and luggage do tend to make it a big old beast, especially at low speed and on knobby tyres.
When you ride a Super Ténéré out on your own in the bush it is
hard to understand how it hasn’t been more popular. Yes, it’s a big bike, but that’s what you get with an adventure-styled machine and if you have little interest in off-road riding the Ténéré’s size actually makes it a better road machine.
Once on the open road the parallel twin’s power is a welcome plus point, making the Yamaha feel surprisingly zippy when required and also packing a lot of mid-range grunt and drive. It’s a fabulous engine; while lacking a bit of the character and feel you get from rival twins, it is refined, smooth and a joy to use. And its electronic assists add to the refinement of the overall package without getting overcomplicated.
Super Ténéré owners are more than happy to shout about the virtues of their bike, and rightly so. Yes, it’s a bit more old-school than its latest rivals, but the Yamaha is a fantastically well built, reliable and ruthlessly efficient adventure bike that carries a famous name on its side - and is something a little different from a GS. D
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.02 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 458km
COLOURS: Ceramic Ice
VERDICT: TRUSTY STEED
YAMAHA XTZ1200 SUPER TENERE
COONABARABRAN
Check out the planets
COONABARABRAN, The Astronomy Capital of Australia, is surrounded by a scaled model of our Solar System that’s 38 million times smaller than the real thing. That still leaves it pretty big. You’ll see three-dimensional planet models along the way as you shuttle from Pluto at the furthest reaches of the Solar System to the Sun, which is represented by the 37-metre Anglo-Australian Telescope dome at Siding Spring Observatory just up from town.
The planets are displayed on huge billboards with the size of the planets and the distance between each billboard scaled relative to the
WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR
dome – the Sun - along the fi ve main roads that lead to Coonabarabran in regional NSW. For more information see www. solarsystemdrive.com .
BATHURST
I don’t think anyone is likely to need an intro to Bathurst unless they’re from a long way away. The venue for any number of car and motorcycle races and, in the past, one of the best towns to witness or become involved in a riot stoked by the NSW police, Bathurst now has a tidy motor racing museum and a wide range of cafés and restaurants.
SOFALA
If Sofala tried a little it could seem quite creepy, but as it stands it is a nice enough, basic little town with a really nice shop/café on the main and almost only street. There’s no fuel.
LUE
Take the side road under the railway at Lue and you’ll come to the basic but kind of loveable pub. It caters to dirt riders with donga-style accommodation and has fi res in the beer garden at night in winter. Congenial if not exactly classy, the Lue pub has been a destination for us for some years.
www.hemamaps.com.au
ORANGE ROUTE
We’ll do it the easy way, shall we? Just roll out of Sydney along the Great Western Highway (go on, you can afford the toll –or if you’re like me you can just ride the highway instead). Climb the edge of the Blue Mountains, stop for the first coffee of the day in Glenbrook and then enjoy the widened road to Katoomba, on to Blackheath and then Lithgow. Stay on the main road to Bathurst; yes, I know this isn’t the shortest route, but stick with me and we’ll have some fun. Just before Bathurst, turn north to Sofala and then onwards to Ilford. This is an enjoyable road, important enough to get a decent amount of care but not so important that it’s full of cars. Dip down to the Turon River crossing at Sofala and then enjoy the twisties to rejoin the main road. A quick left turn, then turn right again to continue through Kandos and Rylstone to Mudgee.
This is another terrific and relatively unused road. Some tricky corners! Take the Castlereagh Highway from Mudgee through Gulgong – always worth a stop – and Dunedoo to the Coonabarabran turnoff at Mendooran. And you’re there!
DISTANCE: 540km, all good tarred road.
GREEN ROUTE
As I write this, the Putty Road is still closed from the bushfires, but it will be well and truly open by the time you read this. Just head out through Windsor and Wilberforce, cross the Colo River and power on to Grey Gum, where you will find it necessary to stop for Kim’s excellent apple pie and coffee. On to Bulga and then turn left into the Golden Highway. Just a word of warning about the Putty Road. Whereas on most roads around the place, careless drivers are the main danger, on the Putty it’s other motorcyclists. The road seems to attract morons who can’t ride well enough to stay on their own side of
the road and who overtake with zero space between their crotch rockets and other people’s bikes. Beware. It’s a terrific bike road and I’m sorry I have to write this.
Okay. Out through Denman and Merriwa, then with a turnoff to Coolah and Binnaway, all on reasonably well-maintained roads, the road takes you up to Coonabarabran. This route is slightly shorter than the orange one and has a bit less traffic overall – the ideal is to go up one way and come back the other.
DISTANCE: 505km, some of the road surface not as good as on the orange route.
PINK ROUTE
From Mudgee up to Ulan and then on to join the Golden Highway (or the other way around) this is just a way of mixing up your trip a bit. The road has a bit of a remote feel, and you’ll get to see some coal mining if that’s your bag.
DISTANCE: 100km, good back road.
COLLECT THEM ALL
MUDGEE
Surrounded by vineyards and even with a meadery in the hills, Mudgee is expensive but pleasant enough. There’s a good little brewery which has meals, and plenty of other food and drink. If you have the time, check out Stein’s Wines (referred to by the locals as ‘Steen’s Weenes’ for reasons I will not go into) with its small but perfectly formed motorcycle collection.
GULGONG
Once the town on the ten dollar note, Gulgong continues to try to survive on its various different kinds of history. There’s a basic but fascinating museum, a couple of excellent pubs and various other places to eat. Every business in Gulgong has been for sale ever since I can remember but none seems to ever have been sold – not that that makes any difference to the bucolic
charm of the place. If you have the option, spend your money here rather than in Mudgee – Gulgong needs it more.
COONABARABRAN
A good place to stop over, Coona is a major highway junction and gets a lot of truck traffi c, so try to get a room that doesn’t face the street.
BINNAWAY
A quiet and particularly pleasant little town, Binnaway is unfortunately also the host of a sizeable abattoir. This was closed for some years, but is now back to pungently perfuming the surrounding countryside. Ah well, got to get our steaks from somewhere.
COOLAH
There’s nothing really notable about
Coolah except that it has a nice, green main street and it’s thoroughly pleasant sitting outside one of the cafés (I think there’s more than one) with a beverage.
GREY GUM
One of NSW’s and indeed Australia’s prime motorcyclist gathering places, Grey Gum is a must-stop on the Putty Road. Park your bike in the dedicated concrete parking area and enjoy a coffee or a meal. We do.
COLO HEIGHTS
The only claim to fame that Colo Heights really has is that it’s the fi rst fuel on the Putty Road (going south) from the road’s beginning in the Hunter Valley. The servo is quite popular with motorcyclists, possibly for this reason. D
SO ANYWAY, THIS LAST year of riding the Murray has reinforced in me the abundance of beautiful locations along its length. And it’s revealed a plethora of damn fine pubs (and camping spots) along its banks.
But just maybe, the southern run of the Murray, from Nor West Bend to Mannum has the most beautiful spots - some secluded, some open - of the river’s two and a half thousand kilometres.
It also has some of the very best pubs. Some are memorable for their history or their service or their publicans or their characters or their view. Few boast all of these to a degree that equals the Swan Reach Hotel’s.
I rock up after an eventful day which has just climaxed by exquisitely timing my arrival on the far side of the river with the passing across my bows of the Murray Princess, largest paddle boat in the southern hemisphere.
And now in the bar – bottle of Annie’s Lane in the ice-bucket and good rare tenderloin of certifi ed non-roadkill kangaroo with thick chips and a salad on the side on the table in front of me, I’m absolutely feeling no pain!
Outside to my right the last vestiges of light mutate slowly into darkness and I pull out some old clippings for this place. Paul Hasse obtained a strategic Storekeepers’ Colonial Wine licence for his store in Swan
Reach in 1897 and then used this as a successful lever to secure the town’s first and only ever hotel license for his wife 2 years later.
Across the river the punt waits for custom - its back-lit fl ag casting a dancing shadow on the wavelets and I pull out the fi rst review that I can fi nd of the hotel – from the Adelaide Advertiser of 1907. It opens with a fl ourish:
“O, could I flow like thee, and
make thy stream
My great example, as it is my theme. Though deep, yet clear; though gentle, yet not dull; Strong without rage; without o’erflowing, full.
These lines of Denham came back to my memory on a recent moonlight right, when I gazed from the hotel verandah at Swan Reach upon the playful rippling waves of the monarch of Australian rivers.”
The unnamed writer goes on to
One to come back to
A pub with a long back story, in the hands of caring people who have the skills to balance the special demands of locals, blow-ins and regular returners is a thing to be treasured.
The hospitality of the hosts, the setting of the place, the comforts of the accommodation all combine to get this just shy of a fi ve-helmet rating. Only the lack of specifi c catering to riders pulled it back.
In wonderful contrast to the mindless, soulless, gambling dominated pubs in places like Murray Bridge to the south and Berri, Loxton, Waikerie and Cobdogla to the north, this place has its unique character and personality. Five from five on that scale.
Its accommodation is 20% more than a similar room in Mannum or Morgan but food and drink are pretty equivalent. On our value scale it rated 120 where 100 is benchmark.
I’ll be there again before long and if you’re in the area, whether looking for a bed or a camping spot, you can’t go wrong.
praise his host, Paul Hasse, after whom the street up the hill beside the pub is still named although a next morning search for a street sign to that effect proves fruitless.
In 1909 The Adelaide Register echoed the sentiments:
“Of the many new settlements on the River Murray which have in recent years come into existence the township of Swan Reach is one of the most impressive.”
When Paul Hasse died in 1911 the tributes were effusive:
As proprietor of the local hotel he was known affectionately as “the Boss”, a name by which he will be long remembered … When (he) came to Swan Reach there was no means of getting horses and vehicles across the river except by swimming the horses and getting the trap across on a boat. But after a good deal of exertion Mr Hasse secured a punt, which is one of the best paying concerns of its kind on the river.”
The place sure didn’t run down when its founder moved on. In 1939 the Adelaide Mail sent a scribe out in
a new-fangled motor-car and 80 years later I don’t have much to add to his (gender assumption, I know) report: “then you come to Swan Reach, one of the exquisite places of the world. The hotel … is the old Swan Reach station homestead with a storey added. It stands on top of a limestone cliff, and is built of limestone cut out of the cliffs. You can see the old gear which was used to lower the wool bales over the cliff into river steamers or barges … The gums hereabouts are glorious, and the river is equally so. What a place for an idle
holiday, with a little boating and fishing, and an eye trimmed for the reception of beauty.”
As the night gets quieter and I’m still tuning in to ‘the reception of it all’, Georgie, who runs the joint with AJ her partner, drops by my table and when I show her my clippings she tells me to go check out the lobby that I’d missed by coming in through the front bar and she’ll join me with a red in a bit.
The main entrance, (which I’d
missed despite parking the bike right out front) leads to a wide reception area where the walls are covered with images, photographs and document facsimiles including shots of a very serious Paul Hasse. This is a thoroughbred pub that’s very aware of its bloodlines and breeding.
It’s no surprise when Georgie says she’s a country girl from up Port Augusta way where her parents ran cattle and “I used to muster in a little Suzuki but my parents sold the farm
in ’85 and we moved to the Adelaide hills and went into cattle on 600 acres there.”
She met AJ who’d been in hospitality for 15 years and they decided, “to do something together for ourselves so I got into the pub game and he got back into the pub game.”
They ran the pub over in Coonalpyn for 4 years without having a day off and then in January 2015 took out a 20-year lease on this place deciding against
buying the freehold.
A visit to Broken Hill where most of the pubs only open at 3.00pm and most close one day a week convinced them they needed more balance in their lives and so hired Geoff – a manager who runs the place three days a week so they can each have a life – AJ spending time on his Harley and Georgie in her garden.
All the staff, about a dozen allup, are locals who preceded their takeover of the place – there’re no
blow-in backpackers just people with a connection to the place and an obvious love for it.
“Originally there were concerns from the locals that we’d change too much of the place when we took over, but we see ourselves as custodians who are looking after it for the community and you have to do that you have to feel part of the community. Employing members of your community goes a long way to cementing that connection.”
All the rooms, a mix of doubles and twins ($60 for a single and $20 more for your mate) have air-con and opening, screened windows. There’re separate M/F toilets and showers but it’s rain water that’ll be falling on you so please no washing your clothes!
Downstairs the large common room has the usual suspects for making a brew and having cereal and toast in the morning and the deck is open for you to take it out and suck in the view.
The front bar is given over to gambling and there’re 10 pokies somewhere but the tranquility of the main area and the deck are more than ample to escape the screaming commentaries on dogs from Dapto and nags from all over.
I parked the bike out front and left the bags I didn’t need upstairs, in the lobby. Could’ve left Super Ten undercover or locked behind one of the doors into the cliffs but there was no need.
Now if pubs in the arvo followed by a night under the stars in a tent or swag are more your thing, there’s unlimited free camping right on the riverside across the river. Just set up, leave your gear and catch the ferry to the pub. When was the last time you did that?
If the Swan Reach pub were a bitch to get to, it’d still be worth the effort but the trip’s nothing close to a test. The surrounding stretches make riding a real joy if you’re into back road riding that’s not overly chicken strip reducing.
Again not much’s changed since 1926 when, Trip Advisor notes, “the well run Swan Reach Hotel... is becoming a popular one and being only three hours from Adelaide it is a favourite week-end resort.”
Quick tip: Base yourself at Swan Reach for two nights and use the ends of the day when the sun ignites the cliffs beside the river. (Even my
mate back in 1939 commented: “The limestone cliffs at Swan Reach …… I had to stop for a picture.”)
Head south with the river on your right through Nildottie, then cross at the Walker Flat Punt, south again but with the river on your left and re-cross at the Purnong Ferry. Down to Mannum and then return crossing both ferries in the opposite direction and you’ll have done 200kms of damn decent riding. The colour shifts at the ends of the day around here are extraordinary and not to be missed.
As Georgie says: “This is a destination point rather than a transit stop. People are on holiday and love coming back, that sense of coming back to the known and the comfortable.”
I’ve met a lot of publicans who’ve talked that talk. Not many walk the walk better than these two running the Swan Reach Hotel.
Full Disclosure: When in Walkers Flat I reversed roles and knocked on a Jehovah Witness’s door. Warren answered and ended up slipping me his shot of the golden cliffs. I thank him. D
you MustRemember this...
Can you see the family relationship? Less than a century separates these two designs. But they’re both unmistakably from the Bayerische Motoren Werke.
WHERE IS THE cradle of our civilization? For the sake of the argument I’m taking ‘our’ to mean Western civilization; no offence intended to Chinese, Japanese, Benin-ese or Aztec readers.
You could argue that it was in the Fertile Crescent, currently better known as the Fired Upon Crescent. There is also a reasonable argument for the Indus valley, and the Arabian Peninsula. Surprised by the inclusion of Arabia? It’s where our numbers and much of our science came from. References to that persist even now, with al-cohol for example.
Both ancient Greece and Rome have good claims to cradle-hood as well, but I’m going to propose the entire continent of Europe. Certainly much of our joint culture does go back to those elder civilisations, but most of
The Channel coast of France offers snug small towns with excellent food.
HIGHLIGHTS
Riding in Austrian Alps, Budapest, Prague, Cesky Krumlov, Salzburg, Krakow, High Tatras
TOUR DATE JUL 25 - AUG 8, 2020
the art, music and writing that we share is more recent. This is not to denigrate the works of people like Maharani
Ananya Mahajan who built five giant astronomical observatories in India, one of which has a huge sun dial which
Continental ferries are quick and usually free.
gives the time with an accuracy of two seconds. It’s just that when we think of astronomy, Galileo is more likely to come to mind than the Maharani.
That’s a long introduction, but I wanted to establish that travelling to and around Europe is, or can be, much more than just a fang through some wonderful scenery and a taste of some excellent food – and drink, thank you the Arabs. Actually, they only named it: it had been around for a few millennia.
Europe is a treasure house for anyone who’s interested in her or his own history (always assuming you’re of European descent) and it’s wonderful what you can discover. Take a recent trip I made back to Germany. I went exploring with my nephew to find the village where my Father’s family originated. We found it, and as we were looking through the graveyard we discovered a stylish grave stone which listed a Thoeming, but with only a birth date. A woman tending a nearby grave said, “Oh yes, he’s not dead. He just wanted exactly the gravestone he liked, so he put it up in advance.”
My nephew looked at me. “That’s the kind of thing I can imagine you doing,” he said. Family roots run deep.
Apart from discovering family graves and other connections, you can trace all sorts of things in Europe. One of my interests is beer, as you may have noticed if you’ve been reading this magazine for any length of time. But it’s not just the drinking; I’m also interested in the history and the development of the golden brew. In the cause of research I visited Pilsen in Czechia, where I was treated to a tour of the Urquell brewery and was most impressed.
Did you know that pilsner, obviously named after Pilsen, came about because someone at the maltings made a mistake? A maltings is where the grain is ‘toasted’ to get it ready for the brewer, and this bloke (almost certainly a bloke, though I can’t be sure) swept the barley up before it was ready. The result was an unusually pale beer which became popular because it looked good in the glass drinking vessels that were just coming into use.
I mean seriously, isn’t that worth knowing?
Far away from Eastern Europe, on the Bay of Biscay in Spain, is a city called San Sebastian. I’m sure you’re familiar with tapas, but I bet you didn’t know that San Sebastian specializes in giant tapas called pintxos. A bar crawl in this town (the booze is good, too, and so is the street music) is guaranteed to leave you full in more than one way, and hanging out for more. It did me, anyway.
I suspect you’re getting the idea. Europe is full of brilliant places tied loosely together with mostly excellent roads; do stay off the autostrada, Autobahn, autoroute and all the other superslab. Back roads are experiences all their own.
It’s not just food, drink and riding. With a bit of luck you will be able to score a ticket to La Scala in Milan for the same day, especially if the production that evening doesn’t feature one of the grand stars of the opera world. I’ve done it – walk in, walk out with a ticket to a pre-opening
final rehearsal of Fidelio, and it wasn’t even all that expensive.
It also costs little to see the many remains of Greece’s antiquity. Europe is full of motorcycle and transport museums. You could spend a holiday just checking those out. Other wonderful European museums include the Victoria & Albert in London, the Deutsches Museum in Munich and the Musee d’Orsay in Paris. Just around the corner from the last of those is the Rodin Museum, less known but just amazing. Art galleries like the Uffizi in Florence will overload anyone’s capacity to absorb great art.
Keep in mind that pressure from tourist numbers has meant that many museums and art galleries in Europe now offer bookings if you want to avoid long queues to get in.
Of course, as Sir Les Patterson has often pointed out, here in Australia we’ve got culture up to our freckles, don’t get me wrong. But I think you’ll fi nd that Europe is worth a look as well. D
1. Motorcycle and, more generally, transport museums are everywhere, 2. Pintxos are an open invitation to stuffing yourself. Learn to be moderate!
3. Roads? You can’t get much better than European back roads.
4. Order a beer in Spain, and a snack appears with it – free of charge.
The guide to the stars - The who’s who in the zoo of motorcycle travel worldwide is what you’ll find here. We’ve travelled with many of them and know them all, so they come highly recommended. In alphabetical order, they are:
IMTBIKE TOURS & RENTALS
- Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Europe and Thailand www.imtbike.com tours@imtbike.com
MAGIC MOTORCYCLING
Thailand and Croatia www.magicmotorcycling.com tour@magicmotorcycling.com
TOURS – New Zealand & European Alps www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz
Cafe directory
INLINE4 CAFE
Best café and fully licensed restaurant on the way to Philip Island Circuit
I Vista Place, Cape Woolamai Philip Island, Victoria 0427 475 681
RIDE THE WORLD - Australia, India, South Africa, Vietnam, USA Adventure rides out of Las Vegas www.ridetheworld.com.au david@ridetheworld.com.au
ROMANIA MOTORCYCLE
TOURS – Europe www.romaniamotorcycletours.com office@romaniamotorcycletours.com
SOUTH PACIFIC MOTORCYCLE
TOURS – New Zealand www.motorbiketours.co.nz office@motorbiketours.co.nz
WORLD ON WHEELS - Europe, Iceland, South America, India, Asia, Mexico, Africa & Himalaya www.worldonwheels.tours Adventure@WorldOnWheels.Tours
ThE ShAggY CoW
Exceptional food and service from ‘Best in NSW Cafe’ winner 112 Main St Mittagong 02 4872 2966
York LANE
City Laneway cafe/bar run by the original Ducati riding ace racer. York Lane behind Clarence St 02 9299 1676
PITSToP AT MT MEE CAFE
A great ride to a beautiful location north of Brisbane 2070a Mt Mee r d, o cean View, Queensland 07 342536520
grEY guMS CAFé
Really the Centre of the Universe if you are travelling up The Putty 8679 Putty r oad, Putty NSW 02 6579 7015
ChuBBS
Definitely a haven for people interested in classic motorcycles and filling their bellies! 42 Windbourne r d, Brookvale 0420 546 477
AT ThE bEgiNNiNg of 2014, Yamaha unveiled the MT-07, a versatile, lightweight, learner-friendly middleweight that punched well above its weight. It also appealed to the commuter, the more experienced rider who was after a bit of weekend fun…and pretty much anyone in between and either side!
Priced extremely sensibly and oh so rewarding to ride, the MT-07 gained plaudits globally and is still one of the best-selling bikes on the market after all these years.
To complement the MT-07, Yamaha released a retro model, called the XSR700. LAMS approved and a bike that mixes all the good bits from the MT-07 with the learnings from the “Yard Built” philosophy since its inception back in 2010, it too has been a hit, especially among those looking for something a little different from a ‘normal’ naked bike.
Using the same torquey, liquidcooled, parallel twin, from the MT-07,
the team behind the XSR700 project set about creating a motorcycle that would offer “tonnes of customising possibilities,” said Yamaha Product Manager, Shun Miyazawa at the time – the countless number of variations that has been produced over the last few years by different customizing houses is testament to just how well this bike can be transformed.
Designed at Yamaha’s external design house, GK, by Jun Tamura (Head of Design) the bike introduced a 5-stage concept brief for the bike. It aimed to interpret the words Modern, Timeless, Original, Neutral and Universal and has created a retro-styled, lightweight bike for riders of all abilities.
The XSR700 is available in the colour you see here (Garage Metal) and new for 2020 is a very stylish white version with red stripe and gold wheels, which we hope will make its way to our shores.
What are the main differences between the XSR700 and its
older brother, MT-07?
The frame is the main change. The XSR700 uses its engine as a stressed member of the frame, incorporating it into its shape. This leaves no down or bottom tubes, which helps to reduce weight to 186kg, wet. While that figure is actually 4kg heavier than the MT-07, it’s still 40kg lighter than the current Triumph Bonneville, one of the Yamaha’s main competitors.
The subframe is different and has been designed in such a way that it encourages customisation. The same goes for components such as the front mud guard, which is only attached by four small bolts, and the aluminium panels surrounding the 14-litre fuel tank, which are easy to replace without disturbing the whole tank and pump.
The round headlight and rear light plus the round and very easy-to-read LCD display fit nicely into the heritage nature, which suggests an open-face helmet as the appropriate look. No, it doesn’t really matter what type of
helmet you wear. Just sayin’.
Positioned further towards the rider for a more upright riding position, the handlebar combines with the increased seat height of 815mm, 10mm higher than the MT-07’s, to produce quite a different riding position. This alternative riding position works in favour of the XSR, especially for taller riders because it offers more leg room. There’s also the narrow waist of the bike where the slightly pitched seat meets the fuel tank, again offering a decent position from which to move your weight as you flick the agile bike around the twisty bits. The tank is sculpted to hold your knees while the foot pegs and gearshift are ideally situated for a comfortable riding position.
The standard seat is a perhaps a little firm for some tastes but only if you’re going to be travelling 200+kms or so in one, er, sitting. You won’t get much more out of the tank anyway.
For whatever reason, many
customisers feel the seat is one of the first things to change on a standard bike and you’ll almost always see this on custom houses’ bikes. If you’re doing it yourself, you might not worry about it – the standard seat looks quite nice and even has a stylish sunken “XSR700” logo in the rear. Even in this LAMS spec, the bike’s got some pace, the linear torque delivery is very smooth and surprisingly powerful in the mid-rpm range. Don’t underestimate this twin, it packs a punch despite being housed in a cool, modern-classic frame.
Performance in the corners is excellent for a motorcycle not designed with this as its primary responsibility, and equipped with reasonably basic suspension. The Pirelli Phantom Sportscomp tyres with their rather aesthetically pleasing tread pattern do a good job too and add to the retro look.
One area I think should have been changed to a more traditional
look are the discs. The twin, wavy, 282mm discs with their Nissin calipers and ABS work well but a traditional round disc would have looked more appropriate for this bike.
Fuel consumption was reasonable from the 14 litre tank. I achieved 6.62L/100km around town for a theoretical range of 211km. When riding with a more constant throttle I got 6.04L/100km.
Yamaha genuine accessories are well thought out and extensive to allow a nice customised bike off the showroom floor, or one that you can customise over time.
The modern-classic style of the XSR700 and the manner in which it has been created leaves you with an opportunity to easily personalise the bike. If the XSR700 had been available at the time I purchased an MT-07, I would have opted for it. It looks cool and has all the goodies of an MT-07 – hard to pass up. D
If you’re not keen on riding in hot, humid conditions then Malaysia may not be for you. You can expect temperatures in the low to mid 30C’s year around, and you can expect your smartphone weather app to tell you that it feels like 40C+ on a regular basis. Add 80% humidity and rainfall that explains why some of the roadside gutters are 2m deep and you’d think you were looking at a place where a 2000km guided motorcycle tour would make for a great survival challenge. The thing is that yes, it’s bloody hot and humid and can be wet, but Malaysia has some of the most awesome bike-friendly roads you’ll find anywhere, with hundreds of kilometres of well-surfaced sweepers and hairpins with light traffic and drivers who pay attention to bikes and don’t try to slow you down or kill you. So, forget the weather (but pack waterproofs and spare gloves) and think of the upsides. Whilst you can just hire a bike and do it yourself, Sarah and I decided to book a 6 night/7 day guided tour around the Malaysian Peninsula, including a rest day in Penang, with Malaysian Motorcycle Getaways (MMG) who operate out of Kota Damansara in the Kuala Lumpur suburbs.
The flight to KL from Sydney landed us there the day before the tour started and we had booked ourselves into a cheap hotel a short taxi ride from the MMG base. The hotel room was about the same size as an airline toilet and about as comfortable as a jail cell but hey, it did the job.
Rocking up to the MMG offices at around 8:30am on Day 1 we were greeted by Feizal and Zahed, the tour operators. We’ve known these guys for a while via Facebook but this was our first actual meet and they’re two of the nicest blokes you could hope to spend time on the road with. We would be accompanied by Zahed and one other guide, on bikes (one at the front and one trail), for the whole tour. Feizal joined us for the first couple of days. First task at MMG HQ was to transfer our luggage from the suitcases we flew to Malaysia with into hard panniers and top boxes. We even surprised ourselves when everything
fitted with room to spare. That was followed by a briefing from Feizal and Zahed of road rules and etiquette which also gave us the opportunity to meet the other riders on the tour. Sarah and I were both riding solo and there were two other rider/pillion pairs joining us for the whole tour and another couple who would stay with us for a day or so and then head off on their own.
The bikes were a Kawasaki 650 Versys for me and a Yamaha FZ6 Diversion for Sarah (as she’s a shorty and the Versys isn’t meant for them). The bikes are well-maintained high mileage units fitted with Givi hard luggage and they’re the kind of bikes that are well suited to 250-350km-a-day rides as they’re comfortable, relatively frugal in terms of fuel consumption, and easy to ride. I ride a Speed Triple and an early model FireBlade at home and Sarah has an MT09 so in theory, the hire bikes were a significant step down from our usual mounts but we found that, aside from the fact that the FZ6 could really do with a 6th gear, the bikes were well suited to the kind of riding the tour served up.
The destination for the first day’s ride was Melaka, around 230km to the south. With the briefing and bike prep done, it was a little after 10:00am as we eased out into the KL traffic. Although the worst of the rush hour had passed, it was still a fairly intense introduction to riding in Malaysia. Despite the volume of traffic, it quickly became apparent that whilst some of the moves other drivers made seemed ‘bold’ they were actually pretty aware of what was going on around them and once you figured out the rules, it was easy to make progress without thinking you were going to get taken out at every junction. Yes, cars will pull out from side streets but in doing so, they hug the kerb and leave plenty of room for you to pass them before they pull out into traffic which may or may not be accompanied by the use of indicators but you get used to that too. At least they drive on the same side of the road as us (most of the time) so that was one thing we didn’t have to worry about.
Escaping the metropolis took us about half an hour. Once we got out of the city, everything changed and we found ourselves in a green lush countryside with moderate traffic and excellent roads. The Malaysians know how to lay a fine bit of tarmac and they don’t seem much invested in straight lines so curves, lots of them, are the order of play. They’re also well signposted although they could save a lot of money not putting up speed limits because no one takes much notice of them. That’s not to say there’s wanton reckless speeding, it’s just that for the most part drivers seem to drive to the conditions and sometimes that’s higher than the posted speed limit. And from time to time, you might get stuck behind a truck that’s going MUCH slower than the posted limit and if it’s in a tight section of road, you may be stuck there for a little while.
As the day wore on, the temperature crept up above 30C and it’s worth mentioning riding gear at this point because there’s a bit of a balancing act to be done between
protection but not wearing a mobile sauna. MMG did have clothing to hire but we decided to bring our own with us and whilst that’s a bit of a pain when it comes to packing we found that we were able to take a good set of gear without having to worry about airline weight limits or how far our suitcases would stretch.
We both packed lightweight vented, armoured textile jackets, Kevlar jeans, summer gloves (two pairs), shorty boots, helmets, back protectors plus waterproof over-trousers and jackets. We found the gear we took was well suited to the conditions. Leathers, even vented ones, would have been unbearable in the heat. And as it turned out our luck held, and we never needed the waterproofs; we only encountered one light shower on the road. Some of the evening downpours were pretty epic, but we were off the road by then. This is a deliberate tactic by the MMG guys as the heavy rain usually comes later in the day, so they try to finish the days ride by 4:005:00pm where possible.
stints were on average around about an hour which was plenty long enough as the heat and dehydration can creep up on you very quickly if you don’t stop to refresh regularly. On reflection, a Camelbak would’ve been a handy addition to our gear although there was never a point where we felt that we should’ve stopped earlier for a break. The morning stop would usually be at a roadside café where hot or iced tea, water and energy drinks were always available (and cheap) and the drinks would be accompanied by a plate of roti canai, (a lightly fried fresh flatbread) with a couple of savoury dips as accompaniment.
The first day’s ride was a great introduction to riding in Malaysia and we rolled into Melaka around 5:30pm and headed straight for the hotel, which was pre-booked and paid for as part of the MMG package. This one, like all of the others that we stayed in whilst on tour were perfectly serviceable and were probably equivalent to 4 star when new but had aged into a pleasant 3.5 star quality. In the evening, Faizal and Zahed took us out for some excellent local street food at a night market close to where the fishing boats docked.
The run to Melaka hitting the
The routine for the rest of the tour was roughly the same, head out between 8:00-8:30am after breakfast in the hotel, get some kms under our bums before a morning tea break, more kms, a lengthier stop for lunch and then an afternoon run with another short snack break somewhere in the mix. And our guides would always pull us up between breaks if there was something interesting on the route which would help us learn a bit more about their country or would make a good photo opportunity. As a daily routine, it was well planned and provided an excellent balance between riding, sightseeing and breaks.
Day 2 took us back north to the Genting Highlands, a relatively short day of just 250km in the saddle. Before hitting the open road, Zahed and Feizal took us to the remains of the Portugese fort overlooking
both the city and the Melaka Straits. Commanding a valuable strategic position on ocean trade routes, the city had a few interludes of colonial occupation with the Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and English all having had their days in the sun. Melaka would be well worth a longer stay but, this time around, the focus being riding and not sightseeing, we only had a brief opportunity to take in the richness of this history before mounting up again.
The roads north from Melaka were once again very bike friendly and it was easy to settle into a decent rhythm without any need to haul on the brakes or throttle too much. These are the sort of roads where a flat torque curve is a lot more use than whole bunch of horses you can’t use. And this was the stretch where Zahed’s rear facing GoPro got a lovely shot of me overtaking a police car over double unbroken lines while exceeding the speed limit. Well he went first so I figured it was OK and given that no blue lights or chase scene ensued, I guess he was right…
Out on the open road, we did occasionally come across roughly patched bits of road but they were rarely more than 50 metres long and the patches were more often than not a different colour to the rest of the tarmac so avoiding them wasn’t too hard.
Our destination on Day 2 was the Genting Highlands, a hill resort about 35km from Kuala Lumpur and perched on the peak of Mount Ulu Kali 1800m above sea level comprising hotels, malls, theme parks and casinos. But set that aside and wonder instead at the awesome stretch of road that winds its way up the peak and is a little slice of fried nirvana if you’re on a bike and looking for good two lane tarmac with sweeping hairpin bends and light traffic. It’s F U N. The End. Although we only went part way up to the peak on arrival at Genting Highlands as we were running a little late and a big storm was on the horizon, we all had huge smiles on our faces when we checked into the hotel.
The evening meal was in town and a couple of Grabs (the Malaysian equivalent of Uber) were arranged to take us there and back. Again the food was plentiful and delicious and we were
rather glad we’d Grab’d rather than ridden into town as the rainstorm that came through as we were leaving the restaurant was world class. Zahed was on his Versys and I think it took him two days to dry out.
Day 3 started with another shot at the glorious road up the peak and this time we went all the way to the top for a brief stop at the Buddhist Temple that has a spectacular view of the valley below. This was followed by another run down that same wonderful stretch of road (if we lived close by, we’d be doing laps all day long) and as this was Saturday a few locals were out enjoying a sprint through the bends on modern sportsbikes or in top end supercars, none of which were being ridden or driven beyond their pilots’ ability from what we saw. Mopeds are everywhere and the throttles appear to only have ‘On’ and ‘Off’ settings because they are often ridden at close to the speed of light but with a fair bit of skill. Given that the protective gear that the moped riders wear is non-existent, and helmets are optional, it’s a fair bet that when things go wrong, it’s ugly.
After our loop of the mountain, the day took us to the Cameron Highlands. This is a stunningly beautiful district around 200km north of KL. The climate is generally much cooler than the lowlands so it’s popular with tourists and farmers. A lot of the hillsides are covered with huge orchard complexes and tea plantations and there’s a fair bit of traffic in the populated areas although nothing that really impedes your progress. The roads are awesome. Open, well maintained tarmac with glorious long sweepers leading into more sweepers, tight bits, more sweepers, more fun which, as the MMG guys say “turn your miles into smiles”.
Road markings are generally good and it’s rare not to have a visible centreline but you do have to pay attention to the road shoulders as they can be a bit rough and the uncovered gutters are often a metre, or two, deep to deal with monsoonal rain. Dipping a wheel in one of those would have been met with swift retribution. After a refreshment break at one of the tea
plantations that was open to the public, we headed on to our hotel through some epic tight twisties.
Days 4 and 5 took us first to Kota Bharu and then to Penang. We had a technical problem with one of the bikes on the run to Kota Bharu, the fuel pump failed and that was the end of the Versys for the day. MMG regrouped quickly and the fault only delayed us an hour or so and as it was a short day to start with, we still rolled into Kota Bharu late afternoon. It was on this run that we encountered traffic lights with a countdown timer on them so you knew how many seconds to go before the next launch. Having timers might seem a bit excessive (albeit entertaining) but you do sometimes come across lights that have a looooong wait time so you’re not sitting there ready to drop the clutch when the timer is telling you it’s still three minutes until your turn.
Day 5 was one of the longest days of the trip but was still only a comfortable 350km or so. Initially we retraced our steps back part of the way back towards Cameron Highlands and then headed on to Penang where we would stay for the night and then have a rest day on day 6. We stayed on Penang Island which is joined to the mainland by two bridges, the longest of which is 24km, and the old ferry. And who doesn’t love bridges and ferries?
After our long day on the road we took the easy option and took the bridge straight over to the island. We ended the day with a fabulous seafood dinner at a restaurant just 5 minutes’ walk from the hotel and it’s worth mentioning here that the evening meals that MMG lined up for us were always excellent. There was a different cuisine every evening and the food was always healthy, tasty and plentiful. It also gave us all a chance to have a chat about the day’s ride and share a few laughs.
At the start of Day 6, our rest day on Penang Island, we took the opportunity offered by Zahed for a very pleasant tour around the island on the bikes which included some fabulous twisty roads. He also took us back across to the mainland so that we could experience the ferry ride back to
Penang Island which was an excellent little detour.
The remainder of the rest day was spent exploring Penang Island with its blend of old and new. It really is a fabulous city and as we were feeling a little lazy, we hired a rickshaw to take us around George Town which is the main tourist centre of the island. We were particularly taken by the murals and artwork painted on a lot of the walls, many of which depicted scenes and stories that related to the shop or street they were painted on. Penang has a much heavier Chinese influence than elsewhere in Malaysia and that’s never more obvious than at the Clan Jetties. These were originally built to house the labourers who built Penang Harbour and, as the name suggests, each jetty was, and still is, the home to one of the eight clans. We ended the day at a street market where, as usual, the food was cheap, plentiful and varied.
Day 7 was the long haul back to KL from Penang, roughly 350km, and much of the riding on Day 7 was mile munching on the freeways although we did have a couple of excursions on some more entertaining roads to break up the day. Whilst the motorways are mostly toll roads, bikes get to fly for free and at each toll gate, there was a bike-sized lane for us to use that avoided the pay booths. Sometimes these little bike bypasses would loop around behind a building or two before rejoining the motorway but that just added to the entertainment.
It was a screamingly hot day and by the time we landed back in Kota Damansara, we were glad to strip off the bike gear and chill for a little while before bidding our hosts and ride buddies farewell.
At the end of the road trip, we booked ourselves into a fancy hotel in KL for a couple of nights, had a bit of R&R, caught up with some KL-based friends and did a bit of tourist stuff. It was a great way to close out our time in Malaysia. That was separate from the MMG package.
The MMG package itself covered almost all of the costs we incurred in Malaysia on the road trip. Hotels, breakfast, lunch and dinner were
included as were the mid-morning and mid-afternoon snacks. Fuel was at our own expense but between the two us of, Sarah and I spent about $60 on fuel for the whole trip. We would also stock up on bottles of water, tea or Ribena (Sarah’s addiction) at fuel stops and that was also at our expense but most bottled drinks came in at around $1 each so that was never going to break the bank either.
We would thoroughly recommend a riding trip in Malaysia to anyone with a bit of riding experience under their belts. You don’t need to have been riding for decades to be up the challenge but neither would we recommend it to someone with less than a couple of years’ experience. The MGG operation is slick and friendly, you feel like friends more than guests. The whole operation hangs together so well with the baulky fuel pump on the Versys being the only the only issue encountered along the way and that was dealt with professionally. And here’s the thing, Feizal and Zahed are lovely blokes who enjoy their work and they really want you to have a good time whilst exploring their country. And we did…
We came away from the trip with very fond memories of Malaysia, its people and its roads. Would we go back to explore some more? For sure. Would we do it with MMG? Without hesitation.
Disclaimer: one of these days someone might pay us to go on holiday, but this wasn’t it, we paid for the flights and the tour in full. We flew Malaysia Airlines from Sydney to KL, the flights were on-time, the staff was really good, and the food wasn’t too bad at all. Clearing customs and immigration in KL was easy. As mentioned above, Grab is the local equivalent to Uber, the service we got was cheap and reliable.
Malaysian Motorcycle Getaways (Winner of 2015 Tourism Malaysia Award (Sports & Recreation) can be found on Facebook or at http:/www.ridemalaysia.com.my/ and their 2020 tour calendar is now available on their website. Say hi to Feizal and Zed from us! D
aFter The Fires
Don’t forget them WORDS/PHOTOS BOB WOZGA
AreD Dot In tHe hazy western sky descends to the horizon while the evening news shows fires on Sydney’s rim. Thousands of people have volunteered their time to fight the fires or to support the fire fighters by feeding, watering and sheltering the crews. Houses and sheds had been lost; many had been saved. As informative as the news reports
have been and as graphic as the footage is that we saw, the real impact of the devastation to the communities is only clear when traveling through and seeing for yourself what has happened. The TV is graphic, but it is still only a window, almost like a barrier that dissociates you from what you are seeing.
From Razorback south of Sydney, a smoke plume rises in the distance
and an easterly wind looks like it is blowing back onto itself. The weather alerts indicated today is the safest day to travel for the next week. Coming through Bargo, melted road posts lie bent on the shoulders surrounded by charcoal remains of bottles and cans. Two service stations have miraculously survived; there are signs that the flames were almost lapping their walls. The firies have
averted a greater disaster. Passing the Tennessee Orchard, a flareup sends smoke flowing south, creating an orange hue over the orchard. Riding through Colo Vale and Hill Top to check on a family farm, a quiet apprehension settles on me as I ride the streets. Through the smokefilled air, cars are parked in front of houses in anticipation to evacuate. No people are to be seen in their yards or
local shops, possibly listening they’re to the radio for updates. Luckily houses were saved but surrounding bush is charred. As the wind changes direction toward town, the sky gets darker and thumping blades of a Bell Huey are heard getting closer. The silhouette of the chopper cruises past, just above the tree canopy surveying the ground below. A water hose dangles from its undercarriage.
The RFS does a wonderful job and the town is safe for the moment. Heading back through Balmoral, the devastation is hard to comprehend, the air becomes acrid and visibility decreases the further I head north. “Thank you” signs are draped over gates and fences for the RFS volunteers, in other paddocks remnants of houses and people’s lives lie in ruins surrounded by thick
smoke. Through the darkness, red and blue flashing lights still patrol the road, just in case of flareups.
Of course, we need to support the RFS as much as we can to ensure they have the appropriate resources to carry out the vital service they give to our communities. But at the same time, we also need to support those communities, villages and towns that have been affected by fires, long lasting droughts, floods or any other natural disaster. Very simply put, we need country towns’ survival for urban survival. They relieve congestion in urban areas, they supply us with produce, they help our mental state by giving us the opportunity to relax in open green spaces (https:// www.vichealth.vic.gov.au/letter/ articles/vh-letter-46-great-outdoorsand-health-equity).
A month after the fires, when they are not featured on the nightly news, we are likely to forget what has happened during the summer and move on to the next major story. Meanwhile, the rural towns and villages will still be coming to terms with their losses and defiantly carrying on. They are a stoic group of people, but they will need help rebuilding and maintaining their world. Help them out; there are many places worth a visit.
In the Southern Highlands for example, Bowral is a major business hub for the district, quite elegant in its architecture and renowned for its shops, galleries and vineyards. It makes a perfect stopping point before exploring the neighbouring towns.
The best ways of supporting these communities is by visiting them. Often the towns have a whole history that you never knew about. Stories of an Aboriginal past you may not have known existed, stories of industries that never prospered and faded or simply stories. Tales of drovers are common. These towns also rely on passing trade to keep them alive and on their outlying areas to supply fresh produce for their cafes and their weekend markets. Often, they have
cottage industries that produce craftworks, jams, honey and art works that you won’t fi nd in major stores specialising in mass produced goods. For the foodies, these towns also have fantastic wineries and restaurants that can be better than those in the city. Through the year it is worth embarking on a seasonal road trip through the country to explore what’s there. Buy a gift for your wife or husband, maybe just a bottle of wine to take home. Buy a beer for a mate. Take a group of friends on a cherry-picking excursion when in season or just ride to a country town to get some fish and chips and see what you can find on the way. It all helps these communities stay in existence and lets them know they are not just part of the nightly news. We can all help, and we can have a good time while we do. D
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
DECEMBER 2019, ROLLIES
Speed Shop is celebrating 40 years in the Australian motorcycle industry. From humble beginnings, it has grown to become Australia’s largest distributor of parts and accessories for V-Twin motorcycles.
In 1979 Rollie Callow was a keen uni student with a passion for motorcycles and a natural talent for making them go fast. The original Rollies Speed Shop was a small workshop located in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley. Rollie gained a reputation as one of the best Harley-Davidson specialists in the country and soon had to relocate Rollies Speed Shop to larger premises in neighbouring Newstead.
Business continued to grow rapidly and to meet the needs of his everincreasing customer base, Rollie started sourcing performance and custom aftermarket parts from American suppliers. Due to the limited availability of parts at the time, and the huge
demand for such parts, Rollies Speed Shop grew to become a destination for motorcycle riders and mechanics alike, all keen to get their hands on the latest and greatest performance parts.
Over the years Rollies Speed Shop has morphed and grown to meet market demands. While the original Newstead workshop is still operational, the adjacent property has housed retail showrooms, a motorcycle dealership, and is now home to extensive warehousing and sales offices at the heart of the Rollies wholesale operations.
grown to meet market demands.
like The Bear did with his H-D 72 a while ago. Their website is home to more than 10,000 parts from more than 100 manufacturers and is now one of Australia’s most popular motorcyclerelated sites.
Today in its 40th year of business, Rollies Speed Shop is still committed to supporting the motorcycle industry and riders across Australia and New Zealand. The Rollies team is happy to help not just wholesale customers, but anyone who needs help sourcing parts or planning a build of their own – just
To celebrate 40 years of motorcycling excellence, Rollies has released a limited edition 40th Anniversary merch range available at the all new clothing site www.vtwinapparel.com.au for a limited time only.
For more information or to find your local dealer, phone (07) 3252 5381 or see www.rolliesspeedshop.com . D
LONGTERMERS
TOUGH STUFF
Royal Enfield Interceptor 650
ITHOUGHT I’D GIVE you a bit of an update this issue of how the Interceptor 650 has been going. It has been ridden near daily in all types of weather (mostly stinking hot) but it’s also done the trip to Phillip Island and back (which we wrote about a few issues ago) and has now clocked up just over 10,000km in our care. Apart from the usual service the only things that have required maintenance were a new set of tyres and one fork seal.
The left fork seal blew on the trip back from Phillip Island on a stretch of dirt road where I’d say it was being ridden a bit beyond the design brief. That’s what you get when ex-racers get on the seat.
There have been no other issues or concerns to report on – the Interceptor has been ultra-reliable and a pleasure to ride.
Dream list – if there was to be a ‘no budget’ on what we could do to the Interceptor 650 the first two things I’d do are the forks (gold valves, new springs, oil and so on) and a pair of Ohlins or Ikon shocks.
Second on the list would be a topquality front caliper for ultra-stopping power; then a Pro-Taper handlebar in the bend that would make the riding
position even and little
HONDA GB400
What I wanted for my new project was a Kawasaki W800. I’ve owned a W800 before, and the new model seemed to address the (mild) criticism I had of the first model. But it was not to be –Kawasaki Australia is bringing in the
YOU
CAN’T ALWAYS GET WHAT YOU WANT…
…BUT IF YOU TRY SOMETIMES, YOU JUST MIGHT FIND YOU GET WHAT YOU NEED.
better and lastly a custom-made seat for a little bit more comfort.
The engine performance is adequate but for open road riding with mates, a full exhaust, custom fuelling box, maybe changing the cam timing and a freer-flowing airbox would be the go (watch this space), to unleash some more fun. You can feel the Interceptor is restricted, no doubt to meet all the regulations a new bike has to nowadays. All of these things would be fun to do.
That’s a quick wrap up of what the Interceptor 650 has been like to live with these past few months but there’s still more to do with it… watch these pages. SW
café racer and street models, but not the plain ol’ 800. I was going to have to look elsewhere for my stripped back, slick everyday project.
Fortunately, the alternative was already sitting in my garage. A while back I bought a Honda GB400 A7, ‘customised’ but still with all the good bits. This was going to be a project in a while, but the W800 dropping out moved it forward. And the more I looked at it, the more it seemed that it was capable of sustaining the same kind of customizing as the Kawasaki. I had a new project: half the size, but all the class (by the time I was finished).
The main thing I needed to do was to create a pattern for the bike I wanted. Well, that and a budget. This is not going to be a big money build. In this case, the pattern was a kind of British café racer,
but without many of the by now rather hackneyed design features. Many of the bike’s parts were fine already – the engine, the frame (although it would need powder coating), the pipe, the tank and the side covers. I did consider removing the side covers; I could have fitted the battery somewhere unobtrusive, but it seemed like altogether too much trouble to relocate the oil tank. So the covers stayed, and in fact that gave me an opportunity for a bit of a design flash (details later).
The seat was just plain awful, and the riding position was designed for an aggressive midget. This would take some work to sort out, but at least I wasn’t destroying a perfectly good motorcycle as I have, sadly, done in the past.
Something that’s easy to forget when you’re creating your very own custom bike is that successful style starts with the small things. To get those right, I went to our friends at Rizoma in Italy and ordered a whole batch of parts which would give us a stylish, smart and unquestionably ‘just right’ look, straight off the bat. Rizoma has a substantial range of parts for bikes that are popular for customising – like BMW’s R nine T - but it also offers quite a few general parts. Looking through those gave me an excellent start. This project is intended to be affordable, so it might surprise you that I chose the upmarket Rizoma, but here’s a lesson I learned many years ago: start with good material and you’ll get a good result. Australian Rizoma importer Gas Imports (gasimports.com.au) will be able to help you with this if you’re a quality freak as well.
The secret of this project is going to be that we will do what needs doing, but we’ll stop at that. It is easy to head off into Big Bucks territory – I’ve done it myself in the past – with engine replacements and the like. This bike will retain its engine, its frame and its wheels and much more – but I bet you won’t recognize it when we‘ve finished. Here we go then with Project Pommie. It could use a better name. Want to suggest one? Recommendations gratefully received. PT D
SMART. COMPACT. GENIUS!
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GOOD DAY Sunshine
…but please not too much, even on a BMW F 750 GS
WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR
Nothing like a sunny day to get the bike out for a ride. Provided there isn’t too much sunshine, that is. After the recent fires it seemed like a good idea to go and see one of the people most affected by the fire, Kim at the Grey Gum café on Sydney’s Putty Road. Kim has a long record of looking after motorcyclists so I thought the best thing I could do was go and spend a few dollars at the café.
The day was looking pretty good; admittedly the temperature was forecast to reach 40 degrees at Windsor on the Hawkesbury River, but hey – I’ve ridden in 55 degrees in the Ganges valley in India. Surely I would be able to handle a mere forty. I had conveniently forgotten that the Indian ride was 40 years ago and I was 32 at the time. Believe it or not, that makes a difference…
I had an F 750 GS on loan from BMW, the Tour version with all the bling, so it was a good opportunity to stretch the bike’s legs. Call it 250km there and back, somewhere between three and four hours including a relaxing stop. Great morning run. Seeing that it was going to be hot, I wore a ventilated Ixon jacket, Draggin jeans, Klim summer gloves and my RJays open face commuting helmet. All good for riding in the heat. Unfortunately, perhaps not quite good enough for the heat I encountered. The ride was fine at first, even though I was caught up in traffic all the way to Windsor where the new bridge is a real eyesore. I’m sure it will be good eventually, but at the moment it looks completely out of place. The mercury was already over the forecast 40 degrees, and I topped up with some water and a can of soft drink for sugar. Traffic thinned out to Wilberforce, and then the road became
1.The heat affects signs in the most curious ways.
2. The sign makes it tough for any business along the road that’s open, like Grey Gums. Ignore it and go visit Kim.
eerily quiet, something that was explained by the signs advising that it was closed beyond Grey Gum. The F 750 GS loves to run, so I gave it its head and enjoyed the initial few kilometres of the Putty Road. By Colo, however, I could see the beginning of the devastation the fires had caused. While there was an occasional unburnt tree by the roadside, the rest of the landscape looked as if it had been replaced by a carbon copy. Or perhaps a carbonized copy. On the bright side, this opens up views you’ve never had before. Off to the left I could see down into the Colo River valley where some greenery remained, a tribute to the firefighters who had beaten the blaze to a standstill. That was outweighed by the dark side, though, endless hectares of scarred bush without birds or other animals. By this time the thermometer on the bike was tipping 47 degrees, and I had long lowered my visor and zipped up my jacket. Wind chill is all very well, but at an air temperature of about 35 degrees it reverses and becomes wind heating and you’re better off protecting yourself from it. The difference between cooling and heating is obvious when you stop. I pulled over to take a few photos and actually felt cooler than I had when riding. Australian vegetation is amazing. It
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Once a roadside phone, this is now a melted robot lookalike.
had been little more than a couple of weeks since the fires, but some of the burnt stumps and stake-like bare trees were already putting out new growth. It gives you hope, but then you think of the lives lost – both human and animal – and the property losses and it becomes less reassuring and more terrifying. The land is saying go ahead, do what you want. When you’re gone I’ll still be here with new green shoots on my trees.
The Grey Gum restaurant was obviously suffering; there were only three bikes including mine parked on the concrete slab that Kim has so thoughtfully provided for safe parking, and no cars at all. She was in good form, though, and we chatted for a while about the fi refi ghters for whom she had provided meals and other facilities like an opportunity to wash.
Let me just make an appeal here to all of you. By the time you read this it will have been some time since the fires – I certainly hope it will be – but the communities affected by them will still be suffering. Please, visit them and spend a few dollars. Many of them, like Grey Gum, have been good to us in happier times and it’s almost an obligation to help them now. I’m planning several more rides out there with friends.
“Gimme an F”
A coffee and a slice of Kim’s famous apple pie later, with one bottle of water in a pannier and another inside me, I turned back towards Sydney. It was still 47 degrees, and as I rode though the devastated countryside a strange state took over my brain. Without realizing it, I was losing my critical faculties. The heat and, despite topping up the dehydration were combining to make me… reckless, I guess. I found myself riding oddly; things like trying to even out corners excessively and swinging from side to side on the straights. I was also riding quite fast. Nothing too strange, but not my usual style.
A friend used to drive trucks across the Nullarbor, and he once told me that he’d seen a bike parked by the side of the road out in the middle of nowhere. Being a motorcyclist himself, he pulled over (no mean feat in one of those huge trucks) and walked back to the bike. There was no sign of the rider except a line of footprints leading off at into the desert at a right angle. He followed them and found scattered articles of clothing before eventually spotting the rider face down, unconscious in the sand.
My friend carried this bloke back to the truck and applied copious amounts of water externally and
Country Joe and the Fish made that opening line immortal at Woodstock, but to me it refers to a motorcycle – or perhaps I should say a line of motorcycles. I have liked BMW’s F series bikes ever since they were introduced, and the one I rode for this story is no different. While the factory’s odd and somewhat confusing description of the F bikes – the 750 shares the 850cc engine of the F 850 and the F 850 Adventure – the bikes themselves are quite different.
The F 750 GS is the ‘softer’ version of the range, with lower suspension and numerous other less hard-core features. This makes it a wonderful all-rounder. I’ve ridden 750s and their predecessors on and off all sorts of roads along with its bigger brother, and it does everything I want it to do.
When it occurred to me that it might be fun to build a present-day version of my around-the-world Honda XL250, the F 750 GS presented itself as an almost irresistible base. That’s partly because so many high-quality touring accessories are available for the bike, as you’ll see in future editions.
Yes, I’m going to build up my vision of an around-the-world motorcycle. Will I ride it around the world? Well, probably not. But even Mrs Bear recently suggested that I might like to retrace some of my travels, so you never know. Stay tuned.
Er… I wonder why she suggested that?
internally until he came to. The rider had no idea what he had been doing, and their conclusion was simply: heat exhaustion.
I wasn’t anywhere near that state, but I wasn’t being sensible either. Despite knowing, in a remote sort of a way, that I was overheating and should get home as quickly as I could, I took the Lower Colo Road turnoff at the Colo bridge, adding both time and difficulty – the road is dirt - to my ride. I don’t recall much of the next few kilometres, but fortunately I stopped when I reached Tractor 828 and wandered into the café. I got a bottle of iced water from the counter and poured it over my head – outside, fortunately. After another bottle of water applied to my insides, I continued although I probably should have waited a while.
On the way home I definitely wasn’t right, weaving from lane to lane and
failing to notice when traffic lights changed. I was also beginning to feel quite lightheaded, and riding more on automatic than consciously. It’s just as well that I know all of the roads I was taking, I think. When I rolled into my garage I put the bike on its sidestand and collapsed. As soon as I felt up to it, I crawled into a cold shower. In one of Spike Milligan’s books he wrote about a bloke who “drew a bath and drank it” and that’s what I felt like doing. By the way, I had completely forgotten about the bottle of water in the pannier. It was still hot when I remembered to take it out the next morning.
The lesson is pretty obvious, but applying it is not. If you get hot enough, or indeed if you get cold enough, your critical faculties abandon you. You become irresponsible and
you may start acting as if you were drunk. Unfortunately that also means that you may not realise what’s happening to you. Is there an answer to this? Apart from avoiding either state in the first place, I can’t think of one. Except, I guess, monitoring how you’re coping… if you can. D
1. Australian bush recuperates amazingly well.
2.The firies saved the Colo Bra-Tree, though it’s not offering much shade for passing swagmen.
ASIAN TORTURE TEST
Dririder Rallycross Pro 3 Adventure
Jacket and Pants WORDS BRETT SPINUCCI
PRICE - JACKET $419.95, PANTS $249.95
FIRST, AS A BIT of an introduction to the DriRider RallyCross Pro 3, the suit
comprises separate pants and jacket and comes with both thermal and also waterproof zip-in (removable) layers.
The level of adjustability for fi t is good on both jacket and pants
with Velcro straps for waist and arms and as a bonus, the jacket is fi tted with a pocket in the back that takes a 2lt hydration bladder - which is included in the price. Both jacket and pants are
constructed from Ripstop Cordura and Polyester in various thicknesses with stretch panels for comfort and multiple zippered ventilation panels in the chest, back and pants.
People will often question the crash protection available with textile/fabric suits, however with the RallyCross Pro 3 the shoulders and elbows have both external and internal CE armour protection, plus there’s more CE amour in the knees, hips, elbows and shoulders and a high-density foam back protector. With the suit on, you feel extremely secure and solid with a pleasing feel of quality and sturdiness.
Given that adventure riding is mostly conducted off-road at well below highway speeds, the likely type of crash is single vehicle. When used within its design parameters, the construction and level of protection offered is arguably as good as that of a set of leathers for any off-road riding environment.
The added bonus of textile suits is their waterproofing and the ability to better control the temperature and hence riding comfort.
Last month a few friends and I did a nine-day tour of Cambodia and Vietnam and I was privileged to try both jacket and pants in a variety of conditions over about 1300 kilometres including river crossings, mud, single track and some road riding too.
A relative newcomer to the DriRider line-up, the RallyCross Pro 3 was a bonus in the often wet and variable temperatures and conditions we encountered, but on this occasion, I
elected to leave the thermal layers at home and just packed the suit and the waterproof liners for both pants and jacket.
On Day 1 and about 100km out of Phnom Penh we encountered what we thought was going to be a quick tropical storm and I just didn’t have the urge to stop and zip the lining in as we all thought it was going to just chuck it down for 5-10 minutes and then stop – your typical Cambodian afternoon storm.
morning. Buddha wasn’t listening (my usual problem with all religious deities) and the suit and my boots and my gloves were still uncomfortably wet, but someone had the genius idea (maybe Buddha’s enlightenment?) to slip the lining into the suit to protect my dry clothing from a very wet suit.
So off we go with squishy boots, squishy gloves and the suit now with lining in.
After about an hour that first cold trickle made its way to my “mangarden” and in hindsight I regretted not stopping. But let’s face it, once that first breach reaches the old wedding tackle, it’s too damned late anyway and you’re kidding yourself that stopping (in the rain) and fitting your waterproof liners can help at that stage.
So this test not only looks at the normal aspects of fit, purpose and safety, but includes the added bonus extra “idiot test” of how well does it dry out once completely drenched in a 5 hour Cambodian monsoonal downpour. I can only quantify the rainfall by saying that by the time we got to the accommodation we up-ended our boots to pour the water out of them – yes, we were THAT wet.
The suit was extremely waterlogged and as I hung it overnight, I said a small prayer to Buddha to try to dry it as much as possible by
Surprisingly the whole lot was close to dry by our lunch stop and (with the exception of my boots) completely dry at the end of the day.
I couldn’t half wait to get that rain lining back out though as the temperatures throughout the day were now in the low 30s and I was stewing like a casserole without the cooling airflow..
Once you stopped by the side of the road, the need to get out of the jacket became immediately obvious –or possibly that was my man-o-pause kicking in with hot flushes!
The range of temperatures in which I used the suit spanned from about 17C degrees in the mornings up to 34C in the day and the decision to leave the thermal lining at home was completely justified.
With the waterproof lining out, even 34C was totally fine just as long as you were on the bike and kept moving.
Although I didn’t get to test the thermal lining, with the sturdy construction of both jacket and pants and both thermal and waterproof lining zipped in, it is my opinion that it would be fine for low single digit conditions.
If this is your only riding suit, its operational temperature range will be very pleasing and the Rallycross Pro 3 will give years of good service while looking and behaving like a quality piece of kit should. D
ROUND - THEWORLD - AGAIN
How would you put together a bike for the big trip? WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR
IF I’D KNOWN THEN what I know now… I would have done exactly the same thing I did back in 1977 when Charlie and I built our round-the-world (rtw) bikes on the basis of Honda XL250s and created
www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au
a pattern that’s still used today. But since I know some more things now, and the technology is there to apply them, I’m going to do something a little different.
This business started at the bar
of the pub formerly known as the Geargrinders’ Arms. It began with a casual discussion of which bike you’d want if you were going to do something or other, and ended (after a liberal application of Guinness)
Charlie with our bikes, filling up the Acerbis tanks at a Malaysian petrol station.
with me promising that I’d build the bike I would want for a rtw bike if I was to do it now.
Build, mind you, not just describe or design.
As is so often the case, I was somewhat the worse for wear the next morning, but I remembered what I’d said. It didn’t matter, actually, because I was reminded the next time I fronted the bar. By then I’d come to terms with the idea for three reasons. I needed a new bike to play with anyway; I had just come back from a ride of the bushfire country on a BMW F 750 GS; and I could see other applications for such a motorcycle, not just rtw rides.
The ride on the GS had only confirmed what I thought anyway, namely that this is the best all-round motorcycle on the road (and off it a bit) today, at least for people like me. Who are people like me? We’re at the upper end of the range of motorcyclist’s ages; we’ve been there and done a bit and don’t need to prove anything; and we know quality when we see it. We also tend to be a bit technology-shy; not of everything, but enough so the most common retort to a description of some new electronic ‘aid’ or other seems to be “what would you want that for?” followed by a dismissive clacking of false teeth. We’re also “not now that strength which in old days / Moved earth and heaven” as Tennyson has it. We prefer light bikes, and although the F 750 GS is hardly light at 224 kilos wet, it’s certainly lighter than many other bikes suitable for the same tasks. Despite that, it will happily carry luggage and is fine for two-up riding.
The BMW F 750 GS it was, then. By the way, I’m happy to argue about this choice as much as you like. Drop me a note at thebear@ausmotorcyclist. com.au and we’ll debate.
1. Black plastic to make the panniers rainproof, and a U-lock to stop theft. As if.
2. My bike in the US on the final stage of the ride. Note the windscreen and top box.
2
Okay. Charlie and I designed everything for the Hondas ourselves, except for Acerbis tanks and the tank ‘bags’ which were a gift from his mates at University. We scrounged stuff from other friends, too, and generally put in a lot of work. But, how do I tell you this – I’m over that kind of thing. Today, there is a vast range of touring equipment available and I suspect that all of it is better than the gear we made ourselves. So I’m going to take the easy and, I suspect, higher quality way out. Looking through their website, and then looking through the methods and systems they employ, made it obvious that my best choice for accessories was Wunderlich in Germany. They are dedicated to offering high quality and welldesigned parts for BMWs – you may
have seen my story about the way they make a bash plate. It shouldn’t surprise anyone that I ordered one of those bash plates as well as a lot of other gear.
I’ll introduce you to the details in the next issue. In the meantime I’d be interested in your ideas of what a rtw bike should have in the way of equipment. The email address is above, I’d like to hear from you. After all, around-the-world or just really long distance riding is becoming quite the thing these days. If riders aren’t setting off to ride from Ushuaia to Alaska they’re likely to be heading around Australia. Why not; modern bikes can handle this easily.
Whether riders (like me) can is another question, of course. I’m working on ideas for a trial ride on the F 750 when it’s ready; I’ve been
around Australia, but I’ve never done the road around the bottom of the Gulf, or the Gibb River Road. Neither have I been to the tip of Cape York. While I have been to the Bungle Bungles, I wouldn’t mind going again, especially if I could arrange another helicopter flight over the beehive rocks when I’m there. I guess I won’t make all of them, but maybe one or two… Come to think of it, I wouldn’t mind seeing a bit more of the remote parts of the Flinders Ranges, either. Stay tuned. After all, I’m only 73.
(Please excuse the quality, or lack thereof, of the photos. They’re scans of old transparencies.) D
And here it is! Except this is a F 750 GS Tour; mine will be the plain cooking version.
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1976
Clocked in WORDS/PHOTOS STUART
THE RESTORATION OF
my ’76 Z900 has slowed a bit recently. The main reason for this is blowing up the engine in the FZR1000 race bike. That has taken money I’d be using for the Z900 resto. However, in the meantime I have put the new instruments together and fitted them to the bike. The A4 has a different set of ‘idiot’ lights up the middle and trying to work out what globe goes where was a bit of a headache. The wiring diagrams I have don’t indicate wire colour, so I put the call out on the Z1 Owners page on Facebook and a guy overseas had a colour diagram for me. I have also fitted up the starter gear, rotor and all that business that lives under the left-hand engine cover. I am yet to purchase the engine covers, which are available new, aftermarket.
KAWASAKI Z900 A4
I have also been ‘playing around’ with the new wiring harnesses. Yes, ‘harnesses’: the Z900 comes in five or six pieces and I’m in the process of working out what goes where. If you’re anything like me, the ‘joy’ of electrics is a head scratching experience.
I have sent the carbie bits and pieces to the vapour blaster and he’s also going to plate the bits that need zinc plating. What’s up next? On the whole
there’s really not that much left to do. It all comes down to a matter of money. Buying the exhausts cost $2500, paintwork is around $2000 and I still need to buy new front calipers, brake lines and clutch, speedo and tacho cables. Doesn’t seem like much but I think it’s going to take a few more months to fi nally fi re this brand-new beauty into life. I can’t wait! D
Huh? What did you say?
if you can’t be a shining example, at least you can be a terrible warning “ ”
WhaT’S ThaT? Huh?
S ound Bites WORDS Rod
Taylo R PHOTOS Rod Taylo R , d avid Tille R , C R aig Ja C kson
“W
ArtS on your acne?” “Uh huh.”
Actually, I had no idea what she said. Maybe it was “Want some action?” Did that mean I was headed for a good night or a knee in the groin?
When my hearing went and confusion took over, my slide towards deafness was probably the crappiest experience of my entire visit to this planet.
My riding mates have grown used to it. Mostly. If we stop by the roadside to discuss where the next turn is, I have to take my helmet off, remove my earplugs, stand close and cup my hands to my ears. Even then, I’ll struggle to follow what they’re saying. It’s much simpler instead for me to just follow the leader and see where we end up. Which probably suits me better, because as a grand master of
inspirational navigation, we’re likely to end up in some random location anyway - if I’m leading the way. So, was it caused by riding bikes? Probably not, but there’s no doubt the noise under a helmet can be severe and may well have been a contributor. If you ride a bike with a lot of wind noise and no earplugs, your ears are copping a beating.
Noise inside your helmet depends on
the aerodynamics of your bike, your helmet and the conditions, but it could be over 100dB. Permanent damage occurs with prolonged exposure at 90-95dB.
Trust me, your hearing is not a boomerang because once it’s gone it doesn’t come back. If you get off the bike with ringing in your ears or for a while sounds seem a little distorted, you’re doing damage.
Over the past ten years I’ve progressively lost chunks of my hearing to the point where I’m now severely impaired. Maybe it was coincidence, but one of those chunks disappeared on a ride to the desert. I remember sitting outside the Innamincka pub and remarking to my mates that my ears were bad. It wasn’t until I got home that I realised just how bad they were.
Anne found me dejectedly
Even with custom moulded earplugs I was getting too much noise, and I was thinking, “This is it. I have to give up bikes and all that has meant to me. The thrills, the unique experiences across our wonderful country, the shared joys with my mates. I can’t ride anymore.”
Then in one of those gems available only from your Life Coach, she said “Why not just fit a bigger windshield?”
Well, duh! So, I did and there was much rejoicing.
A good conversation starter, I find, is the topic of how your hearing works. “Hey, wanna see my cochlea?”
Well it seemed like a good idea until I got the acne-warts reply. Surely everybody knows the cochlear is the tiny organ… of your middle ear, about the size of a pea. Inside the shell-like coils are rows of sensor hairs that waggle back and forth when stimulated by sound. Hit these with excessive volume, and they bend, break, or even snap. Things like gunshots, jet engines and loud music can do that. So too, will accumulated noise exposure on a motorbike.
Your cochlea is filled
with DOT3 hydraulic fluid that must be changed regularly. Okay not really. Although it is hydraulic, it’s actually not much different to seawater. Its job
Rod Taylor
Moulded ear plugs
is to transmit pressure waves to the sensor hairs.
And because it’s more viscous than air, you need the three small bones in the middle ear to pump sounds from the outside air. Remarkably, these are kinda like a BMW telelever suspension system, except for the spring.
After Anne’s prompting, I fitted a big arse windshield to my Tiger XC800. It looks a bit like a flying brick and the mounting system is as stylish as something bodgied up by a home handyman but it works, and it certainly keeps the noise down. Apart from that, the only disadvantage is when you need
to look through it while riding across grotty terrain. My custom silicone moulded earplugs from Earmold are great and the cheapo sponge ones from the chemist are also pretty good, though not as effective. Or you could use wax swimming earplugs which are close to the custom moulds. “There are many types of ear plugs available on the market for riding”. Ed
Anne put a bigger windscreen on her F700, which she says is effective.
Then she bought a pair of the Earmold silicone plugs with embedded speakers so she can listen to music while riding. I was in two minds about these because it’s pushing more sound into the ears, but they reduce external noise and, with the larger windshield, it’s probably okay. They say, if you
can’t be a shining example, at least you can be a terrible warning. Take it from me. Look after your ears because it’s not fun going deaf. D
Rod Taylor is a freelance columnist with Australian Community Media. His book The Edge of Silence: A sometimes grumpy, often quirky, always curious exploration of going deaf in a world of sound is currently with publishers.
The ‘Big Arse’ screen
What’s inside
MECUM AUCTION
Las Vegas 2020
Classics fetching big coin!
WORDS STUART PHOTOS MECUM AUCTIONS
MECUM AUCTIONS
in the US has long been associated with high quality vehicles crossing its auction fl oor – whether that be on two or four wheels. The recent Las Vegas motorcycle auction was set for a full week of bidding and there have been some amazingly big dollars splashed out for top quality bikes. If you’ve a classic/vintage motorcycle, these high prices will only push the dollar value of your pride and joy upwards; they
will even move the rusty bike that’s covered in dust in the barn skyward. Here’s a bit of a look at just some of the big money bikes that were auctioned for.
A Green Frame Ducati 750SS sold for US$247,500; a Honda NR750 (RC40) sold for $181,500; a Honda VFR750 (RC30) sold for $121,000; and both versions of the MV Agusta 750 S set record prices at $137,500 for the original and $126,500 for the ‘America’.
The highest priced motorcycle of the week was a 1922 Brough Superior Mark 1 90 Bore, one of three surviving such Brough Superior Mk I bikes in the world that use the OHV JAP motor. It sold for US$308,000. This bike was unknown for many years, being purchased as a basket case from a deceased estate here in Australia. The bike’s previous history cannot be traced beyond two decades, and it has been in bits for all of that time.
The restoration of this bike
was undertaken by Classic Style Motorcycles in Melbourne, winning ‘Best of Show” at Motorclassica in 2019, and at its second public outing, it was the top seller at the most important motorcycle auction event in the world. Go the Aussies!
The biggest bid of the week was US$380,000 for a 1940 Crocker Big Tank V-Twin but it wasn’t enough and the bike was passed in. Last year, Crockers sold in four different places across the US for $825,000, $715,000, $704,000, $550,000 and $423,500 – wow!
What I would class as the biggest amount for a bike that needs a full restoration would have to be the
US$150,000 paid for a 1930 Excelsior Super X – check out the pic.
How about we move to something a little ‘more affordable’? A 1900 De Dion Bouton Tricycle sold for US$79,200, or take $US55,200 for a 1980 Kawasaki 750 Mystery Ship –one of only ten made and one of the two that were turbocharged. Wonder what Craig Vetter, the designer, thought about that.
Something that attracted my attention was a 1975 Kawasaki Z900 that sold for US$29,700; add in the ten percent buyers premium and converting to Aussie dollars, that’s around AUD$48,500!
If these prices are all too much let’s
move right down to the lower end of the scale and have a look at what you could get. US$11,000 got you a 1952 Honda Cub F, a rare bike in the scheme of things.
Bikes that might be a little more ‘common’ to you and me, yet still fetching big money, included a brandnew unstarted Honda NS400R sold for US$24,200. A purple Kawasaki H2 750 identical to the one which graced the cover of AMM issue #34 sold for US$27,500.
It will be interesting to compare next year’s Las Vegas auction with this one and see where prices are heading. Maybe I should send my Z900 A4 over to Mecum to sell? LOL! D
WHATSAYYOU
WE
LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity.
LETTER OF THE MONTH
PETER AND HIS WIFE, Diane are long time readers of AMM and Peter has come up with a great idea. How about we all get on board and see what kind of playlist we can make up? Send your song/s in to us –contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com. au. Peter, you’ve won the awesome Nelson-Rigg backpack and t-shirt, send me your t-shirt size, mate. SW
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
Bear,
I read your article 'Have You Done the Paperwork' and wondered if you had considered changing your name officially, although this can be a daunting prospect when you have owned one name for many decades, unless you are on the run.
[A book recommendation:] 'Lone Rider' by Elspeth Beard ISBN 978-1-937747-98-5. I haven't read it yet but it is in my library. Unfortunately, another Australian
BEST BIKE SONG
Stuart/Bear,
Had a great ride today, Margaret River to Augusta, back to Nannup Pub and home, put on some tunes and had a few cold ones. I got to thinking as you do after a ride and a few beers. We all argue about the best rides, the best roads, the best pubs and the best bikes. What about the best bike song? My vote goes to Roll Me Away by Bob Seger and the Silver Bullet Band, I
think this song describes the feeling of riding and the freedom that it brings beautifully. How about you blokes ask for some feedback from your readers about their favourite bike songs?
It probably is pointless as I know nothing will beat Roll Me Away!
Thanks Peter and Diane Simmonds
Hi Peter, Great idea. Let’s see how we go. Cheers, Stuart.
Motorcyclist will arrive before I can start working my way through the 4 books waiting for me. It sounds like Bryan King would love 'The Rugged Road' by Theresa Wallach ISBN 9780956497529 (I think).
Cheers, Jeff Cole Alice Springs
I’ve thought about doing as you suggest, Jeff, and thank you: but there are so many documents (not only the passport and the drivers’ licence, but the mortgage, the
superannuation fund etc) to change – and some of them are quite costly – that I think I’ll live with what I’m doing now. And moan about it, of course! – Cheers, The Bear
I DON’T UNDERSTAND
Hi Stuart and Bear, I love AMM and find it the best magazine in the country by a long way but something I really don’t understand is the constant negativity Boris seems to emit. Does he think he is the be all and end all of motorcycling? It certainly seems he holds himself this highly. As much as he says he’s some kind of fast rider, I haven’t heard of any trophies heading his way racing a motorcycle, or am I wrong? Maybe last place or crasher gets a trophy too? Boris’ latest blab about The Future, he seems to forget or not notice that you guys have a great mag and write great stuff. Again, I think he thinks he is the only one that should write about motorcycles. I don’t think writing about fairies, mythical gods and so on cuts the
mustard for me. Wake up, Boris. Regards, James Janson Brisbane, QLD
pace, rather than simply play followthe-leader all the time. I don’t want people feeling like they’ve been led around by a ring through their nose. We were a procession of nine or 10 bikes as we rode past an old man on the side of the road; bent over and walking with a cane, grey bearded and wizened, a man of considerable years.
RESTORING
Hi Stuart, Thanks for the article on restoring, you’ve got me excited to dive into restoring my RD400. It’s in not to bad a condition and rides really nice. I guess my decision is whether to go the whole
Cylinder
Welding
Fuel
Race
Tyre
Although our background is Ducati we will happily service any
hog or just give it a sympathetic resto as you mention. I’ll do a lot of research as you suggested and see if all the parts can be sourced before I jump in. I’ll give you a holla if I need any advice. Cheers, Jack Harris Geelong, VIC
He looked up and gently waved to each biker as they rode past, except for the last. As I approached, he straightened up a little. He raised his eyebrows, gave a little knowing smile, nodded his head wisely and instead of waving, he put his hand over his heart and patted it softly. I rode the next couple of kilometers with a tear in my eye. D
Hi Jack, Good stuff, mate. Do it all the way and I might want to buy it off you! LOL! Cheers, Stuart.
Go to www.bikeme.tv/index.php/shop/ Or email Borrie directly on Boris@bikeme.tv
Sometime “cold tea” is better than tea…
WHAT SAY YOU
GET GOING
Hi Stu,
I just wanted to mention the bushfi re affected zones. I headed south out of Sydney to Batemans Bay and spent some money in the area. All the shop keepers were so appreciative so I thought I’d send you an email to tell everyone they should be doing the same. Get out there and spend a little or a lot, it all helps. Plus, I reckon it was a pretty good ride down the coast, if a little hot at the time.
Thanks, Phillip Summer Hill, NSW
WHY THREE?
Stuart,
You had a test on the Niken GT in the last issue (#84) and talked about how it makes a pretty good tourer. I am dead against a three-wheeled bike. You can stick your third wheel where it hurts. For me, this doesn’t make a touring motorcycle at all and I have no idea how you would compare a three-wheel bike to a touring motorcycle.
Best, Brad Seven Hills, NSW
Hi Brad,
Thanks for your email. Horses for courses, mate. The Niken GT is a touring motorcycle regardless of the third wheel.
Maybe you should take one for a test ride and fi nd out for yourself?
Cheers, Stuart.
INSERT SAD FACE
Hi Stuart,
I read your editorial in number 84 and feel for you, mate. I gathered the FZR was a love of yours and blowing it up would have been a big kick in the pants. I assume the wallet will be melting to rebuild it, but push on, mate, you’ll get it back bigger and better real soon, as much as it hurts.
Regards, Stevo.
Hi Stevo,
Thanks for your words of encouragement. Yep, it was a sad day for me when it rattled, but I’ve raced for many years and as they say, “That’s racing”. I’ve had engines go bang before and I’m sure (but hope not) that it could happen again. If you go racing and don’t think it will happen to you, or that you won’t crash and need to fi x it, you are dreaming. As I type this reply to you I’ve just taken the new barrel, crank, rods and pistons to get bored and balanced.
Cheers, Stuart.
YEP, I WILL
Gents,
I read the extensive piece you had in
the last issue (#84) about the tour with tour company, Maschine. I really liked it and will be getting in touch to see what else they have to offer. I think I remember seeing something some time ago about them doing adventure riding courses too? I reckon I’ll be checking one of those out as well.
Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike,
Yes, Nick and Trudi at Maschine run a great operation. I have ridden with them
before and love how they organise a ride. Yes, Nick runs some riding courses and although I haven’t been to one, I think Nick would be a great instructor. Let me know how you go.
Cheers, Stuart.
GIMME SOME OF THAT!
Stu!
How bloody awesome is that new Ducati V4 naked! When are you riding one and when will they be available to purchase? I just want one!
Oh, that was a saying for a car, wasn’t it?
Cheers, Chris
St Kilda, VIC
St Kilda, VIC
Hi Chris,
Yeah, I’m pretty pumped to ride one, mate. Actually, I just got invited to the world launch over in Spain, so we’ll be one of the first in the world and probably the first in this country to ride one. You can go to your local Ducati dealer and place an order, but I have no clear indication of exactly when they will land here. I assume they should be here by May, hopefully earlier. Pricing is $29,500 for the standard and $33,900 for the S model. D
K 1600 B
K 1600 GTL
K 1600 GTL Elegance
S 1000 XR
F 750 GS
F 750 GS Tour
F 750 GS Low Susp
F 750 GS Tour LS
F
F 850 GS Tour Low Susp
F 850 GSA
R 1250 GS
R 1250 GS Rallye
R 1250 GS Rallye X
R 1250 GS Exclusive
R 1250 GS Spezial
R 1250 GSA
R 1250 GSA Rallye
R 1250 GSA Rallye X
R 1250 GSA Exclusive
R 1250 GSA Spezial
ScooteR
C 650 Sport
C 650 GT
CAN-AM (BRP) www.brp.com
$13,590
$17,305
$13,840
$17,005
$21,805
$18,240
$18,640
$21,505
$TBA
$23,490
$24,940
$29,890
$28,140
$31,390
$25,490
$26,390
$31,590
$30,790
$30,540
$14,150
$14,990
Spyder F3 $TBA
Spyder F3-S $TBA
Spyder F3-T $TBA
Spyder F3 Limited $TBA
Spyder RT $TBA
Spyder RT Limited
CF MOTO
www.cf-moto.com.au
$TBA
DUCATI
www.ducati.com.au
*All Ducati prices are ride away Road
Scrambler Sixty2
Scrambler Icon
Scrambler Full Throttle
$13,490
Scrambler Café Racer $18,990
Scrambler Desert Sled $19,290
Scrambler
HONDA
Road
sCooTeR Address
Burgman
Burgman 400
SWM
www.swmmotorcycles.com.au
Road
Gran Turismo
$2490
$7490
Silver Vase 440 $7490
Gran Milano 440 $7990
SM 500 R $8990
SM 650 R $9490 adv TouRing
Superdual
650
650
650
650
$9990
TRIUMPH
www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au
*Some Triumph prices are ride away
Road
Street Triple S 660 $12,800
Street Triple S
Street Triple R $15,850
Street Triple RS $17,550
Bonneville Street Twin $13,700
Bonne Street Cup $15,600
Street Scrambler $15,900
Bonne T100
Bonne T100 Black
Bonne Bobber Black $19,500
Bonneville T120 $17,200
Bonneville T120 Black
Thruxton R
Speed Twin
Speed Triple RS
CRuiseR
Thunderbird Storm $22,800
Thunderbird Commander
Rocket 3 R
Rocket 3 GT
adv TouRing
Scrambler 1200 XE
Scrambler 1200 XC
Tiger 800 XRx/L
Tiger 800 XRt
BEARFACED
ON THE BOOZE
“It provokes the desire, but it takes away the performance.”
- William Shakespeare, Macbeth
IKNOW THAT Shakespeare didn’t mean drinking and riding when he wrote those words, but I suspect we all know someone who reckons they can ride better when they’ve had a few. My own experience tends to contradict that. But let me start from the beginning.
The battle against smoking has hardly been won, but it’s going pretty well. You’re a social outcast these days if you light up a durrie. Good thing, too, I guess. I smoked for many years and I’m pleased that I was eventually able to give it up. But I have long suspected that the anti-smoking forces in society are more than just that.
With smoking on the ropes and smokers sweltering in the heat at least so-and-so many metres from any human habitation, the anti-smoking forces have been looking for their next target. At the moment that seems to be drinking.
We’re already seeing warning messages on the labels of booze bottles, and in New South Wales (I don’t know about the other States) there is a totally outrageous law that prevents your friendly barmaid or barman from serving you a shot – that is, an unadulterated glass of spirits. I just happen to like my Irish whiskey straight, but I cannot buy it that way across the bar. People are beginning to make remarks like “drinking needs to
become as socially unacceptable as smoking” and condemning the various – and variable – health effects of the grog. These comments are being reported uncritically by the mass media.
I’m not here to defend drinking; that’s another column in another magazine. But I am here to warn about the efforts I see around me to ban the next thing that shows up on the wowsers’ periscope. Especially since they have already made major inroads, not only in Australia but also in the rest of the world.
Recently I wrote a piece for an American website, ADVrider.com, on the subject not just of drinking, but also of drinking and riding.
“Drinking is a social activity I enjoy very much,” I wrote, “and I’m not about to stop doing it and, if I feel like it, riding afterwards. The trick is to work out how much to drink. Some people can handle more before they become incapable of riding properly; others can handle less alcohol. You need to know your own limit and it isn’t necessarily the legal one – Mrs Bear for instance won’t drive if she’s had more than one drink. But there is always the legal blood alcohol limit to set an upper, er, limit to drinking.”
I went on to point out that American laws militate against intelligent drinking: “some alcoholic drinks are not required to list their strength on the bottle or can (in the US) – and the strength of otherwise identical beers, for example, can vary from state to state and even county to county. The federal rule for the labelling of beer says, ‘A statement of
alcohol content is optional unless it is required by state law or it is prohibited by state law.’ Great, thanks. So how do you know if you’re legal to get on your bike?”
We have a divergence here. On the one hand, do you feel like you’re okay to ride. On the other, are you legally permitted to ride. As I think I have suggested above, you therefore need to keep two limits in mind, not just one: both the perceived and the legal limit are relevant, and you should not ride if you exceed either one. That is even stricter than the legal limit alone.
Unfortunately, many of the responses didn’t see it like that. “Don’t drink and ride” was the mantra, and like all mantras it smacked not of something the speaker had arrived at after a logical process, but of something learned, possibly by rote. Repeat “don’t drink and ride’ often enough, and it becomes true in itself without needing serious cogitation.
But it’s not true in itself. “Don’t ride if you are over your personal or the legal limit” is true; at least it will stop you from getting booked. But it’s too complicated to make into a mantra, and it requires thought. We can’t have that.
Two standard drinks in the first hour will raise your blood alcohol content to .05%, and 1 standard per hour thereafter will maintain that level. But that’s very general and “will vary in each person even when drinking the same amount as this depends on factors such as weight, sex, amount of food consumed and so forth,” say my friends at Moët Hennessy in their very handy little booklet on the subject. Keep in mind that this calculation is only about the legal limit (and by the way, you need to stay under that limit). Your personal limit might be lower, so you’ll need to be aware of that. It’s more complicated than “don’t drink and ride”, but it doesn’t follow the wowsers’ play sheet. The responsibility is yours; make sure you keep it yours. D
BORIS WORDS BORIS MIHAILOVIC
BEATING THE BEASTS
HERE’S A LITTLE prediction for you. In the wake of the bushfires, you’ll be seeing a few more dead animals on the roads. If you’re lucky – and yes, luck plays a big part in this equation – you’ll see the live ones and maybe not hit them. If luck is not with you on that day, then you will hit them, and that is a very bad thing. Most of the time.
I have lost three friends this way. Two were killed after hitting kangaroos. One was killed hitting a deer. A whole bunch of other friends have sustained terrible injuries as a result of hitting an animal.
I myself nailed a kangaroo north of Pinda in South Oz at 180km/h and miraculously escaped with some bruising and a bike that somehow remained upright after the impact. Pure, unadulterated luck in that case. I should be dead, or maimed, or both, but it was not my day on that day.
So, after the bushfires, when the animals are far more active looking for food in a burned and ruined landscape, it’s a fair bet more people will hit them. Can this be avoided? Are there things you can do to minimise the risks?
I’ve ridden several million kilometres over the years, and I guess the answer to both of those questions is “Not really and not always”.
But there are some things you need to consider which may assist you.
Firstly, there are animals you can hit with some degree of assurance you will not crash.
Rabbits, mainly. Echidnas, possibly. Snakes and lizards. Though the latter can be problematical. Belt across a big Perenti lizard and see what happens. Run your tyres over a large King Brown and hope it doesn’t fasten its dying fangs into your thigh as it rears up with its back broken. Most of the time, you’ll be fine; it will just be a small bump and off you go. But now and again…
So, let’s go up a size. Cats and dogs can get wedged in your wheels and cause a lock-up, but they are largely an urban problem and feral cats aren’t stupid enough to run in front of cars on country roads. Big dogs are also an urban problem and they will bring you down and the owner will probably put the boot in as you’re lying there. Foxes are also touch and go. Some you can run over with impunity and a slight shimmy of the front-end. Others will send you sailing into a tree. Don’t worry so much about goats. They always run away from the road.
And so we come to the big beasts. Kangaroos and wallabies. Hefty, muscled bastards with panic-stricken brains who can turn on a sixpence, are camouflaged to perfection, and will do all sorts of Crazy Ivan stuff. They will even run into you. And anything that weighs between 50 and 100kg running into you will end poorly for both of you.
These bouncy kamikazes prefer early morning and late afternoon for their suicide runs, and they are always out at night.
Wombats are also trundling disasters. Imagine hitting a 30cm-high rock at 120km/h. My mate Daz did. It was already dead and right on the racing line on the Oxley Highway. Daz hit it and cartwheeled himself off the road and into a gully where he lay for a few hours enjoying his broken bones and
pulped organs. Their only saving grace is they move relatively slowly, which means if you’re on your game, you may be able to avoid one as it comes steaming out of the scrub.
And then we have the big guns –deer, brumbies, camels, micky bulls, and feral steers.
You’re dead. Or you’ll be so badly injured you’ll wish you were.
So what can you do to minimise the risk, which I can assure you will increase as the bush regenerates?
Not all that much, but every little bit helps in this case.
Firstly, read the road ahead. If there’s a lot of fresh roadkill around, it’s a fair bet there are more creatures waiting their turn to die. Kangaroos travel in mobs – and where there’s one, there will be more.
Secondly, position yourself as close to the middle of the road as you can. This gives you a bit of room to manoeuvre if something does jump out. It ain’t much, but it’s all you have. Oh, and don’t manoeuvre your way into an oncoming truck when you’re dodging marsupials.
Thirdly, understand what time of day it is. Like I said, early morning, late arvo, and night-time are Peak Hour for the beasts.
Fourthly, if something does suddenly appear, grabbing big handfuls of brakes can be a very bad thing. Under massive braking, you are no longer able to steer your bike. Acceleration can sometimes be your friend in this case. Of course, sometimes gassing it on will only make things worse. But at least you’re in control under power.
Often, you only have nano-seconds to make a call. And the faster you’re going when something sails onto the road, the fewer nano-seconds you have to make a decision about what needs to happen.
That’s about it.
Stay as alert as you can and be paranoid. They are out to get you. D
Your adventure. Our policy.
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