Australian Motorcyclist Issue #81

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JUST HOW COOL ARE YOU? COOLER WITH OUR SUMMER GEAR GUIDE

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TA EAR-OU T : E ID S F R E E IN

USTRAL

IA

RCYCLE N M OTO

ALL YOU NEED FOR ADVENTURE

BENELLI 502C JUST LIKE A DIAVEL BUT DIFFERENT

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340798 000228

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AUS $9.95 (Inc GST) NZ $10.95 (Inc GST)

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MAP

ER 2019

TRAVEL CANADA

ROYAL ENFIELD

HIMALAYAN

T R AV E L

NOVEMB

RIDING BRITISH COLUMBIA

BMW R 1250 RT TRAVEL IN STYLE

MEAN MOTHER

HARLEY-DAVIDSON LOW RIDER S

RICKSHAW RUN / POTM: ECHUCA / MAP: TASSIE / SUMMER GEAR GUIDE / BOOKS: MORE THAN YOU CAN HANDLE / WOW INTERVIEW / U&A: HEY THERE, SEXY BORIS: AN OBSERVATION / THE BEAR: LAWFULLY MAD / Z900 RESTO: OH YEAH! 3/10/19 9:17 pm

pired s n i e g e herita tor 650 and h t g n i c Introdu nfield Intercepith an all Royal E ntal GT 650, wine.

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CONTENTS 68

“Summer means happy times and good sunshine.

It means going to the beach, going for a ride, having fun ” VARIOUS

ROYAL TOURING

SPECIAL FEATURE

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SUMMER GEAR Get cool. Be cool

TESTING

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ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN You don’t need more than this HARLEY-DAVIDSON LOW RIDER S Your mother isn’t as mean BMW R 1250 RT Classy touring BENELLI 502C I’ve seen this bike somewhere before?

TRAVEL

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CANADA Riding British Columbia with The Bear PUB OF THE MONTH Not just a pub, but a whole town!

RICKSHAW RUN Sounds like madness

TEAR-OUT MAP

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WEST TASSIE Corners galore!

TECHNICAL

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MAD FUN

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NOT JUST A PUB, BUT A WHOLE TOWN

WORLD ON WHEELS They’re how old?

LONG TERMERS Love your pug MOTORCYCLING BOOKS Read till you can’t read no more

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DOES IT GET ANY BETTER THAN THIS?

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GOOD COMPANY Buying a bike in the US? USED & ABUSED G’day sexy KAWASAKI Z900 RESTO Oh yeah!

MORE GREATNESS

06 08 106 109 112 114

YOU LOOK FAMILIAR...

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EDITORIAL Regret and lust NEWS Better than the news on the tele WHAT SAY YOU? Tell us what you’re really thinking NEW BIKE PRICES Why aren’t you buying?

BEAR FACED Lawful madness BORIS An observation

Australian Motorcyclist

Australian Motorcyclist Magazine

Australian Motorcyclist Magazine

@AusMotrCyclist

Please enjoy Australian MOTORCYCLIST Magazine responsibly and add this issue to your collection. MOST BACK ISSUES ARE STILL AVAILABLE; just visit the website www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au or drop us a line to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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EDITORSPEAKS For the love of bikes Editor Stuart Woodbury Contributing Editor J Peter Thoeming Sales Manager Ralph Leavsey-Moase ralph@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Photo Editor Nick Wood Designer Amy Hale Photographers Nick Wood Photography, Half-Light Photography Contributors Robert Crick, Jacqui Kennedy, Robert Lovas, Boris Mihailovic, Chris Pickett, The Possum, Colin Whelan, Bob Wozga Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Subscription enquiries www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Printer PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Distributor Gordon and Gotch Australian Motorcyclist Magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066 Phone 0412 220 680.

This publication is copyright. Other than for the purposes of research, study, criticism, review, parody or satire and subject to the conditions prescribed under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted without the prior written permission of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily represent those of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. No responsibility is accepted by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd or the editor for the accuracy of any statement, opinion or advice contained in the text or advertisements. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions tailored to their own interest. *Recommended retail price Copyright © Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd ACN 161 432 506 ISSN 2201-5442

We encourage you to keep or recycle this magazine.

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S THERE A motorcycle you’ve regretted getting rid of? You know, that one special bike that pulls at your heart strings when you see or hear one nowadays? I think the one that really burns for me is when I sold my 1984 Suzuki Katana 1100.

I’d lusted after an 1100 Katana for many years, finally got one, restored it and pretty much sold it straight away. I guess the offer of loads of cash in my pocket took over from sitting back and really thinking about it. I remember a bloke in the Katana Australia club telling me I’d regret selling it, and to resist the urge to cash in until a few months had passed. He was right. All that remains is my memory of the smiles that bike gave me whenever I rode it. I didn’t need to ride it fast – just cruise, and the satisfaction that brought was indescribable.

Once I’ve restored my 1976 Kawasaki Z900 A4 and sold that I think I’m going to have to buy the next bike on my list of machines I actually want to own – a two-stroke.

I might have mentioned this thought before but the delight I got from the 1100 Katana will, I reckon, also come along with either a Kawasaki H1 500 or H2 750, or a Yamaha RD/RZ350, RD400 or RD/RZ500. The price range is quite varied with these bikes with top dollar being 20k plus, so it might rule the larger capacity bikes out of my budget – let’s see.

I remember riding a purple H2 750 a couple of years ago – the bike that was on the cover of issue #34.

I got to ride this bike a number of times and polluting the world with every revolution was so enjoyable I want this feeling again. If you’ve ever

ridden an H2 750 you’ll also remember the insane vibrations which make it hard to hang on at times and the lack of braking performance. This is everything I love about old bikes – they don’t do what modern bikes do. Sure, modern bikes are amazing to ride and for most people they are the ducks guts. They are reliable, easy to ride and outperform old bikes in every way, shape and form.

I think, on the other hand, that for me it comes down to the fact that I get to ride so many new bikes I want that old bike that scares the crap out of you and gets the heart beating.

Have you ever thought of restoring an old bike? Is it a daunting prospect or did you dive in and get it done? It’s really not as hard as what you might think, so long as you do most of it yourself. Sure, if rebuilding an engine isn’t a task you’d like to tackle, add in a little more to the budget to cover it, but the main thing, I think, is that you just need to break the restoration down into sections or tasks. Do you think I should do an article on this? Let me know – stuart@ausmotorcyclist.com.au .

Enjoy Cheers, Stuart.

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FIND OUT MORE

ALL-NEW 2020

ONLINE

Kawasaki’s new KLX230 is purpose-built for serious dirt fun and easy road riding, with aggressive styling and slim ergonomics inspired by Kawasaki’s KX motocrossers. This powerful, light & agile machine is equipped with Kawasaki’s first dual-purpose ABS.

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Always ride responsibly. Always ride within the limits of your skills, your experience and your machine. Wear an approved helmet and protective clothing. The actions depicted here took place under controlled conditions with professional riders.

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NEWS

TAKE OVER

After a 55-years-long partnership with NF Importers, Ducati is now ready to take the next step in the markets in Australia and New Zealand by opening a fully owned subsidiary which will become effective starting from 1 April 2020.

Previously managed by private distributor, NF Importers, Australia & New Zealand have become one of the world’s main Ducati markets outside of Europe.

NF Importers, the current Ducati importer, started the Ducati distribution in Sydney in 1964, expanding the network throughout the years up to 24 dealerships that today cover the entire continent as well as New Zealand, providing Ducati customers with hubs and points of reference for their passion and needs in terms of service, community and products.

After 55 years of partnership, NF Importers and Ducati together decided to make a step forward to take further advantage of the current state of the Australian market.

Warren Fraser – NF Importers Managing Director, said, “I believe that we have represented the Ducati brand very successfully in good and bad market conditions since 1964 and have established the Ducati brand as one of the predominant prestige motorcycle marques in Australia and more recently New Zealand”.

The new Ducati subsidiary will be

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under the leadership of Sergi Canovas, who comes from a long experience in the motorcycle industry. Sergi said, “I am extremely happy and honoured to take this responsibility. Ducati has been well represented by NF Importers and I am looking forward to continue the fruitful relationship with them on the retail side. Establishing the subsidiary in Australia and New Zealand will assert the brand’s DNA and values of Ducati, translating them into an enhanced experience for all our Ducatisti across Australia and New Zealand”.

Mr. Canovas, for the last three years, had also headed up the team of Ducati India, as Managing Director, successfully positioning Ducati as the most premium and desired motorcycle brand in the market.

What does all this mean to you and me, the bike buyer? We don’t see much changing at the start but Ducati will no doubt have their own spin on how to increase their sales in both markets. We can’t wait to see what positive changes they come up with.

REPAIR ME

The fine folk at Rocky Creek Designs keep producing the goods. Their latest wonder is the Motopressor puncture repair kit. This kit contains their award winning MotoPressor Puncture Repair Tool, 5 pre-glued vulcanized repair strings, an inflation tool and 3 x 16g CO2 canisters and

a neoprene bag. The bag with its contents, will take up a small amount

of room in your pannier or pocket and the kit is all you will need to get you out of trouble if you get a puncture.

Available from Rocky Creek Designs (www.rockycreekdesigns.com.au) and all good motorcycle shops through ProAccessories and priced at $82.95.

WATCH ME

Held in the picturesque Victorian township of Bright, in the heart of Australia’s Alpine region, the Adventure Travel Film Festival is

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not just a celebration of the world’s greatest adventure travel films from the 1920s to the present day, it is also a weekend of inspiring speakers and authors who will motivate and enthuse you. Coinciding with Valentine’s Day (14 – 16 February 2020), the light-hearted theme of this festival is relationship.

“An unmissable feast of adventure for anybody dreaming of their next trip. The festival attracts grizzled pros to first time travellers. Any sane person attending can’t help but be inspired,” says Festival Director Rupert Shaw.

The festival takes place at various venues in Bright with the Starlight Cinema in the parkland behind the Brewery, in the heart of town, one of the best places to enjoy the films as night falls.

There are films about everything from epic global motorcycle, rickshaw, taxi, aviation and train journeys to a two year old and her Dad embarking on a 500km winter ski expedition in the Norwegian mountains.

Come along for an opportunity to meet authors Tim Cope & Paul Pritchard. Tim is the author of Tim & Tigon, an amazing journey across 10,000 kilometres from Mongolia to Hungary on a horse with a Mongolian dog by his side. Paul has taken out last year’s Spirit of Adventure award for his determination to overcome all physical barriers. After overcoming a serious rock-climbing accident, Paul led a team of 5 cyclists with various disabilities from Australia’s lowest point at Lake Eyre, 2000kms over sandy desert tracks to eventually reach Australia’s highest peak Mt Kosciuszko.

Tickets go on sale in October and are great value at $125 for an adult weekend pass, $65 for an adult day pass or child weekend pass and $255 for a family (2 adults, 2 children U15) weekend pass. There are early bird discounts for purchases before November 30th, special discounts for seniors and film goers who have attended previous festivals. The Adventure Travel Film Festival will also be held in Fremantle,

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WA - February 28 to March 2, 2020.

Full details can be found on the festival website - www. adventure travelfilm festival.com

SUPER DUCATI

Super SOCO Australia is pleased to advise that the CUx Special Edition Ducati is now available to order in very limited numbers and ready for immediate delivery.

Experience the best in BOSCH electric motion, no oil change or refill, zero exhaust gases, no noise pollution and backed by a 2 Year unlimited kms warranty.

Ducati Racing will use the Super SOCO full electric range of motorcycles and scooters as their preferred “paddock transport” throughout the 2019 MotoGP series globally.

GOING LARGE

Indian Motorcycle, announced its 2020 heavyweight lineup, packed with a host of new features and benefits. With the Thunder Stroke 116 engine now available in select models, a completely redesigned Ride Command system, and the introduction of the aggressively-

styled Roadmaster Dark Horse and redesigned Springfield Dark Horse, the Indian Motorcycle 2020 heavyweight lineup is bigger, better and badder than ever.

“The majority of these new features and upgrades are a result of our consistent communication with riders, listening to their feedback and incorporating it wherever possible in our ongoing product development efforts,” said Reid Wilson – Vice President for Indian Motorcycle. “Today’s rider wants more power and expects cuttingedge technology, all packaged in a modern look that’s tough and aggressive. That’s exactly what we’re delivering in 2020.” Get to your local dealer to get all the info and order yours so you don’t miss out. D

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Developed with

Technical partner

ducati.com

New Diavel 1260

So good to be bad.

The world is at your feet and all eyes are on you… and your new Diavel 1260. The performance of a maxi-naked combined with the comfort of a muscle cruiser. Its handling and agility will surprise you. The 159 hp 1262 Testastretta DVT engine, powerful and torquey at any speed, remaining fluid and manageable for maximum riding pleasure. Its beefy and aggressive design makes a significant impact and is further enhanced by extremely well-executed finishing touches. You can be one of those who admires. Or you can be one who is admired. The new Diavel 1260: so good to be bad.

Displacement 1,262 cc (77.0 cu in) | Power 159 hp (117 kW) @ 9,500 rpm | Torque 95 lb-ft (13.1 kgm, 129 Nm) @ 7,500 rpm

TRP DC0238

Discover all the Ducati services on www.ducatiforyou.com

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launch

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ROYAL ENFIELD

Himalayan

Take me to the river and mountains

WORDS ralph PHOTOS Conrad Taylor

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LAUnCH

S

ometimes you are riding along, and you just aren’t there.

Not the ‘there’ in the domestic sense. You find yourself in another place, another country, another time.

I do that a lot on boring freeway

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rides, getting away from the world I live in. Motorcycling, especially on adventure-style bikes, allows you to find that nirvana.

I was plonking along nicely at the rear of our large press group up

around the Tweed Caldera (look it up, it’s a geological wonder) in northern NSW. I was on the Royal Enfield Himalayan launch for the upgraded 411cc single, now fitted with a fuel injection system and ABS (which

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launch

cannot be switched off) and I should have been living in the moment.

But I found myself drifting off to Pokhara and 1987, when Nepal was still old-world and Kathmandu was the destination for every hippie and trekker. The place and time were no accident. I truly wanted to be there on this motorcycle. A motorcycle designed for fording gravel-bed rivers

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It’s not where you’re going ...

It’s how you get there.

The modular luggage system for all motorcycles.

Photo by Barnabas Imre

VENTURA is available from your favourite motorcycle store. For more information about VENTURA products visit www.venturarack.com.au email: sales@kenma.com.au PH : 1800 251 145

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launch

strewn with boulders and climbing 5,000 plus metre passes with ease.

Whoops, snapping myself away from the Himalaya I find that Byron Bay is still pretty much the place I remember fondly from the late ‘80s when I drove my campervan around Oz with my little Suzuki GP125 strapped to the rear. The Byron Bay environs, away from the town itself and the Rich Listers, is thankfully all white sandy beaches and lush rolling hills with livestock and macadamia plantations butted up against the granite outcrops of the Great Divide.

Away from the easternmost point of our land, you can find river crossings and muddy trails although the country looks a bit forlorn without much rainfall. Mainly it was dusty. The 411cc Himalayan was in its element. We were more at a sightseeing pace than at rally speed, and the little 18.5kw single is hardly stressed. It wouldn’t feel the same trying to maintain 140km/h into a raging headwind up the Stuart Highway to Darwin; but that’s another time and place. You just keep shifting up and down the slick five-speed gearbox and fanning the super-light clutch to keep up the pace.

This region is all about twisty back roads which link one rural settlement to the next and allow the kids to get to school and produce to the markets.

The roads are surprisingly quiet, which means the Himalayan is fun with its surefooted handling and firm, long travel suspension. The factory has been able to find just the right compromise between not too soft and not too firm and despite the bumpy road and uneven forest trails I got a well-controlled comfortable ride. Point the Royal Enfield up a decent rocky climb and the combination of low weight and good torque means that up she goes even on the semi road/ trail style standard Pirelli MT 60’s. The fueling from the new electronic system adds precise feel.

I reckon if they could unlock another 5-10 Kw of power and take a tooth off the countershaft sprocket then the whole plot would be near unstoppable.

I like the low seat which meant that I could use both of my short legs to

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Freedom shouldn’t be compromised And having the right insurance with the right insurer is the first step in making sure you’re always free to ride.

New England Insurance Brokers Pty Ltd (NEIB) has been providing custom motorcycle insurance solutions to Australian riders for 30 years.

The majority of the NEIB team are owners and riders themselves.

They understand what it means to know your motorcycle is protected by the right insurance, so you can ride with complete peace of mind.

With NEIB, nothing gets between you and the road: NEIB are the only people you need to talk to when arranging your insurance.

With special licensing arrangements, the NEIB team can handle all aspects of your motorcycle insurance with courtesy and efficiency.

They also know that with insurance, security is the key: NEIB has been working with CGU Insurance for over twenty years.

Chosen for their long history operating in Australia and excellent credit rating, CGU Insurance is part of Australia’s largest general insurance group, IAG.

With two or three wheels, NEIB has you covered: NEIB are motorcycle insurance specialists in Australia and have a policy that is perfect for whatever you’re riding including: • Cover for high value and custom-built motorcycles; • Automatic Flexible Riding Gear cover provided to different levels of protection*; • Motorcycles/Trikes cover for Tour Operators; • Public Liability insurance for Tour Operators underwritten by CGU; • Flexible payment options.

To find out how to protect your freedom, call NEIB today on 1300 812 877 or visit www.neib.com.au

Protecting Your Freedom for 30 years Live Free, Ride Free *

Automatic Flexible Riding Gear cover provided to different levels of protection depending on the type of PDS (policy) chosen. Additional Riding Gear cover can be purchased with either PDS (Policy) over the standard limits provided.

This Motorcycle Product is issued by NEIB on behalf of Insurance Australia Limited ABN 11 000 016 722 AFSL 227681 trading as CGU Insurance.

You should read the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) before deciding to purchase this product. You can obtain a copy of the PDS from our website (https://neib.com.au) or by phoning our office.

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LAUNCH

SPECS ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN

help when the going got tougher.

For an adventure tourer of small capacity, the 410 can easily be loaded up with kit, not just panniers but also bags on the guards, around the front of the tank and the rear seat and rack. The highway pace is limited to 100km/h at slightly under 5000rpm, so overtaking either needs to be very well planned or avoided. It’s like asking Ewan and Charlie to go unassisted on their travels, which means it is way beyond any expectation you should have. Plan the more sedate and scenic route and your investment of $6,450 (plus on roads) will allow you to kick back to savor the joy of riding. Even if you aren’t hitting the back roads, the Himalayan will still make an ideal commuter or second bike. Buy two and drag a friend or family member along to share.

You would think for a number around $7000 you could live with some faults, but I am a bit fussy. I would want the frame to be gloss black rather than the dull colour. Shiny is easy to clean and looks miles better.

Trim an inch off the sidestand, too, please Royal Enfield and while you are at it, I would like a lot more braking

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power from the well calibrated ABS setup; especially from the single front disc. Mind you, whatever I might think there will be 800,000 Royal Enfield buyers stumping up every year for their simple, robust wares who will scream “it’s fit for purpose” and it’s hard to argue that “they offer supreme value-formoney”. Those buyers are right.

It looks to me as if this updated and LAMS approved Himalayan model almost inhabits its own market slot.

Sure, the Suzuki DR650 and even the DRZ400 push the simple lowcost approach to adventuring. Even the departing Kawasaki KLR650 can make claims to be the sensible way of travelling but none offer the quaint and comfortable, ready out of the crate path to finding your own Kundalini. By day two I was living in the northern NSW moment rather than escaping to Nepal, and soaking up the ride full of fun and sunshine. A day later I was in a soaking grey city and by chance talking to a taxi driver about his homeland and the Hindu Kush. It is now on my ‘must do’ list and it has to be on a Royal Enfield. D

PRICE: $6490 plus on roads WARRANTY: Two years or 20,000 kilometres SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 5000km or 12 months ENGINE: Air cooled single cylinder, single cam, 2 valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 78 x 86mm DISPLACEMENT: 411cc COMPRESSION: 9.5:1 POWER: 18.5 Kw@ 6500rpm TORQUE: 32Nm @ 4250rpm TRANSMISSION: 5-speed, wet multiplate clutch, chain drive SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm telescopic fork, non-adjustable, travel 200mm.

Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, travel 180mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 800mm, weight 191kg (dry), fuel capacity 15 litres, wheelbase 1465mm TYRES: Front: 90/90/21 Rear: 120/90/17 FRAME: Half duplex double cradle BRAKES: Front, 300 mm disc, 2-piston floating caliper Rear, 240 mm disc, single piston floating caliper FUEL CONSUMPTION: 3.5 litres per 100km (estimated), unleaded THEORETICAL RANGE: 428km COLOURS: Snow, Sleet and Granite VERDICT: NO MOUNTAIN HIGH ENOUGH OR RIVER TOO DEEP

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Inspired by humans.

SUPER RIDER D-DRY $699.95RRP The Dainese Super Rider D-Dry Jacket is a new step in textile riding performance, built for sport touring through multiple seasons. The textile shell is blended with 3D mesh panelling and leather inserts for unparalleled breathability and durability.

Elasticated inserts offer a dynamic fit when in the riding position and the removable D-Dry liner seals out wet or chilly weather for the ultimate 3 season sport jacket.

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TRAVEL

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British

the best of Riding the mountains in British Columbia.

Canada, that is words/photos the bear

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T R aV E l

“I

Just WaNt to take a look,” I said to the obligatory blonde who was redirecting traffic away from Lake Louise. Have you ever noticed how often lollipop people are young blondes? Apparently they’re less likely to be abused by drivers. Makes sense, I guess, even in Canada where it’s hard to imagine any driver abusing anyone. “I promise I won’t park.”

She shook her blonde mop, rather attractively I must admit, but she wasn’t about to budge.

“Go five kilometres back along the freeway and park, and you can catch a free shuttle into town,” she said, obviously having repeated those instructions all day. I tried lying and told here that I had named my younger daughter Louise after the town, but it didn’t work. She did another attractive headshake and pointed south. I scratched Lake Louise from my mental itinerary and headed west instead towards a nearby little town called Field, which of course was booked out. I finally found a motel in Golden, on the other side of Yoho National Park. I do not know if this is named after a local yodeler, but it’s very pretty anyway.

Golden is not, especially, but I was so glad to get a bed that I really didn’t mind. I stayed in an ordinary motel called Mary’s, which had one major advantage: it’s right next door to the Whitetooth Brewing Company, one of several dozen craft breweries I found on my travels.

The first of these was in Nelson, my initial overnight stop after crossing the border from the US at a small Washington State town called Danville.

Even the short ride through Castlegar and Salmo was memorable, not least for the ticket I got just outside Ymir for failing to stop at a stop sign.

The very nice highway patrolman kept

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1.The mountains are ever-present.

2. A Spirit Bear! No, just a big white and very friendly dog.

3. One of the gravel tracks I sampled on the V-Strom.

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TRue North: Alaska motorcycle tour, by Compass Expeditions.

The True North: Alaska

Join Compass Expeditions on an incredible ride through the wilderness of Alaska.

This still remains one of the true "last frontier" destinations and offers a scenic overload for bikers, but with a few creature comforts. Our 17 day ride begins by exploring stunning coastal fishing villages before riding into the vast remote interior and traversing the legendary Dalton Highway to Prudhoe Bay, North Americas highest mountain, massive glaciers, wildlife, wild Alaskan rivers, abandoned mining info@compassexpeditions.com towns, endless tundra all feature in this spectacular adventure.

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t r av e l

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telling me to not worry about paying the fine because I was from Australia.

He was suitably impressed when I told him that I’d rather clean up after myself, but he still booked me. Be warned; the office that collects fines has no internet address listed on the ticket. You need to pay by post, which is an absolute pain when you leave it till you get back home to Oz as I did.

Nelson is a nice town. It has some of the atmosphere that I found in Portland, down over the border in Oregon – a bit of the hippie life lingers here and there are several book shops and wine bars in the tree-lined narrow streets as well as a collection of craft breweries. I stayed in a private room in a hostel, the Adventure Hotel, which also has a terrific bar downstairs offering the – you guessed it – local craft brews. Unfortunately the hippie spirit in the street also includes frequent panhandling. If I’d had any spare change it wouldn’t have lasted a single block, but I hadn’t as yet pulled any Canadian money out of any of the ubiquitous ATMs. Unlike US currency, Canadian money is polymer like our own cash, and is in fact printed right here in Oz. Interesting factoid, eh. No? The morning dawned bright and sunny, as did all of my mornings on this trip, bar one which was a little drizzly.

I was ready for more bad weather with my new Draggin Jeans Oilskins pants and a waterproof Ixon jacket; but as so often, just packing the gear seemed to stop the rain. Fortunately, I could wear the Oilskins and the jacket even when it was not raining.

Just north of Nelson I came to the first of Canada’s 31,752 officially recognized large freshwater lakes.

These, plus the nearly two million additional small lakes, defined as

1.This bloke is ready for anything, but check the dent in the front wheel.

2. My accommodation in Bonner’s Ferry – back to school with the Bear!

3. Love the way they invite nonmotorcyclists to stay as well.

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My cabin at Hummingbird.Tiny but perfectly adequate.

Overtaking log trucks was part of the fun. Drivers are very obliging.

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There are two huge glaciers in this photo.

having an area less than three square kilometres, make up 9% of the country’s area. Most of them were formed by glaciers which gouged out deep beds for themselves. These filled with water when the glaciers retreated. As a result, you frequently find yourself riding alongside lakes with steep, snow-covered mountains on the other side of the road. This is not an unpleasant experience, especially when the roads are as good as Canada’s, or at least British Columbia’s, usually are.

The ferry at Balfour was late, I was told, because the other ferry had clipped one of its moveable

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propeller capsules on a rock. It seemed like a reasonable possibility, especially since the ferry in question sat at the dock looking desolate.

Nobody appeared to be concerned about the schedule, and I amused myself chatting to the other motorcycle travelers in the queue.

Unusually, they were all on midsized adventure bikes and approved heartily of my MotoQuest V-Strom 650. It’s more common to see Harleys and, increasingly, Indians than adventure bikes on these roads.

The free ferry took me to Kootenay Bay and I turned south again along the lake to Creston.

Here I turned left across the Purcell Mountains and then left again to Cranbrook. I took a detour to Fort Steele, which was advertised as a genuine remnant from the pioneering days but which turned out to be a kind of wooden amusement park instead. Maybe I’m being unkind here, but I don’t find these sorts of places interesting.

I debated continuing to Kimberley and places beyond, but I had promised myself I would not be tempted into my usual long-distance rides on this trip. I would stop and smell the… well, whatever there was to smell. In line with this theory I

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I would like to especially recommend: MotoQuest, as always. If you’re interested in a tour or a rental bike on the West Coast, take advantage of their offices in Anchorage, Portland, San Francisco and Los Angeles. Just look them up at www.motoquest.com or ring 907-272-2777 and tell them I sent you.You won’t get a bike for free, as I do, but they will treat you with courtesy and respect. Then again, they treat everybody that way.

Adventure Hotel / hostel, Nelson BC, 250-352-7211, https:// adventurehotel.ca .

Big hotel/hostel in the middle of town, pleasant bar and dining room, off-road motorcycle parking.

River’s Way, Clearwater BC, 778-220-0271, 301 Riverview Crescent, Clearwater, BC V0E 1N2, Canada Beautiful little place in a quiet neighborhood, secure motorcycle parking. Rozz is a terrific host.

Kaslo Hotel & Pub, Kaslo BC, 250-353-7714, 430 Front St, Kaslo, BC V0G 1M0, Canada Lovely old pub with a reasonably good restaurant. No motorcycle parking.

stopped at the Cranbrook tourist information office, where I found cause to regret my advanced age.

Let me give my younger (male or lesbian) readers a tip here. If you find yourself missing female companionship on the road, call into any tourist information office.

In my experience, these places tend to be staffed by attentive, pleasant and attractive young women – and you don’t need to come up with a chat-up line. Just ask about places in town to have some fun, and naturally segue into when they finish work and if they’d be interested in showing you these places themselves…

I’m not only too old but also too married for this kind of thing, but I do wish I’d come up with the idea half a century or so ago.

Cranbrook turned out to be a bit of a disappointment until I discovered the Fire House, a fire station (obviously enough) which had been converted into a restaurant serving a wide range of craft beers as well as interesting food.

The Rockies called in the morning and I rode alongside a chain of snow-capped mountains and a lake to Radium Hot Springs. I did consider springing

Northside School B&B, Bonner’s Ferry, Idaho, 208-267-1826, 6497 Comanche St, Bonners Ferry, ID 83805, USA Lovingly converted schoolhouse with pool, beautiful rooms, good breakfast.

Motorcycle parking in driveway.

Hummingbird Cabins ‘n’ Breakfast, Fauquier BC, Canada, 250-269-7641, early@ uniserve.com Small – well, tiny – cabins in the woods.

Wonderful breakfast. Motorcycle parking secure because it’s so remote.

Got to love Leslie, your host.

Canada.

Seems like a top place to me.

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t r av e l The gap cut to allow access to the hot springs and a terrific road at Radium.

into the springs but the ‘radium’ part of the name made me hesitate. Silly, I know. I was nevertheless rewarded with a wonderful hundred-kilometre ride over the mile-high Sinclair and Vermilion passes and through truly spectacular mountains.

Then came my encounter with the Valkyrie of the Lollipop Stick just outside Lake Louise and my diversion, by way of Yohohoho National Park, to Golden.

In the morning I had to retrace my path almost to Lake Louise before I could turn left towards the absolute highlight of my dozen days in Canada. I was riding the Icefields Parkway, a spectacular road which runs through the Banff and Jasper national parks just over the border from British Columbia in Alberta.

You do need to buy a National Parks Pass, but in view of what you get it seemed underpriced to me.

Commercial traffic on the Parkway is allowed a maximum weight of 4550kg, which keeps it pleasantly clear of trucks. The road is well maintained and beautifully surveyed to take maximum advantage of the scenic beauty it traverses. There is one fuel stop, at Saskatchewan Crossing about 80km north of Lake Louise.

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The Icefield itself, a collection of glaciers and cirques high on the mountains to the west, is about halfway along the Parkway. The information centre is on the opposite side of the road and looked busy to the point of being overloaded when I passed it up, but there are some gravel tracks you can take towards the glaciers which give you a good view.

Lookouts and walks to waterfalls from hanging valleys and other natural sights abound along the way, and if you’re observant you’ll see quite a bit of wildlife. I just missed seeing a black bear, but I did come very close to a small mob of mountain goats. I find it impossible to do justice to this road in words.

Its construction was an act of genius and its maintenance is a gift to every visitor.

Global warming is doing its work here, too. When the Crowfoot Glacier was named a century ago, it had three claws like a crow’s foot; since then, one claw has melted and another is well on the way. Clubfoot Glacier, anyone?

Jasper is a pleasantly low-key tourist town with the usual row of restaurants and souvenir shops. I stayed at the new hostel across the railway from the town centre – and does Canadian Railways have long trains or what! I got so fed up with waiting for one snail-paced train to clear the road crossing that I’m afraid I rode the Suzuki down to the pedestrian tunnel under the rails and up again on the other side. A young bloke on a kick scooter coming the other way and I gave each other a high five as we met in the tunnel.

Riding through the Columbia Mountains the next day was pleasant too, but I was still high on the buzz from the Parkway and the Rockies and probably didn’t do it justice. At Blue River I stopped for a meal and found a most peculiar restaurant. It was obviously run on the side of a

Waterfalls are everywhere on the Icefields Parkway.

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helicopter sightseeing and heliskiing business. The substantial number of staff busied themselves with clearing and resetting tables and other activities that looked a bit make-work to me while I and another potential customer stood by the sign asking us to allow said staff to seat us. This went on for quite a few minutes until one of the table-setters appeared to notice me for the first time. He sidled

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up and asked if there was something he could do for me.

“Show me to a table, perhaps?”

“Ah. Yes. Ah. Over… here?” where he proceeded to do some more rearranging. I ordered the blueberry pie, which was announced on a poster outside the restaurant as their specialty.

This seemed to throw my new friend into confusion – “blueberry… pie?” and he disappeared. A waitress finally

took my order and eventually the pie arrived. It was… underwhelming.

Skip Blue River, unless you’re a helicopter fan and don’t mind sloppy pie. And weird staff.

In direct contrast, my overnight stop in Clearwater was one of the best of the trip. Not only was River’s Way a wonderfully decorated house with large and comfortable rooms but Rozz, my hostess, turned out to have a sizeable

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dose of the Canadian superpower – the ability to do absolutely anything as long as it is outdoors and requires fitness.

She flew powered kites and hang gliders and had just taken up skydiving, just to list the aerial parts of her repertoire.

Once I was settled in, she disappeared with some friends and her large dog to take part in an overnight canoeing trip. Rozz appeared to be about 30, owned the house and had already

done more things than people of other nationalities do in their entire lifetime. But that’s the Canadian – or at least the British Columbian – way, from what I could see.

Dinner that night was at the Hop‘n’Hog Tap & Smokehouse, where the portions of excellent pork ribs were in keeping with the presumed daytime activities of the diners. As usual, copious craft beer supplies were also on

1. Another Icefields Parkway shot – the mountains just keep coming.

2. Motorcyclists, join the queue just like everyone else.

3. Beautiful road, beautiful mountains, beautiful weather.What did I do to deserve this?

4. A pretty typical mix of bikes.

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hand. I hummed the Lumberjack Song under my breath but was not brave enough to sing it out loud.

After a long and pleasant enough loop to the west through Clinton and Cache Creek I turned east again and ended the next day in Salmon Arm. I shall draw a veil of silence over my stay; suffice it to say that I chose the wrong hotel, the wrong pub for dinner and… well, probably just the wrong town. No offense, Salmon Arm, but… let’s leave it at that.

As happens so often, my luck had changed by the morning and I had a wonderful ride through Sicamous to Revelstoke and then south along Upper Arrow Lake to the ferry stop at Shelter Bay. This being Canada there was a stern sign at the ramp advising motorcyclists that they would get no priority boarding! Equality reigns, and I can actually see why they have this rule – at times the entire ferry could have been filled with waiting bikes.

From the ferry stop on the opposite side of the lake I rode south, once again with the lake at my side, to Nakusp and then on across he Selkirk Mountains to Kaslo, on Mirror Lake. This is a wonderful place, admittedly a bit of a tourist attraction (I almost wrote ‘trap’, but that would be entirely wrong) with a paddlewheeler drawn up on the shore and some unique-looking craft shops.

While we’re on the subject of craft, it also has a small brewery called Angry Hen; the logo is a chicken holding a meat cleaver and both the beers and the atmosphere are not too shabby.

I stayed in the pub, a gorgeous old building with a reasonable restaurant and, once again, a good range of beers. I sat over my dinner and admired the lake, imagining one of the paddlewheelers which once continued the work of the railways when they

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1. Is this the wildlife crossing? Of course it is.

2. Dinner at the Cranbrook brewpub.

Interesting-looking and very tasty.

3. Rivers have the unmistakable colour of rock ground up by glaciers.

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1. Rollin’ and chillin’ in British Columbia.

2. In theory, there’s wildlife everywhere. Sadly I didn’t see much.

3. A fairly typical brewery bar. Note the names of the beers on the wall.

4. He looks a bit sad because he’s for sale.

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reached the lakes, chuffing its way along. This, I decided and noted the conclusion in my diary, was not the worst way to spend a long northern evening. And so to bed.

A Mexican gentleman at the previous day’s ferry stop had told me that the road from Kaslo south to Nelson was considered a bit of a motorcycle mecca and it was certainly fun. Along the way I even spotted a sign advertising motorcyclists’ campground.

I had decided that I would ride the Selkirk Loop, one of the much-vaunted (and not always appropriately) US Scenic Byways, to see if it warranted the name.

That meant crossing the border back into the US, a much less painful matter than arriving in Los Angeles by air, and I found myself amazed at the change in vegetation once I was south of the border. The ubiquitous evergreens grew more and more scarce and the green paddocks dried out to a yellowbrown. It was only the Pend d’Oreille River, which the road followed, that provided some greenery.

Riding the Selkirk Loop requires you to cross into Idaho, and I didn’t have a map. I stopped just before the border in Newport and went to the office of the Forestry Service. The woman there was staggeringly helpful and not only provided a map but all sorts of other useful bits of information, which I promptly lost when I forgot to zip up my otherwise extremely convenient SW Motech tail bag. Fool. With the assistance of my phone I made my way to Sandpoint, a particularly welloff looking place with all of the huge homeware and other emporia that brand successful American towns everywhere. After Canada it was a bit of a culture shock. The Selkirk Loop turns north here and I turned with it.

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On the road, cool sunglasses and a cool helmet.

Fortunately the next town is Bonners Ferry, which has a small but historic downtown with a craft brewery and, on the other side of the Kootenai River, a wonderful and well-priced b&b in an old school building.

I closed the Loop the next day at Salmo, cut across to Trail and then up to Castlegar and on northwards. All the way to the border the vegetation recapitulated the change I’d seen the day before, and by the time I crossed into Canada again I was once again riding through greenery. Weird.

Past Valhalla Park I rode back up to Nakusp and then turned south to follow Arrow Lake once again – I wasn’t sure if this was Upper or Lower.

And at Fauquier, where I had intended to take the ferry across to Needles and find a motel, it looked as if my luck was finally running out.

Nope, there was no accommodation at Needles. Nor anywhere else on that road before Cherryville, and probably not there. I would have to ride at least a hundred kilometres in the gathering darkness with wildlife just waiting for me along the way. Nope, there was no room in Fauquier’s lone motel. But – noted the good lady at the motel –

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perhaps Leslie would have a cabin free.

Mind you, she only had three of them.

My luck held. Leslie did have a cabin free at her Hummingbird Cabins ‘n’ Breakfast. A single cabin, with room for nothing much apart from a queen size bed but with a homey friendliness that would be hard to beat. Leslie is in a wheelchair but that doesn’t seem to slow her down any. She and I got on famously and I was sorry to have to miss breakfast because my stomach didn’t like me particularly that morning.

A not entirely unusual experience, despite the previous evening’s lack of craft or any other kind of beer at the small shop. They had applied for a license, but these things take time – even in Canada.

After the ferry crossing in the morning, the road to Cherryville and beyond did turn out to be one of the loneliest and most wonderful rides of my trip. Where it crosses the Kettle River there’s a gravel road that follows the river down to Westbridge on Route 33, and I turned off almost without thinking. A few kilometres down I realised that my fuel range would take me to Cherryville, as I had planned, but not to Westbridge. I reluctantly

turned around. The V-Strom had been enjoying the track, and so had I. I turned south again from Vernon, and took the quiet road on the western side of Okanagan Lake which had been recommended to me and which turned out to be a cracker. Wonderful views across the lake, minimal traffic and an excellent surface. The surface quality continued after I crossed to the eastern side of the lake at Kelowna and continued south to – well, waddaya know, Westbridge! Not that there’s much there. It wasn’t far from there to Grand Forks, where the motel receptionist looked at me carefully and announced that they had a senior’s discount. She then refused to believe me when I told her that I was 72 – “No wrinkles!” – but gave me the discount anyway. Only five bucks, but five bucks is, as we all know, five bucks.

I left Canada somewhat reluctantly the next morning through the Laurier crossing point. The American border official shouted at me all through our short interaction, but he was very polite.

Just loud. I think I’ll be going back to Canada, if they let me in again – I hope they received the payment for that fine.

I haven’t had a receipt… D

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PuBOFThEMOnTh

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ECHUCA, VIC A whole town, not a just a pub! WORDS/photos COLIN WheLaN

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P UB OF THE MONTH

RATED 4 OUT OF 5 HELMETS

Henry’s Bridge Hotel 1 Hopwood Pl, Echuca VIC Ph: 03 5480 1000

Star Hotel

45 Murray Esplanade, Echuca VIC Ph: 03 5480 1181

Echuca Hotel

569-571 High Street, Echuca VIC Ph: 03 5482 1087

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aPPy as Larry!

That pretty much sums it up when you lob at a pub, get a welcome from the staff and a nod from the locals. Oh, and if the place hasn’t been totally taken over by race screens, odds boards and pokie machines. A place where you can relax, talk if you want, or mull the day if you don’t.

Because there’re few things more comforting than a smiling face after a day’s ride and there’s no surer way to kill a country pub faster than selling its soul to gambling.

But down along our rivers, such as they are at the moment, the Pub and the Punt have had a much longer, much healthier and very different symbiotic relationship. And it’s this connection of pubs and punting that brings me to Echuca on the Murray.

I’m booked into Echuca’s (just) oldest hotel, the Echuca Hotel, one of few pubs here still with accommodation.

You can park the bike on the grass around the back and the showers work well. That’s about it for the good stuff. The rooms are basic, there’s no air-con, just a pedestal fan. You can open the windows but they don’t have screens so the mozzies will keep you slapping all night and you have to close the curtain because there’s a spot light shining up on the façade and into

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your room. The bar downstairs has 30 pokies and more than half the bar is dedicated to gambling.

But that’s okay if this pub is now dedicated to the punt ‘cause this is far from being a one pub town. There’s another place which is just six months younger that was born pretty much as a Siamese twin with the Punt, but in a much healthier way.

Henry Hopwood was one of a disparate group of opportunists and businessmen, scoundrels and altruists, entrepreneurs and exploiters who, in the middle 1800s adopted a novel business model.

Find a spot where a popular stock route meets a major river and where the river’s banks facilitate crossing, build a pub on one side to feed and accommodate travellers and with yards for stock, and construct a punt to get the herds and the bullock drays across the water. Charge ‘em when they go and charge ‘em when they stop!

These are who I’ve dubbed, “the Pub ‘n’ Punters”.

Ex-convict Henry’s first gig in Echuca was at the boiling down works, and when this stinker went bust, he bought the property, consolidated the buildings and opened his New Road Inn. “Echuca” allegedly means, “meeting of the waters” and it stands on the confluence of the Murray and the Campaspe. Henry first punted on a punt and then a bridge over the Campaspe but that was small beans to the traffic which was crossing the Murray a bit downstream at Maiden’s Punt. So Henry built not just a punt, but a revolutionary pontoon bridge.

In 1857 he’d ingratiated himself so successfully with the Victorian political establishment that they passed, “An Act for making and maintaining a Bridge over the Campaspe River at Echuca”. For Hopwood it wasn’t so much a government Act as a license to print money. It allowed, “Henry Hopwood …to take and demand for a limited period a moderate toll on all persons animals and vehicles passing over the said bridge”.

Through savage discounting, bullying and political greasing, Hopwood soon

drove James Maiden into the grey dust and bought out his Murray punt. Now he owned both Murray crossings and the Campaspe. He pretty much had a license to print money.

(Which he did! Hopwood literally printed his own banknotes to pay his workers. The notes were redeemable at this hotel, stores and punt. This was serious chutzpah!)

In 1858 Hopwood commissioned the building of his all brick Bridge Hotel at the southern side of his Murray Crossing, at the downstream end of the Wharf precinct.

This glorious place is still standing, and in the afternoon sun it’s a seriously beautiful pub. Just off from the front entrance, the only known photographic image of Henry Hopwood, publican and punter, stares down from behind an old style gum ball dispenser.

The Bridge Hotel’s a perfect place for an end of day’s ride refreshing cold one either in the sun out front or in the spacious garden out the back. Not a screaming punting screen in earshot!

It’s quiet the arvo I’m there but a big bloke is running around like a blue arsed, setting up for the evening rush.

Turns out he’s Paul Jarman, the owner and he’s too busy for a chat right now but could I drop around to the Star Hotel, right across from my digs, i n the morning?

Too easy! I grab a red and order the house speciality, a genuine Yoder smoked platter of spiced brisket, pulled pork, beef snags and wings with corn, wedges and a couple of sauces.

This, people, was good! Eight hours to smoke, gone in 30 minutes!

If you’re just taking a break in Echuca, there’s a ton of parking right out the front of the Bridge Hotel, but no designated bike spaces.

Early next morning I head out to the confluence of the Murray and the Campaspe, known around here as simply, “the Junction”, and try to get shot from the same angle as an old image I have of the rivers in the late 1800’s.

This is where you want to spend the night in Echuca if you’re into camping.

Head out past Henry’s obelisk and

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P UB OF THE MONTH

you’re in tranquil, beautiful river country, just the birds and occasional jumping fish and a river on either side.

Then back into town and the Star Hotel where Paul’s already directing operations.

Paul Jarman was born and bred in Echuca and after years of travel

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returned here about 20 years ago to raise his family. Ten years ago, with his wife and another couple, they bought the Star Hotel which is nominally on High Street but with a frontage also on the Wharf Esplanade. This proximity to the working harbour made it the pub of choice of the wharfies and

other workers and the renovation honours that heritage with a relaxed garden on the river side and a new swish atmospheric bar out the front.

This is the place to come if you’re into beer. There’re eleven on tap, and twenty-six varieties in glass.

If you’re going to drink the taps,

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P UB OF THE MONTH

you’re going to need a week!

The hotel here opened in 1867 and to deal with the heat it advertised that, “a large underground bar... has been excavated.” Thirty years later the pub was delicensed and the wharfies weren’t impressed. They continued to drink sly-grog in the cellar but built an escape tunnel out to the road for use when the cops raided the joint. It’s all still there and has been turned into a mini-museum. Get down there!

Once they had the Star sorted, Paul and his partners bought the Bridge Hotel. They closed it for six months to completely rejuvenate it and re-opened it as family/travellers historic hotel.

Paul won’t say which is his favourite but his passion for both, for them as living, organic entities is the froth on his glass. As he discusses his pubs and his town his eyes have the glint of a man possessed and his arms swirl like the fingers on a header.

Two out of three ain’t bad Treat this place as a large noncontiguous pub rather than single cohesive entity.

The Campapse-Murray confluence provides fantastic bush camping, the Bridge Hotel is a kick-back end-of-day relaxed venue of rare quality and the Star Hotel offers you a choice of historic open back area facing the wharf or atmospheric cosy bar up front. Both pubs have top quality food.

The accommodation and the atmosphere are the Echuca Hotel is disappointing but the rest of the town has an elan and style that raises it above many other towns on the river.

If you’re into history, into good food and craft beers all provided by people with passion and enthusiasm, you’ll agree that these pubs and this town have a unique character of 5/5.

Adapting our helmet rating to suit this combination of venues, I reckon it’s a comfortable 4.

Well worth a couple of days!

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P UB OF THE MONTH

But he has to go. The day’s started and there’s people queuing to speak with him. Anything else just call him, and he’s off.

Henry Hopwood was a publicity slut and the Bridge Hotel had only been open a couple of weeks before a good old fashioned stoush saw his new pub getting a big dose of the free stuff: The Ovens and Murray Advertiser: “On Thursday evening Mr. Ganley and a number of gentlemen were conversing in the public room of Hopwood’s Hotel, at Echuca, when a person called Black, who we understand, has some pretensions to respectability, took offence at some remarks passed, and observed, in a loud tone of voice, that they were ‘’all a parcel of shicers, and he would clear the room of them in five minutes….. He then left the room… (returning with) … his overseer, and two men, and immediately proceeded to put his threat into execution… Mr. Ganley ordered the police to arrest Mr. Black …. After a hard fight the offenders were secured and lodged in gaol”.

Now you’ve gotta love a bloke with ‘pretentions of respectability’ and who’s got ‘schicers’ in his vocab, but

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Ganley must’ve had a bit of class too because the paper went on to note that after his arrest, “Mr. Black was bailed out by his generous foe, Mr. Ganley.”

If this 1858 fight encapsulated the gentlemanly aspect of invitations “to step outside”, twenty one years later Echuca was the setting for a face-off that epitomised the larrikin brawling culture of raw Australia.

By mid-1879 the backers of the country’s two best known bare knuckle fighters, NSW’s Larry Foley and Victoria’s Abe Hicken had, for almost a year, been angling for a bout to decide the inter-colonial championship.

These hugely popular bare-fisted bouts were illegal and the fighters, their handlers and backers had all been bound over by Victorian courts to not fight in Victoria so a plan was hatched and they all headed to Echuca. One camp based itself in the Echuca Hotel, the other at the Palace.

The Victorian had police followed them in force and the NSW cops in Moama were waiting should they cross the river. So when all was sorted

the camps used decoys to head up river whilst the fighters and their mob turned downstream and then crossed into NSW in the dead of night.

Next morning in front of 150 locals, bookmakers, gamblers and backers the two pugs went at it.

The first round lasted 23 minutes.

The fight wasn’t over for over 80 minutes by which time Hicken’s face was unrecognizable and Foley was the winner.

The purse was £1,000, a fortune in itself back then but his crew had backed him for far more than that.

Across the country papers ran full reports and news of the bout even spread to New Zealand. There a newspaper concentrated not on the fight but on Larry Foley’s fabulous winnings and its alleged headline has become a timeless catch-phrase for which we can thank this town and its punting pub founder, Henry Hopwood.

Next time you use it, think of Echuca and its great pubs.

The headline simply read: “Happy as Larry!” D

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AUNCH TL E A R O U T M A P #8 1

WOOF, WOOF! It’s Tassie, baby!

WORDS STUART PHOTOS VARIOUS

ZEEHAN

Hidden in a valley of rugged hills and rainforest, Zeehan was established in the late 1800s after tin, silver and lead discoveries sparked the largest mining boom in the west of the island.

Nicknamed ‘Silver City’, it quickly grew into Tasmania’s third largest town and social hub for the entire West Coast region.

Not surprising then that the West Coast Heritage Centre and Pioneers Museum, with its excellent displays on the area’s indigenous, pioneering and mining past, has one of the finest collections of minerals in the world.

Zeehan, like other West Coast mining towns, has seen many booms and busts, making it a living museum full of character and fascinating stories. Today, Zeehan’s Main Street is lined with grand old buildings like the Gaiety Theatre, supposedly visited by Dame Nellie Melba, beautifully restored and still entertaining locals and visitors.

And for something different, at the end of the street you’ll find the Spray

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Tunnel, a 100-metre abandoned railway tunnel that you can walk, ride or drive through.

Nature lovers can enjoy the views from the top of Mount Zeehan, explore the wild West Coast at Trial Harbour and Granville Harbour, climb the massive Henty Dunes behind Australia’s longest beach and explore the nearby wilderness.

complex OH&S regulations, all the visitor can do is view the operation from afar; admire the old aerial bucket ropeway which crosses the main road on the Burnie side of town; and inspect the interesting exhibits at the Rosebery Heritage Centre which include picnic seats (with good views over the town) which were made from “redundant underground man cars”.

ROSEBERY

THE GEOLOGY OF THE AREA

Rosebery was named after the Rosebery Gold Mining Company which had, in turn, been named after Archibald Primrose, 5th Earl of Rosebery who was Prime Minister of Britain in 1894-1895. The company was founded by Tom McDonald who found gold on Mount Black in 1893.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO THE MINE There used to be a time when visitors could inspect the mine. Now, with

The ore in the Rosebery area is a complex of metal sulphides which contain lead (galena), zinc (sphalerite), copper (chalcopyrite), silver (tetrahedrite and electrum), gold and iron. It is contained in a host rock of fine-grained sediments which were laid down in an active volcanic region, known as the Mount Read volcanics, about 600 million years ago. The ore runs 2 km in a north-south direction to a depth of around 1.7 km. It can be mined until 2024 at least.

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CRANKIN’ IT

DISTANCE – 146km FUEL – Zeehan, Rosebery

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or this ride we started out of Zeehan and headed anticlockwise…it is a rather easy route to follow so if you don’t want to take a map with you – this is the one!

Head east on Zeehan Highway turning left onto Murchison Highway about four kilometres out of Zeehan. Follow all the way to Tullah. About three kilometres out of Tullah turn left onto Pieman Road and follow this all the way back around to Zeehan.

About three-quarters of the way round the road does turn into Heemskirk Road.

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THE UNDERGROUND MAN CARS Located at the Rosebery Heritage Centre are some unique picnic seats made from Underground Man Cars. A sign explains that “this is a place to sit and contemplate the lovely views of Mount Murchison, Mount Black, Mount Read and the surrounds of Rosebery” and that the idea to place the Man Cars was that of Joe Sucic and it became the dream of Christine Winskill at MMG Rosebery Mine. Enjoy the experience of having lunch on a Man Car. HERCULES TO ROSEBERY AERIAL ORE BUCKET ROPEWAY Constructed to move ore from the Hercules mine to Rosebery, this elaborate aerial ore ropeway remained in use until 1986. The remnants of this highly unusual method of ore transportation can be seen crossing over the road on the outskirts of the town.

MONTEZUMA FALLS

The Montezuma Falls are located 5km to the south of Rosebery. The road to Williamsford and Montezuma Falls is 2km south of Rosebery. The falls tumble 104 metres and are considered to be one of the highest falls in Tasmania.

The Parks and Wildlife Service website describes the 3 hour return (4km one way) walk as being easy and following the route of the narrow two feet wide, historic North East Dundas Tramway. They describe the appeal of the walk as “Walking from Williamsford, the track is almost entirely through pleasant and open park-like rainforest. This includes leatherwood, myrtle, sassafras, giant tree ferns and eye-catching fungi.

MOUNT READ

Mount Read is 1588 m above sea level and offers excellent views of the entire area. The walking route is actually a road which is about a kilometre south of Rosebery and heads up the hill to “a forest of communication towers”. It offers excellent views down on Rosebery

and, on a very clear day, it is possible to see as far as Macquarie Harbour in the south. It also has interesting signage about the history and geology of the area.

php?f=42&t=4120 describes the walk in detail. Check it out. Mount Farrell is only 712 m above sea level but it does offer excellent views across Lake Mackintosh and Mount Murchison.

MOUNT MURCHISON

TULLAH

This excellent bushwalk commences from a few metres south of a track sign on Anthony Road near pole D15 and follows up the ridge through forest, including tall tea trees and then emerges into the open with head high bushes gradually diminishing in size to waist level before turning north westerly and climbing cross slope. It involves several scrambles up rocks. Eventually steepness lessens before a clamber over a small rocky crest to reveal the central bowl of Mt Murchison and the final short climb on the sloping rock face to the summit. The track is in good condition and takes 2 hours 15 minutes up and about 2 hours on return.” Mount Murchison rises to 1275 m but is a difficult walk. Most walkers follow the power lines to the saddle of the mountain from where a track leads to the top. The mountain is commonly covered in snow in winter time and, like all mountains in the area, is prone to dramatic and very rapid seasonal changes.

MOUNT FARRELL

Bushwalk Australia’s website http:// bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.

Originally called Mt Farrell, Tullah was once only accessible by foot, horse or the Mt Farrell tramway - now the Wee Georgie Wood tourist attraction.

During the construction of the Pieman hydroelectric power scheme in the 1970s Tullah reached a population of 2500. Its role in the Hydro developments saw Tullah featured in the Richard Flanagan novel “The Sound of One Hand Clapping” in 1997.

Set at the base of Mt Farrell, Tullah can be explored on foot, bike, boat or kayak. In this peaceful village with a calm atmosphere, the locals are always happy to have a chat and give advice on the best places to explore.

When travelling to Tullah note that there is no petrol available - but many a place to take a break, enjoy a drink and a magnificent view.

LAKE PIEMAN

Lake Pieman is a man-made reservoir created by the damming of the Pieman River. It is a long, narrow lake following the line of the Pieman River from Reece Dam back to Rosebery and the Bastyan Dam. D

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LAUNCH

HARLEYDAVIDSON FXLRS

Low Rider S Swing low, sweet chariot WORDS the bear PHOTOS H-D

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LAUNCH Take it away!

Black is the way to go.

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HE 2020 FXLRS brings together four things that deserve each other – the 114 cubic inch Milwaukee-Eight engine and the latest Softail frame, along with upgraded suspension and clear, clean styling.

The flexible Milwaukee-Eight 114 (1868cc) is also the most powerful H-D engine I’ve used, punching out 161Nm at 3000rpm. You can feel all of those Newtons when you pull away from a stop. A dual counterbalance keeps vibrations from the rigid-mounted engine at a pleasant level.

I’m a great fan of the new Softail frame; I would actually have preferred a new name as well, because the previous effort that carried the name was better at looking right than performing right.

The new one is far better, lighter but stiffer, and looks even better too. The 43mm upside-down fork and the single

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RIDE IT TO THE LIMIT GPS AND PHONE MOUNTS

RACKS AND LUGGAGE

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CRASH PROTECTION

Jump online at motorradgarage.com.au to see the full list of bike specific accessories available for your ride and a huge range of additional gear designed to complement any bike.

For more information call or visit one of our showrooms or shop online at: SYDNEY 53 Parramatta Road Lidcombe NSW 2141

PERTH Unit 1, 108 Welshpool Road Welshpool WA 6106

T: 02 9748 3006

T: 08 9350 9052

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launch Shape is elegant and spare.

That engine is special.

shock – adjustable for preload under the seat – suit the frame. At 28 degrees rake, two degrees less than the standard Low Rider’s, quicken up the handling. I’m not a fan of 18” front wheels, but the reduced rake compensates for the Low Rider S’s quite nicely.

The styling is a bit of a return to the early Willie G. Davidson days – no, not the Superglide, thank the gods, but the FXRs – as it draws from the West Coast build scene. Milwaukee has not forgotten its roots.

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launch

If I may diverge from the subject a little, let me just point out that in my opinion, this bike is the perfect example of something that another new Harley has lost. The look of the Low Rider S combines modernity with clear and obvious references to the marque’s past; the recentlyshown Panamerica bears no sign of any heritage, except perhaps for the tank sticker.

But back to the S. At the launch, Harley boss Matt Levatich asked us assembled scribes to try to get across the enjoyment of riding when we review a bike.

I’m more than pleased to do that with the Low Rider S. While the riding position is quite odd at first you do get used to it, and otherwise the bike is a lot of fun right from the off. It pulls like the proverbial train, tips into corners happily and flies out of them. Despite the steeper steering head angle, it is rock-steady at speed and copes acceptably well with our poor road surface. The seat seemed comfortable, as Harley seats usually are, but I didn’t get to ride the bike for long enough to comment on extended comfort.

The price may look high to nonHarley riders, but I think $27,995 offers good value, especially as this is the cheapest bike in the H-D range with the 114 cubic inch engine. The look is blacked-out, which works best on the all-black version. The Barracuda Silver bike distracts the eye a little; I suspect most sales will be Vivid Black.

At the presentation of the bike, the emphasis was all on performance, and while the bike certainly doesn’t disappoint on that front, I’d say the key to the Low Rider S is synergy.

Everything works well together, and I guarantee you’ll be singing into your helmet as you buzz the traffic getting out of town.

“Swing low, sweet chariot…” D

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2

1.Twin disk front brake.

2. Alternative colour is a little plain.

3.Traditional instrument arrangement.

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R1250GS | R1250RT | F850GS | F750GS HAVE LANDED & THEY’RE GETTING RAVE REVIEWS! TAKE THE ULTIMATE TEST DRIVE & RIDE IN NEW ZEALAND Only available from Paradise Motorcycle Tours.

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LIMITED AVAILABILITY, ENQUIRE NOW.

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30/6/19 1:33 pm

S U M M E R G E A R Special Feature

BE THE ONE

Hot to trot Keeping your cool on and off the bike COMPLIED BY STUART

S

UMMER AND THOSE long hot summer days are fast approaching.

It’s now that you should be thinking about what riding gear you have, or don’t have, or need to replace/update. As we normally do we put the call out to the various distributors to show you what they have on offer. Here is what they reckon will keep you cool this summer…

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

HELD BIKER FASHION www.heldaustralia.com.au

Air Stream II gloves - $195 This cuffed glove is made with a highly abrasion-resistant kangaroo leather palm, mesh fabric (100% polyester) and leather detailed back featuring a colourfast and sweat-proof lining, Kevlar and DuPont Coolmax lined back, special step seam which avoids pressure points on inner hand and enhances feel, Velcro adjustment at cuffs, perforated leather back, perforated finger panels and sidewalls of fingers in lightweight mesh fabric, perforated hand for maximum ventilation, feel and comfort, hard plastic knuckle protection, Superfabric reinforcement on fingers and edge of hand and protectors on edge of hand, covered with leather. Available in Black and sizes 7-12.

Desert gloves - $130 A mid length cuffed summer glove made from a highly abrasionresistant kangaroo leather palm and mesh fabric (100% polyester), leather detailed back, featuring a colourfast and sweat-proof lining, Velcro adjustment at cuffs, elasticated leather panels on back, thumb and fingers, perforated finger panels and sidewalls of fingers in lightweight mesh fabric protection, hard plastic knuckle protection covered with Superfabric brand material (32% polyester, 68% epoxy resin), Superfabric

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Summer Gear reinforcement on edge of hand and double leather at palm. Available in black and sizes 6-12.

Tropic II summer jacket - $299.99 Lightweight ventilated jacket made from Heros-Tec 600D fabric (100% polyester) with a mesh lining (100% polyester). This summer jacket features 2 external pockets, 2 inner pockets, cool mesh material in front, back and arms, arm adjustment, soft collar, EN 1621-1 soft protectors at shoulders and elbows, special foam padding at back (optional EN 16212 back protector), connecting zip and reflective sections Available in a number of colours and men’s sizes S-5XL and ladies sizes DS-D3XL.

wrists and cuffs, perforated finger side walls, perforated hand for maximum ventilation, feel and comfort, elasticated leather panels on back, thumb and fingers, visor wiper, certified under norm EN 13594:2015 “protected glove for motorcyclists”, Suprotect shockabsorbing special foam on back of hand and ball of thumb, titanium knuckle protectors and Superfabric reinforcement on fingers and edge of hand. Available in Black, White/ Black and White/Orange and sizes 7-12 (including some half sizes).

Sambia summer gloves - $145 One of Held’s best-selling adventure/summer gloves, the Sambia is made from a spandex leather detailed back and highly abrasion-resistant and tactile kangaroo leather palm, featuring a colourfast and sweat-proof lining, special flat seam, Velcro adjustment at cuffs, perforated finger side walls, air-vents on fingers, certified under norm EN 13594:2015 “protected glove for motorcyclists”, hard plastic knuckle protection and Superfabric reinforcement on edge of hand. Available in Black or Black/Grey/Red and sizes 7-12.

MACNA

www.macnaridinggear.com.au

SR-X summer gloves - $260 This sports summer glove is a cut down version of the amazing Phantom II race glove. Made from all Kangaroo leather it features a colourfast and sweat-proof lining, special step seam which avoids pressure points on inner hand and enhances feel, pre-formed, creasefree palm, Velcro adjustment at

Cool Vest Dry Evo - $249.95 Your body heat and the surrounding temperature causes the water inside the cool vest to vaporize. This creates a significant cooling effect of body temperature by up to 15c whilst keeping the rider totally dry. Holding 500ml of room temp tap water which lasts up to 3 days between refills. This has to be the

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is this new Ladies checker overshirt style jacket, the “Madison”. Designed to look and feel just like a heavy-duty cotton over shirt with an extreme abrasion resistant DuPont Kevlar lining and impact resistant CE armour in the shoulders and elbows.

perfect piece of summer riding gear, so grab one now!

Hurracage jacket - $299.95 All new hybrid jacket from Macna designed for the hot Australian summers, with the added benefit of a removable Raintex Plus membrane which keeps you dry when it rains.

Made from a Polyester 500D/mesh construction featuring Betac CE Level 1 perforated, breathable shoulder and elbow armour, CE back protector ready, supplied with a 12mm EVA plate back insert, laminated reflective strips on chest, back and sleeves for

maximum night time visibility, rear belt loop, waist adjustment straps for perfect fitment and comfort, Zipgrip, easy cuff light and a coat hanger loop.

Available in Black and Black/Fluoro and sizes S – 4XL.

MERLIN

www.merlinbikegear.com.au Ladies Madison Cotton/ Kevlar jacket – $229.95 Making a bold, custom rider statement

A combination of comfort, style and protection provide an enhanced summer riding garment. The Madison also features a back pocket to take CE

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Summer Gear

back armour, twin patch chest pockets and drop hem cut with silver snap stud detailing. Available in ladies sizes XS/8 – 2XL/18 in Red check.

resistant, with extra Cordura AFT reinforcements on the elbows and knees further increasing protection.

Jacket and trousers are fitted with the new, CE certified Rukka D3O Air XTR Level 2 joint protectors. Thanks to protector sleeves in the back and on the chest, the jacket can be further upgraded with additional Rukka D3O Air All Back and CP1 protectors.

Jacket available in sizes 46 – 60 (XS – 4XL), trousers in sizes 46 – 58 (XS – 5XL).

AGV

www.agvhelmets.com.au

Ark - main unit - $399, helmet specific bases - $29.95, handlebar remote - $149 Summer gear? Yep, you betcha.

The AGV Ark is perfect for all your summer riding. Seamlessly communicate with up to 4 riders simultaneously, with only the click of a button. Design specifically for AGV helmets, it allows to talk to riding companions up to 1.6km away, take calls, listen to music and more.

Compatible AGV helmets are the AX9 Adventure range, the K5-S Sports range and the fantastic Sport Modular Touring range. Additionally, a handlebar remote is available for true “hands on bar and throttle” operation.

RUKKA

www.innotesco.com.au AirventuR Men’s summer jacket - Jacket $705, Trousers $615 Rukka can do summer – the new AirPower collection. From sunshine to summer rain: the Rukka AirPower line now includes summer riding suits and light laminate suits.

A summer suit like the AirventuR offers very high air permeability, protection and top comfort in hot weather. Should it start to rain, the rider simply slips a water and wind proof laminate suit like the new Rukka StretchDry (separate product)

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over it. This way, Rukka combines effective weather protection and outstanding comfort even on the hottest summer days.

The fully-fledged touring suit AirventuR delivers 100% comfort and protection without compromise even in extreme heat. Numerous stretch inserts of both the jacket and trousers optimize the suit’s fit while leather patches protect the insides of the calves from hot engine parts. With their wide cut lower legs, the trousers can be comfortably worn over the boots. Riders may adjust the individual fit of the AirventuR with studs on the upper arms, Velcro adjusters on the cuffs and the ends of the legs as well as a waist belt on the jacket and double waistband fasteners on the trousers.

Spacious cargo pockets on jacket and trousers offer plenty of storage and a touch of adventure style.

AirventuR is made of extremely air permeable knitwear, containing mostly Cordura AFT as well as several areas with the even wider meshed AFT+. Despite its breeziness, this outer material is highly abrasion

AirventuR gloves - $200 The “AirventuR” gloves mark the launch of the first pair of Rukka motorcycle gloves taking advantage of the extraordinary properties of D3O protectors to offer a maximum of comfort, agility and defence.

Rukka introduces a pair of gloves that boast high-quality materials and innovative protection as well as dynamic looks. These lightweight gloves provide clear feedback on throttle, brake, clutch and switches; nevertheless they ensure effective protection of the rider’s hands.

The AirventuR is made of a combination of high-quality leather and tear-resistant Cordura which provides outstanding breathability and extraordinary abrasion resistance.

Additionally the fingers, the scaphoid bone and the edge of the hand are protected by impact- and breakproof plastic reinforcements, while an integrated D3O protector safeguards the knuckles. Thanks to its soft, flexible material that instantly multiplies crash damping in case of an impact the D3O protector combines optimum agility with maximum protection. A strong Velcro strap grants excellent fit of the glove – even in the case of a fall.

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Air-Ya Ladies summer jacket and trousers - Jacket $505, Trousers $430 The Rukka AirPower collection offers maximum comfort at high temperatures for motorcyclists. Now, the Finns have expanded the popular concept into their women’s range of motorcycling apparel with the AIR-YA suit.

Female riders can also ride their bikes in the accustomed Rukka comfort even on the hottest days of the year. The magic word is Cordura AFT. A knitted fabric,

it is extremely air permeable, letting the wind through to the skin almost without resistance. Moreover, on the sleeves and sides, Rukka uses AFT+, an even coarser mesh – maximum ventilation for maximum riding fun in the sun. To protect important belongings like cash and documents in surprise summer showers, Rukka fits the right outside pocket with a removable, waterproof inner bag. Matching the jacket, Rukka offers the AIR YA trousers. They are also mainly made of Cordura AFT with AFT+ on the sides. The trousers are fitted with a connecting zipper but can be worn with a belt as well thanks to a number of loops. For a comfortable and secure hold on the bike seat, Rukka equips the trousers with Antiglide-Keprotec on the outside of their seat area.

The high abrasion resistance of Cordura AFT and AFT+ as well as reinforcements of especially exposed zones deliver passive safety.

In addition, Rukka adds CE certified D3O Evo Range protectors on the joints which are specially tailored to the female anatomy.

The jacket is available in silver-grey with pink details, in black with silver elements and in black with orange trim in the women’s sizes 34 through 50 (XS – 5XL).

Available exclusively in black, Rukka offers the trousers with regular leg length in sizes 34 through 46 as well as the long sizes 36 through 42 and the short sizes 34 through 50.

Raymore Jacket and Eston Chinos - Jacket $505, Chinos $305 The textile jacket Raymore combines

HIGHLIGHTS Riding on Sardinia, Venice, Cinque Terre, Florence, Siena, Leaning Tower in Pisa, riding on mountainous Corsica, Chianti region.

TOUR DATE APR 18 - MAY 3, 2020 SEP 20 - OCT 5, 2020

an authentic vintage look with the latest safety and comfort features. It uses top quality materials like a highly abrasion resistant, blended Cordura

cotton fabric as an innovative outer material. Practical benefits include four outer pockets and two interior pockets.

The newly developed Rukka D3O Air XTR Level 2 joint protectors are true guardian angels, offering maximum impact protection. In addition, elastic Cordura inserts in the sides as well

adriaticmototours.com

Tuscany Sardinia Corsica Tour COUNTRIES Italy , France (Corsica)

DURATION 16 days / 14 Riding Days

ROUTE LENGTH 2.700 km (1.700 miles)

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S P e C I a l F e at U r e

as the sleeves and shoulders of the jacket ensure maximum mobility while air vents with zippers admit a refreshing breeze on hot days. The Raymore jacket is offered in the sizes 46 through 62.

Urban collection includes the Eston trousers in a trendy chino style. A wide choice of waists and leg lengths ensures almost every rider can find a great fitting pair.

DRIRIDER

www.dririder.com.au

Summer Gear

collar with Neoprene comfort roll, arm and waist adjusters for a tailored fit and a waist connection zip for pants. Available in 2 colours and sizes XS – 8XL.

and throttle grip area, protective leather panels on side of thumb and little finger, fully enclosed leather finger tips for added protection, Velcro wrist closure for easy usage and elasticised across back of wrist for better fit. Available in 2 men’s colours and sizes XS – 5XL and available in 2 ladies colours and sizes 2XS – L.

HJC

www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

Breeze vented touring jacket - $169.95 Summer jacket made from a Nylon 500D and Polyester 600D mesh outer featuring CE armour with hi density back protector, mesh comfort liner, pre-curved arms, neoprene stretch comfort collar, arm and waist adjusters, 2 outer and 1 inner pocket, reflective print for increased visibility and a connection zip for pants.

Available in 3 colours for men sizes XS - 4XL and available in 2 colours for ladies sizes 6 – 18.

Climate Control Exo 3 – $399.95 This premium vented sports summer jacket is made with a HT mesh, Polyester 600D and Oxford leather outer, featuring D30 LP2 Pro intelligent CE armour and hidensity back pad, removable water and breathable liner (10,000mm / 8000mm), removable 85g thermal liner, stretch panels in chest, shoulders and elbows, pre-curved arms, sports

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Vivid 2 Air Ladies - $319.95 Ladies specific premium jacket made from an abrasion resistant 900/600 Denier poly fabric and Ripstop and 500D air mesh outer, featuring CE armour with hi-density foam back pad, removable waterproof and breathable liner (10,000mm/8,000mm), removable thermal liner, mesh panels on the front, back and arms for airflow, inner mesh comfort liner, Neoprene comfort collar with soft micro fibre inner, multiple adjustment points allow for a tailored fit, strategically positioned stretch panels for comfort, 2 outer and 4 inner pockets, reflective print for low light visibility and a waist connection zip for pants. Available in 3 colours and sizes 6 – 22.

Air-Ride 2 gloves - $79.95 New cab off the rank for their 2020 range is the Air-Ride 2 made from a premium cowhide and abrasion resistant mesh featuring Carbon Fibre knuckle protectors, double layer palm

RPHA11 helmet - $649.90 A helmet as summer gear? Yes, of course, especially when the HJC RPHA 11 optimised shell is designed for outstanding air flow.

The advanced channelling ventilation system full front-to-back airflow flushes heat and humidity out of the interior thanks to 10 vents – 6 on the front of the helmet and 4 at the rear. The RPHA 11 is made with an advanced 6 layer P.I.M. Plus (Premium Integrated Matrix Plus) fibreglass aerodynamic shell featuring emergency kit (cheek pads) for safe and quick release in an emergency, Multicool interior with advanced anti-bacteria moisture wicking fabric, RapidFire shield replacement system: provides ultra-quick, tool-less removal and installation, wider eye port provides better peripheral vision for riders, enhanced shield dual lock system for high speed racing conditions, crown

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and cheek pads are removable and washable, eye glasses and sunglasses friendly, breath guard and chin curtain included and comes with a free Dark Smoke shield and anti-fog insert lens.

Available in a range of graphics in sizes XS – 2XL.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON

www.h-d.com.au or your local dealer

SENA

www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

Bar & Shield Logo 59FIFTY baseball cap - $50.19 Made from 100% cotton featuring an official 59FIFTY silhouette by New Era, embroidered HARLEY-DAVIDSON graphics on front and back, embroidered New Era flag logo on side, includes the official 59FIFTY visor sticker for authenticity and this cap has a fitted styling and one size fits all.

Savage open face helmet - $499.95 The Savage is the first open face motorcycle helmet with integrated Bluetooth 4.1, packing the premium communication technology Sena is known for. Connect with up to 3 other riders via built-in intercom up to 1.6km, listen to music, hear GPS directions, or take and make phone calls. Constructed from 2 unique fibreglass composite shells, multi-density EPS for added protection featuring a low fit, ECE 22.05 approved, optional long and short visors separate in the box, fully integrated Bluetooth system and a hidden battery pack and microphone.

Available in Matt Black in sizes M-XL.

Jersey Applique Log Slim Fit T-shirt - $57.36 The Jersey Tee is uniquely crafted to achieve a broken-in vintage feel. Our men’s short sleeve shirt features bold block letters that are laser cut then adhered for an updated appliqué style.

Available in sizes S-3XL.

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biketest

BMW R 1250RT Shifting with the ShiftCam

WORDS ralph photos BMW and RALPH

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Y

ou know what happens when you let some mad scientists loose in BMW’s Cloverleaf Building in Munich? You get the BMW Motorrad R 1250 with ShiftCam in its touring RT guise.

There is more technology thrown into what is essentially a very simple design than in the entire North Korean missile program.

BMW has been producing quality flat boxer twins for nearly 100 years, but market and emission control demands in this, the third decade of the 21st century, are calling for more serious developments than ever before. So I can understand why they have thrown the kitchen sink at the RT. I have followed the technological progression from my first new BMW in ’78, a simple and beautiful R100/7, by way

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BIKe TesT

of a GS 1200 in 2008 and a GSA in 2010, but I am still truly amazed (and impressed) with all the technofoolery BMW has stuffed under the bodywork.

First 12 hours: discoveries

Want to ride? You better get acquainted first. There is a keyless fob arrangement and proximity is all it takes. I manage to get the dash to light up and the engine running to escape the office for an afterhours pick up. The lack of backlit switches on a modern $35,000 high-tech tourer is baffling. It’s near impossible in the dark to work out all the controls.

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Piaggio-Vespa has it.

By the time I hit the freeway north out of Sydney, I have worked out the super comfortable 100kw twin has toasty warmers for the seats and handlebars, and to cut the icy night air away from my upper body- an electronically adjustable windscreen.

Via the toggle rotating twisty thing on the left-hand ‘bar I search and find I can adjust the three tripmeters, the countdown to empty and an ambient temperature readout. Six degrees!

I leave the electronic suspension (ESA) in auto and my lower body is warm behind the body work. There

are few bikes that work as well in winter as the legendary RT series. The techno-nobs included a ‘change up gear’ reminder on the dash. I have an eventful ride home trying to stay alive avoiding a truck tyre retread thrown at me at warp speed. I can tell you the brakes are sensational and the LED driving lights are more than good enough to get me home safely.

Second day

The white-coats didn’t stop with shift assist. Twelve hours later I work out there is an excellent FM radio (the antenna at the front should have been

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a good clue but I was in survival mode in the above first hours). It took a call to BMW head-office to get a Tech’s help with opening the fuel filler and the panniers. By now I need a day just to work out the computations of suspension, engine modes and plan if I might like to do some decent miles.

I point the beast north out of my street into the warm winter sunshine, hook a right and blast through the gears using the just discovered quickshifter, and begin to think that maybe the boffins know what they are doing with this highly evolved boxer. I haven’t ridden the GS yet (see Stuart’s review in #77 with a full explanation of the ShiftCam operation) but I finally get what all the fuss is about.

Give me technology any day if this is a result of those millions of Euro’s R&D. This thing goes, in a commanding take-no-prisoner's way.

The twin is civilised, very smooth and refined, yet like nothing else on the planet with a uniquely responsive, building power. Compared to all previous Boxer models the 1250 is smoother at the magic 4000rpm mark and then the highway (speeds over 125kph) thrumming intrudes.

This isn't vibration that will put your extremities to sleep - they are more annoying from a cruising point of view. You hardly notice the welldamped isolation during acceleration.

Low-down power in the 'Road' engine mode is next to ideal for touring. If you really want to know how significant the improvement with ShiftCam is put the engine mode into 'Dyna' and clench the contact points and hang on. The mid-range will

Adele added…

‘Wow, what a comfy seat!’ was my first thought as I hopped on board, and yes, I use those words intentionally as it’s a big bike, it feels big, and I am told it’s 270kg without pillion... hmm, my mind quickly did the sums, yes not hard to get over the 400 mark... It is beautifully

annihilate any tourer I can think of short of the supercharged Kawasaki.

Even then there wouldn't be a lot in it. Like the Kawasaki it will wheelie in third with ease. The immediate, pronounced acceleration puts the RT into the 'you would want to be pretty experienced' realm.

My favourite proving back roads leave a strong impression from the ESA suspension. Set it in Tour or Auto and the bumpy roads from Yarramalong to Wollombi are effortless. With the screen up to the highest setting, the RT feels like the effortless, super-comfortable bigdistance tourer it is. I wanted a bit more out of the chassis, and use more of that 100kW of power, so for the return leg I set the suspension and power to the Dyna mode. Suddenly (with the screen down low) the somewhat top-heavy and vague, soft feeling was behind me and there was a

smooth, and begs to be opened up on an open road. We chose the coastal run as we followed the sun which was a little stop start for this beautiful bike. You could feel that in traffic the start wasn’t always effortless.

When we did get a break, I had to hold on tight, as this bike has some power under that throttle.

It left me wanting more; a long open road with some twists, as this bike was comfortable with a sense that it had so much more to offer, and I was ready for a day or two of riding with panniers that offer plenty of room which might actually be hard to fill for a weekend getaway...

6 February - 1 March 2020

Adventure rides and tours around the globe

www.motorrad-tours.com www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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BIKE TEST

SPECS BMW R1250 RT

new and better personality. The RT is now an SST- a Super Sports Tourer.

THIRD DAY

The RT has a Hill Start assist! That took all the stress out of carrying Adele and the constant stops at lookouts. I knew there was a simpleto-use cruise control and it came in handy for the freeway drone home.

THE REMAINING DAYS

My BMW days were disrupted by awful rainy and windy weather.

Between carrying kit to the airport for the flight to an adventure bike launch and playing responsible parent, the RT didn’t get to do what it loves most: big miles. In 2000-plus kilometres I only scratched the surface of this touring master. A spin around the block can

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only give you a hint of its capabilities, and it will take a month to become completely familiar with all the functions and technology. I think that even after a full year, some owners will still be developing their appreciation of how well their money was spent.

Money: My old R100/7 cost me about of third of my then annual income and this latest 1250 represent approximately half of the average yearly income now. Of course I would have to come up with three times my original purchase price or more to grab a nice low mileage near perfect stroke seven now. I can’t tell you if the same will be the case for this RT but given the value of the safety and tech, the ShiftCam RT represent outstanding value. It’s not often that your head and heart can agree so easily. D

PRICE: $32,365 plus on roads WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 12,000km or 12 months ENGINE: Air/liquid-cooled, DOHC, eight-valve flat (boxer) twin BORE x STROKE: 102.5 x 76mm DISPLACEMENT: 1254cc COMPRESSION: 12.5:1 POWER: 100kW @ 7750rpm TORQUE: 143Nm @ 6250rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, shaft final drive SUSPENSION: Front, Telelever fork, electronically-adjustable, travel 120mm. Rear, Paralever, adjustable preload, travel 136mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 805-825mm, weight 279kg (dry), fuel capacity 25 litres, wheelbase 1483mm TYRES: Front: 120/70/ZR17. Rear: 180/55/ZR17 FRAME: Tubular steel BRAKES: Front, Dual 305mm radial-mounted four-piston ABS calipers.

Rear, Single 276mm disc, twin-piston ABS caliper FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5 litres per 100km, premium unleaded THEORETICAL RANGE: 500 km COLOURS: Alpine White; R 1250 RT Sport – Mars Red Metallic/Dark Slate Metallic Matt; R 1250 RT Elegance – Carbon Black Metallic; R 1250 RT Spezial VERDICT: IF YOU WANT OOMPH IN YOUR TOURING

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Special Feature

Cafe directory JERRY’S GOURMET KITCHEN & CAFE A great spot to meet up on the way north 693/695 George Downes Dr, Kulnura NSW 02 4376 1166

THE LITHGOW TIN SHED Popular stop if you are doing a Blue Mountains loop or stopping for tucker in Lithgow 69 Bridge St, Lithgow NSW (02) 6352 1740

D D D D D D D D D D

NONNA & CO Great meeting place and function venue.

153-165 Parramatta Rd, North Strathfield, Strathfield NSW 2137 (02) 9746 7281

INLINE4 CAFE Best café and fully licensed restaurant on the way to Philip Island Circuit I Vista Place, Cape Woolamai Philip Island, Victoria

D D D D D

0427 475 681

ROADIES CAFE Well known pitstop for those travelling through Gloucester 77 Church Street, Gloucester New South Wales 2422 02 6558 2772

D D D D D YORK LANE City Laneway cafe/bar run by the original Ducati riding ace racer.

York Lane behind Clarence St 02 9299 1676

D D D D D

D D D D D

THE SHAGGY COW Expectational coffee and food stop in the Southern Highlands

FOOD & COFFEE MOTORCYCLE VIBE

D D D D D

112 Main St Mittagong 02 4872 2966

D D D D D RISING SUN WORKSHOP You really do get to mix coffee, food and bikes in one hip place 1C Whately St Newtown, NSW 02 9550 3891

D D D D D PITSTOP AT MT MEE CAFE A great ride to a beautiful location north of Brisbane 2070a Mt Mee Rd, Ocean View, Queensland 07 342536520

D D D D D GREY GUMS CAFÉ Really the Centre of the Universe if you are travelling up The Putty 8679 Putty Road, Putty NSW 02 6579 7015

D D D D D

Your adventure. Our policy.

Call our specialist team on 1800 24 34 64 or visit qbe.com/au Conditions apply. QBE Insurance (Australia) Ltd. ABN 78 003 191 035.

AFSL 239545. Consider the PDS to see if a product is right for you.

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tRAVeL

3wheels TO THE SKY

Conquering the Himalaya by unusual means words The Adventurists

Photo: Henning of the Himalayeahs

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T

hIS JunE Saw fifteen teams from twelve different countries take on the challenge of the Rickshaw Run Himalaya, a thrilling week-long adventure through the Indian Himalayas.

Following a route which included the ‘highest motorable road’ in the world, the Run saw the teams having to battle with snow drifts and melting glaciers, potholes that were more like craters and the effects of high altitude.

While the usual mode of transport for tourists in the Himalayas is by foot (or possibly Royal Enfield), The Adventurists, the organisers of the Run, chose a less conventional means for teams to get over 5000-metre mountain passes: India’s famous threewheeler rickshaws.

The teams started in Leh, a highdesert city in northern India, and followed the famous Leh-Manali Highway and Spiti Valley, one of the

last haunts of the snow leopard, and home to thousand-year-old Buddhist monasteries, to finish 650 miles later in the foothills of Shimla. ‘Highway’ is a very loose term for the route they followed, it’s only open for four months of the year and winds its way up and over three huge passes including the Tanglang La pass, at a dizzying height of 5328 meters.

All the teams finished, but not without overcoming some serious

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t r av e l

Just wait, the snow line is waiting for you! (Photo: Cat of Tso Kaar)

Photo: Henning of the Himalayeahs

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challenges along the way. Late June snowmelt meant the Leh - Manali highway had been opened only nine days before the event began, leaving the road in a treacherous condition.

Single lane stretches, walled by meters of solid ice, caused a few headaches.

At one point five of the rickshaws were stuck at the Baralachala Pass, with the teams banding together to push one another over the rocky, muddy, ice-encrusted pass; all the while enduring the impatient beeps of local bus drivers.

It was not only the rickshaws that were struggling in these trying conditions. The teams recounted a story of pulling a car back onto the road that had slid into a ditch. “There were about 20 of us pulling on this rope tied to the front of the car, about 10 Runners and 10 locals. It was crazy, we were slipping all over the place, the car was sliding everywhere, it was mayhem. But eventually we got him out and we could all keep going”.

First over the finish line were Team Hazmat who conquered the Rickshaw Run Himalaya in seven days.

Matt Whyatt, from the team, recounts some of the journey to success: “I keep remembering moments, like wading through ice to push the rickshaw through and having nothing left due to the altitude. Turning corners to breathtaking view after breathtaking view. Turning up streets

The winners! Matthew Whyatt and Aaron from Team Hazmat celebrate their victory. (Photo:The Adventurists)

HIGHLIGHTS Sarajevo, Mostar, Adriatic coastal road, Hvar Island, 5 UNESCO World Heritage Sights: Plitvice National Park, Durmitor National Park, Kotor, Dubrovnik, Split.

TOUR DATE MAY 23 - JUN 6, 2020 AUG 21 - SEP 4, 2020 SEP 5 - SEP 19, 2020

Beautiful Balkans Adventure adriaticmototours.com

COUNTRIES Bosnia and Herzegovina, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro

DURATION 15 days / 13 Riding Days

ROUTE LENGTH 2.500 km (1.600 miles)

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t r av e l

What you get for your money The Rickshaw A 3-wheeled, 4-stroke air-cooled rickshaw, pimped to your own design with insurance and all the other necessary paperwork.

Pre and post-launch shenanigans Test driving, mechanical briefing, launch party and finish party.

Some kit A jerry can and a few key spare parts plus the tools to change them.

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The adventure A week of some of the most amazing adventuring possible in a rickshaw, or any three-wheeled vehicle for that matter.

in towns so crowded we hit more than half a dozen people and all of them smiled because that’s what all the locals did. We got almost run off the road so we would stop for a photo. Having to slam on the brakes, locking all 3 wheels up, and coming so close to a bus I could not see the driver. Stopping on the side of the road to marvel at the various religious monuments. Getting a bit misty-eyed.”

If you fancy taking on the Himalayas ‘by less conventional means’ in 2020, or to find out more, visit https:// www.theadventurists.com/brochures/ rickshaw-run-himalaya/ . D

2

1. Even the road signage is all about the bragging rights. (Photo: Henning of the Himalayeahs) 2. Ice walls reach to the sky around the narrow road. (Photo: Henning of the Himalayeahs) 3. Up on the highest mountains in the world with no light pollution, you get a pretty good view of the Milky Way and beyond. (Photo: Massimiliano of the Flaneurs)

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DROP IN TO THE LITHGOW AREA ON THE WAY TO MotoGP!

Drop into the Lithgow Visitor Information Centre for a FREE copy of the

Lithgow VisitoR inFoRmation CEntRE Call 1300 760 276 Email tourism@lithgow.com www.tourism.lithgow.com 1137 Great Western Hwy, Lithgow

(02) 6352 5111

Quality 4 star accommodation just off the Great Western Highway

Beautifully appointed King or Queen rooms, some with Spa baths to relax in after a big day of riding

Plus our Surveyors Restaurant is the best place to eat and unwind in Lithgow!

Home of tHe famous

Capertee pies!

"A country pub at it's best"

Open 7 days lunch and dinner. Find us on Instagram and Facebook.

Rooms and camping available. Plenty of off street parking and secure bike shed parking available. (02) 6359 0172

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LAUNCH

BeNeLLI

502c

Baby, baby! words the bear PHOTOS BENELLI AUS

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launch

P

esaro, where Benelli has its home, is an hour down the autostrada from Bologna where another motorcycle manufacturer lives, but you’d think it was closer when you look at the 502c. The bike looks like a Ducati Diavel that’s been washed on the hot cycle. That is not a criticism; we’ll let the Bolognese worry about suing for any possible design infractions. As far as I’m concerned, this is one pretty package.

In a field where its competitors are a Honda and a Harley-Davidson that carry off different California customizing looks reasonably well, Benelli has opted for the Italian power cruiser image instead and has pulled it off nicely. The bike also fulfills its promise on the road; the re-tune of Benelli’s liquid cooled jack of all trades twin cylinder engine has been successful and the bike is a pleasure on the road. That even extends to the

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riding position, something that is all too often sacrificed for styling.

Climb aboard the parked bike and if you’re tall, its main limitation strikes you immediately – around about the insides of your thighs. The flared top of the fuel tank is in your way. I’m just telling you this from what another rider said; for someone at five eleven or 180cm like me, it’s just right. My knees and thighs tucked in well, as you can see in the photos. That tank, by the way, doesn’t just look huge. It holds 21 litres for a range of 500km.

Hmm. Cruisers, even power cruisers like the one that this bike emulates, are not usually intended for long distance work, are they? I know that they get used for extended rides, but that’s rare and it’s not the idea. That is why most of them have small tanks. To equip the 502c with such a barrel presumably has a rationale behind it, but I find it hard to imagine what it might be.

This is not a travellin’ bike of any description – for a start, it would be just about impossible to carry luggage except for a tank bag. And the pillion who would thank you for a good long strop has not been born.

The rear seat would not suit most rears for a ride longer than home from the café.

As always there are two sides to any question. At least you won’t be stopping for petrol all the time, and you’ll be able to choose your time to fill up when the precious fluid is relatively cheap.

Okay, you’re aboard and sitting comfortably, hands on the pleasantly wide bars. The instruments are fairly basic but they tell you everything you need to know in an easily-surveyed layout. I like the way the time of day sits clearly displayed in the top left-hand corner. Speed indication is digital, revs are analog in a curve

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SPECS BENELLI 502C

across the readout screen – this is the ideal way to show them, as far as I’m concerned. There are plenty of idiot lights on the sides, including two blinker arrows. I can’t understand why some manufacturers only give you one. How much does a little blinking light cost?

You can see that build quality is good with neat welds and nice paint, cables are tidy. Fire it up and the engine sounds just that little bit rorty as you rev it, which is enjoyable.

Roll away and you’ll find yourself using one of the most flexible midsized engines on the road. Re-tuning has given the twin more bottom end, and it’s fun to use – not only on the open road but also accelerating out of corners.

Cornering is fun otherwise too; it is possible to ground the pegs quite easily, but less than on any other cruiser I’ve ridden that didn’t have

‘Moto Guzzi’ on the tank. Handling overall is good; the bike is steady at speed and the suspension copes fine with normal road use. So the 502c is quick, it goes around corners and it looks Italian. Oh, except for the headlight. That looks as if you’re face to face with Iron Man in some kind of extraordinary transformer guise. It’s a matter of taste, but I didn’t mind it. The twin taillights look terrific.

If you like Italian styling and snappy performance but lack the lire for one of the big bikes, you would be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t check out this bike.

One thing I’m sorry about is that Benelli didn’t see fit to give the bike a name. It’s personable enough to deserve a personality. How about Benelli Bambino? If you’re going to piss off Ducati, why not annoy Fiat at the same time? D

PRICE: $9790 (ride away) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance and roadside assistance SERVICING INTERVALS: 6000km or 12 months ENGINE: Liquid-cooled in-line twin, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 68 x 66.8mm DISPLACEMENT: 499.6cc COMPRESSION: 11.5:1 POWER: 35kW @ 8500rpm TORQUE: 45Nm @ 5000rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multiplate clutch, chain final drive SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm inverted fork, travel 125mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, travel 50mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 750mm, weight 217kg (wet), fuel capacity 21 litres, wheelbase 1600mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17.

Rear, 160/60/ZR17 FRAME: Tube trellis with steel side plates BRAKES: Front, twin semi-floating 280mm discs with radial mount four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 240mm disc, single piston floating ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 4.2 litres per 100km (claimed), premium unleaded THEORETICAL RANGE: 500km COLOURS: Matt Black, Gloss Black, Matt Red VERDICT: THE LITTLE ITALIAN THAT COULD

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travel The usual happy group photo!

WORLD ON WHEELS Roll up, roll up to WOW photos WORLD ON WHEELS

M

ost reaDers oF this magazine, and a few others launched and edited by The Bear over the past quarter of a century, would know of the motorcycle tour company World On Wheels. Indeed, many Australian riders regard the founder, Mike Ferris, as a godfather of the commercial motorcycle tour industry. Back in 1996 when The Bear started his brand new enterprise called Road Rider, Ferris was the subject of his very first editorial. He had recently established an operation named Ferris Wheels, the forerunner to WOW. On the 25-year anniversary of this occasion, The Bear sat down with Mike Ferris to shoot the breeze.

Indian Himalaya in 1993 and '94 on a Royal Enfield, and since then you've visited India every single year for 27 consecutive years. Are you fond of curry?

PT

PT

So, Ferris Wheels came about after you had ridden across the

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MF

As it so happens, I do love Indian food! Yes it's quite remarkable really Bear, if you had predicted this longevity way back then I would have sought a restraining order, but I don't know of anyone else who has had such a long-standing love affair with India. Certainly there's no-one else on the planet who has ridden a motorcycle across those Himalayan high roads more than Yours Truly.

Tell us how you got started.

MF

I had a massive self-induced midlife crisis at the tender age of 35. Shakespeare told us we could expect but three score year and ten, so I figured 35 was midlife. I resigned from my high powered, highly stressful, hi-tech job and went off to explore the Himalaya. I somehow managed to wangle my way into the 1993 Australian Everest Expedition without knowing how to pull on a pair of crampons, and in Kathmandu I managed to buy a Royal Enfield motorcycle without knowing how to pull on a helmet.

PT MF

Wait a minute; so you were not previously a motorcyclist?

Had never even sat on a pillion seat. What could possibly go

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wrong? I had no idea the Enfield's gears were on the wrong side of the bike, I had no idea drum brakes were invented by Barney Rubble, I had no idea that selecting an inadvertent neutral whilst heading downhill into a gravel corner could be so … invigorating. I guess I had no idea.

So with two pairs of socks on my hands, off I went to ride across the Himalaya. I got punctures, I threw a chain, I bent a pushrod, I dropped the bike half a dozen times in glacial creeks, but I was grinning like Jack Nicholson all the way.

This was the most awesome thing I'd ever done in my life.

PT MF

And then?

And then I returned to Australia with a profoundly crazy idea. First off, I went to the newsagent and bought every motorcycle magazine on the shelf, to confirm that nobody else had yet had the same silly idea. Then I advertised

in a few of them: 'Ride the Highest Road in the World on a classic Royal Enfield'. My phone rang 47 times in the next 14 days, and I became Australia's first motorcycle tour operator. I put together an itinerary which included that Highest Road, and my first

Denise and Mike Ferris ‘on high’.

commercial group consisted of eight pioneering Aussies. Ferris Wheels was up and running, in 1995.

I was in a fortunate position, thanks

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Mike on ice in Iceland.

to my previous career in writing software, to take advantage of a new phenomenon which would go on to change the world. In 1994 while my concept was still in development, the Internet was known as the World Wide Web, and I developed one of the earliest Web pages. I think the original Ferris Wheels webpage even pre-dates Google!

PT MF

When did you decide you were ready to take on the world?

The Himalayan Heights concept proved immediately successful. By 1998 I was running three groups of maybe 12 to 15 riders, in a pretty short northern hemisphere summer season. So I then looked to expand into other countries I had visited and which I thought might lend themselves to the same concept. In 1999 I added a tour of Turkey, then in 2000 a crossing of the Andes. With both of these I stuck to the same formula which had proved successful in the Himalaya; a support van to carry luggage, a mechanic to ensure the bikes ran each day, and a local tour escort who booked our hotels and spoke the language(s) we needed.

Rajasthan followed, then Nepal and Bhutan, and I forget the order but Morocco, Iceland, the Dalmatian coast,

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Mexico and Guatemala, the Baltic States, the Five Fingers of S E Asia …

PT MF

You no longer have the global stage to yourself of course.

Yep, true enough. It was inevitable that others would also see this as a wonderful opportunity to do what they love, and earn a living doing it.

If you Google 'motorcycle tours' these days you'll find a hundred or so operators offering a diverse range of adventures on two wheels. Some of them are well established and professional international enterprises such as Compass, Adriatic, Edelweiss, Eagle Rider. But a few of them are fly-by-nighters, with dodgy credentials.

We know we have personally spawned at least 5 or 6 operators within Australia alone; people who actually have been on a tour with us and then copied our Intellectual Property to set up shop on their own. It leaves a sour taste in the mouth to be honest. There's one particular err, gentleman in Sydney who has plagiarised huge tracts of our descriptive narrative, verbatim, into his own webpage. Stays in the same hotels, takes lunch in the same restaurants…

PT

Hmm, so what of the future?

MF

Well it's no secret that Denise and I have had the business on the market for a couple of years. We'd like to ride off into the sunset and leave the business in the hands of someone who can take it to the next level, and we'd love nothing more than to pick up a bike magazine in 10 years' time and read how World On Wheels keeps expanding into new frontiers. You must be just about ready for a career change, Bear, before you hang up the helmet?

PT MF

Moving right along, when did you change the company name?

Only recently, actually. We were Ferris Wheels for 20+ years then we had our own TV series on the 7 Network a few years ago called World On Wheels, and suddenly the Eureka light globe came on. To portray the business as truly global and less Ferriscentric, it made sense to change to World On Wheels (www.WorldOnWheels. tours), which we did in 2016. We love the WOW acronym, and several of our international business partners have since said, Damn I wish I'd thought of that.

PT

Well I wish you all the best in your retirement, wherever that is.

Maybe I'll see you there. D

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LONGTERMERS

LOVE YOUR PUG PEUGEOT DJANGO 150

Y

OU COULD SAY the Vespa brand is the King of the scooter scene, but you might be very surprised to find the Peugeot range is on a par (in my eyes). I spent some time racing around on our Django 150 and these are my initial thoughts…

The engine allows the Django to pull away and gap most of the tin tops from a standstill, it does slow down slightly when it gets to uphills on roads over 80km/h but you expect that from a small capacity engine. The seating position is a little ‘small’ for a tall lank like me but perfect for all of you ‘way down there’. LOL! Handling is exceptional as the Django is light and easy to handle, but the big surprise is it doesn’t smash and bang over rough sections of road or potholes – this is a major factor with most scooters, they usually feel like they’re going to fall apart, not only because of their small wheels, but more flexible frame. Not the Django though – it’s solid in the frame and compliant enough in the suspension to soak up most of what is thrown at it on our roads.

FOR A COMPLETE RANGE OF TINTED & LARGER SCREENS

The only gripe I have with the Django is the location of the indicator button, it is quite a reach – and I have big hands. I can only imagine someone with smaller hands having to basically let go of the left hand bar to use the button.

Fit and finish on the Django is first class. I’m quite impressed with the quality of the paintwork and how the panels fit with tight lines.

I did use the amazing Motomuck cleaner to give the Django a wash. A light spray and a Gerni off is all that was needed to bring up the amazing shine. There are no sharp areas to slice your fingers while wiping it down either – always a consideration to bear in mind! As much as I’m not a ‘scooter man’ I am seriously impressed with our Django – you should go and check one out and take it for a ride. SW GIVE ME A POLISH ROYAL ENFIELD 650 INTERCEPTOR

I’ve come up with an idea if I was to own a 650 – buy a polishing wheel kit (similar to the one shown in the pic) for a Dremel or similar (or even your drill), you can then save on muscle wear and tear and let the machine do all the work for you! Look for a kit with small, medium and large polishing wheels which will cover all the surfaces you’re faced with on the 650. Just remember to pack your sunnies as the shine will be blindingly cool. SW AHH, THAT’S SOOO GOOD! KAWASAKI Z900RS The Corbin seat we’ve fitted to the RS is just about to hit 2500km of use so we’ll have a full report on it in the next issue. Why 2500km? Corbin suggest their seat won’t be at its best until you’ve covered this kind of ground so while we love it already, our mind will be blown if it gets even better again!

If you can’t wait until then order your Corbin seat now through Select Edge – www.selectedge.com.au SW D

One thing you get to learn when living with the Royal Enfield 650 is that the polished engine side covers don’t like sitting out in the weather. Hand polishing them with a quality Metal Polish is the only way to get them back to perfect but

www.eaglescreens.com.au www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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travel

Booked

again I

’ve written about motorcycle books at various times in the past, but I’ve never tried to be quite as comprehensive as this. These are the motorcycle travel and – dare I write it – motorcycle ‘lifestyle’ books currently on my shelves, plus the guidebooks next to them. I say ‘currently on my shelves’ because I own quite a few more but they are currently on other people’s shelves. If you’ve got any of my books, give them back, damn you!

I have only identified books by their name, author and ISBN because that’s

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If you’ve finished reading the current issue of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, here are a few suggestions to carry you through until the next issue.

WORDS/photos the bear

enough to find a copy on the web if you want one. Couldn’t be bothered adding the publisher etc, because that doesn’t help you any more and just takes up space. It’s worth noting, however, that Whitehorse Press is the publisher with the most books in this list. Check their website for new additions. Please note that a short (10 digit) ISBN generally means an old edition; the long (13 digit) ISBN is now the common number used.

You may be disappointed that I have not included images of the books. In

an ideal world I would have, but do remember that this is not an attempt to sell you books but just to make you aware of their existence in case you might like them. In many instances you can find pictures of the covers on the interwebs. Where you can’t, please use your imagination. I know you’ve got it.

I have not included marque histories, customizing books or how-to tomes.

They’re an entirely different subject which I may write about some other time. The volumes on Harley-Davidson alone would fill half a magazine, as

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would the BMW books.

Keep in mind that this is a collection from my bookshelves. If I seem to appear in too many of them, or to have met too many of the authors or whatever, that explains it. And just a quick plug for me: my part of ‘Motorcycle Touring’ (see below) is currently being serialized on MCNews, https://www.mcnews.com.au/ .

I commend it and the rest of the website highly, not that I get paid any more if more of you read it…

While we’re on the subject of remuneration: If I may editorialise a little, I’d like to point out that the quality of the writing and photography in motorcycle books (and indeed magazines, the few that are left) is amazingly high considering how little most authors and photographers get paid. Don’t criticise, send us money. The Bear

Motorcycling Adventures in Sri Lanka MICHAEL ROHAN SOURJAH ISBN 9789551723453

I’m leading with my friend Rohan’s latest

book because it’s just out. Also, I wrote the foreword and I appear in the book. If those are not enough reasons for leading with it, I don’t know what would be. Since Rohan is Sri Lankan by birth, he knows the island inside out and makes an excellent case for visiting it yourself. He even has a tour company to help you do that, info about which you will find at www.

SerendibMotorcyclingAdventures.com .

One Man Caravan ROBERT EDISON FULTON JR ISBN 9781884313059

This is the best around-the-world motorcycle ride book ever written. It’s also one of the first, dating back to the ‘30s. Fulton has the most amazing experiences, but it’s the way he deals with everything that really impresses.

I’ve heard of imperturbable New Englanders, and when I read this I found one. There are many editions of the book, as well as a film and, for all I know, an action comic. Get a copy and marvel at the world in those days, and the way a man could deal with it.

Purple Mountains – America From a Motorcycle NOTCH MIYAKE ISBN 1884313280

This bloke is enormously likeable, which makes the sometimes overwhelming details of his writing likeable too. His reports of conversations with people he meets are special and make you feel as if you’re listening to them yourself. An honest, unselfconscious look at America.

Alaska ist Ueberall UWE KRAUSS ISBN 9783000246227

Although this book is in German (the title means ‘Alaska is Everywhere’) it is essentially about the images. It was written, but mainly photographed, by my friend Uwe Krauss who, travelling on his KTM, has managed to pin down a lot of fascinating experiences all over the world with his photos. You don’t need to read German to understand what he’s saying.

The Devil Can Ride ED. LEE KLANCHER ISBN 9780760334775

Subtitled ‘The World’s Best Motorcycle Writing’, the book doesn’t much justify its title but does contain some good stories. One of them, about George Orwell’s motorcycle, was first published in BIKE Australia when I was editing it but is credited to some website or other… forgive me, but this annoyed me at the time and annoys me yet. There are, however, some good stories in here. I hope the other authors got paid.

Vintage Morris LESTER MORRIS ISBN 9780646962337

If you’re Australian, there is a good chance that you know the name Lester South Australia

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T R AV E L

Morris and you may even have read one or more of these hilarious stories from the postwar ‘good old days’ of motorcycling before. Lester has a way of making the most pedestrian occurrences highly amusing. I wrote the introduction to this and stand by every bit of praise I lavished upon Lester! Get it from the web and look out for his subsequent books.

5000 kilometres on an old two-stroke Minsk. In this book he captures a Vietnam that is at once ominous and familiar – I was there three years ago and have seen the changes. The place is no longer frightening, but it’s also lost a lot of the depth that he finds and writes about skillfully.

Motorcycle Touring

CHE GUEVARA ISBN 1857023994

PETER ‘THE BEAR’ THOEMING AND PETER RAE ISBN 0850454360

Ah well, now, not only did I write much of this (Peter partly covered Europe, I did the rest of the world) but there’s a photo of Mrs Bear on the cover, so what can I do but commend this tome to you? My part of it covers my mate Charlie’s and my ride around the world on Honda XL250s in the late ‘70s and Mrs Bear’s and my ride through Europe, North Africa and Turkey on a Yamaha XS1100 a little later. I like to think that my copy and photos are mildly amusing and equally mildly useful. It’s out of print, but you’ll find second-hand copies on the web.

Long Rider MARK ‘TIGER’ EDMONDS ISBN 0942979516

Hmm, I sort of have to be in the mood to read this one. Ol’ Tiger is an English teacher, it seems. He writes as if he’s trying to be a biker, though.

He’s covered a million miles around the States, so he’s certainly entitled to tell his story.

Sparring with Charlie CHRISTOPHER HUNT ISBN 0553505521

Respect. Christopher Hunt went to Vietnam to explore the Ho Chi Minh Train and ended up covering

The Motorcycle Diaries

Of course you know about Che the revolutionary. This is Che the larrikin on a six month motorcycle trip as the groundwork for his revolutionary fervor is laid. Halfway through the book, he and his travelling companion Alberto decide that “our vocation, our true vocation, was to roam the highways and waterways of he world forever.” Maybe if he’d stuck to that… at any rate, whatever your politics this is a captivating read.

No Thru Road CLEMENT SALVADORI ISBN 9780990645900

Same author, same subject (sort of), totally different approach. Clem has travelled the world in ways that we can only imagine (and sometimes we can’t even do that) and those journeys fill this book. It ranges from Afghanistan to Rajasthan, from Tanzania to Texas and Tibet and... well, this could get boring which the book never does. Travel with him. It’s quite a trip.

The Road Gets Better from Here ADRIAN SCOTT FONTAINE PRESS, NO ISBN

Stories that involve disasters are always worth reading, and what cold possibly lead to more disasters than a complete novice riding a motorcycle across Russia, including the infamous Road of Bones?

101 Road Tales CLEMENT SALVADORI ISBN 9781884313738

Clem has been a friend for forty years, and although we might not see each other for a decade we always pick up where we left off – with stories of motorcycling. This book is a collection of his work from Rider magazine and is funny, wise, thoughtful and occasionally ridiculous.

Always funny. I commend it to you, especially since after reading it you will have something else to worry about, namely what happens to all that ‘rubber’ that wears off your tyres.

Tires.

Queensland

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Adrian Scott faces all of the disasters you could possibly imagine short of permanent death, and copes as well as writing about them, and the wonders he sees, in a highly approachable and entirely unpretentious way.

This is the next best thing to doing it yourself, and you don’t need to get dirty.

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance ROBERT M PIRSIG ISBN 0099786400

There really isn’t much I can add to the many words that have been written about this book. It is and it isn’t about motorcycling, it is and it isn’t about maintenance. It is very much about Robert Pirsig’s dedication to quality in its many forms. In a way it’s like Stephen Hawking’s Short History of Time; more people talk about it than have read it. You will love it or hate it, but first you’ve got to read it.

NEW! Puncture Repair Kit

Twisting Throttle Australia MIKE HYDE ISBN 186950660X

Mike Hyde is a pretty typical Kiwi, and he describes his adventures laconically and well. And very humorously.

Another of his books, Twisting Throttle New Zealand, is listed under the Guides section; for this one, Mike has abandoned the seriousness of a guide and taken on the demeanor of an on-road jester, with great success. Read both books and mourn his lost glove with him. Goodbye, glovey!

Two Wheels through Terror GLEN HEGGSTAD ISBN1884313493

An ex-Hells Angel and a martial arts expert, Glen Heggstad is a pretty tough nut. That’s just as well, because on a fairly standard ride down the length of Central and South America he is captured and held for ransom by Colombia’s ELN terrorists. These blokes are a terrorist’s terrorists and the book is a harrowing read. But he does get to Tierra del Fuego.

This kit contains our award winning MotoPressor Puncture Repair Tool, 5 pre-glued vulcanized repair strings, an inflation tool and 3 x 16g CO2 canisters and a neoprene bag. The bag with its contents, will take up a small amount of room in your pannier or pocket and the kit is all you will need to get you out of trouble if you get a puncture.

OZ – Around Australia on a Triumph

The size of the bag containing the kit is only 13.5cm wide x 10.5cm high x 4cm depth and weighs just 582g.

GEOFF HILL & COLIN O’CARROLL ISBN9780856408571

Available from Rocky Creek Designs or all good motorcycle stores through Pro-Accessories

On two Triumphs, to be precise, but what the hell, the rest of the book isn’t. It’s a combination of misconceptions

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T R AV E L Croatia

Dreaming of Jupiter TED SIMON ISBN 9780349119601

about Australia and a batch of randomlyassembled facts. Hill and O’Carroll tell the story in alternating snippets which could be a recipe for disaster but (thanks to a good editor, I suspect), works. On the back cover, Colin Bateman (whoever he is) says that “It makes Ewan and Charley look like George and Mildred,” and he’s not entirely wrong.

Did you know that the club responsible for the Hollister CA dust-up immortalized in The Wild One was the Boozefighters Motorcycle Club?

This book details the sometimes incredible but, I suspect, almost true life and times of the Boozefighters.

This is the real thing, folks. Read it and weep. With laughter, and with regret that you weren’t there.

Mondo Enduro

Jupiter’s Travels

ED. AUSTIN VINCE ISBN 9781884313646

TED SIMON ISBN 9780965478526

The Mondo Enduro riders who tackled the around-the-world ride detailed in these pages had more personnel changes than the Benny Goodman orchestra. They were constantly cash strapped, which means that they found some world-standard squalor which, to be fair, they detail unblinkingly. It is tempting to write that this is a stupid book written by stupid people, so I will. I loved it, and dip into it every now and then whenever I find myself how rough the world really is.

Back in 1980, I was riding my Honda XL250 down the west coast of the US, nearing the end of my around-the-world trip. The bike was seriously thinking about killing me but then decided to simply not start; in one small coastal town I called out the entire emergency department – the Sheriff, the Fire Chief and the ambulance driver – to push until the bastard finally turned over. I remember that because I had just rung Ted Simon to introduce myself, and had found a man on the other end of the line who had just welcomed his first child into the world and was in no state to discuss anything else. The book is far too well known for me to add anything to its tale.

The Original Wild Ones BILL HAYES ISBN 9780760321935

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I finally met Ted Simon at my friend David McGonigal’s house during the reprise of his original trip that’s described in this book. No, I don’t get a mention but several of my friends do. This is a more considered, more measured and more cynical book and in some ways it is the better of the two. Let’s just say that if you’ve read Jupiter’s Travels you owe it to yourself to read this. And if you haven’t, well, what can I say?

Riding High TED SIMON ISBN0965478513

This is the story behind the story of the two books above, and I would have bought it and read it for no other reason than that it told me that disposable paper toilet seat covers in California used to be known as “Nixon party hats”.

Ted Simon is like that; he’ll go all serious and analytical on you and then suddenly he descends to toilet humour, with telling effect. He’s always good value.

Ride Like Hell and You’ll Get There PAUL CARTER ISBN 9781743312766

John Birmingham, who appears to be some kind of writer, reckons that this is “Great two fisted writing from the far side of hell.” Among other things he rides a bike fueled by bio-diesel around Australia, and while that doesn’t quite reach the other side of hell – in fact, doesn’t get far past heck – it is a neat story.

Indeed, Paul Carter is a far better writer than he pretends to be. This is not a bad book at all.

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Motorcycling Adventures MICHAEL ROHAN SOURJAH ISBN 9781922118790

It’s very difficult to categorise Rohan.

He’s famous back in Sri Lanka as a rugby player and the rugby player comes out quite a few times in this book, especially in connection with beer. To talk to him, though, he is still the polite, well-educated Sri Lankan gent who takes great trouble to understand everything and describe it accurately. If you’ve ever wondered what Australia looks like to someone who has a different background from yours (unless you’re a Sri Lankan rugby player), this book will give you some priceless insights.

Motorcycling in Australia PETER “THE BEAR” THOEMING ISBN 0958697523

The book is actually called

“Everything you didn’t even know you didn’t know about Motorcycling in Australia” and that’s what I attempted to cover, as well as some of the things you knew you didn’t know. The book is getting old now, but it still has a remarkable number of useful snippets of information in it. I described it as a resource book, and that’s exactly what it is. Where else will you find Lenny Lower’s perspicacious observation that Australia is “a place where they whip the cream with stockwhips and where men ride 1800 miles for a permanent wave”?

the skin of my teeth and I’d never been there, but readers confirmed Xantippe’s existence as an empty concrete water tank containing the biggest and ugliest spider they’d ever seen. And that was in Australia, where big and ugly spiders gather every day.

Some wonderful destinations, and many you’d never think of. That’s my opinion, anyway.

On the Road Again

I just love this book. Indeed, I love it enough so that I re-published it when it was out of print, and wrote a foreword. Jack and his mate Frank were out of work so they bought a Harley, crafted a sidecar for it and took off around Australia – the first people to do so. They lived on boiled dough and whatever they could shoot, did some mapping for the government

PETER “THE BEAR” THOEMING ISBN 0958697531

One motorcycle destination a week for an entire year in Australia, from A to Z. That was the target I set myself when I began to research this book.

I only found an ‘X’ destination by

Around Australia the Hard Way in 1929 JACK L BOWERS ISBN 0958697574

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t r av e l

and generally demonstrated the Australian ability to get through anything – and be modest about it.

This is a wonderful book if you’re Australian, and not a bad book if you’re not. Out of print, but the interwebs are your friend.

The Perils of Motorcycling Alanna Gayko ISBN 9780646519333

Books dedicated to the eradication of one disease (in this case, Batten Disease) or another can be a bit of a drag, but five-foot tall Alanna Gayko has produced a wonderful, warm-hearted and staggeringly honest book about her nursing and motorcycling life. I fell in love with Alanna while reading this book; if you’re even remotely interested in what motorcycling in Australia was really like from the ‘70s to the Noughties, this is where you’ll find out.

Three Harleys, Three Aussies, One American Dream Stephen W Starling ISBN 9780987055224

On rented Harleys with his mates Peter and Jim, Stephen rides from LA to Sturgis and back. Along the way you get a lot of thoughtful commentary and observation, and the book manages to pass on the huge enthusiasm and pleasure the three had and found for the trip.

The book is told in alternating segments from the tow of them, which makes for interesting reading. They rode from Greece to Vladivostok, and this is one book that makes me want to do the same thing.

Bonneville – Go or Bust Zoe Cano ISBN 9781890623432

The Long Way to Vladivostok

She’s an easy person to like, at least partly because Zoe doesn’t judge people much and just enjoys her travels. The trip across America to the salt flats is interesting and informative, but above all enjoyable. Zoe is one of the people with whom I’d be delighted to travel myself.

Shirley Hardy-Rix & Brian Rix ISBN 9780646953731

Elephant’s Tale

Shirley and Brian are, or should be, household names in the adventure travel community. They have done a lot of touring in, to put it mildly, problematic places and have always come up trumps.

Mike Hannan ISBN 9781742572512

If there was a qualification called the “I’ve been everywhere” medal then Mike

TOUR NEW ZEALAND on your own bike

*Prices correct at time of publication.

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and Jo Hannan would be deserving recipients. Their journey on Elephant, the 1150 GS, takes them from London to Vladivostok, but they really do seem to call in everywhere – and not only on the way but everywhere you can think of, like North Africa. And they discover that the end of civilization usually marked by the fall of the Roman Empire was in fact due to the closure of the Plumber’s Guild…

Crossing America DICK PECK ISBN 0972419802

It was Eccles on the Goon Show who pointed out that you learn something every day, and Dick Peck confirmed that for me. In this book he points out that motorcyclists should look for restrooms with baby changing tables, because that way you have somewhere to put your helmet, jacket and gloves.

Why didn’t I ever think of that? This is not so much a travel book as a long list

It rambles through the activity of the title and more, including a version of this list of books. It will fit into the smallest pocket and will drive away boredom if you’re stuck somewhere.

of advice, and that can be useful. For me, it was a bit too much – except for the restroom thing!

Under Asian Skies

Revised I-94 Reader

SAM MANICOM ISBN 9780955657306

RAND RASMUSSEN ISBN 9780981900131

This is Sam’s second book after ‘Into Africa’ – I have a copy but then again I don’t, because I lent it to someone.

His writing is a pleasure to read, he has genuine adventures, in other words he doesn’t look for them, but they come to him. Good reading and pretty much a love ode to Asia.

Anecdotes from the road in a small $10 book(let, really) from Aerostich.

I’m not sure what the point of the book is, really, but it’s quite fun to read. Just a bloke ruminating about riding and bikes, mainly.

Lightweight Unsupported Motorcycle Travel for Terminal Cases

Zero Below Zero VARIOUS WRITERS ISBN 9780975480250

ANDY GOLDFINE ET AL ISBN 0975480219

Aerostich borrowed an electric bike from Zero for a winter and rode it in Duluth, Minnesota. The choice of half

Love this teeny book from Aerostich.

Motorcycle shipping to Europe and back!

1

2

3

FELIXSTOWE Shipments to Felixstowe twice every year.

ATHENS Shipments to Athens every year.

1

BARCELONA Shipments to Barcelona every year.

All shipments to Felixstowe, Barcelona and Athens are loaded in Felixstowe for the return shipping to Australia.

Organise your next Mediterranean or European bike shipment with Dave at Get Routed...

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Your bike is our priority.

All enquiries to: dave@getrouted.com.au or call: 03 5625 9080 www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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T R AV E L

a dozen different riders and writers makes this little book surprisingly interesting. And remember – electric bikes are the future. Unless they short out.

The final Aerostich book/let has a title that is a little misleading. It is a valedictory for a friend of the Aerostich crew and a remarkable long distance rider. Nice stories about a nice bloke.

The Old Rider’s Almanac

GUIDES

PAT HAHN ISBN 9780975480212

As travel guides, the following books are almost all rather similar. They all do their job of helping you to navigate and enjoy their subject territory well and I’m happy to recommend them all. I’ve only added my own commentary where there is something unusual about the book.

Another one of Aerostich’s little $10 books, this one sub-headed ‘Legal Matters in All 50 States’ and pretty useful, if perhaps occasionally over the top. I read it before I ventured out on American roads most recently and found it useful.

There’s Absolutely No Excuse for the Way I’m About to Act BY/ABOUT JOHN RYAN ISBN9780975480236

The Adventurous Motorcyclist’s Guide to Alaska LEE KLANCHER / PHIL FREEMAN ISBN 9780982913123

Phil Freeman is the bloke who

started and runs tour company MotoQuest, and I suspect he knows Alaska from the saddle of a motorcycle better than almost anyone else alive. Nice photos and a thoughtful layout.

Twisting Throttle New Zealand MIKE HYDE ISBN 9781869509781

Mike got funnier as he went along, so this, his first book, is stronger on information than humour. But it’s good.

Great American Motorcycle Tours GARY MCKECHNIE ISBN 9781598803648

More than two dozen rides, described meticulously.

California

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Europe by Motorcycle

ISBN 9781884313615

Dr Gregory W Frazier ISBN 0935151494

All the ‘Motorcycle Journeys’ books are well produced with colour illustration and detailed guides.

The book is aimed at Americans but it’s comprehensive advice is useful to others too.

Australia – Motorcycle Atlas Peter “The Bear” Thoeming ISBN 9781865006514

What can I say? The atlas consists of two books (maps and descriptions) and a wall map and includes 126 rides plus general information. Invaluable for anyone tackling Australia on a motorcycle (and, so I’m informed, a camper van) even if I do say so myself.

New Zealand – Motorcycle Atlas Peter Mitchell ISBN 9781877302329

Motorcycle Journeys through Texas and Northern Mexico Neal & Sandy Davis ISBN 9781884313783

Motorcycle Journeys through Texas Neal Davis ISBN 1884313442

Motorcycle Journeys through New England Marty Berke ISBN 1884313450

Motorcycle Journeys through the Pacific Northwest

Only a hundred rides in this book from the same series as mine, but then Unzud Bruce Hansen is smaller than Australia. Peter has a ISBN 1884313531 wealth of information to pass on.

Motorcycle Journeys through Motorcycle Journeys California and Baja through the Appalachians Clement Salvadori ISBN 9781884313608

Even if Clem wasn’t a friend I would recommend this book highly. I’ve used it, and if I had paid more attention to it, I would have enjoyed my ride through Baja a lot more. Good value if you’re smart enough to read it.

It’s comprehensive and written with genuine empathy.

Dale Coyner ISBN 1884313485

Motorcycle Journeys through the Rocky Mountains Toby Ballentine ISBN 9781884313585

Motorcycle Journeys Motorcycle Journeys through through the Southwest the American South Scott Cochran

Martin C Berke ISBN 9781884313660

Motorcycle Journeys through North America Dale Coyner ISBN 9781884313936

Ride Guide to America Ed. Greg Harrison ISBN 1884313515

These two volumes are essentially collections of the best from the ‘Motorcycle Journeys’ books.

Ride Guide to America Vol 2 Various writers ISBN 9781884313790

The Complete Guide to Motorcycling Colorado Steve Farson ISBN 9781884313929

The same style as the books above, but limited to Colorado.

I get the4 feeling you could spend the rest of your life just riding the trips it contains. It does full justice to a wonderful motorcycling State.

Motorcycle Vagabonding in Japan Guy de la Rupelle ISBN 1884313167

Also in the same series as the guides above, but with black and whiter rather than colour images. Otherwise it contains more in the ay of riding stories, which are guides at the same time. This is the book that get me started planning a trip to Japan myself. D

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TRAVEL

Company GOOD

Thinking of buying a bike in the US? Here’s a cool way to do it.

H

AVE YOU EVER thought about buying a motorcycle in the US? It might be because you can get the most remarkable bargains (as I did) or because you want something to ride while you’re over there for an extended period and renting just gets too expensive?

Possibly both – imagine finding exactly the Harley you’ve always wanted, and heading off along Route 66 on it.

A bloke called Matt Copenhaver from a company called visitor.us tells me that he can help you do that, with an absolute minimum of hassles. See https://www.google.com/ search?q=visitor.us or read on. I’ve abbreviated his description of the process for you here.

“Buying a car in America is easy.

Registering and insuring it is harder.

Especially if you're just visiting. Only residents can register and insure vehicles in America. Here's the solution: a company. Companies are residents of the US, so a company you own can register a car and take out insurance.

“And guess what? You don't need to be a US citizen (or even a resident) to own a company. Here's how our service works. We form a Montana Limited Liability Company (LLC) for you, ready in about one business day.

You own the company, 100%. Your company buys your car. We register the car in your company's name. That’s it.”

Want more detail? Here we go.

“We will forward your company’s Articles of Organization, which list you as the sole owner of the LLC. You find your dream vehicle and purchase it using your LLC name and address as the buyer. You pay the seller directly we’re happy to hop on the phone with the seller and facilitate, if necessary.

You will sign a Power

of Attorney, authorizing visitor.us to register the vehicle in your LLC’s name.

We’ll send you a Power of Attorney to print and take to a notary or Justice of the Peace, who will witness your signature. We need the original document, so we’ll ask you to post it to us, on our account.

“The Title is the ownership document for vehicles in the United States. The seller will need to sign and send this document to visitor.us (we’ll cover postage). With the Title and POA in hand, we head to the Department of Motor Vehicles and register your vehicle. We receive license plates and a registration document immediately.

Now visitor.us overnights the plates and registration document to the seller (or another place of your choosing).

“We arrange insurance that covers you and your LLC. This insurance is valid in all 50 states and Canada.

“With license plates on the vehicle and registration and insurance documents in hand, you’re ready to hit the road! Two to three weeks after registration, the Department of Motor Vehicles issues a new Title, which lists you and your company as owners of the vehicle. You don’t need this document to drive, but you will need it to sell or export your vehicle. As soon as we receive your title, we will post it to you, wherever you are on the road.

Almost sounds too good to be true, especially when you see that the whole thing costs you all of US$1000. A grand to remove all the hassles – and presumably you can use your company Want to ride the US the to buy more vehicles if you want to. easy way? This might I’m tempted by this myself. PT D just be your answer!

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Special Feature

TOUR OPERATOR DIRECTORY The guide to the stars - The who’s who in the zoo of motorcycle travel worldwide is what you’ll find here. These companies want to make your motorcycle travel the best it can be. We’ve travelled with many of them and know them all, so they come highly recommended. In alphabetical order, they are:

ASIAN EXPERIENCE MOTORBIKE TOURS - Asia www.asianexperience.com.au tours@asianexperience.com.au ADRIATIC MOTO TOURS Europe & Asia www.adriaticmototours.com info@adriaticmototours.com AUSSIE BIKE OR HIRE India and Australia info@aussiebikeorhike.com www.aussiebikeorhike.com 0408692990 BEACH’S MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES - Italy, Hungary, Romania, Slovakia, Isle of Man, Croatia, Switzerland, Germany and Austria tours@bmca.com www.bmca.com

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IMTBIKE TOURS & RENTALS BLUE STRADA MOTORCYCLE - Spain, Portugal, Morocco, TOURS – North Carolina USA Europe and Thailand www.bluestradatours.com www.imtbike.com billk@bluestradatours.com tours@imtbike.com CENTRAL OTAGO MOTORCYCLE HIRE AND TOURS – New Zealand www.comotorcyclehire.co.nz Info@comotorcyclehire.co.nz

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MAVERIK MOTORCYCLE TOURS Italy & Austria www.maverik.com.au 1300 661 772 sandro@maverik.com.au

MOTORRAD TOURS Worldwide office@motorrad-tours.com. www.motorrad-tours.com PARADISE MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand & European Alps www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz RIDE THE WORLD - Australia, India, South Africa, Vietnam, USA Adventure rides out of Las Vegas www.ridetheworld.com.au david@ridetheworld.com.au SERENDIB MOTORCYCLING ADVENTURES – Sri Lanka www.SerendibMotorcycling Adventures.com info@SerendibMotorcycling Adventures.com SOUTH PACIFIC MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand www.motorbiketours.co.nz office@motorbiketours.co.nz WORLD ON WHEELS - Europe, Iceland, South America, India, Asia, Mexico, Africa & Himalaya www.worldonwheels.tours Adventure@WorldOnWheels.Tours

4/9/19 1:09 pm

USED&ABUSED

LADY LOVE HJC RPHA-11 SCONA PRICE - $649.90

M

ANY APPAREL manufacturers have woken up over the last few years to the increasing number of women riding motorcycles, and the need for more tasteful gear not designed for just males. HJC has aimed its rangetopping RPHA-11 helmet at this market, offering it in a beautiful dark blue with white and pink highlights.

The pink is much brighter than any photo can show and when my better half took it out of the box, she was over the moon with how great it

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looks. In fact she said it is the best looking helmet she’s seen! (insert: brownie points for me. LOL!).

The RPHA-11, being a top-level helmet, is packed with features. It is remarkably light thanks to an integrated “Matrix Plus(PIM+)” shell which includes carbon fibre, aramid, fiberglass and organic nonwoven fabric. The shell design is also very aerodynamic which my better half tells me is very comfortable at all speeds and doesn’t produce any strain on the neck at speed.

Ventilation is the next area which stands out. In a lot of helmets, the airflow is hard to feel despite massive openings. With this one, the flow of air through the large chin and top

vents channels air streams around the helmet which can be felt. HJC call it “ACS”, Advanced Channeling Ventilation System. The vents are easy to open/close as well, thanks to a thoughtful rubber trim on each vent that gives a good tactile feel.

Comfort is excellent; my better half did say the helmet was rather snug the first time she put it on, but you expect this with a top-level helmet.

After a couple of wears she was used to a perfectly fitting helmet. For her too, the eyewear friendly special channels built into the EPS liner are perfect with her glasses sitting exactly where they should. The removable and washable Multicool liner adds to the comfort level – you

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can also get different thickness pads if the fit isn’t 101%, a great option to have. Speakers can be fitted into the ready-recessed areas in the shell for communication or music.

My better half opted for the dark smoke visor but if you’re riding at night, swapping to a clear visor is a matter of seconds thanks to the “RapidFire II Shield Replacement System” – very simple and easy to use for anyone. The ‘eye port’ also offers great vision.

For safety, in case I stuff things up and we are sliding down the road, the RPHA-11 has emergency kit (Cheek Pads) so ambulance personnel can safely remove the helmet. I’m sure if I did make us crash she’ll be more concerned with getting a blunt knife and teaching me a lesson. LOL! The HJC RPHA-11 is not only available in this blue/white/pink version but also in many plain and graphic styles. It’s priced at a very reasonable $649.90, and considering the level of features you could end up paying near double that to get the same features/comfort/safety.

Check one out at your local bike shop or for the full range, visit www.mcleodaccessories.com.au SW GOLDILOCKS BAG SW Motech REAR BAG ION M Price - $249.00 Since the late 1970s, when Jack Burger sewed some black material together into a boxy bag in his factory in Melbourne’s eastern suburbs and called it a Gearsack, the range of seat/rack bags for motorcycles has grown explosively.

You could probably find every conceivable variation on Jack’s old bags, just checking the interwebs. That’s good, of course. Or is it?

It would be good if all of the suppliers

were reputable people. Some of them have absolutely impeccable credentials; take Ventura in New Zealand. I’ve known owner Paul Dold for longer than many of you have been alive, and I’d trust him unquestioningly. There are fly-bynight operators in this business, though. It pays to check the provenance of the manufacturer.

One company that also has an outstanding reputation is German

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used & abused

manufacturer SW-Motech, and when I found myself looking for a particular type of bag recently, one of theirs came up trumps. Oops.

Came up, er, tops. What I wanted was a water resistant bag that would hold and protect my camera bag plus some other stuff but would still be small enough to serve as carry-on luggage for flights, and that would strap securely onto the back of a bike, either on the seat or a rack. It also had to be easily accessible. Their middle-sized ION M Rear Bag was exactly what I wanted.

The curved non-slip bottom means that the bag stays on the pillion seat and also on a variety of racks, held in place by a selection of straps. The main 26L storage compartment holds my camera case with space on both sides for things like spare gloves, and

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the two expandable 5L pockets on either side hold stuff like lock and chain, sunscreen and even some tools. The reinforced sides prevent the bag from flapping. The mesh compartment in the lid holds maps – handy for a troglodyte like me who distrusts GPS. For onroad safety, the bag comes with reflective details which are barely visible by day, but add security when riding at night.

An integrated carry handle and shoulder strap mean that I can lug the ION tail bag onto a plane easily and comfortably. The bag weighs a kilo and a half, and measures 30 x 30 x either 44 or 54cm.

I tried the bag out for the first time on my recent trip through NW Canada. When I stopped somewhere for the night, I just

unclipped the bag and took it into my room. My cameras were always secure. One small annoyance is that the four straps that hold the bag in place stay on the bike, not on the bag when you take it off. That means you need to secure them separately if you’re going to ride without the bag (such as to dinner), or if you’re paranoid about having them stolen off the parked bike overnight. Not a major concern.

The SW-Motech ION M bag looks like giving me years of service, and I hope it does because I’ve rarely had such a convenient piece of luggage. Australian importer Motorrad Garage has shops at 1/108 Welshpool Road, Welshpool WA 6106 and 53 Parramatta Road, Lidcombe NSW 2141, or see https://sw-motech.com . PT D

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PART 8

1976

reStO

KaWasakI Z900 A4

Cookin’ up a storm WORDS/PHOTOS sTuaRT

F

roM The PreVIoUs issue I made time to head to D Moto Motorcycle Engineering and fit up the replacement third gear I received from a friend in the Netherlands. The gearbox now spins perfectly and it was time to put the engine all together.

This took half a day and after a refreshing lunch, Shaun and I fitted the bottom end into the frame, covering the beautiful black tubes with some blankets and sorting out which new

bolt, nut and washer went where.

This was a rather easy process, and although I thought it was going to result in scratched tubing, we got the engine in perfectly and then it was time to slip the head on, torque it down onto the bottom end and now came the fun of setting the timing.

I bolted the cams in and Shaun counted how many teeth needed to be spaced for the correct timing. This can be a pain with these engines, apparently,

but Shaun had no problems. Maybe that beer at lunch was just the thing? LOL! Once all set up I bolted on the cam cover and covered up the engine with a blanket. It’s going to be a little while before it finally fires into life so I want to protect it as best I can.

The next main project to be completed is restoring the carburettors and the airbox. I dare say this is going to take a while so in the meantime I’ve fitted up the front sprocket,

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R e S T o : Pa R T 8

new O-ring chain (in the correct 630 sizing), headlight, indicators, kickstarter and drum brake stabilising rod (date stamped of course).

I’ve also started fitting up all the wiring. You can buy all of it brand new (which I have done) but sorting it all out is the ‘fun’ part. I hate all that spaghetti stuff that’s required to make a bike go but without it the bike would be a garden ornament.

Not sure where I’ll be at for the next issue, those carbies are playing on my mind but I’ll dive in and see where I end up before deadline. Cross your fingers for me! D

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1 YEAR (12 ISSUES) $99.95 (2 FREE ISSUES) 2 YEARS (24 ISSUES) $189.95 (5 FREE ISSUES) To subscribe to Australian Motorcyclist please visit our website www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au / email us at contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

OR fill out these details and mail them to us:

o12 Month Subscription - $99.95 o 24 Month Subscription - $189.95 Name _______________________Phone Number ____________________________ Address _________________________________________________________________ Contact Email Address __________________________________________________ Card Number:

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*Terms and Conditions. This promotion commences at 12.00am (AEST) Thursday 17 October, 2019 and closes at 11.59pm (AEST) on Wednesday 13 November, 2019 (“Promotional Period”). The judging will take place at the Promoter’s premises, Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW. The winner will be drawn by the Editor of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine on Thursday 14 November and will be notified by telephone or email. One entry per person will be permitted during the promotional period. The winner will be drawn at random.

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WHATSAYYOU

W

E LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066.

All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity.

LETTER OF THE MONTH

T

his month’s winner gives it to you as an owner of an old and new Katana. I quite like his take on both. For that reason, Stuart, you’ve won the awesome Nelson-Rigg t-shirt and backpack.

Send me your t-shirt size and postal address, mate.

Cheers, Stuart.

STRAIGHT FROM THE HORSES MOUTH

Being a long time reader of the mag, sorry to say this is my first editor letter.

I particularly enjoyed Stuart W’s “Kinda Retro” review of the 2020Katana, having A: owned an ‘82 750 back in the day and currently a fully restored ‘82 750, and B: an August release 2020.

From a devout Katana lover’s perspective, there is nothing that has or will replace the Original (definition of ‘original’ is debatable) GSX-1100SZ, GSX-1000SZ or the GSX-750S or later GSX-1100SE. But I was never looking for a replacement, but the next bike that I would love at a similar level.

For me that is the 2020. Not a redesigned version of the original,

106

not a retro fuelled (no more, no less) but they wannabe, could have been making sure I not samewas good to go whilst topping up same with themselves also.

Newport. Most range I attained was 236k’s But (McGraths to Muswellbrook) something where I took on 11.70L and guess similar, I had 10 kilometres more range but to spitting. That was detailed as different!

19.9K/l and after that the rate When I ride dropped to 17.7K/l, but that may the 2020 it has have been attributed to screwing me missing the the right hand a little more in 1982 so much, but competition with the mob! when I get on the 82’ I remember In short, I love the original! Love what it is that I love about whilst also the 2020! And at my vintage, at wondering “why are my knees so close 2hrs or 200k + in the saddle I’m to my chest” and “damn, my hands ready for petrol, a pie and a pee! feel strange at this angle”.

Regards, Stuart Bell I don’t mind admitting after 5 weeks and more than 2k on the 2020 it took Hi Stuart, Glad to hear your view on both 10 mins to get out of my estate due machines. I really do regret selling my to everything feeling “strange” on the ‘82. But it took little road time restored 1100SE. I’d love to see the new ‘Katana’ in the old SE colours of to sit deep into the Kat seat and get comfortable (if you’ve never owned a either the burgundy or metallic blue Kat, you’ll never truly know).

- now that would look good! I have seen Only clarification I would make to pictures of a new ‘Katana’ in Japan your review… after a first weekend with a traditional rear guard and it makes a massive difference to the test ride the first big test was overall look. attending the annual Suzuki Katana Also, good to hear about your decent State of Origin meet at Nambucca fuel economy.

Heads on NSW north coast (a.k.a – ‘SoO’). This is a great get together Enjoy your bikes, mate. of Kat lovers and owners from Cheers, Stuart.

QLD, NSW and even attended by Katana friends from WA. The trip started at McGraths Hill in very low temp 4C in the company on five other circa ‘80 Katanas. The ride was via the Putty to Muswellbrook, then Tamworth, the Oxley, Walcha, Wauchope and finally Nambucca.

I fuelled when they

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ELECTRIC SPARK

Boris and Stuart, I was reading Boris’ piece in issue #80 ‘bout electric bikes. I think he’s on the money, I don’t see anyone buying a 40k plus electric bike to ride around. I do, however see people riding electric bikes in the city and close surrounds if they were priced below, say, 6k, even that might be a stretch?

I do also wonder if motorcycling is being lost as an enjoyable thing to do and becoming just a mode of transport like a car? Maybe Boris has a comment on that?

Regards, John Short THE BEST

AMM crew, Hi guys, I just wanted to say this is the best magazine going around. You cover everything well to cater for many tastes. Keep up the great work.

P.S Do I win the t-shirt now?

Thanks, Simon Tooley Hi Simon, LOL! Good try, but maybe next time, mate. Keep writing – and maybe a little more, and you never know.

Cheers, Stuart.

SHOWTIME?

Gents, I have noticed the motorcycle show that alternated between Sydney and Melbourne seems to be no more? I see it is now some kind of thing at a football field. Correct me if I’m wrong on this point but I really don’t see this as a crowd drawing exercise for motorcycling, especially if it rains.

Regards, Jackson Hi Jackson, Yes, the new ‘show’ is being called a Festival. There will be new bikes, displays, racing and all sorts of activities going on.

It will be interesting to see how it goes.

Cheers, Stuart.

NEW AGE SPACEMAN

G’day lads, I laughed my heart out looking at the

picture of Ralph in his Aerostitch suit.

I always thought spacemen had short hair, not hair like some wild rocker from the ‘70s! All-in-all though I was quite interested in reading about a suit I’ve always wondered about. It is also interesting to note that Ralph said it gets better the more he wears it – I’ve only ever known of people with an Aerostitch suit that’s stiff as a board.

Maybe they didn’t wear them enough to loosen it up? Can Ralph also give us an update as the months progress about the suit as I’m very keen on possibly getting one (in black).

Thanks, Colin Simpson

BLACK AND ROUND

Hi Stu, I’m wondering if you’ve tried a set of those new Pirelli Angel GT II’s? I’m up for a set of new tyres on my GTR1400 and thinking the new Angel could be a good tyre.

Cheers, James

THANKS

Gents, Thank you for making your adventure issue not an entire issue of adventure stuff. I have written to you in the past stating I didn’t like you’d basically dedicated an entire magazine to just adventure bikes. I know that scene is supposedly big but I’m sure I’m not the only one to be thinking it was a little too much. Anyway, thanks for trimming it up.

Regards, Ryan

Hi James, Funny you ask if I’ve tried the new GT II, we have a set to put on our long term Z900RS and hopefully will have the review for you by next month. Cross your

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W H AT S AY Y O U

fingers and toes and I will too!

Cheers, Stuart.

GIVE ME FOOD…LOTS OF FOOD

G’day Stuart, I agree with you about the uber eats blokes on their scooters and small bikes. I was at a set of lights other day and saw this kid fall off his little Honda after the chain came off. He was okay bar a couple of scratches and I helped him get back on his way but the chain was so worn out it was ridiculous. Lucky I had some tools in the boot of my car and I tightened it up the best I could. Crazy stuff.

Regards, Shane.

DONE IT

Stuart, Firstly, thanks for a great mag. I reckon Aus Motorcyclist is the best mag in this country. I just wanted to say I’ve done the route you had for the last map (Issue #80: Great Dividing Range). It offers a lot for just about

every adventure rider and talent. I’ve also stayed at McAdams Gap as you did with a bunch of mates. The bullshit that got thrown around those big old boilers made for a memorable night. We weren’t lucky enough to have snow but I can only imagine how spectacular it would be up there. I highly recommend to all of your

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readers they should plan to go there.

Thanks, Chris Stanway Hi Chris, Yeah, I really like McAdams Gap too. I have been there with the smallest of snow fall, but also would love to see it as a white out.

Cheers, Stuart. D

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ost prices exclude dealer and on road costs and some are ride away prices – ask your local dealer for the best possible price!

APRILIA

www.aprilia.com.au Road Shiver 900 ABS Dorsoduro 900 ABS Tuono V4 1100 RR Tuono V4 1100 Factory RSV4 1100 Factory Scooters SR MT 125 Scarabeo 200 ie

$15,190 $15,790 $22,490 $27,190 $33,990 $3390 $5190

BENELLI

www.benelli.com.au Road TnT 125 BN 302 402 S Imperiale Leoncino Leoncino Trail Leoncino Sport 752 S Adv Touring TRK 502 TRK 502 X

$3250 $5690 $TBA $TBA $7990 $8690 $TBA $TBA $7890 $8490

$13,590 $17,305 $13,840 $17,005 $17,990 $18,390 $22,305 $21,805 $18,240 $18,640 $21,505 $TBA $23,490 $24,940 $29,890 $28,140 $31,390 $25,490 $26,390 $31,590 $30,790 $30,540 $14,150 $14,990

CAN-AM (BRP) www.brp.com Spyder F3 Spyder F3-S Spyder F3-T Spyder F3 Limited Spyder RT Spyder RT Limited

$TBA $TBA $TBA $TBA $TBA $TBA

www.bmwmotorrad.com.au $5790 $12,990 $16,300 $19,390 $21,690 $21,990 $23,990 $25,690 $22,490 $17,690 $18,750 $19,150 $18,750 $21,240 $27,040 $26,065 $26,765 $22,540 $28,215 $27,215 $28,065 $32,290 $33,190 $33,465 $34,215 $36,490 $36,490 $36,990 $37,990 $40,490 $22,190 $8090

Road V-Night 150 Leader 150NK 250NK 650NK 650TK 650MT Cruiser V5 Scooter Jetmax 250

Panigale 959 Corse Monster 1200 Monster 1200 S Red Monster 1200 S Grey Monster 1200 R Red Diavel 1260 Diavel 1260 S X Diavel X Diavel S Black X Diavel S White Panigale V4 Panigale V4 S Panigale V4 S GP Panigale V4 Speciale Panigale V4 Speciale Magnesium Wheel Panigale V4 R Adv Touring MTS 950 Red MTS 950 S Red MTS 950 S Grey MTS 950 S Red Spokes MTS 950 S Grey Spokes MTS 1260 Red MTS 1260 S Red MTS 1260 S White/Grey MTS 1260 S T-Pack MTS 1260 S Pikes Peak MTS 1260 Enduro Red MTS 1260 Enduro Sand MTS 1260 Enduro Red T-Pack MTS 1260 Enduro Sand T-Pack

$25,990 $22,990 $26,990 $27,190 $30,190 $29,790 $34,890 $30,190 $35,490 $35,790 $31,390 $39,990 $42,790 $63,190 $68,190 $63,190 $20,990 $23,490 $23,790 $23,750 $23,990 $26,490 $31,190 $31,390 $33,190 $38,490 $31,990 $32,190 $34,690 $34,890

HARLEY-DAVIDSON

www.harley-davidson.com

* All Harley-Davidson prices are ride away

CF MOTO

www.cf-moto.com.au

BMW

Road G 310 R F 800 R F 800 GT S 1000 R S 1000 R Sport S 1000 RR S 1000 RR Sport S 1000 RR Race R nineT R nineT Pure R nineT Scrambler R nineT Racer R nineT Urban G/S R 1250 R R 1250 R HP R 1250 R Exclusive R 1250 R Spezial R 1250 R R 1250 RS Sport R 1250 RS Exclusive R 1250 R Spezial R 1250 RT R 1250 RT Sport R 1250 RT Elegance R 1250 R Spezial K 1600 B K 1600 GT K 1600 GT Sport K 1600 GTL K 1600 GTL Elegance Adv Sport S 1000 XR Adv Touring G 310 GS

F 750 GS F 750 GS Tour F 750 GS Low Susp F 750 GS Tour LS F 850 GS F 850 GS Rallye F 850 GS Rallye X F 850 GS Tour F 850 GS Low Susp F 850 GS Rallye Low Susp F 850 GS Tour Low Susp F 850 GSA R 1250 GS R 1250 GS Rallye R 1250 GS Rallye X R 1250 GS Exclusive R 1250 GS Spezial R 1250 GSA R 1250 GSA Rallye R 1250 GSA Rallye X R 1250 GSA Exclusive R 1250 GSA Spezial Scooter C 650 Sport C 650 GT

$2690 $2190 $3290 $3990 $6490 $7990 $7990 $3990 $4190

DUCATI

www.ducati.com.au

*All Ducati prices are ride away

Road Scrambler Sixty2 $13,490 Scrambler Icon $13,990 Scrambler Full Throttle $17,540 Scrambler Café Racer $18,990 Scrambler Desert Sled $19,290 Scrambler 1100 $16,990 Scrambler 1100 Special $18,990 Scrambler 1100 Sport $19,990 Monster 659 $12,490 Monster 797 $13,490 Monster 821 $17,500 Monster 821 Stealth $18,590 Hypermotard $20,790 Hypermotard SP $25,990 Supersport $17,790 Supersport S $20,250 Panigale 959 Red $22,490 Panigale 959 White $22,990

Cruiser Street 500 Street Rod SuperLow 883 Iron 883 Iron 1200 Forty-Eight Forty-Eight Special Custom 1200 Roadster Street Bob Low Rider Slim Fat Bob Fat Bob 114 Sport Glide Deluxe Fat Boy Fat Boy 114 Breakout Breakout 114 FXDR 114 Heritage Classic Heritage Classic 114 Road King Road King Special Road Glide Road Glide Special Street Glide Street Glide Special Ultra Limited Freewheeler Tri Glide Ultra CVO Street Glide 117

$9995 $12,995 $15,495 $15,495 $16,495 $18,995 $18,995 $19,250 $19,495 $23,495 $24,250 $26,250 $27,495 $30,250 $27,750 $29,495 $30,995 $33,995 $31,250 $33,995 $35,495 $31,750 $33,995 $34,250 $35,250 $36,495 $37,495 $36,495 $37,495 $39,995 $40,250 $50,995 $49,750

Your adventure. Our policy.

Call our specialist team on 1800 24 34 64 or visit qbe.com/au Conditions apply. QBE Insurance (Australia) Ltd. ABN 78 003 191 035.

AFSL 239545. Consider the PDS to see if a product is right for you.

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new bike prices

Road Glide 117 Ultra Limited 117

$49,995 $52,995

HONDA

www.honda.com.au

Road Grom Monkey CB125E CB300R CB500F CBR500R CBR600RR CB650F CB650R CBR650F CBR650R CB1000R CBR1000RR Fireblade CBR1000RR Fireblade SP Goldwing DCT Goldwing Tour Goldwing Tour Premium Cruiser CMX Adv Touring CRF250R Rally CB500X NC750XA Africa Twin Africa Twin Adv Sports Africa Twin Adv Sport DCT VFR1200X Crosstourer Scooter NSC110 Dio MW110 Benly C125 Super Cub SH150 PCX150 NSS300A Forza

$3490 $5399 $2399 $5999 $7599 $7699 $14,999 $9799 $9999 $9999 $10,299 $16,799 $18,086 $28,499 $35,999 $41,999 $42,999 $8099 $7299 $7999 $9999 $17,499 $19,699 $19,999 $18,299 $2799 $3349 $5199 $4999 $4599 $7999

HUSQVARNA

www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com/au Road Vitpilen 401 Svartpilen 401 Vitpilen 701

$11,592 $11,592 $18,337

INDIAN

www.indianmotorcycles.com.au *All Indian Motorcycle prices are ride away

Cruiser Scout Bobber Scout FTR1200 FTR1200S FTR1200S Race Rep Chief Dark Horse Chief Vintage Springfield Springfield Dark Horse Chieftain Dark Horse Chieftain Limited Roadmaster Roadmaster Elite

$18,995 $19,495 $20,995 $22,995 $24,995 $28,995 $32,995 $33,995 $34,995 $35,995 $36,995 $40,995 $49,995

$6499 $6749 $6749 $9799 $9999 $10,299 $14,799 $14,799 $11,999 $13,999 $12,599 $16,499 $16,799 $15,599 $16,399 $23,700 $23,900 $30,300 $27,300 $35,500 $22,099 $29,290 $33,000 $41,900 $10,099 $10,299 $10,499 $12,499 $12,499 $6399 $6499 $10,599 $8199 $22,499

KTM

www.ktm.com.au Road 390 Duke 790 Duke 790 Duke R 1290 Super Duke R 1290 Super Duke GT Adv Touring 690 Enduro R 790 Adventure 790 Adventure R 1090 Adventure R 1290 Super Adv S 1290 Super Adv R

$7295 $14,995 $15,495 $25,995 $26,995 $17,595 $21,195 $22,695 $24,295 $28,395 $29,195

kymco.com.au Road CK 125 Venox 250 Scooter Super 8 125 Like 125 Espresso 150 Like 200 Downtown 300i ABS

$2095 Cruiser $5295 $2595 $2995 $2799 $3395 $7495

$4249 $5999 $6299

V125 Special Fix V125 Special Flex V200 Special Fix V200 Special Flex

www.motoguzzi.com.au Road V7 III Stone V7 III Special V7 III Racer V7 III Anniversario V9 Bobber V9 Roamer Cruiser Cali Audace Carbon Cali 1400 Eldorado Cali 1400 Touring SE MGX-21

$12,990 $13,990 $16,490 $16,990 $15,190 $15,190 $23,990 $23,990 $25,990 $35,000

MV AGUSTA

www.mvagusta.com.au Road F3 675 $20,490 F3 675 RC $26,990 Brutale 800 $20,490 Brutale 800 RR $23,490 Brutale 800 RR Pirelli $28,990 Brutale 800 RR America $26,990 Brutale 800 RR RC $30,880 Brutale 800 Dragster RR $26,390 Brutale 800 Dragster RC $30,880 Brutale 800 RR Hamilton $36,880 RVS #1 $49,990 F3 800 $22,490 F3 800 RC $28,990 Superveloce 800 $49,990 Turismo Veloce $22,490 Turismo Veloce Lusso $25,990 Turismo Veloce RC $29,880 Turismo Velo Lusso SCS $29,990 Turismo Veloce Lusso RC SCS $33,990 Brutale 1090 $21,490 Brutale 1090 RR $24,990 F4 $26,990 F4 RR $36,990 F4 RC $58,880 F4 Lewis Hamilton $89,880

PIAGGIO

www.piaggio.com.au Scooter Typhoon 125 Fly 150 3V Liberty S 150 3V Medley 150 Yourban 300 BV 350 Sport Touring X10 350 X10 500

$2790 $3490 $3790 $5290 $9790 $8190 $9490 $9,990

PEUGEOT

www.peugeotmotorcycles.com.au

www.lambrettaaustralia.com.au

www.kawasaki.com.au

MOTO GUZZI

*Some Piaggio prices are ride away

KYMCO

LAMBRETTA

KAWASAKI Road Z125 Pro KRT Z300 Z400

Ninja 400 Ninja 400 KRT Ninja 400 SE Z650L Ninja 650/L Ninja 650/L KRT Ninja ZX-6R 636 Ninja ZX-6R 636 KRT W800 SE Black W800 Café Z900 Z900RS Z900RS Café Z1000 Ninja 1000 ZX-10R ZX-10R KRT ZX-10R SE ZX-10RR ZX-10RR Lime Green ZX-14R Brembo Ohlins H2 SX SE H2 SX SE+ H2 Carbon Cruiser Vulcan S Vulcan S SE Vulcan S Café Vulcan 900 Classic Vulcan 900 Custom Adv Touring Versys X Versys X SE Versys 650/L KLR650 Versys 1000 SE

$4290 $4290 $4990 $4990

Tweet 125 Django 150 Evasion Django 150 Sport Django 150 Allure Belville 200 RS Metropolis 400

$3790 $4990 $4990 $5190 $4990 $13,490

Your adventure. Our policy.

Call our specialist team on 1800 24 34 64 or visit qbe.com/au Conditions apply. QBE Insurance (Australia) Ltd. ABN 78 003 191 035.

AFSL 239545. Consider the PDS to see if a product is right for you.

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ROYAL ENFIELD

www.royalenfieldaustralia.com Road Classic 350 Classic 350 Redditch Rumbler 350 Bullet 500 Classic 500 Classic 500 Redditch Classic Stealth Classic Gunmetal Grey Classic Desert Storm Classic Battle Green Classic Squadron Blue Classic Chrome Continental GT 650 Interceptor Classic 650 Interceptor Custom 650 Interceptor Chrome 650 Conti GT Classic 650 Conti GT Custom 650 Conti GT Chrome Adv Touring Himalayan

$5590 $5590 $5790 $7690 $7990 $7990 $7990 $7990 $7990 $7990 $7990 $8190 $8690 $8440 $8640 $8940 $8640 $8840 $9140 $5990

SOL INVICTUS

www.solinvictus.com.au Road Mercury 250 Café Racer Nemesis 400 Classic Nemesis 400 Scrambler

$3999 $5899 $5999

SUPER SOCO

www.supersoco.com.au Road TS TC

$4990 $TBA

SUZUKI

www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au Road GSX-S125 GSX-R125 TU250X DR-Z400SM GSX-R600 SV650 SV650X GSX-S750 GSX-R750 GSX-S1000 GSX-S1000F GSX-S1000 Katana GSX-R1000 GSX-R1000R GSX1300R Hayabusa Cruiser Boulevard S40 Boulevard C50T Boulevard C90 Boulevard M109R Adv Touring V-Strom 250 DR650SE V-Strom 650

$3390 $3490 $5990 $8990 $14,990 $8990 $9490 $11,490 $15,990 $15,190 $15,990 $18,990 $21,990 $25,490 $19,290 $7990 $10,990 $15,490 $19,490 $6190 $8090 $10,990

V-Strom 650 XT V-Strom 1000 XT Scooter Address Burgman 200 Burgman 400

$11,990 $16,490

Retro/M70 Ranger

$2490 $5490 $10,490

VESPA

SWM

www.swmmotorcycles.com.au Road Gran Turismo Silver Vase 440 Gran Milano 440 SM 500 R SM 650 R Adv Touring Superdual

$7490 $7490 $7990 $8990 $9490 $9990

TRIUMPH

www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au *Some Triumph prices are ride away

Road Street Triple S 660 Street Triple S Street Triple R Street Triple RS Bonneville Street Twin Bonne Street Cup Street Scrambler Bonne T100 Bonne T100 Black Bobber Bonne Bobber Black Bonneville T120 Bonneville T120 Black Speedmaster Thruxton Thruxton R Speed Twin Tiger Sport Speed Triple RS Cruiser Thunderbird Storm Thunderbird Commander Thunderbird LT Rocket Roadster Rocket Touring Adv Touring Scrambler 1200 XE Scrambler 1200 XC Tiger 800 XRx/L Tiger 800 XRt Tiger 800 XCx/L Tiger 800 XCa Tiger 1200 XRx Tiger 1200 XCx Tiger 1200 XRt Tiger 1200 XCa

www.vespa.com.au Scooter Primavera 125 3V Primavera 150 3V Sprint 150 3V Sprint 150 3V SE GTS 150 3V PX150 PX150 Touring 946 Bellissima 946 Armani GTS250ie FL GTS300 Super GTS300 Super Sport

$5590 $6290 $6390 $6490 $6290 $6490 $6790 $12,490 $14,990 $7890 $9190 $9490

YAMAHA

www.yamaha-motor.com.au $12,800 $13,800 $15,850 $17,550 $13,700 $15,600 $15,900 $15,300 $15,300 $18,000 $19,500 $17,200 $17,200 $19,500 $18,700 $21,100 $18,000 $17,550 $22,700 $22,800 $23,800 $25,000 $23,990 $26,490 $21,700 $TBA $18,550 $20,700 $19,650 $21,350 $24,200 $25,600 $27,600 $29,300

URAL

www.imz-ural.com.au Road cT cT Dark Force Adv Touring Tourist

$24,970 $24,970

$21,780 $24,850 $23,760

Road YZF-R15 MT-03 R3 R3 SP YZF-R6 MT-07 LA MT-07 HO XSR700 LA MT-07 Tracer MT-09 MT-09 SP XSR900 MT-09 Tracer MT-09 Tracer GT Niken Niken GT MT-10 MT-10SP YZF-R1 YZF-R1M FJR1300AE Cruiser Virago V Star 650 Custom V Star 650A Classic Star Bolt C-Spec Cafe Star Bolt R-Spec V Star 950 XVS1300 Stryker Adv Touring XT250 660 Tenere Super Tenere Super Tenere ESP Scooter D’elight 125 NMAX 150 Tricity 150 XMAX 300 TMAX 530 SX

$4299 $5799 $6299 $6399 $17,499 $9999 $10,699 $10,999 $12,299 $12,299 $13,999 $12,999 $15,499 $18,199 $21,999 $23,999 $18,999 $21,999 $23,999 $31,999 $27,999 $6799 $8799 $9299 $8699 $11,999 $13,999 $15,499 $6299 $13,999 $19,999 $21,999 $3399 $3999 $5099 $6999 $14,499

Your adventure. Our policy.

Call our specialist team on 1800 24 34 64 or visit qbe.com/au Conditions apply. QBE Insurance (Australia) Ltd. ABN 78 003 191 035.

AFSL 239545. Consider the PDS to see if a product is right for you.

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111 www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au 2/10/18 10:28 am

4/9/19 1:05 pm

BEARFACED

LAWFUL BUT AWFUL S

OME THINGS JUST don’t make sense. To me, anyway.

Every time I turn the radio on (I’ve given up watching TV) there’s another shooting in the US. You’d think there would be some kind of foreboding hanging over the place, awareness that “it could happen here” and some sign of… I don’t know… wariness?

I’ve just been riding in Washington and Oregon, and there’s no such thing. The closest you come is an acknowledgement of the gun laws, like the one in the photo, taken on the door of a supermarket in a little town called Stephenson on the Columbia River in southern Washington. Note that they are not concerned about customers carrying guns hidden under their clothes; it’s just openly flaunting them that’s prohibited, and you almost get the feeling that it’s more a matter of politeness than anything else.

And the thing is, I didn’t really see any guns during this ride, except on cops.

There weren’t even any of those telltale bulges under armpits that you see in the movies as a dead giveaway that the wearer is packing.

There are gun shops, it’s true, but there aren’t many of them and they don’t look as if the owners are selling enough armaments to make them rich. I know, the mail

112

order gun business in the United States is huge and it is making fortunes for the sellers; my point is that none of this is obvious in towns or on the road.

No, I didn’t even see an Easy Rider-style pickup with a gun rack across the rear window.

And it’s a peaceful place in general.

I saw significantly less incipient road rage than in Sydney. Drivers pull over for you if they see you coming up in the mirrors and you’re obviously going faster than they are.

Admittedly that might be because they’re afraid you’ll pull a Saturday Night Special on them if they block you, but it seems highly unlikely.

People are simply nice to each other in the street or on the road.

You might think that I would exclude obvious slums from this description, but no.

I’ve had polite and accurate directions from people of, er, ‘varying appearance’ when I’ve pulled up in, er, ‘disadvantaged neighbourhoods’ and asked for help.

I feel safe riding in the US, whether in cities, small towns or the countryside. If you need assistance, people are only too willing to provide it. Ask for advice and generally you’ll be inundated.

But, and this is the crunch, the thing that doesn’t make sense to me, it seems as if any of the little towns I passed through and

stayed in could be the next scene of a school shooting. Any of the churches I’ve admired in their often beautiful leafy settings could be targeted by someone with an automatic rifle.

Yet there is no undercurrent to warn you of potential danger; perhaps I’m simply not sensitive to it but I’m damned if I could pick up as much as a sense of unease.

What does this all boil down to for me? Well, I personally have no hesitation about riding in the US but I’m beginning to feel that maybe I had better not recommend it to my readers quite so freely. I can’t even imagine how I’d feel if one of you was to take my advice about a US bike trip and find him or herself at the business end of a Winchester.

I love the United States, have ever since the first time I had a chance to ride there, nearly 40 years ago.

What a tragedy that I have to hesitate before passing a sense of that love on to you.

Peter “The Bear” Thoeming D

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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Aus�r��i�� Mag�����

AVAILABLE AT ZINIO FOR YOUR APPLE OR ANDROID TABLET. SEARCH FOR US ON THE ZINIO WEBSITE OR VIA THE LINK ON OUR WEBSITE.

ADVERTISERS LISTING IFC, 3 – Royal Enfield

45 – Bull IT

87 – Eaglescreens

OBC – QBE Insurance

49 – Dririder

91 – Rocky Creek Designs

IBC – Harley-Davidson

55 – Motorrad Garage

93 – Central Otago Motorcycle Hire

7 – Kawasaki

57 – IMT Bike Tours & Rentals

9 – Triumph

59 – Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ

11 – Ducati

63 – Rukka

15 – Shoei

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31 – BMW Motorrad

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33 – Yamaha

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BORIS

WORDS BORIS MIHAILOVIC

OBSERVATIONS FROM ABOVE I

HAD QUITE A giggle at the recent press launch of the Harley-Davidson Lowrider S. And no, it wasn’t about the bike, which I thought was quite a hoot despite, or perhaps in spite of, its foot-pegs being in the wrong place for my supermodel legs.

My giggle stemmed from the remarks of Mr Matt Levatich, who’d come along to welcome the assembled media worthies to the launch. Mr Levatich, in case you didn’t know, is a former engineer, and currently the president and CEO of Harley-Davidson.

And also, in case you didn’t know, Harley is going through some tough times at the moment. As is much of the rest of the motorcycle industry, especially in Australia, where sales of new bikes continue to swirl down the Royal Doulton.

The issue, everyone agrees, is people are not buying new bikes. And young people especially, are not buying new bikes. So as the old dinosaurs slump off to the tar pits, few new riders are replacing them.

Matt’s welcoming words addressed this paradigm in quite an interesting way. And looking at the stunnedmullet faces of some of the attendees listening to Matt while holding their free beers and canapes, I couldn’t help but giggle internally.

Matt was of the view that when we, the media, wrote our reviews of bikes – and not just Harleys, but all of them – that we should perhaps write less

114

about the technical aspects and maybe address the joy of the ride. He felt, and I absolutely agree with him, that it is incumbent upon us, the people who write about bikes, to communicate what it is to ride to people who may not know, or may have forgotten.

I have been around for a long time in this gig. I think only The Bear and Grant Roff predate me. And knowing them, I know they will agree with me that somehow somewhere along the way, much of the motorcycle media has lost its way in this regard.

Where once professionals crafted brilliant prose that encapsulated and exalted the ride, now it’s mostly ‘motorcycle enthusiasts’ and ‘good blokes’ mashing their faces into their keyboards.

Harried, desperate, and stunted in the talent department, these ‘motorcycle enthusiasts’ and ‘good blokes’ are now the majority in Australian motorcycle media – and they pretty much churn (rather than create and construct) out motorcycle reviews, which are nothing much more than the spec sheet separated by a bunch of adjectives, adverbs and prepositions. One such idiot actually stated recently the controls of the new Suzuki Katana “fall easily to hand” and referred to it as a “silver steed”.

I can easily imagine the marketing directors of the various companies reading this rubbish and sighing in despair. How is such egregious rot meant to inspire anyone to want to try the bike? How does restructuring the spec sheet into awkward paragraphs and chucking in a stupid cliché, meant to encourage a young person to throw a leg over a bike? How is the

review of a new LAM written by an old man in his seventies gonna light a motorcycle fire in the belly of a 16-year-old?

Matt Levatich certainly knows the answers to these questions. And I applaud the fact he had the cags to state it to members of the media. I bow my head in respect at the way he did it, too. He was diplomacy incarnate. A reasonable man asking a reasonable thing – try and include the passion and joy of riding into your copy, rather than just concentrate on the technical bits.

I would have flogged some of the attendees with a thick rope soaked in salt water. I would have lashed them until they admitted their crimes against motorcycling, the English language, and the intelligence of the readers.

The beating would not have stopped until they swore to quit destroying every damn thing I hold dear with their amateurish crap, and pissed off back to asking people if they want fries with their burger.

But I am not Matt Levatich. So that is not what happened.

So what will happen?

Nothing much.

A few rare individuals will do as they have always done, and write engaging and inspiring copy that celebrates the ride and the bike, rather than the latest swingarm length.

The rest will continue to do as they have done for their entire short and shameful careers – produce dreary rubbish full of clichés while sucking on the hospitality teat of the industry as if they are somehow entitled to it.

It is well past the time the industry pulled that teat out of their mouths and got the wet rope out.

Matt Levatich is certainly the first executive to call these parasites out.

I hope he is not the last. D

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3/10/19 7:15 pm

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Your adventure. Our policy.

As a motorcyclist, you know that bike riders are different. It’s the open road, how it feels to be at one with your machine and the freedom to go your own way.

QBE shares your love of motorcycles. It’s why riders across Australia have trusted us for over 35 years to look after themselves and their bikes.

QBE Motorcycle Insurance policies aren’t just packed with benefits, they are highly competitive. Call our specialist team on 1800 24 34 64 and ask for a ‘Price Beat Guarantee’ quote today, or visit qbe.com/au

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Price guarantee is based on our standard price compared to competitors price for policies with the same type of insured events. Offer valid for the first 12 months of insurance, after this premium will be charged at the competitive QBE standard rate. We only guarantee to beat the price of APRA authorised insurers who hold an AFSL issued by ASIC. Guarantee does not apply to any free offers of insurance.

Insurance is issued by QBE Insurance (Australia) Ltd. ABN 78 003 191 035. AFSL 239545. To decide if a policy is right for you please carefully read the PDS which is available at qbe.com/au or by phoning us on 1800 24 34 64. Price beat guarantee only available on full comprehensive motorcycle insurance. Not available on CTP.

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81

AMM november 2019

ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN / CANADA / R1250RT / H-D LOW RIDER S / SUMMER GEAR / BENELLI 502C / PUB: ECHUCA

ISSUE #9, VOL 7