Australian Motorcyclist Magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066 Phone 0412 220 680.
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EDITORSPEAKS
SMALL capacity motorcycle/ scooter sales are propping up the industry at the moment thanks to the influx of Uber Eats, Deliveroo and so on food deliveries. What is rather concerning to me is the skill of the riders delivering the food. They seem not to care very much about motorcycle maintenance or what it takes to actually ride a motorcycle/scooter on our roads.
I’ve seen too many of these riders crash, laugh it off (when they could) and continue on their merry way, with no doubt, your food a little more minced up than expected. First thing I’d like to know – how are they getting their motorcycle licences when they are so crap at riding? Or is it these people are relying on an overseas licence to ride here? Either way something needs to be done as I want my food hot and in one piece. Okay, jokes aside the skill level should be something of concern to authorities as I’m sure many of these food delivery riders are being seriously injured or worse – killed.
elbow bashing, rubbing’s racing ride at Oakleigh go-kart track with big names like Cam Donald, Steve Martin and Chas Hern. The four of us had a massive laugh backing it in, chucking it up the inside and being that close to the edge of crashing it made you giggle - funny to think that a motorcycle with such little horsepower could bring so many laughs and great times.
What are your thoughts on this? Let me know – stuart@ ausmotorcyclist.com.au
It’s been a while since I can really say I’ve had an experience on a motorcycle that I’ll store in the memory bank. Sure, I love riding motorcycles but most rides and trips seem to blend in with the norm. I’m talking about a ride that I’ll talk about for years to come and the funny part about this is it was on those little mini style bikes – in particular the Benelli TnT135. I had a proper bar knocking,
The “Benelli World Championship Cup” came right down to the wire where it was Chas, me, Cam and Steve barrelling into a left hander. I had a massive late chuck on Chas which stuffed both of our run out of the corner gifting the World Championship Cup to Cam. I’m sure he’ll be gloating about it for years to come as his highest achievement in motorcycling! HAHAHA! Although I’m sure they’ll all be wondering how the hell a big elephant like me was keeping up with them. LOL! I’ll tell you my ‘secret’, I lightened the bike by ten grams grinding the footpegs away. Every gram matters! Enjoy. Cheers, Stuart.
DOWN TO THE WIRE
Aussie TT racer, Davo Johnson won the Classic Superbike TT riding a Kawasaki ZXR750. The race came right down to the final minute which saw Michael Dunlop leading only to have machinery issues with a couple of miles to go. Completing the podium were Derek Sheils (Kawasaki) and James Hillier (Ducati).
GO AND GET ROUTED
Get Routed has put together an itinerary for a semi-guided tour to the Isle of Man for the Classic TT/ Manx GP in 2020. Participants will be taking their own bikes, shipped from Australia to the UK.
Initially you’ll have 2 weeks touring England visiting many places of interest to ‘yer average addict’ - The ACE Cafe, the London Motorcycle Museum, Sammy Miller’s Race Bike Museum, Beaulieu Motor Museum, Haynes International Motor Museum, the Morgan Motor Company factory, the Triumph factory, the Norton factory and the UK National Motorcycle Museum.
Add a couple of days riding thru the Yorkshire Dales to visit ‘Aidensfield’ and Squires Café and a couple of nights in Liverpool to take in the Beatles Experience.
The group would then end up on the Isle of Man for the Festival of Motorcycling which incorporates the Classic TT and the Manx GP in the one meeting from Saturday 22 August to Saturday 5 September. The first week is Practice week and the second Race week.
The group will be limited to 10 people –so book your spot now!
Get Routed is also shipping over a number of significant historic Australian race bikes which in years gone by raced in the Isle of Man TT in the hands of Aussie racers such as the late Tom Phillis. Those bikes will be doing closed circuit parade laps of the TT circuit and appearing at Jurby Day.
Jurby Day is held at Jurby airfield on the middle Sunday of the Festival of Motorcycling and attracts the biggest collection of vintage, classic, weird and modern bikes you have ever seen - and that’s just in the car park. Out on the circuit will be bikes you have never seen or possibly even heard of. Jurby Day usually attracts a crowd of up to 20,000 and for the Isle of Man that’s the equivalent of 100,000 at Phillip Island. Who’s interested?
Email Get Routed - dave@getrouted. com.au and he’ll send you a copy of the draft itinerary. He says, “draft” because it’s not difficult to change it if some folks want something added or subtracted. There will be plenty of opportunity for anyone to wander off and do their own thing, if they prefer to do that. There will also be time on either end of the tour for participants to go do their own tour or visit relatives.
ARTISTIC
A former BMW R1200RT Australian Police motorcycle proved to be the perfect canvas for Noongar Artist Ken Farmer, creating what is believed to be the first fully hand painted Aboriginal Art motorcycle in Australia*. Whilst there are many examples of single panels on bikes being hand painted or airbrushed, this bike is fully adorned with Dreamtime stories and depicts Noongar people assembled beside the “Derbarl Yerrigan” (the Swan River in Perth Australia).
Ken got the idea of creating this unique piece of work when talking to a friend Martin Childs who was the original owner of the bike. Martin happily agreed to gift the bike to the Noongar Community to help promote Ken’s art in an unconventional way. What a head turner it has proven to be! Martin often has to turn a curious motorist’s attention back to the road when riding the motorcycle, which is aptly called “Art In Motion”. The bike also carries the plate “YOKAI” which is a Noongar call to come together and settle an issue. One of the most challenging parts of the job was the final gel coat. Martin could not find a custom shop willing to do this work because Ken’s hand painting had left many ripples and ridges on the surface, leaving the art below art risk during the normal gel
coat application process. Working in Defence, Martin was able to find a colleague who relished the idea of working on this project, with the gel coat being applied and left to air dry (no oven baking) over many weeks to get the perfect finish and adhesion without damaging the artwork. The bike is now fully weather protected, and admirers can run their fingers over it and literally feel the story that is contained within. Art In Motion is a great crowd pleaser at many events, out on the road or just parked in the street sparking up many conversations. If you would like to become the owner of history in the making or another piece of Ken’s existing or custom work for your wall at home on your office please visit his website www.kenfarmer.com.au .
*I don’t want to spoil the story, but more than two decades ago BMW Australia had a bike fully painted in an indigenous theme (by Michael Nelson Jagamarra, if I remember correctly) to join the company’s collection of Art Cars. I could be wrong about the artist, because he painted a car for them as well. JPT
RALLYING
The Possum has provided us/you with the upcoming rallies. Get along and have some fun…
SePTeMBer
20 - 22 Far Cairn rally, BMWTCNSW, Tottenham racecourse . Lions Club catering.
OCTOBer
5 - 6 Cane Toad rally, BMW Club QLD, Coronation Hotel, Toobeah, west of Goondiwindi.
11 - 13 Kosciuszko rally, BMW Club ACT, Geehi Flats, Alpine Way near Khancoban. NSW.
18 - 20 Spaghetti rally, Moto Guzzi
Club Vic. edi reserve near Wangaratta. Spit roast Friday evening, Pasta meal Saturday evening, bacon & egg rolls both mornings.
NOVeMBer
1 - 3 Thunder rally, Ducati Owners NSW, Sheba Dam near Nundle, Lions Club catering.
2 - 4 Trout rally, Tumut Valley riders, Jounama Creek Campground nr Talbingo BYO everything.
8 - 10 Australian Motorcycle Festival, Lang Park Wollongong includes round 3 of Supercross Championship. replaces Sydney Motorcycle Show.
22 - 24 Sr500 rally, Sr500 Club, Bethanga Sportsground, nr Albury, pub and catering.
Long range Planning for 2020 Queen’s Birthday Long WeekendAlpine rally ( first one under new management).
First weekend in August - The Border run, beer and burgers on the SA/WA Border.
Second weekend in August - The Off Centre rally, Adels Grove Campground, Gulf Country QLD.
GET THE EDGE
Get your hands on some great products with new player on the scene, Select edge Motorcycle Accessories. Select
edge is a supplier of high quality motorcycle accessories, with brands including Corbin seats, Dean Speed Customs, ends Cuoio leather saddlebags and Nitron Suspension.
Corbin is the largest motorcycle seat manufacturer in the world with a range of options to suit most motorcycles, these have proven decade after decade to offer the most comfortable seat that money can buy.
Dean Speed Customs is a high end manufacturer of motorcycle accessories including handlebars, exhausts, sissy bars and other cosmetic items. At the
moment the range specialises in the Indian Scout/Octane, Yamaha Bolt and Harley Sportster with products currently in development for the Harley Davidson Softail range.
e nds Cuoio is an Italian based manufacturer of high end leather saddlebags, with quality that is second to none.
Nitron suspension needs no introduction. It is regarded by some as one of, if not the best brand of motorcycle suspension and is sure to have a solution to suit your requirements, all with a lifetime warranty. Select edge offers applications to suit the HarleyDavidson, Indian and Triumph range of motorcycles, other motorcycle models available on request.
Contact richard at Select edge and tell him we sent you - Ph: 0458 133 024 (international +61 458 133 024) www.selectedge.com.au richard@selectedge.com.au
SPEAKING OF THUNDER…
Aunty Mal (for those that know him) is urging everyone to get along to the 38th Ducati Owners Club Thunder rally. Held at Sheba Dam, Nundle NSW this is one not to be missed, if only for Aunty Mal’s jokes. Date – 1-3 November. Contact – president@docnsw.org.au D
Think back to the eighties when the German-designed Suzuki 1100 Katana was King. Only the coolest of the cool rode a Katana and the cult following of the name ‘Katana’ is as strong today as it was back then. I should know; I restored an ‘84 1100 Katana at the beginning of the year. I regret selling it, now, but that’s how life rolls sometimes.
Much hype has surrounded the release of the 2020 (which is what Suzuki are calling it) Suzuki GSX1000S Katana. There has been
shouting from both sides of the fence on the subject of the new Katana – some love it, some hate it. There are also many who are angry that the new Katana looks nothing like the original, and “how could Suzuki use the Katana name…” and on it goes.
I was in this final camp originally too, I wondered (when looking at photos online) how Suzuki could get this bike so wrong when producing a retro bike and releasing it as a ‘Katana’, but as Suzuki points out, the big thing here is that you need to understand that they aren’t marketing this bike as a full on retro – it’s a
modern sport naked bike (“Neo Street Sport” as Suzuki calls it) with some design cues from the original bike.
Regrettably it doesn’t photograph well. This is unfortunate, especially in this day and age where everything is viewed via some sort of media. There is something else you won’t see in photos, you’ve got to see the new Katana in the metal to understand what it’s all about. The fine details that have gone into the actual design are what changed my mind with this bike, so much so that I’d have one in my garage whereas – right up
until the minute before I saw it
ARAI XD4
Street. Dirt. Adventure. Touring. Whether your ride of choice is tarmac or trail — or equal parts of both — Arai has the perfect helmet for all of them : the XD4. Renowned for years as the industry standard for comfort, quality and protection, the XD4 features Arai’s proprietary FCS ® cheek pad design, class-leading venting, a fully removable and washable interior, and a sleek shell shape and high-flow peak and side cowl vents that deliver excellent aerodynamic stability at street speeds.
The Arai XD4. Standard- setting performance, on road and off.
family tree and after all that’s just what motorcycling is all about –having fun!
Most of you might be thinking the Katana is just a GSX-S1000 with a different body kit on it, but while the base of the bike is exactly that, there are many details that have been changed. First and foremost is the riding position. The handlebar is a little lower and the footpegs and seat positioned to get you a little more forward. The handlebar does look a little weird, especially when you think of the Katana that had super low clip-ons, but when you sit on the new Katana it is comfy and feels natural. This results in a bike that is super easy to manage with loads of feel turning into corners and at any speed.
Styling (as mentioned) isn’t meant to be a full-on retro, rather a modern motorcycle with some styling cues from the past. The downside to this with the Katana is to get the tank (a centre piece of the bike) to reference the original Katana and keep all the airbox and rubbish that lives underneath on a modern bike means that the capacity is rather low. 12 litres is what you get and expect 150km from it on most trips.
Other design cues that hark back to the original Katana include the rectangular headlight, sharp line through the side of the tank, side covers, seat and the front guard. The rear guard is a fi rst for Suzuki and could be one of the things that turns many people off this bike. It does look kind of weird in the overall design of the bike but as I mentioned, Suzuki did not want this to be a retro bike.
Electronics include ABS, three mode (and off) traction control, easy start – which is a one push of the starter button and low-rpm assist –which raises revs by 500rpm to assist with moving off from a standstill.
An LCD instrument panel emulates the original Katana with a wrap-around styled electronic tacho band. It is a nice little touch that’s about as good as you’ll get transferring from analogue to digital
in a modern form.
The engine is the GSX-Rderived in-line four cylinder. It is a long-stroke engine which a number of years ago was known as the ‘K5’ engine, but there are virtually no interchangeable parts as the new long stroke engine has been improved. Power is strong (110kW), torque (108Nm) pulls hard and the fuelling has been improved from the GSX-S which is known to be quite snatchy. I won’t say the fuelling is perfect but it’s a lot better than the GSX-S.
Handling equipment comprises the 2016 GSX-R1000 swingarm and the GSX-S1000 twin spar frame. The Katana does have specifi c suspension settings which I found to be fi rm but compliant enough for virtually all road riding and turn in is light with a ton of feel thanks to the upright and wide handlebar. The Katana weighs the same as the current GSX-R1000! Braking is by Brembo and, as you’d expect, offers good performance. The front pads did need a little bedding in to start off with but once I’d given them a good workout their performance improved signifi cantly. The ABS works well but does cut in a little early for my liking. This is nitpicking as I was riding quite quick to fi nd this out.
Accessories are very well thought out. You can get many carbon pieces, red brake calipers, smoked screen, two-tone seat with red highlights and Katana embossed logo, heated grips and many other bits and pieces including body stripe decals.
I hope you’ve come away from this review understanding that the new Suzuki GSX1000S Katana hasn’t been produced to replicate the original, it is a new, modern sport naked with some design features from the original Katana. As a road bike it’s mega fast and does attract a lot of attention so I urge you to go to your local Suzuki dealer and look at it in person to understand just what it’s about. D
SUZUKI GSX1000S KATANA SPECS
PRICE: $18,990 (ride away)
WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance
SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months
ENGINE: Liquid-cooled in-line four cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder
BRAKES: Front, twin 310mm discs with radial mount four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 245mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.
FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A
THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A
COLOURS: Silver, Black
VERDICT: A MUST SEE IN THE FLESH
Freedom shouldn’t be compromised
And having the right insurance with the right insurer is the first step in making sure you’re always free to ride.
New England Insurance Brokers Pty Ltd (NEIB) has been providing custom motorcycle insurance solutions to Australian riders for 30 years. The majority of the NEIB team are owners and riders themselves. They understand what it means to know your motorcycle is protected by the right insurance, so you can ride with complete peace of mind.
With NEIB, nothing gets between you and the road:
NEIB are the only people you need to talk to when arranging your insurance. With special licensing arrangements, the NEIB team can handle all aspects of your motorcycle insurance with courtesy and efficiency.
They also know that with insurance, security is the key:
NEIB has been working with CGU Insurance for over twenty years. Chosen for their long history operating in Australia and excellent credit rating, CGU Insurance is part of Australia’s largest general insurance group, IAG.
With two or three wheels, NEIB has you covered:
NEIB are motorcycle insurance specialists in Australia and have a policy that is perfect for whatever you’re riding including:
• Cover for high value and custom-built motorcycles;
• Automatic Flexible Riding Gear cover provided to different levels of protection*;
• Motorcycles/Trikes cover for Tour Operators;
• Public Liability insurance for Tour Operators underwritten by CGU;
• Flexible payment options.
SPECIAL FEATURE Adventure
DUCATI
www.ducati.com.au or your local dealer
Explorer Full-face helmet - $824.26
Created in collaboration with Arai, this is perfect for enduro and off-road use. The light, resistant ScLc fibre shell is equipped with an air vent on the chin and an efficient venting system with air vents which can be easily removed for cleaning. The Dry-Cool inner liner is completely removable and washable.
adventures. Consisting of 3 modular layers including a thermal lining and removable H2Out membrane that can be worn separately, it incorporates all the best solutions of the category. An all-season jacket has a big task: it has to keep warm in the winter, cool in the summer, shield from the rain and always be comfortable and protective. Large air vents, multiple adjustments in volumes, roomy pockets, highperforming protectors are only some of the distinctive features of this jacket. When zipped to the Atacama pants, the result is a riding suit in perfect Ducati style.
Atacama WP C1 Boots - $483.07
GST
+ freight
Dual Sport, Super Motard or Street Hooligan? Regardless of your DR 650’s setup, Corbin’s got your back(side). This saddle design combines the functionality of a motocross seat with the street smart ergonomics of Corbin design. End result being a truly functional perch that gives you comfort for the long haul. So whether your travels carry you over hard pack, loam or asphalt, you’ll find the Corbin perch as versatile as your bike. http://corbin.com/suzuki/ dr650.shtml or www.selectedge.com.au
Atacama Fabric Jacket$1122.70 and Pant - $813.70
Designed by Aldo Drudi and developed with the support of Ducati test riders, this is specific for touring
Produced by Alpinestars in Ducati livery, these are specific for adventure use. Made with a mix of materials including microfiber and suede, they are equipped with all the standard protections for the category, like the advanced polymeric shin plate and the innovative ankle protection with supporting biomechanical link between the upper boot and the lower foot structure. Every component of this boot has been designed for weightsaving and performance regardless of the weather or terrain, from the integrated breathable membrane to its upper in a microfiber/suede blend.
SELECT EDGE
www.selectedge.com.au or Ph: 03 9467 7622 Email: sales@selectedge.com.au
BMW 1200/1250GS Corbin front saddle - From $749 inc
GST + freight
In order to make the best possible seating, Corbin opted to create a Low, Standard and High model rather than using the BMW adjustable brackets. This way they could optimise seating for each position and ensure a properly neutralised platform. Don’t worry though, the Corbin front seats are still simple to install and integrate with your factory key lock. http://corbin.com/bmw/ bmwgs12s13.shtml or www.selectedge.com.au
Honda Africa Twin 1000 Corbin
Low Dual Saddle & Corbin High Dual Saddle - From $845 inc
GST + freight
Corbin upgraded the seat with a single
Suzuki DR650 Corbin Dual Sport Saddle - From $689 inc
Photo by Barnabas Imre
piece model to provide more structural support and the ability to accept a removable passenger backrest. There are two models, one to emulate the seat height of the stock seat in the upper position and one to provide an easier ground reach like the stock seat in the low position. By designing each seat specifically, Corbin was able to keep excellent ergonomics and a properly neutralised seating platform.
High version: http://corbin.com/ honda/hat16h.shtml or www.selectedge.com.au
ROCKY CREEK DESIGNS
www.rockycreekdesigns.com.au
Camping Table & Chair - Range between $65 (Small Bikerz Chair) to $138.95 (large Namib chair) (pictured)
The Namib Reclining chair has been designed from feedback given by
Rocky Creek’s customers. It meets the request for a generously sized chair with a drinks holder and a pocket to store a race program or your cap or whatever. The chair has two positions, sit-up and recline, a pillow to rest your head and store the carry bag in. The request was to make it light and strong and it MUST fit into a standard pannier.
So the Namib reclining chair was built. Rated to 120kg*, high strength aluminium tubes are designed to make it stable, compact and lightweight. The synthetic cover is made of mesh, making it breathable and quick drying so you can sit in comfort no matter what the weather. The chair includes all the luxuries mentioned above. Comes with a zipped pillow into which you can fold the carry bag. When you’re done, the Namib breaks down and packs into its own storage bag and is designed to pack away into a standard pannier.
It’s best to keep drink and food up off the ground and away from the dirt and sand. If that appeals to you, then you’ll probably like this camping table.
Paired with one of Rocky Creek’s chairs, this lightweight foldable camping table will take your outdoor experience to the next level. Takes seconds to setup, weighs only 475g and packs down to 360x90mm which means it will easily fit into a pannier.
MotoPressor Puncture Repair Kit - $79.95
Compact tubeless puncture repair kit that includes everything you’ll need to get you back on the road. The whole kit stores in a handy neoprene bag measuring 14 x 11 x 5cm and weighs 580g.
Kit Includes:
• The award winning MotoPressor Puncture Repair Tool. It’s a “4 in 1 multi-tool” that holds the four tools essential for tubeless tyre repair. The tool includes a pair of pliers, a rasp, an insertion tool and a sharp knife.
• A strip of 5 pre-vulcanized repair strings.
• Three CO2 cartridges
• An inflation tool.
• A neoprene bag to store everything in.
MCLEOD ACCESSORIES www.mcleodaccessories.com.au
Sidi Adventure 2
Boots - $649.95
The Sidi Adventure 2 Gore-tex boots have been created to provide brilliant comfort along with excellent protection for all types of on and off-road adventure motorcycling. The boots feature a premium GoreTex waterproof breathable liner guaranteed to keep your feet dry, along
special feature Adventure
with a host of protective and comfort features that make the Adventure 2 the world leader in adventure boot design. Available in Brown & Black in sizes Euro 41 to 48.
Dririder Vortex Adventure 2
Jacket - $499.95
All season adventure touring jacket made from a Polyester 900Denier with 1200D on shoulders and elbows, PU coated outer, featuring CE armour with hi-density foam back pad, removable waterproof/breathable liner (15,000 mm/7000 mm), removable 150g thermal quilted liner, large chest air-vents, arm vents and rear exhaust vents, detachable throat coat, reflective printing for night time safety, arm and waist adjusters for optimum fit, powerstretch in elbows, waist expander zips, multiple storage pockets, waist connection zip for pants, ¾ and short. Available in sizes Small to 8XL (yes!) in 3 colour combinations.
Rallycross Pro 3
Jacket - $419.95
No compromise off-road jacket for all seasons and terrains made from
a 600D Polyester and 600D Ripstop Cordura outer featuring 1000D 4 way stretch and abrasion resistant mesh, PU external armour on shoulders and elbows, CE armour and hi-density back protector, detachable waterproof liner (10,000mm/5000mm), detachable thermal liner, zip off sleeves, hydration pocket with bladder included, arm and waist adjusters, stretch comfort panels, 5 outer pockets plus hand warmer pockets, reflective to increase night time visibility and connection zip for pants
Ventura EVO 22 Sports Touring Kit - $399
With a smooth, aerodynamic shape, this horizontally-mounted 22-litre bag is perfect for a day trip, or a lightlyloaded weekend.
Release the two quick-release buckles securing the semi-rigid bag, slide it off and you’re left with a flat rack making the EVO-22 a great choice for modern adventure bikes.
The semi-rigid bag retains its shape and features three external pockets for those things you need to keep handy. Reflective safety piping and material on corners adds night-time visibility. Two internal pockets make it easy to find keys or loose change. All internal seams are bound. Padded handles and a clip-on shoulder strap make it easy to carry. Like all Ventura Bike Packs, the EVO-22 is made from PVC-laminated ballistic nylon that is highly water resistant.
If you already have an EVO rack fitted to your bike, you can alternate between the EVO-60, EVO-40, EVO-22 and EVO-10 packs as the mood takes you.
Venhill Brake and Clutch Lines - $79 – single line; $149 – twin lines; $225 – triple lines
For over 45 years Venhill has been manufacturing brake lines, control cables and hydraulic hoses for motorbikes. All Venhill lines and cables are made in the UK to the highest possible standard and shipped to distributors worldwide.
Readers who are personalising their own bikes can order Venhill Powerhose Plus braided lines in an array of colours and finish them off with black, chrome or stainless steel ends. Perfect for those who are changing handlebars or hand controls. Ask for Venhill by name at your favourite bike shop Australia-wide, or see kenma.com.au to check out the online shop.
Screw flats! Ever wanted to say that? Well now you can say it and mean it.
Be prepared, get a Cargol tubeless puncture repair kit right now before you head out on your next adventure. Cargol GK013 includes heavy duty tools and a pouch as well as Cargol Turn & Go plugs, rope plugs, and three Co2 bottles with straight and 90-degree adaptors. Get yourself off the side of the road faster and safely back on the road again with this great Cargol combo kit. Ask for Grypp Cargol kits at better bike shops, or see kenma.com.au to check out the online shop.
Carese II Touring jacket - $950
Outer shell made from DuPont Cordura 500Denier (100% polyamide) featuring 3D air mesh panels (100% polyester) in back to promote air circulation, Coolmax breathable mesh inner lining (100% polyester), removable Gore-Tex 3-layer technology inner jacket which can be used attached inside or over the jacket, waterproof external pockets, internal
special feature Adventure
cellphone pocket, front air-vent zipper, waist belt, soft collar, full-length back protector can be integrated into jacket lining, air-vent zippers in front, back and arms, map/document pocket, dual arm adjustment, 3 inner pockets, 1 back pocket (magnetic closure pockets double as air vents), exclusive EN 1621-1 CE-approved Held cloverleaf Sas-Tec shoulder and elbow protectors, optional EN 1621-2 back protector, connecting zip and 3M Scotchlite reflectors. Available in four colour variants and Men’s S-5XL and ladies DS-4XL.
Torno II Touring pants - $650
Outer shell made from DuPont Cordura 500D (100% polyamide) featuring a Coolmax breathable mesh inner lining (100% polyester), removable Gore-Tex 3-layer technology, Pittards leather anti-slip seat patch, zips and Velcro at ankles, button fixtures for optional braces, 4 external pockets, air-vent zippers (magnetic closure pockets double as air vents),
stretch panels at knees, double leg adjustment, high waisted with adjustable Velcro flaps, connecting zip, 3M Scotchlite reflectors, EN 1621-1 CE-approved height-adjustable Sas-Tec 3D knee protectors, pocket for optional Held cloverleaf Sas-Tec CE-proved coccyx protector and optional hip protectors. Available in three colours, sizes S-5XL and long or short leg.
Sambia 2in1 gloves - $285
Gore-Tex gloves featuring Gore 2in1 technology (1 side waterproof, 1 side unlined), elasthane leather detailed back, highly abrasionresistant kangaroo leather palm, unlined compartment, waterproof compartment with Pique-Push-Pull lining, Gore-Tex membrane, Velcro adjustment at wrists and cuffs, perforated hand for maximum ventilation, feel and comfort, stretch fabric panels on back, special leather at finger which allows smartphone
RIDE IT TO THE LIMIT
Motorrad Garage has all the gear from SW-Motech and other leading brands to fully accessorise your ride whether it’s BMW’s leading adventure bike or any other bike.
Jump online at motorradgarage.com.au to see the full list of bike specific accessories available for your ride and a huge range of additional gear designed to complement any bike.
FOOT PEGS
special feature Adventure
operation, visor wiper, hard plastic knuckle protection, ball of thumb reinforced with SuperFabric brand material, reinforced edge of hand, side of hand has hard plastic protection and 3M Scotchlire reflectors. Available in black, black/ grey and sizes 7-12.
Sambia gloves - $145
Outer shell made from highly abrasion-resistant and tactile kangaroo leather palm featuring spandex (95% polyamide, 5% elastane), leather detailed back, colourfast and sweatproof lining, Velcro adjustment at cuffs, air-vents on fingers, perforated finger side walls protection, hard plastic knuckle protection and Superfabric reinforcement on edge of hand. Available in black, black/grey/ red and sizes 7-12.
BMW MOTORRAD
www.bmwmotorrad.com.au or your local dealer
AllRound Boots - $340
The name says it all. With this
rugged touring boot, new riders can explore far-flung places all year round. It offers maximum protection against the wind and rain thanks to the breathable Gore-Tex membrane and a robust material blend of cowhide and Cordura.
Boulder Jacket - $740
Whether in the spring, summer or autumn, and whether for everyday or any other day, if you need a casual jacket, look no further than the Boulder. Its air vent system ensures proper air circulation, and if the weather takes a turn for the worse, its removable insert also provides protection against the wind and rain.
ANDY STRAPZ
www.andystrapz.com
Ph: 03 9786 3445
18in1 Andy Tool - $18
“It’s not how big it is but how you use it,” says Andy. He’s sourced this magic little combination Andy Tool, made of #420 Stainless with 48HRC hardness - it won’t rebuild a basket case resto but it might just get you out of trouble. Tightening a loose screw or bolt is often left because pulling out the tool roll can be a pain in the backside. This little jigger slips easily in a pocket, under the seat, in a tank bag or the included pouch can be slipped onto a belt.
Features: Flat Screwdriver; #2 and #3 Phillips Screwdriver; Bottle Opener; Box Cutter; 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 13 and 14mm end spanner; 4, 5, and 6mm Allen key; 1/4- and 7/16inch open end spanner. Made for in China and includes a pouch and 5 year warranty.
Avduro II panniers$468 plus freight
Made in Melbourne from tried and crashed, 17oz Aussie, Dynaproofed canvas, they are packed (pun intended, sorry) with new approaches to the existing features. The basics of the bags remain unchanged from those Andy made for himself all that time ago. If it ain’t broke…
Although the basics stood the test of time and Aussie riders, that doesn’t mean the nice little extras can’t be tweaked and improved. The side pockets are bigger with the rear closed via roll top. Front is the same mesh style of old but uses a special shock cord loop to prevent water bottles bouncing out under the most severe conditions. Crashability, one of the key design
MAGNIFICENCE.
THE ULTIM ATE HIGH PERFORM A NCE MUS CLE ROADS TER IS HERE
The all-new Rocket 3 R & Rocket 3 G T herald the genesis of an all-new mo torc ycle legend Equipped w ith an all-new 2 5 00cc Tr iple engine, the bigges t pr oduc tion mo torc ycle engine in the wor ld, deliver ing the highes t tor que of any pr oduc tion mo tor bike – 2 2 1Nm @ 4 000r pm With tr ul y imposing muscular presence and magnificent s t yle, the new Rocket 3 line-up combines the highes t level of spe cification and te chnology w ith all of Tr iumph s phenomenal handling
Find out more, visit TriumphMotorcycles com.au and stay connected online.
There are t wo magnificent models to choose fr om – the Rocket 3 R deliver ing ins tantane ous wor ld-leading tor que incredible contr ol and capabilit y, and the Rocket 3 G T, buil t to go fur ther, w ith even more comfor t and e or tless tour ing capabilit y
special feature Adventure
briefs set by Andy, has also been improved by changing the side buckles to a low profile ‘ladder loc’ buckle.
Dust proof, highly water resistant (Andy’s Linerz make a 100% waterproof system) and most importantly 100% tough.
CORSER CONCEPTS MOTORCYCLE SCHOOL
This is a motorcycle skills and balance improvement course aimed
at teaching ALL Motorcycle Riders to become safer, more confident riders. The NSW motorcycle training centre is located south of Sydney in Wollongong with their course helping you focus on improving your cornering techniques for safety and speed while improving your abilities going into a corner, getting out of a corner, and if need be, past the competition.
Corser Concepts offer motorcycle lessons to everyone from the complete novice who simply wants improved confidence, to the more advanced rider who wants to learn the art of sliding.
All of their motorcycle training schools are held in a safe, controlled, fun environment on board light, nimble 125cc 4 stroke motorcycles with experienced instructors who are devoted to helping you gain confidence, improve your skills and become a better safer rider.
Get in touch - Dale Corser, Motorcycle coach. Ph/Fax +61 2 42975587, Mobile: 0414 552781, www.corserconcepts motorcycleschool.com or Info@corserconcepts motorcycleschool.com .
www.linkint.com.au
Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR – From $169
Designed specifically for the latest generation of adventure, dual purpose and Enduro bikes, Pirelli’s Scorpion Rally STR manages to blend all the benefits of a rally competition tyre with that of an enduro D.O.T tyre. The Rally STR balances off road performance with excellent handling, grip and stability on the road.
• Compound high in silica content providing excellent grip in any conditions of use and high mileage.
• Street type profiles and structure to guarantee top
notch handling on the road
• Innovative tread pattern to provide both traction on dirt roads and stability on asphalt.
TCX Drifter Boots - $469
This boot is rugged! Built to take on the roughest of terrain, yet comfortable, easy to put on and take off, and durable. Of course, the
Drifter is not only rugged, durable, comfortable and great looking, it’s safe. CE-certified to the highest European standard, with protection wherever a full-on Adventure rider needs it – especially in the ankle, heel and toe areas.
Featuring a vintage leather upper with padded front and rear microfi bre overlays to increase the level of comfort, a suede leather heat guard and high impact resistant
Polyurethane shin plates, the Drifter also looks after your shins and calves, while the commando-style soles offer grip and security even in the toughest conditions.
Comfort is aided by three 6060 aircraft quality aluminium buckles with micro-adjustable closing straps, a leather shift pad and replaceable anatomic inner soles.
The CE-Certified TCX Drifter
Waterproof is available in Vintage Brown, sizes 36-48 Euro and 3.5-13 US.
SPECIAL FEATURE Adventure
AGV AX9 Helmet - $649 - $849
Lightness, comfort and adaptability reach the highest technological level in the AGV AX9. Its superior modularity allows 4 different configurations, simply removing the redesigned peak and the ultra-panoramic visor.
The lightweight construction of the Carbon+Aramid+Glassfibre shell provides AGV highest safety standards, while the premium interior is water resistant and extremely comfortable. Aerodynamics and ventilation reach a new standard thanks to new extractors and the new adjustable chin guard port that can direct internal air flows where the rider needs it. Integrated Ventilation System with 3 large front vents and 2 rear extractors hollowed in the shell which direct air to the rider’s head. All vents are adjustable.
Internal defl ector on the chin guard air vent to direct air to the chin or to the visor; chin guard air vent is removable without tools. Removable nose guard. Max ventilation grid installed under the air vent.
Shell in Carbon-Aramidic-Fiberglass is engineered in 3 shell sizes with 4-density EPS structure developed in 4 sizes. Interiors construction is engineered to allow an embracing, pressure-free fit and to reduce the noise inside the helmet. Removable wind protector.
The interior of the helmet is designed to offer the highest riding comfort. All parts are easily removable and washable.
Neck roll: Shalimar and Nabuk fabric with water resistant treatment prevents
water from being channelled inside the helmet. Cheek pads: Ritmo fabric with Sanitized (antibacterial protection), 2Dry (moisture wicking) and Microsense (premium skin comfort and wearing fluidity) treatments. Crown pad: Shalimar with the same treatments listed for cheek pads.
Your body heat and the surrounding temperature cause the water inside the cool vest to vaporize. This creates a significant cooling effect of body temperature by up to 15 degrees C while keeping the rider totally dry. Holds 500ml of room temp tap water which lasts up to 3 days between refills.
Macna Velocity Mesh Jacket - $229.95
Full mesh ventilation with Ripstop Nylon on impact areas. This all new
European jacket is lightweight and very comfortable to wear, built and certified to CE standard and fitted with Betac CE shoulder and elbow armour (with back protector armour pocket). Two colour options in sizes Small thru 3XL.
KAWASAKI www.kawasaki.com.au or your local dealer
Tank Bag - $155
Convenient storage for touring and daily use. Tank bag is manufactured from ballistic Nylon.
Saddle Bag - $366.99
Need extra storage for the big adventure and a short trip across town? These saddle bags feature a unique vinyl finish that is durable and water-resistant. Saddle bag dimensions 406mmL x 279mmW x 178mm H.
Kawasaki RPM Hoodie - $69
Black cotton Fashion Hoodie featuring great softness and comfort for everyday wear, utilising 340gsm cotton polyester blend, Kangaroo pocket, attractive Plastisol print, Kawasaki
Macna Cool Vest Dry Evo - $249.95
special feature Adventure
logo across the back, great for work or play on or off the track. Sizes from XS - 5XL.
CASSONS
www.cassons.com.au
ONeal Sierra WP Pro$299.95 - $319.95
Adventure boot that is designed and constructed to give the perfect balance between flexibility and structural integrity, featuring innovative, lightweight upper combines technical microfiber plus protective PU reinforced padded parts, soft technical gaiter helps seal out excessive water and dirt, easy entry polyester lining, rubber outsole perfectly integrated to the upper with a special anti-slip design, front panel features a dual closure system with micrometric adjustable straps, 2 metal quick-action buckles, hook and loop closure flap and a gusseted inner for a precise
fit and easy to operate, inner shin guard protector to reduce front-on impacts, hyper extensions and offer great flex control, injected TPU heel and ankle protector offer impact resistance and prevent against hyper extension and lateral flex, injected TPU shin-protector and shift plate plus 3D moulded toe-protector, 2mm polypropylene lasting board with steel shank, kick-start ready but also comfy to walk in, anatomically shaped heel cup with TPU heel protector in carbon look, moulded inner ankle padding to lessen impacts and offer superb comfort, innovative, ergonomic removable 3D moulded foot-bed with anti-perspiration treatment, microfibre burn guard for exhaust heat protection and ergonomic removable EVA footbed. Available in Black or Brown and sizes 40-49.
Arai XD4 Helmet
The latest adventure helmet from Arai features new exhaust ports added to the top diffuser vents which nearly double the airflow while using the same (4) 10mm vent holes in the helmet shell. New shell shape for better aerodynamic stability at higher street speeds, works in concert with the high-flow peak and new side cowl vents. New chin vent with more intake ports. Larger sculpted side cowl vents improve ventilation efficiency as well as helmet stability at higher speeds. The 5mm peel-away temple pads add another level of customization, providing a little extra width when
needed. Enhanced customer benefits like micro fitment interior, without the need to purchase extra interior components. Fully removable/ replaceable/washable interior. DryCool technology keeps you dry & cool for greater comfort. New FCS (Facial Contour Support) cheek pad design. The all new XD-4 now comes standard with the Visor fitted with Pinlock Posts and Arai has added its trademark Brow Vents to the new XD4 faceshield, providing airflow to the temples. Available in a variety of colours and sizes XS-2XL.
Dainese X-Tourer D-Dry Jacket - $649.95
The Dainese X-Tourer D-Dry jacket combines versatility, comfort and all-weather protection in a unique 3-layers touring garment. The perfect choice to enjoy the riding journey, every part of the year. The removable and packable 20,000 mm waterproof D-Dry membrane provides protection on rainy days, while being highly breathable. The Inner thermal jacket can be worn separately to keep the rider warm off the bike. The ventilation system allows adjustment for comfort whatever the weather conditions. Dainese safety standards are assured by D-Stone inserts on high impact areas and removable composite protectors on shoulders and elbows. It’s always the right season for Adventure. Available in a variety of colours and sizes. D
–From $799.95
test Adventure Special Feature
Ducati Multistrada 1260 eNDurO
Getting seriously filthy WORDS/ph O t OS stuart
ThE LatESt Multistrada Enduro has just hit the market and despite what I thought in the beginning –that it was just fitted with the larger 1260 engine and a new dash - there’s so much more to this new Enduro version. I headed out in the pouring rain and mega slippery tracks to give it a whirl.
The main changes you don’t see with the new Enduro are in the chassis and riding position. The standard seat height has been reduced to 860mm (versus 870mm on the Enduro Pro which this bike replaces). Ducati does offer lower (840mm) and taller (880mm) accessory seats for those shorter or longer in the legs.
The steering head is angle is now 25-degrees with 112mm of trail, which gives the new Enduro a more ‘relaxed feel’ and makes it easier to manoeuvrer out in the scrub. This was never more desirable than on the crappy day I chose to hit the dirt. In fact I’m thankful for the more relaxed nature as I probably would have hit the dirt for real had I been on something more nervous. The trails had their first bit of rain for many months and they turned to slippery mush – not ideal for a big adventure bike.
The seating position sees the foot pegs 10mm lower and the handlebar 30mm lower. This is great for the average sized rider, not so my tall frame. Essentially Ducati has removed the bar riser that was on the Enduro Pro. It is still available as an accessory. The change has made the Enduro awesome as a sit down touring bike for just about any sized riders, but once you stand up in the dirt only those under 6-foot tall will remain with a smile on their dial, anyone above this will be wanting that riser.
Suspension travel has also been reduced, by 15mm and in all honesty I didn’t notice the difference. It comes down to the new evolution of the electronic suspension.
The DSS Evo (Ducati Skyhook Suspension) has been reprogrammed and takes feedback from the same Bosch six-axis inertial measurement unit (IMU) that forms the heart of the ABS, traction control and wheelie control systems. With all those acronyms, the Enduro is clever enough to respond to the surface it’s on and adjust the damping settings as you ride. The result is a bike that is supple and compliant at low speed, but sharpens up as the pace increases. On drops or jumps, it actually senses that it is off the ground and stiffens up ready for landings. You can feel the system at work, with a noticeable difference in the way the bike responds as you switch from smoother gravel tracks to rough sections or drops. You can dial in the suspension through the new dash (shared with the Diavel 1260 and Panigale V4) from single rider to rider with luggage, two-up and twoup with luggage. This can all be done while riding and you will feel the shock pumping up or going down depending on what you’re switching from and to. Alloy rims round out the rolling chassis with a 120/70/R19 up front and a 170/60/R17 out back, and they come lined with Pirelli’s Scorpion Trail II hoops. The stock wheels see the spokes on the outside of the tyre, which means they are tubeless.
A pair of four-pot Brembo Monobloc M4.32 calipers bite dual 320 mm discs to do the heavy work with Bosch Cornering ABS on call if you need it. You can set it up to prevent rear-wheel lift-up from strong front brake operation, or allow it
can also be set to hold on a grade of up to 24.5-degrees via the Vehicle Hold Control so you can have both feet on the ground for stability and not have to worry about the rear brake.
More power is often not what people think is needed in the dirt but I’ve never heard anyone riding a bike with an abundance of it complain. The new 1260 engine has an eye-rolling 116.4kW and 128Nm to keep you on your toes but as much as you might think this would be a wild bull to ride, you’d be wrong. Ducati has ‘softened’ the power delivery yet has 17% more torque in the lowmid rev range to help give you traction in all modes other than Sport. I like a strong hit of power so I set the Enduro in Sport for the dirt so I could hang it out and get my thrills. I did change to Enduro mode for a while and liked the easy nature of this power delivery. If I was doing a long trip it’s probably where I’d be set – no use tearing through rear tyres for some cheap thrills!
The revisions in power has come via DVT (Desmodromic Variable Timing), resulting in the engine responding well from anywhere in the rev range. Not only does this mean less time skipping up and down the gearbox, but you also have the ability to pull a higher gear and get the bike to hook up better in low-traction situations. Where the new engine excels on the road is cruising from corner to corner, holding the same gear and riding
also means better
the full width of the rev range. In third gear, you can comfortably let the revs drop right down below 2000 rpm and when you roll back on, the bike drives away nicely. Not having to rev the bike as much also means better fuel economy. The massive 30 litre capacity will see you with at least 450km out of a tank unless you’re really up it for the rent.
The new TFT dash is easy to read in all lighting conditions and easy to navigate – and importantly, easier to navigate than the outgoing model. I found it intuitive for someone that hasn’t read the owner’s manual or lives with it day-to-day.
As with most of the Ducati range the electronics package is extensive. The Enduro comes featured with Vehicle Hold Control (VHC), riding modes, power modes, Ducati Safety Pack (Bosch Cornering ABS + DTC – Traction Control), Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC), Ducati Cornering Lights, Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evo, Ducati quick shift (DQS) up/down, cruise control, hands-Free, backlit handlebar switches, Ducati Multimedia System (DMS), full-colour TFT display, full LED headlamp and auto-off indicators. Phew! That’s a lot and it’s all there to help you enjoy yourself.
The bike we rode came with some useful accessories. First is the short screen, which remains adjustable, second were the Touratech crash bars and finally Barkbuster frames to protect those valuable indicator/handguards. Other accessories can see you kitting out the Enduro for just about whatever you want from travel to performance to bling.
I was impressed with the Ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro Pro I rode last year but the new 1260 Enduro has stepped up the game, it’s a serious player in the big boy adventure market. D
BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston cornering ABS calipers. Rear, 265mm disc, two-piston cornering ABS caliper.
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 6.7 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 447km
COLOURS: Sand, Ducati Red
VERDICT: SERIOUS ABOUT ADVENTURE TOURING
The brakes
TnT135 Benelli LAUNCH
WORDS STUART PHOTOS BEnElli AUSTRAliA
The craze of mini/pocket style bikes is going bananas around the world and to claim a good place, Benelli has just introduced the TnT version of its bike with a larger 135cc engine (up from 125). A small increase on paper but how does this relate to how it rolls out on the street? I headed to Melbourne to find out and to give the new TnT135 some stick around Oakleigh Go-Kart track.
Designed to be an urban pocket rocket the new TnT135 certainly is a cut above the outgoing 125 model. This was revealed on the road as the 135 could easily pull away from tintops at traffic lights, whereas the 125 would struggle.
The larger engine capacity means that the TnT135 is the most powerful bike in its class. Main competition comes via the Honda Grom and Kawasaki Z125 Pro. The TnT135 easily out accelerates these two bikes but tops out fairly early in fifth gear. I achieved an indicated (on the stylish dash) 112km/h with one of the other launch participants seeing 117. This is similar to the Z125, whereas on the Grom I’ve seen 125 on the dial. This is all irrelevant, really, as you’re not
going to be reaching speeds like this commuting.
This is where the TnT135 really comes into its own. Being able to have that added ‘defensiveness’ in your riding by being able to pull away from car drivers makes it safer to ride. You’ll also get more street cred from car drivers as this little pocket rocket zips away from them.
Styling hasn’t changed too much from the outgoing 125 and I’ve always considered the TnT to be just like an MV Agusta Brutale, created just like sticking that fine woollen jumper in the dryer, and producing a miniature!
Handling is excellent for a bike and price ($3990 ride away) like this. The trellis steel frame gives stability and the 41mm forks give plenty of feel and grip – even with my elephant like size plonked on the seat. The only real limitation to consider here are the rubbish tyres fitted – think about changing them for more grip when the time comes. The tyres only really became an issue when we got to roar around Oakleigh go-kart track. Fuelled by names like Cam Donald, Steve Martin, Chas Hern (and me) the racing was hot to trot. The ‘World Benelli
Explosive fun
Championship Cup’ was on for young and old with pattering front tyres while backing it in sideways to try and get a better run out of the corners. The lead changed many times throughout the ‘race’ with Chas leading on the last lap.
I took a very late lunge which ran Chas and me wide, gifting Cam the ‘Cup’.
Sadly there was no real cup, just the banter that goes with having won.
Flogging the TnT135 around a go-kart track was of course a barrel of fun but it also showed how tough the little bike can be. The engine handled every last rev on the limiter and the frame and suspension never
faulted. Braking was up to the task as well and never faded.
Accessories are limited but tasty with a selection of anodised parts to fit.
Benelli has done an awesome job with the TnT135 – it’s fun, agile and turns heads. Isn’t that what everyone wants from their bike? D
SPECS
PRICE: $3990 (ride away)
WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance
SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 8000km or 12 months
ENGINE: Air-cooled single cylinder, 4-stroke, SOHC, 4 valves
Great Dividing Range, VIC WORDS STUART PHOTOS VARIOUS
AS OUR SPECIAL feature this month is about adventure touring, we decided to get you dirty and give you a chance to test out all those new products you just bought!
This route can be easy or you can mix in the endless amount of more difficult trails that run off this ‘main’ route to really get as filthy as you like. Bear in mind, during winter months there can be snow, making the trails rather slippery and, if it’s deep enough, nearly impassable.
Depending on where you’re coming from, you can either start at Heyfield from the east or Warburton to the west.
HEYFIELD
Heyfi eld, originally named, “Hayfi eld” is a quiet rural town which has been partly sustained by
the reliable water supply from the Glenmaggie Reservoir. In 1841
James McFarlane selected a pastoral run in the area and named the district ‘Hayfi eld’ after recording in his journal that it looked “like a fi eld of waving corn”.
Things to see and do include the Victorian Timber Workers Memorial located in Lions Park between Mary Street (the town’s main street) and George Street, Heyfi eld Wetlands and Information Centre, located at 1a Macfarlane Street and the Gippsland Plains Rail Trail, which extends from Stratford to Traralgon, a distance of 67km.
LICOLA
Licola is unique. It is the only privately owned village in Victoria and claims to be the only privately
owned village in Australia (they mustn’t have heard of Yerranderie?). As well, it is the only town in Victoria not connected to the state electricity grid. It is a sleepy little village with a general store, a camp ground and a couple of houses, which is located beside the Macalister River. The village generates its own power, treats its own water (from the river) and disposes of its own waste.
JAMIESON
Jamieson is a small and captivatingly charming historic village which lies at the confluence of the Goulburn and Jamieson Rivers. It is located in a beautiful valley which is surrounded by densely-covered mountains at the south-eastern corner of Lake Eildon. The town comes alive during holidays
www.hemamaps.com.au
Fuel – Heyfield, Jamieson, Woods Point, Warburton Distance – 304km
Head north out of Heyfield on Licola Road where the bitumen soon turns to dirt. Once you’ve passed through Licola the same road is named Jamieson-Licola Road which you need to follow all the way to Jamieson. In Jamieson, navigate your way (almost impossible to get lost) onto Mansfield-Woods Point Road and head south to Woods Point. I’ve always considered Woods Point to be one of those long lost towns where zombies come out to try and grab the fresh meat rolling into town – you’ll understand what I mean when you get there! LOL!
A few kilometres past Woods Point you come to a T or Y type of intersection – stay right and continue heading west on Warburton-Woods Point Road. Around the 40km mark you need to turn left onto Warburton-Woods Point Road to get south and across to Warburton. This intersection can also be known as Cumberland Junction. Pretty hard to get lost from here as you make your way into Warburton for a freshen up and head out for a feed.
OPTIONS
There are so many trails off this main route that we could fill half the magazine with them, so do some research if you’re looking for something a little more difficult along the way but please remember this is a lengthy route and will chew up most of your day. I recommend getting to Warburton, staying overnight and heading back out the next day to get even more filthy.
when crowds arrive to enjoy waterskiing, power-boating, bushwalking and fishing in Eildon National Park and camping and gold panning along the banks of the Goulburn and Jamieson Rivers.
Things to see and do include Jamieson and District Historical Museum, located in the town’s old Courthouse (see above), a National Estate and Victorian Heritage Listed site, the Historical Museum is open from 10am - 4pm weekends and public holidays from November to Easter. And, The Island - if you cross over Foots Bridge, on the western side of town, you can access a small tree-covered peninsula known as ‘The Island’ which lies at the junction of the Goulburn and Jamieson Rivers. The apple and fruit trees are remnants of an orchard planted in the 1860s by the town’s fi rst doctor, a Dr Nash.
WOODS POINT
The town began as a general store built by Henry Wood, to service the gold diggings around the recently discovered Morning Star Reef. Wood’s Point Post Offi ce opened on
1 December 1862. By 1864, only three years after the discovery of the gold reef, the area had become a thriving town with 36 hotels – hard to believe when you ride through there now!
The town now serves as a hub for recreational trail-bike and off-road four-wheel drive activities and contains one hotel (serves not a bad parma) and one general store/petrol station.
MATLOCK
The town began after gold was discovered in 1863, but for this route, just serves as a landmark.
MCADAMS GAP
If you want to stay somewhere different, then McAdams Gap is the place to be. There’s a very small pub perched on the top of a hill with a huge VB logo painted on the roof. Built around a large boiler, it is a warm and cosy escape from the cold (if you’re riding through here in the winter) where you can still enjoy a beverage or two. The walls are lined with interesting trinkets and
memorabilia that are worth taking time to check out. The views here are spectacular and on a clear day, you would be forgiven for feeling like you’re the only person on the top of the world. Accommodation can handle most sized groups. Call them to fi nd out - 03 5777 8223.
WARBURTON
Warburton is a quiet, attractive and charming old gold mining town which wanders along the hillside beside the upper reaches of the Yarra River. In the past it was a town driven primarily by the timber industry.
Things to see and do include the Warburton Visitor Information Centre: it is rare that a Visitor Information Centre is part of the ‘things to do’ in a town but the Warburton Centre, positioned on the hill above the main street, is immediately distinguishable because of the huge, working water wheel near its entrance. This is also where you’ll fi nd everything else to see and do around Warburton, with some attractions right outside the door, like the murals and other sights. D
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie…Bike or Hike words/photos Ashlee De B A kker
If YoU haD SaT Me down and told me how the 2019 Roof of the World’ tour with Aussie Bike or Hike would change my perspective on life…. I probably wouldn’t have believed you. Or even laughed at you.
This trip was only the second time I have ridden abroad you could say that I’m a bit of a ‘newb.’ The first was in the comparatively civilised USA, so probably doesn’t rate a mention. Let’s just say you could consider me
an ‘adventure’ first timer and quite unprepared for what lay ahead. My riding background certainly isn’t lengthy. I fell in love with motorcycling in 2014 and began racing the following year. I met Alex Cudlin from Aussie Bike or Hike in 2016 at the track and he eventually became my coach. But despite being coached by a World Endurance Champion, my experience in off road conditions really was non-existent. This trip was just what I needed, a
chance to experience a different kind of motorcycling, worlds apart from a race track. Never in a million years would I have attempted to do this trip on my own, let alone attempt the highest motorable pass in THE WORLD! Alex and Shane Cudlin have been an absolute wealth of knowledge and experience. They managed to get this road rider through some of the toughest roads and trickiest conditions in India. Many, many thanks for the insane, magical and crazy
experience; I’ll never forget.
Who would have thought that I would be trying to get over my post-holiday depression by looking at adventure bikes!
DAY 1: DELHI
On day one, met up with everyone including our fearless local guide Tony or ‘T-Bone’ as he became affectionately known. Due to unforeseen circumstances I ended crashing an all boys trip by being the only lady. I wasn’t too concerned and the lads were good sports about it. That first day we headed straight out to a local market to get amongst life in Delhi. I had been forewarned that India is quite confronting. Many people are totally gobsmacked for a day or so. I’d have to agree. Truly, words can’t describe Delhi to anyone who hasn’t been there. From day one, I was very aware just how easy we have it in Australia.
DAY 2 – DELHI TO CHANDIGARH, THEN TO ANDAPUR SAHIB
We set out on a three hour train ride to Chandigarh where the mighty Royal Enfield Bullets awaited our arrival. Prior to departure, we got right with the Gods. Mala adorned our Enfields, incense was burnt and after we were appropriately attired with a scarf, a pooja (prayer) was delivered by Tony who asked for a safe trip for all, well-being and good decisions while riding.
We then set out onto the streets of Chandigarh in a mere 46 degrees. First time ever I have elected not to ride in a jacket. I put it on, then took it off. The heat was just unbearable, this turned out to be a wise decision as I started to feel a little strange by the first fuel stop. I noticed the first signs of heat stroke. Despite heat, I had goose bumps and my skin was cold to touch. We got out onto the freeway and I was hopeful that getting on the move with the wind in my face I’d be fine. I went downhill fast, at the next stop I couldn’t stay on my feet. Lucky for me, the support van had AC, lollies, electrolytes and a little break was just what I needed. Heatstroke 1, Ash 0. Not a great start.
Between you and me, I’ll admit that on that first day, had there been an airport
in the vicinity, I might have taken Eddie the Enfield there. The Princess in me was secretly thinking, ‘What have you gotten yourself into?’
After a little ride in the van, a truck load of electrolytes and sugar I was sorted and ready to get back on the bike. I finished the day in much better spirits with a ride to Anand At Satuj, Punjab.
DAY 3 - ANDAPOUR SAHIB – MANDI
Our day started with a short ride to a Sikh Temple, Andapour. The Aussies were well received by locals at their place of worship. The sounds of prayer and seeing local ladies in colourful saris coming to the temple was amazing.
Early on I became aware that seeing a white woman on a motorcycle is somewhat unusual in India. I had babies thrust into my arms and families came and posed beside me for photographs. There was furious waving from car loads of women when they saw me near the bike.
En-route to Mandi, the group clocked up 142km which doesn’t sound like much but riding in India requires your undivided attention. I also got my first real taste of the ‘road rules’ in India:
- Your lane is not yours... You must share freely share with other cars, people, monkeys and revered horned beasts... they are above humans and they know it.
- That there is no such thing as a blind corner, anytime is an acceptable time to overtake.
- Flesh gives way to machinery – You should expect any vehicle to pull straight out in front of you.
- The horn is not an offensive weapon in India, it is an acceptable means of communication.
DAY 4 - MANDI TO MANALI
Twisty roads and amazing views were the order of the day and it was our first real taste of the mountains. We saw monkeys, herds of goats and working horses loaded up with packs.
The first challenge was the Aut tunnel, located in India’s northern Himachal Pradesh state, the Aut has a reputation for being one of the most dangerous tunnels in the world. The air was thick with diesel fumes which
made for generally poor visibility and I had a greasy residue on my visor after travelling 2.6km!
We then passed through some India style road works. Wet muddy, slippery dirt roads complete with gigantic potholes. For someone with little experience on the dirt, the roads in India were initially challenging. It was a case of learn fast!!! Apparently rear brake is your friend, the front not so much!!
We spent the night in Johnsons Lodge in Manali. With a well-earned beer in hand we enjoyed a magnificent view of snow covered mountain tops.
DAY 5: MANALI TO JISPA
An offensive 5:30am start got us on the road bright and early up to Rohtang Pass. Initial part of the pass made for challenging riding as we passed through melting glaciers which caused landslides and created some very muddy road which I managed to negotiate with a new level of confidence.
Riding up to the Rohtang Pass there were walls of snow on each side of the road. As I rounded the last bend I got pelted with snowballs! A few happy snaps later and we were off again descending into the Lahaul Valley. The roads improved dramatically and we got stuck into some twisting roads with stunning views. The scale of near vertical mountains and valleys below simply cannot be captured in photographs. They just don’t do the scale of the place justice.
True to form, I was again one to provide the day’s entertainment. I managed to get stuck in the middle of a nullah. A nullah is a melting glacier creating a water crossing over the road. In this case, the water had created a subsidence of the underlying road surface which was about 3 feet deep. I was one of the last to cross which provided additional time for the already assembled audience to gain a good vantage point. More importantly, there was more time to devise a plan for crossing with my dignity intact.
As ‘Eddie’ and I set off, confidence was high. But alas, three quarters of the way through, ‘Eddie’s’ front wheel got caught between two large rocks which brought us to an abrupt halt. I’m pleased
to report that I didn’t drop the bike. But I needed extraction from the freezing, knee height water courtesy of some helpful locals There may or may not have been some girlish shrieking!
DAY 6: JISPA TO SARCHU
The road up to Barachala La is winding and with only a single lane carved out in the snow drifts makes for an interesting ride. We saw cars, right up against walls of snow and trucks squeezing past with millimetres to spare.
We continued on to our second highest pass which was Barachala La. The pass is situated along the Leh-Manali Highway connecting the Lahaul district in Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh in the Jammu and Kashmir region. At an elevation of 16,050ft or 4892mtrs, just moving around was hard work!!
We spent our first night ‘glamping’ in the valley located at Sarchu. With towering mountains all around us and a temperature of -12deg c, the prospect of showering with a bucket, didn’t appeal. It was around this time that the Princess officially left the building as I contemplated just sleeping in my ride gear!
DAY 7: SARCHU TO LEH
A super early start at 5:30am in subzero temperatures was not for the faint hearted: it was absolutely freezing. But you get that in the Himalayas! So with two layers of thermals, two jumpers and yak socks (yes they are awesome and best 200 Rupees I’ve ever spent!!) I waddled over to Eddie to see that he was covered in ice and not particularly impressed by the early start either.
So the day started off in an exciting fashion as black ice got the better of 6 bikes in the group. For once, I managed to avoid the mischief. Thankfully no one was hurt, just a ‘that’ll wake ya up in the mornin’ kind of deal. Secretly, I patted myself on the back for keeping Eddie upright. These Royal Enfields are relatively indestructible beasts as I was about to find out. But we will get to that. After that minor incident, we got stuck into the day with our first climb, the 21 steep Gata Loop hairpins. Well If you don’t like hairpins, you certainly must change your attitude here. When I say
hairpin, I mean steep uphill or downhill gradient which makes the 5km/h ones at home look like nothing. We continued on to Nakee La pass up to an elevation of 4700 metres. Somewhere along here along the descent, I managed to run afoul of some ice and down I went. That will teach me; just 5 minutes earlier I had been internally congratulating myself on the improvement in my off road skills! Nothing major, just needed extraction by Shane Cudlin who was performing ‘tail end Charlie’ duties. Dusted oneself off as well as one could (given it’s mud) and off we went again. Into some crazy road works and deep gravel. Now I learnt yesterday that deep gravel is not my friend. I found that steering is near impossible and I was later told that it helps to sit a little further back. I’m also told that momentum is also helpful and probably contrary to all my instincts. After a few very minor gravel incidents I elected a self-imposed ‘time out’ in the van for an hour to gather myself. Now what was I saying about princesses? I was relieved to find that the general consensus was that it had been a tough morning of riding.
We then headed into Tanglang La which looks like something out of an alien landscape. It’s the third highest pass in the world, 5300m above sea level! Again I was feeling the altitude. The gentle tingling gets stronger the higher you go and I was starting to feel like a fizzy soft drink.
We then descended to a mere 3500m to Leh where we had a rest day. A welcome break after 250km. Let’s just say, I didn’t even make it to dinner.
DAY 8: REST DAY LEH
A rest day in Leh was a welcome break and we were all on the hunt for some much needed caffeine. It was amazing and I nearly had to share my coffee with a cow who took a great interest in my latte!
The markets were certainly the centre of activity in the town. The usual activity, food for sale and open air butchers. Certainly smelt fresh but we are talking open air!
Local regulations met that Delhi registered vehicles were not allowed into
the Jammu and Kashmir regions. So I used the opportunity to get acquainted with ‘Eddie 2.’ He was again a Royal Enfield Bullet.
DAY 9: LEH TO DIKSIT
Well Eddie 2 and I set off towards Khardung La which just happens to be the highest motorable pass in the world!!!
As you cross into different regions there are checkpoints where you have your passport inspected etc. At the check point the weather rolled in and the pass was closed for motorcycles. So most would probably have turned around but the Aussies elected to stay for a chai and I made friends with a little donkey! About an hour and a half later we were given the go ahead. All rugged up we set off up the road which was bitumen for a very short time. The rest, slippery, muddy, rocky and full of potholes. Was it a pleasant ride up there? Not really. Was it a challenge? You betcha! The whole objective was to make it to the top of Khardung La...
We were all a bit emotional at the summit with plenty of smiles and hugs. It is a whopping 5,359m (17,582 ft) above sea level. I can say that there is a real sense of achievement that comes with it. It’s no walk in the park, it’s not easy. Needless to say my fingers felt like I was a fizzing soft drink. No other altitude symptoms thankfully. We even met a few other crazy Aussies up there. Little did I know that this was going to
be the easy one of the two crossing we would make. But we will get to that. The weather started rolling in so the decision was made to get a move on and we began our descent toward Diksit. The roads were amazing and as you ride through the Shyok and Nubra Valleys the scale of the place leaves you in absolute awe.
DAY 10: DIKSIT TO LEH
We set out back to Leh via Khardung La. It quickly became evident that the weather was looking somewhat ominous. As we began our ascent, the temperature dropped well below -10 deg c. Despite wearing two sets of motorcycling gloves I could not feel my hands within a short time. Thoughts of frostbite quickly entered my head. It was one of the most challenging rides I have ever done. My hands were in agony, I couldn’t use them properly so operating the brake or clutch weren’t easy. Eddie 2 wasn’t too happy with the altitude either and point blank refused to idle or run at low revs. I managed to tough it out and get back over Khardung La pass. So I can say, that not once, but twice I have ridden the highest motorable pass in the world... Again. You know ordinary stuff.
DAY 11 & 12: LEH TO PANGONG LAKE AND RETURN
We set off from Leh and rode over the the Chang La pass (elevation is 5,360m or 17,590ft) what is claimed to be one
of highest motorable road in the world. The initial part is bitumen but the road surface goes downhill as it goes uphill from there. Potholes are epic and what is a little bit scary are the gravel and sand on the road. Accuracy is key and you are riding along on your side of the road, trying to stay in a narrow corridor of a few inches.
Then bitumen gives way to dirt and this was probably one of the most challenging roads to date. It’s very steep, slippery and bumpy. En-route we end up in a Military style traffic jam with military vehicles coming up the pass.
En-route to Pangong Lake you are surrounded by snow covered mountains with winding roads with surprise gravel filled ditches and GIGANTIC pot holes. Tricky - Yes! We were all a bit weary and glad to get to our accommodation which was our second ‘glamping’ experience right alongside Pangong Lake. We were a mere 5km from the Chinese border which would explain the military presence.
Waking up the next morning there wasn’t a breath of wind. We broke off into our little groups along a predetermined route and I rode back with Shane and Alex. We stopped along the way for some happy snaps.
Now one of my aims for the trip was to see a Yak, and now that I had seen a few along our route, the greedy part of me decided that it was now no longer enough to have seen one. I wanted to
pat one. Well, we managed to do just that near Pangong Lake and I have the photographic evidence to prove it!
DAY 13 & 14 - LEH TO LAMAYURU
Our final two days we got spoilt for road conditions: bitumen all the way, would you believe?
The scenery was like something from another planet. Absolutely no vegetation and a twisty road along a deep canyon with near vertical cliffs on both sides. The river at the bottom of the canyon is bright turquoise in colour! Very spectacular but tough on the eyes as you are riding through bright sunlight, then into the darkness created by shadows in the canyons.
En-route we stopped in at Alchi Monastery which is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh, Lamyuru and home to 150 monks. Our accommodation was the Moonland Resort, it’s right amongst the canyons. On our last day we returned to Leh, I bid farewell to both Eddies who were miraculously returned intact. Needless to say, I am somewhat pleased with
myself as we had ridden some very challenging roads.
ROOF OF THE WORLDTHE WRAP UP
I can only describe the trip as a crazy, insane and magical experience at the same time!
My riding background hasn’t involved much off road riding. I am the first to admit that the road conditions were pretty difficult even for those with off road experience. Few emerged from the trip without a story to tell. I really had no idea there would be so much off road riding on the roads. It was a case of sink or swim... or sit in the van. I’m glad I persisted, and I learnt a great deal with the help of Alex and Shane. I can now confidently ride in the dirt, on mud over rocks, through nullahs, you name it. It’s not an issue. If I had my time over, it would have been beneficial to have done some off road training to be a little more prepared. Just to take the stress out of it and make it a little safer initially.
So what did I get out of it? India is a place of competing perspectives.
Wealth and unimaginable poverty. I saw people living in conditions I could not have even imagined. Living beside railway lines underneath concrete slabs. In median strips, growing vegies to live. There are a thousand examples I could give you. It really makes you appreciate the absolute ease of Western living. So what did I get out of it? In a word, a big dose of perspective!
Tony our local guide told I’m the first lady they have ever had on their tours. I’m sure they looked on at times with curiosity and great amusement. I mention this and my lack of off road experience to demonstrate that with the right support, it can be done. I would encourage anyone to give it a go. There were some serious altitude passes. It requires planning and some know how. If anyone asked me would I do it again? Yes, in a heartbeat. Could they do it? Of course but it requires some know-how and support. The reward to compromising on the luxuries is seeing and experiencing things, not many in their life will ever have the opportunity. D
1 Weedallion St, Bribbaree T: 02 6383 2214
PUBS IN THE BUSH face any number of challenges and issues and I smugly thought I knew most of them. Then I met the pub that lost its postcode.
I rock up to the Railway Hotel at Bribbaree at the end of a day that started with three hours in the mist around Goolagong and then ended with fi erce southerly headwinds off the Alps. I’m not just looking for a warm welcome, I’m looking for warmth.
It’s very obvious very soon that I’m in the right place. I’ve arrived before what passes for the midweek afternoon rush has begun and Kim’s behind the bar with a smile and time to chat and in the corner a log fire is glowing gently with its heat filling the entire room.
I tell her I’ll grab a glass of red and
thaw at the hearth for a bit and then come and annoy her. (Once again I make a note that I should do a yarn on the best log fire bars in the country in time for next winter and when/if I do, this one’s going to figure large.)
I later find out just why it’s so damn effective: there’s an small electric fan out the back connected to a long pipe that feeds up through the bottom of the fire place and under the log tray. There it splits into a manifold of 6 smaller pipes that run up the back of the hearth and then out across the top of the fireplace and stop at the front of the chimney.
The air that’s been heated by the fi re fl ows out of these pipes with a force that you can feel half a metre from the fi re and it fi lls the entire bar. It’s bloody brilliant and I’m toasty in minutes.
Kim, along with husband Greg and one of her five kids, Jesse, bought the place in 2012. They’d spent a lot of time and a lot of dollars in the pub over the years having many memorable nights not all of which can now be remembered. Greg and Jesse worked together as brickies and as they laboured away would speak of their dreams and hopes. Greg’s was always to buy the Bribbaree Pub.
“I was running a women’s refuge in Young at the time and they used to tell me about
these chats whilst laying bricks. So anyway I was turning 50 and told them we weren’t getting any younger and if that was his dream he should do it.”
One of Kim’s other sons, Jake, was mates with the kids of the pub’s owners so they all sat down and pretty smoothly became publicans. Unlike a few pubs I’ve been in recently this wasn’t a rescue job – the place was running okay, just in need of a bit of fresh blood.
“There’s only 40 or 50 people in the village here and we’re now the only place in town. The butcher shop’s gone, the newsagent’s gone, both the banks have long gone but we like to think that the pub’s very important to the community that’s left.”
There’s no machine gambling in the pub, no TAB, no Keno and no pokies:
“Running a women’s refuge you see very clearly what damage pokies can do to families and we are a small village here and we have a responsibility to look after our community and I don’t think they create great habits. But we do have a pool comp and we have a tipping comp and that’s the sort of gambling we like, because it’s social and that’s what we’re about - connecting with each other.”
Jesse’s partner Annabel rocks up with their daughter Evelyn on her hip after a day’s work at a salon in Young. She mucks in for about an hour to give Jesse, who’s been laying bricks at
e Railway Hotel, Bribbaree
a job up in Grenfell, a chance to catch his breath before his evening shift.
It’s a Wednesday and the pub only serves dinner Thursday to Saturday (lunches on Friday and Saturday) and it seems Annabel’s major focus is getting me a feed. She’s doing lasagne for Jesse and herself, would I be happy with that?
“Damn right!” I tell her as a small bloke with a big jacket, hair that screams it’s blowing a gale outside and a trimmed beard just starting to show the glimmers of silver, comes through the door with two others.
I’m about to see just how connected this pub is with the community.
Tony’s one of the honchos from Rinoldi Pasta based in Melbourne but with a fl our mill in Young. He and his colleagues are in Bribbaree to talk with local grain growers about their philosophy of paddock to plate transparency, accountability and sustainability.
“We come here to talk with the locals and to share our company’s ethics and expectations so that when these growers are ready to sell their grain all the paperwork and certification is done so that if they wish
to sell it to us, then there’s no impediments.”
We talk of biscuit wheat and of soft wheat, of protein content and of the effect of drought and nutrient levels.
“And we meet the farmers at pubs like this because this is where they feel at home and we can relax, talk the business talk and then head to the bar for a drink and a feed and to really flesh out our suppliers. It’s important for us to see our partners in this as people rather than just links in a chain and meeting up in pubs like this really makes that part easier than in some, say, hall.”
Without a kelpie to herd them, about a dozen farmers straggle in randomly. One of ‘em, is Peter who’s taller than a roo fence and with hands that dwarf his beer glass and there’s Greg, a farmer who’s been here for 37 years and knows much of the story of the town.
It’s Greg who tells of the great postcode theft of ’93.
“One of the biggest blows to Bribbaree, not just to the pub but to all the people in the village was when we lost our post office in the ninety-three.
Worthy
When you’re in a pub where a repaired door carries a memorial to the blokes who broke and then paid for it to be fi xed (I wish I got to meet Rocky and Blocker!), where you’re welcomed by every person on either side of the bar, where you can actually talk with old friends and new acquaintances without shouting over race commentaries and gambling machine faux-joyful digital tinnitus, where you go up to your room at the end of a cold day’s riding and the heater’s already been turned on for you, where you can lock your bike up for the night in the beer garden and where they’ll kick you into a double bed room if it’s free even though you’ve only paid a measly 35 bucks for a single, it’s almost mean to pick holes. There’s a total of ten rooms upstairs at Bribbaree for guests, with the rest having been converted over to owners’ accommodation, and three of them open out onto a very sweet balcony. Each room has its old-school basin and an oil heater but not a lot of hooks to hang your gear.
See, when we lost the post office we also lost our postcode and when a town loses its own postcode a lot of its identity, its individuality vanish too. Now the same as Young’s. Problem is, that we have zero crime here but Young has a crime problem and insurance companies base your premiums on your postcode and the crime rates for that postcode.”
So in the stroke of some nonaccountable pen in some far off city, these people, these good people, were up for thousands of extra bucks for no reason other than the narrow short-sighted, selfish tunnel vision of superannuated comfortable zero-risk taking bureaucrats whose lives involve making decisions which will never affect themselves.
By the time all what’s coming have fronted and gone out to the dining room for the meeting, Annabel’s brought me a top looking dinner and disappeared upstairs with the bub, to be replaced by Jesse who now has time for a quiet chat.
I ask this brickie for his professional estimate of the number of bricks in the pub and he hedges and then
There’s no common room as such but you can access the kitchen for your morning brew although I didn’t see any makings for cereal or toast. For the price you hardly expect it!
There’re half a dozen beers on tap and a schooner of mid will cost you $5.60 and 20c more for full strength.
Phone reception is sketchy and there’s no Wi-Fi available so, yup, you’ll just have to talk with each other and the locals!
My only real gripe was no bloody indication which is the hot tap in the showers and so you’re wasting water in a place that truly can’t afford it. The pub is closed on Sundays so the owners can have sanity/family time. There’s dinner from Thursday to Saturday and lunch Friday and Saturday but if you’re planning to stay, organise ahead and you’ll be looked after.
This is the epitome of a country pub. It rated a comfortable 4 helmets, over 200 on the value scale and 4/5 for unique character. Very much worth a visit.
questions my guess of 14,000. Then I show him my source - a 1935 advertisement for bricklayers to build the new hotel at Bribbaree with an estimated 15,000 bricks, noting that the top blew off the place in a storm in the ‘70s (ish) and wasn’t replaced.
He chuckles, “Damn! If I’d been around then I could’ve built my own pub!”
The Railway Hotel at Bribbaree was born in 1935 as a result of community pressure for accommodation for visitors to the growing village and for the comfort and amenity of the residents.
When its license was granted as a transfer of the Railway Hotel’s at Young in October 1935 the local rag reported that, “(t)here was much jubilation in Bribbaree……(because) the absence of an hotel has… been sorely felt.”
The pub’s been filling this community’s sorely felt need ever since in a town that’s never apparently had a police station. Jesse reckons there’s been maybe three incidents since they took over and Kim’s good relationships with the Young police through her refuge work mean response is swift when needed.
Checking back through the archives I can find only one historical issue between the pub and the police
and that was in 1951 when the new publican was charged with supplying non-travellers with booze out of hours. He got off with the help of a smart young lawyer who went on to bigger things on a bigger stage, whose name was E.G. Whitlam. You may’ve heard of him.
The meeting ends and Tony and his crew head to the covered beer garden out back to cook a BBQ for the farmers. Clumps of these producers gather and discuss everything from what’s just been raised to the football on the weekend.
The fires are stoked and the warmth emanates throughout.
As I check out Jesse laughing with every customer and everyone feeling at home, my mind flashes to Mel Gibson’s blue and white faced William Wallace speech in the movie Braveheart. I can’t remember the exact words but I’m certain it went something like:
“They may take our postcode ……. but they’ll never take our community”
Ah, and how I hope he’d be right!
Full Disclosure: Annabel refused payment for the lasagne but, unlike certain motorcycle writers, I neither sought nor was offered any freebie or inducement to write positive stuff. D
Cafe directory
THE LITHGOW TIN SHED
Popular stop if you are doing a Blue Mountains loop or stopping for tucker in Lithgow 69 Bridge St, Lithgow NSW (02) 6352 1740
the way north 693/695 George Downes Dr, Kulnura NSW 02 4376 1166
NONNA & CO
INLINE4 CAFE
Best café and fully licensed restaurant on the way to Philip Island Circuit I Vista Place, Cape Woolamai Philip Island, Victoria 0427 475 681
City Laneway cafe/bar run by the original Ducati riding ace racer. York Lane behind Clarence St 02 9299 1676
Well known pitstop for those travelling through Gloucester 77 Church Street, Gloucester New South Wales 2422 02 6558 2772
ROUGE MOTORCYCLES
JERRY’S GOURMET
KITCHEN & CAFE
A great spot to meet up on
A well known fi ve-star stop for Perth people U5 4 Arrigo Street, Wangara Western Australia 6065 08 9309 2767
THE SHAGGY COW
Expectational coffee and food stop in the Southern Highlands 112 Main St Mittagong 02 4872 2966
RISING SUN WORKSHOP
You really do get to mix coffee, food and bikes in one hip place
1C Whately St Newtown, NSW 02 9550 3891
PITSTOP AT MT MEE CAFE
A great ride to a beautiful location north of Brisbane 2070a Mt Mee Rd, Ocean View, Queensland 07 342536520
GREY GUMS CAFÉ
Really the Centre of the Universe if you are travelling up The Putty 8679 Putty Road, Putty NSW 02 6579 7015
words Duncan Bennett photos Duncan an D c in D y Bennett, n ic an D Margreth Lottering
When friends asked why we were going to ride Alaska, it was appropriate to re-work the classic George Mallory 1923 quote about climbing Everest – “because we think it’s almost certainly there”. We had never really considered the endless wilderness of the most northerly US state as a motorcycling destination, particularly due to my memories of reading about early explorers in the Yukon literally
going mad with the relentless swarms of mosquitoes in summer. The likelihood of congress with huge and hungry grizzly bears didn’t add much additional comfort during the unfounded perceptions development stage, but when the opportunity to be cold and miserable and itching all over presents itself, we rarely take a backward step. Well, unless we know that’s what it will be like in advance.
Several points worked very favourably for the Compass Expeditions True North Alaska tour: firstly, our daughter is working in Canada so it enabled a visit, secondly, the tour was being led by Bayne the calm and fun Compass support vehicle driver from our Cairo to Cape Town African Expedition, and thirdly, it was a “first time” tour so we would be like Hillary and Norgay. Sure, lots of people will ride Alaska with
Compass, but to us we will always be the first.
Arriving into Anchorage just before lunchtime, we met our first companion for the trip – Patrick of Perth – while loitering around the baggage carousel. A wander about the fairly compact city centre, a coffee at the Hard Rock Café as a substitute for beer which would have caused immediate unconsciousness, and we were back at the hotel to unpack, take a walk, and try to battle through until a reasonably civilised time to have dinner, drinks, and get to bed.
Day 2 was all about cultural immersion, commencing with a wander up the road to a nearby classic American Diner for breakfast and starting the process of USA food intake calibration. Using the eggs in the pictures for benchmarking the scale, it was obvious that the standard menu meals of pancakes, waffles, hash browns, eggs, bacon, ham, sausage, biscuit (i.e. bun), and gravy with optional sides of grits, beans, and bizarrely fresh fruit needed working up to.
A trolley bus tour of Anchorage was on offer, and our guide Bracken did a great job pointing out the key features and history of the town and the surrounding areas.
An ingrained event in the history of Alaska mentioned in all the museums in
the state was the 1964 Good Friday earthquake of 9.2 magnitude – the strongest ever recorded in the US and second strongest in recorded history. The popular earthquake park just west of the Anchorage city is based on the suburb of Turnagain Heights, which slid down toward the sea and was never re-built.
After our rampant tourism, we went back to the hotel and started to meet some more of our tour group – mostly recognisable by Australian accents, lack of children, chiselled features, and bearing large beverage containers. After an emotional reunion with Bayne at the tour briefing, formal introductions were made, and general information was given by tour leader Justin.
The first ride day was of roughly 365km distance south down to Homer. Immediate scenery overload occurred, as it is virtually impossible to avoid riding toward/alongside imposing snowcovered mountain ranges in Alaska. We motored through Portage, had a brief stopover at Canyon Creek to read up on some gold mining history, lunched at Kenai Lake, paused at the Soldotna drive-thru bank, and had an excellent coffee experience along the coast of Turnagain Arm at a pro-biker establishment. A stop near Ninilchik on the beach overlooking the Arm with the
distinctive and active Iliamna Volcano and Mt Redoubt off in the distance satisfied the budding photographers, and we finished the first day with a ride past Anchor Point to Homer Spit and Land’s End Resort.
Organising a water taxi guided tour for the afternoon with Richard O’Roma and Patrick O’Perth we hit the docks. The first fauna on the list were otters, lots of otters. Otters are a lot larger than we’d thought, reaching well over a metre in length and eating a lot of seafood which makes them about as popular with commercial fishing people as a Harley rider in any situation involving human beings. Next on the fauna list were puffins, seen in group numbers rarely observed by our guide. These sightings were considered a positive harbinger for future bear sightings. However, three hours later, after staring at every inch of the magnificent coastline and mountainsides looking for bears and only the guide thinking he caught a glimpse of a black bear’s bum as it ran into the bush, we returned to Homer. Coming into Seward was scenery on steroids, with lakes, snow covered mountains, and even glaciers making the ride down to Resurrection Bay one head swivelling distraction after another. The town is named for William Seward, the US Secretary of State who in 1867
bought Alaska for $7.2 million, equivalent to 2 cents per billion mozzies which is extraordinary value.
Day 5 started with a breakfast and gathering for a trip to the Talkeetna airport for a Denali flyover. Once out in the plane and on the way, the clouds disappeared, and we were treated to some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable. The plane doesn’t go up as far as 20,000ft and therefore all the flying is below the peak of Mt Denali and through the valleys and glaciers. With universal agreement that the Denali experience had been right up there with the best ever, and after a wander about the town and a light lunch we moved onto the next activity – ziplining!
Day 6 objective was Fairbanks, considered to be the most northerly civilisation in Alaska accessible by road, a journey of about 450km. Road quality heading north past the sometimes nearly visible Denali ranges to the west was excellent.
Day 7 was the start of the real Alaska, or at least the Alaska that most people including a lot of Alaskans haven’t seen. Not far out of town the roadworks started, giving us a refresher on riding gravel roads which would comprise most of the riding surface for the following days. At Livengood the last chance to loiter in civilisation is forsaken and the
Dalton Highway begins.
The first challenge was to make it to lunch at Yukon River, with the road a mixture of bitumen and dirt. The bitumen suffers from “frost heaves” when the water under the surface freezes and expands, creating speed bumps, drop-offs, whoops, and worst of all; potholes. The dry conditions made it pleasant riding, and the gravel sections were hard packed and easy.
The rising temperature required some alteration in the number of layers worn under the jacket as we headed off north once more. The mainly hard-packed gravel continued with occasional patches of bitumen, making the speeds fairly high as we covered the 100km to the next important achievement – the Arctic Circle. As we were crossing the circle less than a week short of the summer solstice, our hopes of some cool dark nights to aid the sleeping environment were finally dashed.
Another 50km and we’d had experience of our first Dalton Highway roadworks at Gobbler’s Knob. As the highway is the heavy vehicle haulage route for the Prudhoe Bay oilfields, every effort is made to keep the surface as smooth as possible and the dust to a minimum. The roadworks crews use lots of water to get the compaction right. This makes the road notoriously slippery
when mixing in calcium chloride as a dust suppressant. Fortunately, we were all giggling about Gobbler’s Knob so didn’t get terribly focussed on the road condition, and all made it through without dramas. It was naturally broad daylight as we pulled into Coldfoot camp, famous as the major stop on the Ice Road Truckers television program. The accommodation was basic but good, and the truck stop mess hall and bar did their jobs admirably before we got to bed for a good day’s sleep in preparation for the final leg north.
Peter had volunteered to go out at second midday (12am) to see where the sun had gone, so Day 8 began with his explanation that it sort of just hovered, beaming a heavenly light on his 1200GS the entire time. A hearty breakfast of oatmeal and we were packed and ready to roll on the most important day of the trip.
For the first 40km the road was superb bitumen, then we started to get up into the Brooks Range which is the last barrier before the north slope and the tundra. A brief stop for morning refreshments at which a seagull appeared, once again proving that seagulls are literally everywhere, and we went over the top through a very scenic pass with the weather looking a bit ugly to the north.
Down we went onto the northern side, with trees suddenly a thing of the past. The major problem was the cold which headed into the 40s and ultimately the 30s Fahrenheit as we went north in the overcast and slightly drizzly conditions. Stops were made to re-layer, which resulted in thick thermals top and bottom, riding t-shirt, long sleeved shirt, Gore-Tex gloves with two inner linings, double neck warmers, and a merino beanie under the extremely tight helmet. The Coloradans had come equipped with heated vests and gloves, and soon one could see the Australians mentally calculating their size just in case an opportunity presented itself to salvage.
The road continued in the hills beside the river and the surface generally remained good, until suddenly we were beside the river and into a 10km section of roadworks. Pace slowed and the tension was palpable, a wrong move would result in a hard fall and serious laundry issues. Riding on the wrong side was suitable until a truck came up behind us, fortunately it stayed on the right side and left us alone, unfortunately it put up a fine mist spray of chocolate coloured mud which completely coated us including the visors and other important equipment for seeing. This resulted in having to open the visor to see, letting a literally arctic blast of air inside.
Soon the roadworks ended, and the speed increased on an excellent gravel road, and then the animals appeared in the form of musk oxen, caribou, arctic hare, arctic fox, and squirrels. A few stops were made for photos then we meandered along the long road through oil facility paraphernalia to reach the T-junction which signalled the end of independent riding.
Deadhorse is a bleak city of containers, industrial sheds, block buildings, dirt roads, oil and gas equipment, and lots of muddy space. Our first plan was to get fuel, then secondly get to the Prudhoe General Store which is the official end of the road, for celebratory photos. It was old-school camp living at the Deadhorse Camp; shared bathrooms are unusual in the modern world and no longer the norm in mining camps, but it made our experience a bit more gritty
and we were comfortable enough in each other’s company by now to share facilities without staring or recoiling in horror.
The slide into Day 9 completed without any intervening night, we had a tour planned to get to the coast and complete the northerly journey beyond reasonable doubt. To pass through the oil fields, we had to show our passports to the tour bus driver Cliff, who forcefully pressed home the fact that he was a security professional and not a real tour bus driver as we motored around Prudhoe Bay. Cliff was into detail and showed us how the workers live, normally a two-week on, two-week off roster. With the promise of an official certificate signed by Cliff himself, various brave members decided to take the arctic swim. With hypothermic members back on the bus, we headed away from the ultimate northern achievement, taking only photographs and leaving only footprints. And someone’s jocks.
For the return journey the weather was a vast improvement from the previous day, with clear skies and dry crisp air that wasn’t too cold. Everything looked and felt better; the road, the scenery, the caribou, the fingers, and the toes. The Brooks Range became visible to the south and east as we started off again, with numerous photo stops to take advantage of the glorious scenery that had been well hidden the previous day.
Day 10 was quite a long day’s ride down to Chena Hot Springs, so we got ourselves organised as per normal quasi-religious routines and headed off at exactly 3 weeks after sunrise. A bull moose on the edge of the road caused a momentary conniption, but it was worth it to see such an impressive beast as it bounded into the forest rather than into me.
Once back into the vicinity of Fairbanks, the world was suddenly looking normal again and we turned east on the bitumen toward the resort at Chena Hot Springs. We had ridden the Dalton Highway without serious incident and seen some incredible country, so with most of the dirt completed we were all well set for yet more spectacular scenery and wildlife in
the remaining Alaskan south. We walked into reception dirty and sweaty, but with the casual swashbuckling air of adventure motorcyclists who have achieved something special. The run-of-mill tourists checking in immediately fell back, and even those about to get the keys left the desk without taking their watering eyes off us – they could sense they were in the presence of beings so superior to them that they could only look on in hushed awe. Either that or we were a bit pongy.
Day 11 started very late; we had almost been begged by Ride Leaders Justin and Bayne to have a sleep in and do whatever we wanted. What we wanted wasn’t laundry, but Talkeetna was a week old, so the laundry bags had started to take up most of the luggage space. Less routine activities were chosen to fill in the remainder of the day; a dip in the hot springs followed by our first quad bike experience. A few drifties and other hoon-level skills were practiced, before heading back for a nice afternoon nap. Dinner was at the bar that evening, which made keeping the flow of IPA’s coming a lot easier.
Day 12 started with mooses running past the dining room just when our breakfast was served, but other team members sorted out the necessary photography. With laundry and other stuff packed and loaded into the support vehicle with help from a billion mozzies, we headed off back toward Fairbanks before getting onto the highway south. The day was a fairly short one, we headed up the Denali Highway to a lookout which showed huge views of the Alaska Range to the north.
Day 13, passing the settlements of Copperville, Silver Springs and Copper Centre, things were starting to look up for the metallurgists in the group, before taking a left turn east and heading toward Chitina, which happily also means copper in the local language. The heat was palpable in the 80s Fahrenheit, which was a bit unpleasant when not moving, but the road condition was generally good and there were only a couple of sections of deep gravel and some minor water crossings besides the thick dust.
Day 14 saw an interested party guided through the history of Kennecott, which began with discovery of a seriously rich copper deposit in 1900 by two prospectors. The very high copper grade supported development in such a remote place. The inexperienced guide got some of the mill details right and some of them wrong but we awarded full marks for trying, finished the tour and in the mounting heat headed back to the Lodge for packing, dressing, helmeting, gloving, mounting, and leaving.
We’d been warned by Bayne about the scenery heading into Valdez – relentless snow-covered peaks and steep sided valleys, and he hadn’t exaggerated. The mountain chill eased a little as we rolled down the hill, then was reintroduced through the spectacularly tight Keystone Canyon with its multitude of waterfalls dropping off the sides into the Lowe River. Gathering into sort of a group, we rolled into Valdez and found our way to the Best Western located next to the marina on the promising sounding Meals Ave. Day 15 included an early cruise on Prince William Sound, which suited
most of the tour members as we could relax and just worry about feeling seasick rather than worry about crashing or being attacked by moose/bear/gangs of squirrels out in the harsh Alaskan environment. An interesting location on the port side was Bligh Island, scene of the Exxon Valdez disaster in 1989.
Details of the incident were described by our skipper, with a major cause the drift of icebergs from the Columbia glacier that the ship was trying to avoid. We headed west to the southern side of Glacier Island, where a seal colony momentarily interested people until a humpback whale showed up and did some stuff.
Day 16 was the penultimate, with glaciers now the theme of the trip. At our lunch stop the descent into the dark world of American chocolate bar addiction was complete for some by this stage, with several of the team making trips back into the IGA for more Turtles or Butterfingers or PayDays and dealing them openly to their sticky victims.
Day 17 and it was a mere 172km back to Anchorage. The glacier theme
reached a crescendo with a stop planned to visit the Matanuska Glacier, one of few that can be reached and walked on easily. The road in was dusty and had disturbing overhanging glacial moraine cliffs, but no geotechnical dramas befell the group.
The finish was a team dinner in the hotel where speeches were made, and absolutely true and correct stories told with round after round of plain table water fuelling the laughter. A group of riders had become friends, and this story is dedicated to everyone on the first True North Alaska. The hilarity just never ended, and this trip will be very hard to beat.
Fellow riders Nic and Margreth Lottering shot some wonderful video footage and photos while on tour that have been compiled into a stunning You Tube video at: https://youtu.be/ sjw5ZTKEZSc
You can find out more about the Compass Expeditions True North: Alaska Tour on the tour web page: http://www.compassexpeditions. com/tours/true-north-alaska/ D
SNUG AS A BUG
AEROSTICH R-3 ONE PIECE SUIT PRICE – FROm $US1197
The firsT adMissiOn I have to make is that I have a crook shoulder with rotator cuff damage, which means it is painful to peg the washing out on the Hills Hoist. Raising my arms above shoulder height sends a sharp reminder of too many racing spills and operating pneumatic rock-drills while underground mining for Scheelite - neither were among my best life choices.
This makes squeezing into a leather one-piece race suit a chore (while still extremely worthwhile) and reviewing my latest American made-to-measure Aerostich R-3 suit equally difficult to comment on compared to a fit and flexible ‘normal’ dude. When I pulled it out of the FedEx box from the States and hurriedly raced to try it on, it wasn’t as easy as slipping into my favourite bunny sleeping bag. Owner of Aerostich Andy Goldfine did warn me. In fact, he asked me to really bed it in over at least six months and lots of miles to truly appreciate their award-winning
product. This highly protective suit is something I should have invested in years ago; it is that good.
This isn’t a simple ‘made of 500d Cordura-GORE-TEX suit which is 100% waterproof, breathable, has venting, reflective panels and fitted up with quality TF impact armour’ style of riding gear. That description could apply to a number of quality and equally expensive garments, but doesn’t tell a fraction of the Aerostich story.
Firstly, this is a one-piece suit you step into. You can thankfully perform this feat while standing up thanks to the two leg zippers that ‘open up’ the
suit. This is a routine that you will find easier than climbing into an Apollo spacesuit! The right-way hand leg unzips half way up the thigh while the left side in fact unzips the full length of your torso. It is a case of then stuffing in both arms and working your way past the body armour (all removable as they are Velcro-ed in and not just slipped into recessed pockets) and slipping your shoulders into position.
For the first few weeks, the tough army-grade Cordura material felt rigid and unforgiving just walking
around. It isn’t just the still new material that creates the stiffness. It is in part also the five front exterior pockets which add a double layering and bulk. The long zippers with extra rolled overed strengthening, plus the waterproofing, increase the pronounced bulk. The side pockets, which allow you to get into your jeans’ pockets, add more stitching and additional waterproofing material. All this wants wearing in.
This suit is extremely well thought out as a travel device. I went for the grey, thinking this lighter colour would be less of a heat-sink than the black but still hide a lot of soiling from the road and dirt (not me) unlike the lighter colours. By choosing the yellow (16 choices) for the double strength 1000d Cordura for the abrasion panels on the legs, elbow and shoulder area my roadsuit may just pass off as an adventure suit. The aim was also to be a little brighter out in traffic without resorting to the optional fluro colours. Still, the purpose of the suit is protection from the elements and reducing harm in the possibility of crashing on the road or while adventuring. The overall awareness of wearing this much coverage disappears once I’m moulded onto any motorcycle. The conscious awareness of wearing the ultimate in weather protection (the
Goretex layer is sewn into the entire suit) fades quickly after the first few traffic lights and the road opens up. I am fortunate to live well away from the city and a country road or freeway are a mere 15 minutes away. There is no significant flapping around by the R-3 at speed and I mean speed. After a while I felt a sense of invincibility. You would image the suit to be impregnable to fresh cooling air and that is an optical trick. Holding up the R-3 to the light reveals how breathable the material is. I can attest to its breathability now the very colder months of wintery chills are here. I need to layer up with two layers of thermals and nothing else to add bulk. Remember, this is a made to measure item and I really didn’t want a loose-fitting garment. The feeling of being warm and comfortable is a new sensation this winter. Through autumn I was unzipping all the vents to create a movement of air and helping to evacuate the hotter stale air. Up until this period of time we haven’t ventured into temperatures above 26C. I can image the best range of performance will be zero to 28C and I will leave the really hot weather to my favourite air jackets and jeans. Living near the coast just above Sydney latitudes means this is a nine month a year touring outfit. If I were a Taswegian, then maybe 10 months and if you are in Darwin then perhaps half that.
The East Coast is currently experiencing a prolonged dry spell, and this makes reporting the waterproofing of the Goretex layer a bit lame given how much our farmers need water. This will I’m sure now curse us with another 20 inches of rain in a week and I will be able to report back with happiness from our rural friends and perhaps I’m sure the Aerostich will pass the precipitation test.
For those who are more fashion conscious, Aerostich offers the two-piece Roadcrafter Classic which is fully lined and made to measure for either sex. The equivalent in my R-3 as a two-piece is the Darien set up of jacket and pants. Another line is the Cousin Jeremy suit in a one and two-piece option but made of the hipster fashionable wax cotton. It would be beneficial to jump on their website to discover the massive amount of product available for the seasoned motorcyclist from pants, bags, gloves and much more.
Now after four months I can say that wearing the R-3 and experiencing the quality and the endless thought that has gone into Aerostich, you could say I’m well and truly converted to the Aerostich way.
It’s true that the Aussie Dollar against the Greenback is far from an ideal place at the moment. Add in shipping costs and taxes (might make that trip you have always planned to the Old US of A worthwhile!) may discouraged some Aussies, but I can tell you that this kit looks like it would last 20 or 30 years of riding (ExHonda MPE boss Stuart Strickland has had his longer than that) and that is one helluvan investment which will pay dividends. I will get back to you at the end of Summer with part 2 of my spacesuit’s life.
See www.aerostich.com for more. RL-M D
SMART. COMPACT. GENIUS!
Puncture Repair Tool
Pliers, rasp, needle insertion tool, knife and 5 pre-glued plugs, all in a handy pouch.
1 Remove offending item from your tyre.
2 Use the rasp to clean out the hole.
3 Thread needle with plug, push into the hole, twist 1 ½ times before pulling out.
4 Separate the knife from tool and cut the plug flush with the tyre.
The knife slides off the tool to easily cut the plug.
For further information on this and all our products, please check our website for details.
Ride to the end of the World words/photos Richa R d Millington
Richard Millington from Motorrad Tours just couldn’t keep Patagonia a secret. As he says, it’s time to go now, or risk missing out on a unique place.
It’s a cliché, but Patagonia will take your breath away again and again. A true wilderness destination with a vast spectrum of landscapes and cultures.
Come two thousand or so kilometres south of Santiago de Chile and you’ll find Patagonia. A region which consists of the bottom third of Chile and Argentina, with the Patagonian steppe, the Argentinean Lake District and the Andes. There are iconic roads, views so good people end up veering off the highway (no really, it happened) and cultures ranging from an entire German-speaking town to sheep farms with no Internet, phone signal or mains power. Oh and a few Welsh-speaking settlements too. In between, there are sections where you’ll do 250 kilometres between fuel stations. Argentina is famed for its food and Patagonia is home to some of the best steaks and
Who is Motorrad Tours?
Motorrad Tours is an Official Travel Partner of BMW Motorrad. The firm operates a range of motorcycle tours throughout Europe as well as tours in Africa, the Americas and Asia. You are welcome to ride any type of bike on the tours, but you’ll always ride BMW. The touring style is about freedom – Motorrad Tours provides route guidance notes, maps and GPS routes so you can choose to ride independently, with the Tour Leader or swap and change; you have the freedom to choose. For more information about Motorrad Tours head to www. motorrad-tours.com, or give them a shout on 08000 131 282.
red wine in the world. In most places you can eat an incredible steak and drink fine wine and still come home with change from $60. Plus, the riding is simply incredible.
Getting to Patagonia is dead easy –you can get direct flights from Sydney or Melbourne to Santiago. You can then grab an internal flight to wherever you want to start riding from, or head straight out from Santiago. My favourite starting point is Puerto Varas; a stunning place on a lake, opposite a volcano – volcanoes and lakes are going to win the ‘epic views’ battle every time. If you’re hiring bikes on a trip through Patagonia starting in Chile, you will have to finish in Chile – you can’t enter Argentina with a bike and leave without it. However many pieces it’s in.
On the subject of paperwork and border rules, Australian nationals don’t need a visa, but you will need an IDP (international driving permit). As you travel through Patagonia, you’re likely to cross into and out of Argentina several times. The good news is the border crossings are safe, sensible and legitimate – they’re not bribe-fuelled hustler borders here. They are, however, sticklers for paperwork, so make sure you have all your bike and personal documents in order and ready with a few spare pages for all the stamps in your passport. Oh and don’t carry any fresh fruit with you, that’s a big no-no. Patagonia has several iconic roads, but the top two are definitely Carretera Austral and Ruta Cuarenta. Carretera Austral was built by the Chilean army under dictator Augusto Pinochet to connect Chile with its Patagonian region. It runs through thick forests, fjords, glaciers and steep mountains and is still largely a dirt road, although more tarmac crops up each year. Ruta Cuarenta (Route 40) rivals the famous Route 66 in the USA for length, at around 5000 kilometres running north to south across the Patagonian Steppe, alongside the Andes. Now it is mostly tarmac, but still with some great dirt sections for those who like a little gravel beneath their wheels if you know where to find them. Outside of these two there are endless dirt roads and dirt trails to explore. Great mountain riding balances super
twisty roads with very beautiful scenery. Almost too beautiful; I watched someone a couple of years ago ride clean off the road because they were staring at the scenery thinking “I can’t believe I’m riding a bike in a place like this”. Of course, shortly after thinking that he wasn’t; he was sitting beside his bike on the grass verge feeling a bit silly. Riding across the Patagonian Steppe can be very challenging thanks to the varying surface and powerful cross winds; be prepared to ride leaning over at 25 degrees in a straight line. On Ruta 40, if the wind hits on the gravel sections you have to pick a track where the trucks have worn the gravel down to a nice hard base. This works a treat right up to the point where wind lifts you into the soft gravel or you get to a corner. Everybody seems to take slightly different lines around the corners and that nice hard base track you’ve been enjoying fades away to a nice spread of soft gravel. And then the tracks all drift back together and the nice worn-in hard base reappears; it’s challenges like these that make the trip such an adventure, keeping you on your toes every step of the way.
There’s a section of the Carretera Austral out of the village of Puyuhuapi with a fantastic climb up some 15 hairpins on dirt road; a really tight, steep climb. That and the wind on the steppe are probably the most challenging sections of the trip. One common theme though is the sealing of these iconic roads – you really do need to get out and ride Patagonia now, before all the best bits are bitumen and full of bus tours.
We keep banging on about the views,
but each time we go, every single day consists of ‘wow’, then another ‘wow’ and then a bigger ‘wow’ and then you’ve run out of ‘wows’ and the word starts to sound silly. But it really is like that every day; blue lagoons, green lagoons, incredible lakes, incredible mountains, the national parks; it just goes on and on. As well as the views, (did we mention the views?) you have to visit Butch Cassidy’s hideout and the Porito Moreno Glacier.
If you keep going down you end up crossing the Strait of Magellan onto Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire. Riding through Argentinean Tierra del Fuego you suddenly find the road becomes ten lanes wide from two lanes and is dead straight for three kilometres. And then ten lanes becomes two and you realise you’ve been riding on an emergency runway; a fallout from the Falklands war. Criss-crossing the border with Chile, you continue down to Ushuaia – the southern-most city in the world.
Fifteen kilometres south of there is the Lapataia National Park where the road stops and you reach the revered sign saying Fin del Mundo – The End of the World. South from there it’s the Antarctic Ocean.
The riding season in Patagonia is short, essentially mid November to the end of March. Spring is the best time to go (December), as you’ll get lambs springing round fields, baby guanaco, wild flowers; it’s just a beautiful time to be there. As you’ll be riding in the Andes, and you are a long way south it can rain, it will be cold at altitude at times and it can even snow.
If you go in the summer, basically January, you’re more likely to get better
weather but it isn’t as pretty and there’s still no guarantee that it won’t rain or snow on you. Temperatures can be as high as late twenties, and we’ve seen as low as two degrees Celsius. Which leads us on to what riding kit to take. Simple answer, take it all. The warm stuff, the waterproof stuff and the layers. If you fancy some off-bike activity, you might want to pack for glacier walking, horse trekking and a spot of fishing. Accommodation will vary from lovely four-star hotels to lots of comfortable hosterias; the Patagonian take on a simple hotel offering comfortable, en suite accommodation. You’ll find lots of cabins, nice cabins, along the way too. Sleeping in a bunkroom on a working farm might sound like roughing it, but staying in the fourberth estancia bunkrooms is always a highlight for me. No wi-fi, no phone signal and power from a generator – it’s proper remote living and a great thing to experience. The back-to-basics setup and enforced room sharing breeds a great atmosphere, cooking on an open fire and enjoying conversation over a backdrop of unspoilt stargazing. Patagonia is a genuine wilderness; an incredible place to ride a motorcycle, with vast stretches across the plains, broken up by tight, technical mountain passes. The weather can vary hugely, but the hospitality is always the same – friendly, happy and there’s always a special welcome for those tackling the country by bike. Go there now, discover unspoiled settlements in the middle of nowhere and try not to ride off the road while admiring the scenery. Did I mention already how good the views are? D
KawasaKi Z900 a4
s omething missing? WORDS/PHOTOS stuart
HaViNG GOt thE Z900 back on its wheels I started building the engine. Everything was going along nicely until I spun the gearbox in the casing and it felt a little rough. Upon closer inspection, I found that third gear on the input shaft had a
tooth missing. Apparently third gear is an issue in the Z1/Z900s so the hunt was on to locate one. This turned out to be relatively easy from a friend in the Netherlands – a big relief! While I waited for the gear to turn up I fitted the crank, pistons and
barrel as well as the front discs. This is basically where I’ve got up to this month. I do plan to fit third gear a few days after I’m writing this, so hopefully by next issue I’ll have the bottom end in the frame and looking smick! D
LET’S GO EVERYWHERE, MAN
VISIT ICELAND WHILE IT’S HOT
Like a lot of people who have been there, I’ve become a great booster for Iceland. The place is hard to fault; it has even
TOUR
topped The World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap Index for 10 years in a row now! Ah, you can probably tell that I’m reading the latest ‘What’s New in Iceland’ post… What’s more important to Australian motorcyclists is that new air
Yes, of course you can read Icelandic fluently; just sound the words out.
connections have been added - during summer a total of 26 airlines will be flying to Iceland, offering overall 71 destinations. The one that I like is
NEW ZEAL AND
the direct Finnair connection from Helsinki to Keflavik, adding another two-stop flight possibility from Australia.
A recent post I saw on a travel website called Iceland “overphotographed”, which I think is just plain silly – there are so many photographic opportunities that you
could spend your life there and not visit them all. But it does indicate that Iceland is becoming more and more popular. Get there before it has ice cream stands on the glaciers! Well, maybe hot dog stands. By the way, Icelandic hot dogs are universally available and excellent.
ECUADOR’S PORT CAYO NAILS IT
“There is a place we stay in Ecuador”, says MotoQuest’s Phil Freeman, “that is not the best and not the worst in terms of accommodations, but any time our group arrives there, it can
No, it’s not Ecuador, it’s Peru. But you wouldn’t have known if I hadn’t told you, would you?
only be described as magic.
“Ecuador throws every ecosystem, every imaginable climate, culture, plant and animal at you. The roads that criss-cross this peaceful country are European-grade pavement. After several days of riding abundant diversity, you pull into Puerto Cayo after a rather short day. In this moment, one can choose to ride more or just enjoy an inviting uninhabited beach that stretches into the far distance on both sides. Once checked in, decisions become abruptly difficult: Do I swing in the hammock? Do I leisurely order a beer and float around the pool with the unobstructed view of the beach? Do I walk along the ocean? Do I go for a swim in the crashing waves? All of the above?
“Tough decisions abound, but the tangible feeling of relaxation and peace overwhelm you and you contemplate riding the next day to one
of the furthest points from the center of the earth. Yes, tonight the sunset over the Pacific - tomorrow glaciers at 15,000 feet. Awe... Ecuador. And Puerto Cayo nails all of that.”
That’s just one of the many tours MotoQuest runs, including Alaska women-only tours. Check them out at www.motoquest.com, info@ motoquest.com. MotoQuest, 2780 Dawson Street Signal Hill, CA 90755 USA . They also rent bikes out. I’m just about to set off on a ride through south-western Canada on one of MotoQuest’s Suzuki DL650s; more about their rentals at the end of this article.
SPAIN’S WHITE CITIES WITH IMTBIKE
Spanish operator IMTBIKE has added Córdoba to its amazing tour through Andalusia.
Cordoba is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. Declared a
World Heritage Site, Cordoba is a living legacy of history that portrays the different cultures (Christian, Muslim, Jewish) that influenced this city through time. Its famous patios, spectacular mosque, its culture and friendly people have made it one of Southern Spain´s gems that shouldn’t be missed.
This 9 day tour begins in Malaga, a city known as the “city of light” for the number of sunny days it has year round. The trip highlights other gems like Granada, Seville and Ronda as well as many more “pueblos blancos” or “white cities” that you’ll encounter throughout this mountainous region of Spain.
The new overnight stay in Cordoba is in a high quality hotel right on the banks of the Guadalquivir River.
You’ve missed the guided tours for this year, but you can do this as a selfguided tour at any time of the year, or plan now for 2020..
For more information on this Andalucía Tour and other motorcycle tours and rentals, visit them at www.
Cordoba, a new addition to the IMTBIKE Andalusia tour. (Photo: IMTBIKE)
imtbike.com, call them on (412) 4682453 or via email at: tours@imtbike. com . I’ve done a tour of northern Spain with them and can heartily recommend them.
LOOK OUT MONGOLIA –COMPASS IS COMING WITH BEEMERS
Compass Expeditions is renowned for operating tours in remote locations around the world and makes sure that the bikes are as good as they can possibly be. let’s be honest, on occasions the locally available bikes are not the greatest! Mongolia is certainly one of those locations. What they’ve done, therefore, is spent the last few months scouring Australia for good
quality BMW F800 GS motorcycles.
“We delivered the bikes to our Melton depot,” writes Craig Jackson, “where our BMW trained mechanic went through each bike with a fine tooth comb. Last week we loaded eight BMW F800 GS motorcycles into a container and sent them to Mongolia where our bike partner has purchased these bikes to replace its existing fleet.
“To further our commitment to providing BMW motorcycles to the far-flung corners of the earth, we are flying our BMW trained mechanic to Mongolia to train their mechanics and introduce bike service scheduling, diagnostic tools and a preventative maintenance program.
“This fleet of excellent motorcycles will be used for our upcoming 2019 and 2020 Mongolian Magic tours and will also be the bikes available for our new, soon to be released, TransSiberian Explorer tour.
“Compass Expeditions is very proud to be involved in the very first fleet of BMW motorbikes to ever reach
Provence Bonjour
There the BMW R 800 GSs are, ready to go to Mongolia. Can you say the same thing for yourself?
Mongolia. Anyone can offer rides and rent local heaps of %&# but few, if any, companies would show such a commitment to providing decent BMW motorcycles, no matter where in the world.
“Want to be part of Mongolian biking history? Then join up on one of our Mongolian rides!”
See more about the Compass Mongolian Magic Tours at www.compassexpeditions.com/ and check out their other Central Asian tours, as well as the offerings world-wide.
WANT IT? RENT IT!
Many if not most motorcycle tour operators also offer rental bikes. This
Motorcycle shipping
FELIXSTOWE
Shipments to Felixstowe twice every year.
A THENS
Shipments to Athens every year.
BARCELONA
Shipments to Barcelona every year.
My Suzuki DL650 MotoQuest rental bike on the road in Baja, Mexico.
JOURNEYS
can be a cost-effective way of organizing your own ride, and they will have plenty of ideas to help you along with your planning. I have used MotoQuest’s Rental Program in North America a couple of times, so I’ll let Phil Freeman tell you about the way their system works.
“Our rental fleet gives you the freedom to build your own adventure, where you don’t have to be limited to the dates and locations of our scheduled domestic tours. Specific times of the year can be difficult to plan a vacation for some people, and that’s when our rentals serve as an invaluable alternative to those who are simply unable to commit to one of our publicly offered guided and supported adventures.
“Our West Coast outposts serve as ideal starting points for round-trip and one-way rentals, providing strategically located gateways to your own personal adventure from Alaska, the Los Angeles area, or the Portland area. If you are traveling for a week or longer as a group, there’s strength in numbers as we offer discount options for groups of five riders or more.
“Our staff of riders has a wealth of knowledge for you to tap into, and our complementary route consultation for selfguided rentals is a resource aimed to assist in developing the perfect customized journey. This starts with determining the best motorcycle for both your ability and destination, and can include suggested sites to visit and lodging accommodations. More often than not, you’ll find that the suggestions we offer in route consultation are elements of our many tours…
“We begin every rental with an orientation session for your motorcycle of choice upon your arrival for pick up. Every motorcycle is different, and we’ll share detailed information about your motorcycle and the equipment you’ll have with you during the rental. This will allow you to make any adjustments on the road, but more importantly, focus on the adventure that awaits, taking in the incredible surroundings along your journey. For added peace of mind, we also provide roadside assistance that works in Alaska, Canada, the contiguous U.S., and Mexico. MotoQuest’s one-way rentals can be an ideal option to consider as well, and of the most popular versions of the MotoQuest Rental Program are our Transporter Specials. Take advantage of the most affordable rates on one-way rentals, where you can ride soughtafter motorcycles at a fraction of the cost.”
Contact www.motoquest.com , info@motoquest.com . D
Available through:
www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au
TOUR OPERATOR DIRECTORY
The guide to the stars - The who’s who in the zoo of motorcycle travel worldwide is what you’ll fi nd here. These companies want to make your motorcycle travel the best it can be. We’ve travelled with many of them and know them all, so they come highly recommended. In alphabetical order, they are:
- Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Europe and Thailand www.imtbike.com tours@imtbike.com
MAVERIK
MOTORCYCLE TOURS
Italy & Austria www.maverik.com.au 1300 661 772 sandro@maverik.com.au
PARADISE MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand & European Alps www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz
RIDE THE WORLD - Australia, India, South Africa, Vietnam, USA Adventure rides out of Las Vegas www.ridetheworld.com.au david@ridetheworld.com.au
SERENDIB MOTORCYCLING ADVENTURES – Sri Lanka www.SerendibMotorcycling Adventures.com info@SerendibMotorcycling Adventures.com
SOUTH PACIFIC MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand www.motorbiketours.co.nz offi ce@motorbiketours.co.nz
WORLD ON WHEELS - Europe, Iceland, South America, India, Asia, Mexico, Africa & Himalaya www.worldonwheels.tours Adventure@WorldOnWheels.Tours
Be quick on the B500! words/photos Andrew Percy
SiNCe tHe GReat Alpine Road (GAR) was opened in 1998 countless motorcyclists have traversed it. For many the road itself is the purpose of the ride, while for others it’s part of a bigger plan and time limitations prevent further consideration of what it may have to offer – “Gotta to
get to Phillip Island for official practice!” There are many ways to access this road, all offering a good ride, some history and in the case of the King Valley, delicious food, wine and craft beer. I hope this article will encourage motorcyclists to take the time to explore all that a journey along and around this road has to offer.
“ To T ravel hopefully is a be TT er T hing T han T o arrive. ”
r oberT l ouis sT evenson
ApproAching from the south
Who in their right mind would use the Hume [M31]? Approaching North East Victoria from the south really comes down to two choices; via Mansfield, or via East Gippsland.
Via ManSFiEld
From Melbourne there are three very enjoyable routes north to Mansfield: via Whittlesea and Yea [C725]; via the Melba Highway [B300] and Yea, or via the Maroondah Highway [B360] (aka ‘Black Spur’) and Alexandra. The delightful Alexandra Hotel & Cafe is a good place for a break. There is also accommodation. www.alexandrahotel.net.au
From Mansfield take the MansfieldWhitfield Road [C521] north over Mount Tolmie (max. road alt. 943m) and down into Whitfield at the upper end of the King Valley. This demanding and scenic road is one of the best motorcycle rides in Victoria. Along its length are some of the highest vineyards in Australia growing uncommon grapes such as Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Barbera and Tempranillo which thrive in the cooler summers. Otto dal Zotto grew up in the Prosecco growing region of Valdobbiadene in northern Italy and came here during the post-war tobacco boom. In 2004 he was the first to produce Prosecco in Australia at what was then his tobacco farm. Since then his success has been copied by half a dozen King Valley wine makers who now produce this sparkling Italian aperitivo. This isn’t called the ‘Road to Prosecco’ for nothing. Thursday to Sunday Dal Zotto Wines serves lunch and on Friday dinner is also available. www.dalzotto.com.au www.winesofthekingvalley.com.au/ home/road-to-prosecco
For those whose interests do not include viticulture there is the Mountain View Hotel which serves good local craft beers and food. The hotel also has accommodation. www.mvhotel.com.au/ mountain-view www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au
As the valley descends into the Ovens Valley it contains within it a series of micro-climates which encourage not only vines but also chestnuts, berries, olives and honey. Incidentally, Edi on the King River has for decades been the home of the Moto Guzzi Club of Victoria ‘Spaghetti Rally’. Held each October, whatever you’re riding you are welcome.
The C521 terminates at Oxley on the ‘Snow Road’ [C522], where you will find Sam Miranda Winery. Here my wife always calls for a meal and a refreshing flute of Prosecco. www.sammiranda.com.au
Head east through the Ovens Valley on the low trafficked ‘Snow Road’ [C522] for 34 kilometres until it intersects with the GAR near Gapsted Wines. www.milawagourmet.com.au www.gapstedwines.com.au
Tobacco, once the major crop in the King and Ovens Valleys, has been replaced by wine, fruit and hops. Hence the hops drying kilns dotting the landscape. To the south, Mount Buffalo (alt. 1,723m) looms over it all. From Gapsted it’s 36 kilometres to Bright.
Via East Gippsland an Bairnsdal E
Bairnsdale, at the southern end of the GAR, is a mind numbing 280 kilometres east of Melbourne via the Princes Freeway and Highway [M1/ A1]. Much of this heavily trafficked and policed highway can be avoided by exiting Melbourne via the eastern suburbs, Yarra Junction, Noojee [C425/C426] and Moe [C465/C466]. This route is continuously hilly and although it adds as much as an hour it’s worth every minute. Approaching Moe turn to Newborough [C467] and follow the C103 and C105 through Yallourn North to Glengarry, Toongabbie, Cowwarr, Heyfield, Tinamba, Maffra and finally the Princes Highway [A1].
If exiting Melbourne via the Monash [M1], after the Moe and Newborough exits take the Haunted Hills exit [C471] and follow the C471 until it
joins the C103 at the Yallourn ‘W’ Power Station. Turn toward Yallourn North and then continue on as above. If breaking your journey in Bairnsdale the Grand Terminus Hotel offers accommodation and good dining. www.grandterminus.com.au
For those with deeper pockets I can recommend the Riversleigh boutique hotel. www.riversleigh.com.au
The GAR between Bairnsdale and Omeo is an excellent 120 kilometre ride, however for those always seeking the road less travelled, at Swifts Creek divert to Cassilis. For 29 kilometres this road wends its way through the Cassilis Valley shadowing the Swifts and Livingston Creeks until it joins the GAR at the western edge of Omeo. The road is low trafficked, has some tight sections and offers an excellent ride. Midway is the historic gold mining ghost town of Cassilis and the Mount Markey Winery & Lone Hand Brew House. www.omeo.org.au/mtmarkey/ markey.htm
Omeo (alt. 685m) was settled during the 1850s Gold Rush and at the time was reputed to be the most lawless goldfield in the colony. Although the 1939 bushfires devastated the area many of Omeo’s 19th century buildings were saved and I find present day sleepy Omeo difficult to reconcile with the town’s ‘Dodge City’ past. The Art Deco Golden Age Hotel offers meals and accommodation ranging from budget rooms to balcony rooms with ensuite. Car clubs and motorcyclists love this place, so confirm a booking ahead of travel. www.goldenageomeo.com.au
darGo for thE ‘Gs typEs’ Dargo (pop. 150) is nestled in a valley known for its groves of century-old walnut trees. The Bairnsdale-Dargo Road [C601] is 80 kilometres of winding, hilly, sealed road, climbing from Bairnsdale north to Dargo. It is an excellent ride which will take about an hour. Coming from Stratford there
are several roads which connect with the Bairnsdale-Dargo Road [601]. The Dargo Hotel is very popular with motorcyclists and offers log cabin accommodation including a dinner, bed and breakfast package. The Dargo Store has 91 & 95 RON petrol. http://thedargohotel.com.au/ www.dargostore.com.au/ www/home/
At Dargo the road undergoes a name change to ‘Dargo High Plains Road’, is unsealed, can be rough and climbs for 70 kilometres until intersecting with the GAR ten kilometres west of Hotham Heights (alt. 1,840m). Please note; this road is gated during the winter months. www.nevictoria.com/dargo_hp.htm
From here it’s a tight 32 kilometre descent down to Harrietville (alt. 510m) at the top of the Ovens Valley, and the source of the Ovens River. The Snowline Hotel is a good place for lunch and a cleansing ale, or to spend the night should Bright be too busy. Accommodation and meal packages are available, and motorcyclists are very welcome. www.snowlinehotel.com.au
ApproAching from the north
Via thE snowy Mountains and Murray VallEy hiGhway [B400]
Shortly after Tallangatta, turn off to Tangambalanga [C533], which is effectively merged with Kiewa. At the T-junction with the Kiewa Valley Highway [C531] turn left to Mount Beauty. The Kiewa Valley is a pleasant ride through open, undulating farmland used for grazing and dairying. Even into late spring the snow-capped peak of Mount Bogong (alt. 1,986m) can be seen ahead in the distance. From the T-junction follow the highway for 38 kilometres to the locality of Running Creek and turn right into Running Creek Road
[C534]. For the next seven kilometres this road passes through farmland until it meets a spur over which the road climbs (max. road alt. 590m) for eight tight, winding kilometres. The road then descends into Happy Valley which opens into the Ovens Valley, where the C534, now Happy Valley Road, terminates at Ovens on the GAR. Although identified as a tourist drive, I usually find Happy Valley to be lightly trafficked offering a pleasing ride. Though I must add, the police appreciate motorcyclists’ enthusiasm for this road. From Ovens it’s 26 kilometres to Bright.
Via albury-Wodonga
Exit Wodonga via the Murray Valley Highway [B400] and proceed to the Kiewa Valley Highway [C531] junction at Bandiana. From here Running Creek is 53 kilometres distant, and once there continue on as above.
Via KieWa Valley HigHWay and TaWonga gap
Another way to cross over from the Kiewa Valley to the Ovens Valley is
to continue along the Kiewa Valley Highway toward Mount Beauty, and at Tawonga South turn onto the Tawonga Gap Road [C536]. The road makes a rapid ascent to Sullivan’s Lookout (alt. 788m) – which is worth the stop – before descending into the Ovens Valley. The road ends at the GAR. Turn right and continue for six kilometres to Bright.
Via beecHWorTH and THe bucKland gap
Exit Wodonga southwards via the C315 to Beechworth. This is 39 kilometres of easy winding road climbing all the way to Beechworth (alt. 580m). Once the capital of North East Victoria during the 1850s Gold Rush this historic town contains within it over 30 National Trust buildings and is well worth a visit. Tanswell’s Commercial Hotel offers local craft beer in the front bar where Ned Kelly enjoyed his beer. There is also a good wine list and food. www.tanswellshotelbeechworth. com.au/index.html
In August Beechworth hosts the
‘Annual Beechworth Ned Kelly Weekend’. www.facebook.com/ NedKellyBushranger
Exit Beechworth via the Buckland Gap Road [C524] which makes a gentle 16 kilometre descent through the Buckland Gap down to the Ovens Valley where it intersects with the GAR. Beechworth to Bright is 60 kilometres.
WHy brigHT?
All my directions have led to Bright (pop. 2,165) because this beautiful town is a good base for further exploration. Already blessed with a pleasant natural setting on the Ovens River, successive generations of townsfolk have improved on this by planting lots of deciduous trees which are the focus of the ‘Bright Autumn Festival’ held each April. Bright’s position on the floor of the Ovens Valley is at a relatively low elevation (alt. 320m), which can make for hot summer days, however at Centenary Park the Ovens River is dammed and relief can be found in the river swimming pool. For those who would
rather get wet on the inside there is the nearby Bright Brewery – which brings me to the subject of food. Food choices in Bright are plentiful. For dinner I favour the Bright Brewery, nearby Ginger Baker overlooking Centenary Park, and Walker Bros Bistro Wine Bar which occupies a basement at the corner of Gavan & Barnard Streets. https://brightbrewery.com.au/ http://walkerbroswinebar.com.au/ http://gingerbaker.com.au/
Ginger Baker is situated under a canopy of deciduous trees and is a beaut spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is a particularly pleasant experience on a warm summer’s evening. Accommodation is varied and plentiful, however it fills quickly during Easter, summer, school holidays and the many events held here, so keep an eye on Bright’s events calendar. www.visitbright.com.au www.brightvictoria.com.au/ events.aspx
WANDILIGONG VALLEY
Wandiligong is just six kilometres south of Bright. 400 metres from the bridge over Morse’s Creek is Churchill Avenue and signage to Wandiligong. This delightful village and its surrounds are classified by the National Trust, so park the motorcycle and take some time to explore. Afterwards reward yourself at the Wandi Pub. www.thewandipub.com
During the Gold Rush the valley had a population of 2,000 and
many of the buildings from that era remain – schools, churches, a public library, shops and a hotel. Today the population is 250 and consists for the most part of agricultural workers and art and crafts people. From Wandiligong, Morse’s Creek Road continues south through a landscape filled with apple orchards, nut groves and horticultural businesses until the sealed section ends about nine kilometres from Bright. Local traffic tends to be slow moving which dictates this is not the road for a burnup. The unsealed Morse’s Creek Road eventually merges with the improbably named ‘Mongrel Creek Track’. You would have to be game.
BUCKLAND VALLEY
Buckland Valley Road branches off the GAR at the large roundabout in Porepunkah, six kilometres west of Bright. The beautiful Buckland Valley is nestled against the eastern side of Mount Buffalo and is filled with farms, orchards, nut groves, vineyards, camping sites and swimming holes along the river. During the summer and Easter this road carries a fair amount of traffic, including cyclists, so exercise extra care during these periods. The sealed road ends at Buckland Valley Bridge 12.5 kilometres from the roundabout.
The unsealed road follows the river south, undergoes a name change to Mount Selwyn Road and continues to follow the river to its source near Mount Selwyn. Just four kilometres along the unsealed road is an impressive memorial commemorating the anti-Chinese riot of 4 July 1857.
At the time 2,000 ‘Asiatics’, as they were called, and 700 Europeans were crowded into the valley. The Chinese were very resourceful at picking over the claims impatiently abandoned by the Europeans in their rush to get rich quick. Resentment boiled over following the construction of a Joss-House and the European miners destroyed it, ransacked the Chinese camps and then some set about murdering those Chinese who would not reveal the hiding place of their gold. The memorial was erected in July 2007 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the riot.
BUFFALO RIVER AND LAKE BUFFALO
Thirty kilometres west of Porepunkah is Myrtleford and the well signposted Buffalo River Road [C526]. This lightly trafficked and policed road rolls south for 32 kilometres following the Buffalo River, the Lake Buffalo shoreline and continues until it crosses the Rose River via a narrow bridge. 500 metres after the bridge the sealed road terminates at a junction with the Rose River Road. From here, for those appropriately mounted, there is more riding – not so much for others. For them it’s best to return to Myrtleford.
Straight ahead (left fork) the road changes its name to Abbeyards Road and continues to follow the river south, or upstream, on and on into the wilderness. To the right the Rose River Road follows the Rose River south-west for about 17 kilometres, before turning north-west for a further 15 kilometres until it reaches Cheshunt on the King River. That’s right; we’re back in the King Valley where this article began. D
LONGTERMERS
KAWASAKI Z900RS CARBON BREATHING
OUR KAWASAKI Z900RS has been the one getting the most love lately. This last month we’ve fitted up an awesome DNA air
filter ($166) and a set of Barkbuster single point carbon handguards.
Ever since we first got the Z900RS I’ve wanted to fit a DNA air filter to it. The benefit of fitting a DNA will always bring a big smile to your face. Ease of maintenance and performance are the two obvious advantages. After fitting the DNA to the RS (about 30mins) and combined with the already fitted Booster Plug and Akrapovic slip-on the result is a rather swift and very smoothly performing Z900RS. DNA makes air filters for a wide variety of models so you really do need to check them out and fit one to your ride. Visit your local bike shop or www.kenma.com.au Barkbuster products are the finest handguards in the world and to confirm this, many manufacturers use Barkbuster products as OEM fitment. My father had wanted a set of handguards as he likes that little bit of wind deflection, especially in the cooler months, but didn’t want a full on huge handguard. When I mentioned the single point frame with a carbon fibre guard, he was straight onto Motorrad Garage (again) and bought a set. Fitment is easy and very simple with instructions supplied if you’re not sure. The result is outstanding. Next month we’ve got a Corbin Gunfighter seat fitted up and we’ll report how it’s going versus the standard seat. SW
PEUGEOT DJANGO CITY BLASTING
The little Peugeot scoot has been very handy to have in the stable. We’ve been blasting around all over the city and outer suburbs doing all manner of running around. Being easy to ride, easy to manoeuvrer and small enough to get through
tight traffic you couldn’t ask for a better machine to be zipping around on. Now it’s time to head further afield and see what it’s like heading up the mountains for coffee and cake! SW
ROYAL ENFIELD INTERCEPTOR 650 THE ALL-ROUNDER
The more and more I ride the Interceptor, the more I love it. The 650 punches out a good spread of torque in the rev range you mainly use on the road, 3-5000rpm, and is a bike that just does everything you could ask of it. It does everything so well that it’s hard to point out any one particular feature that’s a standout, but I guess the one feature that has stood out for me is the attention it gets whenever you pull up at the traffic lights, for fuel or at a café. You wouldn’t expect it but when bystanders see the ‘Royal Enfield’ badge on the tank they’re instantly drawn to it. Why that is I have no idea, but be prepared for conversation and people complimenting your bike if you own one. SW
DUCATI SUPERSPORT SHORT TIME, BUT A GOOD TIME
Despite us only having the Supersport for a very short few weeks I am mightily impressed with how good it is as a road bike. The launch we did a couple of years ago saw us mainly ride on a closed circuit, and this really isn’t that kind of bike. Also, the changes to the fuelling that I suspect have been done since that first model see the Supersport being a bike that commands attention. If you haven’t yet ridden one or ever had the thought of checking one out I cannot recommend this model enough. Do you need the Ohlins ‘S’ model? Not really, the standard model for me is everything most riders will ever need. Remember the VFR800? I hate to compare it to the Honda but the Supersport is a sharper version of it. I just wish we’d been able to keep the Supersport longer cause it’s a fun bike to ride. SW D
FREECOM 1+ is the world’s most advanced Bluetooth communication system whether you are riding alone or with a passenger.
WHATSAYYOU
WE
LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity.
LETTER OF THE MONTH
Paul has carefully thought out his top ten bikes and for this gets the prize. Send me your postal address and T-shirt size, mate. SW
TOP TEN
Stuart, you are generous giving us ten choices. Here are mine…
DUCATI 1992 888 SP4 (White frame)
One of the most beautiful motorcycles ever built. One roared past me on a quiet Rome Italian back road when I was a young bloke. It changed me forever.
TRIUMPH 2018 Thruxton R. In its exquisite engineering and simple harmonized elements I think it’s a future classic. Look at those mufflers.
HARLEY DAVIDSON 2019 114 Fatboy
The new model has clean lines and
retains the signature Fatboy cool look. Ultimate street cruiser. Well balanced for a big bike.
DUCATI Monster 800.
(Pearl white with red wheels). A beautiful looking bike. An ideal package for a weekend blast. Only Ducati could make red wheels look so good.
HARLEY DAVIDSON 2017 Low Rider.
Retro chopper style captures the essence of Harley’s heritage. Last of the aircooled engines. My current bike. Love it.
ANY current Moto GP bike. Pure sex on wheels. Even before the engine starts. No need to ride it and scare myself to hell. Just look.
YAMAHA R1 (Crossplane crankshaft model).
Just for the shrieking lumpy exhaust sound.
HONDA VFR 1200 2018 Fantastic sculptured
bodywork. Ultimate long range tourer. Love V-four engines. Go to Bourke and back before breakfast.
HONDA CB1100R. 1983 Bol D’or. A mighty machine with so much presence. Loved the red, white and blue colours.
Cheers, Paul
TOO HORNY?
Dear Ed,
Great pics Ducati Stealth AM #79. Are my eyes playing tricks or photographic illusion? Have Ducati located the horn at the bottom left hand side near the bottom cylinder exhaust pipe? To my way of thinking this compulsory item for rego is going to cop a lot of crap thrown up by the front wheel, even allowing for guard. Also given the state of roads in Oz & wet conditions (yes it will eventually rain) this does not appear to be ideal placement. Having a trellis frame maybe using a hose clip to attach the horn behind the radiator could be more suitable. Just a thought. Worth a mention to Ducati? Or maybe I am right out of it, age showing. Your thoughts invaluable. Cheers, Grahame. Bexley
Hi Grahame, Your eyes have 20/20 vision, mate! LOL! There’s probably no room anywhere else to get horny. Cheers, Stuart.
OILS AIN’T OILS
Hi there, I have recently been told my full synthetic car engine oil should not be used in my ride.
It’s a CanAm Spyder 6 speed semi auto. Yeah I know it’s not two wheels. Cos it will damage the clutch packs due to high zinc and anti-friction additives. So, how about a tech article on the good oils and why use them and not car oils.
Cheers Stu
Hi Stuart,
This has always been an interesting subject that I’ve wanted to write about but getting the oil companies to help me with tech info, which I think should be included, is quite difficult. Using car engine oil has long been discussed for many bikes, it all depends on the motorcycle and how old the clutch is and so on. For instance… I run car engine oil in my FZR1000 race bike you might have seen in the mag. The clutch has held out perfectly and gets abused more than a normal road bike as you can imagine. As for your CanAm I don’t see any issue using a top quality car engine oil, but (as I have to put in here) you should be guided by the manufacturer. As for high zinc, many of the top motorcycle oils are full of zinc as this is what gives you performance and longevity and many other properties that protect the engine under high loads. Hope this gives you a little insight into oils ain’t oils. LOL!
Cheers, Stuart.
SWANNING AROUND
In Issue #79 Tim Storck asked Bear for a list of motorcycling stories. While we are waiting for Bear to stop swanning around overseas and compile his list here are a few books you might be going on with:
Motorcycle Adventurer, Dr Gregory W. Frazier
Around the World on a Motorcycle 1928 to 1936 , Zoltan Sulkowski
The Rugged Road, Theresa Wallach Jupiter’s Travels and Dreaming of Jupiter, Ted Simon.
India the Shimmering Dream, Max Reisch
Then there are more contemporary stories by various authors, a small sample being:
Adrian Scott (The Road Gets Better From Here)
Lois Pryce
Mike Carter
Linda Bootherstone
Sam Manicom
Shirley & Brian Rix
Nathan Millward
Sam Martin
Get onto Amazon and search for motorcycle stories; there are hundreds.
Jeff Cole
Alice Springs
Well Jeff, you’ve done my work for me! Seriously, it’s not just that I’ve been overseas; I’m also getting the NBN installed (third try coming up) and my office at home looks like
the aftermath of an oil spill on the freeway. Story coming up! – The Bear
THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO
Stuart, Bear and crew.
As always I enjoy reading AMM. I have just started reading issue 79 and was very interested in what Boris had to say about the decline in the sales of Harley Davidson. Sadly South West Harley Davidson in Bunbury recently closed down after many years of trading. Amazingly enough I was discussing the decline in Harley sales hours prior to reading the wise words of
Boris and had come to the same conclusions as Boris.
When I started riding over 40 years ago my choice of ride were always trail bikes, I was never really into road bikes until I got older. When I eventually started riding road bikes I never really wanted a Harley, I probably couldn’t have afforded one even if I did desire one, I always went for Japanese bikes.
As I got older I observed a number of Harley Riders who looked down their noses at any other bike, what I also observed that these Harley Riders were middle to late age, pretty new to riding, looked like they had stepped out of a Harley catalogue and were using their machines to ride to the nearest coffee shop. I also find that the blokes/women who have been riding bikes including Harley’s most of their lives are more down to earth, accepting and are in it for the ride.
I recently purchased a Thunder Bird, on seeing me with the new Trumpy one of the Harley catalogue junkies
D Moto Motorcycle Engineering
Technical Skill - Personal Service
that I know told me that he would make an Outlaw out of me yet, seriously, an Outlaw! I am at the stage in my life now where I could afford to buy almost any bike I like (within reason), I probably would never have chosen a Harley anyway but because of this image thing that seems to be so important to the Johnny Come Lately’s I wouldn’t consider it. I hope Harley does come up with a way of getting new younger customers to buy the brand, to achieve this I think that they may need to go the same way that Triumph is going and build bikes that appeal to a younger crew. On the bright side me and the pillion in a million are riding from Margaret River to Tasmania at the end of September, should be a good ride. Stay safe and thanks for a great Magazine.
Regards, Peter Simmonds
Good ride indeed, Peter – The Bear D
K 1600 B
F 750 GS
F 750 GS Tour
F 750 GS Low Susp
F 750 GS Tour LS
F
F 850 GS Tour Low Susp
F 850 GSA
R 1250 GS
R 1250 GS Rallye
R 1250 GS Rallye X
R 1250 GS Exclusive
R 1250 GS Spezial
R 1250 GSA
R 1250 GSA Rallye
R 1250 GSA Rallye X
R 1250 GSA Exclusive
R 1250 GSA Spezial
ScooteR
C 650 Sport
C 650 GT
CAN-AM (BRP) www.brp.com
$13,590
$17,305
$13,840
$17,005
$21,805
$18,240
$18,640
$21,505
$TBA
$23,490
$24,940
$29,890
$28,140
$31,390
$25,490
$26,390
$31,590
$30,790
$30,540
$14,150
$14,990
Spyder F3 $TBA
Spyder F3-S
Spyder F3-T
Spyder F3 Limited
Spyder RT $TBA
Spyder RT Limited $TBA
CF MOTO
www.cf-moto.com.au
DUCATI
www.ducati.com.au
*All Ducati prices are ride away
Road
Scrambler Sixty2
Scrambler Icon
Scrambler Full Throttle
HONDA
650
650
650
V-Strom 650 XT
V-Strom 1000 XT
$11,990
sCooTeR Address $2490
Burgman
SWM
www.swmmotorcycles.com.au
Road
Gran Turismo
$7490
Silver Vase 440 $7490
Gran Milano 440 $7990
SM 500 R $8990
$9990
SM 650 R $9490 adv TouRing Superdual
TRIUMPH
www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au
*Some Triumph prices are ride away
Road
Street Triple S 660 $12,800
Street Triple S
Street Triple R $15,850
Street Triple RS $17,550
Bonneville Street Twin $13,700
Bonne Street Cup $15,600
Street Scrambler $15,900
Bonne T100 $15,300
Bonne T100 Black
Bobber $18,000
Bonne Bobber Black $19,500
Bonneville T120 $17,200
Bonneville T120 Black
Thruxton R
Speed Twin
Speed Triple RS
CRuiseR
Thunderbird Storm $22,800
Thunderbird Commander
Rocket Touring
adv TouRing
Scrambler 1200 XE
Scrambler 1200 XC
Tiger 800 XRx/L
Tiger 800 XRt
BEARFACED
MTHE OLD MATES ACT OF 2019
OST OF THE important things
I know about publishing, I learned from ex-Kiwi and bon vivant Mac Douglas. That includes four-hour lunches being a good idea, and letting nothing get in the way of having a hilariously good time. Mac once tore a motorcycle helmet in half at a press conference to demonstrate the poor quality of some of the product coming into Australia. He was also a ferocious sub, working with a broad texta. No, there’s no underwater work associated with this; ‘sub’ is short for subeditor, the person who takes the often incoherent ravings of journalists and other contributors and turns them into the smooth, cultured and above all accurate text that you read in magazines like this. Some readers out there still think that a bloke called Kel Wearne was a brilliant writer. I saw a page of his copy once after Mac had finished subbing it. It was almost completely black; Mac had deleted everything except for one word. He was the one who supplied the brilliance. So I learned a lot from him (although I’ve never achieved the same decisive disdain that he showed manuscripts) but what I remember most clearly are two of his sayings: “You wouldn’t have a fag for an old digger?” – despite the fact that he wasn’t old, and had never been in the army as far as I know; and reference to the “Old Mates Act” of some random year when he wanted to justify doing something or getting something done and couldn’t be bothered going into detail or arguing.
The Old Mates Act applied in both directions – it could mean that he wanted you to do something, or that he wanted to do something for a friend. I’m going to copy that, and apply the Old Mates Act to Michael Rohan Sourjah’s new book ‘Motorcycling Adventures in Sri Lanka’. It’s easy doing this; for one thing, I’m in the book.
When he was researching the book and setting up his motorcycle tour business Serendib Motorcycling Adventures, he decided that he needed an outside opinion of some of the roads and attractions of his home island. Not knowing any better, he invited me to accompany him on a ride around the southern part of Sri Lanka, which now forms part of the book.
I loved the place.
Sri Lanka manages to achieve that happy balance of an exotic culture (with an exotic cuisine) on the one hand, and western-style standards of policing and health on the other. Roads are not universally good but they’re better than a lot of Eastern European ones, and scenery is outstanding.
The Royal Enfield 350 Singles that Rohan and I used on our ride are the type of bike that’s available from him for rental or his tours. Given their weight and modest power they might seem a bit sluggish, but with Sri Lanka’s busy roads and the constant distractions of on-road and roadside activity and scenery, they seem like the perfect choice for me. As we discovered, they can also be fixed at the roadside by one of the innumerable motorcycle mechanics. Sri Lanka has recently had poor publicity after some bombings. Personally, I would not be terribly worried by that at this stage. If you’re concerned, talk to Rohan on 0438 264 632. “Buy the ticket and take the ride,” wrote Hunter Thompson; if he’d ever ridden Sri Lanka he’d have written “Buy the book and take the ride”.
Motorcycling Adventures in Sri Lanka
Michael Rohan Sourjah Paperback, 328 pages, colour and b&w illustrations
ISBN 978-955-1723-45-3
www.SerendibMotorcycling Adventures. com; info@Serendib MotorcyclingAdventures.com D
I won’t go into more detail here because I wrote up the original trip for this magazine at the time, but I’m happy to say that Sri Lanka is pretty close to motorcycling paradise. On top of that it’s on Australia’s doorstep. Rohan’s book does an excellent job of describing the place from a motorcyclist’s point of view, although to fellow Sri Lankans he is more likely to be recognised as a highlyregarded rugby player. He also seems to know or be known by everyone, which can be handy.
say that Sri Lanka is pretty that of he player. He
BORIS
TOGETHER IN ELECTRIC DREAMS?
LET ME MAKE my understanding plain.
I understand electric motorcycles are coming. Some are already here. Some are even being raced.
I understand that as far as the environment is concerned, electric motorcycles, and indeed electric vehicles, are the bright and shining future that will stave off the melting ice-shelves, pump water back into our dead rivers, succour the honey bees, and allow Hollywood starlets to feel #empowered – more empowered even than when Harvey Weinstein could no longer ask them for massages.
And all of this is important as Hell.
And I care very much about all those things. I really do.
But I will never buy an electric motorcycle.
I am not even interested in riding them.
Four years before Harley launched its acclaimed-by-people-who-needHarley’s-advertising-dollars Livewire, it spent some time and effort fl ying journos in to try the prototype.
I was one of those journos, even though I am not a ‘journo’.
A few of us rode the Livewire around the Sepang racetrack carpark, then maybe two kilometres up and down the track’s access road. And then we went home.
It was, technically, an exciting new development, for sure. And ultimately, one of the most soulless, unengaging, and uninteresting motorcycles I have ever ridden. It was missing two crucial things.
It did not sound like a motorcycle. And it did not provide that critical organic feel, that vibration, that response, and hence connection to the power only internal combustion can provide.
Yes, I understand the “instant torque from standstill” thing. It is certainly there.
And I still don’t care. Not even a little bit.
Anyone who tells you how wonderful such a thing is, is missing the point of motorcycles entirely. Such people only care about any advertising dollars they can maybe siphon from Milwaukee while it still has them to spend.
I am not one of those people.
Electric motorcycles? Well it’s like riding tinnitus – that annoying and often madness-inducing high-pitched whine some people suffer from. You can take all the torque in the world and throw it straight into the sea if the motorcycle fails to provide any auditory attraction. One of the great and unique things riding bikes provides riders is the aural joy of hearing the exhaust note.
Harley, the very same company now hanging its corporate hopes on the whining Livewire, once tried to patent the unique “Potato, Potato, Potato” sound its Big Twin engines made at idle. It knew perfectly well what attracted customers to its big, clunky, poorlybraked, and ill-handling bikes.
I’m willing to bet very few people will be rushing out to purchase an AUD$40,000 Livewire.
And not one of those very few people will be a person who truly delights in riding motorcycles.
I do not want to ride a whining, keening electric bike.
Not now and not ever. And I won’t change my mind about it.
I do not want to ride a bike that doesn’t tell me it’s alive via the handlebars – at idle, or at speed, or when I’m downchanging like a fiend into a savage corner. Especially then.
No less a personage than BMW’s Development Director, Klaus Frölich, gets it – and he’s a bloody car bloke! He said at a recent European industry event: “There are no customer requests for
BEVs (Battery Electric Vehicles). None. There are regulator requests for BEVs, but no customer requests. If we have a big offer, a big incentive, we could flood Europe and sell a million (BEVs). But Europeans won’t buy these things.”
And it’s not only Europeans.
I’m thinking the only people who will buy electric motorcycles (or indeed cars), are people for whom such a vehicle is merely transport.
No-one who enjoys the visceral, primal, atavistic joy of the ride, and who rides for the sheer thrill and pleasure the ride provides, will ever buy one.
No matter how much torque these things make.
The only other people who will buy one are those who are forced to do so through government legislation.
Klaus said as much. The only people who want electric vehicles are legislators. And they only want them because they think it makes them sound all environmentally ‘woke’. And it’s just too hard (read: economically damaging to the government’s big-business buddies) to stop mining coal, stealing water, or clear-felling forests.
Let’s instead, and again, place the onus on the poor consumer and make it his business to be environmentally helpful, and make him buy an electric vehicle. Which is the only time I will buy one. When I am forced to do so. When there is no other alternative except being jailed as a dissident.
And maybe even not then.
That is several decades away in real terms. So I probably won’t live long enough to have to surrender in that way.
In the meantime, no force on earth will compel me to buy or own or even have any real interest in riding an electric motorcycle.
Because it’s not a motorcycle. It’s an appliance. D
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