Australian Motorcyclist Issue #76

Page 1


WINTER GEAR

There’s nothing like keeping warm in the winter

DUCATI DIAVEL

The

YAMAHA

BENELLI

“In the depth of winter I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer.”

As

Loads

Editor Stuart Woodbury

Contributing Editor J Peter Thoeming

Sales Manager Ralph Leavsey-Moase ralph@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

Photo Editor Nick Wood

Designer Amy Hale

Photographers Nick Wood Photography, Half-Light Photography

Contributors Robert Crick, Jacqui Kennedy, Robert Lovas, Boris Mihailovic, Chris Pickett, The Possum, Colin Whelan, Bob Wozga

Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

Subscription enquiries www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au 0412 220 680

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EDITORSPEAKS

Flyin’ high!

IT’S BEEN EXTREMELY busy for me lately – a little more than usual as I’ve been to Spain for the Ducati Diavel 1260 launch and ridden half of the BMW GS Safari amongst getting all the other material ready for your delectation. It was my first time to Spain, flying into Madrid, then having a domestic flight to Malaga. It was where I learnt a lesson of international travel. The local airline, Iberia, has a rather different check-in policy to anywhere else in the world I’ve travelled. Just because you’ve booked a ticket does not guarantee you a seat! They require you to check-in online the day before the flight (to basically say you’ll be there), then check-in for real when you get to the airport for your flight. I rocked up to Madrid airport for my flight (allowing plenty of time before the flight, too) to be told that because I didn’t check-in online the day before I was now on standby. I mentioned that the ticket had been booked a couple of weeks prior, but the attendant said it means nothing as they always aim to over book all flights and if they couldn’t get me on a flight I’d be compensated - doesn’t really help a poor Aussie bloke that’s flown halfway round the world to get there. I was told the best I could do was go to the gate of the flight going to Malaga (a half hour walk) and beg the gate staff for a seat. Long story short, I did manage to get a seat and it was rather worrying times as I had Ducati staff waiting for me at Malaga. My bag also made it with me – another relief.

Tips like this make worldwide travel much

easier for all of us, so let me know what travel tips you’ve got to share with everyone! Email me at stuart@ ausmotorcyclist.com.au .

Riding out of Malaga the Ducati launch rode the ‘famous’ A376 road to the town of Ronda – a town where all of the buildings are white, quite a sight to see. The road was smooth and twisty – much fun was had ;)

Finally, I know that you should hydrate when riding any form of motorcycle but I’ve always found it to be more useful when I’ve been racing at the track and especially while adventure riding (times when you’re working a bit harder). I managed to forget my Klim hydration pack for the BMW GS Safari and suffered as a result. Alcohol does not hydrate the body (as much as I hoped it would) and I could feel cramps starting to set in on my final day of riding and a severe loss of energy.

Please remember to pack some water in your tank bag, topbox or panniers if you’re not carrying a hydration pack and make a habit of stopping regularly to drink the water! A hydration pack eliminates the need to stop as you can take a sip from the mouth piece at any time. I’m lucky I’m experienced enough to handle myself out in the dirt but for someone less experienced it could have meant a damaged bike and possibly a trip to hospital from that crash! Something to keep in the back of the mind at all times.

Cheers, Stuart.

L-R: Chris Harris (MC Trader), Mark Fattore (Bikesales), Me, and Lukey Luke (BMW Stunt rider) enjoying a coffee and talking BS!

BIG MUZZ RETIRES

After 32 years legend, Murray Sayle is retiring from Kawasaki Motors Australia.

Murray officially retires on the 30th of June 2019 with his last day in the Kawasaki office on Wednesday 24th April 2019. Murray has a well-known passion for the Kawasaki brand. The green blood infiltrated Murray’s system in-full once he stepped on-board the H2R 750cc 3-cylinder race bike for Ron Toombs in 1974.

“My proudest racing moment was winning the Australian Road Race Championship in 1978, but I still regret not winning the New Zealand Marlboro 250 series in 1977-78” – Murray Sayle.

Murray has been a good friend to us and we here at Australian Motorcyclist wish him all the best for the future.

ANGELS FLYING HIGH

Pirelli presents Angel GT II, the new tyre that claims to rewrite the rules of the Sport Touring segment in terms of mileage, wet performance and sportiness combined with safety. It is the new Pirelli Sport Touring tyre, the successor of the highly regarded, award winning Angel GT and the evolution of the Italian brand’s interpretation of the Gran Turismo concept.

Pirelli has designed Angel GT II with the aim of rewriting the rules of the Sport Touring segment thanks to key features including high mileage, sporty handling and grip combined with fantastic wet

conditions behaviour and great confi dence and safety to the rider. The carcass with innovative variable cord end count over the tyre section and high-silica compounds combined with a new tread pattern design - derived from World Superbike ‘intermediate’ race tyresset the benchmark for performance and optimise the effect of electronic rider aids. As soon as they arrive in Australia, we’ll grab a set to test.

TOURING IN PERU

Motolombia runs several guided tours throughout South America, including the 14 Day South American Express, which starts in Cali and takes you overland through Ecuador and on to Peru, ending on a high in the beautiful and fascinating Andean town of Cusco, one of the oldest cities in the Americas. Peru has of course been a bucket list travel destination for decades, thanks to world-class natural and historical wonders like Machu Picchu and the Nazca Lines. But what does Peru have in store for adventurers setting out to explore the country on two

wheels? Find out by getting in touch with the crew at Motolombia! www.motolombia.com booking@motolombia.com

CHOOSE YOUR TRAX ADVENTURE

Whether you are looking for a top case or side case set-up, SW-Motech has put kits together which take the guess work out of configuring your luggage set-up. The kits are available for a wide range of bikes but if you can’t find a listing for your bike on Australian distributor Motorrad Garage’s website just give them a call and they’ll see if they can make up a set for you. Motorrad Garage has sweetened the

deal with some great specials on each set-up. Get in touch to find out –Sydney: 53 Parramatta Road Lidcombe NSW 2141, T: 02 9748 3006. Perth: 1/108 Welshpool Rd Welshpool WA 6106, T: 08 9350 9052.

E: info@motorradgarage.com.au W: www.motorradgarage.com.au

SLIPPED THROUGH YOUR FINGERS

Aprilia’s RSV4 X special 225hp, 165kg machine was unveiled at Aprilia All Stars at Mugello Circuit and once

online ordering was enabled, the ten (only) units were snapped up within hours for 39,900 Euro (about $63,300AUD) each. They feature many special Aprilia Racing parts; one special item is the gearbox, which is Aprilia’s ANN system (Aprilia No Neutral), the gearbox with neutral positioned below first gear that speeds up shifting from first to second and prevents any up-shifting errors. A solution that derives directly from Aprilia’s experience in SBK and MotoGP. If you want one you’ll need to hunt various websites around the world and bring your money with you.

HIMALAYAS BY LESS CONVENTIONAL MEANS

The Himalayas are on many travellers bucket lists, but if you’ve only got a week or two off work it’s not easy to ‘squeeze them in’…until now, that is.

Whilst the usual mode of transport for tourists in the Himalayas is by foot, The Adventurists have chosen a less conventional means of getting over 5000-metre mountain passes - Rickshaws.

The Rickshaw Run Himalaya is now in its second year and offers a

week-long Himalayan experience like no other.

Starting in Leh, a highdesert city in northern India, the Run follows the famous Leh-Manali Highway and Spiti Valley route to finish around 650 miles later in the foothills of Shimla. ‘Highway’ is a very loose term for the route you follow, which is only open for four months of the year and winds its way up and over three huge passes including the Tanglang La pass, at a dizzying height of 5328 meters.

ROLL ON

Throttle Roll, the annual celebration of motorcycling and the must-do event for Sydney’s custom bike fans, is locked in for 18 May 2019.

What you get for your money

THE RICKSHAW

A 3-wheeled, 4-stroke air-cooled rickshaw, pimped to your own design with insurance and all the other necessary paperwork

Pre and post-launch shenanigans

Test driving, mechanical briefing, launch party and finish party

SOME KIT

A jerry can and a few key spare parts plus the tools to change them

THE ADVENTURE

A week of some of the most amazing adventuring possible in a rickshaw, or any three-wheeled vehicle for that matter

The Rickshaw Run Himalaya happens in June, starting in Leh and finishing in Shimla, and again in September in reverse. To find out more visit www. theadventurists.com/brochures/ rickshaw-run-himalaya

The expansive open warehouse areas at C ommune, 901 Bourke Street, Waterloo will ensure the celebrations that kick off at 11am will continue into the evening, regardless of weather conditions.

Yamaha Motor Australia is once again heavily involved with the celebrations, offering visitors the chance to convert a $10 raffle ticket into a brand new 2019 XSR900 valued at $12,999.

Supporting the spectacular display of custom bikes from Australia’s leading custom builders, Throttle Roll 2019 will feature live bands, moto themed artwork, moto markets, trade stands, food trucks, craft beer, Mutt Motorcycle Mini Movies, and the legendary Throttle Roll mechanical bull.

In addition to the XSR900 giveaway, all paying visitors will automatically go into the draw to win a $1000 lucky door prize. Booking online at www.throttleroll.com will put you in the running to win an overseas riding trip valued at $5000. Event entry tickets are $20 online, or $25 at the door. D

LONGER BATTERY LIFE. OPTIMAL PERFORMANCE.

IneeDeD to Be on my game when I stumbled out of the Iberia plane in Malaga and it was just as well that I kind of pulled up okay from the long flights. Not only was I riding the new ‘devil’ (or “Mega Monster” as Ducati call it) Diavel, now in 1260 form, but being in Spain I needed to remember to stay on the right hand side of the road! I survived, and I don’t think I resembled a tourist with no idea. It might not look like it to you and me, but the new Ducati Diavel 1260 has seen many changes from the outgoing model. They have made it a much nicer devil. Ducati claims around 90% of the new Diavel is different from the old model. A lot of the rear wheel steering from the fat 240mm tyre has gone, there is still a tiny bit (as expected) but the revisions made to the handling are excellent.

The model we rode at the world launch was the S version which has Ohlins suspension, Brembo M50 calipers and lighter 10-spoked wheels over the standard version. Ducati said during the entertaining presentation that the Diavel is now a blend of a sports naked (like the Monster range), superbike and cruiser, not so much a sports cruiser as it was in the past, and which position the XDiavel has kind of taken over.

MOtOr

The engine is the 1262cc Testastretta DVT with variable cam timing. Already used in the Multistrada and XDiavel, it has now been upgraded to optimise performance and been equipped with chain drive. This engine also provides a cleaner, classier side view than the outgoing 1200 engine and has a quality finish. The twincylinder 1260 puts out 117kW at 9500 rpm and 129Nm at 7500 rpm, with strong pulling power right from the get go, right up to redline! You’ll thank Ducati for the deep sculpting of the seat after riding this bike.

The variable timing system acts continuously on the intake and exhaust camshafts, with the engine adjusting power delivery to suit riding conditions: extremely smooth at low

revs, assertively sporty at high revs. They’ve matched this on the S version with the Ducati Quick Shift up & down Evo (DQS) as standard to allow clutchless shifting. It is smooth and allows for a swifter ride. You can get the quickshifter as an accessory on the standard version.

Old v New

Ducati showed a picture during the presentation of both the old and new bikes with the new in red and the old in white. Basically the only common parts between the two are the front tyre, front discs, front guard, handlebar, mirrors, cam cover, tail of the seat and the number plate guard. Some details to note that change how the Diavel rides is the 20mm longer wheelbase (1600mm now), longer rear wheel travel, the engine is 60mm further back, there’s a new swingarm, new subframe and of course the Ohlins suspension (on the S). The rear tyre also features a new profile that allows for faster turn in.

electrONics

Electronics (as with most of the Ducati range) are extensive. A Bosch 6-axis Inertial Measurement Unit (6D IMU) dynamically measures roll and pitch angles and the speed of relative changes in attitude, raising performance and safety standards ever higher. Then you’ve got Bosch Cornering ABS EVO, Ducati Traction Control (DTC) EVO, Ducati Wheelie

Control (DWC) EVO, Ducati Power Launch (DPL) EVO, cruise control and Ducati Multimedia System (DMS) (standard on the S).

The TFT instrument panel is the same one as featured on the 1260 Multistrada and it’s the first Ducati (apart from the Multi) to be fitted with this dash. The dashboard has four different display modes. Default mode provides a minimal ‘must-have’ level of information, presented in an attentively styled manner. The other three are the classic Track, Full and City display modes associated with the relevant Riding Modes. To set off the TFT dash the switchgear has retained the red-backlit keys - cruise control has its own dedicated keys to activate and adjust the speed settings. With the bike at standstill you can use the left switchgear to access a setting menu and adjust various functions such as DTC, DWC and ABS. It's also possible, with the bike parked or on the move, to choose between the Sport, Touring or Urban Riding Modes. The S features the Ducati Multimedia System (DMS), standard: a smartphone bluetooth-connected to the dashboard lets you see and handle incoming calls/text messages on the screen and display info on any music you happen to be listening to.

Design

Drawing on the key aesthetic concepts of its predecessor and bringing them up to date: on the new Diavel 1260 styling hallmarks include the forwardflung mass that gives the bike its aggressive stance, the streamlined tail and the prominent 240mm rear tyre. The three covers that make up the tank are made of sheet metal. These have been slimmed down in the seat contact zone to improve ergonomics for the rider. Two large brushed aluminium air intakes, which connect up the tank via a differently coloured C-frame, provide additional character (again, the concept derives from the first-generation Diavel). The short, compact tail houses an extractable passenger grab rail (as per the previous model) and the lights, giving the back of the Diavel 1260 a lightweight

sporty look that contrasts sharply with the beefy front.

Another key Diavel 1260 trait are the radiator side covers; these incorporate vertically arranged indicators that use “light blade” technology, a feature that required an in-depth lighting design effort. Embedded in the indicators is a transparent “blade”. This features graphics that, when the indicator comes on, generate a 3D effect that makes the new Diavel 1260 instantly recognisable.

The modern headlight with its distinctive upside-down horseshoeshape DRL (S version) merges perfectly with the smoke-tinted nose fairing that shields the instrumentation, making the front end of the Diavel 1260 striking to look at. It would also make for an intimidating view in someone’s rear view mirror.

Engine and frame play a major side-on styling role thanks to unique uncluttered outlines. Once again, seamless integration of parts is evident in the details: for example, the air intake for the horizontal cylinder belts, incorporated in the belly fairing, contains numerous electronic components and acts as an oil radiator cover.

RiDing

Our ride consisted of the “famous” A376 from Malaga to Ronda and back around, down the mountain. Intense levels of power are what you first notice, then once we got into the twisties the easier steering without the rear wanting to push the bike straight takes over. In fact I’d be delighted to punt this bike on a weekend blast; the increase in lean angle has seriously increased the fun.

How mucH

The Diavel 1260 is available in Grey or Black and pricing is set at $29,790 ride away for the standard and $34,890 ride away for the mighty S version. For the extra coin I reckon the S would be the go, especially the black with its red frame. It’s like a devil with its horns on fire... Diavel indeed! D

PRICE: $34,890 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 15,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled L-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, Desmodromic, 4 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 106 x 71.5mm

DISPLACEMENT: 1262cc

COMPRESSION: 13.0:1

POWER: 117kW @ 9500rpm

TORQUE: 129Nm @ 7500rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate slipper clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 48mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 120mm.

Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 130mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 780mm, weight 244kg (wet), fuel capacity 17 litres, wheelbase 1600mm

TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 240/45/ZR17

FRAME: Tubular steel trellis

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 265mm disc, twin-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A

THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A

COLOURS: Grey, Black

VERDICT: LET LOOSE THE DEVIL INSIDE

DUCATI DIAVEL 1260 S

FLY ME TO THE… SHOPS?

It looks like flying bikes are getting closer to reality

WORDS JAPAN TIMES / THE BEAR PHOTOS ALI TECHNOLOGIES INC

How many stories have we seen now about flying motorcycles? Some of them are clearly in serious development, some are wildly futuristic. Others seem to be both; Swiss-based Frenchman Ludovic Lazareth is working on a four-wheeled ‘bike’ he calls “La Moto Volante” which looks like every Stormtrooper’s nightmare. As happens so often, the Japanese have been working quietly on a concept that’s now been revealed as close to production. What’s more, it is intended for a genuine role in thirdworld transport. Tokyo-based venture company A.L.I. Technologies Inc. which mainly develops small drones, hopes to sell the product, called a “hover bike,” in emerging economies in Africa, the Middle East and Asia with poor road infrastructure. The company aims to release the mass-market flying motorcycle by 2022, Chief Executive Officer Shuhei Komatsu said. The bike is intended to be a step on the way to a flying car. Many companies around the world are developing flying cars. A.L.I. Technologies is among those trying to enter the market. “We’ll create a (flying) bike first, in order to get flying cars widely used in society eventually,” Komatsu said.

That seems like sound thinking. So does the design concept, which is far more user-friendly and safer than the scary ideas behind the flying bike that’s reportedly due to be delivered to United Emirates cops. It also uses proven technologies.

“Our hover bike is an ensemble of drone technologies,” Komatsu said, expressing confidence that his company can commercialize the flying motorcycle. The envisioned vehicle will use propeller power to hover dozens of centimeters above the ground. It will stay at the desired altitude through technologies that use sensors to avoid obstacles.

A.L.I. Technologies is developing a special limited version for sale around late next year. Reservations will be accepted this May.

As for the mass-market model, Komatsu said, “We want to deliver it to customers from around 2022.” He said the price will roughly match those of small wheeled vehicles. He added that the company hopes the flying motorcycle will be usable on public roads in Japan.

Adoption in third world countries will be a matter of getting the price down far enough, but the idea of using the hover bike as an introduction for flying cars sounds like a good one. D

AS I’M SURE YOU’LL recall, Voltaire said, “Le mieux est l’ennemi du bien”. And so, New Zealand’s South Island regularly eclipses the North for visiting motorcyclists. Is that fair?

There is probably no doubt that the South Island’s package of attractions makes it “le mieux”. Snow-capped mountains, fjords, lakes and hot springs along with some outstanding roads and the constant expectation that the Riders of Rohan will pop up on the next ridge create a pretty much unrivalled combination. But if we narrow things down a bit and settle for slightly (and only slightly) less impressive scenery, the North Island comes up quite well. I decided

1.Watch’ out in Tikitiki!
2. Clean beaches, rugged headlands and fast roads behind them. Can I move to Unzud?
3. Timber jinkers are a regular presence on this road. Just give them plenty of room.

Snifffing petrol

There’s a scare story that there’s no fuel around the East Cape road but that’s not true. Several towns on SH35 between Napier and Opotiki have petrol stations. Some of them are unattended and you’ll need a credit card; few if any of the others are open 24 hours, but they almost all have card payment facilities for after-hours service. Let’s face it, though, you’re hardly likely to be riding this road at night – not much chance to admire the scenery, and there are lots of possums just waiting to get tangled up in your spokes.

Petrol and diesel are available at Bayview, Wairoa, Nuhaka, Manutuke, Makaraka, Gisborn, Tolaga Bay, Tokomaru Bay, Te Puia, Ruatoria, Te Araroa, Waihau Bay and Tirohanga. Premium petrol may not be offered everywhere.

to see just how “bien” it could be by sampling a road I had never ridden despite my many visits to Unzud. State Highways 2 and 35 take you From Napier on Hawke Bay to anywhere you like on the Bay of Plenty; I chose to end my ride at Opotiki where you have the option to return to Napier by way of another –and by all reports also terrific - bit of State Highway 2. Oops. I’ve given it

1. Napier not only has classic buildings, it also has classic cars – and classic blokes.

2. If you look at this sign really carefully, you’ll see what ‘KFC’ means.

3. A side road running down to the shore near Potaka.

away. Yes, the road around East Cape really is terrific.

Napier makes an interesting place to start the ride. I reached it by the road from Taupo through the Ahimanawa Range, 130km of excellent riding in its own right. There is no fuel anywhere along here, but New Zealand has demonstrated its commitment to the future by installing two electric recharging stations. No problem for my Yamaha Tracer 900, of course. The old part of Napier is often called ‘the Art

Deco capital of NZ’ because it was rebuilt in that style after the 1931 earthquake which remains New Zealand’s most devastating natural disaster. It’s worth visiting the Art Deco Centre to find out more about both the earthquake and the rebuilding.

While I’m on the topic, the Art Deco buildings are fine, but a shortsighted local authority has approved more modern buildings among the old ones, which does significant damage to the

streetscape. Why?

Napier has a decent number of bars both small and large which feature some of the country’s craft brews along with local wines, as well as a good range of restaurants. As elsewhere in Unzud, outdoor seating is a big thing and it makes for a good atmosphere as you walk around the streets named after great Englishlanguage poets. The street names are set in a typeface called Broadway, which comes from the correct era but is bloody hard to read.

Leave on SH2 heading north and it doesn’t take long before you strike – not literally, I hope – the dominant road users. They’re log trucks, and they are among the very few things on this road that are, well, less than perfect. They’re pretty much ubiquitous, too. But if you leave Napier reasonably early, they’re all coming in the opposite direction so they’re not a problem. Well, they do cut corners just a little. Other traffic is relatively light even between the major centres of

Napier and Gisborne. A word of warning: try not to do this ride in March when the local councils are all trying to spend their left-over road maintenance funds!

You’ll pass some wineries at Bay View, and the road follows the shore as far as Tangoio Bluff. There it leaves the coast, but it’s no less scenic. At Tangoio Falls Scenic Reserve there’s a short track that takes you to the falls, and I’m told that it’s a good place for a dip. A little further along is Lake Tutira, which is known for

1.Whetumataerau Cliffs at Te Araroa.The road to East cape lighthouse runs along the bottom of the cliff.

2. Can’t you just imagine your wheels gripping that road and carrying you onwards?

3.The Mineral Hot Pool at the Te Puia Hotel is small but nice, and it’s free to guests.

4.Waihau Bay again, with my Yamaha Tracer 900! I guess I really liked both of them.

5.The fishing wharf at Waihau Bay.What is it with Waihau Bay, already?

6. New Zealand’s longest wharf, or as we would probably say, ‘pier’.

birdwatching. The road continues through valleys and low ridges; the corners make it a real bike road.

Wairoa is a nice little place, good for a coffee stop. Two things I might just mention here: the coffee is pretty good almost (but only almost) everywhere in New Zealand these days, although you shouldn’t expect anything flash out along this road. Food is pretty basic, too. And unless you’re Australian and used to finding nothing but a derelict public hall where your map insists there’s a town, you will have to get used to there being nothing or perhaps a derelict public hall here as well, even if a town name appears on the map. From Wairoa to Nuhaka the road is faster with fewer and more open corners. Nuhaka’s tiny fish shop –

or shed - is worth noting. It looks remarkably (almost deliberately) run down but it produces excellent fish and chips. If you turn off to the east here to Mahia, you can continue along Mahia Peninsula to New Zealand’s own space port, a satellite launching site. I don’t know that they welcome visitors, though.

Just up the road, Morere Hot Springs offers private and public hot and cold pools – I’m not sure what the difference is because you pay for both. But the setting in rainforest is beautiful, and the place is well worth a stop if you’re into hot springs like I am. From here the road continues north, back in the ranges at first and then on the coastal flats. At Bartletts I encountered the first of several road signs completely new to me: they

seemed to be warnings against seals.

I’m happy to recommend the fish and chip shop at Makaraka on the outskirts of Gisborne. It doesn’t look much from the outside either, but the batter on the fish was beautifully crisp and the chips were good. As far as Makaraka we’ve been on SH2. Through Gisborne and for the rest of this ride we’ll be an SH35, an even quieter road after an already quiet one. I might be being unfair, but Gisborne is one of those places that’s too small to be impressive but too big to be charming. Nothing wrong with the place, but I would only stop here to take a look at the Captain Cook Monument and landing site, just off to the right along the Esplanade after the Turanaganui bridge. Other than that – onwards!

Fush and Chups from the shed! It looks dubious, but the products are just fine.

Mind your language

It will pay you to learn a few words of te reo, the Maori language. Not so much to communicate with the locals, unless you want to entertain them. In my experience they find Pakeha (our) attempts hilarious; it’s hard for us to match the sounds. No, it’s good to have a few words so you can translate town and other names. It gives you some insight into the way Maori people see the world.

aroha (love)

awa (river)

haka (generic term for Maori dance)

hangi (traditional feast prepared in earth oven)

hapu (clan, sub-tribe; to be born)

hikoi (walk)

hui (gathering, meeting)

iti (small)

iwi (tribe)

kai (food)

koha (gift, present (usually money, can be food or precious items, given by guest to hosts)

mahi (work or activity)

mana (prestige, reputation)

manuhiri (guests, visitors)

marae (the area for formal discourse in front of a meeting house, or applied to a whole marae complex)

maunga (mountain)

moana (sea)

motu (island)

nui (large, many, big)

pa (hill fort)

Pakeha (New Zealander of non-Maori descent, usually European)

pounamu (greenstone, jade)

puku (belly, stomach)

rangatira (person of chiefly rank, boss)

tamariki (children)

tane (man, husband, men, husbands)

taonga (treasured possessions or cultural items, anything precious)

tapu (sacred, not to be touched, to be avoided because sacred, taboo)

tipuna/ tupuna (ancestor)

wahine (woman, wife)

wai (water)

waiata (song or chant)

whanau (extended family)

whenua (land, homeland)

And don’t forget “rumble strips”, a Pakeha phrase meaning “big boo… er, bumps”.

Just ten kilometres from Gisborne, at Makorori Point, is the grave of fifty-nine whales. They stranded themselves among the rocks there in 1970 and died in “a seething, bleeding mass” according to a newspaper report. This was just a few days before a visit by the Queen, and local Maori thought that the Royal Tour had been the cause of the stranding. They pointed out that major human tragedies had coincided with previous royal visits, and in this case the whales had taken the rap. As a result they were declared ‘tangata’ or people, and their grave is revered like a human burial site.

For the next forty or fi fty kilometres to Tolaga Bay this is a wonderful road, following the shoreline at fi rst and then taking off into the hills. No settlements disturb the free-fl owing ride on the Yamaha, the surface and the corners are just about perfect and… far be it from me to encourage speeding.

Take the turnoff to Tolaga Bay and have a look at New Zealand’s longest wharf. It really is long, no lie eh. The road picks up where it left off and it’s a terrific run north to Tokomaru Bay. The town itself

appears to be pretty much dead, but the Te Puka tavern just a little way up the coast on a side road seemed pretty busy. It gets mixed reviews, but I was booked into the Te Puia Hotel anyway, ten kilometres up the main road. Apart from the hotel, Te Puia has a general store with a small café and a KFC. Not Kentucky Fried Chicken, but Kai (Maori for food) For Coasties. New Zealanders have a way of taking the piss out of big international brands; google ‘Formerly the Blackball Hilton’ some time for a laugh.

The Te Puia Hotel is a hostel these days, which mainly means it’s cheaper than a hotel with much the same facilities. It has a bar and a hot pond, both of which I used enthusiastically. My room was small but comfortable, and the Tracer was stored safely behind the pub. I was initially concerned about traffi c noise, seeing my room faced the veranda and the road, but of course this was the Coast; there wasn’t any traffi c at night as far as I could tell. Back on the road again in the morning after breakfast at the café I found myself on yet another superb and seemingly endless road. There is a lot to be said for major roads through thinly-settled countryside and this is as thinly settled as any agricultural country can really be and still stay important enough to get that good and well-maintained road. Whoops, there goes another log truck… and another reason for the standard of the road. When you have log trucks you’d better look after the road or it will

simply disintegrate. Those things stress even the best-laid tar seal. That’s all right with me; it gave me the opportunity to really use the Yamaha’s abilities.

Around here is where the East Cape War of 1865 took place. Unusually, this involved not only New Zealand government forces against Maori, but also fi ghting among followers of the fundamentalist Pai Marire religion and conservative Maori armed by the government. Pai Marire involved “ancient rites of cannibalism and propitiation of Maori gods with the human heart torn from the fi rst slain in a battle,” according to James Cowan. An interesting thought as you ride through the impenetrable bush that covers much of East Cape.

In Tikitiki, a town named after the famous early Maori watchmakers*, you turn sharp left as the road cuts across the hills behind East Cape. You reach the sea again at Te Araroa, where a road leads around the coast to East Cape Lighthouse. Sadly, both the food and the coffee at the café were, um, er, bloody awful but the giant 600-year old pohutukawa tree Te Waha o Rerekohu just along the beachfront, the largest in the world**, is worth seeing and photographing. There is a theory that pohutukawa trees originated in Australia, but I would never maintain that. Never, eh. Not while I was in Unzud.

You get a chance to relax on the first part of the 11km run to Hicks Bay, but then it’s on again for young and, in my case, old. The road wiggles its

way along behind the coastal range before reaching the coast again at Whangaparaoa, one of the places where Maori canoes reached New Zealand in the year 1350. It’s easy to see why they stayed; this is beautiful and rich country.

From here almost all the way to Opotiki the road follows the coastline and provides the same enjoyable riding as it does along the eastern leg of your journey. The Yamaha with its light steering and responsive engine was in its element. It’s worth stopping at Waihau Bay with its pretty wharfside pub and pleasant small store, but essentially you’re on a free run south through coastal bush, paddocks and steep ridges which the road climbs by tidy corners.

This run beats many of the world’s supposed great motorcycle roads, hands down. Where can you fi nd better? The Great Ocean Road? Nah. Highway 1 through Big Sur and on down the California coast? Puhleese. Even SH2 along the Sough Island’s west coast? Uh huh. Make some notes – New Zealand. North Island. East Cape. SH35. And when you’re there, make a point of relaxing in the hot pool at the Te Puia Hotel. You can decide whether it’s “le mieux” or just “bien”.

*Just kidding. **Have you ever wondered who validates these kinds of claims? Not arguing, you understand!

My thanks to Yamaha Motor NZ for lending me the Tracer 900. I couldn’t have asked for a better bike on these amazing roads. D

BMW EVENT

GS SAFARI

The GS Safari was an Australian idea born back in 1994 and was an event that included both road and adventure BMW motorcycles for a mostly bitumen ride. The roles of the ‘Safari’ concept/event split a few years later with both the TS (road) Safari and the GS (off-road) Safari becoming extremely popular events for BMW owners/riders.

2013 saw another Safari added into the fold – the GS Safari Enduro for those looking for a more hardcore adventure. I recently attended the 25th anniversary GS Safari which started from Windsor NSW heading towards the final destination of Coffs Harbour – my 7th ‘Safari’ in total. I attended the first three days which included the sign on/welcome dinner party, first riding day of Windsor to the Hunter Valley and the second riding day of Hunter Valley to Port Macquarie.

I’ve done a great mix of all three Safari versions and can say without any hesitation that attending one will be one of the best things you can do with your pants on. Just be wary of the end of Safari drinks where things can get a little wild – especially at the Enduro event!

For those unfamiliar with BMW Safari, when you book your spot the following is included –

• A week long planned route covering fantastic roads

• Daily rider briefings

• Custom Safari event t-shirt

• Personal copy of the official Safari video (GS Safari only)

• Route maps and GPS files

• Full BMW support crew (technical, medical, tyre support)

• BMW Roadside Assistance sweep vehicle

• BMW Off Road Training (GS Safari only, extra cost applies)

• Luggage support

• Motorcycle transport to and/or from the Safari if required (extra cost applies)

Pillions are welcome on the TS Safari. Having attended all three versions of Safari I’ve come to realise the different level of ‘journey’ each one provides,

but all have a common theme –many new friends will be made and I’ve seen long term friendships grow out of these events.

Special things like top class accommodation and restaurants are what you’ll find on the TS version, and mostly the GS matches this level, whereas the Enduro is more camping out under the stars. The 25th anniversary GS Safari saw excellent accommodation choices and food – well done on the choices made, team BMW Safari.

The first two days riding took in some spectacular sights. Rolling greenery, tight and twisty bitumen and of course loads of dirt trails – some technical sections, but mostly great trails that allowed many first timers to really find their feet in the dirty stuff.

The first day’s riding saw us go from Windsor to the Settler Arms Inn, St Albans (for a great bacon & egg roll), through the Watagans National Park to Laguna, Wollombi, Heaton Lookout, Freemans Waterhole and into the ‘jump’ section before heading into Hunter Valley. The ‘jump’ section was around 50 erosion mounds. Many of the riders rolled over them but I had some fun launching into the air over the ones that I could clearly see over – the ones you couldn’t see over were the ones that could catch you out as many dropped away into holes and deep ruts.

Day two we rode bitumen to Dungog then hit the dirt through Monkerai and Barrington Tops National Park to Gloucester. The next section onto Port Macquarie was simply stunning – amazing (car free) tight and twisty bitumen with scenery to blow your mind and dirt trails with plenty to see with the valley below and rolling green hills. Included in this are Flat Rock Lookout and Bago Bluff National Park.

I was still around for the morning of Day three which saw the riders do a loop out and back to Port Macquarie past Comboyne and Ellenborough Falls. Day four was on to Armidale where BMW Stunt Rider, Lukey Luke performed and the local council cooked up a mighty feast for all. The

Pack Your Gear On The Rear

final day was into Coffs Harbour to enjoy a cold ale or two and laugh and remember the week that just flew by. This year there were a number of international participants. A couple of Swiss, some Americans and a bunch of Brazilians who tasted Aussie dust for the first time. After talking with a couple of the Brazilians over some ‘light refreshments’ I was

surprised that two of them had never taken a bike off-road before. I passed one of them out on the trail the next day and he was handling the dusty, gravelly conditions very well and the main part was the speechless smile on the dial which really does sum up how good a time one can have on an event like this.

Stay in touch with everything BMW

Safari for future events. Sign up to the newsletter via https://bmwsafari. com/ , email the BMW Safari crewadmin@bmwsafari.com and stay in touch through Facebook and Instagram. Every one of the Safaris sells out rather fast so you need to be on the ball and lock in your spot when the time comes. Roll on the 30th anniversary and I’ll see you there! D

Yamaha haS reinvented the RD250/350LC of years past in the 2019 R3. Many of you have probably spat out your Earl Grey tea at the very thought a modern small capacity machine could bring back those heady days of two-stroke freedom and performance, but there you go, I said it. And it’s true. I spent two days pretending I had a full head of hair, was 30 kilos lighter, and sexy to boot as I revved the quince out of the R3 on the road and track.

When I was a teenager I had posters of Warren Willing on a TZ750, a Katana 1100 with a naked girl and an RD250LC on my bedroom wall. There were some sexy female pop stars up there as well but none of them were attainable for this spotty faced youth, except maybe for the little Yammy

stroker. As a first year apprentice though, my main mode of transport was a pushbike. My first road motorcycle was an XS250 Yamaha that wasn’t very fast or attractive. You couldn’t call it the great grandfather of the R3. That title goes to the RD. I think the XS was more like a great uncle who was a little simple, and had three teeth in his head.

I never did buy an RD, and I think my life has been a bit poorer for it. Instead of two stroke roadies, the guys I looked up to in my town all rode big four strokes in t-shirts, jeans and thongs. Crazy I know but in those days of unrestricted machinery on L plates (as long as you had your full car licence) you could go big bore. Plus the kid a street over from mine who was a bit

of a dickhead tainted the whole RD dream as he smoked his way around town on a worn out pressure pack yellow LC. Not cool at all.

Like those early RDs there’s a race series for 300cc four strokes as part of the Australian Superbike Series, where a new generation of impressionable youngsters from the age of 13 are reminding us old blokes of the glory of youth, slim waistlines and the days when mum and dad paid all the bills. Funny how my mum and dad never seemed to have that sort of disposable cash, or access to finance. Anyway, the R3 fits right in here (other bikes like the Ninja 400 and KTM 390 are eligible too) and 15-year-old Max Stauffer currently leads the Supersport 300 championship on an R3.

New for 19

While the 2019 R3 isn’t a total redesign from the 2018 model, it does have a few updates to make it a better road and track bike. New KYB upside down forks replace the spindly ‘normal’ ones, and of course this necessitated new stronger triple clamps. Clip on handlebars are now placed under the top clamp instead of above as before, and this does produce a sportier riding position. This is somewhat moderated by the lower profile and reshaped fuel tank, so overall there’s more room for the rider. Under the skin there’s no difference between the 2018 and 2019 models. As for looks, the R6/ R1 style fairing and tail unit look the business and I can imagine plenty of impressionable youngsters pinning up posters of the R3 on their

bedroom walls, just like I did all those years ago with the RD.

UNclothed

Like the old RDLCs, the engineering in the R3 is fairly basic in the scheme of things, at least compared to bigger, flashier machinery. There’s no traction control or Flash Gordon (remember him?) electronics systems on board but there is ABS and a beaut LCD dash with all the info a new, or old for that matter, rider needs.

37mm KYB forks, monoshock, both with pre-load adjustment, 298mm single disc and two-piston caliper, alloy wheels with heaps of cool spokes, a diamond style steel frame and a 14 litre fuel tank pretty much sums up the important bits. On paper at least. No one really cares what the compression

ratio is, or if it has four, eight or ten valves per cylinder do they?

That’s all well and good but what’s it like to ride I hear you ask. How many bikes have ever been bought off spec sheets? A few by weirdos probably but sales brochures of bikes aimed at impressionable youngsters aren’t full of economy figures and screen heights are they? No, it’s about power and coolness. And the R3 has both, relatively speaking of course.

hold it flat aNd steer it

You can do this on the R3 when the road opens up, the sun is shining, there’s no ‘po po’ around, and you’ve taken your brave pills. You truly can, and the bike revels in it. It loves it in fact.

Around town it’s very easy to ride,

LAUNCH

with enough torque so that you don’t need to be cog swapping like a crazy person. You leave that stuff until later, when racing is on the cards. It’s got plenty of room too. I squeezed onto the bike without feeling like Quasimodo and I dare say a person of limited height will not struggle to control the beast, so to speak. It’s light, narrow, roomy and comfy. All things you want and need for day-to-day terrorism of traffic on your way to work.

Around town there were no complaints about the brakes or handling. I mean, on paper, the brakes and suspension are fairly basic, and they are good around town because they aren’t being ‘stretched’. Yes, the KYB forks look flash in anodised gold, sort of like an old bloke with a gold chain who you know has no substance behind the bling, but how good are they, really, when the pace gets upped?

A lot better than you might think. During the launch we threw peak hour traffic and open road hooliganism at the R3, and to top it off we took it to the race track. For a machine with minimal adjustment and a single two pot front caliper I was gobsmacked at how well this bike worked on the road, even at speeds likely to see you in front of a magistrate, and your best girl, boy or whatever, offering you sexual favours because you’re so bad.

A good example of this was on one lengthy section of near deserted road where caution was thrown to the wind and we raced each other in a freight train of LAMS lunacy at near the magical ton. Some of the more lithe among us even managed an extra 10km/h I’m led to believe. Up at these naughty speeds the bike handled extremely well, and the fun had keeping the R3 on the boil to keep the bike in front in sight was just magical. To ride a big bore bike at that sort of pace is much easier. You don’t need the finesse or the ability to get the best out of it, like you do a machine like the R3. When you get it right, it’s a bit special.

TRACK MARKS

At the new Luddenham raceway in Western Sydney we were able to ride our sporty little R3s on a tight and

twisty track, a track just made for the R3. We were to witness some of the young Yamaha racers strutting their stuff, as well as Damien Cudlin on an R1. To watch Cudlin manhandling the R1 around such a tight track was inspiring to watch, and equally inspiring was watching these youngsters riding their Yamaha R3s and R15s to their limit. As it turns out, their limit was much faster than mine. That’s OK. I have a real aversion to falling off these days.

It was here we could really flog this bike with gay abandon. We’d already done so the day before, but this time it was unlikely I’d be arrested for doing so. It didn’t take long for some intermagazine racing to start happening and it really rammed home the fact that a bike like this is so much fun to ride hard. You’re not worried about running out of road or high-siding yourself. You could I guess but you’d have to be a bit of a wobbler to do so. Just like when I was chasing guys on the road, around the track had me laughing at myself for the sheer carefree fun of it all. I’m not suggesting you go out and disregard speed limits or make yourself a leper in society by riding irresponsibly. But you could, and you’d laugh doing it.

The track didn’t show up any design flaws with the standard bike, including the single disc/caliper set up.

As a whole, the bike worked very well, even with an old fat Alexi Sayle lookalike on its back. I even got to try a race-kitted R3, like the youngsters would race, with rear sets, race pipe, grippy tyres etc. I don’t think it actually went any faster than the standard bike but geez it looked trick. And I got my right knee down. My left leg must be shorter.

DO YOU REALLY NEED TO GO BIG

You know, it turns out I don’t need 1000cc to have fun. I only need 321cc. And at $6299 plus on roads, that’s a lot of cheap fun, and a cheap workhorse for the weekday grind. But imagine having a group of friends all with an R3 and letting loose for a day ride, or even a trip interstate for the GP? What a hoot that would be. You could all pretend to be teenagers again. D

SPECS

YAMAHA R3

PRICE: $6299 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled parallel twin cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 68 x 44.1mm

DISPLACEMENT: 321cc

COMPRESSION: 11.2:1

POWER: N/A

TORQUE: N/A

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 37mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, travel 130mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, travel 125mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 780mm, weight 167kg (wet), fuel capacity 14 litres, wheelbase 1380mm

TYRES: Front, 110/70/17. Rear, 140/70/17

FRAME: Diamond

BRAKES: Front, 298mm disc with twin-piston ABS caliper. Rear, 220mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A

THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A

COLOURS:Yamaha Blue, Power Black, Satin Candy Red

VERDICT: THE FUN THAT CAN BE HAD!

BENELLI TRK 502X

WHen someone in your industry has a highly successful model, the temptation must be just about irresistible to produce your own version of that bike. In fact we know it’s irresistible; take the most successful bike of recent decades, BMW’s (now 1250) GS, and you’ll see that even

Harley-Davidson is creating a bike for the same market.

Let’s face it, though, shooting for the same market can also mean shooting yourself in the foot. It’s true that there are worthy competitors for the big GS, all developed at significant expense, but none of them have been able to approach the BMW’s sales

numbers. The Bavarians have even covered their backsides by launching smaller versions of the GS concept with the 310 and now 750 / 850, all of which have also been successful even though they have not come close to Big Brother’s sales.

But if you read our mail and some of the club magazines, or listen to riders

at the café or the pub, there is a gap in the GS-type market that BMW is addressing, except marginally with the 301. That’s a lighter, simpler, lower and cheaper bike – but above all a lighter one.

I’m not sure if Benelli has heard the same laments as I have, and has tried to address them with the TRK 502X, or if they simply thought that a smaller capacity GS-type bike would be a good idea. If they were listening, they didn’t pay quite enough attention; the 502X is certainly cheaper and simpler, but with a seat height of

850mm and a kerb weight of 235kg it only makes two out of four. Still not bad, and the seat height is probably inescapable, but I wouldn’t mind if the design engineers had sent the bike on a weight saving diet and lopped off thirty kilos or so. Three out of four would be terrific.

On the other hand, the 500cc parallel twin of the TRK 502X is not especially stressed by the weight. I’ve just put a couple of thousand kilometres on our long-termer and I’ve been impressed.

The TRK will sit happily on 130

km/h all day (under controlled conditions, of course) and still have enough punch for overtaking. At that travelling speed, the engine is revving a little high for my tastes at 7000rpm, not that it seems to mind but maybe somewhat higher gears would be an idea. No problem, of course; it has a chain final drive so you can adjust that if you want to.

Ergonomics are good, brakes are okay if not brilliant, and the Bosch ABS is a welcome feature. I have no complaints about the handling and turn-in is light. The Metzeler Tourance

tyres show that the bike is intended more for road and light gravel duties (although it is somewhat more adventury than its cheaper 502 sibling), but it performs those well. I spent some considerable time on gravel back roads and I have no complaints except during the twenty kilometre sandy stretch when the tyres, but not the bike, were… stressed. So was I, initially, but once I slowed down a bit and stood up for a while I was fine. I am no gun, as you might have noticed.

On the open road two things really stand out about the Benelli TRK

502X and they’re both important. One, the complex windscreen works beautifully. It kept me comfortable and stopped the multitude of insects from covering me in their tiny little corpses. Absolute top marks, Benelli. As well, the seat is as comfortable as any that I’ve tried in recent years. A 550km ride on day one of my trip left me able to walk in a fashion as close to normal as I can ever manage, and by the time I was on my second beer there was no sign of soreness. Again, top marks. There is one other thing that stands

out, and that’s the fuel economy and range. I wasn’t hanging about on my ride but I got 3.9 litres per 100km, which gives an amazing better than 502km range from the 20 litre tank.

The Benelli TRK 502X is an interesting proposition for anyone looking for that simpler and cheaper bike – and if you want a lower one you can always go for its less adventure-orientated TRK 502 sibling, which is even cheaper than the X’s $8490. Let’s hope Benelli hears and heeds the call for weight loss to make it four out of four. D

LAUNCH TEAROUTMAP#76

DAM IT!

THIS RIDE IS A NICE run out to Gordon Dam and back with loads to see and do along the way. The road itself can be busy with tourists but there’s some great twisties to be enjoyed.

HOBART

Hobart is a small city with a big heart, Open it up and there’s so much to see and do you’ll think you’re in one of the mainland big cities!

Dine at Hobart’s best restaurants

The culinary scene in Hobart is a champion of local produce. Join the locals along the popular dining strips in historic Salamanca or North Hobart. Or choose from a selection of quality city and waterfront restaurants.

Marvel at MONA Board a ferry at Hobart’s Brooke Street Pier and sail upstream to the daring Museum of Old and New Art, (MONA). Australia’s largest privately owned museum is cut into sandstone cliffs in the northern suburbs, with an art collection as eclectic as it is provocative. The food might almost qualify as art at MONA’s onsite restaurant, Source. Directly beneath the restaurant is the cellar door for

MONA’s Moorilla winery, with wines produced from the vineyards that adjoin the gallery. Be sure to try MONA’s Moo Brew beer range while you’re here.

Climb Mount Wellington

Take a 30-minute ride from the city centre to reach the summit of Mount Wellington, almost 1300 metres (4265 feet) above the city. The view of Hobart and its surrounds is exceptional. Grab a coffee halfway up the mountain at the Bentwood Coffee caravan, and make a stop at Australia’s oldest brewery, Cascade, on the way back down. If you’re feeling energetic, you’ll find access to walking tracks and beautiful scenery below the summit at the Springs. The Springs is also equipped with picnic facilities and toilets.

Explore whiskey bars and taste craft beer Get a taste of Tasmania’s burgeoning whisky industry at the cosy Lark Distillery, where distillery tours are available, and the classy Nant Distillery. The award-winning Sullivans Cove Whisky is in Cambridge, near Hobart Airport. For a craft beer at the source, pull up a stool at the central Shambles Brewery or the Hobart Brewing Company.

Wander through Hobart’s historic waterfront Hobart truly shines along its beautiful working waterfront. From the old sandstone warehouses of Salamanca Place a stroll along the docks will take you past the floating Brooke Street Pier and a replica of Australian explorer Douglas Mawson’s huts in Antarctica.

Head to the local markets

The outdoor Salamanca Market, held each Saturday, is beloved by visitors and locals. More than 300 stalls selling arts, crafts, homewares and produce fill Salamanca Place. On Sunday morning, central Bathurst Street closes for the tasty Farm Gate Market, a showcase of Tasmanian produce and artisan producers.

Visit Hobart’s convict sites

In South Hobart, near the Cascade Brewery, is the World Heritage-listed Cascades Female Factory (no, this isn’t where females come from), where thousands of women were imprisoned. In the city centre take a tour of Tench prisoner barracks while learning about the shadier side of Hobart’s history.

NEW NORFOLK

The town is the third oldest settlement in Tasmania, established by evacuees

Strathgordon, TAS WORDS STUART

www.hemamaps.com.au

This is a pretty basic route. To head to Gordon Dam and return to Hobart is (in a nutshell) just about one road!

Head north out of Hobart on Brooker Hwy and take the off ramp to Berriedale Road and follow till its end, turning left. Again, head to the end and turn left. This is now Gordon River Road, but you need to remember to turn left again to stay on Gordon River Road after ten kilometres, which will take you to Gordon Dam and return along the same route if you wish.

Distance – 336km

Fuel – Hobart, Westerway, Strathgordon

TEAR-OUT MAP #76

relocated from Norfolk Island after the island prison was abandoned in 1807. It’s historic past is evident in the many early buildings found in the town including one of Australia’s oldest pubs and Australia’s oldest Anglican church, St Matthews. It also has one of Australia’s few traditional village squares.

New Norfolk has a rich hop-growing past and is still the centre of the surrounding hop-growing area, producing most of the hops for Australian breweries. Close to New Norfolk you’ll notice some unusual looking buildings called oast houses that are used to dry the hops in preparation for the brewing process. Wander through the antique specialist stores where you’ll find anything from Australian colonial furniture to Art Deco treasures or simply stop and enjoy the beautiful river, mountain and valley views.

long associated with nearby Mt Field National Park, Tasmania’s oldest and most loved nature retreat. The star attraction in the park is Russell Falls, a stunning cascade featured on Australia’s very first postage stamp. Closer to town, the fertile river flats produce tonnes of raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and apricots each year. Pick up a punnet or a bucket from farm gates and roadside stalls, or sample them all at the local riverside café or Ianoma Estate Raspberry Farm.

RIVER DERWENT

Also known by the palawa kani name, “timtumili minanya”. The river rises in the state’s Central Highlands at Lake St Clair, and descends more than 700 metres over a distance of more than 200 kilometres, flowing through Hobart, before emptying into Storm Bay and flowing into the Tasman Sea. The banks of the Derwent were once covered by forests and occupied by Tasmanian Aborigines. European settlers farmed the area and during the 20th century many dams were built on its tributaries for the generation of hydro-electricity. Agriculture, forestry, hydropower generation and fi sh hatcheries dominate catchment land use. The Derwent is also an important source of water for irrigation and water supply. Most of Hobart’s water supply is taken from the lower Derwent River. Nearly 40% of Tasmania’s population lives around the estuary’s margins.

WESTERWAY

Set on the banks of the picturesque Tyenna River, Westerway has been

Stop for a cup of quality coffee (or tea) and a bite to eat at the Possum Shed Restaurant, right on the banks of the Tyenna River. If you sit outside you may catch a glimpse of the resident platypus.

RUSSELL FALLS

Russell Falls is arguably Tasmania’s prettiest waterfall; it’s certainly Tasmania’s most photographed and one of the easiest to get to.

The falls consist of two main drops with a pleasing segmented, vertical appearance. This, along with its size, gives it a personality all its own.

The 20-minute return walk to the falls is on a good track and boardwalk through lovely rainforest. The walk passes through towering swamp gums and species typical of wet forests and cool temperate rainforests such as dogwood, musk and myrtle. Closer to the falls the track is framed by stunning tall tree ferns.

You can return via the same track or follow the creek back by crossing the bridge below the falls.

MAYDENA

Landmark for this route, but there’s plenty to do if you like adventure.

STRATHGORDON

Located on the edge of Tasmania’s World Heritage Wilderness Area, Strathgordon is literally the place at the end of the road. From here, civilisation ends and there is only amazing nature to explore.

It also sits on the edge of Lake Pedder, Australia’s largest freshwater lake and water catchment system. A key part of Tasmania’s hydroelectric scheme. These are spectacular surrounds – with vast expanses of water, forested islands, distant snowy peaks and a peaceful quiet. Numerous walking trails explore the lake’s edge and surrounding wilderness, as well as the Gordon Dam wall. A wander around the old town reveals the area’s engineering history – and the natural history lost to it including the original Lake Pedder, with its spectacular beach of pink quartz sand.

GORDON DAM

Gordon Dam (an impressive sight to see), also known as the Gordon River Dam, is a major gated double curvature concrete arch dam with a controlled spillway across the Gordon River. The dam was constructed in 1974 by the Hydro Electric Corporation (TAS) for the purpose of generating hydro-electric power via the conventional Gordon Power Station located below the dam wall.

Gordon Dam wall, constructed with 154 thousand cubic metres of concrete, is 198 metres long and 140 metres high, making it the tallest dam in Tasmania and the fifth-tallest in Australia. At 100% capacity the dam wall holds back 12,359,040 megalitres of water; making Lake Gordon the largest lake in Australia. The surface area of the lake is 27,800 hectares and the catchment area is 2014 square kilometres. The single controlled spillway is capable of discharging 175 cubic metres per second. Approximately 48 arch dams have been built in Australia and only nine have double curvature. Gordon Dam is almost twice the height of the next highest arch dam, Tumut Pondage – making Gordon Dam a must see! D

e Willawarrin Hotel

Main Street Willawarrin NSW

02 6567 1205, ask for Gordon or Karen

SO ANYWAY, IF YOU’RE on the mid-NSW coast and you head west up the Macleay River from Kempsey, (and why wouldn’t you?) the fi rst place you’re going to want to stop is Willawarrin. And when you do maybe force yourself to ride past the pub on your right and pull up just short of the general store on the left and check out the Anzac Memorial.

There’s a new one being slowly erected behind it but take a moment to read and count the names of the locals who fought in both world wars. Look around at the town and try to get a grip on just how a tiny place like this gave so many men to service of their country.

Back in September 1949 my mum was 8 months pregnant with her first child when my father told her he had to go up the bush for a few days. Dad was pretty devoted so she knew it was important. A week earlier the worst floods ever recorded had devastated this same Macleay Valley wiping out entire communities and washing away thousands of cattle and sheep.

Dad was working for the RSL and the mob at its Sydney office decided it’d be appropriate to return the favour by showing some support so they crammed a couple cars with nappies, blankets and cans of food and headed north to do what mates do.

Fifty eight men from this tiny place signed up for WWI of whom 15 didn’t return whilst 62 joined for WW2 with four not making it back. There’s 25 surnames listed more than once including one listed 5 times and another an even half dozen.

It’s easy to understand why the RSL

sprang into action when the homes of these families, these ex-comrades, were under attack from the elements. I let it sink in, pay my respects and then roll Super Ten down the gentle hill to the pub and head inside.

Gordon’s behind the bar and suggests I move the bike around the back and I tell him right after I fi nish my fi rst beer which he pours, opens a slate and introduces me to Mick who’s sitting at an old laminate table under the front window sucking on a XXXX stubby.

Mick Flannagan’s a squat Leprechaun of a bloke with thinning white hair complemented by a shaped beard.

He’s in a pink T shirt with ‘Premium Grade’ across the chest, a well worn pair of cargo pants and some Blundstones, Strong arms and gnarled fi ngers, he looks like a big bloke who’s been washed on the wrong cycle and has shrunk a couple of sizes in the hot drying sun but with character fully intact and undiminished.

Mick was two years old when my dad visited and he doesn’t remember the actual flood but he does remember the cost. He lived a bit downstream where his Irish father and Welsh mother had a dairy farming business and, apparently, a child breeding hobby. The flood wiped out every single one of their milking cows but they regrouped and were back at full pace within two years. The breeding was even less interrupted and eventually Mick had 11 brothers and sisters.

He liked cattle, liked how they looked and he liked how they tasted so he apprenticed as a butcher and ended up owning his own place in Kempsey.

“My butcher shop used to be next to the west Kempsey pub and it had my name on it, Mick Flannagan’s Butchery. Well I sold that to my daughter who’s a real estate agent and so now her name is on the same place.”

Butchering taught him many things including the importance of sausages.

“Every profession has little tricks to make sure they make the most dollars. In butchers it’s the sausages. See, nothing in a butcher

shop gets wasted, the skill is in the blending of all the stuff that you can’t sell straight.”

Mick got the blending of the inedible meat bits and just maybe a bit of sawdust just right and, “people would come up for their holidays and go home with 10 or 20 kilos of my sausages.”

And then he raised his stubby in its neoprene cooler and hit me with a real insight: “And in pubs, the sausages are the froth, that’s why I never drink draught, only stubbies. See in pubs the profit’s all in the froth. But there’s no froth in stubbies. You pay for 330 mills and you get 330 mills, not 300 mills of beer and an inch of bubbles to top up the glass!”

Gordon looks over from the bar and laughs. He seems to laugh a lot at Mick’s stories.

In 1963 Mick went to his first rugby league Grand Final in Sydney. The same year he also had his first beer in the Willawarrin Hotel.

“The bar used to be in a different place and on the floor there was an ashtray around the bar’s base with a high lip to it that was designed as a foot-rail. I was short, still am and now I don’t care about it but back then I used to have to get up on the foot rail to make myself look taller so they’d serve me a beer. Not sure that I fooled them but I got served.”

He pulls himself up on the current brass foot rail to illustrate his point.

As Mick’s entertaining us Gordon’s partner arrives. The kitchen’s officially open here for dinner Wednesday to Saturday and for lunch Thursday to Sunday and since this is Monday, Karen’s fronted to cook up some tea for them and for me – would a sirloin with chips and salad be okay?

About ten years ago driven by a growing dislike of Goulburn winters, Gordon and Karen bought a small farm about ten kilometres out of town. In early 2107 over a beer out front of the pub, Gordon told the publican that if she was ever looking to sell, to let him know. He’d never worked in pubs but it appealed to him.

“She looked at me and said, ‘we have to talk’. Right there and then!” After a six month delay during with the pub was stripped of more than a few things to pay a capital gains tax debt of the previous owner, the pub was theirs and the size of the task of

ROCK(S) ‘N’ ROAD(S)

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The Classic Enduro V85TT features an exclusive air-cooled transversal 90° V Twin 853cc engine cranking out an impressive 80HP and 80Nm of torque. Coupled seamlessly with a 6 speed transmission and a choice of 3 riding modes – Road, Rain & O -Road – selectable from the advanced MIA ready TFT display, the V85TT is able to satisfy even the most expert road riders, as much as the adventure seeking o -roader. $21,390* RIDE

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breathing new life into the hotel became evident.

But it’s going well. The local community, alienated by a succession of a few ordinary hosts, are coming back and news of the hospitality of the owners and the friendliness of the locals is spreading. The Sunday Pool comp has been restarted and it looks

like the long-standing euchre games are about to crank up again.

And they’re working on becoming a destination pub for travellers.

“Without doubt the best guests we have are adventure riders, both groups and solo,” enthuses Gordon. “They spend days riding the fantastic roads around here and then we feed and water them. Can honestly

say we’ve never had a single bad moment with people who rock up on bikes.”

And why would riders be anything else? There’s eight rooms upstairs, 3 with queen doubles, 2 with standard doubles and 3 with twin singles. Each room is $40 for the night. Out the back there’s a massive grassed area where you can throw a swag for 5

bucks including use of the bathrooms and toilets that are accessible 24/7. The rooms open out onto the balcony but don’t have screen doors so the skeetas can be an issue. There’s a well-equipped common room with microwave, toaster, jug and a fullsized fridge which doesn’t have a freezer. There’s the usual stack of

white bread, spreads and cereal but if you’re with a group and want something heartier, Karen’ll come in and cook a full breakfast for your mob at just ten bucks a shot.

Bikes can be parked undercover in the spacious rear beer garden/ veranda and behind a lockable gate. Oh, and there’s also room 10.

Must visit

Take a liberal dash of quiet twisting sealed back-roads and add some friendly gravel stretches (like the 70kms of dirt from Pee Dee up to Ebor or the shorter stretch down through Taylors Arm to Macksville), all through some breathtakingly beautiful country.

Then add a dash of the pristine Macleay River with a collection of easily accessible river-rock based swimming holes where local fellas still use handmade spears to hunt fish.

These ingredients alone make this area desirable.

But then toss in a hotel where the locals and the hosts are friendlier than at pretty much any place you’ve been before and you have a destination that is firmly in the ‘must visit’ category.

I ended up staying two days and I could’ve concentrated on the stories shared by any of half a dozen people in the bar but the dictator known as ‘word count’ limited me to just one and Mick was it.)

The place even has wifi if you’re addicted to connected and, apart from the lack of screens to keep out the blood suckers, the only drawback to the town is the general store, so gorgeous in the morning sun, but with some of the most off-handed unfriendly ‘service’ you can imagine. Avoid it!

The pub rated 5 helmets, 5/5 for unique character and 160 for value where 100 is benchmark.

Upstairs next to the toilets is a room with a pair of single beds. This room is generally not available for booking. Karen explains: “If we think someone’s had enough to drink and we cut them, we take their car keys and they stay for free up in Room 10. They get the keys back after breakfast in the morning when we’re sure they’re okay to drive.”

And it’s not just for your safety that they do this. As she’s telling me this, old Sheero chimes in with the story of Barry who chanced his arm one afternoon but got done for DUI on the way back from the pub with a case of beer. He knew he was busted and couldn’t outrun the cops. He was on his ride-on mower!

Unlike so many pubs, this place doesn’t sell bumper stickers advertising its existence. Instead, you can get a sticker for the town’s war memorial and every cent of your fi ve bucks goes to the building fund.

So, in a town that gave so many men in the service of their country, we now have publicans who give two meat trays a week to local charity for raffl es, who hand over the entire entry fees from the weekly pool competition to the local school, who push visitors to fork out to support the rebuilding of the village’s war memorial, who love having riders in their pub and who look after us when we’re there.

Why the hell wouldn’t you go there?

(Full disclosure: Gordon insisted on shouting me dinner one night. My comments and opinions were not affected by this gesture.) D

A TRIBUTE BEFORE RESURRECTION

THE FOREVER BIKE, by

SOMETIMES YOU have no idea what your friends are up to until the fruit of their labours lands on your desk. In this case that was Adil’s ‘definitive history of Ideal Jawa and Yezdi’, a hardcover 286 page book which is precisely what it claims to be.

For anyone not familiar with the latter name (I’m sure everyone who reads this has at least a glimmering of what ‘Jawa’ was), it was the badge that replaced it in the mid-‘70s in India under the ownership of Ideal Jawa, originally the importer. “Right from the beginning of production in 1961,” writes Adil, “Jawas etched themselves into the psyche of Indian motorcyclists making them and the Yezdi that followed a household name in independent India.”

Adil, who has written several awarded books on the motor industry, has lived much of the history he covers in the book, and has memories of his own 1956 Jawa Type 353 to inspire him.

The book does the brands full justice, but it does more. It brings the Indian motorcycle scene to life as nothing else I’ve ever seen has managed to do. It does that quite beautifully – the standard of photography and design is excellent and the quality of the printing lives up to them. Its pages come to life not only with Indian stories but also with the likes of Ivan Mauger and Billy Briggs of speedway fame. Apart from India it covers the Czech racing experience with details of such rare beasts as the Type R67-3 350cc GP bike.

One utterly endearing part of the book concerns itself with the bakedon fans of the marques and features their stories as well as before (when they first bought their bike) and after (today) photos which reveal a true family of enthusiasts. In line with Adil’s interest in competition,

Yezdi brands. But I suspect that won’t

the racing section of the book is comprehensive and well illustrated.

The book is very Indian. Here’s Adil’s description of one of motorcycle sport’s best-known characters, CK Chinnappa.

“If there is anyone who is probably the wildest, kindest, most competitive and highly skillful types I have ever met in my motorcycle racing life or even in my personal life then it has to be Uncle Chinny! At times you want to tear your hair out at his subtle humour or at times you want to trash him to pulp for playing the fool but you know that you can never do that ever for this is the most humble and down to earth human being I have met in the sport in India.”

Beat that for a way to bring someone to vivid life!

As for bringing the technology to life, check page 225 with the Railway Inspection Trolley propelled by not just the engine but practically an entire Model B. The trolley, designed by the Ideal Jawa R&D team, could carry a team of 10 workers in comfort.

Given the (well deserved) publicity that Royal Enfield is currently garnering, along with its success in markets all over the world including Australia, few people will be as familiar with these Jawa and

Yezdi brands. But I suspect that won’t be for long. Indian automobile giant Mahindra & Mahindra is currently in the process of resurrecting Jawa, and likely also Yezdi, so their relevance will inevitably grow. There is some revealing content towards the back of the book that makes me confident of the marque’s renewed success.

If you’re at all interested in the history of motorcycles (especially twostrokes) outside the usual European and American areas, this book will provide a lot of information you never knew you were missing. Order your copy direct from the author at info@ adiljal.com. It costs US$90. D

DUCATIScrambler 800

Words RALPH
Photos DUCATI

ThaiLaND, reNOWNeD for white beaches, blue water, fabulous food and an equally fabulous culture. It is a country hellbent on clashing the new with the old and makes a noisy process of having traffic crash against tranquility. For many, it is a country not well known for its fantastic roads, and as the site of the Far East Ducati factory since 2015. Good place for a bike launch, especially since Ducati is keen to change the way we think about the Scrambler range.

Prior to 2018 they almost lost count (19 was the figure mentioned) of the different models they manufactured. You could pretty much ride away on a motorcycle that was different to anyone else's if you added a few options. To simplify manufacturing and make for less potential confusion in the lineup, the range is now four. The accessory list is still enormous and the bikes are manufactured in a state-of-the-art factory in Thailand. They’re still Italian to the core and as the Ducati staff, most of whom came from postings in Europe or the States, pointed out they’re indistinguishable from the Italian plant’s output in quality or look. After belting around some brilliant roads north of the island of Phuket where it was hot, hot, hot but the ride was as cool as any ride I have been on around the planet, you can count me as convinced.

More of that later.

The New Order is now four very different Ducatis from the outside, but all sharing the 800cc L-twin which has its origins 40 years ago; of course it is Euro 4 complied. This up-to-theminute powerplant has been slipped into the Icon, the Full Throttle, Café Racer and the Desert Sled. Ducati chose the first and last model for us to sample as they offered the most diverse specifications in wheel size and suspension set-up as well as The Look. The Icon, as the name suggests, is the model based on the, er, iconic first model Scrambler. That bike was something of a step away from anything else Ducati had produced. Its purpose was to attract a newer buyer, younger and more fashion conscious,

and that worked. After all, The Bear bought one… Sorry. Its success has confirmed the company’s policy of marketing the range as Scrambler first and Ducati second. It’s like saying there is the Rolling Stones, then Rock ‘n’ Roll and then music. Scrambler, Ducati then motorcycling.

The Icon is the base platform, like the Rolling Stones. The Café Racer is what it says on the bottle. In looks, it is Mick Jagger. hyper, cool and races all over the place unlike any of the other Stones. The Full Throttle is Keith Richards. Known to be wicked and full of attitude and a bit of a hit with anyone into extreme riffs and breaking the mold. That leaves the Desert Sled and for me it’s Charlie Watts bringing the spirit of jazz and Delta Blues with added electricity making what was simple much, much raunchier.

All the updated Scramblers have new headlights with LED lighting. Smoother, softer and more compliant suspension settings are immediately obvious even on the super-smooth Thai roads. There’s a new, more comfortable seat for the Icon and cosmetic changes freshen up the entire range. With new bolder tank panels and a sharper front brake, blacked out engines and hydraulically activated clutches the new bikes add even more class to class. In the gizmo department there’s Cornering ABS and as a response to customer requests, the Italians added a fuel gauge and a gear indicator into the new dash. I still can’t fathom why the digital tacho sweeps around the bottom of the dash from 3 to 7 o’clock rather than a more visible 10 to 3 o’clock.

Out on the road we were spilt into two groups with intersecting photography sessions. The full day of riding was in a figure eight shape crossing from the west coast over the forested spine of the hilly peninsula to the beautiful east coast for the lunch stop.

I rode the Icon first, and it was a great score. This is still one of the easiest mid-capacity bikes to ride and even better with the recent upgrades giving the simple 803cc L-twin a sweeter delivery of power and lighter controls. There is still a gentle throbbing presence of the belt-driven desmo and

a wide flat power curve. I thought the fueling was much smoother and the overall riding experience a generation better. What was once character and snappy is now refined and more usable. Riding in traffic and especially having fun on twisty roads lifts the enjoyment level.

I keep thinking Ducati has added a touch of Japanese refinement and that is for the better. After the last few weeks I’ve spent riding big bore bikes, the 800 is a step back to a more relaxed mood and perfect for what will be its most likely target audience. Heaps of marketing cues by Ducati here with ‘joy’ ‘fun’ and indications that the Scramblers are evolution rather than revolution -‘Joyvolution’. Well, okay. This is a motorcycle made to encompass all that’s simple and, yes, joyful rather than chasing horizons at warp speed. The 1200 range of Monster, Multistrada and Panigale fills that space on the menu if your diet requires it. The Icon is immensely entertaining from walking pace to our escorted cruising speed of 140km/h. I wrung its little heart out to just over 160 but then remembered the cost of a medevac from Thailand to Sydney. Tipping the scales at 173kg it provides the sensation of effortless and accurate steering and the stability of the tight combination of wheel sizes and geometry. Changing the seat and softening the suspension really lifts the game for the Icon giving the stylish Ducati extra potential for traveling every day and everywhere. It is far from a Multistrada in comfort and mileeating capability; after all, it has the ergonomics of a mid-sized bike and all of 54 kilowatts of power. But the Icon is a real bargain at just under $14,000 ride away, with the brand cachet, great looks and the ability to suit a rider who wants a commuter, a fun bike or even a travelling companion.

I have only ridden the Desert Sled around the block a few times and was really keen to get some decent saddle time. After the morning on the Icon, part two of the day had some of the same awesome bitumen roads as well as quiet country gravel roads and a couple of tracks. On the road the Desert

Sled (not Dessert Shed as my dyslexic brain pronounces it) is straight up taller and a little less comfortable in the seat although the ergonomics are better for me. It also loses the flickability of its road cousin and steering precision is less. The 200mm travel (up 50mm front and rear from the Icon) adds a heap of comfort and compliance on the road and the extra diameter on the front provides security on the gravel. Ground clearance is better with a generous 238mm and the higher lift twin mufflers ensure less grounding of the underside.

You will have to find an extra five thousand dollars for the change in identity without a real gain in performance. I like the look of the total package with the twin mufflers, red frame and retro-trailbike stance. For many this motorcycle does offer a two-in-one package with some off-road capabilities and normal commuting duties taken care of. Source a rack and throwover panniers and make the Great Divide your playground Motorcycles for me are how they make you feel first and what they look like a distant third to performance slotting into second. When considering an 800 Scrambler, potential buyers would, I am sure, think of looks, feel and performance in that order. The Icon will more than likely outsell the Sled ten to one and I can see punters scrambling to fall in love with the Café Racer ($18,990) or Full Throttle ($17,540). With four distinct models available and the opportunity to go berserk on customising, the Scrambler range has the bases covered.

Nearly 20,000 Scramblers have rolled out of the Thai factory in the last four years and it’s great to see that Ducati can produce quality, likeable products in those numbers. The factory can potentially double that in a shorter period of time. If fun, feel good and looks rate highly on your radar then definitely go for a spin on a Scrambler. If you are not chasing mega performance, the Scrambler range could easily strike the right chord. I certainly have plenty for this Little Red Rooster. D

SPECS

DUCATI SCRAMBLER 800 ICON / DESERT SLED

PRICE: $13,990 / $19,290 ride away

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 12,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Air-cooled L-Twin-cylinder, 4-stroke, 270-degree SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 88 x 66mm

DISPLACEMENT: 803cc

COMPRESSION: 11.0:1

POWER: 54kW @ 8250rpm

TORQUE: 67Nm @ 5750rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Icon-Front, 41mm USD fork, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 150mm. Rear, Kayaba shock, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 150mm. Desert Sled-Front, 46mm USD fork, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 200m. Rear, Kayaba shock, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 200mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 798/860mm, weight 173/193kg (dry), fuel capacity 13.5 litres, wheelbase 1445/1505mm

TYRES: Icon-Front, 110/80 R18. Rear, 180/55 R/17 Desert Sled-Front 120/70 R19. 170/60 R17

FRAME: Tubular steel trellis frame

BRAKES: Front, 330mm disc with radial mount four-piston Cornering ABS caliper. Rear, 245m disc, twin-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 270km

COLOURS: Icon -Yellow and Orange / Desert Sled -White

VERDICT: TOY BOX OF FUN

CALL OUT THE ARMY

The Bear army has two Manoeuvres every year, spaced roughly evenly over the 12 months. This year, the second one will be a bit special; we’re going to Streaky Bay in South Australia, partly to give our West Australian troopers a chance to attend. That’s a fair hike for just about everyone, even the members from SA who live south of Adelaide. Still, lots of troopers asked for it!

The first event this year took place in Lockhart, in keeping with the idea that we meet in towns where the money we spend might make a bit of a difference. I’ve liked Lockhart for a long time, ever since the days of the BIKE Australia rallies when the Lockhart Tourers – a motley crew which included three highway patrol officers from Albury and the immortal ‘Moot’ Chick – were among the most regular attendees. The event went well, despite a bunch of Grey Nomads taking over the dining room and refusing to be moved. We ate in the back bar instead, and if anything that was even more comfortable. Mandy and Dave, who

run the Commercial Hotel, have done a wonderful job rejuvenating (almost resurrecting) the pub, and I’ll happily recommend it to anyone. There’s lockup parking, the beds are new, hot water is abundant and congeniality is the word in the bar.

There is little to write about the event itself, mainly because nothing happens. There are no prizes or awards, no speeches and in fact no formalities whatsoever. The afternoon and evening of the Saturday are filled with troopers catching up and telling lies, and then we all go to bed before more convivial talk at breakfast. Then we ride home.

So what’s the Bear Army all about? Well, as Fats Waller said to someone who asked him to explain jazz, “if you’ve got to ask, you’ll never understand”. I’m going to close our recruitment books soon, so if you’ve ever though about joining up, make it soon. Drop a line to stuart@ ausmotorcyclist.com.au and he’ll send you the necessary paperwork, which is one sheet with, like, three questions, one of which is your t-shirt size.

And keep in mind that you are most welcome to bring a ‘camp follower’ such as your significant other to Manoeuvres. Ask Kate or Betty; it’s not just for blokes.

I wonder how many Troopers we’ll get in Streaky Bay… D

1. It’s a long way to Lockhart, especially if you go the long way around! The little Benelli did stalwart duty.

2. A bit of a chat before (or was it after) dinner.

3. Breakfast in the beer garden. Dave the publican cooked for us.

4.The Commercial Hotel in the main drag of Lockhart. A terrific pub since Mandy and Dave sorted it.

5. It looks as if Betty needs another glass of bubbly.

6. Lockhart street scene at night, with Peter and Kate’s BMW in the foreground.

Lockhart invasion WORDS THE BEAR PHOTOS PETER COLWELL, THE BEAR

WINTERGEAR

WWINTER GEAR

To warm a winter day COMPILED BY

INTER IS UPON US and it’s now time to prepare to keep warm for cold weather riding. As we usually do with these features we put the call out to the industry and the following are the ones who want you to know about their range. Think about that when spending your hard earned.

HELD BIKER FASHION

www.heldaustralia.com.au

Hakuna II - $650

Made from a DuPont Cordura 500 D outer with a Coolmax breathable mesh inner lining, featuring a removable waterproof, windproof and breathable

liner, 4 external pockets, 3 inner pockets, map/document pocket, internal cellphone pocket, 1 back pocket, zip-off panels on chest, zips also adjust ventilation, air-vent zippers in front, back and arms, dual arm adjustment, waist belt, soft collar, Held Clip-in Technology Protection, CE-approved SAS-TEC 3D shoulder and elbow protectors, optional CE back

protector, Velcro for optional chest protector, reflective sections and pant connecting zip. Available in sizes S-3XL.

Carese II - $950

Outer shell made from DuPont Cordura 500D (100% polyamide) with 3D air

STUART

mesh panels (100% polyester) in back to promote air circulation and a Coolmax breathable mesh inner lining (100% polyester). The Carese II features a removable Goretex 3-layer technology inner jacket (can be used attached inside or over the jacket), waterproof external pockets, internal cellphone pocket, front air-vent zipper, waist belt, soft collar, fulllength back protector can be integrated into jacket lining, air-vent zippers in front, back and arms, map/document pocket, dual arm adjustment, 3 inner pockets, 1 back pocket, magnetic closure pockets double as air vents, exclusive CE-approved Held cloverleaf SAS-TEC shoulder and elbow protectors, optional CE back protector, connecting zip and 3M Scotchlite reflectors. Available in colours black, grey-orange, grey-blue, grey-red and sizes S-5XL (mens) and DXS-D4XL (ladies).

Molto - $650

Made from a Heros-Tec 500D fabric outer and featuring Goretex Z-Liner Technology, mesh inner lining, special Ripstop material reinforcement on crash zones, exclusive CE-approved Held cloverleaf SAS-TEC shoulder and elbow, optional CE back protector, Velcro for optional chest protector, stretch panels at elbows, soft collar, height adjustable waist adjustment, Held Clip-in Technology, internal cellphone pocket, dual arm adjustment, map/ document pocket, air-vent zippers, 2 waterproof external pockets, 1 inner pocket and connecting zip. Available in colours, black-white, black-fluorescent yellow, grey-black and mens sizes S-5XL, slim: black-white L-S-L-XXL and ladies sizes DS-D4XL, slim: black-white: L-DS-L-DXL.

Clip in Thermo Top - $130

Water and wind-repellent, breathable, elastic Softshell fabric with a 3M

Thinsulate lining featuring an integrated hood - wear it under your helmet. 3 external pockets, 1 inner pocket, soft collar, male and female sizes, Held Clipin Technology and a connecting zip. Available in black and sizes S-5XL.

DAYTONA BOOTS

cs@miggroup.bike or Ph:02 8004 6083

Road Star GTX - $660

The most widely-used Daytona motorcycle boot with numerous test awards, featuring perfect fit, available for narrow and wide feet, hydrophobic special full cowhide, watertight and breathable with Goretex climatic membrane, Velcro fastener for different calf sizes, two zip fasteners to get in quickly and easily, reinforced gear change pad from abrasion resistant PU foam, PU foam sole, anatomic formed climatic insole, plastic ankle protection both sides,

padded inside with open-cell special foam, wide shinbone protection, padded with latex foam inside, plastic reinforced inner sole with a hot-dip galvanised steel inlay, that allows you to gently roll your feet, 3M-Scotchlite heel reflectors and non-slip rubber sport sole. Available in black and sizes 36-51 Euro.

KAWASAKI

www.kawasaki.com.au or your local dealer

RPM Hoodie - $69.99

Black cotton fashion hoodie which has great softness and comfort for everyday wear, utilising 340gsm cotton polyester blend, Kangaroo pocket, attractive Plastisol print Kawasaki logo across the back. Great for work or play on or off the track, available in sizes XS-5XL.

Slouch Beanie - $20

This cotton Kawasaki Racing Team beanie is designed to fit most heads. Embroidered Kawasaki Racing Team logo on one side and Kawasaki on the other. Keep your head and ears warm this winter, Lime green and black stripes with white pinstripes.

www.macnaridinggear.com.au

Sektor jacket - $299.95

European quality and styling in a comfortable ‘All Seasons” jacket. Fitted with a fixed 100% waterproof and breathable liner and zip out thermal liner plus a unique full flow ventilation system. Equipped with Italian Safetech CE elbow and shoulder armour and an EVA back protector pad to ensure your riding protection. 3 colour options - Black/ Grey, Olive/Ivory and Ivory/Grey/ Blue in Men’s sizes S to 3XL.

Imbuz jacket - $429.95

Hoodie style jacket that is totally waterproof and windproof and fitted with all the latest safety features. Italian Safetech CE elbow and shoulder armour and an EVA back protector pad to ensure your riding protection. Wear over the top of your thermal base layer for ultimate winter leisure riding comfort. 2 colour optionsBlue/Yellow, Green/Black in Men’s sizes S to 3XL.

Exile gloves - $149.95

The Dutch sure know about winter! Premium goat leather for optimum fit and feel. Lined with Raintex to keep you dry and Thermolite for warmth. Macna use a unique construction technique

ensuring maximum comfort, feel and flexibility and protection. Black Men’s sizes S to 3XL. MERLIN

www.merlinbikegear.com.au

Sandon jacket - $399.95

English manufacturer Merlin has created a premium Heritage styled range of Waxed Cotton jackets. Made from genuine Scottish materials combined with a Reissa waterproof liner to ensure total weather protection. CE Armour and removable thermal liner complete this Winter package. Zip open vents extends the usability of this jacket. Old School Rules!

2 colour options - Brown or Black in Men’s sizes S to 3XL.

Ranton gloves - $119.95

Heritage gauntlet styled gloves constructed from a mix of Scottish Waxed Cotton and premium cow hide leather. Fitted with a Hipora waterproof lining and Outlast Thermal regulating

technology. Warm, dry, comfortable and safe! Retro rocks!

2 colour options - Brown or Black in Men’s sizes S to 3XL.

ANDY STRAPZ

Showroom - 1/95 Brunel Rd, Seaford, Vic. Ph: 03 9786 3445, e: info@andystrapz.com w: www.andystrapz.com

Helmet Liner - $32 plus postage

Helmet Liners provide a single layer “skull cap” style head cover that is warm in winter, cool in summer, keeps the inside of your helmet cleaner, keeps ears under control, helps keep earplugs (especially music wired ones) under control as you don the brain bucket. Made from ultra fine (non-itch) Merino wool. Features an anatomical, contoured, three-panel design with flatlock stitching. One size fits all.

Icebreaker’s Helix jacket - $295

Andy Strapz reckons they’ve found the perfect mid-layer jacket, the one you put

SPECIAL FEATURE Winter Gear

on just before your bike jacket. Helix by Icebreaker from across the “dutch” to our East. Constructed of layers of windproof merino, clever stretch panels and a weatherproof outer shell this could be the best purchase you ever make. Available in sizes S-2XL.

Thermalz - Topz $85 each, Pantz $93 each, plus post (usually $8 per top)

Everyone knows about Andy’s ‘Thermalz’, they’re tried and tested and amazingly perfect at keeping you warm. Made from superfine, itch free, Merino in Melbourne. The fabric is very stable, extremely resistant to pong, pilling and is machine washable.

Thermalz offer a double fronted shirt with extra length in the sleeves and body, a shirt tail back and care instructions in the side seams (not in the back of your neck to piss you off all day). Pantz have a high cut back, broad waistband, long ankle cuffs and a generous fly. The real stand out with Andy’s design is the added layer of boxer shorts sewn in. Unisex tops and pants for him or her.

DAINESE

www.cassons.com.au

D-Core Socks - $36.95 (mid), $42.95 (high)

Breathable socks designed to ensure ergonomics and correct blood circulation, featuring compression lines to sustain muscles: lower vibrations and

optimization of blood circulation, ankle support for a better comfort and riding precision, footbed compression for increased blood circulation, anatomical asymmetrical cut, differentiated for right and left foot, grip on the sole of the foot to prevent slipping inside the shoe, ventilated mesh panel on the back of the foot: optimization of thermoregulation and breathability. Socks are unisex, available in knee high or mid length and three sizes: Small (38-40), Medium (4143), Large (44-47).

D-Core Thermo Tee and Pants$109.95 (tee), $99.95 (pants)

The perfect thermal underwear to face even the coldest temperatures, with a range of use from -20°C to 10°C, featuring environmentally-friendly fibre and 100% recyclable, ergonomic fit, seamless build for superior comfort, armour pad for added comfort

free from moisture, Bacteriostatic, hypoallergenic and anti-odour, press structure to optimize muscle compression and are tear resistant and anti-pilling. Available in both mens and ladies.

Sottocasco Total WS balaclava - $59.95

Ergonomic size with a differentiation of material on basis of body mapping, inserts in Coolmax fabric, warm and breathable, Windstopper fabric and available in two sizes –medium or large.

PINLOCK

www.cassons.com.au

Inserts – from $39.95

on contact areas, active moisture management, 3D frame armour for added thermal insulation, Dryarn fabric with high weight/length ratio, keeps you

Pinlock is the best anti-fog solution for helmet visors according to all who have used them across the world. That is why helmet manufacturers such as Shoei, Arai, HJC, Schuberth, Caberg and many more are supplying their helmets standard with the Pinlock Original. This anti fog insert lens is now available for more than 170 different

SPECIAL FEATURE Winter Gear

helmet types and a must have for cold weather riding so you have clear vision ahead.

RJAYS

www.rjays.com.au

Storm neck tube - $19.95

One size fi ts all micro-fl eece lined for extra warmth and comfort around the neck while you’re riding.

Pilot jacket - $399.95

Genuine Cordura construction for extremely high abrasion resistance featuring CE approved body armour in shoulders, elbows and back , water repellent outer shell with a 100% breathable and waterproof membrane, removable thermal zip out liner, liner has colour coded attachment loops for easy fi tting, waterproof zippered air vents – 2 vents in front, 2 at the rear and 2 on the forearms, 6 pockets, 2 in the front, 1 in the tail, 3 inside jacket including a phone pocket, refl ective panels for added safety, rubber studs, chest, waist, wrist and 2 sleeve

adjusters, zip and button cuffs and zip to pant feature. Two colours available and sizes XS-3XL.

Booster gloves - $79.95

An all new winter glove with sports styling and protection you’ve come to expect from Rjays. Features include A-grade drum dyed leather and polyester construction, Thinsulate liner for added comfort and warmth, 100% waterproof and 100% breathable Hipora insert, Kevlar and Superfabric abrasion pads on the palm, silver reflective striping across back of hand and index fingers, and double Velcro wrist and cuff closure. Available in Men’s sizes: XS-3XL and Ladies Sizes: XS-XL.

Cyclone Neck/Chest

Warmer - $29.95

Windproof micro-fl eece material to protect you from the coldest conditions, an extra-long neck/ chest warmer to keep the cold out and the warmth in. 1 size fi ts most.

RUKKA www.innotesco.com.au

Yorkton jacket - $715

The new Rukka Yorkton leather jacket combines an authentic vintage look with the latest safety and comfort features.

Aramos suit (waterproof leather) - Jacket $1285, Trousers $1140

Waterproof 3-layer laminate and high breathability have always been core staples of Rukka motorcycling apparel. But the new Rukka Aramos Corium+Platinum leather suit raises

DOLOMITI

the bar with these strengths to a completely new level.

Realer suit - Jacket $1785, Trousers $1215

The Realer functional suit is distinguished by state of the art features, ranging from the Goretex

Pro three-layer stretch laminate and the new Rukka D3O chest protector to the YKK AquaSeal front zipper.

The highlight though is its highquality down inner suit.

Ladies Spektria suit - Jacket $1285, Trousers $1000

With Spektria, Rukka launches its top product of the Armaprotection

line for women. The elasticised Goretex PRO 3-layer laminate with Armacor reinforcements is 100% wind and water proof while staying breathable.

Mars 2.0 winter gloves - $213

The Mars 2.0 leather gloves are 100% wind and waterproof as well as breathable thanks to a Goretex

membrane. They have a visor wiper on the left index fi nger, knuckle padding, and leather reinforcements on the edge of the hand. Long cuffs keep out water and wind. The inner polar fl eece lining will keep the hands warm even on colder days.

DRIRIDER

www.dririder.com.au

Nordic 4 jacket - $349.95

A textile/leather combo construction featuring a Texland Reissa waterproof and breathable membrane, detachable 100g thermal liner, CE armour in shoulders and elbows, safety stitching, ventilation system, action stretch in the shoulders and elbows, comfort stretch on the inner arms, dual rain gusset on main zip, mesh comfort lining, soft collar with neoprene, arm, hip and waist adjusters, 3 external and 2 inner pockets and waist connecting zip. Available in four colour combos and sizes S-8XL.

Vortex Pro Tour jacket - $499.95

Claimed to be the ultimate touring jacket for all seasons, the Vortex Pro Tour is made from a heavy duty 900D and 1200D outer with a Tefl on protective outer coating. It features a removable wind collar, CE armour in shoulders and elbows, hi-density

back pad, removable waterproof and breathable liner, removable 140g Dupont Comformax thermal liner, ventilation system, poly mesh comfort liner, soft collar, buckle, waist and arm adjusters, accordion stretch inserts, multiple storage pockets and hand warmer pockets, expander zips in waist and connecting zip to pants. Available in Black/Red and sizes S-8XL.

Nordic 3 gloves - $69.95

Premium cowhide and nylon construction featuring a Hipora

waterproof and breathable membrane, Schoeller Kerprotec knuckle protection and hand insert, stretch panels, Smart Tip forefinger and thumb, visor wiper and double Velcro closure. Available in Black/ Red and mens sizes S-3XL and ladies S-L.

Summit Pro - $149.95

Outer made from leather, soft shell and Kodura 500D, featuring Visco Lab impact knuckle protection,

nylon palm protector, leather reinforced palm and side of hand, McTex waterproof and breathable liner, McFit tri fleece liner, McFill 6oz back and 2oz palm, accordion stretch panels, Smart Tip on forefinger and thumb and an

elasticised wrist and double closure. Available in Black/Red, Black/ Yellow and sizes S-2XL. D

The Bridle Track

a challenging adventure

The Bridle Track: not to be confused with a bridal track, whatever that might be, but it doesn’t sound auspicious. No, a bridle track – and there are or were many in the early days of European settlement in the back blocks of the Australian landscape –refers to the barely passable but essential life-lines to and from fledging villages and remote gold rush sites. Initially, they were pretty much confined to transport by horse (and bridle) but many were amazingly constructed (sometimes, in effect, hewn) through very rough and forbidding country.

There are only a few that retain the simple but history-laden name of Bridle Track. This story is about one of them which, after so many years, still beckons the adventure rider to re-live the challenges of the early gold hunters who swarmed into Hill End and depended on the Bridle Track to get supplies from the regional centre of Bathurst, itself the site of Australia’s first gold discovery and, of course, later the Mount Panorama racing circuit – confined these days to cars but previously home to the Australian Motorcycle Grand Prix from the 1940s until the late 1980s.

Hill End is almost lost in a series of folding hills overlooking deep valleys that spill onto the Great Western Plains of central NSW. It was the unavoidable challenge of these valleys that spawned the Bridle Track.

Today Hill End can be accessed by far more benign routes from Mudgee to its north and Bathurst to its south, although

Words/photos roBerT crick

the latter option makes for a much longer journey compared to the Bridle Track, which until recent closures was still used by local property owners for quicker access to Bathurst.

A Bit ABout hill End

Long before the gold rush in NSW, the indigenous Wiradjuri people roamed the region around Hill End. A good supply of reliable water was available in this region and it was ideal as a campsite for these nomadic people.

The area later became the domain of pastoralists and squatters. This gave way to gold seekers when the town of Hill End was established in July 1851. At that time, the settlement would have been a tent town. At the height of the gold rush era there were about 8,000 people living in Hill End. The Royal Hotel is the sole remaining hotel from the 52 that used to operate in the town. There are still some other impressive gold rush era buildings, but most have evaporated leaving only markers and old photos displayed where they once stood.

But you can still experience something of the halcyon gold mining days by touring the Bald Hill tourist mine (Bald Hill was the original name for Hill End), a short ride from the centre of town.

A Bit ABout thE

BridlE trAck

The Bridle Track links Hill End with the locality of Duramana about 15km north of Bathurst. The track itself is 53km between Duramana and Hill End. Of

Of this, about 22km at the Duramana end is a narrow bitumen road ambling through a lot of open farm country with glimpses at times of the Macquarie River. The far more exciting part is the slightly more than 30km of just about every other surface into or out of Hill End, including a few kilometres of cliffhanging track overlooking the Macquarie River a long way down!

The track has a history of closures due to flooding, washaways, rockfalls and road collapses. In 2010, a large rockfall at Monaghan’s Bluff closed the road again; and it remains “officially” closed although it wasn’t long before bikes were making their way through and now even some more daring 4x4s are doing so (after mysterious goblins seemed to have whittled away the rock blockages). More recently another section was closed due to Howard’s Bridge across Winburndale Rivulet being washed away but it’s since been replaced. The missing bridge didn’t stop some bike enthusiasts once the water levels dropped a little.

I’ve seen the track described as an easy 4x4 road (before the rockfall closure presumably); and my companions didn’t seem too challenged by it and relished the thought of doing it again, although their stories did evolve with the telling. I certainly found it somewhat confronting in several sections and failed to share their enthusiasm for doing it again too soon. I’m confident I’ll relent in due course.

WHICH WAY?

When all is said and done, it probably doesn’t matter which way

you undertake the ride.

ON THE BRIDLE TRACK

We opted to start in Hill End, having got there via sealed roads from Bathurst through Duramana and linking up with the road from Sofala to Hill End (after spending most of the day on gravel roads to get to Bathurst). That option provided time to absorb something of Hill End and enjoy a night at the Royal Hotel for a fresh start to tackle the track next morning. That worked well. Making Hill End your track-ride destination would no doubt provide a sense of achievement by arriving there. A relevant factor might be that the road out of Hill End starts with a 9km steep and rough descent. That, of course, would be a steep and rough ascent to end up in Hill End – a preferred option for some. Then there was the seeming advantage that we would be on the inside of the narrow cliff-track around Monaghan’s Bluff; but, as happens, the more inviting line was all too often on the outside!

The introductory (or should that be warning) sign at the start of the track said it all. Certainly left no room for saying we weren’t warned: no guard rail, steep edges, steep inclines etc…and we would not have done it in the wet.

The first 9km to the Turon River crossing was both steep and winding; and rough, mostly with well embedded protruding rocks but including washedaway sections and furrows on sharp turns. More experienced colleagues soon overtook me with the later offered explanation that their big bikes needed momentum. For my part I felt I needed

first gear and good braking for what seemed to be an unrelenting 9km of stress on bike and more so on rider. The time estimated by the GPS software of 7 mins for this section was a tad out of line with my pace (and, be assured, with everyone else’s in the group). A lookout vantage point a couple of kilometres into the journey had clearly spelt out the rapidity of descent through heavily timbered and gullied terrain that awaited us.

The Turon River crossing was by way of a dry concrete ford. However, there are lots of clips that show water over the ford so don’t be too complacent if there has been recent rain before you tackle the track.

While we didn’t take advantage of several subsidiary opportunities for more adventurous riding, including unassisted Turon River crossing tracks, these are waiting for those with the time, skills and inclination to revel in them as the Bridle Track stays close to the Turon River for some distance.

There are also camping spots along the way that can provide an itinerant base for further exploration.

It’s not too long before the Turon River flows into the larger Macquarie River which the Bridle Track then accompanies for the next 15km, keeping it still in sight after that for a while before parting company to let it find its own tortuous way to Bathurst. At the early stages of this section, there are more opportunities for camping and testing the Macquarie River without, hopefully, being overly tempted by it.

Over the 10km or so between the

Turon River crossing and the prelude to Monaghan’s Bluff, where the track sharply increases the vertical distance between itself and the river, it manages to vary the riding experience in rapid bursts of sand, deep hard-baked 4x4 mud tracks, termite-type obstructions to mount and cross, as well as continuing rocks and ruts; with the occasional relative relief of vestiges of paper-thin bitumen patches from a long gone era.

MONAGHAN’S BLUFF

Then, with the turn of another blind corner on a narrow road, a vista suddenly opens of a road cut into the cliff, a drop-off to the Macquarie River below and the marvel of a stone retaining wall supporting the road, reminiscent of the convict-built Great North Road near Wiseman’s Ferry in the Hawkesbury region, although looking more like randomly collected rocks than the neatly carved sandstone of the Great North Road (see AM #66, August 2018 p52).

This is the prelude to Monaghan’s Bluff. Unlike Dalmorton Bluff on the old Glenn Innes Grafton Road (see AMM #62, April 2018 p96), where the road builders blasted a tunnel through the impeding bluff, the Bridle Track builders continued to cut away at the bluff to create an increasingly narrow passage clinging precariously to the cliff face, with the river below descending into the ever-deepening valley.

It’s not surprising that Monaghan’s Bluff might succumb to the occasional rock slide. There would seem to have been a few over the years but recent attention has been focussed on the 2010 slide that incontrovertibly cut the road. Well, that was until some enterprising adventure motorcyclists with, seemingly, the assistance of self-designated makeshift engineers began clearing a way through.

At first it was small bikes only, with the need for panniers to be removed; followed over the years by bigger bikes with panniers off then left on. Finally, after some nine years, the obstacle to 4x4 access disappeared. However, the road at the crest of the bluff is even narrower than the rest since its outer edge has crumbled with erosion and the effects of the rockfall. While there’s still room enough for bikes, I’d be

Available through:

be doing some careful measurements before driving it.

The Bridle Track remains officially closed at Monaghan’s Bluff; and there would not seem to be any plans to change that. The closure issue continues to be a political hot potato, with many indications that one day soon the road will open only for them seemingly to be contradicted by references to lack of safety for road workers and their equipment. There are some work-around alternatives, but they are not all that well-received by local property owners either because of continued longer routing to Bathurst or intrusions onto private property by destructive trespassers. Let’s just hope the track stays accessible to at least the responsible adventure motorcyclist.

Back Down to RiveR

LeveL Monaghan’s Bluff, at its crest, seems to be the “high” point of the track (in various senses). From there for the next 10km or so, the track descends at a civil rate to run alongside the Macquarie River until the intersection with Box Ridge Road that runs north initially to meet up with the bitumen road back to Bathurst.

The Bridle Track, from this intersection, begins to turn south to meet up with the same bitumen road to Bathurst only further south than where Box Ridge Road meets it.

I mention this aspect for two reasons: first, from this intersection, the Bridle Track, as mentioned earlier on, has a bitumen surface and morphs into a pleasant scenic if still narrow road through more open countryside; secondly, we opted to take the mostly gravel Box Ridge Road that runs partly through more hilly and wooded countryside. While staying on the Bridle Track would have boosted the boast that we’d done the whole Bridle Track, turning onto the more adventurous Box Ridge Road seemed the appropriate digestif to the top half of the Bridle Track, whether you read that as altitude, compass perspective or riding adventure.

I’m already having thoughts of doing that 9km ascent into Hill End! D

KAWASAKI Z900RS BAGSTER ‘READY’ SEAT - $899.95

You might know the brand for its tank covers and clip-on bags, but did you know Bagster is now doing custom seats as well? ‘Ready’ seats are complete replacement seats ready to click in and come with all necessary fi ttings.

The ‘Ready’ seat is claimed to be a much higher quality and comfort than the stock seat, and offers a better seating position and ride quality. The material is a non-slip and is finished off with beautiful stitching, piping and embroidered bike model logo. They’re available for the stunning Kawasaki Z900RS so I was keen to grab the ‘Ready’ seat and try it out on our bike. Fit and the way it clicks in are exactly like standard and first sitting on the RS it was a little bit of culture shock as the ‘Ready’ seat

changes the riding position of the RS completely.

The Bagster seat places you closer to the tank, sits you bolt upright and has excellent lower back support, and places your feet slightly rearward versus basically flat or in line with the standard seat. It’s kind of like your mother telling you to stand up straight as a child and then realising she’s doing it for good reason. Same goes for the Ready seat. At first you get a bit of a shock that you are being told to sit up straight then as you ride along you realise the reason for it – comfort!

The seat height has remained the same and the stylish ‘Z900RS’ logo is understated yet totally custom looking to any onlookers. The different look of the Ready seat versus the standard ‘ribbed’ style seat that comes with the RS has me in two minds. I like the retro look

of the ribbed seat but also the comfort that comes with the Ready seat. Bagster Ready seats are available for many makes and models and they have customising options available, such as silver piping and logo (to name a couple). See your local bike shop, www.ctaaustralia.com.au or www.bagster.com.au . SW

Ducati Scrambler 1100

CooCase astra 48L

Luxury Kit - $599

When the great folk at Kenma called me and said they were sending over a Coocase topbox for our Ducati Scrambler 1100 I must admit I was a little surprised that they’d want to put a topbox on a ‘scrambler’. It wasn’t until I fitted the entire kit that it sank in – it actually blends in kinda well and of course gives you luggage space that the Scrambler 1100 would otherwise not offer.

The Coocase that arrived is the Astra 48 litre Luxury kit. This includes Ventura brackets and universal mounting plates, 48 litre Silver Coocase, alarm and neoprene inner liner. The brackets/ mounting plates can be positioned in a number of ways – fitting the topbox forward and just over the rear of the pillion seat, all the way back so a pillion can still sit on the bike, or midway if you prefer easy access when taking the seat off. I mounted the brackets so the topbox was all the way forward (just sitting over the rear of the pillion seat). I felt the 48 litre case, being one of the largest available, wouldn’t look so big sitting more forward, and I have no need to carry a pillion on this bike. Hooking up the alarm system is very simple and anyone with basic skills can wire it up. You also get instructions to assist you. All up the entire Coocase Luxury kit took around an hour to fit and now I don’t have to carry a backpack, I just pop my goodies in the Coocase and away I go!

See your local bike shop or www. kenma.com.au for the entire Coocase range. Various sizes, kits and colours are on offer. SW D

1976

Oh no! WORDS/PHOTOS stuart

KawasaKi Z900 a4

There has been some good but a lot of bad for the Z900 A4 in the last month. The good is that the entire bike is stripped down and I’ve had a flood of new parts arrive. The bad is that the frame is in a worse state than I thought and is going to require a lot of work and time to get back

to being 101%. I have found some indicator brackets which will be an easy weld on and the pillion peg brackets just need measuring up and welding on too. The big problem is the front, it is a little bent. At least with all old steel tube frames like this they can be fixed. I was going to get the frame checked anyway but

a little manipulation will be required to get it bang on. Maybe I’m over worrying the situation as I expected it would be fine, the awesomeness of frame straightening wizard, Laurie Alderton will make me happy in no time flat I’m sure.

In the mean time I’ve polished the wheel hubs and painted the

middle parts silver as per factory. My new DID rims and spokes arrived so I sent them to Chivo’s in Sydney to lace and true them up.

My Bridgestone BT45 tyres arrived from the wonderful folk at McLeod Accessories so once I picked up the new wheels I fitted the tyres and boy, do they look amazing.

I pulled the forks apart to see if they were all okay and luckily the stanchion tubes were in good nick so I stuck them in the lathe for a polish with some 1200 grit sandpaper. The legs needed a good rub down with wet n dry sandpaper before polishing and they came up beautifully. After a good clean of the internals I assembled them with the new fork seals, dust caps, oil, Ikon Suspension fork springs and new fork caps and have to say they are simply stunning to look at and feel very smooth with the Ikon Suspension springs and new oil. A funny point to note is the amount of oil (or lack of) old forks take. Just 150ml of 10w fork oil. It’s hard to imagine that so little oil would be sufficient, especially when you take into account some new forks in current bikes take around 700ml of fork oil!

I haven’t had the time to pull the engine apart as yet but I have been on the hunt for an oil pressure switch housing. My bike had a Lockhart oil cooler fitted and to take it back to original I was in need of the housing. Harrie from Jaygui exhausts in the Netherlands from whom I bought the race exhaust for the FZR1000 race bike said, “How many do you want!” Harrie send one over, I gave it a wash and it has come up a treat. That’s another worry off my mind.

My plan for the next issue is to have the frame sorted and off for powder coating with the swingarm, triple clamps and engine brackets, and to at least have the engine pulled apart. That sounds good as I type, but let’s see how reality goes. I’m sure there’s more hurdles in this restoration that are just waiting to jump out at me! The joys of old bikes! D

IF yoU Don’t want to fall into any of the common categories of rider, you’ll find that the options are limited short of starting from scratch and building your own bike. But every now and then a bike steps outside those common categories, and if you’re looking for that special bike, I suspect that when you first saw the Triumph Speed Twin in all its shinning glory, you were hooked. Especially when the bike is simply universally attractive.

Well, it’s better than attractive - the 1200 twin is a dashingly fine-looking machine in that modern but retro way and it’s even better to ride. And you won’t have to spend a wallet full of

money kitting yourself out in riding gear so as not to feel out of place. Jeans, boots and a scruffy old leather jacket - and maybe grandpa’s garden gloves - could just work.

This latest example of the parallel twin fits into the British brand’s Modern Classic tribe which also features the Bonneville, Street Twin, Scrambler, Thruxton, Bobber and Street Cup models. All of them attract buyers on looks and quality first, followed by performance: so says Triumph.

The style works for me and a heap of people that came up to us on our media two-day Victorian highlands launch. The hunkered, slightly rear

to front sloping line grew on me, as did the matt black mufflers. I could pass on the blacked - out engine, preferring the satin or polished sidecases of older models. Still, when was the last time you saw steel guards and a ten kilogram weight saving as well as better riding position over the excellent Thruxton? The detailing is superb along with the twin clocks and bar-end mirrors. My choice was the silver/grey paint scheme over the red or straight gloss black. We were 10 minutes into the media briefing and I was thinking that a good old ‘cut and paste’ from last months’ Scrambler launch would suffice. Apart from the obvious

difference in the look and market direction this new roadster has a lot in common especially in the engine department. Both are an evolution in the blending of the Hi-torque and power characteristics. But there are differences. For a little less cash you get a little more as the $18,000 Speed Twin has a couple of extra horsepower and Newton metres. A bit of a weight loss and front and rear 17 inch cast wheels promise

some agility over the Scrambler along with the half of the suspension travel for the roadster.

Most manufacturers at launches prefer to be the center of attention and hardly make mention of direct competition or influences, but in this case Triumph did and I can’t resist bringing up their comparisons. In order these were the BMW RnineT Pure. As far as I’m concerned (and as the ride demonstrated) the 1200

Triumph is smoother, produces torque in greater amounts across the rev-range and has a better top-end. It handles better too.

Next up the Ducati Scrambler 1100 and I couldn’t argue with Triumph after they plied us with another Pale Ale and informed us their twin had 13% more power and 27% extra torque. That is what a bucketload of R&D does for a project. For me, the Ducati would be half way between

the Speed Twin and the Scrambler XC in real terms.

Triumph’s marketing department had me a bit perplexed as the Big Brit thought the Z900 Kawasaki was in the mix vying for punters shopping for a classic looking ride. Given that style and quality, as well as the ability to customize, weigh heavily in this segment it is a strange match up. The Zed certainly has ample performance but lacks the personality of a thumping but smooth 270 degree twin. I’m not sure why Triumph’s market survey produced the Yamaha XSR900 to be in the mix, either. But they claimed better handling, more grunt (28% more) better brakes (Brembo), fuel economy, a lower seat and better finish and detailing. The Yammie is a pearler, although it will never have the drop-dead gorgeous look of the of this retroinspired machine. In my view the real competition is within Triumph’s own range. The new Triumph 1200 Scrambler, the Street Twin 900 and even the triple cylinder Speed and Street Triples would be in for a look. Until you ride the 1200 in this guise! This is an excellent powerplant wrapped up in a useful and even a safety aware package. With a splash of fuel the Twin comes in under 200 kilograms and because it is low and tight it feels 40kg less than it is. From the moment the taps are opened, the Pirelli Rosso Corsa 3s grip, the 1200 lacks for nothing in power and acceleration have a weekend blast or even to commute. From just off idle, with the tacho needle sweeping across its entire arc there is smooth power without a hint of unpredictability. Ninety horsepower is the ideal balance between intensity and inadequacy. As is the case with the Scrambler, the magic 100Nms create the illusion of more power; certainly more than you will ever need in traffic or on scratcher roads up in the hills. Any motorcycle that doesn’t lose speed or power on a gradient so steep that most trucks are grinding along in their lowest gear has found the magic balance of torque, power and gearing. Compared to the Scrambler

the road variant is pulling nearly 400 rpm more at 110km/h in 6th gear, so I was always wishing for fewer revs or another gear. The upside is the acceleration and put simply, it is a ball of fun.

If Triumph was aiming for a bit more road-useful kick I think they short-changed the weekend rider who will want to bung it into top and cruise. If your days off work allow you to go chasing a bit of sporting fun, then you are in for a smooth ride, but don’t go upsetting the suspension, which I feel is on the shorter side of travel, otherwise cornering is a joy. I didn’t trust the soft front end as it reacted to midcorner bumps harshly and the slightly rearset footrests touched down only if you really pushed your luck. Suspension control reflects the pricing while the braking package matches the performance very well. Braking on the front is sharp and progressive with good feel. I like a reasonably strong rear brake mainly for pillion work and the ABS package is well calibrated.

The comfort is fine once you accept that the flat seat will get no worse after the first 100 kilometres into the journey. Triumph must have worked on the cushioning aspect because on face value the seat looks good for only 50 kilometres at best.

It goes without saying the accessory options are almost as wide as an Amazon’s warehouse and range between exhausts, bling, chrome, covers and niff-naff's although I couldn’t suss out wire wheels.

Last month I professed undying love for the long-legged Scrambler and for reasons I can’t quite add up, the Speedy leaves me strangely not as impressed. It does lack the more up-market suspension brands found on the Scrambler and its do-anything attitude. Almost everyone on the launch, be it the public who crossed our paths or the fellow nut-case press luminaries, agreed that when looks matter the Speed Twin will be a real winner in its market segment. And you’ll be able to project your own personality. D

SPECS

TRIUMPH SPEED TWIN 1200

PRICE: $18,000 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 16,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled two-cylinder, 4-stroke, 270-degree DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 97.6 x 80mm

DISPLACEMENT: 1200cc

COMPRESSION: 11.0:1

POWER: 71.5kW @ 6750rpm

TORQUE: 112Nm @ 4950rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm telescopic fork, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 120mm. Rear, twin shocks, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 120mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 840mm, weight 196kg (dry), fuel capacity 14.5 litres, wheelbase 1430mm

TYRES: Front, 120/70 17. Rear, 160/60/17.

FRAME: Tubular steel double cradle

BRAKES: Front, twin 305mm discs with radial mount four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, twin-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 320km

COLOURS: Ice and Storm Grey. Korosi Red and Storm Grey. Jet Black.

VERDICT: A LOOKER AND A GOER

Heading for one of the ‘pueblos blancos’ in southern Spain on an IMTBIKE tour. [Photo IMTBIKE]

IMTBIKE, onE of My favourite operators, is incorporating Córdoba as a destination in its incredible tour through Andalusia.

Cordoba is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. Declared a World Heritage Site, Cordoba is a living legacy of history that portrays the different cultures (Christian, Muslim, Jewish) that influenced this city through time. Its famous patios, spectacular mosque, its culture and friendly people have made it one of Southern Spain´s gems that shouldn’t be missed.

“This 9 day tour begins in Malaga, a city known as the ‘city of light’ for the number of sunny days it

Round and round you go… southern Spain is a wonderful motorcycling environment. Ask Stuart, he’s just come back from there. [Photo IMTBIKE]

has year round,” they say. “This trip highlights other gems like Granada, Seville and Ronda as well as many more ‘pueblos blancos’ that we’ll encounter throughout this mountainous region of Spain.

IMTBIKE has improved its routing by adding an overnight stay in Cordoba in a high quality hotel right on the banks of the Guadalquivir River.”

Sadly, it’s too late for this as a guided tour this year, but here’s the good news: it can be done as a self-guided tour on your own or on a rental bike from IMTBIKE at any time of the year.

For more information on this Andalucía Tour and other motorcycle tours and rentals, contact IMTBIKE via email at tours@imtbike.com or visit them at www.imtbike.com .

AFRICAN ADVENTURE

Malawi – described by Africans as “the warm heart of Africa” – is also

the heart of this special one-off journey by Motoaventures, which circles Lake Kariba and gives you the chance to bike through these lesser known parts of the African continent. 16 nights on latest model GS1200s staying in wonderful African lodges and camps, we will start and end at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, bike through Mozambique, Malawi and Zambia, while taking in a range of breath-taking scenery and wildlife. Experienced guides and equipped support vehicles to cover all eventualities while out in the bush. Our route takes in the rhino area of Matobo Hills, Harare, as we cross through post-war Mozambique into Malawi, where we spend two nights at the beautiful “Lake of Stars”.

Visiting Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, we cross into Zambia to stay in Luangwa National Park with elephants walking through our camp and a night safari to spot leopards. Dodging traffic through Lusaka; onto the shores of Lake Kariba; followed

Watch out for a different kind of wildlife in southern Africa! [Photo The Bear]

by a spa on the Zambezi River and 4000kms later crossing the famous “bungee bridge” back to Victoria Falls. Our adventure covers new territories after many years of running motorcycle tours in South Africa. Leaving on Sept 4th, 2019! Don’t miss out! See www.motoaventures. com or drop them a line at info@motoaventures.com.

GRACIOUS GREECE

“To experience the beauty and antiquities of Greece from the seat of a motorcycle is to experience one of the world’s classic tourist destinations to the fullest,” says my friend Matej from Adriatic Mototours.

“We start in Athens with its worldfamous history, museums and ancient ruins. From there, we ride

twisty roads up to mountainous Monodendri. Along the way we visit several of the world’s greatest archaeological sites - Delphi, Meteora, Olympia, Monemvasia and Epidaurus - and relax on the beaches of Cephalonia Island. We experience some superb coastal riding - through the fishing villages and olive groves of the Peloponnesus, to the quaint

town of Nafplio - before we end our Greek journey.”

Adriatic Mototours’ offer includes a late model motorcycle with lockable

hard luggage and tank bag. Third party liability

guide on a motorcycle, support van for luggage and 1 or 2 passengers, airport transfers on arrival day or one day prior and on departure day, The

too.

High above the Mediterranean on the cliff-lined Corsican coast –what a ride! [Photo The Bear]

all maps for the region being toured, and extensive tour booklet and a GPS with all the routes uploaded. See https://www.adriaticmototours. com/tour/greece-tour for full details.

CAPTIVATING CORSICA & SPECTACULAR SARDINIA

“Many experienced travellers have been to France and Italy - two countries known for their culture, history, and cuisine, says Rob Beach from Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures. “Yet so few trips to Europe include Sardinia and Corsica. Is it worth the extra effort to see these isolated, out-of-the-way islands? If the mainland is a carefully curated and polished gemstone, Sardinia is the uncut emerald, full of interesting and unpredictable facets, while Corsica is the diamond in the rough, a stone that may be worth millions if only someone is brave enough to carve it out...

“Oh, Tuscany!” sighs Rob. “One must start at the beginning, which

in this case is Florence. Become acquainted with the birthplace of the Renaissance with an intimate walking tour. The ferry awaits in Livorno to transport man and machine over the Tyrrhenian sea. This is no rush-to-theterminal kind of ride, for allowances have been made for riders to enjoy the Tuscan hills and twisting roads. There’s even time to see Pisa, San Gimignano, or even Monteriggoni Castle before meeting at the dock.

“Sailing has changed much since Sardinia was first settled in the Paleolithic age. Riders will be in topclass cabins for the overnight trip, resting up for the perfect motorcycle roads that criss-cross the island.

“Sardinia is known as a “microcontinent” for its varied terrain. Five days may not be enough to explore this wondrous island in its entirety, but it is certainly enough to taste the high points. After spending the last day amongst the flowering trees between mountain and beach, a Sunday morning sail is all the separates

Italy from France.

“When designing an itinerary for a group, the goal is to never hit the high points too early. If expectations are raised too high too fast, disappointment certainly awaits just around the next corner. Yet for all the high points high in the first week of the Island Interlude, Corsica does not disappoint!

“This island is known as “the Mountain in the Sea” for good reason, and after five days will be hard to depart, so many nooks and crannies (and twisties) left behind. Another trip across the sea deposits the adventurers back in Tuscany for a couple of days to experience the essence of Italy before returning to Florence, and the rest of the world.”

Find out more about Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures at tours@bmca.com.

ASTOUNDING ANDES

“The Andes plateau is my favourite tour among the 71 countries we

15 years adriaticmototours.com

thailand & laos

HigHligHts

Sukothai (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Phu Rua, Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang

Prabang (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Mountains to Oudom Xai, Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle, Mekong River, Road of 1,864 curves, Long Neck Hill Tribe, Doi Inthanon

TOUR DATE NOV 24 - DEC 8

Peruvian road safety: big boulder on the road? No worries. Just paint it yellow… [Photo The Bear]

operate in,” says Gionata Nencini from Ride True Adventure in Chile.”

It’s safe, rich in culture, full of breathtaking landscapes and one of the most beautiful rides on the planet. I lived in Bolivia for 6 months and I keep a very intense memory of this country, its people and the beauty that it contains.

“You are free to ride the Andes

plateau within the convoy, following our leader and with the support vehicle right behind you. Or you can ride ahead of the convoy (you need a device able to read and navigate our .gpx trail) and enjoy this adventure at your own pace.

“Either way, we ride the same roads, we fuel up at the same stations, we eat

in the same villages and we lodge in the same hotels. If you get a flat the support vehicle will eventually catch up with you and fix your tyre within few minutes.”

Drop Gionata a line at info@ridetrueadv.com if you’d like to know more. There are departures for this tour from May to October. D

TOUR OPERATOR DIRECTORY

The guide to the stars

- The who’s who in the zoo of motorcycle travel worldwide is what you’ll fi nd here. These companies want to make your motorcycle travel the best it can be. We’ve travelled with many of them and know them all, so they come highly recommended. In alphabetical order, they are:

ASIAN EXPERIENCE

MOTORBIKE TOURS - Asia

www.asianexperience.com.au tours@asianexperience.com.au

ADRIATIC MOTO TOURS

Europe & Asia

www.adriaticmototours.com info@adriaticmototours.com

BEACH’S MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES - Italy, Hungary, Romania, Slovakia, Isle of Man, Croatia, Switzerland, Germany and Austria tours@bmca.com www.bmca.com

BIKE TOUR ASIA - Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, China & Myanmar. www.biketourasia.com info@biketourasia.com

COMPASS EXPEDITIONS

- North and South America, Europe, Asia, Australia and Africa www.compassexpeditions.com

EDELWEISS BIKE TRAVEL –Worldwide tours *

BLUE STRADA MOTORCYCLE

TOURS – North Carolina USA www.bluestradatours.com billk@bluestradatours.com

CENTRAL OTAGO

MOTORCYCLE HIRE AND TOURS – New Zealand www.comotorcyclehire.co.nz Info@comotorcyclehire.co.nz

* Guided, Self-Guided + Rental www.edelweissbike.com

EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES – Italy & French Alps www.europeanmotorcycle adventures.com naylor.ross@gmail.com

FLY AND RIDE THAILAND Thailand

www.fl yandridethailand.com info@fl yandridethailand.com

HEAR THE ROAD MOTORCYCLE TOURS ITALY - Italy

Peru, Brazil, Suriname, Guyana, French Guiana, Venezuela, Chile, Bolivia and Argentina www.Motolombia.com mike@motolombia.com

www.motorcycletoursitaly.com enrico@motorcycletoursitaly.com

IMTBIKE TOURS & RENTALS

- Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Europe and Thailand www.imtbike.com tours@imtbike.com

MOTOLOMBIA TOURS & RENTALS - Colombia, Ecuador,

PARADISE MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand & European Alps www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz

RIDE THE WORLD - Australia, India, South Africa, Vietnam, USA Adventure rides out of Las Vegas www.ridetheworld.com.au david@ridetheworld.com.au

SERENDIB MOTORCYCLING ADVENTURES – Sri Lanka www.SerendibMotorcycling Adventures.com info@SerendibMotorcycling Adventures.com

SOUTH PACIFIC MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand www.motorbiketours.co.nz offi ce@motorbiketours.co.nz

VIETLONG TRAVEL - Asia

www.vietlongtravel.com sales@vietlongtravel.com

WORLD ON WHEELS - Europe, Iceland, South America, India, Asia, Mexico, Africa & Himalaya www.worldonwheels.tours Adventure@WorldOnWheels.Tours

FREECOM 1+ is the world’s most advanced Bluetooth communication system whether you are riding alone or with a passenger.

WE

LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity.

LETTER OF THE MONTH

THE WINNER OF this month’s prize consisting of the fabulous Nelson-Rigg shirt and backpack goes to Greg who caught someone (who we suspect is Ralph) many years ago!

SIR RALPH THE GREAT Gents, Is this Ralph? Regards, Simon

Simon,

Oh my god, Ralph must enjoy no tan lines ever! As you can see from the above, this is the second photo this month someone has found of him! Bahahahaha! Cheers, Stuart.

Thanks for the laugh, Greg. Send me your shirt size and mailing address. For all your awesome luggage visit www. nelsonrigg. com.au Cheers, Stuart.

G’day,

This popped up on my newsfeed from an Aussie naturist social media page...is this one of your contributors being safe on a tour whilst foraging for food? Cheers, Greg Luscombe Greg, Yep, that’d have to Ralph for sure! LOL! Cheers, Stuart.

WHO CARES

Reading Boris, Aus’M’cylist #74 brought to mind my most recent experience with NSW Highway Patrol. Indeed there are more on the road, Friday - Sunday.

Riding The Bells Line of Road on a Sunday, Road & weather conditions great, traffi c light. Approaching intersection were the Darling Causeway veers to the left to Mt. Victoria was the H P with “hairdryer” in action, this is a 60km/h zone. I continued on T B L of R towards Lithgow (plan A lunch @ Workers Club).

Being an aware rider I continually glance in my mirrors. Yep, you guessed it the blue & reds were coming along behind me. Not

slowing down till H P was about 50 metres behind me. H P slowed down with me. Now here’s were it gets ticklish. For those who know this stretch of road there is no real shoulder to park on. What is there, is loose rock & road base.

I pulled on to this & not happy with where my side stand would have sat, I moved on some more, H P did the same. After dismounting very gingerly I was subjected to an r b t. No traffi c reg’ broken. H P is fully entitled to do this. The H P vehicle effectively blocked the west bound lane of T B L of R.

My concern is this. Is the NSW H P bound by the concept/principal of “Duty of Care”? If this had been a less experienced rider, dismounting

FUNNY PHOTO

may have been a different matter, just to mention one of a number of scenarios that could arise from this situation.

Cheers, Grahame Williams.

Hi Grahame,

Duty of Care can be a tricky one, especially in the situation you mention. I dare say the rider would be on his own. If it was the negligence of the offi cer that resulted in them being run over or the like then, yes the offi cer would be in breach. Cheers, Stuart.

TOP TIPS IN NT

Hi Stuart and Peter, Enjoyed seeing the writeup on Litchfi eld NP in the NT.

We were there in July 2017 as part of our 4 month 4WD camping trip (no motorcycle unfortunately).

We camped at a place you should probably add to any itinerary if you are up that way again, Sandy Creek (Tjaynera) campsite.

This is about 10km south of the tar road in Litchfi eld NP and the access track branches off where the main road tar head north to Wangi Falls.

The track is sandy but in good condition and you have to initially cross a side arm of the Reynolds River which would restrict it to riders on adventure bikes.

The river crossing was only 400500mm deep so no dramas.

The actual campsite is quite good, not too large, with showers and fl ush toilets. A nightly park fee is due.

There is also a day access parking area.

From the campsite you can do a 1.7km walk to the Tjaynera Falls and rock pool.

Unlike Wangi Falls, which gets crowded, you can have the falls and pool to yourself if you get there early in the morning.

Just slightly north of the campsite is the abandoned Blyth Homestead, established 1928.

In this isolated area the family raised 14 children.

They farmed cattle and also had a tin mine on the hill behind the main building.

To get to the homestead you have to do another crossing of a Reynolds River arm. This was a bit deeper but riders should get through ok.

A bit further south from the campsite you can see more giant termite mounds without being surrounded by hundreds of tourists. A rider could continue further south, cross the main Reynolds River, and head down to Daly River. Have added some photos for you - Tjaynera Falls and rock pool, and Blyth Homestead

Cheers, Neal

LIGHTEN UP

Dear Ed,

Did you hear the one about the patient at the mental hospital? There he was sitting on the lawn with fully rigged rod & reel casting the line out, a passing member of staff asked “caught any yet?” to which the patient replied “you’re the 5th”. Boris knows how to lay the berley trail, and how to play the game. Letters to Ed’ #75, wow did he hook one. Boris excels in “taking the piss”. He fi lls the role at A M as an entertainer 99% & 1% point(s) to be made. Mate, you take Boris with a grain of salt. Anyway, that’s how this reader views him. If he offends just wet your fi nger drag it down inside back page & stick Boris’s column to it. Like changing stations on the tv or radio.

Anyway, the pressure valve was activated, and hopefully all is now well.

Cheers, Grahame, Bexley.

TAKE A CHILL PILL

Hi Stuart

After reading Greg Milton’s comments regarding Boris I have to say I have been a little critical of Boris from time to time but I will defend his right to make these comments that seem to agitate some people, also it is great that your magazine gives Boris an open column to voice his disgust or love of motorcycles and all associated with them through journalism. If every article was based on the same don’t upset anyone attitude then you would only need one column writer. Yes I have met Boris and his

knowledge of motorcycles and his ability to present a new motorcycle onto the market is very informative and he does know the motorcycle Industry very well and of course once I saw the size of his arms then I politely shied away from letting him know I was the mongrel who criticized him in an earlier audition.

PURE HARRASSMENT

G’day

Many years ago there used to be a motorcycle race at Mt Panorama Bathurst, I vividly remember the NSW Police harassment going to and from the mountain, and on the mountain as well. As the years passed there were fewer and fewer spectators and then no motorcycle racing over Easter. In 1986 a group of my friends decided to have a happy birthday party for the 100th year since motorcycles were invented. The venue was Phillip Island, the few hundred people who made it out of the thousands that set out have to be commended, yes the police turned people back. It was a fi nancial disaster for my friends, but it did open the Phillip Island circuit up again. In the years that have followed I have been stopped by the police on many occasions, this year for some reason I was not stopped! But I did see many police on their motorcycles watching me and everyone else, just itching to raise some revenue. They rode up and down the outside roads and I even saw a divi van in the viewing area.

One year it was wet and cold as I rode past Mirboo North and down into Wonthaggi, my gloves were wet, I hardly saw another motorcycle rider as we were all just cruising with the traffi c. I along with all the other riders were stopped for the rego/licence check in Wonthaggi. I told the nice policeman that it was police harassment and that he was no better than the NSW police, as you can imagine he was not happy and neither was I (my wife calmed me down). He told me they were trying to stop us motorcycle riders from killing ourselves on the Great Alpine Road!!

The interesting thing that I noticed was after the police check, was the way the motorcycle riders reacted (including me), suddenly everyone was angry and started to pass on double lines, pass on the inside and generally rode with a F... you attitude, I could not believe the change from just cruising to angry aggression.

In 2013 I was lucky enough to be able to ride my motorcycle to Silverstone in the UK to watch the World Superbikes. I rode the 50 miles to the track and spent a wet afternoon watching the superbikes and then rode back to my camp. I did not see one policeman of any description, what bliss. If I had been pulled up like the police here do, that would have been seen as Profi ling. Profi ling is illegal in the UK and if the press gets even a hint of it, it becomes news.

So what are we going to do about it, nothing as usual I bet. Don’t ask me what happened to the Superbikes and Moto GP when they go elsewhere for want of a crowd. It

is about time the organisers and the riding public started to make waves and protest about this police state and the way the police profi le not just the motorcycle race goers but other groups such as, so called “Bikers”, and those who attend concerts and parties, you know the ones where drugs may be present, etc, etc. Could you just imagine the hue and cry if the police stopped everyone going to and from the Melbourne Cup.

Name supplied but not published as I don’t want to be victimised.

TRAVEL INSURANCE

To the Editor

A mate and I are intending to do an organized motorcycle tour in Malaysia (650cc motorcycles) also intending to rent motorcycles and self- guide travel.

I have noticed that a number of travel insurance policies will not cover you for motorcycles above 200cc or ever lower engine capacities. I have found some that do.

Have you any recommendations regarding Travel insurance Co’s that provide cover for riders on over 200cc machines or perhaps insurers we should avoid?

Grateful for any advice you can provide on this matter

Regards

Edward Towner

Hi Edward,

I use 1Cover who usually cover any size bike. The Bear has found it depends on your age with a number of companies too. So all I can say is give 1Cover a call and confirm they’ll cover you. Cheers, Stuart.

ADVENTURE FANGING

Hi Peter, I live in Tasmania on a mountain. Our road is a wonderful one lane gravel road that goes up a Jacob’s ladder to the top of the mountain. Today we came home to fi nd that our road was full of KTM Riders. Over 100 of the orange meercats standing on their pegs and tearing up the road surface.

The KTM Adventure rally was on its last day and the organisers chose our fantastic road as part of their course. My problem is that many of the riders were doing ridiculous speeds, standing on their pegs, roosting, and worse in my eyes, cutting across blind corners using the whole width of the narrow road.

I even had 3 bikes decide to overtake me in my car, I had no idea that they were behind me as there are many corners, more corners than straight bits actually. No warning from them, road surface only around 4 metres max wide, then zoom past they go. Now I may be over cautious but nearly 50 years of motorcycle riding may have something to do with that. Our road regularly has work vehicles travelling up it to repair and maintain television and radio towers. These people are not used to too much traffi c and they drive like a lot of Tasmanians. Which means that they cut corners and line the centre of the bonnet up with the road centre. Now I understand choice, it is the motorcyclists’ choice if they decide to leave the planet by launching themselves off the edge of the road into the forest or launching themselves over a car bonnet.

REAL AUSTRALIA

Being a rider of an adventure type bike and choosing to mostly ride on dirt, I understand the thrill of fi nding new, out of the way places. My main problem is that I am a selfi sh old mongrel who does not wish to have a motorcyclist land on my car bonnet, or worse collide with me when I am on my own bike. It appears that the companies who want to sell adventure bikes advertise their wares by showing us bikes tearing up beaches (never mind any nesting birds), having very skilful riders doing long wheelstands on their bikes and ripping around corners with the rear wheels sliding about. Now that does make me a little jealous because my skills are not up to some of those things, and never will be. I have chosen to be a distinguished old rider who stays alive for as long as I am enjoying it. The question is this, Is it responsible for companies to encourage their customers to ride in such irresponsible ways on public roads? Again a gripe of mine is that I wanted to ride my bike down the mountain to check my mail, which means a 32 kilometre ride. Unfortunately I did not like my chances of getting there and back in one piece, without having a KTM embedded in my bike and me. Who is really responsible, the companies selling massively powered bikes with unrealistic ideals of rider skills, the organisers of the rally, or the lunatic who has an overinflated belief of their own indestructability?

Go to www.bikeme.tv/index.php/shop/ Or email Borrie directly on Boris@bikeme.tv

K 1600 B

F

F

F

F 850 GSA

R 1250 GS

R 1250 GS Rallye

$13,590

$17,305

$13,840

$21,505

$TBA

$23,490

$24,940

R 1250 GS Rallye X $29,890

R 1250 GS Exclusive

R 1250 GS Spezial

R 1250 GSA

R 1250 GSA Rallye

$28,140

$31,390

$25,490

$26,390

R 1250 GSA Rallye X $31,590

R 1250 GSA Exclusive

R 1250 GSA Spezial

ScooteR

C 650 Sport

C 650 GT

CAN-AM (BRP) www.brp.com

Spyder F3

Spyder F3-S

Spyder F3-T

Spyder F3 Limited

Spyder RT

$30,790

$30,540

$14,150

$14,990

Spyder RT Limited $TBA

CF MOTO

www.cf-moto.com.au

DUCATI

www.ducati.com.au

*All Ducati prices are ride away

Road

Scrambler Sixty2

Scrambler Icon

Scrambler Full Throttle

NeW BIKe PrICes

HONDA

HUSQVARNA

KAWASAKI

www.swmmotorcycles.com.au

TRIUMPH

www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au *Some Triumph prices are ride away

Bonneville T120

Bonneville T120 Black

Scrambler 1200 XC

BEING ANNOYED 101

You might have noticed in the most recent issue that I have decided to limit the negative stuff in my columns, to the point of dropping the ‘Grizzling’ column entirely. Well, was that a challenge to the Fates, or what!

Picture the scene. I am in Griffith in the Riverina, rolling into town on Banna Avenue. I need fuel, so I stop at the BP station just before Crossing Street. I fill the bike and wander over to the teeny supermarket that, here as elsewhere, has taken the place of a proper service station. I am wearing my open-face helmet and I proffer my credit card. Mr Pencilneck behind the counter takes the card and then makes fluffy motions around the side of his head while expostulating about something. Since I’m wearing ear plugs under the helmet, I can’t understand what he’s saying.

I remove my helmet and the plugs.

“You can’t wear that (indicating the helmet) in here.” I refrain from pointing out that I am not wearing the helmet.

“Why not?”

“It’s against the law.”

“No, it’s not.”

“And you can’t even bring it inside here. It’s against the law.”

“No, it isn’t.” I regret giving him my card, because that gives him the upper hand.

“There is no law about wearing or not wearing helmets in a servo. In fact, it’s you who’s breaking the law by attempting to force me to do something you have no right to. Letting me fill the bike with the helmet on established a contract between us, and you cannot vary the contract

by demanding that I remove it.”

He backs off. “It’s a safety thing.”

“It may well be. And if you had a sign at the pump requiring me to remove my helmet before filling the bike, that would be fine.”

“It’s a security thing!” I expect him to give me the usual bullshit story about being robbed – please note the statistics show very clearly that servos are far more likely to be robbed by people wearing hoodies than motorcycle helmets. But Mr Pencilneck is tapped out for stupid comments and holds my card over the machine, which does its thing.

“May I have my receipt? Thank you. And don’t tell people that something is against the law unless it really is, all right?”

Next time you find yourself in beautiful downtown Griffith, you might like to drop in at the BP station and reaffirm for Mr Pencilneck what the law is regarding helmets.

I was on my way to the first Bear Army Manoeuvres of the year in Lockhart (read about it elsewhere in this issue) and I guess I’d started out in a good mood. I wasn’t in a good mood when I left the servo. Fools like Mr Pencilneck make motorcyclists look like potential criminals, something that really annoys me. Still, I suppose I should feel sorry for him. As a great man

once (and more than once) said: “I piddy da fool.”

On a much more positive note, I had a terrific ride on our long-term Benelli TRK502X, which I returned to its home in Melbourne after the festivities. A half-litre engine might seem to be on the small side for (relatively) long-distance riding, but I managed to run up a couple of thousand kilometres quite happily. You can read about that in these pages too, possibly also in this issue.

Country NSW was looking in better shape than it was on my recent ride along the Lachlan. There was a lot of green, and farmers were clearly optimistic enough to be ploughing their fields ready for sowing. I grew up in a small farming village so I understand a bit about the vagaries of that life and it was good to see some positive signs. Here’s hoping that the rain follows through – send ‘er down, Hughie! Sadly, country towns do not look as if they’re sharing in the improvement. More and more empty shops line the mostly empty main streets and often the pub seems to be the only remaining business in town. One of the locals in Lockhart was telling me that the concerted attempt to keep a post office in town means that she refuses to use online billing or payment for the bills – every letter the local postie has to deliver means a bit more of a reprieve for the PO.

While we’re on the subject of Australia Post, you may have noticed that there are fewer of the iconic red Postie bikes around. The ‘corporation’ (I think that’s what it’s called these days) is switching to two- and three-wheeled pushbikes, muscle or electric powered, because they’re considered to be ‘safer’. Beats me how they can decide that.

But then, like Donald Trump ‘what do I know?’ Maybe they could use waterbombing aircraft to deliver the mail? D

BORIS WORDS BORIS MIHAILOVIC

NO FORGIVENESS

IAnd the more dangerous it is, the more enjoyment there is in doing it. Cheating death is the ultimate rush. Nothing ever beats it. Nothing ever can.

WILL NEVER FORGIVE them for making us wear helmets. Ever. Damn them for doing it, and damn us for letting them do it to us.

In one fell swoop, that now ancient, but still diabolical legislation, ripped out one of motorcycling’s most wondrous aspects and made motorcycling a lesser thing. It happened a long time ago. I know. And no. I’m not over it.

I’m not over it because I know what I am missing out on.

If you’re now hotly pissing into your colostomy bag with outrage, then you don’t. So, either go and find out what it’s like so your opinion is informed, or jam your puerile outrage up your blurter where it can keep the rest of your anal motorcycle proclivities company.

I spent almost a decade deciding when I would wear a helmet and when I would not wear a helmet. So I know perfectly well what a life-affirming, soul-enriching, and joy-inducing exercise not wearing one is.

I also still do it, as often as I can, in places where the Highway Patrol is unlikely to run me down with one of its new German luxury vehicles. Why do I do it?

Why do people do drugs? Why do people gamble? Why do people drink? Climb mountains? Parachute off buildings? Why does anyone do anything?

Because it’s fun and they enjoy doing it.

I know a lot of you motheaten, piss-smelling, safety-first cretins would rather eat your own lungs than presume to ride your motorcycle without a helmet.

And that’s fine. Off you go. Go and be the cancer at the very heart of motorcycling. You wretched, mewling cur who grovels at the Altar of Safety.

You are the very reason why motorcycling is becoming a shadow of its former self, and is dying the death of a thousand cuts.

You have permitted our rulers to have won.

They have finally and irrevocably convinced almost all of us, and certainly the younger people, that Safety is the guiding facet of life in Australia. Safety is the ultimate god. Safety is the Alpha and the Omega. You are to be made safe from yourself and everything around you at any cost.

Your civil liberties be damned. Your personal choices be double-damned. You will comply. And you will be safe though the heavens fall, the seas boil, and the stars are extinguished.

Our rulers have been at us now with this Safety bullshit for decades. They have repeated the same message over and over, and they have enacted insane laws and draconian penalties to back up their agitprop. The media has eagerly backed this up by running headline news stories about people speeding, traffic accidents, and interviews with traumatised victims – as if this is somehow news and not bald-faced, clumsy-arsed, cheeseshitting propaganda.

As a result, we now live, for all intents and purposes, in a police state. Our police are everywhere all the time – at every large social event, concert, bar, nightclub, or festival – in force and ostensibly for our own safety. They even have the gall to charge

organisers of events for this policing as if they were armed mercenaries and soldiers of fortune, rather than simple employees of the state doing their bloody jobs.

They are everywhere on main roads, both overtly and covertly, blatantly raising billions for the state while mouthing the endless safety mantra over and over. It’s worked so well, a large percentage of Australians actually support and encourage them in this massive, cynical, and naked cash-grab. They even admit they work to a quota system now.

They don’t care if we know this. It’s not like we can do anything about it, is there?

Because anything and everything can be and is justifi ed in the name of public safety.

And if you’re shaking your head in disbelief that I would advocate such a thing as being able to make a personal choice about wearing a helmet, then you are the prime tumour. All the rest is just metastases.

What’s that? Why would you have to pay for my medical expenses if it goes wrong?

For the same reason I have to pay for you folding those Big Macs into your greedy maw while you grow a belly to sustain your heart disease and diabetes. Who do you reckon is going to cost the state more over a longer period of time, sugar-bear? You and your piss-drinking, take-awayeating, sugar addiction, or me and my brain damage?

Look, at the end of the day you and your ilk has won. So calm your engines. I’m just yelling at clouds. You’ve got the nanny state you’ve always wanted. We all have to wear the helmets. We have no choice. It’s for our own good, just like you’ve always wanted it to be, you piece of soulless rubbish.

Except when they’re not looking. And there are still places where they’re not looking. D

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AMM june 2019

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