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EDITORSPEAKS
Why the nosedive?
THE NEWS IS not good. Latest quarterly motorcycle sales results recently came out and road bike sales overall are down 14.9% compared to the same time last year. This is a worry for all of us, but I have a couple of ideas as to what has led to this downfall.
Firstly, I think the constant financial strain a lot of people are feeling is finally taking effect. Secondly, the industry has obviously got its marketing spend wrong. Their internet and social media marketing has been wasted, when they’ve actually ignored their core market area. Sure, they have wanted to try new things – excellent, but for the second time now, it simply hasn’t worked. Seriously, tell me anyone you know who clicks on ads that pop up on an internet page you’re reading, or on your Facebook feed? I certainly don’t, and just find them irritating, as do most of the people I speak to.
Thirdly, I think the boom of new riders into the market has stalled for the time being. Despite some LAMS bikes still selling well, others have fallen dramatically, dragging the overall figure down. Surprisingly, Touring motorcycle sales are quite small compared to the category that everyone thought was dead – Supersports. Chiropractors across the country will rejoice at all the
new business! Hahaha!
On our Facebook page we had some opinions from you guys about what you feel are the main reasons sales are down. The consensus was insurance and CTP costs along with the Police constantly harassing motorcyclists for no other reason than that they’re on two wheels. What are your thoughts on the matter? Let us know.
main constantly world lately. the has holiday?
“What is the world coming to?” is something I’ve heard from many people lately. With all that’s going on around the world, has this made you think twice about travelling to Europe or the United States for a motorcycling holiday? I know a few people who have mentioned to me that this worry has halted their plans. But if there is one place that you should be thinking of going, it is New Zealand! Yep, our friends over the ditch seem to be out of the way with all that happens in other countries. Er, so I guess I should also plug our New Zealand readers’ tour, shouldn’t I! Hint, hint; wink, wink! Yes, we’re going back to the South Island for another readers’ tour in 2018. You can read all about the details in this issue. What encouraged us to not skip a year, like we had planned? Well, it’s quite simple – irresistible scenery and unmatched roads. Anyone who has ridden around the South Island of New Zealand will know that kilometre for kilometre, nowhere else in the world can offer so much stunning scenery and amazing motorcycle roads in the one small package. We are doing the tour with our great friends at Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ. Andre and Mike are great blokes and run a mega professional outfi t. I really hope to see you there and as you’ve probably read in the past, anyone who has come along on one of our previous tours has had the time of their lives! And don’t forget our Vietnam tour as well. Two very different tours, in two amazing locations, 2018 is going to be very exciting!
Enjoy!
Cheers, Stuart.
Come and see us some time
Sydney Motorcycle Show
The 2017 Sydney Motorcycle Show is being held over the 24-26 November so come and see the new convention centre at Darling Harbour while checking out the latest and greatest motorcycles on the planet. There’s heaps to see and do and that includes coming to see us at our stand! For all the details, visit www. sydneymotorcycleshow.com.au
still goin’ south
Motorcycle SaleS doWN
For the second consecutive period, motorcycle sales are down. Compared to the same period last year, road bike sales are down 14.9%. Honda still holds the market lead of 22.8 per cent ahead of Yamaha with a 19.9 per cent share, Kawasaki third 9.5%
and Harley-Davidson fourth with 8.9%. Hopefully the upcoming Sydney Motorcycle Show will help kick things
along for the rest of the year and early next. There are certainly some amazing new bikes in the pipeline.
getting dressed up dGr 2017
On September 24th, 2017, streets around the world hummed to the tune of classic and vintage style
motorcycles as The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride paraded its way through 581 cities, with almost 94,000 dapper men and women raising funds and awareness for prostate cancer and men’s mental health on behalf of the Movember Foundation. This year, The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride has already raised $4.68M USD. Great work to all involved, even The Bear got ‘dappered up’ and got to ride the new Ducati Scrambler Desert Sled.
the best thing, ever! Metzeler winnerS
Over the last few months if you subscribed or resubscribed to Australian Motorcyclist you went into the draw to win (up to the value of $400) a set of Metzeler tyres. Each month Ralph would call each lucky winner with a mixed reaction on the other end – some were stand-offish, thinking Ralph was trying to sell them a steam mop, but most were over the moon, saying, “I never win anything”! Well, you (below) have certainly won! If you haven’t subscribed or resubscribed get your act together and Ralph could be calling you very shortly!
Just some of the chicken dinners have gone to - Peter Oaster, David Ferlazzo, Ben Parker and our latest winner, Bryne Fowler. D
WORDS RALPH PhOtOS HARLEY-DAVIDSON
IFIND A COUPLE OF concepts impossible to comprehend. There’s the Big Bang event (no, not the TV program). The whole universe, with all of its billions of galaxies and wonders, expanded from a single atom. And possibly there is an infinite number of universes hidden in other dimensions.
Only one step away from that, and nearly as perplexing, is the new HarleyDavidson Softail range. A single frame and two engines expand to 12 models plus a few ‘anniversary specials’. That taxes my cognitive processing nearly as much. And we had a mere two days out of Pasadena to get our heads around those outwardly very different models orbiting around us, defined not just by looks but by feel. Two days of riding in the mountains behind Los Angles, trying to grapple with the intricacy of the staggering job that Milwaukee’s engineers have done.
As far as the Harley-Davidson factory is concerned, the new frame and this dozen models represents their biggest and most ambitious single project ever. The tubes and castings on which all this new, gorgeous hardware hangs are vital. By designing a completely new chassis from the ground up, the factory reckons it’s met just about every requirement their old and potentially new customers asked for.
The many riders whom H-D surveyed wanted more performance, better handling, less heat, less weight, improved comfort and increased clearance. But naturally they still wanted that unique H-D feel and sound. Luckily they didn’t ask for lower prices! No win on that front, although the add-on value is better by a US mile. Innovation is rarely a term attached to the Milwaukee firm but LED lighting, ‘racing style cartridge’ front forks and adjustable rear
suspension and ‘advanced braking’otherwise known as ABS - certainly modernise the bikes and make them even more attractive.
The Holy Grail is to reach new customers – lots of new customers - without straying too far from the wholesome desires of the HarleyDavidson fanbase. I have to admit the loss of the Dyna-Glide in the process meant diddly-squat to me, but it had the more hard-core shield and badge brigade a little miffed. You can’t please everybody, but H-D has come pretty close with this new range.
Underpinning all of the new Softails is the lighter and stiffer frame or ‘bones’. This was often repeated during our briefing. Aesthetically the tubing is neater and gives the range a slightly more compact look and feel. They feel 20% lighter and more manoeuvrable compared to the touring ‘Glide’ ‘Road’ and ‘Ultra’ range although in real terms they are only a few percent lighter than the older Dyna and Softail models. The electrical wiring is tidier, the line from the steering head to the axle is straighter and definitely pleasing to the eye. Benefits from the improved Showa SDBV suspension on the front and the beefed up rear mono-shock
include better handling. Harley claims better acceleration due to more torque with both the Milwaukee-Eight 107 and 114 engines. I think the weight saving and refinements over the whole range will increase the bikes’ appeal both for riders new to the brand and to those of us who don’t like their cruisers to feel too massive and hard to manage. The noticeable variation in fork angles between a stretched out 34 thru a relaxed 30 to a kicked in 28 degrees helps to differentiate the models.
For 2018 the engines have received a second counter-balancer to quell the vibes; the new frame is sans the rubber mounts. The gearbox casings have been slimmed down in the chase for more ground clearance. Let’s start with the 145Nm 107’s. The near-new Milwaukee-Eight engine is spread across the eight base models but it is the only option on the Street Bob, Low Rider, Softail Slim and the Deluxe. Seriously, it is a gem on all fronts. All the bikes except for the Slim have tall and narrow wheels compared to the Softail Slim which has the fattest tyres this side of a dune-buggy. Also, to complicate the choice apart from the look is the feel, which is defined equally by the wheel size and by ergonomics.
Cockpit
Seats
Riding Suits
STREET BOB
STREET BOB
First cab off the rank is the Street Bob at $23,495 ride away, sitting at the front of the Harley showroom, pride of place, as the entry-level way into the American dream, luring new and younger riders into the fold. It is ripe for going to town on, too. Big motor and a small chopped out stance, the Street Bob felt pretty pure, simple and at 297kg, light to me.
I didn’t like the ride at fi rst; I had problems coming to terms with the high ’bar and the seat which only knows one position - but I did appreciate the small 13.2 litre fuel tank which plonks your legs and everything in between just over the top of the expose rear cylinder. All of its blackness is on show, from the rims and exhaust right through to most of the engine and even the handlebar.
$23,495
It is a fun ride and if you like an uncompromising seat and semi feet forward controls you will be very impressed with its point-and-shoot nature. The wire wheels, high ‘bar and the very elegant (is that a word you can use in California?) tiny digital instrument panel placed between the handlebar mounts still leaves enough of a blank canvas which should attract the attention of the followers of Sons of Anarchy.
LOW RIDER
Seven hundred dollars more ups the ante as far as style and chrome goes and I reckon the $24,250 Low Rider serves up all the magic of HarleyDavison I grew up with. I spent a lot of my misspent youth flicking through copies of ‘Easyriders’ on the building and mine sites I frequented. The tank mounted speedo and tacho are unique now in the Softail range, and so is the chrome strip running from under your backside right through to the rear indicators. For me, the major difference is the lower handlebar position and the thicker, more comfortable one-and-a half seat improves the ride.
I gelled with the Low Rider quickly. It cries out ‘customise me’, and for me it is better value and a better ride than the two-thousand-dollar dearer Softy Slim. You miss out on a tank badge,
only scoring a retro sticker, but the upside, apart from the chrome and cast wheels, is the notable balance between front and rear wheel sizes. The rake is kicked out a gentle 30
degrees and suits the 19 inch front while the 16 inch rear offers resistance to any bump-steer. The 180/70 is still a wide tyre compared to the 150 rear on the Slim. The accessories
$24,250
catalogue can give the credit card a bit of a bash with things like detachable windshields, two-up seat and backrest with chrome rack and saddlebags. I tallied up an impressive $7500 without trying but I did go to town with chrome work and Screamin’ Eagle performance goodies.
SLIM
At first glance while milling around our five-star Pasadena establishment I would have nominated the Softail Slim at $26,250 as the entry level H-D. Sitting low to the ground on the fat and small diameter 16” wheels laced up with the black rims and the single seat, it does look post World War 2 hot-rod bobberish and it was my least favourite ride on some of the best curvy roads we were let loose on. This could have been an ideal environment for a sports bike launch and you have to give Harley points for bravery for picking these
mountain roads. It was a good score getting the USA launch while most of the remaining press had the hills behind Barcelona.
The Slim grounds out early and was a bit of a handful to keep on the exact arc I chose, but I’m punting anyway the looks and stance mean the city is the ‘Slim’s domain. Between the cut-down front and rear guards, the large central tankmounted speedo and the wide, low
bar I thought the simplicity of the Slim offered a better image than the Street Bob. That 107 ci engine has enough power and there was no shortage of traffi c light drag strip takeoffs to have a lot of fun with this bike. On our roads and in our language, the Slim is happy between 40 and 130km/h, yet the 107 has a lot more to give if you want to push the comfort boundaries. Certainly more than the 103 in the old model.
$26,250
SLIM
every generation has to make some history of its own.
I think the best colour for this bike is white rather than the black. The lighter colours accentuate the style, giving the squat nature quite a different look. A few of the Harley-centric troopers I was travelling with gave it a lot more credit than I was prepared to give the ‘bobber’. This is the first model as you move up the dollar scale that comes with footboards.
DELUXE
Offering more, and much more to my liking, was the cool looking Deluxe 107, striking with its white-wall tyres and heavily valanced mudguards. The twin spot lights either side of the headlight along with the proper fuel tank badges makes for a nice nostalgic salute. The level of detail is extensive over the entire range; each model has
little signature items to differentiate it from each other model. The Deluxe badging, both on the tank and the front guard, is superb and I loved the strip LED indicators. They are classy compared to the old-fashioned round plastic bullet shaped units.
$29,495
My turn on the Deluxe came at the first photo stop and this is where I’m sure I was really getting off on all the improvements the technical brief that morning had so enthusiastically spoken about. Lighter weight meant better handling and attention to reducing mass and therefore width led to better lean angles. It is weird that we can be programmed into believing chrome front forks and righthand hub shrouding and whitewalled tyres means a cruiser can’t go around corners! The natural riding position helps and if you want the real candidate for some spirited riding then look no further. And the well cushioned and thick seat makes a huge difference, too. The nice lean angle works well and on the smooth tar following the twisties the
$27,495
Deluxe was quite remarkable. Fuel capacity is a healthy 22.7 litres and the narrower 16 inch wheels offer lots of manoeuvering luxury in my eyes. ‘Sleeper in the range’ was about the most common quote of that day; most of us said something like “oh my, doesn’t the Deluxe perform better than you’d expect!”
The bike is a bit of a touring daytripper or urban toy, with the reworked Showa forks and the rear shock giving the right balance between handling and comfort. The ride position was the best of all the bikes I sampled over two full days of riding. A winner for me? Almost, and price of $29,495 looks right. More than one fellow reptile of the press lamented the unavailability of the 155Nm 114ci option on the Deluxe.
Now we’re moving up into the serious side of Softailing. Attitude gets a rev up along with pricing and with the looks jumping from the classic style to more edgy, aggressive ‘own the street’ and ‘have control of your freedom’ look.
This second group now have an option of the two engines. You can jump up from the 107 to a 114 ci although that privilege will set you back around $2700 to $3000 depending on the model. Is it worth it? Of course it is. It is the difference between an M rated movie or the R version or even a lowly V6 up against a V8. Both capacities will stimulate you, no doubt, both will give you all the jollies you could ever want but the little extra width in the holes is going to guarantee a lot more satisfaction. Without overstating the sexual reference, isn’t that what
motorcycling is about? I’m sure Harley would like you to buy into the big is better meme, and Aussies have always voted that way as well.
FAT BOB
Big fat donuts and twin upswept exhaust is the ‘Hero’ Fat Bob. It is offered with the 107 or 114 engine. The H-D PR boffins were attaching a ‘zombie apocalypse’ label and I think the jetlag was catching up with me after the 15-hour flight and a night of cocktails called the Milwaukee 8 and the Fat Bob. In my jetlagged state I favoured a ‘chasing a very youthful market’ approach, and ‘while we’re at it let’s go hunting some sales from Ducati’s so-called sports cruisers and pick up the sales of the soon to be discontinued Yamaha V Max’. Brave plans indeed, and how close can Harley go with this radically styled F-Bob?
Lots of ground clearance helps. Serious grunt it does have. Looks with attitude is a given. Even twin discs on the front along with USD forks are a must. A ride away starting from $27,495 is certainly attractive in the 107 form. So if you’re after the best Harley to go carving up those mountain passes we enjoyed on the launch, then look no further. We’re stepping away from cruising on the boulevard into a new territory here; a small pillion seat perches on the rear just in case you get lucky.
When I pushed Kirk Rasmussen, the project Styling Manager, on the most compromised design element on this bike he admitted that the footpegs took a lot of the team’s time. Finding the best place aesthetically as well as functionally was not easy. They only
had a small variable area to play with between the exhausts, and getting the choice between clearance and looks just right.
The 28° steering rake and the 1630mm wheelbase help with the look but the 306kg wet weight doesn’t add agility. I just about had to create an international incident to get hold of the prized Fat Boy from the Mexicans and Canadians. (And really, there are too many Bobs and Fats and Streets let alone double barrelled names in the Softtail range - why not just call all them Slim or Fat?)
I can surmise that the Fat Boy was the best motorcycle their foreign interneting arses had ever been on, but I was looking for a good time and to find out if the big fella could cut it on great roads. Yes, it sure can. In a deliberate way you have to wrestle the package over to the tyre limit and there is still some space between the pegs and the surface. You can squeeze on plenty of power from the fly-by-wire and let loose with of lot of guttural noises and acceleration.
I am not saying that red Ducatis will be a distant thing in your mirrors, only that this will be the first Harley that some sensible and not so sensible sports riders might plonk down $33,995 on and get a decent 114ci fix. You will need that 114 to complete a decent match-up and put a very non- H-D word in your vocabulary without spending double the purchase price on hot-up gear. There will be any amount of flack about the headlight from the same people bemoaning the fact that they didn’t buy a Dynaglide before its axing. But you can’t buy a new Dyna any more, so don’t live in the past: the Fat Boy is the future. Well, at least until Harley gets into action and something like it is offered on the other 90 new models we’re likely to see in the next nine years or so. Styling wise the twin upswept exhausts are going to be the biggest talking point and again the Fat Bob may just be the watershed and defining model in the range. Wait until you spot that 240mm rear tyre and those deeply dished solid wheels on the Fat Boy!
FAT BOY
FAT BOY
Here I am out on a limb: I want to believe that the Fat Boy 114 is the sexist and best looking bike in the new Softail range. The just-right proportions from front to back and especially the way the engine stands out amounts to pure genius. The alloy cast wheel somehow fits in the rear under the guard and a belting 240mm tyres bellows out ‘let’s go drag-racing’. The briefing was at pains to point out the references of the Fatty were Salt Flat racing cars of the ‘70s and the riding position is more about acceleration than outright speed and like all the other fat-tyred bikes in the range it is intended to shy away from fun peg scrapping and lean more towards traffic-light drag-foolery. In fact, some of the best riding I had on the Fat Boy was the desert cruising taking in the scenery. From the satin chrome up front to the solid wheels I bet the $33,950 bigger 114 will outsell its smaller (107) and cheaper $30,995 brother three to one. Although, not
$30,995
my first pick in the range I would put my free blue open face Harley commemorative helmet on the line and predict the Fat Boy will be the biggest seller.
BREAKOUT
The fat 240mm rear tyre and skinny front tyre of the Breakout probably gave our over- fed-and-watered crew
the biggest amount of grin-X-factor fun. The Breakout is as crazy as it is fabulous looking and along with the Street and Fat Bobs has the smaller 13.2 litres fuel tank. The pegs touch down as often whenever the throttle was slammed to the stop out of corners, and I give the engineers full marks for the work done caressing the suspension and chassis - otherwise my time might have been cut short
BREAKOUT
$31,250
by a hospital visit. This is the sort of bike that begs you to be ‘anti’ this and ‘stuff that’! Maybe even the name spells out that jail time will loom if you don’t pull back the lunacy to the social standard that the Heritage Classic or Deluxe imbues. Glance back over your shoulder at the Breakout and tell me the lines are not the perfect aesthetic from the low handlebars back to the rear axle? The raked-out forks and especially the angle the rear header exits forward and then sharply back into the muffl er is ‘attitude’ personifi ed. The ballsiest bit is the 21” front wheel
and the same digital dash as on the Street Bob. Nearly $34,000 dollars means I would have to commit some serious jailtime crime to afford one, but the Breakout isn’t the model I would go for anyway.
HERITAGE CLASSIC
If ever there has been a motorcycle with the past and future married in a beautiful union, then it has the Heritage Classic name on it. The consensus was weighing heavily to the traditional but totally revamped Softail range and the Classic says
it all. New technology, the best of vintage looks and presentation. Appointments like the quickly dispatchable screen and the lockable waterproof saddlebags. This is the model that encompasses the new refi nements and assurance that comfort and handling exists along with stunning looks and the unique (lordy, they use the word ‘authentic’ in every sentence) and authenticity of Harley-Davidson.
I had cycled through and back most of the range (blame the Mexicans) before my time on the Heritage and coming from a more ‘sporty’ background of riding I was trying to evaluate the dynamic level of the Softails rather than how practical they may be, or how easy to ride for the intended buyer.
It took a while to put my fi nger on why wasn’t I really worried about the gear-changing or braking or how the fuelling was on or off the throttle. Harley has evolved enough now so that a lot of what was once ‘character-building’ is now so well refi ned and in the back of your mind that you can forget them. I started
HERITAGE CLASSIC
to consider how anyone can actually quantify the things that are more important, like enjoyment. By now I was beginning to kick back and think that if there is a measurement for enjoyment, it has to be how good you feel riding the Heritage. It is like the whole experience of riding in the USA for the fi rst time; it was an overload of iconic names and places linked to almost every bit of music, culture, maps and emotion in one big hit. Epic has to be somewhere on an enjoyment scale.
Even the range topping $33,995 Heritage Classic is actually seriously great value, offering the new technology in a touring platform and placed just under the Road King in the dollar stakes (and just as importantly the weight stakes). Riding it, I think I know where I would be directing myself let alone a bunch of mates.
You, and I mean YOU, have to ride the Heritage. The combination of wheel and tyre size will mean from now on luxury doesn’t mean you won’t be able to keep up. Okay I would like another disc on the front
$31,750
and I really do prefer the chrome wheels and brighter engine of the Deluxe, but the extra $4,000 dollars over a 107 Deluxe gets a great deal of bang and bling. The attention to detail is hallmark Milwaukee. Placing the Heritage Classic 114 above 11 other outstanding Softail offerings only says more about me than trying to organise the range into any meaningful hierarchy.
I am happy to admit that for many other riders, there is only one universe, inhabited by just
one species and one style of American V-Twin transport. Harley-Davidson. And that style is on the move, perhaps even into some of those parallel universes. The Motor Company won’t be happy to just kick back and relax after the effort that went into the Softail range in all of its updated glory; there are another ninetysome models to come in the next nine years. Sample this new Softail range; our universe is still full of surprises. D
•
•
• Neck, waist and wrists adjustments
• Anti-floating sleeve adjustment
• Jacket-trousers fastening system
• Elastic and soft inserts on wrists
• Soft insert on neck
• QuickDry fabric
• Mesh fabric inserts
• Removable composite protectors
• Liner in breathable and perforated Sanitized
• Perforated fabric
• Removable wind proof liner
• Mens Sizes: 44-60
• Ladies Sizes: 40-48
•
Yep, we’re going for another 11day South Island tour in NZ with the supreme, Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ people. We had planned to give NZ a rest next year but couldn’t resist the temptation to head back. There’s just so much to see and so many unbelievably amazing roads to be ridden on a motorcycle! So, I cannot wait to see you there for this stunning guided tour. Trust me, you’ll have a euphoric tour!
Cheers, Stuart.
TRAVEL
WHEN: 17-27 FEBRUARY 2018
Start/Finish: Christchurch NZ
How to book: Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz +64 9473 9404 info@ paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz
Price: From NZ$8,390 (based on share-twin)
WHAT’S INCLUDED
Motorcycle of your choice (mostly BMW’s)
Panniers and top box
Soft lift out luggage bags
Motorcycle Insurance
Good quality accommodation
Welcome drinks and farewell dinner
Guide on a motorcycle Guide in a support vehicle
Tour booklet with route and maps
Airport transfers
NOT INCLUDED
Meals and drinks - except welcome and farewell dinners
Fuel
Airfares
Personal travel insurance
BONUS
Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ Cap Milford Sound Cruise, South Island, NZ
Visit to the Burt Munro ‘World’s Fastest Indian’ & ‘Motorcycle Mecca’ collections in Invercargill
ITINERARY
DAY 1
Christchurch to Hanmer Springs, 134km: Leave Christchurch and head north along the Coast Road to the thermal resort of Hanmer Springs - Enjoy the rolling Canterbury Plains and see Frog Rock along the
way. Set in a basin of forest clad mountains and home to natural hot springs, Hamner Springs is where you can soak, relax and get in the holiday mood.
DAY 2
Hanmer Springs to Punakaiki, 260km: Ride the spectacular Lewis Pass - a fantastic scenic ride and an old Maori greenstone trail. Stop at Reefton, a historic gold mining town for lunch then head to Punakaiki on the wild West Coast. See Pancake Rocks, incredible rock formations and blowholes were 30 million years in the making.
*Overseas model with optional accessories shown.
DAY 3
Punakaiki to Franz Josef Glacier, 216km: The West Coast road looks towards the Tasman Sea on the right and Southern Alps on the left. Known as ‘The Ice Run’, this road provides superb riding. The glaciers are an awe inspiring spectacle, amazing seen from the ground, and even more stunning from above. A helicopter can take you on a trip you’ll never forget!
DAY 4
Franz Josef Glacier to Queenstown, 355km: Heading north on the Tasman coast road - wild and beautiful, we stop to sign a pebble on Bruce Bay - a Kiwi tradition! The scenery changes dramatically to native forest as we turn inland to cross the famous Haast Pass. Tumbling rivers, waterfalls and winding undulating riding. Again, the scenery changes as we enter central Otago and the Mount Aspiring National Park - we ride beside huge lakes with a background of snow capped mountains and cross the highest sealed road in New Zealand, the Crown Ranges and descend into the Adventure Capital of the World - Queenstown!
DAY 5
Free day. Explore Queenstown: Paragliding, jet boating, bungee jumping and white water rafting are just a few of the adventure activities that you can try in Queenstown. Or, you could take a ride along the ribbon of lakeside road to Glenorchy, visit a vineyard for lunch, or explore Arrowtown a historic gold mining town full of cafes and art galleries, site of Lord of the Rings filming.
DAY 6
Queenstown to Te Anau, 173 km: Take a short, but stunning ride to Te Anau and see Fiordland’s primeval landscapes. This is one of the few places on the planet the wilderness is still pristine. Waterfalls tumble hundreds of metres into forested valleys, the mirror surfaces of the fiords reflect the majestic towering mountains where the word ‘silence’ takes on a different meaning.
DAY 7
Te Anau to Milford Sound to Te Anau, 110km each way: Ride along the shores of Lake Te Anau, through the famous Homer tunnel, and down to Milford Sound. The mountainous views on the road to Milford are almost as impressive as the Fiord itself. Keep an eye out for kea, a cheeky alpine parrot with a taste for rubber and plastic. Your cruise around Milford Sound is included.
DAY 8
waiting to be explored
DAY 10
Te Anau to Dunedin, 320km: Today’s route is a curvaceous ride that winds through the Southern Scenic Route to the very Scottish city of Dunedin. Victorian architecture and the divine Otago Peninsula makes this a particularly attractive place to visit. We travel via Invercargill for the chance to visit the World’s Fastest Indian collection and also Motorcycle Mecca, the finest collection of classic motorcycles in the Southern Hemisphere.
DAY 9
Free day. Explore Dunedin: Dunedin is the heritage and wilderness capital of New Zealand. You can choose to explore the city or ride out to the Otago Peninsula to see albatross and yelloweyed penguins. The Peninsula has winding roads with stunning coastal
Dunedin to Tekapo, 434km: Leave Dunedin for a great ride over the Maungatua Ranges. The area is typical of the dry Maniototo region - sparse, tussock clad, rolling hills. Stop at Cromwell the ‘fruit bowl of New Zealand’. Then take on the Lindis Pass, the saddle with alpine landscape between Lindis Valley and the Ahuriri River to Lake Tekapo.
DAY 11
Tekapo to Christchurch, 274km: Lake Tekapo offers breath taking views of Mt Cook, New Zealand’s tallest mountain. At the Church of the Good Shepherd, admire the bronze statue of a sheep dog and views of the turquoise lake. Ride on to Christchurch via Burkes Pass, Mount Hutt and the Canterbury plains. Arrive in Christchurch and we relive our tour, say our goodbyes and make plans to return over a farewell meal! D
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The modular design enables an effortless swap from the standard single-intensity relay to our dual-intensity DataDim™ Controller.
the oberon – Colong historic stock route to Yerranderie
Words BoB WozGa Photos BoB WozGa and rod Pedemont.
Five men leisurely sit by the dancing flames of a campfire, legs outstretched, two sipping beer, two sipping cider and one with a glass of red, watching grazing wallabies through the haze of the smoking fire. The kids of today wouldn’t believe how we used to travel in our day.
Having travelled to the valley with two adventure bikes, a 4x4, a tradies’ ute and an old Corolla, talk starts of the trek coming into Yerranderie. Of how narrow the road is in parts, the loose gravel, tight bends, fine dust and how we were all surprised at how long it actually took us to get here – two hours from Oberon, the last
60km being the slowest and needing the most concentration; and how it was all well worth the effort. With an extra drink, we began to tell a mate’s son who was also with us that in our younger years, these roads were commonly negotiated with two wheel drives and road bikes that had only ever been slightly modified to cater for
more rugged roads. We were young and indestructible, our bikes and cars were similarly indestructible. “Back in my day we used to take the Renault, Escort and Datto 180s through dirt tracks all through the Blue Mountains and Kangaroo Valley. The Honda CB250 got us where we wanted to go. If the river was too deep, we picked up the bike and carried it through the water, muffler hissing and steaming, scaring off the crocs that came too close.” The young ones just wouldn’t believe us these days.
Yerranderie is a ghost town in the top reaches of Lake Burragorang which feeds Warragamba Dam. It was once a silver mining town with 2000 people. The mines were worked from around 1898 until 1928. As a town, Yerranderie was gazetted in 1907 and the post office closed in 1958 due to the construction of Warragamba Dam. It was only about 45km to Camden and the silver ore was carted to what was once Camden railway station via Nattai and The Oaks to be transported to Sydney for refining. The original road from Nattai is now under water and access to the town is along the Oberon - Colong Stock Route. Which isn’t a bad thing. The road is fantastic and you really are in the wilderness when you’re venturing out there.
Having stumbled across a map of the Oberon – Colong Stock Route while looking at Google Earth for a work project, then doing some research on the area it looked like a great abandoned settlement to explore.
So, having set a date, the usual suspects were messaged. “Going to Yerranderie on such and such a date. Meet at DJ’s café in Oberon at 10am Saturday morning. Never been there but it looks interesting on Google maps. See you then.”
So, there it all starts.
After a faultless ride through the Blue Mountains, cruising through Lowther and Hampton basking in the scenery while gliding along the ridge line I come into Oberon. Oberon is striking in two distinct ways. Firstly, there are no golden arches in the town, but there is a giant rainbow trout in the grounds of a motel. Secondly it has a Twin Peaks atmosphere to it - country town in the mountains, friendly people, trout fi shing, cold weather, snow in the winter, giant fi r trees, timber mill, logging trucks and darn fi ne coffee in the café.
Although I didn’t see any donuts, I’m glad they don’t have anyone wrapped in plastic at the lake. Unless they do and I didn’t notice.
Walking to the café, I spot Greg’s KLR parked beside Rod’s Corolla on the main street. It’s good to have a car as backup sometimes and you would be surprised the places where Rod gets his Corolla. After a long ride on a brisk morning, coffee and a hamburger does wonders for your soul. Chris, Adam and Phil arrive soon after and it’s not long before we’re all fed, our tanks are refilled and we head out. Goldenleafed poplar trees create a guard of honour as we ride out of town toward Shooters Hill and the road ahead rolls through grasslands and into pine forests. I keep an eye out for signs of pine mushrooms to cook for dinner, though this autumn may have been too dry for them to sprout out yet. Hmm maybe next time.
Turning off at Mt Werong, we ride past the penitentiary which reminds me of Stalag 13 – a prison camp in the middle of pine forest - the road soon changes from tar to gravel and we stop to regroup at a roadside bay and the start of the Oberon-Colong Historic Stock Route. 60 kilometres of dirt road to go, couldn’t take more than 45minutes to get there… but
we thought wrong. The sign clearly states the remoteness of the area and you really do need to be prepared with provisions when heading out. There are four creek crossings that were easy. After a decent rain they would make it hard for a two wheeled drive to get through, though. There are a couple of other camping spots along this road that will need to be explored on a later trip. The road is in pretty good condition and varies from wide straight stretches to narrow windy bits with no barriers to stop you falling off the edge. This does make it awkward for those that like to photograph things they see out the corner of their eye. The views through the trees are fantastic. It’s also why it’s so important to regroup every so often to ensure that no one in the group has fallen behind, or fallen off for that matter. There are a couple of spots where the road is fine dust and as a car comes past you lose vision in the dust and have to pull over ‘till it settles. Past the last bend, the bikes coast into the ghost town, through dusty goggles, Rod’s Corolla has changed colour from white to tan and I’m still surprised he got it there. Time has stood still here and the main street still has the original general store, post office and miners’ hut. A little further along is the Ranger’s hut where your camping fees are paid. National Parks has done a wonderful job of maintaining this place. Relics of a by- gone era are spread through the buildings and easy walks are sign posted to explore the abandoned Colong Mine and Silver Peak Mine. It always amazes me that not only did people make a living, brought heavy machinery and built a town in these remote places but someone rambled through the bush looking for gold here in the first place.
There are two camping grounds. A free camping ground just out of town with very basic facilities and one in the private town. The private town has reasonable sized camping ground with fire pits, rustic picnic tables and National Parks have supplied some fire wood. Toilets, hot showers and a kitchenette have also been provided.
Just another thing
Yerranderie is owned and run by NPWS these days, but the credit for saving it and setting it up originally goes to the wonderful and determined Valerie Lhuede. I have not kept up with news of her, and I assume she passed the town to the NWPS when she was no longer capable of running it, but she deserves to be remembered. I’m disappointed that she doesn’t get a mention on the fact sheet for Yerranderie. And a warning: many mosquitoes live in Yerranderie. Many, many…
Camping fees are $14 per person and you can also opt to stay in one of the huts – National Parks has the pricing. You would really need to spend three days in this town to get the most out of it. It’s a good full days’ journey just to get here and the same to get out. There are a number of tracks to explore on foot through the abandoned mines, buildings and to lookouts. There were also a few tracks off the main road that beckoned me to a return trip.
The Oberon-Colong Historic Route is a fantastic track to tackle on a bike. Road conditions can vary. On the return leg, Greg and I spoke to a couple of riders at the Hampton Hotel and were told the road had been recently graded. After a big rain, the road deteriorates so the trip needs a bit of planning. Road conditions can be confirmed by calling the rangers on (02) 4659 6165).
If some of your friends are not into bikes, get them to tag along in their cars as “support” (as in, beer carriers! Ed). Chances are, after they have watched you ride in and seen how much fun you had, they’ll want to get bikes themselves.
As we sit by the crackling fire telling young Adam of our days driving on dirt roads with sedans and road bikes, knowing he probably won’t believe us, I wonder if listening to stories from old miners and bullock drivers would get the same reaction from us, in turn. Tall stories or confessions from mad men? D
YAMAHA MT-10 SP
Shut up and take my money!
WORDS STUART PHOTOS NICK WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY
ILOVED THE YAMAHA MT-10 when it was first released about a year ago but I have just ridden the SP version and you can take my money, I’m sold! I nearly feel lost for words but let’s see if I can write something without giggling too much like a schoolgirl.
As you can tell, the SP version has some extra special parts fi tted to it, the most obvious being the Ohlins suspension. It is the electronic racing Ohlins from the R1-M so it’s infi nitely adjustable. Many of you may fi nd it a bit hard on its standard settings, as did I. You can soften things off when you delve into the extensive suspension menu; you can then easily switch through your preset adjustments while riding, so you can have one setting for the racetrack, one for spirited riding and one for comfort (for example). You can also set the suspension to work things out for itself in the ‘Auto’ modes, but for the road I set up the ‘M-3’ mode to offer just enough damping for the twisties, yet enough comfort for some rough, boring straights. Also, with a very short (1400mm) wheelbase for such a powerful motorcycle, turn-in is sharp and fast and front tyre wear is minimised quite often as you can imagine! The rear tyre, however, gets punished and will not last too long at all. I suggest setting up an account with your local tyre supplier. That is the reason you buy a motorcycle like this, though – to have your eyes touching the back of your skull and the rubber tearing off the rear tyre!
If you want a bike that accelerates faster than a cut cat and will leave you breathless, then this is
bike test
the one. There’s probably only one other naked bike that does this on the market, and that’s the KTM 1290 Superduke R. Twist the right wrist, and calling the response intense is
being very mild indeed. I did get to meet up with a mate who owns the standard version of the MT-10, and riding both bikes back-to-back made it easy to feel the differences.
I actually went as far as asking Yamaha if the SP version comes standard with more power - it was definitely much faster than my mate’s bike. Yamaha said it has the same power, so maybe the SP bike I was riding had been run in better?
I’m sure that if I owned an SP I would soon be on the front page of the newspaper and my new home would be one of those with bars on the windows and guard towers on the corners, but that’s the appeal of the MT-10SP. It makes you feel free, makes you feel a bit naughty… just don’t get caught. The other great thing about this in-line four is the
uneven 270-180-90-180 firing order which makes the SP sound like a V4. Get some freer flowing tunes coming out of the exhaust and boy will it sound tough!
Ergonomics are very comfortable and I’ve said before that the MT-10 would make a great tourer. This goes for the SP version as well; it’s essentially the same, bar the material on the seat. Rumours are that Yamaha will release a touring version of the MT-10 in the near future. All you really need to make the SP a tourer is the accessory screen, topbox and/or the panniers and you’re set. Also,
that little hump in the seat is well and truly welcome; it could even do with being a little larger as the acceleration is so intense that this little hump stops you from flying off the back like Superman!
The SP comes in one colour only – silver with blue highlights, or “Silver Blu Carbon” as Yamaha call it. During my time with the SP, a number of onlookers said they love the blue wheels. One particularly over-excited bloke said, “Oh wow, man, they really pop!” I’m sure he was popping something, that’s for sure, but they do look the biz. Styling might be a little polarising: you’ll
either love it, or hate it. The robotlike “Dark Side of Japan” (as Yamaha calls it) gives the SP a mass-forward aggressive appearance. The MT range of Yamahas seem to all be heading down this robot-like look and judging by recent sales of the MT-07, MT-09 and MT-10 it seems to be working. The SP version also gets the fullcolour TFT dash from the R1-M. Everything that can be looked up or adjusted is done through this dash. It’s like having an interactive iPad on a motorcycle. You can also set the dash up into one of two confi gurations with either a light or dark background – it’s your call.
Braking is slightly different on the SP with the front calipers being from the R1. They provide amazing levels of stopping power. There’s also the three stage traction control and three power modes, assist and slipper clutch and the great quickshifter (upshifts only). Add in cruise control (standard) and the SP is feature packed for the price. Accessories are extensive and will cover just about anyone’s taste. From performance pieces and bling to touring accessories, Yamaha has thought of it.
Unless you’re a racer or a trackday nut and really need something like the R1-M which retails for $31,999, put ten grand back in your pocket and you have the naked equivalent – the SP! The Yamaha MT-10 SP will give you smiles for miles and even have you dreaming of nothing else during your sleep. It really is that good. So shut up and take my money. I want one! D
SPECS
PRICE: $21,499 (plus on-road charges)
WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance
SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months
ENGINE: Liquid-cooled in-line four cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder
BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 8.22 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 206km
COLOURS: Silver Blu Carbon
VERDICT: TAKE IT! TAKE IT NOW!
YAMAHA MT-10 SP
That little hump does a lot!
797 DUCATI MONSTER
Urbane creature feature
WORDS STUART PHOTOS HALF LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHIC
THE DUCATI MONSTER dynasty continues with the new 797 version.
It takes the engine from the popular Scrambler, the fuel tank and LED headlight from big brother 1200, and the sexy trellis frame that Monsters have long been known for to really set off the looks.
Apart from the Oz-only LAMS 659 version, the 797 marks the entry into the Monster dynasty, but I’m not so sure that you’ll think of the 797 as a “Monster” after riding it. We can thank Euro 4 compliance for that. The engine can’t muster the power and excitement we have come to expect from the Monster with its 803cc capacity. Ride a non-Euro 4 compliant Scrambler (which has essentially the same 803cc engine) and you instantly notice the difference in acceleration.
Handling is neutral and very manageable. Ducati call the 797, “undemanding fun” and while I can see this in some fashion, the exciting “fun factor” of performance just isn’t there. Putting this aside, the 797 soaks up bumps well enough although it could do with a little more rear preload over the standard setting to sharpen it up just a bit.
Swinging a leg over the 797 reveals its reasonable 805mm seat height which makes it easy enough to manage. Shorter riders will be relieved to know that there is an optional lower seat that shaves off a further 20mm, while taller riders can opt for the Comfort seat, providing an added 20mm and increased… well… comfort. While we’re on the subject of ergonomics, the seat to peg height is reasonable for most leg lengths and the reach and width of the bar is quite nice.
Braking is a bit of overkill for the limited power from the engine, but I’m not complaining. I love a set of big 320mm discs and radial mounted four piston calipers upfront. I just think it is more usual to put small brakes on a lower powered motorcycle; well done Ducati for putting these amazing brakes on a ‘lower spec’ machine. Bosch ABS is standard and of course works well.
Pricing might keep some buyers away, at $13,790 plus on roads for the Red and two hundred more for the White/ Dark versions this is on the high side of the mid-sized market. For a little more ($600) you can get the 797+
which comes with a small flyscreen and rear set cowl.
As with all Ducatis the range of accessories is extensive and will suit most tastes. To simplify things Ducati also offers “accessory packages”; an Urban package (mirrors and disc lock) or a Sport package which has a carbon ignition switch cover, underseat number plate holder, threaded stem indicators and an adhesive carbon tank protector.
The Ducati Monster 797 feels light, compact and manageable. Considering that I hardly had to think about the bike while riding this baby Duc, I’d say it is approachable and easy to handle for any rider. D
SPECS
DUCATI MONSTER 797
PRICE: $13,790 (plus on-road charges)
WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance
SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 12,000km or 12 months
ENGINE: Air-cooled L-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, 2 valves per cylinder
BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 245mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 6.36 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 259km
COLOURS: Ducati Red, Star White Silk, Dark Stealth
VERDICT: EURO NOT-4-US
LAUNCH TEAROUTMAP#58
SNUGGLE IN
THIS IS A SHORT BUT scenic route south of Hobart with lots to do along the way. Depending on how much you want to see and do off the bike it can be an all-day long ride.
HOBART
The capital of Tassie, Hobart is a busy hub of activity. There’s loads to do and if you like food (who doesn’t!) there are many award-winning places to eat. Try to stay away from the obvious tourist traps, though. The food can be quite ordinary.
There are several motorcycle hire businesses in Hobart, so a fly in, fly out ride is possible. The other option is to arrive in Devonport after catching the Spirit of Tasmania across the Bass Strait and then making your way south to Hobart.
SANDY BAY
A suburb of Hobart that is centre
South of Hobart, TAS
WORDS STUART PHOTOS VARIOUS
to a fi shing community - think, amazing seafood!
TAROONA
A way point to make sure you’re on the right track!
KINGSTON BEACH
Located on the Derwent River at the mouth of Browns Rivulet, Kingston Beach was originally known as Browns River Beach in the 1850s. A very pretty location, Kingston Beach is a regularly photographed spot.
HOWDEN
A relatively isolated location, if you want to “get away from it all”, Howden is a good start.
MARGATE
A small seaside town on the Channel Highway. Mostly a way point for this ride as you ride straight south towards Bruny Island.
ELECTRONA
The name Electrona is based on the Carbide Works which were established in 1909. Around 1908, James Gillies began negotiations with the State government to permit the construction of a Hydroelectric Power Scheme at Tasmania’s Great Lake, for the purpose of providing power for his newly patented zinc smelting process and a calcium carbide factory. Construction of the factory commenced in the vicinity of Snug, Tasmania in 1917, and shortly after the end of World War One the Electrona Carbide Works began production of carbide using lime (from limestone) and coke with electric arc furnaces. The carbide was used in the manufacture of acetylene gas. Gillies chose the name Electrona because of the electricity and electrodes used for smelting.
www.hemamaps.com.au
Distance – 145km
Fuel – Hobart, Huonville (you should only need to fill up once, in Hobart, for just about any bike.)
Head south-east out of Hobart on Sandy Bay Road which soon turns into the Channel Highway. Continue on into Kingston where you need to turn left onto Roslyn Ave and follow it down through Blackmans Bay where the road turns to Brightwater Road. Continue on down and around through Howden all the way back to the T-intersection at Channel Hwy and turn left.
From here you will ride the Channel Hwy all the way down to Charlotte Cove and around to Huonville. Turn right onto Huon Hwy and follow around eleven kilometres and turn left onto Huon Road. Ride about four kilometres and turn left onto Huon Road and into Longley.
From here, follow Huon road all the way back into Hobart and you’re done.
TEAR-OUT MAP #58
LOWER SNUG
As you approach Lower Snug from Electrona there is a right turn to the beautiful Snug Falls. Take Snug Tiers Road and around a kilometre in, veer left on Snug Falls Road. There is a carpark just before the Snug Falls Track which is a two kilometre return walking track to the Falls. They are particularly spectacular after heavy rain.
WOODBRIDGE
Sleepy Woodbridge is one of the prettiest little towns on the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, overlooking Peppermint Bay and the northern end of Bruny Island, Woodbridge is a scenic hotspot for local produce and craft.
CHARLOTTE COVE
A way point for this ride as you make your way back north alongside the Huon River.
CYGNET
As you leave the scenic edge of Kangaroo Bay you head through Cygnet which has a couple of nice places to eat. A couple of kilometres out of town, Pagan Cider Cellar Door is quite nice with a variety of berry flavoured ciders.
HUONVILLE
Get some fuel if you need it, but definitely check out Cat’s Tongue Chocolatier or Banjo’s Bakery for some great sweet treats.
LONGLEY
This particular section of road is used for the Targa Tasmania rally so it’s time to heat up the edge of those tyres before you roll back into Hobart. D
Special Feature SUMMERGEAR
ICOOL DOWN FOR SUMMER
COMPILED BY STUART
T’S GETTING TIME to play it cool as the temperature rises. Riding a motorcycle can be a hot experience during the warmer months, and dressing to not only look cool, but actually BE cool is paramount! We contacted the suppliers of cool summer gear and here is what they have to offer you to keep your cool in the warmer riding months. I suspect you’ll be amazed at just how much gear is available, and you’re sure to find just what you need to be a cool cat.
MCLEOD ACCESSORIES
www.mcleodaccess.com.au
DRIRIDER CLIMATE CONTROL
PRO 4 JACKET - $349.95
Polyester outer shell made from 600D with 900D reinforced shoulders/ elbows and 500D high tenacity mesh throughout. Also comes with a removable waterproof and breathable
liner and a removable 85-gram thermal liner. Other features include CE armour and a hi density foam back pad, shock absorbing air hump with airflow channels, shoulder air vents, mesh comfort lining, action stretch in shoulders and elbows, arm and waist adjusters, 2 external and 2 inner pockets + mobile pocket, reflective printing and a waist connection zip. Available in Men’s, Black/Black XS
A longer touring styled vented jacket made from Maxtex polyester 600D, full flow mesh and 1000D reinforced shoulders and elbows. Comes with a removable Reissa waterproof and breathable liner, CE armour and a hi
density foam back pad, safety stitching with Coats thread, action stretch in shoulders and elbows, mesh comfort lining, dual arm, hip and waist adjusters, 3 external pockets, 2 inner pockets + mobile pocket, reflective printing, waist connection zip and Max zippers. Available in Men’s: Black/White/Grey S – 8XL, Grey/White/Black S – 6XL and Ladies; Black/White/Grey 6 – 22, Grey/White/Black 8 – 18.
STREET GLOVES - $69.95
Made from goat skin, two-way stretch fabric and 3D Mesh with a synthetic suede reinforced palm for improved grip and abrasion resistance. Features
also include an ergonomic knuckle protector, shock absorbing pads on palm and fingers, ergonomic carbon palm slider, reinforced outer edge of pinkie, accordion stretch inserts, neoprene wrist cuff with shock absorbing padding and Velcro wrist closure. Available colours; Black/ White/Red, Black/Black and sizes: S – 4XL.
SUMMERTIME
GLOVES - $99.95
Made from leather and abrasion resistant mesh with Nyspan on fingers for dexterity. Features a CE knuckle protector, airgel palm pad, double layer palm, Tricot comfort liner, Smart-
tip forefinger and thumb, Neoprene comfort cuff and Velcro closure. Available colours: Black or Coffee and sizes S – 2XL.
AIRRIDE 4 JACKET - $199.95
Made from Maxtex 600D polyester and abrasion resistant mesh with a Reissa waterproof and breathable removable liner, CE armour and a hi density back protector, mesh comfort liner, power
stretch in shoulders, chest and elbows, pre-curved arms, Neoprene stretch comfort collar, arm and waist adjusters, 2 outer, 2 inner pockets, connection zip for pants and available in 10 colours men’s sizes from XS – 8XL and 4 ladies colours from sizes 6 – 22.
CASSONS
DAINESE - CITY GUARD
JACKET - $379.95
Full mesh jacket with Wave G back protector, chest protection and integrated composite protectors. Fully removable protectors. Available in Black and sizes S – XL.
AIR FLUX TEX D1
JACKET - $299.95
Thanks to the latest generation fabrics, Boomerang and Quick Dry (D-Stone for the men’s), the Air Flux takes lightness to new levels. The perforated mesh provides improved
air circulation to the body and the fact that the jacket has numerous adjustments means it adapts perfectly to the rider’s body when in motion. Active safety is provided by certified, removable, composite protectors on the shoulders and elbows while strategically positioned, reflective inserts provide passive safety. To round off the technical characteristics, the jacket has been designed to accommodate the G1 or G2 back protector. Available in both Men’s and Ladies’ versions.
AIRFRAME UNISEX GLOVES - $89.95
A short glove with a sporty look and great warm-weather performance, the Air Frame is constructed of a breathable, elasticated fabric, with perforated mesh on the fingers and back. Soft inserts are placed at the knuckles and the sides of the palm, and the index finger features Dainese Smart Touch technology. Available in sizes 3XS – 2XL.
SCORPION - SAVANNAH
JACKET - $149.95
protector, removable waterproof liner, 4 external and 2 internal pockets, adjustable waist, wrist cuffs with Velcro tabs and available in Men’s XS – 4XL and Ladies XS – XL.
BULL-IT - CARBON 17 JACKET - $349.95
The Carbon 17 jacket is a 13oz twill jet black denim jacket with matching black hood.
A wick away mesh liner is included and Covec’s SR6 liner keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Covec elbow and shoulder armour are standard, with a back-protector pocket to fit an optional Covec back protector. Also has a water-repellent finish.
RJAYS - SWIFT II
JACKET - $169.95
A mesh summer jacket with CE approved body armour and back
The latest air mesh summer jacket from Rjays includes brand new styling, super protective heavy duty ballistic nylon with large air mesh panels, removable waterproof breathable liner, removable CE approved elbow, shoulder and back
armour, 2 external pockets, 1 internal, adjustable waist and wrist cuffs with Velcro tabs and adjustable bicep and forearm fasteners. Available in four men’s colours and sizes XS – 4XL and two ladies colours and sizes XS – 2XL.
MACH 6 III GLOVES - $59.95
The new Mach 6 III glove is an awesome fitting summer glove. It has a completely new design with ouitstanding comfort to help keep you cool on those hot and humid days. Available in men’s Black, Black/Hi-viz XS – 3XL and ladies Black, Black/Pink XS – XL.
LINK INTERNATIONAL www.linkint.com.au
MACNA - RUSH JACKET - $229.95
The Rush is a short classic style jacket ready for your summer rides in and around town with a great custom/ urban style. 2 colour options – Black or Black/ grey, Men’s sizes S – 4XL and Ladies’ sizes XS – 2XL.
DRY COOLING VEST
- $249.95
Simply load 500ml of tap water into the vest for up to 3 days of cooling. The heat from the body and surrounding air make the water inside the vest vaporise. That causes the surface and your skin to cool down in a surprisingly dry way before you become sweaty. Make summer riding enjoyable!
CATCH GLOVES - $89.95
When the heat is on, the Macna Catch gloves provide cool comfort and secure protection. Made from A grade leather and nylon mesh construction. Available in black only – men’s sizes S – 3XL.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON
www.harley-davidson.com.au
MEN’S SKULL MESH
JACKET - $198 - $221
A lightweight functional jacket that features reinforced shoulders and elbows with body armour pockets. Skull graphics in black translate to subtle, low-key style. 100% polyester mesh with polyester mesh body and sleeve lining and lightly padded back
waist, action back, adjustable waist tabs. 3M Scotchlite refl ective piping for increased visibility. Available in sizes S – 5XL.
MEN’S CENTERLINE FULLFINGER GLOVES - $79
The Centerline Full-Finger glove has vented fi ngers for increased airfl ow when you’re cruisin’ down the highway. 95% nylon and 5% spandex with polyester mesh fourchettes and leather palm and fi ngertips. Available in sizes S – 3XL.
WOMEN’S CALLAHAN MESH
JACKET - $174 - $190
A crisp, white jacket for warmweather riding, this lightweight, textile motorcycle jacket includes
body armour pockets and refl ective material. For a punch of contrast, look to the shoulders, back yoke, and sides. Available in sizes XS – 2XL and 1W – 3W.
WOMEN’S REVEAUX MESH GLOVES - $71
Reveaux Mesh gloves powered by Coolcore technology offer yearround comfort through thermal regulation. The innovative chemicalfree Coolcore fabric expertly manages heat and moisture through three distinct functions: moisture wicking (to absorb sweat away from skin), moisture circulation (the fabric allows air to circulate), and regulated evaporation (as air circulates, moisture is released). It all works together to help keep you cool and comfortable. Available in sizes XS – XL.
INNOTESCO
www.innotesco.com.au
RUKKA - 4AIR JACKET/PANTS
- $1070 (JKT) $785 (PNT)
The 4Air suit opens up the possibility to wear the extremely air
permeable outer shell or the water and windproof inner jacket on its own, or both together, depending on the application and the weather. Outer jacket and outer trousers of the 4Air let the wind reach down to the skin almost unobstructed thanks to the knitted Cordura AFT. Passive safety is ensured by the high abrasion resistance of Cordura AFT, AFT+ and the CE-certifi ed Rukka D3O Air joint protectors.
AIRALL JACKET/PANTS - $515
(JKT) $425 (PNT)
Rukka AirAll from the AirPower collection is made of extraordinary wide-meshed, extremely air permeable Cordura AFT. The wind can get through the wide mesh with little resistance, cooling the body. Passive safety is ensured by the high abrasion resistance of Cordura AFT and of AFT+, by the reinforcement of exposed zones and due to the CE certifi ed Rukka D3O air joint protectors.
AFT SUMMER GLOVES - $130
Low weight, excellent feel and maximum breathability without compromising safety – that was the
development specifi cation for the Rukka “AFT” gloves. The result is as impressive as it is convincing. Rukka AFT gloves are made of high-quality leather, air permeable knitwear and skin friendly neoprene – a combination that ensures maximum breathability, perfect fi t and high abrasion resistance.
AIRI GLOVES (LADIES) - $115
Rukka Airi gloves are distinguished by great protection, outstanding breathability, fi rst rate tactile feedback and intricate details, breathable and abrasion resistant and therefore ensure perfect fi t, good ventilation and passive safety.
INDIAN MOTORCYCLE
www.indianmotorcycle.com.au
FREEWAY JACKET - $595
Black leather sets the tone; subtle stripes and prominent Indian Motorcycle branding enhance the high-performance style. Integrated vents and a zip-in/out liner provide multi-season comfort and versatility.
Ret R o gloves - $85
These retro gloves deliver a sure, comfortable fit and outstanding protection.
l adies’ Ret R o jacket - $595
The name and styling say ‘retro’ but the materials, construction and features deliver premium performance. Multiple vents promote cooling airflow while the removable liner helps extend the riding season.
Ret R o Mesh Unisex gloves - $69
These retro gloves provide coverage and promote cooling airflow for the utmost comfort in warm weather.
a dvent UR e Moto
www.adventuremoto.com.au
k li M i nd U ction j acket - $525
The Induction Jacket is a fullyventilated mesh jacket without compromising the protective qualities found typically in heavier textile jackets. Constructed with proprietary Klim Karbonite mesh technology which yields a final highly-flexible material that is up to 750% stronger than polyesters used by other brands. The induction Jacket includes impact protection technology with integrated D3O armour in the elbows and shoulders.
Fo R ce F ield Body aRM o UR technical B ase laye R sho Rt sleeve shi Rt - $75
The Forcefield Base Layer range has been created using BeCool, the first polyamide fibre with integrated airflow control, a function that maintains body temperature during
all types of riding. It acts like a fan forcing the skins hot and humid air towards the outer layer of the fabric while allowing cool and dry air to circulate from the outside onto the surface of the skin to ensure the body’s core temperature is constantly maintained.
Moto- s kiveez co M p R ession R iding sock with a loe - $40 Wearing Moto-Skiveez compression riding socks during long rides will help your lower legs feel more comfortable and supported. These innovative socks apply light compression to the calf and foot to help alleviate lower limb swelling that is associated with long-distance motorcycle riding.
k li M Badlands jacket - $1395
The Badlands Jacket provides you with an onslaught of full-tech D3O armour, Goretex fabrics and a massively intelligent layout of pocket storage, ventilation, reflective and abrasion-resistant systems. Tough as hell and able to withstand inspired adventure rides throughout Australia.
Klim Carlsbad ja CK et - $795
The Klim Carlsbad jacket was conceived of the need for highly mobile, highly vented and minimised bulk adventure gear, all while maintaining Klim’s highest abrasion resistance and durability standards.
Held b i K er Fas H ion www.heldaustralia.com.au
Held Carese ii ja CK et (women) - $900
detailed back, the Desert glove also has a Velcro adjustment at cuffs, elasticated leather panels on back, thumb and fingers, perforated finger panels and sidewalls of fingers in lightweight mesh fabric, hard plastic knuckle protection covered with Superfabric and double leather on the palm. Available in Black
A full mesh constructed jacket, Flow 2 is produced for Ducati by Spidi. This jacket comes with ForceTech armour in the shoulders and elbows and is pocketed for a Warrior back
protector (sold separately). A pants to jacket loop is fitted in the back and there’s a Windout membrane windproof and water resistant detachable liner. Lightweight and extreme breathability make this jacket perfect for hot summer riding.
Made from a DuPont Cordura 500D outer with 3D air mesh panels in the back to promote air circulation, a Coolmax breathable mesh inner lining, removable Goretex 3-layer technology liner (can be used attached inside or over the jacket), air-vent zippers in front, back and arms, magnetic closure pockets double as air vents, 3 inner, 2 outer and 1 back pockets, soft collar, multiple adjustments and the exclusive Held cloverleaf Sas-tec
5% elastane), leather detailed back, Velcro adjustment at cuffs, air-vents on fingers, perforated finger side walls, hard plastic knuckle protection and Superfabric reinforcement on edge of the hand. Available in sizes 7 – 12 and colours – Black, Grey/ Black, Black/Grey/Red, Grey/Blue.
d u C ati
www.ducati.com.au
d u C ati Flow 2 t ex ja CK et (available in bot H male and F emale F ittings) - $379
d u C ati s ummer 2 gloves - $129
Manufactured by Spidi for Ducati, the Summer 2 gloves are short and aggressive-looking and made of 0.8mm cow leather combined with high resistance elastic fabric and microfiber inserts. These materials, together with the special air intakes integrated in the polyurethane protections, make the Summer 2 an ideal pair of gloves even in the hottest summer days.
d u C ati Corse City boots (s H ort) - $249
The sporty, winning look of the
Organise your next Mediterranean or European bike shipment with Dave at Get Routed... Your bike is our priority.
Summer gear
Ducati Corse City low boots is evidence of the attentive development work done together with TCX. Comfort and CEcertified protection are guaranteed both for city use and short range tourist outings. The upper is a mix of chamois leather, “soft-
touch” microfiber fabric and mesh fabric. The structure is enriched by the insertion of numerous microinjections, including a threedimensional front slider. Dedicated to brand enthusiasts!
Ducati c ool Down
t echnical socks (black or white) - $29
Insulating, breathable Dryarn + X-Static technical socks with antibacterial and odour free silver fibre + Coolmax for better body temperature regulation.
Ducati c ity o pen
Face h elmet - $599 SFL (Super Fibre Laminate)
construction by Arai, this helmet is strong and lightweight. A Facial Contour System (FCS) foam spring support in the cheek
pad makes putting the helmet on easier, providing superior stability and comfort with minimal pressure. Plus: double D strapping, multi airflow vents and aerodynamic design.
Fice D a www.ficeda.com.au
i xon h elios jacket - $179.95
Highly ventilated thanks to mesh panels on front, back and sleeves. Waterproof, breathable and windproof with its removable insert with the tail of the jacket extended and padded, CE approved elbow and shoulder protectors, back pocket to welcome a CE certified back protector, classic collar, 2
external, 2 internal, 1 waterproof pockets and various adjustments
Available in sizes: XS - 4XL, colours: Black/white/red, Black/ bright yellow, Black/grey. Also available in Ladies’ (Helia).
Falco patrol boots - $199.95
Made from a leather and microsynth upper with an Air-Tech vented lining. Features also include a lace closure and removable elasticated gear-pad, air-cool patented ventilated sole and CE approval. Available in sizes: 39-46, colours: Black, Dark Brown, Camel. (39 only available in black)
i xon rs p istol hp gloves - $139.95
This short cuff glove is made from goat leather with a glued polyester jersey lining, palm reinforced with slider, flex leather on index, major and thumb, knuckle protector + protectors on index and major, ring finger and little finger attached and reinforced with leather and the index finger is fitted with Ixon’s Screen Touch System that allows smartphone use. Available in sizes: S – 3XL and colours: Black/ White, Black/White/Red, Black/ Bright Yellow. D
TaKe the eXcellent Triumph Street Twin platform and throw a bit of ‘dirtiness’ at it and wollah! You’ve got the new Street Scrambler. The idea of a “scrambler” is of a lightweight motorcycle equipped with rugged tyres and suspension designed for riding cross country or over unpaved ground. This is pretty much what you get with the Street Scrambler; there’s even the sexy look with high twin pipes and a lightweight bash plate. You might remember the previous Scrambler which was really no more than a dressed up Bonnie, but that’s not so anymore. Our test involved mainly bitumen riding, but I also took off onto a maintained trail that just happened to be wet and sandy with a layer of wet clay underneath… just for ‘fun’!
The Scrambler handled the dirty work very well, in fact I’d be quite happy to have it as an adventure bike with a mix of 80/20 - road to off-road riding. The one big bonus I see with the Scrambler is its weight distribution. Most adventure bikes have a bit of top heavy feeling about them whereas the Scrambler feels light and the weight is down low, despite it being 206kg (dry) which will be around 230kg or a just a touch less when wet. When you spell it out like that, the
Scrambler isn’t all that much lighter than a number of the big bore adventure bikes, but it feels much lighter.
Triumph ‘scramblerised’ the Scrambler by fitting longer rear shocks, a 19 inch front wheel with trusty Metzeler Tourance tyres, a wide handlebar, adventure style front pegs and a low seat. This delivers real capability and control on every type of road I encountered. The suspension travel will limit what you can do with this bike, but then again it’s not a full on adventure bike, is it?
The parallel twin engine is not overly powerful as such (not like the 1200) but it is a torquey engine and in the dirt that is great. Limiting your travels will be the 12 litre fuel tank. With some big distances between fuel stops when getting off the beaten track, and despite the quite good fuel economy, you’ll be looking to refill before the 248km range we achieved.
Braking is adequate enough with the single disc up front; the good thing, though, is that the ABS can be switched off. I find this to be essential in the dirt. To round off the electronics there’s a fly-by-wire throttle and switchable traction control – which again, needs to be turned off in the dirt to maximise the useability of the Scrambler.
The riding position is your typical sit-up-and-beg arrangement which is great for long distances, and the seat is quite comfy. The pillion seat can be interchanged with an aluminium rack. I really like the idea of this, making it easy to attach a seat- or roll-bag. You can also remove the pillion pegs and hangers if they’re not needed. My only concern is with those high pipes; fitting some throw-over panniers could be a pain.
A single dial instrument cluster holds quite a lot of info contained in the LCD screen.
Accessories seem to be endless with over 150 items to browse through, so making your Scrambler ‘yours’ is a great option to have.
The Triumph Street Scrambler has been designed to deliver a purposeful and beautiful style, with unique features and detailing. I reckon Triumph has cornered the scrambler market just perfectly. This bike does what it’s intended to do. D Attention
1. Oh no! It’s getting dirty! 2. Pillion seat can be interchanged for an aluminium rack
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 4.83 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 248km
COLOURS: Jet Black, Korosi Red/Frozen Silver, Matt Khaki Green
VERDICT: TRUE TO THE WORD
LAUNCH TIME TO ATTACK!
CONTINENTAL
STARTED producing motorcycle tyres in 1907 making them the second oldest manufacturer of hoops for bikes. They are now the third largest automotive/motorcycle Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) supplier in the world, so it’s hard to know why the brand is relatively unknown in Australia compared to some other brands. Importer Ron Angel Wholesale is out to change this. We already tested the amazing new Continental Road Attack 3 tyres in issue #56 but the Aussie importer, Ron Angel Wholesale invited us along to the official launch to get a more in depth view of the brand and the new tyre riding a variety of machines. A few years ago Continental invested heavily in chemists, technicians and high tech machinery. This has allowed them to offer a premium range of tyres that lead the way in many areas of motorcycle riding. Labels like Black Chilli, RainGrip, Traction Skin and so on are terms you may have heard of in connection with Conti tyres. There are a number of others which all combine to provide the rider with outstanding levels of performance, but of all of them, ‘Traction Skin’ is the
big one. You’re unlikely to find this on any other tyre. Traction Skin is, in a nutshell, a textured surface moulded into the tyre which eliminates greasy release agents. As a result, the tyre requires no run in period.
I have noticed this in the past; you can ride straight out of your driveway on a brand new set of Conti’s and ride as you normally would – no need to tippy toe your way around for the first few kays. I reckon this has to be the safest feature of any tyre on the market.
For the Road Attack 3, Continental focused heavily on improving wet weather grip. They also looked at improving the mileage, handling and warm up, but the performance in wet conditions is the biggest leap forward. This is a fi ne balance between getting it right and stuffi ng up performance. The more Silica you add, the better the wet performance and wear characteristics. Add in more Carbon Black and this gives maximum grip in the dry and a faster warmup. But, add in too much Carbon Black and you lose wet weather performance, so getting just the right chemical mix can take some working out – there’s more to tyres than we think!
To make this simple, look at a racing wet weather tyre – it contains masses of Silica and in the dry does not last very long. A racing slick contains masses of Carbon Black and is rubbish in the rain. Find that happy medium in the middle and you’ve got a great road tyre!
During the launch we didn’t get to do any serious wet weather riding, but I have already sampled the RA3 tyres in some heavy wet weather when we tested them previously.
Feedback is an essential part of any tyre – this gives you the confidence to lean over in a corner in any road condition. For the RA3, Conti call the carcass of the tyre ‘Zero Degree’; it has a zero degree belted steel carcass. This gives you the high levels of feedback and stability you want in a tyre, and also makes the tyre agile.
Combined with this is ‘MultiGrip’ which is tread that is seamless from the middle to the sides. There’s usually a noticeable difference when you transfer over from the harder middle compound to the softer side. Not with MultiGrip, which is seamless thanks to an advanced curing process.
Tyre profile has been optimised to provide easy turn in with just the right amount of flex to give the tyre stability and provide comfort. This too is a fine balance, as too stiff a tyre provides an unstable ride and too soft a tyre gives slow turn in and a vague feeling. Conti has got the balance bang on with the RA3. You can flick the bike fast into a corner and if the bitumen is a little rough, the carcass soaks it up.
The depth of the tread is something worth
mentioning. It is rather deep compared to just about any other sports touring tyre. This aids water drainage but it also gives greater tyre mileage. As I noted in my original review, I reckon you’re looking around 13,000km on most bikes. You could get more if you’re an ‘easier rider’ or less if you belt the throttle a bit harder. Tyre sizing offers a wide range, even for most of the adventure bikes with a 19 inch front / 18 inch rear. You can get a GT version for heavier tourers or if you want a little stiffer tyre. From the range of bikes we rode during the launch I really don’t see the need for the GT on anything other than any of the really heavy tourers. Fronts cost from $219.95 to $269.95 and rears are $259.95 to $369.95. The tyres are available from your local Continental motorcycle dealer or contact Ron Angel for your nearest dealer –Ph: 03 9464 3366 or email gsammut@ronangel.com.au . The Continental Road Attack 3s are at the top of the game. Grab a set and enjoy the ride. See www.ronangel. com.au for more. D
www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au
Vietlong
VIETNAM HUNG PHAN TOUR
Let’s go!
YOU’VE BEEN WAITING for it and here it is! Our next reader’s tour is to Vietnam and boy have we got a tour for you! We have an eleven day North Vietnam tour lined up with the experienced Vietlong Travel people. This tour will take in some of the most stunning sights and experiences there are
to see and do in Vietnam. (The route does contain some dirt roads but Stuart will help you through if need be. It isn’t overly challenging so don’t fret.) The Honda CRF250 is the perfect device to ride the route. We have also organised the days’ riding to be not overly long (although very visually appealing) so we can all
soak up the atmosphere and take plenty of photos. This ride is for solo riders; there is no facility for pillions.
We have organised two options for you to choose from. One is with fl ights, the other without. You can also choose for an additional price to have your own room each night.
THE IMPORTANT STUFF IS
Dates – 4-14 March 2018 (Arrive on Sat 3rd March, fly out 15 March
How to book
Vietlong Travel
Tel: (+84 4) 39766534
Email: sales@vietlongtravel.com www.vietlongtravel.com or www.vietnam-motorbiketour.com/
OPTION 1 – Without Flights
US$2310 per person
Inclusions:
• 11 days, 12 nights Vietnam private group tour sharing double/twin rooms at standard hotels plus homestay
www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au
• Private transfers for the airport pick-up and see-off
• 3-star hotels in Hanoi at start and finish of tour
• Motorbike (Honda CRF250)
• Helmet & riding gear (if needed)
• Gasoline on tour
• 2 English speaking guides
• 1 Mechanic
• Accommodation as indicated in the itinerary (based on twin or/and triple shared)
• Homestay permission
• Meals as indicated in the itinerary
• Entrance fees & Sightseeing fees
• Bottled water
• 1 coffee or 1 cold beer or 1 cold soft drink for every stopover on tour
• Government taxes
• Van to carry luggage
• Add $220US if you want your own room
OPTION 2 – With Flights
US$2950 per person
Inclusions:
• 11 days, 12 nights Vietnam private group tour sharing double/twin rooms at standard hotels plus homestay
• Private transfers for the airport pick-up and see-off
• 3-star hotels in Hanoi at start and finish of tour
• Motorbike (Honda CRF250)
• Helmet & riding gear (if needed)
• Gasoline on tour
• 2 English speaking guides
• 1 Mechanic
• Accommodation as indicated in the itinerary (based on twin or/and triple shared)
• Homestay permission
• Meals as indicated in the itinerary
• Entrance fees & Sightseeing fees
• Bottled water
• 1 Coffee or 1 cold beer or 1
cold soft drink for every stopover on tour
• Government taxes
• Van to carry luggage
• $220US if you want your own room
WITH FLIGHTS – arrive on Saturday 3rd March 2018
IS THAT GOOD VALUE OR WHAT? HERE’S THE ITINERARY
ARRIVAL: Saturday March 3 – Hanoi
LAY DAY: Sunday March 4 - Hanoi
DAY 1: Hanoi to Mai Chau (Hoa Binh)
DAY 2: Mai Chau to Phu Yen (Son La) Tribal Villages
DAY 3: Phu Yen to Than Uyen (Lai Chau)
DAY 4: Than Uyen to Sapa Villages (Lao Cai)
DAY 5: Sapa to Bac Ha (Lao Cai)
DAY 6: Bac Ha to Ha Giang City
DAY 7: Ha Giang to Dong Van (Ha Giang)
DAY 8: Dong Van to Bao Lac
DAY 9: Bao Lac to Ba Be Lake
DAY 10: Ba Be Lake to Hanoi
Departure day – Thursday
March 15: Hanoi D
On oUr way from the nearly unpronounceable town of Znojmo to the nearly pronounceable city of Brno on a minor country road in the Czech Republic, Nicki and I came across a clearly marked Road Closed sign.
A truck pulled up alongside, the driver wound down his window, and mimed that we should proceed - he seemed insistent, so on we rode. After a couple of kilometres, both sides of the road had been excavated. We carried on cautiously, thinking that perhaps it wasn’t quite right to be there, but the sight of an oncoming car made it seem legitimate.
Legitimate, that is until the car’s roof lights flashed blue and the police siren sounded. Oops! We stopped, and after some discussion we were sent on our way, no harm done.
A couple from New Zealand riding a BMW R1200GS Rallye, rented in Scotland, through the Czech Republic? Here’s the background. We both love motorbike riding and it seemed sensible to plan a three-week trip that could bring us new scenery (Alps!), motorbike racing (Czech MotoGP!), and an opportunity, a century after the burials, to pay our respects in northern France at the various Commonwealth War Graves where both Nicki and I have relatives buried. The final convincer was that I was to celebrate a significant birthday along the way – a special trip for a special celebration.
It’s nearly impossible to comprehend the scale of death that took place until you spend time in the Somme. The tragedy is that thousands of young men were never going to return home, and the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) must be congratulated on its efforts to keep their graves immaculate. The saddest part for me was the realisation that there are so many of them.
There are 42,000 names on the Canadian memorial at Vimy Ridge and 72,000 names on the British and South African memorial at Thiepval
Ridge. The folly of war is never clearer and the two phrases most used ‘Lest We Forget’ and ‘Their Name Liveth For Evermore’ are never more apt.
A sombre couple of days, for sure, but although feeling a bit emotionally worn out we both were very glad that we went there.
The next couple of days were spent heading across France as we approached the Alps. On the way, we passed through the outskirts of Paris. Well, when I say outskirts, I really mean the outskirts of the outskirts, during rush hour. With temperatures in the low thirties, I couldn’t see a way to keep cool in the slowly moving multi-lane traffic jam.
Couldn’t see, that is, until we watched the local bikers whom I now admire as riders and lanesplitters of the highest order. Their technique is to treat the lanes as a never-ending slalom course. Their confidence and speed through the creeping cars was a joy to behold and although restricted by the width of our panniers and the need to bear in mind my pillion’s comfort, well… Tentatively at first, but quickly at ease with carving through the traffic, we soon realised that these motorists are highly aware of what’s happening around them, and hold no resentment to bikes passing by at triple their speed. They moved over to allow us through.
There’s an obvious loop to ride taking in three of the most picturesque Swiss passes and a clockwise tour of Grimsel, Susten, and Furka Passes filled our day. Atop the rougher, narrower Furka Pass we enjoyed the last of the day’s sunshine although thunderstorms had been forecast and seemed imminent. In the distance saw the hairpins of Grimsel where we’d begun our day. We were especially looking forward to the Stelvio Pass – the highest that we’d planned to get at 2778m and one of the classic rites of passage. It is in northern Italy so we spent another day heading in that direction via the remote-feeling Nufenen, the busy St Gotthard, the crowded
Oberalp and the lesser-known Julier Passes.
We chose to stay in Bormio, which is at the southern foot of the Stelvio.
The hairpins were tighter than the other passes, with all needing first gear. We reached the top and laid out before us was the classic view that has been photographed thousands of times. Nicki offered to remain at the summit, if I wanted a solo blast up that most famous section and I accepted without hesitation.
The Stelvio road was now busy and I think that on a weekend day all the stories about the hideousness of the traffic would be true. Pick your day and time and you’ll have the ultimate Stelvio experience and happily, that’s what we had. We spent two and a half hours from leaving Bormio to being on the far valley floor and it was an absolute highlight of the trip. Continuing through Austria, on one day we rested from the 39-deg C heat under some shady trees bordering the banks of the Danube, although to my disappointment it was neither blue nor was there any waltzing evident. Thus, we arrived in the Czech Republic to our earlier-mentioned encounter with the local law.
After Friday’s damp, Saturday was a scorcher. The beer tents were doing business from 7:30am and by midmorning they had constant queues. As he had during Friday’s practice, Marc Marquez topped all sessions of the MotoGP leader board, but at least half the spectators supported Valentino Rossi, who was roundly cheered whenever he appeared on the big screen TV or rode past our viewing spot. The sense of community among the spectators is palpable and no matter whom you backed, there was no resentment from those supporting another rider. Sunday dawned a bit drizzly and it was forecast to be intermittent all day. Worst hit was Moto2 as their morning warm-up and afternoon race were both affected. In the late morning, with all the race teams assembled on the circuit’s start line, a touching tribute and minute’s silence was held in memory of previous
previous multiple world champion Angel Nieto who had died the day before of injuries sustained in a quad bike accident.
The MotoGP race was a tactical win for Marc Marquez and despite a poor pitting/bike change decision from Valentino Rossi, who finished fourth, it was an exciting contest. The best part of being at the races is the atmosphere, which is never part of watching TV. The spectators were very appreciative of any bold moves and stood to cheer each rider on their slow down laps - a wonderful experience. Monday brought us to Prague and we spent the afternoon there walking around the old city. Our hotel was close by and had no parking for motorcycles. The desk clerk offered a perfect solution – if we liked, we
could park the bike in the hotel’s inner courtyard. I did like, so rode it through the connecting passage to overnight safekeeping.
We needed to be back in Scotland by the following Monday so we took mainly motorways across Germany (past Nurburgring!) and Belgium (past Spa-Francorchamps!). Back in the UK, we chose the scenic route north (past Silverstone!) through the Yorkshire Dales, the northern Pennines, and the Scottish borders. For a couple of Kiwis escaping from a southern winter, I can think of nothing finer than to ride a motorcycle through Europe and take on the thrills of the ‘other’ side of the road while experiencing many different cultures (we visited nine countries) and languages.
Wee details, mon
www.Rentamotorcycle.com
Based in Dalkeith at Motorrad Central, rentamotorcycle.com is a short bus or taxi ride from Edinburgh’s Waverley Railway Station and has a fleet of BMWs. All popular models are available, with the majority being the GS range.
Our R1200GS Rallye was the latest adventure model and presented like new. There’s a full electronic suite on board and I used this to set the bike to my taste. Economy is great – fully laden with panniers and a pillion (very comfortable, says Nicki) saw an average of 4.7 litres/100km on our 6000km trip. This was my third rental from rentamotorcycle.com – the team understands the meaning of customer service and is very quick to respond to any query a prospective customer might have. Bike rental is not cheap (the Rallye is $2150 per week), but it is very convenient, and if you’re on a limited schedule (and who isn’t?) then there’s no better way to go riding than to just turn up and set off.
At no extra cost, bikes come with as much luggage as you want (I chose panniers and a tank bag, declining the offered top box) and for most bikes a GPS can also be specified. I chose this, too. On the latest 1200 models, there is the ‘scroll and click’ wheel on the left handlebar that allows instant zooming, as well as other functions. All bikes come with insurance (various excess payments apply; the Rallye’s is $3200) and unlimited mileage. D
IN A LITTLE HILLTOP VILLAGE…
An expert gives us the drum on Europe
WORDS Ross Naylo R Ph O t OS eu R opea N moto R cycle adve N tu R es
Over THe yeArs I have operated many bike tours for Australians, mainly in Italy, France and Switzerland. These countries are absolute motorcycle heaven. The roads are fantastic,
See it for yourself
Ross Naylor has been operating motorcycle tours for Australians in Europe since 2004, and has been advising The Bear on his travels for years. He has some terrific tours coming up in June 2018. See www.europeanmotorcycleadventures. com or you can contact Ross at naylor.ross@gmail.com
the people are friendly, the scenery is brilliant and there is a good supply of high quality motorcycles available. Added to that mix are relatively cheap hotels available with garages or plenty of off street parking. There is plenty of free wifi to allow you to stay in contact with those at home without blowing the phone or internet budget. I started my tours in Tuscany in 2004 and it is still one of my favourite riding destinations. The hills of Tuscany are a great place to ride with unlimited quiet twisty roads connecting stunning hilltop villages, dating back hundreds of years. The road surfaces are
generally wonderful even though you encounter harmless cracks in the surfaces due to weather extremes. I especially love south west Tuscany which is quite sparsely populated, but with lots of friendly villages with cafes for a quiet café (coffee) and ristorantes (restaurants) in virtually every village catering for the local workers who eat out most days in their three hour break for lunch. This food is local, delicious and cheap. Lots of these villages are off the beaten, well known tourist tracks and are always friendly and fascinating. You will often fi nd you are the only non-locals there. That is the advantage of riding a motorcycle in Italy – you can really get away to enjoy the local culture without all the tourist trappings. The best time to ride in Tuscany is May/June or September to mid October. The standout tourist places are Florence, Siena, Greve, Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, Volterra, Lucca and Pisa, but there are heaps of small villages you have never heard of which are equally stunning, but with very few or no tourists. I also take my guests by ferry to the wonderful Tuscan island of Elba, which happens to have one of the best biking roads in Europe, about 70 metres above the azure Mediterranean. In Tuscany, we always base ourselves in a small hilltop village, so we don’t have any
traffi c issues. You will see a few deer in the Tuscan hills and once in Elba I saw the most magnifi cent mountain goats (the ones with the large unicorn-like horns across their backs) standing right in front of me on a quiet mountain road.
A fantastic biking location is the amazing Dolomites, in north eastern Italy. These mountains are steep monoliths rising abruptly from the beautiful valleys, so rugged that much of the Dolomites is not inhabited, because it is so diffi cult to get to the top. We usually ride to the Dolomites from Mandello de Lario on Lake Como, and take in the Moto Guzzi factory before we leave. We go north to St Moritz and then through a beautiful national park in Switzerland, before arriving at the famous Stelvio Pass, just over the Italian border. Most people do the Stelvio. It is a bit daunting at fi rst, but as long as you take it quietly, it is an amazing ride, one you will never forget. There are heaps of passes in the Dolomites to go over, some famous ones being Passo Rolle, Passo Pordoi and the Marmolada. These are absolute musts if you are going to do the Dolomites. But there are many others. One of my absolute favourites is the Passo Penne north of Bolzano. We have often encountered snow on this
pass, but the road is always clear and a good surface. You can ride for days and days in the Dolomites and never go on the same road. There are thousands of twisties, so many you just can’t believe people would build roads in places like this! It is a good idea to base yourself in one of the beautiful skiing villages like Canazei, Moena or Cavalese and do day rides from there. You don’t really want to weigh your bike down with luggage when such fantastic twisty roads are on offer. I can guarantee that your cornering prowess will improve enormously after riding the Dolomites for a week or so – you will negotiate literally thousands of corners, including more hairpins than you can ever imagine.
Another favourite riding location is the French, Italian and Swiss Alps. They span the French border from Nice on the Mediterranean northwards to Mont Blanc and into southern Switzerland. Here you can fi nd beautiful roads along amazing gorges, the highest road pass in Europe, near the Italian border, the awe inspiring Mont Blanc (the highest mountain in Europe, the amazing Matterhorn and wonderful pristine picture book villages and valleys of Switzerland. D
LONGTERMERS
DUCATI SCRAMBLER ICON CRASH TESTING
MY DUCATI SCRAMBLER
was the second one to hit the road in Australia, after a bike reserved for one of Ducati Australia’s brand ambassadors. Of course I don’t mean that it was the second one to hit the road as in, you know, hit the road. Terminate on the tarmac. Mash the macadam. Scrape the surface. And so on. No. I suspect that a few others did that before mine. But mine did it, when I miscalculated a move in traffic that I’ve done many thousands of times, on a stretch of road that I’ve ridden just about every weekday for thirty years.
It was a low speed crash. I bounced off the back of a four-wheel drive in traffic just as I was trying to change lanes while filtering, and hit the road indeed. Fortunately I didn’t damage the car in any significant way, see more on that below. But what about my bike, and me as we hit the kerb? This was a top test of the bike’s equipment and my clothing.
The most important items on the bike were the Oggy Knobbs which
it has had fitted almost since it was shiny and brand new. They had not been called on for protection before, but they did their job perfectly. The only damage to the Scrambler was a bent gear lever – easily bent back – and slightly twisted forks. The right-hand side Barkbuster hand protector had a small… well, almost a smudge on it where it had hit the car; fortunately, its shiny carbon surface had not scratched the paint, and the mark it made on
the car polished out. The other Barkbuster had some almost invisible scratches where it had encountered the tar. You could literally not tell that the bike had been in a crash except for the lever and those few nearly invisible marks in only two places. Well done, all. But what about the absentminded rider who had caused the crash?
Let’s start from the bottom. I was wearing my venerable pair of short Rossi 814 boots; I’ve had these since dinosaurs roamed the Earth and they have protected me in more than one encounter of the third kind. They did it again this time, and although the bike fell on my foot I sustained no damage whatsoever to ankle or foot. Au contraire, I protected the bike with the boots. They are a bit used-looking with quite a collection of marks, which means that they didn’t show any specific marks that I could see.
In the trouser department I was wearing Draggin Jeans Twista pants. These have become my everyday goto riding pants, although I do wear them without the protectors; that way they can easily pass as normal jeans. Like the boots, the jeans did their job
unobtrusively and well. There was no permanent mark on them, just a bit of dirt.
My jacket was an Rjays item. I think it was called a Hurricane, but I wouldn’t swear to it, and they don’t make them anymore. As you can probably work out, I’ve had this jacket for a while, and it has done sterling service – although this was the first time I’d crashed in it. My elbow slammed down onto the road pretty hard, and my back encountered the kerb but neither were sore afterwards. Top marks for the jacket’s protectors. It did show some scuff marks, but they were restricted to the jacket; there were none on me. Once washed, the jacket was fine. This is good because it has my favourite Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride patch on it.
The Klim Inversion Pro gloves are a relatively new addition to my outfit, but they have already proven themselves in Iceland and on several rides in Australia. They fit beautifully and do their job in a wide variety of climatic conditions. I wear these just about all the time now, and I could not be happier with them. They’re made of a variety of materials – whatever works best in that location – and I could not be happier with them. My hand got squashed a bit under the handlebar but I suffered no actual injury. Possibly the most important item was my Nolan N41 open face helmet. I know that a lot of people prefer full face stack hats, but around town I almost exclusively wear open face helmets. I have never been in a crash where a full face would have made any difference – in town. Things have been different in the country. In this case my head was snapped down onto the nature strip and the Nolan did its job unobtrusively and well. No headache, no scratches (only scuff marks) – and no need for a full face. Having said that, if you feel safer with the extra protection, don’t feel you should not wear a full face helmet. Horses for courses, and there are definitely crashes in which a full face will prevent major and possibly disfiguring injury. It’s your call. But that’s all pretty good, isn’t it? Everything I was using and wearing did its job, and I arrived at work a little late and completely unharmed. Wish that I could say that after some business meetings… PT
KAWASAKI Z650L FULLY RAD
Our Z650L has been kitted out with more goodies this month – this time we fitted three products from renowned Aussie company, Radguard. Of course the most obvious thing you’d be thinking is a radiator guard, and you’d be right. We chose the black guard which is quite inconspicuous. Priced at only $159 the guard comes with all that’s required to bolt it on. Fitment took about five minutes and now our radiator is 100% protected from any nasties that might like to
Mini Pump
» Select pressure, switch ON and the pump automatically switches OFF when the pressure is reached.
» Displays in PSI, BAR or KPA
» Pumps to 50 PSI
» Actual Pump size: 10.5 x 12.9 x 5.3cm
» Light weight and portable - weighs only 497g
The Kit includes the MotoPressor Mini Pump with Digital Pressure Gauge and all the power leads and connectors to run from your motorcycle battery or a mini jump starter, packed neatly into a sturdy carry case.
puncture its core. As we’ve mentioned over the years, Radguard is at the top of the radiator protection game and their guards can’t come recommended highly enough!
While the great people at Radguard were there they sent us two more of their great products – race stand spools from EVO1 and a set of their levers. Of the varied colours available we of course had to go with green, for our ‘green frame’! The spools retail for $26.95 and take all of thirty seconds to fi t, but save hours of pain when it comes time to lubing and adjusting the chain!
The EVO1 levers are both foldable, length and reach adjustable. Made from high quality billet aluminium, both the brake and clutch levers offer an excellent fit and feel, especially for the low $189 retail price. The levers have six reach settings, fold up if the bike falls over and if you have large hands, you can extend them so that your last 2 fingers don’t rub, making it more comfortable.
Available in eight anodised colours (of course we chose green) and for many models. For all three of these Radguard products, visit www. radguard.com.au call: 02 6658 0060 or email sales@radguard.com.au SW D
ROYAL HOTEL, BERRIGAN
In search of personality WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN
SO ANYWAY, I’D given up waiting for my replacement knee to give me that last few degrees of bend to comfortably ride
Super-Ten, so I replaced my low seat with the original higher one, inserted the under-seat riser, taped a brace of layers of closed-cell foam on top and then covered this with my lambs wool arse soother.
It just worked: I could bend to the pedal, work the gear shift and who really cared if I could now barely
touch the ground with both feet when stopped?
And headed down the Hume.
I was researching the history of the Temperance movement and a bloke in my target town was living in the old Temperance Hall and had lined up a couple of real old-timers for a chat. Looked promising.
Royal Hotel, Berrigan
Iz
good?
The Royal Hotel at Berrigan scored nicely into the four helmet level with its single riding pricing, good showers and bathroom facilities and the willingness to put bikes under cover.
You can get lunch Tuesday to Sunday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. On Mondays the Federal Hotel around the corner has meals.
There’s only fi ve rooms available, all doubles with the prices $45 a single and ten bucks more for your mate.
Very reasonable!
John’s has his own, er, personality: sardonic and dry and Beris? Well the B team’s bloody special too!
It’s a pub I’ll definitely go back to!
The knee held up, the blokes turned up and they had some great stories to share before heading home for their feeds and I, warned by the barman that the kitchen was about to shut, shuffled around to the dining room.
The blackboard offered (deep fried) chicken schnitzel with chips, (deep fried) chicken with chips and (deep fried) fish and chips, oh and lamb cutlets. I figured I’d go for the healthy option, but I should’ve known. Ten minutes later I’m looking at a pair of deep fried cutlets. Yep, and chips.
The last time I’d seen that much oil there was a dipstick involved but nothing to do but suck it up and watch the ABC news. Midway through the first story, the fella from the bar comes in on his break, plonks his schnitzy down on a table between the TV and me, wheels around to grab the remote and then flicks the channel. What?
Move on, nothing to be seen here! So next morning after a healthy fresh breakfast at the Merino Café, I head out for some backroads riding and to meet an Israeli bloke who lives in an old converted pub in Breadalbane for a bit I’m doing on pubs of the Lachlan River.
All very interesting but no grist for this mill so I head south to Gundaroo where I’m two hours early for the pub’s 3pm opening so I apricate on the west-facing deck and wait for it to envelope me, and wait for the sun to get a better angle for some photos. About twenty minutes before opening, and just as the sun is getting to the right position, some GN’s towing a house and pool pull up out front. Never anything other than helpful, I tell ‘em the pub won’t open for another two hours, so they clear out and let me get my images as the sound of door latches opening punctures the silence.
Now this is a decent pub!
But again, I’m on the prowl for a place with accommodation, a place with character and a place that’ll look after riders so I head out with another joint in mind but when I get there and go into the bar... ah never mind, you don’t really want to know.
So the knee held up for two days of riding but I had nothing for Stu and my loyal readers and the month was moving. On the ride home I started rolling through good pubs that I’d not covered and very soon one pushed its
memorable head into mine.
I was leaving Snake Valley in Victoria and I’d rung ahead to the Berrigan Royal to make sure there was a bed. That was all fi ne but there was also someone I was hoping to meet up with.
“Do you know the current boss of the RFS?” I asked Beris who’d taken my call.
Came the swift reply, “I better! I’m sleeping with him!”
I said I was sorry to interrupt and that I could ring back when they were fi nished.
“No no,” she laughed, “not right now, just when I get the chance.”
He was out on his farm working on fi xing some of the fl ood damage but she’d try to get him in for a chat in the evening.
A blue heeler barks and dances at a gate nearby as I pull up beside the pub, a gang of sulphur cresteds rasps the cooling air and a B-Double pulls away from the corner, headed south.
And then as I turn off the bike, the truck is well down the road, the cockatoos are gone and the heeler stands looking, just wanting a rub and a pat.
The sudden silence wraps me as I massage the dog’s ears over the gate.
Everything’s tranquil, still. You know that feeling that you get when your hands have been really cold but then you get to the campfire and the feeling comes back and it’s a warmth that has a special, unique character? Well that’s what the silence out here is like after a day of noise, different to just quiet.
Anyway I tell the dog I’ve got to go and head over to the pub.
Beris (call me ‘B’) is behind the bar, a few blokes in fluro work gear are
downing some amber and yarning. All look up, nod, say, “g’day” and keep doing what they’re doing.
B’s bloke is caught up with fence repairs out on his property and can’t make it but dropped some stuff in for me to look at.
Berrigan and its Royal Hotel played a crucial part in the formation in one of this country’s truly iconic and special organisations.
In 1900 the first branch of what would become the Rural Fire Service was formed in Berrigan and the Berrigan Gazette of November 30th 1900 reported that the formation meeting suggested that the old bell at the public school could be, ‘handed over to the town to be used as a fire alarm….and a suitable place to hang it…would be the archway over the back entrance of the Royal Hotel.”
One fella present that night was a Mr Corcoran who said he’d supply a 54 gallon beer cask, “on behalf of the Narandera Bewery” to be used on a water cart as the first fire engine.
“Mr Ritchie then moved, and Mr Little seconded, that all present form themselves into a volunteer bush-fire brigade, and the motion was carried unanimously”, continued the Gazette before finishing its report: “It was decided to erect the bell the next day on (the Royal Hotel’s) archway…and ask the police to take sharp proceedings against anyone giving false alarms.”
It was this ‘volunteer bush-fire brigade’ which became the model for rural fire services across the nation.
Unfortunately the archway is long gone, destroyed ironically in a fire in the 1920’s although the exact date
seems lost in the smoke of time.
John, B’s dad and current publican reckons the fire was in 1928 and the pub rebuilt in 1931. Ian Fuzzard, the local historian wrote that the pub was rebuilt in 1925.
Both agree that the first one was single storey and the second a double storey and both agree that the fire started in the adjoining hall which the visionary publican, Edward McGrady had constructed and turned into a theatre.
McGrady had installed the first electric generator in the town in 1919 and had allowed the council to tap in to power the street lights but this noble gesture throws a shadow on John’s claims that it was the candles in the theatre that started the inferno.
When I get back to base I put in a call to Marnie Steer at the Berrigan Historical Society and I get the help so often generously given by the amazing people from such organisations throughout the country. Turns out both are wrong.
The paper up in Cobram reported on Feb 24th 1927 that the previous Saturday, the 24th, fire had destroyed two ‘old landmarks of Berrigan, The Royal Picture Theatre…and the Royal Hotel….. Shortly after 8.30 o’clock whilst the Pictures were in progress, the film ignited in the biograph operating room… About an hour and a half after the fire broke out both theatre and hotel were a mass of smouldering ruins.”
Justice can move quickly in the bush because the Cobram Courier’s coverage continued, “Three arrests were made, and at the trial on Monday, one of the accused
FOR A COMPLETE RANGE OF TINTED & LARGER SCREENS
was sentenced to nine months’ imprisonment.”
The nitrate film which was used in the 1920’s was well known for catching fire. Its flammability led to special fire proof boxes being made to house both projector and projectionist. Even today many in the industry call it the, ‘bio box’. So anyway given that even the paper reported that the ‘film ignited’ the bloke who went down was probably justified in feeling a little stitched up.
He was very likely innocent but 30 years before this, the citizens of Berrigan, a tiny flyspeck in the Aussie bush, ignited something else, something which would forever change the entire continent.
Back in the 1890’s the push for federation began in earnest. In 1892 Edmund Barton who was to become the first Prime Minister of Australia, popped by the Murrumbidgee area pushing his Federation cause.
It was taken up and The Australasian Federation League was created, with branches in many small towns.
In 1893 it was the Berrigan group that suggested a Conference of all these branches and on July 31st delegates from 74 committees met in Corowa. It was this meeting, the brainchild of the citizens of Berrigan that was the crucial first spark in the organised push for the federation of the Australian States.
The meeting began with the election of a chairman whose first words were to congratulate Mr. Lapthorne, secretary of the League at Berrigan, for having originated the idea of the Conference.
The next day, the conference concluded with the secretary placing on record his belief that, “Mr. Lapthorne and the Berrigan Committee, as the prime movers and the instigators of the meeting, deserve great credit.”
Even in far off Queensland a state which even then viewed any sort of progress to be a malicious southern plot, the importance of the Berrigan move was acknowledged with the Rockhampton Morning Bulletin calling it an, “important step because it is the first taken by the people as distinct from the politicians.”
Maybe better reflecting the thoughts of the north, the North Queensland Register printed in Townsville, dismissed the entire conference:
“A FEDERATION Convention – any assemblage of the class of professionals known as politicians is now known as a convention – is now being held in Corowa….. (and it has) provided many needy men with a pleasant excursion and highclass refreshments at someone else’s expense, so there will be a least a hundred who will urge that the gathering has not been in vain.”
Seven years later the momentum begun by the men of Berrigan reached its conclusion. On Christmas Day 1900, Edmund Barton, related to Banjo Paterson’s mother, (a link represented in the poet’s middle name of ‘Barton’ and his nickname, Barty), named the first cabinet of the Federal Government, with himself as the inaugural Prime Minister.
I’m woken early by the sun streaming through the windows in the room’s door. There’s few things better than a pub with an upstairs ‘randa facing east. I make a brew and take it outside as the low sun cuts through the picket slats, feet up and feeling perfect.
Then down to catch up with John who’s in the cellar tapping kegs. These kegs are delivered weekly and are rolled down the same original unrepaired gidgee ramp that was part of the rebuild of 1930. Thousands of kegs have eaten out a furrow in the concrete base and now the old concrete stopping block stands pretty much unused.
I stroke the smooth wood and once again whisper, “C’mon, talk to me, give up your stories,” but the wood stays mute and resolute.
John and I say our goodbyes and I head out. My new stack of gidgee memories not weighing me down in the slightest! D
As the crowd at Lang Park are wont to scream: QUEENSLANDER!!!
And where could that confounded Bear be this month? In this case, the exact place doesn’t matter. Just tell us where he is in the most general way… if we give you any more detail it’ll be too easy.
HERE’S OUR WINNER!
“The mystery location in issue 56 is the Weldborough pub, but I expect that you have been deluged already with correct answers...” writes Sharon “Vespa Girl” Heritage from Hobart, where she organises the Hobart Motor Scooter
Club and runs Cosmic Breed Mod Gear. Congratulations, Sharon – you’ll never need to worry about loud noise at this pub, or any for that matter, with a set of NoNoise earplugs!!
Go for the money again
With a value of nearly $99, the jump starter is the most valuable prize we’ve offered, so here’s another chance to win one. Janice likes it, too.
“This little lithium jump starter is pocket-sized, light and packs a real punch and will easily tuck into a tank bag, top box or pannier,” she writes. “Comes with a recharging plug suitable for both BMW (merit) sockets and normal car type accessory sockets, a USB port and 1 into 4 5V/2.1A USB accessory cable that can plug in many different devices including Apple, Samsung, HTC, Nokia, Motorola, and Sony phones, I-pad, GPS etc. It also has an LED fl ashlight with 3 modes, illumination, strobe or SOS.
“Can this little jump starter really start a motorcycle? The answer is most defi nitely YES and it will do it over and over again. We tested this jump starter on a bike
SIGN OF THE TIMES?
Where is he this time? We had no idea just how difficult it would be to write anything at all about this month’s photo! Suffice it to say that he took this shot on the way into a car park.
Answers to contactus@ ausmotorcyclist.com.au.
with a dead fl at battery. We consistently got 15+ starts out of the jump starter and this is connecting the jump starter through a dead battery.
“This mini jump starter has short circuit protection, overcharge protection and discharge protection.”
So what are you waiting for? It could be yours, and it could get you out of a lot of trouble.
If the South Island offers the best riding in New Zealand, the West Coast offers the best in the South Island.
RUNZUD FROM THE INSIDE
EADER, FRIEND AND professional traveller (with his wife Kate) Peter Colwell was inspired by the inspiration provided by our recent South Island NZ maps. “There was so much in it that prompted ‘me too’ reactions,” he wrote, and being the prolific writer he is, he put the reactions down on paper.
NEW ZEALAND, aah, my favourite country. Now 43 trips there over 34 years. As my experience of the rest of the world has grown, New Zealand has remained firmly at the head of the list of ‘best places’. On a point’s basis, it is a clear leader, but sadly, the popular places like Queenstown are becoming less attractive with the influx of thousands of tourists.
The WANAKA PUZZLING WORLD complex was designed by a very good friend of ours, Sarah Scott, a Wanaka architect. Sarah’s partner has been one of our guides for many years, and in the off-season Al has worked for Beachs Motorcycle Adventures in Europe, now semi-retired.
FOX GLACIER. Most of our tours have stayed at Fox Glacier for years, versus Franz Josef. Fox has much more
of a friendly ‘small town’ personality than very commercial Franz. Although not obvious there are quite a few good motels there on the airport road, and I love the old heritage Hotel, no not the old wooden one. Although I have stayed there too a long time ago.
HAAST. For our first ten years or so, the Haast Pass road was hard dirt. The section alongside Lake Wanaka was loose gravel, with no guard rail. They
sealed it, possibly encouraged by the many rental cars that were ending up in the lake (true).
The road south from Haast takes you to the dead end of Jackson Bay. Mostly through forest and not highly rated. Many people go there for the fish and chips in the caravan at the village.
The middle of the South Island is just as spectacular as the West Coast.
There’s only one road/rail bridge left, but there are plenty of really narrow ones like this long bridge at Haast.
There is now only one ROAD/RAIL BRIDGE ON THE WEST COAST
There used to be two until a few years ago. Over the years we have had a number of people crash on this bridge? At least two requiring an ambulance for both bike and rider. Another (German) lost bike bits over the edge in to the river. I can only think that the riders focus on the rails, not the road, and thus go where they are focussing. If we warn people ahead, they say; “Oh, that was nothing”. If we don’t warn them, they say; “Holy Smoke, why didn’t you tell us about that bridge”...
MILFORD SOUND. The 120kms out there has to be one of the most enjoyable roads in the world. Yes, it was partially dirt also for my first few trips. When its dry (rare) its spectacular. When it’s wet (usually) it is spectacular by virtue of the thousands of waterfalls that line the road. The ride is not to be taken lightly. If the road becomes blocked by landslide (not uncommon) the village is no place to be caught. On one trip as we approached the tunnel from the low side, a bus was seriously on fire, an inferno, blocking the road. We waited unit the fire died down enough to creep past, and before the cavalry arrived. Otherwise we would have been spending a very uncomfortable night at Milford. I can take or leave the boat ride up the fiord. Spectacular as it is, it is overwhelming and impossible to grasp. Although our tours do the boat ride, privately I advise people to forget it. A helicopter ride over the Alps from Milford is about as awesome as it can get. The roof of the world, countless snowy peaks, land at the Homer Tunnel entrance.
TWIZEL is relatively non-descript. Its existence was initially to house the
Arrowtown is a tourist trap, but it’s still kind of sweet – and it’s on the way to the wonderful Crown Range Road.
many hydro workers who designed and built the canal complex that you cross in the area. Up until recently it was possible to ride alongside the area canals which was much better than the highway, but every time I have been there for the last few years they have been closed off. If the gates are open they are well worth doing.
TEKAPO, is a well-worn stop, but less well known is the American Observatory on the top of the hill just off the highway. There is now a cafe at the top which has views of vast area of the Mid-south Island.
CORONET PEAK, (Queenstown) is not mentioned in the list, but is right up there with Glenorchy. A very twisting road leaves the QueenstownArrowtown road, and climbs in awesome fashion to the ski-field, which is totally deserted in summer. Like the Milford road, it is the scene of many TV car commercials. The road
totally open. No trees. The famous Skippers road leaves off this road. It is narrow single lane dirt clinging to a cliff for many kms. Out of bounds to rental vehicles. At the end is probably the highest Bungy in the world, at 71 metres.
ARTHURS PASS, used to be much more of a challenge before the viaduct was built. Single lane section under a waterfall. Porters Pass on the Christchurch side is one of my favourite sweeping highways in New Zealand, fast and smooth. Yes, the weather is usually very different on each side of the Pass. I have been known to correctly forecast warm sun on the east side, even as we battled rain and cold on the west side.
ALEXANDRA, or at least the road to, and east of there, is definitely worth doing. Especially near Ophir, - Brass Monkey territory, - and the Middlemarch road from Ranfurly to Dunedin is a wonderful sweeping highway with little traffic. Stop at the
Gold, gold, gold… the Southern Alps peaks take on the colour of money, most appropriate considering the number of tourists they attract.
Kissing Gate cafe. One of our tour once strode in to this cafe and asked of the assembled custom, in a loud voice; “Is this where you pick up women?”
Most of the traffic goes directly out to the coast. The short George King detour near Dunedin has some surprises. Dunedin itself does nothing for me, but Larnach Castle on the peninsula has been our regular digs for about 30 years, and it always stirs the “wow” factor. Totally unique. D
or minor
Although our background is Ducati we will happily service any motorcycle brand!
AFTer THe grUeLLing
punishment I had inflicted upon my trusty little postie bike Mo over the last week on the Safari, I decided to stay put in Longreach and give us both a break. September in Outback Queensland is spectacular and Longreach was an oasis in a sea of drought-stricken landscape. There is much to do and see with a concentration of tourist attractions on this well-trodden Grey Nomad route. My week here started with the discovery of the best kept accommodation secret – the Longreach Hostel, where, for the same price as pitching a tent, I got a private room, hot shower and well-equipped kitchen. There are 27 rooms in the hostel and it would be the perfect hangout for groups of travelling bikers (www. longreachhostel.com.au).
Across the road is the Qantas Founders Museum housing incredible displays of the origins of the Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services. Little known fact: in 1919 a journey of exploration was undertaken from Longreach to Katherine in a Model T Ford to scout for suitable airstrips. What a feat of endurance (or stupidity)!
There are several aircraft on display including a Catalina which was immortalised in the movie Return of the Catalina about the group of intrepid aviators who restored and ferried the 60 year old plane half way round the world. Mo had visited the Catalina in Lake Boga, Victoria two years ago so the Director of QFM allowed us special privileges with their pride and joy.
The Jet Tour had us all crawling over the 747 jumbo which has been stripped of its inside panels to expose the electrics and hydraulics of the aircraft. Fascinating stuff even for a mechanically inept postie rider. The other famous attraction is, of course, the Stockman’s Hall of Fame. It houses extensive exhibits of Outback life but all a bit too neat and clean and sterile for my liking. There were tiny unreadable nameplates with great long descriptions lauding the lives and exploits of men with barely a mention
of women or families supporting them and pioneering this great country. The most striking feature of course is the Royal Flying Doctor Service aeroplane suspended from the ceiling.
One of the best tourist attractions is the Longreach School of Distance Education – or as it was known in the old days, School of the Air. The facility in Longreach is the central hub for the whole south west Queensland catchment and educates hundreds of outback children.
Nowadays the schools use digital technology and computers and the teachers and students can see each other and see the computerised lesson. It’s still a tough way to learn and relies heavily on the parents or nannies to supervise and eliminate distractions. Once or twice a term the children will travel into Longreach for “mini school” which gives them more tactile lessons and aids in their socialisation. There is a small dormitory on the school grounds and each grade attends for a week at a time.
Evening entertainment is provided by Lachie Cossor’s Outback Stockman's Show. He and his three young daughters put on a terrific performance of horsemanship and whip cracking with lots of humour and audience participation.
For a more sedate evening and a damn good outback feed, the Heartland Theatre presents a delightful show of music, poetry and bush ballads. Songwriters Mike and Denise Quilty, with Grant and Lee Millar, play a variety of instruments including banjo, ukulele, harmonica and tin whistle. Their awardwinning song 'This is the Year', was chosen as the theme for the Year of the
Outback. If you are passing through make sure you put this show on your not-to-be-missed list!
I really enjoyed my time in Longreach: it has that authentic outback air about it. It should also be noted that there is not one multinational fast food place in town; instead, there are plenty of good quality bakeries and small cafes catering adequately for the locals and tourists alike.
Longreach also has an excellent Honda dealer - Mo receiving a new air filter, the original one finally succumbing to the Muttaburra dust and giving up the ghost. Dave and his team from Horsepower Honda went above and beyond to keep Mo healthy and on the road.
Before our departure, I was interviewed on the local ABC radio about my “outsiders” perspective and even had a special audience with the Mayor. There is much to like about Longreach!
Back to the long straight desolate outback roads. The countryside was flat – dead flat – without a tree or even a blade of grass. The road became one lane of tar with wide dirt verges. When two cars pass one another, they each have one set of wheels in the dirt – but Mo was standing his ground and not going off the bitumen. Except for trucks. We know when we are beaten. Just on dusk I pulled up at the Jundah pub and paid $5 to camp on the only patch of greenery in western Queensland. The next day was an easy 100kms to Windorah – our jumping off point for the Birdsville Races and the last of the bitumen. Knowing how much I hate dirt roads and the lengths to which I will go to avoid them, I wondered if was suffering from a brain injury, contemplating a 700km round trip to see a horse race.
www.postienotes.com.au D
www.edelweissbike.com
TECHNICAL
ON THE ROAD
Ducati Multistrada 950
WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR
NOW THAT I AM what I am – Stuart reckons I’m a Contributing Editor (The title can imply a staff member with regular writing responsibility and some editorial duties) but that reads like too much work to me, so I reckon I’m Editor Emeritus or “a person retired from professional life but permitted to retain as an honorary title the rank of the last office held” as the Collins Dictionary has it. We have not settled this dispute; it will continue, I suspect, until I find him in a dark alley with a piece of two-by-four - in my hands. What I’m trying to tell you is that with my new job, I have a bit of time to indulge myself. I still sub* the magazine, but the rest of my time is fl exible, so I’m putting together a few trips that I’ve wanted to do for a long time. One of them will probably be a couple of weeks in the Dolomites. I’ve been there before, but one trip was rushed and the other was washed out, so I’m picking a good part of
the year and allowing plenty of time. All worked out.
The question that remains is what motorcycle I should ride. I don’t think I’m blowing too hard if I say that I am on exceptionally good terms with almost all of the motorcycle manufacturers, and several have gone out of their way in the past to deliver motorcycles to the places where I wanted to begin my travels.
In one case I tried to be obliging, and asked BMW for a bike pickup in Berlin. After all, that’s where they build them. They helpfully agreed, but when I went to collect the bike the bloke at the delivery centre said, “Ach ja, das ist gestern aus Muenchen angekommen.”
Fortunately I understand German, so it was clear that the bike had arrived the day before – from Munich. It turns out that all BMW test vehicles come from Munich. My planned ride was through the Alps, so it would have been a lot easier for them if I’d collected the bike there…
Anyway, a ride in the Dolomites calls for an Italian motorcycle, and I had seen and admired the new “little” Multistrada when we had it on test. A call to Ducati Australia yielded a bike to play with while my Scrambler was being serviced.
A day of playing ‘mountain rider’ around the unfortunately rather flat environs of Sydney produced the following conclusion: the Multistrada
950 is the best Multistrada I have ridden, and I have ridden many. The 19 inch front wheel makes this a pleasant animal indeed, and the combination of an 840mm not-sohigh seat and weight of 227 kilos wet (that’s with 20 litres in the tank, folks) produces a motorcycle that I am hanging out to play with in the many hairpins of the Dolomites. It is remarkably comfortable, and there are no unpleasant vibrations. Of course, I still have to get Ducati to give me one. But we’re like that, right?
The luggage with which ‘my’ 950 was supplied was pretty amazing; I reckon I could have had a bath in either of the aluminium expedition panniers, while simultaneously cooling a couple of dozen bottles of Spumante in the other one. Of course I would not have been riding while I did this because – I don’t bathe and ride!
I cannot tell you how much I am looking forward to this trip, both for the scenery and the bike. This is going to be serious fun. Read about it in due course right here.
*Subbing involves taking other people’s copy, which has often had many hours and much sweat expended on it, and altering it freely while pretending to be correcting its grammar and spelling; all the while laughing maniacally, shouting “Oh you think so, do you? Fool!” and drinking straight from a bottle of Jameson’s. To give you an idea of how important this job is, Boris does it when I’m away, except he drinks cheap bourbon. D
GRIZZLING
GUMMINT GRIZZLE
THE MOMENT IS obviously coming when the last few federal parliamentarians turn out to be dual citizens or all-out foreigners who have forgotten that they owe allegiance to the Aztec Empire or Barsoom. The last senator is likely to be Pauline Hanson (unless she turns out to be a Pom, or maybe a Neanderthal), with Tony Abbot as the final member of the house when they both admit that yes, they are indeed both from LalaLand and each hold its multi-coloured plastic passport. Just imagine – at the penultimate moment, Abbot would be Prime Minister, Leader of the Opposition, Speaker and much else, all rolled into one… and then, pop. What to do then as we descend (or perhaps rise) into the Marvel Universe? Not to worry. As usual, The Bear is ready with an answer as a smitten nation calls to him. I suggest we call in the most recent senior parliamentarian who actually departed the House on the Hill with his dignity intact, and make Brendan Nelson our temporary federal administrator or Brevet Prime Minister. He’s doing a terrific job at the War Memorial; I’m sure he’d be even better at the all-Oz job. After all, we appoint administrators to impossibly crazy or corrupt local councils, don’t we? What’s the difference, except for size? And here’s the coup-de-grace. Brendan is a motorcyclist. I’m sure his Hayabusa would make an excellent Official Australian Federal Vehicle, leading us all into a new, brighter future where the people who govern us are drawn from and responsible to the people they govern.
Sadly, we will have to do without satire until then. I mean, how can you satirise Barnaby Joyce as a Kiwi, Nick Xenophon as a Pom and whatshername, the Minister for Something, as a Scot… oh and wait, someone now turns out to be what, Ecuadorean?
What was that about the world not only being queerer than we suppose, but queerer than we can suppose? Ah, yes, it’s JBS Haldane again. He also said something truly fascinating about the Creator and beetles… look him up, do.
BUGGER OFF, BIKERS
You may recall my whinging about the notice that tells you to wind up your windows and recycle air before using the Epping Tunnel. I wasn’t going to take it any further, but I see the sign almost every day and I finally snapped and wrote to them, asking a simple question: as a motorcyclist, what am I supposed to do?
The answer is staggering in its arrogance. Here it is in its entirety.
“Thank you for your recent email. “I understand you are concerned about the air quality within the Lane Cove and Cross City Tunnel.
“The Lane Cove and Cross City Tunnel are required to operate in accordance with the requirements of an Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) licence. The air-quality within the tunnels has always been met, and for the vast majority of the time been well under the limits required by the EPA.
“Traffic control room operators stringently monitor the jet fans and exhaust fans within the tunnels and will continue to monitor the air quality to ensure we always meet the strict standards that have been imposed on their operation.
“We understand that a journey through the tunnels are [sic] different between the driver of a passenger vehicle and a motorcyclist and note that there a number of alternate routes that motorists can take to reach their destination that do not require the use of the Tunnels. We appreciate your feedback and emphasise the safety and wellbeing of our customers is our priority at all times.
I’m pleased to be ‘resolved’, Aaron. However, while I know that ‘they’ tell you what to write, do you think there might be a more polite way of saying “motorcyclists, just bugger off”?
WHITE SUPREMACY
Reports have come in that at the pub on Saturday night, a vicious fight broke
out between the supporters of Australia’s White Supremacy movement and the opposing People of Colour. Fortunately the pub long ago changed to plastic glasses, so glassings failed to cause significant damage. Nevertheless, angry slogans were exchanged and it was only when the hardcore White Supremacists were forced out of the side door into the alley, where they continued to shout “White is Right, and you know it”, that order returned inside the pub.
A representative of the People of Colour has been quoted saying, “This White business is just crazy. Bikes in other colours are just as fast.”
It is expected that the Red Men at the back of the bar, sporting various Italian logos on their t-shirts and shaved into their hair, are likely to challenge the multicolour concept at an early date.
NO, NO, SERIOUSLY NOW
I am getting my wish to ride Baja California before I die. That’s not the Baja off-road race, where I would see a little bit of Baja and then die, choking in the dust of all the riders passing me. No, I’m doing it at my own pace and in my own inimitable style – from one purveyor of tequila to the next. The place has intrigued me ever since I visited Tijuana with its burros painted with stripes to look like zebras (what WAS that about?) and thought – the rest of this peninsula can’t possibly be like this.
The good folks at MotoQuest (www. motoquest.com), who run a couple of Baja tours themselves, are lending me a bike and I can’t wait to fire it up. Somehow, I have to get through the next three months before I go!
Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming
SKIMPING AT THE BEACH…OUCH!
WORDS LESTER MORRIS
HAVE YOU EVER been to Coogee Beach, one of Sydney’s premier beachside suburbs? If you have you will probably have made a mental note that it has to be the hilliest suburb on the planet - this side of San Francisco, that is, if somewhat steeper in places than that American city. Not only are there hills everywhere you look, but they are also really, really steep indeed, particularly the main drag which drops nigh unto a vertical cliff-face in almost all directions as it
zooms down into the very bowels of Coogee’s CBD.
To the west lies the popular beach, which is just off the CBD, but all the small roads, laneways and streets which intersect with the main drag from the East are similarly steep in the extreme.
This is probably the reason why there is not one pushbike to be seen anywhere, for nobody this side of a serious competitor in the Tour de France could ever hope to be able to ride a bike anywhere in the suburb. Unless, of course, that person might habitually like to coast downhill at very high speed.
Were that the case, one wonders how that odd person would be able to climb back uphill again, because to walk (safely) up any of the very steep gradients which abound, one needs to be leaning forward at a measurable forty-five degrees, if only to avoid falling over backwards and then cartwheeling (or at least rolling) all the way down to the bottom of the hill again. And as for wheeling a pushbike uphill at the same time as climbing to the top again? Forget it!
As it happens, I was in Coogee for a full day in the middle of a stinking hot summer - not for a swim, I hastily add,
CLASSIC MORRIS
but to work, and to work hard at that. Thankfully, we were indoors for much of that day.
At the time, I noted that the area seemed to be awash with a veritable army of a substantial variety of motor scooters, large and small, most of them – if not all of them - ridden by semi-naked riders who displayed a bewildering variety of high-fashion swimwear along with several genders.
There were many men - either musclebound, wafer-thin or on the soft side - riding about the beachfront negotiating the tight roundabouts while wearing nothing but skimpy swimmers and no footwear, or at best thongs. These riders varied in colour from deep brown or light tan to the appearance of a boiled lobster. There was not one white man, or woman, to be seen anywhere; or none who were scooter mounted.
But it was clear they were all aware enough of the consequences of slipping off their respective mounts, having their various heads legally adorned with a variety of large, mostly fullface, helmets. Being almost starkers, but adorned with a large helmet might be OK in a minor bingle - or an unintentional slide followed by a graceful ‘Step-Off ‘at low speed, as these unhappy incidents were often termed in the Olden Days. But a rider thus (un)dressed would need to have landed either feet-first, or head-first and perpendicular, to spring upright on two feet again like a circus performer if that rider was to avoid the searing loss of a large area of quickly-shredded skin had even a minor bingle occurred.
However, there seemed to be little regard in Coogee for the many acres of skin which were exposed to the elements and the abrasive road surfaces should an unfortunate tumble occur or if a rider was to slide sideways over the road surface, particularly if the rider was headed downhill at the time!
Any rider thus unadorned who may have had the misfortune to have slipped off at the top of any of the steep hills which abound would quite likely have slid, rolled and/or cart-wheeled all the way to the bottom and ended up looking like a well-skinned side of beef. That unfortunate rider might have
weighed more than a kilo less by that time, having left behind that amount of bark when any part of the rider’s anatomy touched the abrasive road surface on that long and painful journey. To add more insult to more injury, the rider’s scooter might well have arrived at precisely the same spot shortly thereafter and at some velocity, possibly leaving the legacy of several black tyre marks over most of the newly-removed skin.
Sun and/or wind burn are bad enough on exposed skin, but to peel off a couple of kilos of that essential, if too-easily assailed material –burnt or not – has nothing going for it at all, let me assure you of that unarguable fact!
absolutely fantastic as they rode
There were also many girls who looked absolutely fantastic as they rode the smaller scooters about, but who were also wearing as little as possible; super-skimpy, two-piece bikinis were the norm, although there were one or two girls who wore enticing one-piece cozzies, thus possibly allowing for a little more protection should the worst come to pass. They often displayed no footwear, but were again wearing helmets; mostly open face types, of course! It looked a very strange sight indeed, for only the heads of the various riders enjoyed a measure of protection, although I did notice that at least two or three of the more bosomy female riders should have been wearing three helmets, only one of which might need to be of the full-face variety.
particularly in the case of some of the more pneumatic females - for a bit of a pose, and I suppose they could see no good reason why they should be wearing anything but their swim-wear, but it was still to me a toothclenching sight.
A step-off is a step-off is a step-off, and there is sometimes no control at all as to where and when - or what - may happen: it’s paranoid, I know, but it hardly needs repeating, and repeating, and repeating again… but slipping off a motorcycle at any time is not an unknown occurrence: if this occurs, it is more often than not accompanied by an injury to one’s pride and little else.
OK, so it was a steaming hot, midsummer’s day as we filmed the Woolies TV commercial at the very top of the steepest of steep hills at the beachside suburb, and riding scooters in that far too-hilly suburb certainly made perfect sense, but to ride any distance at all as unclad as this lot seemed to me to be a not very good idea.
Clearly, these people were local residents, whom I could see popping down from home to the beach for a good splash about, or perhaps –
But there is no joy to be had in having to have one’s bedclothes hosed off one’s body every morning (which I hear from brother Andy is the easiest, quickest and most pain-free way to do this), for any neatly-skinned areas of one’s body allows a variety of bodily fluids and numerous serums to be emitted, which results in sheets being firmly glued thereto. And yes, I do know a little about that: thankfully not much, I am pleased to say, and not in the recent past, but I certainly do know a little about painful interludes of that type.
Naturally, it’s too much to expect these surf-side dwellers to wear a set of most unfashionable old Belstaff ‘greasies’ when riding a few hundred metres to the beachfront – that is assuming they had ever heard of that old-fashioned, first-class foul weather gear, which I doubt – or even some of the more fashionable, more modern protective clothing, particularly in the heat of an Oz summer. There is probably a huge market in this country for diaphanous, ultra-lightweight, fashionable motorcycle gear which is ‘breathable’ and easy to wear in the heat of our summer, whether riding around a busy beachside suburb or on a high-speed Interstate blast. The material should also be able to offer a high degree of gravel-rash protection should it become necessary. It could be that a material such as this does not exist, of course, but if it ever made its appearance…?
My brother Andy, who tells it like it is without fear or favour, has mentioned to many an ill-clad novice motorcyclist who happens to stray in his direction that ‘I’ve slid down the road on my well-protected arse further than you
have ridden your new bike, mate.’ Andy secured his motorcycle licence in 1954, just under three years after I secured mine, and has ridden very many motorcycle for most of that time, certainly very much further than he has ever driven the family Toyota Camry. It is thus hard to argue with him about motorcycle safety gear, for hot or cold, wet or dry, he wore his Belstaff ‘greasies’ any and every time he ever rode a motorcycle anywhere. Even for very short distances to local stores and the like.
Hey, a thought just crossed my mind: what if there had been a secluded nudist beach close by at Coogee? What then?
The mind fairly boggles at the thought of a bare bum being gingerly deposited upon a sun-heated, red-hot scooter (or any other) seat, but it didn’t appear as though there was a secret beach for the un-adorned in the immediate vicinity, for there were no naked riders anywhere to be seen flashing (Ha! Ha!) about: nearly starkers, every one of them, as I have related, but not entirely so. I would have been happy to
follow one or two scooter-mounted, bikini-clad females just to check out if there was such a secluded beach nearby – if I could have - but as usual with filming one does not leave the location for any reason, even though it often takes forever to change camera angles, buggerising about while pulling focus and/or attending to the numerous alterations to essential lighting and sound.
I was the only actor in the 30-second, nationally-televised TV Woolies commercial, but as usual it took all day to get the filmed material ‘into the can’, which allowed me plenty of time to stroll about for a stretch and a look-see, and to note the status quo for the numerous two-wheeled travellers of many persuasions. I must say I was not about to jump into anyone’s path to admonish then about the safety-gear which they really ought to have been wearing, for it’s a fair bet that, had I done so, I would have been swiftly told where to go and what was certain to happen to me when I arrived there. Whether I was wearing safety gear or not…
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WHATSAYYOU
WELOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity!
HEAR AND NOW!
THANKS TO THE wonderful people at Rocky Creek Designs this month’s letter winner gets a set of the NoNoise Motorsport earplugs valued at $35. To give you an idea how good they are, here’s the blurb… Why do I need NoNoise Hearing Protectors?
Wind noise on a motorbike produces noise levels up to
WHERE ARE THEY?
Hi Stuart
After reading the last edition of your magazine I decided to buy the continental road attack 3 as I was due for a new rear tyre on my work bike (tdm 900) that I use most days of the week doing mobile service. On my enquiry with my local (bike biz Granville) who can get and fit every tyre available, you can imagine my disappointment when the guy said they will be available soon, but soon meant anything from a week to 3 months, as I could not risk running my tdm on a very worn tyre I had to purchase a tyre that is available. My little gripe is how do you get to try these things if they are not available to the public at the time of print I was hoping to use the extra rubber fitted to the center of the continental to test, I will have to wait
105dB. Permanent hearing damage can occur from 85dB up, so it is essential always to use hearing protection. Why are these Hearing Protectors different?
Developed over 20 years by leading experts, NoNoise MOTORSPORT Hearing Protectors are [claimed to be] superior to traditional foam, wax or silicone earplugs. Precisiontuned, patented ceramic filters ensure maximum protection from dangerous levels of engine, wind and road noise. Unique filtration allows conversation, sirens and horns to remain clearly audible, with no muffled effect. NoNoise earplugs have a build-in ceramic sound filter, which forces the sound waves to pass through something called a Venturi pipe. The Venturi effect attenuates sounds only when the sound gets louder. Comfortable and suitable for all ages - ideal for
for another 14,000km.
While on the subject of your formal knowledge I just attended my daughter’s first track session at Eastern Creek that I bought for her as we were both novices I relied on your first time advise in one of your magazines and everything you said was spot on, I had all the right gear with me and my daughter was amazed at how well prepared I was for my first time pit crew and I owe this to you. I told her not to turn up with much petrol in the tank as I had plenty and we only need a couple of liters per session well at the end of the day she filled up her tank with the remainder telling me I will get home faster without the extra weight. Boy they learn fast.
Once again Stewart thank you and I will see you at the bike show
Ian Gregory Regents Park NSW
bikers and other motorsport enthusiasts. To grab a pair, jump onto www.rockycreekdesigns.com.au
The letter we liked best this month came from...
STOP THE FOG
G’day Bear, Fogging glasses have been a issue for me for some time. I have been doing most of my early morning riding with my visor cracked open a little. Read about FogStop in Issue 55. Googled it. Found it on scopesafteyglassesonline.com.au. Order one. Package came a few days later. Put the Pin Lock in my near new Shoei helmet and treated my glasses with Fog Stop. Joyous experience. At last I can see. Thanks for the tip
Peter Hopper BA #10
Hey, Tips-R-Us, Trooper – The Bear
Hi Ian, yes, I was told by the distributor the Conti was held up around one month. They do have stock now, though. Not that it helps you. Excellent! I’m glad you guys had a great time and I helped make things run a little smoother for you. Enjoy! Cheers, Stuart.]
WESTERN WORRIES
I’m noticing a trend here. Maneuvers are east coast only affairs. Or. Am I the only trooper living in the western states?
Trooper 23 Gerard
No, Trooper, there are three of you. Next time I’m in the West I’ll schedule special Manoeuvres – The Bear
IN THE MIDDLE
Esteemed Editor Australian Motorcyclist,
The geographical centre of NSW is near Tottenham; the centre of Australia is near Erldunda NT.
Could you ask Trooper Whelan where are the centres of the other States?
Many thanks, David (surname indecipherable)
Brisbane
No need to ask Colin, David. I can handle this. Interestingly, there are at least five possible ways of selecting the centres. However Geoscience Australia, the Federal body responsible for answering questions like this, gives just a single answer for the States and Territories:
Australian Capital Territory: the former site of the Honeysuckle Creek Tracking station, approximately 35km south-south-west of Canberra.
Location: 35° 29’ 24” South, 149° 00’ 05” East
New South Wales: 33km north-north-west of Tottenham.
Location: 32° 09’ 48” South, 147° 01’ 00” East
Northern Territory: Approximately 91km north-north-west of Tennant Creek.
Queensland: 17km north-west of Muttaburra.
Location: 22° 29’ 13” South, 144° 25’ 54” East
South Australia: Near the Churchill Smith bore, some distance south-west of Lake Eyre.
Location: 30° 03’ 30” South, 135° 45’ 48” East
Tasmania: On the western shore of Little Pine Lagoon on the Marlborough Highway between Bronte and Miena.
Location: 42° 01’ 17” South, 146° 35’ 36” East
Victoria: On the steps of the Mandurang Uniting Church, 10km south-south-east of Bendigo.
Location: 36° 51’ 15” South, 144° 16’ 52” East
Western Australia: South-east of Carnegie Homestead on the Gunbarrel Highway.
Location: 25° 19’ 41” South, 122° 17’ 54” East
Just for fun, here’s what the five different ways of calculating the centre of Australia give us.
Centre of gravity method: 23° 07’ 00” South, 132° 08’ 00” East
Furthest point from the coastline: 23° 02’ 00” South, 132° 10’ 00” East
Median point: 24° 15’ 00” South, 133° 25’ 00” East
Geocentric Datum of Australia (matches GPS data): 25° 56’ 49.3” South, 133° 12’ 34.7” East.
Cheers - The Bear
RE WEEKLY MONTHLY CATCHUP
Hey Stuart, Doesn’t the Bear (in the photo with the Catchup email that goes out to subscribers) always look fairly pleased Bear
They see me rollin’, they hatin’… Wouldn’t you look pleased with yourself if you were looking this good? – The Bear (Photo: Vincent Tesorero)
with himself. Cheers and good luck in the race.
Martin
I think he’d just raided a honey pot! LOL! Thanks, mate. Cheers, Stuart
TRAIN-ING JOURNEY
With regards to the Ghan being a forbidden-to-ride place (Australian Motorcyclist October 2017), maybe that applies only to the new Ghan. It’s still okay if you travel the old Ghan. And you can even get off at Curdimurka.
Robert Crick
Stirling ACT
We meant travelling on the train, Robert… not riding across the disused rails - The Bear
THE NICEST READER
Boys,
What ever happened to Honda’s ‘You meet the nicest people...’ of the 1960s? Now, in the motorcycle press (including, but not limited to, AMM) we are assailed by ‘aggressive styling’, ‘aggressively styled tread pattern’, ‘thuggish-looking’, terms I would normally expect to be applied to footbrawl, not motorcycling. I mean, how can a motorcycle be thuggish-looking? How can a tyre tread be aggressively styled? A tread pattern is just that; indentations in a rubber ring. It’s time for motorcycle
journalists to check their dictionary/thesaurus and come up with new adjectives that don’t imply all, rather than just some, motorcyclists are a bunch of pugnacious morons. Or perhaps they could ask Boris for some alternatives, at least they would be humorous.
Of course, in the aforementioned 1960s, there was also “Get something hot, red and throbbing between your thighs’ but that was truly clever and witty.
Jeff Cole Alice Springs
Jeff, the nicest people of the ‘60s have turned into curmudgeons who write to the press with complaints that things are no longer the way they were in the ‘60s… as for the bikes, they’re now ridden by the nicest possible posties. And while ‘aggressive’ can mean ‘ready to thump someone’, it can also mean ‘marked by combative readiness; marked by obtrusive energy and selfassertiveness; (and) marked by driving forceful energy or initiative’ which I think can be applied to both styling and tyre patterns. But we will check our dictionaries and I’ll forward your letter to Boris for a comment! – The Bear
And quick as a flash, Boris replied: “I addressed Honda’s signature imprecation some years ago. I swore I would never buy a Honda since I was profoundly disinterested in meeting nice people. I wanted to meet sluts, knife-fighters and pimps. But I think the issue here is trying to deal with the society’s general emasculation of men, who are no longer allowed to be manly, and so they need to enjoy their manhood vicariously via a thuggish tread-pattern. There’s really no point asking me. It will only end in tears. HOG is still crying because I called them uncool on Facebook.” D
Is that like aluminium siding, Robert?
The makings of an insurance job… but Robert will be waiting for a while before the train comes.
R
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BEARFACED
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST
THAT’S HOW THE letters always start, responding to some comment or complaint you’ve made to a government department, a parliamentarian or a large company. The words might not always be exactly those, but the sentiment is.
I have a truly sad bit of news for you. Surprising as this may sound, they don’t mean what they say. Usually they don’t give a bugger. This becomes obvious when you read further and realise that what you have in your hand is what’s called a boilerplate response. At its extreme it is a paragraph or set of paragraphs which is the same in just about every response they send out, with just your name and the problem you have mentioned inserted in the template. How does it work? An old joke tells of someone in the US who sends a complaint about cockroaches on a train to the president of the railroad. He receives a reply apologising profusely; insisting that nobody else has ever mentioned the problem; assuring the writer that the president will give this his urgent attention by personally checking the train carriage in question and by summarily dismissing the staff responsible for the roaches being there. His original note had unintentionally been attached to the back of the response. Scribbled on it over the president’s initials was “Send this guy the cockroach letter.” I get a fair bit of this. In my attempts to “speak truth to power” I send quite a few letters to the various ‘authorities’,
mainly about their lack of interest in motorcycling and motorcyclists. Every now and then you get a hit; writing to the then-RTA to ask why custom rego plates were not available for motorcycles in NSW, I did get an answer among all the boilerplate about how they took their role in road safety seriously (?). Sadly the answer was not much use to me; it said that custom plates were only for vehicles. I asked what motorcycles were if they weren’t vehicles (and wondered if this meant that I would no longer have to pay ego and insurance) but got a boilerplate return that didn’t even mention the question, never mind an answer. My favourite is a telephone conversation with one of the apparatchiks in NSW Police public relations. This was years ago when I was a student journo, and I was writing about criticism leveled at the cops for their perceived brutality at anti-Vietnam demonstrations. I wasn’t getting anywhere with the flack on the other end of the phone, so I asked whether the officers were perhaps a little more… forceful because of what they thought of the demonstrators? “The job of the police is not to think,” was the response.
I would have quite a collection of boilerplate letters if I’d kept them. As it was I generally shredded them or threw them away –quite enthusiastically. There is one lot I’ve kept. Over several years, they trace my attempt to keep my Honda XL250 registered in NSW while I was overseas with the bike. You might be surprised that this was
(and possibly still is) possible, even without a green slip. All you had to do was pay the registration and 3rd Party insurance fees.
I wrote to the RTA, thanking them for allowing me to insure the bike despite being outside Australia. Among a lot of self-congratulatory boilerplate bumf, the response was that I was not insured outside Australia. The policy only covered me at home. I wrote back to say that they surely didn’t expect me to pay for useless insurance. They did expect exactly that, they replied, although it was phrased in more self-congratulatory filler prose. I wrote to say that I didn’t think that was fair. They wrote to intimate that fairness didn’t enter into it – by simply sending me the same letter as before. I demanded that they register the bike with no further argument; they had banked my cheque for the rego. Eventually I got a real letter written by a real person who conceded that they might, at their discretion, refund the 3rd Party payment if, at the end of the year, I could prove that the bike had been outside Australia for the entire term of the insurance.
Communication in those days was by snail mail, and the rego year was over. I theoretically would have been due for another payment – except that reregistering a bike overseas could only be done for one year. I couldn’t have registered the bike again even if I’d wanted to.
I didn’t, and let the rego lapse. But don’t take this as a suggestion that you shouldn’t write to the authorities. Even if they send you crap in response, they do note your letters. Especially your local member of parliament, whom you can reach in two ways: a direct letter, or a letter to your local paper. All parliamentarians read the local papers in their electorates; they know that their voters read them, too. Keep chipping away at the boilerplate. We can eventually get something done. D
ADVERTISERS LISTING
BORIS
THE DEFINITION OF TOUGH
WORDS BORIS
MIHAILOVIC
I’M WRITING THIS pretty much straight after the Australian round of the MotoGP. I may have calmed down by the time you read it, but it’s also likely I’ll still be buzzing a little bit. It was, as they say in the classics, a race for the ages – after all, at one stage, two men, both with recently broken and still-healing legs full of cruel hardware, were dicing ruthlessly for the lead.
MotoGP racers are not physically big men. They are not hung with muscle, or etched with tattoos – though some of them do carry a bit of ink – and to pass them in the street you would not really look at them twice unless you were a fan of the sport. So I guess they’re not your archetypal hard men as far as their physical appearance goes.
But I’m thinking they have to be some of the toughest men who’ve ever walked the earth.
I’ve crashed a few times in my riding career. I’ve even pitched myself off a racetrack a few times. So I am no stranger to pain. And when it comes, I need to lie down for a few weeks, then spend a few more gimping around while my injuries heal. My worst accident a few years back saw me on the sidelines for about six weeks. A double compound fracture of my left arm and a broken C2 vertebra (happily stable) will do that to you. I did that to myself at about 20km/h.
My fastest accident was probably at Sydney Motorsport Park a few years back during my race debut, and the cost of that was a few broken ribs and more bruising than a UFC dressing room. I had to lie on the couch for almost two weeks.
The MotoGP blokes do not lie on any couches after they crash. The current world champion, Marc Marquez, hit a wall a few years back during practice at more than 300km/h. I believe it was the fastest ever motorsport accident. It sent his race-suit telemetry into meltdown because it was unable to record the amount of G-force he copped. Marc put a Bandaid on his chin, changed his suit, and came fifth in the race the next day.
Jorge Lorenzo broke his collarbone, flew off to have surgery, and was back to make Qualifying the following day with a bunch of plates and screws holding his arm to his body.
And it’s impossible to forget Mick Doohan, his leg broken so badly it had to be sewn to his other leg for weeks so it wouldn’t die of blood deprivation, crutching his way to his two-stroke widow maker GP bike, and racing like there was nothing wrong with him at all.
Both Valentino Rossi and Jack Miller were nursing very recently broken legs at the Phillip Island this year. Rossi was about three weeks into his recovery and Jack about two into his. Did that slow them down? Did it shit. Jack led for a few laps, as did Rossi, who eventually
took a very hard-fought second place. His leathers were smeared with molten rubber from Marquez and Zarco riding their motorcycles into him during the race.
I cannot comprehend this. It lies outside my normal cognitive parameters. Sure, these guys get the best medical treatment, hyperbaric chambers, painkilling injections (though not in all cases), and great physio – after all, they really are racing for cattle stations –but come on. Broken bones, bruised organs, and battered muscles still hurt like a thousand bastards and lying on the couch being served ice cream by a considerate wife or girlfriend until you’re feeling better is how normal people operate.
But of course these blokes are not normal people. They are motorcycle racers. And motorcycle racers, even the ones who aren’t ever going to be good enough, rich enough, or well-connected enough to get a run in MotoGP, are tough. Physically as well as mentally –and it would be impossible to overstate the mental toughness they possess.
So how much tougher then are the elite gladiators who race at the very highest level of the sport? The men who ride million-dollar prototypes and reach speeds of 350-plus km/h and lean angles of 60 degrees? The men who are doing this while similar men are also doing the same thing scant millimetres away from them, and scanter millimetres away from all sorts of disaster?
I don’t know how much tougher, but an educated guess would say by several orders of magnitude.
I don’t understand it. I never will. I can’t. It lies beyond the ken of normal people, which is why someone coined the term “Aliens” for the likes of Rossi, Marquez, Stoner, Pedrosa and Lorenzo.
It’s a very apt term. Because for all intents and purposes, these men are indeed aliens beside the rest of us. They are the living incarnation of tough. And I am impossibly privileged to watch men such as these battle as they do. We all are. D
AMM
DECEMBER 2017
2018 H-Ds / MT-10 s P / s TREET s CRAMBLER / MON s TER 797 / s UMMER GEAR / POTM: BERRIGAN / CONTI RA3 I ss UE #10, VOL 5
